Re: Status of Rio Pecos?

[Phil Paskos]

Hi Bob;
I don't think so. Bob has had a lot of trouble with e-mail and the SitG
site has been fouled up for months. Unless something happened there in the
last couple of weeks, he should still be around. I got some brake parts for
my OS Riding car from him a few weeks ago.
By the way, I would not recommend buying the OS Riding car. It's fine
if you don't plan on adding the brake kit, but if you plan on adding
brakes, do not buy that car. The brake linkage hangs way too low to get
away with running at PLS. If you derail into a frog, you will break parts.
I've done it 3 times now. I am now running it without the brakes, which
means I can't run the Koppel until I see If I can redesign the trucks to
use 1" railroad supply brakes which are much more robust, simpler, and
mount high enough to avoid the problems I have with them.

Phil P



> In the Swap Shop at the SitG web site, I noticed that Bob Osterhoudt
posted
> an item as "The last of my gauge one locomotives."  When I tried the SitG
> link to Rio Pecos, the page was not found.  Did I miss an announcement
> somewhere that Bob is going out of business?  I bought two Pearse locos
from
> him and was always pleased with both his service and his helpfulness.
> Bob Blackson
>
>
>
 

Re: ECLSTS

[Phil Paskos]

 Tomorrow, Saturday, and Sunday

Phil P

> thanks for the directions, but what are the dates of the show??
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 7:09 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: ECLSTS
>
>
> It's off Route 30 on the south side of York,PA. Rt.74 exit (Carlisle Ave)
> Look for the signs leading to the York Fairgrounds.
>
> Phil P
>
>
>  > when is the garden RR show at York, where Mike will have his portable
> track
> > at.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> > Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:30 AM
> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> > Subject: Re: ECLSTS
> >
> >
> > This is primarily an electric Garden railway show at York, PA
> fairgrounds.
> > This is a large 3 day event and for the first time Gauge-1 Live steam
> will
> > be present courtesy of Mike Moore who will be bringing his multiloop
dual
> > gauge live steam portable track to the show. Members of the
Pennsylvania
> > Live steamers and others are welcome to attend and promote live steam
> > there.
> >
> >   Phil P
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
 

Re: ECLSTS

[Phil Paskos]

It's off Route 30 on the south side of York,PA. Rt.74 exit (Carlisle Ave)
Look for the signs leading to the York Fairgrounds.

Phil P


 > when is the garden RR show at York, where Mike will have his portable
track
> at.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:30 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: ECLSTS
>
>
> This is primarily an electric Garden railway show at York, PA
fairgrounds.
> This is a large 3 day event and for the first time Gauge-1 Live steam
will
> be present courtesy of Mike Moore who will be bringing his multiloop dual
> gauge live steam portable track to the show. Members of the Pennsylvania
> Live steamers and others are welcome to attend and promote live steam
> there.
>
>   Phil P
>
>
>
 

Re: ECLSTS

[Phil Paskos]

This is primarily an electric Garden railway show at York, PA fairgrounds.
This is a large 3 day event and for the first time Gauge-1 Live steam will
be present courtesy of Mike Moore who will be bringing his multiloop dual
gauge live steam portable track to the show. Members of the Pennsylvania
Live steamers and others are welcome to attend and promote live steam
there.

  Phil P
 

Re: Materials compatibility

[Phil Paskos]

All the large scale guys at PLS that have cast irons valves and/or
cylinders use engine oil to lubricate the cylinders after they are done
running. Condensation and the inability to get every last bit of water out
of them after a run assures no rust the next time. One person forgot this
last year and paid the price of having to tear down the cylinders and
valves to clean them up. I'll bet he doesn't forget this year.

Phil P


> Hi Royce.
>  I use cast iron valves all the time ( except the times I dont ) no
> joking apart the valves do not rust if you use steam oil  that stuff gets
> everywhere so there is no need to worry ;; you wont be disapointed .
>  I wonder if the gauling is not caused by something totally different
> ( ie ) dirt from your boiler ( is ) silver solder flux ;; had that happen
to
> me once .
>
>  Graham .S( " NO ECHO ".
>
> > Hi Graham.  Thanks for responding.  It is my impression that cast iron
> > is not used much in gauge one locos due to rust problems or other
> > considerations.  Not sure what they are.  Maybe someone can comment on
> > the use of cast iron in gauge one - or rather why we don't see it used
> much.
> >
> > royce in SB
> >
> > graham sprague wrote:
> >
 

Re: Materials compatibility

[Phil Paskos]

Hmm.
 If the materials are finished well, no sharp edges etc and you're using
steam oil that is getting to the ports, I'm surprised that is happening.

Phil P

>
> Hi Gang.  Still struggling with my Philly.  But I ran across a problem I
> thought some input from the experts might be advisable.
> The slide valve port face is made of common brass.  I made the slide
> valve itself from an ingot of an unknown alloy of bronze, thinking the
> dissimilarity of materials would make a good combination.  The face of
> the ports is galling .  So the material combination is not satisfactory.
>  Since the easier part to make are the valves,does anyone have a
> suggestion as to material ?  I'm considering teflon, stainless steel
> (416), leadalloy, brass, phosphor bronze (of known composition).
> Thanks for your input.
>
> royce in SB
>
>
>
 

Re: Larry's Steamup

[Phil Paskos]

First; Thanks for sharing. His garden railroad is just that. Very nice. If
you would not have told me yours was a Ruby conversion I would not have
known. It looks great. Rubies like to be run. Some more running time should
make a world of difference.

Phil P

> Here are pictures I took at Larry Banghams' this weekend.  Thanks Larry
and
> Dorthy, Jackie and I had a great time.
> http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/LARRY%20BANGHAM%20STEAMUP.html
>
>
> Bob Starr
> Our lives begin to end the day we become silent
> about things that matter"
> Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr
>  http://www.standforpeace.com
> http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/";>ART IN GARDEN
RAILROADING-THE
> CGNR
> http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/
>
 

Re: Roadshow

[Phil Paskos]

About 4 years ago, the Quirk Brothers took their portable track to a
mid-winter show near my home called Cabin Fever Expo. I went there looking
for some good buys on tools. Until then I had no idea that live steam locos
existed in Gauge-1.
It's been a lot of fun ever since that fateful winter day.

Still Hooked;  Phil P

> Mike, this is a cool idea!  It sounds like you're seeing the same thing I
> have.  There are a lot of people who aren't interested in live steam
> simply because they don't know it exists, and there are some of those
> people who get interested enough that they might get into the hobby
> themselves, given the chance.  Good for you, to givie them the
> chance.
>
> -vance-
>
> "Peace is not merely a distant goal that we seek, but a means by
> which we arrive at that goal." -- Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
> http://standforpeace.com
>
>
 

sslivesteam@colegroup.com

[Phil Paskos]

Your gonna love this one. We have a situation at PLS where we have a
permanent "Girder type" bridge that lifts out. On run day weekends we set
out buildings,stations, water towers and a nice wooden trestle bridge.

In other words, do both.

Phil P

(snip...snip)

> The thing with the waterway and the adjacent "hills" is to give the
> illusion of traveling through varied terrain, while letting the manually
> controlled live steamers move with minimum hands-on in difficult
> areas.  I'm waffling between a wooden deck truss and a plate girder
> bridge across the arroyo.  Any suggestions?  I think the wooden
> bridge would look cooler, but the metal girders would hold up better to
> being lifted in and out.
>
> -vance-
>
> "Peace is not merely a distant goal that we seek, but a means by
> which we arrive at that goal." -- Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
> http://standforpeace.com
>
>
 

Re: Survey is posted/scale speeds

[Phil Paskos]

Shays at a prototypical 60 mph?  Hmmm! When Jeff brought his speed charts
to PLS a few years ago I always thought I ran my RH#24 close to scale speed
(about 20 mph). I was shocked when I timed it and found I was running at
close to 45 MPH. Paul Quirk holds the current record at 155mph by the way.

Phil P



(Much snipped)

>
> Speaking of cow catchers, this Ruby has one--solid brass!. I'll let my
Shay
> owner friends borrow it on occasion as most of them speed around at  a
> prototypical 60mph.  Well,  you've been to  steamups!
>
> Geoff.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
 

Re: Survey is posted/SS live steam layouts

[Phil Paskos]

Sound like a great setup to me.

Phil P

> Well, we're actually remodeling ours to make it all ground-level.  (!?)
> The reason is that it had a slight slope, which was too much to ignore,
> but not enough to have "major" features like long trestles or other
> workarounds.  We had three terraced levels, and we've built a
> retaining wall at the bottom of the middle level and are filling in the
> former upper and middle terraces.  For interest, there is a "stream" to
> conduct runoff water away from the house and towards the trees at
> the bottom of the yard, as well as a berm to accentuate the depth of
> the stream bed.
>
> But, while it's basically a ground-level line, intended as a scenic
> railway with plants and buildings and such, the retaining wall
> separating the upper and lower areas is 30" above the bottom level.
> With a track running right along that wall, you'll only have to bend over
> slightly to get at your loco on a steamup siding, while the other trains
> roll by on the mainline.
>
> The "best" live steam railroad is just a roadbed on posts.  That
> definition of "best" considers only the operational end, though, and we
> want a nice rock garden and miniature landscape to look at while
> we're not running the trains.  So, we're willing to compromise a little
on
> the operations in order to ease the aesthetic impact.  On the other
> hand, the "best" live steam railroad is the one that looks the most like
> a real railroad for your real locomotives to run on.  De gustibus non
> disputandum.
>
> I have baby pictures, if anyone's interested.  :-)
>
> regards,
>   -vance-
>
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
>
>
 

Re: Survey is posted/live steam layout

[Phil Paskos]

There is no one answer to this one. Your terrain, the kind of soil, where
in the country you live, as well as space and finances all make a big
difference in how you build it. Ground level for anyone not in very good
physical condition or older than ?? is not a good thing, but the materials
we use in the S.E. PA area don't work well in Florida or the desert area of
Nevada.

I know this doesn't answer your question, but there is no one answer that
works for every body everywhere.

Phil P

> Vance,
> You said in your post "We are remodeling our back yard so it will be more
> hospitable to a
> railroad..."
> It got me to thinking-What are some major points to having a successful
live
> steam yard layout?
> I have a ground level line, and of course some of the weak points of bend
> and stoop have been mentioned.
> Hey, how about a survey
> Actually, does anyone have a "List" of what works and would like to share
> it?
> Vic in CA

 

Re: Survey is posted/ visitors to track

[Phil Paskos]

We had a special safety meeting at the Pennsylvania Live Steam track today.
It was a very  nice spring day. The old Reading Railroad right of way that
fronts PLS has been converted to a county hiking/biking trail. We had a lot
of visitors that never knew we were there. We handed out 4 applications for
associate memberships. I'm not sure what is going to happen in a few weeks
when we have our first official run day. I ran my RH#24 for the first time
in a while. Great day. Track wintered well.

Phil P

> > "preaching to the choir" and not out on the street
> > corner recruiting converts like the "Sally Ann" did years
> > ago.
>
> OK, Walt has issued the challenge -- what are we going to do in
> response?
>
> How about a pledge for each of us to have (or attend) an open house
> and teach at least one willing volunteer to run a live steamer?  That's
> what got me hooked (thanks, Ken Matticks!) and you will all remember
> the thrill of your first run, I expect.
>
> We are remodeling our back yard so it will be more hospitable to a
> railroad, so all my track will be relaid and the railroad finally
completed
> this spring or early summer.  I intend to have a steam-and-batteries-
> only open house, and will teach anyone interested to fire a Ruby or C-
> 16.
>
> If we all did it and got one person interested in live steam, think of
> what an impact that would make on our overall numbers!
>
> regards,
>   -vance-
>
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
>
 

Re: Different strokes - Aster survey, fuel choices, etc. etc.

[Phil Paskos]

Anthony is calling it the way I see it. They will build what they are sure
will sell.

