Stus-List Re: C&C 40 custom pilothouse
Not seeing the draft, which I know is important to you. Looks really nice. I think you just need to go look at it, then you can tour the maritime museum. And the thousand Islands. Why Knot? \ Bill Coleman Erie PA On Thu, May 30, 2024 at 3:57 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I think I posted about this before: > > 1983 C&C 40 Custom Pilothouse Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld > <https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1983-c$c-40-custom-pilothouse-9302868/> > > www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1983-c$c-40-custom-pilothouse-9302868/ > > > > This has to be one of the most unusual C&Cs ever. I am 50/50 on if it is > great or a hot mess. > > Has anyone ever seen this boat? > > Two things come to mind that might be negatives, can you see over the > pilothouse or do you look through it? > > Second, thinking about being healed way over in 20 foot seas and coming > down the companionway ladder on a port tack, that could be challenge and > then some. Maybe that isn’t a thing on Lake Ontario? > > OTOH don’t rig it and you have on hell of a Great Loop boat! > > > > > > *Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I* > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Original Waterline Dimensions
Practical Sailor June Issue is all about waterlines and stripes! I used 3M 1/2" reflective tape for the cove stripe, 1" for the waterline, and it looks really sharp, especially in low light. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Wed, May 29, 2024 at 8:59 AM John McCrea via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > > > Talisman is getting painted this week and we will need to redo the > waterlines. Does anyone know the original factory waterline sizes? Looking > at the brochures, it looks like a 5 or so-inch line on the bottom and maybe > 2 on top. Also, has anyone done the C&C inlay with gold leaf paint? Source? > Thanks. > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > 1979 C&C 36 > > Mystic, CT > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Material choice & Sources for clear hatch boards
I used 1/2" Lexan, (Tuffak) for both hatch board and sliding hatch cover. Coincidentally, I just came across a couple pieces that I never used, that I was thinking of putting on EBay - Let me know what sizes you need off list. Lexan is handy if you think anyone might be shooting at you. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Wed, May 29, 2024 at 9:53 AM Karl Kuzis via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Good day all, > > *FIREFLY *is in need of a hatch board upgrade from her one piece solid > wood slab. > Looking to move back to a 3 part style with (at least) 1 part made of a > clear(ish) plastic. > > The question to the group is who has used what type of plastic and how > have they held up. > (Plexiglass vs lexan vs ?) > > And associated, who has a good source for the material ? > > I have the ability to shape / cut / etc so I don't need a finished > product, simply raw stock material. > Thanks in advance for the input! > > Respectfully, Karl > > Karl Kuzis > *FIREFLY - *C&C 29 Mk 1 > karl.ku...@gmail.com > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: new jib sheet
I've got some stuff, not really sure what it is but I think it is 9/16 & with a dynema core and a nice grippy cover. It's nice because there's no stretch. Bill Coleman On Sun, May 26, 2024, 11:05 Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: > I snapped a jib sheet on my 35 Saturday. Suggestions on type of line for > replacing? > > Bob > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Outhaul
Yes! I also did this when I added a new boom to my vintage 39, I think it was a 6:1, I welded the heads of some screws to the forward attachment, and hot glued it to a stick so I could poke it in there and then could just tighten up some elastic stop nuts on the bottom of the boom. This all came about after losing my first place in a race after screwing up an outhaul tightening after a jibe, due to the archaic system of a little winch on the boom that required someone to go up close to the mast to crank up the outhaul. At deck level of 45 degrees. I swore after that I was done with that type of outhaul. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 1:13 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Our C&C 34R came with a short wire outhaul that we added a 4:1 purchase > that lives inside the boom. A 3/8" line exits the goosneck and is run back > to a clutch next to the companionway. You can tension the outhaul by hand > instead of using a winch, this way. Harken shows a diagram of this setup > on their website. > > Chuck S > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: 24 V vs. 12V Battery for 24 V system
Whoops, sorry, that went flying out of here before I was done reviewing - should say rather than two 12V in Series. On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 12:31 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Wondering if the electrically savvy in the group have a feeling as to > whether it makes more sense to use 24V Batteries in Parallel rather than > two in series. My gut tells me that plain 24V would make more sense, but > this is not my area of expertise. > > Thanks > Bill Coleman > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List 24 V vs. 12V Battery for 24 V system
Wondering if the electrically savvy in the group have a feeling as to whether it makes more sense to use 24V Batteries in Parallel rather than two in series. My gut tells me that plain 24V would make more sense, but this is not my area of expertise. Thanks Bill Coleman Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: To pressure wash or not
It might have to do with how ablative it is - I am using Petit Odyssey Trinidad, which is considered ablative, but tough enough to take a mild pressure washing and still be good. I would say if they let you do the pressure washing, you can see how it is going. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 12:02 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello all > I'm getting ready to haul Rebecca Leah for the summer here in Mexico. My > question is should I pressure wash after haul out or have the bottom > cleaned now before hauling? > I'm using an Ablative paint. I will splash again in late Oct. > Thanks > Doug > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 C&C LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List C&C 40 Review
Nice Review in Practical Sailor on the C&C 40 https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/cc-40-still-turning-heads?MailingID=1633&sc=GB20240426-FixItAndSail&st=email&utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=C%26C%2040%20Used%20Boat%20Review&utm_campaign=GB20240426-FixItAndSail Bill Coleman Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Stiff rudder - C&C 37
In addition to what Chuck says, Maybe check your quadrant, sometimes the Rudder can slip down - see if it may be rubbing on the top of the housing - or maybe on the top bearing, if there is one. Bill Coleman On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 11:11 AM Ryan Anderson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The rudder on our C&C 37 is very stiff. I suspect the grease in the rudder > post is old and thickened, does anyone have a suggestion on how to address > this problem in the water? > > There is a zerk fitting on the rudder post. I'm considering putting in > some kind of thinner oil, and then pushing in new grease. I > disconnected the cables on the steering quadrant, the helm was easy to turn > after that and I was unable to turn the rudder by hand. > > Ryan > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Rebuilding Rudder
Interesting DIY in Epoxyworks about rebuilding a waterlogged C&C 32 Rudder. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-wet-core-in-rudder/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=EW_58&utm_content=another-spade Bill Coleman Erie, PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Standing Rigging
Well, it was more than 50' to be sure, probably not a fair comparison, Maybe if I had given them the old pieces they could have re-used the old eyes, but they didn't ask for them, and I wanted to keep the old pieces. The Dyneema is covered in a black tube all the way around the eyes to keep the sun off it, which is nice. I met nice fellow at the boat show from BSI, I think, I thought I could get it through him, but he eventually referred me down the line finally to the Rigging Co in Annapolis, who probably tacked on another 40%. And all this after Annapolis Rigging ripped me off for 1800 bucks earlier, so the whole thing is a rather sore subject. Bill Coleman Erie PA Entrada On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 11:48 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The deal with Dyneema is supposedly it is only expensive ONCE, the > fittings can be reused and the actual Dyneema replaced cheaply. > > It should not have cost much at all to just replace the line, was it > really $4,000 for 50 feet of it > > > > > > *Joe Della Barba* > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, April 15, 2024 11:23 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Bill Coleman > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Standing Rigging > > > > I think you will find it is a fair amount more $$, for little gain. > Probably have to change a lot of your attachments as well. > > I replaced my backstay (split) with Dyneema, only because that's what it > was originally. After spending 4 grand on that, I wonder why I did it for > the little weight savings, when I could have replaced it with rod myself > for next to nothing. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Erie PA Entrada > > > > On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 9:51 AM Karl Erickson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Has anyone looked into replacing their standing rigging with Dyneema? I am > in the process of replacing my lifelines with dyneema and have heard of > boat owners that have replaced their standing rigging with it. Just curious. > > > > Karl Erickson > > 1978 C&C 34 > > SeaBatical > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Standing Rigging
I think you will find it is a fair amount more $$, for little gain. Probably have to change a lot of your attachments as well. I replaced my backstay (split) with Dyneema, only because that's what it was originally. After spending 4 grand on that, I wonder why I did it for the little weight savings, when I could have replaced it with rod myself for next to nothing. Bill Coleman Erie PA Entrada On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 9:51 AM Karl Erickson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Has anyone looked into replacing their standing rigging with Dyneema? I am > in the process of replacing my lifelines with dyneema and have heard of > boat owners that have replaced their standing rigging with it. Just curious. > > Karl Erickson > 1978 C&C 34 > SeaBatical > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 34+ with trailer
Only thing is, I don't see anywhere in that ad where is says the trailer is included - Maybe he is just showing it to show he can move it. Bill Coleman On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 2:22 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > https://delaware.craigslist.org/bod/d/wilmington-1990-cc-34/7729712631.html > > > > I have to say this is the first time I have seen a boat this size with a > trailer. I am pretty sure my Volvo would get a hernia or something trying > to tow it. > > I like the layout 😊 > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C&c 35 MkI
Couple of years ago, at winterization time, I unscrewed the cap on My Engine Groco Filter and found a perfect little bass just through the input laying on the screen! I couldn't believe he got pulled through that far! Bill Coleman Erie PA On Mon, Apr 8, 2024 at 11:42 AM Matthew Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I installed Groco filters on my 34 and 42 Custom. Better than sucking a > plastic bag or weeds into your system. > > > > *From:* Glen Eddie via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, April 8, 2024 9:00 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Glen Eddie > *Subject:* Stus-List raw water filter set up for C&c 35 MkI > > > > Hello everyone, > > > > I was wondering whether anyone has installed a water intake filter system > for the raw water intake on an atomic 4. Specifically, the water thru haul > is pretty close to the water pump hook up and any filter that is not an > inline filter would require some right angles on the plumbing. > > > > Thanks. > > > > *Glen Eddie********* > > Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation > > Tel: 416-777-5357 > > Fax: 1-888-812-2557 > > ged...@torkinmanes.com > > VCard <http://www.torkinmanes.com/vcard.aspx?ID=glen-eddie> > > *Torkin Manes LLP* > > Barristers & Solicitors > > *Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer* > > 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500 > Toronto ON M5C 2W7 > > torkinmanes.com <http://www.torkinmanes.com/> > > An international member of Ally Law > > This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named > recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential > and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received > this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email > message. Thank you. > > > > > > *Disclaimer* > > The information contained in this communication from the sender is > confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others > authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby > notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in > relation of the contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may > be unlawful. > > This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been > automatically archived by *Mimecast Ltd*, an innovator in Software as a > Service (SaaS) for business. Providing a *safer* and *more useful* place > for your human generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and > compliance. To find out more Click Here > <http://www.mimecast.com/products/>. > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Understanding Polars
On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 2:44 PM Bill Coleman wrote: > I anguish over this nearly every race, and one thing I can tell you is > that whichever choice you decide, you will wish you did the other! > > Bill Coleman > Erie, PA > > > > On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 1:48 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I have a set of polars for my C&C 34+ (below), but I am unsure of how to >> interpret the downwind data. There is no information I have found on how >> the angles were determined. I am interested in best angles for downwind >> work without a spinnaker going wing on wing with a whisker pole. I am >> guessing the data is with a spinnaker and I am not sure if that matters. >> The issue is whether to go wing on wing direct to a mark and go a shorter >> distance vs. wing on wing or not on a lesser angle according to the polar >> chart. I have tried to measure this on my boat and have not found a big >> enough difference to convince myself I should tack downwind. Dave >> >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?
Rick, I can't believe you are still in this predicament, This is 12 years now since you bought a pair of 28ST from me! I think you were looking for 32's then as well. 12 years of winching bliss you have missed out on. Plus, you can then remove at least one cleat per side so one of your passengers don't have to have that up their ass! My crew was so happy when I did that upgrade - So, yes, your Winchmate source seems to have passed the bar, so this is what I would suggest - Quickly go to EBay and buy these https://www.ebay.com/itm/285399208539?itmmeta=01HQK3JWGZHBTXNQ16FW2BEDK9&hash=item42731e525b:g:PiUAAOSw1k5kvram&itmprp=enc%3AAQAI8GYMFDap4isoeE9WRSkbwS1yzZaLRMU0Ij0%2BPYcJciggol3JjnGj%2F8qhZu8ZAKfCWcCawnigLdHeT3b1NmOktPA2le2Eq3BJpnWx8CKqv5Hg8MK2gkv%2BIJ9Zjq6gEbW3b3VwqA15LWK3M6OQTY2wzP7tEwS62pzdJCabLuFln9xMkFJBMMmIKFN5loL6UAv0akTe2jF47U5SFX%2BqCi5f2ldcCbTZU2a80plz%2B%2BIfOdP9ppBCxEy%2Fj4LrX99qj7yMAGxUeQ%2B2x%2FuXr8YRb7pD73YtNHtT2DhZam7H%2FrELTLzxNVKD2cLl98DzEnvzyq9%2FLw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8rIy-O8Yw SS32 Self Tailers while they are still there, You can swap these out with your 32's by just taking the drums off, I think 4 3/8" cap screws, leave your old bases on, and then put your old drums on the ebay bases, and then sell them on ebay for 400, 300 ea, whatever - and Bob's your uncle! Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:23 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I was sort of planning to use part of this year’s tax refund to upgrade > the Barient 32 primaries on Imzadi to selftailers using Winchmate > conversion kits. The converted winches I’ve seen on other boats were very > good, and selftailers would make single handing a lot easier, but I’ve > always seemed to have other priorities in the past. > > > > But when I went to the website I had bookmarked to check the current cost > and lead time, I find the website is down. A search turned up several sites > with recommendations for the conversion kits, and a Winchmate Facebook page > that doesn’t seem to have any recent information on it. > > > > Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business? Or maybe has a new > owner? Contact information? Or can recommend a source for these (or > equivalent) conversion kits? > > > > Any information would be appreciated. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 > > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 > > Washington, NC > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Navtec hydraulic backstay - amateur rebuild
I just went through all that myself in the last couple of years. Kind of like filling your car tires. At first, I borrowed one of my crewmates nitrogen tank and regulator, as he had one for his airplane landing gear. I think it only went to 500 lb. Plus it was a little constraining with the short hose he had. Long story short, I had the local hydraulic shop make me a longer hose, I bought a thousand pound regulator off eBay, and I just use his tank. (Although he fills it up and charges it to me anyway.!) I don't know what model you have, but I have a Sailtec, and even though I read in the manual to put something like 10 or 12 oz of oil in before charging, I figured well, they would have done that already. And before the Summer was out, it had lost its charge. Next year, I put the oil in, and voila still stiff as.. it needs to be. Bill Coleman On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:14 Glenn Henderson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Didn you recondition a boom vang? If so, where did you get the nitrogen > recharge accomplished? > > Glenn Henderson > WeGo > C&C 41 > > On Thu, Feb 15, 2024 at 12:10 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Glad it worked for you. You're welcome. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandevile, LA >> >> On Wed, Feb 14, 2024, 7:15 AM Tom A via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> Shout out to Dennis for helping me replace the end seals on my Navtec, >>> >>> Tom A >>> >>> >>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks for your help. >>> Stu >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: battery charger for sale
I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of time researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new batteries the time is now. Bill Coleman On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a > ProNautic 15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is necessary > for correct charging of any lead-acid battery. It can charge 1, 2, or 3 > batteries and has a lot of settings for various charge profiles. > > It works fine, it is only being removed because I got a bigger charger. > They sell for $350-$400 new, I will send this one to any USA address for > $150 shipped. Canada might be more, I would have to check. > > (Odyssey battery company told me they want their battery charged with at > least a 30 amp charger and ideally a lot more, apparently they need to be > hit hard to stay good) > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 66
Yep, take a C&C 39, multiply all the dimensions by 1.69, and you've got a C&C 66 Bill Coleman On Tue, Jan 16, 2024, 19:49 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Beautiful boat but she's priced pretty high. I'd like to see her keel, > probably a big shark fin. > > 10 foot draft, eight steps down the companionway ladder, the sails must be > huge and the number of crew needed to take her sailing need to be pretty > fit to handle the loads. Probably need a team to carry one sail from the > car to the boat. The view from inside the boat is probably dark and only > cabinetry. You can't see the deck or the water from inside the boat. > > Chuck S > > > > On 01/16/2024 6:16 PM EST Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > It been for sale for a long time > > Joel Delamirande > *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>* > > > > On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 6:01 PM John McCrea via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > An amazing boat! > > > https://www.berthoninternational.com/yacht-sales-brokerage/yachts-for-sale/c-c-66-classic-cruiser-racer-phantom/?fbclid=IwAR1irExXpYusoRn5xUBQHiDEmqzmyrERCsB4M3Tio6KGWC9tYToEP0AdsVg_aem_Ac9padFR6qIGBFwMyRwnXMEsNd-DB6fTpAkFP5eGOOlJIZ0SJjYDKZvigftdzZHKy9w > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
For crying out loud, Richard, You've got to take some calipers to the boat and measure the od of the threads, and take a rule and measure the threads per inch, and the number per millimeter - C&C had both metric and inch on these boats. Failing that, take some pictures and take the nut to a machine shop. Did you get the picture I sent you of the top of my rudder? Most bearing nuts will be in millimeters, as this https://www.skf.com/group/products/rolling-bearings/accessories/lock-nuts/integral-locking and the one shown here is not beefy enough for what you need. Too bad I didn't keep my buddy's bent C&C37 Rudder. Bill Coleman On Mon, Dec 11, 2023 at 5:12 PM Matthew Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Richard: > > > > When you spoke with Rob, did you ask if he knows the diameter/thread size > of the top of the rudder post for that boat? He used to have a lot of > specs on boats (including build files, which are no longer available). > > > > In any event, from prior e-mail it sounded like some of the threads in the > collar you have are not stripped. Given that you’re on the hard, I suggest > blocking the rudder in place (wood blocks and a scissor jack works well for > this) and taking the collar to a machine shop as many have advised. The > shop will be able to quickly determine the size/thread. Bill guessed 1 > 5/8" 13 TPI, but taking the collar with you is best. If you’re interested > in ordering from McMaster-Carr instead of having one fabricated and do not > wish to ask a machine shop for sizing, see if there is an industrial > fastener supply (like Fastenal) anywhere nearby. They sell big nuts/bolts > and should be able to tell you the size. I would also inspect the top of > the internal bushing housing where the quadrant likely hit to ensure no > damage was done. > > > > Relatively easy fix, but some monkeying around. Good luck! > > > > Matt > > > > *From:* Richard Bush > *Sent:* Monday, December 11, 2023 3:53 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* virb...@cogeco.ca; Matthew Wolford > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly > > > > To follow Up; I called Rob at South Shore; he was very patient and > listened to my tale of woe; he said that there was no "off the shelf" part > for this collar and that my best bet would be to have a local machine shop > fabricate one; I have looked at the list on McMaster-Carr (sent by Chris > Reidinger) and I am not sure if any of those would be a replacement or not, > but dsurely something in there should be a place to start...any thought ? > Thanks again > > > > Richard > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > On Saturday, December 9, 2023 at 09:53:00 AM EST, Matthew Wolford via > CnC-List wrote: > > > > > > I suggest starting there. If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to > suggest an alternate source. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Yes they are. > > > > Barry McKee > > > > C&C 29 “Discovery II” > > Bronte, ON > > > > *From:* Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > ] > *Sent:* 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM > *To:* Richard Bush > *Cc:* Stus-List; Matthew Wolford > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly > > > > Is South Shore Yachts still in business? > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush wrote: > > > > Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is a > chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder > post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder > post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are > two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post. The > rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat. > > > > In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to > loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the > threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop. The fix is to get a new > collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no > markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos. > > > > For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining > threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confi
Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
I'm afraid that's not the Droid you're looking for - On the bright side, this is happening over the winter, so you're going to have plenty of time to figure this out. There should be plenty of machine shops in your area, I would suggest you take that nut around and get a price for it, assuming the threads on the shaft are okay. Just A tap to cut the threads on a new nut is 180 bucks- a good machine shop can cut those in with a cutter they have. A friend who also crewed with us bought a 37 like yours. One day he backed out of his slip and it wouldn't go into forward, and he ended up on the rip rap. His insurance bought him a new rudder, I think from South Shore. He offered me his Bent one, and oddly I didn't take it, or I would still have it like everything else and I I could tell you what you need. Bill Coleman On Sat, Dec 9, 2023, 15:05 Chris Riedinger via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-collars/ > > They're called shaft collars > > On Sat, Dec 9, 2023, 10:03 AM Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Or drill and tap the same collar, rotating the holes? >> Or re-drill the same holes and tap and use a larger screw? >> Dave ex-33-2 windstar >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Dec 9, 2023, at 12:56 PM, David Risch via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> Richard…I am sure a competent machine shop can replicate? >> >> >> >> *From:* Matthew Wolford via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Saturday, December 9, 2023 9:52 AM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* virb...@cogeco.ca; Matthew Wolford >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly >> >> >> >> I suggest starting there. If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to >> suggest an alternate source. >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> Yes they are. >> >> >> >> Barry McKee >> >> >> >> C&C 29 “Discovery II” >> >> Bronte, ON >> >> >> >> *From:* Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> ] >> *Sent:* 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM >> *To:* Richard Bush >> *Cc:* Stus-List; Matthew Wolford >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly >> >> >> >> Is South Shore Yachts still in business? >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> >> On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush wrote: >> >> >> >> Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is a >> chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder >> post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder >> post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are >> two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post. The >> rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat. >> >> >> >> In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar >> to loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the >> threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop. The fix is to get a new >> collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no >> markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos. >> >> >> >> For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining >> threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident >> that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar. >> >> >> >> So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's >> "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the >> "bad case" scenario. I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but >> will report back on progress. I would have thought the C&C used the same >> assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but >> maybe not...; >> >> >> >> If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, >> please send them on...Thank you to everyone! >> >> >> >> Richard >> >> Richard N. Bush Law Offices >> >> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine >> >> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 >> >> (502) 584-7255 >> >>
Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly
I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you Bill Coleman Erie PA On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder > issue; my boat (1985 C&C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early > September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past > week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how > this happened; the hull has been painted and the painters said they moved > the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues; does anyone > have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more > importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable? > > > We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to > provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks! > > Richard > 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River... > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Dodgers
This looks like a nice article written by a canvasperson who is also a sailor - A darn good combination. https://marinefabricatormag.com/2023/08/31/sailor-friendly-sailboat-dodger-designs/ Bill Coleman Erie PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay
I think one really important thing is to keep the rods clean and shiny. I often find them gunked up and I try to polish them up. Pulling all that crud past the seals can't be good.. I also put a little felt disc where the rod goes into the cylinder to keep the seal from breaking down under the sunlight as Dennis suggested Bill Coleman On Fri, Nov 17, 2023, 18:49 paul.hood via CnC-List wrote: > Went to a specialty hydralics shop to get mine fixed. They couldn't > don't. Went elsewhere and they did fine. Still wasn't cheap. Done work on > the 2 hydralics and the pump. > > Seems I do have periodic failures in the backstay and pump (seals) too > often and usually experienced after the winter. Not sure if the winters up > here play havoc with the seals but I've taken them off now in the fall. > They're now stored indoors for the winter. Hoping to avoid the expensive > and time consuming spring fixes. > > > Paul Hood > 416.799.5549 > > > Original message > From: David Risch via CnC-List > Date: 2023-11-17 6:27 p.m. (GMT-05:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: David Risch > Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for > backstay > > Just go to a local hydraulic shop. Sorry as a Navtech “technician” ripped > me off for two “re-builds” in two years at $500 an incompetent rebuild. > Construction guys don’t tolerate that crap. $100 once and done. It is > just a pump. > > > > *From:* Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, November 17, 2023 2:12 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders > for backstay > > > > I also like Lew, whom I contacted based on recommendations from this > list. That said, he’s not from NJ (far from it), and shipping cost almost > as much as the work. Also, the rebuild work I had done was prophylactic, > and my unit now has a very minor leak that it didn’t have before. I’m sure > he’d fix it if I sent it back. Bottom line: as much as I like Lew, I > suggest finding someone local. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Nov 17, 2023, at 1:37 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > Second Lew Townsend. He rebuilt mine after another Navtec rebuilder > botched it. Excellent to work with. > > > > -- > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > > > On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:55 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Lew Townsend did all my Navtec hydraulic repairs. Don't know whether he > does Sailtec, but you can call him at (206) 498-7282. He does quality work. > Others on the list have also used him. > > > Alan Bergen > > 35 Mk III Thirsty > > Rose City YC > > Portland, OR > > > > > > > > On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 6:36 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Good morning All, > > > > Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival we > noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. Does > anyone have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them in the > NJ area? > > > > They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do > business with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support local > businesses but also want a quality job. Any suggestions appreciated. > > > > Thanks and have a great weekend, > > > > Allen Miles > > 30 Mk II, Septima > > Bayville, NJ > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!qs2Qvcff0x2r9Xu484Io53CdPY1cNhT0tOLx9hjHxOpx03avqPpvzczr7rQ5cI-zSB2xudbFXoqRejPEBjRfjcI$ > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay
Will Sailtec rebuild it? I have had good luck communicating with them, Kevin Savitt has been more than helpful for a number of problems I have had - ksav...@sailtec.com I know you can buy spare parts from them, and I think their hydraulics are very good quality. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 9:36 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Good morning All, > > Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival we > noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. Does > anyone have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them in the > NJ area? > > They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do > business with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support local > businesses but also want a quality job. Any suggestions appreciated. > > Thanks and have a great weekend, > > Allen Miles > 30 Mk II, Septima > Bayville, NJ > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: How to prevent hull scratches
Coincidentally, just got an email from Sailrite that has soft fabrics on sale, I bought some of the Protecte it, I think it is light enough to be sewn with a household sewing machine https://www.sailrite.com/Protect-It-Gray-63-Fabric?_kx=ZlET3ycXRF92NAa18jkAskPbRYDNL-lXFQ6SiVuYd8E%3D.USpvYj Bill Coleman On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 11:53 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Absolutely yes to cloth coverings on the fenders, and the softer fabric is > better - > > Bill Coleman > > On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 11:24 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I had my boat painted a few years ago with Awlcraft 2000. I find that I >> am getting a large number of light scratches in the hull paint in the area >> where I normally bring my dinghy alongside to board the boat. This is near >> where the launch comes as well, but the location seems to correlate more >> with the dinghy than the launch (which has bumper pads attached). My >> PortaBote dinghy has rubber-like rails and for extra protection, I covered >> them with pool noodle tubes. However, it looks now like the pool noodles >> may be worse than nothing. Does it make any sense to anyone that pool >> noodles could scratch paint? What do others find is the best hull >> protection? I could attach some kind of fender to the side of the dinghy. >> Some people at our club always leave cylindrical fenders hanging on the >> side of their moored boat, presumably to protect against our less capable >> launch drivers, but that could work for the dinghy as well. If fenders, do >> you find that cloth covers on traditional fenders is more gentle? Thanks- >> Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: How to prevent hull scratches
Absolutely yes to cloth coverings on the fenders, and the softer fabric is better - Bill Coleman On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 11:24 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I had my boat painted a few years ago with Awlcraft 2000. I find that I > am getting a large number of light scratches in the hull paint in the area > where I normally bring my dinghy alongside to board the boat. This is near > where the launch comes as well, but the location seems to correlate more > with the dinghy than the launch (which has bumper pads attached). My > PortaBote dinghy has rubber-like rails and for extra protection, I covered > them with pool noodle tubes. However, it looks now like the pool noodles > may be worse than nothing. Does it make any sense to anyone that pool > noodles could scratch paint? What do others find is the best hull > protection? I could attach some kind of fender to the side of the dinghy. > Some people at our club always leave cylindrical fenders hanging on the > side of their moored boat, presumably to protect against our less capable > launch drivers, but that could work for the dinghy as well. If fenders, do > you find that cloth covers on traditional fenders is more gentle? Thanks- > Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Kite jibing--end for end or dip pole?
Is it a VF Shaw Chutescoop? Bill Coleman On Sun, Nov 12, 2023, 18:51 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Always an interesting topic. True, conventional wisdom says end for end > (EFE) up to 35 feet. Also agree EFE is faster. Don't disagree that dip > pole (DP) gybing is safer. We do end for end gybes on Touche'. Our pole > is 3.5 inch aluminum. > > Regardless of EFE or DP gybing, I think the most important concept of > gybing is the philosophy or mentality of the crew. Whereas many crew tend > to think a gybe is the chute coming across the boat, I prefer to visualize > the boat turning under the chute. That is, the chute, and its aspect to > the wind doesn't really change. The chute is moving down the course and > the boat turns side to side under it. To me, it's a subtle but significant > way to visualize gybing. The helmsperson really needs that visualization > when gybing. > > On a side note, I spent 2 hours this morning patching holes in an > asymmetrical chute, its snuffing sock and storage bag. It's a chute I got > from a dock buddy for doing some work on his boat. It should fit Touche'. > The chute was stored on top of his batteries. The holes were from battery > acid. > > Next is fitting the snuffing sock with a new metal hoop. The old one is > broken. It collapsed on the chute and grabbed it so it wouldn't go up or > down. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Sun, Nov 12, 2023 at 4:03 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hey listers, >> >> My 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb was originally set-up for dip-pole jibes using an >> aluminum pole and used the bayonet style fittings. >> >> After it disappeared from my storage location, I decided to go with a >> carbon fiber pole from Forte and fit it for end-for-end jibes since it was >> now pretty light (~11 lbs). We used it that way but recently we decided to >> go with the dip-pole jibes with this pole. The consensus was that for this >> length boat, the dip pole was the way to go. >> >> However, I think this may be a carry over in thinking from the days when >> all poles were aluminum--at some pole length, such a pole length makes the >> pole too heavy to manhandle on the fore deck.My boat is sort of on the >> border at 36 feet (actually 35.5). >> >> Some local racers suggest using the end for end in light air and the dip >> pole when the wind is up. Of course then my fore deck crew has to remember >> how to do the dance with both methods! >> >> So what is the opinion of the listers--especially those who race AND use >> a kite? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Charlie Nelson >> Water Phantom >> >> >> >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: winter storage
As Matt mentioned, after a couple boats blew over at our club, they came out with an edict that any boats with masts up will have to be on a cradle. That is not to say that a boat can't blow over in a cradle, there are tons of poorly designed cradles, or poorly maintained cradles around. I have made several over the years, and just this fall got roped into revamping a Catalina 36 cradle. He gave me the original drawings for the cradle, I couldn't believe it was an original design by Catalina - the whole thing, even the longitudinal stringers were only 4" channel, which, after being picked up by the ends, which is how they move cradles here, it sagged down about 6". So it got two new 8" I beams longitudinally and two crosswise under the keel. I would have made it more than 8 feet wide, but the dockmaster told me it couldn't be more than that. The point here, I guess is to get a good cradle. There are a few down at our club that are an amazing design. They are made by Viking Trailers, in Butler, PA, Unfortunately , they don't have any pictures on their site of them, if anyone is interested I can send a picture. There are four uprights per side, all adjustable in, out, and up, and also have fold down flaps to stabilize it up to 12' wide. Really well thought out. Bill Coleman Erie PA Entrada On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 10:19 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Re mast up. A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in > a winter storm. He now has no mast. > > > > With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat > from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in > three areas. The boat was on a cradle. > > > > Food for thought > > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS > > > > *From:* Bob Mann via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Bob Mann > *Subject:* Stus-List winter storage > > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic > > > Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those > who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or > do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? > > > > Bob Mann > > Mystic > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Water in the oil
Is your anti freeze low? Bill Colelman On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:28 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > There was enough water to turn the oil to chocolate milk. Could be > condensation, there was a couple of nasty storms that came through here > this summer. I'm in San Carlos MX. in the desert. Didn't have this problem > last year. I'm kinda thinking it might be the lube oil cooler. > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > > On Thu, Oct 26, 2023, 11:32 Jeff Nelson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> How much water? A little could be condensation... >> >> Cheers, >>Jeff Nelson >>Muir Caileag >>C&C 30 - 549 >>Armdale Y.C. >> >> On 2023-10-26 14:59, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List wrote: >> > I have a Yanmar 4JHE in my boat. After 4 months sitting on the hard, I >> > have water in the oil.Does anyone know where the most likely place for >> > leaking is? >> > When I put her away last spring, I had flushed the engine and let the >> > hoses drain. >> > I'm at a loss here. >> > >> > Douglas Mountjoy >> > 1988 LF 39 >> > Mexico at large >> > 1984 Sabre 34 >> > Port Orchard, WA >> > >> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site >> and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > Thanks for your help. >> > Stu >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Wet Vac
A few wraps of duct tape works pretty well. Also, if you poke around the box stores, there are usually an assortment of fittings you can get for the ends of your hoses and there are tapered nozzles which could be cut to fit pretty well. I use a short section of silicone hose to connect the pump to the main line of the boat. Like me, it has no memory, and comes off easily with no indentation. Bill Coleman Erie PA, Entrada Bill Coleman On Sat, Oct 21, 2023, 21:10 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Bill- I have a portable DeWalt vac/blower which I love for these jobs. > It runs corded or cordless/battery. I have thought of doing the same thing > to clear the water lines, but wasn’t sure how to join the two. How did you > make a decent seal between the small diameter water line from the pump > (pex?) and the large diameter ribbed hose of the vacuum? Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Oct 20, 2023, at 11:39 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I also love my little Crapsman Vac, I think maybe only a 2.5 Gal, but > works great for many things - Vacuuming Mast water, sucking the bilge dry, > and as you mention, winterizing. > I Tried a new twist which I think works better, instead of blowing the > water out, I disconnect the water line out of the domestic water pump which > is at the lowest point, and tape it onto the hose - then starting at the > ends, opening and closing faucets, valves until I have pulled all the water > out of the lines - I think this works better than blowing. On my 39, I > hung it up under the chart table next to the hull, never knew it was there. > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > On Fri, Oct 20, 2023 at 9:36 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Wet vacs are great. Especially on a boat. I use a Rigid Brand 18v >> cordless one for the boat. Small and easily fits in a cockpit locker on our >> 30. Especially helpful this year when I was rewiring and the bilge pump >> wasn't connected. It's ability to also blow air, works great when >> winterizing the water system. >> >> Roy >> Minion, 30 mk 1 >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Wet Vac
I also love my little Crapsman Vac, I think maybe only a 2.5 Gal, but works great for many things - Vacuuming Mast water, sucking the bilge dry, and as you mention, winterizing. I Tried a new twist which I think works better, instead of blowing the water out, I disconnect the water line out of the domestic water pump which is at the lowest point, and tape it onto the hose - then starting at the ends, opening and closing faucets, valves until I have pulled all the water out of the lines - I think this works better than blowing. On my 39, I hung it up under the chart table next to the hull, never knew it was there. Bill Coleman Erie PA On Fri, Oct 20, 2023 at 9:36 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Wet vacs are great. Especially on a boat. I use a Rigid Brand 18v > cordless one for the boat. Small and easily fits in a cockpit locker on our > 30. Especially helpful this year when I was rewiring and the bilge pump > wasn't connected. It's ability to also blow air, works great when > winterizing the water system. > > Roy > Minion, 30 mk 1 > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system
I believe this, My Microwave went this summer with a big bang. I can't remember if it was at the dock or on the Inverter, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if shitty AC could have degraded it. It was a pretty nice one too. My next Inverter/Charger will be true Sine Wave. Bill Coleman On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 1:35 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > If you are looking at inverters, keep in mind that wattage isn’t all there > is to an inverter. Consider what you are plugging in. Coffee makers and > toasters are not particular about the quality of the output. Computers and > other devices are. The need a true sine wave, versus a modified sine > wave. An Inverter with true sine wave are more expensive, but will save > your other electronics in the long term. > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Former C&C 32 owner > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > -- > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Sail Paint
Awhile ago there was discussion about solar leech protection, and sail graphics and the inflatable boat paint came up. I just sawr this demonstration on Hamilton Marine website for their lobster buoy paint, and the video on it pretty much sold me. Now I want to remove the sticky stuff on my leech and try some of this! https://hamiltonmarine.com/hmbuoypaint/ Bill Coleman Erie PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Any thoughts (experience) on trailering?
