[RBW] Re: Pokemon Go!

[iamkeith]

Wow, our society can be pretty depressing at times.   The experience we had 
this morning was disturbing in a different way, though I'm sure it was less 
orchestrated.  I wasn't going to share but now I think I should, in case it 
serves as another useful, cautionary warning for other parents:   Of the 
five Pokemon we caught this morning, three of them were located on the 
street directly in front of a known, registered, pedophile sex offender's 
house.

Apologies for drifting so far away from riv/bike content.  :-(


On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 2:20:28 PM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
>
> Be careful out there, especially with kids: 
> http://www.cbsnews.com/news/robbery-suspects-using-pokemon-go-to-target-victims-police-say/
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pokemon Go!

[iamkeith]

How hilarious to see this thread, just an hour after installing the ap and 
having just gotten back from a ride around the block hunting with my 9 year 
old.  In our case, he was navigating from the rear of a cargo bike, while I 
did the pedaling, though.  Guess I'll have to give up my phone 
periodically, so he can do some hunting on his own.   

On Wednesday, July 13, 2016 at 9:35:43 AM UTC-6, WETH wrote:
>
> My teenage sons also eagerly hopped on their bikes and set of riding in 
> quest of Pokemon!  Anything that has them riding can't be all bad!  Though, 
> I'll admit to finding the whole Pokemon Go craze a bit strange, to each 
> their own! Live and let live!

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[RBW] Some things change, some stay the same

[iamkeith]

She's beautiful.  Some things are just so much better than bikes.

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Re: [RBW] Smaller Riv sizing

[iamkeith]

Funny - it might be my selective memory but I kind of recall that, in years 
past, it was the exact opposite:  I seem to remember lots of people saying 
"Riv told me to get a bigger size than I'm used to, and now I wish I would 
have listened."  I think the shift to the "expanded sizing" & more sloped 
top tubes has made a big enough difference that it's harder to gauge 
without trying in person.   I know it does for me - even (or especially) 
with fewer sizes to choose from.  Was the Bombadil the first to use the new 
system, or was the Sam Hillbourne? - can't remember, but I've been unable 
to make the leap, despite wanting to at a couple of times.  

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 5:29:10 PM UTC-6, islaysteve wrote:
>
> It seems like there have been a number of Rivs listed for sale here by 
> owners who indicate that they a just a bit too large.  Personally, I am 
> small; 5'5 and I believe my PBH is about 79, I haven't measured in a while. 
>  According to the published chart, I should be on a 53 Bleriot.  However, 
> my 51 Bleriot fits perfectly IMO (drop bars). I can just comfortably stand 
> over it.  I would not want to buy a particular model Rivendell without 
> riding it first.  Fortunately, there are some dealers around the country 
> now.  Cheers,
> Steve

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Re: [RBW] Smaller Riv sizing

[iamkeith]

I don't have any Rivs with the 6 degree top tube (other than the clem which 
is different because it only comes in three sizes which are thus meant to 
take a HUGE range of riders for each), but my gut says that 56 would indeed 
be too big for you.   That size is directly comparable to the 61cm, 3 
degree frames that René mentions, in terms of top tube length and ideal 
fit.  It'll just have a lot more standover clearance. (For reference, I'm 
6'2" with a long torso, and the 56 is the size I'd get - and I prefer bikes 
on the "big" side.  In fact, it would be perfect because it would give me 
the length I need for my upper body, with the low straddle height I need 
for my short legs.)  

Similarly, a 52cm Hillbourne might be equivalent to about a 57cm Homer or 
Atlantis, if they existed.

Here's a link to the old geometry tables for comparison, which still have 
those old Sam Hillbourne sizes:  
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/edit?pref=2=1#gid=0

Also,  here's a thread in which Grant talks about the Hillbourne sizing 
conversion:   
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/_pGj9VCTu0E/JB3_bX-YOr4J

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 11:34:49 AM UTC-6, René wrote:
>
> I'm 5'11", barely 1" taller, yet my saddle height is 77-78, depending on 
> the shoes I wear. I guess my torso is shorter comparatively, yet I have 
> long arms. My stock original Homer configuration from RBW had me on an 8cm 
> stem on Noodles, which felt too far out no matter how much I raised the 
> handlebars. I now use a 5 cm stem at about saddle height or slightly 
> higher. 
>
> When I bought my Betty, Keven insisted I get the larger 61 or whatever 
> that size was, but I went with the 58 so my daughter's could also ride it. 
> It fits me perfectly. 
>
> The 61 Homer and Atlantis are fine vertically, but need the shorter stems 
> for classic drop bars. I have a 6cm stem on the Atlantis now. Thankfully I 
> could find those shorter reach Nitto stems. For upright rear-reaching bars, 
> the sizing is perfect. 
>
> Agree that fine tuning the sizing based on the intended configuration is 
> needed in many cases and default RBW sizing recommendations are for upright 
> riding handlebars. 
>
> René
>
> On Saturday, July 2, 2016, Andrew Huston  > wrote:
>
>> Yes. My PBH is 84. I wear a 30 inseam in pants. Saddle height measured in 
>> my MB6 and Jonesis 70cm. I'm gauging that my saddle height may indicate 
>> longer torso than legs, 5'10" btw. I'm not sure if this all adds up but 
>> I've measured multiple times and this is what I get.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Smaller Riv sizing

[iamkeith]

I don't have any rivs with the 6 degree top tube (other than the clem which 
is different because it only comes in three sizes which are thus meant to 
take a HUGE range of riders for each), but my gut says that 56 would indeed 
be too big for you.   That size is directly comparable to the 61cm, 3 
degree frames that René mentions, in terms of top tube length and ideal 
fit.  It just have a lot more standover room.   Similarly, a 52cm 
Hillbourne might be equivalent to about a 57cm Homer or Atlantis, if they 
existed.

Here's a link to the old geometry tables for comparison, which still have 
those old Sam Hillbourne sizes: 
 
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/edit?pref=2=1#gid=0

Also,  here's a thread in which Grant talks about the Hillbourne sizing 
conversion:   
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/_pGj9VCTu0E/JB3_bX-YOr4J 

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 11:34:49 AM UTC-6, René wrote:
>
> I'm 5'11", barely 1" taller, yet my saddle height is 77-78, depending on 
> the shoes I wear. I guess my torso is shorter comparatively, yet I have 
> long arms. My stock original Homer configuration from RBW had me on an 8cm 
> stem on Noodles, which felt too far out no matter how much I raised the 
> handlebars. I now use a 5 cm stem at about saddle height or slightly 
> higher. 
>
> When I bought my Betty, Keven insisted I get the larger 61 or whatever 
> that size was, but I went with the 58 so my daughter's could also ride it. 
> It fits me perfectly. 
>
> The 61 Homer and Atlantis are fine vertically, but need the shorter stems 
> for classic drop bars. I have a 6cm stem on the Atlantis now. Thankfully I 
> could find those shorter reach Nitto stems. For upright rear-reaching bars, 
> the sizing is perfect. 
>
> Agree that fine tuning the sizing based on the intended configuration is 
> needed in many cases and default RBW sizing recommendations are for upright 
> riding handlebars. 
>
> René
>
> On Saturday, July 2, 2016, Andrew Huston  > wrote:
>
>> Yes. My PBH is 84. I wear a 30 inseam in pants. Saddle height measured in 
>> my MB6 and Jonesis 70cm. I'm gauging that my saddle height may indicate 
>> longer torso than legs, 5'10" btw. I'm not sure if this all adds up but 
>> I've measured multiple times and this is what I get.
>>
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[RBW] Smaller Riv sizing

[iamkeith]

How tall are you, Andrew, and do you have a notion about your proportions?  
Long limbs / short torso,  vice versa, long legs only, etc.  And your PBH, of 
course.  This would help give you better feedback.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivs on the Great Divide Route?

[iamkeith]

Glad Zach posted that!  I saw this on a news feed early this morning, and 
immediately thought about your (Mark's) upcoming trip as well.   (Oddly, It 
was all over the British news, before anything hit the National U.S. news)

You're right about bearspray being no use in a bag.  One of the accounts I 
read said that they surprised the bear and that it "took the first rider 
'off his bike'," so even quick-draw access might not have mattered.  A 
couple of other things you could consider, and that I do on many of my 
regular rides, are:

1)  attach a bear bell to your bike.  This is the best way to make sure you 
don't surprise bears (or moose) in the first place. You can usually find 
them with velcro attachment straps.  Intended for walking sticks or 
backpacks, but they work well on handlebars, and are easy to remove when 
you don't need the noise.  

2) If you get tired of using a holster, carry the spray in your bottle 
cage.   Many or most oversize water bottles (with the necked-down area) 
happen to be the PERFECT size to snugly hold a standard bear spray can. 
 Just remove the lid and press-in the bearspray.  The water bottle stays on 
the can when you pull it out, and you can easily grab it when you walk away 
from your bike:



Hope the trip goes well, and don't let this stuff freak you out.  Just be 
smart, and you'll be fine.  


On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 3:34:56 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Zach, wow, hadn't heard about that. But yes, I will have bear spray. I 
> thought of putting it in the bar bag, but that isn't much use to me when I 
> lean the bike on a tree and zip into the woods to answer nature's call or 
> check out a stream or some other point of interest. I think I'll keep it on 
> my belt the whole time. I've carried it on all my hiking trips and can flip 
> that safety clip off in a flash :)
>
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 2:52 PM, Zach Duval  > wrote:
>
>> Probably mentioned above but worth repeating: bear spray will be on the 
>> ready? Have you practiced firing it?
>>
>> A MTBer was killed by what was most likely a grizzly bear yesterday 
>> outside West Glacier. That's not exactly on your course, but it's fairly 
>> close.
>>
>> I've been thinking one of those Randi Jo bar bags might make a good spray 
>> holster. Might be worth consideration?
>>
>> Anyhow, good luck on the adventure. As you swing into the Flathead 
>> Valley, I'don't love to check outhe your DFL in person. I'm considering 
>> options for something with more trail ability than my Hillborne.
>>
>> Zach
>> Kalispell, MT
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom queue

[iamkeith]

You are clearly missing and needing a "long" bike, but the new XL Clem will get 
you that, without going custom.

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[RBW] Re: Long Chain Stays

[iamkeith]

"Mature" as in "not something you'd expect to be resolved in a prototype" ? 
 Or "mature" as in "good questions, and of course you can" ?

On Wednesday, June 29, 2016 at 6:02:49 PM UTC-6, BenG wrote:
>
> I specifically asked Keven if I could still lift the front end up a curb 
> on this long bike before I bought his brown protoloosa. And if it would 
> take a kickstand. He called those mature bike priorities. 

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[RBW] Has RBW been arund long enough to have a "Renaissance?"

[iamkeith]

Not all Japanese fabrication is better.  Only the stuff that comes from the 
city of Toyo.

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Hunqapillar FINALLY!

[iamkeith]

Stunning!  Looking forward to hearing your imressions of the loop bar on that 
frame

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[RBW] Re: New Hunq 650b

[iamkeith]

I'm with you, Bill.  But based on those other rumored sizes, it sure seems 
promising that a 56 or 57 might be in the works.  I've complained so loud 
and for so long about that size being missing (I even had a pre-sale locked 
in when the model first came out, but backed out over concerns), that I'm 
afraid I'll have no choice but to put my money where my mouth is and buy 
one.   Looks like I need to think about selling some bikes...

Brings up a question for you, specifically, though:  As you'll remember 
helping me analyze, I felt like I had the exact same 
falling-in-between-sizes issue with the 55 & 58 Appaloosas. But in that 
case I think I'd have leaned toward the larger one, with the bike being 
slightly more road than trail oriented.   How come you got the 55, and what 
do you think of the fit, now that you have it?  

Regarding the Hunqapillar, the increased clearance news is good to hear 
too!  I suppose that if they didn't increase that, but DID lengthen the 
chainstays even more, it would start to have too much overlap with the 
Appaloosa.  This keeps it unique and even more trail-ready.   *One thing I 
really hope happens is longer fork legs!*   I don't know if this is for 
sure the case with the current Hunquapillar (maybe Patrick can comment) 
but, on my 700c Clem which supposedly has a Hunquapillar fork, the 
axle-to-crown height is far and away the most limiting dimension in terms 
of what size tire I can fit.  Especially with fenders.   Width could 
probably accommodate a 2.8" tire, but the height just barely takes a 2.3.


