Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line

[John L. Scala, Jr.]

Yes it's rubber, thanks to all for the advice, I need to take another look at 
the line, perhaps I can re-arrange it somehow.
 


From: jimthompso...@gmail.com
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 21:09:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line






If the lower hose is rubber I do not think it is a problem. I have seen two 
braided hoses transferring electrical shorts or static charges. Consider the 
block moving under acceleration also.
 
Jim
 


From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of John L. Scala, Jr.
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 5:31 PM
To: Chevelle-List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line
 
I have a 71 with a small block.  I am creating a new fuel line from the pump to 
the carburetor using a braided steel line and aluminum fittings.  My question 
is, the lower radiator hose touches the fittings and line, is this acceptable 
or does the entire run need to be unobstructed?  It touches a little bit, not 
pressing on the line or fitting.
Thanks!
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line

[Jim Thompson]

If the lower hose is rubber I do not think it is a problem. I have seen two
braided hoses transferring electrical shorts or static charges. Consider the
block moving under acceleration also.

 

Jim

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of John L. Scala, Jr.
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 5:31 PM
To: Chevelle-List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line

 

I have a 71 with a small block.  I am creating a new fuel line from the pump
to the carburetor using a braided steel line and aluminum fittings.  My
question is, the lower radiator hose touches the fittings and line, is this
acceptable or does the entire run need to be unobstructed?  It touches a
little bit, not pressing on the line or fitting.
Thanks!
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Line

[HarKemAsso]

I would say to get it away from there as the heat my cause vapor lock.

Harlan




In a message dated 1/10/2011 6:07:28 PM Central Daylight Time, 
john...@msn.com writes:


> I have a 71 with a small block.  I am creating a new fuel line from the 
> pump to the carburetor using a braided steel line and aluminum fittings.  My 
> question is, the lower radiator hose touches the fittings and line, is 
> this acceptable or does the entire run need to be unobstructed?  It touches a 
> little bit, not pressing on the line or fitting.
> 

[Chevelle-list] Fuel Line

[John L. Scala, Jr.]

I have a 71 with a small block.  I am creating a new fuel line from the pump to 
the carburetor using a braided steel line and aluminum fittings.  My question 
is, the lower radiator hose touches the fittings and line, is this acceptable 
or does the entire run need to be unobstructed?  It touches a little bit, not 
pressing on the line or fitting.
Thanks!
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Robert Holtzman]

On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 10:13:41PM -0500, Jim Thompson wrote:
> Sounds like vapor lock. Do you have rubber fuel line?

After sitting over night? I doubt it.

-- 
Bob Holtzman
Key ID: 8D549279
"If you think you're getting free lunch,
 check the price of the beer"

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Dale]

I don’t know.  It was fairly long and I remember running it down until the nose 
butted against the inside wall of the hole and I could feel the threads.  Push 
rod still slipped right by it.  ?

 

Dale

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of 
z16chevelle...@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 4:26 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

Dale:

Maybe the bolt was not long enough. I cant remeber the length but I have always 
just grabbed a longer bolt and finger tightened it into the side of the bolt'

 

Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Jim Thompson]

Sounds like vapor lock. Do you have rubber fuel line?

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 8:22 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over
night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck
out of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb,
than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start
fine on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.


thanks
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[z16chevelleguy]

Dale: 

Maybe the bolt was not long enough. I cant remeber the length but I have always 
just grabbed a longer bolt and finger tightened it into the side of the bolt' 



Larry 
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale"  
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"  
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 2:15:45 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem 




I just recently changed the fuel pump on my 67 327 and tried the bolt trick.  
Even using a longer bolt that I could physically feel in the push rod hole, the 
bolt never contacted the push rod; the rod ran underneath the bolt.  Wound up 
having to remove the plate, grease up the rod with some bearing grease to help 
keep it against the camshaft.  I remember it working in the past but didn’t on 
this engine.  ??? 



Dale 



From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of 
z16chevelle...@comcast.net 
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 3:19 PM 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem 




 Every hard starting SB Chevy I ever owned, had either a weak or bad fuel pump 
which made it hard to start. 

Yes pull the short bolt and stick longer bolt which will hold the fuel pump 
push rod up. 

Larry 
- Original Message - 
From: harkema...@aol.com 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:17:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem 


This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is 
measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking.  I 
also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do much 
good, neither did the carb overhaul.   are there any tricks out there for 
replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the front 
where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding it in 
place) 
thanks for all the advice!!! 

Harlan 

In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
a396...@fidnet.com writes: 





I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump 
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump and 
carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry. 



Dale 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Dale]

I just recently changed the fuel pump on my 67 327 and tried the bolt trick.  
Even using a longer bolt that I could physically feel in the push rod hole, the 
bolt never contacted the push rod; the rod ran underneath the bolt.  Wound up 
having to remove the plate, grease up the rod with some bearing grease to help 
keep it against the camshaft.  I remember it working in the past but didn’t on 
this engine.  ???

 

Dale

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of 
z16chevelle...@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 3:19 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

 Every hard starting SB Chevy I ever owned, had either a weak or bad fuel pump 
which made it hard to start. 

Yes pull the short bolt and stick longer bolt which will hold the fuel pump 
push rod up.

Larry
- Original Message -
From: harkema...@aol.com
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:17:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem


This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is 
measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking.  I 
also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do much 
good, neither did the carb overhaul.   are there any tricks out there for 
replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the front 
where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding it in 
place)
thanks for all the advice!!!

Harlan

In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
a396...@fidnet.com writes:



I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump 
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump and 
carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry.



Dale

 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[z16chevelleguy]

 Every hard starting SB Chevy I ever owned, had either a weak or bad fuel pump 
which made it hard to start. 

Yes pull the short bolt and stick longer bolt which will hold the fuel pump 
push rod up. 

Larry 
- Original Message - 
From: harkema...@aol.com 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:17:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem 


This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is 
measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking.  I 
also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do much 
good, neither did the carb overhaul.   are there any tricks out there for 
replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the front 
where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding it in 
place) 
thanks for all the advice!!! 

Harlan 

In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
a396...@fidnet.com writes: 




I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump 
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump and 
carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry. 



Dale 





I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump 
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump and 
carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry. 



Dale 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Chum Nault]

There is a bolt that can be removed to hold the pushrod up but it really
isn't that hard to line the pump arm up with the pushrod and hold it in
place. If you do use the bolt method to hold the rod use a soft bolt and
just finger tighten it as you don't want to nick the rod and have it bind.
When you test a fuel pump the pressure can be ok but you also need to check
the volume, I am not sure what the exact volume should be but a good rule of
thumb is a pint in 30 seconds.

 

Chum Nault 

 

  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 9:17 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 


This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is
measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking.
I also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do
much good, neither did the carb overhaul.   are there any tricks out there
for replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the
front where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding
it in place)
thanks for all the advice!!!

Harlan

In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time,
a396...@fidnet.com writes:





I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump
and carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry.



Dale

 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[HarKemAsso]

This was kind of on the line I was thinking, when the fuel pressure is 
measured- I quickly get 6 psi but it drops right off when I stop cranking.  I 
also had the fuel line problem as discussed but replacing that did not do much 
good, neither did the carb overhaul.   are there any tricks out there for 
replacing the fuel pump? don;t some blocks have a tapped hole in the front 
where you can put a bolt and bottom out against the push rod (holding it in 
place)
thanks for all the advice!!!

Harlan

In a message dated 11/29/2010 8:42:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
a396...@fidnet.com writes:


> I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump 
> diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump 
> and carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry.
> 
>  
> 
> Dale
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Dale]

I just went through that with my 327 and Edelbrock carb.  The fuel pump
diaphragm had a small puncture that released the pressure between the pump
and carb.  Even the clear fuel filter I use was being drained dry.

 

Dale

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:22 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over
night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck
out of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb,
than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start
fine on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.


thanks
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Alex LaRue]

I had that problem on my Impala a couple of years ago and discovered that
the fuel line had developed a leak back by the tank and would completely dry
out overnight. It took two mechanics a week to find it. They kept looking
around the engine until we put it on the lift to do some exhaust work and
saw the rotten section.  Hope your problem is that simple. 

 

Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance, Inc.(800)303-3518   Fax (866)591-7318
P O Box 119 

54 Lincoln Square
Hodgenville, KY  42748   ACES  4711  

 

www.LaRueInsurance.net   www.LaRueClassics.com

 

 

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 8:22 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over
night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck
out of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb,
than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start
fine on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.


thanks
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Rick Schaefer]

Leaking fuel bowl also.

On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 7:24 PM, Darren  wrote:

>  I would check the choke and accelerator pump on the carb.
>
>
>
> Darren
>
>
>
> *From:* chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:
> chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] *On Behalf Of *harkema...@aol.com
> *Sent:* Monday, November 29, 2010 7:22 PM
> *To:* Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> *Subject:* [Chevelle-list] fuel problem
>
>
>
> what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over
> night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck
> out of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb,
> than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start
> fine on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.
>
>
> thanks
> Harlan
>



-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[Darren]

I would check the choke and accelerator pump on the carb.

 

Darren

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 7:22 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel problem

 

what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over
night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck
out of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb,
than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start
fine on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.


thanks
Harlan

[Chevelle-list] fuel problem

[HarKemAsso]

what could be the possible cause on a 350 chev engine after sitting over 
night the car will not start, it cranks and cranks and i can pump the heck out 
of it to no avail, i need to pour a small amount of fuel down the carb, 
than it will start and run just fine. if it sits a few hours it will start fine 
on its own. has to be like 8 or more hours.


thanks
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Dan Rachlin]

I work at advance and if it's in the warehouse, we can get it overnight, if
it's factory direct, it usually takes a couple days to a week with free
shipping.
Dan

On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 11:07 AM, ted laidig wrote:

> Just looked it up on Advance's and Autozone's sites and it's available, but
> you will probably have to order it.  My past experience with both of them is
> usually they will have your item in a couple of days.  Both places had the
> sending unit listed for a little over $50.00.  About the going rate, I think
> I paid $55.00 and change for the one for my "69" 4-5 year ago from Paddock.
> Sounds like you have found the problem.  With the ohm meter hooked up and
> moving the float up and down the meter needle ( if you have analog meter )
> should be jumping all over the place. Really the weakest link in the whole
> gas gauge system.  Good luck.
>
>  Ted
>
>  --
> *From:* "rml...@comcast.net" 
> *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List 
> *Sent:* Sun, April 18, 2010 6:40:36 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
> I dropped my fuel tank and removed my sending unit. I put the red lead of
> my  ohm meter on the post where the power wire attaches to the unit and and
> my black lead to the ground wire on the sending unit. I moved the float arm
> up and down and my ohm meter hardley moved at all. however when it was
> hooked up and in the car my fuel guage was reading from full to empty. 5
> gallons of gas would send the guage to full. It looks like I need another
> sending unit. Has anyone been able to get a sending at their local auto
> parts store or am I going to have to order it from some where else. Thanks
> Bob.
> - Original Message -
> From: rml...@comcast.net
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
> Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:32:59 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
> With so many different sending units to choose from that range from 50.00
> to 150.00 how am I to know which one I need. Thanks, Bob
> - Original Message -----
> From: "ted laidig" 
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
> Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 11:27:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
>  Seems that when I dropped the tank on my "69" I pulled the sending unit
> out and tested it with an Ohm meter and found a dead spot in it .  Think I
> learned about how to test the sending unit from the Team Chevelle forum. but
> would go the ground test route first and see what happens.  Bear in mind
> that if your gage is like mine sometimes it takes a little bit to react so
> be patient.
>
>  Ted
>
>  --
> *From:* Chum Nault 
> *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List 
> *Sent:* Fri, April 9, 2010 10:16:40 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
> Larry
>
> The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would
> test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if
> your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty
> then
> it is an open circuit in the sending unit.
>
> The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the
> sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied
> to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the
> sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the
> wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up
> the
> gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You
> don't
> need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM
> sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance.
>
> Chum Nault
>
> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
> [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams
> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
> Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the
> bench?  I have a spare.
>
> Larry
>
> rml...@comcast.net wrote:
> > So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the
> > dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5
> > gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to
> > check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so
> > what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the
> > tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to
> > partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob
>
>
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[ted laidig]

Just looked it up on Advance's and Autozone's sites and it's available, but you 
will probably have to order it.  My past experience with both of them is 
usually they will have your item in a couple of days.  Both places had the 
sending unit listed for a little over $50.00.  About the going rate, I think I 
paid $55.00 and change for the one for my "69" 4-5 year ago from Paddock.  
Sounds like you have found the problem.  With the ohm meter hooked up and 
moving the float up and down the meter needle ( if you have analog meter ) 
should be jumping all over the place. Really the weakest link in the whole gas 
gauge system.  Good luck.

