On Tue, 10 Aug 2004, Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote:
shite
Sorry folks...
Kostas
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2598758
I like the idea... but only wished that the bike stood out more. As it
stands, all of the lines in the photo converge to the upper right corner,
and so they all lead my eye exactly there... and there's nothing there but
a tall white building
Rob,
I forgot the Kookabura (sp?) photo.. Definitely a shot that I wish ~I~ had
taken indead of you :o) Great catch.
Just tested this with an empty SP. Film counter
does advance when the camera is empty. The little
window just below the advance lever doesn't move,
but the shot number on the top plate does change.
John Francis wrote:
Hi, I just got a used Super Program. With the back
closed and no film, I took
Hi Richard,
The film counter on the Super Program/A should count up even without film
loaded.
The camera is too old to have the No film/No count safety feature.
In my experience the most common problem is a tiny spring that comes loose
inside.
The next most common is the reset tab on the film
I'd change the on/off switch as well. My chrome MX
has a plastic bit in the middle of that switch that can
loosen and fall off. The black MX didn't have that bit.
Peter J. Alling wrote:
You have to do a little more than just replace the top and bottom plates
but yes if you have the
tools, (pin
Markus,
Since you asked nicely I will try to comply.
Give me a bit though, I have to see what I have digitally of her, without me
in the shot :-)
I may have a snapshot somewhere on this computer.
I will try to get it on the web if this computer continues to behave nicely.
Cesar
Panama City,
Markus,
The title piqued my interest -- comments below.
-Original Message-
From: Markus Maurer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 9:56 AM
Hi Pentax lovers
snip
1 my cabin (all crew member cabins have the same dimensions, the Officer's
cabins are, of course,
On 2 Aug 2004 at 21:21, graywolf wrote:
Seems like we have not had a what lens do you carry thread in quite
awhile.
So...
Coming in late as usual - too much time on the road...
My 35mm lens kit always contains:
FA Limited 31/1.8 -- excellent and fast
FA Limited 77/1.8 --
Markus,
There is a Minolta Girl - at least in my world. A photographer friend of
mine who used to shoot Minoltas until they met the floor unceremoniously not
too long ago.
No PDMLer has ever met her though. I will try to look for a tonight - no
promises though.
Still wading through the
Robb,
of the two, the bike holds more interest for me, looks like an advertisement for a way
of life.
The garden shot would benefit from a less harsh light and maybe some cropping (there's
too much foreground for me).
Kenneth Waller
-Original Message-
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL
2 more quick things:
I have one of these I need to take apart this weekend to glue the
illuminator window back in, perhaps I can take some pics of the spring.
Alan Chan (I think it's Alan) may have some other thoughts, sounds like he's
worked on more Pentax's than I have.
Don
-Original
You'll love the Canon A80. I have an A60 and can't believe how good it is.
Vic
Sorry to see you go Frank but I know you'll be back. Nothing like a break to
get you refreshed. Good luck buddy.
Vic
I think the question was 50 or 100mm. Go go the 100 if you can afford it the
working distance for the same results makes all the difference in the world...
Vic
It will not give the same results as the 50mm, it is a 100mm after all
now isnt it? Once you get near 1:1 the 100mm has same AOV of a 200mm
at infinity which is very narrow to say the least compared to a normal
lens. Bottom line is they are very different lenses so the 100mm is
not better than a
Yes, I was amazed to learn how close Mt. St. Helens is to Portland, and to
see it just to the North. If I had stayed a couple of more days I would
have driven out there. Believe there is a visitor's center. How lucky
everyone was that it blew up to the North, rather than to the South. Flying
Just to keep the thread alive. I'm planning a little vacation to Quebec City
and am in the process of trying to decide what to take along. Likely subjects,
Architecture, street scenes (in honour of Frank), scenics and some nature
stuff, whales and sea life (planning to do a lot of touring the
Give me a 100 any day. Just my opinion
Vic
I had a similar problem, I just found out when I close my refrigerator
door, the light goes out. Any way to fix this?
