Re: [Elecraft] K1 frequency off by 5.5kHz

[W3FPR]

Chris,

Look in the K1 manual (download if you do not have a printed version) 
for VFO calibration.
This requires you to spread or shrink the turns on L1.  Check the number 
of turns on L1 to be certain they are correct.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2024 4:24 PM, Chris wrote:

Hello,

I picked up a K1-4 at a hamfest today, and it seems working fine with one
issue. The frequency is off by 5.5kHz. Can someone guide me how to correct
this?



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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[Mike Short]

Thank you for the clarification.

On Sun, Jun 30, 2024 at 19:37 W3FPR  wrote:

> Mike,
>
> It will not make any difference as long as all the band components
> (crystal, capacitors, and toroids) are correct for each band.
> While it is nice to have the lower band as B1 and the upper band as B2,
> it is not necessary, just set each band to agree with the low/upper band
> frequency in the menu.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2024 4:44 PM, Mike Short wrote:
> > I have a partially assembled 20/40 kit I acquired. The directions say to
> > have band 1 the lowest frequency but this one is reversed. 20 is band 1
> and
> > 40 is band 2. What may be the issues with leaving it like this?
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[W3FPR]

Mike,

It will not make any difference as long as all the band components 
(crystal, capacitors, and toroids) are correct for each band.
While it is nice to have the lower band as B1 and the upper band as B2, 
it is not necessary, just set each band to agree with the low/upper band 
frequency in the menu.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2024 4:44 PM, Mike Short wrote:

I have a partially assembled 20/40 kit I acquired. The directions say to
have band 1 the lowest frequency but this one is reversed. 20 is band 1 and
40 is band 2. What may be the issues with leaving it like this?


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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[Michael Carter via Elecraft]

Hi Mike,

Can you verify if the correct coils were installed
on the filter board in the Band 1 and Band 2 positions?
Same question for the two crystals used in the PreMix
oscillator?

73,
Mike, K8CN
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Andrew Moore]

> but why when you have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs
to the K1.

That, of course, is subjective.

Owned the KX2 and KX3, great rigs but sold them. No interest in the KH1.
Re-acquired a K1 a few days ago.

73 NV1B
..


On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 10:50 PM Paul Van Dyke 
wrote:

> This was slightly tongue in cheek as I remembered that, but i've seen a
> whole lot of people yelling about K1's lately.
>
> If older equipment was good, then we'd all be using AC1's... I'm now going
> to see how many remember that particular transmitter.
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 10:35 PM Mark Musick  wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> > I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason
> > Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I
> > remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
> > You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you
> > have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.
> >
> > 73,
> > Mark, WB9CIF
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  >
> > On Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
> > Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
> > To: Paul Huff 
> > Cc: Elecraft Email List 
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...
> >
> > Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
> > the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy
> of
> > the K1 today??
> >
> > Paul KB9AVO
> >
> > On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:
> >
> > > My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> > > in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> > > first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> > > shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> > > absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> > > because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> > > portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> > > after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> > > "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> > > gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> > > middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> > > getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> > > since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> > > still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> > > probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
> > >
> > > I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> > > prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
> > >
> > > 73,
> > > Paul - N8XMS
> > >
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
> > > Home:
> > > http://mailma/
> > > n.qth.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Felecraft&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cd400bcf421
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Van Dyke]

This was slightly tongue in cheek as I remembered that, but i've seen a
whole lot of people yelling about K1's lately.

If older equipment was good, then we'd all be using AC1's... I'm now going
to see how many remember that particular transmitter.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 10:35 PM Mark Musick  wrote:

> Paul,
> I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason
> Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I
> remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
> You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you
> have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.
>
> 73,
> Mark, WB9CIF
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
> Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
> To: Paul Huff 
> Cc: Elecraft Email List 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...
>
> Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
> the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of
> the K1 today??
>
> Paul KB9AVO
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:
>
> > My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> > in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> > first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> > shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> > absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> > because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> > portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> > after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> > "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> > gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> > middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> > getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> > since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> > still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> > probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
> >
> > I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> > prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
> >
> > 73,
> > Paul - N8XMS
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home:
> > http://mailma/
> > n.qth.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Felecraft&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cd400bcf421
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Mark Musick]

Paul,
I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason 
Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I 
remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you have 
the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.

73,
Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
To: Paul Huff 
Cc: Elecraft Email List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of the 
staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of the K1 
today??

Paul KB9AVO

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:

> My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
>
> I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>
> __
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> Home:
> http://mailma/
> n.qth.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Felecraft&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cd400bcf421
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> pMIejjXKVSaAPMMmhsertDkwArRbMGwj2Q%3D&reserved=0
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> http://mailma/
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> This list hosted by:
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Van Dyke]

Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of
the K1 today??

Paul KB9AVO

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:

> My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for portable
> ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago, after
> getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and "simplify" the
> shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other gear, to an ARC
> in my area that runs some public school clubs for middle and high school
> students.  I almost immediately regretted getting rid of the K1, but
> take some comfort in knowing that it has since been used to encourage
> young people to get into the hobby.  (I still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and
> have an order in for a KH1, and will probably leave those for my heirs
> to donate!)
>
> I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Huff]

My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift 
in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its 
first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a 
shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an 
absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was 
because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for portable 
ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago, after 
getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and "simplify" the 
shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other gear, to an ARC 
in my area that runs some public school clubs for middle and high school 
students.  I almost immediately regretted getting rid of the K1, but 
take some comfort in knowing that it has since been used to encourage 
young people to get into the hobby.  (I still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and 
have an order in for a KH1, and will probably leave those for my heirs 
to donate!)


I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting 
prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!


73,
Paul - N8XMS

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Byron Servies]

I plan to take both my K1/4 and K2/10 out for Field Day this year. Should be 
fun!

The K1 was my first kit after I realized I was not accomplishing the goals I 
set out when I got my license. So I sold my "appliances" and built the K1 in 
2010? About then. At the time, it was a bit daunting, but tuning it by 
adjusting the winding on that 1 toroid was a revelation. And I began to learn 
CW.

That pushed me to build a K2, and all the options. Such a great experience. 
Both radios are amazing.

Of course, my K3 is better in every measurable. But it always feels a bit .. 
uninspiring?  It's like carbon Trek bikes in the 2000's: the best tool for the 
local criterium racing job, but not a pleasure to ride.

Discontinuing the K1 was understandable. Difficult to maintain and likely 
unprofitable. The K2 is Elecraft's heritage and I am very happy they move 
mountains to keep it going. But it's still very sad, as the K1 is a delight.