A couple things come to mind from my Soling - The surge brakes didn't work as well as they should, so I had to remember to brake early (if possible!) Also, my biggest problem trailering in general is remembering that I am, and to steer clear and wide, as I am kind of flakey and forget things quickly - like a trailer behind me., Bill Coleman On Wed, Sep 13, 2023 at 10:17 AM Karl Kuzis via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Looking at Richard's photos from moving his 34cb to the shop got me > thinking. > > Firefly is a C&C 29 Mk1 with extended keel which is lake locked 3 hrs > away. We have been considering moving her closer to home, back to the > Columbia River. As previously mentioned she is due for hull paint (or wrap) > as well as bottom inspection, paint etc. > > So the choices become hire a boat mover, or obtain a suitable trailer > (rental or buy). I have plenty of trailer-tow experience just not with a > 29ft fixed keel sailboat. > > The question to the group is: Any insights, experience or thoughts on 29 > trailering? > > > All comments, stories and discussion welcome! > > > Karl and Doris Kuzis > Firefly, C&C 29 Mk1 > karl.ku...@gmail.com > Cell (360) 606-2099 > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Yep. A pair of Barient 32 ST, look like SS. $2,500. I think that is a sweet deal. I paid 2K over 10 years ago for a pair of those, and was thrilled to get them. Currently spoiled to death with Harken Electric 66 3 speed Primaries Bill Coleman Entrada Erie PA On Tue, Sep 12, 2023 at 6:11 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Always have a look for used winches on eBay. If they were used Lewmars, > these are mostly indestructible so used is fine. That is how I got my ST > Lewmar 44s at $500 each. Compared to ~ $2000 each new. > > Charlie Nelson > Water phantom > > > Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS > <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> > > On Tuesday, September 12, 2023, 1:36 PM, Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Nathan, > Thanks for this data point! I wish it were possible to test run some > winches before buying -- hah! ST50 seems large, but better a little large > than two small. > Jeff > -- > *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, September 12, 2023 1:00 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Nathan Post > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34 > > Hi Jeff, > > I replaced my primaries on my 34 with Anderson ST 50 winches in 2000. They > seem sized correctly to me - I certainly wouldn't go smaller. They work > fine for hauling in my 135 Genoa fully loaded up but it is about all a > typical crew can handle by themselves. If I was to do it again, I would pay > the extra for Lewmar Ocean winches of equivalent size or maybe even one > size up instead. > > Nathan > > ~~~ > Nathan Post > S/V Wisper > 1981 C&C 34 > Lynn, MA (currently in Rockport ME) > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: No Traffic
When I had my 39 hauled out to the shop for a refit, we hit a traffic signal on the way out. I saw them working on it a few days later. Then at the busiest intersection, they had to stop kind of fast, the bilge water rushed forward and started pumping out onto a convertible next to it! Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 4:55 PM David Risch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Your lucky you fit under the wires. At 7’6” draft I can go very few > places via road. > > > > *From:* Richard Bush via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, September 7, 2023 4:14 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Richard Bush < > bushma...@aol.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: No Traffic > > > > OK I have some information; we hauled the boat for repairs to the hull > from damages received in March; we had to take the boat through urban; it > was quite an experience; we had a motorcade of four vehicles; a lead truck, > the boat and two chase vehicles; I've attached a photo, if it comes > through; an unusual experience for us! > > > > Richard > > 1985 C&C 37 CB; > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hull painting
Well, this discussion has taken up an inordinate amount of my time - Not that I am complaining, I am learning much more than I already knew about wraps. After watching several youtube videos, (How to repair) I now think a lot of the cars I thought were painted are wrapped. There are some little bits on my boat that have little vinyl repairs that are very hard to find. Bill Coleman On Wed, Aug 23, 2023 at 1:04 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Karl, that's exactly my concern...I would like to have seen photos of > that! Thanks > > Richard > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > On Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 12:51:28 PM EDT, Karl Erickson via > CnC-List wrote: > > > They guy who has a wrap here did hit the dock last year and put a pretty > large rip in it. Not repairable. He had that side replaced this spring. > > Karl Erickson > SeaBatical > C&C 34 > Lake Michigan > > On Aug 23, 2023, at 11:17 AM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > The reviews I have seen on YouTube for cruising boats seem positive. > Lifespan 10+ years, straight forward patch and repair and peel off removal. > > Being a traditionalist, I had been hesitant to consider wraps but am > digging deeper as the pros seem to outweigh the cons, esp here in N. Idaho > where painters and working yards are sparce but there are vehicle wrappers > who have some boat wrapping experience. (Fred don't judge us, it's a BIG > lake). > > Still weighing options as we are a couple of years (unless an option > becomes obvious) > > Karl Kuzis > Firefly > C&C 29 Mk1 > karl.ku...@gmail.com > Cell (360) 606-2099 > > On Wed, Aug 23, 2023, 8:48 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > As a follow up to Bill's questions about the wrapswhat is their life > expectancy? What happens when you get into a dispute with a dock piling and > the piling wins(don't ask how I know)...thanks! > > Richard > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > On Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 11:39:47 AM EDT, Bill Coleman via > CnC-List wrote: > > > Those Wraps are intriguing, does anyone know what is involved in removing > them? > > Bill Coleman > Entrada, Erie PA > > On Tue, Aug 22, 2023 at 10:43 PM Karl Erickson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > A dock neighbor had just 1973 C$C 33 wrapped last year. Half the cost and > it looks awesome. His name and the C&C stripe was part of it. > > Karl Erickson > > On Aug 22, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Another random idea > > Could you consider a vinyl wrap? > > Firefly has the Red paint job from 1977ish and is umm showing her age. > So while looking at painting we also started looking at options. > The vinyl wrap is about half the paint cost and decent life span and > repairable. > > For us, either is a couple of years off but does the group have any input > or experience? > > Karl & Doris Kuzis > C&C 29 Mk 1 - Firefly > > George Cone > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hull painting
Those Wraps are intriguing, does anyone know what is involved in removing them? Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Tue, Aug 22, 2023 at 10:43 PM Karl Erickson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > A dock neighbor had just 1973 C$C 33 wrapped last year. Half the cost and > it looks awesome. His name and the C&C stripe was part of it. > > Karl Erickson > > On Aug 22, 2023, at 4:02 PM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Another random idea > > Could you consider a vinyl wrap? > > Firefly has the Red paint job from 1977ish and is umm showing her age. > So while looking at painting we also started looking at options. > The vinyl wrap is about half the paint cost and decent life span and > repairable. > > For us, either is a couple of years off but does the group have any input > or experience? > > Karl & Doris Kuzis > C&C 29 Mk 1 - Firefly > > George Cone > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hull painting
What kind of paint? Bill Coleman Erie PA On Tue, Aug 22, 2023 at 1:34 PM George Cone via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > One detail, I have / had a 1981 c &c 40 white, I had a quart of special > paint made to do some patching. Unfortunately the boat was hit by lightning > before the 4th of July so I have no further need for the paint, $20.00 > and it is yours! > > > > The boat was totaled due to hull penetrations > > > > Thanks, > > > > George Cone > > > <https://www.motiondesignslimited.com/c-and-c-colour-chart> > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: {Stus-List} Airhead
Hello Pete, I don't have one, I just know a couple people who do. (Above, - - but I don't see one in my future. ) The one who put it in his trawler sold it to a friend, and his (new) wife made him go back to the holding tank Bill Coleman On Thu, Aug 17, 2023 at 8:58 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Bill Coleman wrote: > > Got more info in on the composting heads. (just in case anyone is > interested.) Interesting, but I don't see one in my future. Just > hypothesizing, but I see only the most environmentally rabid women (and > maybe men) accepting this concept. > > << http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewCompostingHeadInstall.htm > > I also found these tips. They use a spray bottle of water to hit the > toilet after using it. If you use the coffee filter that should eliminate > the skid marks. > > Tips for Using: > > Be prepared for land-lubbers to be somewhat frightened by the concept. > Guests' responses range from curiosity to repulsion. Make sure they > understand how to check the liquid tank level so they don't overflow it. > Try using a small spray bottle with water for "flushing." This uses almost > no water, but keeps the bowl clean. We don't use the coffee filters for the > solids, I don't know why anyone would. It stays very clean without them, > but you might find you have to retrain some of your muscles to allow timing > for liquids and solids so you can wait to open the solid door...you get the > gist. In cold temperatures you have to use the enzymes. They are literally > called "Drain Care" and we've found that they also work well for unclogging > galley sinks. One small container will last you years. Sometimes we had to > divert heat from our heater into the head compartment to help remove some > of the moisture in the air and to help the composting process. This was > only important after 2 or 3 days of constant rain and temperatures below > 65F where the inside humidity would hover around 80% to 99% all day. There > can be smells from the toilet directly after use, after being stirred or if > you are starting a new compost "session" and the bacteria isn't well > founded. It's not as bad as the smell from vent hoses from a traditional > holding tank, but you should be aware there are normal times when it isn't > odor free.>> > > Bill Coleman C&C 39 > > Hello Bill, > > I found these useful tips on the Airhead compositing toilet as wife and I > as pursue replacing the toilet in our ‘85 37 and getting rid of the tank > (yay). Did you vent yours and if so, how? I’m considering routing a vent > forward to the anchor locker, but then, we have the vent from the anchor > locker to the v-berth, hmm. > > Anyway, just curious how the Airhead has worked out for you over time and > if you have any other advice on the product. > > > Peter McMinn > > C&C 37 SV Sirius > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Centerboard cable diagnostics or replacement
Are you sure it is coming from the CB and not the stern? We get some pretty hard THUNKING sometimes when there is a following wind, even in the slip if the little wave hits just right under the stern. Bill Coleman Erie PA On Mon, Aug 14, 2023 at 11:14 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Joe, thanks; this is a new development, we haven't had this "thump" noise > before... we did run a line but weren't able to get a result we were sure > of: I wasn't able to do a dive on the keel, but plan to do that as soon as > I can; thanks! > > Richard > 1085 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, MIlr 584; > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 10:48:22 AM EDT, Della Barba, Joe via > CnC-List wrote: > > > Do you suspect the centerboard is actually down? > > Even in murky water, it seems like a 20 second dive would give you the > answer, unless the murk is caused by something nasty you don’t want to swim > in. You could always run a line from one side of the boat to the other and > walk aft and see if you can tell if the board is hanging down. > > Assuming it goes up and down as usual, the thunk would be side to side > movement that the cable cannot change. Some boats just do this, I have > heard of people swimming down and stuffing a sponge or two in the slot to > get a quite night’s sleep. > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > *From:* Richard Bush via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, August 14, 2023 4:09 AM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* Richard Bush > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Centerboard cable diagnostics or > replacement > > > > Hi all; I have a 1985 C&C 37 with a centerboard; with the boat tied at the > dock (we are at a fixed dock on a river) we notice a thunk sound that seems > to be centerboard moving side-to-side when there was wave action; however, > the centerboard cable remains tight and in its usual position (the > centerboard is normally on the "up" position, with the cable connected to > a rope line which is on a cabin top winch. The line was replaced with new > line last winter and is in good condition). We were not able to see the > bottom of the keel because the river water is too murky. > > > > Does anyone have any suggestions or information about replacing the > centerboard cable; can this be done in the water with a diver? Any other > ideas welcome, thank you. > > > > > > Richard > > 1985 C&C 37, CB; Ohio River, Mile 584. > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Constrictor Textile Rope Clutch
Does anyone have any experience with these clutches? https://www.velasailingsupply.com/ronstan-constrictor-textile-rope-clutch-single-14mm-rope/ Thanks, Bill Coleman Erie PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!
I still have nightmares of getting stuck back under the cockpit. I once got stuck upside down head first, under the cutting board, under a panel below that where I was working on the isotherm refrigeration unit. I was calling for help, but no one was around. After about an hour and half, I finally extricated myself. Bill Coleman Former C&C 39 On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am running the propane hose for my new stove down the starboard side of > the boat, which is requiring me to crawl back to the stern under/beside the > aft cockpit. My memory of working back there was I just crawled in and back > out. Turns out to not be that easy, I had to take the engine control cables > and bilge pump hoses off their fittings and I still can just barely sort of > do it. When I was a teenager I fit just fine. Did the boat shrink? Can I > expand it? Did I “opposite of shrink”? > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.