 Ted





From: "rml...@comcast.net" 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Sun, April 18, 2010 6:40:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit


I dropped my fuel tank and removed my sending unit. I put the red lead of my  
ohm meter on the post where the power wire attaches to the unit and and my 
black lead to the ground wire on the sending unit. I moved the float arm up and 
down and my ohm meter hardley moved at all. however when it was hooked up and 
in the car my fuel guage was reading from full to empty. 5 gallons of gas would 
send the guage to full. It looks like I need another sending unit. Has anyone 
been able to get a sending at their local auto parts store or am I going to 
have to order it from some where else. Thanks Bob. 
- Original Message -
From: rml...@comcast.net
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:32:59 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit


With so many different sending units to choose from that range from 50.00 to 
150.00 how am I to know which one I need. Thanks, Bob
- Original Message -
From: "ted laidig" 
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 11:27:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit


Seems that when I dropped the tank on my "69" I pulled the sending unit out and 
tested it with an Ohm meter and found a dead spot in it .  Think I learned 
about how to test the sending unit from the Team Chevelle forum. but would go 
the ground test route first and see what happens.  Bear in mind that if your 
gage is like mine sometimes it takes a little bit to react so be patient.  

 Ted





From: Chum Nault 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 10:16:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

Larry

The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would
test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if
your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then
it is an open circuit in the sending unit. 

The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the
sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied
to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the
sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the
wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the
gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't
need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM
sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance.

Chum Nault  

-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?  I have a spare.

Larry

rml...@comcast.net wrote:
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
> dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
> gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
> check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
> what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
> tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
> partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob


  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[rml438]

I dropped my fuel tank and removed my sending unit. I put the red lead of my  
ohm meter on the post where the power wire attaches to the unit and and my 
black lead to the ground wire on the sending unit. I moved the float arm up and 
down and my ohm meter hardley moved at all. however when it was hooked up and 
in the car my fuel guage was reading from full to empty. 5 gallons of gas would 
send the guage to full. It looks like I need another sending unit. Has anyone 
been able to get a sending at their local auto parts store or am I going to 
have to order it from some where else. Thanks Bob.  
- Original Message - 
From: rml...@comcast.net 
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"  
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:32:59 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 


With so many different sending units to choose from that range from 50.00 to 
150.00 how am I to know which one I need. Thanks, Bob 
- Original Message - 
From: "ted laidig"  
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"  
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 11:27:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 



Seems that when I dropped the tank on my "69" I pulled the sending unit out and 
tested it with an Ohm meter and found a dead spot in it .  Think I learned 
about how to test the sending unit from the Team Chevelle forum. but would go 
the ground test route first and see what happens.  Bear in mind that if your 
gage is like mine sometimes it takes a little bit to react so be patient.  

 Ted 




From: Chum Nault  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List  
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 10:16:40 AM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 

Larry 

The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would 
test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if 
your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then 
it is an open circuit in the sending unit. 

The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the 
sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied 
to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the 
sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the 
wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the 
gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't 
need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM 
sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance. 

Chum Nault  

-Original Message- 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net ] On Behalf Of Larry Williams 
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?  I have a spare. 

Larry 

rml...@comcast.net wrote: 
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
> dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
> gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
> check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
> what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
> tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
> partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[rml438]

With so many different sending units to choose from that range from 50.00 to 
150.00 how am I to know which one I need. Thanks, Bob 
- Original Message - 
From: "ted laidig"  
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"  
Sent: Friday, April 9, 2010 11:27:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 



Seems that when I dropped the tank on my "69" I pulled the sending unit out and 
tested it with an Ohm meter and found a dead spot in it .  Think I learned 
about how to test the sending unit from the Team Chevelle forum. but would go 
the ground test route first and see what happens.  Bear in mind that if your 
gage is like mine sometimes it takes a little bit to react so be patient.  

 Ted 




From: Chum Nault  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List  
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 10:16:40 AM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 

Larry 

The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would 
test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if 
your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then 
it is an open circuit in the sending unit. 

The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the 
sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied 
to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the 
sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the 
wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the 
gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't 
need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM 
sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance. 

Chum Nault  

-Original Message- 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net ] On Behalf Of Larry Williams 
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit 

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?  I have a spare. 

Larry 

rml...@comcast.net wrote: 
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
> dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
> gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
> check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
> what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
> tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
> partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[ted laidig]

Seems that when I dropped the tank on my "69" I pulled the sending unit out and 
tested it with an Ohm meter and found a dead spot in it .  Think I learned 
about how to test the sending unit from the Team Chevelle forum. but would go 
the ground test route first and see what happens.  Bear in mind that if your 
gage is like mine sometimes it takes a little bit to react so be patient.  

 Ted





From: Chum Nault 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 10:16:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

Larry

The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would
test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if
your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then
it is an open circuit in the sending unit. 

The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the
sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied
to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the
sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the
wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the
gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't
need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM
sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance.

Chum Nault  

-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?  I have a spare.

Larry

rml...@comcast.net wrote:
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
> dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
> gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
> check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
> what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
> tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
> partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob


  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Dan Rachlin]

Larry, Also remember as the fuel sloshes around the tank while you drive,
the gauge will go up and down a little. If it is erratic to the point of
grounding out, then you definitely have a ground problem that needs to be
fixed better.
Dan

On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 10:55 AM, Larry Williams
wrote:

> Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the
> bench?   I have a spare.
>
> Larry
>
>
> rml...@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash
>> turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in
>> the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my
>> grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit
>> do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be
>> quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to partially remove my exhaust.
>> Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob
>>
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Chum Nault]

Larry

The fact that you are reading past full points to a bad ground and I would
test that by grounding the sending unit wire directly to the tank ground if
your gauge doesn't go to empty then fix the ground. If it goes to empty then
it is an open circuit in the sending unit. 
 
 The easiest way to bench test a gauge is with another sending unit, the
sending unit is just a 90 ohm resistor. With the 12volts and ground applied
to the gauge hook up a ground wire from the gauge ground to the body of the
sending unit and the hook up the gauge wire from the gauge directly to the
wire on the sending unit. When you move the float on the sending unit up the
gauge should go to full and when it is down it should go to empty. You don't
need to find the correct sending unit to do the test as almost all old GM
sending units used the same 90 ohm resistance.

Chum Nault  

-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 9:55 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?   I have a spare.

Larry

rml...@comcast.net wrote:
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
> dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
> gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
> check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
> what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
> tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
> partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Larry Williams]

Mine is erratic even after adding a ground.  How can you check it on the 
bench?   I have a spare.


Larry

rml...@comcast.net wrote:
So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the 
dash turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 
gal. in the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to 
check my grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so 
what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the 
tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to 
partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Dan Rachlin]

You may want to just check your grounds. When mine stopped working, I
removed my sending unit and moved the sending unit up and down and had a
friend look at the gauge. It read perfectly, letting me know that it was
just the grounds. Unless the sending unit is real old, or you got lots o
$$$. There is no reason to fix something that is not broken. Also, most
importantly, on my 66, I was able to get the sending unit out without
dropping the tank. I need to recheck my ground later today when I can as my
unit reads fine til 1/4 tank, then goes past full. So I need to recheck my
ground too.
Dan

On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Dan Solomon  wrote:

>  It wouldn't hurt to change the sending unit while you have it out.
> I changed mine when I replaced the tank so I didn't have to deal with it
> later.
> You should be able to get the tank out between the exhaust by unbolting the
> rear hangers and pushing it out of the way as you bring it down. If it still
> has fuel in it the weight can shift easilly but the suggestion of a
> floor jack and board is a good one.
>
> If I remember correctly, the only difference in sending units is the vapor
> return line or lack there of. It is my understanding that the 396/350 had
> the return line and the 396/375 did not. The return line runs along the
> frame with the fuel line. Just order the one that is currently on your car.
>
> Dan
>
> --
> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:18:49 +
> From: rml...@comcast.net
> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit
>
> So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash
> turned out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in
> the tank and it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my
> grounds, should I just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit
> do I need for a 70ss 396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be
> quite a ordeal. I think I am going to have to partially remove my exhaust.
> Thanks again yall  for your help. Bob
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[Dan Solomon]

It wouldn't hurt to change the sending unit while you have it out. I changed 
mine when I replaced the tank so I didn't have to deal with it later.

You should be able to get the tank out between the exhaust by unbolting the 
rear hangers and pushing it out of the way as you bring it down. If it still 
has fuel in it the weight can shift easilly but the suggestion of a floor jack 
and board is a good one.

 

If I remember correctly, the only difference in sending units is the vapor 
return line or lack there of. It is my understanding that the 396/350 had the 
return line and the 396/375 did not. The return line runs along the frame with 
the fuel line. Just order the one that is currently on your car.

 

Dan
 


Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:18:49 +
From: rml...@comcast.net
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit




So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash turned 
out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in the tank and 
it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my grounds, should I 
just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 
396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I 
am going to have to partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your 
help. Bob
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[ted laidig]

Forget to put this in my original reply, but the best way I found to drop the 
gas tank is to support it with a floor-jack while you undo the straps.  The 
tank is not overly heavy if it's near empty, but bulky especially if you are by 
yourself and laying on your back.  Jack comes in handy for reinstalling the 
tank and holding it in place while you get the straps bolted up.  Probably 
wouldn't hurt if you put a block of wood between the tank and the jack for 
added protection.  Good luck !!!

    Ted





From: "rml...@comcast.net" 
To: BOBBY 
Sent: Thu, April 8, 2010 5:18:49 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit


So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash turned 
out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in the tank and 
it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my grounds, should I 
just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 
396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I 
am going to have to partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your 
help. Bob



  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[ted laidig]

Had a similar problem in my "69" and one day while it read past full I ran out 
of gas about a mile from my house.  Called my son and after putting in 5 gals. 
and cranking on it forever, got it started and drove it home.  The next week 
dropped the tank and put a new sending unit in it , problem solved.  I think 
68-72 all used the same tank and sending unit .   Year one,National parts 
depot, Original parts group, Ground up, and Eckler to name a few all carry 
sending units.  Might also be able to get it through Advance 
auto,Autozone,NAPA, ect.  Hope this helps, nothing feels dumber than sitting 
along the side of the road in a muscle car with no gas in the tank and having 
people that you know drive by and look!!

  Ted





From: "rml...@comcast.net" 
To: BOBBY 
Sent: Thu, April 8, 2010 5:18:49 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit


So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash turned 
out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in the tank and 
it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my grounds, should I 
just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 
396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I 
am going to have to partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your 
help. Bob



  

[Chevelle-list] fuel sending unit

[rml438]

So I restored my dash over the winter, new fuel and temp guage. the dash turned 
out great. However, my fuel guage is not accurate. I put 5 gal. in the tank and 
it reads past full. If I have to drop the tank to check my grounds, should I 
just replace my sending unit. And if so what sending unit do I need for a 70ss 
396. It looks like dropping the tank is going to be quite a ordeal. I think I 
am going to have to partially remove my exhaust. Thanks again yall  for your 
help. Bob 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Dave Benjamin]

Just put new sending unit in about a year ago. Trying to get gauge more 
accurate.


Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 11:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel


  You said that you checked filters.  How about the fuel sock in the tank?   It 
may be allowing enough fuel to pass for normal driving, but not enough when you 
get on it?


  On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 9:13 PM,  wrote:

Double check all your rubber fuel lines. I had the ones on the tank get age 
cracked and were sucking air.



Darren


-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dave Benjamin
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:50 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net

Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 



 When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running 
out of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or 
that . Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I 
already had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??



Help 

Thanks Again.



Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/









  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Rich Pruett]

Good idea; rubber has a shelf life of 5-6 years. 

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. 

Red Green 

- Original Message - 
From: dar...@hopeandcompany.com 
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"  
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:13:14 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 




Double check all your rubber fuel lines. I had the ones on the tank get age 
cracked and were sucking air. 




Darren 

-Original Message- 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dave Benjamin 
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:50 PM 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 




 When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running out 
of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or that . 
Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I already 
had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb?? 





Help 


Thanks Again. 





Dave 
Ingersoll,Ontario 
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/ 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Johann Grobler]

Rick, I think you have touched on the real cause!  My 65 Malibu suffered from 
fuel starvation due to the blocked and broken sock and the gunk that came 
through.  Cleaned the tank, removed the sock and fitted an in-line fuel filter. 
 End of problem
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 5:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel


  You said that you checked filters.  How about the fuel sock in the tank?   It 
may be allowing enough fuel to pass for normal driving, but not enough when you 
get on it?


