[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Another Open Question To Audiophiles With Studio Experience

2008-08-05 Thread jonheal

Well, my last question generated a healthy dose of banter, so I thought
I'd ask another. (Although this is more of a pontification.)

Recently I bought a copy of Propellerhead Reason to see if there's any
chance I can put together some not-completely-sucky music. 

I've also wanted to rig up a modest studio in our guestroom to
produce said music. So I wandered into Guitar Center to listen to and
compare some small, relatively inexpensive monitors, namely:

KRK Rocket 5 Gen 2
M-Audio BX5a Deluxe
Mackie MR5
Yamaha HS50M

Now, these are all supposed to be flat, sterile studio monitors.
Theoretically, shouldn't they all sound the same, or at least VERY
similar? But you know what? They all sounded VASTLY different. As
different as any bunch of similarly-sized hi-fi speakers you might
stick together.

So here's my opinion at this point. There ain't no flat speakers.
There ain't no accurate speakers. You pick the ones that abuse your
particular ears the least and you buy them.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Another Non-Slim Question

2008-08-05 Thread jonheal

Another one for the engineers out there...

I'm researching which Audio Interface to buy. Remember, this is a
modest, BUDGET studio setup I'm talking about here.

There are a ton of devices in the $150-300 range, and I've been doing
enough reading to be leery of all of them for one reason or another. In
the $500 range, suddenly a couple of clear choices jump out: The Apogee
Duet and the MOTU UltraLite Mk2 (soon to be Mk3).

Anyone have an opinion?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Open Question to Audiophiles

2008-07-11 Thread jonheal

Don't know if this has been discussed before, but I'll throw it against
the wall anyway and see if it sticks.

By definition, I would think the average audiophile would be looking
for equipment that reproduces music as accurately as possible.

Again, by definition, it would seem that good studio monitors fulfill
that requirement, in that they are supposed to color the music as little
as possible.

Anyone care to chime in?


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Sb4 ?

2007-06-28 Thread jonheal

Pat Farrell;211498 Wrote: 
 JJZolx wrote:
If the next generation of
  streaming media product released by Logitech were powered by a slick
  Windows-only application, would anyone really be that surprised?
 
 Then I would be as angry as most of your postings.
 
 I use Windoze only when I am paid to do so. 18 years ago, I was a 
 Windows evangelist. I've changed. Windows-only applications are simply
 
 not acceptable to me.
 
 YMMV.
 
 -- 
 Pat
 http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html

I like Windows. They lets in the light!


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Flac or Apple Lossless?

2007-05-13 Thread jonheal

The ONLY reson I can see to choose ALAC over FLAC is if you're going to
abandon the Squeezebox altogether and go with an Apple TV device (which
does have a very slick interface, BTW). But, you'll need a TV next to
it, and some of us still keep our Hi-Fis and home theaters in seperate
rooms.

On a related subject, I hear tell that QuickTime on Leopard will
support FLAC natively.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Cheap tweaks that really work

2007-03-28 Thread jonheal

Skunk;190780 Wrote: 
 Thanks for the correction, and more importantly the new verb to use when
 my girlfriend suggests we use these. I feel bad saying this now, after
 recommending them, but I only tried it once and couldn't stand to let
 it burn more that 20 seconds. Something didn't seem right to me, but
 she thinks they're great!

I thought the ear candling thing was a joke! It's real?!?

In which case, I highly recommend anal candling to help eliminate the
ambient intestinal noise that can detract from your listening
experience after an evening of heavy chili or corn dog consumption.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Cheap tweaks that really work

2007-03-27 Thread jonheal

How about digging those plugs of wax out of one's ears every now and
then? Disgusting, but beneficial.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Cheap tweaks that really work

2007-03-27 Thread jonheal

Skunk;190599 Wrote: 
 Also, remember to eat a balanced breakfast on the day of any serious
 listening.

The signal-to-noise ratio of one's digestive tract the day after chili
or corndogs probably adds more ambient racket to the listening
environment than a the hiss and grunge from a POS mini-hifi from
Target.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] SB3 vs PC as a source

2007-03-22 Thread jonheal

Robin Bowes;189385 Wrote: 
 Bob Bressler wrote:
  Turns out not to even be an option for me. My PC that runs
 SlimServer
  and iTunes is also running Windows XP Media Center Edition. 
  Apparently, hardly anyone in the 'pro' world builds drivers for that
  system.
 
 Bob,
 
 You should be able to use std WinXP drivers on a MCE system.
 
 What version of MCE is it? If it's 2004 or earlier, it's based on XP
 Pro. If it's 2005 or later, it's based on XP Home.
 
 R.

I don't think that's quite accurate. As far as I know, the only major
functionality that was removed from MCE 2005 was the capability to join
a domain. Other XP Pro features remain like IIS, encrypted file system,
administrative shares, etc.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2007-03-02 Thread jonheal


A poll associated with this post was created, to vote and see the
results, please visit http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=19817

Question: Should there be a new forum for photos?

- yes
- no
- maybe


joatca;183138 Wrote: 
 Disclaimer: I'm not an audiophile, plus I'm Scottish and therefore
 cheap.
 
 I have two SBs, an SB2 in the living room and this SB3 in the bedroom,
 hooked up to a venerable old (and rather beat-up) NAD 3020 that I
 picked up on eBay. It came with the original pre-amp-out-to-normal-in
 jumper cables missing and replaced with a regular 6-foot RCA cable. I
 had a local store make me a pair of three-inch jumpers from Monster
 cable. Anyone know how much a 3020 cost brand-new?
 
 The NAD drives a pair of Mission 762i speakers, also from eBay. Total
 cost, with shipping, $120 for the amp and $160 for the speakers (not
 counting the stands, of course). It sounds better than anything I've
 ever owned, even when playing MP3.
 
 At one point I had a bunch of video stuff in this room too (there's a
 TV on the wall above it), and swapped out the NAD for a huge Yamaha
 RX-V800 that I picked up for $500 just to get remote volume control and
 video switching, and connected the SB by optical. Our main living room
 amp just died so I'm pulling the Yamaha out to replace it, and the old
 NAD is back in the bedroom. (One reason why it looks so tidy... I took
 a picture as soon as I finished putting it together.)
 
 You know what? The $100 NAD connected RCA sounds better than the $500
 (list $900) Yamaha does by optical. I'm sure that none of you are
 surprised.
 
 The little wireless headphones are connected directly to the SB and are
 another eBay special, $20. Useless for music, but fine for listening to
 the BBC World Service when my wife is asleep.
 
 Like I said, I'm cheap, but suggestions to improve the sound welcomed.
 Cheap ones, that is... :-)

I bought a 3020 when they first came out ages ago, but I'll be darned
if I can remember how much I paid for it! It must have been in the $500
range ... I couldn't have afforded much more than that.


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] CD Treatments?

2007-02-22 Thread jonheal

It seems to me that anything between the layer of pitted metal and the
laser (including the plastic of the disc itself) is a potential
obstruction. How can adding another layer/film/smear of anything, DO
anything but further reduce transparency?

Unless, maybe it was some kind of self-leveling compound that filled in
pits and scratchs and what not.


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] CD Treatments?

2007-02-22 Thread jonheal

On a related note, has anyone tried polishing a scratched CD with
Brasso? I saw a web site where a guy got good results polishing the
scratches off of his iPod Nano with Brasso.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Any one tried isolating feet on their SB ?

2007-01-31 Thread jonheal

I suspend mine over a high-pressure cushion of air. Of course I have to
turn the volume way up to drown out the roar of the blower.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: ok, may be i am just crazy, but how can i be so lucky

2007-01-18 Thread jonheal

andyg;171627 Wrote: 
 OK so I'm not an audiophile by any means, but if you would agree that
 the bits are the same, then I can't really continue this discussion. ;)

I'm afraid that in the universe of audiophilia, bits are not
necessarily bits. You can make up your own reality here. It's like, you
know, a New Age religion, but with better treble response.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] A Cut-Rate Audiophile ’s Experience With a Linear Power Supply

2007-01-17 Thread jonheal

I like to think of myself as an audiophile (at least with a small “a”).
I appreciate good music, and I like hearing it well-produced. My system
is far from high-end, and while it sounds good to me, I’ve heard
better.

However, I have a shortcoming that I feared might derail my application
for full membership into Audophilia: I’m sure I can detect some of the
more subtle differences between things that others claim. I don’t have
the money or inclination to buy several sets of esoteric interconnects
to test my abilities in that arena, but the switching vs. linear power
supply debate seemed like a doable experiment.

Several months ago I picked up a couple of encased 5v linear power
supplies* on eBay. Yesterday, I finally got around to hooking one up.

