Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway
Shoot, you'd be running 8's... One of my employees was running high 8's with a tubocharged '93 Mustang stroker small block and didn't have $40k tied-up in it including the trailer. He ran 10's with a supercharger in it and drove it to work. The only inconvenience, really, was the roll cage. Two-Track - Original Message - From: "James Strunk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 4:12 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway > well,if I put the money into my car equal to the cost of the porsche,,I'd be > running 9's to 10's also! > - Original Message - > From: "Larry Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 1:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway > > > >I have two time slips with the Porsche runs > > > > 1.62, 4.585, 7.105, 99.274, .000 (mine 13.111), 10.979, 127 mph > > 1,66, 4.604, 7.034, 102.398, 000 (11.834), 10.817, 130 mph > > > > > > > > Keith Anderson wrote: > > > >> Not running right and still runs 10's?!?!?! > >> > >> 800 hp? That's doable with mods but NOT from the factory. I just read > >> an article in the Dec. issue of Road & Track about the 650 hp Ruf > >> Porsche Rt 12 (Porsche 911 Turbo) which ran an 11 flat at 133.9 mph. > >> Given that, I would have to assume the Porsche you ran against had at > >> least 650 hp and if it was running bad like the owner said, 800 probably > >> isn't a stretch. Put a big enough turbo or turbos on any engine and you > >> can get 800 hp. 4 banger Mitsubishi AWD cars running 10's seems to be a > >> common occurance nowadays. > >> > >> The article: > >> > >> http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=12&article_id=2973 > >> > >> Keith > >> > >>> From: Larry Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >>> To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >>> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Mile Times at Sacramento Raceway > >>> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:40:39 -0800 > >> > >> > >>> BFG says 20 psi is the Minimum - I will try that on the next trip. One > >>> of the amazing cars I raced a couple of time was a newish turbo Porsche. > >>> Not sure what the model was but the car was running the 10s. Wow! The > >>> owner said the car was supposed to make 800 hp (BS?) but wasn't running > >>> right. Is anyone familar with those cars? > >>> > >>> Larry > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > > Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/197 - Release Date: 12/9/2005 > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement: do it yourself or shop?
I've wondered the same thing - how do you change out a universal joint? - Original Message - From: "Brian Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 9:49 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement: do it yourself or shop? > Simple job, Jim. All you need is vise and a C clamp. > > Brian > > P.S. Cool '66 !! > > > >From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >To: Chevelle Group > >Subject: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement: do it yourself or shop? > >Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 18:44:45 -0800 (PST) > > > >While I'm pulling out my original rear, I thought new > >U-joints would probably be a good move as well. Is > >this something I could do on my own with the right > >variety of tools? Or, is this one of those jobs best > >left to the "experts". > > > >My neighbor and I got the drums off tonight, and > >disconnected the E-brake cables.. We're looking to > >drop the old 3.08 open out tomorrow night. Can't > >wait!! > > > >Regards, > > > >Jim > >'66 Malibu > >http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm > > > >__ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > >http://mail.yahoo.com > > > > _ > On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to > get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's
I agree. I routinely order from Jeg's and have it via UPS the next morning. It's amazing. And they always fix my mistakes...and refund the shipping for them. It's a first rate company. - Original Message - From: "Wayne Kline" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 9:46 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's > I have use them both, Too many times according to my Wife. > > As with any sizable Co. with 1000's of transaction a day, Mistakes WILL > happen. > Both Co's have solved any of my issues 1,000,000%, have that be defective > part ,order by mistake, wrong item shipped or just don't want or need it . > > Was the truck loaded and gone? Was it a lazy sales Rep ? Or was he being > honest and they did in fact pack it and ship that days orders that night ? > > I have received shipments on occasion from both @ regular shipping, the > next Day.. I am in PA ! > > YMMV > > One positive thing, I always have plenty of boxes to ship things to our > Grand children in AZ :) > > > > > > >From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >To: "Chevelle List" > >Subject: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's > >Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 05:38:15 -0500 > > > >Now I know why I prefer Summit over Jeg's... > > > >A couple of times in the past when I placed internet orders from Summit, > >the > >next morning I realized I forgot something. I'd call Summit, talk to the > >customer service rep and ask if I can add the forgotten items. "No > >problem" > >the rep would say, "what part numbers do you need to add?" Sure enough my > >original order would arrive in one box along with a second box containing > >the forgotten items with no extra "handling" charge. > > > >Last night I ordered some stuff from Jeg's and sure enough I woke up this > >morning and damn it if I didn't forget something. I called Jeg's a few > >minutes ago and the rep says "Sorry, the box is already loaded on the truck > >for shipping." I know it's my own fault for forgetting, but at least > >Summit > >is willing to do something! > > > >Herb Lumpp > >http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > > > > > > _ > FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! > http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security
Killing is easy to talk about, hard to do, harder yet to live with. Times have changed for the better, IMHO. - Original Message - From: "Keith Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 10:10 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security > Agreed. Just wound them. :) > > It wasn't long ago when you were justified in shooting someone trying to > steal your horse. And horse thieves were hanged. Interesting how times > have changed isn't it? > > Keith > > >From: "Larry Shouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security > >Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 19:38:59 -0500 > >I'm thinking I'll have to at least hide a switch to kill the ignition. > > > >Agreed. I don't think I would kill someone over a car. > > > >Larry > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert
Yup. Could not agree more. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 7:17 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert In a message dated 12/5/05 7:07:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Shill bidder... I wouldn't doubt that some of those 'questions/comments' are kinda fishy as well. -Kurt EhrhardtACES 1280, TC Gold 26366 SuperSport, 66 MalibuEnfield, CT
Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert
Shill bidder... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 2:02 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert HOLY CRAP SOMEONE BID ON IT!!!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion Auburn vs. Eaton
I don't know if anyone is aware of this but Eaton just bought Tractech, the makers of the Detroit Locker and other diff. components. Happened a few months ago... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 3:08 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion Auburn vs. Eaton Eaton units are better than the Auburns but that is my opinion only. Besies, Eaton units are rebuildalble, Auburns are not. Will a beefed up 8.2" rear be as strong as a stock 12 bolt, doubtful. I;ve destroyed 10 bolt rears behind mildly built small blocks, I haven't blown up the 12 bolt in my 70 yet that rests behind a 500 HP 454. Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convertible
I like that "buy now or wait until they're 2mil." I love Chevelles but anybody that pays that kind of money for a car that can be cloned so easily is brain dead. Gee whiz, they fake Picasso charcoal sketches that sell for a tenth of that. Why do people just believe these guys? For pete's sake, I could fake the photographs in a day or two with Photoshop and an old HotRod magazine. Build sheets? You can buy them on the internet. Cowl tags? Give me a break - there's a guy in every city who makes them. In today's muscle car market, there is not one single piece of ID on a 1970 Chevelle that is not faked and readily available. They fake passports - and that can land you in jail for a very, very long stretch. Why not fake build sheets - it's simple, cheap, won't get you a roommate named Bubba, and can make you just as much money. Anytime the money gets serious, the serious criminals put their single malt scotch down and get to work. They've been faking Chevelle documentation since the late 1990's when the best ones were only worth $25k. Twotrack... 1970 SS owner with VIN docs from GM Canada...and a faked cowl tag because the exterior color was changed from raptor-poop brown to resale red and the interior from saddle to white. It cost $150 several years ago - they're probably cheaper now.
[Chevelle-list] Ratios
I've been watching this go back and forth for a few days now. If the choice is between 3.73 and 4.10, why not use 3.92? Craig E. "..I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do..." - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 7:14 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion While 3:73 may not be perfect, I’ll bet if you took a poll, 3:73 would win. I did the same a year ago and went with the 3:73. From: Ryan Langstraat [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 9:29 PMTo: Chevelle Chat ForumSubject: [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion I know that gear ratio has been a topic a lot lately but I am going to purchase my new set this week. I noticed that some people are running 3:73's and was wondering how they liked them as an all around gear. I noticed that Clint had mentioned that 3:73's were a marginal gear for the highway. I guess what I was wondering was would a numerically lower gear set be a better route for a cruizer? I would still like a little snap at times but I also dont want to be running 4500rpm down the highway. I know there are formulas out there but was wanting personal opinions from people that have cruizers. Let me know what you think. Glad I bought a bunch of parts this week becuase it is snowing right now and I can hide in the garage! Ryan Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source"© for Automotive Professionals
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately
That's a good idea, John. I'm going to change mine right now. - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 9:45 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately First, your primary email address should never be used on a list like this one, or posted publicly anywhere. Most people have the ability to create and check more than one email account. Create a separate address for public lists so that you can delete it and create a new one if spam becomes a problem. Most of these lists have a searchable archive, which is a great way to get email addresses. The address I use for this list is only for list mail. This is also a good way to tell whether or not subscribing to a list is causing you to get junk mail. I recently changed my personal address because I was getting 50 to 100 junk mails a day. My new address has never been posted anywhere and so far no junk mail.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately
I've got the same problem. I think the spammers figured out how to beat the ISPs spam screening software. I noticed they are all sending pictures of text instead of text and that sort of thing. So, instead of getting Viagra posts I get stupid cartoons of characters USING Viagra. Just what I want my kids to see when they're looking over my shoulder watching me "work". C - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 8:17 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately Is it just me or has there been an increase in spam lately? I was content with getting 5-10 each day, now its more like 50-60 since Thanksgiving. Cant blame any ISP as Im getting them through my chevelle.com account as well as lcisp.com and chevellestuff.com. Maybe I need to get more into the holiday spirit and share some with my Chevelle friends, LOL. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD now available! ACES #1709/TC Gold #92
Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System-Dyno Run
Title: Message CFM and ACFM (Actual CFM) are the same. SCFM is "Standard" CFM and assumes a specific barometric pressure, humidity, temp, etc. It is arrived at using a math formula applied to conditions at the time of the test. Since "air density" is greater in colder air, a greater amount of oxygen will be pumped into the motor at 60 degrees than at 90. The difference is considerable enough that the takeoff weight of aircraft is adjusted for temperature, etc. Two-Track - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:36 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System-Dyno Run Clint, Everything you said about my engine is correct except I did go with hydraulic roller lifters and roller rockers. My motor man told me to set redline at 6800rpm. I had my dyno run today, and you are right. It did make peak power at 6000rpm. 442hp @ 6000rpm 467fp @ 4250rpm Just a point of interest, airflow was 720.3 scfm @ 6250rpm, which is as high as they went. What does the "s" in front of the cfm stand for? Videos - www.fuglybrothers.com/videos/dyno-setup.wmv www.fuglybrothers.com/videos/dyno-run.wmv Larry - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:49 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System You guys have to remember that Larry's car isn't running a hyd lifter,oval port big block but a solid lifter,forged piston,four bolt main L78. Those things will easily rev to 7,000rpm and make their peak power well over 6,000rpm. It can handle a higher flow exhaust. I suggested 2.5" tailpipes because the exhaust velocity is reduced enough that the extra expense and more noise of 3" tailpipes isn't necessary on a BBC less than 427ci. The smaller tailpipes will help the low-end torque curve a noticeable amount and reduce the drone. Very few streetable 400ci small blocks will have cylinder heads that can flow like L78 BBC's. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System
Just my two cents but the old axiom "you drive torque and race horsepower" is true. Unless you actually bet folding money on street races or a drag strip regular, I'd choose the options that produce torque. I've got a BBC 402 that's .060 over - that's only 413 CI. Not to offend anyone out there with a BBC but that is a smallish motor and does not justify 3" exhaust or 2" headers. All that stuff seems pretty cool but even the calculations argue against those sizes. I know that my motor will spin to 6500 but rare will be the day that it does. I routinely shift at 5500 and once in a blue moon spool it out to 6000. 1 and 3/4 headers and 2.5 exhaust produce the ideal torque and HP for a .550 lift cam. Note how many 400+ CI small blocks with 1 and 5/8 headers and 2" exhaust are written up in HotRod and other mags. This subject has been studied for years and every time the results are the same. Once in a while one of the big motor builders will "reveal" that they put a 1000 CFM Dominator on a SBC with an RV cam and it ran like a scalded cat. You know as well as I do that somebody is zommin' somebody. I don't know about you, but every engine builder I've ever known would BS their mother if it won them more business or won races. If a motor combination sounds too good to be true...it probably is. Stick to the calculations and run the recommendations and you won't regret it. Speaking from experience - the only "mistake" I made is to put a 770 CFM Holley Street Avenger on my motor. It runs perfect but I am sure that a 670 CFM would have been the better choice. That motor just can not pump that much air. It's like octane - any more than is needed to eliminate preignition is wasted - and more carb volume and exhaust volume than needed to balance the pumping action of the motor is detrimental to performance. I was just another one of those guys that didn't want to stand around the car show and tell people "it's a 600 CFM Holley Wimpalator". But the fact is, the calculator said, as I recall, my engine should have a 600 - I just couldn't buy one. Just my opinion. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:48 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System Thanks to everyone for your input. I spent a few hours going to all suggested websites, trying to learn what I can. Personal experience based input is very important to me. It looks like we are pretty evenly split between 2.5 and 3 inch exhaust systems. I've heard (and please correct me if I'm wrong) that having too much pipe could be detrimental to your torque numbers, because you need a certain amount of back pressure to scavenge (pull) the exhaust out... I guess the real question then becomes does my 396 with a Performer RPM Airgap intake and L78 heads redlining at 6500 - 6800 rpm move enough air to warrant 3 inch pipes. Is there a formula out there to figure that kind of thing out? Of course I'm willing to pay for the 3 inch system if it sounds better and has no detrimental effect on my numbers I found Clint's comments interesting, using 2" head pipes and reducing down to 2.5" after the muffler... Thanks for putting up with my persistent stream of questions here. As I dump all available dollars into this project while dodging my wife's broom, I want to keep my future regrets to a minimum. Thanks, Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 4:06 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System It's time to buy me an exhaust system. The system will go on a fairly healthy normally aspirated 396 running L78 heads and Sanderson intermediate headers with 1 7/8" primaries and 3" collectors. Those of you in the know, please help me decide whether I should go with a 2.5" system or a 3" system. Also, brand suggestions would be great. Thanks, Larry Shouse
Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System
I've got a headers and a Dr. Gas x-pipe with Flowmaster 40s and it is the best sounding BBC I have ever heard, bar none. The sound at idle with a .550 cam turns the head of anybody who has any kind of love for these cars, period. It is music. Craig E. - Original Message - From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:35 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System > I have a Flowmaster system and while it might not be the best possible > sounding system, and certainly an X-pipe is a better design than an H-pipe, > the kit is relatively inexpensive and super-easy to install. I also have a > SB so it's tough to say how my opinion of the sound might be changed by > hearing the same system on a BB. In terms of actual performance comparisons, > again I don't exactly have a high performance engine. I suppose 2.5" is > enough for a SB. > > John Nasta > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold...