  On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 9:13 PM,  wrote:

Double check all your rubber fuel lines. I had the ones on the tank get age 
cracked and were sucking air.



Darren


-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dave Benjamin
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:50 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net

Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 



 When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running 
out of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or 
that . Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I 
already had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??



Help 

Thanks Again.



Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/









  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Rick Schaefer]

You said that you checked filters.  How about the fuel sock in the tank?
It may be allowing enough fuel to pass for normal driving, but not enough
when you get on it?

On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 9:13 PM,  wrote:

>  *Double check all your rubber fuel lines. I had the ones on the tank get
> age cracked and were sucking air.*
>
> * *
>
> Darren
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:
> chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] *On Behalf Of *Dave Benjamin
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:50 PM
> *To:* chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> *Subject:* [Chevelle-list] Fuel
>
>
>
>  When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running
> out of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or
> that . Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I
> already had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??
>
>
>
> Help
>
> Thanks Again.
>
>
>
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
>
>
>
>
>



-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[darren]

Double check all your rubber fuel lines. I had the ones on the tank get age
cracked and were sucking air.

 

Darren

-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dave Benjamin
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 8:50 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

 

 When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running
out of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or
that . Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I
already had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??

 

Help 

Thanks Again.

 

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

 

 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Tom Rightler]

What size is the fuel line?  You should be running at least a 3/8" line.  My 70 
has a stock mechanical fuel pump on it and has no issues running in the low 
13's/high 12's with it.  The fuel pump is typically not the culprit on a 
problem like this.  Most of the time it's the primary jets in the carbureator 
being insufficient for the fuel needs at wide open throttle.

Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Benjamin 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 9:50 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel


   When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running out 
of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or that . 
Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I already 
had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??

  Help 
  Thanks Again.

  Dave
  Ingersoll,Ontario
  My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

[Chevelle-list] Fuel

[Dave Benjamin]

 When I took my Beaumont ( 350 )down to the track last year I was running out 
of fuel have way through 1/4 mile. I don't have any great horse power or that . 
Should I be changing stock style fuel pump or just go to electric. I already 
had checked filters before this, so either pump or carb??

Help 
Thanks Again.

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2

[HarKemAsso]

ok thanks everyone for the help!
i will clean up everything and reinstall the tank as is

Harlan




In a message dated 6/18/2008 6:55:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> If it ain't broke, don't fix it!With electrical circuits cleaning & 
> reseating connections often will clear up problems, never to return.  If it 
> does 
> return then consider changing the sending unit.
> 
> 




**
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.
  (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2

[Rick Schaefer]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!With electrical circuits cleaning &
reseating connections often will clear up problems, never to return.  If it
does return then consider changing the sending unit.

On 6/18/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> fuel gauge reads full all the time.
> i took off the ground cleaned and reattached, still had problem, grouned it
> to a diffrent location with a jumper wire and still had problem,,, grounded
> the sender wire then it went to empty--- so i figured the problem was with
> the float/sender, so i took down my tank and rechecked it and now it is
> working--- wondering what "the list" suggests? should i get a new
> float/sender package and install it? is my problem likely to reoccur? or ???
> (are the aftermarket parts any good?)
>
> thanks for the help!
> Harlan
>
>
> **
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)




-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2

[Dan Rachlin]

Check the area around the sender. Look at the 'locking ring' that holds it
on. Where the wire attaches. Mine needed to be cleaned and now works great.
Dan

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 4:10 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> fuel gauge reads full all the time.
> i took off the ground cleaned and reattached, still had problem, grouned it
> to a diffrent location with a jumper wire and still had problem,,, grounded
> the sender wire then it went to empty--- so i figured the problem was with
> the float/sender, so i took down my tank and rechecked it and now it is
> working--- wondering what "the list" suggests? should i get a new
> float/sender package and install it? is my problem likely to reoccur? or ???
> (are the aftermarket parts any good?)
>
> thanks for the help!
> Harlan
>
>
> **
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2

[Daniel Solomon]

I think I read in an earlier response that the locking ring plays a part in 
grounding. Maybe removing and reinstalling cleaned that connection.Godspeed, 
Dan Solomon"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are 
in a hurry."http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 04:10:33 -0400To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: 
[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2fuel gauge reads full all the time.i took 
off the ground cleaned and reattached, still had problem, grouned it to a 
diffrent location with a jumper wire and still had problem,,, grounded the 
sender wire then it went to empty--- so i figured the problem was with the 
float/sender, so i took down my tank and rechecked it and now it is working--- 
wondering what "the list" suggests? should i get a new float/sender package and 
install it? is my problem likely to reoccur? or ??? (are the aftermarket parts 
any good?)thanks for the help!Harlan**Gas prices getting you down? 
Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used 
cars.(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507) 

[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge part 2

[HarKemAsso]

fuel gauge reads full all the time.
i took off the ground cleaned and reattached, still had problem, grouned it 
to a diffrent location with a jumper wire and still had problem,,, grounded the 
sender wire then it went to empty--- so i figured the problem was with the 
float/sender, so i took down my tank and rechecked it and now it is working--- 
wondering what "the list" suggests? should i get a new float/sender package and 
install it? is my problem likely to reoccur? or ??? (are the aftermarket 
parts any good?)

thanks for the help!
Harlan


**
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.
  (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Bill Bradley]

outrageous fuel prices?

Bill Bradley
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/
67 Chevelle Malibu 305/700R4
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1649723
71 Triumph Spitfire
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2506950
82 Kawasaki KZ305CSR

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
Mine stays @ empty all the time- I wonder what might be the cause?
Larry (Z)



**Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
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--

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[HarKemAsso]

thank you for the help(s) !! i will try that!!


**
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city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.
  
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Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[ss454hillman]

Hey Larry, try this site, was a BIG help for me? 
http://chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net/chevelleengineer/fuelgage.htm 
Steve


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 1:42 am
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge



Mine stays @ empty all the time- I wonder what might be the cause?

Larry (Z)




Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

Mine stays @ empty all the time- I wonder what might be the cause?
Larry (Z)



**Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
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Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[ted laidig]

Had the same thing happen on my "69".  To make a long story short,after 
testing my sending unit I discovered it was bad and replaced it.  Problem 
solved, gas gauge has worked every since.  My gauge was doing the same 
thing going way past full  no matter how much fuel was in the 
tank.   Get a new fuel gauge sending unit and I bet it will 
solve you problem.  Good luck.
 
 
   
 Ted

--- On Wed, 6/11/08, Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 11, 2008, 7:12 PM





Harlan, It sounds like the sender is shorted out or the wire to the sender is 
shorted to ground. When I test a gauge I ground the sender wire and the gauge 
will read full plus if the gauge is good. Try uhooking the sender wire from the 
gauge to see if it drops to empty. 
Mike

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 4:39 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge


on the 70 chevelle the fuel gauge sits at way past full and stays there.. what 
might be the cause??
 
 
thank you
Harlan





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AM



  

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Mike Holleman]

Harlan, It sounds like the sender is shorted out or the wire to the sender is 
shorted to ground. When I test a gauge I ground the sender wire and the gauge 
will read full plus if the gauge is good. Try uhooking the sender wire from the 
gauge to see if it drops to empty. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 4:39 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge


  on the 70 chevelle the fuel gauge sits at way past full and stays there.. 
what might be the cause??


  thank you
  Harlan





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8:32 AM

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Trooper]

Your float may be stuck.
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:50 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge


  my fuel gauge on the 70 chevelle reads past full all the time, wondering what 
the problem might be??

  thank you

  Harlan





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[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[HarKemAsso]

on the 70 chevelle the fuel gauge sits at way past full and stays there..  
what might be the cause??
 
 
thank you
Harlan



**Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.  (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg0005000102)

[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[HarKemAsso]

my fuel gauge on the 70 chevelle reads past full all the time, wondering  
what the problem might be??
 
thank you
 
Harlan



**Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.  (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg0005000102)

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[ss454hillman]

Hey Harlan, I just went thru the same thing. Could be the ground, the sending 
unit or the gauge itself. If you check out this web site it is really great 
info on how to check problem?? 
http://chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net/chevelleengineer/fuelgage.htm? or look 
in the Chevelle Forum gor The Chevelle Engineer?? Hope it helps you as it did 
me? Mine was the sending unit?? Steve


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 4:11 am
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge


my fuel gauge on the 70 chevelle goes all the way past the full and stays 
there, ,,? any ideas what might be the most likely cause??


thank you

Harlan


**
Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.
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Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Dan Rachlin]

Yep!!! Just dealt with this for weeks. Check your grounds especially at the
tank. You may have to pull the sender out and clean the ring that holds it
in. That is what grounds the system and it gets dirty with road grime. Let
me know what you find.
Dan

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 4:11 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> my fuel gauge on the 70 chevelle goes all the way past the full and stays
> there, ,,  any ideas what might be the most likely cause??
>
>
> thank you
>
> Harlan
>
>
> **
> Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.
> (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg0005000102)
>

[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[HarKemAsso]

my fuel gauge on the 70 chevelle goes all the way past the full and stays 
there, ,,  any ideas what might be the most likely cause??


thank you

Harlan


**
Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's 
Best 2008.
  (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg0005000102)

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel line fittings?

[Dan Rachlin]

Also, I'm just running the stock pump so I'm just doing from the stock punp
to the carb.

On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 12:03 PM, Dan Rachlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hey what are you guys using for aftermarket fuel line fittings? I need to
> redo mine and have been looking at Russell, Earls and Summit. Is there a
> difference? Anyone using Summit? I need to get a dual feed line fuel filter
> and steel braided hose and straight fittings. I have a built 396 big block
> and it's been dynoed at 440 hp. Thanks for any help.
> Dan
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge test

[Bill Lessenberry]

Never do resistance readings with current flowing through the 
wire.  Resistance is measured with the key off, voltage with key on.

BillL

At 10:46 AM 5/11/2008, you wrote:
If you put an ohm meter between  the lead from the gauge to the 
sending unit you should get a reading between 0 and 90 OHM with the 
ignition on. 0 would be an empty tank 90 a full tank .  Using a 
floor jack lower and raise the back of the car. If you get different 
readings the sending unit is good. If this fails check the ground to 
your instrument cluster. There should be 12 volts to the other side 
of the gauge.


Jim

[Chevelle-list] Fuel line fittings?

[Dan Rachlin]

Hey what are you guys using for aftermarket fuel line fittings? I need to
redo mine and have been looking at Russell, Earls and Summit. Is there a
difference? Anyone using Summit? I need to get a dual feed line fuel filter
and steel braided hose and straight fittings. I have a built 396 big block
and it's been dynoed at 440 hp. Thanks for any help.
Dan

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge test

[Jim H. Thompson]

If you put an ohm meter between  the lead from the gauge to the sending unit
you should get a reading between 0 and 90 OHM with the ignition on. 0 would
be an empty tank 90 a full tank .  Using a floor jack lower and raise the
back of the car. If you get different readings the sending unit is good. If
this fails check the ground to your instrument cluster. There should be 12
volts to the other side of the gauge. 

 

Jim

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 7:25 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel guage test

 

Hey guys was just wondering if there is a electrial test to tell if a fuel
guage was faulty or if it is the sending unit. It worked fine last fall and
just got the car out and its no working. I cleaned the ground wire and metal
on the body it attaches to and still dont work   Thanks in advance   Finally
spring is here in Mich sure was a LONG winterthanks   Steve

  _  

Plan your next roadtrip with MapQuest.com
<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap000304> : America's #1 Mapping
Site. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel guage test

[Dan Rachlin]

Also you can do the same under the dash at the guage. Just make sure you
DON'T ground the 12v positive or you will damage the guage.

On Sat, May 10, 2008 at 7:59 PM, Dave Benjamin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  I had that problem with my car ounce. If you undo the connector in the
> trunk or just behind the bumper and attach it to ground you should see gas
> gauge move if it is working. They supply the gas gauge with + and the wire
> going to the tank is -. It is variable resistor the more fuel you have the
> more your gas gauge reads (better ground from the tank).
>
> Waiting for warm weather
>
> Dave
> Ingersoll,Ontario
> My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> *To:* chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 10, 2008 7:25 PM
> *Subject:* [Chevelle-list] fuel guage test
>
> Hey guys was just wondering if there is a electrial test to tell if a fuel
> guage was faulty or if it is the sending unit. It worked fine last fall and
> just got the car out and its no working. I cleaned the ground wire and metal
> on the body it attaches to and still dont work   Thanks in advance   Finally
> spring is here in Mich sure was a LONG winterthanks   Steve
> --
> Plan your next roadtrip with 
> MapQuest.com<http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap000304>:
> America's #1 Mapping Site.
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008
> 12:38 PM
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel guage test

[Dave Benjamin]

I had that problem with my car ounce. If you undo the connector in the trunk or 
just behind the bumper and attach it to ground you should see gas gauge move if 
it is working. They supply the gas gauge with + and the wire going to the tank 
is -. It is variable resistor the more fuel you have the more your gas gauge 
reads (better ground from the tank).