73. Byron N6NUL

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024, at 12:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

> While running in Field Day a number of years ago with Rich, NU6T, I had 
> my K2/10 and he had his K1.  Part way through the day, we exchanged 
> radios since I'd never seen a K1 and I found out what a really cool 
> little radio that really is.  Nothing digital except the display, it 
> just really sounded great.  I noticed that strong signals would "pull" 
> the frequence just perceptibly which was a little like a signal with a 
> slight chirp.  Almost never heard anymore but somehow a little comforting.
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW - CWops #142
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
> Petr Ourednik wrote on 4/22/2024 1:47 AM:
> > The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
> > Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!
> >
> > ...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are 
> > missing on the market
> > and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
> > I am still convinced that K1 has one of the best and quietest receivers.
> >
> > 73 - Petr, OK1RP
> > http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
> > K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
> > __
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73, Byron N6NUL
-- 
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- CU in the Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2024
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Fred Jensen]

While running in Field Day a number of years ago with Rich, NU6T, I had 
my K2/10 and he had his K1.  Part way through the day, we exchanged 
radios since I'd never seen a K1 and I found out what a really cool 
little radio that really is.  Nothing digital except the display, it 
just really sounded great.  I noticed that strong signals would "pull" 
the frequence just perceptibly which was a little like a signal with a 
slight chirp.  Almost never heard anymore but somehow a little comforting.




73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW - CWops #142
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Petr Ourednik wrote on 4/22/2024 1:47 AM:

The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!

...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are missing 
on the market
and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
I am still convinced that K1 has one of the best and quietest receivers.

73 - Petr, OK1RP
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band

[W3FPR]

Paul,

Yes, it does sound like your 4 band filter board needs to be re-aligned.
Remove the KAT1 and install the jumper.
In addition, you must set the switch next to the BNC connector to the K1 
setting in order to maintain power control.
If you do not have that switch, then you have an older K1 board and you 
must re-attach R36 on the bottom of the RF Board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/12/2023 5:06 AM, Paul Barlow wrote:

Dear Elecrafters,

I'd like some advice before I go delving into something and making it worse! I have 
taken my 4 band K1 out of storage. It is set up for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m. It also 
has the auto ATU. On checking it out I find output as expected on 40m & 30m - 
5W set gives 5W out on my dummy load. But on 20m I'm only getting about 1W out for 
5W set, on 15m I get an indicated 4W.

My first guess is that I need to revisit the tuning of the trimmers on the 
filter board of the 15m and 20m (the manual reminds me to trim 15m first) bands.

I need to remove the ATU to do this and I find in my manual a cryptic note to 
say I need to move a jumper on P3. I think that will then route the RF to the 
antenna rather than to the not connected ATU.

Any more advice would be helpful before I dive in.

73,

Paul EI5KI


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band

[Michael Carter]

Hi Paul,

It does sound as though the slug-tuned inductors
on the 20 meter and 15 meter sections of the
Filter board need tweaking.  As you noted, one
must remove the KAT1 ATU board from the
Filter board to access those coils.  It is necessary
to jumper pins 2 and 10 of J2 on the Filter board
to route RF to the antenna connector.  Once you've
done that you can proceed with the alignment
as described in the manual.

73,
Mike, K8CN
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[Ingo Meyer DK3RED]

Hello Dave,



I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output 
before listing it.  Power output is as follows:

40 meters 5.2 watts
30 meters 4.5 watts
20 meters   1.3 watts
17 meters 0.7 watts

These are obviously not the expected power output levels.  Power supply voltage 
= 12.8 volts.  Output set to 7 in the menu.

What type of fault would this indicate?


All components for the filters for 40 meters and 30 meters filters are located between 
same contacts sides of K5A/K5B and K6A/K6B. The components for 20 meters and 17 meters are 
located all on the other sides of these relais contacts.


I therefore advise you to check the contacts of these relays as a first step. If you have 
switched the K1 to 40 meters or 30 meters, zero ohms should be measurable with an ohmmeter 
across the contact.



73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[DAVID MOORMAN]

Numbers using the Elecraft 20 watt dummy load rather than resonated antennas:

40 M   4.8 W
30 M   5.5 W
20 M2.0 W
15 M1.7 W

Dave  K9SW


> On May 11, 2023, at 6:52 PM, DAVID MOORMAN  wrote:
> 
> I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output 
> before listing it.  Power output is as follows:
> 
> 40 meters 5.2 watts
> 30 meters 4.5 watts
> 20 meters 1.3 watts
> 17 meters 0.7 watts
> 
> These are obviously not the expected power output levels.  Power supply 
> voltage = 12.8 volts.  Output set to 7 in the menu.  
> 
> What type of fault would this indicate?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave  K9SW
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[Vincent Shu]

Hello David,

The same issue also exists in my two K1. Waiting for help
73,

Vincent BH5HTF
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and KX3 for sale

[Randall Wood]

The K1 is sold.

On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 9:53 PM Randall Wood  wrote:

> Good evening all,
>
> I have both a K1 and a KX3 for sale.
>
> Please reach out for details.
>
> Thanks!
> Randy KE8JWB
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 accessories

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

That is quite feasible - getting a board is the starting problem.

If you can find a 2 band board for any band(s), you can order the 
crystals for the bands you want from Elecraft.
They may also have the K1 band kits in stock which have the capacitors 
required for that band.  Worst case, you may have to order the 
capacitors separately if Elecraft no longer has the K1 band kits.
If Elecraft no longer has the crystals, you may have to order custom 
crystals - they must be fundamental mode crystals - overtone mode will 
not work properly.
See the K1 band kit instructions for the components required. Download 
the instructions from Elecraft website.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/1/2022 7:50 PM, Chris Chapman wrote:

Hello all,

I've been able to buy a K1 here in VK.  It is in excellent condition (Ser. No 3380) 
and has 20 & 40m only.

I know Elecraft stopped supporting some time ago and accessories etc are pretty much 
discontinued.  I'm interested in getting 15 & 17m band modules - can anyone offer any 
thoughts on where I might ask around - or advertise a "wanted"  Other than 
eHam.net.

Thanks in advance,

Chris VK3QB
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Sounds pretty similar to what I did.  The white rectangle in my photo is a 
piece of white sticker vinyl stuck to the PCB under the area where the LCD 
mounts  The two LEDs were sanded down with a Dremel tool and sanding drum to 
get the light to diffuse and also to make them small enough to shine behind the 
LCD panel.  The two LEDs and a 680ohm current limiting resistor are all wired 
in series and draw a total of ~12ma off the 12V supply.  Parts and wires are 
held in place by dabs of hot glue. 

Here's a closeup of an original and modified LED. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vsf64g05jgc4mbl/100_0054.JPG?dl=0




On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 11:09:25 AM MST, David Gilbert 
 wrote:  
 
 
I made my own backlight for my K1 before the Elecraft version came out.  
It was actually more of a sidelight, but it works fine.  I took a white 
LED, sanded the plastic case to make it more diffusive, and fed it off 
the 12 volt buss with a current source made from a gate-source connected 
FET.  It wasn't difficult to do.