THE TEST

I’ll tell you right off the bat that initially, I couldn’t tell any
difference between the two. An “A/B” comparison is difficult because it
takes 10-15 seconds for the SB3 to reboot when you withdraw one power
supply and plug in another. But I persevered. I picked a tune with
which I am very familiar, and listened to 30 or seconds of it over and
over at a fairly loud volume over headphones. Then I switched back and
forth between the two supplies, looking for any small differences.

After a while, I felt like the music sounded a bit warmer, perhaps with
meatier mid-bass powered by the linear supply. “Ss,” also, seemed to
have less sibilance. Perhaps the overall presentation had less
graininess and more depth. Or, the whole thing might have been my
imagination. (My stereo also sounds better after I’ve dusted it.)

So, I asked my wife to assist me with the test. She finds this stuff
rather tedious, but she’s a pal, so she went along with the process.

This time, I listened over my speakers. I asked her not to try to trick
me, but to simply switch one supply out for the other without telling me
which was which. I listened to 30 seconds, or so, of music at a time,
while my wife alternated power supplies. I listened to each supply five
times. I closed my eyes and held my ears (so I couldn’t hear the cord
rustle – which would have been a clue) while she switched supplies. I
had no idea which supply she started or ended with. But again, I
thought I detected subtle differences – less graininess, perhaps more
precise imaging with one supply over the other. After the tenth
listening, I pronounced judgment. “That’s the new power supply,” I
said. And I was …

Wrong.

Well, this was a bit of a blow to my ego. My ears, I guess, are not so
golden after all. I don’t think they’re tin, but maybe … aluminum?
Perhaps my system is not of sufficient caliber to resolve the
differences? Or maybe this kind of stuff really is in the realm of
imagination.

To put things in perspective, on the “Back page” of the December 2006
issue of -he Abso!ute Sound-, Ted Denney, Lead Designer/Owner of
Synergistic Research (maker of cables) is interviewed. In the course of
the interview, he states (regarding cables), and I paraphrase, that if
you can’t hear the difference, then how can you hear the difference
between speakers?

Well I’m sorry, but the audible differences detectable between two sets
of loudspeakers, verses two sets of cables (or power supplies) is nearly
astronomical in magnitude. Very red apples verses very orange oranges.

* I “think” it’s a linear power supply. It’s big and it gets warm. I
have no idea as to its internal quality.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A Cut-Rate Audio phile’s Experience With a Linear Power Supply

2007-01-17 Thread jonheal

ron thigpen;171255 Wrote: 
 jonheal wrote:
 
  This time, I listened over my speakers. I asked her not to try to
 trick
  me, but to simply switch one supply out for the other without telling
 me
  which was which. 
 
 A Question:  When your wife was swapping out the PS, was she unplugging
 
 them from the wall or just at the SB?
 
 The reason I ask is that if the switcher were still plugged into the 
 wall, and the predominant audible effect of the switcher is due to EMI
 
 (see John Swenson's post), then it could be that your test didn't 
 properly control for the principle causal factor.
 
 --rt
No, the wall wart was left plugged in, so -if- EMI produces audible
artifacts, than yes, they would have still been present.

The point I came away from the experiment was that everything sounded
fine and wonderful while being powered by EITHER supply. I detected no
additional noise, hum, grate, scratching, buzzing -- non-music, in
other words.

What I -thought- I could detect, I could not, with reliability,
attribute to one supply or the other.

As, I stated before, I have no information as to the quality of the
linear supply I was using. All I can say is that I could not reliably
pick which one sounded better, or worse.

I know some people are down on A/B testing, and that's fine, but the
fact of the matter is that it is the only way to (rationally) determine
for yourself if something sounds different -- and you need someone else
to do the switching -- the power of suggestion is just too, well,
powerful!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Carver M-400t -- 220v plug into 120v?

2006-12-22 Thread jonheal

jmourik;164304 Wrote: 
 I'm the proud owner of a Carver M400t amp, have had it for probably 15
 years or more! Cute little thing, though I must admit back then I
 really liked the Yamaha version too, the little pyramid...
 
 I bought the m400t in the Netherlands, and as such the sticker on the
 back says 220~250 Volt 50 Cycle ABC 8 fuse only. But it has the
 American style ac connector. So I'm wondering, can I plug this thing
 straight into 110V here? What would happen?
 
 Thanks guys!
 
 jan
 
 Oh, the tie-in to SB? I want to use it in my bedroom with the SB2
 driving BW in-wall speakers...
What's the worst that can happen ... a little fire/explosion?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Noise Floor on SqueezeBox 3 - Normal?

2006-12-15 Thread jonheal

tomjtx;162751 Wrote: 
 Some people think the sock wall wart generates a lot of noise. Plug it
 into a power conditioner and you should reduce the noise and inprove
 the sound.
 For more improvement buy a linear regulated power supply, perhaps
 modded by Bolder Cable if your in the U.S.

I added one of those ferrite thingies to the stock power supply cord.
Not sure if it does anything, and it may be along the lines of wearing
an aluminum foil pyramid on my head.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: 320kbps -- too much?

2006-12-13 Thread jonheal

highdudgeon;162247 Wrote: 
 That's what I thought -- I've played uncompressed files I  don't know
 how many times.  Possibly a neighbor's network is interfering?  I
 wasn't even on the web -- I was cooking dinner with the kids when it
 happened.

With the microwave?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Question about Spouses?

2006-12-12 Thread jonheal

1. My wife bought me my Squeezebox for Christmas last year.
2. She put up with me spending beaucoup hours ripping our CD
collection.
3. She put's up with my endless tweaking of the system.
4. She let me rearrange the living room to try to find the best place
for the speakers.
5. She let's me listen to whatever I want as loud as I want (although
she turns it down if I leave the room).

My wife scores 100 in HAF.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Cable burn-in, does this work?

2006-12-03 Thread jonheal

Cable burn-in sounds like a classic case of audiophile voodoo to me, but
I would submit that running electricity through a wire does change it
over time. I've been doing a lot of electrical fixes in our 40-year-old
house. The copper in the romex is very brittle. I can snap off bits of
it with the pliers pretty easily. Now it may be that the copper is
oxidized, although that seems unlikely to me as it's jacketed.

And of course, a 120V @ 15 amps gusher of electrons is a little
different than the trickle passing between your SB and amp, or between
the amp and speakers, for that matter.

But then our telephone wiring is brittle, too.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: There must be a better way for this forum to operate.

2006-11-28 Thread jonheal

Really folks, I think several of you just need to let go. Clearly, no
one's going to get the last word in, and at this point, all you're
doing is pouring salt into wounds and contributing to the build up of
your own stomach acid.

We're all imperfect creatures. We all have quirks and annoying traits.
And generally, those traites we find most annoying in others are those
that we ourselves possess.

Why don't we draw a line in the sand and move forward on a positive
note. Frankly, if everyone turned the other cheek a little more often
instead of sniping back, the world would be a hell of a lot more
pleasant to live in.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: There must be a better way for this forum to operate.

2006-11-28 Thread jonheal

ModelCitizen;158068 Wrote: 
 Yup, I'll second that.
 MC

Are you commenting on your similar traits or just agreeing with me that
I'm a dick?

:-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Looking for advice

2006-11-15 Thread jonheal

Mark Lanctot;154969 Wrote: 
 You could also use passive attenuators and go from the SB3 direct to the
 amp.
 
 Sean recommends passive attenuators, and I believe they aren't that
 expensive.
 
 You need something should the SB3 catastrophically fail and send out
 white noise at 100% power.  This is possible and was infrequently
 reported about 6 months or more ago - it was referred to as the white
 noise of death.  Although it occurred a few times, there were no
 reports of blown speakers, but the possibility is there.  Strangely,
 the reports of the white noise of death appear to have ceased.

Regarding the WOD, I'm still on 6.3.1 (and have no need to upgade at
the moment), but occasionally, I'll get a burp of what sounds like
white noise to me when the SB transitions from a FLAC to a 128k mp3 in
a playlist. Just a burp, but it scares the crap out of me when it
happens. Makes the cat jump, too!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Speakers for Conservatory

2006-11-14 Thread jonheal

Andyoz;154661 Wrote: 
 For me it's a case of NO grilles and a 2 year old toddler in the house.
 
 NO WAY!!
 
 I just don't get the logic to that one, at least cover the woofer with
 something?
 
 p.s. Did you get the Audioengines from Progressive...how much?

REAL audiophiles kill and eat their children to cut down on the ambient
noise in the listening room.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Speakers for Conservatory

2006-11-13 Thread jonheal

What about these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16836136102


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Better sound with digital out. Why?