Yes! This is the problem I had a couple years ago at the same club, I got a newer Marinco adapter that takes two 125V Male and combines them into 250V Female ( https://marinco.com/en/p/RY504-2-30/Reverse-Y-Adapter-2-30A-125V-Males-to) , but this newer adapter has a smart sensor at the wye that can apparently sense that they are on the same Phase - so those two plugs were apparently on the same side of one phase, and it doesn't allow anything juice through. And thank you Ken H, for reexplaining that phase thing to me. I guess I did know once, but I forgot about that opposite phase. thing. I thought there was some reason it wouldn't work. So I know I could make up a 250V plug that would have neutral where it usually is, and ground on the outside ring, and 125 V of the same phase on both hot sides, I just don't know what would happen to my Air Conditioner if I flipped that breaker on, and I don't want to try - I *might* have 120V power throughout the boat, but I am guessing I wouldn't want to try to run anything that runs on 250V When I use the 125V to 250V adapter, ( https://marinco.com/en/p/S15-504/Straight-Adapter-15A-125V-Male-To-50A) , I believe it only energises one side of the system, as the outlets on the port side do not work - but it is enough to get the battery charger to run, and a fan. As for the 125V to 250V that mairnco sells for 'shoreside batterycharging", I guess I could get a regular 30 Amp plug and just wire one side to a 250V Female like the 'shoreside", but with an approved male 30 amp plug, not a household plug. I am just not going to magically get air conditioning out of a couple same phase 120 volt pedestals. Thanks again everyone, Bill Coleman On Sat, Jul 22, 2023 at 8:09 AM Doug via CnC-List wrote: > You can get 240v out of 120v. But you need 2 separate circuits. Like in > your house. At the club we have the 50 Amp boats plugging into 2 separate > pedestals on 2 separate main breakers. Not sure I explained that in the > best manner. Lol. > > > > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Rebecca Leah > C & C Landfall 39 > Port Orchard Yacht Club > > > > Original message > From: Peter Fell via CnC-List > Date: 7/21/23 20:40 (GMT-05:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: Peter Fell > Subject: Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters. > > There is no such thing. You cannot convert 120V to 240V (or 115V to 230V > it is not 125 / 250) in a pigtail format. To get 240V out of 120V you > would have to use a step-up or isolation transformer. $500 to $1200+ for a > marine use model (and I expect a lot of them need much more than 30A). What > I described to you is exactly what you asked for, except of course the > '250' volt thing, which as I said does not exist. > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.
Thanks Peter, but it was the 30 amp 125 volt male to a 125/250 female that I was looking for. I have a 125 /250 to a 15 amp for battery charging Bill Coleman On Fri, Jul 21, 2023, 17:59 Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote: > Unless you're cruising in Europe or UK (or a few other countries) you're > not bringing 120V together to 240V. NA electrical grid is 120V. > > And Marinco does make the 30amp male to 15amp female connector. They are > also available from other companies as well for a lot less $. Search Amazon > shore power pigtail ... make sure they are UL listed and make sure the 30 > amp connection is a L5-30P. Also it's 15 amp max. The 20 amp connection > (5-20P) has the neutral rotated 90 degrees. > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Shore Power Adapters.
I think I may have given away my 30 amp adapters with my last boat, but a 125V 30 amp male to a 20 amp female household plug would have partially solved my problem last weekend at a neighboring Club. Not ideal, I know, nobody likes household cords going to boats. A 125V 30 amp Male to 125/250V Female Pigtail would have been ideal , but maybe not - I see Marinco does not sell such a plug, which leads me to believe that maybe there is a reason they don't. Maybe it would be a bad idea to bring two legs of the same 125 Volts into a 250 volt system. Seems like like inbreeding. I know enough about electricity to get me into trouble, but not sure about this one, and wonder if there are any actual electricians out there..I could buy field plugs and make my own, but I don't want to fry my system or burn my boat down. I do have a 125/250 female to 125 household male, which enables me to charge batteries in the winter. Thanks, Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Insurance
Just got this in a newsletter from the local broker, it does a little more Plain 'Splainin on the subject of boat insurance. << At the YBAAU, we had an excellent presentation by Bob Peck of Triton Marine Insurance. If you currently own a boat, you almost certainly noticed a sizable increase in your premium this year. That said, marine insurance is not as expensive as most people expect it to be, but the rub is obtaining coverage in the first place. The whole insurance industry took an $118,000,000,000 loss due to Hurricane Ian, and this catastrophic loss had a wide ranging impact across the industry. Four large companies failed, and there are fewer markets for your agent to place your coverage with. Four main areas the underwriters look for when a customer is looking for insurance are location of use, age of vessel, owner experience, and the “10-foot rule.” - Florida has become a very difficult place to obtain coverage, and so has the Caribbean. If you can get coverage at all you need a storm plan, along with other stipulations. - The age of the vessel is also a key criterion, the older the boat the more difficult it is to obtain insurance. - Owner experience was always an issue, but until recently it was rarely an obstacle to coverage; it was more a pricing factor. Now brokers need to work with their agents to develop a plan to cover new owners who have little to no prior boating experience. A package containing training is usually required. - Finally the “10-foot rule” means the companies normally do not want an owner to move to a larger boat that is more than 10 feet larger that the one they currently own. A customer who currently has a 17-foot center console runabout is unlikely to get coverage for a 40-foot boat for example. Often they are requiring that a captain be aboard for a specified period of time while the owners gain the requisite skill and experience. - Other problem insurance risks are liveaboards and houseboats. The larger and more expensive the boat, the more these rules come into play. - Here at RCR we have been fortunate, through long-established relationships with marine insurance specialists, to get our customers covered but it has not always been quick and easy. Our suggestion is that if you presently have coverage, don’t think of moving to another carrier to save a few bucks, be satisfied that you have a policy. << Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bilge blower & pumps
No, but I am about to replace my blower, B/C it is too noisy - People can hear it from the dock. In this case, I found an axial fan, like a large computer muffin fan, and I am going to put it in the place of the existing one somehow, with some hose adapters from Supplyhouse.com. Then I am just going to leave it on all the time, as it uses very minimal juice. I had purchased a couple Marnico exhaust fans, but my only opinions turned out to be where the jib sheets will snag them. A quick look at the SeaFlo, they look pretty cheap. Also, the one on Amazon says quiet - but at 130 decibels, that doesn't sound too quiet. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Jul 20, 2023 at 2:23 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have a question for the group. Does anyone have experience with the > Seaflo brand of bilge blowers or pumps? I need to replace a blower and add > both. To my boats. > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 C&C LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Water in mast step
My mast drains out a half inch tube from the mast. In the winter I have a vinyl hose that goes out through a transducer hole and keeps the bilge dry. I have a felt wick inside that tube to pull it uphill where need be. In the summer it drains into a plastic pan, and I try to get down there after heavy rain and drain the pan to keep the bilge dry. Works great! Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Sun, Jul 2, 2023, 21:33 Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote: > Thanks all… some great ideas! > Dean > > On Jul 2, 2023, at 9:58 PM, John Read via CnC-List > wrote: > > On my 34 while the mast was out I drilled 2 small holes in the aft “wall” > and forced in 2 small plastic tubes so the water dripped into the bilge. > Also drilled a small hole in the bottom aft of the mast so the water could > easily get into the box. I clean each tube with grass trimmer line as part > of annual maintenance. Works well. > > John Read > Legacy III > 1982 C&C 34 > Noank, CT > > *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Therapy’s in Buffalo
Glad everything worked out, I knew you would love it. There is just something magical about boating through towns and peoples back yards. Now you will have dreams about sailing down city streets.. Also, you are at a great marina, The Finkles are one of the few family owned marinas anymore, and they used to be C&C Dealers! Bill Coleman Erie PA Entrada On Sat, Jun 10, 2023 at 9:29 PM Thomas Perison via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Greetings all - > > I completed the 720nm trip at 1230 today, pulling into my slip at RCR > Marina in Buffalo. > > Many thanks to everyone for the encouragement. It also was extra cool > meeting Todd at Lock 17! I had 5 different crewmates (ballast?!) during > the 23 day passage. > > It was a bucket list trip. ⛵️ > > Tom Perison > Therapy > 29 Mk 2 > RCR Marina > Buffalo, NY > > > Sent from my iPhone > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
Let's just be thankful we're not flying airplanes! Bill Coleman On Sun, Jun 11, 2023, 09:42 Korbey Hunt via CnC-List wrote: > I have a 1980 34 C&C located in Ketchikan, AK. I only use it in the > summer. It has a new Yanmar 30 hp engine with 300 hrs. Last year when > returning from a long cruise at good speed and running well for many hours > the engine suddenly slowed and died. We were in a channel and began > drifting towards the beach. After a few minutes I restarted the motor and > it ran fine. I suspect a fuel problem but never found the cause. I > changed the engine filter but it did not look dirty. > > Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> > -- > *From:* Martin DeYoung via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, June 10, 2023 10:24:48 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Martin DeYoung > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness > > Transitory engine issues can create drama quickly. Back in 1992 we had > just taken possession of a 1981 C&C 36 and departed Seattle's Lake Union > heading out to our saltwater moorage at Shilshole Bay Marina. This trip > takes us west through the Lake Washington Ship Canal, under the Fremont and > Ballard Bridges (needed to open them), and through the Ballard locks. The > Ship Canal is narrow enough that it is rare to sail through it. It was also > calm that day. The engine ran just fine through the transit to and into > the locks (approx. first hour of ownership). It is common to shut down the > engine while locking through as it can take enough time to expose a few > people to the exhaust fumes. > > So, the lock gates open, the C&C 36's Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel fires up > and *aided *by the outgoing current we departed the lock. Now it worth > noting there is an opening single leafed Bascule train bridge with a > clearance of +-48' at that moment's tide height a short distance west of > the lock. Our 36's air draft was a little over 50'. > Given how the gods watching over errant sailors enjoy a good laugh from > time to time the engine chooses that moment to shut down. It shut down in > that way that indicates a restart is unlikely. The train bridge is also > down. The current coming out of the locks is relentlessly pushing us > towards the closed bridge. I am suddenly very concerned for the top few > feet of the mast. > > I immediately sounded the signal asking for an opening. I asked the boat's > new co-owner to make ready to anchor. I hit the starter to see if the > engine would restart. It sputtered and died again. I sounded for an > opening again. Nothing promising was happening up on the bow in way of an > anchor being deployed. I attempted another restart this time with the > reduction gear in reverse to make use of any rotation of the prop. I get > maybe 15 to 20 seconds of run time which slowed our progress slightly. The > bridge operator made the horn signal indicating he was able to open the > bridge, no trains were in route. I headed for the side of the bridge that > opens first and hit the starter again hoping for another few seconds of > reverse. > > Fortunately, the bridge opened just enough and our path close to the > opening end of the bridge equaled just enough clearance the mast remained > intact, and we avoided an embarrassing episode where we would have needed > to "strike the burgee", obscure the boat's name, and wear bags over our > heads to avoid being identified. > > The cause of all this entertainment was debris in the fuel tank blocking > the fuel pick-up. We hired a fuel tank cleaner/polisher who cut a > inspection port removed the debris, cleaned the tank, polished the fuel and > voila, no more fuel pick up issues. > > Fast forward to 1999 and I am motoring our recently acquired C&C 43 along > the same route. When the truck from Chicago arrived, we had her unloaded > at a Lake Union boat yard. After 3 months of repair and upgrade work the > boat was ready to leave but the mast was still in the paint shed so we > motored off without a mast. Didn't need to open any bridges and was > relaxed about restarting in the locks and heading west. (The anchoring gear > was ready to go this time.) When we got to our Shilshole Bay Marina slip I > contacted the fuel cleaning guy and had the tank thoroughly cleaned and the > fuel polished to be ready for my next trip with the mast up and its 70' air > draft. > > Martin DeYoung > Calypso > 1971 C&C 43 > Port Ludlow/Seattle > > Greta > 1956 Matthews 42 > Port Ludlow > -- > *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, June 10, 2023 12:47 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* da
Stus-List Re: ABYC Propane standards
I use a First Alert GC01 Plug it in at home during the off season, move it down to the boat in the summer. CO2, Methane, Propane. When away from the dock it runs on 9V Battery Bill Coleman Erie PA On Wed, May 31, 2023 at 1:23 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I'm swapping out my old CNG 2 burner stove for a propane unit. My question > is do I need a fume detector for the new propane system? I know I need a > shutoff valve. > > Thanks in advance > Doug > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Therapy - Annapolis to NYC
You are lucky you are going to Buffalo, a friend of mine is stuck for 3 weeks at Brewertons, just out of Onida (a nice layover) as a bridge is out going down the Oswego leg to Ontario. Bill Coleman Erie PA On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 4:15 PM Thomas Perison via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Super! > Here till am Tue. Liberty landing Marina - D 29 👍 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On May 28, 2023, at 3:22 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > About 16 hours behind you, Tom. We’re just at the entrance to Delaware > Bay. > > Andy > > > > Andrew Burton > > 26 Beacon Hill > > Newport, RI > > USA02840 > > > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > > +401 965-5260 > > > >> On May 28, 2023, at 14:41, Thomas Perison via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> > >> All - > >> > >> Thank you again - & special 👍to Josh in the Solomons -for all your > encouragement to sail Therapy vs truck her. > >> Arrived in NYC harbor at 1300hrs today after a 49hr non-stop passage > from Annapolis w 2 crew. > >> A bit tired! Hudson R and the Erie Canal next. > >> > >> Fair Winds - > >> Tom > >> Therapy > >> 29 Mk 2 > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site > and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >> Thanks for your help. > >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > Thanks for your help. > > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bottom paint best by date
I always save from one year to the next. Some store better than others, but this Odyssey Triton holds up well, and does not settle out very fast. Also, BTW, this is the best antifouling I have ever used. A fact not lost on Pettit, as they are pretty proud of it.($400 a gallon!) Defender put it on sale a couple months ago for I think 369, then Hamilton blew them out of the water at 269 Gallon. Got 3 Gallons. (Thanks Don Kern!) I blow some argon into the can and quickly put the lid on, then store them upside down to make sure it is sealed. I realise not everyone has Argon, but CO2 would also help if available. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Wed, May 17, 2023 at 10:42 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am thinking of getting 2 gallons of bottom paint currently on sale at > Defender/West Marine (Oydessy HD) that I may not need for 6 months to a > year. > > Does this stuff have a shelf life or use by date? I don't want to open it > a year from now and find it has solidified into a solid mass or otherwise. > > FWIW, in the NC sound/Neuse River brackish water environment this paint is > into its 3rd year and still doing its job--no other paint I have tried > (Pettit Vivid/etc. including VR(?) 21) has approached this level of > longevity. > > Charlie Nelson > 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb > Water Phantom > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Question and Report
