Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Gmail]

Isotemp just introduced a new line of water heaters. Plastic outside but 
retained their dependable stainless tank. Reasonable price. I'm going to put 
one of the small ones in Touché' in the next year or two. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 10, 2014, at 12:53 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one (I'm 
> not feeling the "sun shower" in the cockpit will fly with my soon to be 16 yr 
> old daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat actually has DOOR on 
> the head rather than the current flimsy curtain)
> 
> I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and anticipate 
> that my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if ever, plug in at a 
> marina.  As such I wonder if I can just get a heat exchanger and pressure 
> tank for hot water rather than buying a 120V hot water heater.
> 
> Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged unit?
> 
> Thoughts?
> Mark
> 
> 
> -
>  Dr. Mark Bodnar
> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
> Bedford Chiropractic
> -
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
>> On 09/02/2014 5:41 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
>> I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater,
>> 120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about 14" x
>> 14" x 19" tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see them
>> listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get
>> one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under
>> the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for
>> storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it within
>> 18" of the pressure water pump on my boat.
>> 
>> Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters
>> and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water
>> system.
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
>> Anderson
>> Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
>> 
>> Hey fellow C&C 32 owners,
>> 
>> I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
>> couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
>> bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
>> locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
>> please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
>> would be most appreciated!
>> 
>> Tom Anderson
>> C&C32 Nonpareil
>> Marblehead, MA
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Re: Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power

[Gmail]

You need a selector switch to isolate the inverter from shore power. If you 
connect the output of the inverter to your receptacles and then hook them to 
shore power, you will likely destroy the inverter. 

Dennis C.
Touché' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Daniel Sheer  wrote:
> 
> Can I connect the outlet of the inverter to the shore power inlet socket 
> (using an adapter of course)? I don't see why this would be a problem, but 
> what do I know. Even if I left the converter on it would just waste power, I 
> think. The advantage, of course, is that all of the AC outlets on the boat 
> would go live.
> 
> Thanks for advice.
> 
> Dan
> 
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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Gmail]

Ditto.  Shouldn't be that difficult. 

For most pumps, I just grab the impeller either side of the shaft with needle 
nose pliers, wiggle the thing while pulling. Most just come right out. When 
replacing, put a little lube on the vanes and shove it in. 

The vanes will assume the proper bend after a few rotations. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 10:13 AM, Wwadjourn  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>Don't over think this, really.  Get some needle nose pliers (ones with 
> curved nose great) and a small phillips screwdiver.  Put the screwdiver on 
> the center drive shaft and apply enough inward pressure to counteract your 
> pulling on the impeller.  You should have no problem.  
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star,
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Sent: Sun, Mar 23, 2014 11:38 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
> 
> Hi Swight- This sounds like something I don’t want to have happen.  I gather 
> that if I pull with pliers, it might happen?  So I really need an impeller 
> puller?  Dave
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:00 AM, dwight  wrote:
>> 
>> David
>>  
>> What water pump.  I have a Sherwood pump on mu Universal M4-30 and I need to 
>> be very careful when pulling the impellor off the shaft not to disengage the 
>> impellor drive shaft out altogether…if I do that the job of impellor 
>> replacement instantaneously becomes a much bigger job.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Knecht
>> Sent: March 23, 2014 9:49 AM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list
>> Subject: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller
>>  
>> I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and difficulty 
>> removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear puller to remove 
>> it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that there was very little space 
>> between the back of the impeller and the housing of the water pump, so I 
>> could not get the arms of the puller to grab anything.  The arms on the one 
>> I bought are quite thick.  Do I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave
>>  
>>  
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>>  
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> 
> David Knecht, Ph.D.
> Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
> Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> U-3125
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> University of Connecticut
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 860-486-4331 (fax)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wiring

[Gmail]

About the only differences between using duplex vs primary are aesthetics, 
protection and heat rejection. 

Duplex will be better protected from chafe and damage. 

However, Once you calculate the recommended wire size for primary wire, 
increase it one size for duplex wire because it will run hotter in the sheath. 

I routinely strip a single wire out of duplex when I need it. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 2:07 PM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Blue Sea has a circuit wizard app tohelp size   wires.  
> 
>> On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> When our boats were built, that was the accepted wiring practice. Fuses were 
>> in our houses along with left over knob and tube wiring. Thank goodness 
>> those days are gone. 
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 15:34, "dwight"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> OK Rich, so why are the electrical system components on my boat almost 
>>> exclusively supplied with 2 individual wires…I am quite certain the boat 
>>> came from the factory that way as very few circuits have as yet to be 
>>> rewired…hell I still got fuses…a sign of the times maybe or better duplex 
>>> wire nowadays…seems to me that manufactures might go the less expensive 
>>> route, especially if it were equally good so why don’t I have duplex wires?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
>>> Knowles
>>> Sent: March 23, 2014 3:14 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> No matter what the application, the size/gauge of wire is a function of 
>>> distance and current draw. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Our very own web site, thank you Stu, has all the info you need to 
>>> determine wire size. Remember distance is the return journey, not just one 
>>> way. See:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm
>>> 
>>> Rich
>>> 
>>> 
 On Mar 23, 2014, at 14:36, Chuck S  wrote:
 David,
 
 Each application may require a different kind of wire.  The Monitor wire 
 is probably small current flow, 16 gauge or smaller like lampcord.  The 
 solar panel probably requires heavier wire, # 4 or larger like jumper 
 cables?  I'd follow the manufacturer's recs and buy that type, a little 
 longer than estimated. 
 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Running a water-cooled engine (diesel or gasoline) at other than the 
designed temperature with the specified thermostat or thermostats is 
VERY bad for the engine and will shorten it's life in addition to 
causing reliability and other issues. The engineers did not add 
thermostats for their entertainment value.


Bill Bina


On 5/22/2014 12:53 AM, via CnC-List wrote:

I have the same engine in my LF38 which was converted to fwc by the previous 
owner. When I went to replace the thermostats I found there were none 
installed. The engine runs a 150 degrees at cruising speed with no stats, it 
does take a  while to reach it though.

Bill
 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.

Josh Muckley
1989 C&C 37+
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD
On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:


Hi,

I am converting Yanmar 3QM30 raw water cooling system into a fresh water
cooling system with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger.  The current thermostat is
Yanmar part number 105582-49200.The fresh water thermostat listed for
the 3QM30F looks like a completely different size thermostat.Does
anyone know the Yanmar part number for a fresh water (i.e. higher
temperature) thermostat which will fit a raw water 3QM30 system?

Thanks for any help.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That's the Flying Wasp from Caddyshack! LOL

Bill Bina
On 5/22/2014 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Got love this one:



Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Strange HIN, can anyone clarify

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

All boats manufactured after 1972 have the HIN on the upper starboard of 
the transom. Accept no substitutes! If the HIN is not there, I would 
slow down and investigate before going any further. As far as I know, 
C&C always had the HIN located in other spots as "backup". Mine has it 
embossed on the interior liner on the surface that is exposed when I 
lift up the seat of the port settee. For all I know there are others I 
have not stumbled upon. Maybe the surveyor mixed up some of his notes 
when he got back to the office to write his final reports. I'm not sure 
I would rely on a seller supplied survey, either. I think I may be 
hearing the faint sound of a warning bell or two, here. The buyer will 
need a new survey with correct numbers to get insurance and/or financing 
anyway.


Bill Bina


On 5/30/2014 9:38 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
A friend is looking at a 1974 30-1 in Beaufort, NC. The seller gave us 
a copy of a recent survey of the boat.


On the survey the hull number is listed as "300116" which is probably 
taken from the metal plate in the cockpit. Model 30. Hull #116. Makes 
sense.


But the HIN shown for the boat is MDZ45139G473, which seems all wrong. 
For one thing, the date would make this a 73 model not a 74. And MDZ 
is the manufacturer code for a home made boat built in Maryland.


Can anyone help me clarify what appears to be an error or typo in the 
survey? Does anyone her have a HIN like this.?


Rick brass

Sent from my iPad



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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Too bad the cove stripe is so blurred. That would provide a definitive 
answer.


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.

Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
  Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
  
  Has a Cape Dory 25 look

  but not 100% sure.
  
  Dennis C.
  
  
  On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at

  8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
  Just saw this lovely little

  sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
  
  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co

m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
  
  
  Thanks, Eric

  Cat's Paw
  C&C
  35 Mk II
  Mattapoisett, MA
  
  
  
  


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina
On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.

Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
  Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
  
  Has a Cape Dory 25 look

  but not 100% sure.
  
  Dennis C.
  
  
  On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at

  8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
  Just saw this lovely little

  sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
  
  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co

m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
  
  
  Thanks, Eric

  Cat's Paw
  C&C
  35 Mk II
  Mattapoisett, MA
  
  
  
  
  


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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast - now compass oil

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Whale oil will also work. :-)

Bill Bina
On 6/5/2014 1:41 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
West Marine does sell it .. in the States, but not in Canada. I called 
the local chandleries and no one can get it. So I think I have to 
stick to light mineral oil. Where does one find light mineral oil?


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



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Stus-List Raymarine c97

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I'm starting to research my next chartplotter. I've always bought Garmin 
beginning with a gpsmap76s, through a gpsmap276c, to my present 
gpsmap526. I do not want anything with a touch screen. I've used them 
and hate them. I want physical buttons. So far, the front runner seems 
to be the Raymarine C97 with built in sonar capability, and included 
lighthouse vector charts. I like the idea that this unit will also 
accept input from Raymarine's digital RADAR antenna. I have an aging 
Furuno Radar, and I plan to replace it within the next couple of years. 
Digital, with it's low power consumption and enhanced close-up abilities 
seems like the way to go for coastal sailing.


So, my questions is, has anyone else had experience using a Raymarine C97?

Thanks for any input,
Bill Bina
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Re: Stus-List De-registering re-registering

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGuard/VesselByID.html

My guess is that the US documentation is long expired. It requires 
annual renewal to keep it active.


Bill Bina

On 6/17/2014 12:13 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:

I know this topic has been covered in the past, so bear with me.

My boat was exported to the US possibly as early as the date of manufacture, 
then received a Documentation number (evidenced by a carved sign in the 
forepeak starting with the letters DOC and mentioning a tonnage.  No MASTER 
BUILDER's certificate

Then around 1988, sustained such substantial damage in the starboard stern 
quarter that the HIN was removed as part of the repair.

Then in 1990, it was exported to Canada where it was licenced and we are we 
believe the 3rd owner in Canada since 2001.

Now, I want to register this vessel and want to know from the US listers, how 
can I confirm with the US authorities that it was de-registered in the US?  I 
would need an archive copy, so the Canadian authorities are assured it isn't 
registered in a foreign country.

I recall looking up a web site which was rather opaque, so any help would be 
appreciated.

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
+1 (416) 203-9858 Office
+1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
www.airsensing.com




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Re: Stus-List 4th of July

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have had problems with multiple depthsounders of different brands and 
types when the motor is running for years. I found that turning on 3 or 
4 interior incandescent lights results in a working depth sounder. Try it.


Bill Bina


On 6/19/2014 3:28 PM, Chris Price via CnC-List wrote:
Joe, you should go to Swan Creek for the Rock Hall fireworks on the 
3rd and then Greys Inn Creek! One year we did Swan Creek, St. Michaels 
Baltimore and Gibson Island and managed to catch the shows each night. 
This year we're planning to be in Solomon's for the 4th. We'll have to 
get together at Reed Creek one weekend with Chuck Schaefer so he can 
show me the way in. Depth sounder stops working when I start the 
motor. Haven't run aground yet but it's only a matter of time.


Chris Price
Pradel

P.S are you in charge of the Corsica Race again? Had fun last year.





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Re: Stus-List Teak

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

This can only be discerned on a case by case basis. I once bought a very 
battered, badly painted, desk that no one wanted, because I looked 
underneath and inside with the drawers removed and discovered that the 
executive sized $25 desk was SOLID walnut. Very often people really 
don't know what they are selling. It could be veneer, or plastic 
laminate, or it could be a photographic overlay on particleboard. It 
could also be some other wood stained "teak color". Sometime you DO get 
lucky, but don't count on it.


Bill Bina



On 6/25/2014 2:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All. Old boat ownership related...

I've been searching the local classifieds for a piece of furniture for 
my sister and I keep noticing "teak" furniture. Some of it is really 
cheap, today I found a rather large solid looking shelf/cabinet thing 
that's going free... "teak".


I'm probably just dreaming that these people have actual solid teak 
furniture, right? Is old "teak" furniture a good source for teak? Or 
is the word "teak" when discussing furniture just another word for veneer?


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



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Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

According to Raymarine documentation, the E7 operating voltage range is 
10.2 - 15.6 volts.


Bill Bina



On 7/7/2014 12:18 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:

My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins 
diesel).  Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their 
charge well.  But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine.  None 
of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard 
Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter.  Apparently the E7 demands a higher 
voltage to keep from crashing.
 Best way to deal with this?  Others must have a similar problem.  I could 
put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a 
diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage 
to the E7 when the main voltage drops.  But I bet there is a better solution. 
Suggestions welcome!

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Gear shift

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Were there any diesel powered British sports cars? :-)

Bill Bina

On 7/7/2014 3:23 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote:
I think this discussion has been exhausted numerous times before on 
numerous forums.




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Re: Stus-List Swageless lifeline system

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.suncorstainless.com/quick-attachtrade

You can download the catalog from Suncor in case Defender doesn't stock 
the exact part or parts you need.


I used this swageless system when I re-did my lifelines. They are very 
easy to use, and very secure for lifeline use. I would not use them for 
standing rigging, which requires far greater tension. I did use them to 
make a new babystay, because I wanted a pelican hook at the base, I 
needed a way to quickly and easily release the babystay when folding or 
unfolding my portabote on the foredeck!