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 3:09:15 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> What will the sizes be?  On the instagram it claims to be a 53, and 
> somebody asked about "the 59" like it's a think and Deacon says there is a 
> 60.  What are the nominal sizes?  I was kind of tempted by the Hunqapillar 
> at times, and thought the 54 was a little small, and the 58 was a little 
> big.  What's the next size up from 53?  What's the full size run?
>
> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 1:48:50 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I talked with Riv yesterday, and they said that the new 60 Hunqapillar 
>> would have about 3cm longer chainstays than my original geometry 62 
>> Hunqapillar. Sounds like it is mostly for increased tire clearance and 
>> won't be Appaloosa long.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 6:42:06 AM UTC-6, Philip Kim wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Looks like Riv got in at least one 650b Hunqapillar (screen shot from 
>>> their instagram)
>>>
>>> Link! 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[iamkeith]

Damn, Frank.  Since I might be one of the few odd ducks on this board who 
recognizes how special it is, I should say it:  That McClung is stunning 
and you are a lucky man and I am jealous.   Are you in Colorado, or did you 
just "know?"  

On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 7:04:21 PM UTC-6, frank_a wrote:
>
>  Don McClung 29er cruiser - # 51
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/11392941485/in/photostream/
>
> - Frank
>
>
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:51:28 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
>> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
>> David 
>> Chicago
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[iamkeith]

Bunch o' clowns, but here you go.  

As much as I do like the color, I think "one" is probably enough.  

Some day I'll paint the QB.





On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 10:51:28 AM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] Re: VO heads up

[iamkeith]

>  ...but figured if VO is discontinuing it, there's probably a reason why - 
> I don't want to find out what that reason is. 
>

You  had me worried for a moment, but I don't think these items are being 
discontinued -  just trying to generate some sales on slow movers or get 
rid of overstock to make room,  if I read this correctly:

http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2016/05/special-deals-and-closed-for-memorial.html

If they are/were discontinuing, I think I'd need to consider some of those 
items more closely.  Particularly, those 26" diagonalle rims.  Between my 
family members and I, we've got four 26" road bikes that we want to keep 
running in perpetuity, and rim-brake, polished, road rims are hard to come 
by.   I'm just  trying so hard to reduce my hoarding tendencies:

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-26-diagonale-rim.html

Just in case though, I DID buy a set of the wing nuts that I'd been 
contemplating for a few years, for use on my non-quick release Quickbeam. 
 I'm hoping I'll use the gears (and thus bike) more, if they're easier to 
swap.   Other QB/SO owners might like them for the same reason, so thanks 
for the heads-up no matter what.  

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-stainless-wingnuts-mkii.html

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[RBW] Re: Spikes, Pedals, Shins

[iamkeith]

Well,   I posted that last question as you were posting.  Ironic timing. 

I'm still curious how a regular bolt would work, though, rather than none 
at all.

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[RBW] Re: Spikes, Pedals, Shins

[iamkeith]

Ryan,

Perhaps this is what you were saying, but have you tried replacing the 
sharpened screws on the Vice pedals with standard, M4 hex bolts.  If you 
could find a bolt that stuck up just 1 to 1 1/2 mm above the platform, it 
may be "just enough" grip, without being too sharp.

Here's a good illustration of both VP pedals, plus other Riv/MKS Pedals. 
 The screw spikes on the Vice seem like they'd be easier to remove and 
replace and experiment with than the Thin Gripsters:

http://oceanaircycles.com/2013/04/22/vp-vice-and-001-pedal-comparison/



On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 2:29:02 PM UTC-6, Ryan Ray wrote:
>
> Hey there,
>
> I have clipless pedals and shoes and most of the things in the shoes ruse 
> article don't really ring true for me. Clipless pedals are great and the 
> longer the ride, the better they are for me. However whenever I put 
> clipless pedals on a bike that is the bike I never ride, so I use VP-001 
> and VP vice pedals and have for years.
> Unfortunately my shins are absolutely scarred by near constant scrapes. 
> Walking my bike. Walking by my bike. Moving near my bike. My wife even drew 
> blood trying to get her bike near mine.
>
> I've started by removing (attempting to, some were stuck) the super sharp 
> headless threaded spikes from the Vice pedals but does anyone else have any 
> other suggestions?
>
> - Ryan
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Spikes, Pedals, Shins

[iamkeith]

Funny - I wear keens almost exclusively, for 7 months a year.  I was SO 
excited when they came out with those bike sandals.  But they're about 1/2 
the width of their regular sandals, and I literally cannot even get them on 
my feet.   My SPD bike "shoe" of choice is currently the Nashbar sandal, 
which is really wide,  but tough and inexpensive too!  But, like the OP, my 
SPD equipped bikes just don't get ridden as much as a bike that I can hop 
regardless of what I happen to be wearing.  

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 3:25:31 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Maybe your problem is you need better shoes to use with your cleats.
>
>
>
> On 05/23/2016 05:21 PM, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Man, you describe me and my struggles to an absolute T:  Clipless are 
> still best for long rides; but I don't use a bike nearly as often if so 
> fitted; I enjoy platform pedals most of the time;  but am scarred, scabbed 
> and bloody all summer long.  I got all the way to shin bone last year.  I'm 
> actively looking for some platform pedals with a more friendly - yet - 
> still grippy spike.  Will let you know if I find something, but will be 
> watching this thread no matter what. 
>
> At this moment, I'm adding some screws to some Grip Kings, but planning to 
> set them very low and use loctite to hold them in place. 
>
> I'm also thinking about getting some shin guards for vigorous mountain 
> rides, but that sort of defeats the whole beauty of platform pedals and not 
> having to go through a pre-ride ritual.
>
> I got some 5-Tennies a couple of years ago, which help a little. Because 
> they stick better, my foot slides off less frequently, meaning less 
> in-motion knocks.  But once again, that means having to use a specific 
> piece of gear.
>
> On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 2:29:02 PM UTC-6, Ryan Ray wrote: 
>>
>> Hey there, 
>>
>> I have clipless pedals and shoes and most of the things in the shoes ruse 
>> article don't really ring true for me. Clipless pedals are great and the 
>> longer the ride, the better they are for me. However whenever I put 
>> clipless pedals on a bike that is the bike I never ride, so I use VP-001 
>> and VP vice pedals and have for years.
>> Unfortunately my shins are absolutely scarred by near constant scrapes. 
>> Walking my bike. Walking by my bike. Moving near my bike. My wife even drew 
>> blood trying to get her bike near mine.
>>
>> I've started by removing (attempting to, some were stuck) the super sharp 
>> headless threaded spikes from the Vice pedals but does anyone else have any 
>> other suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Spikes, Pedals, Shins

[iamkeith]

Man, you describe me and my struggles to an absolute T:  Clipless are still 
best for long rides; but I don't use a bike nearly as often if so fitted; I 
enjoy platform pedals most of the time;  but am scarred, scabbed and bloody 
all summer long.  I got all the way to shin bone last year.  I'm actively 
looking for some platform pedals with a more friendly - yet - still grippy 
spike.  Will let you know if I find something, but will be watching this 
thread no matter what.

At this moment, I'm adding some screws to some Grip Kings, but planning to 
set them very low and use loctite to hold them in place. 

I'm also thinking about getting some shin guards for vigorous mountain 
rides, but that sort of defeats the whole beauty of platform pedals and not 
having to go through a pre-ride ritual.

I got some 5-Tennies a couple of years ago, which help a little. Because 
they stick better, my foot slides off less frequently, meaning less 
in-motion knocks.  But once again, that means having to use a specific 
piece of gear.

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 2:29:02 PM UTC-6, Ryan Ray wrote:
>
> Hey there,
>
> I have clipless pedals and shoes and most of the things in the shoes ruse 
> article don't really ring true for me. Clipless pedals are great and the 
> longer the ride, the better they are for me. However whenever I put 
> clipless pedals on a bike that is the bike I never ride, so I use VP-001 
> and VP vice pedals and have for years.
> Unfortunately my shins are absolutely scarred by near constant scrapes. 
> Walking my bike. Walking by my bike. Moving near my bike. My wife even drew 
> blood trying to get her bike near mine.
>
> I've started by removing (attempting to, some were stuck) the super sharp 
> headless threaded spikes from the Vice pedals but does anyone else have any 
> other suggestions?
>
> - Ryan
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBWHQ spy report

[iamkeith]

This makes sense, but I could see why it would matter less for a tandem.   
For simplicity, imagine a rider on a single bike that sits exactly half way 
between the axles.  A 1" vertical bump at the rear wheel would be felt as 
1/2" at the saddle.  But on an imaginary tandem with equal 1/3 spacing 
between riders and axles, a 1" bump would still be felt as 2/3" at the 
stoker, and only 1/3" at the rider.   The real math is probably weighted 
even less in favor of the stoker.  At some point, maybe the negatives of an 
even longer bike outweigh the improvement you can achieve at that position.

On the subject of Tandems, though:  I didn't sign up for updates and it is 
unlikely I'd be interested in one but, just in case, does anyone know if 
there will be a version that accommodates couples with a BIG height 
discrepancy?  6'-2" and 5'-4" ish?  Not finding that has always been one of 
the things that's kept me from considering one seriously.  That, and 
wanting to stay married.



On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 11:32:28 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> Yes, but if the stoker is directly over the rear wheel they're going to 
> feel the hit more than if they're between the wheels - that's why the 
> captain has such a relatively easy time with back wheel hits. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: eCLEM

[iamkeith]

I probably SHOULD be disgusted but tinkerer, ex-motorhead in me is 
really intrigued.   I have an old fat bike frame that I daydream about 
trying this with.   Please let us know how well it works.  Good on you for 
taking the chance and opening yourself up to critique, if nothing else!

On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 12:19:23 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I did the deed and you can see it here. I bought this kit used and 
> attached to a hybrid, then decided I liked it so much that I wanted it on a 
> nicer bike. It still needs wood fenders installed, and the wires need a 
> better cover than that blue plastic I jury-rigged to avoid today's 
> after-rain spray. Check it out, people who check out things!
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/18972972@N08/shares/GR3Qjv
>
> Joe "Electric Avenue" Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[iamkeith]

One word of caution:  

I haven't tried the steel MKS ones, but have tried both plastic ones and a 
couple of different sizes of Bruce Gordons.  In both cases, they were too 
short.  In other words, they didn't allow my toes to slide in far enough 
forward.   Bruce offers extra-large ones, which is what I got the second 
time, and they work much, much better, but even those are less than ideal 
(For reference, I use these on MKS Sylvan type pedals.  A flat pedal that 
was wider front-to-back would work better)

I used toe clips and straps for a long time without complaint, before 
switching exclusively to SPD for decades, then back to a combination of 
SPDs & flats, and ultimately back to mixing in some traditional 
clips/straps and these mini clips - and am not exactly sure why the clips 
now feel so wrong, but I have a theory:

When I used to wear silly biking shoes with a rigid or semi-rigid sole, it 
didn't matter as much where my foot sat, relative to the pedal axle.   More 
or less ball of foot was fine, and the stiff sole compensated.  Maybe it 
even provided some extra leverage when my form was peak.   But, when I 
started using huge flat pedals, they allowed me to use more flexible street 
shoes and I liked it.  But as a result, my preferred foot position has 
intuitively shifted forward so the axle sits slightly more toward the arch 
of my foot.   This is more natural, it is where I get the most power, it is 
more secure/stable on bumpy trails, and I'm less prone to ankle injury from 
not pedaling properly over long distances (which I tend to do early in the 
year, if I ride too much too soon.)  Eventually, I shifted the cleats on my 
SPDs to mimic this, and I would now argue that it is proper.  If nothing 
else, It is nice to be able to shift my foot around as I ride -   more 
forward for descents, more to the rear if tight turns are giving me overlap 
issues with the front wheel.

So basically, if you've gotten used to the freedom of flat pedals, I would 
suggest the extra large Bruce Gordon half clips AND/OR consider attaching 
them to pedals with longer platforms. You still have something over the top 
of your foot to pull up on, but you have the freedom to shift fore and aft 
as you like.



On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:15:08 AM UTC-6, Jack B wrote:
>
> I mostly subscribe to the Riv theory about pedals, i.e. I ride flat pedals 
> w/ street shoes for my daily rides.
>
> My current setup has MKS Sylvan touring pedals, which I bought with the 
> idea that I could add toeclips and straps for longer rides.
>
> Well now I'm about to go on a longish ride for an s24o, and don't really 
> want to mess with full clips and straps, but also think it might be nice to 
> have some more leverage.
>
> Anyone have success with these half-clips that MKS and VO offer?
> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=32040
>
> Seems like a nice compromise, but I'm also skeptical about the 
> effectiveness. Anyone have experience with these?
>
> cheers,
> Jack B.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Clem Smith 52cm Offroader

[iamkeith]

On Saturday, May 7, 2016 at 11:19:26 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Is this the consensus among Clem owners who have ridden the Jones? I'd be 
> interested to hear more about how they compare.
>
>
> Back to Clem: I particularly am interested in how it does on dirt; not 
> necessarily tight, technical singletrack, which I don't like anyway, but on 
> dirt roads and doubletrack -- compared to the Jones, and compared to your 
> standard mountain bike.
>

Interesting question for me, as this is how I've been spending the first 
few weeks of the riding season this year - swapping back and forth between 
a Clem and a Jones.






