Re: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt
MIke: stainless at Bolt Depot: http://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Slotted_flat_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_1_2-13.aspx Neil Gallagher 35-1 Weatherly Glen Cove, NY On 7/25/2013 9:09 PM, Persuasion wrote: Help I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum bolts only loosened about 1 1/2 turns then seized. All I could do was drill it out. Now I'm having difficulty finding a replacement. I called Edson and they advised me that they no longer carry the 6" bolt. Thanks C&C for making an extra heavy cockpit sole. So does anyone know where I can source a flat head 1/2" X 6" (5" would work) aluminum bolt. If a pinch I would use a stainless. Thanks Mike S/V Persuasion C&C 37 Keel/CB Long Sault ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles
Dennis: I'm interested in pictures, I'm dealing with that very issue. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 7/27/2013 6:39 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Just installed the new genoa sheets with soft shackles. Haven't gone out to try them but they HAVE to work better than bowline knots. They are smooth. I think they will slide across the forward lower shrouds without hanging up. I took pics if anyone is interested. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles
Must have been the night for dumb engine moves...(sorry Edd)... Also going out for Wed night racing, crew lets go of the mooring and about 5 sec later the engine just stops dead. Same 10-15 kt breeze, we're about 100 yards upwind of the rock breakwater, and have moored boats about 100 ft away, one of which we're aiming right for. Only option was to unfurl the jib, and just managed to avoid collision. After we get clear of all the boat and the breakwater, and the heart rate drops a little, I looked for what was wrongI always close the fuel line valve (A4 engine) when leaving the boat, except for the last time. Last night without thinking I just turned the handle, not realizing I had just closed it... felt like 2 cents after it was all over. Moral of the story: always have the sails ready...or an anchor. And it's amazing how fast a dicey situation can develop... Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/1/2013 10:33 AM, Edd Schillay wrote: Listers, Just wanted to share my experience last night trying to get the boat out to a Wednesday Night race. Lesson learned: Sometimes engine troubles can be the simplest of things. Feel like such an idiot, but oh well. http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2013/08/stardate-113584.html All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New (replacement) sails
I bought a Tasker cruising genoa this spring, 145%, 7-oz dacron, with foam luff, sunbrella leech/foot; with shipping total was $2200 For a cruising sail it's decent quality, the finishing work is pretty good, my only issue the foot was cut a bit higher than I'd like, but it was half the price of a local loft's dacron equivalent. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/3/2013 11:27 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Marek, I went through this last year. I ended up at a local sail maker just for convenience of service. They came to the boat to measure and to install for the first time. I know a lot of people are really happy with Rolly Tasker from my research. the only negatives i found were people who didn't actually have their sails. Those that did were generally happy through all the threads I read. ...And you could probably save about 30% through them. I have no experience with them other than getting a quote and I have no connection to them. Keep in mind, it is boat show season and most lofts are offering discounts of about 15%. Just call and say you met them at the show. Newport is the weekend of the 14th and Annapolis is in October. Just check the website and see if one of the lofts you are interested in is at the show... Good luck! Danny -- Original Message -- From: "Marek Dziedzic" To: Subject: Stus-List New (replacement) sails Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 10:25:49 -0400 Hi, The decision has been made - we are getting new sails. The ones we have are about 20 years old and even my admiral can see that they are quite blown (stretched). Now the questions start: what kind and where to buy. We are in Ottawa, so there is no local sail loft. Doyle Sail can accept local orders, but I don't expect that they would come to the boat to do the measurements. This opens things up a bit, because suddenly there is no difference between anyone local and buying the sails on-line (or is there?). Regarding where, I was thinking about Rolly Tasker, National Sails Supply, FX Sails (The Sails Store) and a few more. Do you have any recommendations (or horror stories)? Regarding what: - cruising sails (we don't race) - fairly light (I try not to overpower; we reef early or don't sail if it is really blowing (I don't think we sailed over 25 kt) and we need good sails for those days when it is hardly blowing at all). Is 6.5-7 oz Dacron good? too much, too little? - I would like to get 2nd reef on the main - any comments (worth it, not really)? - I am thinking about the 135% genoa; however, I find that what I have is a bit small ( I would have to check if it is really a 135% or is it smaller). I would not go to 150-155%; I don't think I would ever be able to trim it correctly and it would be too much to handle. But what about 140%? I could easily handle a sail with the foot a 1 ft longer. - some vendors offer a transparent window in the sail; others don't. Any thoughts about that? Any other suggestions, ideas, things to think of? thanks Marek ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 35-1 rudder drawings for stranded sailor and NOW how to improve the 35 rudder
That looks like a textbook case of fatigue failure: a local discontinuity causes high stresses and starts a tiny crack, over time the cracks expand in size, causing the "beach" marks, finally what's left isn't strong enough to carry the load and the whole thing breaks. Looking at a larger copy of the photo on the Web, I'm guessing the crack started on the left side where there appears to be some corrosion, and this is right at the point where the shaft exits the hull - which is where the bending load is at the maximum. The crack worked its way across to the right where you see the final fracture marks. I have to wonder about the material, doesn't really look like stainless. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/25/2013 5:06 PM, Rick Taillieu wrote: Joe, By the pictures the shaft sheared off right where it exits the hull. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fnavigatorpirate.livejournal.com%2F%3Fskip%3D10&sandbox=1 It looks like the shaft was cracked about 1/3 through the shaft for a while. Rick Taillieu Nemesis - Original Message - *From:* Della Barba, Joe <mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Sent:* Monday, November 25, 2013 11:09 AM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 35-1 rudder drawings for stranded sailor and NOW how to improve the 35 rudder I would love to know what happened to the original! ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail )
Sorry to nitpick, but to set the record straight, the center of buoyancy(CB) does not have to be above the center of gravity (CG) for positive stability, in fact, most often the CB is below CG. It is correct that when a boat heels, the CB moves towards the low side as more hull is immersed, moving the upward force from buoyancy outboard while the downward weight force at CG stays at the center. This creates the righting moment or couple which returns the boat to the upright condition; this is usually called form stability. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/3/2013 4:58 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Mark; You are probably close in your surmise that the rail meat is very close to being directly over the center of mass of the boat when it reaches 63 degrees of heel. However, there is still a righting moment, though the moment arm is getting short. As it heels, the boat rotates around the center of buoyancy, not the center of mass. The center of buoyancy is above the center of mass (the closer they are when the mast is vertical, the more tender the boat. If the center of mass were above the center of buoyancy, the boat would turn turtle at the slightest provocation.) and the center of buoyancy moves to leeward as the boat heels because of the form stability of the hull. In more modern hulls than ours, with relatively flat bottoms and wide turn of the bilge carried from max beam to well aft, generate a lot of form stability. Hence the center of buoyancy moves quite a bit to leeward as the boat heels, while the center of mass moves some amount to windward. It is the lateral offset between centers of mass and buoyancy that provide resistance to heeling. Paul; I agree with your calculations, except that the length of the moment arms for the rail meat and the weight aloft need to be adjusted slightly to account for the leeward movement of the center of buoyancy. Add a few inches to the righting arm of the rail meat, and subtract the same number of inches from righting arm of the weight aloft. So at 20 degrees of heel, the 10 pounds aloft might have the same effect as 38 or 39 pounds on the rail. Now I've not looked into purchasing any high tech halyards for my 38. What I have (7/16 Cajun XLE) is large enough in diameter to have a good hand and to not creep in the rope clutch. I have a Barient 27 halyard winch to preload luff of the main to 500 pounds or so and take up the stretch in the line when the wind is strong, and I really don't want to put much more load than that on the 3/16ths or ¼ inch Dacron cord that reinforces the luff of the main. If I trim the vang and the traveler right the load on the main from a gust of wind isn't going to change by all that much to generate more than an inch or two of additional, transitory stretch in the halyard. But I have recently purchased floating, high tech spin sheets. They needed to be about the same diameter as the old sheets in order to have acceptable hand and work on the winch drums. My floating lines are way stronger than they need to be, and consequently have no stretch (which, unfortunately, you kind of want in spin sheets). What I found is that the high tech, floating line was more than twice as strong as the old sheets, but only about 4 pounds lighter for 100 feet of line. So the saving for my main halyard would be around 2 pounds. If I went from 7/16ths XLE double braid to 3/8ths Spectra core the strength doubles, the stretch goes from 12 " (@ 1300 pounds of load) to about 3", the halyard costs about $60 more, and the weight savings is about 3 pounds. The way I sail, I don't see that much value. In my experience the racers who salivate over decreasing weight aloft tend to be the same guys who have toothbrushes with the handle cut short, and who leave the seat cushions, locker covers, power cord, and all the beer and ice at the dock in order to save weight. Not that I think they are wrong, it's just that we have a different perspective than I do. Maybe I should think about keeping a cooler full of ice and beer on deck, so it can be moved to the high side of the boat to offset the extra weight of halyards aloft. Now there's an idea that should make the crew happy. Rick Brass *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dr. Mark Bodnar *Sent:* Tuesday, December 03, 2013 10:45 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail ) Add to that the fact that as the boat heels the weight on the rail is also getting closer to the center of mass for the boat I'd guess that at 63 deg heel the rail is likely dead overtop of the center of mass - and thereby providing zero counterbalance. Mark - Dr. Mark Bodnar B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) Bedford Chiropractic www.bedfordchiro.ca <http://www.bedfordchiro.ca> - The
Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail )
Marek: Picture a large cruise ship: its draft might be 10 m, so its vertical center of buoyancy is a little more than 1/2 way from the keel to the waterline, say 6m above the keel. The center of gravity is not only above the center of buoyancy, it's well above the waterline, sometimes 20 m above the keel, yet unless it happens to buzz too close to an Italian island, it will stay upright. Or picture a small sailing dinghy without anyone on it, the CB again is below the waterline, while the CG is well above, but they don't capsize until the sheets are pulled in. A yacht's form stability is the same as a ship's; for sure, adding a keel to a yacht improves the stability by lowering CG, but it does not necessarily put the CG below the CB, in fact it usually doesn't. (There is a point called the metacenter, which is an imaginary point on centerline through which the buoyancy force always acts, that is the point which must stay above the CG for positive stability...but now we're getting deep into naval architecture.) Check out the illustration below: http://www.troldand.dk/en/?The_Yacht:Stability#.UqDzkvIo5Ik Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/5/2013 3:05 PM, Marek Dziedzic wrote: Neil, this cannot be. As Rick said, if the CB was below the CG, the boat would instantly turtle, at the slightest provocation (the state of equilibrium at rest (flat on the water, with the mast upright) would be inherently unstable). Btw. this is why we carry around the heavy keels (to move the CG down). Btw. some newer (acrobatic) dinghies might have the CB and CG very close or inverted (especially when the crew is onboard) and are unstable at rest (they get stabilised by speed and force of the wind), but this is a completely different story. Marek ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 alof=1on the rail )
The notion that the CG must be below the CB is completely correct for a submarine, because a submarine has no waterplane, and so the CB does not shift to the low side when it rolls or heels. In that case, the center of gravity is like a pendulum under the CB and that, and that alone, gives a submerged body stability, or more correctly it will roll to the angle such that the CG is under the CB. The difference for a floating boat is that it has a waterplane with vertical or even outward sloping sides; this means that when it heels, the low side picks up more buoyancy while the high side loses some, making the CB shift sideways to the low side. This gives it the righting moment. The more it heels, the farther the CB shifts to the side, up to the point where the deck edge immerses. Actually, now that I think about it, the best example may be a floating cylinder: its waterplane does /not/ change when it heels or rolls, so it will /not/ have a shift of CB, and just like a submarine, it will roll until the CG is under the CB. However, any conventionally shaped hull can, and most do, have the CG well above the CG, including yachts. So it all comes back to the shape of the hull, thus the "form" stability name. Chuck, no offense, but it's physically impossible for CB to be a foot above the waterline, while displacement always equals buoyancy, as per Achimedes. For a racing yacht with a 50% ballast ratio the CG of the keel alone may be 4' below the WL (my 35-1 is 3.5' below WL, per keel drawing), but the CG of the other half of the weight, including rig and sails, is well above the WL, which typically puts the total CG just about at the WL, thus above the CB. There are some yachts that have CG below CB, but it's not a requirement for positive stability. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/5/2013 8:39 PM, Chuck S wrote: Dwight, Read Neil's email below? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ *From: *"dwight" *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Thursday, December 5, 2013 8:27:05 PM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft=1on the rail ) I know it just seemed so obvious: was there someone who thought differently? *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steve Thomas *Sent:* December 5, 2013 8:51 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft =1on the rail ) That is exactly what he was saying as I read it. -Original Message- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *dwight *Sent:* Thursday, December 05, 2013 7:44 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1on the rail ) Forgive me for this Chuck, but some things seem obvious to me...however, sometimes I get confused...but if buoyancy is ever less than displacement would that not be a submarine or sunken vessel and if COB is below COG would she not be inclined to topple over??? *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck S *Sent:* December 5, 2013 8:38 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail ) Neil, Sorry, I'm heavily biased by life experience, logic, hundreds of books on boats. Read Skene's Elements of Sailboat Design. Center of buoyancy on a keelboat is always above center of gravity. On my boat the CB is a foot above the WL while the CG is 4 feet below. The Drawings prove it. Buoyancy must exceed displacement also. Sailboats face different requirements than cruise ships so should never be compared. Another source: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/centre-gravity-buoyancy-d_1286.html Chuck */Resolute/* 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ ---- *From: *"Neil Gallagher" *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Thursday, December 5, 2013 4:49:53 PM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Now Stability - was List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail ) Marek: Picture a large cruise ship: its draft might be 10 m, so its vertical center of buoyancy is a little more than 1/2 way from the keel to the waterline, say 6m above the keel. The center of gravity is not only above the center of buoyancy, it's well above the waterline, sometimes 20 m above the keel, yet unless it happens to buzz too close to an Italian island, it will stay upright. Or picture a small sailing dinghy without anyone on it, the CB again is below the waterline, while the CG is well above, but they don't c
Stus-List Craigslist 1982 34' $22k
Since we're looking at boats for salethis is in my neighborhood if anyone's interested in following up on it. http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/3621548771.html Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35 Mk1, Glen Cove, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting a Universal
For a new M3-20B, the Universal Operator's Manual gives a table that says hold the preheat switch for approx 10 sec if temperature is 41F/5C or higher, 15 sec if temperature is 41F-23F/5C- -5C, and 20 sec if temp below 23F/-5C. With Universal-supplied panels the preheat switch has to be pressed for the starter button to work, and it (the preheat button) has to be held down until oil pressure builds up, other wise the engine will stop. This was also the same info given in the operators manual for an older 20B-2, which I think was about your engine's vintage, though some engines did not have the oil pressure switch feature. Neil Gallagher 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/15/2013 3:51 PM, David Knecht wrote: I have only had a few tries at starting the M430 engine on my new boat, and I have been told several different stories. One person said to hold the glow plug button for 5-10 seconds and then start. Another said 30 seconds on the glow plug and then leave the button pushed while also pushing the starter. The latter worked when I was first starting the engine after the winter while plugged into shore power. Yesterday I started it for the first time without shore power and found that the starter did not kick at all if I started while also holding the glow plug button. Started find when I let go the glow plug button. What is the "normal" starting procedure with a cold engine in cool weather. Warm weather? Warm engine? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List July 4th - Western Long Island Sound