I don't remember which FET I used, but an LM334 (very inexpensive TO-92 
current source IC) and a 1/4 watt resistor would work even better, and 
today's LEDs are certainly much brighter than the ones I had available 
back when I did this.  Better choice of colors as well.  ;)

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/4/2021 8:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Ken,
>
> The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
> the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 
> strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>>   Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
>> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>>
>> Ken
>> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[David Gilbert]

I made my own backlight for my K1 before the Elecraft version came out.  
It was actually more of a sidelight, but it works fine.  I took a white 
LED, sanded the plastic case to make it more diffusive, and fed it off 
the 12 volt buss with a current source made from a gate-source connected 
FET.  It wasn't difficult to do.


I don't remember which FET I used, but an LM334 (very inexpensive TO-92 
current source IC) and a 1/4 watt resistor would work even better, and 
today's LEDs are certainly much brighter than the ones I had available 
back when I did this.  Better choice of colors as well.  ;)


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/4/2021 8:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 
strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:

  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I did a backlight on my K1 ~20 years ago that worked out well. The key was 
getting a transreflective LCD panel so the light would show through. The 
original panel was opaque.  Here's a couple of pix:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pu01s46xylba2se/100_0047.JPG?dl=0 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6u7ggpfl65p9l4w/K1%20LCD%20LED%20sm.JPG?dl=0
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 09:00:13 AM MST, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>
> Ken
> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Don Wilhelm]

Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:

  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Mike Markowski]

Remember one of the early Elecraft web page descriptions?  Former 
Heathkit engineer (chief engr?, I forget) wrote a letter praising kit 
and radio.  An unbeatable ad!


73,

Mike ab3ap

On 11/30/21 8:50 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

...
The K1 is a great little rig.  I built the 2- band version, and then the
4-band filter board, with all options.  It still works like a champ.

73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Eric Norris]

I wish I could!  My vague memory is that Don Wilhelm pointed me to a couple
of mods.  A search of my emails didn't find any of Don's advice prior to
2017, and I think that is about 5 years short.

I suggest you google it, and check the Nabble archives.  The mods were
simple, changing a cap and perhaps a resistor value or something.

The K1 is a great little rig.  I built the 2- band version, and then the
4-band filter board, with all options.  It still works like a champ.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021, 4:10 PM Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Hi Eric.
>
> Can you be more specific about the mod that improved the KNB1? I know
> there were a few changes early on, but mine is from about 2010 so should
> have had all the official mods in the initial build. Other than the “make
> the threshold higher than it already is” mod, is there something else?
>
> Doug, W0UHU.
>
> > Message: 26
> > Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> > From: Eric Norris  norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> > To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> > Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net>>
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and
> >   working
> > Message-ID:
> >ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com <mailto:CAJSJeL23WBXMn_rWUqF6KRoGAF2yNBCu_JnH2k
> =ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com>>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> >
> > When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
> > vastly helped mine.
> >
> > 73 Eric WD6DBM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hi Eric.

Can you be more specific about the mod that improved the KNB1? I know there 
were a few changes early on, but mine is from about 2010 so should have had all 
the official mods in the initial build. Other than the “make the threshold 
higher than it already is” mod, is there something else?

Doug, W0UHU.

> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> From: Eric Norris mailto:norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  <mailto:ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and
>   working
> Message-ID:
><mailto:CAJSJeL23WBXMn_rWUqF6KRoGAF2yNBCu_JnH2k=ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
> vastly helped mine.
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Eric Norris]

When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
vastly helped mine.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021, 7:50 PM Ken Brown  wrote:

> I am looking to buy an already built Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
> The pulse noise from the nearby power lines makes the Elecraft K1
> not very usable at this location.
>
> Ken
> N4SO
> E-mail  redscarlette7...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Reduce power when tuning K1?

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

The reduced power is a consideration for the internal tuner relays, not 
just for the PA transistors.
If you have the internal tuner installed, that power reduction is 
automatic.  For the K2/10, it is 2 watts and for the K1 it is 1.5 watts.

If you are using an external tuner, then manually reduce the power.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 8/30/2021 12:23 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about 
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1 
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a 
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two of 
them in a push-pull configuration that can put out more power and can work with 
SSB. But at 5 watts, I would think the K2 transistors would be less stressed 
than the K1’s.

Is it worth manually setting the K1 power down to a lower level when tuning, in 
order to avoid power transistor problems? Both my radios have the internal 
tuner options.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
The link in the email you sent is similar to what I did.  It did not work with 
the original LCD.   Putting a white sheet behind the original LCD did nothing 
as it was opaque. I had to get a transreflective one, the key here is it's 
translucent to permit back-lighting.  It was long ago and I don't have the info 
where I got it.  IDK, but it is possible that production switched to using the 
transreflective type at some point.  I'll pm you some pix. 

Lou W7HV

On Sunday, May 16, 2021, 8:09:37 AM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 > On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft  
 > wrote:
> 
> If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
> before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, 
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
> transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back 
> then. 


Morning Lou,

I looked on the Elecraft site and the part number for the transreflective LCD 
is E600015. A search for that part number on the site turned up nothing. So 
they don’t appear to be stocking that part anymore. 

If someone reading the reflector knows the source for that part, I will see if 
I can find one. If not, I found this approach — https://bit.ly/3fgvtL2 — to 
adding a backlight to a built K1. With a little tinkering, the latter should 
work as well.

Thanks Lou!

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[David Thompson via Elecraft]

> On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
> before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, 
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
> transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back 
> then. 


Morning Lou,

I looked on the Elecraft site and the part number for the transreflective LCD 
is E600015. A search for that part number on the site turned up nothing. So 
they don’t appear to be stocking that part anymore. 

If someone reading the reflector knows the source for that part, I will see if 
I can find one. If not, I found this approach — https://bit.ly/3fgvtL2 — to 
adding a backlight to a built K1. With a little tinkering, the latter should 
work as well.

Thanks Lou!

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, two 
leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back then. 
I tried the mod with original LCD and it didn't work  IDK if later ones came 
standard with the transreflective LCD.  If you have or can get a 
transreflective LCD, I'd be happy to describe the mod and email some photos 
that detail the mod and show the results.
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, May 15, 2021, 8:14:08 PM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Good evening all,

I’m looking for a LCD backlight kit for the K1. I don’t see it listed on the 
Elecraft site anymore and am kicking myself for not picking one up sooner.

If anyone has a kit that is no longer needed, I would be interested. Please 
contact me off-list.

73 de AG7TX...

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net






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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Fred KF9GX at FAR Circuits does have them, they're four bucks each plus 3.50 
for shipping up to ten. (Possibly more outside the US.) Thanks Don for pointing 
this out!



I believe it's the SMD version which is fun to assemble if you're a masochist! 
If someone gets around to ordering the parts to go along with the board, it 
would be great if they could post the list here. I believe the chip is obsolete 
but still available.



m...@farcircuits.net


Doug, W0UHU.



Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 13:32:47 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: k7...@aol.com, grazi...@roccon.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1
Message-ID: <8fc24f9f-1159-7d83-6c8a-0537bb48a...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available. Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards. An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though 
it.?http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73? ??Jim H??k7sss?In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes:
Hello,?someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it 
??Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Don Wilhelm]

Thanks Kent,

I already have that in my bookmarks and refer to it often.
Thanks to you and your club (especially Jim Biggerstaff) for maintaining 
the website contents.

There is a lot of value there, especially for K1 and K2 owners.
I also have much of the information here on my networked hard drive.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 3:53 PM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:

Hi Don . . .

For your future quick reference, and anybody else who might want it, 
the direct link to the NØSS (Tom Hammond) articles on our club's 
website is:


http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
NØSS Trustee
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, MO



On 10/15/2020 12:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom 
Hammond was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has 
preserved the content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits 
for his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[KENT TRIMBLE]

Hi Don . . .

For your future quick reference, and anybody else who might want it, the 
direct link to the NØSS (Tom Hammond) articles on our club's website is:


http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
NØSS Trustee
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, MO



On 10/15/2020 12:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom 
Hammond was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has 
preserved the content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits 
for his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


73,
Don W3FPR




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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have two of these kits, unbuilt. I never got around to installing one in my 
K2. I would be willing to let go of one of them...

Anybody know what they sold for back in '07 I guess?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 12:32 PM
To: k7...@aol.com ; grazi...@roccon.com ; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
> http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73Jim H  k7sss In a 
> message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> grazi...@roccon.com writes:
> Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
> the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
> Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Don Wilhelm]

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom Hammond 
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the 
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for 
his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73    Jim H  k7sss In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes:
Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Jim H via Elecraft]

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73    Jim H  k7sss In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes: 
Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[David Gilbert]

Not necessarily.  If the LED is shorted (admittedly a less likely 
possibility) it won't have any (or at least very little) voltage across 
it ... just as if its drive circuitry was bad.


Having been an engineer responsible for some LED product lines in the 
long distant past, I would say that the most likely faults would be an 
open LED (bad wire bond) or some fault in the drive circuitry, but a 
crystal fault could also cause a short in the LED.


73,
Dave   AB7E



On 7/9/2020 9:34 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That 
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.

Victor 4X6GP


On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM  wrote:

Good morning,
I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:

D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
solution is just change the led.

Thank you for your advice and assistance.

Al
W4RAM




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That 
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM  wrote:
> 
> Good morning,
> I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:
> 
> D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
> function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
> I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
> This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
> solution is just change the led.
> 
> Thank you for your advice and assistance.
> 
> Al
> W4RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

The quickest way to do the alignment is to use an RF Probe or an 
oscilloscope with a 10X probe.


First probe band board P1 pin 6 and peak for maximum RF on both bands. 
The can be done in receive.

Then connect a dummy load and do a TUNE at about 1.5 watts.
Connect a probe to band board P2 pin 8.  First on band 1, adjust L5 and 
L6 for a peak - then refine the adjustment of L1 and L2 to maximize that 
peak.
Do the same for Band 2 - adjust L7 and L8 for a peak, and then refine 
the adjustment of L3 and L4.


Do you have power output?  refine the adjustment of L7 and L8 on Band 2 
and adjusting for maximum power - an external QRP wattmeter is handy for 
that step.


Switch to Band 1 and refine the adjustment of L5 and L6 for maximum 
power output.


When you have done that, the band board has been aligned the best it can 
be.  If you still have a receive problem it is somewhere other than the 
band board.


I am not sure what you mean by "C2 Gain tweek" -- C2 is a fixed 
capacitor in the VFO.  If you meant C20, then that shifts the BFO, and 
it should be set to center the signal in your receive passband.
You can adjust C20 - while receiving your local signal, adjust the VFO 
to maximize the signal, without regard for the pitch (do this with the 
narrowest K1 filter set).  After doing that, adjust C20 so that you hear 
the signal at your preferred pitch.  Make sure the sidetone (in the 
menu) is set for that same pitch.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/20/2020 3:47 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Bert]

Hi Steve,

Is the problem on both 20 and 40? If only one band check the band
crystal on the filter board.

C2 on the filter board is a fixed cap - no tweaking! ;-)

Also check connectors J6 and J7 on filter board. Bad connection - use
some DeOxit5 cleaner.

Start with alignment according to the manual, if you haven't done that.

Good luck!

Bert VE3NR




On 2020-06-20 15:47, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6

I pulled the band board looking for any issues with soldering or whatever and 
found
nothing. Put the board back in and now I get zip. No receive at all, just 
hissing.

It was working fine yesterday although I felt the gain was very low and needed 
adjustment
which led me to this point in time.

Suggestions on how to get it going again?

73
Steve, W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measuring the inductance is not a good approach unless you have a way of 
measuring it at a specific frequency. The toroid material’s effect on the 
inductance of the finished coil varies with frequency, and most LC meters use a 
frequency below the HF range. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 30 May 2020, at 0:16, Paul Gacek via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> John
> 
> Fair question as to why not.
> 
> I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
> matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance. 
> 
> That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
> and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).
> 
> I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
> alignment, I’ll make the correction.
> 
> For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
> installing them.
> 
> Paul
> 
>> On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:
>> 
>> Why would you choose not correct a known error?
>> 
>> Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
>> problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
>> problem, you'll wonder
>> 
>> John AE5X
>> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
>> 
>>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

As far as measuring the inductances, the listed values are only average. 
 Count the toroid turns correctly and there will be no problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/29/2020 5:16 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance.

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul


On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:

Why would you choose not correct a known error?

Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
problem, you'll wonder

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com


Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

Yes, correct the turns count on T1 and T2 if necessary.
The impedance matching is important for full power output.

You are not the first to miscount the turns on a toroid (adding an extra 
turn).  Remember that a single wire through the core is one turn and a 
full wrap around the core is 2 turns.  That is especially important for 
the toroids in the LPF on the band board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/29/2020 5:16 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance.

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

Thanks all for the feedback.

T1 correction is now made and now off to make a cup of tea (there’s a Brit in 
me somewhere).

Paul Gacek
W6PNG/M0SNA
Www.nomadic.blog

> On May 29, 2020, at 1:51 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid 
> cores.  A straight wire thru the donut is one turn.  I can't answer your 
> question ["does it make a difference?"] because I don't have a K1, but I did 
> build a K2, and based on that, I think the answer is "Yes, it will make a 
> difference."
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 5/29/2020 12:49 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:
>> I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the 
>> filter board and front panel.
>> 
>> I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1.  I count a turn by 
>> tracing the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual 
>> page 14 states I should count a turn each time the wire passes through the 
>> center of the toroid which is 5.
>> 
>> As T1 is an impedance match (1:5?) will the “extra” turn make a huge 
>> difference?
>> 
>> Intuitively I would say yes as it’s 20% more turns by the page 14 method.
>> 
>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
>> 
>> Paul
>> W6PNG/M0SNA
>> www.nomadic.blog
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance. 

