Stus-List Persuasion

2021-07-02 Thread Persuasion via CnC-List

Stu and Fellow C


It is with mixed emotions that I inform you we have sold Persuasion.  We 
had the privilege of enjoying her for 15 years and capturing many 
memories.  Our kids and now our grand-kids spent many enjoyable hours 
aboard.  We made two trips to the Bahamas and Persuasion kept us safe at 
all times.


We have passed her on to a family that will enjoy her as much as we did.

Stu please unsubscribe me from this forum.  I am going the way you did a 
few years ago.  We have purchased a land yacht.



Fair winds

Mike

Persuasion

C 37K/CB



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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

2016-05-28 Thread Persuasion via CnC-List
Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

>Ryan,
>Nice job.
>Re finishing the topside.
>Just do it. 
>
>We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
>battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
>whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
>mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
>old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
>the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>
>3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
>kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
>boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
>the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
>fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
>
>My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
>blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set that 
>fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" kiwigrip 
>tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and hot glueing 
>it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle stick...worked 
>like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
>
>The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
>painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
>problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
>think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
>apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
>feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
>parts of the deck. 
>
>Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
>sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
>can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
>three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
>somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
>to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at 
>the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
>
>In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
>makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
>finally came around.
>
>Bettina
>
>C 25 Savannah
>
>
>
>> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> at
>
>___
>
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Stus-List Cruising

2014-05-29 Thread Persuasion via CnC-List
Hi Stu

Just wanted to let the list know that this coming Sunday we (the Admiral and I) 
are leaving on an extended cruise.  We will be sailing down the St. Lawrence to 
spend the summer in the Maritimes (our home turf) then late summer early fall 
we’ll head south with our final destination in the Bahamas in early 2015.  In 
any one wishes to follow our blog they can access it here.  Also, track our 
progress here.  If anyone spots me along the way come over for a visit.

I would also like to thank you for your efforts and all of the support I have 
received from the list.

Would you please un-subscribe me for now.

Thanks
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Re: Stus-List List

2014-05-02 Thread Persuasion via CnC-List
I don't get that option


On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 1:04 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  It always amazes me when someone spams a list asking to me removed
 instead of just using the unsubscribe link that is at the top of every
 email they receive from the list...

 At 09:00 AM 5/2/2014, you wrote:

 Message: 7
 Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 08:57:33 -0400
 From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List list
 Message-ID:
  
 1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a71e25838...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 Perhaps every third email will do?

 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 From: CnC-List [ 
 mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of william drose via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:28 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List list

 Hi, I do not want to receive ALL these e-mails, please stop sending them.
 Thanks.
 -- next part --
 An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
 URL: 
 http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140502/e39816e0/attachment-0001.html

  Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com

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Stus-List Fw: List

2014-05-02 Thread Persuasion via CnC-List
Dennis

I highly doubt that you are 7 of 9.  And no I don’t want a picture of you in 
spandex

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2014 1:57 PM
To: Persuasion ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List List

We are the listers.  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.


7 of 9

Bejorian Vessel 34J51




On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Persuasion via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I don't get that option




  On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 1:04 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

It always amazes me when someone spams a list asking to me removed instead 
of just using the unsubscribe link that is at the top of every email they 
receive from the list...

At 09:00 AM 5/2/2014, you wrote:


  Message: 7
  Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 08:57:33 -0400
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List list
  Message-ID:
  
1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a71e25838...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

  Perhaps every third email will do?

  Joe Della Barba
  Coquina
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
william drose via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:28 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List list

  Hi, I do not want to receive ALL these e-mails, please stop sending them. 
Thanks.
  -- next part --
  An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
  URL:  
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140502/e39816e0/attachment-0001.html
 

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com



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  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 K/CB



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Stus-List Fwd: Prop Options

2014-04-29 Thread Persuasion
I thought Kevin was showing the possessive form

-- Forwarded message --
From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
Date: Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Options
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Certainly. Others is the correct spelling.

Rich

On Apr 29, 2014, at 10:36, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com wrote:

Follow the thread please before commenting and filling other's in boxes.

Sent from a mobile device.
On Apr 29, 2014 4:08 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:

  Results are online free,



 http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf




  --

 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
 Knowles
 *Sent:* April 29, 2014 7:21 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Options



 They want you to buy the May issue of Yachting Monthly. Results there.

 Rich


 On Apr 29, 2014, at 3:43, Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com wrote:

  Link to article pdf: http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/

 Video has no information except visuals.

 Sent from a mobile device.

 On Apr 28, 2014 6:26 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote:

 Short video on the various options for folding props..may be of
 interest to someFYI

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xwJkUfU6o


 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.


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S/V Persuasion
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Stus-List Fw: 1st 2014 Sailing Trip (now Canadians)

2014-04-29 Thread Persuasion
I thought the polar vortex was sitting over Alaska.  At least that is what I 
thought and kept saying those darn Americans are screwing up my weather and my 
launch.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: April 29, 2014 6:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1st 2014 Sailing Trip (now Canadians)

 

All,

 

Us New Yorkers tend to really dislike Canadians.

 

All winter long we turn on the TV and hear weathermen talk about 
cold air coming down to our area from Canada….. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 

On Apr 29, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:





That’s okay, Sam — we know you Canadians are used to using extra letters in 
everything.  Like the end of every sentence (“Eh?”)…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

 

On Apr 29, 2014, at 3:24 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:





Will be in Friday Harbor (note American spelling!) on Monday night;

 

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Stus-List Fw: Ice Box seal...

2014-04-21 Thread Persuasion
I would

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

I put it on in the middle of 2012. Still going strong.  Would you like to see 
pictures of it in action?

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davidrisch75
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 4:28 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Bill,

 

Thank you.  My only concern is longevity.   Any experience with time and 
product?

 

Re:  gas strut.Thanks but we are a three part lid.   Strut would not work.  
 

 

1981 40-2

 

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Bill Coleman 
Date:04/21/2014 2:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ice Box seal... 

I just redid my countertops and had to redo my lid, I found the perfect seal a 
Lowes, believe it or not.

I still have enough to do another.  Unfortunately, the cardboard inside the 
container is gone, so I cannot tell you that.

What I can tell you, is it was around 19 bucks, and is silicone, with a peel 
off tape with adhesive. I don’t know how they get anything to stick to the 
silicone, but it was perfect. Being silicone, is shouldn’t  deform.

Whoa, here it is, 

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=73604-81-68668langId=-1storeId=10151productId=1099657catalogId=10051cmRelshp=reqrel=nofollowcId=PDIO1

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 9:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Stus-List Ice Box seal...

 

Hello,

Not a big question, but...

I just re-finished the icebox and want to put a seal around the top under its 
lid.   The lid is heavy and I was wondering what gasketing material might 
withstand the weight of the top over time without compressing and become 
useless.

Thanks in advance. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




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Re: Stus-List We are back

2014-04-15 Thread Persuasion
Welcome home


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 9:39 AM, Stu s...@cncphotoalbum.com wrote:

   Good Morning Andrew

 We are back from the sunny south and settled into the frozen north for the
 summer.  Would you believe we got 2-3 inches of snow this morning?