2006-11-08 Thread jonheal

beerbunny;153446 Wrote: 
 I'm running FLAC through a Squeezebox 2 into a pair of Paradigm
 Reference 100 V.2 speakers. I don't understand why I get vastly
 different sound depending on my hookup. For good sound I run the SB2
 into my Yamaha R-V1105 via the digital optical output. The Yamaha
 serves as a preamp and I run RCA cables from the Yamaha into my NAD
 S200. If I want to wash out the bass I skip the preamp and run RCA
 cables directly from my SB2 into the NAD S200. I've also tried RCA out
 of the SB2 into the Yamaha with the same lousy result. I see the
 transporter as my next step up because I can run balanced inputs from
 the transporter directly to my NAD. However, I'm worried that after I
 spend the money, I'll get the same washed out bass that the direct RCA
 approach is giving me. What am I missing?

I believe this has been covered elsewhere. The theory is that many
consumer-level components convert analog to digital internally
whether you want them to or not because it's easier and cheaper to
process a signal (volume, tone, etc.) when it's digital rather than
analog.

So, when you connect your SB to your receiver with an analog cable, you
are potentially converting digital to analog on the SB, then analog to
digital at the preamp stage of the receiver and then digital to analog
again at the output stage.

That's a lot of converting, and maybe its munging things.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Logitech

2006-10-23 Thread jonheal

325xi;148977 Wrote: 
 I have serious doubts about Transporter fate. Logitech is mass market
 company. Yes, it sells expensive keyboards, but they are expensive
 mass-market keyboards. Logitech sells nothing for truly hi end narrow
 enthusiast market. I hope Transporter line won't be dropped because
 it's not profitable enough (and it will never be).
 
 Another thing is possible degradation. I don't think SB was originally
 designed with audiophiles in mind. It happened to be very good design
 that in digital domain meets audiophile needs - and thanks God it
 happened! Because it's made by enthusiasts. Now go ahead and design the
 next version with only look and price point in mind - the way virtually
 all those crappy portable players are designed... Throw inside some new
 flashy features to make appealing to teens and create enormous jitter,
 make everything reclocked to 48kHz - and you're done!
People are making the assumption that Slim Devices will lose its
identity in the purchace, and that the Squeezebox (and Transporter)
will be rebranded with the Logitech logo, losing their mystique, if
nothing else.

I haven't read all the posts from Slim and Logitech, but I don't think
its been made clear exactly how Sean and company will operate. They may
continue as a wholly-owned subsidiary, and basically function as-is.
The boxes still may may sport a SlimDevices logo. One has to assume
that Logitech would want to maximise sales, and if sales would slip
with the loss of branding, why would they rebrand?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: SB2 as Preamp?

2006-10-13 Thread jonheal

As long as the White Noise of Death bug is truly squashed, you should
be fine.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: The Sooloos

2006-10-11 Thread jonheal

seanadams;145337 Wrote: 
 You know, that's actually a pretty interesting idea...
I'd be happy with a Slim's standard remote if it just had learning
capabilities.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: The Sooloos

2006-10-10 Thread jonheal

Yannzola;144799 Wrote: 
 Agreed on both counts.
Hot model, alright, but the stupidest product name ever.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Dist-ed FLACs. Whatta do?

2006-09-13 Thread jonheal

Robin Bowes;135453 Wrote: 
 vsu wrote:
  andy_c;135047 Wrote: 
  In EAC options, Normalize tab, did you check Normalize?  This
 should
  not be checked.
  
  It is not checked...
 
 Ok, I've got the file and am listening now. It sounds Ok to me.
 
 You've not got bit-rate limiting turned on have you? (if you have,
 slimserver will be transcoding to mp3 on-the-fly)
 
 R.
Maybe the output level from the Squeezebox is so high, you're
overloading your preamp. Does the distortion go away when you turn down
the volume on the Squeezebox?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Tried the 63.0 (mute) attenuation thing........

2006-08-28 Thread jonheal

P Floding;131720 Wrote: 
 Well, I think we all know about the placebo effect.
 The reason I asked if the CEO knew something was to find out if you had
 actually done the scientific experiment, or not. Or are you just
 assuming it can't be true? One common fallacy is to write off
 everything as placebo because one can't be bothered to investigate
 further. Personally I keep an open mind until the experiment has been
 done.
 
 BTW, is the performance of the Transporter based on the placebo effect
 too?

You're gaining the reputation as the biggest crackpot on the forums ...
and I mean that as affectionately as possible. :-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: S/PDIF sounds poor

2006-08-13 Thread jonheal

P Floding Wrote: 
 Stop spamming interesting threads with your irrelevant and long-winded
 religous beliefs.
You sir, are rude.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Denon DRA-395

2006-06-09 Thread jonheal

For those wondering about making b-stock purchaces, I have some
first-hand experience to relate.

I went ahead and purchased a DENON DRA-395 from SecondAct.biz, one of
DENON's authorized distributors of b-stock and reconditioned items.
Mine was b-stock, which means it could have been a dealer demo, or a
returned item, etc. It included a disclaimer about possible dings,
scratches, etc.

I really hesitated on that last point before I clicked the Purchase
button, because I hate scratched stuff. (The instant I took my wife's
iPod Nano out of the box, I stuffed it in a hard plastic case.) But, I
clenched my teeth and clicked the button anyway. While the receiver was
in transit, I kept telling myself that even if it was a little scratched
up, so what. I saved $150.00 over the purchase of a new unit, and
really, wasn't I being a little neurotic about scratches?

When it arrived a few days later, I was greeted with a stamped warning
on the box, This unit may be scratched, dented ..., etc. I opened the
box. At first glance, it looked okay. Then I noticed a large crack
running about a third of the way across the front panel. I also noticed
that the front left foot was not sitting level. But it worked. Get used
to it! I told myself, It works. It's fine!

But of course I couldn't get used to it. So I decided to take it apart
to see if I could at least lessen the obviousness of the damage. Once I
got the top and the fornt panel off, I could see that the receiver was
probably dropped on the front left corner, which bent the chassis and
kinked the foot at an odd angle. The bent chassis stressed the front
panel where it connects to the chassis, causing the crack.

I got out two pairs of Vise Grips and applied some Neanderthal metal
working to the chassis in an attempt to straighten it out. I would say
that I got it about 60% back to where it should have been. Enough to
destress the front panel so that the crack closed. The front left foot
still sat a little crooked, but it was improved. That looks better! I
said to myself, I can live with that!

But of course, I couldn't. So a few days later, I tracked down a
replacement chassis and front panel for $50.00 at Partstore.com. This
weekend I'll dissassemble the receiver again to replace the parts.

Well ... I still saved $100.00.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Slim Devices NAS Device

2006-06-07 Thread jonheal


A poll associated with this post was created, to vote and see the
results, please visit http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=24534

Question: What do you think about the new SD NAS device?

- Awesome! Where can I get one?
- Nice. I'll put that on my wish list.
- Not for me, but it sure is pretty.
- Lame idea. Have the SD folks lost their minds?


I suppose RAID is nifty, but I paid 75 bucks for a Linksys NSLU2, $80
for two really nice external cases, and $160 for two Seagate 160GB
drives (one drive is a mirror backup of the other).

Total: $335

Of course, I still have a PC running somwhere in the house to run
Slimserver.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Final Vinyl

2006-06-07 Thread jonheal

Does anyone have any information about the quality of this product? It's
a recording app for OS X that Griffin Technology gives away. I am mostly
wondering about its RIAA equalization, which it does though DSP,
apparently.

Not that I am that much of an audiophile, anyway. So it won't do you
too much good to recommend an escoteric tube preamp in its stead --
I've got other things to spend on right now. :-)

I'm just curious as to whether it would equal or better the phono stage
of my halfway decent Denon receiver.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Advice please

2006-05-19 Thread jonheal

I apologize if I sound rude, but these topics have been covered numerous
times. Please use the forum's search function. I'm sure you'll find lots
and lots of commentary.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Denon DRA-395

2006-05-16 Thread jonheal

joncourage Wrote: 
 have you considered the Outlaw rr250?
I did consider that one -- and if someone gave me one for Christmas --
I'd keep it! But it's perpetually (and bizarrely) on backorder.

Anyway, I feel guilty about spending money on stereo stuff right now. I
can get a B-stock Denon for about $200.00, which almost falls beneath my
guilt threshold.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Denon DRA-395

2006-05-15 Thread jonheal

I'm sure this unit hardly qualifies as audiophile to some, but I was
wondering if anyone has any feedback on this particular item. Right
now, I'm using ADCOM components that are nearing 20 years in age. From
time-to-time, I get noise due to aging mechanical contacts in the
source switch.

By moving to a more modern unit, I'll gain two things:

- A remote control for volume
- A subwoofer pre-amp-level jack

Thanks in advance for the input.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Denon DRA-395

2006-05-15 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 I like the fact that it's stereo :-) Here's a nice review:
 http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/frr.pl?ramps1080742540openflup114#11
 
 The last reply was interesting, comparing the Denon to some older
 receivers.
Yeah, I saw that one. At this point, I'm willing to sacrifice a little
possible esoteric sonic superiority for convenience and a subwoofer out
jack.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Denon DRA-395

2006-05-15 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Here was my sub out jack when using the Sonic Impact t-amp:
 http://forums.slimdevices.com/showpost.php?p=105051postcount=17
 
 I figure it's about as non-audiophile as you can get! It seemed to work
 ok with the sub level being controlled by SB remote, but I'm sure the
 DENON would be more ideal.
 