My wife, kids and I went for a long walk along the river at a country park today. Balmy 18 degrees with a windchill of one degree above zero. Came home to find a carb rebuild kit had arrived from a Wisconsin Cub Cadet dealer. Now I can do the carb on my 25 year old Cub tractor, mount up the 42" PTO snowblower and get ready for the first decent storm. We got two or three inches yesterday - wasn't worth startin' the tractor for Just call me "Two-track"... - Original Message - From: "Keith Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 5:48 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Cold... > We've had more than a few professional athletes around here do that to their > six figure plus rides. Definitely not the brightest bulbs on the planet. > > Keith > > >From: "Brian Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold... > >Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 12:59:37 -0500 > >I have a friend from Florida who was transplanted here (KY). On his first > >true winter day, he was watching people outside scraping frost and ice from > >car windows. He had the bright idea of dumping boiling water on his > >windows!! And he had a college degree in something or other, obviously not > >science!! > > > >Brian > >
[Chevelle-list] Cold...
Many years ago I was spending a winter in Marquette, MI. The starter went in my truck in December and i had to swap it out in my driveway. It was -15 degrees below zero. The cold soaked through me until I actually ached. The memory of it is still with me today. I HATE winter
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 chevelle on lateral-g forum
Very cool stuff. - Original Message - From: "mike f" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 9:02 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 chevelle on lateral-g forum > Thought you might like to see this. I think Clint has > spoken of the things going on in the camaro world. > Well some is very likely to bleed off into chevelles > and I welcome it. Hope you enjoy these. > > http://www.pinkeesrodshop.com/pinkees/040312r/ > > mike > > > > > > > > __ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
Aint it the truth, Clint. Reagan once announced in a speech that "inflation is tax". The media people didn't understand it so they never attacked him for it. Lucky for Reagan, most media people can't figure out whether they should lease their new Chevy or buy it. For that matter, neither can anyone else because they don't teach the concept in school...they're too busy teaching gay tolerance and Ebonics. Just for the record, my idea of "gun control" is putting the second round through the same hole as the first. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 3:43 PM Subject: Fw: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? Yep,Ronald Reagan said it best. "Government takes from the needy and gives to the greedy." Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis Again, I hate to interject here but the Fed raises rates to check inflation because BUSINESS wants them to, not because government wants them to. 99.% of the people in the world do not know that inflation is TAX. It is not discussed by politicians and media because a) it is over the head of most media people and b) it is over the head of nearly all attorneys and our politicians are all attorneys. Inflation is the systematic devaluation of a currency. When you see the "national debt" number, what is not discussed is to whom that debt is owed. The fact is, the debt is owed almost entirely to American citizens (and their pension plans, IRAs and 401ks) in the form of US Treasury bills and notes and bonds (among which is the ubiquitous Savings Bond). Inflation benefits "net debtors", that is, people or countries or companies who owe more money in debt than is owed to them by others. The government is the biggest "net debtor" by a gigantic margin. Thus, inflation HELPS the government because it allows them to pay YOU back with dollars that have been "devalued"...that is, they are worth less than the dollars you loaned them when you bought the bond, T-bill, T-note, etc. All you Vietnam era vets and citizens might remember that at the end of the Vietnam War the national debt was staggering. In fact, the US could not pay it off so the government, then under Richard Nixon, devalued the currency 25% in one day. And this was on top of inflation rates that ranged from 12% to 20% over the preceeding three or four years. Folks, this is "inflation" gone mad. Some of you might also remember stories about the inflation rate in Brazil being 100% per month and things like that. That, too, is just the government in power "devaluing" the currency. It happens all over the world, all the time. If you really want to see true change in this country, demand that your schools teach people two things: The "time value of money" (also called "discounted cash flow" and how to figure it out) and the difference between "progressive" and "regressive" tax systems. If ordinary people understood these two things, every politician in office would be thrown out on his or her fat behind - Repulicans and Democrats alike. In fact, I'll go farther than that - if people understood the concept of regressive taxes alone every politician in office would be arrested and charged with sedition. The old saying "the rich get richer and the poor get poorer" exists not because rich people screw poor people but because the government screws poor people. They do this because they can - you see, the rich people "get it". They understand how the tax system works and how to circumvent the system. Poor people don't have the knowledge so they get screwed. It isn't a big conspiracy, it is your elected representatives creating a tax system that enables them to tax the people with the smallest voice - and that is you and me. Finally, permit me to say that, I can teach ANYONE who graduated from high school these two ideas and the fact that our high schools do NOT teach these things is, IMHO, nearly criminal. I was taught these ideas in the first accounting class I took to become a CPA. Every CPA understands this stuff which is why all CPAs hate taxes. But that doesn't mean only CPAs "get it". This stuff is pretty easy when it is taught properly. - Original Message - From: Matthew Post To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 11:47 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? I'm going to ha
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
Again, I hate to interject here but the Fed raises rates to check inflation because BUSINESS wants them to, not because government wants them to. 99.% of the people in the world do not know that inflation is TAX. It is not discussed by politicians and media because a) it is over the head of most media people and b) it is over the head of nearly all attorneys and our politicians are all attorneys. Inflation is the systematic devaluation of a currency. When you see the "national debt" number, what is not discussed is to whom that debt is owed. The fact is, the debt is owed almost entirely to American citizens (and their pension plans, IRAs and 401ks) in the form of US Treasury bills and notes and bonds (among which is the ubiquitous Savings Bond). Inflation benefits "net debtors", that is, people or countries or companies who owe more money in debt than is owed to them by others. The government is the biggest "net debtor" by a gigantic margin. Thus, inflation HELPS the government because it allows them to pay YOU back with dollars that have been "devalued"...that is, they are worth less than the dollars you loaned them when you bought the bond, T-bill, T-note, etc. All you Vietnam era vets and citizens might remember that at the end of the Vietnam War the national debt was staggering. In fact, the US could not pay it off so the government, then under Richard Nixon, devalued the currency 25% in one day. And this was on top of inflation rates that ranged from 12% to 20% over the preceeding three or four years. Folks, this is "inflation" gone mad. Some of you might also remember stories about the inflation rate in Brazil being 100% per month and things like that. That, too, is just the government in power "devaluing" the currency. It happens all over the world, all the time. If you really want to see true change in this country, demand that your schools teach people two things: The "time value of money" (also called "discounted cash flow" and how to figure it out) and the difference between "progressive" and "regressive" tax systems. If ordinary people understood these two things, every politician in office would be thrown out on his or her fat behind - Repulicans and Democrats alike. In fact, I'll go farther than that - if people understood the concept of regressive taxes alone every politician in office would be arrested and charged with sedition. The old saying "the rich get richer and the poor get poorer" exists not because rich people screw poor people but because the government screws poor people. They do this because they can - you see, the rich people "get it". They understand how the tax system works and how to circumvent the system. Poor people don't have the knowledge so they get screwed. It isn't a big conspiracy, it is your elected representatives creating a tax system that enables them to tax the people with the smallest voice - and that is you and me. Finally, permit me to say that, I can teach ANYONE who graduated from high school these two ideas and the fact that our high schools do NOT teach these things is, IMHO, nearly criminal. I was taught these ideas in the first accounting class I took to become a CPA. Every CPA understands this stuff which is why all CPAs hate taxes. But that doesn't mean only CPAs "get it". This stuff is pretty easy when it is taught properly. - Original Message - From: Matthew Post To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 11:47 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. Like I said, if the media tells people an economic indicator came in "worse than expected" it's perceived as bad. Even if an indicator may be trending downward, it still can be very strong. GDP has been clipping along at above 3% for several quarters in a row & unemployment is low at 5%. If the economics of the US are so bad, why would the FED continue to raise interest rates? Fact is the economy is doing well, so they are raising interest rates to prevent inflation. Believe it or not, the post-Katrina effect is going to be positive for the economy. Construction, building materials, etc. Of course, all this building is being fueled by government spending. The negative effect of Katrina will be inflation which the FED hopes to prevent and higher deficits. The deficit is being funded by foreign investment at a pace of $100 Billion a Month. So, the US is screwed when other countries won't fund our spending.At 04:54 PM 11/22/2005, Clint Hooper wrote: Germany's reunification with Combloc East Germany is the main reason for their struggles,at the moment. It's certainly not us kicking their butts. As for France,who the heck cares? I'm an optimist but the US economy isn't doing that well,Matt. Most of the economic indicators are trending down
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
By the way, I just wrote a note to the LIST about profits and whatnot - I inadvertently wrote that note in a "reply" to a posted note by Clint Hooper but it was NOT intended to go to Clint. I just didn't think to create a new message for my little rant. So, I hope no one thought I was cranked up a Clint. Just for the record, I wouldn't buy a Japanese car unless you had a gun pointed at me and I was pretty sure you'd pull the trigger. These days I am a recruiter in the automotive industry and recruit plant operations, engineering, and management people all over the country and mostly for domestic OEM suppliers. I know a lot about the business and Clint is exactly right: Unfair trade with China and other countries is killing us. What is even more apalling is that we are not only hiring the Chinese to make the parts, we are giving them the technology and education to do it. It is madness. In my opinion, buy NOTHING made in China...not clothes, not toys, not car parts, nothing. It is the only message you can send. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:28 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? You guys can buy foreign cars all you want. It's your right to do so. I own two GM vehicles and one Harley Davidson. However,unfair trade with the Chinese is what's killing our economy. Just look at ChinaMart's success. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: James Strunk my bottom line,,,when ANYONE owns a japanese product,even if it's your rightyou ARE supporting a country that attacked and brutally killed american solders, such as my grandfather,,, that refuses to allow our products to be sold in their country,,,that's right,,exercise your right,,buy from a race that will not buy from US - Original Message - From: Marlon Hanson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 3:20 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? I think the big picture is that too many of us our looking at our own short term benefit, just as GM and Ford did in the 80s when they let the Japanese take over the auto market. They went for short term quarter to quarter gains profits so everyone in upper management could earn fat bonuses and and stock would go up. Now we have in essense been "taken over" and more ownership of what used to be OUR country is gradually slipping completely out of American hands. Long term, this COULD prove to be a significant problem for our grandchildren. We can't be sure, but I do seem to recall that the brutality of every country we now buy from during past wars. Our "prisoner abuses" are nothing compared to what was done to our soldiers who were captured were subjected to in World War II and since. And... Now that our funds are gradually funneling into the middle east for gas and oil we know what their attitude toward personal liberties are. All that money goes toward buying Ame! rica ... good for us today. For our children? for our grandchildren? I am a bit obstinate, but I carefully look at what I'm buying and try to stay as American as possible. From Cars to Wal Mart, I must admit it is getting harder and harder. Marlon.[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I agree with all of you; but you're missing the big picture. James is right. The Japanese do not open their trading borders, not just for Autos but all products, with the same open arms that we do. Bottom line; follow the money. Where do those profit dollars really go after the cars are built in America? BTW, GM is closing 9[i think] plants and laying off some 30,000 employees. Rich-Original Message- From: Matthew Post <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: Nov 22, 2005 4:12 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List , The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? Are there any vehicles that are ENTIRELY American built anymore? And by that I mean without Canadian or Mexican parts/assembly etc.? I doubt it. Larry makes a good point, but I believe those Japanese cars assembled here are made with mostly Japanese parts. They are assembled here to avoid the customs duties associated with finished goods, but GM and Ford do the same thing in Europe.I guess my point is that the lines are very blurred. People can say "Buy American" and I'm all for it, but you have to w
Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
Just to get things clarified here. One, "profits" go to the OWNERS, be they Japanese, Russian, American, or whatever. That is the way is should be, unless you believe that companies should not make profits or that profits should go to the government. Two, auto manufacturers source components with three things in mind: Price, quality, location, in that order. If you will build a transmission in Ohio for the same price and at the same quality of one built in British Columbia, chances are pretty good that the plant in Ohio will supply the OEM assembly plant in Ohio. There is nothing nefarious going on in the car business any more than there is in the oil business or the lumber business or the pharmaceutical business. Do the people in power at those companies look out for themselves? You bet they do. But remember that ALL people in ALL companies in ALL countries and in ALL industries do exactly the same thing - it is human nature. I was (and still am) a CPA and audited internal controls for years at companies like GM and Mayo Clinic. I know whereof I speak. Business managers have a responsibility to the owners of the company to make money for them. They have a responsibility to do everything in their power to accomplish that goal short of breaking the law. It's their job. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:15 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? Are the US-made Toyotas made in the USA or assembled in the USA? Are their engines and transmissions made here? I know their electronics are not made here. Neither are their rolling stock and suspension components. If the companies are Japanese-owned,most of their profits don't stay in America. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Matthew Post That's very interesting. So, it makes me wonder if that makes it an American car? Guess it depends on how you look at it. Either by where and by who it's made or who ultimately owns the company.At 03:32 PM 11/22/2005, you wrote: I am one of those silent people learning from eveyone else. First, I am the proud owner of a '65 Chevelle SS. Secondly, I work for a Japanese transplant parts suppliers in Missouri. I can't say for all parts but I do know most of the parts on American made Toyota's are made in the USA. From: Matthew Post <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: The Chevelle Mailing List ,"The Chevelle Mailing List" Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 13:12:18 -0800 Are there any vehicles that are ENTIRELY American built anymore? And by that I mean without Canadian or Mexican parts/assembly etc.? I doubt it. Larry makes a good point, but I believe those Japanese cars assembled here are made with mostly Japanese parts. They are assembled here to avoid the customs duties associated with finished goods, but GM and Ford do the same thing in Europe. I guess my point is that the lines are very blurred. People can say "Buy American" and I'm all for it, but you have to wonder how much of the product is really American. Besides, the Japanese automaker pays taxes to Uncle Sam for selling their cars here, same as GM or Ford. Matt At 12:32 PM 11/22/2005, Larry Shouse wrote: I'm not ashamed of owning a Japanese vehicle. As far as I'm concerned it's our right as an American to buy what we feel to be the best fit and value for our given situation. Besides, many "Japanese" cars and trucks are assembled here in the United States, while many of our American vehicles are assembled in other countries. Same goes for parts. You want to buy strictly American? That's your right and I will defend your right to do so, but good luck accomplishing your goal. Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: James Strunk To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:17 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home? I have an idea,,no a suggestion,get rid of that japanese car,,anybody should be ashamed to own japanese cars,they restict owr big three automakers to a specific # of cars that can be sold in japan,, FAIR TRADE ??? I've said before,,If you see me in a japanese car or truck,,call the law,,I've been kidnapped !
Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject
Not in a gazillion years. The shop owner is out of ideas alright. Now his big idea is to avoid fixing his mistake...at your expense. - Original Message - From: "Larry Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle List" Cc: "David Hillberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 11:19 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject > I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop. The engine has > a persistent oil leak. Somewhere in the head area - either the cam > seals or head gasket. The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure > sender replaced, and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one > or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower > engine. > > The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that > stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals. > > Would you guys try this? > > Larry Williams
Re: [Chevelle-list] kooking for A/C advice
Well, it is sure enough in the way when you need to re-torque head bolts and such. If you're putting in anything with alum. heads, I'd pull the stuff. It's easy to reinstall. - Original Message - From: Jimmy C. To: Chevelle Forum Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 2:07 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] kooking for A/C advice Hey Guys, I'm going to be hoisting out my small block tonight to be replaced with a 454ci. the car came with factory air that wasnt working when I got the car. the condenser is already out that I have still in my garage. and I am riding the fence...question I have. do I remove the rest of it while the motor is out (easy access) or is it worth leaving it there for possible future use? me personally can live without it. any pro's & con's . I appreciate any suggestions. Jimmy. C
Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32
Cracks on BBC starter mounts are almost always the result of using the wrong bolt. Starter bolts have knurling between the threads and the head that is meant to fit tightly in the block to absorb the torque of the starter. The bolts are different for each starter (auto, stick are different) and may even differ from year to year. If you have an original starter, rebuild it and reuse it and use the exact correct length and grade bolt. In other words, use the original bolts... Also, I have heard the bolts are no longer being produced. There are companies out there that claim they have them, but they do not have the correct bolt. The moral of the story is don't throw your old bolts out... - Original Message - From: "BILL HINDMAN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:41 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32 > Does anyone have any information concerning mini-starters cracking in > the bolt holes on big blocks. Have to use mini's because of headers. > Thanks, Bill > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:35 AM > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32 > > > Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to > Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > You can reach the person managing the list at > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than > "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." >
[Chevelle-list] My 70 Chevelle SS
If anyone on the list is interested, I am putting my 1970 Chevelle SS up for sale. I came across a new project yesterday that I am going to do and I'm gonna need some dough. My car is on www.neagroup.com/1970chevelle.htm and there is some history on the car there as well. The car was built in Oshawa, Ontario, and I got the original VIN package from Genera Motors Canada so it is indeed a true SS as documented by the factory. The block vanished somewhere along the line and the nimrod that rebuilt the trans gave me a '65 Vette trans and the Vette owner got my Chevelle's trans - they are identical except for numbers but back in 1990, nobody really cared all that much about matching numbers. Oh well. The car runs excellent. Some things need to be done to "finish" it. I've got a spare SS dash that is in excellent condition and ideal for a full resto. The original dash has an oil pressure guage installed next to the radio. I don't mind having that guage so I never bothered restoring the dash. However, over the last couple of years, the speedo quit and the gas guage is incorrect. Also, the tach is incorrect - it's off by 500 RPM at idle and as RPMs climb it gets progressively more accurate until around 4000 RPM it is correct. I have a new tach for it but have not gotten around to putting it in. There are a couple stone chips (I drive this car) and a little scar at the trailing edge of the passenger side door that has been touched up. Otherwise, the paint is excellent and the bodywork is straight as an arrow. The belly pan is painted red like the topsides. The frame is flawless - the car was never hit or damaged and is perfect. I had it up on a frame straightener years ago to check it dimensionally for squareness, etc., and it is perfect. You will not find a better frame - it is A+. The rest is pretty much as described on the website. I pull a plug now and then and they look perfect coffee & cream color. The car runs excellent. New radiator - it'll sit there and idle for days and never overheat. The engine was done by Tyler Crockett for those of you who are from Michigan and might know him. He's the leading BBC guy for the offshore boat crowd (I'm right on Lake Huron) and is the best there is - has a dyno onsite, etc., as well as does all his own machine work. The motor is perfect. I hate to let her go but I stumbled across a new project yesterday and can't help myself. If interested, let me know. It'll be out on that internet sales lot by the end of the week. I have it insured with Haggerty for $35k so, please, serious offers only. It's stored indoors, covered, and will start and drive off instantly so anyone interested in test drives is welcome. All the original numbers matching parts (heads, etc.) go with the car along with the spare dash and a NOS dash pad (that's probably $1500 right there in today's market). The AC is not installed (took it out to put in the cam) but it is stored and works perfectly as goes with the car - even has the original AC compressor. I even have the original axles and gearset. Call me at 810-650-8435 to discuss. TTFN, Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions
Clint - I should have said, what top speed would 6000 RPM generate in FOURTH GEAR with those tires!! Thanks. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions I'm running 4.11 cogs in back. In 4th gear at 70mph,I'm seeing 4,000rpm. In 5th,3,000rpm. And,in 6th,2,000rpm. These numbers are with a 26" diameter 335/35/17 tire. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey I think 4.10 are a tad too steep for me,I like to go on a cruise and not have the engine whine that high at cruise speed.But your car,ya can do what floats your boat. Ron - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis I agree. I've got 3.42s and I'm changing them out this winter for 4.10s... - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 4:51 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions Yep I know that,just think the 3:73's will give it more zip through first and second,that is if I still want to race. Thanks Ron - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions You do realize that a 4 speed will not change the engine speed don't you? 4th gear is 1:1 just like 3rd is 1:1 in the automatic. You'll have to get a 5 speed to have an overdrive.BillLAt 08:29 AM 11/2/2005, you wrote: I was using the stock 3:21..350 with auto..then I had the engine built to around 425 hp and installed a 3:73 so I could drag race every so often..I was thinking of going back to the 3:21 cuz I get tired of hearing the engine whine but now I am thinking of switching to a 4 sp so the gears I have in it will be fine. Ron
Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions
Clint, what top speed would 6000 RPM generate with that diameter tire? Craig E. - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions I'm running 4.11 cogs in back. In 4th gear at 70mph,I'm seeing 4,000rpm. In 5th,3,000rpm. And,in 6th,2,000rpm. These numbers are with a 26" diameter 335/35/17 tire. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey I think 4.10 are a tad too steep for me,I like to go on a cruise and not have the engine whine that high at cruise speed.But your car,ya can do what floats your boat. Ron - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis I agree. I've got 3.42s and I'm changing them out this winter for 4.10s... - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 4:51 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions Yep I know that,just think the 3:73's will give it more zip through first and second,that is if I still want to race. Thanks Ron - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions You do realize that a 4 speed will not change the engine speed don't you? 4th gear is 1:1 just like 3rd is 1:1 in the automatic. You'll have to get a 5 speed to have an overdrive.BillLAt 08:29 AM 11/2/2005, you wrote: I was using the stock 3:21..350 with auto..then I had the engine built to around 425 hp and installed a 3:73 so I could drag race every so often..I was thinking of going back to the 3:21 cuz I get tired of hearing the engine whine but now I am thinking of switching to a 4 sp so the gears I have in it will be fine. Ron
Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions
I agree. I've got 3.42s and I'm changing them out this winter for 4.10s... - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 4:51 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions Yep I know that,just think the 3:73's will give it more zip through first and second,that is if I still want to race. Thanks Ron - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions You do realize that a 4 speed will not change the engine speed don't you? 4th gear is 1:1 just like 3rd is 1:1 in the automatic. You'll have to get a 5 speed to have an overdrive.BillLAt 08:29 AM 11/2/2005, you wrote: I was using the stock 3:21..350 with auto..then I had the engine built to around 425 hp and installed a 3:73 so I could drag race every so often..I was thinking of going back to the 3:21 cuz I get tired of hearing the engine whine but now I am thinking of switching to a 4 sp so the gears I have in it will be fine. Ron
Re: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - Question regarding restification sequence
I agree. The only way to do a resto is on the roll unless you can get the frame & body done in one winter. That means you must have a pro to do the bodywork and paint and another outfit blast and paint the frame. Then, it's the "If you give a mouse a cookie" routine...first you'll need a Currie rearend, then tubular A-arms, the Baer brakes, then a woopie radiator, and on and on and on and on. Then your wife will leave you anyway because, when the day is done, they really don't care all that much about cars. Then you'll be sitting in your garage with a six pack of cheap beer surrounded by car parts that you can't remember how they fit together. But at least you'll have a six pack... Just put a BBC and a stick in it and do the rest as the parts break... - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - Question regarding restification sequence Listen to John! I'm doing a rolling restore just to avoid the far too common pitfalls. (Not enogh cash, time, energy, knowledge etc.) - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:30 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - Question regarding restification sequence 1) get the car back 2) drive it for a year or two 3) work out any mechanical problems in the meantime 4) get it painted if it needs it 5) keep driving it A restoration like you are talking about takes a lot of time and a lot of money, and most people end up not wanting to drive the car after that much work, or everywhere they go they worry about every little thing. You also dont want to take it apart until you are very familiar with it, and you have to realize that once you start taking it apart it's going to be a long time before it's back together. My advice is to just enjoy it for a while before you do anything else.