 Our mailing/shipping address is:
 Stu Murray
 16 Richards Dr.
 Unit 53 Maplewood Dr
 RR#2, Tiverton, ON, CA.,
 N0G 2T0
 Phone – 1-519-708-0787

 Thanks
 Stu

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Stus-List Fwd: Well, there goes a third of the season...

2014-04-15 Thread Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club just postponed to May 16.  That's 2 weeks later than
normal.

-- Forwarded message --
From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com
Date: Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Well, there goes a third of the season...
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


  I am afraid that there will be a lot of late starting the season.

We have full ice coverage in our Club and when I look at the window I see
snow falling (2-4 cm expected). However, the Club is quite optimistic and
they believe that we can have the launch on May 3. I wish they are right,
though, we may have to use some icebreakers to be able to move the boats
(unless we start adding ice strengthening to our boats).

Marek (in Ottawa)

 *From:* Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 15, 2014 12:45 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Well, there goes a third of the season...

This just showed up in my email box...

 Begin forwarded message:

 *From: *Office @ Port Superior Marina off...@portsuperior.com
*Subject: **Important Revised Launch Information for PSMA*
*Date: *April 15, 2014 at 9:25:35 AM CDT

Due to Mother Nature we still have over 30 inches of ice in the Marina.
Nelson Construction has informed us that they will not be able to dredge or
set pelican poles for us until sometime during the week of May 12th – 21st.

Due to these delays, our entire launch schedule has been pushed back 3
weeks.

We currently have your boat, Oceanis, scheduled to launch on Thursday,
6/12/14…


Guess I’ve got more time to get the boat ready.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Stus-List wierd sailing

2014-04-14 Thread Persuasion
If you can call it sailing.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzGCYaJbf0A


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S/V Persuasion
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Stus-List Fuel system

2014-04-07 Thread Persuasion
Well spring is definitely in the air even though there is still 2 feet of snow 
around the boat.  This week end I decide to remove the fuel tank to clean it.  
All I can say what a major job.  Well with the tank nice and clean it was time 
to tackle the filters.  The fuel lift pump and filter were very loose, probably 
could have turned the bolts without the ratchet.  Now the question  when I 
replace the pump and filter can I use some type of thread lock.  If so any 
recommendations.  Also I’ve always had trouble keeping the banjo fittings tight 
at the pump and filter.  Anyone else experience this and how did you over come 
it.  The engine is a 3HMF.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Re: Stus-List boot stripe

2014-04-03 Thread Persuasion
-list.com




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Stus-List Fw: Poli-Glow

2014-04-02 Thread Persuasion
When I finally got fed up with Poly-Glow I tried Poly-prep to remove it to no 
avail.  Good old Easy Off oven cleaner did a great job.  Spray it on watch foam 
turn yellow hose it off.  Be careful though it is caustic and can cause a nasty 
burn.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Gary Nylander 
Sent: Wednesday, April 2, 2014 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow

If one needs to strip Poli-Glow off a boat, use floor stripper from the 
hardware store. Usually you need to dilute it to get the Future or what other 
floor polish you have been using off, but if you are brave (we had a bad spot) 
you can clean it off using the stripper undiluted. Be careful, it is pretty 
nasty stuff.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Knecht 
  To: CnC CnC discussion list 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 2:10 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow

  I guess I don’t agree because 
  #1- the topsides looked great after I Poli-glowed them last spring (in fact I 
had numerous people come by who had noticed the change and complimented me on 
it) and 
  #2- the Poli-glow is really easy to strip off using Poli-prep if you need to. 
 
  I am more concerned about performance than cosmetics so I will put money into 
sails and equipment long before I will repaint the hull.  Dave 

  On Apr 2, 2014, at 2:04 PM, Andy Blanchard andyblanch...@hotmail.ca wrote:


I don't believe in the quit fix like Poli-Glow, I was a believer at one 
time until I had to do some repairs on my boat after a collision. It was an 
insurance job so I was looking at having the repairs done by a professional. 
When they started to sand down the the damage area the sand- paper was gumming 
and they didn't understand why. I told them that I used Poli-Glow and they 
think that it could have been a chemical reaction that caused that or the 
original  gel coat never cure properly. No paint would aver stick on the boat 
in the condition it was in and it turn out the only next option was to re-gel 
coat the boat. 

We have old Antique boats that oxidize with time and one day or another you 
will need to re-paint your boat.

Andy

CC 25-1




From: capt...@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2014 11:40:20 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow


Which why I chose to paint Touché with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip. 
Awlcraft can be more easily repaired and blended than Awlgrip. Although it can 
be done, painters that can successfully blend Awlgrip are rare. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:10 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:


  What is the “it” that will deteriorate- the Awlgrip or the Poli-glow.  
Either way, I am not sure what to do this spring. I can either strip the 
Poli-glow and use Awlcare or keep using Poli-glow.  Added to this is the fact 
that the Awlgrip got badly scratched/scuffed by an unpadded dock last fall 
(long story).  It appears that with Awlgrip, there is nothing you can do except 
repaint and I am not ready to add that to my boat budget this year.  All of 
this makes me less than enthused by my first Awlgrip experience.  Dave 

  On Apr 2, 2014, at 10:00 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:


Because it will deteriorate in time and you will have to do it over.  
With Awlgrip all you really need to do is wash it down well and then if you 
want a little more do 1 coat of Awlcare, which is really easy to apply as 
well…should least 20+years at least barring scratches and dings 


 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
David Knecht
Sent: April 2, 2014 10:57 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Poli-Glow


 
Not realizing that my new boat had Awlgrip, I put Poli-glow on it last 
spring before launching.  It looked great (as usual) so I have no idea why it 
is “not recommended”.  Dave


 

 
David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT


image001.jpg


 
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  David Knecht, Ph.D.
  Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility
  Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
  U-3125
  91 N. Eagleville Rd.
  University of Connecticut
  Storrs, CT 06269
  860-486-2200
  860-486-4331 (fax)











  David Knecht
  Aries
  1990 CC 34+
  New London, CT

  pastedGraphic.tiff 


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Stus-List Fwd: Enlarging existing holes

2014-04-01 Thread Persuasion
There is a third way.  Similar to your second.  Take a piece of 3/4
plywood and cut the size of hole you want with your hole saw.  Next take
this template and hot glue or clamp it where you want to enlarge the hole.

Mike

-- Forwarded message --
From: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com
Date: Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 8:33 AM
Subject: Stus-List Enlarging existing holes
To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com


Over the years, we've discussed enlarging existing holes in hulls or
decks.  With a large existing hole, the pilot bit in a hole saw has nothing
to center itself with. There are two decent ways to do that.

First, you can use two hole saws on one arbor (mandrel) if the arbor has
enough threads to allow that.  If the smaller saw isn't quite large enough,
you can wrap some tape around it to make it fit the existing hole.

Second, you can make a wood insert to plug the existing hole.  There are
several ways to do that.  If you have a tapered plug, drive it into the
hole and cut it off.  Or, cut a wooden disc and insert it into the hole or
spear it on the pilot bit.  If necessary, you can shape the disc with a
spindle or belt sander.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Fwd: Poli-Glow

2014-04-01 Thread Persuasion
Poli-Glow you either love it or hate it.  We used it for a number of years
then switched back to good old wax.  Poli-Glow looks good the the first few
years.  Probably requires stripping very 4 or 5 years.  You must follow the
directions exactly.  Clean with Poli-prep. then numerous thin coats of
Poli-glow.  After 3 or 4 coats it starts to look really good.