Defender carries the parts and also complete kits for retail:

http://search.defender.com/?expression=suncor&s=1

Bill Bina


On 7/8/2014 9:48 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:

What wire is used for lifelines?  7 x 19?  Type 316?
Is it possible to find fittings that match the old latches from a previous 
swaged installation?

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
+1 (416) 203-9858 Office
+1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
www.airsensing.com

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Re: Stus-List Tiller

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom 
build this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the 
places that either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address 
after I sent them a photo of what it was I needed.


Obviously, you could replace the tiller with a more conventinal one of 
the correct width, using conventional metal sideplates to attach it to 
the rudder, but that all wood wishbone tiller is a styling hallmark of 
the 27-5. The custom builders that did respond all said that they could 
make one of the right dimensions with metal sideplates that would "work".


Bill Bina


On 7/9/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap.  
http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php.  Jerry. C&C 27v.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List re Atomic 4 (Indigo)

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

NEVER lock or latch a propane locker! Repeat, NEVER. If the tank 
explodes you want the force to blow upwards through the freely opening 
hatch. If it is latched or locked, the force will blow downward through 
the bottom of your boat. I don't think legal propane lockers even have a 
latch. That is probably a code violation.


Bill Bina


On 7/9/2014 12:06 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:

Jon,

If people used the same due dilligence with their gas engines that you 
do with propane this would not be an issue.


I have all the propane equipment you do and still turn off the gas at 
the tank when I'm done cooking. My propane locker has a pad lock on 
it, /rule on the boat is/; Lock open, gas on, lock closed, gas off. 
 When I shut down the stove I step outside and shut the valve at the 
tank and close the pad lock.




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Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Up here in New England, what you hit when you run aground is often a 
boulder or a rock ledge, not soft forgiving Chesapeake mud! For that 
reason, I would never even consider a boat that drew over 5 feet. Too 
many places I could not visit at all, and too many obstacles everywhere 
else.


Bill Bina


On 7/11/2014 11:02 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


None of those boats could get close to my slip nor go many of the 
places I go. They would be aground in my slip, aground in the marina 
channel, aground in Swan Creek, aground in Kent Narrows, aground in 
Fog Cove, aground in Knapps Narrows, etc


Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

*From:*Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net]
*Sent:* Friday, July 11, 2014 10:39 AM
*To:* j...@dellabarba.com; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

FWIW, I notice deeper water exists on the Western Shore of the 
Chesapeake, while shallower waters are on the Eastern Shore.  A keel a 
foot deeper can lighten a 35ft boat by 1000 pounds which plays a 
bigger role in lighter winds, when racing.  Light displacement is not 
so important where it's windy or if you're motoring to gunkhole 
destinations more than sailing.


A deep fin protects the rudder, is shorter and thinner, and when you 
run aground, you slimply motor back out or spin her off.  The old Navy 
Luders Yawls drew 8ft.  The newer Navy 44 by Pedrick draw 7.25'.  
There are a few TP52s at Bert Jabin's yard that draw 10 or 12ft.  Just 
sayin.


Chuck
*/Resolute/*
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




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Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Between NYC and Newport R.I. (Long Island Sound, Fisher's Island Sound, 
and between the forks of Long Island)


Bill Bina

On 7/11/2014 11:17 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:

Bill,

Where in NE?   Up here in Buzzards Bay and surrounds I can count on 
one hand where I cant take my 7 1/2' draft.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)






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Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The issue is not sailing to places across deep water. The issue is where 
you can stop and visit. In the area I outlined, a 7.5 foot draft would 
eliminate probably something like 75% of the nicest anchorages. Maybe 
more. I have been sailing this area for over 50 years.


Bill Bina


On 7/11/2014 11:38 AM, Burt Stratton wrote:


My boat draws 5.5 feet. I'm not too worried about navigating in 
Narragansett Bay, over to the south side of the Cape or out to Block 
Island. I will probably avoid Woods hole for a number of reasons. Just 
need to pay attention as always.


Usually enough wind to get her well heeled over the thin spots J

Skip

Mary Jane

C&C 33 ¾ ton

Portsmouth, RI

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, July 11, 2014 11:29 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

Between NYC and Newport R.I. (Long Island Sound, Fisher's Island 
Sound, and between the forks of Long Island)


Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

How much overnight cruising do you do? Do you stop at marinas, or do you 
anchor out most of the time? Have you tried some of the nicer anchorages 
like Mattituck Inlet, or do you stick to the larger, more crowded 
anchorages?  I tend to think you might be sailing right past most of the 
best places with out even being aware of them. You are near the Thimble 
Islands. How much of them can you navigate besides the main anchorage, 
which is always crowded? Sure, you could sail to Pt Judith and anchor 
behind the breakwater with a 25 knot breeze stretching your rode like a 
violin string, but I can go up and into Pt Judith Pond a few minutes 
away, which is a beautiful and quiet jewel. :-)


Bill Bina

On 7/11/2014 11:49 AM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
6.5' of a 35-3 hasn't held me back from visiting those area (but I am 
often aground in my slip in Branford). The 3GM helps with that...


Tim
Mojito
Branford, CT

On Jul 11, 2014, at 11:28 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Between NYC and Newport R.I. (Long Island Sound, Fisher's Island 
Sound, and between the forks of Long Island)


Bill Bina

On 7/11/2014 11:17 AM, David via CnC-List wrote:

Bill,

Where in NE?   Up here in Buzzards Bay and surrounds I can count on 
one hand where I cant take my 7 1/2' draft.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)






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Stus-List Propane!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

When it comes to propane on board, you really need to follow all of the 
rules all of the time.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxm3uMy6MPI&feature=youtu.be

Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My 27 came new as an outboard boat, so I can't tell you much about 
converting. However, as far as which outboard motor to select, I have a 
very strong preference for the Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust model. Most 
outboards marketed for sailboats, are essentially a longshaft version of 
the manufacturer's regular motor. The Yamaha High Thrust, however, spins 
a big, deep pitched, propeller at lower speeds. It's like having your 
own personal tugboat  along. In calm conditions, it will push the boat 
near hull speed at less than quarter throttle. You can carry on a 
conversation in the cockpit without raising your voice. When the going 
gets tough, the difference in motors comes down to how fast you recover 
after being slowed or stopped by waves. You want low end grunt, not a 
tiny whizzer of a prop spinning uselessly at high revs. I've been on 
plenty of boats with other outboards, and none of them really are in the 
same league as far as I'm concerned.


Bill Bina


On 8/4/2014 1:28 PM, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List wrote:

My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C & C 27, 
which we’ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from its original 
(1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like this, advice, or 
suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig and sails, but the A4 
engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is not reliable. Every year 
we’ve been scuppered, and I want reliability without the cost of a new inboard… 
hence the idea to try the outboard route. Thoughts?
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Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

1) I am not a fair weather sailor, and I do not find cavitation to be 
much of a problem, even in bad weather. I have seen many outboard 
installations that mounted the bracket and the motor too high. Garelick 
makes a LOT of models, and gives all dimensions including range of 
travel. Careful planning affects the outcome of any project. Speedy 
little whizzy props on regular long shaft outboards may have more of an 
issue with cavitation. My prop rarely comes out of the water, except in 
very active following seas, and since it is spinning slower, it doesn't 
cause the motor to rev to to the moon when it does.


2) Practicality can often trump aesthetics. I would rather see an 
outboard on a sailboat than SeaRay style stainless steel handrails 
glaring in the sun. I  could see aesthetics of an outboard possibly 
being an issue on a Hinckley B-40, but not on a C&C 27.


3) The entire effort to reinforce the transom consists of a 3/4 inch 
plywood backing plate and fender washers, and a 1 inch thick pad on the 
exterior made of either starboard or plywood. I changed the original 
plywood for Starboard so I would never have to worry about deterioration 
again in my lifetime. The outboard and bracket weighs probably less than 
half what any inboard weighs, so motion and balance is not adversly 
affected. She sits on her lines.


4) WHAT outboard you pick makes all the difference. My 4 stroke Yamaha 
is as reliable as my car. The high thrust option gives me the TYPE of 
thrust a sailboat needs to be efficient. Small, frantically fast 
propellers may be fine for speed boats, but displacement hulls want low 
end grunt, which means a huge, slow spinning prop. No cavitation is just 
one of the benefits. Fuel efficiancy is another. If you like sailing in 
light air, you are much better off with the prop OUT OF THE WATER, and 
not dragging down your forward progress. Tie a small bucket on a rope 
and toss it overboard while doing 3 or 4 knots, and get an idea of what 
that underwater anchor is doing to sailing performance. There is a 
reason why the outboard version of the boat has a lower PHRF rating than 
the inboard. Oh, yes, the C&C 27 was available new with either an 
inboard or and outboard. Arguments about it being designed only for an 
inboard are ill informed. My C&C 27 came from the factory with an outboard.


5) Raising and lowering. I have a small 4-1 vang with 1/4 inch line, 
between the outboard and the stern rail. My diminuative wife can easily 
raise the motor with one hand while drinking a cup of coffee with the 
other hand. The supposed difficulty of operating the controls has 
likewise been greatly exaggerated. Modern outboards have the gearshift, 
throttle and kill switch mounted on the long tiller within easy reach 
without hanging over the stern to reach them. Being able to use the 
outboard as a stern thruster or to pivot the boat on it's axis is a nice 
benefit. I can turn around in a fairway without a series of backing 
maneuvers. I just turn the outboard to one side, and around I spin.


6) I used to obsess about having enough electricity. Between the 
outboard and a 20 watt solar panel with a genasun controller (MUST be 
genasun) and 2 AGM group 27 batteries, I never seem to go below 75% 
charge no matter what I do. I run a full compliment of VHF, 2 
gps/chartplotters, Depth, wind, and often RADAR. It's just not a 
problem. While the boat is at reast, the solar panel charges that last 
5-10% of capacity that no alternator ever charges.


I agree that this is probably about a $4k conversion, all in, if you do 
it yourself. You will have brand new everything.


Bill Bina
On 8/5/2014 2:26 AM, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List wrote:
First of all, thanks to everyone for your input. Much appreciated. 
I've not posted very often, but have lurked for years, and I respect 
the voices of the familiar.


I sail out of Vancouver, British Columbia, and most of the cruising we 
do is local, in the summer. We have islands right in our back yard 
(so, my home waters are totally protected), or we will cross Georgia 
Strait (20-25 nautical miles) to get to the very protected Gulf 
Islands on the east side of Vancouver Island. Last year we went north 
up Georgia Strait for 50 or 60 miles to Pender Harbour and crossed to 
Texada Island and back over 10 days or so. I've sailed and raced since 
I was a teen, and this part of the world, in the summer anyway, is 
usually pretty "Pacific". In general, we're /looking/ for breeze in 
the summer, not trying to shelter from too much (although that can 
happen, of course, in which case you hole up for a day or three and 
conduct scientific experiments on the efficacy of various single malt 
whiskeys); I bought a North light air gennaker the year we bought the 
boat, and thank goodness I did, because it's seen lots of use here in 
the Pacific SouthWest (as we Canadians refer to it); crossing the 
Strait is similar to coastal sailing where the C & C hull proves again

Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C Landfall 38 Sail Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.com

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I was cruising around Narragansett Bay last week and crossed wakes with 
the new C&C 30 One Design. Didn't look like it had a whole lot of 
headroom down below!


Bill Bina


On 8/19/2014 1:02 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

Danny,

I think you would find everything you are looking for in a 38 Landfall -except 
the swim platform. And as the long term owner of a regular 38, I'm happy with a 
swim ladder off the transom.

There is a very nice Landfall in my area that has just been reduced in price - 
to $27k. I was aboard her a couple of months ago to take a look for a friend 
who is boat shopping. This isn't a fixer upper. From what I saw, she could be 
taken to the Bahamas with just a bit of cleanup and a couple of practice sails 
to get familiar with the systems and make sure the maintenance was up to date.

She won't sail quite as well as your Viking 33 or my 38, or the 37 someone 
mentioned. But the build quality and the sailing qualities will be head and 
shoulders above the Jeanneu you mentioned.

And I know someone who would be glad to help you sail her back up the East 
Coast.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C%26C-Landfall-38-2498473/Washington/NC/United-States#.U_N-qmK9KK0

Rick Brass





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Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I heard she tilted her head and her brains ran out her ear. True story! :-)

Bill Bina
On 8/20/2014 11:39 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:
I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, 
but so far not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or 
grounding.

Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of crap?

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39 TM (1974)
 # 69)
HONEY
US12788
Savannah



On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms.
Gifford makes in her Sailing Totem  blog that "(C&C's) keels are
falling off!"


http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/

Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions,
distributed by her through various channels (Sailfeed, email,
f*book, etc.) is irresponsible and is the malady that leads to the
unfortunate afflictions behind Rebel Heart slander and other
unfortunate rumoring.


I would email, but I need to get back to work.


Kevin

Portland

30-2


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493

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Re: Stus-List Stus-clevis pin

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Bigger than 1/2 inch and smaller than 5/8... 9/16 inch?

http://www.amazon.com/CLEVIS-PIN-1-7-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000Y82RUY

Bill Bina

On 8/21/2014 1:47 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:
I have run into an unusual problem; I lost a clevis pin from the lower 
shroud, ("someone" didn't spread the cotter pin apart enough), and the 
pin vibrated out under sail; (that was pretty scary!); I thought 
replacing the pin would be easy, but I can't seem to find the part 
anywhere; the boat is a 1985 37 with the original rod rigging, (Navtec 
I assume); measuring the pin from the other shroud I get metric 
measurements at 1 1/2 MM diameter and 4 MM long; I have contacted 
several sources; (Defender, Rig Rite, Hayn and Navtec); all of whom 
tell me it shouldn't be metric but should be imperial measurement; 
however I tried a 1/2 inch diameter pin in there and it is much too 
small, and 5/8s is too large...I need help; can anyone steer me toward 
a source for the pin?  (PS there are no marine riggers or facilities 
in our area, we don't even have a West Marine!);

Many thanks
Richard
1985 37, CB Ohio River Mile 584;

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Stus-clevis pin

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

9/16 inch clevis pins are a little uncommon, but they do exist. APS also 
has them


http://www.apsltd.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=clevis+pins

Your other option is to drill out the fitting for the more common 5/8 
inch, but getting the correct size pin would be preferable.