 You can borrow my Sonic Impact, if you're curious. It would only cost
 about $1.75 to ship it to you. Your speakers may be too manly for it
 though :-)
Ye olde y-connectors...

Unfortunately, the sub I'll most likely get has a mono input, which
means I need to join the channels in some other fashion than simply
using a y-connector. Ys are good for splitting, not so good for
joining.

I forgot to mention one other plus for the new receiver -- it has one
of those electronic volume controls -- you know, the kind with the knob
that turns infinitely. Right now, my boys sometimes fiddle with the
volume knob when the stereo is off. I have to remember to always check
its position before I turn the unit on, lest I be showered with speaker
fragments.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Denon DRA-395

2006-05-15 Thread jonheal

Phil Leigh Wrote: 
 ? - I'd have said that y's are good for joining (especially in this
 case) - they are less good for splitting - especially if the two pieces
 of equipment have different impedance characteristics etc...they'll
 interact in subtle ways...you really need some kind of a pad (active or
 passive) to buffer each item when splitting...
 
 used Y's in the studio a lot for joining (usually as in your case to
 make a stereo signal into mono) - I'd never use them for splitting...
Well, I'm not an audio engineer, but from everything I've read and
heard from folks who know more than me (like my EE friends), joining
stereo signals with a Y is a bad idea because one channel ends up
trying to drive the other when their levels are not identical (i.e.
always). Here's a reference:

http://rane.info/note109.html


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Cooking the Squeezebox

2006-05-05 Thread jonheal

Patrick Dixon Wrote: 
 The SB will only draw what it needs, so the excess current -capacity-
 isn't a problem.  Excess voltage is however ...
If for some reason you had a short in your Squeezebox, wouldn't
excessive current possibly cause things going to go poof?

For a reference, take a pair pliers, open them up and touch metal
handles to the two terminals of your car battery.

I know, it's kind of an absurd analogy, except that I think I've heard
of people powering their hi-fi with a car baterry.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: SqueezePower final design Power supply

2006-04-24 Thread jonheal

Mike Anderson Wrote: 
 OK, but is it bulletproof?  I need mine to be bulletproof.
Does your significant other hate your choice of music -that- much?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Is FLAC bit perfect decoded on SB3

2006-04-21 Thread jonheal

dlite Wrote: 
 Also when the flac file is transmitted either wirelessly or via ethernet
 cable, do network protocols ensure the file is bit perfect when it
 reaches the SB3?

That's ensured by the TCP part of TCP/IP.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Environmentally Friendly 5V PSU?

2006-04-17 Thread jonheal

ChrisOwens Wrote: 
 I just had to do the math on this one.
 
 He had 500 lbs of potatoes, and out of that he was getting 5v at 4ma.
 
 The SB3 power supply puts out 5v at 2a (2000ma).
 
 2000ma / 4ma = 500
 
 So to power an SB3 on potatoes, you'd have to wire together
 
 500lbs * 500 = 250,000 lbs (113,400 kilos) of potatoes
 
 Add to that the warning at the bottom of his page: Don't eat potatoes
 after using them for a battery.
 
 On the other hand, if it cuts down on jitter and increases the clarity
 and openness of the sound... :)
I think Yukon Gold potatoes taste, I mean SOUND the best. And low-fat
sour cream definitely clouds the sound stage. Use the real stuff if you
care anything about openess, transparency and clarity. It was like a
veil being lifted when I moved to real sour cream in my system.
Butter's not too bad either.

Cheddar and bacon bits on the other hand... Well, you might as well be
listening to a tin can on the end of a string.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Poor listening environment, any point upgrading?

2006-04-04 Thread jonheal

I'm afraid you're just going to have to move. ;-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: SB3 Breakin?

2006-03-20 Thread jonheal

Since solid-state electronic break-in is completely unquantifiable,
and whatever positive effects experienced as a result thereof, locked
within the impenetrable mind of the true audiophile, I offer the
suggestion that perhaps what is being heard is the audiophile's mind
slowly justifying throwing another pile of cash at one's hobby, rather
than toward one's child's college education.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-15 Thread jonheal

cliveb Wrote: 
 I don't know of a program off-hand that will crop LSBs and redither, but
 last night I did some casual tests using an audio editor. I had a
 recording of a vinyl record in a 16bit 44.1kHz WAV file on disk, and
 extracted a short section from it to play with. What I did was apply an
 amplitude reduction (in order to truncate LSBs), then re-normalised it
 to bring the level back up and thus pull the quantisation noise up to a
 much higher level. This in effect truncates the LSBs *without
 re-dithering*, so any effects should be even more audible. The results
 were:
 
 1. Reduce then increase amplitude by 36dB, effectively truncating the
 bottom 6 bits. This is the 60dB test. The raised quantisation noise
 was very clearly audible, and completely unacceptable, which suggests
 to me that, although the dynamic range of the LP is probably less than
 60dB, one cannot afford to be cavalier and chuck away 6 bits of
 resolution when recording.
 
 2. Reduce then increase amplitude by 24dB, effectively truncating the
 bottom 4 bits. It was very difficult to detect a significant difference
 after applying this change. I felt that maybe the noise was changed
 slightly, but never detected that characteristic y-ness of
 digital quantisation noise. Perhaps better headphones would have
 revealed a more obvious difference.
 
 3. Reduce then increase by 18dB, effectively truncating the bottom 3
 bits. No audible difference. This was no surprise: the surface noise on
 a vinyl LP is so high that it effectively self-dithers the recording
 at around the 12-13 bit level. So if you have a decent soundcard with a
 noise floor below -90dB, it's safe to record at peak levels as low as
 -12dB then normalise.
 
 Bear in mind this was a casual, sighted test.
 The equipment used was:
 Linn Sondek LP12/Lingo/Ittok/Karma
 Naim 42.5K used as phono preamp
 M-Audio Audiophile 2496 soundcard
 Home built headphone amp
 Sennheiser HD535 headphones
Clive,

Since I'm not a recording engineer, and I don't know a least
significant bit from a hole in the ground, please confirm that that my
simple English description conforms to what you have said:

1. Record LP with peaks no higher than -12db. (The meters in Sound
Forge hold their highest value, so this should be easy to do with a
couple of passes.)

2. Normalize

Correct?

I'm going into a Audiophile 2496, too.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-15 Thread jonheal

P Floding Wrote: 
 It doesn't matter if the Naim pre is better than average if the rest of
 the system can't resolve differences.
 
 Stating that 16/44 can capture everything that comes off LP is not
 all that clever, given that we know for a fact that frequencies above
 20kHz can exist on LP.
Yeah, but who the heck can hear *that* under normal listening
situations?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-15 Thread jonheal

This is turning into quite the little pissing contest.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-07 Thread jonheal

Ralph,

Robin's suggestion of a ripping service is a good option because
transferring vinyl to digital (or CDs) is, if not a labor of love,
definitely a labor, depending on the level of your anal retentiveness.

I've done three LPs myself. I used a semi-cheapo 20-year-old Technics
linear tracking turntable, a middling Audio-Technica Cartridge routed
through the phono preamp on my ADCOM GTP-400, and into an M-Audio
Audiophile 2496 soundcard.

I recorded using Sonic Foundry Sound Forge, and I ripped the CDs using
Cakewalk Pyro.

All told I spent six to nine hours per LP.

First, I had to play the albums through several times to try to set the
recording llevel as high as possible without clipping. Sound Forge's
recording meters mark their highest levels, so I would start the LP
recording, walk away for 20 minutes until a side was finished and have
a look at the meters. If the highest level marked on the meters was
less than clipping, I'd increase the recording level a bit and repeat
the process. It usually took three or four attempts before I felt I had
eeked as much level out of the recording as possible.

Then I'd split the file into tracks and carefully fade the beginnings
and endings to eliminate the hiss, clicks and rumble between tracks.

In Pyro, I would use its filters to reduce hiss and pops and clicks in
the tracks themselves. This too, was a trial and error process. Too
much filtering, and the music was audibly degraded.

As you can see, it can be a lot of work.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-07 Thread jonheal

tom permutt Wrote: 
 Besides the good suggestions here, you will want to look at
 http://www.delback.co.uk/lp-cdr.htm which gives a pretty complete
 overview of your options.
 
 The one thing that surprises me a little in the discussion is the
 concern about recording levels.  This is a part of the ritual for those
 of us who have been recording since tape days, especially cassette, but
 it was because the dynamic range of the cassettes was at best
 comparable to that of the records, so you had to be careful to use all
 of it.  I think it might be vestigial with the much bigger range of CD
 recording.  I find that if I just use the same level with plenty of
 headroom for all discs, the noise from the records still swamps
 anything added in the transfer.
 