My 2cents

Mike

-- Forwarded message --
From: johnr...@aol.com
Date: Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 10:21 AM
Subject: Stus-List Poli-Glow
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Waxed the hull last year.  Thinking of going to Poli-Glow.  I am told this
is difficult.  Comments?  Opinions?  Experiences?

 John McLaughlin
CC29 Mark II
Falcon


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Stus-List FW: Prop adjustments and cruising speeds

2014-03-15 Thread Persuasion
Jim

Can you reach maximum rpm.  If not you are over prop'd if you over revyou are 
under prop'd.  I'd start there.


Mike
PERSUASION
CC 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Prop adjustments and cruising speeds
Sent: Mar 15, 2014 12:54 PM
From: Jim Lynch lynchja...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 

I'm the happy new owner of an old 38-2, and I'm wondering if there is 
something wrong with my propeller or its pitch. It's a fixed three-blade 
on a Westerbeke 27 four-cylinder diesel.
At 3,000 RPMs it only pushes the boat along at 6.0 knots. Seems like too 
much exertion for too little return, doesn't it? The engine is strong, 
the bottom is freshly painted and the boat is not carrying much extra 
weight. With a hull speed over 7 knots, shouldn't it be chugging along 
at 6.5 knots or more at 2,500 RPMs?

I'd really appreciate any insights from owners of old 38s, as well as 
those of you who've seen the benefits of prop changes and pitch 
adjustments for both powering and sailing.

Thanks,

Jim Lynch
Olympia, WA
38-2






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Stus-List FW: Propeller Suggestions?

2014-03-13 Thread Persuasion

Have a look at Campbell Sailer

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Suggestions?
Sent: Mar 13, 2014 7:04 AM
From: Dr. Brian C. Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 

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Stus-List FW: Re: Autopilot under the deck for CC 38 Landfall

2014-03-12 Thread Persuasion

Fred

Out of courisity what is wrong with your unit.



Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot under the deck for CC 38 Landfall
Sent: Mar 12, 2014 5:15 PM
From: davidrisch75 davidrisc...@msn.com
To: CNC CNC cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 

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Stus-List FW: Re: FW: Re: Autopilot under the deck for CC 38 Landfall

2014-03-12 Thread Persuasion

Sorry about that. Also I just read what I wrote and for clarification I am 
talking about the autopilot and am not interested in lubrication

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet

 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List FW: Re: Autopilot under the deck for CC 38 Landfall
Sent: Mar 12, 2014 6:39 PM
From: Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 

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Re: Stus-List Owners Database

2014-03-07 Thread Persuasion
CAN'T WAIT


On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 10:28 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

 Hull colour

 Rich


 On Mar 7, 2014, at 9:59, John irvin john.ir...@rogers.com wrote:

 Will complete when you have decided on parameters
 Thanks for all you do,Sti.
 --
 From: Stu
 Sent: 06/03/2014 21:16
 To: CC Email List
 Subject: Stus-List Owners Database

  Since we lost our popular owners' database a while ago, I have been
 trying to rework it and put it back online.  I am not sure if the Google
 maps will be included this time, but I will certainly try.

 Here are some of the fields I am thinking of including:
 Boat length - ie: 27 foot, 39 foot, etc.
 Model or MK - ie: R, +, XL, MK1, MK2, etc.
 Year
 Engine - ie: Atomic 4, etc.
 Boat Name
 Previous Name(s)
 Owner(s)
 Home Port (city, town, etc)
 Province/State/Country
 Yacht Club
 Contact Email (will not be displayed, distributed or sold)
 Long/Lat (if we get the maps working)

 Any other suggestions?

 Stu

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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fwd: Now Boat Names

2014-03-07 Thread Persuasion
Edd

Mine has been jammed up for at least 4 years.  Always say I should find a
travel lift and RRR the centre board.  Just doesn't seem to be worth the
aggregation.

Don't miss it, but I would never glass it over.  Way back when I was
looking for a boat there was a CC 37 K/CB for sale around Annapolis that
the owner applied torpedoes to the keel and removed the CB.  My broker
really want me to look at it to satisfy his curiosity but I didn't.



-- Forwarded message --
From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com
Date: Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Dwight,

Initially, I was very enthusiastic about owning a keel/centerboard model --
better pointing upwind, less drag downwind. The process of lowering and
raising the board is quiet and it's great to have some control over how
much you can have down there depending on wind strength -- Then, I joined
this list and heard some horror stories about the cable breaking and the
board doing (uninsured) damage to the keel.

So each year, I have my bottom cleaners lower the board and check the
cable. So far, each year (8 years running), they have said it was fine, but
I dread the day where I have to replace the cable ($$$).

Now that I'm transitioning to a more cruising-oriented sailing lifestyle, I
have been playing with the idea of just glassing it over, forcing it to
always remain in the up position and never having to inspect or maintain
the cable again.


All the best,

Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/

On Mar 7, 2014, at 10:13 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Edd

I agree the new cushions will be a nice upgrade to an already beautiful
yacht and you chose really good material. And thanks on the spelling of Q's
name; most powerful guy on any Star Trek episode I think.

Would Dave mind if you called him Spock just while on the boat, that would
sort of fit with your theme.

Are you pleased with keel centerboard, never had one so I don't know much
about how they sail, only what I read here sometimes.  Is the drop part
noisy with movement when down and under sail?

Cheers
Dwight

--
*From:* CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Edd Schillay
*Sent:* March 7, 2014 10:55 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names

Dwight,

Thanks. It's a Keel/Centerboard model. As for exterior
labeling, I figure if you're going to name a boat Starship Enterprise, you
might as well go all-out with the graphics. As several on the list will
confirm, the back of the boat says:

ENTERPRISE
- NCC-1701-B -
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
PLANET EARTH
ALPHA QUADRANT

As for the interior cushions -- say good bye. We FINALLY got rid
of the Golden Girls floral print design and now have a soft light brown
microfiber - Will take some pics once they are installed.

As for the race crew, we have our own crew dynamics and the
roles have evolved on their own. My First Officer is my foredeck guy and
crew boss, Dave.

However, usually running my mainsail is my friend Kurt who I
have known since third grade. Kurt is a computer programmer for Morgan
Stanley and, amazingly enough, can calculate Time on Time standings in his
head while on the course at any given time. And, while we do always call
him by his name Kurt, he is often referred to by others, going as far back
to age 8, as my Spock.

PS - His/Her/Their name is Q, not Cue



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's
Loghttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/




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Re: Stus-List FW: Now Boat Names

2014-03-07 Thread Persuasion
Could a diver replace the cable.

Mike


On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:32 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:

  Couldn't you drop the board in the well and bring it right to the edge?
 Last boat of the day.  Or, if you don't like that, bring it off the
 pavement and dig a hole?  That is how I got my rudder out!