I agree with Jeremy that the riding position is very similar - though I 
usually say that the Jones feels like a Rivendell, rather than the other 
way around.  Chicken & egg thing, I guess. 

The one thing I really gained from the Jones, that I believe you'll 
struggle with at first, Patrick, is a completely different view of saddle 
position.   Whereas a Rivendell merely "suggests" a large setback, rearward 
bias, the Jones "requires" it.  *Without* a huge setback, it is impossible 
to climb.  *With* a huge setback, all of the handling improves greatly.   I 
used to set up all my bikes with the same saddle position, relative to the 
crank (more or less KOPS), but no longer.  Once I got used to the setback 
on the Jones, everything else felt a little off.  So I've gradually been 
shoving all of my saddles rearward now.  (now I'll need to get new stems, 
darn it.)  I tried to set the Clem up so that the position matched the 
Jones as close as possible.   With the huge reach-back of the Bosco bar, it 
is almost necessary.

I suspect most people are making a comparison between the Plus Jones and 
the Clem, because of the long chainstays, so the rest of this may not be 
relevant.  But even the Plus and Clem are different animals, with 19 & 21" 
chainstays respectively, and completely different front end geometries.   

My short-wheelbase, 17" chainstay Jones is a single track carving machine. 
 Very different from the Clem.   It goes wherever you point it, and you can 
lean over and take corners as fast as you want without worrying about 
losing traction.  I can't lift the front end of the Clem to save my life, 
whereas the Jones manuals and wheelies at will.  Both bikes are extremely 
stable, and are my two easiest bikes to ride no-hands.  I'm getting 
comfortable with the flexiness of the Bosco bar (plus I tightened it a lot 
more in the clamp), so I'm starting to take it on single track more, and I 
will say that it is very fun.   The long wheelbase doesn't make me worry 
about "high-centering," though I do worry about pedal strikes a bit more.   
I might do a multi-day, loaded forest service road tour later this summer, 
and I'm almost positive the Clem is the bike I'd take.  Up until I started 
riding it, I thought I'd take the Jones.  To me, I'd say they are very nice 
complements to each other, but with entirely different personalities - 
despite the similar fit and comfort.  I'm guessing the Plus would fall 
something in between and/or more redundant?

One amazing thing I'll say is this:  Despite the Jones having an 
intentionally compliant frame, a 3" / 13psi tire in the rear, and a 4.8" / 
5psi tire in front, the long-wheelbase Clem is MUCH smoother on rough 
surfaces - even with its "skinny" 2.4 Super Motos.  It is unbelievable how 
the bike just smooths everything out.   For that reason alone, I've been 
opting to grab it more often than not.  I think the Hunquapillar fork must 
have a lot to do with this, in addition to the chainstay length.  I can 
actually see it flexing and absorbing vibration.  The Jones fork, on the 
other hand, is intended to not move or flex or twist an iota.


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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam rebuild for light-loaded road touring: your thoughts, experiences & assitance?

[iamkeith]

On Thursday, May 5, 2016 at 1:54:00 PM UTC-6, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> The stock drivetrain setup was 40/32 on the crank (40t and chainguard on 
> the 110mm spider, and 32t on the 74mm spider), with just a 18t freewheel 
> out back.  Finding a 32t 74mm chainring may prove difficult, it's not 
> something I've seen after-market.   
>

Jeremy had me panicked for a moment.  Here's the 74bcd x 32 inner position 
chainring, which is probably as big as you could find:

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chr-32.htm

I'm sort of hijacking  your thread at this point, thinking about my own 
bike.  But I think this means the quickbeam dropouts can horizontally 
accommodate 8 teeth of gearing difference.  If you (or me) want to use ALL 
FOUR gear combinations facilitated by having two chainrings AND the double 
White Industries freewheel, then you would still have to accommodate the 8 
teeth maximum difference (between the shortest and longest net chainstay 
lengths), right?   In other words, if your freewheel cogs are separated by 
a 2 teeth difference, then your chainrings need to be separated by a 
maximum of 6 teeth difference, for a total of 8 teeth difference.

So, for example, if you have the 17&19 freewheel, and a 32t inner 
chainring, you would actually want a 38t chainring for the outer - not a 
40. 

Combinations would then be:  32/17, 32/19, 38/17, 38/19, with the total 
difference between the first and last of those two combinations (longest 
and shortest effective chainstay length, respectively) being 8 teeth 
 (32+17=49;   38+19=57;   57-49=8)





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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam rebuild for light-loaded road touring: your thoughts, experiences & assitance?

[iamkeith]

Looks like  I was typing my last reply just as you were sending yours, 
Jeremy, so we addressed some of the same things.  Sorry.

As to the issue you raised about quick releases - yea, that's something I 
wish I had too, and I know I'd use the gears (and therefore bike) more if I 
didn't have to carry a wrench in order to stop-and-swap.  Shy of switching 
to a QR axle, and for about the same cost, I've thought about getting these 
wingnuts.  I don't know if they'd work, but would love to hear feedback 
from someone who has tried.  Thoughts?:

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/wheelsets-rims-hubs/skewers/vo-stainless-wingnuts-mkii.html
 

> However, the hardest part in any of this is finding an appropriate QR 
> skewer to fit the 120mm spacing of the QB and hold the wheel securely. 
>  Pretty much all currently available skewers are built for modern road 
> (130mm) or mtb (135mm) spacing, and don't have enough threads to clamp 
> 120mm dropouts.  You may have luck searching for skewers out of a vintage 
> hub or replacement wheel, but it might be hard to find something in good 
> enough shape to work reliably.  You want something steel and enclosed cam, 
> like current Shimano QR's.  I finally found that Merry Sales (distributor 
> for Soma, Nitto, etc.) had a few 120mm skewers, good quality with enclosed 
> cams and steel clamping faces.  However, they were buried deep on their B2B 
> website and being sold at close-out, last-of-the-bunch prices, so I don't 
> know if they are still available or not.   
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam rebuild for light-loaded road touring: your thoughts, experiences & assitance?

[iamkeith]

Just wanted to add some data to what Bill says here, in which he is totally 
correct:

Suntour cranksets are some of the best ever in my opinion, but remember 
that they produce an extremely narrow Q-factor, and require a longer 
spindle than just about anything else out there.   Not sure which model you 
have.  I'm most familiar with the XC-Pro version, but I think the XC is the 
same?   Additionally, if you're trying to match the stock Quickbeam 
configuration, remember that you'll be using the inner and middle chainring 
positions - not the middle and outer.   The outer would ideally have a 
pant/chain guard.

In case it helps, I just recently installed an XC-Pro crank on my Clem, in 
a Quickbeam-esqe, 2x configuration, with the Sugino chain/pant guard from 
Riv:  
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chrg.htm

(Pic below.)

FYI and as expected, I had to get a MUCH longer bb than the one provided 
with the frame.  If it helps, my chainline (measured to the center 
chainring - which is actually the outer, in this application) is roughly 49 
mm, using a 127mm spindle.  Meanwhile, the chainline on my QB, measured 
to the corresponding OUTSIDE cog of a White Industries double freewheel, on 
a 120mm Origin8 flip-flop hub, is 48mm. Depending on how your crank and hub 
differ (or don't, as the case may be), you should be able to extrapolate 
from there as to what you need.








On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 at 12:51:25 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> "Bottom bracket length- the track crank had affixed itself to a stubby 
> little number, doubt it's gonna work with a double.  Anyone know the stock 
> spindle length off the top of their heads?"
>
> The bottom bracket length you need depends on your crankset.  Knowing the 
> 'stock size' is only useful if you are going to use the stock crankset.  
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Shout out to Riv/Grant in today's Paul Component newsletter

[iamkeith]

I hadn't realized that the Paul Racer was actually created because of a 
request from Grant. Below is content (hope it views properly).  Includes a 
link to a related video for project inspiration.

The Racer Brake
Making the Classics Even Classier

We’re a bike component company for people with tricks up their sleeves.

You’ve got plans for those old frames lying around...you just don’t know 
what they are yet.

Back in March we had an upcycle idea for your old mountain bike 
,
 
and now we’ve another suggestion for converting that old steel classic or 
27-inch wheel bike to a 700c: *It’s called the Racer Brake 
.
 *

Or what’s known as a long-reach brake with a reach of 57 to 70mm.

Back in the day, Grant Peterson of Rivendell fame called Paul requesting a 
centerpull brake like the Mafac Racer. Which sounded crazy But when Paul 
pulled down some old frames and got to thinking, he could see it’d be great 
for conversion.

What's so special about a Mafac replica? The arms are much stiffer than 
your typical dual pivot brake, which means more power is transferred for 
stopping.

Below is our video how-to on the conversion, and it’s housed on our BRAND 
NEW VIDEO PAGE 
,
 
where all of our videos can be found.

Note that the Racer is available in recessed and non-recessed mounting in 
black, silver, and high polish. (Sorry folks, no green).
[image: Using the PAUL Racer Brake] 

Product page, plus video 

.

Watch on YouTube 


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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[iamkeith]

Looks fantastic, Bob.   I agree with the thought that the  Bosco bars would 
work better with more angle.  I have some of the non-bullmoose version, and 
they automatically ended up that way.   Still - your bike looks so perfect, 
I wouldn't change anything.   If you don't mind me asking, what is your 
saddle height?  That too looks just right and perfectly proportioned for 
the  bike.

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[iamkeith]

White Industries  & Phil are my favorites too, though I have too many bikes, so 
I find I can justify the cost only for my best and most utilized bikes.  For 
those, I've never regretted the cost or felt they were overkill.  Not mentioned 
yet is that they are really LIFETIME parts , since the bearings can be replaced 
easily and cheaply and quickly.  Ive done so many times - unbeatable musa 
service from both companies.  Shimano cartridges are disposable.

White has a neat ability to micro-adjust bearing preload.  As Bill mentioned, 
their Ti is good for a weight conscious build with an unexpectedly low premium.

Phil offers ability to perfect chainline with many options for spindle length 
and offset , including custom!  For a bike with odd shell length (like a 100mm 
fat bike), they are the only option.

Down side of Phil is the need for a proprietary installation tool , whereas 
White uses shimano standard.  (Or as Sheldon said:  Phil is actually the 
standard/inventor, while shimano and subsequently most others adopted the 
slightly different standard, just to be difficult.)

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[RBW] Re: Boscoe and Rambouillet Pics Anyone?

[iamkeith]

Funny - I never put it together that this was you, Jeremy.  Probably should 
have.  If you've been riding 64cm road bikes, that Clem is going to fit you 
like a dream, for what you're wanting to use it for!

Also, forgot to say to you, Michael:  "Congratulations on the new bike!"

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 8:59:23 PM UTC-6, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> Hey, that's me!  
>

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[RBW] Re: Boscoe and Rambouillet Pics Anyone?

[iamkeith]

I did just remember this, in case you're still bent on trying to imagine 
what it will look like.  This fellow put boscos on a quickbeam, right after 
the bars were released.   

http://handlebarchronicles.blogspot.com/2013/05/spring-2013-becoming-upright.html

The Quickbeam is a contemporary-of and similar-to the Rambouillet, but it 
IS ever-so-slightly longer - no matter what the charts indicate!   Also 
noteworthy, now that I see this again, that his saddle actually does sit 
close to the top tube, almost like Joe described.

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[RBW] Re: Boscoe and Rambouillet Pics Anyone?

[iamkeith]

I'm thinking you want Albatross bars for this - not Bosco.  Or  maybe the 
Choco?

I haven't tried the setup you're describing, but I have a 60cm Ram with 
noodles, and a 59cm Clem with boscos.  The Ram has a very short top tube, 
even by Riv standards.  Meanwhile, the Clem has an extremely long top tube 
and was designed with Bosco bars in mind.  And even so, I had to use the 
longest Tallux stem I could get (130mm) before the boscos felt low enough 
and far enough away on the Clem.

They're a great bar, with lots of comfortable grip positions when set up 
well, but I think half of them would be useless on a Ram.

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 2:52:04 PM UTC-6, allenmichael wrote:
>
> Does anyone in the community have a picture of a Rambouillet with Bosco's? 
> I picked up the Eugene Orange Rambouillet with the shrunken stack, and I'm 
> planning to put it together with a set of 650b's and an upright setup.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Michael Allen
>

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[RBW] Re: Roscoe B

[iamkeith]

Funny you should mention Rock Lobster.  There's yet another Paul Sadoff 
creation that I've been admiring for quite a long while, and that has had 
me seriously considering as a template for a custom.  This one was made as 
a mechanic's runabout for the team he sponsors.  Ironically, it has a 
lugged crown and a kind of precursor to the Choco bar... and, of course, a 
bubba tube.  Not for everybody (I hope), but it explains why I'm personally 
so interested in the RB project.