Bill Bina

On 8/21/2014 1:47 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:
I have run into an unusual problem; I lost a clevis pin from the lower 
shroud, ("someone" didn't spread the cotter pin apart enough), and the 
pin vibrated out under sail; (that was pretty scary!); I thought 
replacing the pin would be easy, but I can't seem to find the part 
anywhere; the boat is a 1985 37 with the original rod rigging, (Navtec 
I assume); measuring the pin from the other shroud I get metric 
measurements at 1 1/2 MM diameter and 4 MM long; I have contacted 
several sources; (Defender, Rig Rite, Hayn and Navtec); all of whom 
tell me it shouldn't be metric but should be imperial measurement; 
however I tried a 1/2 inch diameter pin in there and it is much too 
small, and 5/8s is too large...I need help; can anyone steer me toward 
a source for the pin?  (PS there are no marine riggers or facilities 
in our area, we don't even have a West Marine!);

Many thanks
Richard
1985 37, CB Ohio River Mile 584;

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The information in the link applies to ALLboats made after 1972 in the 
U.S or Canada, regardless of manufacturer:


http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

Bill Bina


On 8/25/2014 9:02 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:


Is there a specific format to the 70s C&C hull numbers?

Mine is 330100874000 (the trailing zeros may be inserted by the state)

My assumption of course is that the first two digits are length and 
the 74 is the year of manufacture.


Skip



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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

C&C MIC changed when they opened the second plant in Middletown, RI. All 
C&C boats prior to that opening were MIC=CCY.  After the Middletown 
plant went into operation, Middletown became CCY, and Canadian C&C's 
switched to ZCC. The change occurred in February 1976. A 1974 boat, 
therefore would have CCY as the MIC code as it predates the Middletown 
plant opening.


Bill Bina


On 8/25/2014 9:32 AM, Burt Stratton wrote:


According to this site the MIC for C&C Yachts Ltd is ZCC.

This must not be my hull number but some other number used to identify 
the boat for the state. It is not my registration number. I'll have to 
go look for the correct number on the hull.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, August 25, 2014 9:13 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers

The information in the link applies to ALL boats made after 1972 in 
the U.S or Canada, regardless of manufacturer:


http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

Bill Bina

On 8/25/2014 9:02 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:

Is there a specific format to the 70s C&C hull numbers?

Mine is 330100874000 (the trailing zeros may be inserted by the state)

My assumption of course is that the first two digits are length
and the 74 is the year of manufacture.

Skip




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Re: Stus-List C&C oddities

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Not a C&C.

From the Documentation:

Ship Builder: MACOTTA CO OF CANADA LTD


Bill Bina

On 8/25/2014 12:03 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


A Corvette yawl???

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1969/C-%26-C-Corvette-2408266/Greenport/NY/United-States

I never knew C&C made metal boats.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1968/C%26C-Custom-Aluminum-Sloop-2710707/Fort-Myers/FL/United-States

*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C&C 35 MK I/*



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Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I just googled "C&C keels"

Guess what the number one hit was

Bill Bina
On 8/25/2014 3:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

I never got to read it - it was gone before I looked. I still think Sail needs 
to fact-check such obviously defamatory and WRONG statements.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally Bryant 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

Danny wrote:

Fk*n Wally...  That is hysterical!

Actually, I thought my comment would go to the poster before showing up on the 
blog site.  If they didn't have moderator screening before, I'm sure they do 
now.

She did say that if she could remove those words, she would.

It's unfortunate that with many of these blog sites, you can't go back and edit 
a blog statement.  Otherwise, I'm sure it would be fixed.

Oddly, I actually think I met her a few years back here in Mexico, during a 
late night crisis helping a guy with a dislocated hip get onto a Mexican Navy 
boat.  Perhaps it was someone else.

Oh well.  I'm not sure the lesson was learned.  The first time I learned it was 
before the WWW was invented, and there was this new thing called 'spam.'  I was 
hanging out on the ATM Usenet, (ATM was 'Asynchronous Transfer Mode' and had 
nothing to do with banking) and someone blasted the Usenet with an ad for 
Rogain or something similar.  I think I responded with 'Ef you baldy' and for 
ten years when you searched my name that was the first thing that popped up. 
So, it's unfortunate that her blog(s) remain unchanged.

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

In the "old days", Ferrari ignition keys were little more than a little 
metal rod. You could just as easily start a Ferrari using a large nail 
or a small phillips head screwdriver. When criticized for the lack of 
security, Enzo replied that anyone who could afford a Ferrari, could 
afford to replace it when it got stolen. His own personal car was a 
Fiat, as he felt they made more sense for general transportation. :-)


Bill Bina


On 8/26/2014 11:42 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:
Yanmar keys are just like Club Car golf carts keys. They are all the 
same. My dock neighbor has used my spare key off and on for years.


Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39 TM
HONEY
US 12788
Savannah





On Tue, Aug 26, 2014 at 9:35 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


After finding out (the same way you folks have) that the key is
easy to break and it is also easy to bust the switch. I
then replaced it for about $50 and then I found out that my
old key fit my new switch and, looking at some other Yanmar
switches and finding out they are all the same.which means
anyone with a screwdriver or any Yanmar key could start your
boatplus realizing that if the main switch (locked inside)
isn't on, nothing happens!
I replaced the expensive Yanmar key switch with a simple push/pull
switch. Now, if someone (me?) hits it with his/her feet, all it
does is turn off the electricity to the instruments, the engine
still runs.
Gary
- Original Message -

*From:* coltrek via CnC-List 
*To:* Jean-Francois J Rivard  ;
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent:* Monday, August 25, 2014 8:44 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition
switch?

I was able to get my broken key out with the broken piece and
a  little bit of superglue.
I did not want this to happen again, so I cut most of the
spare key off, drilled a little hole through it and put a
small ring  through it. Now, nothing sticks out, I just pull
the ring up to rotate it.

Bill

 Original message 
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Date:08/25/2014 6:49 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?

Yesterday, it was pretty sporty on the lake with winds in the
upper teens, my son was rushing from the deck to the cockpit
and kicked the engine start key /  broke it  as he stepped
over to come and take the wheel for a while..  I could not
find my spare key so I had to stick the broken half  back into
the slot to get the engine re-started.

Back at the marina in the evening, I tried to remove the
broken piece by prying  / pulling  it out with a variety of
small screwdrivers, drill bits. and other implements nothing
was working and it was getting late so I decided to take the
switch off to bring home and figure it out later.

That's when I found out  that I was very thankful for
thoughtful Yanmar engineers: There is a slot in the barrel
directly over the key's teeth.  All you need to do is stick a
small screwdriver in the slot and push the offending broken
piece out..

Brillant!

Outside of that it was a phenomenal day on the lake.  Probably
the best sail this year so far..

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia




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Re: Stus-List TAZ, Cutty

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Documentation for TAZ:



Bill Bina

On 9/5/2014 8:03 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:


Not sure about TAZ but you will see red C&C 36 named Stinger, that's 
my friend Kyle.  He is inside.


Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, September 04, 2014 12:39 PM
*To:* allenmi...@earthlink.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 
joel.aron...@gmail.com

*Subject:* Stus-List TAZ

Hi I'm out at cuttyhunk and I see a c&c named TAZ anchored here.  Is 
that someone from the list?


What a beautiful day!

Danny

Lolita

Viking 33

From my Android phone


 Original message 
From: allen via CnC-List >

Date: 09/04/2014 11:24 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Joel Aronson >,cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

 I replaced the overhead fluorescent lights with LEDs of the same form 
factor.  Reused the existing backing and fittings. Cheap, fast, worked 
great.  Also replaced the cabin sole lights with small LEDs.


Still assessing head sink lamp.  Probably replace with a red/white LED 
surface mount unit.


Out in the cockpit, I moved the AC shore power receptacle to the 
outside of the splash guard aft of the winch and placed an outdoor 
shower in the former location.  It's easier to attach dockside AC and 
the shower is accessible when you return from swimming after climbing 
the ladder. Also nice for cooling off on those really hot sails.


Allen Miles

Septima 30-2

Hampton, VA

*From:*Joel Aronson via CnC-List 

*Sent:*Monday, September 01, 2014 4:15 PM

*To:*Danny Haughey  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 



*Subject:*Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

I mounted mine on plywood.

Joel

On Monday, September 1, 2014, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover?

-- Original Message --
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List >
To: RPH mailto:rph2m...@yahoo.com>>, "C&C List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700

Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 
and couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave 
up and stuck the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.


I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more 
easily connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we 
do quite often, especially after dark in winter.


I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent 
fixtures located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear 
what you've done for switching if it was the latter.


It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

Best,
Kevin

Sent from my Tablet

On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, "RPH via CnC-List" > wrote:


I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be 
shamed by the (obvious) answer.


Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips 
in the overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are 
like these: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865


Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath 
the cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure.


The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I 
tried the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" 
tape. Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have 
detached.


I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now 
wondering whether there is something in the resin that is making this 
a hopeless exercise.


Any tips or suggestions?


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--
Joel
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The main functions the same as a line going from the masthead to the end 
of the boom. The mainsheet and vang pulling that structure downward act 
on that to pull the mast rearward, or at least apply pressure in that 
direction.


I sometimes sail with just the Genoa, but I do apply a little tension to 
the backstay as a precaution. I also never move the boat anywhere, even 
under power, without having both the main and genoa (as well as the 
anchor) ready to deploy on short notice if the need arises. I single 
hand most of the time, so planning ahead is always a big priority.


Bill Bina

On 9/19/2014 1:11 PM, Greg Arnold via CnC-List wrote:
I remember reading somewhere years ago that the main helps stabilize 
the rig.   Not sure exactly what that means, but every time you fall 
off a wave the rig vibrates.  If you have the main up, it probably 
prevents some of the vibration.   That might be a factor if you have a 
fragile rig.



On 9/19/2014 9:58 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
I am afraid that the idea of the "uneven loading on the rig" is 
another myth.
Your rig (not the rigging, but the boat, as a whole) is unbalanced. 
How much, it depends on the size and shape of your jib.
I think the problem stems from the fact that in lighter winds, you 
want to have as much sail as you can or you are not moving. And in 
the strong winds, you might be unbalanced to the point that it is 
difficult to steer (the boat would have a tendency to bear off). You 
may also find it to be difficult to tack, especially in waves.

But if any of those does not wear _you_ off, the boat would be fine.
Marek
*From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Friday, September 19, 2014 12:00 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Stus-List sailing under jib alone
All,
Earlier this week I went out for a lazy sail after work.  Unfurled 
the jib in 10 knots of wind and decided I was too lazy to remove the 
main cover and hoist the main.
I've read that sailing under only jib is bad because it places an 
uneven load on the rigging.  Seems to me that the load is minimal in 
light air and the total load is a lot less under one sail.

Thoughts?
Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Which company manufactures a battery is absolutely no indication of 
quality. They build to whatever specs and price point are demanded by 
the customer. Sears and Walmart batteries off the same assembly line are 
not the same battery. You can imagine what the specs and price point 
considerations are for Walmart batteries. Also understand that part of 
the "cost" of any battery is the carefully calculated cost of providing 
the warrantee. An long warrantee is just more money that was not spent 
on the quality of the battery itself. Some places have batteries that 
are internally identical, but come labled as 12 month, 36  month or 60 
month batteries. The difference between these batteries is the price of 
the warrantee and nothing else. This is not some dark secret that I am 
revealing for the first time to the world.


"Dual Purpose" batteries should never be used where a deep cycle battery 
is called for. They are not really deep cycle as far as tolerating 
repeated discharge-charge cycles. The only exception is that Deep Cycle 
AGM batteries can be used for starting, as they have low internal 
resistance, and are not strained in the least by starting a small diesel 
engine. The other advantage of AGM is they charge faster and easier. 
That is also due to their lower internal resistance.


Bill Bina


On 10/1/2014 8:39 AM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List wrote:
I used to be a big fan of Sears Diehard batteries. The last set I had 
was junk. They only lasted three years and didn't perform that well, 
needing more frequent charging than the replacement pair. (I bought 
these from my marina; Interstate marine batteries, I think.)



Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



-Original Message- From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2014 11:22 PM
To: Wally Bryant ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

Wal,

What you say is perfectly true, but...

There are deminishingly few battery manufacturers in the US because of 
the impacts of environmental and OSHA regulations. And for the past 
decade or so Walmart batteries have been made by Globe Battery Div of 
Johnson Controls. They also make batteries for Interstate, NAPA, and 
the Sears Die Hard, among others.


Walmart and Sam's Club offer very good pricing, the lowest in my area, 
and good quality. The 115AH group 27 deep cycle batteries in my 38 
were installed in 2006 and are still going strong. ( the batteries in 
my 25 were bought in 2003 and may need to be replaced soon on general 
principles) They were rated at 25AH more than the 27 deep cycles from 
West Marine, and cost less than half as much. Plus they had a 5 year 
warranty instead of 12 months.


My experience with deep cycle batteries from Walmart has been very 
good, and I have no qualms about recommending them.


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 30, 2014, at 20:04, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 wrote:


And I don't want to sound cynical, but WalMart doesn't manufacture 
anything.  With the purchasing power that they have, they can dictate 
terms to any supplier.  And they do.  The battery that you get from 
WalMart or Sam's Club this year can be entirely different from the 
battery you'll get next year. It might look the same and have the 
same label...


Wal

you wrote:

Consumer Reports rated the Walmart batteries very highly.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement- quick-attach fittings

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Swaged fittings are not comparable to these fittings. A swaged fitting 
has a huge amount of surface area contact between fitting and wire 
compared to the quick-attach. There is even a known reliability 
difference between machine swaged and hand swaged that strongly favors 
machine swaged.