Here are a few I can think of http://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/ https://www.virginiatank.com/ <http://www.virginiatank.com/> https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/159/marine-holding-tanks Bill On Mon, May 8, 2023 at 11:31 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers: > > > > Hope all is well. > > > > First, I have a question. A friend of mine who owns a C&C > 41 (probably ‘80s vintage) discovered that his aluminum diesel tank is > leaking. He plans to pull it tomorrow to confirm. I talked briefly with > Bill Coleman on this list, and he suggested replacing the aluminum tank > with a plastic tank. Does anyone know a source for a plastic replacement > diesel tank that will fit this boat? (I assume it’s about 20 gallons.) > Please advise. Thanks. > > > > Second, I thought I’d report on a recent discovery you may > find interesting. As most of you know, my boat is a C&C 42 Custom, > “Custom” meaning that it was not a production run boat and was built in the > Bruckmann shop. Six of these “stick boats” were built in the mid ‘70s. > Every year about this time of year, I get annoyed by a stubborn crack that > appears near the top of the forward edge of the keel, near the top where it > meets the hull. As most of you understand, this is the front of the > so-called C&C smile. On my boat, the C&C smile crack runs along the bottom > of the hull where the keel is mated, more or less parallel to the bottom of > the hull (the “main smile”). However, I have a second C&C smile that > starts at the forward edge of the keel about four of five inches below the > forward edge of the main smile, then tapers up toward the bottom of the > hull, eventually meeting the main smile about 2/3 of the way back to the > aft edge of the keel. I never understood why I get this “second smile.” > > > > A few weeks ago some water was seeping out of the stubborn crack at the > front edge of the main smile, and I asked my guru to find out what the heck > is going on. After some grinding and drilling, he informed me that my keel > was probably not made to fit my boat. Instead, the keel from another boat > was adapted to fit my boat by creating a lead “wedge” piece (sort of like a > big shim) that is widest at the forward edge of the keel and tapers going > aft. This wedge fits between the top of the original keel and the hull, > giving me two mating seams and thus two C&C smiles. Apparently, my boat is > very happy. > > > > Matt > > > > Matt Wolford > > C&C 42 Custom > > Erie, PA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
Second the Hose extension. I bought one for my 39, and never put it on. Sorry Rich. I did leave it with the boat. Every time I thought of doing it, it was in the water, and I would freak out when I thought of crossthreading that hose all the way into that convoluted space, which I couldn't even see. Putting a nipple into threads I cannot see is what nightmares are made of. Below the waterline, anyways. If I *Had* done it, I would have put one of these on the end of the hose. https://www.amazon.com/Lubesite-205-Feeder-Grease-Oz/dp/B000CD96IM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2UH94E2OE9N3T&keywords=lubesite+grease+feeder&qid=1682090312&sprefix=lubesite%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-2 Bill Coleman On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 8:24 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks. I bought a zerk fitting to add to the grease cup. The idea of a > hose extension is a good one. I was thinking some shaft packing material > might help? > > > > > I dropped my rudder for repairs some 10 years ago and to my recollection, > the 34 system does not have a lower bushing or bearing. Rather is just a > close tolerance fiberglass tube. The outside of the tube is braced by > fiberglass struts to the interior of the hull. Top of the tube ends about > a foot or so from underside of cockpit floor to provide space for steering > quadrant and be well above water line. Shaft continues up through cockpit > floor square cast bronze fitting held in place by 4 bolts. Fitting hole > for rudder shaft is also close tolerance so threads for donut ride on hole > edges. This is the real issue as over time the threads enlarge the fitting > hole allowing the rudder post to wobble. Hence the solution to remove the > fitting and insert a new bushing. > > > On a related note, the tube should have a threaded hole for a grease cup. > Ensure that is working so you can insert grease as part of normal > maintenance. I replace the cup with a hydraulic hose with fittings so I > could insert grease from the locker and not have to crawl back there > > > Best of luck > > > John Read > > 1982 C&C 34 > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft
AwlGrip I believe is a polyisocyanate. Awlcraft is a polyurethane. Think diamonds vs. Granite. I also need to do some touch up on AwlGrip, and I intend to just touch it up with Awlgrip and wet-sand and buff. If I can ever figure out which color it is. Bill Coleman On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 11:38 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dennis and David; are Awlcraft and Awlgrip the same or similar products? I > am in the process of having repairs done to my hull; it was painted with > Awlgrip in 2013; any suggestions? Thanks > > Richard > s/v Bushmark4: 1085 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 > > > -Original Message- > From: David Knecht via CnC-List > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Cc: David Knecht > Sent: Wed, Apr 19, 2023 11:19 am > Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft > > I am in the same position, but I can’t blame it on a hurricane (my > stupidity instead). Had the topsides painted in 2021 with Awlcraft 2000 > and it looked great. Last mark of the last race of the season in 2021 I > was single-handing and put the boat on autopilot to take the whisker pole > down at the leeward mark. Took longer than it should have and I was not > paying attention and looked up to see the boat headed directly at the > government nun buoy I was supposed to round. Didn’t get back to the helm > in time and hit it dead on (taking a chunk out of the bow under the roller) > and then scraped along the starboard side, trashing my new paint job. I > installed an autopilot remote control (Madman Marine) last week to > (hopefully) keep that from ever happening again. Dave > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: To sell or not to sell
It should be a wonderful trip, Tom. . You will remember it for the rest of your life. I think the Erie Canal is still free, which is amazing. That costs NYS a ton. I did it down to FLA with a slip neighbor in the fall or 2000 on a big powerboat, loads of fun. I made the mistake of letting the owner know I could cook, and ended up cooking breakfasts the rest of the way down, which actually turned out not to be a curse. We had food MY way, The Stove was right up on the bridge, so I could cook and watch the world go by. Then I did it again in 2018 upbound from Annapolis. That was also a wonderful trip, but it would have been more enjoyable as a passenger, as I spent a lot of time fretting about groundings, which turned out to be not unfounded. My good buddy Dave, who is even more anal than me, took copious notes, and put them on his blog, if you are interested. It is in Wordpress, which is a little convoluted to read, but might hold some interesting info/Data and be helpful.. We didn't sail, I took the spar out before the trip, and had it trucked up, cheap insurance and made the trip a hell of a lot easier. If you do not have a lot of overhang, it may not be too bad. I always hated just the short trip from the lift well to my slip with the spar laying down. I once caught the top of the spar on the sling cables backing out with my 39 in a crosswind, and almost ripped the mast off the boat. https://pilgrimliberty.wordpress.com/2018/05/page/2/ Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 9:49 AM Thomas Perison via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > All - > After much of your collective feedback as well as discussions w The > Admiral, I’ve decided to sail Therapy from Solomons MD to Buffalo. > It should be a great experience- I hope. > My planned window: leave late May; arrive about 2.5 wks later in Buffalo. > A bit over 700 nm; based on initial planning. > Thanks to all for your advice and encouragement ! > Tom > Therapy > 29 Mk2 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 28, 2023, at 8:41 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > Background: My boat “Therapy” (29 mkII) currently is berthed in Solomons > MD. I moved to Buffalo NY this past fall (the “why” is a long story > …planning on trucking her here this spring (have quotes etc). > Debating about selling her in MD vs the ~$4k moving cost. I have put > extensive work ($) in her over the past 5 yrs: new electronics w/NMEA 2000 > / running rigging / interior / exterior cushions / Bimini & dodger / > traveler & main sheet; lifelines, lights; among other things. > I know most of that doesn’t translate to much add’l value….online ads > range from $teens to low $20s. > My main question..thoughts on the least-bad option: sell in MD or bear > the cost to truck her to WNY? > I believe she’s worth about $20k…thinking realistically. > Before y’all think I’m throwing out the anchor - there is a very nice > 35-Mk III for sale locally…! > > Cheers ! > Tom > “Therapy” > 1984 29-Mk II > Solomons MD > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana
I just found out about this SV -seeker a couple weeks ago while visiting a friend in punta Gorda. It was a hot afternoon, so he started showing me YouTube's of it. Then, the whole Sailing Anarchy thread, which goes back years. This is a classic tale about a fellow who doesn't know what he doesn't know, and moreover, refuses to ever learn what people might suggest he doesn't know! Most of the sailing anarchy is made up of what he calls trolls, who just follow it to ridicule him. I can see is pretty hard not to do. He has created this huge steel "sailboat" which is a stretch in itself, complete with steel poles for spars. This thing should never be taken out in open water. It looks about is unseaworthy as some of those huge cruise ships. He gets a lot of donations, and is supposed to be for research. But no self-respecting, college or institution would ever allow their people to go out on this thing on open water. Think, tiger King. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Tue, Apr 18, 2023, 20:05 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Long weekend. Took Touche' from its home slip in Mandeville, LA to > Pensacola to get bottom paint and topsides touchup. > > Friday - Mandeville to Gulfport uneventful > Saturday - afternoon weather looked really nasty so we just moved a couple > hours down the coast to Biloxi. Squall line hit us about 4 pm. Felt like > 40+ knots. Boat heeled about 5 degrees in slip. Glad we weren't crossing > Mobile Bay. Second squall line hit us about 4 am. > Sunday - underway early to marina on ICW at Gulf Shores, AL. 66 nm in 9.5 > hours. > Monday - easy motor up "ditch" (ICW) to Pensacola Yacht Club. Anchored in > Big Lagoon was this boat, S/V Seeker. It's a junk rigged boat. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Le3_Ue7BxFRxDTKPVv85RLvcW6ZC7Ome/view?usp=sharing > > More info can be found here: > https://www.svseeker.com/wp/sv-seeker-2/sailboat/ > > and here: > > https://www.svseeker.com/wp/blog/ (Watch his video about halfway down > the page. What a contrast! A junk rig and a foiling AC40) > > While crossing Pensacola Bay the New York Yacht Club's AC40 America's Cup > boat was practicing. Wow! The acceleration and speed is incredible. They > were gone down the bay in a flash. I took some video but I can't seem to > get it to work in Google Drive. > > Hauled Touche' this morning and drove 4 hours home. > > Now the question. Why do I take Touche' 26 hours to get it painted? > Answer - IMHO, the painter is way better than any in my area. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale
Well, I did refuse delivery on the black Triton, good suggestion - I hope it all washes out. I would expect I would have to reimburse Defender for the free shipping, which is ok. However, in the interim, I get this Sale email from Hamilton Marine today, (Thanks Don Kern) they blew Defender and everyone else's price for the Pettit Triton out of the water. Of course the Blue is back-ordered, but I am a patient man. The sale ends tonite, BTW. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 8:20 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Don't accept delivery of the paint. It will be returned to them without > you having to pay. Leave a note for the delivery people, in case you're not > there when they come. > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > > > On Sat, Apr 1, 2023 at 4:45 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Wisht I had had the same good luck. >> I ordered two gallons, took about 45 minutes to get through the >> re-applying to the new website, some ridiculous requirements for the >> password, (it's a store, not a bank!) and after jumping back and forth >> through a couple tabs and hitting send, saw the color had gone back to the >> default of black instead of the blue I had selected. I called them the >> next morning when they opened, and the *nice* lady told me it was too late >> - it didn't even have a label on it yet. >> I just sawr it has been shipped as black. So now I am going to have to >> pay around $150 to send it back, and have it resent. Not a happy camper. I >> think the once loyal employees are quiet-quitting from the new hedge fund >> owners. I have been buying from them since I was a kid in the sixties when >> they were selling mostly fiberglass and polyester. . So much for that. >> >> Bill Coleman >> Erie PA >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Listers in North Carolina?
Another interesting way to ship awkward stuff like that is via Greyhound! Bill Coleman On Wed, Apr 5, 2023 at 5:32 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Chuck, > > Yes, we saw a bunch of kiteboarders and windsurfers on the sound side of > Hatteras near Avon. We were there during a gale warning - the ferries even > shut down. > > Regarding the boom, I looked on Selden’s website for dealers in the US and > contacted a half-dozen of them. I learned that shipping a new boom to > Colorado was going to cost me $1K (yes, seriously). Meanwhile I already > had a three-week trip planned with my travel trailer to the Florida > panhandle (St. George Island State Park, fantastic place), St. Augustine > where a race week was happening coincidentally, Charleston, the Outer > Banks, and home via Nashville and Lake of the Ozarks. Omar Sails in New > Bern, NC is a Selden dealer and was one of the half-dozen I contacted. > Craig Beavers there was by far the most responsive and helpful of all the > dealers I contacted. He told me there is a Selden manufacturing site in > Charleston, and confirmed I could pick up the boom there myself and > transport it home in my travel trailer (which has 24’ finished space). So > I ordered the boom from Craig, and stopped at Selden about a week ago and > met the guys who built it, and we stuffed it into my trailer. It was an > obvious and easy way to save $1K in shipping. > > Annapolis was not on the itinerary for this trip, but thanks for the offer! > > Cheers, > Randy > > > On Apr 4, 2023, at 9:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER > wrote: > > > > Hey Randy, > > Agree, Ocracoke is very charming. It has a cute little harbor and > marina and a wonderfully long beach where I used to drive my Subaru loaded > with windsurfers about twenty years ago. My wife and I made a windsurf > trip in 2020 to Hatteras and sailed the sound side behind Avon for a week. > Incredible seafood restaurants. "Apple Uglys" from the bakery in Buxton > are a must. > > > > Curious how you discovered a sailmaker in NC? > > > > I imagine you are driving around with that boom, sightseeing your way > back to Colorado? Let me know if you plan to get close to Annapolis. I'd > love to get you out on my boat. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Magothy River > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale
Wisht I had had the same good luck. I ordered two gallons, took about 45 minutes to get through the re-applying to the new website, some ridiculous requirements for the password, (it's a store, not a bank!) and after jumping back and forth through a couple tabs and hitting send, saw the color had gone back to the default of black instead of the blue I had selected. I called them the next morning when they opened, and the *nice* lady told me it was too late - it didn't even have a label on it yet. I just sawr it has been shipped as black. So now I am going to have to pay around $150 to send it back, and have it resent. Not a happy camper. I think the once loyal employees are quiet-quitting from the new hedge fund owners. I have been buying from them since I was a kid in the sixties when they were selling mostly fiberglass and polyester. . So much for that. Bill Coleman Erie PA On Fri, Mar 31, 2023 at 4:30 PM Don Kern via CnC-List wrote: > Same here - Ordered a gallon of bottom paint from Defender late yesterday > evening, it was delivered today by 3:00 pm. Defender had the best price i > could find. > > Don Kern > *Fireball,* C&C35 Mk2 > Bristol, RI > > On 3/30/2023 3:00 PM, Mike Rose via CnC-List wrote: > > FWIW.. > > I ordered my bottom paint @ 9:30am today, paint was 15% off, my Defender 1 > discount was added, and over $99 free shipping. > I was notified @ 11:30 from UPS it had shipped. > The Website/checkout experience was nice, bummed that my past order > history was missing. > > Mike R > > On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 2:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> FWIW, the Defender sale started today. I see some good prices on bottom >> paint compared to other sites but not sure of the shipping charges. >> >> Chuck S >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution > at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Source for Lower lifeline bushings?
Are you referring to the top or lower lifeline? In the older boats the top was a cast bronze eye, with, I think a half inch od X 16 ga. Tube bushing for the lower - Bill Coleman On Mon, Mar 20, 2023, 20:04 Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > I have replaced Windstar's (33-2) lifelines, and need to find replacement > bushings. The originals have n ID of .309, the replacements I've seen are > either too large (OD) or too small (ID). Does anyone have a source for > original sized bushings? > > Thx. Dave > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Who's following Ocean Race?
Yes! It's like flying, anybody can take off in a plane, but landing is another story.! When he first launched it, he almost ran the drone into the leech. I would think they would buy one of those splash drones that can survive in water. Bill Coleman On Sat, Mar 18, 2023, 18:08 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I wish they had shown the catch... > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C&C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > > On Mar 18, 2023, at 2:22 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > That is freaking incredible. My resistance to purchasing a drone is > waning. > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 3:05 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi, >> I've been following the IMOCA foilers every day. The coverage has been >> spectaculare because each boat has a photo/journalist aboard to cover the >> experience in video. My favorite is Malizia with Boris Herrmann. The >> recent drone footage has been amazing of cruising at 25 to 29knots >> boatspeed, nobody touching a sheet. >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZgT-FwyU0 >> >> I also follow the GGR race, where the sailors are sailing solo around the >> world, in older 35 footers without GPS or any computers. A woman named >> Kirsten is leading as they have rounded the Horn and approach the equator >> headed back to the finish in France. >> >> Chuck S >> >> On 03/18/2023 2:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> After racing for 20+ days, the 4 boats are within 20 nm of each other. >> >> https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker >> >> -- >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Who's following Ocean Race?
