Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Unfortunate you had problems with Raymarine support.

RK


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 9, 2015, at 09:30, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
wrote:

Rich –
The SPX-30.  Ray tech support has it - Not repairable, but is replaceable.   
It’s not worth going into detail on dealing with tech support to get to this 
conclusion, but it wasn’t great.  However, congratulations on your whack of 
systems with few problems.
 
I don’t have any hydraulics – AP ram or other, so it doesn’t apply to me and I 
didn’t intend to infer it would work with all systems, if that’s your point.  
Because it doesn’t apply doesn’t mean it should be discounted either.  It is 
clever engineering.  
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations
 
Pete:
 
Out of curiosity, what “died” in your Raymarine system? I have owned and 
installed a whack of these systems and have had very few problems over the 
years. 
 
Also, unless I’m suffering more than usual today, the Garmin Shadow Drive will 
only work when installed in the line from a helm pump in a fully hydraulic 
steering system. It will not work on a cable driven system such as that found 
in most C&C sail boats. Nice idea, but….
 
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!




 
On Oct 9, 2015, at 06:56, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.
 
I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.
 
#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 
 
My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 
 
The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 
 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
 








 



 
___
 
Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Pete:

Out of curiosity, what “died” in your Raymarine system? I have owned and 
installed a whack of these systems and have had very few problems over the 
years. 

Also, unless I’m suffering more than usual today, the Garmin Shadow Drive will 
only work when installed in the line from a helm pump in a fully hydraulic 
steering system. It will not work on a cable driven system such as that found 
in most C&C sail boats. Nice idea, but….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 9, 2015, at 06:56, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
wrote:

Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.
 
I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.
 
#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 
 
My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 
 
The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 
 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 








 


 
___
 
Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Bob! You rascal!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 6, 2015, at 09:03, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

I agree.I just bought this one:

http://sunnybrookyachts.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=2761870&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=syb&&ywo=syb&;
 


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-06 12:45 PM, jim schwartz via CnC-List wrote:
> buy a new boat!  a c&c owner shouldn't fool around with such small items.
> jim
> sea yea!
> 38 landfall
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Angle grinder. Or call Phil Wash.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 5, 2015, at 17:24, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt on my 
bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be able to 
come apart should it need to.

I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a product 
is not the answer.   I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can 
grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it further and giving 
my right hand a palm blister.

I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and the SS 
tubing but it is going to be a challenge.

The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a wrench 
on it with any force doesn't work either.  I can't turn the bolt and I can't 
turn the nut.  I could simply ignore the problem for now but someday I have to 
get this opened so I might as well not ignore the problem now.

Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bilge pump

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I suggest checking out this website for some realistic information about bilge 
pumps and their effectiveness:

http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/how-to-specify-the-right-bilge-pump-for-your-vessel.htm

There are many other sites with similar information.

It bears out my thought that the best bilge pump is a frightened man with a 
bucket.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless and pumpless.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 4, 2015, at 17:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe bigger, 
pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the primary.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our bilge 
pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump doesn’t fit 
right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help would be 
appreciated.
 
Cheers
Harald
 
www.davenportcatering.com 
519-746-0152 
519-574-1058  (cell)
25 Years of Great Food Service!
 
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Geezly big mean white bears.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 28, 2015, at 21:41, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

Maybe.  What are Polars?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Does anyone have a set of 37+ polars they want to share?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 +
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

You weakening Edd? Take the money and buy beer!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 27, 2015, at 06:10, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

Was at the Norwalk Boat Show yesterday and there was a bow thruster company 
there which had a product that looked interesting. It was a bow thruster "pod" 
that mounts under the hull (as opposed to a tunnel thruster that goes through 
the hull). 

Easier install, can run 5 minutes nonstop without overheating, wireless 
control, etc. 

Is anyone using one of these types? Any disadvantages? I guess my biggest 
concern is the drag factor -- will it cost me a half knot or more? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&c 30 main halyard size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

 There’s no reason not to splice a fancy new low-stretch rope halyard to an 
easy-to-handle rope tail that will not slip in the rope clutch.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 19, 2015, at 12:08, Scott via CnC-List  wrote:

This fall one of my projects will be to replace worn out sheaves at the base of 
the mast ,
Pull the upper pulley at the masthead and machine in a bronze bushing. It still 
has wire to rope halyard and am either going to replace with a new one or 
change out to all rope. My question is what size has anyone used on a c&c 30 
mki (1972). I know all rope is the go to choice nowadays but I like the feel of 
the larger diameter rope end of the wire to rope. Thanks in advance for any 
insight or experience , Scott


Sent from my iPad
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bronze Steering Quadrant

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Good to hear. See you soon.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 19, 2015, at 20:28, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Rich,

I'll check Salerosa's r/stock diameter tomorrow and let you know.

Back in Nanaimo after our too long road trip.

Cheers, Russ

At 05:50 PM 19/09/2015, you wrote:
> During the fall cleanup at work, we have unearthed a brand new 10” radius 
> bronze steering quadrant machined with keyway to fit a 2 ½” rudder post. 
> It is similar in appearance to that shown 
> athttp://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm 
> . It is not an Edson. It 
> had “C&C 41” written in felt marker on it and I presume someone ordered 
> it some time ago and failed to pick it up. If it’s of any use to someone, 
> any offer over $200 plus shipping will get it. A bit of work with a saw would 
> turn it into a very nice steering arm for a below decks autopilot ram.
> 
> Pictures available upon request
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Still Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Bronze Steering Quadrant

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

During the fall cleanup at work, we have unearthed a brand new 10” radius 
bronze steering quadrant machined with keyway to fit a 2 ½” rudder post. It is 
similar in appearance to that shown at 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm. It is not an Edson. It had 
“C&C 41” written in felt marker on it and I presume someone ordered it some 
time ago and failed to pick it up. If it’s of any use to someone, any offer 
over $200 plus shipping will get it. A bit of work with a saw would turn it 
into a very nice steering arm for a below decks autopilot ram.

Pictures available upon request

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Still Boatless!









Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I simply didn’t understand your point.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 6, 2015, at 14:06, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Rich,

Are you suggesting that if a 30 year old boat hasn't blistered yet, that it is 
likely to?  My thoughts/statements were twofold, assess exactly what Danny 
meant by needing a bottom job and advise that if multiple layers of bottom 
paint is the only concern that he could probably get away with 
sand/feather/paint.  It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what type of bottom 
is there right now but whatever it is it certainly seems to be working.

Josh

On Sep 6, 2015 4:39 PM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating.

Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be 
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and bottom 
rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you have to wait a 
year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell you that my 
recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual spring 
cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating.

Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be 
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and bottom 
rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you have to wait a 
year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell you that my 
recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual spring 
cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Well said Martin! Totally agree. I find surveyors and insurance companies are 
frequently misreading minor signs of advancing age and jumping to incorrect 
conclusions about the viability of older boats. 

It’s about the same as if a person were to be rejected for general purpose, 
moderate duty employment because he had a few wrinkles.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 31, 2015, at 17:55, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Those boats were very well built and core wetness can be easily misread and 
> misreported.<
 
I have looked closely at balsa core that was damp, wet, and rotten (failed).  I 
would not be concerned with a racer/cruiser C&C with damp core here and there.  
For me, damp means the balsa still looks tan in color and smells like balsa or 
polyester resin.  (It is easy to assess the color and smell of the balsa by 
pulling some hardware mounting bolts in the area of concern.)  Unless heading 
out on a adventurous offshore voyage I would not recommend making repairs 
beyond re-bedding the deck hardware.  Tapping around with a hammer, mildly damp 
core will sound much like dry core unless delamination has occurred. IIRC 
Baltek’s study of wet core failures found 80% of the structure’s strength is 
retained up to 30% water gain.
 
If the balsa core is wet enough for the tea colored stain to be visible around 
fittings and mounting bolts, especially near high load areas I would 
investigate enough to be confident on how wet the balsa is and the limits or 
the wet area.  If the wet core area is in the immediate area of a fitting, for 
example under a halyard block, I would make a limited repair in that area.  
When tapping with a hammer, wet to very wet core will start to sound slightly 
dull when compared to a known dry area.
 
If fully failed core is found, extensive repairs may be called for.  On Calypso 
the fully failed core we found stank like a swamp polluted with polyester resin 
which looked black and was often completely broken down by some sort of acidic 
chemical reaction. When tapped with a hammer the fully rotted/failed areas will 
sound hollow and dull.  Often there will be signs or failure like the dark tea 
colored stains, corroded aluminum backing plates, and distorted inner skin.
 
For those boat owners with good DIY skills repairing limited core issues is 
messy but not difficult.  Over on Sailing Anarchy – Fixit Forum there is a 
great topic underway titled “Ericson 32 mast step repair” that covers, with 
pictures, replacing a failed plywood area under a deck stepped mast.  The 
process discussed would work great for balsa repairs and is similar in concept 
to what I have done repairing failed plywood and balsa around Calypso’s mast 
collar.  I chose to work from below as the inner skin is significantly thinner 
than the outer skin.  As Calypso’s race oriented interior is “stick” built we 
have good access to most of the damaged areas.
 
Based on a quick look at the listing, if I was in the market for a LF 38 I 
would not be frightened off by a moderate amount of wet core but I would do my 
own inspection and tapping about with a hammer.
 
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2015 11:53 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38
 
I’d want a second opinion on the degree of water intrusion. I suggest most 
1980’s Landfalls and other cored boats have some areas of less than perfect 
lamination and core wetness but soldier on just fine, thank you.
 
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless ex Landfall 38 owner.

 
On Aug 31, 2015, at 10:20, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M
 
<http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M>
 
I have no clue if this is a good deal or $19,000 too much. I am guessing the 
owner got a big surprise at sale time.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I’d want a second opinion on the degree of water intrusion. Those boats were 
very well built and core wetness can be easily misread and misreported. I 
suggest most 1980’s Landfalls and other cored boats have some areas of less 
than perfect lamination and core wetness but soldier on just fine, thank you.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless ex Landfall 38 owner.





On Aug 31, 2015, at 10:20, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M
 

 
I have no clue if this is a good deal or $19,000 too much. I am guessing the 
owner got a big surprise at sale time.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Anyone got a strobe at the masthead? 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 24, 2015, at 11:33, David via CnC-List  wrote:

Got it...we are blessed with an elevated level of power and sail expertise up 
here in Buzzards Bay.   

But like you said.   When I head West into LIS.   Whoa.   All light 
configuration bets are off and there is traffic of all sorts...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 13:57:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
CC: colt...@verizon.net 

Agreed, but for our night races there are never more than a few other boats not 
racing, which would be weekend warriors that I am sure don’t even know anything 
beyond red and green anyways. Very little commercial traffic, not like LIS. 
But you are correct, it is not kosher. I don’t think anyone would be running 
around with anchor lights where you sail, where it could easily be confused 
with barge traffic or whatever.  What really confuses things is when some guys 
light their steaming lights so they can see their teltales. 
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2015 1:27 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...
 
I beg to differ.

Anchor light being used to light a windex is confusing and against the regs.   
Windex makes a light for that purpose.

A tricolor (with no deck lights) also lights the windex within the lighting 
regs.

What about boats not in your fleet?

Lights have meaning.

Forgive my push back on this but I have been part of too many situations where 
these seemingly innocent configurations have or could have had consequences.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 11:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
CC: colt...@verizon.net 
We also use them on Night races to light the Windex. As long as you know 
everyone in the fleet is using them for that purpose it is not confusing.  I 
don’t know what other boats think, but there are usually not too many of them.
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39  Erie, PA
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2015 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
 
some people use the anchor light to light the windex.  You can buy a light that 
sits on top of the mast and shines up for that purpose.  I'm waiting for the 
solar powered version!
 
I find it hard to judge distance from boats use a masthead light.  Maybe that's 
just me.
 
Joel
 
On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:00 AM, David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yup, I have seen all color combination to and for Bermuda as well...
Anchor lights with Tricolor...
Tricolor with deck level nav lights...
Steaming light with tri-color...
Nav lights with no steaming light (when under power)

Wrong. wrong Wrong.  

Very confusing when two fleets encounter each another at 2:00am (which happens 
surprisingly often).


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:27:57 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
CC: russ...@telus.net 


Exactly right Dennis.

And if motoring, burning three or four lamps is usually not a problem. Hence 
the desire to go LED for a masthead tri-light and the practicality of keeping 
lower lights as incandescent.

You might be astonished at the number of our American cousins who race around 
here at night burning every navigation lamp they can, masthead tri-colour, 
forward steaming, red, green and after steaming light. Very common on the 
overnight races.

