Re: Fw: Fw: Eric

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  B&P 
  Bell 
  To: Biodynamic Food and Farming Discussion 
  
  Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:52 
  AM
  Subject: Re: Fw: Fw: Eric
  
  G'day:The www.unionag.net doesn't work either. Any 
  other suggestions?CheersPenelope 
   
   Hi Hugh is still touring New Zealand 
  and Australia. i'am afriad you will have to wait until he gets back in 2-3 
  weeks time 
   Cheers 
Tony  
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Re: companion planting organic strawberry

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi liz and Di  Steve Diver posted this about strawberries some time ago.
 Cheers Tony

>
>
> > > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "Steve Diver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 11:19 AM
> > > Subject: Re: companion planting + Marvin Pritts + organic strawberry +
> > > biocrystallization
> > >
> > >
> > > > Yeah, 1994 is a long time ago.  It does reflect thinking
> > > > of that era.  But it is a point frozen in time.
> > > >
> > > > Just so you know, Marvin Pritts' research on non-chemical weed
> > > > control & cover crops in organic strawberry production at
> > > > Cornell is about the most detailed and useful work you can find
> > > > among the land-grant university efforts.  The other useful work
> > > > on organic strawberries among land-grants comes from the
> > > > Agroecology program at UC-Santa Cruz.
> > > >
> > > > See at Cornell:
> > > >
> > > > Strawberry Production Systems:  Organic
> > > > Marvin Pritts | Cornell University
> > > > http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/organic.htm
> > > >
> > > > Organic Small Fruit: Key Features of Organic Berry Crop Production
> > > > Marvin Pritts | Cornell University
> > > > http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/organicres.htm
> > > >
> > > > See at UC-Santa Cruz:
> > > >
> > > > Organic Strawberry publications | research citations:
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/cases/organicstrawberry/publications.htm
> > > >
> > > > Organic Strawberry Production As An Alternative to Methyl
> > > > Bromide | EPA Methyl Bromide Alternatives Case Studies
> > > > http://www.epa.gov/docs/ozone/mbr/casestudies/volume2/orgsber2.html
> > > >
> > > > Maintaining Agroecosystem Health in the Conversion to Organic
> > > > Management of a Strawberry/Vegetable Rotation System
> > > > by J. Muramoto, S.R. Gliessman, et al
> > > > HTML Abstract
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/people/joji/research/elkhorn_2.htm
> > > > Poster in PDF
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/people/joji/research/poster_2002.pdf
> > > >
> > > > Indicators of Soil Health in an Organic Strawberry-Vegetable
> > > > Rotation
> > > > by J. Muramoto, S.R. Gliessman, et al
> > > > HTML Abstract
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/people/joji/research/elkhorn_1.htm
> > > > Poster in PDF
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/people/joji/research/poster_2001.pdf
> > > >
> > > > Agroecological Case Studies:  Organic Strawberries
> > > > http://www.agroecology.org/cases/organicstrawberry.htm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > 1994 - "sensitive crystallization" dissed by Cornell
> > > >
> > > > 2003 - "biocrystallization" is an accepted bioassay method
> > > > in scientific journals dealing with organic agriculure research
> > > > and food quality assessment.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Sunshine and blue skies,
> > > > Steve Diver
> > > >
> > > > ===
> > > > ===
> > > >
> > > > Roger Pye wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > One swallow doth not a summer make! Have a look at
> > > > > http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/finland.htm
> > > > > which clearly he wrote some time later and which contains some
good
> > less
> > > > > conventional ideas. Take note that Pritts is now head of
> horticulture
> > in
> > > > > his faculty at cornell
> > > > >
> > > > > roger
> > > > >
> > > > > Turtle Bend wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > We had better watch ourselves!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 
> > > > > >
> > > > > > L*L
> > > > > > Markess
> > > > > > ___
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > http://www.hort.cornell.edu/gardening/fctsheet/egfactsh/complant.html
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Department of Horticulture
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ecogardening Factsheet #10, Winter 1994
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >   Companion Planting
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Ecogardening Factsheets
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Most people think of plants as very passive organisms. They grow
> > > > > > almost unperceptively, and only once a year do they flower or
> > produce
> > > > > > edible products. However, plants are very active in ways that
are
> > not
> > > > > > so obvious to the casual observer. For example, plants change
the
> > > > > > chemistry of the soil, and influence the types of microorganisms
> > that
> > > > > > grow there.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

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Re: Fw: Fw: Eric

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi Allan Hugh's web  has a new website address
Visit our website at: www.unionag.net 
Which he has been posting on the bottom of his emails.
Some swedish firm has grabbed his address to sell sex toys.
 Cheers Tony
Land Down Under
 
- Original Message - 
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Biodynamic Food and Farming Discussion" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Fw: Eric


> >PS Have u checked out www.union.org ? what is that all about ??
> 
/

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Grower research results.

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi folks   I belong to a group of 20 growers  that grows a  flower crop
called Gentians for export  from NZ to Japan, USA and Europe. It is the most
fabulous Blue flower i have ever known. it is also a very new crop to the
world.
 Below is bud count analysis from 2 convential growers and my BD grown
plants. Look at the figures, BD comes out on top . I have a spray programme
using Glens potentised preps and here is some early results. YE  EXCITING
STUFF!

Cheers from one happy chappie from The Land Down Under


 Grower R
Dormant bud count analysis.
Test variety A
49 plants
581 buds
11 average buds/plant
min 2
max 23
standard deviation 5.55
Test variety B
53 plants
645 buds
12. 17 average buds/plant
min 4
max 30
standard deviation 4.3


Dormant bud count analysis for  grower M test plants
Test variety A
118 plants
1557 buds
13.19 average buds/plant
min 4
max 31
standard deviation ?

Test variety B
118 plants
1352 buds
11.45 average buds/plant
min 3
max 22
standard deviation ?


> Dormant bud count analysis from Tony. [ BD grown plants]
> No-Banshu improved
> 120 plants planted
> 8 deaths
> 2218 buds
> 19.8 average buds/plant
> min 8
> max 46
> standard deviation 8.39
> 
> Test variety A
> 120 plants planted
> 3 deaths
> 1858 buds
> 16.02 average buds/plant
> min 6
> max 35
> standard deviation 5.34
>
> The above indicates that No-Banshu has a high bud count, however the
> standard deviation shows that test variety A has a more consistent bud
> count.
>

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Re: RE:Voodoo/Hamilton Willis

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Eric Myren 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 3:17 
  PM
  Subject: RE:Voodoo/Hamilton Willis
  
  . Is anyone wondering why Hugh Lovel has been silent on this issue 
  perhaps it is because he would agree that Radionics is like Voodoo. Or so he 
  has been quoted as emailing to me off bdnow. 
   
   Hi  Eric   
  Hugh's silence is  because he is in Australia and NewZealand  for 
  the next 4-5 weeks as  the quest  speaker  at BD 
  workshops. The interest is coming from BD people and more importantly 
  from conventional farmers looking for a more sustainable 
  approach.
   CHEERS 
  TONY    
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Re: Dornachian reactions?

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  
  Our newer (Biodynamic 
  Agriculture) organisation has taken a more open and educational position and 
  many farmers are learning to do things for themselves. There will be more 
  mistakes made for sure, but learning always involves 
  mistakes. 
   
   Hi Lloyd I get there NewsLeaf 
  magizine  and the workshops and  seminars they run are 
  inspiring  and exciting . One day i will be tempted to grab a cheap 
  airfare across the ditch  and attend one or two we get nothing like this 
  in NZ.
  
If the traditionalists manage to take over that 
organisation (and its likely, politics being what it is ) then there are 
enough of us free thinking loonies on the outside to carry things forward 
whatever happens. 
I believe that homeopathic remedies and what I 
term low level radionics - field broadcasters, potentiser instruments, (and 
probably some of the paper based systems),  combined with dowsing and 
basic soil remineralising are the way of the future for agriculture. Energy 
farming!
 
 You have hit it on the nail and it is a 
lot more fun to do as well
 
I sure have met some interesting people in the 
last few years! 
Cheers all 
Lloyd Charles 
  
   Lloyd you are one of them 
   Cheers Tony Robinson NZ
  

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Re: Dornachian reactions? A glimmer of hope

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Glen wrote


> Upon reflection I do not hear people knocking the use of traditional
preps.
> They are knocking the organisations who seem to be isolating themselves
from
> their members and the wider BD community,

 Hi Glen   Maybe there is a glimmer of change on the horizon. I  was
contacted yesterday by a NZBD assoc member  and was asked 'How can the NZBD
assoc help people like me who organise  workshops and international speakers
to come to NZ." I am having a meeting on Sunday.

 Cheers Tony Robinson
NZ

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BD in Hawai'i

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi folks  I have  had a group of 8 
young people from the Wai'anae Organic AG Centre visit  me as part of their 
10 day visit to New Zealand . They left with big smiles on there faces, a heap 
of information and a promise from me to email them details about BDNOW and a 
list of some of the interesting info that comes from this list. Which I have 
done so.
Who are the BD contacts in Hawaii's please.  
These are keen young people who want to repair the damage been done to their 
fragile environment. They want to learn more about BD in  the 
tropics.
 Thanks for any help
Cheers Tony Robinson
NewZealand  
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For Hugh Lovel needs to contact Tony

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

  Hi folks Apologies for this but i am trying 
to contact HUGH Lovel urgently as he he has inot replied to a prvate post sent 
WED.
Thanks for your understanding 
 
Hugh Did you get my message WED inregards to your 
travel plans to NZ I need you reply asap.I also resent the message 
today.
  Cheers Tony 
R 
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Re: Hughs NZ visit

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi Glen 
I haven't finalized Hughs NZ itinary yet. He 
is speaking in Kiawaka  Sat19July,  Waikato Wed 23, Hawkes 
BayFriday 25, Levin Sunday 27th.
He has free days Sunday to Tues at the moment. 

Cheers Tony Robinson
 

  Hugh
  Apologies, e's sent to your personal 
  email address keeps coming back to me
  If your timetable is still forming, and you have 
  a spare day or night in Hawkes Bay, Caroline & I would like to invite 
  you to stay with us at Ocean Beach, just near Hastings, by the vast Pacific 
  ocean, for some R & R, which I am sure you will be deserving by 
  then.
  cheers
  Glen A
   
  
  

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Hugh Lovel visits New Zealand July

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi to NZ BD subcribers  this is the programme for Hugh 
Lovel's visit to NZ in July.
Hope to see you all there.
Regards Tony Robinson

 

  
  Agricultural Remedies. 
  
  How to Make the Biodynamic 
  Preparations Work Better.
  
  Hugh Lovel is the principal of the Union Agriculture Institute 
  inBlairsville, Georgia, USA. He is one of the leading 
  Biodynamicconsultants in the US. He visited NZ in 2000. Hugh says, "Much 
  of whatI have to offer is my understanding of BD, and the various ways of 
  using it."
  
  A compassionate, highly intelligent writer/consultant with a 
  true, creative insight and a wonderful turn of phrase. He has tirelessly 
  promoted his great passion - the science of biodynamics. 
  
  
   
  Workshop for Northland /Auckland 
  SAT 19 July 10.00 am - 4.00pm 
  Kiawaka Memorial Hall. Mangawhai Rd Kaiwaka. 
  Register with Anne Dodds 09 435 3129 or Berndette Blair. 09 
  415 9044. 
  
  Waikato / Bay of Plenty
  Wed 23rd July 10 am -4 pm 
  Waikato Waldorf School 54 Borman Rd Hamilton 
  Register with Tanja Benthien ph/fax 07 872 
  2545   
  Peter Bacchus 07 542 1914 e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  Hawkes Bay
  Friday 25th July 9.30 -3.30 
  Havelock North Community Centre, Te Mata Rd, Havelock 
  North.
  Register with Cleone Armon 06 878 3128
  
   
  Horowhenua, Manawatu, Wairapapa, Whanganui
  Sunday 27th July.10.00-4.00
  Rambler Flowers 86 The Avenue [SH1] 
  Please register with Enterprise Horowhenua 06 
  3670524.
  
  OR EMAIL organiser Tony Robinson: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] for more details
  
   
  COST: $60 PER PERSON includes a practical manual 
  Please BYO Lunch.
  Water, Tea, Coffee provided at all venues. 
  
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Re: Vitality and fertility ofsoils

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: Vitality and fertility ofsoils


>

> In the agriculture lectures Steiner refers several times to keeping the
work on the farm

Hi Steve, Alan
This is what I like about Rheams method is that  a farmer can learn to do
all his own testing  from weeds ,insects La Motte soil test, ERGS  ORP, ph,
brix tests to evaluate the health of his plants and take the appropriate
measures to rectify by foliar sprays , BD sprays, Radionics, compost ,
organic fertilisers. Every time I do the above I learn more about my soils
and plants. By combining  all the above activities a farmer has  sound
programme for conversation to organics/ BD.
Many times when I have mention BD to growers  I get the comment that BD is
too hard , I have not got enough time to stir, it is too confusing  and the
list goes on. I myself  changed from conventionial growing to BD 10 years
ago
following traditional methods it was fine for the first few years and then
nothing got any better it wasn't until I joined this list and  started using
potentised preps ,sequential spraying along with Rheams  that I  that things
have really started to change I still have a lot of hard work to do  before
I am satisfied that I am producing the perfect crop that is pest, weed and
disease free. It is about Working Smarter Not Harder that is my philosophy


> As  far as I am concerned I do not care for any of these scientific
> evaluations until the preparations have been used for two years...sstorch

I recall reading  a conversation between Steiner and Pfeiffer where Steiner
encourage Pfeiffer to study every thing that he could to make Biodynamic
sustainable and profitable  he says it wouldn't work unless it was
profitable
for the farmer . Pfeiffer  spent his life time as a scientist studing
,writing and lecturing on this subject.  it is so wonderful to have so much
knowledge from this list to allow me as a grower to developed my own farm
using my own skill, ability  and resources that I have available   my own
individuality.


 Cheers Tony

Re: Vitality and fertility ofsoils

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi James
I  was just looking up some notes in Phil Wheeler book when I came across
3-4 sections on  crop vitality and how it can be measured and how it can be
changed using Albrecht/Rheams.
he also mentioned   Dr Arden  Andersens other book
' The Anatomy of  life and Energy in Agriculture."

>Philip Wheeler's book The  Non-Toxic Farming  Handbook
.
 Regards Tony Robinson

Re: Austr. Workshop/ Was there a higher purpose?