Norm
Richard Chu wrote:
Hi, I just got a used Super Program. With the back
closed and no film, I took a few shots and wind the
camera. The film counter did not advance. As a
At 1:1 magnification, the F/FA100/f2.8 as well as the new DFA100/f2.8
all are near 75mm lenses. You can see that from the working distance
which, at 1:1, is roughly four times the focal length. For the
FA/F100/f2.8, at 1:1, the working distance is 310 millimters, thus the
focal length at 1:1
We've covered this before but for closeup work I prefer the dedicated
classic macro designs over the pseudo-zoom types which are really
general
purpose lenses. I use normal (infintity optimized) lenses for landscape
and dedicated macros for closeup not a single pseudo-zoom type lens that
does
-Original Message-
From: Arnold Stark [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 9:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 50 or 100 mm
At 1:1 magnification, the F/FA100/f2.8 as well as the new DFA100/f2.8
all are near 75mm lenses. You can see that from the working
Why? 50mm and 100mm do vastly different things.
If you need the AOV of a 50mm,
the 100mm is absolutely useless.
If you need the working distance
of the 100mm, the 50mm is absolutely useless.
Neither one is better than the other for everything
anymore than a regular non-macro 100mm lens is
On 10 Aug 2004 at 3:32, Keith Whaley wrote:
What's the bike, Rob? What year?
Ducati 996 (featured in The Matrix Reloaded) 2001 I think?
http://www.bikez.com/bike/index.php?bike=4174
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT) +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
FREE is psuedo-zoom. It is pretty obvious if the focal length
varies and it does. Pentax has made both dedicated and pseudo-
zoom macros. I believe the switch occurred when they went from
F4 designs to F2.8 designs in the early 80's. Of course any lens
that does Macro is a real Macro lens but when
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: 50 or 100 mm
Why? 50mm and 100mm do vastly different things.
If you need the AOV of a 50mm,
the 100mm is absolutely useless.
If you need the working distance
of the 100mm, the 50mm is absolutely useless.
Neither one is
- Original Message -
From: Norm Baugher
Subject: Re: Super Program counter
I had a similar problem, I just found out when I close my
refrigerator
door, the light goes out. Any way to fix this?
We just bought a new fridge.
William Robb
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: 50 or 100 mm
FREE is psuedo-zoom. It is pretty obvious if the focal length
varies and it does. Pentax has made both dedicated and pseudo-
zoom macros. I believe the switch occurred when they went from
F4 designs to F2.8
On 10 Aug 2004 at 0:20, John Francis wrote:
Real easy - just put film in the camera.
(Seriously - that's all you need to do. The frame
counter only advances when there's film in the camera).
This is not the case John, I've experienced the same problem on at least two
SuperA/Super Program
On 10 Aug 2004 at 7:12, Don Sanderson wrote:
2 more quick things:
I have one of these I need to take apart this weekend to glue the
illuminator window back in, perhaps I can take some pics of the spring.
Alan Chan (I think it's Alan) may have some other thoughts, sounds like he's
worked on
On 10 Aug 2004 at 7:43, William Robb wrote:
Not withstanding, the macro lenses with the fixed rear element design
are incredibly good lenses.
I recall reading in the literature of the day when I bought the
A100mm f/2.8 macro that the design allowed for superior lens
performance throughout
I never said there was anything wrong with the design,
it's just that AT THE SPECIFIC magnification the older
designs were designed for, the pseudo-zooms are going
to hard time matching the classic fixed designs, the
extra elements needed for faster speed and wider focus
range become a burden
We are talking optical not mechanical design here arent we?
What does the mount have to do with it. You certainly don't
think that the mount has anything to do with my comments do
you?
-Original Message-
From: Rob Studdert [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 9:52 AM
On 10 Aug 2004 at 0:00, Kenneth Waller wrote:
Robb,
of the two, the bike holds more interest for me, looks like an advertisement for
a way of life. The garden shot would benefit from a less harsh light and maybe
some cropping (there's too much foreground for me).