Cheers, Russ


At 09:01 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
If you are motoring, you should not use the tricolor at the masthead.  The 
steaming light must be above the red/green nav lights.  Therefore you must use 
the deck or hull mounted nav lights when motoring.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Kurt,
Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the masthead but it is practical in that, 
when sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower lights and one lamp can 
draw a lot less power than three or four lamps. 
Note, if you are motoring then you still need the forward steaming light, etc. 
Rule 25

Re: Stus-List vang, C&C 35 Mk II

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Ham and cheese works especially well…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 23, 2015, at 10:18, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just use a snack block to your toe-rail when you ned a little down-wing vang.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

That’s so the deadheads and logs can see them coming.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 22, 2015, at 22:27, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:


Exactly right Dennis.

And if motoring, burning three or four lamps is usually not a problem. Hence 
the desire to go LED for a masthead tri-light and the practicality of keeping 
lower lights as incandescent.

You might be astonished at the number of our American cousins who race around 
here at night burning every navigation lamp they can, masthead tri-colour, 
forward steaming, red, green and after steaming light. Very common on the 
overnight races.

Cheers, Russ


At 09:01 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
> If you are motoring, you should not use the tricolor at the masthead.  The 
> steaming light must be above the red/green nav lights.  Therefore you must 
> use the deck or hull mounted nav lights when motoring.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Kurt,
> 
> Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the masthead but it is practical in 
> that, when sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower lights and one lamp 
> can draw a lot less power than three or four lamps. 
> 
> Note, if you are motoring then you still need the forward steaming light, 
> etc. 
> 
> Rule 25 (around page 80) if you're interested. 
> 
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf
> 
> 
>  
> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Cheers, Russ
> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35-1
> 
> 
> At 04:50 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
>> Is there a reason every one is using tri colors at the mast head? Is this in 
>> addition to the regular side lights and stern light
>> 
>> 
>> From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List > >; 
>> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >; 
>> Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard > >; > >; 
>> Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED? 
>> Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2015 5:10:19 PM 
>> 
>> Hello Alex, 
>> 
>> I am replacing the cabin lights with this one from Marinebeam: 
>> http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ 
>>  
>> It’s just bright enough.  I tried the 18 and 2d 21 led models too.  
>> They’re a bit much.. The 18 is googood as a reading light, the 21 is the 
>> master blaster at the chart table. 
>> 
>> My sternlight burned-out about a month ago.   I did not bother looking for 
>> a replacement bulb at Marinebeam.. 
>> 
>> I bought this for 16 bucks instead 
>> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My original fixture’s lens s was all crazed and the housing was getting 
>> brittle…>>   Now itÃ’s all l fresh and nnew.  It’s well done too 
>> watertight ht with O-rings and extremely bright as it is a 12 led array. 
>> 
>> For the tricolor I splurged a little.. 
>> 
>> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It‬™s a bit pricey but it’s the cat’s a$$.  Sup.  Super bright, 
>> high quality machined metal housing, no interference with the VHF, automatic 
>> anchor light, and a killer white light illuminating the Windex.  You get 
>> what you pay for I guess..  
>> 
>> I also have a remote control battery powered LED bar light for the engine 
>> compartment.  It's about 20 bucks at Walmart. It's a peel and stick 
>> installation and the light switch is also peel and stick.  No wiring. 
>> Simple and perfect for the engine compartment, the remote switch is nice.  
>> I am planning on buying more of those
>> 
>> http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=21827156&placement_id=irs-106-t1&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id&category=&client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0&customer_id_enc&config_id=106&parent_item_id=16561412&parent_anchor_item_id=16561412&guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4&bucket_id=irsbucket003&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
__

Re: Stus-List Anchor roller

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Although I’m not a great fan of having any more components than absolutely 
needed in an anchor rode, a swivel installed between the chain and anchor can 
ensure the anchor can rotate and more easily traverse the roller than a 
shackle. Locktite is a good thing to use when installing a swivel.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Aug 17, 2015, at 21:09, svpegasu...@gmail.com  
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets 
hing up on the bow roller fitting. 

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
Cc: dwight veinot;
Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller

I hope you seized all the shackles

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. 
I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going 
nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. 
Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have 
had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very 
protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my 
anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. 

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved!

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

As I wrote some time back:

One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more 
multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there 
for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to 
lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive 
resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting.

I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting 
or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, 
pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off 
the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. I am an 
advocate of removing the connectors completely and replacing them by cutting 
each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire and rejoining them using 
appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt connectors. This will 
generally solve the immediate problem and also help reduce further corrosion 
related problems.

In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion 
of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with 
good quality marine grade tinned  wire will help ensure trouble free operation.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:08, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some 
> electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the 
> connector. 


 The normal substance to use would be a dielectric grease, not a conductive 
grease,
though at the 12 volt range that property does not come in to play much.

Some interesting reading on the topic:

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Note that even the best grease, correctly applied at the contact point, will
not solve the problem of the wires just back of the connection corroding.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2015 00:06:43 -0500 
From: Josh Muckley  
To: "C&C List"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved! 
Message-ID: 
 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

Thanks for letting us know what you found.  I'm still curious to know if 
you have a glo-plug solenoid. 

If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone 
dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts 
store and is a good alternative. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
wrote: 

> I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel.  I was able to 
> get the connector in the engine compartment apart today.  Two of the pins 
> were particularly black and all looked corroded.  I cleaned them all and 
> put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons 
> held down.  So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source 
> of the problem.  It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off 
> and a problem is solved.  Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! 
> 
> Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some 
> electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the 
> connector.  I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the 
> grease seems like a good option to retain good contact.  Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> Aries 
> 1990 C&C 34+ 
> New London, CT 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Nuttin’ to sail, so I’ll chuck my two cents in.

You are correct, Fred. I ran my old Furuno CRT radar for 18 years, and it’s 
still going strong with the new owner, never let me down, and never tried to 
jump overboard as phones and pads sometimes do. I find that laptops are 
excessive power consumers and, counting the cost of software, are often more 
expensive that a decent purpose-built plotter and far more fragile when the 
duct tape wears out and they fall on the cabin or cockpit sole.

Gadgets are great, but take care and feeding.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC

Boatless!


On Aug 11, 2015, at 08:18, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Not too many listers chiming in on this topic.  Anyone?  Is everyone else out 
sailing?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



> On Aug 10, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> John — like most Furuno gear, I imagine the black-box radar is pretty 
> reliable.  My concern is with the other gear needed to use it.  If you’re 
> going to spend that much on buying and installing a system, you want it to 
> work when you need it.  And that’s generally when conditions are bad; which 
> is also when the consumer stuff (laptop, iPad, etc) is going to fail.  Then 
> your investment is worthless.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2015, at 9:07 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Any thoughts on the reliability of the Furuno unit itself?  It's a bit of an 
>> oddity but has been on the market for a while.  Radar is not a critical 
>> function to me (except when it is) but I view this more of an offshore tool 
>> than anything else.  Just my opinion which I'm sure most would disagree with.

> On August 9, 2015 at 4:47 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> 

> 

> Hi, John.  No, you’re not crazy; just be careful with mixing and matching 
> equipment from different vendors.  And as long as you’re putting in modern 
> electronics, there’s no reason I can think of to NOT integrate all of them 
> together; you get benefits like autopilot steering to wind angle or to 
> waypoints; and the ability to repeat GPS, wind, depth and other data out to 
> WiFi if you’re so equipped.  And as far as not having a knot meter, that 
> means you lose the ability to correlate the GPS and boat data to determine if 
> you’re dealing with current set and drift, which can be very helpful.

> 

> Only you know what you’d really like to have; but I would at minimum do a 
> full instrument install, and my preference would be for the i70 Sail Pack 
> system if you’re looking at Raymarine.

> 

> If you go with the Furuno black box radar, you’re completely blind if your 
> iPad dies.  I’m a fan of having dedicated marine electronics for functions 
> you consider critical; if radar falls into that category, I’d think twice 
> about that setup.

> 

> If the current B&G autopilot system works well, there’s no reason to replace 
> it; if it takes NMEA0183 data in, I’d definitely convert that from NMEA2000 
> so it can talk with other gear as mentioned above.

> 

> If you’d like AIS receive only, consider putting in a VHF radio like the 
> Standard Horizon GX2200, which has separate AIS receivers built in, and can 
> pass that info on to other equipment.  If you’d like to be seen as well, 
> there are a bunch of choices in AIS Class B transponders; I’d recommend one 
> after you nail down the rest of the equipment, so it plays well with 
> everything else.

> 

> And finally, chartplotters.  I can see no reason to put in a Raymarine GPS 
> receiver just to give GPS to other gear.  If you’re NOT going to do a plotter 
> (see notes about reliability of iPad and radar…), putting in an AIS-enabled 
> VHF can get you position data just as well.  I’d suggest, though, that you 
> look at the new small MFDs that Simrad, B&G, Raymarine and Garmin have out.  
> Under $1000, and you can attach radar, AIS, instruments, etc to get a fully 
> marine-capable system that runs off your boat’s batteries (no limited iPad 
> battery life, which ALWAYS seems to fail when you need it most…).

> 

> I’ll be interested to see what others recommend.

> 

> Fred Street -- Minneapolis

> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> 

>> On Aug 9, 2015, at 4:30 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List > > wrote:

>> 

>> The basic electronics (b&g h1000 system) on Paws have been a challenge since 
>> I first got her.  Intermittent failures at the start of each season.  Now 
>> depth has failed and of all things it appears to be the transducer.  I'm 
>> debating modernizing.  Please tell me if I'm crazy.  A little background:

>> 

>> Close hauled wind indicator is important to me (which I currently don't have)

>> The autopilot (B&G) is a thing of beauty and will be

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Measuring voltage can be misleading unless the voltage is measured when the 
circuit being measured is under load. Digital voltmeters require very little 
power to read voltage and, even with lots of resistance in an unloaded circuit 
under test can indicate full expected voltage. Once the normal load on the 
circuit is applied, the voltage will drop to indicate the true voltage at the 
load.

One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more 
multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there 
for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to 
lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive 
resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting.

I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting 
or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, 
pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off 
the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. If that 
resolves the problem, I am an advocate of removing the connectors completely 
and replacing them by cutting each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire 
and rejoining them using appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt 
connectors. This will generally solve the immediate problem and also help 
reduce further corrosion related problems.

In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion 
of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with 
good quality marine grade tinned  wire will help ensure trouble free operation.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless but rolling in beer!





On Aug 10, 2015, at 20:15, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not 
start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. 
 The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then 
while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button.  When I do 
that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and 
push the start button the engine starts fine.  My father (retired electrical 
engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent 
some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting 
things:

1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We then 
tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid 
when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.  So that probably 
explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same 
time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid.  I will pull the 
starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative 
suggestion.

2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from 
the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other 
lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running from the 
downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be 
energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes).  If 
that were the case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the 
start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the engine.  Tracing the wires, we 
found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug 
switch, so that either button will work independently as both are always 
powered.  What I don’t understand is why you would wire it the other way (as 
the manual shows) since that would remove the ability to start the engine 
without the glow plugs (as in an already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO 
or some yard mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong in the 
manual, so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is 
actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am 
missing something.

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike:

Did you check the oil level after the alarm sounded? It could be low after a 
period of little use followed by motoring for a few hours. At higher RPM’s, the 
oil might fall below the pickup as more oil is pumped to the head than returns 
to the pan. I hope it is simple…..

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Aug 10, 2015, at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2
 
Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)
 
At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.
 
A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.
 
Any thoughts? 
 
Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It’s just like a blown muffler on your car. You need a bigger stereo.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 31, 2015, at 19:26, Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:

On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam Bay and had a strange problem. At 
a certain wind speed, the shrouds would start to hum, sometimes making the boat 
shake with vibration. The major vibration was felt in the small rod running to 
the underside of the upper spreaders and in the mast and backstay.  I backed 
each shroud one off half a turn and it really didn't do much except make those 
shrouds look loose to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the difference of 1/128th 
of an inch. It eventually faded as the wind dropped. 
For the next ten days, in all sorts of conditions, we didn't hear it, but when 
we anchored in the same bay 10 days later, we got it again. 
Any explanation except witchcraft?
 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Intimidating Music (hee hee)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Geez, John, sorry you took this seriously. I didn’t. I knew everyone on board 
the committee boat, all talented volunteers, and frequently was on board 
myself. There is always room for a chuckle in my life and they gave me a good 
one that day. And Moosehead should only be given to folks you really don’t like 
very much:)

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On Jul 20, 2015, at 18:42, John Pennie via CnC-List  
wrote:

Really not a funny story.  I’ve served on enough race committees that took 
their work seriously and were respected for it.  No place for that, even in 
jest. It just shouldn’t happen.  Right up there with the Kazoos at the 
Manhattan club.  it sounds funny but just isn’t professional.

Send them a 6 pack of Moosehead.