Waiting for warm weather

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/



- Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 7:25 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel guage test


  Hey guys was just wondering if there is a electrial test to tell if a fuel 
guage was faulty or if it is the sending unit. It worked fine last fall and 
just got the car out and its no working. I cleaned the ground wire and metal on 
the body it attaches to and still dont work   Thanks in advance   Finally 
spring is here in Mich sure was a LONG winterthanks   Steve

--
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  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008 
12:38 PM

[Chevelle-list] fuel guage test

[ss454hillman]

Hey guys was just wondering if there is a electrial test to tell if a fuel 
guage was faulty or if it is the sending unit. It worked fine last fall and 
just got the car out and its no working. I cleaned the ground wire and metal on 
the body it attaches to and still dont work?? Thanks in advance?? Finally 
spring is here in Mich sure was a LONG winter??? thanks?? Steve

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Terry S Hodges]

Here is a pic of a Temp Gauge from lectric limited Faq pagesI couldn't find a fuel gauge. I usually do my searches by Googling IMAGES instead of web searches. That way you can see what your looking for ! 
 
Below is a diagram of how a typical temperature gauge should be wired.

[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

[Jim H. Thompson]

 

I need a photo of the back of a Chevelle fuel gauge. I need to know where
the ceramic block goes, the insulator and the wire connectors. They should
all be the same up to 1985. 

 

Jim;)

<>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Daniel Mascheck]

Mark Campbell and Bear are some of the sharpest folks on LT1 engines and I have 
bought plenty from them Street and performance. The harness for my 96 LT1 is 
from them and works flawless!! They have great products and they service their 
products years after they sold them to you! 

 

My situation or problem was due to the jerk that built the car for the doctor I 
bought it from. Trying to diagnose something over the phone without being there 
to see it is very difficult at best! You will never hear anything negative from 
me about them. Mark is actually the owner of the company. Like he says, he and 
the bank own it! I lived in Memphis for 9 years and Mena is on the other side 
of Arkansas, and I wish I would have gone by to see them, but at the time I 
traveled so much and cars were not in the plans!!

 

Thanks!!

 

  Dan 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 9:19 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

 

Just to give Street and Performance a little boost, I used thier wiring harness 
and computer on a 1990 TPI out of a Camaro. Worked perfect and fired right up. 
I've called them asking about heater hoses on that car and they knew the 
answer. Very smart and knowledgeable guys over there. 

 

I didnt chime in with your problem, because we ran an in-tank fuel pump. You 
dont even hear it when the car is running and barely hear it when the car isnt 
running(when it cycles on). We ended up getting the fuel lines off a 1990's 
Camaro with that motor and bending them to fit our Nova. Used the stock 
pressure and return lines. Then we just added a inline fuel filter and called 
it a day. The only problems we've had is a clogged fuel filter, and we thought 
the fuel gauge didnt work, but it does! Damn near ran out of gas on the way 
home one day.


-Original Message-
From: Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 6:50 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

I had a talk with Aeromotive again today! Three components can cause the 
problem. Heat from the exhaust or not enough air movement over the fuel pump to 
keep it cool. Second, restrictive fuel entry into the pump causing cavitation 
or from a non baffled tank and with the surge in fuel you have cavitation. Last 
but not least an inadequate wiring. Of course you do need to have a return for 
the system! They feel very confident that mine will work. I should know next 
week.

 

Street & Performance wanted me to put in a booster pump in front of the main 
fuel pump. Aeromotive wasn’t impressed with the idea. I use Aeromotive on my 
Chevelle and Brett in tech support has been very helpful before!!

 

If it doesn’t work next week, with all the money and effort put into the 
design, you’ll hear me scream all the way from Texas!(LOL)

 

Thanks!

 

Dan

 

From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ] 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 8:11 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

 

   Dan 
 I had a similar but not quite so frequent problem when I first ran my TPI 
system.   I  finally resolved the problem (knock on wood) by putting a low 
pressure pump near the tank, feeding it to a surge tank and feeding the hi 
pressure pump from the surge tank.   

  Do the pumps give any indication (noise) before they quit?
   

On Jan 14, 2008 7:55 PM, Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 

I talked at length to Aeromotive and they gave me the set up and the guy I
have installing it has done them before and feels confident. After going 
through 4 or 5 fuel pumps, getting about 300 miles to a fuel pump, it was
time to do something different. I took my 46 truck to two different places
and they didn't know their rear from a hole in the ground, hence calling 
Aeromotive, which I should have called them sooner, but each time I thought
we had found the weak point!

I know it would be better to put the tank under the bed with an internal
pump, but I don't want to cut an access hole through my new aluminum diamond 
plate bed, so I would prefer to use the old tank in the truck. I just want
to know if someone has done it, and it appears you have!! The truck has an
LT1 engine from a 96 Z28.

Thanks

Dan


-Original Message-
From: Leo John Costigan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:18 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92
Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below
level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with 
¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine
with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line
goes to Morose EF

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[bad66chevelle454]

Just to give Street and Performance a little boost, I used thier wiring harness 
and computer on a 1990 TPI out of a Camaro. Worked perfect and fired right up. 
I've called them asking about heater hoses on that car and they knew the 
answer. Very smart and knowledgeable guys over there. 



I didnt chime in with your problem, because we ran an in-tank fuel pump. You 
dont even hear it when the car is running and barely hear it when the car isnt 
running(when it cycles on). We ended up getting the fuel lines off a 1990's 
Camaro with that motor and bending them to fit our Nova. Used the stock 
pressure and return lines. Then we just added a inline fuel filter and called 
it a day. The only problems we've had is a clogged fuel filter, and we thought 
the fuel gauge didnt work, but it does! Damn near ran out of gas on the way 
home one day.


-Original Message-
From: Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 6:50 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!





I had a talk with Aeromotive again today! Three components can cause the 
problem. Heat from the exhaust or not enough air movement over the fuel pump to 
keep it cool. Second, restrictive fuel entry into the pump causing cavitation 
or from a non baffled tank and with the surge in fuel you have cavitation. Last 
but not least an inadequate wiring. Of course you do need to have a return for 
the system! They feel very confident that mine will work. I should know next 
week.

 

Street & Performance wanted me to put in a booster pump in front of the main 
fuel pump. Aeromotive wasn’t impressed with the idea. I use Aeromotive on my 
Chevelle and Brett in tech support has been very helpful before!!

 

If it doesn’t work next week, with all the money and effort put into the 
design, you’ll hear me scream all the way from Texas!(LOL)

 

Thanks!

 

Dan

 


From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 8:11 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!


 

   Dan 
 I had a similar but not quite so frequent problem when I first ran my TPI 
system.   I  finally resolved the problem (knock on wood) by putting a low 
pressure pump near the tank, feeding it to a surge tank and feeding the hi 
pressure pump from the surge tank.   

  Do the pumps give any indication (noise) before they quit?
   


On Jan 14, 2008 7:55 PM, Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 

I talked at length to Aeromotive and they gave me the set up and the guy I
have installing it has done them before and feels confident. After going 
through 4 or 5 fuel pumps, getting about 300 miles to a fuel pump, it was
time to do something different. I took my 46 truck to two different places
and they didn't know their rear from a hole in the ground, hence calling 
Aeromotive, which I should have called them sooner, but each time I thought
we had found the weak point!

I know it would be better to put the tank under the bed with an internal
pump, but I don't want to cut an access hole through my new aluminum diamond 
plate bed, so I would prefer to use the old tank in the truck. I just want
to know if someone has done it, and it appears you have!! The truck has an
LT1 engine from a 96 Z28.

Thanks

Dan




-Original Message-
From: Leo John Costigan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:18 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92
Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below
level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with 
¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine
with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line
goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill 
pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to
one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel
pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a fram 

heavy duty filter rated at 200#.



I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El Camino

is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel
supply.  You man need to increase the supply lines for performance 
operation.



FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use
outside the tank.  The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the
tank.  If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you 
could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it.



Good luck Leo

- Original Message -
From: "Daniel Mascheck" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!


>I know

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Daniel Mascheck]

I had a talk with Aeromotive again today! Three components can cause the
problem. Heat from the exhaust or not enough air movement over the fuel pump
to keep it cool. Second, restrictive fuel entry into the pump causing
cavitation or from a non baffled tank and with the surge in fuel you have
cavitation. Last but not least an inadequate wiring. Of course you do need
to have a return for the system! They feel very confident that mine will
work. I should know next week.

 

Street & Performance wanted me to put in a booster pump in front of the main
fuel pump. Aeromotive wasn’t impressed with the idea. I use Aeromotive on my
Chevelle and Brett in tech support has been very helpful before!!

 

If it doesn’t work next week, with all the money and effort put into the
design, you’ll hear me scream all the way from Texas!(LOL)

 

Thanks!

 

Dan

 

From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 8:11 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

 

   Dan 
 I had a similar but not quite so frequent problem when I first ran my
TPI system.   I  finally resolved the problem (knock on wood) by putting a
low pressure pump near the tank, feeding it to a surge tank and feeding the
hi pressure pump from the surge tank.   

  Do the pumps give any indication (noise) before they quit?
   

On Jan 14, 2008 7:55 PM, Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 

I talked at length to Aeromotive and they gave me the set up and the guy I
have installing it has done them before and feels confident. After going 
through 4 or 5 fuel pumps, getting about 300 miles to a fuel pump, it was
time to do something different. I took my 46 truck to two different places
and they didn't know their rear from a hole in the ground, hence calling 
Aeromotive, which I should have called them sooner, but each time I thought
we had found the weak point!

I know it would be better to put the tank under the bed with an internal
pump, but I don't want to cut an access hole through my new aluminum diamond

plate bed, so I would prefer to use the old tank in the truck. I just want
to know if someone has done it, and it appears you have!! The truck has an
LT1 engine from a 96 Z28.

Thanks

Dan


-Original Message-
From: Leo John Costigan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:18 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92
Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below
level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with 
¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine
with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line
goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill 
pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to
one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel
pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a fram


heavy duty filter rated at 200#.



I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El Camino

is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel
supply.  You man need to increase the supply lines for performance 
operation.



FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use
outside the tank.  The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the
tank.  If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you 
could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it.



Good luck Leo

- Original Message -
From: "Daniel Mascheck" < <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!


>I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with a

> 96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two
> months.
> I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom
> of
> the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank is 
> plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do have

> a
> small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good!
>
> After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major 
> surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and
> they
> gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose with
> a
> pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a post

> filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special
> regulator
> of their choice and 6 AN return line.
>
> The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with a

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Rick Schaefer]

   Dan
 I had a similar but not quite so frequent problem when I first ran my
TPI system.   I  finally resolved the problem (knock on wood) by putting a
low pressure pump near the tank, feeding it to a surge tank and feeding the
hi pressure pump from the surge tank.

  Do the pumps give any indication (noise) before they quit?


On Jan 14, 2008 7:55 PM, Daniel Mascheck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I talked at length to Aeromotive and they gave me the set up and the guy I
> have installing it has done them before and feels confident. After going
> through 4 or 5 fuel pumps, getting about 300 miles to a fuel pump, it was
> time to do something different. I took my 46 truck to two different places
> and they didn't know their rear from a hole in the ground, hence calling
> Aeromotive, which I should have called them sooner, but each time I
> thought
> we had found the weak point!
>
> I know it would be better to put the tank under the bed with an internal
> pump, but I don't want to cut an access hole through my new aluminum
> diamond
> plate bed, so I would prefer to use the old tank in the truck. I just want
> to know if someone has done it, and it appears you have!! The truck has an
> LT1 engine from a 96 Z28.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Leo John Costigan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:18 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!
>
> I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92
> Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank
> below
> level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank
> with
> ¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine
> with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return
> line
> goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill
> pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to
> one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel
> pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a
> fram
>
> heavy duty filter rated at 200#.
>
>
>
> I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El
> Camino
>
> is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel
> supply.  You man need to increase the supply lines for performance
> operation.
>
>
>
> FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use
> outside the tank.  The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the
> tank.  If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you
> could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it.
>
>
>
> Good luck Leo
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Daniel Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!
>
>
> >I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with
> a
> > 96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two
> > months.
> > I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom
> > of
> > the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank
> is
> > plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do
> have
>
> > a
> > small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good!
> >
> > After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major
> > surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and
> > they
> > gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose
> with
> > a
> > pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a
> post
> > filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special
> > regulator
> > of their choice and 6 AN return line.
> >
> > The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with an
> > external pump successfully? I don't want to move the tank underneath the
> > bed, and surely it can be done.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Dan
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Daniel Mascheck]

I talked at length to Aeromotive and they gave me the set up and the guy I
have installing it has done them before and feels confident. After going
through 4 or 5 fuel pumps, getting about 300 miles to a fuel pump, it was
time to do something different. I took my 46 truck to two different places
and they didn't know their rear from a hole in the ground, hence calling
Aeromotive, which I should have called them sooner, but each time I thought
we had found the weak point!