On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 9:12:51 AM UTC-6, El Sapo wrote:
>
> I think Rosco would be a great bike for an alfine setup. Maybe even single 
> speed. This Rock Lobster has been on my mind for a while 
> http://www.rocklobstercycles.com/frames/other/ 
>
> On Saturday, April 23, 2016 at 5:23:44 PM UTC-7, El Sapo wrote:
>>
>> Extremely cool bike. Road it around a little. Love the way it looks. 
>> Another classic. 
>
>

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[RBW] 26in wheelset recommendations (inexpensive WTB?)

[iamkeith]

Probably all relative , and rim choice is probably more important than an extra 
4 spokes at this circumference.  I'd think a 26", 32 spoke rhyno lite would be 
quite a bit stronger than a 700c , 36 spoke dyad.  I have a couple of 26", 36 
spoke, phil wheelsets, and they honestly seem overkill for any load.  I think 
you'd have to expect something like that to be custom only.

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[RBW] FINALLY Clemming!

[iamkeith]

Well, a full year and a half after I ordered it, I finally got to take a 
proper ride on my Clem yesterday.  Roads have melted off and been swept 
clear of sand during the past few weeks and, in the course of a few days, 
it went from rain and slush to near 70 degrees and sunny yesterday 
(Thursday.)  With the forecast calling for rain and snow for the weekend, I 
decided I couldn't pass up the opportunity, took the day off, threw some 
cables on the bike, and hit the road for a few hours.   All I can say is 
I'm exhilarated.

I definitely understand the "planing" sensation that people have been 
talking about.   It seems to accelerate like mad, and hold speed well at 
the same time.   I never really had a notion that I was riding anything 
other than a road bike.   Passed people left and right, without even trying 
or exerting myself  (which doesn't mean much, since everybody around here 
is in the same boat of taking their first ride of the year, after a long 
winter.)  I ended up using super moto tires instead of the knobbies I had 
originally planned, so I'm sure they helped too.   

I took the Bosco bars from another bike and set them up similarly to the 
stock Clem build, with some old 6 speed friction shifters. (Something I had 
been thinking about, even before the Clem builds.)   Unlike many others' 
reports though, I think the cockpit was the best part of the ride. Shifting 
was intuitive and flawless (with 9 speed rear), and the pods provided a 
really good rest for my thumbs in a middle grip position, or for my 
forearms in a tuck position when there were headwinds. 

I'm not convinced I like the handling that these bars (or bike?) provide 
for off-road type riding, but I need to spend more time on it.  I find 
myself gripping way forward on the top part of the bars - roughly parallel 
to the steering axis - or else it feels wobbly and unpredictable.  Maybe 
it's just the flexiness of the bar though, which I can learn to trust I 
suppose. On the other hand as I've been saying, if I end up keeping this 
bike, it will likely be for firm surfaces.  Still wish I had an inch or so 
of crotch clearance, and the lack thereof will probably keep me from going 
off road anyway.

Some pics to share inspiration and joy:










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[RBW] Re: 26in wheelset recommendations (inexpensive WTB?)

[iamkeith]

Do a web search for Sun CR18 or Rhyno Lite complete wheelsets.  They are 
very regularly available, from many sources, for less than $200 new for the 
set, with decent quality Shimano or eqivalent hubs.   Usually available in 
all silver, too!  130mm might more often be freewheel instead of cassette 
but, at that price, so what.   Hard to beat that rim quality at any price.

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 10:33:10 AM UTC-6, drew wrote:
>
> aside from my 80's mtb. i am venturing into the world of newer 26in 
> wheels. looking for something that is basically the equivalent of xt/dyad. 
> 36 hole, tough and can take a 2in tire at various pressures. 
>
> the rub is that i need to do this as inexpensively as possible. im in no 
> rush but i want to start looking out for deals.  
>
> also, if you have something that fits the bill, and you wont be insulted 
> by an offensively low offer, let me know. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you prefer Adidas Sambas? Or clipless pedals? Both?

[iamkeith]

I looked into these a while back.  Pretty good idea but FYI, in case it's 
not obvious, you need a shoe with a removable insole, in order to cover the 
backing plate.

I had hoped to convert some of the super wide Keen sandals, which is all I 
wear for 7 months of the year - at least when I don't need to be 
presentable. (Keen actually makes an ultra-narrow SPD bike sandal, but I 
can't even get them on my feet)  Alas, they are not an option, due to the 
construction.

Still, these are a great option for spread-footed guys like me, since bike 
shoes rarely if ever come in wide enough sizes.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hidden Blogs?

[iamkeith]

Well, at this particular moment in time, only one more than half have been 
spoken for, and they're only giving it 6 more days to see if they can sell 
the rest.   Probably a few people on the fence like you, so it might work 
out, but the deal was supposed to be that those truly interested would have 
jumped in quick.  Coming at tax time I'm sure didn't help.   Maybe you 
still have a chance?  My understanding is that if they don't all sell, then 
they won't build any at all.   I don't know if that means they kill the 
project altogether, or try a different size.   

On Thursday, April 14, 2016 at 3:27:46 PM UTC-6, masmojo wrote:
>
> I would probably throw down the greenbacks,  but the timing is just a 
> little off for me. I liked pretty much everything except the wheel size 
> (seems a stretch for the frame size) and the caliper brakes, but neither of 
> those was a deal breaker for me, in fact they interested me in their own 
> way, because it certainly seems like Grant experimenting with something we 
> can only guess at. 
> I don't guess I need to worry though,  because aren't they almost all 
> pre-sold already? 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hidden Blogs?

[iamkeith]

I keep struggling with wanting to avoid talking about this bike, to keep 
from generating interest and competition.  But now, I guess there's a need 
to make sure enough people understand and buy this first model before the 
20th, for the larger version that *I* need and want to even become a 
possibility.

I kind of get the idea that different versions/releases will have different 
geometries and intended/optimal uses, in addition to mere size differences 
(for instance, some may not be intended for reach-back type handlebars?), 
but here are some of my own thoughts on the first geometry and on the 
overall scheme:

First of all obviously, I don't think you can think of this as a 50cm bike 
in the same way you are used to thinking about a 50cm road bike or any 
previous Rivendell.  It's a much bigger bike, and it really isn't "low" at 
all.  *I see the fundamental difference between this and other Rivs as 
being that the top tube slopes DOWN from the junction with the headtube 
whereas, on all previous Rivs, the top tube slopes UP from the junction 
with the seat tube!*  

I'm pretty sure that Charlie Cunningham was the first to do this with his 
mountain and allroad bikes, when everybody else still had level top tubes. 
 He did it to get the handlebars higher (dirt drops) while simultaneously 
gaining crotch clearance, and he made it work by fabricating his own 
seatposts which were longer and stronger and larger diameter than anything 
readily available.  The long post also gave some compliance for comfort.   
Nowadays, this type of geometry is so commonplace with mountain bikes that 
few even list sizes according to seat tube length.  It's either stated in 
terms of top tube length, or simply S, M, L, XL, etc.

I've been pretty vocal/critical in this forum about how Riv's recent switch 
to the "expanded sizing" technique, with the even more exaggerated 6 degree 
UPSLOPE, has been unkind to me, and how few models now seem to fit me.  For 
people with normal proportions or long limbs relative to their torso 
length, the regular models work fantastic.  But for the minority who are 
like me and have long torsos & short limbs, it's terrible - unless a size 
increment happens to fall exactly right.  By the time a frame gets long 
enough to work with my torso, I no longer have enough crotch clearance. 
 Going to a shorter size puts the bars too close and too low since my 
shoulders, where my arms start, are higher and more forward relative to a 
shorter person who would otherwise use the same saddle height and have the 
same clearance needs.

So as much as anything, I'm excited about and hoping to get a R.B. because 
of the promise of it fitting me well.  And I'm REALLY hoping that the one 
in my size will be a functional equivalent to my 59 Clem, which is 
otherwise the exact bike I'd wanted for a long time.  Winter won't release 
its grip here so I STILL haven't had the opportunity to really ride it, but 
I still think it isn't going to work, precisely because of that crotch 
clearance thing.  With luck, maybe it will be for sale in the near future...

All this is not to suggest that this bike might not work for someone with 
normal proportions.  You'd just have more exposed seatpost, like a mountain 
bike.  That's a good thing. If nothing else,  you'd also have a bike that 
you could loan to a shorter friend or spouse, or even allow someone to grow 
into.   Basically I'm just saying that I don't see anything odd about the 
geometry, for how the bike is designed to be used.  The funkatube is 
obviously  a personal preference thing, so I'll leave it at that for now. 
 ;-)


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[RBW] Re: Very clever video

[iamkeith]

Yeah... as someone who DOES still live and do his brevets in the wild, wild 
 west, I kind of have mixed feelings about that.   Clever from a creative 
aspect, but also reminds me of Sara Palin's campaign ads that featured 
Barack Obama in the crosshairs of a gun scope.   You can't really do 
something like this without your true sentiments showing through.

I just happen to be wearing this T-shirt at the moment , so I thought I'd 
share.  This is better.   




It's from a previous Tour de Wyoming - our local and very awesome tour - 
designed to promote fellowship throughout the state.   Lottery is open to 
all, regardless of where you livehint, hint.  

http://www.tourdewyoming.org/

It's getting more popular and harder to get it, but we were successful 
again this year, after a couple of years hiatus.  My 13 year old daughter 
will be joining us this year, for her first.  She'll be riding an XO-1, my 
wife will be riding a Rambouillet, and I'll be riding my All Rounder!  Wooo 
Hooo!!!

I can attest that some of that other mentality does exist in small dark 
corners, but it's the exception rather than the norm these days.   You know 
what's awesome about the *real *west?   Pulling into a small town early on 
a hot afternoon during the Tour, with time to kill, not even having a lock, 
leaving two Rivendell bikes leaning against the outside the movie theater 
on the main street of the town, and not even worrying for a second about 
them still being there after the movie.






On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 at 3:55:43 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm sorry but I didn't find this the least bit humorous, in light of real 
> gun violence or anti cyclist feelings in this country. Although exposing it 
> is the best antiseptic.
>
> Michael
>
> On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 at 3:59:08 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I'm glad I did my brevet series in the Northeast last year instead of the 
>> Wild, Wild West!
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnPUe80oBZw
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO MTB 1" threadless fork.

[iamkeith]

This may or may not work:

http://viciouscycles.com/forks.php3

The shortest one offered is 413mm a-c though, which I think would roughly 
translate to most 80mm travel forks with 15% sag.  The problem, I think, is 
that in '95, most mountain bikes probably had a 63mm travel fork.  The judy 
could be configured either way, by some point.  So it might be too tall. 
 Unfortunately, most aftermarket 1" forks that I've known of have been in 
this 410mm to 413mm range.

On Tuesday, April 12, 2016 at 5:23:20 PM UTC-6, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> I have a 1995 Salsa Ala Carte 18" MTB wirh Judy XC Rocshock. Ideally I'd 
> love an uncut steerer tube and if I'm dreaming anything cage mounts. Does 
> anyone know if such a fork exists new? I sort think not since I have the 1" 
> headset. I'd like to get the handlebars up.
>
> I've also thought about having the existing steerer tube removed and 
> replaced with a longer steerer, but I figure that's probably unlikely with 
> finding a 1" uncut steerer would be next to impossible to find. 
>
> Your thoughts.  
>
> ~Hugh
>Los Angeles, CA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: First S24O of 2016, and first on my Appaloosa, tonight!

[iamkeith]

Great idea - have fun on your trip.  I just got back from 6 wonderful days 
in the desert with my kids, for their spring break.  Don't forget to have 
your son leave his cell phone at home, if he has one.  ;-)

Interesting about the bottle not fitting.  Do you think the 58 or bigger 
frames would have the same problem?

Here's a picture of the bottle cages in my maxed-out touring setup, which 
might work for  you.  3rd position is a mini version of the Nitto "R" cage, 
sized to take a small, store bought water  bottle, which is just slightly 
smaller than a standard size bike bottle, as you can see.   I think I got 
got this from Ben's cycle several years ago.  Not cheap, but does the trick 
AND holds a beer bottle:  

http://www.benscycle.com/p-2885-nitto-stainless-steel-500ml-water-bottle-cage.aspx






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[RBW] Re: Appaloosas set free

[iamkeith]

Damn it!  I couldn't jump on the pre-sale partly because of cash flow at 
the time, but also partly because I didn't know if my recently-purchased 
Clem was going to work out.   