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I'd be including David von Pein and Des Whatley in on this discussion but
I
> don't have their e-mail. Anyone help with this? >
> Best,
> Hugh
>
>  Hi Hugh  Last time i was in contact with David  he was not  on email .
He can be contacted indirectly through his web site which goes to a friend
of his who faxes messages to his home.
The Meter Man - David von Pein
http://www.themeterman.com.au

Cheers Tony R

Re: Help /HORN CLAY

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 1:38 AM
Subject: Re: Help



>
> Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T
> scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the
> clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay
> fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the
> chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
> wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?
>

 Dear Hugh
 That horn clay  was made  from our own clay,  which is a yellow sticky clay
and had been buried for about 16-17 months as I had forgotten to lift it up
that autumn it was going to be 12month  horn clay . I have been using it
ever since  at first with the 500  stir . I then had Peter Bacchus potentise
it  for me to use along with Glen and Peters Garuda range of potentised
preps.
Last spring in  September I started to use all the preps in a sequential
spray programme from Steve Storch modified a little to suit my own
conditions.I am spraying every 2 months and I am very pleased with the
results especially when  we have been experiencing some dramatic 30 year
weather cycle we have gone from the coldest wettest spring to the hottest
and driest summer . it is predicted to go on for about another 4-5 weeks
which means for us a 100 year drought .
Anyway my fern crops which I harvest all year round  are doing extremely
well . The size of the crop has improved, production is better and so is the
qualility. I have not had any complaints for several   months. I have also
noticed that my usual summer pest problems are less this year.
Also a small amount of horn clay is mixed withall the preps 500,501,BC and
spinled over the worm farms and the leachate is use as  liquid feed on a
weekly basis applied through the irrigation.
Soon I will put down an autumn spring horn clay and then a spring -autumn ho
rn clay this will be for my more seasonal crops.
 The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and
were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted
covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will  make some good 500,
horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd.
Thanks for reminding me.

 Best regards Tony R

Re: Help

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Hugh Lovel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
.

> chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such
> wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it?
>
 Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my
wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very
sick with the flu.
Your post has reminded me that we  reburied some horn clay  and I have never
lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back.
Yes I have been using  horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting
better.
Back soon Tony R

Re: Help

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: Help


> What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a
> greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for
> use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it.
> First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz
> mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes
> the house uncomfortable for seedlings.
>
>
> But, what is you life experience?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Allan
>
 Hi  I have been using 501 and Potentised 501  under 30,000 sq feet of
plastic houses for 10 years and havn't had any problems . In fact growing
under cover I feel that you should be using it more often particularly when
light levels are low and plant growth is soft.
Cheers Tony R

Re: Vitality and fertility ofsoils

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "James Hedley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
claim that food is better if
> grown biodynamically. I love my plants and take great delight in growing
> plants that have a look of vitality about them.  Although they may appear
to
> be very vital plants, each year the seed loses some of it's vitality.
>
> My problem then became how do I increase vitality,

 James  Some time ago when Peter Bacchus and I were working together in the
fields we had a great discussion on plant breeding  and the use of BD preps
to effect this .
What comes to mind ,as no notes were taken we were grubbing weeds, was that
we talked about the use of different preps to aid in cross breeding  to
improve colour, quality,  vigour etc.
Maybe Peter may be able to help you in this area. Just a thought that came
to mind as I grubbed another lot of weeds.
Regards Tony.

Re: Vitality and fertility ofsoils

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "James Hedley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
. Vitality of the soil seems to not get coverage on
> BDnow.
> Maybe one of the reasons is that until I started to research this concept
I
> had never heard of vitality as being measurable parameter of soil. I write
> this in the hope that some of you who have experience of Reams techniques
> may be able to enlighten me, or head me in the direction of further areas
of
> study of his methods.
>

I James I have enjoyed studding  and putting into practice the Reams  method
of testing soils,composts, liquid  sprays, weeds and plant on a weekly basis
to be able to grow plants with out weed ,pests and disease. Reams  talks
about energy within the above and how to get it in balance that will enhance
optimum plant growth. I feel with in myself that there is a link between
energy and vitality.
 As I am not a particularly good at writing about these things I have posted
below  information that I have collected about this  subject .This coming
winter I  hope to study  some of Carey Reams books. A friend is going to
lend them to me as they are out of print


Philip Wheeler's book The  Non-Toxic Farming  Handbook is the best book I
have read .
Other books are
Science In Agriculture, Dr Arden BE Andersen
Mainline Farming for the 21st Century, Dr Dan Skow
All found at the Acres USA site
http://www.acresusa.com
 Each of these author have a different slant on the subject.

A VISIT to this web site will give you a very good  edited background to
working with the Albrecht Model. http://www.healthyag.com/index2.html
I will soon be purchasing Mr Jones books his work as been recommended to me
by  Cheryl  .His work is very user friendly.
 99

The Brix man  Rex Harrill
www.brixpage.com
www.crossroads.ws/brixbook/BBook.htm (Rex Harrill's booklet)



Pike Labs  Good background material here
 http://www.pikeagri.com/tissuetest.html


The Meter Man - David von Pein
http://www.themeterman.com.au

This guy can talk for hours on the subject . He recons  soil can be turned
around in about 3years
I found him very helpful.

 James  I do have a number of emails from this list on the subject if you
are interested I could send them  offline

I hope this is of  assistance
Best Regards
Tony Robinson
 New Zealand Down Under

Mulch For Sustainable Production

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 Hi folks  This may be of interest to 
grape growers. It is a 4 year study on organic mulches in vineyards from the 
Marlborough Research Centre. NewZealand.
Report can be downloaded from: www.hortresearch.co.nz
 
Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: "Three-Up Tour" & compost tea brew

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Lloyd Charles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 2:24 PM

> would use the brix meter on crop. >
>

Hi Lloyd  I  have been testing my brews  for pH, ergs, brix and temp.
As I spray in the evenings I have not done a leaf brix test,I also got to
busy to spray so just put it through the irrigation.
So far pH and ergs increases as the brew ages and as the temp goes up. Brix
is zero%
i.e. Temp 20 Degrees = pH 7.2, ergs 2.32 mS at start of brew
24 hrs later 29 degrees =pH 7.8, ergs 2.53
I yet have not done enough brews to see if this is consistent and I do have
some variables to contend with like air temp.
My second and third brews have shown similar results.
Please note this has been set up as a  working operation and is ruled by
farmyard measurements.
Now that  work is easing up I will get back to some more testing.
Cheers TonyR
NZ DOWN UNDER

Re: "Three-Up Tour" & compost tea brew

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi Lloyd I have made a small 50Litre brewer made from an old stainless
steel LPG cylinder with a couple of air stones an air pump it cost me about
$60. I have used worm compost worm leachate, comphrey tea with some
equisetum
and barrel compost,humic acid, hydroslated fish kelpand rockdust to produce
a rich smelling frothy ttea in about 24 hrs. I have been aiming for a
balanced fungal/bacterial tea this has been fed to the crop through the
trickle and overhead irrigation. I have been impressed on simple and easy it
is to make and  use. Even tho we have had one of the most  difficult growing
seasons  for a long time  I am very impressed with the  quality of my crops
.Best yet.
Have you had any sample testes by SFW yet?
  They do not have their NZ lab up and running yet so I am relying on  ones
senses and leaving the brew in an air tight bottle overnight. Next brew I
make I will test it by dowsing.
Cheers Tony R
NZ DownUnder

>
> On a different tack - I have some compost tea brewing - yes! aerated tea
> just like the experts tell us to do. Only in my old rectangular milk vat
> with paddle stirrer and sump pump recirculating the brew for aeration. I
am
> struck by how absurdly simple it is to do now that I have got the basic
> principle figured out and have got away from all the hype of fancy,
> expensive, machines, and super duper -you beaut, expensive feeds.
> In 400 gal I put about 40 to 50 lb of good (BD prep'ed) compost (in a bag
> made from plastic flyscreen mesh) , which included a couple double
handfuls
> each of BD Barrel compost and fresh Worm castings. Then for food 2 litres
of
> molasses,1 litre liquid kelp, a beancan of powdered humate. It seems to me
> that low rates of feeding are the key to making aerobic tea with
> "unsuitable" equipment.
> This is just like biodynamics - experts make it seem t complicated
> when its really simple - so people turn away or dont do it for fear of
doing
> it wrong.
> Cheers all
> Lloyd Charles
>
>

Re: TONY R: Off topic posts

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 3:18 AM
Subject: TONY R: Off topic posts

>
> Hey, Tony, help me here. I don't really understand your objection to
> posts that you consider off topic
. is it the bit weight of messages  YES

Hi Allan Some days off topics that do not have much relevance to BD drown
out BD topics and some days good topics are ignored  and new people get
ignored.I have been on this list for 6years now and i do observe this quite
often. I am aware that we have oposing seasons  and when we are busy when
you are snow bound and have nothing to do!
I just delete most off topics it is very easy and I am normally quite
tolerant.  I was just expreesing an opinion why so many people are leaving
this list  because at times  their is not enough  interesting BD discussion
.
I am trying to be pro active.
Regards
Tony R

>

>

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> Tony
>
> It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed.
> G

Glen I  have had a major problem with birds this season in particular
blackbirds,thrushes, starlings  digging plants up out of the ground ,
between 50 -250 plants  at a time. It became so bad this year that I had to
cover crops with netting. it is also very frustrating to get blackberry and
oldmans beard growing in amongst the crops. I even have them digging up
mature broccoli plants in the vege garden.
 Along with sparrow I consider them a noxious pest along with rabbits and
possums. Sparrow poop on flowers does not excite the consumer.
Will bird scare help in this area?

Thanks Ton y

Re: Subscriber exodus

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Subscriber exodus


> I wish to support this being a BD agriculture list and not a political
> hotbed ( to which I have added from time to time)
> GA

 ME Too It is still our busy season here down under and there are too many
off subjects . I am close to  leaving this list myself.
   Regards Tony R

Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message - 
From: "Garuda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends


> We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops.

 Hi Glen. What species of birds?

Thankyou Tony R 

Re: Re [Humore]Theory of Everything these daze

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> >
> > Hi Markess Thanks for this good chuckle. Our organic group has
> > just gone through and experience with our local council in an
> > effort to get the organics industry acknowlegded in there District
> > plan. They turned us down as they did not want to be seen us
> > picking winners,  as it may mean that other industries may want
> > the same thing as well and that would mean  extra work for
> > council.So much for fostering economic developement.
> >
> > Thanks Tony R.
> >
> Who's the council, Tony?
>
> roger
HI Roger
 Horowhenua District Council an elected group of people who are allowing
this area to stagnate.
Cheers Tony R

Re:Re [Humore]Theory of Everything these daze

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Title: Re:Re [Humore]Theory of Everything these daze



 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Moen Creek 
  
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 4:50 
  PM
  Subject: Re:Re [Humore]Theory of 
  Everything these daze
  
  Hi Markess Thanks for this good chuckle. Our 
  organic group has just gone through and experience with our local council in 
  an effort to get the organics industry acknowlegded in there District 
  plan. They turned us down as they did not want to be seen us picking 
  winners,  as it may mean that other industries may want the same 
  thing as well and that would mean  extra work for council.So much 
  for fostering economic developement.
  Thanks Tony 
R. 

Re: Organizing the Work on the Weed Project | Weed Barrier extravaganza

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> How do I find out the details on Steve Storch's
> recipe for sequential spraying?

 Hi Steve Diver  The following are post i have kept from S Storch, the one i
used i have lost due to a computer failure. I have it on hard copy it should
be in BDNOW archives as
SFW Compost Tea for Fertility dated Wed  Jan 16 2002
I am not as advanced as SS in prep making so i have adjusted the ingredients
a little to what is available to me .
All the evening sprays I add worm pee [aka Worm leachate] The worm farms get
alll the BD preps and organic fertilisers, molasses etc this gives me a
smell free material that i can safly use on flowers , since we pick 6 days a
week  this is an important factor.
I start  my spraying the week of full moon and spray every 2 months
Cheers Tony R

> North American Barrel Compost Recipe

1.  501

2.  Barrel Compost

3.  508

4.  505

5.  horn clay

6.  500

7.  501 / 508

This is my spray sequence that I feel is most suitable for the  North
American continent.  I start it off with a silica based barrel compost, I
then proceed through the sprays asap, any questions???
This is  a freebee that took me years to develope, use it or lose it.
Stephen Storch
In a message dated 6/2/01 7:36:08 AM, SBruno75 writes:

<< From mid April to the third week in May we had zero rain.  Our new
planting of strawberries looked fantastic with no irrigation.  Cloudy
weather
and rainy the last two weeks, a few sunny days.  Our strawberries have
ripened and we are already picking a week.  Fantastic color, luster, and
flavour.  So good the birds risk stealing them from the trays at the back of
the store.  I spoke to a chemical farmer yesterday, they won't have
strawberries for two more weeks.  Do you think they will catch on???

spray program

1.  My silica barrel compost recipe (previously posted)...sprayed end of
March, mid April
2.  followed by 501 - basalt spray
3.  500  first week of May
4.  Silica bc - basalt - clay second week of May
5.  501- basalt - clay
6.  pickin' strawberries, boy I wish you guys were here!!!
7.  raining today, 501 - basalt spray this morning

Try it.  SStorch >>

Re: Organizing the Work on the Weed Project

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> Tony -
>
> Nice integration of BD preps with a mulching technique
> to achieve vegetation control, worm action, soil biology
> and a clean bed to transplant into.   also getting the
> muck and magic benefits of the BD preps all at the
> same time.
>
> Steve Diver

Thanks Steve the worm activity is amazing.
I have been thinking of developing this further as i have a particularly
dirty block that i want to plant into  in about 18 months.
 After a soil test I am going to sheet compost with grasses, sawdust, lime ,
animal manure , Steve Storchs sequential spray programme using Glens
Potentised preps and what ever organic fertilisers i need to balance the
soil according to Albrecht and Reams ie 60-70% Calcium, 12%Magesium 3-5%
Potash, 1-2% sodium  aiming to achieve a CEC level of 25%  and a pH of
between 6-7,  and then cover with weed mat until worms have done their
magic.I will follow with a quick green crop and repeat  as above missing out
the soil test this will take 12 months  to next autumn. Before it becomes
too wet final raised beds will be set up . Aftera further check of nutrient
levels, the beds will be mulched with  compost and covered with weed mat,
every 6-8 weeks weed mat will be removed for 10 days to encourage weed seed
germination weed mat is then replaced until spring planting
I will also be monitering brix  pH and erg levels  and making any
adjustments as i see fit.
The aim is have well balanced soil that is pest, disease and weed free for a
crop of gentians that will be planted for 5-6 years.
Thanks Steve for your inspirational reply it triggered off the above idea
siutable for intensive cropping . The area covered will be 50 by 7 metres
and will be planted with 2000 plants. I will also do a similar area next
door with out the weed mat to compare results .