I know it would be better to put the tank under the bed with an internal
pump, but I don't want to cut an access hole through my new aluminum diamond
plate bed, so I would prefer to use the old tank in the truck. I just want
to know if someone has done it, and it appears you have!! The truck has an
LT1 engine from a 96 Z28.

Thanks

Dan

-Original Message-
From: Leo John Costigan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:18 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92 
Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below 
level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with 
¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine 
with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line 
goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill 
pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to 
one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel 
pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a fram

heavy duty filter rated at 200#.



I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El Camino

is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel 
supply.  You man need to increase the supply lines for performance 
operation.



FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use 
outside the tank.  The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the 
tank.  If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you 
could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it.



Good luck Leo

- Original Message - 
From: "Daniel Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!


>I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with a
> 96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two 
> months.
> I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom 
> of
> the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank is
> plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do have

> a
> small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good!
>
> After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major
> surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and 
> they
> gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose with 
> a
> pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a post
> filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special 
> regulator
> of their choice and 6 AN return line.
>
> The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with an
> external pump successfully? I don't want to move the tank underneath the
> bed, and surely it can be done.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Leo John Costigan]

I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92 
Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below 
level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with 
¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine 
with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line 
goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill 
pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to 
one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel 
pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a fram 
heavy duty filter rated at 200#.




I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El Camino 
is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel 
supply.  You man need to increase the supply lines for performance 
operation.




FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use 
outside the tank.  The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the 
tank.  If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you 
could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it.




Good luck Leo

- Original Message - 
From: "Daniel Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!



I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with a
96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two 
months.
I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom 
of

the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank is
plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do have 
a

small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good!

After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major
surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and 
they
gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose with 
a

pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a post
filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special 
regulator

of their choice and 6 AN return line.

The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with an
external pump successfully? I don't want to move the tank underneath the
bed, and surely it can be done.

Thanks

Dan

[Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!

[Daniel Mascheck]

I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with a
96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two months.
I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom of
the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank is
plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do have a
small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good! 

After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major
surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and they
gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose with a
pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a post
filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special regulator
of their choice and 6 AN return line.

The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with an
external pump successfully? I don't want to move the tank underneath the
bed, and surely it can be done.

Thanks

Dan 

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[Carl Ziegler]

Me too on the hot water line busting.  Slab home in Texas, I had moved while my wife and kids were still there.  The house was sold and just waiting for the close and the move.  Water was leaking out between the brick and slab, what a mess.  The hot water tank was blocked by a bunch of stuff in the garage and I had to talk a hysterical wife through shutting it off.  I feel for anyone that happens for. 
		Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[John Nasta]

Maybe it's just trying to make me feel better. Like, for $1 I can have a
full tank of gas.


-Original Message-
From: Alex LaRue [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 4:55 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

What has your El Camino been eating lately?   :)



Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance
   Personal & Business Insurance
   Collector Car Insurance
   Life Insurance
P O Box 119
Hodgenville, KY  42748
800-303-3518   Fax 270-358-8978

Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net or www.LaRueClassics.com

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[John Nasta]

Ok,
thanks. One of the many brilliant things Ron Miller did when he worked on my
car was to cut the ground wire instead of disconnecting it like a person who
actually cares would do, and then not bother to re-attach it. So, when I got
the car back I had to drop the tank and re-attach the wire. It must have come
apart. I guess I'll have to drop the tank again unless the problem magically
disappears the same way it magically appeared.

 

Well,
compared to waking up yesterday to find out that the hot water supply line to
my washing machine had sprung a leak and my kitchen was flooded and floor tiles
buckled this seems minor.

 

I think I'll
take a sleeping pill now.

 

John Nasta

 

 

 

-Original
Message-
From: Carl Ziegler
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006
4:20 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel
gauge reads high temperature

 

usually that
indicates a bad ground.  My truck does it all the time, comes and goes.

 










Do you
Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're
invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[Alex LaRue]

What has your El Camino been eating lately?   :)



Alex LaRue
LaRue Insurance
   Personal & Business Insurance
   Collector Car Insurance
   Life Insurance
P O Box 119
Hodgenville, KY  42748
800-303-3518   Fax 270-358-8978

Visit us online at www.LaRueInsurance.net or www.LaRueClassics.com

Join President Bush and a host of others here in Hodgenville on February
12th, 2008 to kickoff the two year Lincoln Bicentennial Celebration!!!


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 4:15 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature


Well, lately every single day something has broken and today is no
exception. I just went out and started the El Camino and the fuel gauge went
way past full about half-way through the temperature light area. This is the
first time this has ever happened. I'm hoping it's just a symptom of the
heat. Right now weather.com is saying that it's 107 degrees outside with the
heat index. I know that the tank is near empty. Any ideas?

Thanks,
John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[Carl Ziegler]

usually that indicates a bad ground.  My truck does it all the time, comes and goes. 
		Do you Yahoo!? 
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Chevelle-list] fuel gauge reads high temperature

[John Nasta]

Well, lately every single day something has broken and today is no
exception. I just went out and started the El Camino and the fuel gauge went
way past full about half-way through the temperature light area. This is the
first time this has ever happened. I'm hoping it's just a symptom of the
heat. Right now weather.com is saying that it's 107 degrees outside with the
heat index. I know that the tank is near empty. Any ideas?

Thanks,
John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

It's 61 now with our expected high to be 76 today. Gotta love it.

Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


It was 20 and sunny here this morningnothing but dreaming going 
on..


Walt


- Original Message -
From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:55 am
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

Thanks Walt. Living in Florida, I don't think this Chevelle will 
see too 
much in the way of hibernation. I hope to drive it two or three 
times a 
week, all year. With gas prices as they are, I just hope I can 
afford it.


Larry Shouse


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


> Larry,
> I'm sure the lining compound has changed over the years..so has
> the fuel.  Like I said, I have seen the rubber linings dry rot 
on cars

> that sat w/o fuel for winter or longer.  I haven't had any problems
> and have not had to re-tighten the fittings.  The clear filter will
> let you know what is going on.
>
> Walt
> http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:57 pm
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>
>> Walt,
>>
>> You say your current set-up has been in place for a decade - has
>> the
>> manufacturing process or materials used for the lining changes
>> over the
>> years to account for it's longevity you think?
>>
>> I'll have a clear in-line filter up where I can see the fuel, and
>> will keep
>> an eye on it.
>>
>> Speaking of maintenance, have you ever had to go back and tighten
>> the
>> fittings from time to time?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Larry Shouse
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
>> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>>
>>
>> > I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One
>> thing to
>> > keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will 
deteriorate>> > over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and 
put nice rubber

>> > chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the
>> current -
>> > 8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I 
keep it

>> > moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.
>> > Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o
>> gas in
>> > the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or
>> > needle/seats.
>> >
>> > Walt
>> > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > - Original Message -
>> > From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> > Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
>> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>> >
>> >> Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run 

all
>> >> steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the 

fittings

>> >> "sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's
>> >> method is a good one.
>> >> Clint Hooper
>> >> H&H Custom,owner
>> >> 1969 El Camino ProTourer
>> >> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
>> >> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
>> >>  - Original Message - 
>> >>  From: Larry Shouse

>> >>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
>> >>  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
>> >>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>  Doug,
>> >>
>> >>  I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as 
well.>> >> I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go 
with Summit
>> >> p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit 
designed>> >> to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan 
anyways,>> >> unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm 
headed in the

>> >> wrong direction.
>> >>
>> >>  Larry Shouse
>> >
>>
>>
>>
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[wbainey]

It was 20 and sunny here this morningnothing but dreaming going 
on..

Walt


- Original Message -
From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:55 am
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

> Thanks Walt. Living in Florida, I don't think this Chevelle will 
> see too 
> much in the way of hibernation. I hope to drive it two or three 
> times a 
> week, all year. With gas prices as they are, I just hope I can 
> afford it.
> 
> Larry Shouse
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> 
> 
> > Larry,
> > I'm sure the lining compound has changed over the years..so has
> > the fuel.  Like I said, I have seen the rubber linings dry rot 
> on cars
> > that sat w/o fuel for winter or longer.  I haven't had any problems
> > and have not had to re-tighten the fittings.  The clear filter will
> > let you know what is going on.
> >
> > Walt
> > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:57 pm
> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >
> >> Walt,
> >>
> >> You say your current set-up has been in place for a decade - has
> >> the
> >> manufacturing process or materials used for the lining changes
> >> over the
> >> years to account for it's longevity you think?
> >>
> >> I'll have a clear in-line filter up where I can see the fuel, and
> >> will keep
> >> an eye on it.
> >>
> >> Speaking of maintenance, have you ever had to go back and tighten
> >> the
> >> fittings from time to time?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Larry Shouse
> >> - Original Message - 
> >> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
> >> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:29 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >>
> >>
> >> > I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One
> >> thing to
> >> > keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will 
> deteriorate>> > over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and 
> put nice rubber
> >> > chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the
> >> current -
> >> > 8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I 
> keep it
> >> > moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.
> >> > Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o
> >> gas in
> >> > the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or
> >> > needle/seats.
> >> >
> >> > Walt
> >> > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > - Original Message -
> >> > From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> > Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
> >> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >> >
> >> >> Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run 
all
> >> >> steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the 
fittings
> >> >> "sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's
> >> >> method is a good one.
> >> >> Clint Hooper
> >> >> H&H Custom,owner
> >> >> 1969 El Camino ProTourer
> >> >> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
> >> >> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
> >> >>  - Original Message - 
> >> >>  From: Larry Shouse
> >> >>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> >> >>  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
> >> >>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>  Doug,
> >> >>
> >> >>  I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as 
> well.>> >> I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go 
> with Summit
> >> >> p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit 
> designed>> >> to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan 
> anyways,>> >> unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm 
> headed in the
> >> >> wrong direction.
> >> >>
> >> >>  Larry Shouse
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > 
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

Sounds like the true voice of experience. I too 
have done a thing or two in the past where if I would have stopped and thought 
about it, I would have done it differently. I'm sure I'll have more episodes 
coming up...
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:12 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  
  I never tried 
  braided line cutters and shops that deal with braided line frequently have a 
  large cut off saw as Herb mentioned.  For an infrequent user such as 
  myself, I went to Lowes and got a large flat chisel; about 3” across the 
  cutting area.  Put the hose on a wooden block and smack it once with a 
  2-lb hand sledge and it’ll cut clean.  Be sure to use something that will 
  absorb the shock like a piece of 2x4 and not a concrete garage floor.  
  You don’t want to know – LOL.
  
  Dale 
  McIntosh 
  67 El 
  Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference 
  CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold 
  #92 
  
  
  
  
  
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herb LumppSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:21 
  PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing 
  ListSubject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
   
  
  There are numerous 
  ways to cut braided line... a cut off saw, hack saw (both require the line to 
  be wrapped with tape at the cut point), a sharpened chisel w/ a heavy hammer 
  and a solid hit (yes it does work), and finally, a pair of braided line 
  cutters.  In my opinion, the cutters are the best way but can only handle 
  up to a -12 size line (at least the ones I have) Summit part number 
  SUM-900040, $33.95. 
  
   
  
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:14 
PMTo: 
Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter
In a 
message dated 2/27/2006 5:21:43 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Once 
I figured out how to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was 
pretty simple. Could you please share this tip??thank 
youHarlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[wbainey]

Larry,
 I'm sure the lining compound has changed over the years..so has 
the fuel.  Like I said, I have seen the rubber linings dry rot on cars 
that sat w/o fuel for winter or longer.  I haven't had any problems 
and have not had to re-tighten the fittings.  The clear filter will 
let you know what is going on. 