Hi Ken,
Thanks for the
On 10 Aug 2004 at 9:54, John C. O'Connell wrote:
I never said there was anything wrong with the design,
it's just that AT THE SPECIFIC magnification the older
designs were designed for, the pseudo-zooms are going
to hard time matching the classic fixed designs, the
extra elements needed for
On 10 Aug 2004 at 9:56, J. C. O'Connell wrote:
We are talking optical not mechanical design here arent we?
What does the mount have to do with it. You certainly don't
think that the mount has anything to do with my comments do
you?
John I was yanking yer chain. Lighten up.
Rob Studdert
Yeah, Chinon actually made the later, series-3 'Made in China' K1000s
with the plastic body, until they were discontinued in '97.
That's actually pretty interesting. Too bad I can't find any kind of
manufacturer website for them to look at all their models and see
which exact model is made on
Very nice, Bruce. I rotated it 1.5 degrees CCW, looks like 1.25 would have
been about right. You going to put this in your office along with your many
other excellent images? I particularly like your shots of GFM that I saw
here.
http://www.solutns.com/jpeg/bkd_0280_stdb.jpg
Thanks for
That is a feature, Norm. Especially if you have some chicken in the fridge.
Everybody knows how chickens get all excited in the light and quiet right down
in the dark. By turning off the light when you close the door it keeps any
chicken in there from disturbing the other leftovers.
--
Norm
Hi Rob,
since I am a macro fan, I have indeed a lot of macros. I plan
for long a test of them but don't find the time. The oldest one
I own is the SMC-M 4/100mm macro. Is this old enough?
Best regards, Hans.
--- Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 10 Aug 2004 at 9:54, John C. O'Connell
J. C. O'Connell:
I think the question was 50 or 100mm. Go go the 100 if you can afford it
the working distance for the same results makes all the difference in
the world... Vic
It will not give the same results as the 50mm, it is a 100mm after all
now isnt it? Once you get near 1:1 the 100mm has
I'd check but I think your's will exhibit the same behavior.
William Robb wrote:
- Original Message -
From: Norm Baugher
Subject: Re: Super Program counter
I had a similar problem, I just found out when I close my
refrigerator
door, the light goes out. Any way to fix this?
William Robb:
Through the magic of thread drift, we have lost track of one of the
original poster's parameters, which was maximum magnification on a
bellows.
For this, the 50 will be the better choice, since it will give more
magnification than the 100 at any given extension.
You mean if I both
Very nice...
thanks, keith
Rob Studdert wrote:
On 10 Aug 2004 at 3:32, Keith Whaley wrote:
What's the bike, Rob? What year?
Ducati 996 (featured in The Matrix Reloaded) 2001 I think?
http://www.bikez.com/bike/index.php?bike=4174
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)
Prop a match book between the door and fridge - that should keep the light on.
Kenneth Waller
-Original Message-
From: Norm Baugher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Super Program counter
I had a similar problem, I just found out when I close my refrigerator
door, the light goes out. Any
If you are going to use a bellows, the 50 is more useable. If you want a
straight macro to use without bellows, the 100 mm gives you more distance which is
very valuable for all sorts of reasons, including room to use reflectors,
flashes etc. With a 50mm you're in so close that the shadow from
TTL exposure measuring with open aperture
On Monday 09 August 2004 23:55, Doug Franklin wrote:
FJW On Mon, 9 Aug 2004 16:16:52 +0200, Martin Trautmann wrote:
FJW
FJW TTL Offenblendenmessung
FJW
FJW Bedeutet das Matrix Metering?
FJW
FJW TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
FJW
FJW
FJW
FJW
--
Frits
I never could understand this 1:1, 3:1, 4:1 talk. Unless you are doing
scientific work or have a real good reason to know your magnification, who cares.
It's all about the image you're seeing through the viewfinder. If you're close
enough to get the image you want, it's all you need I think
the magnification spec is so you can compare the closeup
capabilities of lenses of different makes and models and focal
lengths directly. The magnification scale on the lenses also allows you
to calculate
the exact exposure compensation needed with manual exposure settings.
those are both real
Tom C wrote:
Just a reminder that the Perseid Meteor shower peaks this week on the
11th/12th. There will be little moon interference...so if you've got
clear skies...
At the moment, it is persisting down as if water was going out of
fashion. Looks like it will be doing so for at least another
Thanks for the lovely post card, Derby Chang.