 For what it's worth, I use a Sony component CD recorder/player.  It has
 no hard drive and not much memory, so it records directly onto CDs in
 real time.  This may have been a cost-effective compromise a very few
 years ago, but it's kind of silly now.  It's very sensitive to
 vibration and even, it seems, to the brand of media; and when it fails,
 it does so in a frustrating way:  it usually doesn't give any indication
 of failure until you finish the track, which for me is a side of an LP.
I believe you WILL clip the ADC if you record analog at too high of a
level, and it'll be nasty digital clipping.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Ripping Vinyl

2006-03-07 Thread jonheal

tom permutt Wrote: 
 I quite agree, having the level too high is hideous.  I meant, I think
 you can have it _low_ enough never to be too high, without worrying
 that it will be too low.
Yeah, I see what you mean. The noise on the LP will stay relative to
the music content, regardless.

As long as you employ ReplayGain, your LP rips won't suddenly sound
like whispers against your CD rips on the SqueezeBox.

(My three LP rips all sound much quieter than commercial CDs.)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: What Amp and Speakers Are You Using?

2006-03-01 Thread jonheal

PSB Stratus Bronze speakers
ADCOM GFA-525 Amplifier
Home-assembled speaker cables


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Linear Power Supply DIY Weekend Project

2006-02-27 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Hi there.
 
 Are you assuming the bottom of that PS is smooth? It's not. 
 
 FWIW, the smooth side of mine is against a sheet of copper, which
 itself is against the outside of the case. Crooners looks to be bolted
 to his aluminum case. 
 
 Did you also not see the plethora of vent holes in mine, and read that
 crooner is planning on drilling some (although in the bottom??); or did
 you just feel like saying *something*.
Down, boy! ;-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Some Interesting Classical Discs

2006-02-26 Thread jonheal

I stumbled across a little find at Price Club (Costco). RCA has
contracted a company called Soundmirror to remaster some or their
famous Living Stereo recordings from the 50's and early 60's. The
original recording techniques and the process used to remaster them are
detailed in the liner notes, so I won't repeat that information here,
but suffice it to say that for 50-year-old recordings, they sound
amazing.

These are hybrid SACD/CD discs.

Price Club is selling them for $7.49! Check it out if you live near
one.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-25 Thread jonheal

mamsterla Wrote: 
 Hey, I am also SoCal.  Westside these days - born in SFV.
 
 Anyway, one thing you can do to change Neanderthal soldering techniques
 would be to go out and reward yourself with a good temperature
 controlled soldering iron.  I like the Hakko 936 - as a bonus, it is
 sold at Fry's pretty cheaply.
I live in Northern Virgina/suburban Washington DC these days, which is
pretty much the polar opposite of Southern California in every way,
shape and form.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-24 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 This sounds reasonable.  The long rows of connected holes are typically
 meant for power and/or ground.  It's too bad that there aren't three of
 them...
 
 That probably won't cause problems, since audio frequency circuits
 really aren't that sensitive to wire lengths.  On the other hand, I
 like to make my connections as short as possible anyway.  One thing to
 be avoided is making large loops formed between your signal wire and
 your ground.  Those can pick up electromagnetic interference, for
 instance from your power supply or fluorescent lights.
 
 
 It is for avoiding shorts.  Shorts suck.
 
 You can imagine that your power distribution is like a plumbing system.
 Voltage is like pressure, and current is like flow.  The power supply
 is like a pump that is trying to pressurize the pipes to a fixed level.
 It has a maximum flow that it can generate before it can't keep up and
 the pressure starts to drop.  The capacitors are like big water tanks
 that fill up to a certain level due to the pressure coming from the
 pump.  Once filled, they can provide extra water flow when the pump
 can't keep up.  The pressure of the water at the outlet of the tank is
 a function of the height of the water inside the tank.
 
 A small valued capacitor is like a skinny tank.  It will fill up to the
 same height as a wide tank, but it will drain faster and therefore the
 pressure will drop faster.  A large valued capacitor is like a wide
 tank.  It takes a longer time to drain, so it can maintain the pressure
 in the pipes without the pump for a long time.
I guess I owe you for Basic Electronics 101! ;-)

Below is the layout for the circuit board. I moved things around to get
the film capacitors on the same copper pad as the pins of the IC as you
suggested. Do you see any egregious errors? In this illustration, the
copper pads are on the bottom of the board and all components and
jumpers are on top of the board.


+---+
|Filename: layout.gif   |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=942|
+---+

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-24 Thread jonheal

Robin Bowes Wrote: 
 jonheal said the following on 02/24/2006 12:45 PM:
 
  Below is the layout for the circuit board. I moved things around to
 get
  the film capacitors on the same copper pad as the pins of the IC as
 you
  suggested. Do you see any egregious errors? In this illustration,
 the
  copper pads are on the bottom of the board and all components and
  jumpers are on top of the board.
  
  
 
 +---+
  |Filename: layout.gif  
 |
  |Download:
 http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=942|
 
 +---+
 
 Out of interest, what did you use to produce that diagram?
 
 R.
Adobe Illustrator. A tool from my previous life as a graphic designer.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-24 Thread jonheal

Robin Bowes Wrote: 
 jonheal said the following on 02/24/2006 12:45 PM:
 
  Below is the layout for the circuit board. I moved things around to
 get
  the film capacitors on the same copper pad as the pins of the IC as
 you
  suggested. Do you see any egregious errors? In this illustration,
 the
  copper pads are on the bottom of the board and all components and
  jumpers are on top of the board.
  
  
 
 +---+
  |Filename: layout.gif  
 |
  |Download:
 http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=942|
 
 +---+
 
 Out of interest, what did you use to produce that diagram?
 
 R.
By the way, I use your ReplayGain Perl script. Love it. I also enjoyed
poking around your web site, although I think your photo albums are
currently busted.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-24 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 Hi Jon,
 
 The one change I would make is to eliminate the big loop that goes
 around the world from pin 2 (op-amp output) to pin 6 (op-amp -in). 
 Just run a short wire between the two pins on the bottom side of the
 board.
 
 Another suggestion: get an 8-pin DIP socket for the op-amp so that you
 can remove it.  That way you can replace it if it gets fried, or
 experiment with other op-amp models if you feel like doing so.
 
 By the way, did you know that I'm Robin's evil twin?  We both write the
 same perl scripts and don't tell each other what we've done ;)
John,

I was planning on using the DIP socket. I figured I'd probably barbeque
the chip itself with my Neanderthal soldering technique. I don't know
how I'll keep the glops from running together as it is.

So you've got a ReplayGain script? It's all very confusing. 

I poked around your web site, too. I'm from your Southern California
neck of the woods. I attended Cal Poly, Pomona many moons ago. There
used to be a really good record store in Claremont, the name of which I
can't remember. I'm not sure if it was there when you were at Harvey
Mudd, or not, but since you have a lot of vinyl, I thought you might
know about it. The Pomona Valley area has changed DRASTICALLY in the
last 25 years.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Where is the incredible sound?

2006-02-23 Thread jonheal

Zacko Wrote: 
 I started all this, and it went somewhere I couldn't follow anymore.
 It's har for me to understand that the powersupply could make any
 difference but in this room it seems to be so many intelligent people
 so I go for it.
 So I sum it up:
 
 1) New power supply. Stabilized, around $25 in Sweden.
 2) New Amp with digital line in. Any suggestions? Don't want to spend
 more than $650.
 3) New cables. Could do that.
 4) Go Flac. Don't think so. What about Apples lossless?
 5) New hardware equalizer. Don´t want to have another box on top of all
 the others.
 
 Did I miss something?
 
 Best regards
 
 Mats
How about giving up and going back to iTunes.

It seems that you are looking for a sound that is emphasized at certain
points across the spectrum. Sorry, but unequalized, the SqueezeBox just
ain't gonna do it for you. It's built to be flat. If you're not willing
to add an equalizer, I'm afraid there's not much anyone can do for you.

Cut your losses, sell it on eBay. You'll get a taker.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-22 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 1) The grounds should all be tied together, preferably at the same
 point.
 
 2) For short connections, I trim a piece of the resistor leads to
 bridge between the connection points.  You can bridge with just solder,
 but I feel like having the wire in there is a more robust connection. 
 Use insulated wires for longer connections or if you have to go around
 another connection point.
 
 3) I typically use 1/4 W resistors since they are easy to find.  These
 resistors are not carrying much current due to their high resistance. 
 1/8W is probably okay.  Don't use high power resistors becase many of
 those use coiled wire, which is inductive.
 