That is freaking incredible. My resistance to purchasing a drone is waning. Bill Coleman Erie PA On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 3:05 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi, > I've been following the IMOCA foilers every day. The coverage has been > spectaculare because each boat has a photo/journalist aboard to cover the > experience in video. My favorite is Malizia with Boris Herrmann. The > recent drone footage has been amazing of cruising at 25 to 29knots > boatspeed, nobody touching a sheet. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZgT-FwyU0 > > I also follow the GGR race, where the sailors are sailing solo around the > world, in older 35 footers without GPS or any computers. A woman named > Kirsten is leading as they have rounded the Horn and approach the equator > headed back to the finish in France. > > Chuck S > > On 03/18/2023 2:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > > After racing for 20+ days, the 4 boats are within 20 nm of each other. > > https://www.theoceanrace.com/en/racing/tracker > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Cabin Ceiling Panels
To Piggyback on Alan's Home Depot, I see they have some nice vinyl white Wainscot, you could probably attach it with a lot of self Adhesive velcro. My cabin ceiling is made up of something like that and it looks great overhead, and next to varnished wood. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HOUSE-OF-FARA-W96WP-12-sq-ft-White-Vinyl-Reversible-Interior-Exterior-Paneling-3-Piece-Per-Pack-W96WP/205437105 Bill Coleman On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 4:48 PM John McCrea via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Great idea, Thanks. > > > > *From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, March 13, 2023 4:27 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Cabin Ceiling Panels > > > > I replaced mine with fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) which you can get at > Home Depot. > > > > Alan > > > > > > On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 1:18 PM John McCrea via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello. I am in the process of pulling all my ceiling panels out so I can > add new deck organizers, rope clutches and remove the four winches around > the mast. My panels are a thin marine plywood/veneer covered with vinyl. I > had painted them in place when I bought the boat and repainted the interior > cabin sides and ceiling, after having to fix some issues with the cabin > window frames etc. I am really tempted to replace and wanted to know if > anyone had gone with a thin plexiglass? Thanks. > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > 1979 36-1 > > Mystic, CT > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!r_QSu_xAOTQ2jS1TIymz_h-8Vp_mrs471CwzIn3Iu6mElgbUpQI6-nCsN0n3bDsOnrfTs2kNtYjOYKtYDtElIUE$ > <https://urldefense.com/v3/__https:/www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!r_QSu_xAOTQ2jS1TIymz_h-8Vp_mrs471CwzIn3Iu6mElgbUpQI6-nCsN0n3bDsOnrfTs2kNtYjOYKtYDtElIUE$> > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 25 depth sounder location
Ditto on the Green. The further you get from centerline and keel, the more distorted your readings are likely to be. Bill Coleman On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 3:03 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The depth sounder on my 42 Custom is approximately where your green marker > is, which is what I believe Bill referred to. As Bill noted, mine is to > starboard. Contrary to what Bill said, mine is located just forward of the > solid glass. When I replaced my speed and depth transducers several years > ago, I used the same location. Water from the balsa core literally ran > down my arm when I removed the old transducers and pushed on the soaking > wet balsa core. We dried out the entire area and created solid epoxy > “plugs” larger than the old holes for redrilling the new transducer holes. > This was not a difficult job, but then again I have a “stick boat.” > > > > A 1982 C&C 25 didn’t come with speed and depth transducers? > > > > *From:* Juliano Franz via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, March 13, 2023 2:37 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Juliano Franz > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 25 depth sounder location > > > > Hi all, > Sorry about ressurecting this topic. I only had time to go to the boat > this past weekend. Bill, the boat is a C&C 25 > > Here is an "annotated" drawing from Sailboat data that I will use for my > questions: https://imgur.com/a/3Ar35Pb > > To me, there are three options (some easier than others) to cut the hull > (2 inches round) and add the transducer: > > Red marker: At the moment, the original (I think?) depth sounder is > located in the red marker *inside* the hull. > > Yellow marker: There is a small access port to the fibreglass on the > yellow marker that *could* fit the depth/speed transducer. It feels very > high on the hull and a bit fragile as the fitting would stick out of the > access port and be a bit exposed (second picture of the link) > > Green marker: Last option, cut a square access *hatch* on the plastic > liner wall (orange mark) that separates the "inside" of the boat from the > fiberglass hull and then cut a hole on the green mark. > > Any mindhive thoughts? I am very nervous about making a hole in the wrong > place :) > > Thanks! > > > > On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 8:22 PM John Irvin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Agreed > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Feb 23, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Not sure which model you are referring to, but most often they are just > ahead of the keel, but off to one side several inches, usually SB, I think > . There should be a section adjacent to the centerline where it is solid > Glass before it goes up onto the balsa. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie PA > > > > On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 5:50 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > I bit the bullet in this year's boat show and bought a wind/depth combo > from Garmin. New electronics since 1982 on Spice. > > > > Im having a bit of a hard time finding where to place the transducer > (airmar depth, speed, temp). Manual says ahead of the keel but access on > the 25 Mk II seems limited. > > > > Anyone around here has any tips? > > > > Cheers > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ca7533deb65e94effc38108db15f91598%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638127931781975244%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=yK7BTLkEGSYjk5eKhyzKAjtemofVZORgBpAJKfgomNU%3D&reserved=0> > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: winch mounting project
When I decided I had to have self-tailers for my foresail, I decided against changing brands, and just put in a search on eBay for variant self-tailers. Eventually a perfect pair of stainless steel winches self-tailers popped up, and I scarfed them up. I didn't even have to remove the bases, just the drum. Bill Coleman On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 17:40 Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > David - I sail windstar singlehanded a lot, and don’t have a self tailing > halyard winch. Just use a line clutch. I raise it by hand, and finish > with the winch, tailing it myself. I have a bank of clutches on either > side of the cabin top and these tail halyards, reefing lines, my topping > lift, etc. > Easy. > > Dave > Windstar 33-2 > > Sent from my iPhone > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Chandleries
Yes, and I think this was probably the big advantage that the old Defender had over West Marine. With the exception of some of the main yachting centers, if you would go into any West Marine store, which for me would be either Cleveland or Buffalo, You could spray a paintball machine gun around the store and not hit a soul. It's always nice to be able to go through these stores and browse, but I'm sure that West Marine lost a shitload of money on them. Probably still is. Sad to say, that online is probably the only viable approach anymore. I think another problem with the marine industry is the layers of distribution that add percentages on percentages to the cost. Some of these layers have been removed in the last 40 years, but it is still a burden. Bill Coleman Entrada Erie PA On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 15:19 John Read via CnC-List wrote: > I seem to recall Jamestown closed their store and are now 100% on line > only??? If so not sure impact on service, price etc. > John Read > Legacy III > Noank CT > 1982 C&C 34 > > On Fri, Mar 10, 2023, 11:34 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Jamestown Distributors has always given me great service. I haven't >> compared their prices for a while but they were in line with other places >> or lower. They have their own brand called Total Boat, which is very good, >> unlike most West Marine brands. >> Andy >> >> >> Andrew Burton >> 26 Beacon Hill >> Newport, RI >> USA 02840 >> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ >> >> phone +401 965 5260 >> >> >> On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 11:27 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Most people I talk to are disappointed at the direction Defender has >>> been going after being purchased by a Hedge Fund, or whomever, and West has >>> been pretty pricey since Randy Repass left years ago, and now that doesn't >>> look too good - >>> >>> <>> <https://disclosure.spglobal.com/ratings/en/regulatory/article/-/view/type/HTML/id/2954392> >>> Rising Tide Holdings to SD, which means selective default. “We view the >>> transaction as tantamount to a default because creditors will receive less >>> value than originally promised, and we view the exchange as distressed,” >>> S&P wrote.>> >>> >>> I guess Rising Tides, dba West Marine, is ebbing. >>> >>> Does anyone have any favorites for Parts, like BOE Marine, Go2Marine, >>> etc? I can't find my bottom paint for less than $395 A Gallon. Even >>> Fishermen's supply is not that great anymore. >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> Entrada Erie, PA >>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks for your help. >>> Stu >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Chandleries
Most people I talk to are disappointed at the direction Defender has been going after being purchased by a Hedge Fund, or whomever, and West has been pretty pricey since Randy Repass left years ago, and now that doesn't look too good - <https://disclosure.spglobal.com/ratings/en/regulatory/article/-/view/type/HTML/id/2954392> Rising Tide Holdings to SD, which means selective default. “We view the transaction as tantamount to a default because creditors will receive less value than originally promised, and we view the exchange as distressed,” S&P wrote.>> I guess Rising Tides, dba West Marine, is ebbing. Does anyone have any favorites for Parts, like BOE Marine, Go2Marine, etc? I can't find my bottom paint for less than $395 A Gallon. Even Fishermen's supply is not that great anymore. Bill Coleman Entrada Erie, PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: UV Strip
My current Dacron Jib has Insignia sticky-back on the leech, which I am not happy with. I wonder if anyone else following this has Sticky-Back as a UV, and if they have noticed they have a frisbee leech? I would have expected the leech to be needing some leech line adjustment by now, but I have it all the way off and still can't get the cup out of the leech. I am afraid if I take it off I will be stuck with sticky crap that I cannot remove. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Mar 2, 2023 at 10:57 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Also has the benefit that it doesn't add weight to the leach of the sail, > which can be important in light wind. As well, > there is less of a chance your furled sail will unwind in a wind...because > it is encased in the sockso the sock has to fail as well. > > The drawback of course is you have to put the sock on and off...but having > used both, my boat with leach UV protection > and J-105 with sock. The extra 5 minutes doesn't kill me. If you sailed > alone a lot, might be more of a nuisance but I try to > avoid that as I am more of a social person so I prefer to find anybody to > go sailing with. > > My future sails will be sock based. > > Cheers, > Jeff Nelson > Muir Caileag > C&C 30 - 549 > Armdale Y.C. > > On 2023-03-02 11:44, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: > > Bacon’s told me their price for the material had recently doubled, so > socks probably cost more too. > > On the other hand a sock works for ALL sails, not just one, and you can > get it repaired without dragging the whole sail into the loft. > > > > Joe > > Coquina > > > > *From:* Richard Servance via CnC-List > > *Sent:* Thursday, March 2, 2023 9:58 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Richard Servance > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: UV Strip > > > > I just had North replace the UV cover on my 135%. It was a boat buck > ($1k). Hadn't heard of the sock method; so not sure if it's still an option > from them. > > > Sail safe, > > > Richard Servance > > S/V Blue Heaven (C&C 34+) > > 757-995-3416 > @svblueheaven > Seattle, WA > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: UV Strip
You know, I would bet dollars to donuts that if you offered the loft to remove the old UV Cover, so all the loft had to do is cut and sew a new one on, you would get quite a break. It is a pain in the Arse to get something like that in, that takes more time to clean up and prepare than it does to just do the job the first time. Just sayin. Bill Coleman On Thu, Mar 2, 2023 at 9:59 AM Richard Servance via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I just had North replace the UV cover on my 135%. It was a boat buck > ($1k). Hadn't heard of the sock method; so not sure if it's still an option > from them. > > > Sail safe, > > > Richard Servance > > S/V Blue Heaven (C&C 34+) > > 757-995-3416 > @svblueheaven > Seattle, WA > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I
Somebody's got to be our Guinea Pig. Might as well be Chuck. We'll all be waiting for your report, Chuck. Bill On Wed, Mar 1, 2023 at 11:25 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > That stuff is nasty – I would not put that on a sail. > > > > > > *Joe Della Barba* > > > > > > > > *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 1, 2023 10:04 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I > > > > Inflatable boat paint? Wonder how long paint lasts on a sail? > > > > C > > On 03/01/2023 8:55 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > > > > > I thought we resolved this problem last year. Didn't the general consensus > come out that the best solution is using inflatable boat paint to paint the > UV protection on? > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie PA > > > > On Wed, Mar 1, 2023, 08:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Don, > > > > You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling sail. > > > > I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I couldn't find a > solution that was cost effective. The costs of replacing the sun cover (and > I wanted just a Dacron sacrificial one; nothing fancy) was around 60%-80% > of the cost of a new sail. > > > > My boat is smaller (27'), so the sails are smaller and cheaper. > > > > I ended up ordering a new furling sail. The original lasted 10 years. > Actually, it is still fine, except the sun cover is UV damaged. > > > > Marek > > 1994 C270 Legato > > Ottawa On > > > > > > > > Sent from my Android-based can on a string > > > > > > Original message > > From: Don Kern via CnC-List > > Date: 2023-02-28 17:31 (GMT-05:00) > > To: Glen Eddie via CnC-List > > Cc: Don Kern > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I > > > > Glen, > > My C&C 35 Mk2 carries for racing #1 (155% '22), #2 (137% '07), #2 reacher > (129% '95), #3 (110% '19), and #4 (85% '18). I usually push my sails for > 20 yrs - (the older #1 '02 vintage still decent, but not good enuf for > racing. For cruising have a furling #2 (137% '98) which I just got back > from North with a replaced sun cover (no foam), because the sun cover's > original stitching had failed. The old reacher is carried on board only > for long distance racing on Buzzard's Bay, RI Sound and Long Island Sound. > The #2 furling, and #4 were purchased as second-hand sails. Most racing > is done with the #1 and #2, with the #3 and #4 used in "remind me that > this is FUN!!" conditions. It is my opinion that a furling sail does not > hold its aerodynamic shape when you start rolling it in. When racing I put > reefs in the main before I downsize the genoas. JMHO > > Don Kern > C&C35 Mk2, *Fireball* > Bristol, RI > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I
I thought we resolved this problem last year. Didn't the general consensus come out that the best solution is using inflatable boat paint to paint the UV protection on? Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Wed, Mar 1, 2023, 08:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Don, > > You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling sail. > > I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I couldn't find a > solution that was cost effective. The costs of replacing the sun cover (and > I wanted just a Dacron sacrificial one; nothing fancy) was around 60%-80% > of the cost of a new sail. > > My boat is smaller (27'), so the sails are smaller and cheaper. > > I ended up ordering a new furling sail. The original lasted 10 years. > Actually, it is still fine, except the sun cover is UV damaged. > > Marek > 1994 C270 Legato > Ottawa On > > > > Sent from my Android-based can on a string > > > Original message > From: Don Kern via CnC-List > Date: 2023-02-28 17:31 (GMT-05:00) > To: Glen Eddie via CnC-List > Cc: Don Kern > Subject: Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I > > Glen, > > My C&C 35 Mk2 carries for racing #1 (155% '22), #2 (137% '07), #2 reacher > (129% '95), #3 (110% '19), and #4 (85% '18). I usually push my sails for > 20 yrs - (the older #1 '02 vintage still decent, but not good enuf for > racing. For cruising have a furling #2 (137% '98) which I just got back > from North with a replaced sun cover (no foam), because the sun cover's > original stitching had failed. The old reacher is carried on board only > for long distance racing on Buzzard's Bay, RI Sound and Long Island Sound. > The #2 furling, and #4 were purchased as second-hand sails. Most racing > is done with the #1 and #2, with the #3 and #4 used in "remind me that > this is FUN!!" conditions. It is my opinion that a furling sail does not > hold its aerodynamic shape when you start rolling it in. When racing I put > reefs in the main before I downsize the genoas. JMHO > > Don Kern > C&C35 Mk2, *Fireball* > Bristol, RI > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 25 depth sounder location
Not sure which model you are referring to, but most often they are just ahead of the keel, but off to one side several inches, usually SB, I think . There should be a section adjacent to the centerline where it is solid Glass before it goes up onto the balsa. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 5:50 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Folks, > I bit the bullet in this year's boat show and bought a wind/depth combo > from Garmin. New electronics since 1982 on Spice. > > Im having a bit of a hard time finding where to place the transducer > (airmar depth, speed, temp). Manual says ahead of the keel but access on > the 25 Mk II seems limited. > > Anyone around here has any tips? > > Cheers > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Removing datamarine speed transducer C&C 29 mk2
Ditto on the Sawzall, Vertically. Bill Coleman On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 12:01 PM John Heaton via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi folks - I’m looking to remove my original Data Marine instruments and > wow did they find the most difficult place to install the depth and speed > transducers. I’m going to leave the depth in and replace the speed > transducer with a new airmar transducer. > > I’ve been able to unscrew the old transducer but it will not release. Does > anyone know how they were installed (epoxy, 3m 5200) as they will not come > out even when hitting the top with a rubber mallet. > > Thanks > > Double on the Rocks > Toronto > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Shower
True, but it's all in concentration. Too much and yes, you will eat through your keelbolts. Just a tiny bit, and you will kill the nasty stuff that grows in there. I once put a chlorine pellet in one of my strainers, and it it ate Holes through the stainless steel strainer . Having said all that, when I first got my 39, I decided to get all of the mildew out of it and took everything out of the boat, nice mixture of Tide, chlorine and ammonia, sprayed it all around, power washed it, rinsed it and sucked it out. If a little bit of cleaner is good, a lot is better right,? I'm lucky to be alive. Little did I know then that ammonia and chlorine creates mustard gas! Live and learn! Bill Coleman On Wed, Feb 15, 2023, 21:58 Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote: > My friend Bill Coleman on this list cautioned me against using Clorox in > the bilge for fear of damaging the stainless keel bolts. > > > > *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 7:29 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* dwight veinot > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower > > > > Add some anti bacterial detergent to the bilge and maybe a cup of > chlorox/javex once in a while > > > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2023 at 7:01 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Ive found it useful in removing oils. > > > > Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> > -- > > *From:* Matt Wolford via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:51:33 PM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower > > > > Probably the reason for a separate pump and discharge that by-passes the > bilge. > > > > *From:* David Risch via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:46 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* David Risch > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower > > > > I have heard discharging shower grey water into bilge created a > soapy/scummy mess in the bilge? > > > > > > > > *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:11 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Robert Abbott > *Subject:* Stus-List Shower > > > > My 32 has the same set up...shower hose from the sink facet...sump with a > teak gratesump pump under the sink for a separate discharge just below > the toe rail opposite the head starboard side. > > All woks fine but never use it. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. > > On 2023-02-15 1:59 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote: > > That was the set-up on the 42 Custom. A shower hose was integral to the > sink faucet. On my boat, the shower head was attached to a wall rack for > adjusting the height. The floor is a teak grate with a very thin plastic > catch pan underneath. The pan drained to a “sump” pump with a separate > discharge. I removed everything but the drain pan, which now has a hose to > drain to the bilge. I’m in the process of installing a shower on deck for > use after swimming. > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:38 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Bill Coleman > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower drain > > > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > -- > > Sent from Gmail Mobile > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Shower drain