[Chevelle-list] Trans info
I stumbled across this last night while doing some research on my Dodge Ram transmission. This newsletter has some good content about what's up with the various transmissions and fluids. http://www.accuratetrans.com/newsletter.html Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
Re: [Chevelle-list] orange vs. green anti-freeze
A+++ article. Saved me from making a big mistake. - Original Message - From: "Bill Lessenberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 1:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] orange vs. green anti-freeze > http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272436.html >
Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for
That car is $6k all day long. Buy it, drive it for five years, sell it for 7000. Meanwhile, insurance is $300 a year instead of 1200. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 1:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for > Check out this link! > > http://www.kentuckycarclubs.com/Used_Car_Lot/The_Lot/the_lot_23.html > > > > From: "Ron Menchey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Date: 2005/11/01 Tue AM 07:28:08 EST > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] looking for > > > > Don't know if any of you can help me or not but it will be a start.I have been looking for a 1977 Malibu classic station wagon for years..I am looking for the one that has the center console with swivel bucket seats...WE had a new one and loved it,at least till it was totaled by a snow plow LOL..I have never seen one for sale any where..So if any of you chev guys hears of one PLEASE get back to me > > > > Thanks so much > > Ron > > > > > > Terry S. Hodges > ACES #5982 > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil
For what it's worth, a few years ago Consumers Reports did an extensive analysis of oil in a fleet of 60 New York taxicabs and ran them 60,000 miles tearing the motors down and rebuilding before and after. Their conclusion: Change every 6k and any ordinary 10w30 oil does just fine. The benefits from Mobil One changed at either 15k or 6k miles were unmeasureable and the benefits of changing Mobil One at 3000 mile intervals were wildly exceeded by the cost of the oil and filter. The exception: severe duty such as desert, construction jobsites, continuous trailer towing, etc. For many years I've used Valvoline 10/30 and a good quality ($6) filter and changed every 4k in my pickup and 5k in my wife's minivan. I change the Chevelle once each fall before laying it up because I never rack up more than three or four thousands miles on it. Also, for you motorcycle guys, Motorcycle Consumer News did a chemical analysis of oils a year or two ago that concluded much the same thing - any good quality oil is so good that comparisons do not yield measureable results. The quality of all oil has improved more in the last ten years than in the previous 100 years and ANY oil made in the last few years is better than the very best made in 1990. Technology has moved on. Provided you use the correct oil for your clutch system, any oil is excellent. Finally, HotRod magazine did a comparo of air filters last year - don't know if anyone caught it - but their conclusion: The high end "K&N" $30 filters did no better than a $4 Fram from Autozone in either filtration or ability to "pass gas". For what it's worth, my BIL is an "A&P" (Airframe & Powerplant) mechanic. He uses Amsoil, changes it every 15k with a filter change every 7500. Craig E. - Original Message - From: Mumper, Douglas To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:32 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil I broke in my rebuilt Chevy 400 SB with 30 weight oil then went to 10w40 for summer in Michigan. I have a oil leak ,when I fix it this winter I plan on using Royal Purple 10w30 or 10w40 next summer. Doug 1966 Chevelle From: Larry Shouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 3:23 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil Thanks to everyone for their input on Synthetic oil. Larry - Original Message - From: Jack Thorpe To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 3:15 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil Live in Western Colorado use 15/50 works fine. (after breakin) ---Original Message--- From: Roemer, Timothy Date: 10/31/05 13:03:56 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil I am using 15W-50 and live in New Mexico. Seems to work fine. Tim '69 SS From: Larry Shouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 11:32 AMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil I'd like to hear your thoughts on breaking in your freshly rebuilt engine using synthetic oil... Also, if you use synthetic oil in your daily driver or Chevelle, what brand and viscosity do you use? Thanks, Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for
Go to ebay, put "swivel bucket seats" in quotes select the box for searching title and description and search. Then create a robot. It'll be a matter of weeks before one appears. - Original Message - From: Ron Menchey To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] looking for Don't know if any of you can help me or not but it will be a start.I have been looking for a 1977 Malibu classic station wagon for years..I am looking for the one that has the center console with swivel bucket seats...WE had a new one and loved it,at least till it was totaled by a snow plow LOL..I have never seen one for sale any where..So if any of you chev guys hears of one PLEASE get back to me Thanks so much Ron
Re: [Chevelle-list] BIG BLOCK CHEVELLE HEADERS
I agree. The only headers I could make fit on my '70 were Hedman 1 and 3/4 tubes but they fit perfect and have stayed in place and tight since Day One. They seem to make nice low-end torque with my 402. I had to re-route the starter wires through some heat shielding but that's to be expected. - Original Message - From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] BIG BLOCK CHEVELLE HEADERS > Let's face it,guys. Lowered cars are here to stay but the aftermarket has > been slow to build headers to address this,,especially with manual > transmissions. BB cars are particularly vulnerable because of their larger > tubes. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Larry, > > For what it's worth, I bought a set of the Sanderson long tube big block > > headers. Had a clearance problem on the passenger side of all places. It > > wasn't touching, but far too close to the lower a-arm frame mount. So > > close that at idle or under torque it would have rubbed the frame. That > > and the ground clearance was a concern since my Chevelle is lowered. They > > just hung a little lower than I was comfortable with. > > > > I called Sanderson and they were very helpful and said I could send them > > back for replacement. To improve ground clearance, I am going to exchange > > them for the intermediates. I think they will charge me a "restocking > > fee", but at this point I'm not worried about it. I haven't sent them > back > > yet, but if you're curious how it all works out, I can let you know. > > > > -Matt > > > > > >
[Chevelle-list] Idaho
Is anybody on this list in Idaho? If so, please drop me a note offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED]. Thanks, Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts?
Not only that, but my 70 didn't have shoulder belts. We put them in because my wife didn't want to be in the car without them. Craig E. - Original Message - From: Gene Smith To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:19 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts? Hi, The anchor point was not installed until 67 along with other safety items such as the collapsible steering column and dual reservoir master cylinder. Hard to believe it took over 30 years to come up with the dual reservoir! Gene.. - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 7:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts? Thanks, I will. Maybe in 66, they didn't have an anchoring point on the roof, and only had lap belts? I honestly can't remember what my 66 has, and since it's out getting painted, I can't check. Larry - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 8:14 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts? Honestly,I can't answer that question,Larry. You might email Morris Classic and see what they say. They're very good about answering email promptly. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse Any idea why the 3 point belts are for 67 through 73 and doesn't include the 66? Larry Shouse - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper Here you go,guys. http://www.morrisclassicconcepts.com/ or http://www.customaccessoriesmfg.com/ I think I'm going to go with the Morris Classic three-pointers. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Ron Griffith Pelle, I searched a long time for a set of retractable 3-point seat belts for my '71 El Camino and these were the best deal I could find. I ordered a set and they looked great. Unfortunately, they would not fit my El Camino because of my power seat switch. They would not clear the switch and the door. The company was great about it. They let me return the belts and refunded my money. I found what looked like the same belt at several sources, but these folks were cheaper by anywhere from $20.00 to $130.00. Check them out. There is a good photo of them installed in a Chevelle. Ron Griffith http://www.andoauto.com/Chevelle.htm - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 2:08 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts? What type of seatbelts should I use in my -71 Chevelle? Any Pics? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms
Gents, I don't know if this is helpful but when I was in accounting school many years ago, we were taught about "markups", "markdowns", "markup cancellations" and "markdown cancellations". They may seem self-evident - and are to an extent - but the was these concepts are treated in a set of books is unique. Moreover, learning about them taught us that retailing is all about moving product off the shelves at a certain pace - too fast means the price is too low, too slow means the price is too high. Quality does not enter into it at the retail level. Quality is a wholesale thing - when the product actually hits the shelves, it's all about price. Years ago I paid $300 for a pair of Currie rear upper control arms - the ones with the turnbuckle. Huge parts, huge quality, huge price. Now I see Edlebrock has what looks like the same part for $200. Oh well. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 9:51 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re: Tubular A-arms Ok, to you guys that don't see how I can say what I say about Global West price gouging. You made me do my home work. Here's the results: Global West was smart enough not to advertise their prices in magazines, and I looked through a bunch dating back to at least 2002. So I had to go to one of their retailers and a regular supplier of our parts. I found a 2002 catalog for OPG and could not find the Global West upper A Arms in the catalog. Maybe I missed them? I could not find a 2003 OPG catalog in my house. I found a 2004 catalog and here's what they show for a pair of Global West upper A arms, poly bushings, 68-72: $576.00 I found a 2005 catalog and here's what they show for a pair of Global West upper A arms, poly bushings, 68-72: $599.95 Tonight a web site check shows the price went down to $479 I have been pricing these for several years now in planning to get some for my car. If you can find a 2002 or prior price sheet for these, I know I remember the price for these being below $400 and maybe below $300. That price drop alone within this year of well over $100 a pair says a lot. Now, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with this. Charging what the market will bear is the American way and the free enterprise system! I would do it to if I owned the busines. All I'm saying is that the price was higher than I was willing to pay, given compeition out there with similar quality and lower prices. What I have a problem with is people still buying these just because they are the best.no matter what the price is, and that keeps the price up for the average Joe! Ok, to the guy that said that he learned to buy only the best. That's a very good point! I learned buying cheap tools doesn't paythe hard way. I too will buy quality and not based on price alone. But there comes a point when a craftsman will do for a garage guy, but a HF tool won't, and a Mac or Snap-on is paying for more than you probably need for a hobbyist. Price vs. quality vs. need/use. I know that the cost of business goes up in time, but nothing could justify the way the price on these skyrocketed sometime before 2004. And the price coming down well over $100 a pair this year really says it all to me. Geee I wonder why the price went down that much? Now, in the grand scheme of things, when you have guys paying outrageous prices for these cars at auction who's to blame the parts people for not trying to get in on all of those big bucks flying around? Just don't count me in. I'm still on a budget and haven't cashed in my stock options for millions or sold a house in California worth millions, or hit the lottery or inhertied so much that I don't care what the price is on something. I do care! Steve
Re: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ?
I put shoulder belts in my '70 but they are kind of poorly looking. For that matter, so are my lap belts. If anyone has some nice one's for sale, let me know. C - Original Message - From: "Zieg72" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ? > What year? I got an extra set off a 72... Let me know. > > - Original Message - > From: "Bill Lessenberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 12:33 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ? > > > > Can anyone tell me if the long molding that runs along the bottom of the > > vinyl top in the rear is the same for all 68~72 Chevelles. The one on my > > car was dented and bent by the previous owner & I'd like to get another > > one. If any of you have one to sell that's good, please let me know. > > > > Thanks, > > BillL > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/142 - Release Date: 10/18/2005 > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/142 - Release Date: 10/18/2005 >
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent
Because I have an office, I own a bunch of printers. I have taken to keeping the receipts for the ink - if the cartridge does not launch properly and print properly it goes back. At $40 a pop for carts, I ran out of patience years ago with cart failures and printer failures. I still get bit once in a while, but I stay on top of the printer game now. All their money comes from ink carts. It that's their approach, I make sure I get my money's worth... Also, for what it's worth, I buy nothing but HP. Craig E. - Original Message - From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle List" Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 7:10 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent > Suffice to say it's time for a new printer. This Epson managed to die > roughly 45 days out of warranty. Too bad I spent about $100 on ink just to > find out that it doesn't work. > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent
I'd try, in order, rubbing alcohol, paint thinner, laquer thinner, acetone. I'll bet you a donut the laquer thinner does the Jay O Bee. Craig E. - Original Message - From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:24 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent > Sorry for the OT post. Does anybody know of a solvent for (Epson) ink jet > printer ink? My printer was working fine until the black ink ran out. I have > purchased 2 new black cartridges from 2 separate stores now, and it still > won't print any black. I have run the head cleaning program several times > with no effect. Epson says that if the head cleaning program won't work I > have to send it in for service. Of course the warranty expired a month and a > half ago. I want to try to clean it manually since sending it in for service > is not a practical option. > > Thanks, > John Nasta > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 on ebay
Some homie will buy it or somebody else will pick it up and part it out. Alot of good parts there, I think. Seems to me all the hydralics and batts will bring some serious money on ebay. - Original Message - From: Dan McIntosh To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 4:10 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 on ebay I had nothing to do with this, I swear. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Chevelle-66-LOWRIDER-HYDRAULICS-V8-AUTO-NO-RESERVE-WOW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6164QQitemZ4583283552QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Dan McIntosh1960 Impala Sport CoupeStreet Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com
[Chevelle-list] El Cominos
I spotted an Elco for sale in Smiths Creek, MI, last night on the way home from my son's Cub Scout meeting. If anyone's interested, I'll go check it out in the daylight. Looked pretty good from 50 yards - stock rims, two-tone paint (looked like white topsides with a burgundy wrap-around at the stone chip beltline. I'm in the market for an Elco but I can't keep two cars around so I'll be letting this one go by. Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves?
I decided years ago when I put a 6500 RPM cam in my BB motor that I'd eyeball limit to 6000. I'm not draggin' for money and I'd just as soon not grenade my 1970 vintage block just to spank some yahoo with three earings and a '98 Mustang. If I can't git 'r done with 6k, well, I'll have to accept it. Besides, it doesn't matter how fast some lesser car goes - mine is a Chevelle with fatblock and a Muncie - that makes it more better by definition. Chevelle Snob - Original Message - From: Matthew Post To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves? Yeah, me too. I've also always been careful of hitting rev limiters on other cars I've owned. I am considering a rev limiter for the Chevelle, but have always wonder if a rev limiter can cause harm to an engine as well? Or is it just fouled plugs at worst? Does anyone have an opinion on that?Of course, even if the rev limiter caused some damage, it's probably not as serious as over revving an engine I'm sure. There's no KABOOM! when you hit a rev limiter. Just wondering if there might be long term harm.Thanks,MattAt 11:29 AM 10/13/2005, you wrote: Thank you for the insight, it seems like harm can only come from this and no advantage gained. I have always been won to respect the redline in cars, motorcycles, etc. and the few times over was a "whew it stayed together" Thanks again, Krister -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:01:27 -0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves?Nope...it's basically reving the motor past the point where the valve springs can close the valve in time for the next compression or exhaust stroke. It's a "bad thing"...especially if the piston slaps a valve. That's one of the reasons valve seat spring load is important and why you match springs to cam, etc. Craig E. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves? Well I am 41, been around cars my whole life and have not heard the term "float the valves" doesn't sound like a good thing to do, but what is it? My guess - depressing clutch to shift, but intenially not taking your foot off the gas? Thank you, Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s -Original Message- From: Bob Haggard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:48:21 -0400 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day When I was in the Air Force (66-70) a friend had a red Chevelle SS with 396/350hp. It was a beautiful car and what I always remember was he liked to shift when the valves would float. I was amazed that it stayed together since a high school friend had a 63 Impalla (1963) with 409/425hp that would float the valves when he missed a shift and it would usually end up back at the Chevy dealer to replace bent pushrods and other assorted parts. Bob Haggard - old fart > > From: Bob Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/10/12 Wed PM 04:25:42 EDT > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day > > Reminisicing at the tender age of 17 working in the local burger joint and working the night shift when the night porter Pee Wee drove up with his new 1969 Chevelle SS , Black with Red interior and red stripes, with 396-375 and four on the floor with eyebrows on the headlights?? > > > - > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves?