I tightened the cones plenty. In fact, over tightening may have been 
part of the issue.There is a reason why Suncor only markets these for 
lifelines and other relatively light duty applications. I'm obviously 
not the only one who experienced problems. Ignore the manufacturers 
advice at your own peril. As I said, I've seen the problem first hand.


Ask Brion Toss if you need another opinion! :-)

Bill Bina


On 10/24/2014 7:30 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:


Bill,

Swaged fittings don't spread the wires to distribute the load either.  
It sounds like maybe you didn't tighten the cones enough.  I did some 
destructive testing and had to physically beat the fitting apart to 
get the wedges separated from the cone.


Josh

On Oct 24, 2014 6:22 AM, "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily.
Happened on my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let
off the backstay, the previously firmly tightened babystay was
flopping around. The wire goes straight into the fitting with no
bends or "spread out" of the strands like the sta-lok. What makes
them so easy to use, also makes them prone to letting the cable
move, or even pull out.

Bill Bina


On 10/23/2014 11:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I looked it up, the quick attach fittings are no longer
advised for standing rigging though I can't understand why.
And I was wrong they won't work with rod but WILL work with
all other types of wire.

Josh



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It is also important to consider mounting height when calculating how 
far away something can be seen. You lose distance due to curvature of 
the earth. Two 6 foot tall men standing on shores 6 miles across from 
each other cannot see each others heads, even without throwing even an 
inch of wave height into the mix. The "high spot" between them is only 3 
miles from their respective vantage point. :-)


Bill Bina

On 10/31/2014 9:50 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


FYI -- the running lights standard on the 1973 35 MK I, if you can 
find them, are sold as "not approved for new construction", so I think 
they do not meet modern standards either. I long ago switched to an 
Aquasignal 25 mounted on the pulpit which is MUCH more visible.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C&C 35 MK I/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, October 31, 2014 5:48 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

Yes, you must comply with the regulations. NO, if you modify your 
existing light by changing from the original bulb as supplied with the 
fixture, it is no longer  legally CERTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER as 
being in compliance. If you end up in court, you will have the burden 
of proving that the light you were using complied with the 
regulations. It will no longer be accepted as complying simply by 
virtue of being certified. It doesn't matter at all if your light now 
exceeds the requirements by 2 or 3 times the visibility. It is no 
longer CERTIFIED. People can try and make this as complicated and 
convoluted as they like, but the facts don't care. Meeting the 
requirements is not the same thing as CERTIFIED as meeting the 
requirements.


Bill Bina

On 10/31/2014 12:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You will find it in
Annex I of the COLREGS, which you are required to have on your
boat if you have a Captain's License. And which you probably have
on you boat in any event.

33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each self-propelled vessel 12
meters (39.4') or more in length shall carry on board and maintain
for ready reference a copy of the Inland Navigation Rules.

As has been pointed out before, a navigation light is certified by
the light manufacturer to comply with the USCG requirements. IF
YOU MANUFACTURE A BOAT FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU MAY ONLY USE A
CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are a boat owner, or building a
boat for your own use, you can use any lighting device or bulb you
chose, provided that the lights meet the requirements of COLREGS
RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23 (light patterns).

Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED anchor lights
that plug into a cigarette lighter, or a battery operated Perko
anchor light you keep as a backup. Both meet COLREGS 22 for boats
less than 39 feet, but neither are certified by the manufacturer.
At least mine aren't marked as certified.

I can find no direct reference to the nav lights required in 46CFR
Subchapter C covering uninspected passenger vessels of less than
100 tons carrying 6 or fewer passengers, other than the
requirement to comply with COLREGS 22 & 23.

For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 tons carrying 100
or fewer passengers, 46CFR Subchapter T paragraph 183.420 says:
All vessels must have navigation lights that are in compliance
with the applicable sections of the International and Inland
Navigation rules, except that a vessel of more than 198 meters
(65') in length must also have navigation lights that meet UL 1104
"Standards for Marine Navigation Lights" or other standard
specified by the Commandant.

Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply with the light
visibility and patterns specified in the COLREGS, and you must
have a copy of the current COLREGS aboard.

If you don't have a captain's license and you boat is less than 12
meters you must comply with the COLREGS.

And if the boat is over 12 meters you need to comply and carry a
copy of the COLREGS.

I could not find anything in the 2000+ pages of Federal Regulation
I got while obtaining my Masters License that indicates you need
to use a certified light, use the same type of bulb, or buy the
same bulb used in building your boat - but you must comply with
COLREGS 22&23.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


On Oct 30, 2014, at 21:38, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'm guessing from previous discussions that you only need to
worry about this USCG reg minutiae is if you have a Captain's
license. Right?

:)

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1

/If you dream, dream big.
If you can think of a better world you will have a better w

Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

On 10/31/2014 10:45 AM, Rick Brass wrote:


What you say is true, Bill; if you change the bulb the light fixture 
is no longer certified. Heck, if your wiring is corroded and delivers 
less than the voltage specified for testing, I'd bet is it no longer 
certified as well.




Still certified, but no longer meeting the legal requirements! In court, 
even a certified fixture can be challenged. I replaced my certified 
stern light this season because the lens on the old one was too 
weathered to be legal... or safe.


But nowhere in the Consolidated Federal Regulations can I find a 
requirement that the operator of a boat need to use a certified light. 
Only that you meet the COLREGS requirements, unless your boat is over 
65 ft and in passenger service for more than 6 passengers -- and then 
you need to also meet the UL compliance requirement.




Agreed.

(If I learned nothing else in getting my Masters License, I did learn 
how to navigate the Consolidated Federal Regulations. I'm sure there 
are different but similar requirements for Canadian boaters, but 
wouldn't have a clue as to where to look for them.) The requirement 
for certified lights applies only to a boat manufacturer.


That said, your point is about evidence in a potential admiralty court 
case. Plaintiffs' attorney can make any statement they want -- true or 
not -- during a case. It is the responsibility of the defense attorney 
to refute the stuff that is wrong or untrue. (They actually taught 
this stuff to my ex-wife, who is a retired Judge, in law school.) The 
claim about lights not certified could be used to cloud the other 
issues in a hearing and mitigate the size of a settlement.


But remember, no case involving a boat accident is about absolute 
liability. COLREGS rule 2 makes every maritime accident a shared 
liability event. So if you do go to court you are arguing about the 
portion of liability for each party involved, and arguing about the 
size of the settlement. If your lights are substandard or not even 
turned on, the other party is still required by Rule 5 (lookout) and 
Rule 6 (safe speed) to see you and avoid you. So the condition of your 
lights will not absolve him of responsibility -- but they might reduce 
his damages if he hits you.


And unless your boat or your life is a whale of a lot more valuable 
than mine, the insurance company will likely find it a lot less 
expensive to pay the damages rather than incur the expense of lawyers 
and trial to reduce the amount they have to pay.




I think we basically are in agreement, Rick. I have just tried to point 
out that there is a difference between "meeting the regulations" and 
being certified as meeting the regulations. This is a distinct difference.


All that said, I have a certified anchor light on the top of my mast, 
but I don't use it. I opt for hanging a very bright LED camp lantern in 
the triangle formed by the mast and boom, at about 20-25 feet up. I am 
confident that although it is in no way certified, that it far exceeds 
the requirements for an anchor light. It also greatly reduces the chance 
that I would ever need to prove that point after being hit by someone 
who claims they didn't see me. :-)


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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It is completely illegal to use both at the same time. Each nav light 
displayed has a specific meaning, especially in relation to other lights 
being displayed. You are not permitted to vary the configuration.


Bill Bina


On 11/3/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a 
substitute for deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in 
addition.


Bob

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Well, not exactly. The steaming light is not at the top of the mast. It 
is somewhere in the vicinity of the first set of spreaders. It is not at 
the mast HEAD. It is a mast headlight.


Bill Bina
On 11/6/2014 11:07 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


You got it.  Steaming=masthead.

On Nov 6, 2014 11:06 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Sorry for the rookie question but what is the steaming light?

For sailboats I am aware of the deck bi-color, masthead and stern
lights, tri-color (which is mounted  on the mast and used as an
alternate to the deck mounted bi-color and stern lights, and the
anchor light. Is "steaming light" another term for masthead light?




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Re: Stus-List boat terms

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Don't forget to take into account things that stick up from the top of 
the mast, such a VHF antennas. That could add 2 or 3 feet. Also add in 
the distance from the top of the cabin to the top of the boom, which is 
not part of the "P" dimension.


Bill Bina

On 11/10/2014 12:37 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Your "P" is 37.25 according the the database on baconsails.biz 
. Measure from the water to the top of the 
cabin, add the numbers and you'll end up around 43 feet.


Joel



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Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I don't know about your boat, but on mine, the original handrails had 
machine screws embedded in them under plugs. They were snugged down by 
nuts that were accessible through a series of holes in the headliner 
that were normally covered by long trim panels. When I replaced the 
handrails, I also changed to using lag bolts from below, to eliminate 
the need for plugs in the rails. I also discovered that the original 
installation had been done by eyeball, and the holes were not precisely 
spaced. The lag bolts from below also solved that issue. Otherwise I 
might have had to fill and re-drill quite a few holes.


Bill Bina

On 11/13/2014 2:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue -- maybe sand 
off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft 
-- anyone know how they come off??


Thanks

*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Dan Mccorison via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM
*To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass 
problems. This guy is great source for  the do it yourself person. 
www.Boatworkstoday.com . check it out.


Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Joe,

I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the
mounting pad is hollow or not.  It may well be hollow.

I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole.  That
will fill the hollow.  Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow
out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole.  That will create a
nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened
epoxy.  Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you
can screw the fastener.

My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago.
His new ones are a bit more square than the originals.  Looks like
he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak.

I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs
to be re-attached and plugged.  The area around the plug never
seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed
the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin
top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the
screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is
enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol
it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some
Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just
mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the
fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or
is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up
with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood
dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no
chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the
underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up
with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak,
but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just
drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is
ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging
the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive
something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to
give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak.
Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have
found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and
cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood
forward. The looped handles aft are another project.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I found a place in Florida that has replacement rails with the correct 
12" on center spacing. The generic ones at West Marine, etc, are not the 
correct spacing.


http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm

If you plan to varnish, make sure you specify NO FINISH, or they will 
automatically apply an oil finish.


Bill Bina


On 11/13/2014 2:14 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


The originals were screwed in with wood screws.  There should be 
access plugs in the liner, at least there was on Freya IV. Of course 
there is a problem if the originals are toothpicks.  I think C&C had 
them custom made for the 35 mk I.  Current store bought do not line up 
with the original holes.  I went with putting in additional holes into 
the liner (with additional access plugs).


*Glen Eddie***

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

*Torkin Manes LLP*
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the 
named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, 
confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If 
you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and 
delete this email message. Thank you.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

*Sent:* November-13-14 2:08 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue -- maybe sand 
off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft 
-- anyone know how they come off??


Thanks

*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Dan Mccorison via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM
*To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass 
problems. This guy is great source for  the do it yourself person. 
www.Boatworkstoday.com . check it out.


Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Joe,

I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the
mounting pad is hollow or not.  It may well be hollow.

I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole.  That
will fill the hollow.  Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow
out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole.  That will create a
nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened
epoxy.  Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you
can screw the fastener.

My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago.
His new ones are a bit more square than the originals.  Looks like
he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak.

I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs
to be re-attached and plugged.  The area around the plug never
seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed
the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin
top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the
screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is
enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol
it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some
Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just
mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the
fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or
is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up
with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood
dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no
chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the
underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up
with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak,
but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just
drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is
ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging
the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive
something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to
give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak.
Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have
found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and
cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood
forward. The looped handle

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C & C 30-1

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I thought my cockpit manual bilge pump was a Whale Gusher until I 
removed it from the boat and took a better look at it. British made 
Henderson Mark 5. Whale Pumps now owns the design and supplied me with a 
rebuild kit about 7 or 8 years ago.


Bill Bina




On 11/17/2014 10:31 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working.  It's the original pump 
located on the cockpit floor.  I suspect the diaphram is ruptured.
I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher???
Any idea where parts can be found?
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL


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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I've often wished for an anchor alarm app for my smart phone or GPS 
chartplotter that would work like the range alarm on my RADAR where you 
set a ring of a particular range, rather than just a directional 
distance, and if you moved outside of that circle, the alarm would 
sound. Seems to me that GPS makers have missed the boat on what would be 
a really great feature to use as a sales pitch.


Bill Bina

On 12/3/2014 9:43 AM, LKL Architects via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,
Enjoyed your humor, although I am sure there was nothing funny in your 
mind when you were awaken.  First time I set my anchor alarm, I 
allowed for 10 feet of drag.  During the night there was a slight wind 
change,  no drag but Finesse did swing.  LIke you it got me up in a 
hurry.  How stupid I felt not thinking about something so simple as a 
possible wind change, duh.  Again, enjoyed you humor and thanks for 
posting.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesss
Rockport, Texas



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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have several Garmins of various ages, including a GPSMAP76s, a GPSMAP 
276c and a GPSMAP 541. I'll have to take another look at them. I want 
the circle drawn around where the anchor is located, not around the 
boat's present position when I set the alarm. This would be done while 
looking at the chart, so you could start at the anchor location and drag 
out a perimeter from there that is just a bit more than your scope, to 
allow for tide changes. I didn't see a way to accomplish that with any 
of the units I have, but perhaps I missed something. I'll look again.


Bill BIna


On 12/3/2014 11:36 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
even my old (over 10 years) Garmin GPSMAP 76S has that function. This 
might be different for other manufacturers.