Edd: I for one will be there, as that location puts you right in the mooring field of Glen Cove Yacht Club, to which I belong. We have an all day BYOB party going on with BBQ grills available, any Listers are welcome to come ashore and join in. VHF Ch 69, ask for me. Neil Gallagher Weatherly C&C 35-Mk 1 Glen Cove, NY On 6/14/2013 11:46 AM, Edd Schillay wrote: Listers, Every year, weather permitting, we take the Enterprise and anchor just behind the breakwater in Hempstead Harbor to swim, relax, eat, drink and watch the fireworks display. As you can see in the YouTube clip below, the fireworks are going off right over the rig -- it's an amazing location to celebrate America's birthday. If you and your C&C are in the area, please consider this an invite to join us and anchor nearby for a great night of fun. The YouTube Clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kc0B9Wi7C_c#action=share My club's flyer with a photo taken last year from the Enterprise (that's my rig): http://morrisybc.com/calendar/13-07-04-fireworks.pdf All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List : winch replacement
The Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches are going on sale for $650 tomorrow at Defender, should you be considering them. They had 16 in stock, 14 now :-) Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35 -1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/22/2014 5:46 PM, Rick Brass wrote: IIRC the Barient 28 is about equivalent to a Lewmar 48 or 54 in terms of power ratio. Have you thought about converting your Barients to self tailers. Winchmate makes a conversion kit for $500 - 550 per winch. Practical Sailor gave a favorable review and I've talked to a couple of people who have them and like them. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Mar 22, 2014, at 17:14, Tim Goodyear wrote: I saw some Lewmar Astor 44 ST winches for sale at $900 at Defender yesterday (they may be gone). Does anyone have an opinion on tees for primary winches on a 35-3 (currently with non-ST Barient 28s)? Thanks, Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 Branford, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - 32
http://www.forespar.com/whisker2011.shtml#C_LIST They don't list a C&C 32 but based on similar length boats looks like Forespar would recommend 10-18 but 7-17 should work, especially if you're using a No. 2. Looking at their prices, $100 is great buy if it's in decent shape. Also consider if it's a twist-lock or a line-control, for a 32 you'd probably want the line control. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 4/4/2014 12:13 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: There's one for sale locally, 7' to 17' extension. I don't have one (but there are chocks/mounts on the deck for one). Is this the right size for a C&C 32? How does a person determine suitable length for a whisker pole? Asking price is $100, this seems pretty cheap?? It's a forespar. Buy?! Thanks, Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - 32
Western LIS PHRF has a 6 sec/mi penalty for a whisker pole longer than the J measurement, but no limit. I just bought a Forespar 12-22, have been non-spin racing with a J-length spinnaker pole and found I usually can not get the No.2 (145%) to fly with it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove NY On 4/4/2014 5:00 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote: BTW, ECSA (Eastern CT PHRF) has removed max length for whisker poles from the regulations (someone mentioned other parts of Long Island Sound may still have restrictions). I only have a spinnaker pole (I mainly race with spin), so that's what I use, but (much) longer is needed to effectively pole out a 155%. My "J" is 13.6'; the #1 would be happy with the clew poled a bit more than 20' out. Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 3:15 PM, Michael Brown <mailto:m...@tkg.ca>> wrote: Well, $100 was pretty cheap. I have a twist lock that I may sell. Since getting the larger line control I have not used it much. As mentioned earlier, even at 17' it is small for a #1. If you would like to race National Yacht Club has a policy of welcoming racers from nearby clubs to join us for week night racing. You could race NFS on Tuesdays, FS on Wednesday, and there is a special beginners NFS on Thursdays. NYC also starts the race for the Alexandra Yacht Club on Thursdays. We have two "Around the Island" weekend races a year with an open invitation. You will need a PHRF-LO certificate and show $2M insurance coverage. If you are getting brave I have a spinnaker I could loan you. Mike Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 14:51:44 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - 32 Message-ID: <mailto:caddevn5ebva9ow1xprcexszmf91jv+jz-thgsuxvrzgsmbe...@mail.gmail.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks Dwight. I haven't raced the boat yet (except for some fun races the club hosts annually). The keelboat racing scene at our small club is dwindling but yeah, I plan to participate in the weekly races this year. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Re: Is the list inactive....
I've been having problems, actually for months. Stopped getting any Stu's list emails in May, rejoined in the summer but didn't get any, and finally rejoined two weeks ago and am now getting them. I sent a reply two days ago and it never appeared, so someone let me know if this doesn't show up ;-) Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/22/2020 9:37 PM, Rick Brass wrote: Or do I have a problem? I’ve not gotten any messages since October 17^th . Five days with nothing from stu’s list is really unusual… and I’m going through C&C withdrawal. Rick Brass Washington, NC October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C owners' email
I've been having in interesting situation: I don't see the first post from many sent to the list (including my own) but I see the responses. That said, let's do all we can to support Stu with this effort, many thanks for the hard work he's put into this list for years and whatever we can do to help (including donations) I'm all in favor. I know there's been an email change and he's working on it. Thanks Stu! Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/30/2020 4:40 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote: This is a test of the C&C email list. I just checked my inbox and the most recent email from the C&C owners' list was on Sunday. Nothing in spam, so I wonder if I was knocked off the list somehow. I'm not being copied, even on an email I sent to the list. Stu said he saw it and several people responded, but it never came to me. And it's not in spam either. If there is something else I need to check, let me know. Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: LIST BUSTED?
Read you loud and clear. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/5/2020 3:29 PM, Tom Buscaglia wrote: No emails today...is the list busted? .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤. Tom & Lynn Buscaglia SV Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
Charlie, I have almost the same setup you have, a solar panel feeding through the controller directly to my house battery, and I have an ACR installed. When the solar panel is putting out current after a few minutes the LED on the ACR lights which shows the two batteries are connected. The voltage on both batteries seems to be the same, though I don't have a battery monitor. I'll check with a meter next time I'm on the boat. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 21:50 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: My boat has a house bank and a starting battery with an ACR controller so that the ‘banks’ are ‘equalized’ when a charging source is available—shore power or engine alternator. I added a solar panel to maintain the batteries without the hazards of leaving the boat on shore power charging when I am not on board. Per local advice, I ran the solar power output controller (MPPT) current thru my cigarette lighter(with the appropriate circuit breaker in the ‘on’ position) and it appears to be working since my house bank (which powers the cigarette lighter) looks like it is 100% charged per my Victron battery monitor after 9 days without a battery charger or running the engine. OTOH, my starting battery voltage sagged over these 9 days of this test to about 90% of maximum per the Victron battery monitor. My understanding of the ACR is that it should distribute charging current to keep both battery banks ‘equalized’ so the lower charge state on the starting battery doesn’t make sense to me. My questions to the list are: 1. Should the ACR be equalizing the charging source current as I discuss above, even when this current might be significantly less than my shore power Xantex 40? 2. If so, why is my starting battery ‘down’? 3. If not, what am I doing wrong? I could hook up the solar directly to the starting battery but with the ACR, this seemed unnecessary (if I understand how an ACR works.) Charlie Nelson 1985 C&C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 35 Mk 2 still winning
http://www.na.northsails.com/tabid/1945/default.aspx?news_id=5546 Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35 Mk 1 Glen Cove, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone
I've also heard that sailing with just the jib is bad but I'm not sure I buy it. When you sail with the main and jib you are not removing the point load from the jib, but adding the distributed load from the main as well. By the way, what has surprised me is how well the 35-1 balances with just the jib (No. 2). In flat water, 10-12 kts breeze, I can let go of the wheel and the boat sails herself for 5 min or more. Maybe my rig is out of balance? Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/19/2014 12:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: All, Earlier this week I went out for a lazy sail after work. Unfurled the jib in 10 knots of wind and decided I was too lazy to remove the main cover and hoist the main. I've read that sailing under only jib is bad because it places an uneven load on the rigging. Seems to me that the load is minimal in light air and the total load is a lot less under one sail. Thoughts? Joel 35/3 Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C Northeast Rendezvous 2015
Edd, I'll be willing to help out with the 2015 Rendezvous. Notwithstanding my location, I think the CT shoreline is preferable to Long Island, given that many will drive and we know what driving on a summer weekend on LI can be like. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/23/2014 11:49 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, With the paint barely dry on the 2014 Northeast Rendezvous, I'd like to start planning the 2015 event. As I've mentioned, with the 2012 event in Mystic, the 2013 event at Block Island and with the 2014 event in Newport, I think we need to move the group into LI Sound before we end up in Maine, Greenland or the UK. Please take a minute or two and fill out this survey: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/9L7SD97 Personally, I think a place with slips and a wealth of amenities (rec area, pool, showers, restaurant) would be a preference, but if you have other thoughts, I'd like to hear them. I have a pretty good idea in my head on what I'd like the rendezvous to be, but, as I tell my race crew: I may not always be right, but I'm never in doubt. If you wish to volunteer to help, I will be happy to take you up on it. Finally, a big thank you to all those who have worked so hard to make the past three events such an amazing success. It's such a great group of people and my only complaint is that we don't get together more often. Well, that, and where to store all these Mohegan Sun Cheese Boards All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing
David, Let me address one issue - the teak and holly cabin sole on my boat had the identical issue as this boat you're considering, it had sat on the ground for some time with water above the sole (fortunately below the A4 front crankshaft "seal"...). This spring I finally addressed it by using a paint stripper to remove what was left of the varnish, hit with an orbital sander w/60 grit and took off all the faded wood - total thickness is 3/8" so not big deal - and refinished it. It came out beautifully, if I may so myself. That item shouldn't be a show stopper, just a little elbow grease. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/25/2014 7:37 PM, David Roberts via CnC-List wrote: I have posted about this boat a few times to this list a got great feedback, so here I go again. I am looking at a 1989 C&C 37/40 +; 7.25' draft; two spreader, so we are talking about the cruiser not XL or R, I am thinking still fast. Any how the boat needs new upholstery, all new running rigging, the traveler is stiff even though there is no load on it (mast is down.) I have not had a chance to look at the sails yet but the description list them as: Main (Sobstad, Dacron,) Good Condition #3 Jib(North, Dacron)Like New #2 Jib(Sobstad, Dacron) Good Condition #2 Jib (North, Dacron) Excellent Condition Cruising spinnaker with sock (North, Nylon) Good Condition So I am thinking I may have to replace the Main soon, there is no mention of a #1, Is that normal not to have a #1 on this boat? The boat has not been in the water for 7 years. The deck and hull seem to show normal wear as to what I would expect for a 26 yr old boat. The engine looks like it may have been overheated at some point. The teak and holly flooring in the salon area has been refinished and my understanding is that the boat was not covered the first year it was on the hard at the dealer and it filled the bilge and beyond with water and ruined the floors. So maybe I should be concerned with the hull If it froze. There are a large number of little repairs that need attention. Lastly the stern looks like it has been bumped a number of times so that rear edge needs repair. I have been watching this boat for 2 years now, just as I started a new business so buying a boat was out of the question four years ago. I have been sure that someone would come along and buy it. Once they move the boat inside to buff it out and give a good cleaning; made a repair or two, when I saw it was gone my heart dropped. I later found out that they did not sell it. Now that the business is coming along and we can make the payment I am wondering why it has not sold. Maybe it is the 7.25' draft is an issue on Lake Michigan we are up 18' this year but the past 10 years we have been trending down. There are a lot of smaller harbors you can't get in with that draft. That is not a problem for hardcore racers. They don't go to those harbors, but I don't think they would be interested in the Std rig. We race beer can, a few port to ports, and cruise. They are asking $79K but I don't think that is anywhere close to a good number. I have been in my current boat for 15 years so it has been some time sense I have been in the buyers chair. Do I get the survey first, or make an offer and if it is accepted then get the survey. But how do I determine a value without the survey? I am interested in what others have paid recently for the same model and what condition it was in. I am try to come to a fair offer. David Roberts (224) 280-6217 ddr1...@gmail.com <mailto:ddr1...@gmail.com> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 2015 Northeast Rendezvous Dates Question
Late August, or even Labor Day. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove NY On 10/3/2014 10:05 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, In looking at the September 2015 calendar, knowing I can't do the weekend of the 18th, I'm left with three possible weekends: September 12-13 (the 13th is the first night of Rosh Hashanah --- problem?) September 26-27 (too late in the year --- too cold?) Labor Day Weekend (Could work, especially if I book early enough) Please let me know your thoughts... Hailing frequencies open. On screen. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
I just made such an arrangement similar to what Josh described. Bought a left and right hand ascender, and put a toe loop on each. Used one halyard to pull up a line with a knot in the middle to the top of the mast, and tied off the lower end of each part, tightly, at the deck. Then put one ascender/toe loop on each part of the line. Took a second halyard to a bosun's chair, with a short loop to a climbing harness as a safety. Was then easy to use both hands and feet to pull up on the ascenders/foot loops, while my wife took the slack up on the chair halyard using a winch. Then I could sit back on the chair while I slid the ascenders/toe loops higher on the two parts, and repeat. The nice part was that coming down, I took the ascenders off and she just payed out the chair on the winch, and the really nice part was that I could get my head above the top of mast by standing on the toe loops. One worthwhile addition was to put a small carabiner in each toe loop around the side lines, keeps the toe loops under the ascenders. I'm going to try this weekend to climb without the chair, it would mean alternately lifting one side at a time, and will still want the second line a a safety/belay to the harness. The price was about $70 each for the ascenders (new at REI), $60 for the harness and about $30 for the toe loops. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/16/2014 8:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: The ATN top climmer has worked pretty well for me but I would not buy one. The TC is simply two Gibbs ascenders attached custom bosun's chair and 60' or 70' of 1/2" rope. They arrangement of the ascenders is such that the chair is attached to the top on and a foot strap is attached to the bottom one. Standing up on the foot straps allows you to raise the upper ascender which brings the chair tight to your butt. Sit down in the chair and now you can bend your knees to raise the lower ascender. You inchworm your way up the rope. The rope that was tied to the mast collar on deck and winched taught to the top of the mast. One could safely use a halyard pull the rope tight. Tight is key. No stretch rope is also key. I would look to MAKE a similar system but using rock climbing ascenders (gibbs or otherwise). I would also use a rock climbing harness as a primary and maybe take a comfortable bosun's chair of choice to the top IF I was going to be there for more than 10 min. The ascenders cost $30-50. Rope $50-70. Harness $50-100. Gear can be found at EMS.com or instore. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Listers, Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what did you use. There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it's on my mind. And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the mast. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust mixing elbow