 4)Ideally, the film capacitor should be as close as possible to the 
 IC.  Its job is to handle the high speed transients that the
 electrolytic capacitor can't respond to.  You want to minimize the
 resistance and inductance between it and the IC.  The electrolytic
 capacitors can be wherever you want on the board.
In between when I asked about prototyping boards and your answer, I
attempted to do a little learning on my own. I bought a spool of
tinned, non-insulated bus wire from Radio Shack (I think it's 24
gauge). I had intended to use it to route the circuit around the
board.

This particular board has two rows of holes down the middle, the copper
pads of which are connected. I was going to use those rows as my ground.
There are also numerous groupings of two and three holes, the copper
pads of which are also connected. I was going to install the parts in
these group hole pads, and then run jumpers of the bus wire between
the group hole pads to complete connections.

Because of the configuration of the groups, in some instances, say
between the film capacitor and the +V lead on the OpAmp, the connection
might require three little jumpers (six solder connections), and might
run a total distance of and inch and a half. Will this
distance/soldering result in too much resistance/inductance? I could
make more direct and shorter (but less neat) connections if this is an
issue.

Does insulated jumper wire lower inductance, or just prevent shorts?

I am fairly ignorant about electronics, as you can see.

I don't even understand how the capacitors effect the condition of the
power supply, as they seem (from the schematic) to be off to the side
of the circuit bewteen the power supply and the IC.

Again, thank you very much for your help.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-22 Thread jonheal


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[EMAIL PROTECTED] Wrote: 
 Each speaker weighs 350 lbs each.
*Holy Shit*ake mushooms!!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Where is the incredible sound?

2006-02-19 Thread jonheal

konut Wrote: 
 Why don't you just buy a hardware EQ?
A friend of mine with a pretty decent system has been happy with this
model:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?DID=7Partnumber=245-882


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Can I use a 6 amp regulated power supply?

2006-02-16 Thread jonheal

Paul Sop Wrote: 
 Hi all. I have a 6 amp regulated power supply (I can dial in a 5V
 voltage) that I found in my basement. It's a laboratory sort of supply,
 and weighs about 40 pounds. Can I use this lab supply for my
 squeezebox?
 
 Pics of Squeezebox  tubes at:
 http://www.paulsop.com/gallery/cocoonatorium
 
 Cheers,
 Paul Sop
Those massive tubes a quite scary, indeed!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Volume bug - can you really hear it?

2006-02-16 Thread jonheal

jonheal Wrote: 
 Well, heck, I don't know then!
...I was having a bad night.

But really, I should just stop pretending like I know what I'm talking
about. I'd save myself a lot of trouble.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Where is the incredible sound?

2006-02-16 Thread jonheal

Zacko Wrote: 
 I read the tests, I liked the cool look of the Squeezebox 3 and there it
 was, shiny and bright, rather easy setup.
 But where were the true clean crispy sound?
 Not in my speakers.
 iTunes/Airport Express sounds much better thanks to that simple
 equalizer.
 It's an old BangOlufsen amplifier, small Infinity speakers, no
 supercables, no way BO has a digital line in.
 So what could I do except for hoping for a software equalizer solution
 or a plug-in wich will let med play music through SB3 from iTunes?
 
 Mats
 Goteborg
 Sweden
Maybe you're listenting to stuff you bought on iTunes or 128kpbs mp3s,
which happen to have no high end, no bottom and a nice flat and muddled
middle. (They *need* an equalizer to even begin to sound proper.)

You know the sayings ... garbage in, garbage out... and You can't
make a silk purse out of a sow's ear... and all that rot.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Where is the incredible sound?

2006-02-16 Thread jonheal

joncourage Wrote: 
 Lots of information in this article, provides a good summary of what to
 expect.  Sort of a reader's digest version of going through many of the
 threads on this forum.
 
 http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1205/slimdevices_squeezebox.htm
 
 Short version: the SB is indeed capable of high-quality audiophile
 grade sound but to some degree depends on a) what you feed it (format
 and quality of rips); b) what you output it to (DAC, interconnects,
 electronics, speakers).
 
 The consensus seems to be that the out-of-the-box SB is comparable at
 least to most consumer-grade CD players.  Add a decent DAC, you're
 looking at least at mid-grade audiophile-oriented CD players as a
 comparison.  Have some mods done on the SB and you can get it into
 high-end audiophile territory, provided you're feeding it lossless
 music and outputting it to a decent stereo system.
Given the same source material, how could the SqueezeBox's (with an
outboard DAC, if you wish) sound quality *possibly* be any less than
that of *any* CD player with a DAC of similar quality?!?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-15 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 It won't, but tied together like they are, the averaging resistors and
 the highpass filter interact with each other.  The main effect is that
 the 21.5k resistor cuts your gain by more than half.  DC isn't a big
 deal going through a single buffer stage.  The power amp for the sub
 probably has a DC blocker on its input.  If you want to include a DC
 filter, put in a second buffer amp.
Okay, screw the DC blocker.

John Stimson Wrote: 
 You want to have the voltage supplies exceed the maximum signal you wish
 to reproduce by about 2V.  Otherwise, anything within the specified
 range for the op-amp is fine.  +/-9V is easy to achieve with batteries.
 Which reminds me -- you will want some sort of power supply reservoir
 capacitors between +V and ground and between -V and ground.  Something
 like a 100uF electrolytic capacitor in parallel with a 1uF film
 capacitor should work for just one op-amp.
My revised schematic is below. Did I understand what you recommended
for the power supply reservoir? Two more questions:

1. I assume all of those grounds get tied together?

2. I've never used one before, but the little perforated project boards
that you can buy at Radio Shack, etc. ... the ones with lots and lots of
copper-edged holes... are you supposed to connect the dots to make
connections by dragging solder across them? Or are you supposed to use
bits of wire to make connections?


+---+
|Filename: schematic2.gif   |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=897|
+---+

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Volume bug - can you really hear it?

2006-02-15 Thread jonheal

dwc Wrote: 
 Jon, in the first post in this thread, Sean says the change is in the
 firmware. (i.e. not the server code)
 
 Second question, is this change implemented in the 6.2.2 line?  If so
 in what server/firmware version did the change appear?
 
 Thanks,
 Dan
Well, heck, I don't know then!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-11 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 I think it's a great idea to go with an active setup Jon, but at some
 point did you plan on moving to speaker/sub cabinets that did not
 include a crossover of their own? I know there is a debate on active
 vs. passive xovers, but I didn't think anyone recommended both. Is
 there really that much of an advantage to adding hiPass xovers before
 full range speakers with their own built in crossovers?
Thanks for the help John, Pat, Skunk and others.

I intend to build a little circuit that sums and slightly amplifies as
I have discussed with John. I'll connect it to either Y-connectors at
the Preamp-outs of my preamp or its Tape-out jacks. From there, I'll
run a single mono RCA cable to the low-level input (there's only one)
of the sub, an Outlaw Audio LFM-1. The LFM-1 (and most subwoofers with
crossovers, I've learned) contains a low-pass filter only.

As I've said before, my mains are fairly large and go fairly low
(http://www.theheals.org/jon/hi_fi.asp), but wherever they roll off
naturally, I'll attempt to intersect that curve with subwoofer's
low-pass cutoff curve. The curves probably won't have the same slope,
but I'm sure I can get close, and hopefully it'll be at a pretty low
point (50Hz) where they intersect.

I'll post a picture of the circuit when I've finished it. Also, I'm
hoping that I can impose on John Stimson to doublecheck my schematic
before I actually start soldering. :-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-10 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 Nah, those are more like the quick  dirty way.  They're specific to
 1/4 plug audio cables too.  I assume that you're going to be using RCA
 cables.  In that case, you want to put the resistor in series with the
 center conductor, and leave the outer conductor intact.  The wiring for
 the center conductor is:
 
  
Code:

  R---(1kOhm)---\
   ---Sub  
   L---(1kOhm)---/

  
 R and L are the subwoofer outputs of your crossover.
 
 The fancy way would replace the two 1kOhm resistors with, say,
 47kOhm, and insert an active buffer circuit between the Y and the
 subwoofer.
John,

I have a limited knowledge of electronics. Is the example found at the
link below indicative of the buffer circuit you mentioned?

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/filters.htm#9

I'm assuming that the triangle in the schematic is an op amp. True?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal


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John Stimson Wrote: 
 Top to bottom of rack:
 Technics SL-D2 turntable
 Squeezebox2
 Classe CAV-75 6x75W amp
 Home-brew preamp  active crossover
 MSB Nelson Link III DAC
 FM tuner
 Cassette deck
 
 Top to bottom of speaker:
 Hippo
 Focal TC90Tdx tweeter
 Vifa P13WH midrange
 Audio Concepts AC10 woofer
I'm very curious about your active crossover. I need one. Did you
design it yourself? From a plan? Kit?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

I think we need a Components forum for this sort of post, but be that
as it may, I'll proceed.

I have an older preamp that does not include any internal circuitry or
connections to accomodate a subwoofer. Nevertheless, I would like to
get a subwoofer, but I would prefer not to string miles of speaker
cable in order to use the subwoofer's high-level inputs.