John

> On Jul 16, 2015, at 9:00 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> I got told by the RC at the end of a race in Montreal as I passed the finish 
> line “If we knew you were racing, we would have brought a calendar.” 
> 
> No respect at all.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 15, 2015, at 17:54, mike amirault via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> I prefer to say nothing at the start; just smile and wave. A few years ago, 
> when I was racing my Mirage 25 boat for boat against another Mirage 25, a 
> young chap yelled over that they were gonna "kick my ass". After the race was 
> over and they were beaten by about 20 min. they sailed past my mooring. I 
> yelled over "hey Matt, I tried to hail you on the VHF but you must have been 
> out of range, then I tried your cell but the recording said I would have to 
> pay long distance charges"
> He was quiter next race. MUCH quieter. ;)
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Intimidating Music (hee hee)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I got told by the RC at the end of a race in Montreal as I passed the finish 
line “If we knew you were racing, we would have brought a calendar.” 

No respect at all.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 15, 2015, at 17:54, mike amirault via CnC-List  
wrote:

I prefer to say nothing at the start; just smile and wave. A few years ago, 
when I was racing my Mirage 25 boat for boat against another Mirage 25, a young 
chap yelled over that they were gonna "kick my ass". After the race was over 
and they were beaten by about 20 min. they sailed past my mooring. I yelled 
over "hey Matt, I tried to hail you on the VHF but you must have been out of 
range, then I tried your cell but the recording said I would have to pay long 
distance charges"
He was quiter next race. MUCH quieter. ;)
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cruisin' Music

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Very tasteful…. Geesh!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 13, 2015, at 11:23, Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avaSdC0QOUM 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Jul 13, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Toots & the Maytals.  
> 
> There's no accounting for taste or mood. As a general rule I listen to 
> everything. In practice I primarily listen to old 60s reggae, ska, and rock n 
> roll (old and new). I have no more time or energy for 'easy listening' or 
> anything depressing (classical != easy listening). Happy music only please. 
> Bob Marley gets a lot of playtime both on and off the boat. Legend is the 
> worst Bob Marley album.
> 
> There is so much good music out there how can you settle on any one thing?
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Now, girls…!!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Jul 1, 2015, at 15:24, S Thomas via CnC-List  wrote:

You really ought to become better informed yourself before you go shooting your 
mouth off about killing people. You obviously know very little about these 
chemicals, chemistry in general, or proportions or common usage yourself, or 
you wouldn't make such ridiculous and offensive comments about other sailors on 
this list. 
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
> - Original Message - 
> From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Kevin Driscoll  ; Jean-Francois J Rivard 
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
> 
> Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
> sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
> biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
> EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
> protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
> questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.
> Kevin
> 30-2
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I totally concur.. 
>> You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
>> the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from 
>> the factory.  
>> BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
>> we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long 
>> yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 
>> bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently 
>> show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and 
>> my old bedsheet sails. :-)
>> -Francois
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
>> From: Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
>> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > >
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> <1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
>> >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> I think any drug like " tetracycline" will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
>> but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
>> wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion 
>> and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in "Round 
>> Up" and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off 
>> during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting 
>> as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the 
>> directions. 
>> I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
>> close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 
>> I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
>> got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead 
>> of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better 
>> paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling 
>> looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to 
>> their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck 
>> brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and 
>> Fresh Water requires "Micron Extra" I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
>> paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. 
>> They are multi season hard abatives. 
>> Chuck 
>> Resolute 
>> 1990 C&C 34R 
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
>> Regards
>> François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>> > src="https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=8d5d5ecb01&attid=0.0.1&th=14e49f48daac7062&view=fimg&rm=14e49f48daac7062&sz=w1600-h1000&attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeo&disp=emb&zw
>>  
>> 

Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Scotch does that to me, but it takes more than one spritz in each gill….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On Jun 18, 2015, at 18:33, Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:

We used a cedar plug trailing on a heavy mono line joined to surgical tubing 
coming back from Hawaii last year, got a nice mahi and a nice albacore within 
minutes. A spray bottle of vodka dispatched them amazingly quickly. One shot 
into each gill and that was that. 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ecj52bdEiCo/VGP0OQZFptI/Cts/31i7niiJYkM/w1238-h820-no/DSC_9432.jpg
 

 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal M-35 Water Heater Hose Size?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Beats a cold shower!

Rich.







On Jun 8, 2015, at 17:59, Russ & Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Why are you heating hot water?


At 08:40 AM 08/06/2015, you wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Does anyone know, off hand, the size of the hoses that run from a Universal 
> M-35 to the hot water heater? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List sail question

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Two years ago I had to purchase a new jib as the old roller-furling #2 Norlam 
sail finally gave up after 20 years of continuous use. I decided to buy new as 
nothing used appealed to me. I also decided to buy a 110% #3. It cost me 3K 
from North and turned out to be an excellent decision. That sail provided 
enough power for the boat for whatever sailing I wished to do with little 
apparent loss of speed. The biggest advantage was the comparative ease of 
tacking and trimming as the foretriangle on a LF38 is large and requires a lot 
of winch labour. 

My .02 (Canadian)

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC

Boatless!


On Jun 4, 2015, at 08:20, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thanks for all the info so far.
Racing is not an issue for this sail. Neither is real light air, I can motor, 
use the spinnaker, or drag out one of my 170 genoas. I have a Mylar and light 
Dacron 170 that both have hardly been used.
I am thinking smaller instead of bigger because when the wind is really kicking 
I want to roll in to around 100% and still have a good shape.
I have looked for used sails for years now and kind of given up on that. Unless 
the boat sinks, no one is giving up a good furling jib. If you want a racing 
sail or an old hank-on sail, plenty of those around. It looks like I will need 
to go new for this.
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com 
 
Coquina

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

As I recall, packing should be put in in sections rather than in one spiral 
piece. The method I used before getting a dripless seal, was to carefully cut 
three rings of packing and insert them so the ring ends were rotated 120 
degrees from each other, sort of like piston rings in an engine.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 2, 2015, at 20:52, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
wrote:

HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked these.  
It’s not complex.  If you don’t need new packing you just tighten the gland to 
a point where it is weeping at the rate you like.  Channel locks or pipe wrench 
will do the trick.  This is not high stress wrenching but you need to tension 
the packing with the first large nut, and then lock your tension with the 
second net to snug.  Too tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat the 
packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is gentle and to be happy with 
the rate of drip.  If you tighten it down and the pace continues, you may need 
new packing. If you pull your old packing out a bit and snip some off to see 
what was used you should be able to staunch the flow again.  If you pull it all 
out the box will leak at a high rate.  Lots of folks have the new packing!  
Plan accordingly.  As I recall the new packing wraps in the opposite direction 
as the forward prop spin  (take a mental picture as you pull the old packing 
out), enough to fill the gland then tighten gently to the point the drip slows, 
stops or is very small.  Keep an eye on it and tighten accordingly.  It will 
break in eventually and will remain static possibly for years.   I wish I were 
in Vancouver as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints.  Of course 
in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a couple 
of beers.  lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the relentless 
dripping adds up in the bilge.  It is not a huge problem though and someone on 
the net will chime in and come give you a hand.  Great folks in BC on C&C and 
other fine vessels.  
Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA 
> On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the packing? 
> Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten 
> the same?
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Only if it’s lit and loaded. 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 2, 2015, at 07:31, D Harben via CnC-List  wrote:

On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> 
> What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a 
> weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
>> This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a backyard-built 
>> plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions were all wrong and 
>> it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ & Melody via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Hi Dwight,
>> 
>> In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is 
>> what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce 
>> Lee, the Chinese  character? 
>> 
>> Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was 
>> forged steel.
>> check post #28
>> http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors 
>> 
>> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

She’s been in that slip since 1997. Say hi to Barry Clarke, the new owner and 
get him on the chat group. He’s a good guy and a great doctor. Kept me alive 
for years, much to everyone’s annoyance.

Rich 





On Jun 1, 2015, at 08:06, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  wrote:

Thanks Rich
 
Have contacted CMC
 
Indigo is in the water right across from Persistence
 
Mike
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
 
Mike:
 
Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever 
they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480.
 
Cheers
 
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




 
On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41&pid=142544 
<http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41&pid=142544>
 
Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing.  
Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot.  Although not in use something managed to 
catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with 
the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. 
 
The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 
11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” 
which we found in pieces.  We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings 
but not certain.  Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many 
bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is 
for ST6002)
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike:

Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever 
they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480.

Cheers

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  wrote:

http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41&pid=142544 

 
Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing.  
Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot.  Although not in use something managed to 
catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with 
the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. 
 
The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 
11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” 
which we found in pieces.  We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings 
but not certain.  Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many 
bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is 
for ST6002)
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do 
just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, 
there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna 
etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight 
means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will 
perform.

You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a 
windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.

 I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16” chain backed by 200’ of ⅝” nylon rode 
with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a 
problem.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:

> What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a 
> roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album 
> that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the 
> exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an 
> afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On May 31, 2015, at 07:47, Bill Bina via CnC-List  wrote:

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter hole. 
On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just the holes in 
the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink tubing at one time to 
make up the difference. There really is not room for anything thicker. It seems 
so loose, but it really is not much of a gap at all. Just enough for an 
annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long of I don't wedge a length of pool 
noodle between the rudder and transom before turning in for the night.

There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon holes to 
fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the pin to 7/16 inch 
to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very thin shrink tubing. Note 
that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous piece the length of the pin, as 
it will not fit through the hole in the rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a 
problem as it might seem. I may even remove the piece over next winter and have 
Garhaur or some other machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a 
model. If I take that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and 
room for replaceable generic plastic bushings.

Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
> The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
> if any to squeeze a bushing in there.
> 
> Brent
> Lake Winnipeg.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
>> machinist should be able to make them.
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>   I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my
>>   Rhodes 19.  Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J
>> 
>>   Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
>>   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Good day.
>>> I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
>>   transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
>>   hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
>>   replace them.  My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
>>   anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
>>> Cheers
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27 MkV
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
>>   to the bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>> 
>>   ___
>> 
>>   Email address:
>>   CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>   To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
>>   the bottom of page at:
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't live 
forever. 

RK

> On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
> breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank 
> for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check 
> resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the 
> starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad 
> cell that will take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you 
> put a load on it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You 
> could also take the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free 
> load test. 
> 
> Bill Bina 
> 
>> On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> Steve,
>> 
>> That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is 
>> here: 
>> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 
>> 
>> And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. 
>> When I combine, there’s enough there. 
>> 
>> All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>>   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Edd, 
>>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
>>> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
>>> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
>>> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. 
>>> Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your 
>>> engine if the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no 
>>> way that you need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent 
>>> solution to your starting problem. 
>>>  
>>> Steve Thomas
>>> C&C27 MKIII
>>> Port Stanley, ON 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also: A trojan T1275 is a deep cycle battery, according their website, and may 
not be capable of delivering the full power required to start a recalcitrant 
engine.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:40, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Joel,

I have the challenge that statement. When over 13 volts, the battery is in a 
charging state — power is being put into the battery from an alternator or 
external charging source.

See this chart: 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
 

 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On May 26, 2015, at 11:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Edd,
> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
> failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
> battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
> substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely 
> any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if 
> the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you 
> need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to 
> your starting problem.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>  
>  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

12.7 is fully charged. 13.6 is a battery under charge.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:28, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.

Joel

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has failed 
for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery switch 
itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a known 
good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car battery, 
including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully 
charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your starting problem.
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
 
 
 
- Original Message -
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C&C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

Josh,

When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I combine 
with the House Bank, she’ll start up. 

I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 






-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It certainly appears to be. Mebbe I'm missing a business opportunity. We do 
have a balcony, sunshine and water...

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 19:47, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Grow your own, it's legal here. 
> 
> Isn't it? 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 25 May 2015 at 19:24, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I thought about but can't afford the drugs. 
>> 
>> RK
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2015, at 18:55, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Working? What are you, insane? Go on the dole like everyone else here. 
>>> 
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> 
>>>> On 25 May 2015 at 18:26, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> I'll check it out. May be working. 
>>>> 
>>>> RK
>>>> 
>>>>> On May 25, 2015, at 15:12, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Coming to the rendezvous? There's some nice B&B's on Thetis. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> New info on the web site...http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jim Watts
>>>>> Paradigm Shift
>>>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>>>> Victoria, BC
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 25 May 2015 at 14:03, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>> Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> RK
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ___
>>>>> 
>>>>> Email address:
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Email address:
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I thought about but can't afford the drugs. 

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 18:55, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Working? What are you, insane? Go on the dole like everyone else here. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 25 May 2015 at 18:26, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I'll check it out. May be working. 
>> 
>> RK
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2015, at 15:12, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Coming to the rendezvous? There's some nice B&B's on Thetis. 
>>> 
>>> New info on the web site...http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> 
>>>> On 25 May 2015 at 14:03, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 
>>>> 
>>>> RK
>>>> 
>>>>> On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I'll check it out. May be working. 