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul

> On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:
> 
> Why would you choose not correct a known error?
> 
> Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
> problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
> problem, you'll wonder
> 
> John AE5X
> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
> 
>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Fred Jensen]

You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid 
cores.  A straight wire thru the donut is one turn.  I can't answer your 
question ["does it make a difference?"] because I don't have a K1, but I 
did build a K2, and based on that, I think the answer is "Yes, it will 
make a difference."


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 5/29/2020 12:49 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the 
filter board and front panel.

I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1.  I count a turn by tracing 
the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual page 14 
states I should count a turn each time the wire passes through the center of 
the toroid which is 5.

As T1 is an impedance match (1:5?) will the “extra” turn make a huge difference?

Intuitively I would say yes as it’s 20% more turns by the page 14 method.

Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA
www.nomadic.blog



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[rocketnj]

Hi Don,

You nailed it. No output from the 15 MHz crystal. The other three bands are 
showing good output. I checked the relays K1 and K2 to verify each has pins 3 
to 4 conductivity when on 40 meters (set radio to 40 meters, power down, and 
remove filter board since relays are latching. One side of crystal checks good 
to ground and the other side checks good to P1 pin 4.

Ordered new 15 MHz crystal from Elecraft.

Thanks for the advice. Once I got the RF volt meter it took a few minutes to 
find the problem.

73 and thanks again!
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 2:37 PM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 70mV or 
more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope with a 10X probe.

A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be fancy, just 
stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and solder the leads 
together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) Elecraft does have a kit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi Don
>
> I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
> understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done 
> it several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes 
> better than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive 
> sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.
>
> I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the 
> turns and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. 
> Both T3 and T4 appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in 
> the box the radio was in so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on 
> the schematic T4 would most likely be the suspect (if it is the 
> transformer.)
>
> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly 
> help pinpoint the issue.
>
> 73
> Dave wo2x
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
> To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
>
> Dave,
>
> Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board. 
>  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
> before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power 
> output.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of 
>> my Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less 
>> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked 
>> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are 
>> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can 
>> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns 
>> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
>> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
>> (not seeing double peak).
>>
>>
>>
>> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set 
>> for
>> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
>>
>>
>>
>> >From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
>> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the 
>> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band 
>> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it 
>> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20 
>> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
>> the bottom of page 23.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an 
>> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would 
>> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my 
>> Elmer's widow 100%
>>


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Dave]

Thanks Don

I am borrowing a military surplus RF voltmeter with probe this afternoon. I was 
thinking the crystal also.  Not many parts in the circuit.

Thanks for the pointers.

73
Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

> On May 20, 2020, at 2:36 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
> Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 70mV 
> or more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope with a 10X 
> probe.
> 
> A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
> Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be fancy, 
> just stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and solder the 
> leads together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) Elecraft does 
> have a kit.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi Don
>> 
>> I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
>> understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done 
>> it several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes 
>> better than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive 
>> sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.
>> 
>> I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
>> and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
>> appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was 
>> in so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most 
>> likely be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)
>> 
>> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
>> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will 
>> greatly help pinpoint the issue.
>> 
>> 73
>> Dave wo2x
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Don Wilhelm 
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
>> To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
>> 
>> Dave,
>> 
>> Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter 
>> board.  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 
>> 40m, 15m before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for 
>> power output.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>> 
>>>   
>>> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
>>> Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less
>>> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked
>>> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are
>>> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can
>>> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns
>>> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
>>> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning 
>>> range (not seeing double peak).
>>> 
>>>   
>>> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for
>>> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
>>> 
>>>   
>>> >From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
>>> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the
>>> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band
>>> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it
>>> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20
>>> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual 
>>> at the bottom of page 23.
>>> 
>>>   
>>> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an
>>> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would
>>> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my
>>> Elmer's widow 100%
>>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Don Wilhelm]

There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 
70mV or more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope 
with a 10X probe.


A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be 
fancy, just stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and 
solder the leads together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) 
Elecraft does have a kit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Don

I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I understand 40 
is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done it several 
times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes better than 2 watts. 
The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down 
from 30 meter receive.

I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was in 
so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most likely 
be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)

I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter readings on 
the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly help pinpoint 
the issue.

73
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board.  
They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All,

   


I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less
sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked
the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are
correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can
cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns
on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
(not seeing double peak).

   


Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for
10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).

   


>From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the
relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band
filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it
active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20
operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
the bottom of page 23.

   


I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an
RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would
like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my
Elmer's widow 100%



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[rocketnj]

Hi Don

I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done it 
several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes better 
than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive sensitivity 
is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.

I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was in 
so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most likely 
be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)

I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly 
help pinpoint the issue.

73
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board.  
They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
>   
> 
> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my 
> Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less 
> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked 
> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are 
> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can 
> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns 
> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary. 
> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
> (not seeing double peak).
> 
>   
> 
> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for 
> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
> 
>   
> 
>>From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the 
> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band 
> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it 
> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20 
> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
> the bottom of page 23.
> 
>   
> 
> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an 
> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would 
> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my 
> Elmer's widow 100%
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter 
board.  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 
40m, 15m before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical 
for power output.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All,

  


I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less sensitivity
than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked the values of
components on the filter board to ensure they are correct and installed
correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can cause issues on 40. T3 has 23
turns on the secondary with three turns on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on
secondary and two turns on primary. Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap
seems to be at one end of tuning range (not seeing double peak).

  


Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for 10.1
MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).

  


From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".

When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the relays
to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band filter manual it
says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it active and looking at the
schematic K6 switches between 15/20 operation and 30/40 so I think there is
a typo in the filter board manual at the bottom of page 23.

  


I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an RF
probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would like to
get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my Elmer's widow
100%


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 issues with RIT and ATT Led's

[Stephen Roberts]

Several responded and it was a couple of things. First was that the main IC 
wasn't seated completely. I removed it, checked the pins and straightened them 
a bit. That apparently brought the LED's back to life so when I powered up I 
could see them initialize. Then I went to the menu and turned them on. Didn't 
even know there was a menu choice that controlled the LED's. Felt kinda dumb 
when I was told about that. Oh well, I'll take an easy fix any day...

Steve
W1SFR
w1sfr.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issues with RIT and ATTN LED's not functioning

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Those LEDs are activated by 2 pins on the MCU, but the actual activation 
of ATTN and RIT/XIT is done via the AUXBUS signalling.
Unless you know that they worked shortly before you bought it, I would 
suggest that it may have been unused for some time.


On the chance that the problem is caused by oxidation on the pins of the 
MCU/socket, I suggest that you remove and reseat the MCU IC.  It is on 
the Front Panel board, and is the only socketed IC in the K1.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/6/2020 7:10 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN don't 
function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle correctly then go 
out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the RIT or ATTN on, neither of 
the lights come on.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Dennis,

excellent job. Many thanks for sharing it.
Can you advise which direction on the bed is recommended in slicer please?
I am asking as the orientation on the printing plate will be most important
for supports...