For those who allr3eady forgot: Sometime ago someone on this list - perhaps
Derby - said:
I don't know what to photograph - any ideas, please?
I suggested that he could buy some flowers, photograph them and then give
the flowers to someone close to
On 10 Aug 2004 at 0:20, John Francis wrote:
Real easy - just put film in the camera.
(Seriously - that's all you need to do. The frame
counter only advances when there's film in the camera).
This is not the case John, I've experienced the same problem on at least two
Troublemaker. In this case, however, I happen to agree.
I like it as is.
Cheers,
Cotty
___/\__
|| (O) | People, Places, Pastiche
||=|www.macads.co.uk/snaps
_
Seen on the Pentax group on dpreview.
Joe
-
I thought I'd do the maths. Well, I borrowed the company cost model for estimating
silicon chip cost, and got it to do the math.
Some things to understand - this isn't REAL: the cost model is not up to date with all
the latest
My apologies for being pre-Friday.
#1 SMC Pentax-M 75-150
A good performer. There are better, but not likely many
at this price.
VGC, in a hard case. $60
#2 quartz photoflood with barn doors.
GC, Pics on request. $40
#3 SMC Pentax 30/2.8
Excellent condition. $210
Why? Because the A35/2
Very, very interesting!
I had little feel for most of this.
Yes, I know most of the processes, and terminology, but how many per wafer
and the yield therefrom well, I just had no idea.
thanks for forwarding it...
keith whaley
jtainter wrote:
Seen on the Pentax group on dpreview.
Joe
- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert
Subject: Re: 50 or 100 mm
On 10 Aug 2004 at 7:43, William Robb wrote:
Not withstanding, the macro lenses with the fixed rear element
design
are incredibly good lenses.
I recall reading in the literature of the day when I bought the
- Original Message -
From: John C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: 50 or 100 mm
I never said there was anything wrong with the design,
it's just that AT THE SPECIFIC magnification the older
designs were designed for, the pseudo-zooms are going
to hard time matching the classic fixed
- Original Message -
From: Peter J. Alling
Subject: Re: Super Program counter
I'd check but I think your's will exhibit the same behavior.
I was hoping the new one would work better.
WW
- Original Message -
From: Norm Baugher
Subject: Re: Super Program counter
Thanks Kenneth, I'll give it a try.
Something I discovered: If you unscrew the bulb a couple of turns
then it doesn't come on at all, and then I don't have to be curious
about whether it shuts off.
Of course,
Hmmm... I went to your folder, looked at the thumbnails, and the first
two pics I clicked were ABBAlanche and Helly. Then, after looking again
at the thumbs, I clicked on Seated @ 1/4.
So now you know what attracts a caveman.
cheers !
In my experience the most common problem is a tiny spring that comes loose
inside.
Or the film counter spring simply broke.
The hardest part is removing the rubber cap on the advance lever without
damaging it, it's glued on.This cap has to come off to remove the top
cover.
Actually you don't need
Regarding the pseudo-zoom Macros,
William Robb wrote ( edited ) :
there is absolutely nothing wrong with
the lens design.
I am sorry but that couldn't be more wrong. There is something
wrong with every lens ever made, none of them are perfect.
The optical designers have to make lots of
I have one of these I need to take apart this weekend to glue the
illuminator window back in, perhaps I can take some pics of the spring.
Could it be this one?
http://www3.telus.net/wlachan/spring.jpg
Alan Chan (I think it's Alan) may have some other thoughts, sounds like
he's
worked on more
Thus spake William Robb:
Something I discovered: If you unscrew the bulb a couple of turns
then it doesn't come on at all, and then I don't have to be curious
about whether it shuts off.
I can sell you a special bulb that works this way even if it is
screwed all the way into the socket. I've
Well I'll be darned.
I just tried that on the Super A and the plastic came right off!
This is the FIRST one that somebody hadn't put so much glue on that you
could do that.
Every other one I've had the rubber was VERY firmly glued to the brass nut!
Thanks Alan!