Nope...it's basically reving the motor past the point where the valve springs can close the valve in time for the next compression or exhaust stroke. It's a "bad thing"...especially if the piston slaps a valve. That's one of the reasons valve seat spring load is important and why you match springs to cam, etc. Craig E. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves? Well I am 41, been around cars my whole life and have not heard the term "float the valves" doesn't sound like a good thing to do, but what is it? My guess - depressing clutch to shift, but intenially not taking your foot off the gas? Thank you, Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s -Original Message-From: Bob Haggard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:48:21 -0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day When I was in the Air Force (66-70) a friend had a red Chevelle SS with 396/350hp. It was a beautiful car and what I always remember was he liked to shift when the valves would float. I was amazed that it stayed together since a high school friend had a 63 Impalla (1963) with 409/425hp that would float the valves when he missed a shift and it would usually end up back at the Chevy dealer to replace bent pushrods and other assorted parts. Bob Haggard - old fart > > From: Bob Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]com> > Date: 2005/10/12 Wed PM 04:25:42 EDT > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day > > Reminisicing at the tender age of 17 working in the local burger joint and working the night shift when the night porter Pee Wee drove up with his new 1969 Chevelle SS , Black with Red interior and red stripes, with 396-375 and four on the floor with eyebrows on the headlights?? > > > - > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. >
Re: [Chevelle-list] assistance with project for school
Michigan Technological University - Mich Tech. Best BSME program there is and their grads occupy many top spots in the OEMs. BSEE is also outstanding. - Original Message - From: RJ Winkler To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 11:13 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] assistance with project for school Im looking to be an automotive engineer. You guys recommend any schools that have that specialized program, co-ops with the big three, and job opportunities when youve graduated? Thanks for any information you can give me. Ive been looking and reading everything and feel like Ive gone nowhere. RJ Winkler From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron MalespinSent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:48 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] assistance with project for school Hi. I'm an engineer. I have not been directly involved with the automotive industry but have worked directly with some of the key car designers. I would be glad to field your questions. Ron M. 67 Malibu - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 2:40 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] assistance with project for school I've been on the list for a while and enjoy reading all of your posts. I am a pre-engineering student and I am researching automotive engineering. I was just wondering if anybody on the list was an automotive engineer. I would just like to ask them some questions to help increase my knowledge of the field. Thank you, you guys and gals are great.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Compression & Fuel Survey
402 bored to 414, 9.5, 93 pump gas, no detonation. Alum heads... - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: Chevelle List Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 8:19 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Compression & Fuel Survey Hi All, If you don't mind, please answer the following: Engine (CID) Compression Ratio Fuel Used (octane) Detonation (Y/N) Method Used To Combat Detonation (if any) Comments I'm just curious what kind of compression everyone is running, and whether you're having any detonation issues. Thanks, Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Garage Bathroom
If you live in an area where freezing is not an issue, it is a great idea. The commode and a sink is all you need and they add value to a home. It is a simple matter to plumb for both and buy the fixtures at a later date when more money is available. Just putting in the Schedule 40 sewer line should be a matter of a couple hundred bucks, tops. You can also install fittings for a floor drain that is NOT connected to your sewer - run them to the outside for later connection to a line leading to a perforated 55 gal drum buried underground and it's perfect for washing cars inside. To avoid problems with the inspector (garage drains were outlawed years ago because people dumped engine oil, etc., down them) install the fitting about 1/4" below the finnished floor grade and measure where they are EXACTLY in relation to the outside edge of the floor. After inspection, a light tap with a hammer will break away the thin cement and, voila', you've got a drain fitting. Completing the drain is simple - the parts mate easily with 1/4 inch of "play". Avoid sloping the floor to the drain - inspectors aren't that dumb. And NEVER dump anything you would not want your dog to drink down ita little soapy water is harmless but antifreeze ain't. When/if you move, plug it so some non-car-guy doesnt abuse it. BTW, this system is often used for hunting cabins in Michigan - a 55 gal drum for a septic tank is sufficient if it's only in occassional use - like a cabin. Craig E. - Original Message - From: Rick Schaefer To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 3:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Garage Bathroom My garage project has been on hold for a while, but I finally have footers dug . My wife suggested that I install a bathroom. I was all for it til I got 3 bids that were way more than I could afford ( and more than I thought reasonable). Today I got 2 comparably reasonable estimates ( is $2600 reasonable?) for a comode, utility sink and water & sewer connections. $2600 otherwise spent would get me a 4-post lift or LS1 for the camaro. I could improvise a sink install and could live without the comode. So for the long term is the bathroom a good investment? -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
[Chevelle-list] BBC/SBC frame towers
I also found this... Stacey, the frame to engine mount brackets are different from small block to big block, however all of the hole locations are the same. The difference is that the big block brackets have a strengthening rib that runs around the bottom toward the front, also it has a notch to clear the interlocking tab in the big block engine mount.Phil is correct in stating that you must use small block engine mounts with small block frame to engine mount brackets, but you can use small block or big block engine mounts with big block frame to engine mount brackets. If you try to use the big block engine mounts on the small block frame to engine mount brackets, the interlocking tab will hit the bracket before the engine mount gets in the correct possition, you wont be able to get it to line up. I found this out the hard way. I had to cut the tab off before I could get everything to line up. Here are some pictures that might help, the big block mounts are in the middle. Frame brackets The link is to pics of the two types. If anyone can sort this out, please do. Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
I got this off a Google search - as usual, it does not put the matter to rest... THE Chevelle ONLINE INTERCHANGE MANUAL: CHASSIS SECTION ENGINE MOUNTING (Chevrolet V8) It is important that the frame mounts that secure the engine should match the motor used, and this is important in which certain components like header clearance and clutch linkage angles are maintained. The part numbers that I have listed for Chevrolet engines are discontinued by GM, but the only way is to find a set that are either NOS or as a reproduction. *There are two frame mounts that are common with the Chevelle, and the Chevrolet part numbers cover both the 1964-67 and 1968-72 vehicles. P/N 3872815/3872816 fits 1964-67 Chevelles with big blocks, and the small block counterparts are P/N 3840715/3840716. Not much is known about the mounting hardware, since the part #s were abstracted from Super Chevy magazine. *1968-72 frame mounts use two different mounts to mount the V8, and the most common mount that is used are P/N 3980711 and 3980712. 307-powered cars used frame mounts 3980707 and 3980708. The 307 frame towers, P/Ns 3980707 and 3980708, are taller and wider than the non-307 frame towers, P/Ns 3980711 and 3980712. The non-307 frame towers locate the engine a 1/2" lower in the engine bay. The engine cushions are specific to the frame mounts listed above. The only completion of mounting a Chevrolet engine into any A-bodied car will require the correct engine cushions, and aftermarket companies like TRW will manufacture the OEM style cushions, or the solid mounting hardware available from Moroso will fit in place of the rubber cushions, but this will wreak havoc on certain components like trannies and the driveshaft. 1970 : CHEVROLET : CHEVELLE : 6.6L 402 cubic inch V8 : Engine : Mount Item Price Core Total Add to Cart ANCHOR Part # 2283 Front Right More Info $5.12 $0.00 $5.12 ANCHOR Part # 2283 Front Left More Info $5.12 $0.00 $5.12 So, the bottom line so far is I dont know and cant find the right data... Craig E. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "jim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > Engine mounts yes. Frame mounts, I don't know. I would suspect yes. > > I went to autozone.com and put in a '72 chevelle big block, then a small > block. Both of the engine mounts are the same. > > Charles > www.65ss.com > > > > - Original Message - > From: "jim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:39 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > > > > can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , > > Jimmy.C > > - Original Message - > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:43 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > > > > > >>I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a BB > >>vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts > >>are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief for > >>clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't > >>know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say > >>stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. > >> > >> Charles > >> www.65ss.com > >> > >> > >> > >> - Original Message - > >> From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > >> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM > >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > >> > >> > >>> If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. > >>> Clint Hooper > >>> H&H Custom,owner > >>> 1969 El Camino ProTourer > >>> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > >>> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > >>> - Original Message - > >>> From: "Ryan Langstraat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> > >>> > Clint > would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable > clearance > problems? > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
That's using your head. Now I wonder if Autozone sells the frame mounts, too? I think I'll go look... C - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "jim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > Engine mounts yes. Frame mounts, I don't know. I would suspect yes. > > I went to autozone.com and put in a '72 chevelle big block, then a small > block. Both of the engine mounts are the same. > > Charles > www.65ss.com > > > > - Original Message - > From: "jim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:39 AM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > > > > can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , > > Jimmy.C > > - Original Message - > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:43 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > > > > > >>I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a BB > >>vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts > >>are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief for > >>clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't > >>know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say > >>stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. > >> > >> Charles > >> www.65ss.com > >> > >> > >> > >> - Original Message - > >> From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > >> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM > >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > >> > >> > >>> If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. > >>> Clint Hooper > >>> H&H Custom,owner > >>> 1969 El Camino ProTourer > >>> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > >>> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > >>> - Original Message - > >>> From: "Ryan Langstraat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> > >>> > Clint > would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable > clearance > problems? > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 101
I think mechanicals advance at a predetermined rate and vacuums advance in relation to manifold vacuum which is roughly dependent upon throttle opening. I have heard that it makes no difference in anything but race applications. Ditto for vacuum/mechanical secondaries in carbs. I was talked out of mechanical advances for either/both years ago but I can't remember exactly why... - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:08 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 101 As a follow-up question, please explain to me the pros and cons of vacuum vs. mechanical advance. Larry - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: Chevelle List Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:03 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 101 OK next question - which distributor or type of distributor would you recommend for the 396 I'm building? As I mentioned before, I'm looking for something I can drive now and then and take to the track once in a while for fun. I know I won't be putting anything in with points. I'm done with that! Thanks, Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
I've got a 70 and have been told that they are different. I sure would like to know the answer to this question because using the wrong mounts supposedly changes the driveline angle and creates vibration issues, etc. If anyone has sets of both mounts for 1970-72 (probably the same for 68 and 69, too), let's do a comparo. Craig - Original Message - From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 1:09 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > I'm pretty sure that it would apply up to 1972,,maybe later. > Clint Hooper > H&H Custom,owner > 1969 El Camino ProTourer > 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > - Original Message - > From: "jim" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks , > Jimmy.C > > - Original Message - > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > >I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a > BB > > >vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form. The frame mounts > > >are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief > for > > >clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502. I don't > > >know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it. So I say > > >stick with the SB stuff. Its all the same. > > > > > > Charles > > > www.65ss.com > > > > > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > > From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" > > > Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts > > > > > > > > >> If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower. > > >> Clint Hooper > > >> H&H Custom,owner > > >> 1969 El Camino ProTourer > > >> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger > > >> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm > > >> - Original Message - > > >> From: "Ryan Langstraat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >> > > >> > > >>> Clint > > >>> would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable > clearance > > >>> problems? > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Muncie 4 Speeds
My engine makes about 425 and I use an M21. Unless you are pulling hole shots, the 21 is more than enough and you can pick them up for $500. Granted, we'll all pull a hole shot once in a while. But for $500, you can break three 21's before you get to a 22... C - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: Chevelle List Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:26 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Muncie 4 Speeds I need to pick up a 4 speed Muncie tranny for my 66 SS396 in the next couple of months. The boss of the guy doing my paint has a rock crusher M22 available for $1400. Talking to my machine shop guy, he is expecting my 396 to produce 400 to 425 horsepower when I put it together. Based on my expected output, is an M22 a good choice, or should I save the money and get myself an M20 or M21? And Gene, when I order the harness from you, what will be the expected lead time? Thanks, Larry
Re: [Chevelle-list] selling parts to the UK??