Dave, I put a Universal M30-B in my club launch two years ago, and it had a mixing "elbow" supplied loose, I had to add a 2" long pipe between the manifold and the elbow. If you go to page 13 of the manual in the link below, you'll see it. Not sure if the M4-30 has the same, as the manual on the westerbeke site for that engine doesn't show one, but the engine I took out of our launch was a 1990's vintage Universal and it had the same thing. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManuals/201009_m3_20b_parts.pdf On 11/15/2014 12:49 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: Unless your boat has a dry exhaust -- not likely -- you have a way to mix exhaust and water somewhere. At least back in the Atomic 4 days Universal did not make mixing elbows, so the installer was left to buy or fabricate one. Mine is made of black iron pipe from Home Depot and I try and remember to replace it every 5 years or so. Follow the coolant hoses and you will find one going into the exhaust somehow. Whatever that hose connects to is the mixing device. Having a diesel you will not have a jacketed exhaust like some 1960s era C&Cs did. Those only work on gasoline engines because diesel exhaust corrodes through the copper pipe those were made of. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> COQUINA C&C 35 MK I *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, November 15, 2014 9:27 AM *To:* Robert Abbott; CnC CnC discussion list *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exhaust mixing elbow This discussion made me think about the situation on my boat with a Universal M4-30. I looked at the engine diagram and parts list online and found no mention of a mixing elbow. Is this a Yanmar specific issue? If so, how does the Universal handle exhaust? Dave On Nov 15, 2014, at 9:11 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: On 2014/11/13 8:23 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote: John Your mixing elbow is original ie 32 years old..I am assuming it has spent its life in a 'salt water environment'. If so, there has to be some corrosion taking place on the inside. A mixing elbow is not an expensive item and if you have taken yours off and put it back on, then do yourself a favor and replace it before it fails at the most inopportune time. In 2012, a fellow club member with a 1984 C&C 32 had his mixing elbow 'split' at the top of elbow spewing salt water and gases into his engine compartment while motoring up the coast. He made it back to the club O.K. but he then lost several weeks in the sailing season getting someone to replace it for him. I took his old mixing elbow and cut it open to examine it..while the outside wall looked fine, the inside was in pretty rough shape. And the problem wasn't carbon buildup but salt water corrosion. The following season, I replaced mine..I deem it preventable maintenance and what will eventually fail. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. Our 34 has the original Yanmar 3GM which is working like a charm. How does one tell if the mixing elbow is due for replacement??. Ours still has the original mixing elbow which we removed and inspected about 12 years ago. It was fine. Lots of water comes out the exhaust and engine performance is fine. Engine is used mostly for motoring in and out of the mooring field with periodic runs of an hour or so to get to the starting line. I was thinking of removing the hose and use a mirror and spot light to look inside?? John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list
Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C & C 30-1
I found the situation this spring in my pump just as Dennis described. Inside the Whale pump the internal threads for the screws holding the flapper in place were eaten away, making the pump junk. I replaced it with a Whale Mk 5 plastic pump, for about the half the price as the die-cast Whale. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/17/2014 1:46 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Ron, You're probably right, chances are it's a Whale Gusher Titan underdeck mount (BP4410). If it's an alloy version, I'd dis-assemble it before buying any parts. You may find the sealing surfaces are pitted. If so, it can't be repaired and work reliably. I've been down this road before. This is a piece of important safety equipment that needs to work. I replaced the one on Touche' a few years ago. Before installing, I dis-assembled the new one and coated all the alloy parts liberally with TefGel. Each spring I clean the bilge thoroughly and pump the bilge out with the Gusher leaving dock water, not salt or brackish water in the pump body. This pump may now be made of plastic. If so, the issue of corrosion goes away. Also, the price difference between a rebuild kit and a new pump doesn't justify rebuilding. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 9:31 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working. It's the original pump located on the cockpit floor. I suspect the diaphram is ruptured. I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher??? Any idea where parts can be found? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 35-1 for sale
http://www.boatquest.com/listing/134563/1970-35-ft-dot--c--c-35-mark-i.html#.VG9t-PIo6po Some interesting features for a 35-1...inboard shrouds, running backs. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 35-1 for sale
I'm pretty sure this boat also has a Brit Chance designed deep-fin keel, its PHRF base rating is 117 vs. 126 because of that. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/21/2014 1:43 PM, Dennis C. wrote: If indeed that is a 35-1, that is one tricked out 35-1! Suspect it will sell quickly at that price. Yeah, inline shrouds. However, 61' air clearance? 126 beam? 42 LOA? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: http://www.boatquest.com/listing/134563/1970-35-ft-dot--c--c-35-mark-i.html#.VG9t-PIo6po Some interesting features for a 35-1...inboard shrouds, running backs. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts
I'd be interested in the answer to that question as well. I do know that on the 35-1, the sump under the mast step is molded into the hull, and the aft part of that sump is the mating surface to the downward sloping forward end of the keel, the source of the smile. The forwardmost 3/4" bolt goes through wood blocks under a thin upper layer of fiberglass that are fitted into the aft part of the sump. (Don't ask me how I know, but it had something to do with an awful crunching sound that happened when I torqued the 3/4" bolt...). I have the construction drawing for the 35-1, from South Shore, it shows the wood in the sump but not too much detail about the area under the six 1" bolts aft -it refers to another plan. It implies that that the six "pedestals", for lack of better word, in the bilge on which the nuts bear are part of the bottom of the hull molding and the lead is directly in contact on the outside, ie., there's no stub or spacer between the hull and lead, but it's not clear. I too would like to know what's actually there -anyone? Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/26/2014 5:51 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: Thanks. I forgot to mention tightening the keel bolts is NOT done in the water! Does anyone know if the 35 MK I and II keel stub is glassed on after the fact or molded as part of the hull? Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina C&C 35 MK I -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:18 PM To: Will Harris; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts Thanks for the advice: On Nov 26, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Will Harris via CnC-List wrote: I've been following the conversation about Keel Bolts and cracks. While we didn't build your boats, I do have some general advice... Cracks - It is easy to think that a crack indicates something is breaking. Really, it means that something HAS BROKEN. A crack around the keel is potentially very serious. If it is just the C&C smile, not as serious, but if you find cracks in the laminate, or the structure or any of the tabbing, get it looked at! They will not heal themselves, and the consequences are really, really bad. Addressed early, the repairs may not even be too expensive. When I get on the hard in the spring i can check where the cracks are coming from and how serious they are (I hope) Torque In some of these threads, it seems like people are going to extremes torqing up the nuts. My guess is that you are trying to lift the keel up to the hull with the nuts. Don't do that! I don't know the exact bolts you may have, so I can't give you exact numbers, but that information is easy to find. All over torquing does is increases the odds of stripping, galling or breaking a bolt. Even if you don't cause your keel to fall off, breaking a bolt is a huge headache. I agree. There is no point in over torquing and trying to lift the keel while the boat is in the water seems difficult and senseless. The proper tool is the Travellift and a good operator. To re-seat the keel, make sure that the travellift sits the hull down flush on the keel. The nuts are just there to keep it there. We will see what happens in the spring!! Happy Thanksgiving Hope you all have a Happy Thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey!! Bill Will Harris C&C Yachts ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stability Factor
There's a spreadsheet a few posts down at this site, sorting the data by Class shows C&C 35-3 have a range of ORR SI from 117 to 122. http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/perils-edgy-design-offshore-38903-30.html Otherwise, it takes lines plans, weight data and calculations... Neil Gallagher 35 Mk1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/5/2015 3:48 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: All, I need to certify that my boat has a stability factor under ORR of 110 or more, IRC of 28 or more or STYX of 32 or more. Does anyone know the stability factor for a 35 Mk III or how to find it? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole, trending to whisker pole
Barbara, The two are really quite different, in that the spinnaker pole is made to withstand very high compressive loads, especially when beam or close reaching. Under those situations, an extendable whisker pole would not be able to take the load. The whisker pole when holding the clew of the genoa outboard, sees a much lower compressive load. You could use just the spinnaker pole as a whisker pole on the genny, which some people do, but it's really not long enough. I went the other route a year ago as I don't fly a spinnaker; I had been using a 14' spinnaker pole with a No. 2 jib, and it never flew well at all, sometimes I had to furl a bit of the jib to keep it full. With a 22' whisker pole, it fills very well. Neil Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/6/2015 9:07 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List wrote: I have a spinnaker pole onboard as well as a Forespar adjustable whisker pole, both stored on deck. Could I not just use the whisker pole at the allowable (14') length for a spinnaker pole and get rid of the spin pole altogether? For PhRf racing. /Barbara Hickson Fellers / ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
Vote: List Stu, if the costs are not covered routinely by donations, I suggest you let us know that too. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/13/2015 5:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote: Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a "Forum" similar to "cruisersforum" or "sailnet" instead of an email list (like this one). PROS: 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails. 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads. 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums. 5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked. 6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit. CONS: 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional enhancements. 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. () 3. Installation -- I've done it before and it does take some time. And a bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. Bottom line -- would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It does not matter to me. Stu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Rob, I bought a Rocna 15 (33 lb) for my 35-1, which weighs (reportedly) 10,500 lb, and it works great. Looking at the Rocna chart for 33'/8,700 lb, (10m, <4t) the 22lb is the recommended size. Looks to me like you're in the right size range. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/5/2015 11:38 PM, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List wrote: My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sheaves for 35 MK1
Kyle, I made the switch from wire to rope on my 35-1 without changing the sheaves. Works fine, no sign of unusual wear. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/8/2015 2:27 PM, Kyle Mello via CnC-List wrote: Hello, I have a 72 C&C 35 MK1 and I am looking fora advice on where to get some replacement sheaves. I am switching to rope from wire halyards. I have looked online and called Hall in my home town of Bristol without any luck. There are 3 sheaves that need to be replaced. See dimensions below. 2 larger sheaves are 4.1" in diameter or 104 mm center hole is 1/2" thickness is 1/2" Small sheave (main sail) 3.5" diameter center hole is 3/8" thickness is 7/16 As far as I can tell the boat was made in Canada by George Hinterholler. Any input would be helpful. -Kyle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sheaves for 35 MK1
I use 3/8" for main and jib. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/8/2015 3:05 PM, Kyle Mello via CnC-List wrote: That's great news. Did you switch your main halyard to 3/8's or 7/16? On Fri, May 8, 2015 at 2:58 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Kyle, I made the switch from wire to rope on my 35-1 without changing the sheaves. Works fine, no sign of unusual wear. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/8/2015 2:27 PM, Kyle Mello via CnC-List wrote: Hello, I have a 72 C&C 35 MK1 and I am looking fora advice on where to get some replacement sheaves. I am switching to rope from wire halyards. I have looked online and called Hall in my home town of Bristol without any luck. There are 3 sheaves that need to be replaced. See dimensions below. 2 larger sheaves are 4.1" in diameter or 104 mm center hole is 1/2" thickness is 1/2" Small sheave (main sail) 3.5" diameter center hole is 3/8" thickness is 7/16 As far as I can tell the boat was made in Canada by George Hinterholler. Any input would be helpful. -Kyle ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List replacing furling line
On my Harken furler the line goes down through a small hole near the center of the rope drum, I just feed it through and put a figure eight knot in it. The knot has to be tight to fit into the space below the drum, but that's all there is to it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 7/22/2015 11:29 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: Thanks; but I was thinking more of the actual steps of removing the old line and putting the new one in. I.e. where are the set screws? Do I need to take the drum off? Any special tools needed? etc. On my old boat, I had a Furlex and it was simple -- there was a set screw (you needed a torx driver) and that's it. On this one, I have a problem finding how the line is attached. Marek *From:* David via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2015 10:36 AM *To:* CNC CNC <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:* David <mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List replacing furling line I used simple dacron braided and stripped the core for the line that wraps on the furling drum. It helps lay the line flat and reduces problems in the drum. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2015 10:06:48 -0400 Subject: Stus-List replacing furling line From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: dziedzi...@hotmail.com I need to replace the furling line in my Harken Unit 00 furler. I have the manual, but the instructions are very vague. I would appreciate any hints, if anyone of you have done this before. One more thing: the instruction call for securing the line with a "hog ring". Is there an easy way of doing it? I am not about to buy a special tool and a load of 1000 fasteners to use just one. thanks for your help Marek C270, "Legato" in Ottawa ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 46 Days to the C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous
Edd, Sorry, I know you addressed this, but what is the workaround for the Captcha image verification? Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35 Mk 1 Glen Cove, NY On 7/27/2015 10:55 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, Just 46 days to go to the C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous --- See cnc2015.com <http://cnc2015.com>. * Floating private dock * Power / Water * Pool / Hot Tub * Recreation Area * Ship's Store / Mechanics on Site * Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall * Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT * Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet * Reserve Online at cnc2015.com <http://cnc2015.com> * Special Surprise Guest Attending Long forward to seeing you there. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched terminal of the glow plug button. You are supposed to to have to push the glow plug switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the glow plug switch also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil pressure builds up, and silences the low oil pressure alarm. Once the oil pressure rises, its switch powers the fuel pump. I put an M30B in our club launch and it has the same setup. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/10/2015 11:15 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button. When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine. My father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting things: 1. The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function. We then tested power at the engine. There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery to the starter measured 12V. The red-yellow wire from the start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid). We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else. So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won't work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid. I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative suggestion. 2. The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other lead to the start button. The manual shows that wire running from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes). If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the start button. Nevertheless, it does start the engine. Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work independently as both are always powered. What I don't understand is why you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an already warm engine). I don't know if the PO or some yard mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired. The way it is actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something. Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?