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 15:12, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Coming to the rendezvous? There's some nice B&B's on Thetis. 
> 
> New info on the web site...http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 25 May 2015 at 14:03, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 
>> 
>> RK
>> 
>>> On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie.
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 25 May 2015 at 10:04, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> It'll take me back to my old stock car building days.
>> 
>> RK
>> 
>> > On May 25, 2015, at 08:14, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > Rich
>> >
>> > Get one with an engine that needs a bit of tuning.  That way you can spend 
>> > a summer working on it and keep us updated 
>> >
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
>> > Rich via CnC-List
>> > Sent: Monday, May 25, 2015 12:09 PM
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Cc: Knowles Rich
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
>> >
>> > Looking at a 30 today. Looks pretty decent from the exterior. A4.
>> >
>> > RK
>> >
>> >> On May 25, 2015, at 07:33, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
>> >>  wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Get another C&C?
>> >>
>> >> Rich wrote:
>> >>> I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. 
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ___
>> >>
>> >> Email address:
>> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> >> bottom of page at:
>> >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> > bottom of page at:
>> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> > bottom of page at:
>> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It'll take me back to my old stock car building days. 

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 08:14, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rich
> 
> Get one with an engine that needs a bit of tuning.  That way you can spend a 
> summer working on it and keep us updated 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
> Rich via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 25, 2015 12:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Knowles Rich
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
> 
> Looking at a 30 today. Looks pretty decent from the exterior. A4. 
> 
> RK
> 
>> On May 25, 2015, at 07:33, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Get another C&C?
>> 
>> Rich wrote:
>>> I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Looking at a 30 today. Looks pretty decent from the exterior. A4. 

RK

> On May 25, 2015, at 07:33, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Get another C&C?
> 
> Rich wrote:
>> I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike. He's a great guy, and his medical skills are to blame for my 
continuing existence. I'm glad he bought her.

I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. We got together with Russ and Melodie 
yesterday for a chat on their 35 mk1 on which he has done a great refurbishing 
job. Finally got to meet him after many years of chatting on this forum. 
Another great guy with a terrific partner. It's the C&C influence!

Rich

> On May 25, 2015, at 05:34, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rich
>  
> Ran into Barry Clarke yesterday at the club.  He is very happy with Indigo 
> and says he sailed on it quite a bit last year and before that.
>  
> He is itching to get it launched!
>  
> For any who do not know Barry’s claim to fame was as a goalie in the 
> Rockingham Minor Hockey system on our Pee Wee and Atom “A” teams.  He also 
> had a C&C 33-2 for many years.  .. and oh yeah – he is also known for being a 
> well respected Doctor of medicine
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
> Rich via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 2:31 AM
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List
> Cc: Knowles Rich
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
>  
> Thanks, Russ!
>  
> Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s 
> next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off.
>  
> Cheers
>  
> Rich
>  
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Boatless!
> 
>  
>  
> On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
> Hi Rich,
> 
> Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days 
> are currently under discussion at the institute.)
> 
> Can we assume the sale is final?
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> 
> At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote:
> 
> Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
> wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the 
> factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and 
> wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless 
> of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. 
> I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires 
> together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event 
> that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be 
> severed and rejoined as needed.
> 
> I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place 
> to start.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless.
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It's the antifreeze fairy at work. 

RK

> On May 24, 2015, at 08:24, robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under 
> it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a 
> cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.
> 
> I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find 
> out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine 
> has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but 
> there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the 
> sailing season.
> 
> I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow container' 
> is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container is not 
> leaking.  It's a mystery!
> 
> Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be 
> originating from?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Thanks, Russ!

Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s 
next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off.

Cheers

Rich

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!



On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Rich,

Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days are 
currently under discussion at the institute.)

Can we assume the sale is final?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote:
> Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
> wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the 
> factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and 
> wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless 
> of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. 
> I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires 
> together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event 
> that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be 
> severed and rejoined as needed.
> 
> I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place 
> to start.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless.
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Starting problems

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, 
but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set 
in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or 
engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest 
cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top 
quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to 
be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as 
needed.

I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place to 
start.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless.





On May 22, 2015, at 06:00, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Derek,

Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and 
check each connection. 

Could also be your starter solenoid. 

Good luck. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my C&C 30 mk1. Normally, 
when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing 
the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops.




This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on 
one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No 
cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were 
fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full 
charge on both batteries.



This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the 
engine started.



I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar 
switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very 
impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day.



I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch 
before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my 
problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and 
pressing the starter button got no reaction.



I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in 
advance



Derek Kennedy


Tortuga

C&C 30 mk1

Ballantyne’s Cove, NS

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stupid Club

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I used my 7 litre Pela vacuum extractor to empty the sump on my 3QM30 one fall 
and then kicked it over on the way up the companionway. Had to yank the sole 
and swab out the engine compartment. About three hours as I recall. Nice!

Rich 


On May 19, 2015, at 19:08, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I left the oil cap off once.  Ran the boat hard for 6 hours before I noticed.  
Also had the mess.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "robert via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert" 
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 10:23:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rig - crack?

Wally:
I have no problem admitting to my mental limitationsif I were that 
smart, I wouldn't be sailing a 31 year old boat and I wouldn't be doing 
all of the maintenance/work myself.  Possibly explains why I am a big 
fan of the C&C list.

Here's another example of 'stupid'..changed the engine oil last Fall 
just before haul outstarted the engine after the oil change but just 
long enough to hear the engine alarm go 'off'launched this Spring 
and went for a half hour motor before docking.noticed some oil in 
the bilgenow we get to the 'stupid'..forgot to put the oil cap 
back on the to of the engine last Fall after the oil changesome oil 
spurted out of the top of the engine and made a mess all the way to the 
bilge.

Had a big clean up.I am a full member of the 'stupid club' and 
freely admit it!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-14 11:04 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
> you wrote:
>> Steve:
>>  Instantly, now I feel stupid
>
> Welcome to the club.
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I’ll have t try that. Mebbe before we get in the doggone thing…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 17, 2015, at 07:54, S Thomas via CnC-List  wrote:

Rum takes up less room.
> - Original Message - 
> From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Knowles Rich <mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 10:18
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk
> 
> Aaaw! Thanks, Gary:) A little understanding goes a long way. 
> 
> I’m off kayaking for the weekend. Big switch from the LF38. Not much prop 
> walk and not much room for beer either. H….
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On May 17, 2015, at 03:08, Gary Russell via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Far from me to ridicule a sensitive guy!  <333.png>
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 11:39 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
>> prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, 
>> location of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft 
>> angle, both vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull 
>> speed through the water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my 
>> basic premise until disproved or ridiculed out of contention.
>> 
>> I’m a sensitive guy.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Nanaimo, BC
>> INDIGO LF38
>> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
>> You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of 
>> the hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into 
>> the rudder.
>> The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the 
>> port side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop 
>> located on the center line of the hull
>>  
>> Fair Winds,
>>  
>> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
>> Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
>> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
>> 416-919-2297 
>> bobhick...@rogers.com <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com>
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
>> 
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Nanaimo, BC
>> INDIGO LF38
>> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Aaaw! Thanks, Gary:) A little understanding goes a long way. 

I’m off kayaking for the weekend. Big switch from the LF38. Not much prop walk 
and not much room for beer either. H….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 17, 2015, at 03:08, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Far from me to ridicule a sensitive guy!  <333.png>
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 11:39 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, location 
of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft angle, both 
vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull speed through the 
water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my basic premise until 
disproved or ridiculed out of contention.

I’m a sensitive guy.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of the 
hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into the 
rudder.
The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the port 
side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop located on 
the center line of the hull
 
Fair Winds,
 
Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297 
bobhick...@rogers.com <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com>
 
 
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, location 
of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft angle, both 
vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull speed through the 
water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my basic premise until 
disproved or ridiculed out of contention.

I’m a sensitive guy.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of the 
hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into the 
rudder.
The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the port 
side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop located on 
the center line of the hull
 
Fair Winds,
 
Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com 
 
 
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Prop Walk C&C 29-2

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Well, this might be just the right time to float a theory I’ve had for some 
time about “prop walk”.  Here it is:

When the propellor is spinning, it produces a rotating horizontal column or 
spinning cylinder of water molecules which move away from the propellor along 
its axis. When the boat is going forward, this rotating column is left in the 
wake and, other than being split equally by the rudder as the boat moves 
forward, the spinning column has little to no effect on the directional 
performance of the boat as it is left behind in the wake and gradually 
dissipates.

When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing water to the front of the boat as 
it pulls the hull backwards, the column of spinning water leaving the prop is 
no longer free to dissipate in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat 
immediately in front of the propellor. If you consider the column of water as a 
spinning cylinder made up of molecules of water, the outer wall of the cylinder 
striking the hull will cause it to roll up the side of the boat away from the 
keel and toward the surface, and the spinning molecules in the interior of the 
cylinder will be directed away from the centre line of the hull and off to the 
side.

To see this in action, put your stationary boat in reverse and note on which 
side of the boat the water is agitated. If you have a right handed prop that 
turns left when in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the 
starboard side of the boat and will therefore push the stern of the boat to 
port. If you have a left handed propellor that turns to the right in reverse, 
the column of water will be directed to the port or left side of the boat 
pushing the stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and very useful affect 
known as prop walk.

Just my theory, but it seems to work for me. Comments welcomed.

Cheers

Rich

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold (really!) in Halifax, NS.





On May 15, 2015, at 07:51, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Prop walk is a function of the asymmetrical thrust produced by the angle of the 
shaft / rotational angle of the blades vs the water surface.  The more downward 
angle on the prop / the longer the blade has to travel going from bottom 
towards the surface compared to the blade that goes from top to bottom.  Longer 
path = more thrust per rotation for that blade = unequal thrust.. Pretty simple 
concept. 
See here: http://www.castlemarine.co.uk/propwalk.pdf 


Increasing either pitch or diameter affects prop walk and so does prop design.  
While efficient for sailing due to a typically smaller diameter, the Campbell 
Sailer is known for pretty bad prop walk.. 

With a little practice prop walk can be useful when you need to pivot or crab 
sideways.  I use a Martec folder which is also known for dismal reverse / prop 
walk.  For what I do, neither bothers me at all.  When I don't want prop walk I 
just give it a smooth burst of reverse thrust then put it in neutral / glide 
precisely where I want.  (I always back into my slip) 

Good luck, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA. 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Coolant distribution pump (fresh water pump?)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike: Rosborough Boats is now the local parts and service outlet for Yanmar. 
902-450-3262

Or ask Peter Drillio. He may have one in his basement or truck, or know where 
to get one/how to repair yours.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 13, 2015, at 06:35, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

Yanmar 3GM30F.
The weeping hole on the pump that distributes antifreeze throughout engine and 
various systems is now leaking antifreeze.  I believe Yanmar in their wisdom 
calls this the Fresh Water pump although my mechanic calls it a coolant 
distribution pump.
 
Anyone know who is best to purchase this part from in Halifax, NS?
 
Is this a DIY replacement or engage marine diesel mechanic job?
 
When did sailing become all about working on an engine, doing plumbing and 
cleaning ovens?
 
Mike
Persistence
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I was all set until I read that there is no trailer.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 12, 2015, at 20:43, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yeah, my wife said, "buy it for parts?"  I wasn't expecting that from her...

The engine looked to be in pretty good shape from the photos.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38)
Bayfield, WI



On May 12, 2015, at 9:22 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
 via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> Yeah, for $63 I think I will pass. Although there might be some good 
> parts..
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
> -- Original message--
> From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, May 12, 2015 17:48
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;
> Cc: Nate Flesness;
> Subject:Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>  
> 
> 
> Last bid I saw was $61. Might be worth it then again
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 C&C 30-1
> headed for the St. Croix River
> 
> and
> "Adagio"
> 1994 Tartan 31
> Lake Superior
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

The large wire, orange or otherwise, that connects the alternator output post 
to the post on the solenoid where the battery is connected should be 
disconnected from the alternator. It can be removed completely. Then connect 
the alternator output to the house bank. Since the wire run will likely be 
longer to the battery than it was to the starter, I recommend using heavier 
wire to reduce voltage drop. I suggest using 6 AWG wire. Make sure you are 
using good crimping tools and that the wire is physically tied off to the 
engine near the alternator so that the terminal is not exposed to vibration.

The other wire on the solenoid battery terminal or possibly on the alternator 
output terminal will be the wire to the instrument cluster that enables engine 
start and the gauges. Ideally that should be fed from the engine start battery 
which will be tied to the solenoid.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 4, 2015, at 10:44, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

My rewire project is about 80% complete and I plan to finish tomorrow. Thanks 
to all for the advice. 

I took a look at the back of the alternator, where I want to change the output 
wiring to go back to the house bank (where the ACR is). But there are several 
wires coming out of it and I’m not sure of which one to cut and replace.