Walt
http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm


- Original Message -
From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

> Walt,
> 
> You say your current set-up has been in place for a decade - has 
> the 
> manufacturing process or materials used for the lining changes 
> over the 
> years to account for it's longevity you think?
> 
> I'll have a clear in-line filter up where I can see the fuel, and 
> will keep 
> an eye on it.
> 
> Speaking of maintenance, have you ever had to go back and tighten 
> the 
> fittings from time to time?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Larry Shouse
> - Original Message - 
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> 
> 
> > I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One 
> thing to
> > keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will deteriorate
> > over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and put nice rubber
> > chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the 
> current -
> > 8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I keep it
> > moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.
> > Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o 
> gas in
> > the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or
> > needle/seats.
> >
> > Walt
> > http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >
> >> Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run all
> >> steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
> >> "sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's
> >> method is a good one.
> >> Clint Hooper
> >> H&H Custom,owner
> >> 1969 El Camino ProTourer
> >> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
> >> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
> >>  - Original Message - 
> >>  From: Larry Shouse
> >>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> >>  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
> >>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> >>
> >>
> >>  Doug,
> >>
> >>  I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well.
> >> I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit
> >> p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed
> >> to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan anyways,
> >> unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the
> >> wrong direction.
> >>
> >>  Larry Shouse
> > 
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

Thanks Walt. Living in Florida, I don't think this Chevelle will see too 
much in the way of hibernation. I hope to drive it two or three times a 
week, all year. With gas prices as they are, I just hope I can afford it.


Larry Shouse


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter



Larry,
I'm sure the lining compound has changed over the years..so has
the fuel.  Like I said, I have seen the rubber linings dry rot on cars
that sat w/o fuel for winter or longer.  I haven't had any problems
and have not had to re-tighten the fittings.  The clear filter will
let you know what is going on.

Walt
http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm


- Original Message -
From: Larry Shouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


Walt,

You say your current set-up has been in place for a decade - has
the
manufacturing process or materials used for the lining changes
over the
years to account for it's longevity you think?

I'll have a clear in-line filter up where I can see the fuel, and
will keep
an eye on it.

Speaking of maintenance, have you ever had to go back and tighten
the
fittings from time to time?

Thanks,

Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


> I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One
thing to
> keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will deteriorate
> over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and put nice rubber
> chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the
current -
> 8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I keep it
> moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.
> Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o
gas in
> the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or
> needle/seats.
>
> Walt
> http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -
> From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>
>> Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run all
>> steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
>> "sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's
>> method is a good one.
>> Clint Hooper
>> H&H Custom,owner
>> 1969 El Camino ProTourer
>> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
>> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
>>  - Original Message - 
>>  From: Larry Shouse

>>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
>>  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>>
>>
>>  Doug,
>>
>>  I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well.
>> I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit
>> p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed
>> to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan anyways,
>> unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the
>> wrong direction.
>>
>>  Larry Shouse
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

Good point, Clint.  I didn’t use
any tape but I only had 3 or 4 pieces to cut and the chisel was still very
sharp.  Also think that masking tape would work better than duct tape or
electrical tape in this instance.  I’d think it’d be a bit more
flexible and allow the hose to better rebound to a round shape after being
whacked.



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Clint Hooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
10:22 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



That's the way I cut braided hose too,Dale. The only other
thing I might add is I wrap the hose with duct tape first before wacking it
with the chisel. The tape allows for a clean cut w/o loose strands.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Dale






 



I never tried braided line cutters and
shops that deal with braided line frequently have a large cut off saw as Herb
mentioned.  For an infrequent user such as myself, I went to Lowes and got
a large flat chisel; about 3” across the cutting area.  Put the hose
on a wooden block and smack it once with a 2-lb hand sledge and it’ll cut
clean.  Be sure to use something that will absorb the shock like a piece
of 2x4 and not a concrete garage floor.  You don’t want to know
– LOL.



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Herb Lumpp



 



There are numerous ways to cut braided
line... a cut off saw, hack saw (both require the line to be wrapped with tape
at the cut point), a sharpened chisel w/ a heavy hammer and a solid hit (yes it
does work), and finally, a pair of braided line cutters.  In my opinion,
the cutters are the best way but can only handle up to a -12 size line (at
least the ones I have) Summit part number SUM-900040, $33.95. 





 





Herb Lumpp
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Clint Hooper]

That's the way I cut braided hose too,Dale. The 
only other thing I might add is I wrap the hose with duct tape first before 
wacking it with the chisel. The tape allows for a clean cut w/o loose 
strands.
Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dale 
  
  
  I never tried 
  braided line cutters and shops that deal with braided line frequently have a 
  large cut off saw as Herb mentioned.  For an infrequent user such as 
  myself, I went to Lowes and got a large flat chisel; about 3” across the 
  cutting area.  Put the hose on a wooden block and smack it once with a 
  2-lb hand sledge and it’ll cut clean.  Be sure to use something that will 
  absorb the shock like a piece of 2x4 and not a concrete garage floor.  
  You don’t want to know – LOL.
  
  Dale 
  McIntosh 
  67 El 
  Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference 
  CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold 
  #92 
  
  
  
  
  
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herb 
  Lumpp
   
  
  There are numerous 
  ways to cut braided line... a cut off saw, hack saw (both require the line to 
  be wrapped with tape at the cut point), a sharpened chisel w/ a heavy hammer 
  and a solid hit (yes it does work), and finally, a pair of braided line 
  cutters.  In my opinion, the cutters are the best way but can only handle 
  up to a -12 size line (at least the ones I have) Summit part number 
  SUM-900040, $33.95. 
  
   
  
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

I never tried braided line cutters and
shops that deal with braided line frequently have a large cut off saw as Herb
mentioned.  For an infrequent user such as myself, I went to Lowes and got
a large flat chisel; about 3” across the cutting area.  Put the hose
on a wooden block and smack it once with a 2-lb hand sledge and it’ll cut
clean.  Be sure to use something that will absorb the shock like a piece
of 2x4 and not a concrete garage floor.  You don’t want to know –
LOL.



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Herb Lumpp
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
8:21 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



There are numerous ways to cut braided
line... a cut off saw, hack saw (both require the line to be wrapped with tape
at the cut point), a sharpened chisel w/ a heavy hammer and a solid hit (yes it
does work), and finally, a pair of braided line cutters.  In my opinion,
the cutters are the best way but can only handle up to a -12 size line (at
least the ones I have) Summit part number SUM-900040, $33.95. 





 





Herb Lumpp
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm





-Original Message-
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
9:14 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter

In a message dated 2/27/2006 5:21:43
PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:





Once I figured out how
to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. 

Could you please share this tip??
thank you
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Kyle Bennett]

For cutting braided hoses...you can find these 
fairly cheap and i have always used these. I just happen to use Klein since they 
are very durable.
http://www.tecratools.com/pages/service/graphics/12159l.gif
 
Kyle

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb Lumpp 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:20 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  There are numerous ways to cut braided line... a cut off saw, hack saw 
  (both require the line to be wrapped with tape at the cut point), a sharpened 
  chisel w/ a heavy hammer and a solid hit (yes it does work), and finally, a 
  pair of braided line cutters.  In my opinion, the cutters are the best 
  way but can only handle up to a -12 size line (at least the ones I have) 
  Summit part number SUM-900040, $33.95. 
   
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:14 
PMTo: Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] Fuel FilterIn a message dated 2/27/2006 5:21:43 PM Central Standard 
Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Once I figured out how to cut the ends off cleanly for the 
  fittings, it was pretty simple. Could you please share this 
  tip??thank youHarlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Herb Lumpp]

There 
are numerous ways to cut braided line... a cut off saw, hack saw (both require 
the line to be wrapped with tape at the cut point), a sharpened chisel w/ a 
heavy hammer and a solid hit (yes it does work), and finally, a pair of braided 
line cutters.  In my opinion, the cutters are the best way but can only 
handle up to a -12 size line (at least the ones I have) Summit part number 
SUM-900040, $33.95. 
 
Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:14 
  PMTo: Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] Fuel FilterIn a message dated 2/27/2006 5:21:43 PM Central Standard Time, 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  Once I figured out how to cut the ends off cleanly for the 
fittings, it was pretty simple. Could you please share this 
tip??thank youHarlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[HarKemAsso]

In a message dated 2/27/2006 5:21:43 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Once I figured out how to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. 

Could you please share this tip??
thank you
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

Herb,
 
Thanks for your reply. I'm thinking this will be a 
straight forward install. Can't wait to get it done.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb Lumpp 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 7:58 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  Larry,
   
  I 
  haven't had any "sweating" issues with my steel braided lines or 
  fittings.  As long as you properly assemble the fittings/lines they 
  shouldn't leak.  Ensure the ends of the fittings and internal threads are 
  well lubricated before putting the pieces together, and it helps to have a set 
  of aluminum vise jaws and aluminum a/n wrenches when you assemble the 
  fittings.
   
  Before I installed the rear sump, I had a worm gear clamp to hold the 
  braided line to the sending unit's barb.  I don't know if that was the 
  right way to do it or not, but it worked with no leaks.
   
  As 
  Dale mentioned, the a/n fitting seals on the 37* flare, not the threads.  
  However, you can use Teflon tape or thread sealer on the pipe threads of the 
  a/n to pipe thread adapters.
   
  Also, the shut-off valve is a great idea to include in your fuel 
  system, especially when you need to disassemble a fuel line or change the 
  filter.  It's also makes a good theft deterrent.
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:27 PMTo: The 
    Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter
Herb,
 
Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my 
way around cars after a 25 year break while serving my country and raising a 
family. This is my first time working win AN type fittings...
 
1.  As Clint mentioned, have you 
experienced any "sweating" or leaking issues with 
AN fittings? 
 
2. What type of fitting would I need to get to 
attach the braided stainless hose to the tank sending unit's barb 
fitting?
 
3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads 
be appropriate on fuel lines?
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb 
  Lumpp 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  Hi Larry,
   
  You've got the right idea going with the -8 line.  Right now I 
  have -6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the 
  filter, to the pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb.  However, 
  I'm in the process of getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to 
  -8.  As for the filter, I originally had an inline type filter on the 
  frame rail by the engine mounted fuel pump but found out that any large 
  debris caught by an inline filter can significantly reduce fuel flow 
  at the worst possible time - at the drag strip!  After that happened 
  I mounted a Fram canister style fuel filter back by the gas 
  tank.  Also, I covered the line from the pump to the carb with Thermo 
  tech sleeving.
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PMTo: 
The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter
Doug,
 
I was thinking about running a braided hose 
all the way as well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to 
go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit 
designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan 
anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the 
wrong direction.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mumper, Douglas 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
      Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 
  9:26 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  I am doing the same thing on 66 
  chevelle 400 SB 750 demon carb.  I am going to run braided -6AN 
  hose all the way and put a filter in line.  I am using -6an 
  connectors no clamps!!  my only concern is that -6an hose is .032 
  smaller in dia. hope this is not too small for my 
  750 carb??
   
  Doug
  1966 Malibu
  
  
  From: Larry Shouse 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, 
  February 26, 2006 7:44 PMTo: Chevelle 
  ListSub

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

Walt,

You say your current set-up has been in place for a decade - has the 
manufacturing process or materials used for the lining changes over the 
years to account for it's longevity you think?


I'll have a clear in-line filter up where I can see the fuel, and will keep 
an eye on it.


Speaking of maintenance, have you ever had to go back and tighten the 
fittings from time to time?


Thanks,

Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter



I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One thing to
keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will deteriorate
over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and put nice rubber
chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the current -
8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I keep it
moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.
Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o gas in
the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or
needle/seats.

Walt
http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm



- Original Message -
From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run all
steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
"sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's
method is a good one.
Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
 - Original Message - 
 From: Larry Shouse

 To: The Chevelle Mailing List
 Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


 Doug,

 I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well.
I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit
p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed
to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan anyways,
unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the
wrong direction.

 Larry Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[wbainey]

 I've been running braided line on my car for years.  One thing to 
keep in mind is that it is a maintenance item.  It will deteriorate 
over time.  The inside lining will deteriorate and put nice rubber 
chunks in your needle/seats.  I "knock on wood" have had the current -
8 feed and return in my car for a decade w/o problems but I keep it 
moving and up until this winter it has been in a heated garage.  
 Many problems I have seen have come from cars sitting w/o gas in 
the lines.  The rubber dry rots and will clog the regulator or 
needle/seats.