Re: towers of power

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  I will put the tower of power on hold for 
  awhile. I have the plans for Hugh's broadcaster and have not had the time to 
  assemble one. Would like sources for plans of other devices, pyramid sounds 
  interesting. All suggestions and info is appreciated.
  Thanks, Dwayne
  Hi Dwayne  Try this web site for more info . i 
  went to one of Alanna workshops where we built a paramagnetic tower it was 
  very simple and enjoyablr experience.
  Cheers Tony
  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>   
  Australian  ALANNA MOORE was a founder of the Dowsers Society of NSW 
  and has 20 years geomancy experience.  Her new book "Stone Age Farming" 
  is the results of 8 years research(Website: www.geomantica.com).

Organizing the Work on the Weed Project

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> If you are trying to establish wildflowers, then you
> should think twice and then three times about the
> DeWitt Sunbelt Weed Barrier.  As I said, I can
> "guarantee" that you will have a successful planting.

Hi Merla  I have been using this method of weed control for about 5 years.
It has been especially  effective  on couch and  grasses. I spray 500 and
barrel compost before placing weed mat and sit back and wait for all the
worms to gobble up the decaying green matter.
After  removing the weed mat I cover the ground with sawdust and plant up
using plugs.
I have also used black plastic sheeeting It is cheaper but does not last as
long.

Cheers Tony

Re: BD and steam

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 I made a flame weeder about 8 years 
ago,runs on propane gas . 40kg of gas covers about 1 acre.
Brillent on  annual  seedling weeds not 
so good with grasses and perennial weeds. Best results where achieved on the 
afternoon of a leaf day during the  week of full moon.I use mind 3 or 
4 times for stale seed bed  preparation before planting.
Cheers Tony Robinson
Land Down Under

Re: changing focus 501

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Lloyd wrote
> 2.  If your result at Dalgety was a quarter as good as Rogers description
of
> it we could use 501 mid day to flatten those regrowth weeds that cause us
to
> have to cultivate our fallow - we could even take stubbles through to
> another crop - no till BD!!

Hi Lloyd are you thinking about established weeds or weed seedlings?
I am just thinking about how this might work in stale seed bed situation
where you cultivate and then zap emerging weed seeds.
How many times could you do this in season with out throwing things out of
kilter?
Would 501 have a greater impact on roots of perennial weeds then say a weed
burner?

Cheers Tony Robinson
NZ Down Under

NZ HERALD "Cloned animals dying at AgResearch" l4 Nov

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi folks  here is what the scientists are TRYING? to do in New Zealand un
successfully it seems. Trying to modify cows milk for human .
Cheers Tony


> --- Forwarded message follows ---
> Subject:NZ HERALD   "Cloned animals dying at
> AgResearch"  l4 Nov 02
> Date sent:  Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:10:17 +1300
>
> http://www.nzherald.co.nz/storydisplay.cfm?thesection=news&thesubsecti
> on=&st oryID=3004259&reportID=58049
>
> Cloned animals dying at AgResearch
>
> 14.11.2002
> By SIMON COLLINS
> Almost a quarter of the calves and lambs cloned from adult animals by
> Government-owned AgResearch have died within about their first three
> months of life.
>
> AgResearch's cloning programme leader, Dr David Wells, said "errors in
> the pattern of gene expression" had produced some animals with
> deformities that made them "not viable at birth".
>
> The institute had also aborted some calves before birth, and
> slaughtered some cows acting as surrogate mothers when foetuses grew
> too big to be born normally. Scientists performed caesareans to
> deliver others.
>
> But he said that in 35 cases so far where cloned calves had lived and
> produced their own calves by normal sexual reproduction, there was no
> evidence that defects had been passed on to the next generation.
>
> The Hamilton institute said yesterday that it had begun work on
> genetically modifying cows' milk to produce potentially valuable
> medical drugs, in line with a controversial permit granted in
> September.
>
> The institute claims to be the most efficient in the world at cloning
> animals, achieving a 6 per cent survival rate of cloned embryos
> through to weaning at about three months.
>
> Dr Wells said "the vast majority" of cloned calves were delivered
> naturally by surrogate mothers, but "large offspring syndrome", where
> cloned foetuses can grow up to a third larger than normal, "can
> sometimes happen".
>
> "We aim to deliver appropriately sized animals. If there are difficult
> births, they may need assistance in delivering animals, and in extreme
> cases there may be a need for a caesarean section to deliver a calf.
> But they would constitute certainly perhaps 5 per cent of
> pregnancies."
>
> When cases were detected in time, they were aborted.
>
> "We are constantly monitoring pregnancies and detecting any that we
> suspect are developing abnormally, and we would either terminate that
> pregnancy early in gestation ... or we may sacrifice the cow to
> recover the material for further scientific study."
>
> He said it would not be meaningful to state a maternal death rate
> because the decisions to abort the calf or kill the cow were made by
> the scientists.
>
> However, the death rate of cloned calves between birth and weaning was
> 24 per cent, compared with about 5 per cent in normal calves.
>
> Of these, about 2 per cent were put down because of chronic sickness,
> and the rest died unaided.
>
> A further 5 per cent died after weaning, compared with about 3 per
> cent among calves born normally.
>

>

>
>

Re: Other than Jeavons?

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Title: Re: WENDELL BERRY: The Agrarian Standard



 

  
  My only information on biodynamic gardening is 
  from the Jeavons books.  Anything else I should be reading?
   
  Rose
   
   
   Hi Rose  Please excuse the long post but this is a 
  collection of postsfrom the last few years that I have collected  for 
  enquiries like yours.the Acres USA site is full of even more titles. Happy 
  reading.Regards Tony Robinson.New Zealand.Buy as many 
  BD books that you can afford. I'd start with Maria Thun's"Gardening for 
  Life" and I'd get a copy of "Culture and Horticulture"by Storl. Hugh Lovel 
  turned a mountain 'ravine' into a bountifulfarm, so you'll find lots of 
  good information in  his classic "ABiodynamic Farm"(available 
  through ACRES USA   http://www.acresusa.com)This is an excellent site to look for books worth a 
  visit.
  While talking to the ACRES people, pick upNicolas Jolies 
  biodynamic viticulture book. I strongly recommend thatyou read other 
  biological classics so that you gain perspective. Readthe Malibar Farm 
  books, read Fukuoka, Jeavons, "Farmers for FortyCenturies," Sir Albert 
  Howard's titles, and the more recent stuff byAlan Savory and Alan Nation. 
  All of these ideas are being pulledtogether at http://www.gardeningforthefuture.com 
  .Look at the introductory class on www.oregonbd.orgThere are links to 
  other resources on the web in the acknowledgementssection and in the 
  appendix.The best intro is Wolf Storl's "Culture and Horticulture". 
  Maria Thun's"Gardening for Life" is a good intro for gardening. Proctor's 
  "Grasp theNettle" is an intro for farmers. Steiner's lectures are the 
  basis but arevery difficult for a beginner, I wouldn't recommend starting 
  there. When youare ready for the source, Malcolm Gardner's more recent 
  translation of the"Agricultural Lectures" is definitely preferred. Glen 
  has posted somechapters at http://rimu.orcon.net.nz/garuda/Agriccourse/Agricourse.htmlKoepf's 
  textbook is comprehensive tho a bit dull reading. It is, however,one of 
  the few resources completely available on line athttp://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/010114koepf/bda.html==Suggested 
  Reading on Biodynamic Farming:BDFGA (New Zealand).  1989.  
  Biodynamics:  New Directions for Farmingand Gardening in New 
  Zealand.  Random Century New Zealand, Auckland.230 
  p.Castelliz, Katherine.  1980.  Life to the Land:  
  Guidelines toBio-Dynamic Husbandry.  LanthornPress, Peredur, 
  East Grinstead, Sussex, England.72 p.Groh, Trauger, and Steven 
  McFadden.  1997.  Farms of TomorrowRevisited:  Community 
  Supported Farms, Farm Supported Communities.Biodynamic Farming and 
  Gardening Association, Kimberton, PA. 294 p.Lovel, Hugh.  
  1994.  A Biodynamic Farm for Growing Wholesome Food.Acres, USA, 
  Kansas City, MO.  215 p.Koepf, Herbert H.  1989.  The 
  Biodynamic Farm:  Agriculture in theService of the Earth and 
  Humanity. Anthroposophic Press, Hudson, NewYork.  248 
  p.Koepf, Herbert H., Bo D. Pettersson and Wolfgang Schaumann.  
  1976.Biodynamic Agriculture:  An Introduction.  Anthroposophic 
  Press,Hudson, New York.  430 p.Koepf, Herbert H.  
  1993.  Research in Biodynamic Agriculture:Methods and Results.  
  Bio-Dynamic Farming and Gardening Association,Kimberton, PA. 78 
  p.Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1975.  Sensitive Crystallization 
  Processes ( ADemonstration of Formative Forces in the Blood.  
  AnthroposophicPress, Spring Valley, NY. 59 p.Pfeiffer, 
  Ehrenfried.  1981.  Weeds and What They Tell.  
  Bio-DynamicLiterature, Wyoming, RI.  96 p.Pfeiffer, 
  Ehrenfried.  1983.  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and Farming.[collected 
  articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] Volume 1.  Mercury Press,Spring Valley, 
  New York.  126 p.Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1983.  
  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and Farming.[collected articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] 
  Volume 2.  Mercury Press,Spring Valley, New York.  142 
  p.Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1983.  Soil Fertility: Renewal 
  andPreservation.  Lanthorn, East Grinstead, Sussex, England.  
  200 p.Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1984.  Chromatography Applied 
  to QualityTesting.  Bio-Dynamic Literature, Wyoming, RI.  44 
  p.Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1984.  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and 
  Farming.[collected articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] Volume 3.  Mercury 
  Press,Spring Valley, New York.  132 p.Suggested Reading on 
  Biodynamic Farming:  (continued)Podolinsky, Alex.  
  1985.  Bio-Dynamic Agriculture IntroductoryLectures, Volume I.  
  Gavemer Publishing, Sydney, Australia.  190 p.Podolinsky, 
  Alex.  1989.  Bio-Dynamic Agriculture IntroductoryLectures, 
  Volume II.  Gavemer Publishing, Sydney, Australia.  173 
  p.Proctor, Peter.  1997.  Grasp the Nettle:  Making 
  Biodynamic Farmingand Gardening Work.  Random House, Auckland, 
  N.Z.  176 p.Remer, Nicolaus.  1995.  Laws of Life in 
  Agriculture.  Bio-DynamicFarming and Gardening Association, 
  Kimberton, PA.  158 p.Remer, Nikolaus.  1996.  Organic 
  Manure:  Its

Re: Thanks

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Liz Davis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Thanks



>
> Now to do some trial plots of various soils and also some mulches and
attend
> some workshops, such as Stoneage Farming and radionics.  How was it Tony,
> are you practising your dowsing?
>
> Thanks again
> L&L
> Liz

Hi Liz  Congratulations on getting to the end of your years study. Best
wishes for good results.
Yes i went to Allannah Moores seminar and was able to join together another
part of my dream. I found the art of pendulum dowsing very easy and so
rewarding. There was a small group of nine pepole and we did lots of hands
on dowsing looking for cables , underground water flows, looking for a
vortex, map reading , this was really interesting, we all drew maps of our
properties or house and someone else dowsed it looking  for a list of
things.
On my place I have lots of nature spirits ,2 dragon lines, an energy vortex,
and some bad energy spots and an under ground water flow. At the end of the
day the group made a 2 metre paramagnetic tower for the owner of the
property this was blessed by the group owner as his intentions foloweded by
group  singing  ohmsss  followed by Maori song/ blessing led by one of our
group .
A very enjoyable day.
So far at home i have found some  power cables  so i can do some fencing .My
Children  were intriqued  so i dowsed to see if they had done their chores
for the week alas the had not.I am now reading Allanahs book and will  start
to  incorporate dowseing into my work habitsWe taked about many other things
but i shall leave that for you to experience at Allanahs workshop.
 Cheers Tony Robinson
 Down Under New Zealand

Re: information/ books

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "COYOTEHILLFARM" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 12:41 AM
Subject: information/ books


>
> One thing "Information abut Steiner's agricultural
> remedies"  find information/ books and more ? (In the US)
>
> Per Garp/NH

 Hi Per Garp Please excuse the long post but this is a collection of posts
from the last few years that i have collected  for enqiuries like yours.
the Acres USA site is full of even more titles. Happy reading.
Regards Tony Robinson.
New Zealand.



Buy as many BD books that you can afford. I'd start with Maria Thun's
"Gardening for Life" and I'd get a copy of "Culture and Horticulture"
by Storl. Hugh Lovel turned a mountain 'ravine' into a bountiful
farm, so you'll find lots of good information in  his classic "A
Biodynamic Farm"
(available through ACRES USA   http://www.acresusa.com)

While talking to the ACRES people, pick up
Nicolas Jolies biodynamic viticulture book. I strongly recommend that
you read other biological classics so that you gain perspective. Read
the Malibar Farm books, read Fukuoka, Jeavons, "Farmers for Forty
Centuries," Sir Albert Howard's titles, and the more recent stuff by
Alan Savory and Alan Nation. All of these ideas are being pulled
together at http://www.gardeningforthefuture.com .




Look at the introductory class on www.oregonbd.org
There are links to other resources on the web in the acknowledgements
section and in the appendix.

The best intro is Wolf Storl's "Culture and Horticulture". Maria Thun's
"Gardening for Life" is a good intro for gardening. Proctor's "Grasp the
Nettle" is an intro for farmers. Steiner's lectures are the basis but are
very difficult for a beginner, I wouldn't recommend starting there. When you
are ready for the source, Malcolm Gardner's more recent translation of the
"Agricultural Lectures" is definitely preferred. Glen has posted some
chapters at http://rimu.orcon.net.nz/garuda/Agriccourse/Agricourse.html
Koepf's textbook is comprehensive tho a bit dull reading. It is, however,
one of the few resources completely available on line at
http://www.soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/010114koepf/bda.html

==


Suggested Reading on Biodynamic Farming:

BDFGA (New Zealand).  1989.  Biodynamics:  New Directions for Farming
and Gardening in New Zealand.  Random Century New Zealand, Auckland.
230 p.

Castelliz, Katherine.  1980.  Life to the Land:  Guidelines to
Bio-Dynamic Husbandry.  Lanthorn

Press, Peredur, East Grinstead, Sussex, England.
72 p.