Phil P

> >
> >You can send in all the surveys you like, folks,  It's how you vote with
> >your dollars/pounds/euros/yen that will determine future offerings.
> >Aster still has Colorado and Southern butane-fired Moguls for sale 12
> >years after their introduction. Accucraft still has electric 1:24
> >"GLENBROOK" Moguls for sale in spite of a production run of only 20.
> >Aster and Accucraft will not ignore these lessons.
>
 

Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas

[Phil Paskos]

On the 1 and 1-1/2" kerosene burning locos I've seen, they "start" them by
forcing compressed air through the burners to atomize the fuel. This allows
simply lighting them with a long match or a metal rod with some wick
material soaked in kerosene to get the fire burning. This also forces the
draft (drought?) through the engine. Once boiler pressure of about 40
pounds is reached, the air can be discontinued and they fire on their own.
Should fire be lost while running an old ford coil feeding a spark plug
will reignite them.

I'll leave it to the imagination of this group to figure out how to do
this on Gauge-1 Locos. I think it could be done.

Phil P



> Hi Clark,
>
> Does the burner in the 1.5" scale shay require preheating before turning
> on the kerosene (or #2 diesel) supply?  The reason I ask is that my old
> Primus stoves required that the burner be preheated in order to vaporize
> the kerosene. After the burner was alight with vaporized kerosene then
> it would maintain a sufficiently high temperature to keep the
> vaporization going.
>
> If one let the kerosene flow to the burner before it was hot enough then
> the kerosene remained liquid and produced only a small, yellow, and
> smokey flame that was useless. Vaporized kerosene produced a blue, hot
> flame.
>
> Steve Shyvers
>
>
 

Re: alcohol vs gas- again

[Phil Paskos]

There's no question that alcohol is more readily available than the gas
(butane or butane/propane mix that most gas users use), but alcohol can be
a pain. You have to start up with an extra fan. Getting the right wick
material, height etc. can be an even bigger pain. And frankly from my
observations, Aster owners don't care for gas because Aster's offerings
that have gas burners in them don't work near as well as other
manufacturers offerings. The K-4 is a classic example. If I want a hassle
free day of running, I'll run my RH gas burner every time.

My opinion only of course.
Phil P

> Is butane or alcohol more readily available world wide?
> Gary - Running trains over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon
> http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
> http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Vance Bass
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 2:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Accucraft live steam Daylight GS-4: It's for real!
>
>
> It certainly makes sense that it would be Aster.  Their past products
> have been more aligned with the UK/European tastes than American.
> And, given that so many of their previous locos have been alcohol
> fired, it also makes sense that the people responding to an Aster
> survey (i.e., current Aster owners, I suspect) would prefer what Aster
> has already made.  It would be really interesting to see the same
> survey conducted by Roundhouse or Accucraft.
>
> regards,
>   -vance-
>
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
>
>
 

Re: glitching

[Phil Paskos]

Good news on the track being straight and true as well as the layout being
flat. Frankly I had my doubts. I was sure frost heaving would get you with
all sorts of unevenness. I think you have had worse winters than we had in
02. I'm not sure about this one as this is the worse one we've had since
96. It looks like things are starting to change now though.
One more question though.
Is your soil fairly firm or do you get  some muddy areas in your yard? I
doubt that it's sandy, But I could be wrong.

Phil

> Hi Phil,
>
> This is the second winter.  The original wood structure was built in the
> summer of 01'.  As a matter of fact, I was just out there surveying the
> layout.  Other than some Aristo switch machines not working (I am
converting
> everthing to Sunset Valley throws this Spring), the layout is dead flat
and
> the track is straight and true.  So far, the floating pier system has
proven
> to work in our area.  At one point this winter, even the high side of the
> track (which is five feet off the ground) was buried under Old Man
Winter.
> I have included a picture of the layout covered in a bit less snow in my
> next article in SitG.
>
> Chuck
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 8:25 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: glitching
>
>
> Hi Chuck;
>
> I'm curious to find out how your railroad made it through the winter.
This
> assumes, of course, that you can see it this early in the season.
>
> Here in SE PA it looks like it's starting to give up.
> Phil.P.
>
> > The newer #24's have a Hitec 3 channel FM radio with built in circuitry
> that
> > does not allow you to turn off the transmitter.  If you do, the servos
go
> > back to neutral automatically.  Engine stops!  BTW, I hate it!
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> > Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 8:37 AM
> > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> > Subject: Re: glitching
> >
> >
> > O.K. With the servo smoother installed, you can run with the
transmitter
> > turned off.  I was thinking in terms of standard R-C units. The rule
the
> > airplane guys always used was transmitter on first and off last to
> prevent
> > servo lockup.
> > The main reason I went with RCS was for the small transmitter and so I
> > could add a Soundtraxx Sierra sound unit to my SRRL #24. Like Earle, my
> #24
> > came with one of the earlier radios. I understand the newer units have
a
> > better radio with them.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > > My point was that with the Servo Smoother installed my #24 will
remain
> at
> > > whatever direction/throttle settings I set it at and work just fine
> > > (glitch-free) even with the Transmitter turned off.
> > > For those of us with "glitching" R/C setups this device is a much
> cheaper
> > > way to get our units working properly without replacing with an RCS
> > system.
> > > From whats been said here even some people with RCS systems have
> > experienced
> > > the dreaded "Glitch"Earle
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
 

Re: glitching

[Phil Paskos]

Hi Chuck;

I'm curious to find out how your railroad made it through the winter. This
assumes, of course, that you can see it this early in the season.

Here in SE PA it looks like it's starting to give up.
Phil.P.

> The newer #24's have a Hitec 3 channel FM radio with built in circuitry
that
> does not allow you to turn off the transmitter.  If you do, the servos go
> back to neutral automatically.  Engine stops!  BTW, I hate it!
>
> Chuck
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Phil Paskos
> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 8:37 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> Subject: Re: glitching
>
>
> O.K. With the servo smoother installed, you can run with the transmitter
> turned off.  I was thinking in terms of standard R-C units. The rule the
> airplane guys always used was transmitter on first and off last to
prevent
> servo lockup.
> The main reason I went with RCS was for the small transmitter and so I
> could add a Soundtraxx Sierra sound unit to my SRRL #24. Like Earle, my
#24
> came with one of the earlier radios. I understand the newer units have a
> better radio with them.
>
> Phil
>
> > My point was that with the Servo Smoother installed my #24 will remain
at
> > whatever direction/throttle settings I set it at and work just fine
> > (glitch-free) even with the Transmitter turned off.
> > For those of us with "glitching" R/C setups this device is a much
cheaper
> > way to get our units working properly without replacing with an RCS
> system.
> > From whats been said here even some people with RCS systems have
> experienced
> > the dreaded "Glitch"Earle
>
>
>
>
 

Re: glitching

[Phil Paskos]

O.K. With the servo smoother installed, you can run with the transmitter
turned off.  I was thinking in terms of standard R-C units. The rule the
airplane guys always used was transmitter on first and off last to prevent
servo lockup.
The main reason I went with RCS was for the small transmitter and so I
could add a Soundtraxx Sierra sound unit to my SRRL #24. Like Earle, my #24
came with one of the earlier radios. I understand the newer units have a
better radio with them.

Phil

> My point was that with the Servo Smoother installed my #24 will remain at
> whatever direction/throttle settings I set it at and work just fine
> (glitch-free) even with the Transmitter turned off.
> For those of us with "glitching" R/C setups this device is a much cheaper
> way to get our units working properly without replacing with an RCS
system.
> From whats been said here even some people with RCS systems have
experienced
> the dreaded "Glitch"Earle

 

Re: glitching

[Phil Paskos]

My experiences with R-C says not to turn the transmitter off.. I'm not
talking about RCS here, which is designed to work that way. Turning the
receiver on by itself will let me see lots of glitching. Turn the
transmitter on and the signal firms up the servos with no glitching. It's
the loss of signal that causes the glitching. I've never had glitching with
my RCS. The only time I ever had range or loss of control is when I tried
using a very week battery in the transmitter. The RCS will still give you
that buzzing sound with the week battery. Just check the battery voltage if
you are having problems with RCS. I do hook the receiver antenna to a wiper
on the tender of my Roundhouse SRRL#24 to let the track help as a receiving
antenna. I still have control when I'm over 100 feet away at PLS. This is
when my train is at ground level and in the shadow of our tunnel.

My observations only.
Phil. P.

> I had a pretty nasty glitching problem with my Sandy River#24. This was
an
> older unit with R/C from the factory however is FM (75mhz).
> Last week I installed the Servo Smoother that Sulphur Springs sells for
> Futaba-type 2 channel receivers.
> It wasn't terribly cheap (80 some $) however the glitching is completely
> cured.  It goes between the Receiver and Servos and is very small. The
> effect it has is to electronically "dampen" the servo function. An
> interesting side effect is now I have to control the throttle much like a
> full size locomotive since it does not instantly respond to commands.
> I can however shut off the Transmitter when she's running well and save
the
> batteries.Earle
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dave Hottmann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 11:37 AM
> Subject: Re: glitching
>
>
> > My biggest problem has been around power lines also. Wind going thru
> bushes
> > is also a problem. I have been able to reduce glitching by shielding
the
> > reciever with aluminum foil and using three batteries instead of four
to
> > power the reciever (AAA Duracells). The lower voltage slows the "over
> > reacting". I am running FM, wallet says NO to PCM.
> > Dave
>
>
>
 

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Phil Paskos]

You can get some very good pictures with a 3 megapixel camera. I don't know
how fussy you are. I still don't think a digital camera in the hobby price
range will compete with a 35mm Nikon with fine grain photo film especially
in the 8X10 or 16X12 sizes you are referring to. Like everything else, the
camera is only part of the story. The right printer and paper can make a
big difference. It takes some time to find a setup that will please you. I
use Corel Paint to control the size, quality, color balance, contrast etc.
If you use one of the newer printers that have 1200 or better DPI
capabilities, the results to me are plenty good enough. If I plan on
posting them on the net, they must be reduced in size and DPI. A three
megapixel picture not only will take forever to send and download, it takes
up a lot of disk space. Even with a fast computer, these pictures can take
a long time to process at home and print. For home use and posting to the
internet, 3 megapixels is fine. If you plan on sending them to National
Geographic I don't think so.

Hans Huyler( sp?) posts pictures on the Thursday night LS chat group from
time to time. Hans is a master at getting pictures that are razor sharp and
have a perspective that makes you not really sure if you looking at Gauge 1
or a full scale loco. That makes them superb in my eyes.

Phil

I'm partial to Epson printers by the way. I'm using a not very expensive
785EPX. I would get one with the new non water soluble inks by the way.
My opinions only

Phil

> Hi Trent, Dave et al,
> As with high quality 35mm film cameras, Nikon etc. the end results
are
> totally dependant on the quality of the lens in the enlarger being
> comparable to the original photographic lens.
> Therefore, I would be interested in knowing which colour printers and
> paper do you guys use for supporting the quality of these high definition
> photographs at 3-6 megapixels. i.e look brilliant on the screen, but not
> much use if final print quality is not comparable.
> I am talking in terms of  10 x 8 to 16 x 12 print sizes, not
postcards.
> Please advise,
> Thanks guys,
> Tony D.
>
> At 10:57 PM 3/4/03 -0600, Trent Dowler wrote:
> >Hello Dave,
> >
> >  Thanks for the additional information. It gives me a lot more
> > confidence in
> >the 3 Megapixel market.
> >  I'm currently considering the Sony Mavica CD-400, but haven't
convinced
> >myself to make the purchase. I'll definitely take a closer look at the
> >Fuji S602
> >now that I've seen actual photos from it.
> >  Thanks again for the information.
> >
> >Later,
> >Trent
> >
> >
> >Dave Cole wrote:
> >
> > > *it's a fuji s602.
> > >
> > > *it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three
> > inches).
> > >
> > > *it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.
> > >
> > > *it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures
> > > three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).
> > >
> > > *santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels
> > > would be $1500-$2k).
> >
>
>
 

Re: C11

[Phil Paskos]

Arghh!  You're rubbing my SE PA location in my face you know. I need a live
steam fix bad. The Gauge1 track at PLS is still under about a foot of snow
as is the large scale stuff too. We had a dusting yesterday too. BUT,
Spring is just around the corner. I've added some Reading coal hoppers to
my Camelback and I'm anxious to get running again.