Any English speaking person that says "...that you have placed for sell now..." is either a moron or from Nigerian and hangs with that dipweed trying to get people to send him 10 large in exchange for 10 really large. E - Original Message - From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "ChevelleList" ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:50 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] selling parts to the UK?? > Have any of you guys ever sold parts to this guy in the UK (see snippets > below). This just seems odd, at the very least it seems dubious. > Notice 2 different email addresses to buy the same part. > Maybe he's just eccentric > > > = > From: AdAuto cars <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 10/2/05 > Hello > I am interested in buying the SBC Hooker Super Comp Chevelle headers > &‘69 Chevelle rear bumper that you have placed for sell now, and I would > want to enquire about the present condition of the above mentioned, as > well as some detail about you. I expect this promptly. > > As for the payment, I would need you to get back in touch with the last > offering price as I will be paying with a cashiers cheque. > > Lastly, please forward to me your full company's (or house address, > telephone and fax) details as I will subsequently prefer reaching you > through these facilities. > > Yours interestingly, > > Raymond Griffiths. > > = > From: guarantee part <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 9/10/05 > > Mike: > Thanks for your response and your mail contents duly noted. > You can not belief how only I had wish meeting you personally to discuss > this unfortunately I am not based in the US but resides here in the U.K > on similar business interest and also have a family home located in > Ontario Canada where I have an old aged whare house (storage & > restoration unit for Chevies etc) which is being run by my son and wife. > > So, could you please inform me bottom price on the headers and in doing > so send to me necessary details--postal address, full name and telephone > number(s)--of whom this cheque should be payable to thus my wife could > mail the cheque from Ontario to you on my behalf. On the shipment, I > have a recommended shipper there who is expected to meet with you for > inspection, survey and arrangement for their conveyance to Ontario . > > On getting the cheque cashed and all agreement are proven to be legal, > he (the carrier) will be directed to establish contact with you for > immediate transfer of the headers to Canada where my wife and son are > designated for receiving orders made by me. > > Raymond. > PS. To reach me: Phone Contacts: Home #+ 44-709-203-8980 and cell # > 44-870-0199-5214. But sorry, I will be out on the road at work today > until 6:30 so until then it would be best to e-mail me as I will be > checking it often and won't be available by phone until I get off of work. > > > = > From: guarantee part <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 9/7/05 > > Hello > I am interested in buying the Spintech Mufflers&SBC Hooker Super Comp > Chevelle headers, 1.75” primaries that you have placed for sell now, and > I would want to enquire about the present condition of the above > mentioned, as well as some detail about you. I expect this promptly. > > As for the payment, I would need you to get back in touch with the last > offering price as I will be paying with a cashiers cheque. > > Lastly, please forward to me your full company's (or house address, > telephone and fax) details as I will subsequently prefer reaching you > through these facilities. > > Yours interestingly, > > Raymond Griffiths. > > = > > -- > -- > When Satan is knocking at your door, simply say, "Jesus, could you get that for me?" > http://www.christianet.com > > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com > TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com > Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 > Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 > > > > -- > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 9/30/2005 >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle
All I know from transporting motorcycles is to avoid compressing the suspension all the way to the stops. About 1/2 of the available travel is usually enough pressure to hold them down.C - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle That's what I was afraid of. I know it's better to anchor to an unsprung point, and there's just not that many places to hook up to since I'm using straps, even with the protective sleeve covering it, I don't feel comfortable wrapping a strap around the a-arms with their sharp edges. I may have to make up two short pieces of chain with a rubber hose over it or something with hooks or loops it the ends. Maybe this justifies buying new tubular a-arms ;-) Larry - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 12:31 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle For flatbed towing I believe we used to hook the a-arms in the front and over the rear axle in the back. John Nasta -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 11:20 AMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle It's time to take my 66SS "shell" to my body and paint guy this weekend. I just loaded the car onto the trailer. Not wanting to wrap chains around anything on my freshly painted chassis, I went to the trailer store and bought a four corner strap tie down system. In a nutshell, it's two straps with a hook at both ends and a "D" ring that you can move up and down the strap so you can loop the straps around something like the rear end on each side and hook the other end to your trailer, plus two more straps which are the same except they both have heavy duty ratcheting buckles on them. My question is, I can run two of the straps around the rear end housing in the back, but where do do you all use for anchoring points in the front of the car??? Thanks, Larry Shouse
[Chevelle-list] Krister
Krister, Just got a note that you're no longer at NSK. Please email me offline so I can update my files. Craig E. NEA Automotive, Inc. Detroit, MI www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction
Boy, don't I know it. I wish I had that old GTO. I wish I had my old 1970 Chevelle Malibu. Green with green vinyl roof, 307, two-speed auto and AM radio and bench seat. I gave it away in 1985 with 150,000 on the clock. Still ran perfect. I bought it from a lady in a retirement home for $500 in 1980 and put $700 into tie rods, brakes, and new Goodyears. Great car. If you can imagine this, her husband bought the car for her new, brought it home and by hand greased the inside of every body panel on the car and the inside of the frame rails. Even took the door panels off and greased the inside of the doors. That car did not have a speck of rust on it and it had spent it's entire life in Michigan. Poor man's undercoating. My only complaint was you had to be careful about how you put things in the trunk - if something fell down by the quarter panel you'd get grease on it. I hated working underneath it - always came up with a glob of grease on me somewhere. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 9:48 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction Hi Craig: I grew up in the 60's & I can relate to what you said. Would I still like to have my L-79 SS from 1965? Of course I would but it's long gone to the crusher. Sold it in 74 after the Army & during my first marriage. Had no place to keep it anyway & the last thing on my mind was owning a 40 year old car in 2005. Aftermarket was the way back then. Either performance or looks, and most of the time you sold what you took off. Never occurred to us to save for numbers matching in the future. The number of people that are original owners of these muscle machines are few & far between. I wish my Mom had a house & garage where I could have stored mine for 30 years. Even as a rustbucket it would have been worth a fortune today as an oringinal L-79. You don't even want to know about the 58-59 Baseball card collection I sold for $10. Bought a tank of gas & went out on a date. Today I own my 4th 65 SS and every time I drive it, it makes me smile. No numbers matching anything but some of the sheetmetal. No muncie shifter and no chalk marks anywhere. Close the hood & it looks like the 60's. A lot of shine and custom wheels. Not much stock under the hood either and the flowmasters are like music. Nothing stuffy about me or my car and people let me know they approve all the time. I admire and respect the stockers and the people that build them and if I did have that first 65, I'm afraid it would have to be a trailer queen today. Personally, I want to drive, have fun and leave the numbers to the purists. Let them worry about the right screws, bolts, and chalk marks. If it's your car you do whatever makes you smile whether that's going for 1000 points, pro street or in between!! And NEVER condemn those that don't share your views. To each his own. That's one of the beauty's of this hobby. The flexibilty to be yourself! Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message-From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: Craig Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 07:52:23 -0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction Well said Craig. I too grew up in the '70's doing as you said, except I was a Ford man back then . As I "restore" my 66, my plans are to go original within reason - the body and interior will be original, but I will make safety and performance upgrades. And like you, if I use after market parts, I will keep the original parts for the next guy or gal, if I ever sell this thing of course... - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction I don't know about anyone else, but I grew up in the muscle car era - had a '66 GTO in high school and worked at a local factory as a press operator to pay for it. The FIRST thing that happened to that car was ET mags. Then headers and 'vette exhaust under the door. Then a Holley 850 double because my buddy's Z28 spanked me. Then a Hurst shifter. I have no idea what happened to the original parts. That was muscle car era hotrodding. Hotrodding 32 Fords was a whole other thing but with muscle cars it was all about exhaust, cams, wheels, carbs and once in a while some serious dude would port the heads - and with cast iron, that was no mean potatoes - or stroke & bore. Only the south end greasers did that stuff...not us north end frat
Re: [SPAM] [Chevelle-list] Battery acid concentration?
John is correct. You must load test a battery to determine if it's OK and even then, it's not foolproof. I've got a '98 Dodge Ram pickup with the original factory battery and it still works perfectly. I have no idea why this is so - it should have been gone years ago. Not only that, there is not a speck of corrosion on the top of it and never has been. It looks and acts brand new. Weird. - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 12:46 PM Subject: [SPAM] [Chevelle-list] Battery acid concentration? As u might recall I've had problems with my starter hitting the flexplate!? The battery says ok when I check the "green spot" on its top! The charger says it's ok and fully loaded! (trickle charger) But when I check it with an acid concentration meter (don't know its proper name) it just says "fair" (on a Good/fair/poor scale). What's your conclusion of this? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction
I don't know about anyone else, but I grew up in the muscle car era - had a '66 GTO in high school and worked at a local factory as a press operator to pay for it. The FIRST thing that happened to that car was ET mags. Then headers and 'vette exhaust under the door. Then a Holley 850 double because my buddy's Z28 spanked me. Then a Hurst shifter. I have no idea what happened to the original parts. That was muscle car era hotrodding. Hotrodding 32 Fords was a whole other thing but with muscle cars it was all about exhaust, cams, wheels, carbs and once in a while some serious dude would port the heads - and with cast iron, that was no mean potatoes - or stroke & bore. Only the south end greasers did that stuff...not us north end frat boys - and they cleaned our clocks at the local 1/4 every Saturday night. Today, muscle cars are about getting the chalk marks correct on the rear end diff and sourcing NOS bias ply tires. I'm sorry, but I don't really get that. I mean, I respect it and I respect the meticulous attention to detail, etc., but it so not me. For years, I didn't even know how to tell if the block matched the chassis - I didn't know or think it was important. When I got my Chevelle years ago, as soon as I had the money, off came the heads and on went aluminum...and a cam and carb and wheels with some swingin' KDW tires. Oh yeah, and headers and xpipe and Flowmasters and lower springs and a Mallory and the A/C is out in the shed. Now it's MY car. It sounds, looks, and drives like the nasty old girl she is. It ain't perfect - nothing I have is - but I like it. At least this time I kept the heads, intake, A/C and manifolds. They're sitting around collecting cobwebs...probably leaking oil on something. Craig E. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sep 25, 2005 11:30 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction If one only had a unlimited bank account ! Larry (Z) 1969 Chevrolet Camaro ZL-1, 4-Speed. - Lot:X20 at Mecum In Chicago - Mecum Auction
Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert
Charles, Thanks. I wonder what they're made of? Must be vacuum formed styrene or something. Do you think clear coating it would help??? Craig - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert Just FYI http://65ss.com/index.php?p=20 I put a Covan's dash in my 65, and I put up a review and a picture at the above link. They look great once in place, but are of a very pliable plastic, with an easily scratched surface. Later Charles - Original Message - From: jim To: Craig Ellis ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 2:00 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert hey Craig, try www.covansclassic.com . I have never used or seen the actual instrument cluster insert but down the road I think thats the way I'm gonna go in the near future. Jimmy. C - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: Chevelle List Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 10:49 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across a nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the list knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want to attache the photo until I know it's OK to do so. Craig E.
[Chevelle-list] Dash insert
Thanks for the suggestion, Dale. Here's the dash I'm interested in. If anyone knows anything about this dash insert or where I might find one, please let me know. I've posted a link to a photo of it out on my company website. Here's the link: http://www.neagroup.com/Chevelle-dash%20insert.jpg Craig E. Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 810-388-1345 www.neagroup.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] NEA Automotive, Inc. "The Expert Source" for Automotive Professionals
Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert
Dale, Yes, I can do that - I just figured it out. I'll post it now. C - Original Message - From: "Dale McIntosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "elle Mailing List" Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:21 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert > I think it's discouraged (1) due to virus possibilities and (2) many people use a text-only email system and wouldn't see it anyway. Can you upload the picture to a web site and then post a link to it? > > Dale > > > -- Original Message -- > From: "Craig Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: Craig Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,The Chevelle Mailing List > Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 11:49:17 -0400 > > >Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across a nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the list knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want to attache the photo until I know it's OK to do so. > > > >Craig E. > > > > > > > > > >
[Chevelle-list] Dash insert
Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across a nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the list knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want to attache the photo until I know it's OK to do so. Craig E.
Re: [Chevelle-list] I'm baaaaccckkk...
Chuck, try these guys. http://www.cvvacuumplaters.com/ I talked to them today and they appear to know their business.Craig - Original Message - From: Chuck Speake To: 'Rick Schaefer' ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 5:04 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] I'm bccckkk... I have a 70 Malibu and no one rechromes this dash as far as I have been able to find they do rechrome SS, but not Malibu. If I were to refinish the dash myself how do you refinish the chrome areas on the dash so it will look really good. I have touched up a few spots with chrome enamel and it worked ok, but does not give you the shine of chrome, more of a dull silver. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Best regards,Chuck SpeakeCell Phone: (630) 776-0314[EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message-From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:51 AMTo: Craig Ellis; The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I'm bccckkk... Personnally if I had an original I'd use it over the repop and especially if you want to go original in the future. Either refinish it yourself (I've seen several excellent home resto's) or use the $300 cost of the repop dash panel towards having your spare original professionally done. I've read of several issues with the repops that may or may not bother you - depending on how anal you are about originality - LOL . On 9/20/05, Craig Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I've been off-list for a lonnnggg time but winters approaching and it's time to fix all the junk that's wrong with my little red chevelle. For openers, I'm wondering if anyone has installed one of those repop 1970 SS dashes. I dropped a note to No-Neck but then I remembered this list LIST! I've got an original SS but a DPO put an oil gauge in the dash. I've also got a spiffy replacement (an original 1970 SS dash) that's perfect but needs rechrome, paint, etc. I'm thinking about just putting one of those repop numbers in there this winter and waiting until I've got a little more money to get the good original one ready. Does anyone have experience with these? Do they look pretty good? Do they fit well? All help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Craig E. -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lifters 101
Hydraulic rollers are the way to go if you've got the extra money. More lift and the valves can be held closed or open for a more optimal length of time to facilitate filling/emptying the chambers. In other words, the steepness of the lobe incline can be more radical because the roller lets the parts move against one another without friction. The BIG payoff is in lift and lobe shape and maximum air/fuel charge in the cylinder. There is just no arguing with it. Hydraulic flat is next best, IMHO, and is what I went with on my 402 build. I used Edelbrock oval port heads and a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy grind and I'm pickled tink over it. It runs and sounds outstanding (it had THE best idle lope I have ever heard in a car that is driveable - positively gnarly). I've been very happy with my choice but, that said, if I had it to do over again, I'd go the extra dough and get rollers. THere's just something about all the rotating hardware on bearings that makes perfect sense to my wee little dinasaur brain. Compared to rollers, flat tappets seem, well, so 70's... craig E - Original Message - From: Larry Shouse To: Chevelle List Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 10:57 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lifters 101 Can someone reply with a brief tutorial on lifters? I'm getting ready to start assembling my 396, and I'd like your opinions on the pros and cons of each of the following: hydraulic flat hydraulic roller mechanical flat mechanical roller In my specific case, I'm looking to build a reliable driver I can use on the Power Tour next year, but take to the track for a bit of fun now and then. Money is an issue, but I wouldn't mind spending a bit more if I can pick up some ponies along the way... Thanks, Larry Shouse
[Chevelle-list] I'm baaaaccckkk...
I've been off-list for a lonnnggg time but winters approaching and it's time to fix all the junk that's wrong with my little red chevelle. For openers, I'm wondering if anyone has installed one of those repop 1970 SS dashes. I dropped a note to No-Neck but then I remembered this list LIST! I've got an original SS but a DPO put an oil gauge in the dash. I've also got a spiffy replacement (an original 1970 SS dash) that's perfect but needs rechrome, paint, etc. I'm thinking about just putting one of those repop numbers in there this winter and waiting until I've got a little more money to get the good original one ready. Does anyone have experience with these? Do they look pretty good? Do they fit well? All help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Craig E.