 Bill Coleman

 CC 39



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
 Schillay
 *Sent:* Friday, March 07, 2014 11:22 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names



 Bill,



 Where the Enterprise is now, the travelift is never 10 feet
 above dry land, and, as Joel mentioned, it's hard to find a place with a
 lift that far off the ground. In order the replace the cable, the board
 must be completely down.



 A short haul in my area would be several hundred dollars
 alone. materials an labor would probably be another hundred or so.



 I bet I can get it glassed over for $100 right where she is.



 All the best,



 Edd





 Edd M. Schillay

 Starship Enterprise

 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

 City Island, NY

 Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
 Loghttp://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/



 On Mar 7, 2014, at 11:14 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:



 This  kind of reminds me of the old English tale of the axe stuck in the
 ceiling and everyone crying  about what would happen if it fell out and
 killed her future husband. Till a man suitor came along and pulled the axe
 out of the ceiling.

 Why not be proactive and just replace it? If you prepare everything
 beforehand you can just do it when you are going in in the spring  or
 coming out in the fall.  You already know it will last 8 years, and every
 year that passes you will be worrying even more - when you take out the old
 one you can check the condition and determine if you can wait till, say
 Stardate 11242.5



 Bill Coleman

 CC 39 image001.gif



 Joel,



 You're right. The cable itself would not be a major expense.



 The hauling the boat 10 feet in the air, perhaps as an
 emergency short-haul, and doing the repairs while in a travel lift,
 dismantling what's there, snaking a new wire through and everything else
 gets expensive. And if it breaks on its own, I'm looking a major
 out-of-pocket keel repair.



 I'm not so sure about the resale value part. A shoal-draft
 keel has its advantages, especially for cruising. And, a next owner would
 not need to continually inspect and possibly repair the cable.



 Upwind performance is the biggie. But, in less than 10, I
 find the boat runs slower VMG than with the board up. And in Western LI
 Sound, we don't get above 10 all that often. As I said -- playing with the
 idea.



 All the best,



 Edd







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Stus-List I'm sorry

2014-03-05 Thread Persuasion
I know it's late and I apologize again

In the spirit of sportmanship

*Proud Canadian*



*A US first grade teacher explains to her class that she is an American.
She asks her students to raise their hands if they are American too.*
Not really knowing why but wanting to be like their teacher, their hands
explode into the air like flashy fireworks. There is, however, one
exception. A girl named Kristen has not gone along with the crowd. The
teacher asks her why she has decided to be different.. Because I am not an
American. Then, asks the teacher, What are you?. I'm a proud
Canadian, boasts the little girl. The teacher is a little perturbed now,
her face slightly red. She asks Kristen why she is a Canadian. Well, my
mom and dad are Canadians, so I'm a Canadian too. The teacher is now really
angry. That's no reason, she says loudly. What if your mom was a crappy
hockey player, and your dad was a crappy hockey player? Would that mean
that you're a crappy hockey player too?   A pause, and a smile. Then, says
Kristen, Nope! That'd mean I'm an American!

-- 
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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fw: Navigation Software

2014-02-19 Thread Persuasion
I am not an Apple fan although the Admiral has 2. An Ipad original and a new 
Mini.  Wifi only so no GPS.

For myself I bought a Sony Xperia tablet because it is waterproof to about 10’. 
 Really only needs to be splash proof.  I bought Navionics HD and so far I am 
pleased but it has all been armchair sailing.  Eventually I’ll load Active 
Captain but I’m not sure how useful it will be in Canada

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Fair, Mike 
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

Any recommendations for us Android tablet users?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike Fair

Finnyacht 351

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

 

The problem with an expensive helm mounted chart plotter is that it'll be old 
news in a few years. I'm not keen on spending ~$1500 or more on a chart plotter 
that will be old tech a few years from now. The iPad does so much more than 
navigation and is half the price. Sure, you can't read it easily in sunlight 
and it's not waterproof .. I can buy two iPads for the price of a raymarine 
plotter though. And I can take the iPad home and do all sorts of other things 
with it (primarily reading sailing magazines with Zinio) but I digress...

 

I'de like to have a plotter, or some kind of multi-display unit at the helm but 
the prices on them aren't justified in my opinion. I am making the same thing 
using OpenCPN, a laptop and likely the Standard Horizon GX2200 for GPS and AIS 
info for the laptop. I already have the laptop, OpenCPN is free (and good!) so 
I'll only be spending the $350 on the AIS/GPS capable VHF radio vs $1500 
for the same functionality at the helm? I can't justify that.

 

If the technology was more modular, ie; the multidisplay had proper buttons and 
was really *JUST* a display and interface I'de be more interested. $1500 is a 
lot to spend on what is essentially a touch screen monitor .. except it's not 
is it? It's a raymarine/garmin/sh whizbang that isn't upgradable and will 
essentially suck compared to the new stuff in 5 years. Oh yeah,and charts are 
really expensive too. I happily paid $50 for navionics with charts for all of 
North America!!! Charts that get updated! Give me a waterproof, sun viewable 
iPad type device that uses open protocols that i can mount at the helm and I'de 
gladly spend $1500 on it. All I need is a display and an interface (buttons and 
touch, but don't take my buttons away). A computer is a computer is a 
computer

 

There are nice plotters that I would like to have, it's just a question of 
value for the money. My boat bucks are needed elsewhere.

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Roger Ware w...@qed.econ.queensu.ca wrote:

I have an iPad with Navionics but still find some shortcomings (a) the software 
doesn’t do very much except tell you where you are (b) the iPad is not sunlight 
readable  and (c) not waterproof.  I am a bit surprised by the level of 
enthusiasm among this expert group  - surely a purpose built helm mounted 
chartplotter still dominates?

 

Cheers, Roger Ware

Kingston, Ontario

Waiting for Spring, or at least a break in this miserable Winter

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: February-19-14 9:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

 

On deliveries I use every piece of equipment available. On my own boat, I have 
radar and an old plotter. On both the iPad is my go-to nav unit. On my boat, 
when I'm anchored and in my bunk I can instantly check whether I'm dragging 
with a glance at my iPad. On deliveries, when I'm off watch, I can check on 
what course and speed the watch on deck is able to maintain. I also carry a 
very basic hand-held GPS as back up and almost all boats I get on have at least 
a hard-wired GPS aboard and most have a plotter.

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine

 

On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 9:43 AM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote:

Andrew, I note your comment about using the ipad for navigation; do you also 
use some type of MPS or chartplotter on your personal boat? and if so, how is 
it used in conjunction with the ipad?   On deliveries, do you use the boat's 
navigation equipment? Or just your personal ipad? Thanks

Richard

1985 37 CB (sunshine and 60 degrees-snow is melting!)

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255

 

-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Feb 19, 2014 9:17 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

I use iNavX on my ipad and haven't actually pulled out a paper chart in more 
than two years (15,000 miles). I still carry the paper charts but haven't used

Stus-List Fw: Wiring an inverter

2014-02-17 Thread Persuasion
Dan

Question 2
I wired mine into the house side of the 4 position switch with appropriately 
sized wire and a fusible link.  If I may make a comment your alternator is a 
weigh too small.  You need at least 100 amp output with an external smart 
regulator.