Walt
 http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm

 

- Original Message -
From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:06 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

> Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not to run all 
> steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings 
> "sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's 
> method is a good one.
> Clint Hooper
> H&H Custom,owner
> 1969 El Camino ProTourer
> 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Larry Shouse 
>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
>  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> 
> 
>  Doug,
> 
>  I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well. 
> I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit 
> p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed 
> to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan anyways, 
> unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the 
> wrong direction.
> 
>  Larry Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Herb Lumpp]

Larry,
 
I 
haven't had any "sweating" issues with my steel braided lines or fittings.  
As long as you properly assemble the fittings/lines they shouldn't leak.  
Ensure the ends of the fittings and internal threads are well lubricated before 
putting the pieces together, and it helps to have a set of aluminum vise jaws 
and aluminum a/n wrenches when you assemble the fittings.
 
Before 
I installed the rear sump, I had a worm gear clamp to hold the braided line to 
the sending unit's barb.  I don't know if that was the right way to do it 
or not, but it worked with no leaks.
 
As 
Dale mentioned, the a/n fitting seals on the 37* flare, not the threads.  
However, you can use Teflon tape or thread sealer on the pipe threads of the a/n 
to pipe thread adapters.
 
Also, 
the shut-off valve is a great idea to include in your fuel system, especially 
when you need to disassemble a fuel line or change the filter.  It's also 
makes a good theft deterrent.
Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
  ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:27 PMTo: The 
  Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  Herb,
   
  Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my way 
  around cars after a 25 year break while serving my country and raising a 
  family. This is my first time working win AN type fittings...
   
  1.  As Clint mentioned, have you experienced 
  any "sweating" or leaking issues with AN fittings? 
   
  2. What type of fitting would I need to get to 
  attach the braided stainless hose to the tank sending unit's barb 
  fitting?
   
  3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads be 
  appropriate on fuel lines?
   
  Thanks for your help.
   
  Larry Shouse
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Herb 
Lumpp 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter

Hi 
Larry,
 
You've got the right idea going with the -8 line.  Right now I 
have -6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the 
filter, to the pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb.  However, 
I'm in the process of getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to 
-8.  As for the filter, I originally had an inline type filter on the 
frame rail by the engine mounted fuel pump but found out that any large 
debris caught by an inline filter can significantly reduce fuel flow at 
the worst possible time - at the drag strip!  After that happened I 
mounted a Fram canister style fuel filter back by the gas tank.  
Also, I covered the line from the pump to the carb with Thermo tech 
sleeving.
Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
  ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PMTo: 
  The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  Doug,
   
  I was thinking about running a braided hose 
  all the way as well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to 
  go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit 
  designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan 
  anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the 
  wrong direction.
   
  Larry Shouse
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Mumper, Douglas 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

    Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 
9:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter

I am doing the same thing on 66 chevelle 400 SB 750 
demon carb.  I am going to run braided -6AN hose all the way and 
put a filter in line.  I am using -6an connectors no clamps!!  
my only concern is that -6an hose is .032 smaller in dia. hope this is 
not too small for my 750 carb??
 
Doug
1966 Malibu


From: Larry Shouse 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 
26, 2006 7:44 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: 
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

I'm getting ready to run new fuel line from 
tank to my mechanical fuel pump (Holley 110gph) to carb. Any suggestions 
concerning type of fuel lines to use, and what you are using to filter 
your fuel and placement of filter(s) would be appreciated.
 
Also, is anybody out there insulating the 
fuel line coming up to the carb?
 
Thanks,
Larry 
Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

I'm trying to draw up a schematic now of what I used.  I'll send to you
offline if you'll give me your email address.  Mine is [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Dale McIntosh
67 El Camino
1967 Chevelle Reference CD
http://www.chevellecd.com
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:47 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

I like your manual shut-off valve idea. I'll have to get me one.

Larry
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter


> Herb/Larry, don't mean to butt in but here was my approach.
>
> 1. Fuel tank to an inline filter (GF61 type [I think] w/3/8" barb on both
> ends and use a standard 3/8" fuel hose or Russell 'Twist-Lok' -6 hose. 
> You
> may have extra Russell hose (left over from the next step) depending on 
> how
> short a piece you can get commercially. Usually the shortest piece is 
> 3-foot
> so you have plenty. The Russell hose is kind of an ugly baby blue color 
> but
> it should be up and out of view.
> 2. Russell 'Twist-Lok' hose to Russell 'Twist-Lok' -6 female fitting, 
> #2401.
> This is a no-crimp fitting for the hose and is barbed end makes the seal.
> The female end will then take a standard A/N -6 male to continue to your
> fuel pump. Naturally if you don't want to run the fuel filter at the rear,
> you can use the same hose to connect to your fuel tank bung and secure it
> with a standard worm drive clamp.
>
> I actually went a bit further and put a manual shut-off valve between the
> fuel tank and the filter.  Served two purposes: (1) When the car was 
> parked
> at hotels for shows, I simply crawled underneath and shut the fuel supply
> off. Car might have gone 10 feet before running dry if someone tried to
> steal it. Who'd think to look for a manual fuel shut off valve in front of
> the gas tank? (2) A more practical reason was the convenience of being 
> able
> to shut off the fuel from the tank to the filter when the filter needed to
> be changed.  Saved me from having gas run down my arm when filter was
> removed.
>
> Be happy to email you more specifics offline.
>
> Dale McIntosh
> 67 El Camino
> 1967 Chevelle Reference CD
> http://www.chevellecd.com
> ACES #1709/TC Gold #92
> 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:27 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>
> Herb,
>
> Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my way around cars after a 25 
> year
> break while serving my country and raising a family. This is my first time
> working win AN type fittings...
>
> 1. As Clint mentioned, have you experienced any "sweating" or leaking
> issues with AN fittings?
>
> 2. What type of fitting would I need to get to attach the braided 
> stainless
> hose to the tank sending unit's barb fitting?
>
> 3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads be appropriate on fuel 
> lines?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Larry Shouse
> - Original Message - 
> From: Herb Lumpp
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
>
> Hi Larry,
>
> You've got the right idea going with the -8 line. Right now I have
> -6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the filter, to 
> the
> pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb. However, I'm in the process 
> of
> getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to -8. As for the filter, I
> originally had an inline type filter on the frame rail by the engine 
> mounted
> fuel pump but found out that any large debris caught by an inline filter 
> can
> significantly reduce fuel flow at the worst possible time - at the drag
> strip! After that happened I mounted a Fram canister style fuel filter 
> back
> by the gas tank. Also, I covered the line from the pump to the carb with
> Thermo tech sleeving.
> Herb Lumpp
> http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Shouse
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
> Doug,
>
> I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well. I have 
> the
> same concerns you do, so I'm pla

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

I like your manual shut-off valve idea. I'll have to get me one.

Larry
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter



Herb/Larry, don't mean to butt in but here was my approach.

1. Fuel tank to an inline filter (GF61 type [I think] w/3/8" barb on both
ends and use a standard 3/8" fuel hose or Russell 'Twist-Lok' -6 hose. 
You
may have extra Russell hose (left over from the next step) depending on 
how
short a piece you can get commercially. Usually the shortest piece is 
3-foot
so you have plenty. The Russell hose is kind of an ugly baby blue color 
but

it should be up and out of view.
2. Russell 'Twist-Lok' hose to Russell 'Twist-Lok' -6 female fitting, 
#2401.

This is a no-crimp fitting for the hose and is barbed end makes the seal.
The female end will then take a standard A/N -6 male to continue to your
fuel pump. Naturally if you don't want to run the fuel filter at the rear,
you can use the same hose to connect to your fuel tank bung and secure it
with a standard worm drive clamp.

I actually went a bit further and put a manual shut-off valve between the
fuel tank and the filter.  Served two purposes: (1) When the car was 
parked

at hotels for shows, I simply crawled underneath and shut the fuel supply
off. Car might have gone 10 feet before running dry if someone tried to
steal it. Who'd think to look for a manual fuel shut off valve in front of
the gas tank? (2) A more practical reason was the convenience of being 
able

to shut off the fuel from the tank to the filter when the filter needed to
be changed.  Saved me from having gas run down my arm when filter was
removed.

Be happy to email you more specifics offline.

Dale McIntosh
67 El Camino
1967 Chevelle Reference CD
http://www.chevellecd.com
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:27 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

Herb,

Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my way around cars after a 25 
year

break while serving my country and raising a family. This is my first time
working win AN type fittings...

1. As Clint mentioned, have you experienced any "sweating" or leaking
issues with AN fittings?

2. What type of fitting would I need to get to attach the braided 
stainless

hose to the tank sending unit's barb fitting?

3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads be appropriate on fuel 
lines?


Thanks for your help.

Larry Shouse
- Original Message ----- 
From: Herb Lumpp

To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

Hi Larry,

You've got the right idea going with the -8 line. Right now I have
-6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the filter, to 
the
pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb. However, I'm in the process 
of

getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to -8. As for the filter, I
originally had an inline type filter on the frame rail by the engine 
mounted
fuel pump but found out that any large debris caught by an inline filter 
can

significantly reduce fuel flow at the worst possible time - at the drag
strip! After that happened I mounted a Fram canister style fuel filter 
back

by the gas tank. Also, I covered the line from the pump to the carb with
Thermo tech sleeving.
Herb Lumpp
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
Doug,

I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well. I have 
the

same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3
which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT
components. That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and
tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.

Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: Mumper, Douglas

To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

I am doing the same thing on 66 chevelle 400 SB 750 demon carb. I am going
to run braided -6AN hose all the way and put a filter in line. I am using
-6an connectors no clamps!! my only concern is that -6an hose is .032
smaller in dia. hope this is not too small for my 750 carb??

Doug
1966 Malibu

____
From: Larry Shouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 7:44 PM
To: Chevelle List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
I'm getting ready to run new fuel line from tank

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

Roger, copy.  Either Teflon tape or other
sealant if necessary on the fuel pump fitting – never on the A/N side. 



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
6:33 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



So you're saying on the fittings coming out of the fuel
pump, the NPT end going into the pump gets the tape but the AN fitting at the
other end does not.





 





Thanks for your posts.





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Dale






To: 'The
Chevelle Mailing List' 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 7:17 PM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 



Forgot to answer one other question you
had concerning Teflon tape.  NO, no tape on A/N fittings –
ever.  It’s not the threads that do the sealing, it’s the 37
degree flare.  If you are using any NPT fittings in your fuel pump,
that’s where the tape can be used.



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
6:07 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



That was what I was thinking Dale. I wasn't looking forward
to running a new hard line through the frame. From the outside, the old fuel
line looked fine - where I could see... I blew compressed air through it over
the weekend with a clean rag covering the other end to see what comes out. At
first, very little came out, then I heard a loud pop, and saw a cloud of dust
under the car. There was dirt and dust flying out from two or three different
places. So much for using the old line.





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Dale






To: 'The
Chevelle Mailing List' 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 6:21 PM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 



I had braided hose from the tank to the
fuel rail on my 67 w/FI.  Personally I didn’t notice any fuel
smells. I used braided line rather than a hard line mainly because it was
easier to tuck up out of the way along the frame rail. Once I figured out how
to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. It was a
little more expensive than hard line but, then again, it’s harder to
kink. 



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Clint Hooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
5:12 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



Like I said,I don't know true it is,Larry. Maybe Herb can
offer some more input on his set-up.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





 





Thanks for the heads up Clint. Since I already ordered the
braided hose kit today, I guess I get to be your guinea pig. I will report back
with my findings before summer...





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Clint Hooper 





 





Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not
to run all steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
"sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's method
is a good one.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





To: The
Chevelle Mailing List 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 11:14 AM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 





Doug,





 





I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as
well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3
which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT
components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and
tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.





 





Larry Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

So you're saying on the fittings coming out of the 
fuel pump, the NPT end going into the pump gets the tape but the AN fitting at 
the other end does not.
 
Thanks for your posts.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 7:17 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  
  Forgot to answer 
  one other question you had concerning Teflon tape.  NO, no tape on A/N 
  fittings – ever.  It’s not the threads that do the sealing, it’s the 37 
  degree flare.  If you are using any NPT fittings in your fuel pump, 
  that’s where the tape can be used.
  
  Dale 
  McIntosh 
  67 El 
  Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference 
  CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold 
  #92 
  
  
  
  
  
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:07 
  PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing 
  ListSubject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
   
  
  That was what I was thinking Dale. 
  I wasn't looking forward to running a new hard line through the frame. From 
  the outside, the old fuel line looked fine - where I could see... I blew 
  compressed air through it over the weekend with a clean rag covering the other 
  end to see what comes out. At first, very little came out, then I heard a loud 
  pop, and saw a cloud of dust under the car. There was dirt and dust flying out 
  from two or three different places. So much for using the old 
  line.
  