So, I'm looking for an active crossover to put in between my preamp and
amp. Now here's the rub: I want it to be of high quality AND I want it
cheap. I don't want to spend much more than $100.00. I realize that at
that price point, I'm probably looking at a kit, or maybe just a
schematic.

I've done some research already and found these two links:

http://www.snippets.org/filters/crossover.htm
http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/%7Etucker/diyaudio/xover.html

Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks in advance.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Doesn't your current pre have a 'tape' output for recording to cassette?
 Maybe you could run that to the sub, and use the subs crossover.
The problem there is that 100% of the signal would still proceed into
the power amp for the main speakers. I need a low-pass filter between
the preamp and the amp so that I don't have the lowest frequencies
coming out of both the main speakers and the subwoofer.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

ezkcdude Wrote: 
 The description says they are active crossover simulators. What
 exactly does that mean?
Who knows? The bottom line is that they are supposed to either roll-off
the high or low end at 12db per octave at a given frequency. It's
difficult to find authoritative reviews of these items on the Internet.
I've looked.

I did stumble across another active crossover at a good price by
Marchand Electronics. They have a range of products. The one I'm
looking at is 40 bucks, but it needs a box, jacks and a power supply. I
could probably still do it for $100.00.

http://www.marchandelec.com/xm1.html


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

Robin Bowes Wrote: 
 jonheal said the following on 02/09/2006 12:34 PM:
  I think we need a Components forum for this sort of post, but be
 that
  as it may, I'll proceed.
  
  I have an older preamp that does not include any internal circuitry
 or
  connections to accomodate a subwoofer. Nevertheless, I would like to
  get a subwoofer, but I would prefer not to string miles of speaker
  cable in order to use the subwoofer's high-level inputs.
  
  So, I'm looking for an active crossover to put in between my preamp
 and
  amp. Now here's the rub: I want it to be of high quality AND I want
 it
  cheap. I don't want to spend much more than $100.00. I realize that
 at
  that price point, I'm probably looking at a kit, or maybe just a
  schematic.
  
  I've done some research already and found these two links:
  
  http://www.snippets.org/filters/crossover.htm
  http://kahuna.sdsu.edu/%7Etucker/diyaudio/xover.html
  
  Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
 Your sub will most likely have a low-pass built in and your main
 system
 will most likely not go down very low.
 
 So, try a Y-cable first and see how it sounds.
 
 If it sounds OK, buy yourself another SB with the money you save. :)
 
 R.
Robin,

Actually, I think my system goes fairly low as it is. I haven't put an
SPL meter on it yet, but I think it's safe to say that it's no more
than 3db down at 60Hz. Maybe 50Hz. (I'll find out for sure with a meter
before I proceed too much further.)

(I'm looking for that extra octave with the sub.)

I was under the impression that it was not acceptable to sum the
channels with a Y-connector because you mess up the impedance. Is this
not true?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

http://www.rane.com/note109.html


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

pfarrell Wrote: 
 jonheal wrote:
  I have an older preamp that does not include any internal circuitry
 or
  connections to accomodate a subwoofer. Nevertheless, I would like to
  get a subwoofer, but I would prefer not to string miles of speaker
  cable in order to use the subwoofer's high-level inputs.
 
 Doesn't your sub have speaker level imputs? Most do.
 Then you can run cables from your speakers to the sub and be done.
 
 Altho it sounds like you don't want to put the low freq signal thru
 your amp.
 
 
  So, I'm looking for an active crossover to put in between my preamp
 and
  amp. Now here's the rub: I want it to be of high quality AND I want
 it
  cheap. I don't want to spend much more than $100.00.
 
 Hey, this is the audiophiles list. Here, we think nothing
 of spending $100 on blocks of wood to hold the speaker cables
 in proper alignment.
 
 Look in the 'pro audio' world, go to your local guitar center.
 Not that they have anything that is audiophile quality.
 
 Of course, if you are running miles of speaker cable,
 you have other problems. 10 feet is a fairly long way
 to run speaker cable, unless it is just for background
 or effects.
 
 You do realise that any crossover or EQ will screw up
 the phase, and that is one of the most important things
 for quality reproduction.
 
 
 -- 
 Pat
 http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html
Pat,

12 ft. of four fat speaker cables draped across the room? WAF: -80.
Now, that, I'm sure you can understand!


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

pfarrell Wrote: 
 jonheal wrote:
  Actually, I think my system goes fairly low as it is. I haven't put
 an
  SPL meter on it yet, but I think it's safe to say that it's no more
  than 3db down at 60Hz. Maybe 50Hz. (I'll find out for sure with a
 meter
  before I proceed too much further.)
  (I'm looking for that extra octave with the sub.)
 
 An octave is only half the Hz. So if you go down to 60Hz, an extra
 octave is only to 30Hz. But that would let you hear the low E
 on a bass.
 
 IMHO, it is not a subwoofer if it makes any signal
 above 50 hz. And I could agree with folks arguing that
 sub woofers stop at 40hz.
 
  I was under the impression that it was not acceptable to sum the
  channels with a Y-connector because you mess up the impedance. Is
 this
  not true?
 
 It is correct, you do not want to use a Y to sum, It is fine
 (usually) to use a Y to drive two outputs from one source.
 To mix, you need an active component.
 
 The SPL meter will not tell you if the signal is correct.
 Lots of systems double at low frequencies, and the SPL
 will look right. Doubling is when the woofer can't reproduce
 the fundamental, so it does the second harmonic instead.
 
 Any audiophile speaker should go into the 50s or even 40s
 without doubling, even mini-monitors. A rolloff
 of 3db/octave starting at 50 is fairly typical
 unless you have big drivers, or lots of watts.
 
 -- 
 Pat
 http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html
Pat,

There is a free program at:

http://www.marchandelec.com/fg.html

...that will generate a sine wave at any frequency between 1Hz and
20kHz. My assumption is that any doubling my main speakers do will be
audible to me as I pass through various frequencies between, say 40Hz
and 70Hz, and then I can try to take that into account in attempting to
determine where my mains start to lose it. What do you think? The second
harmonic is twice the frequency, yes?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Active Crossover

2006-02-09 Thread jonheal

John Stimson Wrote: 
 Because if a bass sound is hard-panned to one side or the other, you may
 miss it completely.  Bass may be fairly nondirectional but that's no
 guarantee that the left and right channels of all recordings will be
 identical in the 20-80Hz range.
 
 A quick  dirty way to blend the channels would be to put a 1kOhm
 resistor in series with each channel before going into a Y-connector. 
 If your preamp can safely drive a 1kOhm load, then this will average
 the two signals, with a small amount of attenuation.
 
 The fancy way is to use larger resistors that tie together to feed the
 input of the buffer amp, which eliminates the problem of attenuation
 and allows you to present a higher (more friendly) load impedance to
 your preamp.
John,

Is your fancy way represented by the schematic on this page?

http://www.rane.com/note109.html


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-08 Thread jonheal


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Here's our rig:

* SqueezeBox 3 - wired connection
* Vintage ADCOM GFA-535 amplifier and GTP-400 preamp/tuner
* Dayton Audio interconnects
* DIY speaker cables
* PSB Stratus Bronze loudspeakers with custom bases

SlimServer's running on a Windows box in the basement. Our FLACs are on
a drive controlled by a Linksys NSLU2, also in the basement. I refer to
the ADCOM components as vintage because I purchased them way back in
1987. It's a little funny (an depressing) to think that when I bought
that stuff, the creators of the SqueezeBox were practically still
crapping in their pants.

You can follow this link to some ramblings and more pictures of the
system on our web site: http://www.theheals.org/jon/hi_fi.asp


+---+
|Filename: hifi.jpg |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=870|
+---+

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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-08 Thread jonheal


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Kyle Wrote: 
 Very nice, Jon.  Zen-like in its simplicity, except for those whopping
 speakers.  Did you have to drill a hole in the floor to hardwire?
Fortunately, the floors came pre-drilled, courtesy of the previous
owner.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-08 Thread jonheal


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ezkcdude Wrote: 
 Finally got everything in place now.
Those are nice looking speakers. Where did you get the parts? Did you
make the stands, too?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Hosfelt Power Supply

2006-02-07 Thread jonheal

Heuer Wrote: 
 The -ve is indeed on the outer sleeve, check with a meter after you have
 soldered the new lead and plug.. The SB3 minature power plug is a
 generic item and can be bought from any electronics supply shop (Radio
 Shack, Maplin etc). Best to take the stock supply with you and ask the
 shop to match the plug. They may have an already made up lead you could
 use/modify.
The connector is not quite that generic, there are quite a few
differnet sizes that look very similar. They are labeled as C, L,
N, etc.

I think the SB uses size N. Maybe someone at Slim could confirm.