Good luck

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Daniel Sheer 
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2014 4:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

Two questions I hope I hope the listers here can give me some guidance on.

1) I broke the toggle on the 12v main breaker on my LF38. The sticker with the 
amp rating is gone. Anybody know what size I need? 

2) I have a 1000 w West Marine inverter. I need opinions on how it gets wired 
into the battery banks. 

I have a separate starter battery and two banks of house batteries, each bank 
has two 12v batteries There's a 4 position switch that isolates the starter 
battery from the house batteries (off, 1, 2, all), I think, and a 4 position 
switch that isolates or combines the two house banks, again, I think. There's 
also a starter isolator that isolates the starting battery for starting and, I 
think, prevents discharge from the starter battery to the house, but combines 
everything for charging from my 55 amp alternator. Clearly, I have yet to fully 
figure out and confirm how it's all wired.

I'd really apreciate some advice here. 


Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco



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Stus-List Fw: 35-3 ice Box

2014-02-06 Thread Persuasion
Jake

Thanks for the photos.  I’m sure my set up is the same.


Has anyone in the group tried to apply spray foam in the voids between the 
icebox and stove and icebox and hull.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 6:12 AM
To: d.ve...@bellaliant.net ; 'Richard N. Bush' ; 'Doug Allardyce' ; 'Joel 
Aronson' ; 'Graham Collins' ; 'RAYMOND SHIBE' ; 'Pete Shelquist' ; 'D Harben' ; 
'Persuasion' 
Subject: 35-3 ice Box

Guys,

 

Attached are an assortment of pics from my refrigeration installation.  From 
my cursory examination of the ice box, it is clear that some insulation could 
be added without too much trouble or expense.  Spray foam insulation with a 
long nozzle would work.  Any insulating value that you add will decrease the 
electrical demand of the system.  The wall adjoining the stove could have a 
couple of holes drilled into it for to insert the foam nozzle, as well as a 
couple of holes under the sink.  

 

The lines from the condenser to the evaporator go right through the bulkhead 
and come out inside the ice box.  They are sealed with plumbers putty, which 
came with the Adler/Barbour kit.

 

Any questions, let me know.  The unit has been in service for about eight years 
now with no problems at all.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 



 
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Stus-List Fw: Bad expierience with Torrenson Marine (TOAD)

2014-01-28 Thread Persuasion
Let me see in I understand you.

You admit that you were in the wrong
You admit that you were advised of the return policy
And you say it’s not about the money

There’s an old adage “penny wise and pound foolish” that comes to mind

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 5:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bad expierience with Torrenson Marine (TOAD)

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know about a poor expierience I had with Torrenson 
Marine.  I figure this will apply to almost any of us that own a Yanmar engine.

Until recently I had found the selection, service, price, and online 
availability of parts to be quite satisfactory.   About 2 months ago I 
purchased new fuel supply pipes for my Yanmar 3HM35F.   Unbeknownst to me I had 
accidentally selected the pipes for the 3HM35.  After a 6 week back order, I 
recieved the pipes.  Upon opening the box I discovered that 2 were rail 
straight and only one had been properly bent by the manufacturer (Yanmar).  I 
immediately contacted Torrenson (TOAD) to inquire if I was expected to bent the 
pipes myself.   They contacted Yanmar and responded to me that I had purchased 
the wrong product.  I was ultimately convinced of my error and agreed to return 
the product for a refund.  I did request a delay on the return incase the 
appropriate replacement parts were also improperly manufactured.  TOAD made no 
indications of this being a problem.

I recieved the replacements after an additional 6 week back order.  The pipes 
appear to be correctly bent though I have not installed them.  So I returned 
the originally purchased pipes.  Today I recieved notice that (as a result of 
both my error in selecting the wrong pipes and the return being outside of the 
15 day grace period) I was going to be assessed a 20% restocking fee.  

Email discussions ensued followed by a phone call in which Troy one of the 
owners said that he HAD called Yanmar and was instructed not to bend the 
pipes.  It was my fault for puchasing the wrong product and not returning it in 
a timely manner.  He completely disregarded the fact that there was no possible 
way for the 2 rail straight pipes to be used (by anyone) and the fact that 
the delayed return had been communicated.  He continued to argue that I was 
arguing over what amounted to $20.  I agreed that it really wasn't about the 
$20 but rather providing a positive expierience, retaining my business and the 
business of anyone else to whom I relayed this story.  He proceeded to minimize 
my business stating that he was not going to miss my 2 purchases over the last 
year (~$350).  To which I said thank you and wished him the best of luck.

From now on my purchases will be limited to the local shop.


Just some food for thought,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD




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Stus-List Fw: Installing Refrigeration on a CC 35 Mk3 + insulation

2014-01-25 Thread Persuasion
Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a CC 35 Mk3Jake

Please post the video on youtube.  I’ve always wondered what was in there

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 5:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a CC 35 Mk3 + insulation

Dwight,

 

The foam I added to the top of the ice box helps prevent condensation on the 
counter.  I still get some over the lid, which I didn’t change.  I would rather 
drill holes from outside the box, than the inside.  They’re easily hidden under 
the sink, but a little more obvious by the stove.  I’m not sure how much of a 
cavity it there to fill anyway.  Spray foam can exert a lot of pressure, so be 
careful.  I have seen it buckle walls in houses.  I have a small round access 
plate below the stove on the left side of the ice box.  I can reach the drain 
hose.  I may be able to stick my inspection camera (boroscope) in there to 
check it out.  

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 8:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing Refrigeration on a CC 35 Mk3

 

Jake

 

I have an almost identical setup for the Adler Barbour on Alianna.  In your 
case, did the added Styrofoam insulation make a significant difference?  Have 
you added any insulation around the sides or on the bottom of the icebox?

 

I am considering adding polyurethane spray foam insulation…I wonder if drilling 
holes from inside out through the ice box to insert the nozzle would be a 
reasonable way to do that…would the foam trap water that could cause 
problems…how many cans would I need etc. ?  

 




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Stus-List Fwd: lets get back to items of interest

2014-01-22 Thread Persuasion
HERE HERE!!!

and don't forget to change the subject line.  It's getting so bad lately
that I'm deleting more than I'm reading.

Mike

-- Forwarded message --
From: Jimmy Kelly kellyjimmy...@gmail.com
Date: Tue, Jan 21, 2014 at 6:33 PM
Subject: Stus-List lets get back to items of interest
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com


lets get back to items of interest like CC yachts  not a lot of chat
about vaguely related items like homemade autopilotsotherwise will be
even fewer participatesa forum is only as good as the number of people
who are involvednot 4or five people talking about saskatoon drinking 30
years agonot to pick on anyone but he is one of the least
offenders.AND  jim actually contributes much good interesting
information cannot say list is worth reading last while..LETS GET
BACK TO YACHTING  AND  CC CRAFT...JUST ONE OPINION   do not have a lot to
say as martin deyoung  cc 43 seattle   usually  replys first  nearly
always on the mark...just my opinion...he martin is one larger boat
owner  where  why are the rest?...not particpating

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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fwd: unstepping mast

2014-01-09 Thread Persuasion
Dave

My Spartite is held is place with the j-bolts that hold the mast collar.
There is no way it is coming out.  Prior to un-stepping the mast I pour
liquid soap around the mast.  It is preferable to do this a day or 2 in
advance giving it time to seep in.  During the actual lifting of the mast I
also apply liquid soap to the mast from below.  Also you want to wipe the
soap off the mast from outside as the mast is lifting.  First year I didn't
and a helpful club member put a bear hug on the mast when it was almost
out.  He wasn't impressed with all the soap that got on his clothes.
Stepping is the reverse.  Keep soaping the mast as it is going in.  You
will know when you have enough.