RE: [Chevelle-List] '70 Chevelle LS6
Title: Message Yeah, but at BJ, the BUYER pays the fees... -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dale McIntoshSent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 12:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] '70 Chevelle LS6 Probably right. If it sold at reserve, his ebay fees would be around $3100 as best I figure. I watched a thing on Car Crazy this afternoon where a guy sold a custom Motor Trend magazine 67 Camaro at BJ for $41,000 and his fee was about $3200 or so. That and his time to haul the car there, hotels, food, etc. he walked away with something like $36,000. Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dale’s Place – My 67 SS and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff – Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67 – 1967 Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles – Midwest Chevelle Show Information -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 10:22 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] '70 Chevelle LS6dale : i think it is more of an advertising thing. i doubt if they even get a bid Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
This was good stuff. When I was done reading, I went downstairs and installed the smaller pipes. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Tom TomlinsonSent: Friday, June 13, 2003 6:35 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I'm no expert on this, but I found the Sanderson Header web site to be helpful. See: http://www.sandersonheaders.com/letsgettech3.htm Tom Tomlinson -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Friday, June 13, 2003 12:19 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Bill, Thanks very much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 and 3/4. My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM. Comp Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration @ 50. Lobe sep is 110. Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift Muncie, Performer RPM intake with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 3/4 or would the 2" produce better results overall? I hate to bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on what to do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I drive it alot. I also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty good. I just don't know which ones will give the best results. Thanks -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander WerfSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation You can get the supercomps in from underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the motor mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a cherry picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it with the hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had to remove them a time or two. I have the 2 ceramic coated version and by laying a towel on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to install them more than once without scratching them. As far as your question about header size; I would use the 1 ¾ setup for the street, even with a mild 454. If the car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, and did use the 2. Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the motor, the bigger the pipe. Bill Vander Werf -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:07 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Jeff, Yeah, it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really wondering which one's to go with. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I installed a set of Hooker Header Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them from the bottom up into the engine compartment. Jeff Wysocki Brownstown Twp., Michigan 1970 Chevelle SS 1968 Chevelle <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Well, I took your advise and put them in today. Quite a chore - had to release the motor mounts, pick the engine/trans up about two inches to get them in. Between that and rerouting starter wires, etc., it's all day job. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander WerfSent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 8:37 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I would recommend the smaller headers for day to day use. You get a broader torque curve that, in most cases, makes the car stronger all around. Bill Vander Werf -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Friday, June 13, 2003 12:19 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Bill, Thanks very much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 and 3/4. My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM. Comp Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration @ 50. Lobe sep is 110. Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift Muncie, Performer RPM intake with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 3/4 or would the 2" produce better results overall? I hate to bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on what to do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I drive it alot. I also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty good. I just don't know which ones will give the best results. Thanks -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander WerfSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation You can get the supercomps in from underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the motor mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a cherry picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it with the hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had to remove them a time or two. I have the 2 ceramic coated version and by laying a towel on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to install them more than once without scratching them. As far as your question about header size; I would use the 1 ¾ setup for the street, even with a mild 454. If the car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, and did use the 2. Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the motor, the bigger the pipe. Bill Vander Werf -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:07 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Jeff, Yeah, it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really wondering which one's to go with. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I installed a set of Hooker Header Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them from the bottom up into the engine compartment. Jeff Wysocki Brownstown Twp., Michigan 1970 Chevelle SS 1968 Chevelle <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Bill, Thanks very much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 and 3/4. My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM. Comp Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration @ 50. Lobe sep is 110. Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift Muncie, Performer RPM intake with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 3/4 or would the 2" produce better results overall? I hate to bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on what to do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I drive it alot. I also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty good. I just don't know which ones will give the best results. Thanks -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander WerfSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation You can get the supercomps in from underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the motor mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a cherry picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it with the hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had to remove them a time or two. I have the 2 ceramic coated version and by laying a towel on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to install them more than once without scratching them. As far as your question about header size; I would use the 1 ¾ setup for the street, even with a mild 454. If the car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, and did use the 2. Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the motor, the bigger the pipe. Bill Vander Werf -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:07 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Jeff, Yeah, it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really wondering which one's to go with. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I installed a set of Hooker Header Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them from the bottom up into the engine compartment. Jeff Wysocki Brownstown Twp., Michigan 1970 Chevelle SS 1968 Chevelle <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
They won't go in from underneath without removing the steering colume, I think. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of James Strunk Jr.Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 7:26 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Hey Craig,,,find a friend that works at a service station,,put it up on a rack,,slide it in from below - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:22 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Yeah, I got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. I'm wondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I can feed them in from the top. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Jeff, Yeah, it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really wondering which one's to go with. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header installation I installed a set of Hooker Header Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them from the bottom up into the engine compartment. Jeff Wysocki Brownstown Twp., Michigan 1970 Chevelle SS 1968 Chevelle - Original Message ----- From: Craig Ellis To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:22 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Yeah, I got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. I'm wondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I can feed them in from the top. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Aint it the truth. So far, the pass side went in easily. The drive side is really tough. The BB motor is quite a bit wider than the SBC. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:23 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation If you lift the motor and the car, you should be able to work it through from the top, without messing with the steering. At least on my SB. Again, I'm not sure on the BB. It was a pain even with my block! I'm fairly certain there are still a few curse words lingering around in my garage from that install! Sarge -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:23 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Yeah, I got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. I'm wondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I can feed them in from the top. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message-----From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Engine setup!
Probably around 350hp. For performance, heads (with headers) are more important than any other part. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of LaharSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:58 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Engine setup! At the moment my Chevelle's got a 402 (bored 0.30) an Edelbrock RPM Intake and a Holley 800 DP! What's the approx bhp for this combination & is there anything i should replace to get better performance without ruin myself? I'm planning a full restoration of the engine soon! Best RegardsPelle Andersson http://members.chello.se/trancearctica/gastrash/members/pelle641013/index.html
[Chevelle-List] steering colume removal
It looks like I'll have to remove the steering colume to get the headers in on the drivers side. Anybody know the best way to do this??? Thanks, Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation
Yeah, I got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. I'm wondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I can feed them in from the top. C -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, I can't be entirely sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. Sarge -Original Message-From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header installation Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] is it the coil?
I thought I had a coil going bad once but it turned out to be a failing wire. The wire that led to the ballast resistor had corroded almost through. As long as there was a connection, the car ran perfect. When it would break connection it would behave as though I had water in the gas. Craig E. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of tigergutt Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:58 AM To: chevelle-list Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil? I dont think a coil can go bad, I think its either working or not working. I had the same issue with my hei and changed the module, it worked fine until it got hot and then it started missfiring, I later upgraded to an MSd module, coil and bushing and its stronger than the original ever was. If you go for the msd module remember to upgrade to a heavier gauge wire or it will burn. André > Can anyone provide me with some symptoms if the HEI > coil is going bad? > > Tonite, to solve my prob of my car running crappy, I > figured I'd start with the obvious and change my > plugs. Yesterday I put new wires on it, and after > changing the plugs, the car will barely stay running > at the current idle settings. A week ago it was > totally fine- For anyone not familiar with my engine, > it's a freshly rebuilt 327 with a brand spanking new > Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb. It was running great, > I took it out for a 10 mile spin last Thurs nite, and > as of Sunday I am having all of the issues described > above. > > I have checked all vacuum lines, and they are all > connected just as they were last week when it was > running fine. I have also looked at the distributor > to make sure it didn't move, and it has not. > > Could this be that my hand-me-down HEI is dying? > Would a dying coil cause the issues I'm having? > > Thanks, > > Jim > '66 Malibu > > > __ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). > http://calendar.yahoo.com > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible & possibly 1969 El Camino
I think Rich is onto something here. I squawk about the flaws on my car and have even laid awake at night fussing over it. But there is no doubt in my mind that I'm the only one who sees that stuff. Most everyone who has ever seen the car thinks it's "flawless". Of course, that's only because no one has ever really seen a flawless one! I drive the car to work (when it runs), drive it to shows, put car seats in the back and my kids squash the occassional freedom fry into the carpet (it cleans right up) and so on. But, to me, the car is worthless unless I'm driving it and lets face it, driving it causes wear & tear. The only thing worse than getting a car painted is getting a house built. Craig E. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard M. Pruett Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 9:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible & possibly 1969 El Camino John, I, too, am a perfectionist. I can point out flaws all over my truck; the truck I learned to drive on and kissed my first girl in. BUT, you are talking about a road driven, worked hard, 35 year old truck that was abused by me as a teenager! It's my truck and I love to drive it; feels like I've gone back in time and I love it when people look and wave. I remember seeing the pictures of your elky from the junkyard and followed the saga up to the painted, almost finished elky and felt your emotions flowing through your e-mails about how excited you were to almost get her home. True, I haven't seen her "in person" by I suspect that many of the flaws you are concerned about, will not be visible to those of us who do not know her as well as you do. I would bet that if you were ask the list about their cars, if they are honest, they would tell you that they too have little things that bug the crap out of them. John, you saved another old vehicle from the dreaded crusher; enjoy it. I promise you, if you sell it after waiting so long and coming so far with this project, you will not forgive yourself. Rich -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible & possibly 1969 El Camino The Elky is not terrible. It's decent but it's not what I had in mind. I'm a real perfectionist with this stuff and another person might think it looks just fine. I don't think I want to pay to have the body and paint and floor pans done over. I have it in a friend's garage. He has a lift and a mig welder, and we will probably do the floor pans ourselves. Then it will be a very decent looking and completely solid car with no rot or bondo patchwork. I would put it in a garage under a cover except that right now garages cost me $150/month to rent, so that's more money out the window. Insurance through Hagerty is only about $75/year so if I'm keeping it in a garage I would definitely keep it registered anyway. John Nasta -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBS Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:21 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible & possibly 1969 El Camino AAA! Don't give up on the ELKY! Just 'cuz ya had a little trouble with the body guy, doesn't mean you need to give up on the car. I personally thought that the paint job and body work came out pretty damn good, at least from what I could tell in the pictures. Hell, I'd be happy with that paintjob on my Chevelle. Anyway, I think I speak for the majority of us when I say that we have all had someone along the resto line give us a bad shake. You can take a break, sure, but put the car in the garage, under a cover, and let it sit for a while. Trust me after all the work you put into it, you'll regret selling it before too long. I still kick my own a$$ everytime I think about the V8 S10 I built and sold within a couple months. Damn, I though about it again, now I have to kick my own A$$. Ouch! Sarge -Original Message- From: John Nasta [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 9:52 AM To: Chevelle List; Olds Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible & possibly 1969 El Camino Hi all, I am thinking about selling my Olds and maybe even the El Camino. After last week's fiasco I think I want to take a break from it all. The Olds: 10.25:1 455 w/ 4bbl has 20k on complete stock rebuild. +.010 crank, stock pistons, original distributor, stock cam, original air cleaner in good cond. About 3k miles on new transmission. Matching-numbers transmission needs work but goes with the car. It's an excellent running car. I have driven it from NY to North Carolina and back w/o any trouble. Master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, all shocks & springs have been replaced. Everything wo
[Chevelle-List] Header installation
Well, since I got so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on. I need help on this one - anybody know how it's done??? Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers
Title: Message Dang, those are NICE covers. I think I'm gonna go for the ball milled jobs. I figured out that short ones will work if I use a spacer. BTW, it's a BB motor. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dale McIntoshSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 9:15 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers What engine? Billet Specialties has short and tall covers for both small and big block Chevys in a plain, no design, style. Go to http://www.billetspecialties.com and click the "Valve Covers & Accessories" link. Small block units are $80 a pair and big block units go for $160. Small block short covers are 2.550" overall height and the tall ones are 3.700". Big block units don't list the overall height of either style. Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dale’s Place – My 67 SS and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff – Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67 – 1967 Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles – Midwest Chevelle Show Information -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 11:38 AMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers I've found that I need a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does anyone know of a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big ones like the Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my vacume can or my heater core housing. I'm looking especially for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just plain is my preference, but at this point I'll take all suggestions. Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers
Well, they're beautiful but won't work. That doesnt bother me much considering the price. The clearance problem is with my power brake canister. I think the double gasket solution might work. Another solution I found this afternoon are spacers. They are made by Stef's and Flatlander Racing sells them for about $80 a set. They raise the covers about 1 inch. Just perfect for my needs. Craig -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Kyle BennettSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:35 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers Here they are http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=23147&prmenbr=361 Kyle ---Original Message--- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:23:52 PM To: Chevelle Subject: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers I've found that I need a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does anyone know of a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big ones like the Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my vacume can or my heater core housing. I'm looking especially for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just plain is my preference, but at this point I'll take all suggestions. Craig E. IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Cleaning a cast iron intake manifold
Just a thought, but an engine builder buddy of mine opines that since the blocks and manifolds were sand cast originally, they must have had a way to get the sand out reliably. That's why there are all those extra holes. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of gm2 Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 8:49 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Cleaning a cast iron intake manifold Hi, I just picked up a cast iron 4 barrel intake manifold from a fellow list member, Brad O. The manifold needs to be cleaned since the inside has some surface rust and some rust particles that are falling out. Can I bead blast the unit and how do I clean it up so no particles fall into the engine after it is installed? I plan on buying a bench top blaster, so this might be the perfect excuse to get one. Or, would I be better off sending the part out to get cleaned and dipped? The underside has an aluminum cover that looks like it is riveted on. Can this be removed and can I get replacement rivets to put it back on. After it is clean, should I use any paint on the underside to stop any ne rust particles from forming? Thanks, Gary 64 Chevelle Convertible - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Valve covers
I've found that I need a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does anyone know of a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big ones like the Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my vacume can or my heater core housing. I'm looking especially for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just plain is my preference, but at this point I'll take all suggestions. Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Transport from CA to FL??