Don
-Original Message-
I do to Bill .I 'm still good for 1/60 anyway.lol
Dave
For those curious souls, I am in contact with the
man himself from
time to time.
Life is still good, the store goes on.
He is still shooting with the 6x7, and sneers at all things digital.
Oh yes,
Quite possible those were serviced because the rubber cap should be glued
onto the plastic lever first, let dried, then assembled to the camera. It's
not your fault though!!g
I have found many used Pentax cameras were ruined simply because some
technicans used their own way to fix them. The
I don't think it's comparing apples to apples, though.
If you attempt to work out the cost per wafer (multiply
the given unit cost by the number of working units) you
end up with a figure around $2745 for the three larger
sizes, where the wafer fab is the most expensive step.
On the three
Actually I'm thinking of the much smaller one that works the little
anti-reverse pawl associated with the reset lever.
The reset lever is de-actuated by the tab on the film door.
I'll get one apart and see if I can get a pic.
I believe the one you pictured is used to reset the counter to 0.
Here
Actually I'm thinking of the much smaller one that works the little
anti-reverse pawl associated with the reset lever.
The reset lever is de-actuated by the tab on the film door.
I'll get one apart and see if I can get a pic.
I believe the one you pictured is used to reset the counter to 0.
Here
Of course. It is a common design on many Pentax cameras.
Alan Chan
http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
Actually I'm thinking of the much smaller one that works the little
anti-reverse pawl associated with the reset lever.
The reset lever is de-actuated by the tab on the film door.
I'll get one apart and
The SMC Pentax Lenses and Other Stuff database (SPLOSdb) has updated prices
for many (not all) lenses, as of 2004-06-30. A few more lenses have been
added in the Big4 and otherLenses categories. Lens rarity and availability
data have not been updated (I just don't have the time). The site pages
Heck, that's nothing. I hand hold my 600mm on Bulb!
Kenneth Waller
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Aaron Reynolds
I do to Bill .I 'm still good for 1/60 anyway.lol
Dave
For those curious souls, I am in contact with the
man himself from
I don't take many pictures of flowers (mainly as they never seem to turn
out well, but am still playing with this whole nature photography thing),
but these aren't real, so they don't count :)
http://cowfish.org.uk/paw/flowers.html
comments always welcome
billy
--
The great thing about
Would be nice if the lower right corner could be avoid, and a little colour
adjustment in Photoshop. :-)
Alan Chan
http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
I don't take many pictures of flowers (mainly as they never seem to turn
out well, but am still playing with this whole nature photography thing),
Thanks Jim!
I've made a lot of use of the database lately.
Appreciate your efforts a lot.
Don
-Original Message-
From: Jim Colwell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 4:39 PM
To: pdml
Subject: SPLOSdb price updates to 2004-06-30
The SMC Pentax Lenses and
Hi Frits,
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:17:03 +0200, Frits Wthrich wrote:
TTL exposure measuring with open aperture
FJW TTL Offenblendenmessung
So, approximately:
messung == (exposure) metering
blenden == aperture
offen == open
?
TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004, Alan Chan wrote:
Would be nice if the lower right corner could be avoid, and a little colour
adjustment in Photoshop. :-)
I tried cropping out the yellow in the middle top and the white in the
bottom corner, but i preferred this to the thinner image. I;ve had a bit
more of
On 10/8/04, J. C. O'Connell, discombobulated, offered:
If you need the AOV of a 50mm,
the 100mm is absolutely useless.
If you need the working distance
of the 100mm, the 50mm is absolutely useless.
This is why God invented zooms :-)
Cheers,
Cotty
___/\__
|| (O) | People,
On 10/8/04, Cesar Matamoros II, discombobulated, offered:
Starting to scan some very old photo prints and negatives, I have
rediscovered one shoot of Minolta Girl.
I think it was Frank and Ceasar(who really knows the original one) and Cotty
as well mentioning this mysterious women from time to
Yes, that looks correct to me.