I thought most of the showers and these boats are just faucets that you pull out on a hose and hang on the wall Bill Coleman Erie PA On Wed, Feb 15, 2023, 12:23 Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote: > That’s interesting that all those 34’s have showers…never knew. I have a > small hole in the floor of my head and it goes to the bilge too, but no > shower head to speak of. Never thought I’d need one. > > > > Paul Hood > > REFUGE - ’81 C&C34 Georgian Bay > > > > *From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 11:50 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Todd Williams ; Korbey Hunt < > kampf2...@hotmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower drain > > > > I have a 1980 C&C. My shower drains to the bilge. > > > > Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> > -- > > *From:* Todd Williams via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:52:58 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Todd Williams > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower drain > > > > John, I also have a C&C34 (1980 vintage). I bought the boat with the > shower sump not functioning but have always found the Lake Ontario waters > to be sufficient for bodily cleaning. I think my problem is the 43 year old > pump that is covered in rust up in the cabinetry! I did consider drilling a > hole to drain the shower into the bilge but decided not to do that because, > when I am sinking in Lake Ontario and the water is 3 inches deep in the > cabin it will start filling the shower pan and that little pump (that I > haven’t replaced yet) will act as a second bilge pump and keep me afloat a > little longer. ;) > > > > My son received a 3D Printer for his birthday three months ago. He has > found so many projects around the house to print parts and improve our > abode. His machine ran nonstop and he was setting alarms for 3AM to start > new projects. Other than the rubber flapper part of that intake assembly, > it would be 3D printable. > > > > Find a Makerspace in your area. Call the high school engineering teacher. > In our old town the library had a 3D printer. There’s bound to be another > teenager who would take measurements with calipers, make a measured CAD > drawing, and print it for you. Plan E would be to send us the part and my > son could manufacture it. > > > > Todd Williams > > Indigo Out We Go > > - Formerly Sodus, NY now Saco, ME and trying to find a mooring within two > hours drive! 3-7 year waitlists all around! > > > > > > On Tue, Feb 14, 2023 at 9:28 PM John Read via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Seeking sources to replace the shower drain. It apparently uses parts > from the Jabsco little pal 1 ¼ hand pump – the angled intake base > 33839-0100 plus foot strainer with integral disc valve 33632-0100. After > much internet research and phone calls these parts are no longer available > and have been unable to locate them. Any ideas on locating them -or- a > suitable replacement? The shower pan can tolerate only this design or very > similar > > TIA > > John Read > > Legacy III > > 1982 C&C 34 > > Noank, CT > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C056dad24bee54568634108db0f3a9047%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638120516440368301%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=raE2NxQxfj2WeOXdXYSHbjKhiSmaFb5ocNo6gjvf1Xs%3D&reserved=0> > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 34 aluminum plates on bulkhead
Nice Job on the Bow mod - I see something similar in my future. Are you happy with the style of your Spinnaker attachment? I have to say I have never seen one quite like that. I can see that you don't have to lean over so far - Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 2:31 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello Mack, > I have a 1981 C&C 34 and those outboard vertical plates on the bulkheads > are stainless steel, not aluminum. I would be very skeptical if any of > those components have been replaced with aluminum. These components attach > the deck to the bulkheads since to save cost (and allow the molded head > liner) the bulkheads were not tabbed in to the deck. I haven't had leaks > there on my boat at the point you describe (my genoa tracks seem well > sealed). However, the windows are hard to seal and might be leaking and so > it is also possible that is where the water is coming from and then > dripping down to the bulkhead (I would say that is in fact a likely source > of water in that area). Of course also check that the bulkhead isn't > rotted. The plates on top of the metal poles close to the main traveler > also are a problematic leak point (for me on the starboard side a little > water drips down the inside of that tube and ends up under the stove). I > would agree that if the bulkhead is rotted beyond repair and needs to be > replaced that might be a deal breaker. > > Regardless you definitely want to check the whole deck for soft spots - > around the head vent, chain plates and penetrations for the bulkhead > attachments were the main problems on my boat (where I replaced the core in > 2020 - see https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7 if you are curious > about what I did). All repairable but good to know what you are getting > into as it is a big project (I also glassed a lot of old holes that weren't > needed and rebedded almost all the deck hardware, replaced the fixed > windows, rebuilt the forward hatch, and added a bow roller and asym tack > point > https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN46y4vVixlceiv3AjB6UPNMGJqgTuuwxos4pobHlp1XsBQnteV-IcwYMBlBfcjXw?key=aTVDcEFMX3dzVFVSeFZVY256WWs5bkYtSlpWM2hR > as part of the project). > > Feel free to reach out if you have other questions on the boat. > Nathan > S/V Wisper > 1981 C&C 34 KCB > Portland ME > > > > On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 1:33 PM Mack McKinney via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi everyone! >> >> I'm seriously considering purchasing a 1980 C&C 34. I have yet to make >> an in-person inspection, as the boat is 4 hours away, but in pictures I >> notice attached to the partial bulkheads which separate the settees from >> the galley/nav area there are what appear to be chainplates. Those >> aluminum plates are rather far aft for any standing rigging. Their >> purpose, I reckon, is to reinforce the genoa track (correct me if I'm >> way off, and these are distinguished from the aluminum tubes which, I >> suppose, reinforce the mainsheet traveler. So, here's my question: >> there is noticeable water incursion, as there is some streaking on the >> port bulkhead below the "chainplate." I assume I need to be prepared for >> deck core rot, and possible rot in the teak plywood of the bulkhead. The >> extent of any rot, if it requires the replacement of that bulkhead, may >> be a deal-breaker. Thoughts? Am I on the right track? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Mack >> Formerly C&C 30-104 >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Limber Holes
I'll bet you the reason there is water in the chain locker, is the angle of the boat. In our yard, the dockmasters have always had this bent towards blocking the boats in a bow up attitude, they say for drainage. I have been unable to convince them that boats are designed to drain as they sit in the water, level, and when they start messing with that, water pools where it shouldn't . They start rolling their eyes when I pull out my level, and start putting it on the waterline to try and get it level.\ Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 1:51 PM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Matt. My Bruckman 38 MKII has the very same limber hole problem > Itried yo get at them from the other side, but the ones at the bulkhead > chainplate locker are closed off with cabinetry. > After this discussion, after I confirm that they are even open, I will try > the poured epoxy idea from the esrlier video. That chainplate locker has > the hull on the outside, I don't want to chance redrilling the holes and > going through the hull. > But this thread puts the project on my spring list. > Just a note, I was required to have my boat surveyed this past November > for insurance coverage. Besides nut reading the expiration dates of my > flares and noting that one of my batteries wasn't secured He noted that > there wss water at the bottom of my chain plate lockers > They are usually dry, which I suppose means that they eventually drain, > but he surved the boat out of the water and in the second day of rain.. > Thanks guys for the comments now on my list. > Ron C. > > On Jan 26, 2023 1:06 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > I like it, too. However, drilling out copper tubes in tight locations > seems like a burdensome way to go. I suspect he’s correct about why the > holes were not placed flush (the drill getting in the way), but this could > have been easily remedied by drilling up from downhill of the hole where > there’s a lot more room to maneuver. The fact that they didn’t do that > suggests either: a) there’s a problem with doing that I have yet to > discover; or b) who cares if puddles of water accumulate here and there – > get the boat out the door and start building the next one. > > > > After the weather warms up a bit, I will try re-orienting a limber hole > using Joel’s suggested approach and see how it goes. I’ll report back to > let you know how it goes. In the meantime, if any of you can think of an > easier or better way (like my poured epoxy idea?), let me know. Thanks. > > > > Matt > > > > *From:* Richard Bush > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2023 11:34 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re: Limber Holes > > > > I like Joel's suggestion; opening up the hole down to the hull surface, > then putting sealer or epoxy in replacement of the tubing to keep the water > from soaking into the hull...; my personal solution is an assortment of > sponges and turkey basters > > > > Richard > > s/v Bushmark4; 1085 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; > > > > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > > (502) 584-7255 > > > > > > -Original Message- > From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List > To: 'Stus-List' > Cc: wolf...@erie.net > Sent: Thu, Jan 26, 2023 11:07 am > Subject: Stus-List Re: Limber Holes > > Good suggestion, but I think the holes are lined with copper tubing or > something to transport the water. I could re-construct each limber hole, > but I’m hoping for a simpler solution. > > > > *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2023 11:01 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Joel Aronson > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Limber Holes > > > > Dremel with a flex shaft to lower the holes? > > > > Joel > > > > On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 10:50 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Thanks, Chuck. I’m good about keeping a reasonably dry bilge. In > addition, because I’m at a dock with electricity, I keep a dehumidifier on > board as well as fan to constantly circulate air. I rarely encounter a > mold issue. However, I do have small puddles of sitting water just above > the limber holes in concealed areas (below the floorboards). If water > doesn’t drain through the limber hole, it never reaches the bilge. That’s > the problem I’m trying to solve. > > > > *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER > *Sent:* Thursday, January 26, 2023 10:10 AM > *To:* Stus-List ; Ronald B. Frerker < > rbf
Stus-List Re: Thru Hull
Oh! I didn't think Groco had the flush Mount - Bill On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 5:31 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > My boat has all flush mount. I like Groco. > > > > > https://www.groco.net/products/fittings/thru-hull-fittings/fth-series-flush-mount > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, January 19, 2023 5:24 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Bill Coleman > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Thru Hull > > > > Interestingly, Buck Algonquin seems to have been purchased by Deep Blue. > > > > https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/bronze-thru-hulls > > > > and they don't seem to carry the 'F' flush style anymore. Must not have > been enough demand for it. Maybe you can get the mushroom type and sand it > down, and put the bevel on the inside, if the OD is right. I am assuming > that is 1" NPS, by your scale. > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie PA > > (former C&C 39) > > > > On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 3:30 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Actually, it looks more like it would be the 00th100f, with the F meaning > Flush.. > > Fisheries Supply has a lot, but I don't see this one. > > For some reason I think C&C used Buck Algonquin for a lot of their bronze > stuff. > > > > Bill > > > > On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 3:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Looks like a Buck Alqonquin # 00thh100 1'' 1'' 3-1/4'' 2-3/8'' .80 > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada Erie PA > > > > On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:13 PM Tom A via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hello all, > > I had to replace my stbd cockpit drain Seacock and unfortunately could not > save the thru-hull fitting. It is a flush mount style that fits into a > recessed space on the hull. I’ve looked at a few manufacturers, but nothing > matches up great. Before I start a salvage search, or try to adapt a new > one, I was wondering if anybody had any advice. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/16YqXM8JLY596Io3Ay_VKXnsXBCECw2_8/view?usp=share_link > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Thru Hull
Interestingly, Buck Algonquin seems to have been purchased by Deep Blue. https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/bronze-thru-hulls and they don't seem to carry the 'F' flush style anymore. Must not have been enough demand for it. Maybe you can get the mushroom type and sand it down, and put the bevel on the inside, if the OD is right. I am assuming that is 1" NPS, by your scale. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA (former C&C 39) On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 3:30 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Actually, it looks more like it would be the 00th100f, with the F meaning >> Flush.. >> Fisheries Supply has a lot, but I don't see this one. >> For some reason I think C&C used Buck Algonquin for a lot of their bronze >> stuff. >> >> Bill >> >> On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 3:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Looks like a Buck Alqonquin # 00thh100 1'' 1'' 3-1/4'' 2-3/8'' .80 >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> Entrada Erie PA >>> >>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:13 PM Tom A via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Hello all, >>>> >>>> I had to replace my stbd cockpit drain Seacock and unfortunately could >>>> not save the thru-hull fitting. It is a flush mount style that fits into a >>>> recessed space on the hull. I’ve looked at a few manufacturers, but nothing >>>> matches up great. Before I start a salvage search, or try to adapt a new >>>> one, I was wondering if anybody had any advice. >>>> >>>> >>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/16YqXM8JLY596Io3Ay_VKXnsXBCECw2_8/view?usp=share_link >>>> >>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Thru Hull
Actually, it looks more like it would be the 00th100f, with the F meaning Flush.. Fisheries Supply has a lot, but I don't see this one. For some reason I think C&C used Buck Algonquin for a lot of their bronze stuff. Bill On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 3:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Looks like a Buck Alqonquin # 00thh100 1'' 1'' 3-1/4'' 2-3/8'' .80 > > Bill Coleman > Entrada Erie PA > > On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:13 PM Tom A via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Hello all, >> >> I had to replace my stbd cockpit drain Seacock and unfortunately could >> not save the thru-hull fitting. It is a flush mount style that fits into a >> recessed space on the hull. I’ve looked at a few manufacturers, but nothing >> matches up great. Before I start a salvage search, or try to adapt a new >> one, I was wondering if anybody had any advice. >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/16YqXM8JLY596Io3Ay_VKXnsXBCECw2_8/view?usp=share_link >> >> Thanks >> >> Tom >> >> C&C 36 >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Thru Hull
Looks like a Buck Alqonquin # 00thh100 1'' 1'' 3-1/4'' 2-3/8'' .80 Bill Coleman Entrada Erie PA On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 12:13 PM Tom A via CnC-List wrote: > Hello all, > > I had to replace my stbd cockpit drain Seacock and unfortunately could not > save the thru-hull fitting. It is a flush mount style that fits into a > recessed space on the hull. I’ve looked at a few manufacturers, but nothing > matches up great. Before I start a salvage search, or try to adapt a new > one, I was wondering if anybody had any advice. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/16YqXM8JLY596Io3Ay_VKXnsXBCECw2_8/view?usp=share_link > > Thanks > > Tom > > C&C 36 > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker
The local Schock 35's use a dip pole, it doesn't seem that difficult. That Baby Stay was the Bane of my Sym Spinnaker days - I am thinking, if this is a 33-2, you may have forward lower stays? If so, you should be able to pull enough prebend into your spar to not worry about the baby stay. If you want to keep things simple, I would think a single mast attachment would be fine. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* and...@apwengineering.com > *Subject:* Stus-List C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker > > > > Good day, > > I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical spinnakers, > and time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was hoping for some input > from the group. > > The boat has never been setup for spinnaker. > >1. Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe >the purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the sail, and >also to prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up wind. I would think >that this needs to be disengaged to make gybing possible. Any suggestions >other than mounting a track on the cabin top? >2. Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip gybe. >End to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged. Does anybody have >any experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2? >3. Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would >assume deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or another >option would be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy, with a forward lead, >as a downhaul. Not sure if the angle would be sufficient, probably OK >though. >4. Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would >assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but >wondering if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think there >would be but wanted to check. >5. Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a single >attachment point head high(ish). > > Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We will > do some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some input, or > some good online resources to help me make the decisions on what needs to > be done. Also we only have a pair of primaries and an addition pair is not > in the short term plan. > > Thanks! > > Andy > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)
That must have been quite a sight! Was it balanced, sitting in the mud? Seems like that could have been a whole lot worse. Bill Coleman On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 15:00 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C&C 36-1. > > Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all > the water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines. > > I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South > Shore Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated. > > Piccies: > Port side broken stern chock > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-3Yn1jPxa1p4-mzGdOuABU0TvxlohyD&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs> > Starboard broken stern chock > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-JOd2DQcynStSPS7SQKP6cKHEjVvLLL&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs> > > Thanks, > -- > Tim Rutherford > Davis Island Yacht Club > Tampa, FL > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Rudder part needed Landfall 43
You might ask Sourh Shore if they could get the part. Failing that, you could take it to a small casting shop and see if they would cast you a one-off in Bronze. or maybe 2. Failing that, you could fabricate a facsimile out of SS, but you would have to make the collar end a little bigger so you could squeeze a bronze bushing in. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Mon, Jan 9, 2023 at 1:30 PM david coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Hello , >> After many decades of service our bottom rudder piton attachment >> failed.We are looking for a source to make or supply.Any leads would be >> appreciated greatly appreciated. TIA.If it matters Boat is in Georgia >> going to Florida.See pics attached for more detail. >> Thanks >> David >> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Replacing Original Boom
I replaced mine for precisely the same reason. It had a track along the bottom which was nice for mounting the vang and mainsheet. I put a 6 part set of blocks inside the back end for the outhaul purchase, works great, no regrets. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 10:58 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Happy New Year Listers. > > I’m contemplating replacing the original boom on my 30 MK I with a new > Selden BS120-03B. This is an outgrowth of my offseason project to replace > sheaves & halyards, add deck organizers and rope clutches to lead lines > aft, etc. > > What attracts me to a new modern boom is being able to run the outhaul and > reef lines through sheaves at its aft end, through the boom, through > sheaves at its forward end, down to turning blocks on the mast at the > collar, then aft via deck organizers to rope clutches. The Selden booms > also have a pretty slick internal single-line reefing system for two reef > points. > > I’ve requested a few quotes and so far the price is less than I feared - > reasonable enough to actually do it. > > Have any of y’all done this before, and have any experience to report? > > Cheers, > Randy Stafford > SV Grenadine > C&C 30 MK I #79 > Ken Caryl, CO > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Cooper Auction
I have checked out Coopers salvage in the past, but never seen an auction this size before! https://www.winknews.com/2022/12/28/hundreds-of-boats-up-for-auction-at-salvage-yard-along-burnt-store-road/ Bill Coleman Erie PA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Wind instrument conundrum
B&G must think the 213 MHU is still good, as they are still making them and charging more for them than their newer units. At least they are repairable - I put new bearings (SS races and ceramic balls) in my old one, and it is still working - -Knock on wood. Bill Coleman On Tue, Dec 20, 2022 at 10:38 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The new B&G WS310 wind instrument is garbage. The one I installed lst > spring lasted 1/2 way to Bermuda, and the replacement is DOA. The B&G > forum is full of similar complaints. > > Joel > > On Tue, Dec 20, 2022 at 10:34 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> From someone who has been through similar anguish with a 22 year old B&G >> system, I would suggest you just sell your soul to B&G and sign your name >> on the check. Either that or go Raymarine before you get into B&G too >> far. . I thought I could upgrade certain things of the B&G on the cheap, >> but it was torture. After trying to convert different things to NMEA 2000 >> with Actisense and B&G converters, I finally just gave in, bought the CPU >> and new autopilot, Zeus, etc. And yes that was painful, but at least now >> things work. Still have the old 213 masthead unit, BTW, and I also have a >> newer one as the spare. There were a couple of electronic boxes that did >> the MHU and Depth conversion from analog to to 0183. then converting that >> to NMEA 2000. It was very confusing. I had an IT Guy help me one day, and >> he was tearing all kinds of wires out and I was about having a heart >> attack, but things still worked. Later, with more tinkering on my part, >> they didn't work correctly. The point is, most of the old wires and boxes >> were not needed. But then I still had trouble. Hence purchasing the 5000 >> CPU and a functioning electronic system. But of course, it didn't all end >> there. Last year I was having trouble with wind direction. A little >> investigation determined a bad connection where the wires terminated at the >> base of the mast, in a cheap terminal block that was actually steel, and >> getting a little rusty. Cleaning all that up brought things back to snuff. >> The signals from these transducers are so tiny, any slightly imperfect >> connection causes bad outcomes. >> >> Bill Coleman >> Entrada Erie PA >> >> On Mon, Dec 19, 2022 at 6:44 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Charlie, >>> >>> >>> >>> I have a similar issue with Calypso’s B&G wind instruments. I have been >>> following several related topics in Sailing Anarchy’s Gear forum where >>> people much more familiar with the IT side of connecting a new sensor to an >>> existing system. I have read much about various attempts to connect >>> different manufacturers equipment through a NMEA backbone. >>> >>> >>> >>> My sense is there may not be an easy or simple solution at least for our >>> 22 year old B&G system. >>> >>> >>> >>> Martin DeYoung >>> >>> Calypso >>> >>> 1971 C&C 43 >>> >>> Port Ludlow/Seattle >>> >>> >>> >>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > > > -- > Joel > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar switch?