That's a good load for a 3/4" engine. The welsh coal is really about the
best stuff for our use. But not even all of that is created equal. Mike
Moore wasn't happy with the Welsh he got from Jersey to run in his Gauge1
Aster K-4.

Phil

> Yo Phil,
>
> Thanks for that suggestion!!  Right!
>
>  The OS's are running just superbly,  the Britannia pulled two adults and
3
> kids the other day with out a burp and no wheel slippage!! Very little
> smoke with that Welsh coal.
>
> vbg  Geoff
>
>
> Yo Geoff;
> >
> >My advice is very simple. Save the screwdriver for your O.S. equipment.
All
> >you need is the hammer.
> >
> >(vbg) Phil
> >
> >> Does anyone out there have, or  has owned, an Aster C11. If so what
> >> comments do you have on the performance of this loco and any suggested
> >> "tweaks" to improve performance.
> >>
> >> Of course, as you all know, I know everything, but this is for a
friend
> >who
> >> doesn't understand this despite my lengthy ramblings.
> >>
> >> I wait with bated steam, a hammer and a screwdriver!
> >>
> >> Geoff.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
 

Re: C11

[Phil Paskos]

Yo Geoff;

My advice is very simple. Save the screwdriver for your O.S. equipment. All
you need is the hammer.

(vbg) Phil

> Does anyone out there have, or  has owned, an Aster C11. If so what
> comments do you have on the performance of this loco and any suggested
> "tweaks" to improve performance.
>
> Of course, as you all know, I know everything, but this is for a friend
who
> doesn't understand this despite my lengthy ramblings.
>
> I wait with bated steam, a hammer and a screwdriver!
>
> Geoff.
>
>
>
 

Re: OT: b&o museum latest pictures

[Phil Paskos]

NO! We can get a storm like this at least once every few years. The last
few winters have been very mild here in S.E. PA. We are about 90 miles
north of Baltimore,MD. The last big storm of note was in 1996. Definitely
less than 100 years. Last year at this time, the hardy ones around here
were steaming at our club track.

Phil
> >
> > It would seem a crime that the roundhouse wasn't designed to withstand
> > anticipatable snow loads without risking irreplaceable artifacts
> > (trains).  But maybe these snow loads were outside the 100 year limits.
> >  Were they ?
> >
> > royce in SB
> >

 

Re: Wire Drawing?

[Phil Paskos]

I'm sure that this context refers to cad or other drawing programs that use
this feature to aid in making quick changes to drawings where their are a
lot of hi-resolution images that can take a long time to re-draw. Do them
in the quick"wire draw' method and when you are done go to the full
resolution drawing to get the final look.
The English language strikes again. Too many words and terms with more than
one meaning.
Phil

> Mike E  wrote:-
>
> > If I remember correctly, this is not what is meant in this context, but
I
> > can't remember what is really meant by the term "wire drawing" in
relation
> > to ssls valving.
>
> It means that you're trying to push steam through a pipe that is too
small for
> it, so that friction limits the rate at which steam can pass.  I use it
on the
> Catatonk 24T Shay, which has a manifold connecting steam and exhaust to
the
> cylinders and, on the soon to be shipped MkII version, it limits the
speed on
> full throttle, light engine, to about 20mph (1mph actual.)
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
 

Re: Aster Alisan wick problem

[Phil Paskos]

I'm not the alkie expert some are. My one and only alkie burner is a
WADA -A5A Reading Camelback. I tried some soft fire brick to make "wicks"
out of with questionable results.  I went back to Wada's wicks which were
made from a soft ceramic sheet layered with fine mesh stainless steel. I
trimmed my firebrick "wicks" too low. The Wada wicks sat 3/8" over the
tubes. The Wada had other problems though that kept my draft too low. The
exhaust nozzle must be centered in the middle of the stack. My blower
nozzle sat on top of the exhaust nozzle that messed me up too. I shortened
the blower nozzle and placed it along side and below the exhaust nozzle.
Now my A5A steams and runs well. It took me a long time to get all this
straightened out.
I'm not sure where you run, but at our club track, we have a steaming
bay area that has about 6 inches of ties cut out and a mirror set on a 45
degree angle under the track that lets you view the fire over the wicks
easily. They should show a high blue flame if everything is right on. Don't
put more than a drop or 2 of vegetable dye in your can of alcohol.
Otherwise you seem to doing things correctly. Listen to what some of the
other list members say that have more experience.


Phil

> Hi Phil,
> Your Diagnosis seems right on.
>
> Do you have any advice about how to pack wicks and how to trim wicks?
>
> I noticed Aster catalogue shows both domed and flat top wicks.
> The wicks came packed about 80 strands to a tube and the fire would go
out.
> I removed all but 36 wicks and the flame remains lit just fine.
> I am not sure I am getting the hottest flame possible. I am having
trouble
> keeping
> steam pressure optimal. I have noticed films of Aster's steaming where
the
> pop off valves are popping while running at top speed. If I get 3 bar
> pressure and
> run the loco pressure drops to 1 bar after a run of 180 feet without the
> blower running.
> I have eliminated leaks at the injector inlet and the pressure guage.
Flame
> is yellow for
> two of the three wicks. The rear wick burns blue.
> Fuel is denatured Ethanol 200%. I just bought 5 gallons at $7 per gallon
> from the local
> solvent company. Five gallons is the minimum purchase. I transfer to a
quart
> bottle with a
> common kerosene type plastic pump. I keep the storage bottle tightly
capped.
>
> Just fishing for hints on how to optimize alcohol loco operation.
>
> Gary - Running trains over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon
> http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
> http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm assuming that you are talking about adjusting the fuel level by
> adjusting the height of the pickup tube inside the tank. If that tube is
> too high it won't pick up the fuel, if it's too low the alcohol will over
> flow the top of the wick holding tubes under the engine. This latter
> condition will be evidenced by starting fires on the ties under the
engine,
> particularly when the engine is at rest.
>
> Phil
>
 

Re: Rodent damage to plastic ties and switches

[Phil Paskos]

I recommend a precision air gun with 40 power scope. You can nail them at
50 yards with great accuracy. O.K. animal lovers, let me have it.

Phil

> Have posted to SitG too. The plastic on top of switches removed by
> little tooth marks to degree that the brass throw device is totally
> exposed. Some track tie ends are gnawed down to the cavity. Assume might
> be the plastic content as some of the throws are not damaged.
> Any suggestion re spray or paint-solution that might repel will be
> appreciated. I remember another steamer had this problem a couple years
> ago. Thanks.  Jim Burns
>
>
 

Re: Aster Alisan wick problem

[Phil Paskos]

I'm assuming that you are talking about adjusting the fuel level by
adjusting the height of the pickup tube inside the tank. If that tube is
too high it won't pick up the fuel, if it's too low the alcohol will over
flow the top of the wick holding tubes under the engine. This latter
condition will be evidenced by starting fires on the ties under the engine,
particularly when the engine is at rest.

Phil


> I just got my new Alisan shay.
> Fuel was running out of the overflow hole. I made sure the fuel cap was
on
> correctly and it still leaked.  I added about 1/4" of rubber tubing to
the
> tube that regulates fuel level, which stopped the leak.
>
> The wicks would not hold a flame. The wicks arrived 15mm long so I
trimmed
> them to 5mm. The specs call for 5mm in one place and 3mm in another
section
> of the instructions. Flame was better and I raised .5-1 Bar pressure
three
> times and opened the blower a bit, removed the fan and the flame went out
> within a minute. No fuel was the problem. This is on level ground.  Wicks
> are packed fairly densly (I can rotate the wick bundle, but it does not
pull
> out easily and the wick head cannot be mashed down).
>
> Wondering whether my 1/4" extra tubing on the overflow vent pipe for fuel
is
> somehow restricting fuel when pressure is raised?  The fuel clear line
shows
> no fuel when the fire goes out. The tank has fuel. I tip the loco and
fuel
> runs into the line and the air bubble burps out so fuel flows enough to
> raise pressure again.
>
> Any help would be appreciated. I have only fixed and fired a friend's
Reno
> (which had some significant fuel leaks for awhile also) and otherwise run
a
> butane fired Steamlines shay.
>
> Gary - Running trains over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon

 

Re: Re: Drawbar Pulling Competition Results

[Phil Paskos]

Good grief. That's incredible. I really do wish I was there to see that!
Phil

Phil,

My entry was correct - 46%.  It totally threw me too. The
only adhesion improver allowed was chalking the rails.  I
had devised a track that could be elevated to 22.5% grade
and we had to stack boxes etc under one end and calculate
the grade manually.  The high end was barely reachable from
standing on a chair in a 12 foot length of track.  We
immediately moved every thing off the tables to the floor.


Eldorado Timber & Mining Co.
Bruce G. Gathman, President

Tall Trees  -  Deep Shafts


On Thu, 30 Jan 2003 07:56:54 -0500, "Phil Paskos"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Ahhh. Question? You did mean 4.6% grade didn't you? 46% is one of things
I'd
>like to see.
>
>Phil
>

 

Re: Drawbar Pulling Competition Results

[Phil Paskos]

Ahhh. Question? You did mean 4.6% grade didn't you? 46% is one of things I'd
like to see.

Phil

Everyone,

There really are no rules.  Like I said it amazes me that no
one has tried anything trick yet to my knowledge.  At St.
Louis we have a hill climb event just asking for someone to
make modifications.  Of course the record climb was 46%
grade by John Garrett's DJB Climax.  Now I know John likes
to tinker but things looked rather stock.  It did't get a
technical inspection after winning like NASCAR.


Eldorado Timber & Mining Co.
Bruce G. Gathman, President

Tall Trees  -  Deep Shafts



 

Re: Diamondhead Drawbar Pulling Competition Results

[Phil Paskos]

Are sanders allowed?  How about Jetex assist?  (do they still make those?)
Sneak a motor drive in the tender?
I knew there was a reason I wanted to go there.
(VBG)  Phil

Diamondhead 2003 Drawbar Pull Results

There were twenty-one locomotives entered in the
drawbar-pulling contest held from 1:30 to 3:30 on Friday and
Saturday afternoons.  There were originally six classes but
we found we needed to add two to make competition fairer.
Classes were as follows:  Class 1 - 4 drivered locomotives,
Class 2 - 6 drivered locomotives, Class 3 - 8 drivered
locomotives, Class 4 - Geared, Class 5 - Heavy Weight
(K-27's and the like), Class 6 - Shays (thought there would
be many Accu Shays to be entered hence the separate class),
Class 0 - 2 drivered locomotives, and Class 1/2 - 1 driver
locomotives.  Class 0 and 1/2 were added as entries came in
that didn't fit the first 6 classes.  Class 6 was combined
with Class 4 as only one Shay was entered.  Here are the
results:

Class 1/2 1 Driver

1st Jim Sanders Steam Powered Tricycle negative
1 inch
2nd no entry
3rd no entry

When the measuring device cable was attached it managed to
move the tricycle backwards from the weight of the cable and
was never able to overcome the horrific strain added by
this.  We need more competition in this category next year.

Class 0 2 Drivers

1st John Clark Emelia  1 oz
2ndBill Shipp  deWinton3/4 oz
3rd Peter FoleydeWinton5/8 oz

There was another deWinton and a Grasshopper also entered.

Class 1 4 Drivers

1st John Woodroofe Riesa   4 3/8 lbs
2nd John Woodroofe Samson  4 lbs even
3rd Chris Wolcott  Ruby1 3/4 lb

There were seven entries and the Cheddar locomotives proved
to VERY powerful.  There were several Rubys and Millies
entered.