Now all these months later, I STILL don't know if my Clem is going to work 
out, because it's still snowing every stinking day, as it has pretty much 
since I received the thing in October.   Worst and most un-fair release 
schedule ever for a bicycle.   

*I can't believe that, in the time since I ordered my Clem, the Appaloosa 
project was announced, built, shipped, received, ridden by many buyers in 
gentler climates, and is now released in frame-only format!*  

Hopefully the Clem will work and/or bubba won't offer a good replacement 
and/or one of these frames will be left, in my size and color, come June, 
when I know more. 

On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 12:49:42 PM UTC-6, BSWP wrote:
>
> The rrumoured freeing of the Appaloosas has happened, in a limited 
> fashion. Three of each colour/size can be had as F Tempting...
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] Re: 50 t rear cog -- Never walk another hill

[iamkeith]

I just saw that too.   I know this wasn't the point of your posting, but 
I've never figured out why so many people on this board think these large 
cogs are so ridiculous.   I completely understand the goal of eliminating a 
front derailleur and, in my opinion,  this is just now finally... and just 
barely... getting to the point where a 1x drivetrain could be feasible and 
realistic.  Admittedly, it  really only works for mountainous trail riding, 
even then.  I'm assuming you'd use a single front ring around 30 or 32 
teeth, to still have a decent granny gear, so you wouldn't have the tall 
gears needed for road riding, and the steps between the middle cogs would 
probably be too big too.  

You just have to think outside of the road bike and flattish, paved areas, 
to the places where I live and ride.

The things that I think funny are 2x drivetrains.If you're going to 
need a derailleur and shifter anyway,  you might as well add that third 
ring and give yourself all the range you can use.

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:47:56 PM UTC-6, Jim M. wrote:
>
> It's not April Fool's day, so it must be real:
>
> http://www.pinkbike.com/news/oneup-shark-50t-sprocket-kit-review.html
>
>
> jim m
> wc ca
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roscoe Bubba headbadge

[iamkeith]

No.  That Retrotech is more like the classic Excelsior look that is still 
used quite often, with the extra tube being level or sloping slightly down 
toward the back.   The Bubba will likely be the opposite and unique - 
sloping down toward the *front*.

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 10:33:35 AM UTC-6, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Sorta like this Retrotec (no room on the headtube, it attaches to the 
> downtube)? Must be a tall headtube for that Roscoe Bubbe!
>
> [image: Image result for retrotec]
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 12:02:39 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Double-toptube, but it angles down from the top of the seattube to the 
>> bottom of the headtube. For no discernible reason, which is why it's funky 
>> ;) 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: CLEARCOAT o'er baremetal & why we don't do it anymore

[iamkeith]

Fourth post down on this page are some pictures of an old MB-1 that a guy 
stripped to bare metal, added decals to and then, presumably, covered with 
a clear coat of his own:   

http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/official-bridgestone-thread-746084-11.html

Not saying it's the most durable, but the metal has a pretty neat character 
to it, even though its been stripped. And not something you'd want to do to 
an expensive frame, but certainly an option for a cheap, fun project, for 
someone who's willing to be diligent about maintenance, and/or who lives in 
an arid area like me.

I've also wondered how a simple carnauba wax would work, if it was applied 
intermittently.

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[RBW] Re: ROSCO mailing list

[iamkeith]

Not to mention - The more people feel compelled to talk about the project, 
the more other people might become interested in it, and the more people 
who will be competing for the handful of bikes that happen to be my (or 
your) size.  Shhh!!!

On Tuesday, March 15, 2016 at 2:30:11 PM UTC-6, sameness wrote:
>
> Just FYI in a totally not-telling-anyone-else-what-to-do sorta way, but I 
> asked the powers that be if I could post said pic on the group, and the 
> polite response was that I please keep it under wraps at this stage of the 
> game.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Tuesday, March 15, 2016 at 1:21:45 PM UTC-7, Jack B wrote:
>>
>> Anyone else catch the photo in latest email update? I am surprised to 
>> find that I am digging the "funkatube". Have always been on the fence about 
>> 2TT models, but this looks kinda fun.
>>
>> -JB
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: MIESHA HAS LEFT RIVENDELL

[iamkeith]

Just stumbled upon this in the Spring, 2004 Reader, while looking for 
something else.  Kinda bittersweet, but appropriate.



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[RBW] Re: PSA: 56cm Rambouillet on Los Angeles Craigslist

[iamkeith]

Not trying to convince you to do anything - just complete my own thoughts, 
at this point.   I just checked again to see if my recollection was wrong, 
but it isn't.   Ram is indeed shorter than the same size Quickbeam, despite 
charts saying otherwise.   (It's closer to a cm difference than a full 
1/2", though.)  Or perhaps they might both be accurate, but specified 
differently:   ie.,QB is 58cm *actual*, where Ram is 58cm *effective*. 

Still can't find the quote by Grant, but here's one from Sheldon that seems 
to jive:  http://www.sheldonbrown.com/org/rambouillet/

"I've admired Grant Petersen's frame designs for quite a while, but most of 
his older designs had longer top tubes than I like, so I never found one 
that was a good fit for me.

As a result, I was delighted to find that his Rambouillet does, indeed fit 
me quite nicely, in the 58 cm size"


On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 1:33:25 PM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Oops.. I meant 52, ,54, or 56.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 56cm Rambouillet on Los Angeles Craigslist

[iamkeith]

Are you looking at the geometry charts and saying you like shorter top 
tubes than this particular bike features, or are you saying you prefer 
shorter top tubes as a general preference?   If the later, you might still 
consider.   I can't remember where it's written, but Grant once said 
something to the effect of "we designed the Ram with shorter top tubes than 
our other bikes, for their respective size, because we wanted to encourage 
people to buy the next size up."  

Additionally confirming this (and also making the geometry charts slightly 
suspect to me) is my own comparison between my 60 Ram and my 60 Quickbeam. 
  The charts indicate the same 58cm top tube length for both but, in 
reality as measured with a tape, the Ram is actually 1/2" shorter than the 
QB.

I'll keep searching for that quote...

On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 8:59:00 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I like blue Rambouillets the best. I fall in the category of a 56, but I 
> like shorter TT's so I would get a 54 if I were to get one.

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[RBW] Re: Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[iamkeith]

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 8:04:31 AM UTC-7, Justin August wrote:
>
> I'm curious if you can use 650b+ wheels on the regular Jones 29 frames.
>
> -Justin
>

You can, but not the largest versions of them.  The dimple in the 
chainstays doesn't align with the widest part of the tire.  On the other 
hand, the eccentric bottom bracket allows you to compensate for the drop, 
which is probably necessary because it's already kind of low, just like 
Rivendell. But that makes the bike effectively smaller, so this idea 
probably works best for smaller riders.   Several examples out there, 
though.  Watch this GIF image on his blog toggle back and forth between 
them:

http://blog.jonesbikes.com/650b-27-5-wheels-in-a-jones-29-spaceframe/

A better idea in my opinion, is using smaller 29+ tires, which is what I've 
done.   The only problem is that the fat front tire had to get really big, 
in order to match the diameter of the rear tire, to the point of 
sacrificing ride quality.   Trek will be releasing a 650b Barbegazzi tire 
any time now, and I'm hoping that will solve the problem by achieving the 
correct height at a slightly lower volume.


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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[iamkeith]

Wow.  I keep trying to figure out why someone would do this, and the only 
thing I can come up with is that it's a "test run," to get a feel for the 
market and see how easy it would be to fence such a bike.  If any of you in 
the Southern CA area have a similar bike and can't be certain that someone 
hasn't been scoping it out, you might want to keep a tight reign on it for 
a while.   Keep it in your bedroom or something.

Probably not right to post it in this thread, but someone might want to 
save the contact info, in case a theft does occur after this posting has 
disappeared, so there's a starting point of a lead.

Hope I'm wrong.  This maxes out my capacity for paranoia and conspiracy 
theory for the next full year. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[iamkeith]

oops - forgot to add the photo:

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8KBZJkgVUpg/VuNaEYnfazI/ASk/7OAOqaqSaFI1Qd8Vd5zFB6M47KYiWJLeA/s1600/rearfender1.jpg>


On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 4:50:45 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Not to hijack Bill's thread, but I thought this was interesting.  Same B65 
> fenders on my Clem. 
>
> First of all, I hadn't noticed or considered it until reading this 
> discussion, but sure enough - the chain did in fact rub on the fender in 
> the lowest two gears.   What's interesting is that I was able to fix it by 
> adding just a small notch.   The *rest* of the fender could be retained 
> because it fits easily  between the longer stays,  at its full width.   And 
> look how much more spacer the Clem requires, compared to the Appaloosa!  I 
> strongly suspect that its just a matter of time before long chainstays, 
> like those on the Appalossa, look completely normal to all of us.   After 
> staring at the Clem all winter, I already think traditional short 
> chainstays look kind of funny.  And that's without even having ridden the 
> Clem yet...
>
> On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:06:31 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Pics prove my morning coffee run has a nice view, and proves that I can 
>> dremel plastic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQdjFLwRHc4/VuG3VFRVP2I/DKU/HQ_erjeE3pIfWMRlhlsOq1A1-svNq-Qyw/s1600/IMG_0859.JPG>
>>
>> Detail of the drive side rear B65 fender.  On the non-drive side I had to 
>> cutaway just the section for the chainstay.  On the driveside that cutout 
>> extends much higher to provide chain clearance for when I'm in the small 
>> chainring.  
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[iamkeith]

Not to hijack Bill's thread, but I thought this was interesting.  Same B65 
fenders on my Clem. 

First of all, I hadn't noticed or considered it until reading this 
discussion, but sure enough - the chain did in fact rub on the fender in 
the lowest two gears.   What's interesting is that I was able to fix it by 
adding just a small notch.   The *rest* of the fender could be retained 
because it fits easily  between the longer stays,  at its full width.   And 
look how much more spacer the Clem requires, compared to the Appaloosa!  I 
strongly suspect that its just a matter of time before long chainstays, 
like those on the Appalossa, look completely normal to all of us.   After 
staring at the Clem all winter, I already think traditional short 
chainstays look kind of funny.  And that's without even having ridden the 
Clem yet...

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:06:31 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Pics prove my morning coffee run has a nice view, and proves that I can 
> dremel plastic
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Detail of the drive side rear B65 fender.  On the non-drive side I had to 
> cutaway just the section for the chainstay.  On the driveside that cutout 
> extends much higher to provide chain clearance for when I'm in the small 
> chainring.  
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[iamkeith]

I'm kind of clumsy with my words sometimes, and frequently put my foot in 
my mouth or insult people in on-line forums - without meaning to.   You 
typically don't suffer from the same malady, Patrick, so I hope you'll take 
this in the kindest possible way, as it is intended:  

You're reading something into Bill's comments that isn't there.   Go for a 
ride,  have a beer, take a nap or whatever. and then come back and read 
it again.  I think you'll see, there is no disagreement, or need for public 
altercation.

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>  Rest of you: sorry, but perhaps the altercation will be entertaining. I 
> can assure you I'm not timid!
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: NOS 56 Rambouillett on KC Craigslist

[iamkeith]

On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 10:50:49 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> Does anyone have the Geo chart for the Ram? I went to the cyclofiend pages 
> and did a quick scan. Thanks,
>
>
> ~Hugh
>
 
It's in this chart:

cyclofiend.com/rbw/geometry.html 

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[RBW] Re: Used Rambouillet Value?

[iamkeith]

Dave (and Mark),

Just in case you aren't aware of this, or missed the crux of what Toshi was 
saying in his post above, the Ram makes a reasonably good candidate for a 
650b conversion.   That would give you, Dave, the fatter tires you desire 
and you, Mark, room for some good fenders that you want.

On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 6:58:03 PM UTC-7, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> Mine is #22 a 56cm and it has a solid rear dropout and pointier lugs on 
> the headtube. I rarely ride it, preferring fatter tires these days, but my 
> girlfriend insists I keep it as it is my loveliest bike and can't be 
> replaced easily.
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Any Gevenalle users?

[iamkeith]

Do a topic search using the name "retroshift," which was what they called 
themselves until recently.  (or follow link below):

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/retroshift

Looks like there are a few threads discussing them.  I don't have any first 
hand experience or knowledge to add though.

I like Kelly Takeoff mounts.  Something else to consider:

http://kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html


On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 11:01:02 AM UTC-7, Jack Doran wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> I saw the Gevenalle shifters at NAHBS last week and have been considering 
> giving their Audax model a go. I really like the Paul thumbies for 
> providing a means of friction shifting near my hand position on Alba bars, 
> and I am interested in getting something similar on drop bars.  
>
> So I'm wondering if any of you have experience with the Gevenalle design. 
> Is there much of a learning curve? Any issues with the shifters interfering 
> with braking when you're riding on the hoods? 
>
> Jack
>

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[RBW] Re: Used Rambouillet Value?