Marek
*From:* Burt Stratton via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Wednesday, December 03, 2014 9:59 AM
*To:* 'Bill Bina - gmail' <mailto:billbinal...@gmail.com> ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

Bill,

My old Garmin Chart plotter does exactly that. The anchor alarm sets 
up a radius from a point and sounds when you go outside it. Pretty 
sure most of them have that feature.


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, December 03, 2014 9:51 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

I've often wished for an anchor alarm app for my smart phone or GPS 
chartplotter that would work like the range alarm on my RADAR where 
you set a ring of a particular range, rather than just a directional 
distance, and if you moved outside of that circle, the alarm would 
sound. Seems to me that GPS makers have missed the boat on what would 
be a really great feature to use as a sales pitch.


Bill Bina

On 12/3/2014 9:43 AM, LKL Architects via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,

Enjoyed your humor, although I am sure there was nothing funny in
your mind when you were awaken.  First time I set my anchor alarm,
I allowed for 10 feet of drag.  During the night there was a
slight wind change,  no drag but Finesse did swing.  LIke you it
got me up in a hurry.  How stupid I felt not thinking about
something so simple as a possible wind change, duh.  Again,
enjoyed you humor and thanks for posting.

Lloyd Lippe

Finesss

Rockport, Texas


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Re: Stus-List Furl 1st or Reef 1st ?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Not a universal truth. I have a genoa specifically designed and built to 
be furled from 150% to 135% and 100%. It has tape marks along the foot 
for those points. The sailmaker, Clarke Bassett, who designed and built 
this sail, made from graduated weights of sailcloth, also has designed 
and built sails for America's Cup (1987 Stars & Stripes) among other 
notables. The sail maintains a great shape at all points of furling, and 
because the forward part of the sail is made from the lightest weight 
cloth, the sausage is very thin and tight. He has patents on it.


Bill Bina


On 12/4/2014 10:58 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
I've been told by sailmakers that partially furling your sail is very, 
very bad for the sail, especially on racing sails where the stress 
loads are designed to be in particular places.


That being said, when I was in a race and was suddenly faced with a 
40-mph storm, furling was the easiest and fastest way to reduce sail.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




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Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Marinas often sell both gas and diesel that have been specifically 
formulated for marine use. They have additives that address conditions 
that differ from conditions on roads and highways. One major brand of 
this "marine" fuel is Valvtect. Is it necessary? Probably not. Is it 
beneficial? Could have more and better anti-corrosion additives, etc, 
that help your engine.


http://www.valvtect.com/marineFuelDiesel.asp

Bill Bina


On 12/9/2014 9:51 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
I was reading an article that made reference to 'marine diesel fuel' 
versus 'diesel fuel' .  The article did not go into detail as to 
whether or not there is actually a difference between the two.  I 
always thought that a 'diesel engine' whether marine or otherwise 
burned the same fuel


Was this simply the 'writer's interpretation' in that diesel used for 
marine purposes is somehow different from diesel used for say, diesel 
powered automobiles?


This is probably a stupid question and if so, tell me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on the stands.

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Shedding of surface water on boats is a design element that is 
predicated on the boat rolling, rocking and pitching. When that movement 
stops, there are usually problems. In the days of wooden boats, being on 
land caused greatly accelerated deterioration. This is exactly why many 
people cover their boats with a frame and tarp while on the hard. 
Covered boats age much slower.


Bill Bina


On 12/22/2014 12:12 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:


Hi all, I have a question on boat stands and aft tilting of the boat 
while on the hard.


I find water drainage on most C&C designs to be horrible. I’ve tackled 
the issues many times but this one keeps coming back to haunt me.


When the boat is in water, a while back I made drain holes at what 
appeared to be the lowest point on deck.  So when boat is properly 
loaded and equipped, the deck drains pretty good.


Well all that changes once the boat is out of the water as the yard 
props it so that everything is tilting aft.  So now water collects 
about few feet further aft.   Year after year this tilting changes 
based on how they setup the stands at the time of haulout.  No matter 
what you do (I’ve drilled pilot holes in aluminum toerail),  I  always 
have submerged pulpit stanchions bases.  For me these carry a 
significant load(solar panels, support the wind generator and 15HP 
outboard on pulpit mount)  Well in the winter, ice works the base 
screws on stanchions and before you know it you get leaks and wet core.


I would love to prop the aft stands and lower the forward ones so that 
the boats sits more level and the water collects where my drain holes 
are.  Has anyone done this or will doing this disturb  how the keel 
sits on the wooden blocks?


My thought was to just prop the aft ones but then I realized that they 
all need to be adjusted slightly.


Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom 
cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a 
mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to 
the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a little more work, 
but it is still not that hard to do.


I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate.I'm sure a diver 
would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.


I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing 
the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In 
addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension 
made from plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by 
about a foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the 
center area of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I 
have some pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find 
them, I'll post them somewhere on the web.


Bill Bina



On 12/23/2014 9:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a 
tank sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. 
Although I can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is 
not a terribly strenuous activity.


Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if 
you race…


Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, 
it was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can 
do the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little 
too aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad 
hooks to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half 
a dozen cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is 
attached to a plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There 
used to be a lesser version with just a single floatation pad on the 
back, but after I wore that one out, I got the special model with the 
cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach the keel.

I use it between diver trips.
Gary

- Original Message -
*From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and
some flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes
bottom cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm
now on a mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying
the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a
little more work, but it is still not that hard to do.

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate.I'm sure a
diver would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit.
Screwing the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work
very well. In addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added a
curved extension made from plumbing so that the broom head is
offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance makes all
the difference in reaching the center area of the hull without the
boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this
thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them
somewhere on the web.

Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Pics of my mast head and spreaders

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

After repairs are completed, I would reconsider all that wrapping. It 
may be causing more problems than it is preventing, by holding in 
moisture and dirt.


Bill Bina


On 1/12/2015 12:57 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:


I had committed a couple weeks ago to take some pics of my halyard 
sheaves among other things for another lister. I posted some that 
might be helpful.


There are also pics of my spreaders. My lowers seem to be in need of 
repair or replacement. I obviously need to clean off the protective 
tape and expose the ends / turnbuckles, etc. but there seems to be a 
fair amount of corrosion, even cracking. When the weather improves a 
bit I will head back down to get a better look. I would consider it a 
huge favor for someone with some experience in the review of rigging 
to take a look and comment. I hope these links work. It was a little 
more work than it should seem to be to get these on Google Drive.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLRXhXbUE3eUo4X0U/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLaXQyTExEbEJybzg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLc3NHS0hIY2syXzA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLUWhvUmVxZUJrTEk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLTGpsdXJrUm52LXM/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLLTgzOTY0TDhUOE0/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLT0tyMmFIQXl6eWc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLSnMtUlBIem9NWm8/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLZ21uY05EWVJraDQ/view?usp=sharing

Skip

1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner

On the hard in walpole

Mast in Portsmouth, RI

bstrat...@falconnect.com 



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Re: Stus-List Questions from potential buyer

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

How would you have registered a boat without the HIN? All boats 
manufactured in the US and Canada have the HIN in the upper starboard of 
the transom since 1972.


Bill Bina


On 1/14/2015 9:05 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:

I have been impressed with the way my 1974 33 3/4 tonner is made. Other than
the likely-hood for moisture in the balsa core of the cabin roof and the
cockpit sole (not the fault of the manufacturer) the boat looks to be solid
as a rock and sails nice and stiff. I do wish I had the 33-1 layout, though.
The modifications they made for the 3/4 ton model make the living on board
pretty sparse.

I keep seeing folks on this list giving hull numbers. I cannot for the life
of me find mine. Now my boat was likely made in the custom shop. It has an
extended keel (about 12 inches) but the hull and sail plan is identical to
the 33-1. The only plaque is on the aft wall of the cockpit and there is no
hull number on it.  Is it possible there is no hull number?




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Re: Stus-List Where is my old 30' C&C now

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

If you can provide the HIN, we can see if she is now documented, and 
perhaps her location.


Bill Bina

On 1/20/2015 12:22 PM, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List wrote:
I was wondering where my original C&C 30' is now. I purchased her in 
1975, brand new, from Havre de Grace Marina in Maryland. What a 
beauty, chocolate  brown hull with a cameo deck. It had the Atomic 4 
engine that ran like a dream. I had never sailed in my life when I 
purchased her and Arvid, the marina owner, took me out several times 
to show me what everything was for. Needless to say I have been hooked 
ever sense. Fusty, the name I gave her, was the 30 footer that C&C had 
at the boat show that year in either Montreal or Toronto. She was 
totally decked out with all the goodies because of the show. I sailed 
her on the upper Chesapeake the first year and gradually started 
sailing with a larger head sail, she came with a 110, 135, and 170 
headsail. Not knowing anything I started with the 110 and worked my 
way up to the 170. I loved the thought of racing and during the first 
winter on the hard I had spinnaker gear installed, B&G hornet series 
gauges, and had a spinnaker and tallboy made at Concord Point Sail 
maker. Unfortunately, I can not find any info with the hull number and 
the marina has changed ownership and they have no record. Is there a 
way to find Fusty now?


Tom Vincent
1979 C&C 36 cb
Chesapeake City, MD


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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you mention 
what type of device you are using, the operating system name, and 
version and whatever email or browser client you are using. Just saying, 
"It's broke" doesn;t help solve the problem, which might be limited to 
just one particular thing you all have in common. I'm using Windows 7 on 
a desktop PC with Mozilla Thunderbird for email, and it works fine for 
me. I also have no problem with it on my Android phone.


Bill Bina


On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Add me to the list

jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
C&C 39 TM


On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to
subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:

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Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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w_detail
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Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list
has subject
and then just the signature tag "This list is provided by ... "
(see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com ]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: C&C Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List Mounting Outboard Bracket

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have that setup on my 27-5 and it works wonderfully. I have the 
bracket model 71033. It has a nice long travel, and is rated for enough 
weight for the Yamaha 4-stroke. My boat came from the factory with an 
outboard. The 71033 allows the motor to be a couple inches out of the 
water when the bracket is full up, and the outboard tilted. It also 
allows it to get the shaft deeper in the water than many setups I've 
seen. That is important. I have a thick plywood plate with large metal 
washers on the inside, and a 1 inch thick mounting pad made of Starboard 
on the exterior.


Bill Bina



On 2/3/2015 10:43 AM, Dan Utinske via CnC-List wrote:
I  want to mount a Garelick bracket on my stearn to support a Yamaha 
9.9 4 stroke.  I've seen at least on C&C 26' with an outboard; anyone 
have any experience mounting and anything unusual that I can expect?  
Probably better off having it done by a professional, any opinions?

Dan Utinske
C&C 26' "Only Time"


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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Spares

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The winchers do not work very well as a substitute for a self-tailing 
winch, but they DO provide a welcome cushion when you bang a knee or 
shin into a winch. I left them on for that reason alone.


Bill Bina


On 2/23/2015 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Our J27 came with the blue winchers on the primaries.

They are on the bottom of the Northumberland Strait now

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Harry Hallgring via CnC-List

*Sent:* Saturday, February 21, 2015 4:41 PM
*To:* mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Spares

Mike,

did you have Winchmates or Winchers?

Harry

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 21, 2015, at 3:36 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I had those winchmate things on my Mirage, did not care for them
at all and cut them off.

___



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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The only "flaw" is that it is a closeout sale to make way for the new 
model HX870. The HX851 is a great radio, and at $125 is indeed a bargain.


Bill Bina

On 2/24/2015 7:49 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-HX851-Handheld-VHF-Radio-with-GPS-P2312.aspx

Unless there is a flaw in these radios I am not aware of, this is the 
VHF handheld bargain of the century. I would buy one or two of these 
PHRF or not.


I think I’ll get one myself just on general principles of being a 
cheap sailor J


*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C&C 35 MK I/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Pete Shelquist via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, February 23, 2015 10:56 PM
*To:* 'Gary Nylander'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

Gary –

I’ve been digging for the information you referenced on “purchased” 
after 1/1/15.  Can you send me a link for that?


Thanks,

Pete

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Gary Nylander via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, February 22, 2015 12:33 PM
*To:* Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

Joel, I checked with our CBYRA rep and was told that CBYRA is not the 
authority, it is PHRF of the Chesapeake. And I looked at the PHRF web 
site and it states that if the handheld is PURCHASED after 1/1/15, 
then it must have the DSC capability.


Gary

St. Michaels

- Original Message -

*From:*Joel Aronson via CnC-List 

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Sent:*Saturday, February 21, 2015 2:22 PM

*Subject:*Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

All,

Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a
handheld VHF with DSC this season.

Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS
from theGPSStore for $125.00

Any reason I should not buy this unit?

35/3

The Office

Annapolis

Joel
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 C&C30 MK1

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you 
need on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call.


Bill Bina

On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the C&C in 1981? I 
need to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find 
a souse for the gasket/



thanks

--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that 
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. 
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. 
Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *

**

/* __/) */

.





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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 C&C30 MK1

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Select Plastics in South Norwalk, CT "is" Hatchmasters.com :-)

Bill Bina

On 2/24/2015 12:14 PM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
If you are close to Norwalk CT you can get get gasket and lens from 
Select Plastics


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Feb 24, 2015, at 11:29, Curtis via CnC-List > wrote:


Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the C&C in 1981? I 
need to replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to 
find a souse for the gasket/



thanks

--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things 
that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the 
bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in 
your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *

**

/* __/) */

.



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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I have two group 27 AGM's on my boat. One is the house, and one is for 
starting. AGM's have lower internal resistance than flooded batteries, 
which mean they accept a charge more easily, and they also can provide 
the extra current for starting without breaking a sweat. They have thin 
plates, but unlike a flooded battery, they are completely supported by 
the glass mat between them. That makes them immune to the vibration that 
can kill flooded batteries including deep cycle versions. They are also 
immune to the instant onset of sulfation when dropping water levels 
expose the plates in flooded batteries to air. I am on a mooring and the 
batteries are always charged to 100% with just the use of a 20 watt 
solar panel and a Genasun MPPT controller. My only other charging source 
is the alternator in my Yamaha outboard. The same setup with flooded 
batteries had trouble reaching full charge. I do not find charging them 
at all tricky. They have different needs than other types, but it really 
is not at all complicated to provide what pleases them.