Class 2 6 Drivers

1st Peter OelschlegerGungadin 4 3/8 Lbs
2ndChris Wolcott Lady Ann 1 3/4 lbs
3rd no entry

Only two entries and the Class 1 winner pulled the same
weight with two less drivers.  The rest of you six drivered
owners need to correct this next year.

Class 3 8 Drivers

1st Steve HeseltonC-16   5 lbs even
2nd Arthur Cohen  C-16   2 1/2 lbs
3rd no entry

I guess you C-16 owners were caught napping or something as
there was a lack of competition in this class.

Class 4 Geared

1st Alvin Sadler  WM Shay   5 3/4 lbs
2nd Jim Sanders   MiCal Shay5 5/8 lbs
3rdJoel Neshkin   Heisler 4 1/4 lbs

I was disappointed in the lack of Shay entries.  I had two I
could have entered and won with but I know there would have
been a cry of foul as the event organizer.

Class 5 Heavy Weight

No entries.  I offered to make special times available for
this class due to the difficulties of bringing entries to
the line.  It would have been interesting to compare DJB's
and Accucraft's K-27's pulling power.

Class 6 Shay

Combined into the geared class and eliminated for next year
due to a lack of interest.


The next drawbar-pulling contest will be at the Midwest
Steam-up this May in St. Louis.  I will again have the
electronic (accurate to .1 oz) track in operation there.
Start tuning your locomotives now.  To date no one has
displayed any initiative to bend the rules like the NASCAR
and Dragster people do.  Seriously it's a lot of fun to see
what your locomotive is capable of actually pulling and then
comparing it to other models of similar configuration.

Bruce Gathman
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



 

Re: Photos

[Phil Paskos]

Does anybody out there remember Rube Goldberg's Smokey Stover?  This in that
very best tradition.
Great Stuff.
Happy New Year!
Phil

> Geoff,
>
> When Ron sent it this afternoon, I had to go back several times just to be
> amazed.
>
> http://www2.incredimail.com/multimedia/flash/new_year4.swf
>
>
> My Best,
>
> Chuck
>

 

Re: water level in glass

[Phil Paskos]

They are large enough, BUT don't do it. That could cause some major problems
with flow and an accurate glass reading. Most of these glasses are not big
enough in diameter to start with and as you run, the water tends to bob up
and down especially on grades. Constant attention to the water level works
the best here. Air bubbles tend to form in the small glasses used in Gauge-1
locos and the best test of accurate water levels is to check for the bobbing
mentioned above.

Phil

>
> These sight glasses for water levels, are they a large enough diameter to
> hold a small bead or such that might be read by an opticle sensor?  I am
new
> to most of this stuff but hey, just a thought... Dan McGrath
>
>
>
>
> _
> Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
>
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&D
I=7474&SU=
>
http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_addphotos_3
mf
>
>
 

Re: Fn3

[Phil Paskos]

Ahh. Yes. At least we all run 45 mm for Gauge-1. I think. None of the
Roundhouse Literature that I've seen tells you what the SR& RL #24 is. It
doesn't bother me and most of the LGB and USA rolling stock I use behind
mine looks good to my eye. And that's all I care about.

VBG - Phil

>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 5:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Fn3
>
>
> > So for #1 Gauge track, what scale should #24 be?
>
> 7/8n2 presumably!
>
> It's a forlorn bleat I am sure, but can't we give up these crazy US & Brit
> nomenclatures?
> For any miniature all you need to know is the scale ratio from the
prototype
> (correct or incorrect as the manufacturer prefers) & the track gauge in
mm,
> eg. 20.3/45
>
> Art Walker
>
>
>
 

Re: Fn3

[Phil Paskos]

I always got the impression that Roundhouse would really rather build their
locos to 32 mm, but they are enough of a realistic company to know that the
larger market is 45mm. I for one am glad to have my SR #24 in 45mm.

I haven't updated my home page for a while but for the curious;
http://home.epix.net/~ppaskos/

Phil

> According to Roger Loxley it is built to 9/16" scale as a compromise
> between 1:22 and 1:19.05 (16mm).  It is also available for the more
> nearly correct 32mm ga (Ga 0).
>

> > > Phil,
> > > NMRA designated "F" as 1:20.3, so it is 3' gauge models in 1:20.3
scale -
> > i.e. gauge 1 track with accurate scale models.
> > >
> > > The Accucraft NG steamers are all Fn3, including that beeaauuutifu
> > K-27.
> > >
> > >   Pete
> > >
> >
 

Re: Fn3

[Phil Paskos]

Thanks . I missed this one. What is a Roundhouse SR#24? Remember the
original was a narrow 2 foot Gauge. It's still my favorite G1 engine .

Phil

> In a message dated 12/10/2002 3:03:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > What is Fn3?
>
> Phil,
> NMRA designated "F" as 1:20.3, so it is 3' gauge models in 1:20.3 scale -
i.e. gauge 1 track with accurate scale models.
>
> The Accucraft NG steamers are all Fn3, including that beeaauuutifu
K-27.
>
>   Pete
>
 

Re: Accucraft K-27

[Phil Paskos]

Looks good Clark;
Thanks for sharing the pictures which also look good.
Phil




> Check out these Vance.  Dave Hottmann was running his Saturday on my
layout.
> That's 22 cars behind that engine.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/k27a.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/k27b.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/k27c.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/k27d.jpg
> http://home.earthlink.net/~clarklord/_images/k27e.jpg
>
> Clark
>

 

Re: Steam oil

[Phil Paskos]

Please enlighten me. What is Fn3?
Phil

> At last an intertesting comment.  Oh yes the fishing is excellent.  Large
> ones, small ones and some..
> Starting to sound like a song from many years ago.
> OK Elk River & Cheat Mountain RR.  It started in HO as the first brass
loco I
> bought was Elk River #3 and as I love Shays etc, in fact my nick name here
in
> my 5" live steam club is the Shay Lover.
> Anyway Cass Scenic Railroad is on Cheat Mountain where there are Shays,
> Climaxes and Heislers, thus Elk River & Cheat Mountain Railroad was born.
In
> scales from HO, Fn3 and 5" gge.
>
>
>
>   73, John de VK2XGJ
>   General Manager
> Elk River & Cheat Mountain  Railroad
>

 

Re: Steam oil

[Phil Paskos]

The 380 to 460 steam oil is fine for all hobby scales. Gauge 1 to 1 1/2" .
Like all oils when it gets colder the oil gets stiffer.

Phil

Subject: Steam oil


> Hi All, I wonder what steam oil is being used in Gauge #1 and Gauge #0
loco's.
> I've been using some #460 steam oil that I acquired but it is just about
> finished.  I have access to #600 steam oil but I think that that might be
a
> little too heavey for my Roundhouse SR&RL #24 loco.  Comments please.
>
>
>
>   73, John de VK2XGJ
>   General Manager
> Elk River & Cheat Mountain  Railroad
>
>
>
>
>
 

Re: R/C question

[Phil Paskos]

Walt;

Good post. I never thought of using telescoping square tubing. Great idea.
Plenty stiff and yet flexible going around curves. Have to try this .

Phil

> Hi,
> Some thoughts and observations on R/C for alcoholicser alky fired
loco's!
> The Aster Mikado is easy to R/C. I made a little fitting to go over the
> existing handle
(much snipped)
 

Re: clearance

[Phil Paskos]

IF  the powers that be agree to do the changes, the width will also be done.
It will depend on how bad the active Gauge-1 guys want it. If they do, they
will get enough support to do the job quickly and correctly. The part that
will take the longest is waiting for the new grass to grow over the tunnel.
Right know there are only a few who have equipment that won't work. If it's
done I'd like to see it made big enough to accommodate 7/8 scale too.

Phil

> I hope that the side clearances will also receive some attention ... we
had
> to run my Tweetsie 10-wheeler on the inner track to avoid scraping the
> outer wall ... while only about 5.5" wide, the pilot beam is about 5" in
> front of the first driver, so the overhang on the curves into the tunnel
> ment caused some paint to be removed when on the outer track.
>
> Pete
>
> At 12:29 AM 11/25/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >The PLS (Pennsylvania Live Steamers) track was built in 1996. It's hard
to
> >believe that this was before Accucraft, but it was. Some of the new
> >Accucraft Locos will not fit through our tunnel which only has 8 1/2"
> >clearance over the railhead and is not wide enough to accommodate some of
> >the Accucraft narrow gauge locos. There has been some talk about redoing
the
> >tunnel.
> >
> >Phil
> >

 

Re: clearance

[Phil Paskos]

The PLS (Pennsylvania Live Steamers) track was built in 1996. It's hard to
believe that this was before Accucraft, but it was. Some of the new
Accucraft Locos will not fit through our tunnel which only has 8 1/2"
clearance over the railhead and is not wide enough to accommodate some of
the Accucraft narrow gauge locos. There has been some talk about redoing the
tunnel.

Phil

> Walt:  Here in Las Vegas I was concerned with that same problem as I
rebuilt my
> line.  We measured the Bachman electric Shay at the foot boards and found
them
> to be 6 inches wide.  I measured the new Accucraft live steam K-27 during
the
> National Summer Steamup and found the front end to be 6 inches wide and
the
> widest part was over the cab window shades at 6 1/2 inches.
>
> And during my Fall Western steamup in October Larry Bangham's coal fired
K-27
> measured 6 1/2 inches across the front.
>
> I built my tracks with an 8 inch center to center spacing.  As for height
all
> portals, bridges support structures etc. are set at 12 inches above the
> railhead.
>
> Clark
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > In anticipation of future traffic gains on the SWAMP RR, Mr.
Lunkenheimer,
> > CFO, wishes to expand trackage and install a passing siding and a
switching
> > yard. Is there a standard for the width of 1:20.3 locomotives? The
switching
> > yard will probably only have a 1" clearance (actual, not scale) between
car
> > sides.
> > Are there any standards for car widths in 20.3?
> > Keep your steam up!
> > Walt, Mr. Lunkenheimer's associate
> >
> > PS If anyone out there will admit to having a Bachmann Sparkie Mogul,
what is
> > the overall width of the loco?
>
 

Re: Regner website

[Phil Paskos]

Interesting Site;
If you click on the monetary box in the lower left, it gives all the prices
in USD.
Phil

> On 20 Nov 2002 at 19:31, Jeffrey Williams wrote:
> > Regner has updated its English language website.  Check out:
> > http://www.mbv-schug.de/US-Online-Shop/
>
> Note that this is not Regner's official site < http://www.regner-
> dampftechnik.de/>, but one of their dealers, MBV Schug.  The owner, Lorenz
> Schug, is a fan of North American steam, as you can tell by the Accucraft
Shay
> on his English-language page.
>
> -vance-
>

 

Re: gt&e has first run

[Phil Paskos]

At the PLS (Pennsylvania Live Steamers) our "ash pits" double as easy places
to light alcohol burners. Set a mirror at a 45 degree angle so you can see
the fire in the burners easily. Saves frying plastic ties too.

Anyone in the Phila. area is welcome to our Turkey Trot Special Gauge-1 Run
day next Friday the 29th. Bring warm jackets!

Phil

Phil

> At 12:43 PM -0800 11/20/02, Anthony Dixon wrote:
> >And no ash pit either!
>
> ash pit? why would butane-powered engines need an ash pit? ;-) ...
>
> \dmc
>
> --
> ^^^
> Dave Cole
> Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
>Pacifica, Calif. USA 

> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
>
>
> ^^^
>
 

Re: supplier

[Phil Paskos]

They are a franchise deal. There is one here in Reading, PA. I also am
satisfied with their prices and service. I needed some angle iron to build a
couple of dollies for my 1" equipment and found them to have a good stock of
material and a willingness  to cut and trim metal for me. Steel, Aluminum
and some brass in stock.

Phil

> Hi,
> I've never done business with these people, but a friend here in Naples
has
> and was satisfied with the results
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com
> Keep your steam up!
> Walt
>
 

Re: Pc vs Mac / RH Vs Accucraft

[Phil Paskos]

Sometimes things need to be stirred up to get some life in the list. It's
your turn next. You've been kind of quiet lately. Of course DC is right
about sticking to SS LS.