Groh, Trauger, and Steven McFadden.  1997.  Farms of Tomorrow
Revisited:  Community Supported Farms, Farm Supported Communities.
Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association, Kimberton, PA. 294 p.

Lovel, Hugh.  1994.  A Biodynamic Farm for Growing Wholesome Food.
Acres, USA, Kansas City, MO.  215 p.

Koepf, Herbert H.  1989.  The Biodynamic Farm:  Agriculture in the
Service of the Earth and Humanity. Anthroposophic Press, Hudson, New
York.  248 p.

Koepf, Herbert H., Bo D. Pettersson and Wolfgang Schaumann.  1976.
Biodynamic Agriculture:  An Introduction.  Anthroposophic Press,
Hudson, New York.  430 p.

Koepf, Herbert H.  1993.  Research in Biodynamic Agriculture:
Methods and Results.  Bio-Dynamic Farming and Gardening Association,
Kimberton, PA. 78 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1975.  Sensitive Crystallization Processes ( A
Demonstration of Formative Forces in the Blood.  Anthroposophic
Press, Spring Valley, NY. 59 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1981.  Weeds and What They Tell.  Bio-Dynamic
Literature, Wyoming, RI.  96 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1983.  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and Farming.
[collected articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] Volume 1.  Mercury Press,
Spring Valley, New York.  126 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1983.  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and Farming.
[collected articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] Volume 2.  Mercury Press,
Spring Valley, New York.  142 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1983.  Soil Fertility: Renewal and
Preservation.  Lanthorn, East Grinstead, Sussex, England.  200 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1984.  Chromatography Applied to Quality
Testing.  Bio-Dynamic Literature, Wyoming, RI.  44 p.

Pfeiffer, Ehrenfried.  1984.  Bio-Dynamic Gardening and Farming.
[collected articles, ca. 1940 - 1961] Volume 3.  Mercury Press,
Spring Valley, New York.  132 p.
Suggested Reading on Biodynamic Farming:  (continued)

Podolinsky, Alex.  1985.  Bio-Dynamic Agriculture Introductory
Lectures, Volume I.  Gavemer Publishing, Sydney, Australia.  190 p.

Podolinsky, Alex.  1989.  Bio-Dynamic Agriculture Introductory
Lectures, Volume II.  Gavemer Publishing, Sydney, Australia.  173 p.

Proctor, Peter.  1997.  Grasp the Nettle:  Making Biodynamic Farming
and Gardening Work.  Random House, Auckland, N.Z.  176 p.

Remer, Nicolaus.  1995.  Laws of Life in Agriculture.  Bio-Dynamic
Farming and Gardening Association, Kimberton, PA.  158 p.

Remer, Nikolaus.  1996.  Organic Manure:  Its Treatment According to
Indications by Rudo

Re: Organic Inputs

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Liz Davis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: Organic Inputs



>
> Whilst here, have any of you attended a Stoneage Farming course by Alanna
> Moore?  Have a chance to go to one in Mudgee in Nov, sounds interesting.
>
  Hi Liz i am going to  her farming  and gardening   course  in  NOV .
Alanna is doing aseries of courses in NZ .
I am looking forward to learning how to dowse.
Cheers Tony
> .
>

>

Re: Nutrient blockers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: Nutrient blockers


> Thanks, Tony. Would you mind being more precise with your
> recommendations, especially in regard to the humic acid? (I guess I
> really need the same info about the molasses, also.) Sort of "Which?
> What Kind of? How Much?" How frequently, and so on?
>
> Thanks! -Allan
  Hi Allan  I use a  certified organic product called Humusol made in
NewZealand from imported raw material derived from Leonardite.

Manufactures recommendation  20 litres/ha autumn/winter followed by 20 L/ha
spring in aminium of 400 litres water  Best results will be obtained with
25-30 ml rain 5-10 days after cultivation.

Because  I like to spray each time I add something /cultivate the soil
during the autumn > I do all my soil prepartion/ bed forming in the autumn
cover with a light layer of  wood chips and leave for the winter to digest I
use the humusol at the rate 1-40.
I spray with  a mixture of 100 litres worm leachate, or water
2.5 litres humusol, 500 gms of Molasses[ I use a 500 gm honey pot and drop
the whole lot into container and stir .
A 10 litre knapsack will cover 300m2 at a slow walking speed.

I then spray again after planting . This springs planting it will become
part of a post planting sequential  spray.

Cheers Tony

Re: Nutrient blockers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message - 
From: "Lloyd Charles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2002 2:38 AM
Subject: Re: Nutrient blockers



- you could try calcium lignosulfonate 

> Lloyd Charles
> >
Hi Lloyd   what is calcium lignosulfonate? please.

I need to boost my sulphate levels to suck up surplus cations especially Mg
This sound  interesting.
Thankyou  Tony 
NZ

Re: Nutrient blockers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "tachung_h" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2002 11:28 PM
Subject: RE: Nutrient blockers


>
> What are the experience from members of this list in using Humic Acid to
> buffer the negative impact of inorganic fertilizer such as NH4 and to
> allow minerals to be easily absorbed by plants.
>
>
>
>
>  Hi  TaChung Huang (¶À¤j©¾)
>  I have been using Humic acid and molasses for exactly this purpose  to
buffer the effects of any inputs and cultivation. They both compensate  any
carbon loss from cultivating and energy use up to assimulate inputs. I have
been using Humic acid for 6 months over the autunm /winter months  and this
spring i have seen some changes for the better. Every time i add some thing
or cultivate the soil i spray with  a mixture of 100 litres worm leachate,
2.5 litres humic acid, 500gms of Molasses[ i use a 500 gm honey pot and drop
the whole lot into container and stir .
A 10 litre knapsack will cover 300m2 at a slow walking speed.

Cheers Tony Robinson

>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On
> Behalf Of Lloyd Charles
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 5:44 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Nutrient blockers
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: tachung_h <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 3:41 AM
> Subject: RE: Nutrient blockers
>
>
> > Hi Lyoyd: Thank you for the kind assistance and explanations. It is
> > very helpful.
> >
> > What does it mean when people say that long term usage of inorganic
> > fertilizer will cause the soil to become acidic? Is it because the
> > fertilizer itself is acidic?
> There are some fertilisers that are acidic but the main cause of soil
> acidity seems to be from chemical reactions involved in the nitrogen
> cycle and breakdown of organic matter There are several mechanisms
> involved 1. The actual chemistry of the fertiliser applied - when
> ammonium NH4 is converted to Nitrate NO3 there is excess hydrogen into
> the soil solution - these fertilisers need about 2kg of lime per kg of
> Nitrogen to neutralise the released hydrogen. 2. Leaching of Nitrate
> leaves excess hydrogen 3. Excess application of nitrogen fertiliser
> burns up soil organic matter leading to further excess of nitrate and
> leaching (this can happen with excessive animal manures too)  Good
> healthy microbial activity will prevent much of this from happening by
> buffering the negative effects, by locking up applied nitrogen and
> releasing it slowly as plants require it.
>
> > Or is it because the calcium is bonded with
> > other ions and leached away?
> Soils low in calcium (unbalanced) require higher inputs (overdosing)of
> salt fertilisers to get a satisfactory yield - the plants are watery,
> brix readings low, and the plants more susceptible to drought stress,
> diseases and insect attack. There is much more to this than I have
> written here L Charles
>
> >
> > Regards
> > TaChung Huang
> >
>
>
>

Re: Organic Inputs

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Liz Davis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: Organic Inputs


> Hi all
>
> Was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction for some
info
> needed for an exam.  It's a soil exam and I'm s tired of costing out
> their NPK, understandable they want their land managers to know how to
> calculate amounts, but their fertilisers are not something I want to work
> with.  Therefore I need % breakdowns of constituents for this exercise.  I
> realise this may be difficult to apply to BD, but other organic inputs
would
> work well.  If anyone knows where I can get such breakdowns I'd like to
> follow through this exam as ecologically as possible.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
> L&L
> Liz
>
Hi Liz   This is what I use on for an intensive flower growing operation.

Fish  6-5-5 N.P.K
Seaweed. 1.5 -.5- 2.5
Feldspar0 - 0 - 9
Horse   .7 -.2 -.4
Poultry 1.3 -  .7 -  .7
Cow.5-0.3-0.7
Blood and Bone meal  7-7-0
Rock dust0-0.52-1.1 - Mg 5.9- Na 2.2Trace elements
PHosphate soft 0-2-0
Greensand [glauconite] 7%K

The products i use in Non toxic CEC  soil balancing
Calcium  36%
Gypsum  23%  Ca 18% S
Calcium Nitrate 15-0-0-19Ca
Sulphate Potash 0-0-50
Sulphate Ammonia  21-0-0-24S

 Do you want the formula for Fertiliser Requirement Calculations  using
 "Base  Saturation" Data

 Some of these values do change a point or two depending on what book you
are reading.
If you get a chance read the following books

> >For further research read
> >Non_Toxic Farming Handbook by Philip Wheeler and Ronald Ward.
> >Science in Agriculture by Arden Anderson
> >Farming in the 21st Century by Dan Skow
> >Source of books Acres USA web site  http://www.acresusa.com
> >
Best wishes with your exams
  Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: Nutrient blockers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: Nutrient blockers


> >For further research read
> >Non_Toxic Farming Handbook by Philip Wheeler and Ronald Ward.
> >Science in Agriculture by Arden Anderson
> >Farming in the 21st Century by Dan Skow
> >Source of books Acres USA web site  http://www.acresusa.com
> >
>
> I'll add to what Tony and Lloyd have said.
> > the albrecht ratios. I feel, however, that with OM below 3.0, I just
> couldn't muster enough microbial buzz to really see any of this stuff
> working.
>
Allan try adding some humic acid  and molasses to your sprays  when you are
doing the ground perparation and adding compost   this will help give the
microbes a buzz untill your organic matter [humus] content is higher enough
to do it naturally.
Use this at soil preparation and until plants are established and the just
use mollasses with your sprays  until harvest. Molasses is the quictest way
to raise  energy levels to overcome problems as you have described. Also a
good boost when plants are under stress.
 Cheers Tony
land down under

Re: Nutrient blockers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Once we get that far then active
> organic matter and microbial activity can do a lot to retrieve the
> situation, the soil critters have a huge capacity to buffer pH, sequester
> (tie up) nutrients that are in oversupply, and to release those that are
> lacking. This takes time and my opinion is that in an intensive growing
> situation - vegetables - fruit trees - cut flowers - any high return
crop -
> the money spent on lime, rock phosphate, rock dust, trace elements should
be
> quickly recovered in increased production and higher quality.
> Once a soil is up and running we can use energetics to sustain it but its
> too much to expect of Biodynamics, Radionics, Homeopathics, or any other
> subtle energy system - if we think that these methods can bring back sick
> soils without some physical application of whats lacking. My opinion
anyway!
> Cheers
> Lloyd Charles

Dear list
 I heartily agree with what Lloyd has said . If your soil nutrient levels
are out of  kilter  for one reason or another   it is  very hard to get BD,
organics to work properly. It has taken me 5 years of  research  and much
help from this list to work out why  BD has not  worked properly on my
property in the last 10 years. The reason being is that my Base Saturation
levels  are way out of kilter  caused by  past management practices. Very
high phosphate and magnesium levels and low potash .Thanks to Phil Wheelers
book Non Toxic Farming I now have   the information to change this . It has
meant using  softer fertilisers like Sulphate of Potash and Sulphate of
Ammonia  and Calcium Sulphate[ gypsum] in small quantities  and the use of
lime  to get the right BS levels along with all the BD preps BC and
potencies   Sulphate of Potash and Sulphate of Ammonia  and Calcium Sulphate
to speed the process up.
To each 50 m2 raised bed 3 m3 of sand sawdust and compost has been applied
to help dilute  the surplus nutrients and to bring organic matter in assist
microbial  activity.
With the use of a brix ,pH,and a conductivity meter,observation and
monitoring of crop production levels  I am now seeing a steady improvement
in crop health. A Foliar feeding programme is also part of this scenario it
is the quickest way to correct any deficiencies during the season   .
For further research read
Non_Toxic Farming Handbook by Philip Wheeler and Ronald Ward.
Science in Agriculture by Arden Anderson
Farming in the 21st Century by Dan Skow
Source of books Acres USA web site  http://www.acresusa.com

This is what I have done with help from this list Thanks
Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: Taking another step.

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: Taking another step.




> At the Mid-Atlantic BD conference you will receive exposure to
> leading farming ideas that lie just outside of the ring of
> biodynamics, such a Elaine Ingham on the Soil Foodweb and Jerry
> Brunetti on Albrecht and Reams approaches to soil health. Lots of
> other great speakers, also. http://www.gardeningforthefuture.com

 Hi Allan I went to an Elaine Ingham  Soil Food Web seminar on the weekend.
wow 7 hours of fantastic information. it was so interesting that I did not
have time to nod of in the afternoon session.
 What I liked about it , is that it is so simple and easy to use , and is
technologically competetive in this tecno driven world and backed with sound
scientific reasoning.
To me it is a very valuable tool  that can be added to small scale intensive
growing especially Flower growing  and if you couple this with CEC
balancing of the soils , and add to it BD wow what a foundation for some
super crops this is about working smarter not harder.
I am just in the process of setting up a 50 litre brewer and will be using
worm compost and Steve Storch's barrel compost recipe and using the brix
meter to monitor and changes.
I had a brief discussion with Elaine  and she was quite excited about the BD
preps in private. she indicated that the difference preps  indicated
differences between fungal and bacterial activity. She indicated that the
test results will be ready for your conference. Privately I felt that she
was quite excited about this.
Elaine is also very interested in learning more about BD  and maybe looking
at better ways to describe BD to farmers. For example she is trying to work
out how to explain the terms etheric and astral  to red neck farmers.
Allan maybe at this conference you, Glen and Hugh could quietly indoctrinate
her in the BD philosophy she would be  superb ambassador.
Just I thought .
 Cheers Tony Robinson
Land Down Under

Re: Ferdy for Australia & New Zealand

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> Dear Allan,
> I will be in Australia and New Zealand from January 13th 2003 until
> February 27th, 2003. Are there any connections you know of where I could
> learn more about BD down'under? All the best Ferdinand
> --
>
>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>
Hi Ferdy If you are travelling by road to the South Island  you go right
past my gate . Do call in for a cuppa tea . email address:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cheers Tony Robinson
Rambler Flowers
86 The Avenue
levin
New Zealand

Attachements

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

***> ATTACHMENT AUTOMATICALLY REMOVED! <**

Re: "struggling with my old solo diaphragm"

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi allan  Before you dismantle anything. Check the nozzle and the spray jet.
It is a simple job just to undo the cap at the end  and you may find your
blockage is in the spray tip. Just poke it out with a pin. If it is a new
sprayer it may be just some rubbish left in the sprayer by the manufacturer.
Most of my blokages occur at the spray tip and for this i have a safety pin
attached to my sprayer.
Cheers Tony
- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 9:41 PM
Subject: "struggling with my old solo diaphragm"


> I recently purchased a new 4-gal SOLO diaphragm sprayer. It worked
> great for the first hour or so and I was very glad that I purchased
> it.
>
> Now it's got this weird thing going on. You pump it a few times and
> it feels 'pumped' but will not spray. I guess this means that the
> outlet is clogged.
>
> It's a nice, clean, pump that's had nothing that wouldn't pass
> through panty hose mesh poured into it. What a hassle to think of
> completely disassembling it to find that blockage.
>
> Or is it not a blockage and just a quirk?
>
> Yesterday I picked up a new 3-gal Shindaiwa backpack sprayer. What a
> dream it appears to be!!
>
> -Allan
>

Re: EM in Australia?