   
  
  Larry 
  Shouse
  

- Original Message - 


From: Dale 


To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 


Sent: Monday, 
February 27, 2006 6:21 PM

    Subject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

 
I had braided 
hose from the tank to the fuel rail on my 67 w/FI.  Personally I didn’t 
notice any fuel smells. I used braided line rather than a hard line mainly 
because it was easier to tuck up out of the way along the frame rail. Once I 
figured out how to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty 
simple. It was a little more expensive than hard line but, then again, it’s 
harder to kink. 

Dale 
McIntosh 
67 El 
Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference 
CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC 
Gold #92 





From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:12 
PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing 
ListSubject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
 

Like I said,I don't know true it 
is,Larry. Maybe Herb can offer some more input on his 
set-up.

Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El 
Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

  
  - Original Message - 
  
  
  From: Larry Shouse 
  
  
   
  
  Thanks for the heads up Clint. 
  Since I already ordered the braided hose kit today, I guess I get to be 
  your guinea pig. I will report back with my findings before 
  summer...
  
   
  
  Larry 
  Shouse
  

- Original Message - 


From: Clint Hooper 


 

Don't know how true it is 
but I have always heard not to run all steel braided hose on a 
street car. Something about the fittings "sweating" and creating a 
strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's method is a good 
one.

Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El 
Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

  
  - Original Message 
  - 
  
  From: 
  Larry Shouse 
  
  
  To: 
  The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
  
  Sent: 
  Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
  
  Subject: 
  Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
  
   
  
  Doug,
  
   
  
  I was thinking about 
  running a braided hose all the way as well. I have the same concerns 
  you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 
  8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT 
  components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can 
  speak up and tell me I'm headed in the wrong 
  direction.
  
   
  
  Larry 
  Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

Forgot to answer one other question you
had concerning Teflon tape.  NO, no tape on A/N fittings – ever.  It’s
not the threads that do the sealing, it’s the 37 degree flare.  If you
are using any NPT fittings in your fuel pump, that’s where the tape can
be used.



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
6:07 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



That was what I was thinking Dale. I wasn't looking forward
to running a new hard line through the frame. From the outside, the old fuel
line looked fine - where I could see... I blew compressed air through it over
the weekend with a clean rag covering the other end to see what comes out. At
first, very little came out, then I heard a loud pop, and saw a cloud of dust
under the car. There was dirt and dust flying out from two or three different
places. So much for using the old line.





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Dale






To: 'The
Chevelle Mailing List' 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 6:21 PM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 



I had braided hose from the tank to the
fuel rail on my 67 w/FI.  Personally I didn’t notice any fuel
smells. I used braided line rather than a hard line mainly because it was
easier to tuck up out of the way along the frame rail. Once I figured out how
to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. It was a
little more expensive than hard line but, then again, it’s harder to
kink. 



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Clint Hooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
5:12 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



Like I said,I don't know true it is,Larry. Maybe Herb can
offer some more input on his set-up.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





 





Thanks for the heads up Clint. Since I already ordered the
braided hose kit today, I guess I get to be your guinea pig. I will report back
with my findings before summer...





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Clint Hooper 





 





Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not
to run all steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
"sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's method
is a good one.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





To: The
Chevelle Mailing List 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 11:14 AM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 





Doug,





 





I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as
well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3
which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT
components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and
tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.





 





Larry Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

That was what I was thinking Dale. I wasn't looking 
forward to running a new hard line through the frame. From the outside, the old 
fuel line looked fine - where I could see... I blew compressed air through it 
over the weekend with a clean rag covering the other end to see what comes out. 
At first, very little came out, then I heard a loud pop, and saw a cloud of dust 
under the car. There was dirt and dust flying out from two or three different 
places. So much for using the old line.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 6:21 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  
  I had braided hose 
  from the tank to the fuel rail on my 67 w/FI.  Personally I didn’t notice 
  any fuel smells. I used braided line rather than a hard line mainly because it 
  was easier to tuck up out of the way along the frame rail. Once I figured out 
  how to cut the ends off cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. It was 
  a little more expensive than hard line but, then again, it’s harder to kink. 
  
  
  Dale 
  McIntosh 
  67 El 
  Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference 
  CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold 
  #92 
  
  
  
  
  
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:12 
  PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing 
  ListSubject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
   
  
  Like I said,I don't know true it 
  is,Larry. Maybe Herb can offer some more input on his 
  set-up.
  
  Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino 
  ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  

- Original Message - 


From: Larry Shouse 


 

Thanks for the heads up Clint. 
Since I already ordered the braided hose kit today, I guess I get to be your 
guinea pig. I will report back with my findings before 
summer...

 

Larry 
Shouse

  
  - Original Message - 
  
  
  From: Clint Hooper 
  
  
   
  
  Don't know how true it is but 
  I have always heard not to run all steel braided hose on a street 
  car. Something about the fittings "sweating" and creating a strong fuel 
  smell in the car. GM66's method is a good 
  one.
  
  Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El 
  Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  

- Original Message - 


From: Larry Shouse 


To: The Chevelle Mailing List 


Sent: 
Monday, February 27, 2006 11:14 AM
    
    Subject: Re: 
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

 

Doug,

 

I was thinking about running 
a braided hose all the way as well. I have the same concerns you do, so 
I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 
AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT 
components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak 
up and tell me I'm headed in the wrong 
direction.

 

Larry 
Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

Herb/Larry, don’t mean to butt in but here was my approach.

1. Fuel tank to an inline filter (GF61 type [I think] w/3/8” barb on both
ends and use a standard 3/8” fuel hose or Russell ‘Twist-Lok’ -6 hose.  You
may have extra Russell hose (left over from the next step) depending on how
short a piece you can get commercially. Usually the shortest piece is 3-foot
so you have plenty. The Russell hose is kind of an ugly baby blue color but
it should be up and out of view.
2. Russell 'Twist-Lok' hose to Russell 'Twist-Lok' -6 female fitting, #2401.
This is a no-crimp fitting for the hose and is barbed end makes the seal.
The female end will then take a standard A/N -6 male to continue to your
fuel pump. Naturally if you don't want to run the fuel filter at the rear,
you can use the same hose to connect to your fuel tank bung and secure it
with a standard worm drive clamp.

I actually went a bit further and put a manual shut-off valve between the
fuel tank and the filter.  Served two purposes: (1) When the car was parked
at hotels for shows, I simply crawled underneath and shut the fuel supply
off. Car might have gone 10 feet before running dry if someone tried to
steal it. Who'd think to look for a manual fuel shut off valve in front of
the gas tank? (2) A more practical reason was the convenience of being able
to shut off the fuel from the tank to the filter when the filter needed to
be changed.  Saved me from having gas run down my arm when filter was
removed.

Be happy to email you more specifics offline.

Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD 
http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 5:27 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

Herb,
 
Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my way around cars after a 25 year
break while serving my country and raising a family. This is my first time
working win AN type fittings...
 
1.  As Clint mentioned, have you experienced any "sweating" or leaking
issues with AN fittings? 
 
2. What type of fitting would I need to get to attach the braided stainless
hose to the tank sending unit's barb fitting?
 
3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads be appropriate on fuel lines?
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: Herb Lumpp 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

Hi Larry,
 
You've got the right idea going with the -8 line.  Right now I have
-6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the filter, to the
pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb.  However, I'm in the process of
getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to -8.  As for the filter, I
originally had an inline type filter on the frame rail by the engine mounted
fuel pump but found out that any large debris caught by an inline filter can
significantly reduce fuel flow at the worst possible time - at the drag
strip!  After that happened I mounted a Fram canister style fuel filter back
by the gas tank.  Also, I covered the line from the pump to the carb with
Thermo tech sleeving.
Herb Lumpp
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Larry Shouse
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
Doug,
 
I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as well. I have the
same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3
which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT
components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and
tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.
 
Larry Shouse
- Original Message - 
From: Mumper, Douglas 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

I am doing the same thing on 66 chevelle 400 SB 750 demon carb.  I am going
to run braided -6AN hose all the way and put a filter in line.  I am using
-6an connectors no clamps!!  my only concern is that -6an hose is .032
smaller in dia. hope this is not too small for my 750 carb??
 
Doug
1966 Malibu


From: Larry Shouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 7:44 PM
To: Chevelle List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
I'm getting ready to run new fuel line from tank to my mechanical fuel pump
(Holley 110gph) to carb. Any suggestions concerning type of fuel lines to
use, and what you are using to filter your fuel and placement of filter(s)
would be appreciated.
 
Also, is anybody out there insulating the fuel line coming up to the carb?
 
Thanks,
Larry Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Larry Shouse]

Herb,
 
Thanks for your input. I'm still learning my way 
around cars after a 25 year break while serving my country and raising a family. 
This is my first time working win AN type fittings...
 
1.  As Clint mentioned, have you experienced 
any "sweating" or leaking issues with AN fittings? 
 
2. What type of fitting would I need to get to 
attach the braided stainless hose to the tank sending unit's barb 
fitting?
 
3. Would the use of teflon tape on the threads be 
appropriate on fuel lines?
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb Lumpp 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:50 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  Hi 
  Larry,
   
  You've got the right idea going with the -8 line.  Right now I 
  have -6 supply line from the tank (modified w/ rear sump), to the filter, 
  to the pump, and then -8 from the pump to the carb.  However, I'm in the 
  process of getting the pieces to convert all the -6 to -8.  As for 
  the filter, I originally had an inline type filter on the frame rail by the 
  engine mounted fuel pump but found out that any large debris caught by an 
  inline filter can significantly reduce fuel flow at the worst possible 
  time - at the drag strip!  After that happened I mounted a Fram 
  canister style fuel filter back by the gas tank.  Also, I covered the 
  line from the pump to the carb with Thermo tech sleeving.
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:15 PMTo: The 
Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
Filter
Doug,
 
I was thinking about running a braided hose all 
the way as well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with 
Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3 which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to 
work with 3/8 in. NPT components.  That's my plan anyways, unless 
somebody here can speak up and tell me I'm headed in the wrong 
direction.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mumper, Douglas 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 9:26 
      AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel 
  Filter
  
  I am doing the same thing on 66 chevelle 400 SB 750 
  demon carb.  I am going to run braided -6AN hose all the way and put 
  a filter in line.  I am using -6an connectors no clamps!!  my 
  only concern is that -6an hose is .032 smaller in dia. hope this is not 
  too small for my 750 carb??
   
  Doug
  1966 Malibu
  
  
  From: Larry Shouse 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 
  26, 2006 7:44 PMTo: Chevelle ListSubject: 
  [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter
  
  I'm getting ready to run new fuel line from 
  tank to my mechanical fuel pump (Holley 110gph) to carb. Any suggestions 
  concerning type of fuel lines to use, and what you are using to filter 
  your fuel and placement of filter(s) would be appreciated.
   
  Also, is anybody out there insulating the 
  fuel line coming up to the carb?
   
  Thanks,
  Larry 
  Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter

[Dale]

I had braided hose from the tank to the
fuel rail on my 67 w/FI.  Personally I didn’t notice any fuel smells. I used
braided line rather than a hard line mainly because it was easier to tuck up
out of the way along the frame rail. Once I figured out how to cut the ends off
cleanly for the fittings, it was pretty simple. It was a little more expensive
than hard line but, then again, it’s harder to kink. 



Dale McIntosh 
67 El Camino 
1967 Chevelle Reference CD

http://www.chevellecd.com 
ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 











From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Clint Hooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006
5:12 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel
Filter



 



Like I said,I don't know true it is,Larry. Maybe Herb can
offer some more input on his set-up.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





 





Thanks for the heads up Clint. Since I already ordered the
braided hose kit today, I guess I get to be your guinea pig. I will report back
with my findings before summer...





 





Larry Shouse







- Original Message - 





From: Clint Hooper 





 





Don't know how true it is but I have always heard not
to run all steel braided hose on a street car. Something about the fittings
"sweating" and creating a strong fuel smell in the car. GM66's method
is a good one.





Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino ProTourer
2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm







- Original Message - 





From: Larry Shouse 





To: The
Chevelle Mailing List 





Sent: Monday, February
27, 2006 11:14 AM





Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] Fuel Filter





 





Doug,





 





I was thinking about running a braided hose all the way as
well. I have the same concerns you do, so I'm planning to go with Summit p/n SUM-PUMPKIT3
which is a - 8 AN diameter fuel line kit designed to work with 3/8 in. NPT
components.  That's my plan anyways, unless somebody here can speak up and
tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.





 





Larry Shouse