Mike

-- Forwarded message --
From: dre...@gmail.com
Date: Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List unstepping mast
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Hi,

I want second the thanks to all for the great advise on unstepping the
mast.   I have in the background enjoying
the inputs from everyone.  I am planning on unstepping my mast soon.  I
originally had two big concerns, one was
regarding the roller furling system (less of a concern now), but the other
is the spartite-like mast collar. I really hope
there was plenty of release Vaseline used during the initial install(before
me).   Has anyone come across any spartite mast problems?
If so, what was the best way to cut through this material?

Thanks

-
Paul E.
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jan 9, 2014, at 8:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 21:39:14 -0800
From: David Folsom dfolsom...@gmail.com
To: Frank n...@comcast.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List unstepping mast
Message-ID:
CAFtvjGJvrekE5KqJSefh5cz93OZCpHf7Q=bgzmkrxam+t23...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


Thank you everyone for the great advice
I knew thus would be the best place to ask

the video was great

Frank, I am not in a hurry and if you are coming to San Diego it would be
great to meet you

I am working with a rigger here in San Diego and using the yacht club would
let me pull the mast right next to where I am going to work on it, rather
than having to move the mast half mile down a busy street

Thanks again,

Dave Folsom



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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fwd: unstepping mast

2014-01-08 Thread Persuasion
Ron


I've been stepping and un-stepping my mast for 30 years.  Since '05 on
Persuasion.  And just to add some fun I have to thread the needle because
the mast is held with Spartite.  If you have your owners manual it will
show you where to pick the mast up.  I'm about 2 ft above the first
spreader.  You want to be slightly heavy on the lower end.  I put the sling
around the mast at the right location and then I take a line from the sling
to the goose neck and tie it off.  Remember this line will stretch some.
To remove the mast I put the sling and line in place apply a little tension
with the crane then remove the shrouds and stays.  Since the crane is not
at the top of your mast you won't have to worry about what is up there.



-- Forwarded message --
From: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List unstepping mast
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com


So does everyone usually slide the strap or line up to the spreaders to
lift the mast out?
I've been doing that, but the marina operator thinks that's wrong.  He
suggested that I keep it a few inches lower and tie off the tail of the
line to the gooseneck.  I tried that and the mast was completely unbalanced
and rubbing badly on the deck collar.  I quickly dropped it back and used
the spreaders again.
I have to admit, I'm not sure the spreaders were meant for that load.
What do others do?
Ron
Wild Cheri
CC 30
STL


  --
 *From:* J.P. ja...@jpiworldwide.com
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Wednesday, January 8, 2014 10:45 AM

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List unstepping mast

Hi,

I recently stepped, unstepped, and re-stepped my mast for my CC 34 (we
did a survey, hauled the boat, refitted, and then floated the boat after
several iterations of work).  I have also stepped and unstepped my Rawson
31' and my Ericson 35'. The CC was by far the easiest. Because it steps to
the keel through the deck, there really isn't much danger of doing it
wrong . Any decent boat yard with a crane (and I did two of my boats in
Dana Point where they had a good boat yard), will pull it for you... I had a
set of saw horses set up to hold it while I refinished my mast (stripped and
treated the aluminum and repainted, rewired etc... changed all the lights
and instruments). It only took me and the crane operator to pull the mast
for the CC... the crane operator was good. I just undid the standing
rigging, he slipped the straps around the mast and pulled it out... I
steadied the end of the mast as he swung it to the saw horses.

One thing to keep in mind is that there are little oak wedges at the deck
plate. I refabricated mine to better fit the mast, I would suggest checking
those every time you pull the mast.

JP



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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fw: GPS Laptop or tablet set up for BVI Charter?

2014-01-08 Thread Persuasion
Robin

I just purchased an android tablet. Navionics has apps for different areas.  I 
got the HD Marine and lakes for US/Canada.  You can download the charts you 
want for offline use.  Also works with or with out gps.

Although I haven’t used it in real time yet I have been armchair sailing for 
about a month and I am very satisfied.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Curtis 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 3:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List GPS Laptop or tablet set up for BVI Charter?

I'm going to charter in the BVI in April. They tell me that the Conch charter 
boats may or may not have a working GPS on board? Is there a way to hook a 
android tablet to a navigation app that I could use or should I buy a hand-held 
unit to bring with me?
Any advice on this would be great? 
Curtis

-- 

At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
-  Robin Lee Graham





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Stus-List Fwd: Under deck windlass installation.

2014-01-07 Thread Persuasion
Jim

Your installation looks almost identical to mine.  Unfortunately yours is a
weigh to clean and neat ;)

Mike

-- Forwarded message --
From: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com
Date: Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.
To: 1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Here's mine...a couple of changes ago. Knees glassed into hull just above
balsa line, windlass shelf bolted onto knees. I later added a Starboard
clatter pad in front of the anchor locker.

http://members.shaw.ca/parmesanshift/images/IMG_0953.jpg


On 6 January 2014 20:44, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote:

  I would like to see the installation also, thanks
  Richard
 1985 37

 Richard N. Bush Law Offices
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220
 502-584-7255
   -Original Message-
 From: Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com
 To: Pierre Tremblay tremblay.pie...@yahoo.ca; cnc-list 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Mon, Jan 6, 2014 4:30 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

  Pierre, thanks for that. If you do have a picture handy I would love to
 give it a look.

  Best,
 Dave
 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

  On Jan 6, 2014, at 3:55 PM, Pierre Tremblay tremblay.pie...@yahoo.ca
 wrote:

   This is exactly what the PO did on my CC 38-3. I will look if I have
 picture of the installation.

  Pierre Tremblay
 Avalanche, #54988
 CC 38-3, WK
*De :* Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com
 *À :* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Envoyé le :* lundi 6 janvier 2014 15h02
 *Objet :* Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

 So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably
 a better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on
 shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal
 windlass. Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some
 rough drawings for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded
 to the bulkhead and just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat
 it seems doable. Chain angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the
 chain/rode runs true when the windlass is offset to starboard and there is
 just enough chain-fall (~21”) to meet the manufacturer’s requirements.

 So, has anyone with a same or similar sized CC done something like this?
 Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments?

 Cheers,
 Dave
 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake  Bay
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Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fw: Under deck windlass installation.

2014-01-06 Thread Persuasion

Dave

I did this shortly after I purchased Persuasion.  I installed a vertical 
windlass and had to cut a hole in the anchor locker cover but the base 
installation could be the same for you.  I didn't secure the mounting 
bracket to the bulkhead although it is against the bulkhead.  Here is what I 
did.