See: 
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/images/wiringdiagram.gif 
 

I’m pretty sure I should remove the orange wire, but wanted to verify with the 
list. And I wanted to make sure that if it is the orange wire, and I do remove 
it, that it won’t have any negative effect on any other engine systems. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

end up with lee 
> helm, which can be dangerous.  I doubt you have enough adjustment to get that 
> far though.
> 
>  
> 
> Jake
> 
>  
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> 
> “Midnight Mistress”
> 
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> 
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:36 PM
> To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list Cnc-List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step
> 
>  
> 
> Hi All. I’ve been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.
> 
>  
> 
> Perhaps someone else might like to answer Josh’s questions as I can’t…> 
> 
>  
> 
> Rich Knowles
> 
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley  <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the foot forward?  The original 
> poster was asking about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 blocks 
> forward of the mast and the mask back all the way aft.  I assumed that in 
> moving the blocks to move the mast forward that this would move the foot 
> forward as well.  No mention of changing headstay length so I assumed it to 
> be the fixed point in all of this.  Based on these assumptions the trailing 
> edge of the mast and the luff edge of the sail would also move forward but 
> the mast as a whole would have more rake.  Right?
> 
> Josh
> 
> On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, "Rich Knowles"  <mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
> 
> I'm confused. Since the luff is attached to the trailing edge of the mast, if 
> the mast rake increases the luff must move along with it. Perhaps someone 
> else can make more sense if this than I can for you. I'm at work but will 
> post our conversation to the masses when I get home. 
> 
> RK
> 
> 
> On May 2, 2015, at 15:16, Josh Muckley  <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
> What you said was that moving the mast aft moves the center of effort aft.  
> Since the original question was about placement of the mast foot being all 
> the way aft and the consequences of moving it forward I assumed you were 
> referring to the foot.  I had originally stated that moving the foot forward 
> would increase rake and then mis-stated that increased rake would reduce 
> weather helm.  I was quickly corrected and I conceeded that more rake equals 
> more weather helm.
> 
> So what is the combined effect of moving the luff edge forward but increasing 
> rake?  The two actions have opposite effects correct?
> 
> Josh
> 
> On May 2, 2015 2:28 AM, "Rich Knowles"  <mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
> 
> Moving the mast aft moves the centre of sail effort aft and increases weather 
> helm. Simple geometry.
> 
>  
> 
> Rich Knowles
> 
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, "N7FN--- via CnC-List"  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is 
> positioned.
> 
> Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast 
> was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.
> 
> The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the 
> workers in the yard put it.
> 
> Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all the 
> way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for 
> moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.
> 
> Frank Noragon
> C&C 38LF, s/n 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go 

Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hi All. I’ve been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.

Perhaps someone else might like to answer Josh’s questions as I can’t…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the foot forward?  The original 
poster was asking about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 blocks forward 
of the mast and the mask back all the way aft.  I assumed that in moving the 
blocks to move the mast forward that this would move the foot forward as well.  
No mention of changing headstay length so I assumed it to be the fixed point in 
all of this.  Based on these assumptions the trailing edge of the mast and the 
luff edge of the sail would also move forward but the mast as a whole would 
have more rake.  Right?

Josh

On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, "Rich Knowles" mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
I'm confused. Since the luff is attached to the trailing edge of the mast, if 
the mast rake increases the luff must move along with it. Perhaps someone else 
can make more sense if this than I can for you. I'm at work but will post our 
conversation to the masses when I get home. 

RK

On May 2, 2015, at 15:16, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

> What you said was that moving the mast aft moves the center of effort aft.  
> Since the original question was about placement of the mast foot being all 
> the way aft and the consequences of moving it forward I assumed you were 
> referring to the foot.  I had originally stated that moving the foot forward 
> would increase rake and then mis-stated that increased rake would reduce 
> weather helm.  I was quickly corrected and I conceeded that more rake equals 
> more weather helm.
> 
> So what is the combined effect of moving the luff edge forward but increasing 
> rake?  The two actions have opposite effects correct?
> 
> Josh
> 
> On May 2, 2015 2:28 AM, "Rich Knowles"  > wrote:
> Moving the mast aft moves the centre of sail effort aft and increases weather 
> helm. Simple geometry.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> INDIGO LF38
> Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, "N7FN--- via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is 
> positioned.
> 
> Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast 
> was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.
> 
> The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the 
> workers in the yard put it.
> 
> Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all the 
> way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for 
> moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.
> 
> Frank Noragon
> C&C 38LF, s/n 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Xantrex Echo Charger

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Edd. Curious why you are not using it…?

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Sold in Halifax, NS.





On Apr 20, 2015, at 09:12, Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Hello, hello, hello…. 

Is there an echo in here? Well yes! I have a new Xantrex Echo Charger that I’m 
not going to use in my Enterprise re-wiring project. And, since the list has 
been such a wonderful resource in the planning of it all out as well as the 
zillion other benefits, I’m offering it up to members of the C&C list like 
this: a C&C-List online auction. 

Reply to the C&C list with your offer (we’ll all see it and the bidding goes 
from there). After UPS Ground shipping costs and whatever PayPal fees are paid, 
I will donate the rest — all of it -- to Stu and the C&C Photoalbum site. I 
will net $0. 

I will “close” the auction at 5:00pm Eastern Time on Wednesday, April 22. The 
starting bid is $15. 

Here is the item/specs: 
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Accessories/Auxiliary-Battery-Charger/Echo-charge-OwnerGuide(445-0204-01-01).pdf
 

 

Good luck to all. Hailing frequencies are open. On screen. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest that the less 
complexity and fewer components in the electrical system the better, especially 
in a salt water environment. That also means no unnecessary switches or 
electrical equipment in the cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic 
much more often than those out of the weather in the cabin. 

“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the activities such as 
turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights are urgent, and saving a few 
steps to reach the protected main panel is not worth compromising the 
reliability of the system. The less sub-panels the better to my mind. 

The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on the main panel 
and certainly by the battery switch when the boat is unattended.

Just a few thoughts…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List  wrote:

And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types (talking 
weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC types) built-in and the 
other just has plain switches. With the latter you’d need to mount a below-deck 
fuse block next to the switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up 
one of the Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to it 
from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the cockpit sub-panel 
to control nav-lights and feeds to pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot 
and also provide proper sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, 
although my chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could 
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed below when 
not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off completely to it’s plug-in 
connection.
 
In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as possible ... 
eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to access. For example, I plan 
to put in AGC-type panel mount ‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge 
panel for the compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are 
in the standard C&C panel.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
 
 
 
From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; Alex Giannelia 

Subject: Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
 
Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an appropriate 
breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you were planning that 
already.
Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy
> 
> My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
> companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15 
> switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off 
> switch.
> 
> The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been replaced 
> by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric motor 
> charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the house bank. 
> On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging locker which  
> may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two 
> VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition WS45 
> instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.
> 
> The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the 
> locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel 
> (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.
> 
> So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be 
> switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine installer 
> installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for whatever.
> 
> Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the 
> cabin panel.
> 
> Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to the 
> lights, nav lights, pumps etc.
> 
> Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?
> 
> Alex Giannelia
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
> TORONTO, Ontario
> 
> a...@airsensing.com 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-lis

Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind mast unit. ..

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike and David: I am now in Nanaimo, the other end of Canada, and have no idea 
where that gear went. I gave all my stuff away to various people before we left 
on Jan 8.

Sorry!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.


On Mar 30, 2015, at 06:43, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had one for a Raytheon ST60 (that will indicate its age).  I may have given 
it to Rich Knowles along with the faulty display unit last year.  If Rich still 
has it it may be available.  It will require new wind cups and direction wand.
 
Mike
 
Persistence
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] On Behalf Of davidrisch75 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine wind mast unit. ..
 
Need a mast wand for an ST 60.  Anybody have one for sale?
 
David F. Risch.
1981 40
 
Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 









___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hmmm… When the voltage difference between a charging source and battery being 
charged is high, the amperage flow is high as well, and vice versa. 

The Operation Manual for the EchoCharge says:

"When the input voltage is 13.0/25.5 volts DC or higher, echo-charge 
automatically switches ON. The LED glows a steady green. When the input voltage 
is lower than 13.0/25.5 volts, the echo-charge automatically switches OFF, and 
the LED blinks green. The output voltage of echo- charge is limited to 
14.4/28.8 volts. When it reaches 14.4/28.8 volts, the charge current will 
decrease, maintaining a float condition. The starter battery will be fully 
charged without overcharging.
No load current drain on the house bank is less than 50 milli-amps.

If the input voltage is above 14.4 volts (or 28.8), output will be limited to a 
maximum of 14.4/28.8 volts. 


My interpretation is that when the output voltage of the echo-charge reaches 
14.4 volts, it assumes the start battery is full and lowers the applied voltage 
to float level, around 13.5. This reduces the charge current and keeps the 
electrolyte in the battery where it belongs.

I suggest looking at this paper for more insight into the three stage charging 
process.   
http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/MS20070308_3-stage-whitepaper.pdf
 
<http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/MS20070308_3-stage-whitepaper.pdf>

In any event, I have had an Echo Charge unit on my boat since before 2000 and 
have had the same start battery since then. The house batteries, two 400 series 
Surrette batteries, finally reached end of service  after 14 years. I have 
installed echo charge units as part of rewiring the primary systems on many 
boats over the years, and, other than a couple of units that died due to water 
exposure, they all perform very well and the owners don’t have to do any 
switching at all to maintain their battery systems.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Mar 28, 2015, at 10:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
wrote:

It also says when the output voltage reaches 14.4 volts, it reduces the output 
current to maintain a float condition. There’s also a curve in the owner’s 
manual that relates difference in voltage between banks to output amperage. 
When the voltage difference is low, the amperage is high and it decreases as 
the voltage difference increases.
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 10:26 AM
To: C&C List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; Rich Knowles 
<mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)
 
Rich,
Great explanation but don't the other combiners turn off once the starting 
battery is greater than or equals to the house?  As was pointed out to me the 
echo-charge is simply a voltage follower with a limit of 14.4v.  At least one 
relay style combiner I've seem has an adjustable high voltage shutoff.
Josh
On Mar 28, 2015 10:51 AM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late 
> reply. Work…
>  
> I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:
>  
> When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
> combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
> same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
> amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is 
> fully charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided 
> excessive voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to 
> efficiently recharge it.
>  
> In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for 
> just that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to 
> the starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in 
> reasonable condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually 
> within a few minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good 
> condition should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before 
> requiring recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as 
> charging of house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose 
> electrolyte.  If this process is repeated often or long enough, the start 
> battery will eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. 
> This situation is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and 
> multi step AC chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than 
> those produced by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage 
> chargers.
>  
> Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
>

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late reply. 
Work…

I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:

When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is fully 
charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided excessive 
voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to efficiently 
recharge it.

In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for just 
that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to the 
starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in reasonable 
condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually within a few 
minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good condition 
should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before requiring 
recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as charging of 
house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose electrolyte.  If 
this process is repeated often or long enough, the start battery will 
eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. This situation 
is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and multi step AC 
chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than those produced 
by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage chargers. 

Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated engine 
start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough charge 
voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there will always 
be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be provided to enable 
emergency use of the house battery to start the engine or the engine start 
battery to provide house power.

I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass batteries 
installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of money for 
expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main house battery. 
If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry, ventilated, relatively 
cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal cause for failure I have 
seen.

Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen and 
installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be 
connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery 
charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output smart 
charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the EchoCharge 
to distribute charge current as needed to start and other auxiliary batteries, 
one device for each battery. That charger is connected to the same point in the 
system as the alternator, as are any wind generators and solar panels on board.

As an aside, I’m intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger 
battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient 
charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our 
boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments, lighting 
and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period and generally 
will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery bank should be 
plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight that simply slows down 
the boat and extends time between longer charges.

Controversy is welcomed! 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I have a suffering iron too. For clothes. At least, that’s how much I like it.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Mar 28, 2015, at 05:18, Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a 
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with 
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp a 
connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
Date: 03/28/2015 7:16 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 


A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
> tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
> I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
> couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
> By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
> www.marinehowto.com  
> > - fascinating 
> reading,
> and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
> major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
> Damian Greene
> C&C 34 GHOST
> Bass Harbor, Maine
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
>

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

No major problems that I can see. I’m not a big fan of battery combiners for 
charging purposes and would prefer to see a XANTREX EchoCharge unit in its 
place.

Check out 
http://xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo BC.
INDIGO LF38
For sale and buried in snow in Halifax, NS.


On Mar 26, 2015, at 14:30, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

Thanks for all of the advice regarding rewiring the power systems on the 
Enterprise. 

Here is link to my draft setup: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf
 

 

Very crude I know and probably could be considered a mess by any respectful 
wiring diagram standards. Still, I would appreciate listers input or just to 
say “Edd, you got it all wrong. You idiot. Get off our C&C List, you amateur 
hack.”

Thanks again. This list is the most valuable part of owning my C&C. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hi All!

I’ve been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the list. 
Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.

My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:

http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ 


Willing to answer questions. 