Thanks,
Petr




-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

[EricJ]

Very nice. I went a less imaginative direction. A replica of the 
original K1 stand.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/1WMjCbeJmLmmJRKf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7FnAUmqgtPQy5ft6

Didn't think it was appropriate to post on Thingiverse as it's a copy of 
a proprietary design. I did it as a learning exercise the first week or 
so I had the printer. I already have an original one (hi).


Eric KE6US

On 10/5/2019 2:31 PM, Denis Dimick wrote:

Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950

73's
Denis
KC6AUP


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 20m power out

[Don Wilhelm]

Lloyd,

The first thing you should do is adjust the Pre-mixer and RF Bandpass 
filters for the 20 meter band.  See the K1 manual for the adjustment 
procedure.


If that does not bring the output up to at least 5 watts (when using a 
13.8 volt or greater power source), then suspect the 22MHz crystal used 
for the 20 meter mixer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/9/2019 9:14 PM, LL wrote:

I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. It puts out 6W on 40m, but
only one watt on 20m, measured with a WM-2 and a dummy load... and the
display on the rig. Internal ATU installed. 13+V supply.

What to check first? etc.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 20m power out

[Mike Morrow]

> I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. 
> It puts out 6W on 40m, but only one watt on 20m,
> measured with a WM-2...

The most likely problem is misalignment of band 2 of the KFL1-2.  Perform a 
realignment of the 20m portion per the K1 manual.

Don't waste too much time optimizing the settings of the KFL1-2 for maximum 
receiver sensitivity.  The same inductances must be adjusted for maximum 
transmitter power output, and those adjustments are far far more critical.

OR...for a direct simple shortcut, put the K1 on 20m in TUNE mode and peak L3, 
L4, L7, and L8 for maximum power output.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

[Tom Johnson]

Thanks, Don!  73, KQ7TJ



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

[Tom Johnson]

Thank you!

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:28 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place.  Just
> put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
> manual.  The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or
> can
> > I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place.  Just 
put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original 
manual.  The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

[David Gilbert]

Before a backlight kit was ever available for the K1 from Elecraft, I 
built my own and was able to position it at the side of the LCD without 
tearing everything apart.  I used a single white LED, and if I remember 
correctly I filed the face of the LED plastic body to make the light 
scatter better.  I used a FET connected as a series current limiter to 
give a few milliamps of current, and picked up a switched 12 volt from 
somewhere on the circuit board.  It works fine.


Dave   AB7E



On 7/6/2019 3:53 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it 
was not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will 
most likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it 
is to cut the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a 
time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be 
certain both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 
are available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:
The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt 
kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, 
somewhere...?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

[Jessie Oberreuter]

 If not, you might still be able to source the relevant parts.  I made 
mine before the official kit existed by ordering parts from Mouser.  Mine 
has a red backlight instead of the Elecraft green :).  -kb7psg


On Sat, 6 Jul 2019, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it was 
not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will most 
likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it is to cut 
the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be certain 
both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 are available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:

The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

[Don Wilhelm]

Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it 
was not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will most 
likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it is to 
cut the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be 
certain both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 are 
available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:

The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Intermittent Frequency Instability

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

First check the 10 turn VFO pot and its connections on the front panel 
board.  If the pot itself is the older one with a blue plastic shaft 
(remove the knob to check), replace it with the newer metal shaft pot.


If that is not the problem, turn to sheet 1 of the RF Board schematic. 
Reflow the soldering for all the components in the VFO area.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/5/2019 7:01 PM, Christopher Bowne wrote:

My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and 
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays 
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating” 
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it back into stable 
operation, but any sort of movement (I run it QRP mobile in a Tacoma 4x4) will 
throw it out of whack again.  Three modes - normal stable, squiggly unstable, 
and locked at nominal 68 or 63 above 7.0 or 14.0 as noted above.  Seems like a 
bad solder joint or solder whisker somewhere.  Any suggestions on where to 
look?  K1 S/N 0291.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Intermittent Frequency Instability

[Bert]

Hi Chris,

Instead of spending time troubleshooting I would start with re-soldering
the Front Panel Board and connections. There are not that many
components so it shouldn't take that long. I had an intermittent
problem on my K1 and re-soldered the whole RF Board. Not very
sophisticated but it works.

Good luck!

Bert VE3NR




On 7/5/2019 7:01 PM, Christopher Bowne wrote:

My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and 
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays 
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating” 
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it back into stable 
operation, but any sort of movement (I run it QRP mobile in a Tacoma 4x4) will 
throw it out of whack again.  Three modes - normal stable, squiggly unstable, 
and locked at nominal 68 or 63 above 7.0 or 14.0 as noted above.  Seems like a 
bad solder joint or solder whisker somewhere.  Any suggestions on where to 
look?  K1 S/N 0291.

Chris, AJ1G Stonington CT
  from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 4-band board wanted

[LL]

INCREDIBLE RESULT!!!

I called Elecraft, and a few hours later, they called back: they found ONE
two-band board, and they're kitting it up with 20 and 80 for me. I'll have
to swap the boards to change, but I'll have a four-band K1.

EXTREMELY satisfied customer, still.

On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 9:35 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Lloyd,
>
> Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board.  Order the
> kit for the band you wish to switch to.
> There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.
>
> Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band
> boards easily.  The K1 will remember the OPF offsets for up to 6 bands.
> You only need to change the board and set the "b1" and "b2" menu
> parameters to match the bands of the boards in use.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/1/2019 9:25 AM, LL wrote:
> > I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and
> 80.
> >
> > If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to
> rework
> > the existing board for 20, instead of 30.
> >
> > Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
> > four-band board?
> > might it be possible to swap them out to switch bands, if needed, and
> only
> > two-band boards are available?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 4-band board wanted

[Don Wilhelm]

Lloyd,

Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board.  Order the 
kit for the band you wish to switch to.

There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.

Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band 
boards easily.  The K1 will remember the OPF offsets for up to 6 bands. 
You only need to change the board and set the "b1" and "b2" menu 
parameters to match the bands of the boards in use.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2019 9:25 AM, LL wrote:

I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and 80.

If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to rework
the existing board for 20, instead of 30.

Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
four-band board?
might it be possible to swap them out to switch bands, if needed, and only
two-band boards are available?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[David Gilbert]

Ahh ... very good point, Bob!  I forgot that.

I assume crystals can still be had from somewhere, though.  I wonder if 
Elecraft kept their old stock of them.


I'm copying the list on your reply since it was someone else who needed 
a new board, not me.


73,
Dave   AB7E




On 6/10/2019 11:09 AM, Bob W7AVK wrote:


Dave - To change bands with the K1 boards you also need to change the 
crystal.


Good luck,

73  Bob  W7AVK


On 6/10/2019 10:33 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


Unless I am mistaken (entirely possible),  all of the K1 band filter 
boards were essentially the same except for the coils. I'd bet that 
there are several unused two band K1 filter boards out there ... the 
result of owners upgrading to the four band module. For example, I 
have an extra 40m/20m board left over from when I upgraded my K1, but 
I plan to hang on to mine.