On Tuesday 10 August 2004 23:56, Doug Franklin wrote:
FJW Hi Frits,
FJW
FJW On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 18:17:03 +0200, Frits Wthrich wrote:
FJW
FJW TTL exposure measuring with open aperture
FJW
FJW FJW TTL Offenblendenmessung
FJW
FJW So, approximately:
FJW
FJW
On 10/8/04, Tom C, discombobulated, offered:
Just a reminder that the Perseid Meteor shower peaks this week on the
11th/12th. There will be little moon interference...so if you've got clear
skies...
Tom C.
Depends on how much I've had to drink. Not unknown for a bare butt or two
to hang out
Proof that even God has bad days.
John
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 23:18:29 +0100, Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On 10/8/04, J. C. O'Connell, discombobulated, offered:
If you need the AOV of a 50mm,
the 100mm is absolutely useless.
If you need the working distance
of the 100mm, the 50mm is absolutely
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: LX vs K2dmd vs Super Program (update)
Well, when I actually TESTED my 50s I found that the M 50/2 is a
really
good performer, plus it's cheap and very small. None of the above
can
be said for A 50/1.2 from what I've heard
- Original Message -
From: Anders Hultman
Subject: Re: 50 or 100 mm
William Robb:
Through the magic of thread drift, we have lost track of one of
the
original poster's parameters, which was maximum magnification on a
bellows.
For this, the 50 will be the better choice, since it
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: 50 or 100 mm
Regarding the pseudo-zoom Macros,
William Robb wrote ( edited ) :
there is absolutely nothing wrong with
the lens design.
I am sorry but that couldn't be more wrong. There is something
wrong with every
On 10 Aug 2004 at 16:35, Anders Hultman wrote:
If you look at some macro shots I've done with a regular 50 mm lens
and a bellows, could you say in which way these pictures would be
different if I had used either of the two new lenses instead?
Practically there will be little difference (and
Or simply buy one of those Canon/Minolta super macro lenses, just don't look
at the price tag.
Alan Chan
http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
If you want bigger than 1;1 you should be reversing the lens anyway.
William Robb
_
MSN® Calendar
Let Rob to educate you with his SL125/2.5 then. g
Alan Chan
http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
Allow me to rephrase that then.
Based on my single A100mm f/2.8 lens sample, I have found nothing to
complain about regarding the lens design in question.
It is as sharp a lens as I have seen (I have seen a
One anecdote does not science make. Just because
you are very satisfied with a given lens doesn't mean
there isnt something better out there that will
perform better given toughter test conditions like much
higher resolution films/sensors and/or more flare prone shooting
conditons. I suggest you
On 10 Aug 2004 at 18:00, William Robb wrote:
The A 50mm f/1.2 is pretty soft wide open (though much better than
the Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 that I replaced with the Pentax lens), and is
only ok until about f/8, at which point it is very good indeed.
I tested my Screw 55/1.8, A50/1.7, A50/1.4 and
On 10 Aug 2004 at 20:26, J. C. O'Connell wrote:
One anecdote does not science make. Just because
you are very satisfied with a given lens doesn't mean
there isnt something better out there that will
perform better given toughter test conditions like much
higher resolution films/sensors
I don't have many samples of each, but I have almost a dozen 50mm
lenses in various places around the house, so I have been able to
test (as much as I test anything) more than one sample of most
emulations.
I did some (limited, of course) testing of a number of samples a few
years back:
I'm guessing the only difference is the newer
styling and A setting on the A lens.
There's a coating difference, it would seem, too.
Fred
No, it was behind a house near a swap meet. I had seen it there for quite a
few years. I walked over and took the photo one day when I was down in that
area.. I'll try to darken it a bit.
John Power
Biltmore Photo
-Original Message-
From: Markus Maurer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
Bruce,
I'll comment. The tree is a strong element on the right of the photo. I like the
mood and bit of blue on the left. I'd wish for more details in the tree bark. It
looks a bit washed out to me.
Regards, Bob S.
Bruce wrote:
After dropping my daughter off at a music camp up in the
Not intending to single anyone out...
;-)
Fred
I sent this e-mail this morning but it didn't show on the list.
John Power
-Original Message-
From: John Power [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 7:18 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: PESO: Old Man Tree
Very nice, Bruce. I rotated it 1.5 degrees CCW, looks
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