[iamkeith]

On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 1:52:37 PM UTC-7, George Schick wrote:

  Finally, I'm curious about the manf. date of your Ram.  Reason I say that 
is because I notice that the drive side dropout has a slender, "split" 
design as opposed to the usual solid ones.  Mine has the same thing.  If 
you don't mind sharing, I'm curious about the serial number of the frame to 
see if it's close to mine.  Lots of other orange Rams shown on this blog do 
not have that same dropout.
>
>
> Thanks, George
>

My blue one has that same split dropout.  I think it is a 2006 and, if I 
recall correctly, that jives with the chronology of the serial number 
archive on the Cyclofiend site.

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Re: [RBW] Used Rambouillet Value?

[iamkeith]

That's in beautiful condition!  This is total "gut feeling," so take it for 
what it's worth.   Based on what other upper end, well-spec'd Rivendells in 
good condition typically sell for, I'd think it much closer to the $2,000 
range of that Legolas than the $800 range of that Romulus.  I might be 
biased, though.  With snow starting to melt, I was just today looking 
expectantly at mine, and admiring how nicely made it was made.  I know it 
was originally intended as Riv's first "attainable" model, designed to cost 
less than the semi-custom models of the day, but it has some really nice 
touches that a lot of the newer models just don't (can't) have. Graceful, 
double-tapered seat stays, extra windows painted in,  nicely thinned lug 
edges.  And that multi-step, labor-intensive orange is one of the most 
beautiful Riv colors ever.  You kind of have to see it in person to 
appreciate all this, though.  To me, the only things not perfect about the 
Ram are the limited tire clearance and the lack of rack brazeons on the 
front fork - but for someone in the market for a go-fast, those probably 
aren't important.  Sorry you have to let it go.

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 12:05:33 PM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Ebay "sold" listings is a good start.
>
> $1350 Bleriot 
> 
> <$2k Betty Foy (best offer accepted) 
> 
> $800 Romulus 
> 
> $1200 Quickbeam 
> 
> $2000 Legolas 
> 
> $1390 Sam 
> 
>
> You could also search this forum for FS listings from the past.
>
> Since the Rambouillet was the "fancy" brother of the Romulus, a price of 
> more than $800 would be fair, up to whatever you think is reasonable.  
>
> Orange is a very popular color for Rivendells.
>
> I recommend that you keep the nice accessories (especially the B17 Ti); 
> you won't get their value in a complete bike sale.  
> Many bikes are sold without any accessories, pedals, or seat, since new 
> owners like to customize those things for themselves.
>
> As for me, my Rivs are 59 cm and I'm short on funds after my Roadeo 
> purchase.
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Mark Williams  > wrote:
>
>>
>> 
>> We are downsizing to a much smaller home so I'm having to let go of some 
>> treasures, among them is my 54 cm Rambouillet, but I don't have a clue 
>> about its value.  I ordered one from Rivendell but the rear brake bridge 
>> was too high and I didn't want to file anything down to make it fit, so 
>> Grant sent me another frame with the correct dimensions which is this one.  
>> It is all 8 speed Ultegra (except for the front derailleur which is Sora 
>> because it shifts better), DT rims Continental tires, Brooks B17 titanium 
>> with a pretty seatpost (but I don't remember the brand), Nitto stem, 
>> mustache bars and a Nitto  seat bag rack.
>> I would appreciate any advice on pricing as I can't find a current 
>> similar bike for sale anywhere!
>> Thanks
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Choco cockpit, bullmoose, VO cockpit

[iamkeith]

OH  That makes more sense.   Thanks!

On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 8:48:10 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> iamkeith
>
> Drew can confirm, but what I see is that Drew only posted photos of his 
> Velo Orange Cockpit.  None of his posted photos depict the Choco bars that 
> he was selling.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 7:44:39 PM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>>
>> Sorry to hear you didn't like the Choco Bars, Drew, and hope they work 
>> out for the new owner.   I still want to try them sooner than later, but 
>> now I have a question if you don't mind responding.
>>
>> I keep staring at your photos, and thinking something doesn't look right. 
>>  They look really narrow.   I was surprised when I got the new Reader and 
>> it disclosed that they were going to be only 53.5cm wide, but yours look 
>> even narrower than that.  They also don't seem to have the slight forward 
>> and downward bends I've seen in other photos.  Were these a proto-choco bar 
>> that you got, or is it just an optical illusion?  Or do you know?
>>
>> Sorry to Hijack your sale thread.   You can respond off list and I can 
>> delete this, but I thought others might be interested too, just for the 
>> sake of sharing knowledge. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Choco cockpit, bullmoose, VO cockpit

[iamkeith]

Ha!.  Going totally off topic now, but I just noticed the GTNP map poster 
on your workbench.  I've had that exact same one on the wall in my bedroom 
for over 30 years.  Awesome... and my neighborhood.  You don't happen to 
live nearby, do you?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Choco cockpit, bullmoose, VO cockpit

[iamkeith]

Sorry to hear you didn't like the Choco Bars, Drew, and hope they work out 
for the new owner.   I still want to try them sooner than later, but now I 
have a question if you don't mind responding.

I keep staring at your photos, and thinking something doesn't look right. 
 They look really narrow.   I was surprised when I got the new Reader and 
it disclosed that they were going to be only 53.5cm wide, but yours look 
even narrower than that.  They also don't seem to have the slight forward 
and downward bends I've seen in other photos.  Were these a proto-choco bar 
that you got, or is it just an optical illusion?  Or do you know?

Sorry to Hijack your sale thread.   You can respond off list and I can 
delete this, but I thought others might be interested too, just for the 
sake of sharing knowledge. 

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar flex?

[iamkeith]

If  what's happening is what I think is happening, it's actually a 
"torsion" that he's seeing.  At least that's what I determined about my 
Bosco, which is sort of similar in that it is has a non-compound "C" shape, 
as viewed from the top.   So the front, straight section is likely 
"twisting," which allows the side/grip end portions to "dip."  I'm pretty 
sure I see that deflection even while the stem stays mostly un-flexed.  The 
Albatross and moustache bars, by contrast, curve forward before they curve 
backward, so there's the strength of a compound curve.  Plus a much shorter 
straight section adjacent to the stem clamp - with less material available 
to twist.

However I do agree that the stem is likely contributing.  I just moved my 
Boscos from a steel 140mm mtb stem to a 130mm tallux for my Clem, and the 
overall setup IS noticeably flexier, even if just by a bit.

What I meant about confirming the heat treatment was basically what Bill 
said:  They should be plenty strong, so don't let the flex make you 
nervous.  Ride them the way you want to.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar flex?

[iamkeith]

If you think that's radical, you should try the aluminum Bosco bars!  The 
reality though, in my experience, is that such flex is much less noticeable 
during actual use, and can actually be a very nice thing - stopping a lot 
of vibration from transmitting to your hands.Sitting on a stationary 
bike and loading the handlebars always makes the flex seem drastic. 

The bars have the red "heat treated" sticker, right?  If so, you should 
give them a good try and let us know how you feel after using them for a 
bit.  I'm jealous - and can't wait to get some myself.

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 1:30:58 PM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> Got around to installing the choco bars this morning. Non moose. Heat 
> treated aluminum. Paired with a 130mm Tallux, there is a considerable 
> amount of flex when held on the ends. 
> I've had albatross bars (with 120mm stem) and albastache on this bike and 
> though I know some flex was happening, never really noticed or felt it, 
> even when heavily front loaded. 
>
> So How much is normal? Sitting idly on the bike and rocking some of my 
> weight on the front, I can visibly see the bars flexing several mm each 
> way, which is a new experience for me and is making me question putting 
> these on a rough stuff touring bike. 
>

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[RBW] Girl's Bikes: Not Just for Parts Anymore

[iamkeith]

Hope this isn't too off topic, but thought some of you would get a kick out 
of it.  Interesting especially if you've read or heard Grant's brief 
history of the bicycle, and the part about how the post-war motor vehicle 
fascination influenced things.   

I *thought *this was going to be an article about how mixte frames are 
finally finding favor among men.

http://www.ratrodbikes.com/spaceliner-tank-kit

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[RBW] Re: ROSCO mailing list

[iamkeith]

Assuming a lot of the list is made up of people like me, I'd say that it is 
PROBABLE that most drop off.  Not because I/they are afraid of a radical 
design, or don't want a tig welded Rivendell, or are put off by the idea of 
having to trust and pre-pay for something that's somewhat unknown, or 
anything like that. More just because I don't want/need to be "greedy."  

I'm super fortunate in that I have three Rivendell bikes (Rambouillet, All 
Rounder, Clem) that do most of what I could ever need or want.   And my 
wife has a Ram, too.   If these new bikes are too redundant to those, it 
would be kind of silly to buy one, just because the price is good.If, 
however, there is something that fills the slot of, say, the fat-tire 
Hunqapillar trail bike that I've always wanted AND would actually fit me or 
my wife, then I'd have a pretty hard time saying " no."  Otherwise, I'd 
probably let somebody else have the opportunity.  It's just hard to know at 
this point, without being on the list.

Of course, there's always the unknown and unpredictable issue of personal 
cash flow too, which is what kept me from getting a, Appaloosa for my wife 
during the pre-sale.  Same for everyone here, I'm sure.

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Re: [RBW] 26" vs. 700c for touring/load hauling

[iamkeith]

Sorry... that is my 60, not 59.

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Re: [RBW] 26" vs. 700c for touring/load hauling

[iamkeith]

So, what I really want to know, Hugh, is why you'd sell your 26 Atlantis.



I might as well post this, too.  I showed a different picture in the Rat 
Trap Pass discussion a while back, but this is my 59 with those new tires, 
just before it started snowing last fall.  I've been absolutely giddy with 
anticipation, waiting for the opportunity to get back on it this coming 
summer.



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[RBW] Re: PSA: Compass cycling knickers back in stock

[iamkeith]

All I see are XS.  Did I miss this already?!  Crap.

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 5:07:24 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:
>
> Looks like all sizes of the Compass Bicycles riding knickers are back in 
> stock, in gray (no more khaki, yay!). Supposedly some modest improvements 
> over the last version. Mine should arrive tomorrow, just in time for the 
> weekend! It's been a lovely two weeks of dry weather here in Nor Cal, 
> hoping to get out for a good ride this weekend.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Neil
>

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Re: [RBW] 26" vs. 700c for touring/load hauling

[iamkeith]

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 4:49:17 PM UTC-7, Norman Bone wrote:
>
> Thanks Hugh!
>
> It looks like 59 was a large as you could go with 26. Catalog says 61, 63 
> and 65 went to 700c
>
>
I'm guessing that this particular catalog excerpt was from later in the 
period of model availability, and reflected a change that occurred at some 
point.   As noted, mine is 60cm and has 26" wheels.   And I know of at 
least one *larger* than mine (assuming 61cm, picture attached below) that 
also has 26" wheels.   Prior to 1999, it may be that this size still fell 
below the "cutoff" between 26 and 700c, or it may just be the case that 
nothing larger was ever ordered/built.

I still kind of think that, at first,  they were ALL  26" though.   
Remember that the original reason for using 26" tires was that there were 
no 700c tires that had enough volume. (Or at least very few.)  At some 
point, that obviously changed.

If I'm correct, it looks like the change might have actually happened mid 
1999, comparing with Norman's info,  and corresponded to a change in 
builders  (Joe Starck, earlier in the year, used 26", and Match, later in 
the year, used 700c?)  Or who knows... maybe there was an option to choose 
for a short period during the overlap.



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Re: [RBW] 26" vs. 700c for touring/load hauling

[iamkeith]

I have a large (60cm) with 26" wheels. 1999 model year.  Others are much 
more knowledgeable about changes and history, but my understanding is that 
2000 is when they switched to 700c for the larger models, so that would 
jive.