Bill Bina



On 2/27/2015 11:00 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
AGMs on a mooring (or dock without shore power) without solar (or some 
other way of topping up the batteries) will, quite likely, kill the 
batteries very quickly (I managed to murder one in a year).

Marek
*From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Friday, February 27, 2015 10:31 AM
*To:* Joe Della Barba  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?
If you do use AGMs, you need to keep them charged.  A mooring without 
a solar panel is not going to go well.

Joel

On Friday, February 27, 2015, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As I said before, I am not an AGM fan. If you do decide to use
them, Sams Club has group 31 deep cycle AGMs with the Energizer
brand label. They are Deka batteries, exact same as West Marine
sells, for about 50% of the price. Think they charge around $160
for them. The Sears Diehard Platinum grp 31 AGM is a relabeled
Odyssey thin plate AGM for about half the price.

Joe Della Barba

javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','j...@dellabarba.com');



--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Garhauer rigid vang is $400-$500, not $1200. I have one on my 27-5 and 
it is perfect. Garhauer is a great company to deal with, and their stuff 
is very high quality.


Bill Bina

On 3/4/2015 10:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Peter

Consider a Boom kicker in conjunction with your soft vang as another 
option.  Plan on $300 brand new.  On our J-27 I opted for a US Spars 
rigid vang for $400 new.  I gave away my rope vang and blocks (the 
fiddle block was 1 year old) when I added this.  Most of the J27 fleet 
went with the boomkicker.  The US Spars vang includes line and blocks 
attached to vang. After the first year I decided I did not like this 
arrangement and added a rope vang with new blocks in addition to the 
rigid vang and was happy with that.  Took the price up close to $200.  
I likely should have gone with the boomkicker.


The C&C 27 is a fairly small boat with a much smaller sail plan that 
the J27 and of course much smaller than C&C 30.  The arrangements 
described above would work well on your 27.  The only thing I was less 
satisfied with on the US Spars rigid vang was the boom attachment 
which is a bit lighter weight than I would like.  However again the 
C&C 27 has a smaller sail plan and less pressures than the J27.


Unfortunately I do not have pictures.

The weakness of the boom end attachment for the US Spars vang was that 
it only had 2 rivets and with the blocks on the rigid vang itself 
there was tremendous pressure on those rivets when vang on tight.  
With the rigid vang being used for upward pressure and a traditional 
rope and block vang for downward pressure and attached at the bail on 
the boom as designed this pressure is gone.


I do hope this helps.  A $1200 rigid vang is very much overkill on a 
27.  Buy something new for $400 or less


Mike

Persistence

Frers 33




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Re: Stus-List Electronics update

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

You want the transducer somewhere where it will not be affected by 
turbulence. Most depth and speed transducers are ahead of the keel and 
as close to the centerline as practical, for that reason.


Bill Bina


On 3/6/2015 8:12 AM, John Bousfield via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All,
Great info being passed around. We are upgrading our instruments and 
have a few questions.
1. Our depth transducer is located +/_ 2 feet on center line behind 
the keel. Is this the normal location?





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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

You would have also discovered that many insurance companies will not 
insure a boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the 
numbers, and those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It is 
one of the "hot" items they look for in the insurance survey.


The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are virtually 
invisible, which can also lead to unintended consequences.


Bill Bina

On 3/5/2015 10:14 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

An question from another new C&C 33  MK II owner.

I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure 
alcohol stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is 
blue but not adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns 
about 8" high. Made an easy decision to scrap this.

Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated

John from Enterprise



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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The other downside to using alcohol as a fuel is that it releases an 
amazing amount of moisture in the air as it burns. In the confines of a 
boat cabin, this is quite noticeable.


Bill Bina

On 3/6/2015 12:19 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote:
I ripped out a pressurized alcohol stove and replaced it with an Origo 
on my last boat.  I would 2nd Alan’s assessment below.  They are great 
because they are self-contained, no need for tanks, lines, etc, and 
almost no risk of fire.  In my case, I made some wooden spacers and 
was able to bolt it into an existing gimbal mount.  The downside is 
the lower heat compared to propane, or I assume CNG.  It takes a long 
time to boil water and things like that.   Firewater came with a 
complete propane setup that works great. That would be the obvious 
choice if the lines are already run, but given the locker requirements 
it’s not a small job on most boats.


Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI


Sent from Windows Mail

*From:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent:* ‎Friday‎, ‎March‎ ‎6‎, ‎2015 ‎10‎:‎14‎ ‎AM
*To:* Alan Bergen , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


I have a two-burner Origo non-pressurized alcohol stove. Perfectly 
safe, works well for cooking, but you have to buy a French press if 
you like coffee in the morning because there aren’t enough BTUs to 
percolate coffee fast enough, at least for me.
I use denatured alcohol from Home Depot at a fraction of the cost of 
“boat fuel.” Despite the claims of the boat fuel sellers, the generic 
stuff works perfectly fine.
If you go this way, it helps to have a propane BBQ on the stern rail 
for the occasional meal when you really want that hot flame.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
*From:* Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Friday, March 06, 2015 11:02 AM
*Cc:* C&C Photoalbum email list 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stove
I had CNG on my previous boat.  I liked it because of the safety 
factor.  It was easier, then, to get refills.  Not so easy now.  If 
you have easy access to refills, it's less work to convert from 
alcohol to CNG, than to propane, as the CNG canister can be stowed below.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty


CNG is what we have. Lighter than air.  Pretty hard to find places to 
refill canister though


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Alan Bergen via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, March 06, 2015 11:43 AM
*To:* C&C Photoalbum email list
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stove

Remember that propane is heavier than air.  If you install a propane 
stove, the propane must be in a compartment that vents (at the bottom) 
to the outside, or mount the propane tank outside the cabin. FYI - I 
just bought a Worthington aluminum 10 lb tank from Amazon for $130 
US.  Ordered on Friday; delivered by US Postal Service on Sunday.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

An question from another new C&C 33  MK II owner.

I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure 
alcohol stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is 
blue but not adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns 
about 8" high. Made an easy decision to scrap this.


Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated

John from Enterprise


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Re: Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend some 
time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better off with 
Micron Extra.


Bill Bina

On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks Mike

I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then on 
to State #2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me.  Has been 
a long time since we skied there. Portland seems a few hours out of 
our way and we were hoping to make a quick stop at a store to buy some 
paint.


Bob Abbott of Azura has pretty much convinced me to use Micron 66 
which we cannot buy in Canada


Mike

*From:*Fair, Mike [mailto:mike.f...@mckesson.com]
*Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 2:22 PM
*To:* Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* RE: marine stores in bangor maine

Google Hamilton Marine. They are in Portland and a couple other 
locations Down East.


Thanks,

Mike Fair

413.587.6535

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, March 09, 2015 12:49 PM
*To:* schiller; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Subject:* Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine

I will be driving through Bangor later this month and wish to pick up 
some paint that I cannot source in Canada.  Any suggestions of a 
convenient place to get this?


Regards

Mike

Persistence



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Re: Stus-List marine stores in bangor maine

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Up until this past summer, I was always in a slip a half mile up a 
river. I've always used Micron Extra, and even though I am now moored in 
salt water, I still seem to be getting equally good results. Because of 
the price differential, I did try the Petit (Ultima SR-40) equivalent, 
and after just one season of the two season paint job, I switched back 
to old reliable Micron Extra.


Bill Bina

On 3/9/2015 2:02 PM, Josh Muckley wrote:


That's right Bill.  I tried 66 in brackish water which Interlux 
explained would be "salty enough".  It worked fine during the first 
season but during the first haul out it peeled off in sheets.  
Fortunately the yard that put it on was a certified retailer so the 
repair/replacement was fully covered. I seem to remember they used 
Micron CSC.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 9, 2015 1:47 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Note that Micron 66 is strictly for salt water only. If you spend
some time in brackish water, as well as salt water, you are better
off with Micron Extra.

Bill Bina

On 3/9/2015 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks Mike

I will be travelling I95 South or #9 from Calais thru bangor then
on to State #2 West at Newport thru Skowhegan to Sugarloaf, Me. 
Has been a long time since we skied there.  Portland seems a few

hours out of our way and we were hoping to make a quick stop at a
store to buy some paint.

Bob Abbott of Azura has pretty much convinced me to use Micron 66
which we cannot buy in Canada

Mike




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Re: Stus-List Donations

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My suggestion to use gofundme.com was just an example. It doesn't have 
to be done through them, if Stu objects. My suggestion was based on the 
idea that Stu should NEVER have to spend a dime out of pocket for the 
list or the website. His contribution, which will never come close to 
being matched, is his long and tireless effort to create and keep this 
thing going.


I just felt that it might help if we knew what the goal was, and could 
track how far we were from reaching it. I think the notion that folks 
should just send Stu a few bucks when they think of it is a little too 
casual. Why can't we make it part of our spring commissioning lists and 
set a month for reaching that goal every year? I think I remember that 
there are about 300 people subscribed to this list. What percentage send 
anything at all, and how often? I know I have donated periodically, but 
I'm absolutely sure it was not every year.


For now, with no other organized plan in place, I think I'm going to tie 
my donations to my subscription to Sail Magazine. Whenever I renew that 
subscription, I will contribute the same amount to Stu at the same time.


Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I want the ball cap that matches the era of my boat. I bought two of 
them through Stu quite a few years ago, and a pair of fresh ones are 
probably a good idea if they become available again.


Bill Bina

On 3/18/2015 8:31 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
Old or new style?   The new company's hats are red with the new logo. 
 A few years back I visited the C&C plant in Fairport  Ohio under 
Tartan.  They gave me the old style hat which I still have.  They may 
have some still.  Jerry.  C&C. 27V. J&J.


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Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Is there anyplace that would embroider good quality ball caps "on 
demand"? I know you can set up with some companies online where they 
handle everything and give you a cut. You pay a flat fee once to get 
your design set up, and then they produce them as they are ordered. No 
minimum number. Most of the ones I've seen only do printing on various 
products such as tee shirts foam ball caps and coffee mugs. If there is 
one that does embroidering, it might be an option that would be more 
agreeable to Gladys!


Bill Bina

On 3/18/2015 2:44 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List wrote:

+ Yes

I'm in for 2.

Leslie.

On Tue, 3/17/15, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps
  To: "Bradley Lumgair" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Tuesday, March 17, 2015, 7:54 PM
  
  I never

  write in all caps, but YES!
  I would order 3  ball caps, if
  available.
  Robert H.
  
  


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Re: Stus-List Defender's Warehouse Sale

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It is quite the three ring circus. Lots of participation by 
manufacturers. Prices are great, and they also have a room of 
discontinued and shop worn stuff that holds some treasures. You'll see 
things such as brand new 22 pound Delta anchors for $50 because the 
finish is no longer bright. If you have a shopping list, the savings 
really add up. Many of the best bargains are orphans, or old stock, and 
are not listed on the website. There will also be deep discounts on 
stuff such as bottom paint.


Bill Bina



On 3/24/2015 10:23 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
Are any listers planning to go to Defender's warehouse sale this 
weekend? Is it worth going? I'll be in New Haven's area this weekend 
and trying to decide if I should drop by...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html


Bill Bina

On 3/26/2015 9:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote:


Edd,

If you run and cut each cable then bring them along with your terminal 
ends to an electric shop or yard I bet they will crimp then on for you 
very reasonably.


Burt (Skip) Stratton

1974 C&C 33-3/4 tonner

Narragansett Bay, RI

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Edd Schillay via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, March 26, 2015 9:33 AM
*To:* Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

Fred,

Thanks, but the lengths are all a question mark. I purchased a large 
spool of red and black cable and are going to do the runs under this 
and over that, and then cut/crimp.



All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










On Mar 25, 2015, at 7:01 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Edd — I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.
 I just need to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the
stud sizes for the lugs.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V /Oceanis/ (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:


http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lug-Crimper-p/m-500.htm

I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one. :)

There are imported version for a lot less.

Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.forespar.com/what-is-marelon.shtml

Bill Bina

On 4/13/2015 10:54 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Is the pipe dope (thread sealer) compatible with Marelon? Does anyone 
know?

Btw. what is Marelon? ABS? PVC? Nylon? something completely different?
Marek


.
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Re: Stus-List Signing up

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

When you find out what it is, you might want to change it to INCORRECT

That way, in the future, when you enter a wrong password, the computer 
will remind you that


"password is incorrect"

Bill Bina



On 4/17/2015 8:26 AM, Hans And Sharon via CnC-List wrote:

I am apparently signed up, however I am not sure what my password is?
Hans.

Sent from my iPad
Hans j. Andersen

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Re: Stus-List Tiller on C&C 35 Mkiii?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My 1986 C&C 27-5 does not have a cored hull.

Bill Bina

On 4/20/2015 12:44 PM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List wrote:
I don't like cored hulls either.  As far as I know the 32 was the last 
C&C built without one.

Cheers
david
Wanderer
C&C32

*From:* David Castor via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, April 16, 2015 6:02 PM
*To:* robert  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Tiller on C&C 35 Mkiii?

Rob,

Thanks for that link - I'll definitely take a look.  We own a little 
trailer sailor at present (Potter 19), so this will be the first 
keelboat purchase for me.  I've done a fair amount of sailing 
(passages from Portland to the San Juans) with friends on their boats, 
some sailing classes and a couple of cruises in the San Juans/Gulf 
Islands.


We currently live in Oregon, but I'm in the process of retiring and 
we've purchased a house in Port Angeles, so if I do buy a boat, it 
will be based out of Port Angeles.I've been looking for something 
from 30' to 35' feet, so this is at the long end.  I originally had 
been reluctant to consider these C&C boats because of the cored hulls, 
but I guess I'm somewhat getting over that phobia, although I'll 
definitely be getting it surveyed.