Also:

A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an 
acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum 11’9” 
beam so she’s back on the market.

Don’t forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171 



Back to sorting stuff:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
> drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Edd,
> 
> I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
>  
> 
> Bill
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
> 
>  
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
> Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
> Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
> wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
> the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
> 
>  
> 
> I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
> starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
> 
>  
> 
> 12 weeks to launch! 
> 
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
>  
> 
> Edd
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> 
> Starship Enterprise
> 
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> 
> City Island, NY 
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Kingston Marine Museum in danger

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226&rn=428&action=show_detail
___
I passed on the comments below to an old sailing buddy of mine who lives in 
Kingston simply as an FYI. He responded as follows:

"As a city resident, I agree with the city hall moves so far.  Instead of 
writing to politicians, tell your friends to send money!”
 
Hmmm….

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On Jan 20, 2015, at 07:26, Robert Mazza via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Richard,

I'm not sure how effective it might be, but dropping a quick email to the Mayor 
and the seven councillors who voted against the motion to acquire the property 
from the Federal government  upon which the museum sits would be greatly 
appreciated. I think it is important to remind them that the Marine Museum of 
the Great Lakes at Kingston has a much broader constituency than just Kingston. 
Emails from far afield might emphasise that. The New Age of Sail exhibit, the 
founding of the Canadian Sailing Hall of Fame, and the preservation of the 
history of recreational sailing in Canada and the Great Lakes are all 
initiatives in which the Marine Museum has been involved. Just letting them 
know that "the whole world is watching" might be very beneficial!

Rob


Mayor Brian Paterson:   bpater...@cityofkingston.ca 

Peter Stroud: pstr...@cityofkingston.ca 
Jeff McLaren: jmcla...@cityofkingston.ca 
Liz Schell: lsch...@cityofkingston.ca 
Rob Hutchinson: rhutchin...@cityofkingston.ca 

Lisa Osanic: losa...@cityofkingston.ca 
Kevin George: kgeo...@cityofkingston.ca 
Ryan Boehme: rboe...@cityofkingston.ca 

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Richard N. Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>> wrote:
Rob, is there anything we can do as an organization? Obviously, a large portion 
of us are south of the border, but we want to see the museum be successful in 
this as well as our Canadian brethren; what would you recommend?

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 


-Original Message-
From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Harry Hallgring mailto:hhallgr...@icloud.com>>
Cc: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Mon, Jan 19, 2015 7:46 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kingston Marine Museum in danger

Harry,

Pdfs of all drawings can be obtained from the Museum Curator, Sandrena Raymond, 
at (cura...@marmuseum.ca ). Let's hope that the 
drawings will still be available for many years to come. However, all Canadians 
should drop a note to their Conservative MPs, if they want to help.

Rob

On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 7:30 PM, Harry Hallgring mailto:hhallgr...@icloud.com>> wrote:
Hi Rob,
Truly a critical period in the history of the museum...wish i could write a 
huge check!  Fearing losing forever the opportunity to acquire the drawings for 
MIRAGE, i would like to initiate the process buy them.  She is a 1985 C&C 
Northeast 39 built in the Bruckman yard.  Would you be able to point me in the 
right direction to get this rolling?  

Harry Hallgring
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 19, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

> Hi Jim,
> 
> Thanks for letting everyone know about this. As you might know, I serve on 
> the Board of Trustees of the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston, 
> and I was the co-curator of the New Age of Sail exhibit at the Museum last 
> year, one of the high points of which was inducting George Cuthbertson and 
> Bruce Kirby into the Canadian Sailing Hall of Fame. Your attached piece by 
> Mr. Granatstein is quite accurate. The Marine Museum is facing extinction if 
> the Federal Government doesn't change its mind and hangs on to this historic 
> piece of waterfront property, or if they don't work more closely with the 
> City of Kingston to help them acquire the land. Otherwise it will be sold to 
> private developers who will evict the Museum to build more condos.  The 
> Museum does not have enough money to finance a relocation, even if a suitable 
> location was available.
> 
> Yes, please write your MPs, especially the Conservative ones. This is very 
> serious stuff. The Museum holds the entire C&C Collection of drawings, as 
> well as drawings from German and Milne, and many other prominent Canadian 
> Naval Architects and shipbuilders.
> 
> Rob Mazza
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 6:41 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 

Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I dunno, There are not a lot of 6V golf cart batteries in space last time I 
checked.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.

On Dec 16, 2014, at 17:45, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Counts in my book…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 16, 2014, at 2:58 PM, Leslie Paal mailto:lpaalc...@yahoo.com>> wrote:

> Even he is not a rocket scientist; he just helped to communicate with 
> spacecraft a few million miles away, at the edge of the solar system.
> 
> Leslie
> (JPL, retired)

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Indigo is for sale.

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

After a few years of equivocating and procrastinating, I have finally decided 
to relocate.  We are moving to Nanaimo BC, the other end of Canada, and intend 
to make our home there for the foreseeable future. We plan to hit the road on 
January 8, weather permitting, for a three week or so odyssey and arrive around 
the end of January.

The sad part of this will be leaving Indigo, our LF 38 behind. It’s simply not 
practical to ship her to the west coast and the North West Passage is a bit too 
ice choked at this time of year to sail. So, she is up for sale. Details can be 
seen at: 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch
 


I’ll still be lurking and, who knows, may wind up with another C&C. A good 
thing. 

Cheers to all.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.






___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Prettiest Girl

[Knowles Rich]

Is there a message? :)

Indigo
LF 38
Halifax, NS

> On Oct 15, 2013, at 19:48, Rick Bushie  wrote:
> 
> 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 30-1, 
> 30-1, 30-1!
> 
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy,
> Worton Creek, MD
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis Boat Show

[Knowles Rich]

To me, this conversation is more about brand loyalty than differences in boats. 
I don't know of a single 1980's automobile that bears much resemblance to it's 
2013 descendant either mechanically, structurally or visually, but we still 
love our Chevs or Bimmers.

We are very fortunate that the boats most of us own are extremely well built, 
tough as nails and good lookin' too:) I was over today at the shop doing the 
repairs to mine after my altercation with a shoal, and the surveyor and the 
guys in the shop were both amazed at that the damage was confined to the keel 
and the rudder. They said that any modern boat would have to have the sump and 
rudder post area rebuilt. 

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On 2013-10-15, at 5:13 PM, dwight veinot  wrote:

Check the the meaning of C&C...designed and built...I think the design is the 
important part...I don't think the designers were either of the original C's

On Tuesday, October 15, 2013, Andrew Burton wrote:
Just a little info about US Watercraft, who will be building the new C&Cs. I 
know most of the people involved and they are pretty decent guys. The company 
president used to own a C&C 41, his right hand man grew up on a C&C 29, and one 
of the guys used to work at the old C&C plant in RI. Most of the rest have some 
connection with pre-Tartan C&Cs. I think they will be a good thing for the 
brand. And they have already offered their support in any way they can for 
those of us with older boats.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Never ceases to amaze me how DUMB some people are!

[Knowles Rich]

That pink kinda clashes with the red hull of the tanker. Twit!!

Rich

Indigo
LF 38
Halifax, NS

> On Oct 15, 2013, at 14:47, "Dennis C."  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Duh!  Large vessel in confined channel.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Advice for sailing shorthanded on C&C 38 or 35

[Knowles Rich]

Very nicely said, Rick. No howls here:)

Rich

Indigo
LF 38
Halifax, NS

> On Oct 15, 2013, at 13:01, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
> 
> Welcome to the family, Jim. You will find that the folks on Stu’s List can 
> pretty much tell you anything you want to know about C&C boats – and a lot of 
> other things as well.
> 
> I have a 76 model 38, a mark 1 as it turns out, that I’ve owned since 2003. 
> In recent years I’ve been refitting the boat as a live aboard cruiser. My 
> future Admiral and I have talked about getting a larger boat in order to have 
> more living space and storage. But we’ve basically agreed that we want to 
> keep Imzadi because of the great sailing characteristics of the boat and the 
> high quality – plus the fact that the systems I’ve installed and the 
> maintenance I’ve done over the years would probably need to be replicated on 
> any other boat we purchased. Sailing the 38 – or just about any other C&C – 
> is a whole lot more fun than sitting around in your average Benneteau, 
> Catalina, or Hunter condo-on-the-water.
> 
> Just about any mid-70s C&C is built like a tank, albeit a nimble one. 
> Different boats have their own peculiarities – mast steps on some 35s and 33s 
> (IIRC) and glued in portlights on some models – but I’ve not had any problems 
> with my 38 in the years I’ve owned her. The 38 does have a cored hull with 
> some hard points for installation of through hulls. Some consider the core to 
> be a risk but I’ve had no problems; you may want the surveyor to look closely 
> at any boat you consider. As a matter of experience I’ve only had one small 
> blister on the hull, even though the boat is in brackish to salt water 
> constantly for 3 to 4 years between haul outs for bottom paint. I don’t 
> believe blistering was a big problem on C&Cs, but YMMV.
> 
> You ask if the boat is too tender or too large. I’ve been sailing for 48 
> years now, and in my experience the 38 is a fairly stiff boat. I’ve had the 
> rail down near the water a few times, but that is neither fast nor 
> comfortable. You can carry a generous amount of sail and still keep the boat 
> on her feet pretty easily. The pinched in IOR stern give a peculiar corkscrew 
> motion when going downwind in a seaway, but I sail mostly in the relatively 
> shallow water in Eastern North Carolina and that means the wave period is 
> pretty short which may contribute to the motion. I’ve sailed boats from a 12 
> foot dinghy my Grandfather and I built when I was 14 to a 71 foot schooner on 
> which I crew, and IMHO the bigger the boat the easier it is to sail, all 
> things considered. Bigger boats are more stable, the motion is more 
> comfortable, and they demand less constant attention. You just need to get 
> used to the inertia and personality of the boat, and you can do that fairly 
> quickly.
> 
> I usually single hand Imzadi. Well, when going point-to-point it’s actually 
> sort of single-and-a-half handing if you count George (the autopilot). My 
> future Admiral is intent to learn, but she is still essentially a non-sailor 
> so she mostly watches and tails the occasional genoa sheet it trims a genoa 
> car. I’ve made a number of changes to facilitate single handing: roller 
> furling genoa, the Strong Track for the main, removed the winch farm on the 
> deck and led all the lines aft to clutches and winches reachable from the 
> cockpit, line adjustable Garhauer genoa cars and a Garhauer traveler with 
> lines reachable from the helm. My next project will be self-tailing primary 
> winches I can reach from the wheel (tailing the big winches while steering 
> and grinding is a PITA).
> 
> Most of those things are nice-to-haves. The two things I think are 
> need-to-haves are the roller furling and the good autopilot. You’ll be amazed 
> how much you will use the autopilot for hoisting sail and freeing you from 
> steering so you can do other things while on passage.
> 
> So don’t be afraid of the bigger boat. You’ll get used to it pretty quickly.
> 
> And I have one other comment, though I can already hear the howls coming from 
> some of the other listers. It’s really pleasant to own the prettiest girl in 
> the harbor. And for my money the two prettiest girls in the whole C&C fleet 
> are the 33-1 and the 38 mk1 and mk2.
> 
> And after all, a boat is like a mistress: You have her because you love her, 
> she WILL take all of your money, and she might as well be pretty.
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1
> la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Lynch
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 6:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Advice for sailing shorthanded on C&C 38 or 35
>  
> 
> Hi gang,
> 
> 
> I'm determined to buy an old C&C 38 or 35 primarily as a cruiser. I'm 
> considering a 1977 C&C 38 Mark II in great shape. My biggest concern is 
> whether the boat is too lar

Re: Stus-List TV bracket

[Knowles Rich]

Unplated steel. The corrosion gives some character. 

Indigo
LF 38
Halifax, NS

> On Oct 13, 2013, at 16:35, Aaron Rouhi  wrote:
> 
> Bronze or SS nails?
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> 1979 30-MK1
> Annapolis, MD
> 
>> On Oct 13, 2013, at 2:39 PM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
>> 
>> Flat with a 6" nail in each corner of the screen works great. Improves the 
>> programs too. 
>> 
>> Indigo
>> LF 38
>> Halifax, NS
>> 
>>> On Oct 13, 2013, at 14:39, Chuck S  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am mounting a flat screen TV on my boat.  Can I hang it on an 
>>> articulating arm, or does it need to be flat against a wall? 
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> Resolute
>>> 1990 C&C 34R
>>> Atlantic City, NJ
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List TV bracket

[Knowles Rich]

Flat with a 6" nail in each corner of the screen works great. Improves the 
programs too. 

Indigo
LF 38
Halifax, NS

> On Oct 13, 2013, at 14:39, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
> I am mounting a flat screen TV on my boat.  Can I hang it on an articulating 
> arm, or does it need to be flat against a wall? 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Raymarine ST4000 autopilot problem

[Knowles Rich]

Jake!!

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.