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 2:53:08 PM UTC-7, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> Do any listmembers have a large Riv All Rounder w/26" wheels. I recall 
> that the first AR's in all sizes were 26" wheeled. Can anyone verify. My 
> own AR is from 2000, a 64 cm and is 700 c.  Steve
> Apache Junction, Az.
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016, Hugh Smitham  > wrote:
>
>> It's my perception that the 26" wheel is easier to get rolling and keep 
>> rolling than 650b & 700c wheels. For me at least my Atlantis seems to climb 
>> better than those other sizes and I have all three sizes. I've seen old MTB 
>> & Touring large frames with 26" and the riders didn't seem to mind. I'll 
>> grant that the larger wheel size looks proportionally better on a large 
>> frame. And I hear a lot of comments on off road riding that the 29er size 
>> rolls over obstructions better than the 26" but I have no practical 
>> experience with that size off road. My 26" wheels have always been fine off 
>> road. On availability I've been told the 26" wheel size is 
>> ubiquitous overseas, so if you're a world traveler then it would seem 
>> prudent to use a 26" wheel. 
>>
>> We're witnessing a boom in adventure bikes in the 29er and 27.5 category. 
>> Those sizes seem risky overseas for the availability issue I mentioned 
>> above. Beyond, availability and aesthetic what makes those sizes better 
>> than 26"? It's not chubbier tires because the smaller wheel size can 
>> accommodate more rubber with correct frame clearance design, example fat 
>> tire bikes & the Rawland Ravn and I get the proportion deal but it all 
>> seems like a component manufacturers push. I'm sure there's a Jan Heine 
>> article out there on why 650b is the favored randonneur wheel size but I 
>> bet a 26" would work fine for those events. Anyway, very good question 
>> John. It seems the question has been answered regarding why Riv doesn't 
>> have 26" in the larger sized frames. 
>>
>>
>> Tail Winds,
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 16, 2016 at 10:46:53 AM UTC-8, john wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm wondering about the difference in tire sizes for loaded touring.
>>>
>>> Wouldn't a 26" wheel work better for loaded touring, regardless of the 
>>> frame size?
>>>
>>> Why therefore doesn't Rivendell offer 26" wheels in their larger 
>>> touring-capable frames, like the Atlantis and Hunq?
>>>
>>> What am I missing here?
>>>
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>
>
> -- 
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> Plymouth, New Hampshiret
>

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[RBW] Re: 26" vs. 700c for touring/load hauling

[iamkeith]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned "stability."  I don't have enough 
experience to really know if it's true but, along with the worldwide 
availability, I always thought that was one of the main arguments for 26" 
wheels.  Basically, the idea that the lower gyroscopic  center of gravity 
of the wheels made the bike more stable and less prone to being blown or 
tipped over - which I assume is more important the bigger the load you're 
carrying. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dia compe knob grip?

[iamkeith]

22.2 is the diameter of the grip are of the bar of the bosco and most 
upright / mtb bars.   23.8 is the grip area diameter of most drop bars.

By resurrecting this thread, I take it you found a current source?  

Missed the thread when it was new, but here are some pictures of how I use 
them.  Same way as the stoker dummys were used on the original XO-1.  They 
give a little more knee clearance, but still make the extra grip position 
viable.  I love them and use the position often on long rides.   Sadly, the 
bars aren't this pretty any more.   Must have taken these shots right after 
building the bikes.





On Sunday, February 14, 2016 at 8:57:19 AM UTC-7, El Sapo wrote:
>
> They have a couple of different sizes. 
> 22.2 & 23.8
> Which is the right one for the bosco bullmoose?

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[RBW] Re: New 1 1/8" threadless stem on 2/10 Blug

[iamkeith]

David,  you're a damn encyclopedia of obscure-but-valuable parts sources, 
sometimes!

On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 8:03:27 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Here you go: http://store.fairweather.cc/store/p35/NITTO__MCR65_STEM_.html

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[RBW] Re: Thunder Burt Wisdom...

[iamkeith]

just reading this thread for the first time myself.   There's a post from 
Hugh near the top that cites 47.5mm on 23mm rims Presumably for the 2.1 x 
26" tire.

On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 9:37:21 AM UTC-7, Michael Cinibulk wrote:
>
> What reading do you get from calipers on width of the 2.1,and 2.25 TBs? 
> Are Schwalbes generally true to size on old school MTB rims? 
>
> Mike C

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[RBW] Re: New 1 1/8" threadless stem on 2/10 Blug

[iamkeith]

Patrick, 

For what it's worth, I have used and/or am still using about a half dozen 
of the old Ritchey Force stems which, as Kieran noted, are similar to this 
stem in that they have no removable face plate AND have a broader, 
squared-off, mtb style clamp area (as opposed to the road/drop bar style 
with the clipped bottom corners).  And some old steel salsa stems too, 
which have  a similar shape clamp area.   

I've been able to fit pretty much any handlebar I want into them, 
*including* some drop bars with some pretty drastic/sharp curves.  The 
trickiest was a Salsa Woodchipper, but Albatross, Bosco and Moustache bars 
are no problem whatsoever.   The nice thing about a steel stem is that you 
can spread the clamp further, more easily, and with less risk of damage 
than you can a forged stem.  I'm sure there's a limit and you need to be 
prudent, but I can't imagine an exisiting 25.4 bar that couldn't work.  I'm 
sure you know the reverse-the-bolt-and-stick-a-coin-in-the-gap trick for 
spreading.

Obviously it's not as quick to change stems as it is if you have a 
removable plate, but I'm guessing there won't be much experimenting and 
fine-tuning going on anyway.   This stem fills a HUGE void in the 
marketplace but will either work or it won't.  Unless they offer multiple 
extension lengths or rise angles?  Barring that, I really like the classic 
look of the single bolt, and can't wait until the stem is available.


On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 10:18:10 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> High rise with 25.4 mm clamp; looks promising. But puh *leeze* make the 
> clamp with a removable face plate!
>
> The larger Grabsack also looks good, but alas it is designed for a 13" 
> laptop, not the 15" I have. They should add a waist strap, too.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clemmin' Around

[iamkeith]

Very nice!  You're making me stir crazy, though.  

Hope your daughter is doing well, by the way.

Hey, here's a question I've been wondering:  Are the pulleys on the Altus 
derailleur floating (have some side-to-side slop)? The floating pulleys of 
the typical, older shimano derailleurs is the reason that so many odd 
shifter/derailleur combinations have worked for me.  But it seems like, as 
engineering gets more precise and group-specific, some of that flexibility 
is being engineered out of newer components.  I don't think, for instance, 
that the 10 speed mtn shimano derailleurs have any float at all, but I'd 
have to confirm.

On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:21:43 PM UTC-7, Tim Wood wrote:
>
> On Monday, February 8, 2016 at 8:45:01 AM UTC-8, ian m wrote:
> > I think it's the combination of the sun race shifters and the Altus 
> derailler. I was using the same shifters with an XTR derailler and had 0 
> problems with mis shifts. As soon as I hooked up the Altus I've experienced 
> the same shifting problems as everyone else, especially under load. It's a 
> good enough derailler but the combination just doesn't work well
>
> Good real world evidence, I like it. Maybe those large pullies on the 
> Altus aren't all they're cracked up to be and exaggerated the chain line 
> and maybe they flex or twist under load?  
>
> Wanted to share some photos from yesterday's ride as the sun made a 
> spectacular appearance in the Vancouver area and when that happens you have 
> to rush out to enjoy it. I went for a nice 35km along the water and through 
> some new trails, check it out: 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 1 1/8" threadless stem on 2/10 Blug

[iamkeith]

What size stem would you need, Joe?  I've got a bunch of quality old quill 
stems lying around that I'll likely never use, so am happy to pass on to a 
good home if one will work. 

Funny, isn't it Patrick, that this new stem is 1 1/8"  while Bontrager 
happened to be the last holdout, *other* than Rivendell, of 1" forks?!  A 
couple of the places I could see myself most urgently utilizing this stem 
are actually on 1" bikes too... like my bontrager.  

It's just "Keith," but the way.  I AM Keith.   Inside joke that's no longer 
funny, but I ended up using it for my profile on all forums where I 
participate.

On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:11:14 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've appreciated the open face-plate when going through my notoriously 
> obsessive process of dialing in stem length - buy a stem, swap it in 
> without undoing bar stuff, don't like it, buy another stem, repeat - but 
> that feature is pointless once you know the length you need. Per Grant's 
> caution, I have to admit I don't entirely trust the connection of these 
> things. Right now my CLEM has a threadless-on-quill-adaptor 'cause that's 
> what I had around, but it's going to get a proper quill single-bolt stem 
> eventually. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 1 1/8" threadless stem on 2/10 Blug

[iamkeith]

130-140 is easy.  Most of my stuff is from '80s 90's mountain bikes, where 
the entire goal was to go over the handlebars as often as possible.  ;-)   
Might not have anything as elegant as nitto, but will have good quality. 
 I'll take some pictures tomorrow and PM you.

On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 5:04:42 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hi Keith, who am. I need a pretty long stem, 130 or 140, 25.4 clamp. 
> That's usually threadless open-face territory, which is how I ended up with 
> the one that's on there now. Whatcha got?

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[RBW] Reviews and/or photos of Big Ben 700c X 55 tires?

[iamkeith]

Is anybody in a position to share experiences with these tires?   I'm able 
to find photos and comments for the 50mm version, but *nothing* about the 
55mm version. Photos of them mounted on a bike would be fantastic! 

On the surface, it looks like it might provide a good compromise of the 
traits I'm seeking, but it kind of falls at the absolute skinniest end of 
the size range I'd want. If it runs true to size, it could work. But, if it 
runs small, then I don't know.   I believe (hope) that all of the photos on 
the website are of the 50mm version, so there's no way to even judge.  I'm 
slightly worried about it being too stiff too, but that's only because I've 
been spoiled by increasingly supple tires over the past few years.

I know that this group tends to gravitate that direction as well - like the 
new Big One which is a *great* size, but I think that might be too fragile. 
  I'm a little skeptical even of the Super Moto which, as far as I can 
tell, is a level up from the Big One in terms of both traction and 
durability.  Or could that the best choice? 

I'm thinking about putting these on my Clem which I bought with the 
intention of setting up more as an off-pavement dirt/trail bike but, 
because of the fit,  now think will be better suited as a pathway/town 
bike.   I'll still need to use it on some rough, rocky.. but level.. 
surfaces though.   All academic until the snow melts, but I'm dying to ride 
this bike and want to be ready to roll.

Thanks for whatever info you've got

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[RBW] Re: Latest Blug, MUSA clothing, and Crapmanship

[iamkeith]

Just wanted to add my voice of sorrow/disappointment at the discontinuation 
of MUSA clothes.   It took me too long to finally try them all, so I admit 
I wasn't the best patron.  But I will say that, since figuring out how 
great they were, I've tried MANY times to stock up, only to find no 
inventory in my size.  If forced, I guess I can live without my pants and 
shorts once my existing pairs wear out... *but I don't know how I'll EVER 
live without my knickers!!!*

IF ANYBODY ELSE IS INTERESTED IN PRE-PAYING TO ELIMINATE THE CASH FLOW 
ISSUE, AND BEGGING RIV TO MAKE A GROUP/BULK ORDER, I'M IN FOR AT LEAST 
SEVERAL PAIR OF KNICKERS, AND POSSIBLY SOME PANTS AND SHORTS, TOO.   If 
that's what it takes, that's what it takes!  

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[RBW] Re: Stripped CLEM dropout braze-on

[iamkeith]

Sounds like you've got this figured out, Joe, but here are a couple of 
notes from my own experience mounting the Clem/Pletscher rack to my Clem 
frame, in case it helps others, or in case you want to experiment further:

1.  I've so far opted for the biggest tires I can fit, on my 59/700c frame 
- 2.4" Maxis Ardents in this case.  As such, the rear rack struts weren't 
nearly wide enough to clear the tire.  An easy fix was to cut the rivets 
off, and re-mount the struts to the *outside* of the lugs on the bottom of 
the rack, using one of the many extra bolts that are included.  To do this, 
I also had to cut off the tabs that held the mini-pump pegs.   About 5 
minutes work with a dremel tool, but I think it actually looks better.  See 
picture below.


2.  I too attached to the extra M6 brazeons located higher up on the seat 
stays.  Because of the overall height of the 29er tire, I was also forced 
to use the stamped metal tabs to get enough vertical clearance.  I mounted 
them to the *inside* of the brazeons, even with the relocated, wider rear 
struts .   However I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet that a 
52 or 45cm frame (or even a 59cm with a smaller tire) could use this rack 
*without* the metal tabs!  I personally think those  are the only mickey 
mouse detail on an otherwise stout and much-nicer-than-I-ever-expected 
rack.  Basically, just bolt the struts directly to the brazeon.   The 
shifted geometry would mean that forward strut wouldn't be quite vertical, 
but I can't see why that would matter.  And the platform would shift 
slightly forward when set to level, but the Clem has *plenty* of room to 
spare.  (Hope that makes sense...)


On Monday, February 8, 2016 at 3:23:29 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ugh, I give up kids. I switched to the lower M5 eyelet, which had the rack 
> to far away for the upper struts to reach seatstay eyelets. So I found a 
> couple M6 bolts and tried the original location. This caused the flat steel 
> lower mounting plate to interfere with the Breezer-style dropout, also 
> preventing the rack from reaching the seatstay eyelets. The lower-cost rack 
> intended for the lower-cost Riv does not fit the bike. Oy!