Dave, The chocks at the partners are fairly important. Most of the force from the shrouds and stays are is pushing down on the mast, a "column" load. The wedges or chocks at the partners keep the the mast in line vertically, which greatly reduces it's tendency to go out of column under the vertical load. Most likely nothing severe would happen if you sailed without them, but they're not just a tuning item, they serve a fundamental purpose. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/6/2015 4:05 PM, davepulaski via CnC-List wrote: So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav table that I can only assume are the chocks for where the mast passes through the deck. Which obviously means the yard didn't put them in when they stepped the mast because they didn't know they existed. So my question is, is it a Big Deal to go sailing without them? As in, will it do any damage to anything? I'd rather not undo my nicely sealed mast boot and have to loosen the rig and start all over if I don't have to. I don't care if the rig isn't in perfect tune without them, just curious if I can get away with being lazy and not hurting anything in this instance. My mainsail should be back from the loft in a couple days and I really want to get out. What say ye? -Dave ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List REGISTRATION EXTENDED -- C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous (Clinton, CT)
Let me add my thanks as well. It was a really nice group of C&C'rs, great to meet some of the names on the list in person. Stu made a comment of how unusual it is that this list, compared to others, has almost no flaming or arguing. Having met some of listers I can see why, just great people sharing their interest in these great boats. Thank you Edd, and Stu! Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/14/2015 10:57 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote: I would like to thank Edd and co-organizers for getting a great group of people and boats together over last weekend in Clinton. It was wonderful to finally meet Stu in-person, to exchange stories with other C&C owners and to see some really interesting boats. The tasty whisky, rum, cigars and food were the icing on the cake (until the morning after). Thank you! Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Sep 3, 2015 at 10:04 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Listers, The 2015 C&C Rendezvous is next week and _*/today and until noon tomorrow are the last days to register/*_ --- See cnc2015.com <http://cnc2015.com>. (For those of you who cannot attend, I apologize for all of the event reminder emails.) * Floating private dock * Power / Water * Pool / Hot Tub * Recreation Area * Ship's Store / Mechanics on Site * Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall * Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT * Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet * Great Giveaways (Schtuff and Swag)! * Reserve Online at cnc2015.com <http://cnc2015.com> * Special Surprise Guest Attending --- Want to know who? Here's your hint: He has been associated with C&C Yachts for 20 years but never worked for them. He has owned two C&C Yachts but does not have one now. Everybody knows him by name but nobody knows what he looks like or where he lives. * Extended Weather Outlook: Dry and Above-Average Temps --- Perfect! We now have 10 C&Cs with 25 attendees so far with room for more. Don't miss this great opportunity to put faces to the names, see other's modifications, and enjoy the camaraderie of C&C owners! Some modifications that may be of interest: A HF Ham Radio Installation and a Complete Diesel Engine Repower. Event Flyer (post at your clubs or on other C&Cs): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf Hope to see you there! All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigid vang
Mark, You might want to consider a boom kicker if you already have a vang. It just keeps the boom up and eliminates the topping lift. I'm really happy with mine, though I always put the main halyard on the aft end of the boom when the sail's down. http://www.boomkicker.com/ Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/29/2015 5:33 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote: Thinking about projects for the boat. I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with Marek's Garhauer suggestion. But that then raises the idea of a rigid boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to combine shipping. I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to hold down the boom). Currently boat is set up with a topping lift (which need to be replaced due to wear) I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?). Any thoughts? I've never used a rigid vang. People happy with them? Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings - but maybe I should be adjusting it more? Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Vinyl letters - experiences?
I used the Boat US graphics, worked great. On their website you just enter the letters, fonts, colors, etc, and they mail you the entire name on a plastic sheet. You peel off a protective cover, place the sheet on the hull, press down, peel off the sheet and the letters are perfectly placed. I've had mine on for six years and they still look great. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/22/2015 12:24 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Speaking of vinyl letters, I believe there is a difference in quality and service life of vinyl letters depending on suppliers. The first decal I had on Touche' looked good for over ten years. I removed it to repaint the topsides. I have also had several iterations of the Touche' logo on the side windows of my SUV's. The first set of decals was made by a local sign company. This company does the local police and sheriff's vehicles. The last few I had made at one of the nationwide quickie sign companies. IMO, the decal made by the local company seemed to last longer. I'm considering using BoatUS or going back to the local sign company for the next set of decals. I have the logo digitally in several common formats so I can deal with most suppliers. Anybody got any light to shed on this subject? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windstar II Mast Step Repair
Brad, Leeward shrouds going slack, though a bit unnerving at first, is perfectly normal in our kind of rigs. The windward shrouds are doing all the work. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/8/2015 11:41 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote: Quite a thorough blog, and really appreciate the pictures, makes it all seem do-able. Thanks for having the forethought to document the process. I'm now officially worried! I have issues with the leeward shrouds going slack (very) in anything 10+ knots. I've checked tension (Loos Gauge) at the dock several times and they are always the same. It scares me to see them flopping about. I haven't checked torque on the keel bolts and I don't have a big "C&C smile" almost invisible in fact. I do see some very fine lines at the hull to keel pit joint towards the stern. Could this just be hull flex? Or symptoms of a soft mast step? I guess I should talk to the marine repair guys and have them take a look. Thanks for the Blog Brad 1985 C&C 33 MK II "PULSE" Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, from my iPad! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?
I'm not familiar with the layout of the LF38, but, FWIW, on my 35-1 I have found (find) water outboard of the panels under my quarter berth and also under the settee, and the source is the joint between the hull and deck. Once I tightened up the nuts/bolts that hold the toe rail and the joint together, the leaks stopped. Just have to be careful not overdo it and squeeze out the Butyl sealant, but it's kind of a routine maintenance job. May have happened on your boat in the past. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/7/2015 4:00 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote: So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one. Please see pictures here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NNVBhbXpEZnhkUE0&usp=sharing As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. It's a 2-3 foot section of the port engine compartment wall, abutting the storage compartments under the port quarterberth. One thing I'm perplexed on is - how did this happen? There are no leaks dripping onto this area as far as I can tell. The cockpit is above this and it doesn't have any major penetrations on this side. And the top of the bulkhead is solid. Normally when wood rots I expect it to start from the top, where the leak is. The only clue I have is this bulkhead had two cuts / gaps in the bottom (probably to run wires through) and that's where the rot seems to have spread out from. So maybe the moisture got in through the exposed grain at the cut? There is high humidity in the engine compartment due to inevitable moisture in there. But also the rot is right behind the batteries (house #1 + starter), which I find suspicious. Is it possible the gel cells outgassing actually caused the damage somehow? From the pictures do you think this might be "dry rot"? (a particularly evil kind of rot which apparently spreads by fungus even without an active water leak anymore) If it's spreading I want to cut out the bad portion of the bulkhead and glass in new wood asap. If it's not spreading I can put it off, or even ignore it since it's not structural. I could even just paint over it with new waterproof marine paint? If I have to cut it out, access will be tough - it's in the engine space, I'll have to remove the batteries, some wiring, and probably the exhaust lift riser, and the panel that covers the aft quarterberth storage compartments. The other thing is I can't even tell what kind of wood this was originally. It doesn't seem as strong as marine plywood or the wood used in other bulkheads. The bad wood seems sort of grey / bluish colored - I'm not sure if that's from the flaked off white paint or what. The other option is trying Git Rot injected into holes drilled into it. http://www.boatlife.com/git-rot/ At this point mainly wondering if any of you have experience with this issue, particularly in this area (non-structural, between engine compartment and aft qtrberth storage compartments) or how something like this can happen (rotting from the bottom up rather than top down)? -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 Seattle, WA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
When I replaced my leaking aluminum tank I used a plastic tank, luckily it's translucent enough that now I can just look at the tank and see the level. I never go closer than 1" - 2" from the top when filling. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/14/2015 5:04 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Jonathan, I rely mostly on sound and looking down the fill pipe when the pitch changes. Far from perfect! Joel On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Indigo via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before the fill pipe overflows! How do others make sure the tank is full without causing a small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!) -- Jonathan Indigo C&C 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend. The vent hose is looped under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher than the thru-hull under the toe-rail. Once again, the guys in Niagara on the Lake got it right! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the vent line. If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it. I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not causing an issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would leave the owner wondering how a gallon of water got in. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500 From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources Message-ID: <mailto:canir%2byuaaje1sv22q-zyknk_hzhxdywdznvha6fucykmssw...@mail.gmail.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" While we're on the subject, two other things to check: 1. Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring 2. Fuel fill cap if plastic. It could be cracked. Dennis C. Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900 From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents Message-ID: mailto:w...@mail.gmail.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Michael, I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work. Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and a fluid sensor added. In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the vent inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion. I don't think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset
I use the same, depth sounder shows water depth to compare to charts. If I recall correctly, in my Raymarine setup I adjusted for the depth of the transducer below the waterline, and since I have clear hoses on my cockpit drains I was able to get a decent estimate of transducer's depth. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/20/2015 3:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why. I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth. I prefer to compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than have to do the math all the time. I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under keel while others don't use any offset at all. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Zinc decay
David, I'm at the other end of Long Island Sound, and I too noticed an unusually rapid deterioration of my shaft zinc. Usually it's only 1/2 gone over the whole season, but this year I could see it going much faster over the summer and it was totally gone, as is not there, when I was hauled out. I haven't given it much thought until your post, but the water quality in LI Sound was different this year than in the recent past. It was much more clear, and there was an incredible amount of fish in the Sound, even humpback whales in Hempstead Harbor. Not sure if that has anything to do with increased galvanic activity, but now I'm wondering. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/26/2015 12:40 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: We are at the end of the Thames River where it enters Long Island Sound, but there is no current and it is pretty much salt water as far as I can tell. We had so little rain last summer that I can't imagine it was lower salinity that previous years. Dave On Dec 26, 2015, at 12:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Any chance there was more or less rain or tributary flow? Boatzincs.Com <http://Boatzincs.Com> provides guidance for the use of aluminum, zinc and magnesium anodes based on protected metals and salinity. If the water became more or less saltymaybe?? Josh Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem
Steve, Not sure of just what .dwg you're referring to, but I was able to create a .pdf file by downloading one of the Autocad drawings on the Edison website: "Assembly 6" Sheave", file name "Mcd-620-6". If you tell me which file you need, I should be able to send you a .pdf file of it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/4/2016 4:41 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote: To any lister with AutoCAD experience: The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all that prints. The help files have not been helpful in printing, but at least I can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to be ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase one for a reasonable price. Steve Thomas C&C36 MKI Merritt Island, FL - Original Message - *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *To:* C&C List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:* Gary Russell <mailto:captnga...@gmail.com> *Sent:* Sunday, January 03, 2016 22:56 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate Dennis, Interesting idea. The file is the problem, however. Gary ~~~_/)~~ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem
Steve, It appears the original files may not have been created in Autocad, which might be why you were having trouble plotting them out. I'll send you the .pdf prints by private email. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/4/2016 10:28 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote: I am sure that it is something I am doing wrong, since I got the Trueview product from Autodesk. The file is here: http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/cad/dwg/Mcd_776_4_Adjustable_Crossed_Wire_Idler.dwg I can see it in both the model and layout tabs, as downloaded, but it won't print for me. Thanks, Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON C&C36 MKI Merritt Island, FL - Original Message - *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher <mailto:njgallag...@optonline.net> *Sent:* Monday, January 04, 2016 10:03 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem Steve, Not sure of just what .dwg you're referring to, but I was able to create a .pdf file by downloading one of the Autocad drawings on the Edison website: "Assembly 6" Sheave", file name "Mcd-620-6". If you tell me which file you need, I should be able to send you a .pdf file of it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/4/2016 4:41 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote: To any lister with AutoCAD experience: The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all that prints. The help files have not been helpful in printing, but at least I can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to be ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase one for a reasonable price. Steve Thomas C&C36 MKI Merritt Island, FL - Original Message - *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *To:* C&C List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:* Gary Russell <mailto:captnga...@gmail.com> *Sent:* Sunday, January 03, 2016 22:56 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate Dennis, Interesting idea. The file is the problem, however. Gary ~~~_/)~~ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon GX2200
Had it for two years, great radio. Especially the built-in GPS/AIS receiver, very nice feature. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/7/2016 6:55 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote: Currently I just day-sail with minimal electronics (VHF, GPS, and cellphone - all hand-held) but am looking to do some coastal cruising (US Southeast) within the next year. I am looking at the GX2200 as a nice addition. The GPS Store has it for $300 plus a $40 mail in rebate. http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-GX2200-Matrix-AIS-with-GPS-P3968.aspx Thoughts and opinions appreciated as always. --Bob Moriarty Ox 1976 33-1 Jax, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Testing DSC
Josh, Your reply brings up a question I have for someone familiar with DSC. I've been looking for a way to monitor my boat's position when I leave it unattended on the hook. If I have a handheld with DSC programmed with the same MMSI as the fixed VHF on the boat, can I query, with the hand held, the boat's VHF to find its GPS coordinates? Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/15/2016 8:53 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: In the US you can get the MMSI for recreational vessels through boatus. Just Google MMSI BoatUS. SeaTow offers voice radio checks. Find their website to get a map of nearby locations and associated channel. It is a voice recording and playback system so you hear back your own transmission. DSC is most easily tested with another DSC radio that has been programmed with a different MMSI (read: friend's boat). That's an important point since the MMSI is assigned to the boat and all the DSC radios on that boat are supposed to be programmed to the same MMSI. Well what if I just took my portable and DSC called my fixed? Well often times the radios are designed to ignore DSC requests from their own MMSI. Makes sensesorta. For recreational vessels in the US no license is required. The voice function of the radio should work fine without programming the MMSI. I've never heard of a mandate to program the MMSI. I could be wrong on the last point but then how would anyone know? Same with the requirement to monitor channel 16. What if I don't? Prove it. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 14, 2016 11:15 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Bob, You need to program your MMSI (an identifier you get when you register the radio). In Canada (and I bet in the US) in order to operate a DSC radio you are required to have the DSC endorsed radio operator's licence. Without the MMSI your DSC function does not work - it is like a phone without an assigned number. If I recall correctly, it is illegal to use the radio without registering it and acquiring the MMSI number. And if you don't program the MMSI, the radio would probably not work at all (it should prompt you constantly to enter that number). In order to use the point to point transmission (not any of the Distress or Urgency calls) you have to know the other party's MMSI. Preferably, you want to have it programmed into your radio (so you can select it, like from a "Contacts" list in your phone). Ch. 70 is used SOLELY for digital handshake between the DSC radios. Using that channel for any conversations is prohibited. I am afraid that you won't be able to make the DSC call to the passing barges unless you know their MMSI (or can look it up). Good luck Marek *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *bobmor99 . via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, January 14, 2016 21:05 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:* bobmor99 . mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>> *Subject:* Stus-List Testing DSC Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200. DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am wondering how to test/learn it without triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos. I'm docked in a backwater, but there is occasional barge traffic that probably has AIS transmitters. I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily communicate (via channel 70?) with the barges as they pass by. Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but am wondering if anyone else has done this exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas. Many thanks in advance, --Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...