On 2013-10-07, at 8:01 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

 I do get a little rubbing from time to time that makes the engagement lever 
quiver when I’m not using it.  

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fridge upgrade - 34+

[Knowles Rich]

Just wondering why you would bother with the AC/DC unit for shoreside use?  
Assuming you have a battery charger, that should handle the refrigeration just 
fine. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Oct 4, 2013, at 15:21, Paul Fountain  wrote:

Edd,
 
I put one of these in Perception our 33-II last year – best upgrade yet (and 
we’ve done many) Keeps the beer cold and Admiral happy  We did get the 
optional AC/DC power supply also to use when on shore power which has also 
worked well.
 
Took a lot of nerve to make the cuts – and NO adult beverages before cutting, 
but other than that a simple install. I like that it has a fan and moves the 
air.
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: October-04-13 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fridge upgrade - 34+
rade
David,
 
I have a 37+ and our refrigeration system seemed to crap out a 
couple of years ago. I've been considering replacing it with a CoolMatic 
CS-NC-17, which requires cutting a pretty big hole in the side of the chest 
through to the hanging closet of the aft cabin. See 
http://www.dometic.com/bf37-68fa-4f42-8c4e-feacba361865.fodoc and 
http://www.dometic.com/enie/International/Site/Marine/Marine-Leisure/Cooling-Units/Products/?productdataid=87275.
 
Unit sells for around $600-$700 and installation seems pretty 
straight forward. 
(http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276204%7C2276226%7C2276231&id=323775)
 
 
May be one of my winter projects. 
 
As for juice, any refrigeration unit is going to be a serious 
amperage draw, and, personally, I would only plan on using it when the engine 
is running or connected to shore power. 
 
I've been warned that if I don't keep the beer cold, my crew will 
defect to the Klingon Empire. 

 
  All the best,
 
  Edd
 
 
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 
 
 
 
On Oct 4, 2013, at 1:30 PM, "David Blair"  wrote:


Anyone familiar with the 1990 34+ fridge details? I am thinking about upgrading 
the insulation, for the usual reasons. Not sure how much was installed 
originally and even less sure about how I can get into the cabinetry to 
determine what is there now. Something internal looks a lot more feasible but 
not sure of source for the right product. Planning to install myself and 
prepared to spend some time to get it right. The original NovaKool (sp?) works 
fine so far but draws a fair amount of juice. Any suggestions or prior 
experience with this model?  Thanks.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Standing height in C & C 40 1979

[Knowles Rich]

It's those high heel boat shoes you wear while entertaining.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-10-03, at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:

Wal, I don't think he's that kind of high. 

Well, he might be, but who's to know?

And there's nothing like a Jolt! cola to get you up and going. Do they still 
make that stuff?


On 3 October 2013 18:24, Wally Bryant  wrote:
Anders, maybe you should lay down and munch on some chocolate chip cookies and 
milk.



 Anders Brandt wrote:
Does anybody know what the standing height in the salon near the stove is in a 
C & C 40 1979 ?
I'm pretty high, so it matters a little:-)


-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

That's true, Jim. Actually, given the likely outcome when it's all over, it's 
not that terrible. Poor old boat. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 23:18, Jim Watts  wrote:

This is a much better time of year for this to happen than the beginning of the 
season, if that's any consolation. 


> On 30 September 2013 15:55, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> Thanks Rick. I'm waiting for the adjuster in the next couple of days and will 
> see what he proposes. I'm well aware of the pitfalls of straightening rudder 
> stocks, and other stainless bits, and intend to replace the entire assembly. 
> I suspect the keel will have to be dropped and rebedded as well. I'll report 
> as things progress.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 30, 2013, at 19:05, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
> 
> Rich;
> 
> If you want the long story of how I know this, I'll tell you off the list,
> but FWIW:
> 
> The LF38 came with rudder shaft in 2 different diameters. The owner of the
> LF38 formerly known as Banana Wind (which I think is now in Bayfield, WI)
> can tell you more about this.
> 
> One of the diameters is 2 1/4" OD, and those rudder stocks were made two
> ways. One was made from 2" schedule 80 stainless tube with a machined spud
> welded to the top for the emergency steering and rudder support nut. The
> other was machined from a 2 1/4" OD solid bar.
> 
> The shaft on my replacement rudder is the solid bar stock, and came from the
> original rudder on Banana Wind.
> 
> If you need it, I still have the top 18" of my original rudder stock with
> the machined spud still welded in place.
> 
> During my experience, I was told by a friend who is a metallurgist that you
> weaken stainless (in my case the schedule 80 tube) by 30% or so when you
> bend it, and by another 40-50% when you heat it to straighten it. It also
> becomes more susceptible to crevice corrosion after heating. The blade from
> my original rudder is somewhere on the floor of the Neuse River in NC, where
> it fell off as the result of crevice corrosion where the rudder stock enters
> the blade about 4 years after the original heat and bend repair of a bent
> shaft.
> 
> I wish I had argued with the insurance company for a replacement rudder
> instead of the heat and bend repair they paid for.
> 
> BTW, my replacement rudder came from Foss Foam in Florida, and cost about
> $2800US in 2008/2009 including freight and using the rudder stock I provided
> them. They probably still have the drawings for the rudder they supplied to
> me.
> 
> Good luck on your project.
> 
> 
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1
> la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
> Rich
> Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 9:37 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
> 
> Thanks for the sympathy:). Looks not too bad; bent rudder post, but I'll
> know more later today when she comes out. I'll supply more amusement at that
> time.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

Thanks Rick. I'm waiting for the adjuster in the next couple of days and will 
see what he proposes. I'm well aware of the pitfalls of straightening rudder 
stocks, and other stainless bits, and intend to replace the entire assembly. I 
suspect the keel will have to be dropped and rebedded as well. I'll report as 
things progress. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 19:05, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

Rich;

If you want the long story of how I know this, I'll tell you off the list,
but FWIW:

The LF38 came with rudder shaft in 2 different diameters. The owner of the
LF38 formerly known as Banana Wind (which I think is now in Bayfield, WI)
can tell you more about this.

One of the diameters is 2 1/4" OD, and those rudder stocks were made two
ways. One was made from 2" schedule 80 stainless tube with a machined spud
welded to the top for the emergency steering and rudder support nut. The
other was machined from a 2 1/4" OD solid bar.

The shaft on my replacement rudder is the solid bar stock, and came from the
original rudder on Banana Wind.

If you need it, I still have the top 18" of my original rudder stock with
the machined spud still welded in place.

During my experience, I was told by a friend who is a metallurgist that you
weaken stainless (in my case the schedule 80 tube) by 30% or so when you
bend it, and by another 40-50% when you heat it to straighten it. It also
becomes more susceptible to crevice corrosion after heating. The blade from
my original rudder is somewhere on the floor of the Neuse River in NC, where
it fell off as the result of crevice corrosion where the rudder stock enters
the blade about 4 years after the original heat and bend repair of a bent
shaft.

I wish I had argued with the insurance company for a replacement rudder
instead of the heat and bend repair they paid for.

BTW, my replacement rudder came from Foss Foam in Florida, and cost about
$2800US in 2008/2009 including freight and using the rudder stock I provided
them. They probably still have the drawings for the rudder they supplied to
me.

Good luck on your project.


Rick Brass
Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1
la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

Thanks for the sympathy:). Looks not too bad; bent rudder post, but I'll
know more later today when she comes out. I'll supply more amusement at that
time. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

Rather tell than be found out:) It's a kid thing. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 11:28, "j...@svpaws.net"  wrote:

Good luck.  Why is it that sailors can't wait to tell stories on themselves?

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> 
> In the mill, thanks. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 30, 2013, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> Rich,
> 
> You may want to submit an insurance claim.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 9:37 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
>> Thanks for the sympathy:). Looks not too bad; bent rudder post, but I'll 
>> know more later today when she comes out. I'll supply more amusement at that 
>> time.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:08, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
>> 
>> Sorry to hear about that Rich...
>> 
>> I hope it all works out with as little additional pain as possible...
>> 
>> Danny
>> Lolita
>> Viking 33
>> Westport Point, MA
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Knowles Rich 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
>> Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 19:55:37 -0300
>> 
>> Dunno. Yet. Hauling the boat Tuesday. I was way north if the red marker. 
>> Just not paying attention.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:40, Rick Taillieu  wrote:
>> 
>> Yes, ignoring that big red buoy can have its consequences.
>> I've seen one boat cut through there but it was a Bayfield 29, very shallow
>> draft.
>> I hope the damage isn't too expensive to fix.
>> 
>> 
>> Rick Taillieu
>> Nemesis
>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>> Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
>> Rich
>> Sent: September-29-13 19:33
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
>> 
>> Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:
>> 
>> Rich, which one did you hit?
>> 
>> 
>> Rick Taillieu
>> Nemesis
>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>> Halifax, NS.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
>> Rich
>> Sent: September-29-13 18:53
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info
>> 
>> Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and
>> trashed the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> -
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6708 - Release Date: 09/29/13
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

In the mill, thanks. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Rich,

You may want to submit an insurance claim.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


> On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 9:37 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> Thanks for the sympathy:). Looks not too bad; bent rudder post, but I'll know 
> more later today when she comes out. I'll supply more amusement at that time.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:08, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
> 
> Sorry to hear about that Rich...
> 
> I hope it all works out with as little additional pain as possible...
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Knowles Rich 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
> Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 19:55:37 -0300
> 
> Dunno. Yet. Hauling the boat Tuesday. I was way north if the red marker. Just 
> not paying attention.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:40, Rick Taillieu  wrote:
> 
> Yes, ignoring that big red buoy can have its consequences.
> I've seen one boat cut through there but it was a Bayfield 29, very shallow
> draft.
> I hope the damage isn't too expensive to fix.
> 
> 
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
> Rich
> Sent: September-29-13 19:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
> 
> Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:
> 
> Rich, which one did you hit?
> 
> 
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
> Rich
> Sent: September-29-13 18:53
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info
> 
> Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and
> trashed the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6708 - Release Date: 09/29/13
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

Thanks for the sympathy:). Looks not too bad; bent rudder post, but I'll know 
more later today when she comes out. I'll supply more amusement at that time. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:08, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

Sorry to hear about that Rich...

I hope it all works out with as little additional pain as possible...

Danny
Lolita
Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Knowles Rich 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 19:55:37 -0300

Dunno. Yet. Hauling the boat Tuesday. I was way north if the red marker. Just 
not paying attention. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:40, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Yes, ignoring that big red buoy can have its consequences.
I've seen one boat cut through there but it was a Bayfield 29, very shallow
draft.
I hope the damage isn't too expensive to fix.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 19:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Rich, which one did you hit?


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 18:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and
trashed the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6708 - Release Date: 09/29/13


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

[Knowles Rich]

Thanks, Jim. I'll let you know when I'm back in the water. It's a fine idea:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 30, 2013, at 0:53, Jim Watts  wrote:

You need to sail in deeper water, Rich. I'll help you get it through Panama. :)


> On 29 September 2013 14:52, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and trashed 
> the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 29, 2013, at 16:52, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
> 
> I knew I'd piss you guys off with that one.  Mission accomplished!
> 
> Cheers
> Colin
> 
> 
> > On 9/29/13, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> > That was "rich," NOT "Rich"…  I already have enough mouths here to feed…
> > :^)
> >
> > Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> >
> >> On Sep 29, 2013, at 1:10 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> >>
> >> Leave me out of this.
> >>
> >> Rich Knowles
> >> Indigo. LF38
> >> Halifax
> >>
> >> On Sep 29, 2013, at 13:59, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> >>
> >> Wow, I'm getting rich off this stuff?!  Who knew?   :^)
> >>
> >> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> >> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> >
> 
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 autopilot problem

[Knowles Rich]

To open the wheel unit, put a large flat screwdriver or pry between the two 
circular segments and pry them apart. This will expose the drive belt, idler 
pulleys and the tensioning clutch lever. The problem you are having is 
mechanical. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 18:52, David Knecht  wrote:

I had a problem with my autopilot today I could use some feedback on.  For the 
last few weeks, the lever that engages/disengages the autopilot would 
periodically release so that the autopilot ceased being able to turn the wheel. 
 Once engaged, it seemed to work fine, but the initial engagement seemed to not 
always stay locked in.  Today, as luck would have it, I was maneuvering in the 
10 minutes before that start gun, engaged the pilot to make and adjustment 
forward, and could not get it to disengage.  The wheel was effectively locked 
so I could steer with the autopilot, but not by hand.  After futzing with it 
for a few minutes, (trying to not hit someone trying to start) I gave up, 
lowered the sails, threw out the anchor and proceeded to remove the unit from 
the wheel.  We only started a few minutes late, but it was annoying to say the 
least.  I have brought the unit home and I can see no way to get inside it to 
see if I can figure out what is going on with the connect/disconnect lever.  No 
disassembly instructions in the manual.  Is this a "send it back to the 
factory", "throw it in the trash" or other solution?  Thanks- Dave


David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

Dunno. Yet. Hauling the boat Tuesday. I was way north if the red marker. Just 
not paying attention. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:40, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Yes, ignoring that big red buoy can have its consequences.
I've seen one boat cut through there but it was a Bayfield 29, very shallow
draft.
I hope the damage isn't too expensive to fix.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 19:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Rich, which one did you hit?