Ditto the comments below on AAA Transport out of Arizona. Really the worse experience I've ever had moving ANYTHING by truck. I'd go with the earlier recommendation someone made to not use a hauler unless you can meet them first, review their insurance policy and even check with the underwriter to make sure they are covered. OTR trucking is positively RIFE with dipsticks and thieves. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 2:08 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Transport from CA to FL?? i have just one comment. Do not use E & J transport service out of Sacramento. They messed my car up hauling it from Corona, Calif. to Portland Oregon. the car disappeared for 5 days and had 2000 bucks worth of damage to it. They would not give me the name of their insurance company and after they finally did they wouldn't give me the phone number. After about 2 weeks of fighting I got in touch with the company. The claim had been turned in that day. immediately the adjuster thought something was fishy and told me not to worry within 5 days I had a check cut to me for 2100 and some change. I wouldn't let them haul a f**d to the wrecking yard. Larry (Z)
RE: [Chevelle-List] SBC head bolt sealant
The ARP stuff is bound to be good. I'm using Permatex because I can buy it at the local parts store. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 9:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] SBC head bolt sealant What's the best sealant to use on SBC head bolts? I'm going to be using black Permatex for the intake end seals but don't know if it's appropriate for the head bolts. Thanks! Brad O. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Head bolt torque
Well, I was just about to start torquing head bolts when I read the Edelbrock sheet, then the ARP sheet and, guess what...they disagreed. Edelbrock says torque to 75 on all but the shorties and ARP says "we recommend 60 pounds on aluminum head due to rapid heat expansion rate" blah blah blah. What say the list: 60 or 75? Craig E. <>
[Chevelle-List] Super comps
Found a set of Super Comps on ebay tonight for 64-67 model years. Item # 2417041198 <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are you from?
Will do, Carl. I'm over there quite a bit. Planning a couple trips to Grand Bend this summer for test & tune, etc. I'll post you when I'm coming over. C -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carl Farnand Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 8:44 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are you from? Craig. It's a long summer. We have cruise nights on Sunday nights at the A&W across from Lambton Mall. Bring your wheels over one night and I will ensure that I have a "good" Canadian beer on tap if I know your coming. Carl -Original Message- From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 8:46 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are you from? Hey, Carl. I wish I would have known you were in Sarnia. I'm in Port Huron. I was over last Saturday night at the River Rock Cafe sitting in with some old musician buddies of mine. I would have stood you a Blue had I known. Craig Ellis 70 SS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carl Farnand Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 8:30 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are you from? Carl Farnand Sarnia, Ontario, Canada, 55 yrs. old, 69 SS 396 This site has been a great source of information especially for myself who is new to Chevelle restorations and somewhat mechanically challenged but willing to learn and try. Who said an old dog can't learn new tricks. Presently converting my SS to a 4-speed. Thanks for all your help so far! Carl - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Suspension questions
I just got a couple of rear upper control arms from Currie. They are the turnbuckle adjustable type - very nifty, but expensive. I'm looking for new lower arms that will accept my sway bar. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, my car suffers from wheel hop. I bought the upper arms to enable me to adjust my pinion angle. Other than that, does anyone have any suggestions on other steps I might take - like traction bars, etc. I am unfamiliar with coil sprung rears and have been going with the recommendations that make the most sense (like the turnbuckle uppers). Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras
Title: Message Thanks, Brad. That's good advice. I'll probably keep it. It will do untill the price of 5mg/p cameras drops enough to persuade me to buy one. I'm not all that into gadgets - I'm just too cheap to buy them when they first come out. Shoot, I didn't buy a DVD player until they hit $139 at Sam's Club. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 12:58 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras If the 4230 works, then keep it. I have a 1.3 mega pixel camera that I still use. I would not mind higher resolution to let me have full screen shots that are a bit clearer than what I have now, but all the pictures you saw were taken with that camera. So you have twice the resolution! If you are doing pictures for the computer, you really have all the resolution you will need until you decide to get into some more advanced stuff. For 4x6 prints, you will not notice a difference, and you can go to 5x7 without noticeable pixels. I think if you made an 8x10 you might not like it, but then again you might be different from me and think it is OK. For point and shoot, you will be fine. Brad -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:15 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras Yeah, that's a good point. I already deleted one of the "portraits" that showed her running away... I thought about the 4330 model but Target was clearing out the 4230's for $169 and it seemed like a good deal. Is the quality of the pics you get with the 4330 worth the extra dough? If memory serves, they were about $300 at Target. Craig E -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:40 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras Yep, they all do that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You will be hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If you get the dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you may never need to buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, and you may never have to do anything other than dock the camera. I know how easy this is, because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB card for our daughter's Pre-School for the teachers to use. As for taking pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and have taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. At least with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones and then re-take the ones that did not work. Brad Waller -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras I have what is probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next room. Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras
The burst mode idea sounds cool to me. Maybe I'll look into that. The camera I picked up wasn't a planned thing - I just saw it and bought it. I had not thought about the "burst mode" idea. Cool. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rodney. Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:13 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras It's just like anything, Craig. What's it worth to you? :) For $4000+ you can get a Cannon EOS 1D that won't have that lag time. As a cheaper alternative, it's probably best to get a camera in your price range that has a burst mode. You hold the button down and it takes 5 or so shots quickly, one after the other. That way you can push it down a little before your shot and odds are one of the five shots will be a good one :) Rodney. - Original Message - From: Craig Ellis To: Chevelle Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:25 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras I have what is probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next room. Craig E. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras
Title: Message She's a cutie, allright! Man, I love 'em when they're that age! Mine are 3 & 5 now. If I wasn't so old and cranky, I'd have a few more. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:55 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras I forgot one other thing. You can "pre-focus" most cameras by slightly pressing on the shutter button. Once you have done this, the time to take the picture is close to 1/10 of a second. Practice this technique and you will have much better luck with kids and animals! I have not updated the pages in a while, but here are links to a few hundred digital pictures of my daughter: http://ep.com/brad/mari/ I now use the flash for virtually every picture - this seems to help quite a bit. Brad -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:40 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras Yep, they all do that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You will be hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If you get the dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you may never need to buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, and you may never have to do anything other than dock the camera. I know how easy this is, because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB card for our daughter's Pre-School for the teachers to use. As for taking pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and have taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. At least with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones and then re-take the ones that did not work. Brad Waller -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras I have what is probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next room. Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras
Title: Message Yeah, that's a good point. I already deleted one of the "portraits" that showed her running away... I thought about the 4330 model but Target was clearing out the 4230's for $169 and it seemed like a good deal. Is the quality of the pics you get with the 4330 worth the extra dough? If memory serves, they were about $300 at Target. Craig E -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:40 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras Yep, they all do that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You will be hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If you get the dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you may never need to buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, and you may never have to do anything other than dock the camera. I know how easy this is, because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB card for our daughter's Pre-School for the teachers to use. As for taking pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and have taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. At least with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones and then re-take the ones that did not work. Brad Waller -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras I have what is probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next room. Craig E. <>
[Chevelle-List] digital cameras
I have what is probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next room. Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] Restoration Shops
Well, if it were me, I'd get out the yellow pages and look up a BUSINESS attorney. Not a slip & fall guy, not a divorce and reckless driving guy, but a business lawyer. There will not be many in town that specialize in business and corporate law but the ones that do are usually pretty heads-up guys/gals. They almost never work this stuff on contingency, but a good one WILL get you results and will get enough to pay his fees. Remember that the business law world is very "mature". That means they all know the way the system works and they all know the system is pretty fair, all things said & done. You'll be able to tell if you have a good one by the advice he gives you. If you hear something that sounds too good to be true, chances are it is. Lastly, make sure your expectations are reasonable. You are not going to get a free restoration out of this no matter how PO'ed you are. You're not even going to get "craftsmanship" or even have all the dust and dirt cleaned up. You're going to get the same kind of work that the judge gets on his Caddy when somebody bends his fender in the parking lot. So, it's important to look at your situation like any "reasonable" person would and decide if you really got screwed or the guy just did a mediocre job. It is important to understand that non-criminal matters only have one "remedy": Money. What happens in arbitration and in court is "reasonable" men and women decide who should get how much money and then they figure out which laws support that decision. You can't force someone to do anything except compensate you for losses you can document...there ain't no "Pain & Suffering". It's all about the hard dollars, no more, no less. And remember that anytime you call an attorney you are about to burn a bridge. Personally, I make sure that I never mention the word unless there is absolutely no other recourse. When that happens, I don't threaten to call my lawyer, I DO call him (and pay the $175 an hour bill). I know I'm not being very supportive here, but I've been down this path a few times and this is what I've learned. A genuine legal dispute is expensive and painful and very, very unpleasant, even when you win. craig e. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Crazy RustySent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 12:35 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Restoration Shops Does anyone know of any good restoration shops in Washington State? I recently had my vehicle worked on at Buffalo Restorations (www.autorestorations.com) in Puyallup, WA. I had been rear-ended on a freeway and heard that they had a pretty good reputation for restorations. I took my vehicle there, I showed them all of the damaged areas (front end, left quarter panel, seat, and front left fender) had them check it out and give me a rough estimate and then went back to the insurance company for the check. After some haggling with the insurance, I got the money and got them rolling on it. The original estimate was for about 3500 or so. After awhile they needed a supplement of about $1100 and then another supplement of $2200 or so. The total from the insurance company came to about 7000 when everything was said in done. After days of them telling me the car would be done the next day (that went on for over a week), I was finally able to go pick up the car. I did a quick check on some things before I left; found one or two items and mentioned them to the shop manager. A few days later I noticed a few more things, and a week after that I noticed a few more… and then last week I noticed a hell of a lot more. Pretty soon I found that after I got my car back, it had more problems then before I took it in. I took it in, basically, to get the frame pulled and the damage caused by the accident repaired. Got it back with the rear bumper bent and missing parts, the dash lights not working, reverse lamps cut out, front bumper bent downwards and smashed in, primer sprayed on my rear window, windshield jug melted, the left rear marker bezel broken, the molding on the left rear fender gone, the seat frame broken, the rear defroster not working, package tray warped, more mold then 2yr old cheese, some type of dust (sanding dust?) EVERYWHERE, and, to top it all off, when they repainted the car they didn’t ask me what color it was, they assumed it was a certain color and then painted it. Now, I am young and I am inexperienced in having others work on my car. I also don’t know a hell of a lot about the car in the first place. So in addition to my first question, is there anything I should have done differently? Did I ASK to have the shop screw me? In my business (IT) you
RE: [Chevelle-List] 69 El Camino update
I noticed Clint mentioned how paint was such a priority. I have to confess, I accepted some flaws in my car to get one with stellar body work and excellent paint. There are SO many guys in the paint & body business that have been sniffing fumes too long or, as Clint pointed out, on the insurance gravy train. A couple years ago, I asked a local shop to put a trunk pan in a '72 Chevelle I had at the time and he laughed. He would not even LOOK at it, let alone bother giving me a quote. Really - he would not even look at the car! Boy, I'm in the wrong business... -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 3:16 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 69 El Camino update He's a good guy. He's just having a rough time. Bad economy, a few customers screwed him, one guy died owing him a ton of money, etc. I have no ill feelings, but I still at least need it to come home with paint on it. I can do the other work myself, but I didn't spend all this money for it to end up being my first home-made paint job, and if I have to find another guy while it's in primer, I'm going to get reamed. Keep your fingers crossed that it comes out well. John Nasta - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Chevelle-List] Steering Box Rebuild
Larry, I'd like a copy: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks much. Craig E. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of RMilkiewiczSent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 10:46 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Steering Box Rebuild Larry, some time ago I sent several people on the list an article on rebuilding the Saginaw steering box. I still have it on my drive. Would you like a copy? It's 4 pages. Rich - Original Message - From: Larry Butler To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 10:47 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Steering Box Rebuild I have a '72 El Camino with power steering. I am in the process of rebuilding the front end. While pulling the center link I noticed a lot of power steering fluid leaking down the pitman arm. I suspect the 31 year old pitman shaft seal on the steering box is leaking. Question: I can't seem to find literature on how to rebuild the steering box. Has anyone out there rebuilt a steering box? What is involved? Is it better to have it rebuilt? I suppose there are rebuild kits, but I am worried about tools. I don't have a machine shop. I got a quote from a local shop $180 to rebuild it (in California labor is high). Thanks, Larry
[Chevelle-List] Chevelle dash question
I just busted a guy's chops on ebay for selling a Monte dash with the woodgrain panel as an SS Chevelle dash. He told me that the woodgrain panel was an option on Chevelles. Does anyone know if the woodgrain overlay was an option on these cars??? If I gave him a rash of crap and was wrong I'll have to apologize... Craig E. <>
RE: [Chevelle-List] My ride.
I just checked out your site. Beautiful Impala. I have one question tho' - how did you wreck so many vehicles??? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dan McIntoshSent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 7:36 AMTo: impala list; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] My ride. Got my 64 Impala sitting on its own 4 wheels again yesterday!!! It sits 3.75 inches from the floor when its dropped looks like its about 30 feet long sitting like this... cool, just excited and wanted to share... take it easy... Dan McIntoshBagged 64 Impala SSwww.alloldchevy.com