If all you want to do is get rid of the topping lift, you might consider just adding a Boomkicker, which only keeps the boom from falling down. Then you could keep your manual vang, would cost quite a bit less. I'm happy with that arrangement, though I always put my main halyard on the end of the boom once the main is down in case someone decides to swing on the boom or something like that. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/28/2016 12:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote: Here's another post to get some experience-based advising. I am looking to purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is always in the way of everything. I will also replace the blocks/line I have as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't want hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them. There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc. Some are less expensive but appear the same. Thoughts? *Chuck Saur* Morning Sky C&C 35-3 Hessel Michigan ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing size issue
http://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/CutlessBearingMS.pdf Above link shows commonly available sizes. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 2/11/2016 5:23 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote: Attempting to replace cutlass bearing. Shaft is 1.25" ID of the strut where the bearing goes is 1.625", which by my calculation is 1 and 5/8. I cannot find a bearing that is 1 1/4 X 1 5/8. Only 1 1/4 X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 Cant find metric equivalent either. Brian Fry La Neige HdG MD 1993 37/40XL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 35-1 Steering wheel
Cleaning out the garage, have the original 35-1 wheel to dispose of. 28" dia, 1" bore w/.25" key, good condition. Anyone want it for free, I'll send it, otherwise it goes to the scrapyard. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 35-1 Steering wheel
Good idea. Send me shipping info, I'll get it out to you. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 2/17/2016 11:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I'll carry it to Bacon Sails for a consignment sail. Proceeds to C&C Photo album. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Feb 17, 2016 11:31 AM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Cleaning out the garage, have the original 35-1 wheel to dispose of. 28" dia, 1" bore w/.25" key, good condition. Anyone want it for free, I'll send it, otherwise it goes to the scrapyard. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Ignition Switch Fuel Solenoid Valve
I've run the fuel line in the lazarette to where I can lift the seat and reach it, and installed a manual ball valve, which I shut every time I leave the boat or for the night when on the hook. Once I managed to have it closed when I started the engine and just as I dropped the mooring lines the engine quit, but other than that it's worked well. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 2/23/2016 3:22 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote: Hey everyone, Wondering if anyone here has installed a solenoid valve to cut off fuel flow when the ignition is turned off for their Atomic 4. My fuel tank has the standard hand twist valve at the top of the tank, but for additional safety I was thinking about adding a solenoid valve that automatically cuts fuel flow when I turn the ignition off. Just curious if anyone here has done it, if so I'd love to know which valve you used plus any other pointers. Thanks in advance, Ryan Nobody's Bargain 1976 C&C 30mki New York ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lignum vitae bearings
Years ago lignum vitae used to be the standard material for ships' bearings. It's a very dense (heavier than water), oily wood so it provides its own lubrication. It hasn't been used on ships in the last 50+ yrs. They stopped using lignum vitae because as ships got bigger and faster, the shafts got larger and heavier, and the wood wasn't precise enough to keep the shaft in position. Using it on our boats might work, but I could see it being difficult to install. They used to use individual staves that were slid lengthwise into grooves in the bronze or steel housing. Not sure how that would work in our struts which are made so you can press in (or out, as some of us are dealing with) the bronze outer sleeve. Are they proposing just a sleeve made of wood? Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 2/29/2016 6:27 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote: Came across this. Has me intrigued. They will cut me one to my specs for $60 +shipping. Ever heard or seen one? http://www.lignum-vitae-bearings.com/gallery/ Brian La Neige 37/40 HdG MD ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New bearing arrived. How to make it tighter.
Brian, I'd suggest cutting off the excess length, since it's not supported and could bend or distort. The fact that the bearing is loose in the strut housing is not ideal, it'd be better if it was at least a light drive fit, the set screws should not be depended on to hold the bearing in place. Without going crazy and putting in sleeves, etc, probably epoxy is your quickest approach. Some kind of filler/adhesive, JB Weld or similar, might be best. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/8/2016 4:28 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote: As the heading says my new bearing has arrived. It slid right in with minimal resistance. It is also 1/2 inch too long. Is any of this an issue. Should I cut it down to fit? Do I need to add some sort of glue or epoxy? Or will the two set screws be enough? Here is a link to my blog where there is a pic. https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/ https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/ Brian Fry la Neige 37/40xl 1993 Havre de Grace ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 mast step
Jeff, Many 35-1 owners have had to do the mast step job, and each will probably have a different approach. Mine was as follows: There's a stack of plywood layers under the aluminum casting that span the bilge sump with a thin layer of glass over it all. My approach was to cut out the plywood and replace it with fiberglass. The problem is that the upper layers are too wide to fit through the opening in the cabin sole in one piece. I used a sheet of McMaster Carr fiberglass board at the bottom, which was small enough to fit in, then I put down about 20 -25 layers of glass cloth in resin, which allows you to fit the resin/cloth layers through the opening. (This is doable if you wait in between layers long enough for them to set up to the point where you can still make a dent in the glass with your thumbnail, but keeps it from overheating.) I figured that was plenty strong, so then I built the level back up with smaller pieces of the fiberglass board that would fit through and epoxied them in place. As I say I'm sure there's many was to do this. It's a simple job in concept, just a PITA to work down in the sump under the sole. My boat also had issues with the wood under the forward-most keelbolt, I had to put some fiberglass board in there as well. Feel free to contact me for more info if you go this route. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/4/2019 6:14 PM, Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List wrote: Looking for advise/photos/instruction on doing a mast step replacement. Have searched and looked at some previous posts just seeing if there's any more ideas out there. Also have a small leak around our rudder post, any ideas as to what can be done to remedy that? Thanks, Jeff Helsdingen Caposhi 1972 C&C 35-1 #54 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35-1 Upper rudder bearing modification
Dennis, I'm quite interested as I'm getting a bit of slop on the rudder stock as well. One thought: I like your last suggestion of a plastic bearing instead of bronze. Bronze, while softer than stainless for sure, could potentially cause some wear on the stock, and it might be better to replace a plastic bearing or bushing every so often rather than risk the stock. If we really want to get fancy, maybe a short length of a cutless-type bearing with 1-1/2" ID? I'll be interested to hear what you end up with. Thanks for sharing this. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/8/2019 2:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: OK, I just replaced Touche's upper rudder bearing for the third time in 20 years. It gets a little sloppy with use. It's a simple Delrin disc. I had a few made by a plastics machine shop years ago so it's a simple task to replace it. I've been thinking about beefing up this bearing for years. So, if interested, please read this document and tell me if I'm nuts or if you have any better ideas. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MJ48XXi3m1p7spOZOgZiCR_5Z17p8pb2 Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2
Nathan, If your Admiral panel is like the one on an M3-20B, and I'd bet it is, the oil pressure switch also provides electrical power to the fuel lift pump, once the engine starts running. If your oil switch is not closed, the fuel pumps stops. It may run for a few minutes on what's in the fuel filter, but before long you'd know it. I'm guessing from the fact that you ran after the alarm went off that it might not be the oil switch. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 6/6/2019 10:24 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote: Hello, On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off after having motored about 10 minutes (and previously an hour earlier motored 20 minutes or so out). I have a Westerbeke 20B2 diesel in my boat. We have the admiral style control panel so that has both the temperature and oil pressure gauges as well as the alar buzzer. Everything looked normal on the gauges with the oil pressure reading about 40 psi at 2500-2700 rpm (manual says 35 - 60 is normal so maybe slightly on the low side but still in range). The same buzzer is connected to the over temperature alarm as well but temperature also seemed fine and cooling water was flowing. I shut down the engine and checked the oil level - which was just fine, right where it had been earlier in the day at the full mark. Given that we were in the middle of the channel and everything seemed to check out I ended up deciding to start her again and motored the remaining 10 minutes or so back to the marina (with the buzz er going the whole time). The oil pressure stayed at 40 psi until I slowed her to an idle at which point it dropped to 25-30 psi. I think that is pretty typical. According the the manual the buzzer should sound at below 10 psi as it does when you first start the engine. My question is: Do I assume that the sending switch for the oil pressure alarm is faulty and order a replacement? Is there anything else I should check or verify to ensure that the oil pump is in fact working correctly and the oil is getting distributed through the engine? Is there another part I should look into that could be causing this behavior? Thanks! Nathan Post S/V Wisper 1981 C&C34 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock Reservation?
Tom, I've spent a few nights at Block Island for the last several years on my cruises. The situation with the town moorings is first come/first serve, no reserving. It reminds me of trying to find a parking spot in NYC, at 7 - 8 am you cruise around the mooring field looking for someone taking sail covers off or running an engine and wait behind him so you can grab the mooring the second he leaves. By 10 am or so they're all taken. But, the real secret is that at 3 PM each day, the harbormaster can put transients on private moorings that are unused for that evening. You call him on VHF and he meets you by Can 13 and directs you to a mooring. I've always been able to get one if I arrive later in the day. That gives you at least one night so early the next morning you can do the town mooring derby described above. The anchorage is another option, of course, but as I found out your nice spot with plenty of clearance will inevitably be crowded by late arrivals. Kind of zoo, but there's quite a lot of room at the far edge, long way to shore. When are you going out? I'm leaving this weekend on more or less the same route, be good to meet up. Contact me offline. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 6/26/2019 1:22 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote: Hi Listers, My crew is demanding that I give them a break from racing so we are planning for our first cruise, heading up Long Island Sound to Newport and Block Island, next month. I've arranged dock space at the navy base in Newport, but I'm still working out the details for the stop at Block Island. We'd be arriving on a Sunday afternoon and staying overnight. Does anyone know what the town mooring situation in the Great Salt Pond is like? Would it be better to forget about the moorings and make a reservation now at one of the marinas instead? My worry is that all the town moorings will be occupied, the docks'll be full, and we'll have to set an anchor for the night. My anchor tackle is geared towards racing rather than cruising (150 ft of nylon rode with a short section of rubberized chain and a Fortress) so I'd like to avoid that. Thanks for any advice or thoughts you may have! Best, Tom --- Snow Goose '73 C&C 35-1 City Island, NY ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Downsides to having a boat on the hard?
When I bought my 35-1 it had been sitting in a yard for 3 years, and pretty much neglected by the owner. The biggest issue was water inside the boat, presumably after the battery died the bilge pump stopped draining whatever came in, and the boat had an inside waterline a foot above the cabin sole. Fortunately it was about an inch below the crankshaft opening of the A4 engine, otherwise it would have filled the sump and seized the engine. So my sense is that either be sure you have no water entry, or have some way of draining it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 7/13/2019 8:19 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List wrote: Hi Listers, Are there any advantages to having a boat on the hard for 3-5 yrs? Any disadvantages besides obvious non use of her? TIA. BLHickson Flight Risk 33-1 Chas., SC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C33 Mark II Deck Creaking
Dennis, You have me interested, as I don't think my 35-1 has any type of brackets, and the bulkhead does squeak in any significant seaway. I'd be quite interested in pictures. (I was told by a former 35-1 owner the solution was beeswax on the bulkhead.) Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 7/22/2019 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: OK, I'm taking a flyer here because I'm not familiar with the 33-2. Does it have an "oopstang"? That's the name a long missing lister (Wally) gave to a bracket assembly which holds the bulkhead to the deck. Look for a beveled metal piece on the deck which measures about 1" x 2" with a slotted flat head fastener. The fastener holds an L-shaped bracket which resembles a chain plate which is attached to the bulkhead. If your boat has one, try tightening the fasteners for this assembly. On my 35-1, the top of the bulkhead is held by this assembly. To the best of my knowledge, the top of the bulkhead floats except for this bracket. So it may be creaking just with a small movement. Advise us what you find. I plan to be on Touche' later this week, I'll look more closely at it and try to grab some pictures. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 2:52 PM Andrew Walther via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi there, Does anybody have any suggestions / comments on a rather significant creaking near starboard bulkhead on C&C33 Mark II? The boat is overall in very good shape but I did notice creaking when walking on the deck slightly forward of the bulkhead whilst at dock. We were out in heavy seas (25 knots) on our last trip reaching through waves and the creaking was quite noticeable down below. There are no soft spots and from visual and audible inspections I don’t see any signs of delamination. Also no signs of water ingress. I’m thinking that the joint between the bulkhead and deck may have come loose and was wondering if anybody has experienced the same, and would be curious to hear any suggestions on how to remedy the issue. Thanks! Andy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List plugged engine water intake
Dave, I had the exact scenario you describe happen to me, but even when diving I couldn't see anything in the intake. I wound up taking the hose off the through hull fitting, opening the ball valve and when no water came in, pushing a screw driver down to clear the weeds. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/9/2019 7:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water tank for showers. When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few minutes later the engine began to overheat. We re-anchored and I went below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but not enough to plug it up. My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a big clump of seaweek attached to the hull where the intake should be. She managed to clear it and we got under way with no more trouble. One lesson is to be careful of running the engine when the boat is at rest as I am sure you are much more likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed to when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has never happened to me). But the experience got me thinking about how to resolve the problem of a plugged intake without swimming. Is it possible to take the basket out of the water intake strainer and run something flexible and stiff down the tube and clear the intake without diving? I am thinking of stiff wire or something like the fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small spaces. Anyone done this successfully? Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...