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message - 
From: "Liz Davis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 9:20 AM
Subject: EM in Australia?


> Learnt a great deal from every farm
> I went to, but was most inspired by Effective Micro-organism, natural
> farming.  Having only just started to learn about this method, I am
> interested to know if anyone is using EM in Australia?
> 

Hi Liz I used a similair product called Eco- Grow it is made in Australia.
Try this web site:www.eco-grow.co.nz
Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand Down Under 

 Also This was posted a little while ago to this list from Steve Diver
.
>Please take a look at the following web sites for explanations of EM:
>
>www.emtech.org , www.emtrading.com ,  www.agriton.nl
>there is info also at www.attra.org ,
>http://www.nationalwatercenter.org/natfarm.htm ,

The National Water Center is a small ecological center with a
web page on Zen + Vibrational + Bioregional aspects of water,
located in nearby Eureka Springs.  The article it hosts on
NF & EM is an old version.

The current version in located on my home page, Rhizosphere II:

Nature Farming and Effective Microorganisms
http://ncatark.uark.edu/~steved/Nature-Farm-EM.html

In the U.S., Sustainable Community Development, LLC operating
in Kansas City, MO and Columbia, MO is the distributor for EM,
which you can access through it's web page @ EMtrading.com

Sustainable Community Development, LLC / EMtrading.com
PO Box 14278
Shawnee Mission, KS  66285-4278
913-541-9299
913-541-0380 Fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.emtrading.com

Interesting properties of EM:
1.microbial
2.anti-oxidant
3.magnetic resonance

The magnetic resonance can be understood as a bioenergy field
emanating from the core microbial cluster of lactic acid bacteria,
photosynthetic bacteria, and yeasts, as well as the associated
microbes.

It dovetails with BD theory and Microvita theory in that vital life
force is especially abundant where organic farming is practiced,
and therefore humus management is practiced, and therefore
multitudes of beginning life forms are "juking and jiving."

EM ceramics -- which you will notice at Emtrading -- have EM
embedded into the cermaic structure.  People are wearing EM
ceramic pendants and bracelets for the EM bioenergy field as
well as its anti-oxidative properties.

In Japan, EM is sprayed into building structures during construction.
The thinking is the anti-oxidative properties will help delay "rust"
and prolong building life span.

All the Best,
Steve Diver

 

Re: BD 501 (5x)

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

. Right now, I'm looking for conservative,
> practical answers or for reminders for the things I've forgotten due
> to the fury and flury of CSA farming.
>
> -Allan
>
 Hi Allan.  Look at using Potentised Preps and a Cosmic Pipe to get your BD
out on to the feilds. saves heaps of time.
Cheers Tony Robinson
Nz Down Under.
>

Re: Rattailed maggot and 501-5x

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Dave Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 5:08 AM
Subject: Rattailed maggot and 501-5x



> On the bugs, Tony wrote:
> >They could be rats tail larvae It belongs to one of the
> >fly family not sure which one Could be one of your insect predator flies.
I
> >recall reading in Wolf Storl Book "Culture and Horticulture" that such
> >larvae in compost teas is a good sign that they are ready to be used.
> >I have them in my brews all the time during the summer months.
>
> Here's a bit from Ohio extension brochure
> >Rattailed maggots, known as the larval or immature stage of Syrphid
flies,
> >are about 1-1/4 inches long.
> >The body portion is about three fourth inch long and the tail portion
> >(breathing tube) one half inch long.
> >These maggots are white-colored with the body portion an elongated, oval,
> >cylindrical shape, which is
> >wrinkled and semitransparent, protracting into a long breathing tube
(tail).
> >
> >These larvae of the Syrphid fly live in highly polluted water such as
> >livestock lagoons, polluted
> >abandoned fish pools, foul pools and streams associated with barnyards,
> >etc. Maggots are able to live in
> >the water, if sufficient solids are present as food. The adult flies
> >resemble honey bees in appearance
> >and are often seen "hovering" near the ground in the barnyard vicinity.
> >These flies do not bite or sting
> >humans, and are considered beneficial because they are predaceous on
> >aphids, etc.
>
> I get these maggots in nettle tea etc altho with a much longer breathing
> tube. They are really gross looking but not harmful, just means it's time
> to get the tea out. As it says above, the adults are beneficials. The same
> maggots show up in the compost pile if there is too much wet, sloppy
> foodstuff -- I get them if I add a lot of apple pomace without sufficient
> aeration/heat. Once again, I don't consider them harmful, they break down
> the material and prepare it for digestion in the pile.
>
> ==
> Dave Robison
>
Hi Dave Thanks for the description. This is exactly what  i have and i now
recall seeing
small bees hovering around the drums just thought they were honey bees
looking for a drink.It is always  very rewarding to identify our  beneficial
friends.

Thankyou Tony Robinson
NZ Down Under

Re: Nettle water: its proper use & length of fermentation

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Allan Bballiett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Nettle water: its proper use & length of fermentation


> Thanks much for this info, Tony. I've still got them in the black
> brew. At Chris' encouragement, I started a fresh 5-gallon bkt of
> nettles yesterday. Last batch was 50 gal. Only have enough nettles
> for 5 gallons right now.
>
> Hi Allan  If you are able too spray this  over your flowers 3 times over a
period of several hours in an evening when the brew is about 24-48hrs old.
It should be a thickish syrupy mix.  Use a very fine nozzle.
When mix looses its syrupy state after about 2-3days leave brew for
afurther1- 4weeks until all but the stems have broken  down and  use as a
folair spray at the rate of 1-9. i try to spray 3evening in arow. During
full moon week it is even better.
I have been using this infomation from Maris Thun books for  a number of
years.

Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: Nettle water: its proper use & length of fermentation

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "Chris Shade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: Nettle water: its proper use & length of fermentation


> Allan,
>
> .
>
> Chris
> --- Allan Balliett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > the strangest are .5inch long worms that seem to
> > have flagellum and
> > have legs. They look like cut worms with tails or
> > propellors. Anyone
> > know what they may be the larvae for?
> >
>
> > -ALLAN
> >
>  Hi Chris ,Allan  They could be rats tail larvae It belongs to one of the
fly family not sure which one Could be one of your insect predator flies. I
recall reading in Wolf Storl Book "Culture and Horticulture" that such
larvae in compost teas is a good sign that they are ready to be used.
I have them in my brews all the time during the summer months.
Cheers Tony Robinson
 NZ down under
>
>

Re: Insect peppers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  - 
   
  
 
Subject: Re: Insect peppers

 

  Hi all had a slug problem way back in 1994 They were 
  decimating a quarter of an acre of daffodils. So one night at full moon I 
  collected about 100 slugs /snails placed then into a container with 
  about 2 litres of water and let them rot away  until the next 
  full moon . I then diluted this mix one in 10 and sprayed 3 
  nights in row and repeated the exercise  the following 
  month.
  I started to harvesting this crop again in 95 and have 
  been able to do so since with very little slug damage. It will be 
  interesting to see what happens this year.
  Cheers Tony Robinson  
  Hi Tony and all 
  There is a reference to decomposing insects for pepper 
  in about the middle of lecture six - I'm surprised more people have not 
  picked this up
  Lloyd Charles
  Hi Lloyd   It was that and Maria Thun passage in her book 
  Work on the Land and the Constellation page 41 that encouraged me to try 
  this method. I used just water so it was pretty smelly stuff. The kids 
  have just started to pick these flowers So i must get out and checkand see 
  what has happen after about 6-7 years .
  Cheers Tony

Re: Insect peppers

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

 

  - Original Message . I gathered 
  some slugs (quite a few) into a bottle of alcohol and, absent minded, left 
  them on the front porch for a couple of months in the sun. When their 
  mates decided to eat all my wifes strawberries and I went looking for the 
  bodies for cremation there was only some brown mucky liquid in the bottle (90 
  proof spirit so burning this lot is going to be interesting) I just 
  used it as was to make a D8 potency and put that out with a water can - 
  spectacular result!! 
    The slug one worked so well that I decided to try 
  again when we got a few white ants in the back of our house - this time I 
  meant to do it - some termites - these boys are pretty active they ate my 
  1inch hardwood tomato stakes clean through three times in the one season last 
  year - from a trap box in the yard went into a bottle of water with a bit of 
  solubilised ant dirt from the burrows, put in the sun on the window sill for 
  about a week or so and then potentised up - six different potencies from D8 up 
  to 5mm mixed together and drizzled round once about six weeks ago - this one 
  is looking good at this stage too. These were instrument potencies in both 
  cases so there was no actual substance left the bottles - its not a fungus or 
  disease effect!  Sounds crazy I know but it really 
  worked!
    Cheers all 
  Lloyd Charles
   
   Hi all had a slug problem way back in 1994 They were 
  decimating a quarter of an acre of daffodils. So one night at full moon I 
  collected about 100 slugs /snails placed then into a container with 
  about 2 litres of water and let them rot away  until the next full 
  moon . I then diluted this mix one in 10 and sprayed 3 nights in row 
  and repeated the exercise  the following month.
  I started to harvesting this crop again in 95 and have been 
  able to do so since with very little slug damage. It will be interesting 
  to see what happens this year.
  Cheers Tony 
Robinson  

boron question

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi all  I am way behind the eight ball at the moment.My old computer died of
memory loss . So i had to buy a new one. Been away to my sons hockey
tournement. They won the tournement Cup and i have just come out of hospital
after having a hernia operation. my apologies if this is abit late.
I remember someone was having problems with boron.
There are two ways to fix  trace element deficiencies, like boron.
1.Is to use a foliar   spray  programme  made from fish, seaweed,
chicken, and horse manure with  molasses added as a buffer/ carrier.This
gives you a short term immediate fix to the plant and will allow you to
harvest a crop.
2  Make up a dry fertiliser mix of fish, seaweed, rockdust, and humic acid
and side dress your crop and lightly work into the soilwill become available
to plant s  over time.
This mix added to the  compost heap will provide adequate nutrients for
following years.
If you need to add raw borate mix  it with compost and humic acid before
spreading  and add it to the liquid fertiliser. This act   as a buffer and
helps to assimualte the boron into a plant usable form more readily.
Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: Drip Tape

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

- Original Message -
From: "aballiett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 5:00 AM
Subject: Re: Drip Tape


What tape/hose are you using for drip
T tape  That drips at every 20 cm.

Re: Drip Tape

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

> Is anyone using t-tape to get BC out in the root zone on a regular basis?
>
> Hi Allan  Yes i have being putting all the preps through both trickle and
over head irrigation. All my liqiud fertiliser brews have BC in them and are
fed to crops on a weekly basis . It is a quick and efficient way of getting
them out on to paddocks when you are busy.
I see it as no different then using compost as the medium for getting the
preps out..
particularly when you are bring new ground in to the bd fold.
Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: Incorporating Manures During the Growing Season

[Rambler Flowers LTD]

Hi Allan  Chicken litter is strong on nitrogen  so it will make any crop you
plant grow rapidlyand hence prone to insect attack . Before spading in
spread some humic powder over chicken manure and also spray with some
molasses. This will soak up some of the excess nitrogen and hold it for next
year. Humic powder is a good alternative if you are low on compost. if you
are able to mix it with the chicken litter  it will allow you to spread the
litter further.
Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand
- Original Message -
From: "A Balliett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 10:09 PM
Subject: Incorporating Manures During the Growing Season


> I probably need someone to slap me silly on this one, but maybe not.
>
> I'm managing a 163 share CSA this season and, for a variety of
> reasons, have been operating with a compost deficit all season. Now
> we're coming to plantingtime for the fall crops and I'm wondering
> about incorporating all that beautiful chicken litter that's accrued
> in the coop since this spring in beds before planting.
>
> As you know, my motto has always been 'compost, compost, and more
> compost,' but this year it's gone faster than I can make it plus a
> friend here in VA is growing circles around me thanks (in part, I'm
> sure) o the poop he incorporated last fall
>
> What say? I'm talking maybe two pickup loads into two 400 sq ft
> raised beds, spraying with BC and Field Spray, spading in, and
> letting it sit for, say 3 weeks before planting brassica's into it.
>
> It's the devil talking, I'm sure, but I can find the time to
> incorporate the litter but am not likely to find the time to make an
> appropriate compost stack out of it until the fall.
>
> Advice, please.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Allan
>
>

Re: clay soil

[Rambler]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Thank you for your further ideas on working with clay soil.  Could you
> describe your molasses tea proportions?
Cordelia Because I crop flowers/foliage all year round under cover  
I use 1kg of molasses to 100 litres of brew. This is used at the rate of
1L to 40L on a weekly basis . It is applied through trickle
irrigation,over head sprinklers or as a foliar spray depending on my
objective. I spray for crop protection and crop health, and i liquid
feed the soilto bring it into balanceand to correct soil defiencies..

As you are just starting out make use of your weeds as foliar teas. weed
will tell you what is wrong with your soil. To this add some fish meal
kelp,animal manure and barrel compost.The more often you stir the
quicker it is ready.
What are your weeds?

Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: Notes on Compost Teas, a new publication

[Rambler]

Hi Cordelia Some notes on compost Teas


> 
> Forwarding this announcement from Sanet, a new publication
> from ATTRA called "Notes on Compost Teas."
> 
> Steve Diver
> 
> -
> New item on the ATTRA web page:
> 
> Notes on Compost Teas: A Supplement to Compost Teas for
> Plant Disease Control
> http://www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/PDF/compost-tea-notes.pdf
> A 19-page PDF download with text and slides (March, 2002)
> 
> Compost teas are a hot topic in organic agriculture.
> 
> The rhizosphere and the phyllosphere are those zones of rich
> biological activity on the root and leaf surfaces.  That is
> where the spores from pathogens land and then germinate and
> get a hold on plants which result in diseases like early blight,
> anthracnose, and powdery mildew.
> 
> Yet, with compost teas you have an opportuntity to inoculate
> these plant surfaces with a healthy population of diverse
> beneficial microrganisms which fight the bad guys and save
> your crops from disease outbreaks.
> 
> Organic growers, prohibited from using synthetic fungicides
> to control diseases, are taking to compost teas
> like a mud salamander to water after a long Texas drought.
> 
> Yet, disease control is just one of the benefits of compost
> tea application. They also provide soluble nutrients,
> enzymes, bioactive compounds, and other substances.
> Crops tend to green up and look strong and healthy
> after a dose of compost teas.  In some instances remarkable
> yield increases have been recorded. Well, if you are an agricultural
> field that's been regularly dosed with chemicals and suffered
> from tillage overkill for 20 years, and then one day a biological
> farmer comes along with a cup of microbial tea, you would
> be singing "green acres and sunshine", too.  Such is the case in
> California on a number of "conventional" farms converted to
> "biological" farming.  Soils that were becoming hard as a rock
> and a haven for soil-borne diseases have been reclaimed with
> bulk composts and compost teas.
> 
> "Notes on Compost Teas" provides a summary of liquid extracts
> and compost tea brewing methods, it has a list of compost
> tea brewing equipment, and it has a large selection of web
> resources which you can look through for background reading
> and research on this topic.  The other section I think
> you will find interesting is Elaine Ingham's data on
> characteristics of a healthy soil foodweb, minimum standards
> for compost, and minimum standards for compost teas.
> 
> Of special interest is the section titled "Key Literature,"
> which contains several OFRF research reports, a pointer to
> SFI's "Compost Tea Brewing Manual," and compost tea reports
> from William Brinton's at Woods End Agricultural Research
> Laboratory.
> 
> There is also a section with slides that provide a
> complementary presentation on compost teas, including
> microscopic close-up views of the phyllosphere. It is
> a jungle out there on the leaf surface, with hundreds
> of species of microbes living there amidst the undulating
> epidermal surfaces covered with a forest of trichomes.
> 
> Best wishes on the Spring Equinox,
> Steve Diver
> 
> ===
> Appropriate Technology Transfer for Rural Areas (ATTRA)
> P.O. Box 3657
> Fayetteville, AR 72702
> 800-346-9140
> 501-442-9842 Fax
> http://www.attra.ncat.org
> 
> ATTRA is a project of NCAT - National Center for
> Appropriate Technology
> 

The first year of going organic

[Rambler]

ersity of Ryukus in Japan with the objective of
> effectively working  together to create living soil capable of
> producing high yields of
> crops while sustaining its own processes
>  and eventually becoming capable of
> 
> synthesising its own nutrients.
> Each formulation (EM2, EM3, EM4) is dominated by a different group of
> organisms that work together to create a specific result.
> EM1 is a combination of EM2, EM3 and EM4
> EM2 and EM3 are used on growing crops to help make nutrients available from
> organic matter and minerals in the soil.
> EM2 formula is dominated by yeast, photosynthetic bacteria and ray fungi;
> EM3 formula is dominated by photosynthetic bacteria, azotobacters and
> actinomycetes.
> EM4 is used to help decompose crop residues and other forms of organic
> matter added to the soil. EM4 formula is dominated by lactobacilli.
> Research with EM is underway in the United States and elsewhere. It has been
> extensively researched in Japan and is widely used by thousands of farmers
> there.
> In Nature Farming, we attempt to promote the development of a living soil.
> We follow the role model we observe in nature. We avoid all biocides, even
> organic ones, and all synthetic chemicals and additives. This helps preserve
> the living nature of healthy soil. Chemical fertilizers, pesticides,
> herbicides and defoliants, and especially soil fumigants, all destroy part
> or all of the normal soil microflora.
> 
> We fertilise with compost and incorporate residues of crops and green
> manures into the soil. We also treat the soil with Effective Microorganism
> (EM), especially during the transitional phase when we are converting land
> that has been farmed chemically in the past. The microbial inoculants help
> establish a good balance of micro-organisms in the soil. The effectiveness
> of these inoculants is not based on the numbers of organisms or the volume
> of the material applied. Rather, it is based on the fact that we are
> applying formulations that are composed of complex communities, that are in
> balance and operating in a symbiotic manner. The species diversity of the
> inoculants helps to supply the missing links in the microflora of the soil,
> and the enzymes present in the inoculants help to create enzyme bridges that
> link up the natural communities in the soil and allow them to work together.
> In this way, the life of the soil is enhanced.
> According to Dr. Higa, soils that have been treated with agricultural
> chemicals are disease-inducing soils. The balance of normal microflora has
> been upset and disease organisms take over dominance in the soil. Soil-borne
> diseases then become a problem. When we stop using these harsh chemicals and
> start using compost and effective micro-organisms, the soil quickly becomes
> disease-resistant due to the natural competition between the beneficial
> organisms and the disease organisms. Over a period of a few years, the soil
> becomes highly balanced, zymogenic, and eventually synthesises most of its
> own nutrients."
> For more info look up Nature Farming and Effective Microorganisms
http://ncatark.uark.edu/~steved/Nature-Farm-EM.html


Cheer Tony Robinson
Rambler FLowers
New Zealand

Re: clay soil

[Rambler]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Dear BD farmers,
> 
> This is my first query to all of you.  We have just moved to some land
> in
> southern Maine and have just rototilled our first patch of soil with
> the
> hopes of working this land biodynamically.
> 

Hi Cordelia. What Lloyd says is starting to work for me. to this also
use raised beds  aids drainage and helps the soi to warm up in the
spring.I am also adding sand and sawdust to the raised beds this helps
to aerate tight soils. Also adds potash and carbon. Each time i add an
amendent or cultivate  the soil I spray with a liquid tea molasses
barrell compost brew.
If you need to use a rototiller use it a the slowest speed possilbe  so
it just gently mixes the soil  to about 2-3  inches deep.
A mixture of buckwheat and blue lupinas a green crop will help.Buckwheat
is very ggod at breaking up clay soils as it brings in calcium.   
In about 3 years you should be seeingsome good results.

Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Flowforms

[Rambler]

Hi Merla Try this NewZealand site on flowforms. Some great pictures

http://www.FlowformsPacific.com/index.html

Fertigation

[Rambler]

Hi Allan 
I have been using a very simple and cheap venturi injecter pump called a
Mazzei Injector."It is a  high efficiency venturi type,differentail
pressure injector.It has a patent design that permits them to start
suction in most models when the outlet pressure is only 20% less than
the inlet pressure" 50% pressure differencial is the optimum working
level.
It works very effectivly using T tape trickle irrigation. The smallest
set up is 4 x 50m beds with 2 lines per bed ie 400 linear metres of T
tape
I also use on an overhead irrigation system at a different setting.
When i had to replace an old proportionater pump it was going to cost
$1200NZ. The Mazzei injector cost $140 and does the same job.
The model i use covers 2 acres.  

Mazzei Injector Corporation
11101 Mountain Road,R5. Bakersfield, California 93307 USA
PHone (805)845-2253 Fax (805)845-3302

Cheers Tony Robinson
NEw Zealand

Sprayers

[Rambler]

Pam DeTray wrote:
> 
> OK this will make you laugh-- when I read your message, I had to do an Internet 
>search to find my sprayer! Couldn't remember, and it's over at the farm! Yep, I'm 
>blonde.
> It's an SB2, and I found their web site, so will spend some time studying whatever 
>they have. The store I went to didn't have any Solo sprayers, but the clerk 
>recommended this one. I hope it will work for compost teas, but it does say high 
>pressure.
> I still would appreciate reading about others' experience with and knowledge of 
>these things. I'm a little overwhelmed by it right now, but I hope it will help me 
>manage the land properly.
> Pam

Hi Pam. A 15 litre sprayer will do the job perfectly for you.
Pressure is determined by nozzle size and how often you pump the handle.
When spraying get into a rhythm ie 1 step 1 pump with the handle. I can
cover about 1/2 acre this way in about one hour .
For nozzles i use a Fan nozzle that gives a spread of about 1-1.5 metres
wide. For Ground sprays ie 500, Barrel Compost, Compost Teas Foliars
sprays I use a size 5 or 6 [large hole] a course spray. For
501,eqiusetum, i use a size 2 nozzle  a fine spray. I clip this to back
of knapsack into the wand holder face the nozzle to the back and awway
you go.
When loading and unloading use a box or table ,much easier on the back.
I only fill mine to 10 litres not so heavy on the back.  
My sprayers last about 10 years before they wear out.
When starting from scratch keep your area small do not get to big to
quickly. Read John Jeavons book HOw to Grow more Vegatables" than you
ever thought possble on less land than you can imagine" It is full of
some useful ideas.
Good luck 
Cheers Tony
PS We are all blonds in our family of four it the best hair color in the
world.

Re: Testing Tea Locally

[Rambler]

Allan Balliett wrote:
> 
> Are there some tests that ag univeristies can or would do on compost
> teas that would give a farmer some feed back on how well his brewing
> is going?
> 
> How expensive is equipment like the Oxygen sensors that Cheryl has mentioned.
> 
> I, for one, really crave immediate feedback on how tea is progressing
> and when it is as 'brewed' as it's going to get.
> 
> I realize that none of these suggestions are a replacement for
> regular testing at SFI.
> 
> -Allan
 Hi Allan  I wonder if a conductivity meter and/or a brix meter could be
a simple way to test your compost teas. There may be some measurable
level that will indicate a perfect brew.

Cheers Tony.R
NZ

Re: Oak leaves

[Rambler]

Anthony Nelson-Smith wrote:
> 
> Tony - is vit B12 really that thermally stable?
> Tony N-S.

Hi Tony I don't know, thanks for the tip. Soaking the leaves takes
longer and is simpler.
It was a tip from Dan Skow[ Mainline Farming] that it is a good source
of Vit. B12 So i just used in my foliar sprays. 
Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: Oak leaves

[Rambler]

Dorothy O'Brien wrote:
> 
> Hey-- sorry to be so uninformed here--do you use the
> fallen oak leaves which are obviously brown, or new
> green oak leaves for this potion?  thanks, Dorothy
> 
Hii Dorothy i used mature green oak leaves pluked off the tree fresh.

Oak leaves

[Rambler]

Stephen Barrow wrote:
> 
> In addition to Dave Robison's reply, and applying Ca in one form or another:
> I have added oak leaves to garden beds, with the intention of eliminating a
> snail and slug problem , but which also resulted in increased friability (as
> would be expected) of the high clay (>45%) soil which I was working with at
> that stage.  The interesting realisation for me now is that this improved
> friability lasted for at least another 8 years, compared to shorter term
> benefits from applying compost only.  My take on this now is that possibly
> the high concentration of Ca added through the oak leaves had the effect
> that Dave has described, compared to more diluted Ca through compost.
> 
> The feasibility of this route depends of course on the scale of operation.
> 
> Stephen Barrow

 Hi Stephen. Oak leaves also contain Natural Vitamin B I2 which is
needed to help stimulate microbial activity on tight clay type soils
I collect the leaves oak leaves soak them for several days then simmer
them gently for several hours over a gas flame  leave for a few more
days and then bottle. This is then added to sprays and liqiud feeds  at
1%. Sometimes sprayed at 1-10 when slugs snails are around.I also add
molasses  to these sprays.

Cheers Tony Robinson

Cheers Tony

Re: BDNOW digest 1078

[Rambler]

Dave Robison wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have an email address to obtain this report? The NZ website has
> no contact info.
> 
> >   Dear Organic Friends,
> >
> >
> >   The Research and Development Group of the Bio Dynamic
> >   Farming and Gardening Assn. has just finished a research
> >   report
> >   Frank van Steensel (M.Ag.Sc., B.Ag/Hort)
> >   Research Manager of the Research and Development Group of
> >   the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening ass.
> 
> ==
> Dave Robison

Hi Dave Try author Frank van Steensel: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
or NZBDA: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Cheers Tony R

Re: CEC balancing for ornamentals

[Rambler]

Rambler wrote:
> 
> Jose Luiz Moreira Garcia wrote:
> > .
> >  What is your CEC by the way ?
> > I need to know also your humus content.
> > Tell me any figure regarding Ca, Mg, K, Na and also your micro nutrient
> > levels such as Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu and Boron. Once your soil is put in the
> > Albrecht ratios a special attention has to be given to the micronutrients.
> > Knowing those numbers it allows me to give you some suggestions.
> > However, I might warn you that the numbers vary from lab to lab and
> > a 65% calcium reading from one lab may not be the same 65% figure
> > from another lab. Knowing that limitation we can take my advise as a
> > guideline
> > and not as any absolute figure that would need to be strickly followed.
> >
> 
>  Thankyou Jose and Lloyd for your most helpful replies.I am now starting
> to build a picture of what i have done to my soil. I look forward to
> your guiding comments.
>  I have looked back at my old notes from the 1980,s. I grew alot of
> Gypsophlia and statices during that period.They are lime and magnesium
> lovers  so plenty of dolomite lime was used up until about 1993 This was
> went i changed to BD.
> The following is a BRookside test taken july 2000
> Total Exchange Capacity [ME/100g] 25.73
> pH7.1
> Organic Matter[hummus%]   8.72
> Soluble Sulphurppm80
> Phosphorus
> Easily extractable kg/ha p as P205  3447
>ppm  of p672
> Bray 11kg/ha Pas P205   1185
>ppm  of P231
> Olsen  kg/ha431
>ppm of P 84
> Calciumkg/ha8691
>ppm  3880
> Magnesium  kg/ha1292
>ppm   577
> Potassium  kg/ha 661
>ppm   295
> Sodium kg/ha 314
>ppm   140
> Aluminium  [KCL ext] kg/ha31
>ppm14
> 
> Base Saturation Percent
> Ca  % 75.4
> Mg  % 18.69
> K   % 2.94
> Na  % 2.37
> Al  % 0.60
> H   % 0.00
> Extractable Minors
> Boron[ppm] 1.62
> Iron [ppm] 236
> Manganese [ppm] 39
> Copper [ppm]2.98
> zinc   [ppm]19.47
> Aluminum {ppm]  730
> N03-N   22.6
> NH3-N   1.5
> Total Acidity [ME/100] 0
> cobalt[ppm]0.01
> Molybdenum 0.39
> 
>  Thankyou
>  Tony Robinson
>  Rambler FLowers
> > > New Zealand
> > >

Kisss Merlas road

[Rambler]

Merla Your road project is a wonderful idea keep going use the KISSS
formula Keep IT Simple,Stressfree, Successful.