I took a bevel square and placed it against the bulkhead and the hull.  This 
gave me the angle for the ends of the mounting platform.  Next I measured 
the width of the bulkhead at the height I want the base.  I took 2 pieces of 
3/4 plywood and cut them to the angle and width of the bulkhead.  The plan 
was to take these 2 pieces and wedge them into the locker and glass them to 
the bulkhead and hull just below the deck.  Well there is no way to put them 
in place full length.  I cut one piece of plywood about 8 from one side and 
the other piece 8 from the other side.  Now I had 4 pieces and a mess on my 
hands.  It's a good thing I have a good Admiral/apprentice.  In the locker 
the Admiral/apprentice and I took 2 of the pieces and put them in place 
pushing the separate pieces hard against the side of the hull and bulkhead 
and took a piece of scrap plywood and screwed it to the bottom to hold 
theses pieces in place.  Next we took the other to pieces and epoxied and 
screwed them to the top of the pieces that were already in place.  Ensure 
the joints are staggered.  Now remove the scrap from the bottom.  When this 
all setup I couldn't move it but I did apply some glass at the hull.  I 
believe I would pull the bow off the boat before this bracket would break.


Unfortunately I didn't document the process with pictures.  If you are in no 
rush I am going to the boat in the next week or 2 and could take a couple of 
pictures.


If you have any particular questions please feel free to contact me off 
line.


By the way the Admiral is OK with fulfilling those duties but she keeps 
telling me she didn't sign up in any to be an apprentice.


Have you decided how you are going to power the windlass,  dedicated battery 
or powered from the house battery.  I did not use a dedicated battery.  Let 
me know if you want info on my wiring process.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Dave Godwin

Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably a 
better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on 
shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal 
windlass. Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some 
rough drawings for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded 
to the bulkhead and just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat it 
seems doable. Chain angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the 
chain/rode runs true when the windlass is offset to starboard and there is 
just enough chain-fall (~21”) to meet the manufacturer’s requirements.


So, has anyone with a same or similar sized CC done something like this? 
Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments?


Cheers,
Dave
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake  Bay
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Stus-List Toronto Boat show

2014-01-06 Thread Persuasion
It’s that time of year again.  Is anybody going to the TO boat show?


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Stus-List Fw: Edd's bikini request

2014-01-05 Thread Persuasion

Bottoms have 3 holes



Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: jtsails

Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2014 6:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edd's bikini request

I know I'm a little late here, but spent the weekend on the boat and out of
contact.

Edd
the way I usually handle the bikini mounting problem is as follows
Have the lady (I sincerely hope) remove all clothing first,
Hold the bottom (that's the piece that has two holes in it) open so that the
lady can step into it.
Pull up gently until resistance is felt.
Toss the other piece overboard, it is completely unnecessary!
James
S/V Delaney
1976 CC 38
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: j...@svpaws.net

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2014 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edd's bikini request


It's going to be tough and I doubt you'll get a ton of shade.  If memory 
serves the 37+ Is much like the 34+ with its long low boom.  Similar story 
on our 121.  All we could fit was a single panel (2 bow).  Still, a little 
shade is better than no shade.  Of course, if you're talking bikinis you 
probably don't want more than 2 bows anyway.


John


Sent from my iPad


On Jan 4, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Tom B t...@sv-alera.com wrote:

Dude...You do NOT want to see me in a bikini!

Tom Buscaglia
The Game Attorney PC
888-848-GLAW
Skype - thombusc


On Jan 4, 2014, at 10:09 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 13:01:51 -0500
From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Bimini Mounting
Message-ID: df150e40-fae5-4625-9466-0cb45e3d0...@schillay.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Listers,

  I know this is a long shot, but do any of the 37+ owners on here have 
bikinis and, if so, do you have any photos as to how it?s mounted? I 
took mine off the Enterprise when I bought her in 2005 and am looking to 
put it on again.



  All the best,

  Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


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Stus-List Fw: Propane stove problem

2013-12-20 Thread Persuasion
Fred

I used these guys a couple of years ago for my ‘85 Hillerange.  Very helpful.  
Sent me the parts I needed and gave me a credit for the old part when I mailed 
it back to them.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 6:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane stove problem

Fred — you’ll probably need to replace the valve assembly, if that’s still 
possible.  Try here: 
http://www.suremarineservice.com/Seaward-Propane--LPG--Range-Parts.aspx


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 18, 2013, at 5:41 PM, Fred Hazzard fredhazz...@spiritone.com wrote:


  I have a Hillerange 3 burner propane stove.  Occasionally one burner will 
leak gas and subsequent fire around the shaft that controls burner heat where 
it enters the burner assembly . I only see this happening after it begins to 
melt the inside of the control knob.   I am looking for suggestions what I need 
to do to fix this problem.
   
  Fred Hazzard
  S/V Fury
  CC 44
  Portland, OR





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Stus-List Fwd: : new boat, 1985 CC 37

2013-12-13 Thread Persuasion
BEST CHRISTMAS PRESENT EVER!!!



Forwarded conversation
Subject: Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 CC 37


From: *Richard N. Bush* bushma...@aol.com
Date: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 12:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Hello friends; I am happy to let you know that I have just received
delivery of my fourth (yes 4th!), CC; a 1985 37; centerboard model.  We
had many issues getting it trucked in from Newburyport, MA; mostly weather
related, but some delays due to the trucking company.

It is in pretty good shape, however, because we're in this deep freeze I
wont be able to make a really good assessment of what needs to be done
until it warms up a bit.   I will have a million questions then!

A CC is a novelty here on the Ohio River; the only ones anyone around here
have seen have been those which we have brought in; first we brought a 1982
25 from Austin Texas; then a 1985 29-2 from Cleveland; then a 1987 33-2
from Jacksonville, Fl, and now the 37;  the 29 went to Tennessee, but
the 25 is still here; and of course the 33-2 is up for sale-I am what the
realtors call a motivated seller!;

The local guys asked me why I stayed with the CC; I thought about it;
originally I bought the 25 without knowing anything about CC's other than
a general reputation for being quality boats; after I had the boat  a
while, I was impressed by the workmanship on the 25 so when I wanted to
move up, I looked at the 29s; then when we wanted something bigger, I went
for the sailing ability of the 33-2; now, I figure I have enough research
knowledge (mostly through the collective wisdom of this group) and hands-on
experience that I couldn't go wrong in staying in the CC line.  The truth
is, I looked at other brands and simple kept coming back to the  CC; as
someone said in the recent thread about taxes; the CCs are the best bang
for your buck and they sail better than anything else out there.

Many thanks,
 Richard
1985 37; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
502-584-7255




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--
From: *Rich Knowles* r...@sailpower.ca
Date: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 3:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Well done, Richard!  A true bear for punishment!

Rich

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From: *djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com* djhaug...@juno.com
Date: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 6:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


That's amazing Richard!  Congratulations!  How long ago did you buy your
first CC?

Best of luck getting her into the water this spring!

Danny

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

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From: *John and Maryann Read* johnpr...@comcast.net
Date: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 7:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Congratulations Richard.  Hope your new baby will live up to the
experiences of your prior boats.  Could not agree more on your assessment
of CC’s



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 CC 34

Noank, CT



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard
N. Bush
*Sent:* Friday, December 13, 2013 12:37 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 CC 37


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Stus-List Cruising guides

2013-11-24 Thread Persuasion
Hey cruisers

I’m just sitting here doing some arm chair sailing and planning our upcoming 
cruise south.  Can anyone recommend a good cruising guide for Eastern Canada.  
Our plan is to flush out the St, Lawrence and spend the summer on the east 
coast.