Phil



> Well, you got yer Flack, Phil--but not from me--from our esteened
> leader--That'll  larn you. I'm mighty glad Dave wasn't my Captain, when I
> was a "Bootneck".  And Tag, "Bootnecks" never argue with Stokers--they are
> the buddies aboard ship.
>
> Geoff.   PS, Dave realises that the PC -Mac controversy could go on for
> ever!! You note that his PS gets the last word in--Clever chap!
>

 

Re: Accucraft vs Roundhouse

[Phil Paskos]

Of course Tag is right about the RH's dropping oil between the rails. The
first day I ran my SR#24 I found myself being concerned that the lubricator
wasn't working correctly. When I checked the reservoir it was going down and
the engine was working well. It wasn't until I took it off the track to put
it away that I saw where the oil was going.

Another point to consider is price. Is it fair to consider a RH SR#24 in the
same way that you would a Ruby? Of course not. And the Accucraft Shay comes
with it's own carry box  as well as carrying a price tag that can't be
touched by anyone else. Now if they only would produce an American style
road engine in 1/32".  Of course I've wished for that from Roundhouse too.
Phil


> On 11/11/02 5:31, "Phil Paskos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > O.K. I'll bite on this one too. I've never seen any Roundhouse that
spewed
> > oil all over the track. Also, the expression" runs like a Roundhouse" is
a
> > compliment on their design and quality control that they deserve.
> > Phil
> >
> Hmmm.  Mine do.  As do any other make of locomotive once fitted with my
> chuff pipe.  In fact the steam oil has to go somewhere and I prefer it to
> drop between the frames rather than out of the stack and all over the
> locomotive and trainbut then my rails are not electrified for LGB or
> similar plastic rats (ducks rapidly) :-)
> --
>
> Yours Aye
>
> Tag Gorton
> Longlands & Western Railway
> Trematon Office
> Saltash
>
> Cornwall
>
> Directors: T. Gorton, Madame E. Lash
>
 

Re: Accucraft vs Roundhouse

[Phil Paskos]

O.K. I'll bite on this one too. I've never seen any Roundhouse that spewed
oil all over the track. Also, the expression" runs like a Roundhouse" is a
compliment on their design and quality control that they deserve.
Phil


> Chuck's "My Best" "we should be arguing that Roundhouse is better than
> Accucraft "
>
> OK Chuck, I'll bite.  How is Roundhouse better than Accucraft?  I was
> drooling over the new Accucraft Shay.  If I am better off saving a bit
more
> for a Roundhouse #24 or Forney, please wax eloquent and make your response
> reed with specificity so that I am convinced to save my money for a latter
> purchase of a Roundhouse.
> Gary - chilling in Eugene, Oregon

 

Re: HOAX, was Re: ?virus

[Phil Paskos]

Don't let anyone tell you that Macs don't hang up or need to be rebooted at
times. I've seen one wipe out the whole OS 10 operating system that had to
be reloaded  and it took at least as long as reloading windows 98. ( waitng
for the flack now!)
Phil

> In a message dated 11/10/02 9:25:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << Or buy an iMac! >>
> Oh!  You Mac people are so pompous:-)  I will someday, all my
friends
> who are into serious graphics use them.
> Bob
>
 

Re: Track Help for Ferdinand

[Phil Paskos]

For those who don't like the look of aluminum rail, you can use a product
that we use at the PA live Steamers called Sikkens. It's a "heavy" paint
like stain that we put on the plywood top, rail, and ties all at once. Wipe
the top of the rail off after applying it. It comes in different colors.
Choose your favorite. It is not cheap, but it does cover a lot of area. If
you want to see what it looks like check my page at
http://home.epix.net/~ppaskos/  and check the shot of my SR#24. It shows the
way our track looks  very well. Hand laying with cedar ties in the right
area will work very well and give a long lasting realistic track. The
Sikkens on the aluminum rail and cedar ties will add to the look.

Phil

> Hi Bob
> Thanks for your experience. I am thinking of going
> the aluminum route - I have tons of cedar (our property is nearly all
> cedar trees
> and we have 3 cedar mills within 5 min drive.) so the ties are free -
> this makes hand laying the
> track appealing - I just wasn't sure if this made for reliable track. I
> am starting to
> discover that a level grade is a good idea. Should make for some
> engineering fun as nothing
> on our property is level (other than the middle of our lawn which would
> never fly with
> the rest of my family)
> Thanks again
> Cheers Ferdinand
> On Thursday, October 10, 2002, at 10:35  PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>

 

Re: boiler insulation

[Phil Paskos]

Would it be possible to rebush the existing gear? Work ? yes, but not as
much as building all new gear.
Phil

> Dear Zbigniew,
>
> Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.
>
> To correct myself on the A3, there wasn't much play in the valve gear,  it
> was in the reverser and the linkage to the valve gear, more for my
> satisfaction than the expectation of better running, as it it runs very
> well now.
>
> I did assemble a C&S Mogul--the play in all parts of the valve gear was
> "overplayed".--It was sloppy! There was one fellow, whose name I can't
> recall, who solved the problem by manufacturing all new valve gear!
> Probably the only way to sure success! I appreciate your input and
> experience on assembly and testing.
>
> Steam on,
>
> Geoff.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Dear Geoff,
> >Thank you for your kind words. As I elaborated on in another email
> >just sent, I am still hesitant about the gap. Measurements convince
> >me, although the extra amount of work and the need to shop for the
> >components may be a strong counter-argument. I haven't decided yet.
> >I have to remark that my efforts to keep every Joule of energy in
> >place should make me a perfect Dutchman;^)! But as to my origins,
> >they are more steam-and-narrow-gauge-land than under-water-land!
> >I am most intrigued by your work on removing the play in the valve
> >gear. I believe this is a long researched phenomenon in the C&S Mogul,
> >but I have recently been playing around with the valve gear wondering
> >if the play of about 1 mm should not be reduced... (the steam inlets
> >in the cylinders are about 1.5 mm!!) In effect symmetrical steam
> >transfer is only possible in one direction (say forward) while
> >the other direction will be strongly asymmetrical (only one side of the
> >cylinder will receive steam). Surprisingly, air test only shows
> >later activation of the movement in the asymmetrical direction, not
> >a much more violent and irregular (un-smooth) running. In fact, for
> >small openings of the reverser the running is very nervous and violent
> >in both directions (symmetrical and asymmetrical steam inlet opening)
> >to the same degree. This would mean that there is little practical
> >need for removing the play, it would only shorten the dead region
> >in the reverser range but not improve the running for small opening.
> >Happy steaming!
> >Zbigniew
>
>
>
>
 

Re: boiler insulation

[Phil Paskos]

Westabix packet?   What's that?

Phil

> Whilst it's quite possible to spend a small fortune on fancy materials for
> lagging, one that works very well and costs little is a cut up Weetabix
packet.
>
> I kid you not.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
 

Re: Cleaning solutions

[Phil Paskos]

I've never liked Windex for anything other than cleaning windows and/or
mirrors either. And I do use WD-40 for cleaning as you do. It leaves a nice
shine on the loco and does remove oil and grease. And I also agree that it
is NOT a lubricant.

Phil

> Any of you using WD-40? I've used this successfully for years to clean the
> gunk and grit off of vintage motorcycles with great results and was
> considering using on my Forney.  Seems to loosen off old oil and grit
while
> leaving a protective residue that doesn't seem to hurt paint, plastic, or
> rubber.
> Of course I'd follow up with light oil for the bearings and bushes since
> WD-40 is not really a lubricant but more of a
cleaner-protectant..Earle

 

Re: Flying Scotsman/coal firing

[Phil Paskos]

Geoff;
I'm assuming you soak the charcoal in Kerosene first. One of the advantages
to belonging to a club comes into play here. While you're waiting
(impatiently) for the fire, you get to visit and chat with like minded souls
doing the same thing. Mike Moore is the resident Gauge1 coal firing expert.
You do pay very close attention to what is going on.  When Mike started a
couple of years ago, he had at least a half dozen different kinds of coal he
played with. He has found that not even all the Welsh coal is created equal.
Phil

> >Tony et al,
>
> No wonder I have been unable to thin Aster paint! Isn't Trichlorethylene
> used in some  cleaning sprays. I used to use it a lot which probably
> accounts for my condition today!
>  The (blank scale) Britannia ran very well as I actually took time to lay
a
> proper sized bed of charcoal and waited (impatiently) for it to burn to
the
> right color before adding the coal. The compressed venturi nozzle I
patched
> together worked much better for this loco than the blower fan ever did.
>
>  Of course, the fire making applies to the smaller (blank scales) as
> well!--Alto' I believe the smaller locos are more tricky to fire.
>
> Paint again--the toughest paint jobs I've ever seen on a loco are those of
> Tom Cooper's on the Merlins!
>
> Geoff.
>
>
>
> Hi Geoff,
> > You are correct again.
> >  I suggest one of Asters best kept secrets is their paint, prep and
> >applications methods. And certainly a standard other suppliers need to
> >equal. However Asters touch up paint as supplied, is too thick to blend,
> >and I understand that the only usable thinner is Trichlorethylene with
> >nasty fumes, not conducive to a long life!. It is, I believe now an OSHA
> >no-no in USA. I tried to obtain some, to touch up several hairline
> >scratches on a U1 for a friend of mine, but have not had any luck.
> >   Tony D.
> > 06:30 PM 7/31/02 -0700, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
> >>  Dear Tony et al,
> >>
> >>Tch, Tch
> >>
> >>You wrote:
> >>
> >> >  Details sound good. Especially if they copied the sight
> >> >glass/pressure gauge (gage) layout from my Duchess!.
> >>
> >>Hope they didn't copy the paint job--you asked for it!
> >>
> >>You wrote again:
> >>
> >> >  I think a better improvement would have been if they had
replaced the
> >> >"prototypical" reverser screw jack with a "quandrant lever" to give
better
> >> >and faster access for adjusting the cut-off and immediate reversing
> >> >movement. Also would have helped considerably when converting to
R/C.<<
> >>
> >>Absolutely!! my reverser on those screw jack locos is the hand of God!
> >>
> >>You wrote again, again:
> >>
> >> >  I like the idea of "external" lubrication adjust feature. Does
this
> >> >have a drip sight glass also?<
> >>
> >>Yer right.but the drip sight glass?- I'm the only drip around here!
> >>
> >>More info when I get the loco and more pints!
> >>
> >>Stay with it List! Wonder how many are  getting the Flying Scotsman and
are
> >>there any comments--especially from you Brits or Aussies? who may
already
> >>have them up and steaming? I realise many of you have kits--I'm
deviating
> >>this time and getting the built-up.  It had better steam as well as my
> >>kits!!  Ho, Ho, you say
> >>
> >>Geoff.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
 

Re: Flying Scotsman

[Phil. Paskos]

Hi Olde Buddee;
I won't tell a soul.

Phil

> What's the Buzz, tell me what's happening, What's the Buzz. Tell---
>
> From my favourite musical!
>
> Anyone know when the Flying Scotsman will be delivered to purchasers in
the
> US.  Are they held in the hands of Hans??? We are all at his mercy.
>
> Ancient, impatient Old Geoff.
>
> PS. I'm steaming my 3/4 Britannia tomorrow. Using that good Welsh coal
too.
> ---but I really shouldn't mention it on this list!
>
>

 

Re: Accucraft and build-to-order

[Phil Paskos]

Or how about? Yes we are going to build the Live steam Daylight or No we
aren't going to build it. Roy Ganderson just took delivery of the new shay.
It comes with its own metal carrying case and ran very well right out of the
box, BUT the boiler is too small to accomidate the fuel tank. Yes he ran the
boiler dry before the fuel ran out. He's looking to add a goodal valve.