Cheers,

Dave

On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:28 PM, robert > wrote:


Dave, welcome to the C&C list.  You didn't say if this was your
first boat (I am betting it is not)..if you are, then the
attached article and especially the part where it says to become a
boat detective could be useful buying any boat.
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/buying.htm

However, if you are only looking for specifics on C&C 35MKIII's,
there are several owners on this list with considerable experience
with the 35 MKIII.

Keep the list informed on how you far out.  And where do you sail
from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2015-04-16 4:28 PM, David Castor via CnC-List wrote:

Hello - first post here.  I'm in the market for a boat and will
be looking at two different 35 Mkiii tomorrow.  One apparently
has a tiller instead of a wheel.  Does anyone know if this was an
option on a new boat?  I'm assuming it was probably a later
conversion.

I've already been advised on checking for leaks at hull/deck
joint and portlights, as well as mast step area and deck
delamination/core rot.

If there are any other things to be looking for let me know. 
I'll definitely be getting a survey if it gets that far, but

trying to screen out any major issues.

Thanks,

Dave Castor


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Re: Stus-List Mast on c&c 33 MKII

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My 1986 mast is labeled, "designed by C&C", but manufactured by Cinkel, 
which is long out of business.


Bill Bina



On 5/13/2015 6:57 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:

I've tried a search and am unable to find the manufacturer of the mast on my 
1985 cnc 33 MKII, need to order new guides for the spin pole car as one is 
broken, any ideas?
Thanx
Brad
C & C 33 "Pulse"
Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I would be concerned about any declared or undeclared liens for previous 
work or storage. Those might be substantial, and inheirited in any 
transfer of ownership.


Bill Bina

On 5/14/2015 9:57 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time. The buyer is looking 
at 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who 
-knows- what.  It would not surprise me if it is parted out on 
craigslist in a few weeks.


On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 9:42 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Bids are now up to $191. NO "K". Nearly $200.

Interesting to watch, I hope she finds a home and someone with the
time and skills.

Nate

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 8:24 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


you wrote:

... Project by all means.  Always liked the LF38.
Looking for a long term project cruising boat for a few
years from now.  I know, don't say it.


I'll say it.  Don't get me started.  

I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I
bought Stella Blue.  It evolved into the project page:


I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was
ready for my intended purpose.  On the other hand, I know
every nut, bolt, screw and wire on the boat.  That comes in handy.

60K is pretty high.  I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot
of demand for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos.

Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in
the right place.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue

www.wbryant.com 



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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I'd be happy if more sailors would simply learn the difference between 
"deck", and, "topsides".


Bill Bina.




On 5/14/2015 2:01 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight 
is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not 
a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly 
tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The 
compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent 
movement and elongation of holes.


I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the 
term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as 
many other old terms as I can.


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and 
then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud 
and the tang have to rotate as one. 



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Stus-List 27-5 pintles and gudgeons

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My lower gudgeon on my 27-5 has become a little sloppy after only 30 
years. My two options are to either replace it, or drill it out slightly 
oversized and sleeve it. I would much prefer to replace it if I can find 
one. Any ideas? This is a transom hung rudder and the "pintle" is really 
a 1/2 inch diameter by about 3 1/2 inch clevis pin. The gudgeon is a 
square plate (roughl;y 3x3 inch) with upper and lower bosses with 1/2 
inch holes. The part on the rudder slips between the upper and lower, 
making what looks like an oversized door hinge. I have found what they 
used on the J-24, but it is two separate pieces for upper and lower, and 
of course the holes are completely different.


Bill Bina

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Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to 
crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. 
Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage 
drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a 
battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make 
the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has 
load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to 
most places that sell batteries for a free load test.


Bill Bina

On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Steve,

That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 
is here: 
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf


And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while 
starting. When I combine, there’s enough there.


All my connections are sound — they’re all new.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 
has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly 
in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the 
battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see 
what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest 
Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged 
and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your 
starting problem.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON




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Re: Stus-List Hull# (HIN) for 34+?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

This boat is also new enough that it has a second impront of the HIN 
somewhere hidden in the interior. MIne is visable when I lift the seat 
of the port settee, and it is stamped in the top edge surface of the 
fiberglass pan under the seat. I forget what year that second imprint 
became mandatory, but my boat is a 1986 and has it.


Bill Bina


On 5/28/2015 8:33 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Why do you need the HIN plate?  The vessel is documented right?  That 
means the Doc number is permanently attached on an inside structure 
and is every bit as official a tiny engraved plate riveted to the hull.


Josh

On May 28, 2015 8:29 AM, "David Pulaski via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Ken - thanks for that lookup tool.  That makes me feel better.  I
really want this deal to go through.  Just gotta have the yard
affix a proper replacement HIN plate.  Very excited about the
boat.  :)

-Dave




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Re: Stus-List *****SPAM***** Re: Hull# (HIN) for 34+?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I don't think it was ever valid. It was just ignored. Means the same 
thing as a smiley face. :-)


Bill Bina

On 5/28/2015 8:41 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
We had a + on our 34+ hin.  What is invalid today may have been fine 
in 1990.


John


Sent from my iPad

On May 28, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


A quick search of the United States Coast Guard's Port State 
Information eXchange (PSIX) system reveals several (actually 27) C&C 
34+ with similar HIN (Hull Numbers).


You can search here: http://cgmix.uscg.mil/PSIX/PSIXSearch.aspx

The wild card symbol in a search on that site is the percent symbol "%"

So do a search for "ZCC34+%" to see the results.

Ken H.

On 28 May 2015 at 09:01, David Pulaski via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Just had a survey done on a '90 34+ yesterday, looks good but one
bit of weirdness: the HIN has a "+" symbol in it, which HIN
decoders say is invalid.  The HIN starts off "ZCC34+"

Can anyone else with a 34+ verify that this is what their HIN
looks like?

Thanks!

-Dave


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Re: Stus-List sail question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Kappa Sails, in Westbrook Connecticut has a patented genoa that furls 
from a 150 down to a 100 without losing excellent shape, or creating a 
fat sausage at the luff. The sail is made up of panels of graduated 
weight, so in heavy wind, you have just heavier material exposed, and 
the rest of the sail is made of lighter material. It works VERY well. 
Kappa has designed and built sails for Americas Cup, and hold quite a 
few patents for sail design. The founder of the company, Clarke Bassett, 
sails a C&C.


Bill Bina


On 6/4/2015 11:32 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Joe,

We have a 135% on our roller furling, which seems to work for us just 
fine in both racing and cruising.


As to roll-in, every sailmaker I’ve talked to has said that a 
partially-furled sail will drastically reduce the life of that sail — 
load stress points, reinforced areas, blah, blah, blah.


I would suggest keeping it small, but never partially furl.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Jun 4, 2015, at 11:20 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks for all the info so far.
Racing is not an issue for this sail. Neither is real light air, I 
can motor, use the spinnaker, or drag out one of my 170 genoas. I 
have a Mylar and light Dacron 170 that both have hardly been used.
I am thinking smaller instead of bigger because when the wind is 
really kicking I want to roll in to around 100% and still have a good 
shape.
I have looked for used sails for years now and kind of given up on 
that. Unless the boat sinks, no one is giving up a good furling jib. 
If you want a racing sail or an old hank-on sail, plenty of those 
around. It looks like I will need to go new for this.

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com 
Coquina
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf 
Of*Gary Nylander via CnC-List

*Sent:*Thursday, June 04, 2015 10:02 AM
*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:*Gary Nylander
*Subject:*Re: Stus-List sail question
No break on the Chesapeake.
Gary



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Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I would change course, and go for an 18 volt, 1/2 inch Ryobi with one of 
the new lightweight lithium Ion batteries. They are variable speed, and 
those new batteries run a LONG time on a charge, and then charge back up 
in an hour. Plug the 110 volt charger into an inverter when onboard, or 
get two batteries and rotate them from home. You'll be getting so much 
more "tool" than anything like what you described can provide.


Bill Bina

On 6/16/2015 11:15 AM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:


I am looking for a small light duty light weight  3/8 max bit size, 12 
volt cordless drill that has a 110 volt charger and also has a 12 volt 
cord with cigarette lighter adaptor that can be used directly 
connected to the house batteries.


Does anyone have any recommendations?

John

Arpeggio C&C 32

Norwalk, CT



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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller squeeking

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I would suggest LPS-2 as superior to either WD-40 or Silicone spray in 
this application. Silicone sprays usually contain very low amounts of 
silicone, and are mostly just comprised of petroleum Distillates, as is 
WD-40. LPS1 (low viscosity version that leaves a slippery dry film) and 
LPS 2 are widely used by aircraft manufacturers, and others with more 
serious requirements for lasting lubrication. Surprisingly, it is widely 
available in Auto-parts and hardware stores. Even Walmart carries it!


Bill Bina

On 6/18/2015 10:57 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List wrote:

Robert, If the 3 in 1 oil you used stops working, try spray silicone. It's 
supposed to be the best lube for Delrin plastic. It's the same material as the 
ball bearings in roller furlings and WD40 or silicone spray work best there 
too. If it's a long term problem I would get a new bearing machined. It can't 
be that expensive and others have replaced theirs. It would drive me nuts 
listening to a squeek in a quiet anchorage as the rudder moves with waves.
Len Mitchell
C&C 37+
Midland On

Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines 
because the fuel dissolves teflon tape.


Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the 
lube aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.


I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust 
fittings. This is probably the worst application for the product 
(second being any system with a pump in it). It is best used in 
domestic water situations.


At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. 
Fatal to birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and 
probably not good for humans in a small space either.


I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might 
stink a wee bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm 
you.


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:

Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really 
there to "seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are 
simply there to lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight 
connection can be made. The lubricant may also help in 
disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression as a result of 
the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents leaks.  
Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â


That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F). Just 2 
wraps.  I may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  
I also used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.


As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is 
usually copper colored and most auto parts stores should carry it. 
If you've ever replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The Tides Marine Strong Track was a great upgrade. When I release the 
halyard, the main comes down as if it is not even attached to the mast. 
I would recommend ordering direct from the maker, though, as that way 
you get tech support from the people that have seen it all, and know 
what to do. I don't think you save any money or time by going through a 
middleman.


https://www.tidesmarine.com/

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:37 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:
The Tides Marine strong track was about the best money that I have 
spent Honey's upgrades since 1975.


Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
US12788
C&C 39 TM


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com  FROM YOUR 
ADDRESS BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com 
*



On Tue, Jun 23, 2015 at 12:26 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are
bucking in the mast track.

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second
hand)main sail having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff
cord trying to bring the main down in a blow last year, and the
patch job gave way on my first sail this year.

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff
via stainless shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so
does the fact that I never converted the masthead pulley after
changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Roundup is water soluble.

Bill Bina

On 7/2/2015 11:48 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

hey Kevin,

I'm skeptical that Roundup addition to bottom paint will work. I've 
been lead to believe that Roundup needs to be applied to green leafy 
plants that are in the growing stage.


If you think it works, what kind of proportions are we looking at?

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1



At 07:36 AM 01/07/2015, you wrote:

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in 
which we sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a 
witches brew of anti biotics into these same waters is similarly 
ignorant IMO. Complain about the EPA all you like, but someone needs 
to take on the unenviable task of protecting the rest of us and our 
sailing waters from the ill informed and questionably intentioned. My 
2 cents.


Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AMÂ Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as
prescribed.  If the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it
would be in the paint from the factory. Â

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it
regularly when we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5
years. It's not real long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.Â
My competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom every week, I scrub it
never yet we're fast enough to consistently show-up on the podium
despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old
bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA Â



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
              Â
<1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I think any drug like " tetracycline" will kill lots of germs and
bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a
few days. I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of
jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins.
I've heard of people mixing in "Round Up" and I've heard the same
people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask
them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as
directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never
read the directions.

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow
those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for
8 years and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom
each week to stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and
sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, Micron 66, and
love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached
to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with
a soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is
designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires "Micron Extra" I
think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth
as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi
season hard abatives.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=8d5d5ecb01&attid=0.0.1&th=14e49f48daac7062&view=fimg&rm=14e49f48daac7062&sz=w1600-h1000&attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeo&disp=emb&zw
">

Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales & Distribution,
Software Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429Â
e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com  Â  Â Â

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Re: Stus-List Damage to fibreglas

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

/Q. I have heard that gel coat will not adhere well to epoxy 
. Can you confirm 
this?/


A. There is a common misconception, fueled by some gelcoat 
 manufacturers 
and by some expensive failures in the field, that gelcoat will not bond 
to epoxy. Polyester resin bonds poorly in a secondary (mechanical) 
bonding situation which consequently makes epoxy the resin of choice for 
repairs . How can 
one be squared with the other?


The answer is surprisingly simple - *gelcoat does bond to a properly 
cured and prepared epoxy surface*. There are a couple issues to be aware 
of to have success making this repair. There are three situations that 
cause gelcoat to not cure over epoxy... all related to the hardener 
chemistry. Epoxy hardeners are basically a blend of amines, which can 
terminate the chain reaction of the radical molecule that is the basis 
of polyester (and vinylester) cure chemistry. So by carefully mixing, 
curing, and preparing of the epoxy so that there are no unreacted amines 
to interfere with the gelcoat cure, gelcoat bonds quite well to epoxy.


The first situation is _undercured epoxy_. Gelcoat applied to undercured 
epoxy will be in contact with unreacted amines and the cure will be halted.


The second situation is if the epoxy is mixed _off ratio_ so that it is 
hardener rich, again leaving unreacted amines free to interfere.