And yes, you can buy another power supply from Slim:

https://secure.slimdevices.com/order/upgrades.cgi


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Any one know anything about the little isolator blocks you put under the feet of cdp?

2006-02-07 Thread jonheal

pfarrell Wrote: 
 Skunk wrote:
  Some people must make a pretty good living selling those feet. I can
  hardly imagine spending $400 for an interface between a table and cd
  player, but people certainly do. 
 
 It made a lot of sense back in the days of yore with turntables.
 It makes far less sense with a CP player, but audiophiles are
 not the most rational people. I can't imagine how a solid
 state device with no moving parts, like a SqueezeBox, would care,
 Maybe more so if you put the squeezebox on top of the speaker
 cabinet. But I can believe that someone will swear that it makes
 a huge difference.
 
 If there is any real science behind it, then just floating it
 on a tire tube or tennis ball is not going to help much.
 You need to dampen and absorbe the vibration energy, and a spring
 will just delay it. You really need something of a shock absorber.
 Or a mass sprung between two or more series of springs.
 
 -- 
 Pat
 http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html
Well, you could suspend it in a vat of viscous fluid, or better yet,
float it mid-air on magnets! You should also probably position an
aluminum foil pyramid over it to reduce interference from alien
sub-carrier frequencies (of course it will reduce your wireless signal
strength somewhat).

(If I keep this up, I'm going to get banned from this forum. All in
good fun, mates!)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Inwall amplifiers

2006-02-06 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Your link isn't very precise, unless you meant 'structured wiring' in
 general. Isn't structured wiring a proactive solution though, meaning
 you run all wires to every room before the need arises?
I was attempting to point to PartsExpress's stock of in-wall enclosures
(for the power supplies, etc.). You'd still need to run 110V romex into
the box -- not exactly trivial.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-06 Thread jonheal


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agentsmith Wrote: 
 As you can see from second picture, space is dominated by wife's
 precious Precious moments collection.  Compromises
Oh, lordy...

I reckon turning up the bass is NOT ALLOWED in your household.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-02-05 Thread jonheal


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Mike Anderson Wrote: 
 Music in FLAC on 500GB LaCie hard drive -
 Squeezebox 2, digital out -
 Benchmark DAC1, balanced outputs -
 Pathos Logos integrated amp -
 Speltz anti-cables, bi-wired -
 Magnepan 1.6QRs.
 
 [image: http://static.flickr.com/25/95506015_927d70d283_o.jpg]
Ever misfire and stick a dart in those maggies?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Reality Check: Power Supplies

2006-02-03 Thread jonheal

Since I'm not an electrical engineer, may logic may be flawed, but
here's my proposition as it concerns switching vs. linear power
supplies, and also choking the power cord with a ferrite core:

My assumption is that whatever noise/coloration/etc. the power supply
is going to be adding to music will be evident whether the SqueezeBox
is playing music or not, because, well ... the power supply is always
supplying power.

To compare power supplies, I suggest turning the volume up to max on
the SqueezeBox -- not while your playing music, mind you, but while the
SqueezeBox is idle. Then, turn the volume of your amp up to max. Now,
get a good set of headphones and listen. Even with the quietest system,
you'll hear noise.

Have your wife or someone switch power supplies, or add and remove the
choke from the power line while your listening through the headphones.
If you can hear a difference, pick the quieter option. BTW, disconnect
your speakers during this experiment. switching power supply sends a
big spike through my speakers when I plug it in and unplug it.

Also, if you happen the get the White Noise of Death during the
experiment, it'll probably kill you on the spot ;-)

Comments? Am I a little naive concerning These escoteric issues?


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Reality Check: Power Supplies

2006-02-03 Thread jonheal

CardinalFang Wrote: 
 But how do you tell where the noise is coming from? Amplifer noise could
 be swamping any SB noise.
 
 Paul
I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know enough to know that noise is
additive (not counting things like out-of-phase stuff cancelling itself
out). If there's more noise when one power supply is plugged in vs. the
other, than the extra noise is the result of the power supply --
regardless of the preamp's noise level.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Reality Check: Power Supplies

2006-02-03 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Is the load presented to the power supply not affected by musical peaks?
 Surely not as much as in power amps, but I'm *guessing* listening to
 silence would be inconclusive.
My experiment focuses on only one characteristic -- audible noise.
Power supplies may have other characteristics that make one more suited
to powering audio components over another. But if your goal is to simply
inject as little noise into the chain as possible, this experiment may
tell you which power supply is better in this one regard.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Reality Check: Power Supplies

2006-02-03 Thread jonheal

Skunk Wrote: 
 Does that translate even indirectly to what people with too much time on
 their hands describe as 'inky black backgrounds'? I hope you know I'm
 partially kidding Jon!
Well, I'm gullible enough that I will go along with just about whatever
escoteric mod the Intelligentsia says works -- as long as it costs less
than $20.00 ;-)

In the case of this power supply/choke debate, I think I am fairly
sensitive to subtle grunge noise in my system. In fact, I was detecting
a little, and I wondered if it was attributable to the switching power
supply. As it turned out, the mechanical source selector on my ancient
preamp must have had a little junk in it, because I turned it back and
forth fast a few times, and the noise went away.

But it did get me thinking about some sort of empirical test to compare
the two styles of power supplies on the merits of the noise they inject
into the signal path.

I have a linear supply that I bought on eBay. Actually two came with my
order, so I have an extra. I don't know a thing about them other than
the seller claimed they were linear supplies. They produce 5V @ 2500mA.
They're huge. They're big grounded suckers that weigh about three
pounds. But I need to find a power adapter plug that will fit the lead
coming out of the supply and the SqueezeBox, which I believe takes a
size N.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Anyone using a Shigaraki or Progession DAC?

2006-02-01 Thread jonheal

CardinalFang Wrote: 
 What's natural about HiFi! :-)
 
 I have a Musical Fidelity DAC and like it - it's good value for money.
 I'd never claim that any of my gear is natural though - it generates a
 sound that is pleasing to my ears is the best you could say. 
 
 I suppose if you do listen to purely natural sound recordings then you
 could claim that, but I haven't heard many new groups running free in
 their natural environment to be able to say whether it's good or not
 :-) I did see the Sex Pistols and the Clash a few times and they aren't
 natural on vinyl, I assure you! The thought of Mr Lydon running carefree
 in the Sarenghetti does present an interesting thought though. 
 
 Joking aside, is being close to vinyl ideal or have our ears just got
 tuned to that sound as being right? I have a Pink Triangle setup and
 often think it sounds smoother and more cohesive, but is that because
 my ears have got trained to a smoother presentation?
 
 Paul
I find the image of that arrogant and sarcastic primo don Johnny Lydon
sprinting at top speed with a leopard nipping at his bum quite amusing.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: piano solos

2006-01-31 Thread jonheal

pfarrell Wrote: 
 seanadams wrote:
  I am looking for some exceptionally well recorded piano solos -
  suggestions?
 
 In the classical world, a great set is
 Goldberg Variations - Glenn Gould - 1981 CBS Masterworks  by Glenn
 Gould
 
 Not quite solo piano, but predominately piano in a jazz trio setting
 Duke Ellington
 Album: Piano In the Foreground
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Pat
 http://www.pfarrell.com/music/slimserver/slimsoftware.html
You'll have to endure Mr. Gould's mumbling and humming throughout the
Goldberg Variations, however. He's a bit of an eccentric. :-)


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: Best subwoofer for music under $1000?

2006-01-27 Thread jonheal

I was recently at a friend's house auditioning his Outlaw Audio LFM-1.
This unit is rated flat to 25Hz. We listened to a variety of music and
also to test tones.

My friend had the subwoofer positioned behind and to the right of us. I
believe he had it crossed-over at 80, or perhaps 100Hz. When he turned
the volume up on the sub (while playing music), I could definitely
percieve an increase in sound energy to my right and behind, not with
pinpoint accuracy, but generally.

Playing test tones was interesting. Unless they've heard a test disc, I
don't think most people realize what a jarring experience it is to
listen to a pure 25Hz tone. It's actually quite uncomfortable,
physically. Furthermore, listening to the range of higher-frequency
test tones revealed that I could change the apparent location of the
source of sound by simply slightly rotating my head or moving forward
or backward a few inches.

I would offer the suggestion that any directionality one percieves from
really low tones, like lowest notes on a pipe organ are due to the
harmonics that are are accompaning it (and making it more palatable). I
think that extended listening to a pure 16Hz tone without the
accompaning harmonics would probably melt your brain, or at least drive
you batty.


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[SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Re: A photo of your Squeezebox setup (please)

2006-01-20 Thread jonheal


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dwc Wrote: 
 Here's my headphone rig.
 -Dan
 
 http://www.sonic.net/dcarwin/images/P1190247.JPG

Dan,

I hope you didn't take offense at my smart-assness.

Jon


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