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: September-29-13 18:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and
trashed the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3408 / Virus Database: 3222/6708 - Release Date: 09/29/13


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bouncing Off a Shoal

[Knowles Rich]

Thrumcap. Not the first to do it but no excuse. Dumb. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 19:09, Rick Taillieu  wrote:

Rich, which one did you hit?


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: September-29-13 18:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and trashed 
the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

[Knowles Rich]

Good day to be rich. I just bounced my boat off a shoal near here and trashed 
the rudder. But I'm merely Rich:(

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 16:52, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

I knew I'd piss you guys off with that one.  Mission accomplished!

Cheers
Colin


> On 9/29/13, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> That was "rich," NOT "Rich"…  I already have enough mouths here to feed…
> :^)
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Sep 29, 2013, at 1:10 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
>> 
>> Leave me out of this.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On Sep 29, 2013, at 13:59, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>> 
>> Wow, I'm getting rich off this stuff?!  Who knew?   :^)
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

[Knowles Rich]

Leave me out of this. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 29, 2013, at 13:59, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Wow, I'm getting rich off this stuff?!  Who knew?   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Sep 28, 2013, at 2:56 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
> 
> That said, other than guys like Dennis, Rich and Fred who install the
> stuff, you don't see too many guys getting rich off marine
> electronics.  ;-)

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List AIS Transponder Info

[Knowles Rich]

Dennis and Fred must have my share!  Geez, guys. Not fair!

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

> On Sep 28, 2013, at 16:56, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
> 
> That said, other than guys like Dennis, Rich and Fred who install the
> stuff, you don't see too many guys getting rich off marine
> electronics.  ;-)

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New boat - NOT

[Knowles Rich]

That galley bulkhead looked odd to me too, possibly wet, but I think it's a 
shadow. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 28, 2013, at 17:04, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  wrote:

John,
What obvious DIY upgrades are you seeing?
I studied the photos pretty closely (as again it's not a boat I can pop over an 
see) - few wet spots (galley bulkhead), some worn wood work, bit of rust in one 
speaker (chainplate leak?)
But other wise I thought it looked good.
Mark

-
 Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
 - George Santayana

> On 28/09/2013 1:16 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
> Certainly a lot more boat that what you described of the "bargain" boat.  
> Good luck.  I would be a little cautious of the obvious DIY upgrades but 
> overall a nice looking boat.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 28, 2013, at 12:05 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> So the new boat is a bust!
>> 
>> I was thinking I had a chance to get a great deal, a boat in fair condition 
>> for a good price, just in need of some cosmetic cleaning etc.
>> 
>> Unfortunately no.  Surveyor found the boat was full of mold, cushions wet 
>> and moldy, stove rusted beyond repair, bilge full of rain water, manual 
>> bilge pump not functional, anchors rusted to point of needing replacement,   
>> Plus the usual minor issues - scrapes and scuffs in the gel coat etc.
>> With the bilge full of water the surveyor was unable to properly check the 
>> keel bolts or the mast step.
>> All told, just does not make sense.  And yes, I know, a few people on this 
>> list warned me of exactly these issues, but I couldn't help from trying to 
>> find that great deal where you catch a seller at just the right time.
>> Thanks for the advice and offers of assistance.  Rich had offered to help 
>> sail the boat back
>> 
>> Now I'm back looking at the CS 30 I posted.  More expensive, but boat looks 
>> in much better condition.  Bill, I appreciate the personal recommendation 
>> with the broker.  Discussed the boat with him, he says it has a few cosmetic 
>> issues but that the owner died last winter and the adult, non-sailing, 
>> children are selling the boat.  He feels they will likely be open to an 
>> offer given the boat will start costing them winter storage fees within a 
>> few weeks.
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/Cs-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.Ukb-NYasiM4
>> 
>> If it does go ahead I don't want to take that much time off work to sail the 
>> boat all the way home, but I have a local skipper who I was organizing to 
>> bring back the C&C29, and we should be able to organize getting the boat 
>> home in mid Oct if I go ahead with the CS.  I'm hoping if we time it right 
>> that I can drive down to Yarmouth and hop on the boat with him to bring it 
>> up the coast of NS.
>> 
>> We'll see how it goes.  I'm still willing to stick with my little Mirage 24 
>> if I can't find the right deal.
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> -- 
>> 
>> -
>>  Dr. Mark Bodnar
>> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
>> Bedford Chiropractic
>> www.bedfordchiro.ca
>> -
>> 
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>  - George Santayana
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mor Child's Play

[Knowles Rich]

I'm not sure if I said this before, but if the solenoid firing problem can be 
traced to the wire from the switch to the solenoid, I suggest first looking at 
the connection plug in the engine harness. Eliminate the  connectors by making 
crimped connections for each wire in the harness. If the wire itself is bad, 
run a new wire. Putting in a relay is a band aid solution. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 28, 2013, at 14:17, "Fred Hazzard"  wrote:

Jonathan:
 
Interesting advice on sailing a 44 offshore.   I am leaving in 2 weeks to sail 
to Mexico for the winter.  
 
Can you tell me more about the inside tank venting valves?   I found 2 caps 
from the previous owner in a bag saying vent caps.   While I could use them how 
would I vent the tanks?
 
I am also interested in the relay you put in the starter circuit.  I have just 
experienced a starting problem.   Wouldn’t start,  waited awhile and started 
right up.   What relay did you use and how was it wired?
 
Any other wisdom you can pass along will be appreciated.
 
Thanks
 
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan 
Boocock
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 6:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mor Child's Play
 
Richard, 
Thanks for the kind words regarding the trip. Its great to hear of people who 
read the blog.
For the type of sailing/cruising we were doing I feel as though the C&C 44 is 
nearly ideal.
We like to sail and sail fast where possible.
Most people enter the Caribbean from the US east coast in the BVI or St Martin 
unless you island hop along the thorny path. In any case the other islands are 
an upwind slog going east. I am shocked at how many people we talked to motor 
sail for the majority of their eastern passages, clearly because they have 
boats that don't sail upwind. Like all C&C's our boat is a joy to sail upwind.
I have been very pleased with using an old racer/cruiser as a strong, excellent 
sailing, cruising boat. Clearly we don't have the same interior space as other 
boats in the same size range but we found the accommodations adequate for the 
five of us (myself/wife/3 university aged kids).
The addition of solar panels over the large dodger (we have a significant 
bridge deck) and the wind gen. meant we never had to run the engine for power 
at sea or at anchor.
 
For really rough weather I had an inner forestay (tied into the 2 forward 
bulkheads) and storm jib ready to go. We didn't need it for storm conditions 
although I know Turicum (C&C 44 based in Vancouver) have used the same 
configuration as their offshore sail arrangement for many (8?) Vic-Maui 
offshore races/return passages.
 
As we are all aware the late IOR era hull shape can be a handfull in large 
following seas although our Raymarine autopilot handled it well. If you recall 
from the blogs we actually sheared the Edson aluminum autopilot tiller arm in 
two in a nasty storm on a passage to St Kitts and Nevis.
 
Next time I need to find a way to remove some weight from the bow for passages. 
Carrying a 25kg Rocna, 20kg Bruce and over 200 ft of chain in the anchor locker 
of a boat with not enough buoyancy up front meant we had a fairly significant 
bow down trim. It never really affected our sailing significantly but it always 
bothered me. When we sail on the Great Lakes we use 50' of chain on each anchor 
and that would be sufficient for any of the places we anchored in the 
Caribbean/Bahamas/Bermuda. 
 
Two (of many) hints I got from C&C 40 owner David Risch were to seal the anchor 
locker from taking on water when the bow submerges and to have a system to vent 
the water tank internally. I have some valves that allow us to easily switch 
between venting internally or externally. It was interesting to see not one but 
two "blue water" Island Packets with salt water contaminated water tanks, the 
only good water being in jerry cans on deck when we arrived in Bermuda. All 
three of our tanks were fine. 
 
As for future plans, I want to go down south next year although my wife doesn't 
like the long offshore passages so I will probably rely on a crew to get the 
boat south.I would like to follow that up with a summer in the Med and the 
following winter back in the Caribbean but we will have to see.
Its starting to get cold in Canada now, I wish we were heading south right now.
 
Wrt your starting problem. We always had an intermittent starting problem that 
sometimes resulted in requiring up to 5 tries to get the engine to start. We 
put up with it because the engine always started but it gradually got worse. In 
Hampton on the way south I bought a spare starter motor although the mechanic I 
talked to said that the wiring to the solenoid is insufficient (ie high 
resistance) on many Yanmars and really requires a relay.
We lived with the intermittent starting problem until we got back to Annapolis 
on our way north when it stopped working com

Stus-List Solar panels

[Knowles Rich]

A couple of us are contemplating purchasing solar panels to act as trickle 
chargers over the winter. One of our local retailers is selling Coleman brand 
panels of various capacities and physical sizes at reasonable prices. Has 
anyone any experience with the Coleman product, other than the good old camp 
stove and lanterns?

Any other suggestions for good solar panels?

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.






___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stanchion removal

[Knowles Rich]

Soak in grease water, heat and beat. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 24, 2013, at 10:34, Derek Leck  wrote:

Any ideas on how to remove stainless lifeline stanchions that are seized into 
their alloy bases?  Boat came from salt water now in fresh and time to clean, 
update & maintain.
 
Thanks
 
 

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : 

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List test

[Knowles Rich]

Cool but good. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 24, 2013, at 10:18, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

Fall is the BEST sailing of the year!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2013 10:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List test

A late bloomer:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 24, 2013, at 9:30, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

I agree with Graham.  I just launched my boat a week ago (for the second time 
this year)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 8:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List test

Hauling boats?  Bite your tongue!!!  There is a good month yet.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-09-23 7:59 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> Likely. Or busy hauling boats. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 23, 2013, at 18:03, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> No traffic since yesterday… is everyone watching the America's Cup coverage?  
>  :^)
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List test

[Knowles Rich]

A late bloomer:)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 24, 2013, at 9:30, "Hoyt, Mike"  wrote:

I agree with Graham.  I just launched my boat a week ago (for the second time 
this year)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2013 8:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List test

Hauling boats?  Bite your tongue!!!  There is a good month yet.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-09-23 7:59 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> Likely. Or busy hauling boats. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On Sep 23, 2013, at 18:03, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> No traffic since yesterday… is everyone watching the America's Cup coverage?  
>  :^)
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List test

[Knowles Rich]

Likely. Or busy hauling boats. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 23, 2013, at 18:03, Frederick G Street  wrote:

No traffic since yesterday… is everyone watching the America's Cup coverage?   
:^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Oracle still alive

[Knowles Rich]

Thanks Dennis.  I'm impressed!

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On Sep 22, 2013, at 19:59, "Dennis C."  wrote:

Oracle wins Races 14 and 15 to bring overall score to Kiwis 8, Oracle 5.

Dennis C.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem

[Knowles Rich]

Sorry. Premature send finger press. Complete text:

Any time a problem starts up that has not existed before, adding additional 
relays and wires is merely a bandaid. Lots of wires in the older boat are 
non-tinned wire and rot out from exposure to water that wicks up under the 
insulation and gradually turn the copper conductors to green dust. The big 
diagnostic trap to be aware of is that voltage measurements may sometimes look 
correct but the oxidized conductor in the circuit being measured cannot carry 
any useful current.

Another source of problems is the plug/socket assemblies in the harnesses. Very 
useful for the builder but often a source of continuing problems as they are 
generally located in an inhospitable part of the boat and easily develop 
problems. I frequently simply remove the connectors and butt-splice the 
individual wires together. Lots of places to find causes for electrical 
mysteries. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-09-20, at 14:35, "McNamee, Michael"  wrote:

This is a well known problem with Yanmar engines.  I had exact same symptom on 
a previous boat (Yanmar 2gm20f).  Apparently, the wiring from the starter 
switch to the starter solenoid is NOT QUITE adequate to always energize the 
solenoid.  It can be fixed by adding an additional relay.  See the following 
link for details.
 
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/yanmar-starter-is-intermittent-9085.html
 
Cheers,
Mike
C&C30 mk II Echappe
 
From: Indigo [mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us] 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 8:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem
 
Recently Indigo has developed what is currently annoying problem, but could 
become more serious.  After turning the key (and getting the low oil-pressure 
buzzer), when I press the starter button, absolutely nothing happens.  I press 
it again, and it usually starts right up. Occasionally more pushes on the 
button are required.  Is the remedy going to be simply replacing the 
push-button ignition switch or am I likely facing something more to fix?
 
Indigo – 36MKIII
Southport CT  
 
 
 
 
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com