Third is the issue of _amine blush_, commonly called blush. Blush is a 
surface phenomena that is a reaction of the amine molecules at the 
surface with the carbon dioxide in the air. It forms easiest in the 
presence of moisture, so working in cool, humid environments will 
maximize the formation of blush. Any amine hardener has the potential to 
blush, but it can be minimized by careful choices of amines in the 
formulation. In fact, WEST SYSTEM 207 Special coating hardener is one of 
the lowest blushing hardeners on the market and still maintains 
structural properties on par with our other hardeners. Regardless of 
chemistry, blush is very easily dealt with because it is water 
 soluble. A simple 
wash with clear water 
 removes the blush. 
No soap, no solvents. Then sand that washed surface with 80 grit paper 
to provide the gelcoat with sufficient key so it won't run. Be sure to 
use non-air inhibited gelcoat that has a paraffin wax added. Gelcoat is 
applied over epoxy on a routine basis everyday in boatyards 
 that are aware 
of these issues.
*Bruce Niederer*, Technical Services West System Inc. 
http://www.westsystem.com/ 



See also the articles at:
http://www.epoxyworks.com/indexprojects.html 



On 7/6/2015 11:42 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


Polyester resin doesn’t stick too well to anything except uncured 
polyester resin.


That’s why Gougeon’s recommend epoxy for fiberglass repair.  Well, 
that, and they sell it, of course.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMVCwhz_hY4

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

Erie PA

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Fred Hazzard via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, July 05, 2015 1:57 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Fred Hazzard
*Subject:* Stus-List Damage to fibreglas

I put a hole in several layers of fibreglas about a foot above the 
waterline in the side of my boat.  As it may take some time before 
repairs are made, Â should I seal the glass to prevent water from 
getting in the layup?  If so what should I use?


Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

They were forced to do that after several years of budget cut after 
budget cut. They got to the point where no matter how smart they worked, 
they just no longer had enough people and resources to get the job done.


Bill Bina

On 7/9/2015 3:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Don't recall anybody mentioning it but renewal of your USCG 
documentation is no longer free.  It's $26 now.


Just got my notice.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

As always, it is best to delay adopting any new operating system as long 
as possible unless it does something your present operating system 
doesn't do that YOU NEED. The longer you wait, the more problems will 
have been fixed. Their are a lot of "gotchas", especially with hardware 
support. Will you need to buy a new GPS puck, wifi antenna, scanner, 
etc? If you have a laptop that had pretty much the minimum specs for 
your current operating system that it came with, how will it perform 
with a new operating system that requires a lot more horsepower to run 
at the same speed?


Bill Bina


On 8/6/2015 11:47 AM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List wrote:

Bill:
Here’s an excellent article on how to opt out of many of the privacy 
violations:

http://www.slate.com/articles/technology/bitwise/2015/08/windows_10_privacy_problems_here_s_how_bad_they_are_and_how_to_plug_them.html
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
*From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, August 06, 2015 11:22 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

Or this,

More than 14 million devices 
 
are already running Microsoft’s Windows 10 after its global launch 
 
on Wednesday, but it’s unclear how many of their users read the 
company’s Privacy Policy 
 and 
Service Agreement 
 
before downloading. Tucked away in the 45 pages’ worth 
of terms and 
conditions (effective August 1 
) 
is a substantial power grab: The company is collecting data on much of 
what you do while using its new software.


From the moment an account is created, Microsoft begins watching. The 
company saves customers’ basic information—name, contact details, 
passwords, demographic data and credit card specifics —but it also 
digs a bit deeper.


Other information Microsoft saves includes Bing search queries and 
conversations with the new digital personal assistant Cortana; 
contents of private communications such as email; websites and apps 
visited (including features accessed and length of time used); and 
contents of private folders. Furthermore, “your typed and handwritten 
words are collected,” the Privacy Statement 
 says, 
which many online observers 
liken 
to 
a 
keylogger . 
Microsoft says they collect the information “to provide you a 
personalized user dictionary, help you type and write on your device 
with better character recognition, and provide you with text 
suggestions as you type or write.”


All this information doesn’t necessarily remain with just Microsoft. 
The company says 
 it 
uses the data collected for three purposes: to provide and improve its 
services; to send customers personalized promotions; and to display 
targeted advertising, which sometimes requires the information be 
shared with third parties. Microsoft mentions that though it assigns 
each customer a unique advertising ID, which is fed data during 
computer usage, it “does not use what you say in email, chat, video 
calls or voice mail, or your documents, photos or other personal files 
to target ads to you.” It makes no such promise for its other stated 
data collection purposes.


Bill Coleman

My take on Windows: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qMXpyxW2lkk/hqdefault.jpg


All the best,

Edd

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Aug 6, 2015, at 9:18 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I installed Windows 10 onto my Lenovo laptop with Win 7,  Install
was flawless. Made sure that OpenCPN runs as well as Office apps. 
The new browser will import bookmarks from another browser in

seconds.  I did not have a chance to play with it much, but first
look is very positive.

-- 


Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Practical Sailor C&C 33

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

paywall

On 8/19/2015 10:55 AM, PME via CnC-List wrote:
There is a nice article in Practical Sailor's September issue 
(available online) on the C&C 33 mark II.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL






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Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

If this tank has not been refilled in a long time, there are two things 
to check... Does it have a triangular knob on the valve? That indicates 
that the valve is equipped with the MANDATORY overfill prevention device 
(OPD). Also look for a manufacturing date stamped on the tank indicating 
it's age. Over 12 years, or without the overfill prevention, it is 
illegal to fill the tank.


Bill Bina

On 8/20/2015 8:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Yep, propane.  Liquefied Propane Gas to be exact.  A grill tank should 
cost about $10-12 to get filled.  From empty. Try to find a place that 
will only charge you for the amount you buy by weight.  Some places 
just charge a flat fee regardless of how much was left in your tank 
before filling.  My local ACE Hardware has good prices and only 
charges for what it took to fill me up.  I think the standard grill 
tanks are 20# and the little green ones for your lanters are 1#.  A 
lot of the aluminum marine grade tanks are about half that.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 20, 2015 8:09 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I think this was covered in the past, but I'm getting older and I
forgot the answer.

In my 37+, I have a tank labelled LPG for my stove. I need to get
it refilled.

Is this propane? The same propane used for bbq grills? Or is LPG
something a little different?


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.332.4400   | Office
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Theoretical hull speed is not a limit, it is a "sweet-spot". You can go 
faster, but it takes exponentially more effort to do so. An example of 
this is that when motoring in calm water, you reach hull speed with the 
motor running at 1/4 throttle. To gain maybe .5 - 1 more knot of speed, 
you must increase the engine to full throttle.


Also be aware of the difference between SOG and STW.

Bill Bina

On 8/25/2015 12:39 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Nat Herreshoff spoke at my YC when I was a kid.  He said he did not 
believe in hull speed as a limit.  More sail or more wind equals more 
speed.
I was doing more than hull speed (7.3) while cruising on a reach last 
weekend and have done over 8 knots in flat water with the chute.


Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 12:27 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


‎It's theoretical - in real life you can push it a bit!

sam :-)
*From: *Indigo via CnC-List
*Sent: *Tuesday, August 25, 2015 10:24 AM
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *Indigo
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!


According to the formula 1.34 x square root of lwl the theoretical
max speed of my 35mkIII with an lwl of 28ft is 7.06 knots.  I'd
love to know how to get it going at higher speeds without surfing
down the back of a wave!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Aug 25, 2015, at 08:55, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


8 knots in a C&C 26 with no current on a reach with white sails
in 12 knots of wind?   Sounds more like a 30 one design.   Jerry.
C&C 27 V J&J.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2015, at 12:15 AM, David Donnelly via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I will preface this by saying I consider myself a beginner hack
sailor.

I have often thought about trading my 135 for a 110. The 26 is
tender for sure and I get plenty of grief from my bride whenever
we go past 20 degrees. I often furl or reef the main when she is
on board, and although performance increases the more upright we
get, pointing is severely reduced. My favorite sailplan for over
12 kts is reefed main and full genoa. I do think my boat feels
right at 20 to 25 degrees hard on the wind. I have found a
bubble in the main to be faster when the wind picks up. Again, a
hack playing and watching the speed.

I have a harken traveler and I do have a split and adjustable
backstay.

I have never acheived the speeds you get. I saw over 7.3 kts
once on the display while reaching but as I keep a Navionics log
on my tablet as well it showed only 6.9 per the gps so I count
that as my max speed.

When I get new sails I am getting a 110 and perhaps 2 reefs in
my main instead of the one I currently have. I think we're on
the same page.

David Donnelly
C&C 26 Mistress

Sent from my Samsung device


 Original message 
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 08-24-2015 8:34 PM (GMT-07:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my
thoughts on optimizing my sail plan.

Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I
thought we’d play around with the sail plan.

Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I see the
occasional whitecap it’s around 10kn)

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2
seasons). A Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from
Leiche & McBride in Vancouver (5 seasons).

I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars;
Harken traveller; Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay
adjuster)

The C&C 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn
beating to windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the
outhaul reduced heel a bit. (speed measured with a Speed Puck)

Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward
of the spreaders so no interference.

Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn –
6.4kn. Went up to 7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hull
speed is 6.2kn) No bubble in the luff of the main.

Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting great and the
starboard tack was better than port tack. On a beam reach I
think she’d do 7kn or 8kn regularly.

So here’s my thoughts:

I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if that’s
not practical (...and I suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.

Eventually a new laminate main will 

Re: Stus-List SOS light flare replacement

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Controlled testing has proven that flares gradually lose ignition/launch 
reliability, and burn time as they age. Old flares may not fly as high, 
burn as bright, or have other deficits. It is not an arbitrary 
punishment intended to make flare manufacturers wealthy. I'm pretty sure 
milk has a much shorter shelf life than flares...


Bill Bina

On 8/27/2015 12:35 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Marek,

I too like the idea of having the approved light and day marker as 
qualifiers to the regulation and keeping a stock of flares aboard. My 
recent kit of flares were manufactured in July, four years ago. That 
means an extra $120 spent to go sailing that I could have used to buy 
beer. :)


I would like to know how the pointy heads came up with a "best before 
date" of 4 years for these things. It's not milk for crying out loud!


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1



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Re: Stus-List OpenCPN question

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

TigerDirect.com currently has somewhat newer refurbed toughbooks (off of 
lease) with 4 gb Ram and Windows 7  for under $400. These were over $4k 
new. They are basically indesdructible and the screen is viewable in 
direct sunlight. If you accidentally spill your entire beer on the 
keyboard, just rinse it off with a bucket full of fresh water to keep it 
from getting gummy.


Bill Bina

On 9/9/2015 1:18 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Just a thought...
If you can use a 386/Win 98 for OpenCPN, one option to consider, if 
you want to be somewhat immune to the water damage etc. is a second 
hand ToughBook by Panasonic. They can be had for around $200-$300 (the 
older, the cheaper). I have one that has an older Pentium in it and 
runs Win XP. The model I have seems to come from some law enforcement 
agency. The best source for them is a local “Computers for Schools” 
programme. Companies give them away after 3-5 years in service and the 
CfS can’t off-load them that easily. Those PCs are fully ruggedized 
and are water resistant (if not water proof). Many come with touch 
screen, which might be a bonus when used for navigation.
I don’t use mine for navigation; I have a chartplotter for that and I 
don’t need one where I sail. So I cannot really vouch how good they 
would be. But this might be something to consider.

Marek
in Ottawa
*From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, September 09, 2015 12:15 PM
*To:* mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List OpenCPN question

I find OpenCPN better than SeaClear in almost every way. SeaClear has 
not been worked on for many years and OpenCPN is in constant 
development. What SeaClear is great for is old low powered computers. 
My nav laptop is an old IBM Thinkpad 386 running Windows 98. SeaClear 
is quite fast on it and OpenCPN is a bit slow. I did not try and use 
the same chart directory for each program, even that old thing has 
room for 2 copies.


One OpenCPN disappointment was the ENC charts. I found the rendering 
so horrible I just could not stand it and stuck with the BSB format. 
The ENC charts were the original reason I got OpenCPN, but now I am 
used to the tides, currents, and more AIS options I generally have 
stuck with it. The Navionics program on my iPhone is vastly better at 
doing vector based charts. Speaking of which, if you have a device 
that run Navionics it is well worth the low price they charge for it 
in the App Store.


Hint for reliable nav PCs: Do not use it for ANYTHING else and NEVER 
connect it to the internet.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Joel Aronson via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, September 09, 2015 11:58 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Joel Aronson
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List OpenCPN question

Dennis,

Install OpenCPN and then tell it where the charts are.

The plugins for tides, currents, weather are great!  I have not used 
the weather routing plug in.


BTW, the developers seem to hang out on cruisersforum.com 
. There are many helpful threads these.  We 
used OpenCpn at the nav table to/from Newport.


Joel

On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 11:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I was looking at the OpenCPN website, it looks nice and may have more 
functionality than Seaclear.  My question is: I already have the NOAA 
BSB charts I want downloaded and in a folder on the laptops.  Can I 
download OpenCPN and copy the charts into its chart folder?  Or does 
OpenCPN allow me to point it to the Seaclear chart folder?



(BTW, I have wy too many GPS units!  In addition to Navionics on 2 
iPhones and 2 Android tablets, I have Seaclear on a couple of laptops 
with a GlobalSat BU-353 GPS adaptor.  All work great but are primarily 
backups to the Chartplotter at the helm and text only GPS at the 
navstation.  Also have a handheld GPS and a VHF with GPS. That's a 
total of 10 GPS units.  Sheesh!)


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


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--

Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter? Now Anchor Alarms

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I tried Drag Queen after hearing good reviews. I found a free one called 
Anchor Lite that I like a whole lot better.


Bill Bina

On 9/9/2015 1:47 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


Drag Queen for both by Active Captain

Bill Coleman

C&C 39  Erie PA

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, September 09, 2015 1:06 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Kevin Driscoll
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

Which brings up another topic...anchor alarm apps for phone or tablet! 
There are many available and they do not use any power and do not need 
to be connected to cell service! (Though your plotter is probably 
fairly efficient Andrew)





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