The weeds indicate an acid soil with a high potassium loading, a lack of
calcium and poor organic matter content.I feel that the pfeiffer spray
may not be of much benefit to this situation due to the lack of organic
matter. Ifeel that a barrel compost made using Steve STorch method that
is all the PREPS including horn clay and maybe with some of the pfieffer
spray as well. If you make this on your own property it may solve many
of your legal problems.
I agree with Dave Robisons post mulching and mowing weeds before they
set seed is the best method.I also would suggest that you look at sowing
wild flower seeds straight after mowing and let nature help you.USE wild
flower seeds that are suitable to your soil type. If you also sow seed
just before the snow thaws this will water and feed young seedlings and
help them become established.Blue lupin and clover mixed with the rye
and oats also makes a good green crop.
A year or so back someone on this list set up some wild flower plots.  
Once you have the intial planting established let nature help you  in
ayrer or two,s time you will have the most attractive road in the
county.
In New Zealand they have been running trial plantings of wild flowers 
and it hasnow been accepted nation wide i believe.

Good luck and best wishesand may nature provide.
Tony Robinson 
NewZealand

Re: Green manures and Pfeiffer preps

[Rambler]

Stephen Barrow wrote:
 Alternatively, how does one kill off weeds in an organic no-till
approach?
 
Hi Steve I use black plastic sheeting 4mx50mheld down with old tyres,
clay pipes,logs to kill pasture weeds before i cultivate for raised beds
i spray Steve Storchs barrel compost receipe that has all the preps in
it 500,501,502-508 and horn clay. The worms work right up surface of the
soil under the plastic. They pull all the green matter down into the
soil. If i can i green crop with blue lupin, top it, spray it and cover
it the same day. Blue lupin is broadcast amongst the weeds when they are
only a few inches high so i do not have to cultivate.
please note the plastic does not make the soil sour. This only happens
if the plastic is sealed or coverd and is down for a very long time. I
get the highest worm count under plastic. I am also trialling weed matt
i find that this works better as it lets the rain through and is easier
to shift and to peg down.

Cheers Tony Robinson

CEc balancing i for ornamental

[Rambler]

Hi Lloyd, Jose, Tim 

I am part way through reading Albrecht vol 1 and have some questions.

1. Are there different CEC ratios for different crops?

2  Are there different CEC ratios for different soil Ph?

3  Are there different CEC ratios for different soils?

I grow ornamental crops ie perennial flowers and all year round
harvesting of cut ferns. 
I have a heavy clay soil and all my crops require a ph of between 5-6

In vol 1 Albrecht is mainly discussing grain and lequme crops that grow
in  a ph range 6-7. As i have been reading  the above qeustions have
come to mind. Any thoughts please.I am working with soils that have been
thrashed to death after 20 years  of chemical farming. All my crops are
perenials and take 2 years to replace  and bring into full production
again. Progress is very slow and i still have a very large morgage to
clear before i achieve a level of sustainability.

Thankyou
Tony Robinson
Rambler FLowers
New Zealand

Re: "Sharp" Sand for potting mix

[Rambler]

Aurora Farm wrote:
> 
> Tony:
> 
> Rambler writes: <>
> 
> How _do_ you get those worms to pee in a cup for you?
> 
> Hi Woody
They actually do it in a bath set up on an angle with a 2o litre bucket
under the drain hole. They always pee better when it rains it is a
lovely golden sweet smelling  brew that does not leave a smell on the
flowers and there is hundreds of them in a bath working happly together
for nothing except a fresh layer of organic mattersome fish, seaweed,
rockdust, clay nettles comphrey grass barrel compost once a month
I suppose i should get all technical and call it "worm leachate"having a
good chuckle now and then makes me feel better. I have 6  baths working
and since it has rained all night i had better go a empty the potties
Cheers with a chuckle
 Tony Robinson
 Rambler Flowers
 NewZealand

Re: "Sharp" Sand for potting mix

[Rambler]

Allan Balliett wrote:
> 
> I'm going a little nutty right now, trying to learn a jargon so I can
> speak with people who are quite a drive from me and who really don't
> have the time to spoon feed the ignorant.
> 
> I'm looking to buy a few yards of 'crushed gravel sand' to use in a
> potting mix formulation recommended by Heinz Grotzke in "Biodynamic
> Greenhouse Management."
> 
> So far, I've been offered trap dust and 1/4inch (and lower) stuff
> from a realatively close-by quarry. If I can communicate screen size,
> I think I can buy what I need.
> 
> AND, I would assume that it's cool to take basalt instead of granite, eh?
> 
> Which is to say that I've found a source for basalt trap dust down
> here. My recollection is that it tests very highly on the Callahan
> scale (paramagnetics), but I'll have to have it tested again.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> _Allan

Hi Allan I use a basalt rock dust in my potting mixes . i also add about
10% fine clay dust from my own subsoil. This brings in a bit more
phosphate and the clay infuence to a potting mix . For sand i use about
10% any more then that and your seedling trays become too heavy to lift
and carry.
The best seed sowing/potting mix is made with leaf mould. Each year I
make up a ix to be used the following year.To a collection of 60%
softwood and 30% hard wood  leaves mixed with seed free grass or a green
crop. I add 10% fine sand 10% fine clay 10% chicken manure, 10% cow
manure, alight sprinkling of lime.Prep500,502-508. Each time i turn the
pile i add armfulls of comphrey and nettle, 20 litre bucket of worm
castings from the worm farm to kick start the process  and  sprinkle a
handful of Barrel Compost over the pile. I keep the heap covered with 
weedmat that allows rain through but keeps out the birds and prevents
weed seed contamination. It also keeps the temperture more even and
bring the worms evenly through the whole heap. this make a very good
friable mix ready to use with out any screening except to cover the
seeds.I also use this as apotting mix by adding some fish and seaweed
meal about a month before use.All seedlings are then sprayed twice month
with a foliar tea. At planting time all plants are dipped into  Rooting
Compound  from Garuda Biodynamics to which i add  worm pee.

Cheers Tony Robinson 
Rambler Flowers 
NewZealand 

Cheers Tony

Re: NZ Teachers and Innovators

[Rambler]

Peter Bacchus is the Chairman of NZBDA and he is working from the top
down to widen the horizons  of the BD movement, to introduce new
technogies, build bridges  so that BD can move forward and play its part
in producing sustainable and healthy food.

ON the farm my focus has been to DO IT. The last 2 years i have been
using and observing the benifits of a Cosmic Pipe, Potentised Preps,
Compost Teas/liquid feeds,Effective Microorganisms, and Mineralised
Composts for high value intensive growing. This year i will add to this
list sequencial spraying and brix testing to moniter progress  
Off the farm i have been involved in setting up ORGRO  an industry
cluster group.This has involved the 2 ORGANIC RIVER FESTIVALS to promote
organics. The writing and printing of the Organic Agriculture Resource
Directory. Lobbying local body councils on the benefits of making the
Horowhenua "AN ORGANIC AREA OF EXCELLENTS" and trying to keep out GE.
ALso i organised THE HUGH LOVEL seminarsin NZ and have continued to hold
local seminars on my place and have hosted visits from local polytech
institutes which usally last 3hrs.

Family i mustn't forget my 2 sport mad kids and the mad dash to get to
ballet,tap dance, hockey and rep hockey and all the practises on time.

Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: BD 508 as inoculant; stinging nettle

[Rambler]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 

  Nettles is for weed suppression and flavor enhancement and nitrogen,

Hi Steve How do nettles supress weeds?

Thanks Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: BD 508 as inoculant

[Rambler]

Frank Teuton wrote:
> 
> >
> > My understanding was that for trees it is preferred that fungi were
> > predominant, for grasses bacteria is the preferred predominant. For
> > veggies and flowers, and the like, I thought it was about 50% fungi and
> > 50% bacteria.
> >
> > Did I misunderstand?
> 
> Hi Bonnie,
> 
> Yes it is more complicated than that. Among grasses, as among the row crop
> vegetables, there is a spectrum of needs and tolerances. Elaine discusses
> this in some of her audio CDs  on the soil foodweb.  For example, Poa
> pratensis, which we refer to as Kentucky bluegrass, is a grass which needs
> strong bacterial dominance. Fescues like it with more fungus, still
> bacterial but less so. And so on.
> 
> Brassicas, says Ingham, are at the strong bacterial dominance end of the
> spectrum. I suppose this means that brassica root exudates select strongly
> for bacterial mutualists.  In a rich organic soil with the presence of a
> suitable array of such bacteria, I assume that brassicas can have the
> bacterial services they seek, even if there are also a lot of fungus
> species/presence.
> 
> The old JI Rodale literature contains several references to people who had
> rich composted soils that they were able to grow a wide spectrum of
> different plants in. The explanation offered, as I recall, was that
> compost/humus/soil organic matter had great buffering capacity (the pH
> thing).
> 
> I think it is more likely that the rich, diverse foodweb in such composted
> soil had a full panoply of choices for each kind of plant to draw on in
> organizing microbial teams for its roots and leaves. Those teams could then
> mediate between the plants and the soil and get each plant what it needed.
> 
> One thing I like about Ingham's stuff is she uses 'who' for organisms
> instead of 'what', as in 'let's see who's in there.' That suggests a sort of
> intimacy that we also of course need to have with our plants, as in not only
> are you a flower/veggie, but which one are you, which cultivar, what do you
> need from my growing?
> 
> The bacterial/fungal dominance issue can only be part of our answers to
> those questions.
> 
> Frank

HI Frank  Some plants seem to dominate there patch off ground and
prevent others from growing is this because the can dominate their
bacterial/fungal requirments  to excude other plants? I am thinking of
the fact that some plants are antagonist towards each other and do not
like being planted together or after each other.
Fascinating subject.
Cheers Tony Robinson
NewZealand

Re: NZ Teachers and Innovators

[Rambler]

Hi AAllan Balliett wrote:
> 
> Looking into BD in NZ a little bit. Not getting very far, of course.
> 
> Can someone tell me who stands out in NZ BD, aside from Mssrs Proctor
> and Atkinson?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Allan
Hi Allan

Add Peter Bacchus


Yea and ME along with a series of loud chuckles

Chucking cheerfully Tony.
NZ largest BD Flower Grower.

Re: Tractor Turnaround space

[Rambler]

Allan Balliett wrote:
> 
> 
Allan Wrote
> 
> I'm in the process of fencing a 7 acre garden. I plan on spading down
> cover crops and using a bedshaper for the first couple of years, but
> I also plan on getting the tractor out of the garden as soon as
> possible. The goal is permanent raised beds.
> 
> How much land, my friends, do YOU set aside for end-of-row tractor
> turnabout? (ouch! with implements, of course.) I guess I'm hoping
> against hope that a few have worked out tricks that will keep me from
> setting all that fenced garden aside of tractor geometry a couple of
> times a season.
> 
> -Allan
Hi Allan I have 3 metres between end of row before i hit the shelter
belts come wild life sancuary come  herb border.I can just swing a
tractorwith implement  aroundwith out over running the beds.  I used to
have 4 metres wide headland over the years the herb border hasspead on
to this area. The herb border is set up around the perimeter of 8 acres
to provide a home for all the predater insects which work the crops and
also act as guards againsts invading insects from neighbouring
properties.On the outer edge of the headland i have planted comphrey
which is harvested on a regular basis for composting. This is an
excellent source of potash for Flower Crops. I also over sow the
headlands with Blue lupin which also goes into the compost.You will also
find a headland at either end of your crops very useful to get compost
in and crops out.I find my headlands very useful.
Are you still going to grow flowers this year?
Good luck with your new venture.
Tony Robinson
Rambler Flowers 
New Zealand

Re: introduction and a WHOLE lotta questions

[Rambler]

Jennifer Rochester wrote:
> 
> Thanks for writing Manfred :-)

> ***Share your soil test results with the list?***
> 
> Ha! What soil tests. This we are working on. So, would the county ag
> extension service down the road be the best place to get this from? We
> had planned on this, but then put it off, as we weren't sure if there
> was a better way, and didn't want to become confused with all of the
> fertilizer reccomendations we are sure to get. However, if this is the
> best option, we will just nod politely and then do our own thing
> (something we are getting to be very good at in recent years).
> 
>
Hi Jennifer. The most important thing you can do for your soil is to
have a soil test done. If you can get a Brookside type test done even
better.A Brookside test will tell you more about your soil then any
other test available It is more then just about what fertiliser to put
on.
The information that you need from a soil test is the the analaysis
part. It will tell what is missing from your soil, from there you can
then develope a management plan to improve your soil. ie what green
crops to use, what organic minerals to add to the composting system etc.

IF I Had done a soil test when i made the change from convential to
biodynamics 9 years ago would not be having the problems i am having now
and that is a chronic shotage of potassium.
good luck to your new venture
Tony Robinson
Rambler FLowers 
New Zealand

Re: introduction and a WHOLE lotta questions

[Rambler]

Manfred wrote:
> ***If you can afford the time, and you're short on funds anyway,
> keenly examine what grows on at least some of the fields as they are
> now. Note the types of weeds prevalent, and get a book... "weeds and
> what they tell"...E.Pfeiffer, and ask further questions of the list,
> too. Leave them alone till you need to bring them into "production"***
> 
>Hi Jennifer  A more up to date book is WEEDS. Control without Poisons by Charles 
>Walters. Editor Acres USA.

This book is more recent than Pfeiffer and has more detail. 
It will tell all about your soils, ie condition of your soil,what
nutrients are missing from your soil, and will also give remedies for
getting rid of weeds with out poisons.
I have both books and treasure them both.
Good luck with your endeavors.
Tony Robinson
Rambler Flowers
Levin 
New Zealand

[Fwd: organic herb farms]

[Rambler]

Hi to New Zealand list folk.

Can any one help Eva. Please contact her direct.

Many thanks 
Tony Robinson
Rambler Flowers 
Levin New Zealand

--- Begin Message ---

To whom it may concern,

I am a student of organic agriculture in Witzenhausen, Germany. I would
like
to do an aprenticeship in the field of growing and processing of herbs
for medical
use, teas, herbs, etc. For that reason I would like to have more
information on farms
that grow herbs in New Zealand, if possible.
Thank you in advance,

Yours very sincerly,
Eva Gemmel




--- End Message ---

Scale insects what are they telling me

[Rambler]

Hi folks  Can any one tell what scale insects on Nephrolepis fern  [
Boston fern] are indicating. 
This is a crop grown under cover harvested all year round and in about
the 3 rd year scale insects appear. This crop is 3rd generation
biodynamic is sprayed with potentised preps monthly. I have used Glens
pest off spray 2-3 times and yet the scale insect continues to spread.
There must be a stronger force at work any thoughts please would be most
welcome. I need to keep this crop going for a least another 6 months. as
we are renown for top quality crops i would like to solve this problem.