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[iamkeith]

Oops. Looks like I was posting from my phone at the same time as garth , so 
that was  confusing.  We're saying the same thing.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq Effective TT

[iamkeith]

I don't know for sure either , but my recollection is the opposite:  the tables 
for the  older models show the actual length , while the newer ones like the 
hunq with the 6 degree slope list the effective length.  Worth a call to 
confirm.

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[RBW] Re: Wow. California gets mud.

[iamkeith]

Beautiful pictures, as always.   From the looks of that reservoir, it seems 
you guy scan still use a lot MORE rain - is that right?   Count your 
blessings no matter what - pictures like this always make me jealous of the 
fact that you can actually ride this time of year.

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[RBW] Re: 130 to 135 OLD

[iamkeith]

For the final, precision truing, you can essentially turn your frame into a 
truing stand by attaching a pair of zip ties to the stays, directly 
opposite the rim.  Trim the extra strip so that they are just slightly 
longer than needed to touch the rim, and then rotate and slide them until 
they don't quite touch but are as >close< as possible.   Just like with a 
real truing stand, they will rub a spinning wheel to indicate any wobble, 
 high spots, or out-of-round spots.   The dish part is done by eyeball,  by 
looking for equidistant space on either side of the tire between the 
forward part of the chainstays.   Or you can use a rule of some sort.  That 
part isn't as precise as using a dish tool, but it actually gives better 
results anyway because sometimes bikes aren't built perfectly symmetrical 
anyway. 

I think I have some ties attached to a frame somewhere.   I can take a 
snapshot in the daylight tomorrow, if you need.

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 5:31:49 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> What is "the zip-tie method" ?

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[RBW] Re: 130 to 135 OLD

[iamkeith]

Is the XT hub sealed or loose ball bearing?   I'm not sure it even makes  a 
difference, but for loose ball and many sealed bearing hubs, this is an 
extremely easy swap.   If you don't have a disposable 135 donor hub/wheel 
lying around, from which you can steal the axle, they are available from 
Wheels Mfg: 

 http://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-axles.html 

Then, you also need 5mm worth of spacers, also available at Wheels Mfg.:

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/axle-spacers.html

If you are not comfortable re-dishing the wheel, you can put 2.5mm spacers 
on either side, beneath the lock nuts.   However, it is easier and works 
better if you add all 5mm to the non-drive side.   This locates the 
cassette at the typical left-right position, relative to the dropout.  You 
do have to re-dish slightly, but that has the gives you the added bonus of 
a more symmetrical and stronger wheel, too.   It's such a minor amount that 
it is easy to do with the wheel mounted on the bike, using the zip-tie 
method.  Just start with an identical 1/4 to 1/2 turn on every spoke, 
alternately loosening or tightening as appropriate, and you'll probably 
find that you're almost there.

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 2:16:14 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> My soon-too-be-shipped CLEM frame is going to need wheels, and I have a 
> dilemma. I have a lovely handbuilt mid-'90s XT-hubbed rear wheel with 130 
> spacing, and a same era STX RC wheel with 135. Is it possible for me to 
> extract the 135 axle out of the STX and put it in the XT? Or is there some 
> simpler way to make my XT wheel fit my CLEM?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>

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Re: FW: [RBW] Someone order a Reader for me

[iamkeith]

I just read some of the comments on the Blug.  Sheesh!  I sure hope that my 
starting of this thread wasn't interpreted as the same kind of whining or 
sense of entitlement.   I completely understand the hassle involved in 
shipping such a small item, as well as the effort to encourage new orders. 
  I wasn't trying to circumvent that or to cheat the system.  I was just 
anxious and trying to figure out a way to get ahold of one without 
burdening the fine folks at RBW HQ, who need to spend their time on 
profitable endeavors - *precisely so that it is possible for us to enjoy 
things like the Reader from time to time*.   Seven bucks + shipping is 
still a bargain.   So thanks again, Grant and Dave and all, and know that I 
(as most of us) do appreciate the effort. 

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 4:45:46 AM UTC-7, islaysteve wrote:
>
> PSA:  in reading through all the comments in the "info" section of the 
> Blug about the RR, it is now available as a standalone order for $7 plus $3 
> shipping.  Initial policy caused a minor uproar and Grant fixed it.  Cheers,
> Steve
>

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[RBW] Someone order a Reader for me

[iamkeith]

Wouldn't you know it?  I placed a big order just a day before the 
announcement that the new Reader was available, but only if purchased with 
a legitimate order.  I don't need anything else at the moment.  If someone 
is placing an order soon, and plans to get the reader, would you mind 
getting two of them and forwarding one to me?  Will reimburse costs, of 
course.  And owe you a favor...

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[RBW] Someone order a Reader for me

[iamkeith]

Taken care of.  Thx!

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[RBW] Someone order a Reader for me

[iamkeith]

Taken care of.  Thx!

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[RBW] Re: Ten speed friction system

[iamkeith]

Looks like Garth found the cassette you want, no?  A couple of other 
thoughts:

-  If I understand Kevin's solution from the other thread, 10 speed and 11 
speed are essentially the same cog spacing, while the 11 speed cassette 
driver part of the hub is simply longer than the 8/9/10 driver, to hold the 
additional cog.  If so, the finesse required to friction shift 11 speed 
should be no different than for 10 speed.  The subtext however, is that 
going to 11 speed is going to require a new wheel.

-  Microshift makes thumbshifters for 10 speed road AND 10 speed mountain 
derailleurs, that have a friction option.  Somewhere in yet another recent 
thread, Bill confirmed that the road version will work on shimano bar end 
pods and/or downtube bosses.

-  I have a 10 speed shimano mtn group on my mountain bike, with the 
mtn-specific microshift thumbshifters.These have a different cable pull 
ratio (something like 1:1), while the 10 speed road group still uses the 
old standard shimano 1.67:1 ratio.  This is probably a different aesthetic 
than you're looking for (all black), but thought I'd mention how happy I am 
with it.  The indexing works so well, that I've never even been tempted to 
use the friction mode - which is a first for me.  I don't know if the road 
version is as good, but there's still the friction option - unlike with 
dura ace bar ends.

On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 8:39:39 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:

>
>   This may suit you ?
>
> Shimano XT CS-M771 10-speed cassette 
> 11-32: 11-12-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Rack Pannier rails?

[iamkeith]

There you go - thanks, Howard.  I couldn't get to it until this afternoon.

On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 10:53:47 AM UTC-7, Howard Hatten wrote:
>
> Zed,
> The mounting holes are 10.7 in. ctr. to ctr.
> The drop is 1.5 in. 
> The dia. is small, a hair under 5/16
> Hope this helps
> Howard

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[RBW] Re: Clem Rack Pannier rails?

[iamkeith]

I have some.  What measurements are you looking for?  Just center-to-center 
of the mounting holes?

On Thursday, January 7, 2016 at 8:17:27 PM UTC-7, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the measurements for the Clem Rack pannier rails? I've 
> been pondering adding some rails below the deck to my Surly Nice Rack like 
> those do on the Clem one, and was curious if it might be worth considering 
> getting them and some burly P-clamps for a modular solution rather than 
> stripping the rack and spot welding some stainless tubing onto it as new 
> rails. Any other suggestions? I know I could just get a Tubus Logo Evo, 
> but, thought I'd try doing something clever for once rather than just 
> swapping out. Plus, the Nice Rack has been good to me, it's just harder to 
> use rear panniers now that I always have a giant Sackville living on it ;)
>

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

[iamkeith]

My wife and I use "Moose Mits" on our snow bikes, both with highly-swept 
alt-bars (Mary and Carnegies, respectively) and like them very much.   I 
had a moment just now to put them on my daughter's bike with regular 
moustache bars, just to see how they'd work. Sorry - don't have any 
albastache bikes yet, so this is as close as I could get.   Some pics 
below, in case it is helpful. ( either to add or eliminate them from 
consideration)










They are doable, but not great.   The main "issues" being: 1) It is a bit 
slower getting your hand in and out of the pogie.  On straight, flat bars 
or the ones we use, it's almost as easy to grab the bar as if they weren't 
attached; and 2) You can't pull the pogie all the way onto the bar 
(rearward), so you can't close the flap that's supposed to keep spindrift 
out when you're not using the bike.  They still work well as a windshield 
for your hands though, and do not interfere with brake lever operation.   
All that said, I suspect they'd work  a bit better on albastache bars, 
because they're straighter adjacent to the stem.

They have a drop-bar version too, but I haven't seen them and don't know 
how they'd work: 

 http://moosemitts.com/moose-mitts.html

For what it's worth



On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

[iamkeith]

On Saturday, January 2, 2016 at 4:24:21 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> I ride a 60 Bombadil and I am about 6 2or3 and find it to be "just" large 
> enough frontwise so there was no way the 59 Clem would be "big" in any 
> sense of he word ! 
>

*Sigh...*

I don't know, Garth.  Perhaps the 59 Clem I have sitting in my living room 
was a fluke, and was accidentally built bigger than the other 59s.  Or 
perhaps the one you're riding was built smaller.   That would certainly 
explain why your posts always seem argumentative.

I get the whole zentastic, *"if you search deep within yourself 
grasshopper, you will discover that you already have all that you need 
- your bike can be anything you want it to be"*  thing.  But I also think 
it's ok if someone wants to own multiple bikes set up for different 
purposes, and wants them to fit appropriately for *those* uses, in the way 
that the designer intended.  Nobody on this Rivendell-centric forum is a 
rampant consumer who is swayed by the latest bike trends.  We like threaded 
headsets and square-taper cranks, for crying out loud.  But it's still a *bike 
forum* and, for some of us, the passion still lies in the exploration of 
different geometries and setups, and in discovering the effects and nuances 
of subtle changes, and in having a small "quiver" of bikes to compare - 
even (or especially) if its all part of the journey toward figuring out 
what our ideal "only" bike might some day be.

The Clem was intended and described as "a townish bike with mountainish 
capabilities,"  to be used with a lot of saddle setback and a very upright 
riding position.   So it would necessarily require a substantial amount of 
standover clearance, to work as intended.   If someone was bent on using it 
as something else - like a road bike with a stretched-out, aero riding 
position - then *of course* they could make a larger frame work.  If you're 
personally  riding a 60 bombadil at 6'-2 1/2", then I suspect that this is 
what you're doing.   That's perfectly ok because, in your own words, "it's 
your damned bike."  I'm pretty sure Rivendell would have put you on a 56 
though, if they made typical assumptions about how you'd use it.

The point of my original post was to let semi-tallish people - who might 
now be or who might have been reluctant to buy a Clem, or who are holding 
out in hopes of a 64 - know that they should at least take a look at the 
59, because it might actually work really well.   It will work at least as 
well as, if not better than, it does for me at 6'-1 1/2", with *negative* 
standover clearance.   That was all.  But you have a valid point that, 
depending on how you want to set up and use the bike, your mileage may vary.

Keith, who is jacked up on pain meds from New Year's Eve foot surgery, and 
who will probably regret writing this.



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[RBW] Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

[iamkeith]

Interesting rumor.  Speaks to how popular the bike was , I guess.  This 
probably doesn't help jim but in case others dont realize it , the 59 fits MUCH 
bigger than it would appear to suggest.  Someone 6'-3" to 6'-4" is probably 
ideal, and 6'-6" or so might bewithin the realm of "decent fit."  At 6'-2" , it 
is clearly too big.   Personally , I hope they add one around 56 or 57 or so.

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Re: [RBW] Rear fender mounting. Was: Christmas Clementine

[iamkeith]

So. as long as this particular discussion is active, I'm hoping I can 
get a bit of related advice/suggestions.  I just yesterday got some SKS 
plastic fenders from Tim, to install on my 59 Clem, and am running into 
something I haven't seen before.

First of all though,  I can confirm that the kickstand plate is indeed 
further from the center of the wheel than the seatstay brace.  However BOTH 
mounting points are far enough away that they will need form of spacer - 
even with the enormous 2.4" tires I plan to use.My go-to solution is to 
stack aluminum inner chainring spacers as needed, and I will do that again. 
 They look nice.   Since the hole diameter is larger than the screw, a 
piece of rubber hose inside the stack keeps them snug and nicely aligned.   
I mention this just as an idea for the OP though.  My actual question is 
this:

The holes on the seatstay brace are oriented radially rather than 
tangentially, relative to the wheel axle, which I've never seen before. 
 [Picture below.]   What's the normal way to attach the fender in this 
configuration?  I'm sure I can hack something together, but thought I'd see 
if anybody has already figured out some elegant solution.   On "normal" 
bikes, it would probably work to simply drill through the  fender and bolt 
directly to the stay.  Especially where there's this much clearance.   But 
on the Clem, the unique curve of the stays means that the  hole is not 
actually pointing at the center of the axle, so it  looks like it would 
either require a wedge shaped spacer,  would end  up putting stress on the 
fender or bolt or both.  Thanks for any ideas.


 

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