If you can find somebody willing to give theirs up, it shouldn't be 
too difficult to find the coil winding instructions for the bands 
you're interested in.  There was even a guy who used to wind the 
coils for a small fee, and if he's still around he probably still has 
the materials for them.


After all, you don't need a run of boards ... you just need one module.

73,
Dave   AB7E



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[David Gilbert]

Unless I am mistaken (entirely possible),  all of the K1 band filter 
boards were essentially the same except for the coils.  I'd bet that 
there are several unused two band K1 filter boards out there ... the 
result of owners upgrading to the four band module.  For example, I have 
an extra 40m/20m board left over from when I upgraded my K1, but I plan 
to hang on to mine.


If you can find somebody willing to give theirs up, it shouldn't be too 
difficult to find the coil winding instructions for the bands you're 
interested in.  There was even a guy who used to wind the coils for a 
small fee, and if he's still around he probably still has the materials 
for them.


After all, you don't need a run of boards ... you just need one module.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 6/10/2019 8:57 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

Apologies in advance if this has been answered before. I can’t find it in the 
mailing list archives although surely it has come up already.

I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for my 
40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but I’m 
slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
available from Elecraft.

If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board layout 
is copyrighted.

Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
collect the required parts if the boards were available.

Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability stream 
somehow…

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[Walter Underwood]

> On Jun 10, 2019, at 8:57 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
> collect the required parts if the boards were available.

The actual problem is that the parts are no longer available. Wayne sent this 
to the list four days ago.

> On Jun 6, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Correct on both counts. 
> 
> Trust me, as the designer of both the K1 and KX1 I have a soft spot for them 
> and would love to bring them back. But several of the critical parts became 
> impossible to source, and a substantial redesign would be required to work 
> around them.
> 
> The good news: the KX2 is s much more radio, in a smaller package. We had 
> to go through the K1 and KX1 to get to the KX2, and we're not looking back :)
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[rich hurd WC3T]

Wayne has already addressed this, not too long ago.  They aren't
considering opening the K1 not only because of the circuit board layout
(copyrighted) but also the IP embedded within the microcontroller.

It's dead, Jim.

On Mon, Jun 10, 2019 at 12:21 PM Mike Morrow  wrote:

> What you propose will very likely not be possible.
>
> Elecraft has always been very "outside the norm" for contemporary QRP kit
> makers in NEVER providing PCB trace info for the kits that it sold.  It is
> deliberate company policy.
>
> I could have used such info a number of times after I built an early K1
> some 19 years ago.  The late great Tom/N0SS was a helpful source of
> physical high-quality photos of some of the PCBs that Elecraft made 15
> years ago.
>
> Mike / KK5F
>
> >I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board
> for my 40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization,
> but I’m slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts
> are available from Elecraft.
> >
> >If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently
> given up on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the
> schematics and BOMs are already in the documentation, is there a source for
> the circuit board layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I
> suppose the board layout is copyrighted.
> >
> >Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to
> collect the required parts if the boards were available.
> >
> >Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability
> stream somehow…
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Doug, W0UHU.
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Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[Mike Morrow]

What you propose will very likely not be possible.

Elecraft has always been very "outside the norm" for contemporary QRP kit 
makers in NEVER providing PCB trace info for the kits that it sold.  It is 
deliberate company policy.

I could have used such info a number of times after I built an early K1 some 19 
years ago.  The late great Tom/N0SS was a helpful source of physical 
high-quality photos of some of the PCBs that Elecraft made 15 years ago.

Mike / KK5F

>I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for 
>my 40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but 
>I’m slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
>available from Elecraft.
>
>If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
>on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
>are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
>layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board 
>layout is copyrighted.
>
>Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
>collect the required parts if the boards were available.
>
>Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability 
>stream somehow…
>
>Thanks.
>
>Doug, W0UHU.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

[lmarion]

The K1 is as remarkable as the K2, for its small rugged box, it’s a power 
house feature packed rig.


Gotta say its been in its case since I got the KX2. Remarkable rig.

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Lane

Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2019 7:50 PM
To: Fred Jensen
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:


Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while
activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for
awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had
it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between
a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an
incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
> Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.
>
> 73, Byron N6NUL
>
>by: http://www.qsl.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

[Lane]

Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:
>
> Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
> in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while
> activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for
> awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had
> it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between
> a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an
> incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.
>
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
> > Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.
> >
> > 73, Byron N6NUL
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

[Fred Jensen]

Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium 
in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while 
activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for 
awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had 
it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between 
a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an 
incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.

73, Byron N6NUL




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

[Byron Servies]

Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.

73, Byron N6NUL

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 5:48 PM Lane 
wrote:

> Took a look at the new revamped website (or maybe I haven't been on it
> for a while), and noticed there are no K1's listed. Is it true?
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Peter,

After a K1 Reset, nothing needs to be adjusted, but you will have to do 
the menu related settings:

STP, STL, b1 and b2 settings (b3 and b4 if a 4 band board) and CAL OPF.
CAL OPF is not difficult, but does require a signal of known frequency 
on each band - it is just an adjustment of the displayed frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 11:45 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Petr,

After the reset, you should not have to do VFO calibration, but you will 
need to set the VFO Offset (CAL OPF) in the menu.  That requires only a 
known frequency signal for each band that is installed and button taps.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 11:45 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Petr,

Check the VPOWER signal line to see if there is any DC level change.
If is is a steady DC level, then try changing QW5 and/or D18.

If VPOWER varies, then the MCU or DAC is causing the variation.  In that 
case, I would try a Master Reset (See manual Reset to Factory defaults), 
but first record your menu settings and restore them after the reset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 4:06 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

many thanks for kind help and reply.
Unfortunately I don't think its DAC sampling issue...

I checked it happends on any power level (not depending to the power level
setting)
and it happends in my case only on 40m (band 1).
Also I realized that the power variation is sometime 0.5W and sometime 2W...
and even
more sometime its jumping up and sometime jumping down.
What is most strange is that when I am not touching the band switching
button it seems to
be stable > even on lower power (instead of pre-set power) it does not
changes.

I checked our second K1 which is for long time used by my daddy and I did
not realized anything
like that on this radio.

I will try to verify all parts around the Q5 as you suggested.
I will be happy for any other kind of hint or tips...





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Don,

many thanks for kind help and reply.
Unfortunately I don't think its DAC sampling issue...

I checked it happends on any power level (not depending to the power level
setting)
and it happends in my case only on 40m (band 1). 
Also I realized that the power variation is sometime 0.5W and sometime 2W...
and even
more sometime its jumping up and sometime jumping down.
What is most strange is that when I am not touching the band switching
button it seems to
be stable > even on lower power (instead of pre-set power) it does not
changes.

I checked our second K1 which is for long time used by my daddy and I did
not realized anything
like that on this radio.