Thankyou 
Tony Robinson
Rambler FLowers 
New Zealand

Re: Albrecht System and plant sap analysis

[Rambler]

Moen Creek wrote:
> 
> It indeed is one of the recording devices a BD farmer could use
> overwhelm the neigh sayers if that was a viable approach to convincing
> anyone of anything spiritual.
> 
> As far as codifying the soil's health & wellbeing & making suggestions
> for improvement there are huge areas of variablity to overcome.
> 
> Do It!
> 
> Hi Markess Yes do it  I will. 
  I agree it is ONE of the tools  that i will use to  achieve the
objective  a balanced sustainable and profitable farming interprise. I
see it as an excellent way i can bring technologie into to small scale
farming at an affordable price.
 Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand
> 
>

Brix

[Rambler]

Hi Rex Thankyou for info on Brix websites. Just what i have bben looking
for.Rex Harrils article is the reason why i have ben interested in
useing brix levels for crop monitering all i have to do now is purchase
a refractometer at $350-400nz they are a bit expensive add it to thelist
of wantsRex Teague wrote:
> 
> On 31 Dec 01, Rambler wrote:
> > Hi Stephen  There is a method called Brix testing that a farmer can do
> > himself. It uses a refractometer to measure suger levels in plants and
> > fruit. When suger levels get above a certain level for each group of
> > plants then you have reached a balanced soil energy level. A figure
> > between 9-15 is my understanding. This is also subject that i would
> > like to study this coming year. It is one of the means which Dan Skow
> > uses in his book Mainline farming for the 21st Century to get his soil
> > nutrient levels to balance and you can do it your self.
> 
> There is a good amount of Brix information at
> http://www.brixpage.com. Note it is not just a measure of sugar
> rather plant sap solids.
> 
> Rex Harrill has written a helpful book(let) which can be clicked
> through to from the above website or
> http://www.crossroads.ws/brixbook/BBook.htm.
> 
> The BrixTalk list is linked from the Crossroads website but because of
> the unwieldy frames it maybe easy to go straight to it at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrixTalk.
> 
> Further links at http://www.crossroads.ws/brix/index-page7.html.
> 
> HTH... Rex
 
Thanks again 
Cheers Tony Robinson.
New Zealand.

Re: Albrecht System and plant sap analysis

[Rambler]

Stephen Barrow wrote:
> 
> To Christiane for posting the original question and the others who have
> replied - Thank you.
> 
> 
> Following this thread, has anybody had experience with plant sap analysis, a
> "new" form of analysis being offered by a local fertilizer company.  The
> theory makes sense - i.e. analysing for the nutrients currently in the plant
> and available for growth.  I am however sceptical of analyses conducted by
> fertilizer companies due to the potential of their bias.
> 
> Best wishes to all for a prosperous 2002.
> 
> Stephen Barrow

Hi Stephen  There is a method called Brix testing that a farmer can do
himself. It uses a refractometer to measure suger levels in plants and
fruit. When suger levels get above a certain level for each group of
plants then you have reached a balanced soil energy level. A figure
between 9-15 is my understanding. This is also subject that i would like
to study this coming year. It is one of the means which Dan Skow uses in
his book Mainline farming for the 21st Century to get his soil nutrient
levels to balance and you can do it your self.

Cheers Tony Robinson

Re: Albrecht System for soil testing and fertilisation

[Rambler]

Hi All 
I am reading volume one  "The Albrecht Papers" Throughout he talks of
clay as being the "jobber" or the "go between". [I see a link to horn
clay here]
His experiments with clay was to add to colliodal clay the various
fertislers like Calcium, Potash,Magnesium,Sodium etc  and then  measure
plant growth responses depending on the level of fertiliser applied
Calcium came out at the top of the list from this developed CEC.Cation
Exchange Capacity.  As i understand it different crops have a different
CEC values.I am looking for such information.
If I understand the purpose of clay properly it takes  fertiliser and
turns it into a form that allow the roots to uplift the nutrient into
the plant in the right quantities required.  
 From reading Albrecht I am able to understand Steiners work better. 
 Seasons greetings and blessings to all for a happy new year
 Tony Robinson
 New Zealand

Re: Albrecht System for soil testing and fertilisation

[Rambler]

Lloyd Charles wrote:
> but its probably a bit boring for others on this list . If there is further
> interest I am happy to continue this on air  

Hi Lloyd Please continue. Are you a soil scientist?I find this subject
fascinating,  I have been reading widely , thinking deeply ,but i lack
the mathematical skills to complete the picture. Are there tables or
fromulas that would help me.

Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: Albrecht System for soil testing and fertilisation

[Rambler]

Cheryl Kemp wrote:
> 
> Dear Christiane,
> Gwyn Jones from Integrated Agri-Culture on 03 55 611 091  would be a great
> person to discuss this with. Gwyn is a graduate of Sustainable Ag and has
> been a BD farmer before hurting his back.
> He runs Healthy Farming Systems courses teaching farmers about the soils and
> uses the Albrecht system. He has written some great books for his course,
> based on Albrechts work, but much easier to absorb, called SPAN - Soil Plant
> and Animal Nutrition.  Right at your back door!

Hi Cheryl How can I get hold of these books? Please

Seasons Greetings and blessings for a happy new year
Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: Albrecht System for soil testing and fertilisation

[Rambler]

Allan Balliett wrote:
> 
> I find this totally relevant to discussion on BD Now! Soil balancing
> was an area that was overlooked by my BD mentors. Injunctions of 'use
> the preps and see' and 'more compost more compost more compost' will
> not take every plot of land where it should be going...or may take
> geological time to get it there. I, for one, want the Albrecht
> numbers before I start BD on a new patch.

Hi Allan I agree with your sentiments exactly. I have always felt a huge
void between starting BD and actually achieving the objective of being
able to farm sustainably and make it  profitable.
i have been for the last 8 years BD and still have a massive soil
nutrient imbalance. I have heavy clay soils that are holding an excess
of nutrients in the wrong order. It was after Hugh's visit to NZ that   
i started to read books from the Acres USA stable that has gotten me on
to this path.It is his story about corn fascinates me.
Every book i have read have all said the same thing from Steiners
"Agriculture", "Secrets of the Soil",Maimline farming for The 21st
Centary", "Weeds Without Poisons" 'The Albrecht Papers"all suggest that
a "Healthy is one that has its energy levels right, the right balance of
nutrients, has the ability to suppress weeds, and the abilityto supress
all pest and diseases" ahh farmers utopia.

I have been fascinated by this subject for some time. So would love to
see this discussion continue. To me this is the valuable missing link
and i wish to learn more. 
Thankyou
Seasons greetings and blessings to all for a happy new year
Tony Robinson
New Zealand

Re: pear and cherry slug

[Rambler]

Graeme Gerrard wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a natural cure for pear & cherry slug. I am thinking
> of a low toxicity spray like a garlic/chilli/soap/lime/bicarbonate
> soda or similar.
> Yes, I know I shouldn't have to use such things but it has been a
> very unusually long and wet spring here.

Hi Graeme  I have had similar problems in the past This year i have kept
up a weekly sprays of liquid teas mainly of fish,seaweed
comphrey,nettle, and worm leachate and molasses. AND potentised 501 from
Garuda has been used once a month. I also used garuda' Pest Off for the
first time  the other. So far only minor slug damage.Oct and Nov have
been very wet here. Dec we have had 17-18 days rain and today is wet.

Seasons greetings and blessing for happy new year.

Cheers Tony Robinson 
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: Fwd: Bio-Dynamic weed control

[Rambler]

> >I also thought of demonstrating some other non-chemical methods like
> >planting competing plants like rye, native grasses and red clover; mulching;
> >in test plots to use up the money, but really, what I want to demonstrate
> >is superb weed control that does not harm microorganisms or animals.
> >

> >Merla Barberie
> >1251 Rolling Thunder Ridge
> >Sandpoint, Idaho 83864

Hi Merla  You could plant up the area with Wild Flowers. There are some
good wild flower mixtures around for different conditions. Some one on
this list did this a year or so back.

Cheers Tony Robinson
NewZealand

Hydoponic BD

[Rambler]

Hi Panama Bob

> My question is if BD may possibly be integrated into a production system
> that sprays cold nutrients onto roots or is soil temperature need to be at
> certain level to encourage micro organisms activity which produce the added
> umph to plant health Would it be possible to make a nutrient liquid mix
> leached out of a compost bed that utilized the micro organism activity?

Yes While am am not a hydoponics grower I am familiar with what you are
doing. I have some ideas how to make this work. I use foliar spraying as
a rescue method to over come a serious nutrient imbalance on an all year
round  cut foliage nursery under plastic.
A combination of liquid teas,sequential spraying,and potentised preps is
what i have in mind. It would not be able to be certified as organic but
certainly would get you away from growing waterfilled chemical food that
tastes like crap. 
> 
> The higher than normal brix levels intrigue me, and the subsequent natural
> defense against parasites

This is an area that really does interest me also. It ties in with Hugh
Lovels idea of growing corn as a suppler of nutrients to the soil. Also
with DR Carey Reams work as written by Dan Skow in 'MainLIne Farming for
the 21st Centary and William Albrect work " The Albrect Papers" vol 1-4 
and "Weeds with Poisons" written by Charles Walter . 
They all refer to achieving high brix levels to ward of insects and for
weed control.
Any way when i have cleared my backlog of work[it has rained on 17 days
this month and it is the middle of summer for us]I will post you my
thoughts.
Seasons geeeting and blessing to the new year.
Cheers Tony Robinson
New Zealand   
> 
>
> 
>

Compost Toilet

[Rambler]

Hi Liz  Welcome to the list. You will learn heaps from this list , if
you are patience , use your delete button often, visit as many of the
websites for information that people on this list post, ask questions.
You also need to read books about BD, organics, Permerculture ,
susstainable farming to get an overall picture to allow you to develope
your own individual farming to achieve a sustainable and profitable
organic certified farm.
In the next few days i will post a list of books and some usefull
websites.
Cheers Tony Robinson
NewZealand
>

Re: OFF: Popular headgear

[Rambler]

> > >>
> 
 I am happy to see that folks realize that you cannot achieve results in
> biodynamics with a stupid baseball cap. SStorch

Dear Steve  You have just solved the riddle. The NZ BDA has been selling
baseball style hats for years i have aleast 2 of them in my collection
of hats.A hat is worn depending of the mood of the day.

Cheers Tony

Directory has been released

[Rambler]

Hi to all BDNow folk Greetings to you all.
I have copied below details about a booklet that we have just published
here in New Zealand to help people get involved in Organics.

Much of the inspiration  and Information comes from BDNOW and i would
like to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have shared their
thoughts and ideas that have been included in this guide for Organics.
Some time next year we hope to get this onto a web site.
In the mean time thanks to all it gives me a real buzz to read so much
real information.
Now that I have finised this project  I will be start to write about the
significant changes that have happened to my place since Hugh Lovels
Visit Aug 2000.
Cheers Tony Robinson
> 
> 
> The Organic Resource Directory has been completed and has been sent out
> to those who have pre ordered.
> Our release has not been as spectacular as Harry Potter or Lord of the
> Rings.It has been announced in the local papers and on 95 FM, but not
> TV. It has been the work of a small dedicated committee that has finally
> seen its completion. It is great and has been well supported by
> advertisers it has heaps of sources of information. It will go nicely in
> the Christmas stocking.
>  The Orgro committe  is focusing on a stand for the Festival any one who
> would be able to help please contact me.In the meantime best wishes for
> the festive season, do not work to hard over the summer months. Take a
> break on the 18-20 Jan and relax at the Festival.
> See you all there.
> CHeers Tony Robinson Chairman OrGro
> 
> Below is a press release and the contents of the directory which can be
> bought from EHI. Cost $10 for EHI members. $15 for others.
> 
> PRESS RELEASEDate:  30 November 2001
> 
> Organic Agriculture Directory Published
> 
> A new publication will be of great assistance to organic growers in the
> Kapiti Horowhenua area.  OrGro, the Organic Industry Cluster Group for
> the
> Kapiti Horowhenua area, with the assistance of Horowhenua Enterprise,
> has
> published a Directory on organic agriculture.  The Directory provides
> practical information on organic growing and where to obtain supplies
> and
> services for organic agriculture.  It also lists growers in the area,
> and
> people who can provide advice and assistance about conversion to organic
> methods.
> 
> "The Directory provides an overview on organic growing," said Tony
> Robinson, the Chair of OrgGro.  "At the same time it lists in one
> publication the produce, products, services etc and contact details of
> growers, suppliers, retailers and advisers in the organic industry."
> The
> group has drawn on the experience and knowledge of growers in the area,
> and
> the professional expertise of Horowhenua Enterprise, to provide
> interested
> people with a quality publication.
> 
> "The Directory will be a reference book," said Mr Robinson, "and will
> promote both organic growing and the Horowhenua region."
> 
> 
> Contacts: Tony Robinson (06) 368 9265 or Gary Williams (06) 362 6684
>  or Georgie Pate at Enterprise Horowhenua  (06) 367 0524
> 
> 
>  Organic Agriculture
>  Resource Directory
>  For Kapiti & Horowhenua Districts
>  2001
> 
>   Table of Contents
> 
>   Who is OrGro?   Page 9
>   Organic Exports 2000/2001   Page 11
>   What is Organic Agriculture?Page 13
>   Organic Certification   Page 19
>   I.F.O.A.M.  Page 19
>   BioGro  Page 20
>   Demeter Page 22
>   Certenz Page 23
>   Certification Costs Subsidy Page 24
>   Transition  Page 25
>   The first year of going organic Page 26
>   Rock Dust   Page 28
>   Seaweed MealPage 29
>   Compost Page 30
>   Farm Scale Composting   Page 34
>   Liquid Manure   Page 35
>   Green Crops Page 36
>   Crop Rotation   Page 37
>   MulchingPage 39
>   Pest & Disease Management   Page 41
>   Companion Planting  Page 44
>   Fruit & Vegetables Companion Planting   Page 49
>   Herb Companions for Vegetables  Page 52
>   Biodynamics in 1 page   Page 53
>   Biodynamic Field Broadcasting   Page 55
>   EM