Phil

> Odd ... I went to the Accucraft site looking for pricing and reservation
> information on the live steam K-27.  Nothing.
>
> On the other hand, they have all four models of the live steam C-16 listed
as
> "in stock" -- I thought I remembered seeing those listed as "build to
order"
> only a short while back?!
>
> -vance-
>
> There are two ways to make a person homeless --
> destroy his home or make his home look like everyone else's.
>
>
 

Re: boiler bushings

[Phil. Paskos]

The ones you can get to easily will never cause a problem, the ones that are
tough to get to will be the ones that will have the "fishy" threads. Some
call this Murphy's Law.
Phil


> When possible, I don't thread them in advance.  I drill an undersized
pilot
> hole, do the soldering, then drill and tap them after they are installed.
> Exception to this is if there will be great difficulties reaching them.
> bill
> CCED

 

Re: boiler bushings

[Phil. Paskos]

A bit of never seize on the plugs won't hurt either.
Phil


>
> << it's that the thread
>  crests can overheat and be in danger of burning if exposed to the direct
>  heat of the flame.  >>
> I definetely agree with what Harry says and filling with a steel threaded
> plug works.  Something not mentioned is:  DON'T PLUG THEM ALL!  Gotta have
> some place for the air to escape!
> When silver soldering it is very necessary to  concetrate heat to your
> largest piece and only at the last minute to play the torch to the
soldered
> area.  I think this is the hardest part, as that takes patience.
>
>
>


 

Re: Tender Hand Pump

[Phil. Paskos]

How small? Do you have dimensions for it?
Phil



> Robb,
>
> The new 2002 Mercedez Bends 750 V12 has a very small stainless steel (no
> rust) return fuel pump on its fuel injector system that is ideal for water
> pump use for filling a boiler.  It can operate with up to a 70 psi head
and
> all it takes is a little 9V battery to make it run.  The battery can run
it
> for about 60 minutes continuously before it begins to slow down.  That a
lot
> of boiler fillings for a $1.50 battery cost.  The pump requires two 4 mm
> screws to fasten it.  It takes about 1 minute to fill a #268 boiler.  It
> needs a 5 mm hose to connect it.   This pump might be your solution.
>
> Arthur, Mexico City
>

> _
> - Original Message -
> From: "Gary Broeder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 12:12 AM
> Subject: Re: Tender Hand Pump
>
>
> > Robb,
> >
> > You could make one that pumps up and down. I recall seeing one in a past
> > issue of Garden Rail. I have locos with cross wise and front to back,
they
> > both work fine. Forward to back is nice if you are between 2 rows of
> > locos/trains.
> >
> > GaryB
> >
> >
>
>

 

Re: SR&RL #24 problems

[Phil. Paskos]

Interesting;
I had no idea the Fowler has such tractive force. But, an 8% grade is asking
a lot of any engine. My RH24 is still my favorite.

Phil

> Vince
> This may not be part of your problem, but I found that the
"Power-to-Weight Ratio" on the #24 is significantly less than my Roundhouse
Fowler.  I bought one but returned it because it wouldn't pull up an 8%
grade by it's self (with no train) when my Fowler will routinely pull 3 or 4
heavy cars up that 8% grade.  Even my Argyle Bantam pulls that same grade
with a short train of light cars.
> Earl Martin
>

 

Re: MACHINING CAST IRON (was MATERIALS FOR PROJECT)

[Phil. Paskos]

O.K. Casey;

I understand. Just a thought. 

Phil


 

Re: MACHINING CAST IRON (was MATERIALS FOR PROJECT)

[Phil. Paskos]

Casey;

I'm not that familiar with the melting point of cast iron, but you could
make a few bucks and help some fellow live steamers out if you could make
cast iron wheels. I'm planning on building a Reading K1 in 1". It's a big
project and a big engine. 2 of the drivers are box poc wheels the other 8
are spoked wheels and the pilot wheels are also spoked. Lots of castings
needed!

Phil

> Keith,
>
> Much thanx for the advice.  I live in Maryland, about halfway between
> Washington, DC and Annapolis, and just south of Baltimore.  I belong to
the
> Chesapeake and Allegheny live steam club in Baltimore, so I should be able
> to find someone in the group with a lathe big enough to handle the initial
> cuts on the wheel castings.
>
> I spoke with the machine shop instructor of a local adult ed course a
couple
> of years ago, but he didn't want to have someone in his class of beginning
> students going off on their own project.  He wanted everyone to make the
> same set of nesting screwdrivers for the class project.  No help there.  A
> local community college has a machine shop program but all their courses
are
> based on CNC machines, with emphasis on learning to program the machines.
> Not much help there, either.
>
> I've been doing some experimenting with scrap cast iron, "seasoning" it in
> the pottery kiln I use for my aluminum and bronze foundry work.  The kiln
> heats up very slowly, taking perhaps 2 hours from a cold start until I can
> get out the first batch of molten aluminum (1200-1300 degrees F).  The
kiln
> will get to a maximum of 2300 degrees F after about 3 hours of use.  Eight
> hours after I shut down, the inside of the kiln is still warm to the
touch.
> I have some cast iron that I put in the kiln before my last foundry
session
> and it got to be red hot while I was pouring aluminum.  I left the iron in
> the kiln for a day after shutting down, so it took 8-10 hours or so to
cool
> down to room temperature.  I haven't yet tried to machine these pieces,
> which I hope are now of uniform hardness, no hard skin.  If that works out
> OK I'll try the same dodge with some of the wheel castings in an attempt
to
> alleviate the hard skin problem.
>
> My Unimat can handle a cut of about .004" in a 1" diameter mild steel bar
> without slipping.  Based on that, I'm sure it will not work if I tried to
> horse off 10 thou of cast iron skin at one go.  However, I can fit a hand
> crank to the spindle of the lathe which would give me enough torque to get
> through that much iron.  I can expect to crank maybe 30 RPM max, which
would
> be just about right for this job.
>
> Lots of room for experimenting, here.
>
> Casey Sterbenz
>
> >From: "Keith Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: MATERIALS FOR PROJECT
> >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:07:43 -0400
> >
> >Casey,
> >You should be alright with those choices, and you may have other options
> >about doing the wheels. Does your local adult education classes have
> >anything for metal working? If so, the cost of tuition gets you access to
> >some industrial grade machines, and insructors love to find folks who are
> >into machining as a hobby, and are actually building something! Nearby
> >fellow Live Steamers can also be a good bet for assistance, off hand, I
now
> >forget where you live, but there must be some modelers nearby!
> >I also think if you are careful, you could still machine the wheels on a
> >unimat, others have done so succesfully. The big trick is to not try and
> >take off teeny little bits, as you will ruin even a carbide bit. On the
> >first cut, you absolutely HAVE to get under the skin, completely! Sure,
> >that
> >cut will be a little ragged looking, but it would if you were using a 13"
> >South Bend Toolroom lathe too! Once the hard skin is gone, you can take
> >light cuts of a couple of thous at a time, and get a fine finish using a
> >round nosed tool bit. But for that firsst cut, you have to go deep, so
the
> >tip of the tool is in soft iron, and not hard surface crud, which gives
yo
> >an intermitant cut as well as trying to turn stuff as hard as glass!
That's
> >why you are slipping the belt, if you have to, file by hand a staring
place
> >to get the point of the tool under the skin. And remember, the skin is
> >deeper than just the rough surface, you still need to go eight or ten
> >thousandths under the surface, after breaking through the rough outer
> >layer!
> >Finf some old window sash weights, when somebody is getting replacement
> >windows, you will find some great cast iron for free in those old window
> >weights! Then practise cutting beneath the skin, and you can also supply
> >your self with enough freight car wheels to last a life time, from one
sash
> >weight!
> >and they are usually free!
> >Let me know how you make out!  Keith
>
>
> _
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
>

 

Re: Lucas /off topic

[Phil. Paskos]

I had an MG-B. The windshield wipers worked great until it rained. Then they
didn't work at all.

Enough already;
Phil



>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Phil. Paskos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > Ahh Yes;
> >
> > The only reason the Brits drink warm beer is because they have Lucas
> > refrigerators. o:)
> > Phil
> Oh yes! I remember well my encounters with "The Prince of Darkness!" My
> MGB-GT was cursed with Lucas Electrics
> Keith Taylor
>
>

 

Re: 1/6 Formula and Exhaust Nozzle (was "Slow spam down tip")

[Phil. Paskos]

Ahh Yes;

The only reason the Brits drink warm beer is because they have Lucas
refrigerators. o:)
Phil



> Tony et al,
>
> God, no excuse now--do you have beer in the 'fridge--lots?--but warm it
first!
>
> That Roundhouse Elsa ! luverly--a b/d present from your wife--wotta lass
> will do to keep her spouse properly stabled! I shall visit GR # 93 which I
> have in my--hmm -where is it now? I have visited GR Specialists-near
Henley
> on Thames, my birthplace. They are really getting into the live steam act.
> I was able to get lamps from them for the 3/4" Britannia and GNR Atlantic.
> Great service too. There is a website for interested list members:
>
> http://www.grsuk.com
>
> This is not an advertisement for personal gain!
>
> Now, having been born almost on the Thames--just in the mud, actually! I
> can fully understand why that Limey fell into the jacuzzi. If I visit
> please have the good sense to cover it!!
>
> Yep, I'm looking forward to July--all the steamer friends, you and Elsa,
> even if she is butane fired!
>
>  'fraid there won't be any Flying Scotsmen yet!!
>
> geoff
>
>


 

Re: Aster "Reno"

[Phil. Paskos]

I wish I could ship you some. We are "officially" still in a drought, but I
went to PLS today for a special steamup for some preschool youngsters and we
had water from the Perkiomen Creek under Mercer Bridge. We did have a small
rain storm last night.The track never got under water.
Phil

> Hi,
> You are not alone, mine is 11 also.
> Keep your steam up!
> B.W. Lunkenheimer, CFO, The drySwamp RR
> (we need rain!)

 

Re: Butane valve leak

[Phil. Paskos]

O.K. Gary;

As far as I know, there is not a better one available. I try to keep a
pair of needle nose pliers handy to tug on it if necessary. That works at
times. I was steaming up at the cabin fever expo on a siding when one of
Murray Wilson's alkie locos when by just as my last valve stuck. The ball of
fire was quite impressive.

Phil


> Thanks Phil,
> The valve itself is not resealing. The butane liquid squirts out of the
> stainless steel nozzle.
> No soapy water needed to test this one. I have wriggled it to see if it
> might reseal without
> success. You mention the valves are "pieces of junk". Is there an
> alternative valve?
> I better order a couple spares.
> By the way, despite this being a friend's loco, I removed all of the smoke
> generating valves and tubing and the tank to hold 80 wt. gear oil. I hope
to
> make a real water tank with a hand pump.
> Gary - Eugene, Oregon
>


 

Re: Butane valve leak

[Phil. Paskos]

Assuming you are using one of the Ronson style filling valves, check to see
if the leak is coming from the outside threads. If that is the case, put
Teflon tape on them and see if it seals. If it's the filler valve, you must
replace it. These fillers are a pain in the butt and are totally un-reliable
pieces of junk. I always keep at least 2 spares in my tool-box.  Dab a
little soapy water around the valve to check it.

Phil

> The Steamlines Shay butane tank valve has developed a leak.
> When I fill it the valve allows lots of butane to escape before it seals.
> What are the repair steps?
> BTW ~ The fuel economy saved by installing the radiant burner is
completely
> counteracted. Run times are about ten minutes from first firing to running
> about four minutes.
> Gary - Eugene, OR
>

 

Re: water input

[Phil. Paskos]

O.K. I'm not sure what the smallest that will work is, but 1/8" O.D. seems
to be about as small as I've seen. There is no way you can go scale here.
Remember, some things don't scale. The water glasses on almost all G-1 live
steam engines is to small to be really reliable. Meniscus of the water on
the small glass gives non-reliable readings at times.There are a lot of
opportunities to make your engines close to scale, but not in all areas of
live steam. Golly, G-1 can't even make up it's mind about what scale to
build it's trains at.  Anything from 1/20th or so to 1/32 seems to
available.