Nice diagram, Thank you - Bill Coleman On Tue, Dec 20, 2022 at 10:32 AM Kevin Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi All, > > After some help from the list and DIY solar power forum I’ve created the > attached diagram. Thought I’d post it in case it could be useful to anyone. > Hope everyone has a great Christmas. > > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/65oe21u93i8k6ng/Solar%20Project%20with%20Bluetti%20web.pdf?dl=0 > > Kevin Wright > > Landfall 43 > > Raven > > Midland ON. > > > On Fri, Dec 9, 2022 at 10:10 AM Korbey Hunt wrote: > >> sounds OK. Note the rating on your Victron controller. A 100v/ 30amp >> controller is likely needed for 4 panels. they could generate over 80 >> volts. Your Victron has a switch for different battery types if you change >> system in the future. Also be sure to fuse or use a breaker in the system >> between panels and battery. >> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Wind instrument conundrum
From someone who has been through similar anguish with a 22 year old B&G system, I would suggest you just sell your soul to B&G and sign your name on the check. Either that or go Raymarine before you get into B&G too far. . I thought I could upgrade certain things of the B&G on the cheap, but it was torture. After trying to convert different things to NMEA 2000 with Actisense and B&G converters, I finally just gave in, bought the CPU and new autopilot, Zeus, etc. And yes that was painful, but at least now things work. Still have the old 213 masthead unit, BTW, and I also have a newer one as the spare. There were a couple of electronic boxes that did the MHU and Depth conversion from analog to to 0183. then converting that to NMEA 2000. It was very confusing. I had an IT Guy help me one day, and he was tearing all kinds of wires out and I was about having a heart attack, but things still worked. Later, with more tinkering on my part, they didn't work correctly. The point is, most of the old wires and boxes were not needed. But then I still had trouble. Hence purchasing the 5000 CPU and a functioning electronic system. But of course, it didn't all end there. Last year I was having trouble with wind direction. A little investigation determined a bad connection where the wires terminated at the base of the mast, in a cheap terminal block that was actually steel, and getting a little rusty. Cleaning all that up brought things back to snuff. The signals from these transducers are so tiny, any slightly imperfect connection causes bad outcomes. Bill Coleman Entrada Erie PA On Mon, Dec 19, 2022 at 6:44 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Charlie, > > > > I have a similar issue with Calypso’s B&G wind instruments. I have been > following several related topics in Sailing Anarchy’s Gear forum where > people much more familiar with the IT side of connecting a new sensor to an > existing system. I have read much about various attempts to connect > different manufacturers equipment through a NMEA backbone. > > > > My sense is there may not be an easy or simple solution at least for our > 22 year old B&G system. > > > > Martin DeYoung > > Calypso > > 1971 C&C 43 > > Port Ludlow/Seattle > > > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: CnC 44 mounting genset
Oh! Never mind!! Bill Coleman On Mon, Dec 5, 2022 at 9:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Usually at least 2500-3000 PSI. > > > > Joe > > > > > > > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, December 5, 2022 7:50 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Bill Coleman > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: CnC 44 mounting genset > > > > how much pressure do you need? I've got a compressor on mine but it only > makes 100 lb. But it is 12 volts. > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie PA > > > > On Sun, Dec 4, 2022, 22:16 David NCW via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thx i need to run a dive compressor > > > > On Sun, Dec 4, 2022, 6:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > You may want to expand your list to the C&C Landfall 43. They had > generators as a factory option, so they definitely have room. > > You also may want to think about if you need a genset at all. With modern > charging, solar, and battery systems, the only real need for one now is air > conditioning when on the hook. > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > > > > > > > *From:* David NCW via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, December 3, 2022 8:17 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* David NCW > *Subject:* Stus-List CnC 44 mounting genset > > > > Hi my first post, I hope it is to the right place. I really like the CnC > 44. Is on the short list of my retirement boat candidates. Is there a > good spot to mount a small diesel Genset? > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Dave > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Bill Coleman > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Bill Coleman > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help.
Stus-List Re: CnC 44 mounting genset
how much pressure do you need? I've got a compressor on mine but it only makes 100 lb. But it is 12 volts. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Sun, Dec 4, 2022, 22:16 David NCW via CnC-List wrote: > Thx i need to run a dive compressor > > On Sun, Dec 4, 2022, 6:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> You may want to expand your list to the C&C Landfall 43. They had >> generators as a factory option, so they definitely have room. >> >> You also may want to think about if you need a genset at all. With modern >> charging, solar, and battery systems, the only real need for one now is air >> conditioning when on the hook. >> >> >> >> >> >> Joe Della Barba >> >> Coquina C&C 35 MK I >> >> Kent Island MD USA >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* David NCW via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Saturday, December 3, 2022 8:17 PM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* David NCW >> *Subject:* Stus-List CnC 44 mounting genset >> >> >> >> Hi my first post, I hope it is to the right place. I really like the CnC >> 44. Is on the short list of my retirement boat candidates. Is there a >> good spot to mount a small diesel Genset? >> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a >> contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Dave > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Bill Coleman Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help.
Stus-List Re: Winches in use for dip pole jibes.
Or just go the Asymmetric route. I went from two sheets and two guys, to one neutral with Twingers, to Asymmetric. Too many strings confuse me. Bill Coleman On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 5:22 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Great info and from someone who knows about dip pole or other kite > maneuvers! > > If the after guard, including the trimmers, are paying attention the > appropriate sheets and guys are in their proper places, just displaced from > each other fore and aft as my tactician prefers. > > I am now convinced that the sheets and guys will be in their proper places > after the kite is hoisted and doused as described for port rounding—thus > there is not likely that keeping the guys forward and sheets aft will be > significantly slower than having them paired athwartship. > > Thanks for your reply—it has converted me!! > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > > Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS > <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> > > On Thursday, December 1, 2022, 3:34 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I have been doing dip pole gybes for forty + years. My primary winches are > forward on the coaming and secondaries are aft (like yours). The primaries > are always used for the guys and the genoa sheets and the secondaries are > always used for the spinnaker sheets. Since you are rounding the windward > mark on starboard tack, the genoa sheet is on the port primary, and the > starboard primary is free to use for the spinnaker guy. When you round the > leeward mark on starboard tack, the port primary is free to use for the > genoa sheet. As soon as you round at either the windward or leeward mark, > the port primary is free if you want to tack or gybe. If you use a > spinnaker staysail, the primary is used for the staysail sheet, after the > genoa is dropped or furled. Try this the next time you're out and you'll > see how simple it is. > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > > > On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 11:42 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > My tactician and I have a friendly disagreement on which winches to use > when doing dip pole jibes with lazy sheets and 'guys' on my masthead rig > C&C 36 XL/kcb: > > On Water Phantom, I have moved the initial primary winches (Lewmar ST 50s) > forward on the cockpit coaming and added another secondary winch pair > (Lewmar ST 44s) at the aft end of the cockpit coaming. Thus my secondaries > are hardly secondary in strength and power ratios, etc. > > All our races have port roundings and most are W-L. Thus we are on > starboard tack at either the windward or leeward mark. I am no expert on > dip-pole jibes but as I thought thru the sequence of events at the turning > mark on starboard tack, it seemed intuitive to me to rig the kite with a > starboard pole always (we never do jib sets!), using the aft secondary > winches for both the sheet and the guy on the kite. This leaves the forward > primary winches committed to the headsail as we make the turn at the mark. > > After the turn, the primary winches can be cleared of the headsail sheets > and the other set of kite lines (sheet and guy) can be rigged on these > primary winches. When it comes time to jibe, the aft secondary kite lines > become lazy and the trimmers use the primary winches--note the primary and > secondary winches are only about 2 feet apart. For the next jibe, the > trimmers move to the aft secondary winches and so on... > > At the leeward mark, always on starboard for port roundings, the kite is > back to being controlled by the aft secondaries (as at the windward > mark) and the forward primaries can be loaded with the headsail sheets in > anticipation of the beat to windward just as they were positioned at the > windward mark. I like this symmetry (but then I am mostly a left-hander!) > and think it involves less line switching, less time and might be faster > than using a forward set of winches for both guys, etc. > > OTOH, my tactician races mainly in a one design Beneteau 41S fleet in > Chicago where the primary forward winches have both guys on them, the aft > secondary winches are used for both sheets always. (I think this is because > the secondaries might be pretty small on the 41S and they and/or the crew > may not be able to handle the guys on the secondary aft winches). > > Since I have no problem with using Lewmar 44s as primary winches, I have > the option to do the winches ala the Chicago way or the Water Phantom way. > Before I commit to having the crew learn how to do these winch swaps as we >
Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.
I used a trucker called Middle River Marine, I was happy with him. I think he is based in the Annapolis area. You will do best with flexibility, as in allowing a back haul. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie PA On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 2:15 PM david coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello all, > First time user here.Who has experienced a good boat transport > company.Looking for names .Also any good names of riggers that service Port > Charlotte Fl area?Thanks for the help. > David > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Bill Coleman Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help.
Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires
IIRC, wasn't someone just looking for a marina in this area? And also, was this the marina that everybody was saying was really bad? Bill Coleman Entrada, ERI PA On Mon, Nov 28, 2022, 12:12 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > I can’t say I am terribly saddened. Seaport Marina is the worst marina I > have ever kept my boat at for the winter. Bent my stanchions, scraped my > paint, power never worked in yard, water never worked, claimed they were > going to work on my transmission and never did. I was there one winter and > never went back. Across the river at Ft. Rachel marina had the opposite > experience. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Nov 28, 2022, at 7:02 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Not Mystic Seaport: > > Seaport Marine is across the Mystic River from downtown Mystic. Seaport > Marine is at 2 Washington St. and has a waterfront restaurant, Red 36, and > a retail store, Fighting Lady Tackle Co., according to its website. > > Prestige Yacht Sales, which is also located at 2 Washington St., was among > the businesses consumed by the fire, Manfredi said. > > On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 1:40 PM David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> As did I…what fire at the Seaport? >> >> >> >> *From:* Richard Bush via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Monday, November 28, 2022 10:46 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* johnmcc...@comcast.net; Richard Bush >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires >> >> >> >> John, what would cause something like that "open neutral" to happen so >> suddenly? >> >> I was able to attend the 2012 C&C rendezvous at Mystic and thoroughly >> enjoyed it! >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> Richard >> >> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; >> >> >> >> Richard N. Bush Law Offices >> >> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine >> >> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 >> >> 502-584-7255 >> >> >> >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: John McCrea via CnC-List >> To: 'Stus-List' >> Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net >> Sent: Mon, Nov 28, 2022 10:39 am >> Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires >> >> I was at the Mystic one last night. I live about a mile from downtown and >> my boat is right across the river from Seaport Marine. When the explosions >> started happening we rushed down. It was caused by an open neutral on the >> power feed from the building to shore power to the boats in the water. It >> was blowing hard as well and we were lucky to not lose more than we did. >> >> >> >> John McCrea >> >> *Talisman* >> >> 1979 36-1 >> >> Mystic, CT >> >> >> >> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Monday, November 28, 2022 10:30 AM >> *To:* CnClist >> *Cc:* Dennis C. >> *Subject:* Stus-List Marina/boatyard fires >> >> >> >> Couple of boatyard fires lately. Seaport Marine in Mystic, CT and >> Seabrook Marine in New Orleans. Tough news. >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> >> Mandeville, LA >> >> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a >> contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C4630155a11234cb42b7608dad157d254%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638052472373721841%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=AZ4rGDVCapYiDLm6%2Fp2J0D5%2Bf1sturaLzayo5dngN30%3D&reserved=0> >> Thanks for your help. >> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a >> contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Joel >> > > > -- > Joel > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > David Knecht > > > Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a > contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Bill Coleman Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help.
Stus-List Re: charger/inverter
Heart, now Xantrex seems to dominate as far as I know. I have had one of each, worked fine. The older ones were not true Sine Wave, which meant that you had to run your microwave about twice as long as at the dock. I think they are all now true sine wave, at least that is what I would want. I think, as I have no experience with those. There, that comment was worth about what you paid for it. Bill Coleman Snowy Erie PA On Fri, Nov 18, 2022 at 10:39 AM pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering > charger/inverter with lithium batt capabilities. > > > > There are lots of manufacturers out there. Can anyone provide reliable > resources to review or recommendations? > > > > Thanks, >