I will try to verify all parts around the Q5 as you suggested.
I will be happy for any other kind of hint or tips...





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Petr,

There may be nothing wrong.  The POWER control line originates at the U2 
DAC on the front panel and is applied to Q5 on the RF Board.
You should check all components associated with Q5 to be certain of the 
value and good soldering.


Since the POWER signal line is derived digitally from data out of the 
MCU, it may be that the "problem" is simply one of digital resolution. 
If the real value is in between 2 DAC steps, the POWER output signal can 
vary between the two DAC steps causing the situation that you observed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2019 8:24 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec.
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly.
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Bert,

Even I noticed that power jumps sometimes also down... not only up as shown
on vid. It happends on band 1 - 40m in my case, band 2 - 20m seems ok. 

regards,



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Bert]

Hi Petr,

I've checked you video and interestingly enough I have the same or 
similar problem with my K1.


Sometimes the power output goes to the full programmed output and pulls 
back 1 watt or so. It doesn't
happen every time I transmit but quite often and I can't figure what's 
wrong.


Looking forward to find a solution for both of us.

73 Bert VE3NR



On 5/10/2019 8:24 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec.
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly.
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec. 
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly. 
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi all,

another work in lab on son’s K1 done. On KFL1-2 the K2,K3 relays replaced,
L11,L12 reworked for correct 15t on cores (0.8uH)... Now its waiting for
band module resistance re-check and re-tweaking TX part this evening. I
wonder if it will be finished successfuly...



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi all,

so another evening spent with K1...

As Don suggested we stepped back and revised the band module for correct
winding and resistance check. I found that all LPF cores are not correct.
L9-L10 with 22t instead of 21t and L11-L12 with 14t instead of 15t for
40/20m band. So I am going to reworking them.

Also we went thru voltage check on RF board and all seems ok according to
alignment manual page.

Finaly we re-checked all diodes for type and polarity as it is most common
issue mentioned in troubleshooting manual pages. OK

Next part - today evening...

73



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

[Denis Dimick]

Don,

The kit showed up yesterday, and just wanted to thank you for it.

Denis
KC6AUP


--
There is no future until we settle our past...


On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:06 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I
> have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
> Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost -
> USPS Priority Mail.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:
> > I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
> > part with?
> >
> > Denis
> > KC6AUP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

[Denis Dimick]

Yes, that is the one.

My address is is current in the database

Denis
KC6AUP


On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 09:06 Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I
> have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
> Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost -
> USPS Priority Mail.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:
> > I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
> > part with?
> >
> > Denis
> > KC6AUP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

[Don Wilhelm]

Denis,

Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I 
have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost - 
USPS Priority Mail.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:

I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
part with?

Denis
KC6AUP

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Don,

yes filter board is not inserted during these tests on page
45-46...(resistance and voltage tests)

Thanks for hints,

Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Don and Bert,

Thanks for inputs from both. 

All measurement was done without the filter board. 

Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Bert,

Multiply the RF Voltages listed for the RF Probe by 2.8 to get the peak 
to peak RF voltages observed with an oscilloscope.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 9:13 PM, Bert wrote:

HI Don and Petr,

Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send 
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1 Manual. Thanks anyway!


I find it quite difficult sometimes to troubleshoot and follow the 
schematics. Also doing signal tracing in the receiver and
transmitter is quite subjective using only an RF probe. It would be 
better to have some RF values p-p so you could use

a oscilloscope and at the same time see the signal.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Bert]

Don and Petr,

Forgot to mention that measurement was done with filter board plugged 
in. 5.7K


Bert VE3NR



On 4/21/2019 6:26 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Petr,

Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?

Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when 
making the resistance measurements on page 45.


The filter board is not plugged in until you get to page 46.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are 
not same

in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 
says

it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual 
Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value 
of J7

pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Bert]

HI Don and Petr,

Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send 
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1 Manual. Thanks anyway!


I find it quite difficult sometimes to troubleshoot and follow the 
schematics. Also doing signal tracing in the receiver and
transmitter is quite subjective using only an RF probe. It would be 
better to have some RF values p-p so you could use

a oscilloscope and at the same time see the signal.

This is an older radio so I don't expect Elecraft to come up with some 
new troubleshooting aids, but the K1 owners can

share experiences and test results.

I've just measured the resistance between J7-pin 6 to ground and it's 5.7K.

Please keep me in the loop. Thanks to both of you. Comments from other 
k! owners are appreciated.


Thanks!

Bert VE3NR





On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!

Don can you let me know some hints what it could means in that case please?
The rest values are same in both tables and measured values are also
corresponding to it.

Bert I will send you the proper manual for your K1 (we have same Rev. ) >
Revision D, Dec 1, 2000 by email.
I got it from Don (many thanks Don!!)

Thanks for help in advance.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Petr,

Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?

Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when 
making the resistance measurements on page 45.


The filter board is not plugged in until you get to page 46.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals. 

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000. 
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k. 
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!

Don can you let me know some hints what it could means in that case please?
The rest values are same in both tables and measured values are also
corresponding to it. 

Bert I will send you the proper manual for your K1 (we have same Rev. ) >
Revision D, Dec 1, 2000 by email. 
I got it from Don (many thanks Don!!)

Thanks for help in advance. 

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

[Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS]

Don,

many thanks.
Manual is printed now.
I am going to do it step by step accordingly during coming Easter holiday.
I will report then after...:)

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

[Don Wilhelm]

Bert,

The troubleshooting section is about the same - no problem.

Do not rely on the board Rev level to be the same as the manual level. 
There is no Rev J K1 board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2019 9:03 PM, Bert wrote:

Hi Don, Petr and all,

I have a similar TX problem that I've been working on for a time. 
Reading your emails I realized

that I'm using a K1 manual Rev. J. 2015.

My K1 is from around 2000, Rev. D, and I'm now asking if the Rev. J of 
the manual is OK to use

as reference and for troubleshooting?


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

[Don Wilhelm]

Petr.

Turn that manual to Appendix E near the back.  And on page 6 of that 
Appendix, you will find Transmitter Signal Tracing.

Set up the K1 as instructed there, and no damage will be done.

Then make the measurements in the order listed.  You will need an RF 
probe.  If you are using an oscilloscope (with a 10X probe), multiply 
the expected values by 2.8 to obtain the expected peak to peak RF 
voltage measurements.


At the FIRST measurement that is significantly less than the expected 
value (expect as much as a 10% variation before saying it is 
significant) you have reached the output of the failing stage.

Correct that stage and move onward to the next failure point.

That is the procedure required to determine why it is not working.

If the final is blown, replace it with the K1PAKIT from Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/16/2019 9:17 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Don,

I checked other parts in TX section and it seems to be ok (refer to manual
2000 Rev. D). Just removed the 5th turn on secondary winding of T3.

Is there something else strange or danger which I should check in order to
avoid smoke during the test or even blowing the final please?

Many thanks mate,

Petr




-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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