Phil

> Phil, Jim, Mike et al :
>
> Thanks for the input re input water.  So . . . next question.  If the
water input
> pipe is to be exposed to view, what would be the smallest OD/ID pipe
advisable ?
>
> royce in SB
>
>
>

 

Re: water input

[Phil. Paskos]

It's not a dumb question, but first let's make sure where front and back of
the boiler is. The back is where the water check valves go. Mostly they are
in the cab area of the loco. Normally in the larger G-1 engines, you'll find
2 fittings that look alike.  One is from the axle pump( if one is fitted)
and the other from the tender hand pump. The output of the pump must be able
to over come boiler pressure to get water in the boiler. Thus they are
fitted from  low to mid height to avoid pumping cold water into the area
above the crown sheet where you would be killing the pressure in the boiler.
I'm not sure this is the best way of putting this, but it should be close. A
device called a goodal valve can also be used to put water in the boiler.
These are fitted higher and can even be in the top of the boiler. A squeeze
bottle with a strong pump will work here. A better way is to use a trackside
pump mounted in a tray of water. Some things have to be sacrificed scale
wise to get these small live steamers to work.

Phil

> Hi listers.  This may be a dumb question, but where does water from an
> axle pump actually go into the boiler ?  Or for that matter, from a
> hand pump in the tender tank ?  It would seem that in our scales, a
> fitting on the front of the boiler mid height would be out of scale if
> functional.  Thanks.
>
> royce in SB
>

 

Re: Regner steam engine/currency topic

[Phil. Paskos]

This is slightly off topic, but I think would be of use to a lot of members
on the list.
http://www.x-rates.com/calculator.html

The above URL brings an up to date currency calculator on your screen. Put
in the money values and get a very quick and accurate value of British
pounds to U.S. dollars for example.
Phil

> >
> > > > I have discovered a small mallet to be made by Regner. Total price
is
> > > > $2010.43 as near as I can figure converting Euro dollars to US
> dollars.
> > > > Regner 20850Kit 99633 Württembergische Tssd,  USD $1765.65


 

Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Number 805

[Phil. Paskos]

I know this is off subject, but Norton also does a great job in cleaning up
"cookies" and other internet garbage. You'd be amazed at how much disk space
you can recover by running Norton and speeding up your machine. No I don't
work for them.
Phil


(snip.snip)
> by Symantec.  I have tried McAfee and Norton, I like Norton's features
> better.  They both do an admirable job of protection.
>
> A bad day running trains beats a good day at work!
>   http://home.earthlink.net/~jess3599/
>
>
>

 

Re: Mason Bogie Re: sight glass fittings

[Phil. Paskos]

Sulphur Springs distributes these in the U.S. Give them a call. Or  E-mail
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phil

> Do you have a web address or e-mail address for Rishon Locomotives?
> I am VERY interested in Mason Bogies!
> Cheers
> Michael
> Florida
> USA
> Iron Nut
>


 

Re: sight glass fittings

[Phil. Paskos]

Rishon Locomotives makes the Mason Bogie that uses LED's for water level
control. A member of PLS  has one and it works fine. In Sunny weather he
does shade the light to make sure he can see it.

Phil

> Harry,
> I had an older stationary boiler and steam engine many years ago which had
a
> glass window at one end of the boiler.  The boiler diameter was probably
> similar to many gauge 1 boilers. If the back head did not have many
> appliances, could something like this work?
>
> Also, the latest gauge 1 magazine (another fantastic issue!!) had a neat
> article on a coal fired boiler and hit on some electronic water level
> lights.  Does anyone have any experience with this concept for water level
> indication?
>
> J.R.


 

Re: bronze assay

[Phil. Paskos]

A lot of pots and pans manufacturers plate their wares with copper.
Phil

> What is the reaction of stainless steel to copper?
> 
> Norman
> NJ
> 
> 

 

Re: Cylinder gaskets

[Phil. Paskos]

As Geoff knows; We're both O.S. fans, so we're used to good finishes and
fitting parts.

Phil

Jim, Phil et al,

I knew you were a bloomin' conniving genius, Jim--that is the best solution
yet!! -But I'm too honest, so will you send me the gasket material??--I'll
do the cutting up and return the gaskets to you!!

Phil, I  had used your  suggestion  for repair of my compressor.

>>I use Permatex Copper gasket . It's reddish in color and seals well and
>>yet if you must take the covers off, can be pealed off easily and it's
>>good for heat in excess of 400 degrees F."<<

I worried about  using it for locos,--too hard to remove at a later date,
but your statement removes that worry.  Thanks.

Geoff.

Gang
>
>I learned the US dollar bill trick from Doug Patman(sp?) in Canada.
>Cautioned me to use only USD.  BTW Kevin, you can cut up 48% of the bill,
>take it to a bank, and once they see it is over 50% there... they will give
>you a "FREE" replacement.  So your 30 cents goes to ZERO.   And Old
>Spencely won't have to sneak in Queenie's bag looking for gasket material.
>
>Jim
>===
>At 10:10 AM 04/17/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>>Sir Art wrote:
>>
>>Don't you guys have laws against doing this ??
>>
>> Art,  We don't have the Queen's head on our bills. Memories!-I used to
>>visit the "Queen's Head" in Richmond- and drink the "King's" ale!!
>>
>>>
>>Next time, Kevin, to my wife's purse and a buck bill. Cost--zilch!!
>>
>>Geoff.
>>>- Original Message -
>>>From: "Kevin Strong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 I've had good luck by cutting gaskets from dollar bills.  And if I
>need to replace them,
 you get two or three sets out of one bill. Makes the cost around 30¢
per
 set.

>




 

Re: What's on the bench

[Phil. Paskos]

I use Permatex Copper gasket . It's reddish in color and seals well and yet
if you must take the covers off, can be pealed off easily and it's good for
heat in excess of 400 degrees F.
Phil

> The bench has a scattered number of parts to a G1, 0-4-2T "Brazil". It had
> been assembled and run on air, taken apart, painted, and ready for
steaming.
> What's a dead sure way of gasketing the steam chest and cylinders? These
> little critters are in no way as forgiving as a 1 1/2" engine. Thanks for
> any suggestions.
>
> Norman
> NJ
>
>

 

Re: Coal firing

[Phil. Paskos]

And I'll bet you didn't even bite the dog back!  Get well soon Olde Buddee!
Did you notice a hotter fire than with the older coal you used to use? Most
do. The good news is that here on the East Coast is that there are 2 sources
of the stuff now.  Glad to hear the Britannia is treating you well.

Phil

> Hallo  Tony et al,
>
> I keep missing these steamups--Clark's too--It's my wife's fault for being
> born--the family comes from far and near on her birthday to sympathise
over
> her marriage!
>
> It wasn't MY dog that bit me and I'm still infected--more so than my
normal
> state! I haven't started barking and foaming yet, I only manage to get my
> locos to do that. It was lovely firing the Britannia with good Welsh
> coal--no clinkers, light on the smoke, hi on the steam
>
>
> Dam the antiboitics and dack to a hot poltice!
>
> Geoff.
>
>
>
>


 

Re: That Forney is a Fairlie (or a Mason Bogie?)

[Phil. Paskos]

Roundhouse insists that it's locos run on small radius track. I suspect that
is why they "cheated" on the Forney design.

Phil

>
>
> Was there any real difference in basic design between a Mason Bogie and
> a Single Fairlie - or is a Fairlie by definition a double-ended device?
> Just curious.
>
> Farlies were made in both double and single versions and are known as
> such.
>
> >
> > It clearly raises the possibilty that Roundhouse may be thinking of
producing a Double Fairlie...
>
> I doubt this but.
>
> Sam E

 

Re: PM Research boiler/Cheddar boilers

[Phil. Paskos]

Cheddar will build a boiler to your specs. Price?  Check their site as shown
below.
http://www.modelsteam.co.uk/

Phil



> Thanks Steve & Keith for the comments about the PM Research boiler.
Keith,
> if I may ask: what I'm considering isn't too different from the beautiful
> Goldbug you're showing on your site now, except that the GAGE would go
> cross-wise rather than lengthwise on the chassis on standard-gauge track.
> Did you use a stock boiler on Goldbug?  Is it adequate steamwise?  I have
> wondered whether a Cheddar boiler would work, but I can't find them listed
> as available separately nor have I been able to find their exterior
> dimensions.  David
>
>

 

Re: Quest for Coal

[Phil. Paskos]

For those in the Eastern part of the U.S., try Veniza Enterprises, Inc. in
Jackson, N.J. Phone 732-364-0994. email : HIGHIRON@AOL  They
sell the Welsh Dry Steam coal in bean or small nut sizes by the 44 pound bag
at $18.00 per bag in N.J. or by the ton (50 bags) at $15.00 per bag. Mike
Moore used this at cabin fever expo in his John Shawe coal fired Aster K-4
with very good results.

Phil

> Hi John,
> Thanks for your coal update.  Do you have a contact you could share for
your
> new coal find.  I have been looking for a source for my Black Adder.
>


 

Re: Steamlines Shay/Source of gears

[Phil. Paskos]

If you can find an old adding machine, they have a lot of small high quality
gears in them. I'm not sure if the ratios would be good, but.

Phil. P.

> > > where to get appropriate gears?
> >
>

 

Re: Other boiler related topic

[Phil. Paskos]

Not a bad idea except for the Hoppies#5. Coal residue would be closer to
black powder shooters residue. Those guys use soap and water on their nylon
bristle brushes and final swab down with cotton brushes. You can use brass
brushes in steel boiler tubes, but I wouldn't use them in Copper.

Phil P

> Richard,
> Look in the housewares dept at the hardware store, they often have small
> diameter brushes with long handles. Try the sporting goods stores that
handle
> firearms, they have gun cleaning rods of various diameters, brushes,
cleaning
> patches, etc. Hoppies #5, I think, might help dissolve the residue. I know
it
> helps clean a gun barrel.
> Keep your steam up!
> Walt

 

Re: 5 or 2

[Phil. Paskos]

The general consensus around S.E. PA( freezing temp. in Winter) is to either
fill completely or keep empty. Empty is best if the boiler is not subject to
high humidity areas where condensation can form in the boiler. Like in
Florida. or even Se PA in the summer.Full is obviously not good if
subfreezing temperatures exist. If you choose to fill completely, I'd hang a
visible tag on the loco noting the date of the filling and drain and refill
at least 4 times a year. Highly recommended is the use of LSB 8000 boiler
treatment to keep the boiler clean and even clean up healthy but dirty
boilers. Blowing down the boiler at the end of the run day is always a good
thing to do. If you really want expert advice, check their website at
http://www.terlyn.com/

Phil.P.

> This brings up a point I've been wondering about. Is it better to drain
the
> boiler after each run day, or fill it to the top, or just let is stand the
> way it was when you dropped the fire. Obviously there is a difference to
be
> considered re boiler material, but what experiences can you guys relate?
> I'm somewhat more concerned about the ferrous boilers on the 7.5" loco's
at
> the Depot, but the recent experience with the shay that had been partially
> filled with water for 10 years wasn't exactly an endorsement for partial
> filling!
> Keep your steam up!
> Mr. Lunkenheimer's associate (Walt)
>

 

Re: New Bio/safety valve tests

[Phil. Paskos]

You can test the safeties with a cold water hydro test. Fill the boiler with
water and pump pressure in it. The safety should lift within 5 PSI of where
it's rated. The only thing wrong with this test is that it does not
guarantee that the safety will drop the pressure fast enough to keep it
under the maximum rated pressure. Cold Vs hot is not significant. Checking
the boiler to 150% or 200% means plugging the safeties or holding them
closed. I prefer to plug them. This may be more than you wanted to know, but
it does answer the question. By the way, A calibrated gauge should be used
to check the engine gauge to make sure they are the same. Frankly we don't
do this to Gauge-1 engines.

Phil.P..