Dave, Interesting question for me, as just a few days ago I installed an ACR and have been watching the voltage on the house bank, (alternator output is to the starting bank only) by which I can see when the ACR combines. It seems to be at about 13 to 13.2 volts, so it does sound like your alternator/regulator is not putting out high enough voltage. On my ACR (Blue Sea 7610) you can put in an LED that lights up when it combines, just to be sure. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/9/2019 4:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote: Hi All, I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is the stock 55 amp alternator. I noticed that my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me to research a bit then measure the voltages on each bank, and then at the alternator “Batt” terminal. Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the voltage at the BATT terminal does not exceed 12.63 in operation. (he ACR therefore doesn’t “see” a charging state) The belt is new and not slipping. This suggests and alternator or regulator problem. Does this make sense? Is there anything else I should check? If I end up replacing the regulator, are there better options for this alternator than stock? Thanks All. Dave Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates
Dan, Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum, it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers: utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum 6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to cracking under fatigue loading. IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated, just a little rough. It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface coating that has worn off. If you're really concerned you can have them dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place. Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping masts so it's 100% my discretion. I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but I'd sail with that setup. If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates
Josh, Stress corrosion cracking is caused by chlorides (salt) and high tensile stress, and while it is always a possibility with 304 and 316 SS, keeping stress levels low enough with normal safety margins should minimize it. Not that common in most marine fittings, even in salt water. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/14/2019 10:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Neil, you mentioned fatigue cracking in aluminum. What about stress corrosion cracking in SS? Dan, my thought is that the plates are safe for use of the boat. I believe it is more likely that the standing rigging will fail before the chainplates do. I don't know about you but I have plenty of other boat projects that are more worthy of my money. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan, Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum, it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers: utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum 6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to cracking under fatigue loading. IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated, just a little rough. It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface coating that has worn off. If you're really concerned you can have them dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place. Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: > Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping > masts so it's 100% my discretion. > > I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to > check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except > instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck > portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that > stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the > equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but > I'd sail with that setup. > > If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I > can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion. > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sad day, APS no longer carrying rope or hardware!
Some of us (ahem...) more senior lister's may remember when Lands' End was a boating supply mail order catalog. They made the switch in the late '70's to clothing, lot more$$ to be made, it appears. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/17/2019 3:02 PM, jim aridas via CnC-List wrote: Seemed like a weird business decision? But maybe much better markup in clothing and accessories. Plus can hire less knowledgeable staff. Still sad to see the great resource go. Previous -Galaxy 1982 34 c/B Current J80 Jim Aridas Brielle NJ Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Universal Diesel harness upgrade
Chuck, My 35-1 with an A4 is wired that way, though without the connectors. Appears to have been that way for 40+ years. At least Universal is consistent. Not sure I see a particular problem with it (without the connectors), as long as the wire size to/from the ammeter is adequate for the amperage, which should be the maximum charging amps. Of course if the starter and glow plugs' current went through the ammeter that'd be different, but on a Universal M30-B that I put in my club's launch that was not the case. I rewired the system to use an ACR this summer, which separated the house and battery loads, so while previously it showed both charging and discharging amps, now it only shows charging amps. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/5/2019 5:03 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote: Hello from already snowy Michigan. Seems the 1990 M-35 I have for power in my boat is, well, not really designed well in the wiring department. I have read stuff describing it as "dangerous" to "fatal" and worse. There appear to be two related issues: First, that the harness is not capable of the loads to and from the alternator, ammeter and starter, (plus glow plugs) and two, that the light blue 'trailer harness' connectors fail and burn. I've read several posts at different websites, and a great fix explained here: https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/ I wonder who on our expert list has tackled this problem. I am considering fixing what I have, or purchasing a new gauge panel and all wiring. You can do that from Catalina Direct and others. Any experience or opinions from fellow Universal owners? * * * * *Chuck Saur* *Daydream C&C 37+ * * * ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure
I just dealt with this issue this summer, and wound up using this approach: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A The switch actually has three positions, Off, On and Combine. In On, the house and starting circuits are isolated, in Combine they are connected. It appears to accomplish almost the same as the 3 on/off switches, but it would not let you turn one battery "off" and power both circuits with a single battery. You'd have to disconnect the battery lead. On the other hand, less wiring and fewer switches. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/18/2019 6:11 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: 3 switches actually allow more flexibility if you need to start the engine with the house battery or power the house with the start battery. They are also cheaper...and when/if one breaks you don't have an entire system failure to deal with. FWIW, That switch setup is referenced in a book by Don Casey. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 4:50 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks all for the responses. Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier with an email. Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know and I’ve lost some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a bundle on RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches. I do have an ACR (that came with the blue sea switch). The switch can then do ON, force combine, off. What’s the benefit of having 3 switches? Different combinations of house, start, combine on/off? Thanks, Jeremy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure
Shawn, This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained significantly, on the starting bank, and deep-cycle type which are intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer time, on the house bank. It would depend your use and on how often you recharge whether this is important or not, to be sure. And there are now dual purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you use them. One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting voltage dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit, one of the main reasons I chose this. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote: I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries, I could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and a switch between the buses? Something to consider depending on how far I get carried away with my electrical. Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and just leave them combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. And so far, the only significant load we have is the fridge, with minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change... -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I suggest changing to the linked setup. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky connection. Seems this is a common problem base on this forum: https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html I emailed Blue Sea and await their response. Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor. Now I’m worried about simply replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure. Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d needed power in a hurry. I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc. Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list? Thanks, Jeremy ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fwd: Great Lakes water levels...for C&Cs now Erie Canal
I've done several trips on the NY State canals, they really are a working museum, well worth the investment in time/money. You can rent 40' canal boats in Albany, travel in style for a weekend or week-long trip. The Champlain Canal is really nice, through the Adirondacks to Lake Champlain. NY State put a lot of $$ into developing waterfronts in the canal towns in the early 2000's, makes for good cruising. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/26/2019 8:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: I have thought of taking the Whaler up there and putting it in for a week vacation. We could go from town to town and stay at B&Bs. Also I think there is a canal around Toronto maybe that is good for that kind of thing. I’ll need some seat cushions though, I did 60 miles in the Whaler and ended up a bit sore from sitting on a board. Joe Coquina 1973 C&C 35 MK I Night Heron 1970 Boston Whaler 13 Sport ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fwd: Great Lakes water levels...for C&Cs now Erie Canal
http://www.canals.ny.gov/navinfo/index.html Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/27/2019 9:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: The controlling depth is “supposed” to be 12’. Good luck with that, at least in the spring. I made the trip upbound for the second time last year. The advice in April 2018 was that the minimum was 8’, but in several places where Tributaries enter the canal, debris had filled in reducing it to only 6 feet. There were other problems, such as a lock master who was reporting “normal pool” between Lock 19 and 20, because . . .the level was BELOW all the numbers at the bottom of the lock. We could see the stains a foot and a half higher which showed where it should be. A call to the Authority, and his supervisor came and apologized, and said he could raise the level 12 – 14 inches overnite, which we were dubious of, but next morning they had raised the level 14” over a 10 mile stretch. They control a LOT of water. He said they had new dredging equipment coming that summer, and there would be plenty of water after that. Eventually we had to stop at Rome for 3 weeks until they had dredged Woods Creek, Sylvan Beach, and another creek. We still dragged the bottom at several other places along the way, including both sides of the Genesee River. Hard to complain about a gem like this, especially when it was free, no charge ($200) for the centennial year of 2018. It is a wonderful trip, and I would recommend doing it at least once. Most places offer free docking overnite, many with free electric. I know our own Brig Niagara has gone through the canal at least twice, and that is 126 feet with a 10.5 foot draft. Bill Coleman Erie PA Do I have to google the controlling depth of the Erie canal? Step up, New Yorkers. What's up there? Chuck, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena, Md ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Changing seacock values
David, When I bought my 35-1 the raw water thru hull valve was flopping around (boat was on the hard). The original installation had just a small piece of plywood between the flange and the inside of the hull which came loose. I epoxied a piece of 1/2" thick McMaster Carr g-glass on the inside of the hull with nuts epoxied in recesses on the underside of the plate, then put on an integral thru hull/valve. Something like this: https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/ Wound up doing it to all the others except the two way back under the steering cockpit, which I'll get to some day. May be overkill but I didn't want more of them coming loose. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/10/2019 3:21 PM, David Morris via CnC-List wrote: While she’s on the hard, I plan to replace the seacock gate valves with ball values on our ‘75 C&C 30 MK1. Can anyone offer the benefit of experience in doing so? Are there tricks to stabilizing the through-hull fitting while unscrewing the old valves? Is it best to replace the entire through-hull fitting? With thanks, David David J. Morris, MBA President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd. 24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON K7M 7S3** Tel. 613-531-4429 email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments
A friend of mine was chairman of the Western Long Island Sound PHRF committee, and he told me that across the country the PHRF committees give certain boats the same base rating, kind of yardstick boats, so to speak, so all the committees will be working to the same reference. The C&C 35 Mk 1 is one of those, possibly the 30 Mk 1 is too. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/13/2019 7:33 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote: I am surprised that all the 30’s are rated the same given the dramatic differences in conditions they race in. San Francisco verses San Diego for example. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C&C 44 Portland Or On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 7:08 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I’m guessing most of the reviews are for boats with big changes in performance. PHRF Chesapeake has done some, but not often. Looking around the country, the 30-1, from hull number 1 (on the Chesapeake) to hull numbers over 600 seem to have the same 174 handicap (mine is number 593 and is 174 also). There may be exceptions, but I would doubt that Randy’s boat (assuming it has not been modified in major ways) would prompt a review. I’m not sure what one would do to a 30-1 to increase performance unless you cut a bunch of weight off the keel – and that would decrease it’s performance in heavy weather. At the Chesapeake rendezvous a couple months ago, I got to look at Rick’s number 1 and it is very similar to my 593, only differing is the area of chainplate attachments and some cabinet doors. Gary Nylander *From:* CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2019 5:40 PM *To:* CnC discussion list CnC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> *Cc:* David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments I am pretty sure that no review of ratings has been done at my club in at least 10 years. Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT On Dec 12, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Well Lee, since you bring up PHRF reviews, let me ask you listers, how often do your clubs or RSAs conduct rating reviews and adjustments? The introduction in “the book” (https://www.ussailing.org/competition/offshore/phrf/phrf-handicaps/) says under heading "Considerations when using this listing to determine a handicap by averaging fleet data” that "After the initial handicap is chosen and the boat is raced, an empirical analysis of performance may permit a more refined estimate of its speed potential.” And a review of https://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/USPHRF-Fleets-1.pdf shows that most clubs derive handicaps from “the book,” then review and adjust based on local experience. So, how many of y’all do that? Cheers, Randy On Dec 12, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dear Sir, RE: Randy Stafford S/V Grenadin C&C 30 MK I #79 LISTED as Hull #7 I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of your boat. With over 70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear now, why your boat is so fast, and only right that your rating reflect the changes you failed to document. I expect the board will want to question you very carefully about the additional changes to your boat over and above the documented 1972 norms. I have suggested that the penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF number, but the monetary fine should reflect the price of the current boat you have chosen to race. Perhaps if you raced a newer more expensive boat, you would be disinclined to perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which is depressing both the local fleet and the attendance of future sailors to the sport. You should hear from the PHRF board by the end of the month. Regretfully, Lee Yea, cold and wet in Seattle On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Listers- When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years ago, I came to the conclusion she was hull number 7 laid up in September 1972, I think based on this old post: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html. Meanw
Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick
Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic of Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's response to this might be. I've had Tacktick (Raymarine) wind system for about 5 years, and I've added inputs from GPS, speed/depth, so have a fair bit invested in the system. However, I've never really had satisfactory performance with the wind sensor, it drops out more that half the time, and for racing that makes it almost useless. This summer I put a new battery and bearings in the sensor, got marginally better performance, then I tried hoisting one of my displays up to the spreaders (don't ask) to see if it acts as a relay to the sensors in the cockpit, and that didn't help much. Finally got through to someone in the UK (I think) in Raymarine's tech support, who pretty much told me that a 50' mast is really too far for the wind sensor. So my question too: what have others found with regards the the Tacktick wind and at what mast height are you using them? Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On Dec 19, 2019, at 13:43, John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Wowza ! Nice rant :) lol 😝 Crazy !! You just can’t make that stuff up! On another note how do you like the TackTick considering this for Christmas request from Mrs Claus as I can use on both the C&C and the Etchells ! :) John Conklin S/V Halcyon ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick
Thanks for all the replies. Edd, my intention with hoisting a display up the mast was to replicate the mast rotation transmitter. Guess I'll keep messing with it since some seem to have decent performance with it. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove NY On 12/19/2019 2:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Neil, It’s true — Your mast is a little too tall for the Tacktick system. What you need, about half way up the mast is a Mast Rotation Transmitter (T221). See: https://www.mygreenoutdoors.com/raymarine-wireless-mast-rotation-transmitter/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLywjL_C5gIVEfDACh0XzQkJEAQYAiABEgKoXPD_BwE This will relay the signal from the top of your mast down to your unit. And yeah — It’s pricey. Great for normal sailing, but no way should you use any wireless system for racing. The system is just too slow and readings can get glitchy. Also, you’ll need to put some kind of protection around it so that your jib doesn’t whack it off your mast on a windy day while tacking. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Captain of the Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> On Dec 19, 2019, at 2:46 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Neil, I had a Tacktick system on my Morgan 30/2 and now on my C&C 35 mk3 no issues what so ever. Gerry Fennessey Fianna 33 I had one om my 35/3 without issue. -Original Message- From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>> Sent: Thu, Dec 19, 2019 2:23 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick FWIW, I had one om my 35/3 without issue. Joel On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 2:18 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic of Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's response to this might be. I've had Tacktick (Raymarine) wind system for about 5 years, and I've added inputs from GPS, speed/depth, so have a fair bit invested in the system. However, I've never really had satisfactory performance with the wind sensor, it drops out more that half the time, and for racing that makes it almost useless. This summer I put a new battery and bearings in the sensor, got marginally better performance, then I tried hoisting one of my displays up to the spreaders (don't ask) to see if it acts as a relay to the sensors in the cockpit, and that didn't help much. Finally got through to someone in the UK (I think) in Raymarine's tech support, who pretty much told me that a 50' mast is really too far for the wind sensor. So my question too: what have others found with regards the the Tacktick wind and at what mast height are you using them? Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On Dec 19, 2019, at 13:43, John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Wowza ! Nice rant :) lol 😝 Crazy !! You just can’t make that stuff up! On another note how do you like the TackTick considering this for Christmas request from Mrs Claus as I can use on both the C&C and the Etchells ! :) John Conklin S/V Halcyon ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray -- Joel ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 replacement
Ian, I've had my A-4 out and back in twice since I bought the boat. In my experience you're on the right track, some timber under the engine to slide it forward under the companionway. My only addition was a chain fall hung from a 4x4 over the companionway to take most of the weight and to pull it forward. I'm not sure of the 29-1's layout, but I'd suspect you could do something like that. Once the engine was into the cabin, I had it lifted in/out by a yard crane once, and I did it myself the other time. When I did it myself I used the boom as a crane, with the main halyard to lift the aft end of the boom. Actually used my main sheet as the block and tackle to hoist the engine, swung the boom over the side and lowered it to the ground. It worked ok but reinstalling I used the chainfall, was more secure than the sheet. And I got some sarcastic remark about hoping my insurance was paid up from the yard manager when he saw it Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 12/23/2019 10:06 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List wrote: Hi, After years of abuse and keeping it on life support, my A4 finally decided enough is enough. So now I need to remove it and put a replacement back in. My budget didn't allow for going to a diesel but I have a rebuilt A4 coming from a person who rebuilds these as a hobby. He has a very good reputation for the quality of work. I have been persuaded by two sailing buddies (both of who race Cal 40's) that this isn't too difficult a job and they will help me do the replacement. I am looking for any tips and gotcha's that this venerable group can provide me before I get started. One major issue I can see is how to lift the engine off the mounts when the engine is under the cockpit. My engine builder who has done this a few times (but can't any more due to his age) suggested I slide a 6x4 under the engine then use a 2x4 as a pivot and raise the engine by having someone stand on the 6X4. Then once free of the mounts, gently slide it back into the saloon and lift it out through the companionway. Has anyone tried this? I have lots of able-bodied helpers to help me so manpower won't be a problem. I am going to do all this at the dock, so no crane to help with the lift. And while the engine is out, I'll remove the fuel tank and clean it out. I'm sure there's crud at the bottom. I'll document the experience for the benefit of others and share it once it's done. -- Ian Matthew "Siento el Viento" C&C 29-1 San Francisco Bay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio
Olivier, Let me add a little info regarding the engine/gear/prop question. Assuming a 19% higher gear ratio, if you can run the engine at 19% higher RPM you will have identical performance of the prop/hull, as the prop RPM will be the same. That means the power demanded by the prop is identical, thus the load on the engine will be the same. The principle at work is that power = torque x RPM, so if you go up in engine RPM, the engine torque will go down proportionately to give the same power output. (There may be a small change in engine efficiency at the different speed/torque combination, but no more than a few percent, meaning fuel consumption may change a few percent, possibly for the better.) The only question is can the engine run 19% faster without hitting the limit. The 3HM35F appears to have a limit of 3,200 RPM, so if with your old gear you were under 2,624 RPM (=3,200 x 2.14/2.61) at your normal cruising speed, you would be able to achieve that with the new gear at 3,200 or less. If you run above 2,600 RPM now, you won't be able to match the speed you have with the old gear. And running the engine at higher RPM may cause it to wear a little faster, but if you're within the 3,200 limit, and the torque will be lower, shouldn't be too big an issue. If you approach this with the new gear ratio and want to run the engine at the old RPM, you'd have to increase pitch to give the same boat speed, as several people have pointed out. Now your torque will increase, possibly exceeding the torque limit at your old RPM. You'd want to check with a prop shop, who can give you that kind of info. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/2/2020 9:32 AM, Olivier Chatot via CnC-List wrote: Thank you for the comments! I see that my understanding was basically correct. The shaft RPM will be lower than before, and using a larger prop or a prop with greater pitch would counter this difference. I'll update you later if I end up using the transmission with a different gear ratio. I won't get a new propeller right away to get a chance to test the new transmission with the old prop. I think there's a chance the gear ratios are close enough that I'll get the same speeds at still reasonable engine RPMs. What I'm thinking is that lower prop RPM also means that the prop slip will be lower, so even though the prop RPM would be 19% lower, the boat speed is likely to decrease by less than 19%. Thank you, Olivier Chatot C&C 38-3 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket
Tom, Not sure how close your rig is to mine, but on mine the lowers are attached to a tab that's integral with the spreader bracket. The tab, angled outwards to match the angle of the lower shrouds, is part of the flat plate that's screwed to the side of the mast and on which a tube is welded to receive the inboard end of the round spreader. Is yours similar? Doesn't seem likely that there's any sort of access opening; there's a hole through the mast in line with the spreaders which carries a compression tube, but that would mean your entire spreader bracket has been ripped off, it would seem that would take a very high load. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 1/8/2020 4:45 PM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List wrote: Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port spreader bracket had been pulled off the mast, but still attached to spreader. Seems a nearby sailboat owner had not removed the jib and it came unfurled during a storm and caught hold of the spreader boot. I can only imagine it violently shaking my spreader and rig. With the bracket partially off I can see a hole in the mast. - Is that some kind of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it worse than that? I'm buried in the yard and the mast won't be down till spring. -If the bracket or spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source for replacements? - Boat owner or Boatyard responsible? Appreciate any info. Tom Alessi Andiamo C&C 36 646-283-1580 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Starboard as backing plate
Bruce: This stuff has worked great for me all over the boat, especially under my primary winches. https://www.mcmaster.com/8537k26 The trick to using it is to cut it with a jig saw using a diamond grit blade for masonry or hard tile. Regular jig saw blades don't last more than 30 sec in it. And also to protect yourself from the dust. Otherwise, it's great. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 2/11/2020 4:36 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, I have a nice chunk of Starboard and have need of a backing plate. Is there a downside to using this as opposed to wood or something else? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller
Joe, I am remiss it actually trying mine, but how does behave when back-driving the quadrant with the wires/chain/wheel? Is it difficult to turn? Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/20/2020 1:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: Fortunately the 35 MK I tiller is actually usable to sail the boat and if it were 1 foot longer and had a hinge it would be like the boat was designed to be tiller steered. I used to use it to sail from under the dodger. Joe Coquina ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Lewmar opening hatch screen solutions
Here's my solution: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=147043 Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 3/29/2020 8:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:29 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Charlie, My solution works on Touche' but might not be best for you. When I bought Touche' the PO had put stupid Velcro adhesive strips and a screen on the headliner. I removed all the Velcro adhesive and went with a screen with snaps. Here's pics: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWHBELTJrOWNXVWs https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRUNnX05wQjBJaFU With the screen removed, the snaps aren't particularly visibly intrusive. Also, when removed, the screen rolls or folds up fairly small for easy storage. Would fit in a quart zipper bag. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Before I hack something together to hold them on the ceiling permanently, but allow them to swing out of the way to close the hatch, etc. I thought I'd check with the listers if they have any ideas which may work better. Thanks in advance, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C&C 24
Hi Chris, Your mast compression post issue is a slightly different version of what many C&Cs of your vintage have experienced. My 35-1 has basically that same construction to support the bottom of the mast: a stack of plywood lightly encased in fiberglass that spans the bilge at the turn of the bilge. The plywood rots and the mast, or in your case the compression post, sinks. It's a common repair to cut out the old stuff and replace it either with more wood, or in my case, with a combination of fiberglass/resin layup and pre-cast fiberglass boards. Not terribly complicated, just a PITA to get there, as you say space is limited. The keel bolt issue seems a bit different. To be clear, when you say it moves I presume that's four inches at the bottom of the keel? Have you been able to have someone move it while you're inside observing the keelbolts? Do they move at all? Have you tried tightening the keelbolts? On my boat, there's a lot of wood between the surface you're seeing at the bottom of the bilge and the joint where the keel meets the hull. I can tell you that I had issues where that wood got soft and when I tightened the keelbolts it crushed. That was quite a repair job. I have to say I'm puzzled by the original construction: your "center floor", the one with the grounding bolt, is what I would expect for all of them, that the reinforcement would extend down into the bottom and pick up the load from the keel bolts. It doesn't seem to provide too much support up where it. Your idea of "boxes" seems good, to get strength down to the bolts. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 4/19/2020 9:43 PM, Chris Bennett via CnC-List wrote: Hi Rob, I do have pictures but do not know how best to post them to this forum so I will upload them to my google drive. This is the shareable link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qEfA4WHGKMVUk6bKch9X4-hXn76AR46C The issue I believe from examining the bilge area is that my C&C 24 has stiffeners (what would be floors in a wooden boat) that help prevent the hull from flexing too much when the keel is put in stress (say when beating to windward) and that the bonding of some of these stiffeners to the hull may have failed. I see signs of this in three of the 'floors'. The surveyor said that the issue is general hull flexing, not any cracking or failure of the lead keel to fibreglass joint. I named the pictures that you should (hopefully) be able to download from the above link as descriptively as I could. I use the term floors to refer to the transverse reinforcing areas. The floors at the forward end and aft end of the bilge are solid 'boxes'that have no issues. The other 3 floors (floors 2 to 4) from forward to aft are as follows (see overview picture and detailed pics): 2) The mast step floor. The plywood appears to have sunken and partly delaminated and pulled away from the sides. There is a resin and fibreglass strap that runs over the plywood cross piece and outboard at least 8 inches. The glass does not seem very thick on this one. See the pictures that show a clear curve that has cracked the base of the compression post casting. I shimmed this up last year but did not address the real issue. 3) A U shaped center 'floor' that is basically a big strap of resin and glass that runs down into the bilge and up the sides. The keel bolt goes through this strap. The pictures show a crack on either side where the strap attaches to the bilge base. Not sure how far the strap runs outboard but at least 8 inches to where the hull liner cabin sole is bonded to the hull. I cannot see how this would do much to stop the hull from flexing 4) Another plywood crosspiece with resin and glass strap over it. This strap appears to no longer be bonded correctly to the hull in the pictures. I am thinking of reinforcing floors 2 and 4 perhaps adding a cross piece and tabbing this better underneath as well as encapsulating in epoxy. Perhaps a box made from a top crosspiece with two ends that resemble more traditional (deeper) floors would be better if you can picture what I mean? I would replace the mast step fitting with a plate and collar made of aluminum since the original fitting does not appear to be available anymore - the compression post is 2 inches in outer diameter roughly. I was also thinking about adding deeper floors fore and aft of the center U shaped strap but concerned this might introduce hard spots? To do any of this I suspect I will have to remove the teak and holly sole and cut out with a multi tool or grinder a portion of the fibreglass sole so as to gain access to the outboard ends to allow for suitably wide floors as well as making access much easier. The problem with this approach is that this liner is bonded to the hull and contributes to the overall strength so it woul
Re: Stus-List A Different CNC inquiry
Hi Stu, I've been working with Fusion 360 for for toolpath generation a few years, after trying Solidworks and Mastercam, and I find it much more intuitive and pretty easy to use. It's published by Autodesk, who sells Autocad, and it's free if you're not using if for commercial work. Be happy to talk offline if you want more detail. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 4/20/2020 9:37 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote: This is not about C&C but CNC (Computer Numerical Control). I would like to touch bases with any of our listers who have and use a desktop style CNC machine and find out what design software they are using. If you don’t know what I am talking about – here is one for you to look at: cnc-router Stu -- ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Keel movement- now bolt torque
Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the watera classic on Stu's List. I’ll jump in…. Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent to tightening the head bolts on an engine while it's running, probably not a good idea. Bolted joints are intended to be initially preloaded by tightening the nut and bolt before the load is applied. What has to be considered for keel bolts first is that the design condition for the hull/keel joint is when the boat is on her beam ends, that’s the maximum load that can be applied, and in this condition the purpose of the keel bolts is to keep the hull/keel interface in compression. If the compression goes to zero – let’s say just to illustrate, a gap opens between hull and keel – the bolts would now be trying to support the keel under bending load, and they’d snap in a heartbeat. ( A quick calculation for my 35-1 keel with 6 one-inch bolts shows about 200,000 psi stress in that condition). So the point of torquing the bolts is to create enough pre-compression in the joint, and if you torque while under load, i.e., in the water, you are giving up some of that margin. Will it cause the keel to fall off? No, but we’re lessening the safety factor, and it’s all about having some margin. Thus the best way to tighten keel bolts is on the hard to get the most preload. Having said that, in Chris’s case which started this discussion, my recommendation was to tighten the bolts in the water if his keel’s loose, as I said above the last thing you want is to lose compression, but to go to a little lower torque than in the specs. Then torque to full specs when on the jackstands later. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Chris & Josh, I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be tightened while the boat is ashore. While that is a convenient activity during the annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, it is not entirely practical for us on the West Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years. The technical sheet in the link shows the theoretical load on a 1" bolt (torque to 350 ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than the weight of the keel such that it does not matter whether the keel is supported on the ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not required to do anything at this time. https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf I suggest that the proper procedure for tightening keelboats be observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard. For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque: start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, repeat for other nuts alternating for and aft sequence remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on how fortunate you are to be sailing B.C South Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you is beyond Hope. :) Cheers, Russ East side o' Vancouver Island At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote: Chris, The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that the keel bolts only be torqued while the boat is resting on its keel, generally about 60% of it's weight depending on the design. In this way you are not turning the nuts against the weight of the keel or even trying to compress the bedding material. IMO, it is likely that you will find more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land. I am not familiar with the design of your particular boat but some boats have keel bolts which are entirely inaccessible with the mast in place. Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not incredibly loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn or more and the other two by less than a turn. I will know if this removed the keel movement when the boat is next hauled out, although I am also thinking of diving on her to see if I can detect any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water is pretty cold but manageable for a few minutes with a wet suit - I hope!). I believe that a very small looseness in a narrow keel root would result in a fairly noticeable movement at the tip of a 3 foot keel - even 1/8 inch of movement over 2 inches width would translate into a couple of inches at the tip, if I have that right. So hopefully this was the issue! I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding the mast step and did not notice any flexing or movement in the floors or hull (made
Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump
Edd, I've been using this, these things are awesome. There's a bronze ball inside the end that goes into the can, shake it a few times and it starts to flow, almost faster than you could pour it out. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7302501?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2vuN1M256QIVCaCzCh2hJwzoEAQYAiABEgK64PD_BwE West Marine has them too. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/16/2020 1:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, A friend just sent me an ad for a battery-operated fuel pump for transferring fuel from a jerry can to the Enterprise’s fuel tank. Currently, I’m pouring from the jerry can directly into the tank, but there is always some spillage and cleanup. This looks like a nifty solution, but I wonder if it falls into the too-good-to-be-true category. Anyone here use one of these? Pros? Cons? All the best, Edd ———- Edd M. Schillay Captain of the “Starship Enterprise” C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL www.StarshipSailing.com ———- 914.774.9767 | Mobile ———- Sent via iPhone 11 Pro iPhone. iTypos. iApologize ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms
Charlie, I just finished this process about two weeks ago. Each year because of the flaking I would sand the hull, getting rid of some old buildup, but inevitably the newly applied antifouling paint would flake off more of the old stuff and mess up the paint. I finally had enough, had the yard soda blast, cost $2,000 to bring in the contractor. The gel coat on my '73 35-1 is in poor shape, lots of crazing and pitting. I did some filling with G-glex epoxy/410 filler on the worst stuff, then 4 coats Interprotect 2000e and anitfouling. (The yard quoted me $7,000 to put on one coat of primer and two coats of antifouling, if the price had been somewhat reasonable I would have had them do that too.) Everyone who removed the paint by hand (with smaller boats than my 35) said "don't do it by hand", and I'm sure they're right, just the filling and painting was bad enough on my back. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 8/8/2018 9:32 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!). Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or stay with the sanding method). Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 1990 37+ bow pulpit repair
Bob, Judging by your area code, you're in Suffolk County (Long Island); I've had very good work from Mariah Metals in Hicksville. https://mariahmetal.com/services.html (If you do contact them, tell Ray I say hello.) Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/23/2018 10:18 PM, Bob Tallman via CnC-List wrote: Good evening, I have a 1990 C&C 37+ with bent pulpit. Does anyone have knowledge of a repair shop or fabricator that can assist? Thanks. -- Regards, Bob Tallman rltall...@verizon.net Cell: 631.387.6748 Home: 631.261.0226 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming
A find point, but the bolt through the mast is really a compression tube, as the load on the windward spreader is compression from the change in angle of the upper shroud. The diameter of the heavy part of the bolt is the same size as the hole in the mast, so it actually bears against the inside plate of the spreader bracket on each side, keeps the mast from collapsing from the compression. (I had to replace that whole thing when I bought my boat as the spreaders had been cut off during transport, so I got a close up look.) Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 9/25/2018 6:30 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote: Hi Michael, Yes - a stout bolt with both ends threaded, and a stout nut threaded on inside each spreader bracket tube. I believe those nuts and bolt are what keep the windward spreader bracket from pulling off the mast due to tension from the windward lower shroud (the four screws on the bracket plate probably aren't strong enough alone). Cheers, Randy On Sep 25, 2018, at 11:18 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2018 10:44:23 -0600 From: Randy Stafford mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming Thank you all for your replies and suggestions, some of which were off-list. Responding to points in the order received: 1. "Is it safe to sate that the main mast damage is from the screws ripping out of the mast itself?? The main mast damage IMO is the indentation from the aft edge of the spreader bracket plate. The screw holes are also damaged, but fixable. Hi Randy, did the spreader brackets have a large bolt going through them and across inside the mast? I believe mine does and assumed it was handling most of the load. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List New Genoa?
Edd, I went with Rolly Tasker (Thailand), 145%, 7-oz, sunbrella w/foam luff. $2175 including shipping. I've used it for six seasons. Not much of a racing sail, but it's good for cruising, high foot to see under, seems to take a beating pretty well. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/6/2018 2:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Listers, I just took my genoa off the forestay for the winter and it looks like, after 13 seasons, well... how do I put this “She’s dead, Jim.” So now I’m in the market for a new 135 cruising headsail, with RF tape, draft stripes, sun cover on the leech and foot, and sail numbers. Given that I don’t race the Enterprise any more, I don’t need any super laminates, but I’d like something not too heavy. Really just something that will get me where I need to go, be it a daysail, an overnighter or a C&C Rendezvous. And, oh yeah, no bank breaking. Any recommendations? Are those overseas outfits like Far East any good? All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Captain of the Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com <http://www.StarshipSailing.com> --- 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone X iPhone. iTypos. iApologize ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Same here, I pull the paddle wheel every time I leave the boat to prevent growth on it. Water going's to spray in, but it's no big deal. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/11/2018 11:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote: Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. Gary 30-1 *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Dan via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Dan *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C&C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. *From:*Edward Levert via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Sent:*Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM *To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:*Edward Levert <mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C&C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you
Re: Stus-List Manual bilge
Following up on Rick's comment, I found on my Whale Gusher pump that the flappers were not working because the internal threads for the screws that hold them in place had corroded in the tapped holes in the pump body. The metal was some cast alloy and it wasn't just stripped threads, there was no material left to tap oversized threads; in other words, it was junk. Maybe Devcon would have worked, but I replaced it with a plastic body version, works fine. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/17/2018 9:17 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: That very well could be it Rick!! I haven’t pulled it apart or really gotten into it yet and it may need to wait for spring as the days are shorter and the snow is on its way. I wasn’t sure if there was a check valve in the system or not and the previous owner was unsure. She has a brand new electric bilge pump but not sure that has a check valve either. Something I was going to install next season Thanks for the tip. I’ll see what I find :) Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0> On Wednesday, October 17, 2018, 9:10 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: I think you might find that the bilge pump you have is a Whale Gusher. At least the pump in my 75 vintage 25 mk1 was a Whale. My problem was not the diaphragm but the flapper valves in the inlet and outlet of the pump. They no longer sealed properly after 25 or 30 years in place. A relatively inexpensive rebuild kit and a few hours labor fixed the problem. On my 25, the pump is mounted on the bottom side of the cockpit sole. The hardest part of the repair was crawling down there to remove the pump and then reinstalling it later. Which reminds me I need to add a pump rebuild to the list of projects on my 38. Rick Brass Washington, NC *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chris Graham via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2018 4:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Chris Graham *Subject:* Stus-List Manual bilge The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’? Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Manual bilge
https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009&Product_ID=10006&FriendlyID=Double-Acting-Mk-5 Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/18/2018 8:56 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age particularly around salt water. Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0> On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers. I've replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years. Both times the sealing surface for the flapper style check valves were corroded. The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’? Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone <https://yho.com/footer0> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous - this weekend!
While there may be room to meet in Josh's boat, the Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous will have to work to top Starship Enterprise in the way of drinks... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3dz1x07ih09zjfo/AADWVp2cFVFcEbiJfXQJNDZ2a?dl=0 Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/22/2018 7:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: There's lots of room and everybody is welcome, but with 10 couples coming I think 20 people might be a little tight Edd! Josh On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 12:31 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: There should be plenty of room for everyone inside Josh’s boat to host inside. See: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wjkzr5aw5uu4r61/IMG_2349.JPG?dl=0 All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> On Oct 22, 2018, at 12:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: We're still planning to arrive Thursday afternoon. Friday is looking great, we'll be entering all day. Saturday weather is looking kinda snotty so Carmel and I will be available and willing to entertain inside all day. Sunday should be better and Monday is shaping up to be a decent departure. Follow and post videos and pictures to the Facebook page. Feel free to message us there as well. https://www.facebook.com/2018MACCR/ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 11:10 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: The rendezvous is this weekend. Bunch of folks have responded they are attending. The agenda remains flexible. Apparently the only fixed activity is a pot luck on the docks Friday night. The Admiral and I are looking forward to meeting a bunch of fellow C&C owners. We'll be there Saturday afternoon. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Actual Drive (Draft?)
It's a matter of waterplane area (the area of the plane created by your waterline). What it amounts to is that the weight to sink one inch is equal to the weight of the water pushed aside as the boat sinks one inch. That amount of water is the waterplane area x 1". If you are in light water (fresh) it takes less weight to sink 1" than if you're in heavy water (salt), with salt water being 2.5% heavier than fresh, in general. In general a beamy hull will have more waterplane area for a given length than a narrow hull, so yes, a beamy boat would take more weight to sink 1" Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/29/2018 11:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: Probably somewhat empirical number, but it has to change depending on the shape of the boat (the more beamy it is, the less it would sink with the same increase of weight), doesn’t it? Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato” (quite beamy) Ottawa, ON *From:*CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Jim Watts via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2018 21:51 *To:* 1 CnC List *Cc:* Jim Watts *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Actual Drive Swiped off the internet: POUNDS PER INCH IMMERSION (PPI): The weight required to sink the yacht one inch. It is calculated by multiplying the LWL area by 5.333 for sea water or 5.2 for fresh. The PPI usually increases as the hull sinks into the water as the LWL area is also increasing due to the shape of the hull above water. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Small leak cb trunk/keel leak
Charlie, It's been a oldie but goodie topic on this list, but the proper way to torque the keel bolts is with the boat on the hard, in which condition the bolts are unloaded and torquing to spec gives the proper preload stress in the bolts. Doing it in the water with the bolts under tension could lead to over-stressing and not getting the proper compression between the keel and hull. That said, if they are loose enough to cause the the leak, of course you'd want to tighten them some, just not to the full spec. You might want to just put a wrench on them and see if they turn easily (mine did). Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/1/2018 11:06 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: I noticed a small water leak at the very aft end of the centerboard (cb) trunk/keel (where it meets the hull) of my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb while she was hanging from the travel lift awaiting to be splashed. It is not anything like the C&C 'smile'. My assumption is that it was bilge water seeping out and the rate was about 75 drops of water per minute. Except for the crack in the bottom paint at the leak, the entire outside of the cb/trunk /keel was otherwise totally dry. (Her bottom had just been stripped sanded down to the gelcoat, new barrier coat was applied and several coats of bottom paint were sprayed on and then burnished.) I spoke with the yard worker who worked on the boat and he said there was no leak while she was on the stands with the cb trunk/keel supported by a block. In this case, the cb trunk/keel was likely pushed up to the hull, probably preventing any leaking. Once the keel was hanging from the lift, the keel was not supported and the leak began and was visible. I did not notice any leaking during previous yearly haul-outs for bottom painting etc. (but I did not usually have her hanging in the slings long enough to notice anything.). Since my bilge has had some water in it for years (previously believed to be from rain-water down the mast), this might be the cause . I should note that the keel bolt/nuts that I can see LOOK to be in as-new condition. As to the cause, she has spent ~24 years in the water (except for yearly maintenance haul-outs). She had a single sharp encounter with an underwater cypress stump but otherwise has not hit anything hard in the NC sounds--they are mostly soft mud or sand. I do race her and use a hydraulic backstay adjuster which certainly attempts to bend the hull away from the cb/trunk/keel. After reviewing the C&C stuff on the photo album and some articles from the web, my thoughts are that: 1) this leak is likely the source of the water in my bilge and that it has likely existed for some time (years) but was never noticed on the outside to the hull. 2) and following the KISS principle, I figured my first move should be to bring the keel bolts to their torque specification--they have never been tightened. 3) and that I can do this with the boat in the water initially until my next yearly haul-out in 2019, when with the cb trunk/keel supported, I could re-tighten them. 4) and finally, if the leak remains (minor) after the bolts are properly torqued, I can opt for an expensive cb-keel/keel joint repair or live with the leak. Any hints/tips from listers on this would be welcome. Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
A local rigger made a halyard for me, and at the tail end running back to the cockpit he removed the core (3/8" Sta-set) before he spliced an eye in it. The purpose was to allow me to use a messenger line and have it all fit through the sheave at the masthead. That way I can remove the halyard for the winter much more easily. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/5/2018 6:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Feeding halyards through the clutches is easier since I downsized the lines. When I installed the clutches, I was using 7/16 halyards. Now I use 3/8 VPC which is smaller and slicker. I have Lewmar D2 clutches. They fit up to 9/16 " line. I use a loop of parachute cord or leech line as a messenger to pull the halyard through. I forgot to add to my previous post that once line has been loaded, it is very difficult to add an eye splice. If you don't add the eye splice at purchase, you need to be conscious of not loading the free end if you plan to add an eye. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 4:56 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi Dennis, I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question. If your halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the clutches? Just curious, Bruce Whitmore C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> *To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> *Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets). Damage to running rigging is more than likely going to happen near an end. If you bought extra line, all you need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line. I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end. For Touche's sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then interchangeable. For halyards, it's a bit more complicated. The first version gets a "D" bail snap shackle. If I need to end for end it, the second version must use a screw pin snap shackle. In the long run, I think it saves money and effort. I have a buddy who NEVER does this. Always buys halyards to exact length needed. He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years. Dennis C. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast
My version of this is to use two ascenders on a tight line, one with two foot loops attached, and the other attached to a bosun's chair. I also have a halyard attached directly to the bosun's chair. While my wife keeps tension on the halyard, I alternately step up using one hand and two feet, then slide the other ascender w/chair up, and then back to the foot loops, and repeat. That way I do most of the climbing work but have the comfort of the chair, with the safety of the second halyard. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/5/2018 10:57 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote: I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , and a self belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I can get up my 37/40 fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand in the loops to do work on equipment at the top. S/V La Neige 1993 C&C 37/40 XL Havre de Grace , MD FB blog : thenext14years Brian and Manon ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