(snip...snip)
> On a small-scale topic, do each of you test your safety valve while
raising
> steam?  The British style have a post projecting from the top that you can
grab
> with pliers and tug on.  This verifies that the stem is loose and that it
will
> seat again after closing.  I've seen other types that just have a hole in
the
> top -- how do you test those to make sure they're going to open and
reseat?
>
> -vance-
>

 

Re: More DH photos

[Phil. Paskos]

Nice Pix Carl.!

Phil.P.

> Well,
> 
> It helps to put in the URL for the photos...oops... I'm still recovering
> from sleep loss.
> 
> DH pix at:
> http://www.geocities.com/carlosmalone/dh02/dh02.htm
> 
> Carl
> 
> Carl Malone
> Algerita Botanical Railway
> San Angelo, Tx
> 

 

Re: Lowest PRACTICAL outdoor operating temperature?

[Phil. Paskos]

40 degrees F. is about as low as I feel comfortable in. I can get away
without gloves and my butane fired locos still work well.

Phil.P.

> I would like to know what you all think or believe is the lowest PRACTICAL
> outdoor temperature that you would run steamers at.  I'm thinking in terms
> of not freezing your fingers off, or running for warming up yourself, and
> partaking in the normal operational style.
>
> I know that someone will say that they got it all running indoors and then
> took it out and ran, but that is like the guys in the polar bear club
> jumping into the icy lake.
>
> Mike Eorgoff
> near Chicago
>

 

Re: Building a live steam track

[Phil. Paskos]

What area of what country do you live?  It makes a big difference on what
will work.  I live in U.S.A S.E. PA.  What works and holds up here may not
work where you live. Varnished plywood over cemented in support posts with
various shimming leveling arrangements works well here and is used
extensively. But, in other parts of the country will not hold up at all.

Phil.P.

(much sniped)
> Has anyone done a survey of alternate construction techniques and
> materials for an elevated live steam track?  I'm doing the planning for
> one of my own and would like to learn from other's experiences.
>


 

Re: Cylinder vs. Axle Alignment

[Phil. Paskos]

By the way; You can highlight the URL when you are there and use the edit
/copy command. The when you type your email message,  you can paste it in
the message to avoid any errors in the URL address.

Phil.P.

> Trent Dowler wrote:
> >
> >
> >Ok, how do I get around using "html mail"? Some things I understand,
> > some I don't.
> >
> Instead of trying to put a link in the message, just type the URL into
> the message.  When you try to send a link, windows is being stupid and
> attaching a file.

 

Re: Cylinder vs. Axle Alignment

[Phil. Paskos]

Trent;

If you're using Outlook Express ( the default windows mail system) the
following instructions will get you away from HTML.   Click on tools. then
options. click on the send tab. Near bottom see mail sending format. click
on plain text. Click on apply and then click O.K.

That will send text in plain text format. If you are on news groups, you
might want to change the newsgroups text to plain text too.

If you're using Netscape or AOL I can't help.

Phil.P. Reading,PA.

> Hello Paul,
>
>Ok, how do I get around using "html mail"? Some things I understand,
> some I don't.
>I'll try to find more information and do some experimenting.
>Thanks for the point in the right direction.
>
> Later,
> Trent
>
>
> Paul Golisch wrote:
>
> >you are using html mail  :o))
> >
>

 

Re: Accucraft C-16 excessive steam oil usage

[Phil. Paskos]

I'm sure I'm oversimplifying the problem. But I'd look for a way to put a
restricter plug or tube in line to slow down the oil distribution.

Respectfully;

Phil.P.


(much snipped)
> Now to figure out what to do about the excessive oil usage.
>
> Also be warned that any C-16 that intends to run on my track will have
> to have the stretcher rod removed before running here.  A clean track is
> a happy track.
>
> Best Wishes for the Holidays Ya'll
>
> Clark
>
 

(No subject)

[Phil. Paskos]

? 
 

Re:Wada Works A-4 Camelback 1st Report (LONG)

[Phil. Paskos]

After a very long wait I received my WADA Works Camelback last week.

Specs:
   Alcohol fired;
'D' valve Steam Chest;
 Stephenson Valve Gear;
 Kadee Couplers;
 R/C Mountings?;( I have some experience with R-C but how to do the
reversing gear has me - so far)
 Tender with Hand pimp;
 Also Goodall filler valve on boiler
Axle pump.
1/32 scale(appears to be very close)
Water Glass
Pressure Gauge

Appearance:
  The engine is very nicely done and is close to prototypical in appearance.
The paint on the roof should have been black. The Reading Railroad had some
locos with Brown roofs, but not like this one and none of the Camelbacks had
roofs like this. The quality of the machining is very good . The setup and
execution of the reversing gear and the axle pump is very good too. The
lights are just begging to be made functional.
The tender is another story. He used screws all over the place which
detracts from the appearance a lot. The fit of the sheet metal is a disgrace
compared to the engine. The bright spot here are the trucks which are
tremendous in appearance and function. The hand rail on the tender came
through bent. I straightened it sort of. It's very difficult to handle
without rebending it. No coal load was supplied.
 I have a picture on my home pageat http://home.epix.net/~ppaskos

Operation;

Roof is hinged and makes it easy to get to reversing gear and boiler
filler. The wicks are easily gotten to and are probably too long. I had
trouble with overflow of the wick cups. (my first alkie burner)  Paul Quirk
showed me how to adjust the tube in the alkie tank to stop that. Problem
solved. Gets steam up easily. Cylinders load very easily and needs to be
pushed to clear. (Break In time?) Engine would not keep pressure on the
first 2 runs without keeping a bit of blower on. (Any Suggestions?)  The
third run it seemed to run for a bit without the blower but then lost
pressure. Without the blower it chuffed nicely and gave a nice plume in 80
degree + weather. The third run was made with a 6 car coal hopper load and a
Pennsy(sob) caboose. Come on MTH. I need an Eastern style 1/32 caboose.
Runs were fairly long. I did not time them. The weather at PLS(Pennsylvania
Live Steamers) club was glorius Sunday with low humidty and 80 degrees.

Conclusion:

Overall I like it. It's not perfect and would not be recommended for a
beginner at all. There is no manual on literature supplied . You get the
engine and the handle for the tender pump which is fairly efficent by the
way.

Phil.P. Reading,PA.
 

Re: AccuCraft C-16

[Phil. Paskos]

I think Aster had better start keeping a very sharp eye on  Accucraft.
Everytime Aster announces a new engine with the prices going so high, More
and more people will go Accucraft. And with reports like this, Accucraft may
already be winning the war.

And we are the winners!
Phil.P. Reading,PA.


Subject: RE: AccuCraft C-16


> Okay, Vance, and list, here is my report/opinions of my new C-16:
> Some background:  Almost year and a half a go I first talked to Charlie
and
> Bing at Accucraft to confirm the rumors that they were indeed considering
> producing a live steam version of their electric #42, 2-8-0, C16
(Much snipped)
 

Re: Turn On the Lights

[Phil. Paskos]

Do you have enough room somewhere for a "toolbox" on the front or side of
your engine? They look like they belong and it's easy to open the lid to put
the battery in of your choice.

Phil.P. Reading,PA.



> I would like to add a headlight to one of my live steamers.  Space is
tight
> - I can't fit a AA battery and on/off switch.   A AAA battery would be a
> squeeze and hard to get at. I am looking for a bulb/battery recommendation
> from the list.  For example, would a watch battery work?  How long would
it
> last? Are battery holders available?
>
> There is a good electronic surplus store in Cleveland so I should be able
to
> get small bulbs. All recommendations welcome.
>
> Don
> _
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
 

Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?

[Phil. Paskos]

It still is. Sulfur Springs sells it. It does help as does the angled
painted plate in back of the glass. You know the "barber poll" look.

Phil.P. Reading,Pa.

> At 04:48 PM 5/29/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >Harry et al,
> >I have often wondered why manufacturers dont make the tubing and glass of
> >larger dia
>
> Geoff,
> They do, in every imaginable size.  It's borosilicate glass and it's
> the same thing that's used for laboratory equipment.  Pyrex Red Line is
one
> of the best known and for a while they made it in sizes that could be used
> by live steamers.  They still make gauge glass for all types of full size
> aplications but I don't know if Red Line tube is still made in small
sizes.
>
> Cheers,
> Harry
>
>
 

Re: PLS Memorial Weekend Meet Report

[Phil. Paskos]

Hi All;

The big bummer was the rainiest Saturday anyone ever remembered
at
PLS for their Meet. I mean it rained all day hard. We needed it as it has
been fairly dry here for the last month, ButSunday made up for it as
the smiles returned and the tracks filled with trains. I do mean filled with
trains. Watch the signals and the guy in front! I didn't get a count of the
trains there, but the big turntable was full as were the tracks. And we had
4 main lines of Gauge-1 track running. Those hardy souls stretched a canopy
over the steam up area on the big track and got some running in on Saturday.
The trains got wet, but the operators stayed dry. Well,sort of any way.  I
didn't get an accurate count of the Gauge-1 runners either.

Mike Moore brought his portable track as well as the "big track"  with
some added turnouts for more storage and more convenient turnouts for
getting from inside to outside loop. One more to add and then finish the
special Gauge-1 storage building. That'll be neat because then we'll have
the Quirks nice turntable to use. More train storage area! You can't get
enough. By the big fall meet, where we hope to see a bunch of list regulars,
all should be ready. That one will be Sept1 and 2.  More soon on that one!



Phil.P. Reading,PA.

 

Re: Boiler water level; Rubys and others (very long version)/Whoops dept.

[Phil. Paskos]

Whoops!

I called Kevin Trent.

Sorry Kevin.


Phil.P. Reading,PA.






(text snipped)
> Best regards,
> 
> Kevin
> 
>  
> 
 

Re: Boiler water level; Rubys and others (very long version)

[Phil. Paskos]

  This is a very  good explanation of what happens and should be part of an
FAQ.
Any one who is fortunate enough to be around the larger scales 1" and larger
can observe the water expansion that Kent describes fairly easily as their
glasses are larger and they all have relief valves to get more accurate
water level readings.

Phil.P. Reading,PA.




> Thank you to Harry Wade, Clark Lord, and Jeanne Baer for raising the
"zippy"
> question in the operation of small scale live steam locomotives.  Harry
> originally wrote that in his experience a '' "low water condition produces
> freer steaming thus the locomotive gets "zippier" ".  I agree as far as
his
> observation goes, and I will explain why I think that he is right, but the
> question that I was directly answering was "As a fellow post asked, how do
> you know when to refill the boiler (Ruby) and by how much".  I believe
this
> question and my subsequent answer are congruent and I stand by it.
> (much snipped)
> Best regards,
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
 

Re: CYLINDER PORT FACES

[Phil. Paskos]

In the U.S. Permatex makes a sealer called Ultra Copper that takes high
temperatures and that I've had good results using.
I've found it in hardware and automotive supply stores.


Phil.P. Reading,PA.

> Casey asked:
>
> > 2.  Is there some other goo stuff out there in the market that might
more
> > conveniently/safely be used when fabricating cylinders with separate
port
> > faces?
>

 

Re: Ruby side value success - How about a sight glass?

[Phil. Paskos]

Most sight glasses are solid at the bottom and have a hole through the top
that you drop the glass through. Put an "O" ring on the top of the glass and
then screw in the plug.

Phil.P. Reading,PA.


(snipsnip)
>
> So, does anyone have any thoughts on adding a sight glass to the Ruby?
> I have a goodall valve in mine, but can't judge the amount of water
> well.  Too much and I'm pushing water, not steam, though my cylinders.
> Not as efficient as I'd like. . .
>
> From photos of other live steamers, it seems the upper end could be
> taken at the turret on top of the boiler opposite from where the
> pressure gauge attaches.  That would only require one new penetration
> into the boiler.  There did not seem to be a lot of room for it unless
> it is attached at quite an angle to the right.  If the thickness of the
> backhead at the burner is an indication, could a small hole be drilled
> and tapped directly into the backhead or is a brass fitting required?
> (Brazing in a brass fitting there would be a bit of a chore. . . )  How
> does one attach a glass anyway?  Two connections linked by a solid
> object makes screwing them in impractical.
>
>