Any suggestion greatly appreciated. 


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Stus-List Fw: floorboards

2013-11-08 Thread Persuasion

Bill

Have you considered one of the PVC teak and holly products.  I just did my 
sole with Lonseal.  I think it took 20 years off the age of my boat.  The 
next owner will curse me when it comes time to replace as I screwed new 
plywood down prior to laying the Lonseal.



Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Bill Connon

Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2013 11:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards

wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:


I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has 
for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then 
varnish.  Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with 
double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in 
router to cut.  Thoughts welcome.

Bill Walker
36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my HTC


Bill,

I think that one thing you have to be careful about is to have the Teak
 Holly ?? pattern lined up properly along the length of the boat. It
might be a less efficient cutting pattern but would look more professional.

Bill
Caprice 1
CC 36

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Stus-List Fw: Fw: floorboards

2013-11-08 Thread Persuasion

Dave

I don't know if I can give an honest assessment on the slipperiness.  We 
finished the job and left for vacation.  3 weeks on the boat.  During that 
time I didn't notice it slippery but then again it didn't get wet.  The 
admiral made sure everyone towelled off.  I'll send you a couple of pics off 
line.  If you do decide to go this route let me know and I'll help you avoid 
some of my pit falls.




Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Dave Godwin

Sent: Friday, November 8, 2013 5:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: floorboards

Mike,

I've toyed with the idea of of using a non-wood product for my replacement 
cabin sole. One of things I'd be interested in is an opinion of how 
slippery it is compared to varnished laminated teak and holly plywood.


Thoughts?

Best,
Dave
1982 CC 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 8, 2013, at 16:09, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:


Bill

Have you considered one of the PVC teak and holly products.  I just did my 
sole with Lonseal.  I think it took 20 years off the age of my boat.  The 
next owner will curse me when it comes time to replace as I screwed new 
plywood down prior to laying the Lonseal.



Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- From: Bill Connon
Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2013 11:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards

wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:


I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone 
has for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then 
varnish.  Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with 
double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in 
router to cut.  Thoughts welcome.

Bill Walker
36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my HTC


Bill,

I think that one thing you have to be careful about is to have the Teak
 Holly ?? pattern lined up properly along the length of the boat. It
might be a less efficient cutting pattern but would look more 
professional.


Bill
Caprice 1
CC 36

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Stus-List Fw: Fw: TV bracket

2013-10-15 Thread Persuasion
Chuck

I’ll send you a couple off list.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Chuck S 
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 11:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: TV bracket

Yes, I'd like to see a picture of your arrangement thanks.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From: Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 4:10:34 PM
Subject: Stus-List Fw:  TV bracket


Chuck

I’ve had a 22” mount on an articulating arm since ‘09.  I took 2 pieces of wood 
and routed a slot in the middle to wrap around the stainless tube at the nav 
table.  The tv can be turned to any angle.  I run my chart plotting through my 
laptop and turn the tv so I can see it at the helm.  For movie night I swing it 
out into the salon so there are no cheap seats.  If you want I could take a pic 
and send it to you.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Chuck S 
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 1:39 PM
To: cnc-list CNC boat owners 
Subject: Stus-List TV bracket

I am mounting a flat screen TV on my boat.  Can I hang it on an articulating 
arm, or does it need to be flat against a wall? 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



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Stus-List Fw: TV bracket

2013-10-13 Thread Persuasion
Chuck

I’ve had a 22” mount on an articulating arm since ‘09.  I took 2 pieces of wood 
and routed a slot in the middle to wrap around the stainless tube at the nav 
table.  The tv can be turned to any angle.  I run my chart plotting through my 
laptop and turn the tv so I can see it at the helm.  For movie night I swing it 
out into the salon so there are no cheap seats.  If you want I could take a pic 
and send it to you.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Chuck S 
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 1:39 PM
To: cnc-list CNC boat owners 
Subject: Stus-List TV bracket

I am mounting a flat screen TV on my boat.  Can I hang it on an articulating 
arm, or does it need to be flat against a wall? 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ




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Stus-List Prop recommendation

2013-09-05 Thread Persuasion
I'm thinking of replacing my prop.  It was a temporary/emergency repair
about 5 years ago when half of my folding prop decided it like being in the
Murray canal more than on my boat.  My current prop is 16 X 10 I believe
(can't remember exactly).  I've been checking on line and the Campbell
Sailor appears to have good reviews.  My preference is a 3 blade fixede as
I will be doing extensive cruising next year.

Does anyone have any experience with a Campbell sailor prop.  I would
especially like to here from other 37 footers.

Thanks
-- 
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Re: Stus-List two helms?

2013-09-02 Thread Persuasion

I believe the proper spelling is LABOUR Day.  ;)


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Wally Bryant

Sent: Monday, September 2, 2013 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List two helms?

Double your pleasure, double your fun, with Doublemint Doublemint
Doublemint gum.   (Sorry, but when I was 3 years old I had a real crush
on those animated twins that danced across the TV...
which just goes to show the power of Madison Ave back then.)

You're right that you'll double the maintenance.  You would probably
mount your expensive instruments on the back of the big party table, so
you can see them from either helm, and put a simple multi-control by
each wheel.

Some guys are really into big wide hineys, but I like them skinny.  They
say that a wide stern surfs better downwind.  My skinny IOR boat surfs
pretty darn well, and frankly has surfed through some pretty scary
stuff.  When's the last time you saw a fat surfer?  VBG

I think the point of dual wheels is so you can see well when heading to
windward at a steep angle of heel.  If you have a lot of crew that makes
sense, but if you're pleasure sailing you probably won't have a full
crew.  If you're pleasure sailing you'll probably will have at least one
type of self-steering system.  If you have a self-steering system, you
can leave the helm alone and deal with lines, make a sandwich, or even
take a good look around.

Madison Avenue strikes again...  Many new boats are designed to sell to
retirees, who have seen pictures of 'round the world' racers on
performance monohulls, which usually have two wheels. Then they get
'practical' and order an in-mast furling system, which is convenient but
really can't provide decent sail shape. Then they go out on the ocean
and get scared witless and spend the rest of their retirement years
motoring or at the dock.  But that big wide transom, and that big
cockpit table, provides room for dock parties where they swap stories
that they read about in Sail Magazine.  And even 32 foot boats have two
'bathrooms.'

Uh oh, I think I'm ranting.  Gotta go.

Wal

PS.  Happy Labor Day.  BTW, it's called Labor Day because it's nine
months after New Years Eve...  it actually has nothing to do with work.




Richard wrote:
I imagine twice as much maintenance, twice as many instruments to 
purchase, and twice as much to go wrong.  snip


Has anyone sailed a twin-helm boat? What were your impressions? Do we want 
one? Is this the future of boat design?



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Stus-List Fw: Sky-liners

2013-08-23 Thread Persuasion
Charlie

I removed my spray hood while on vacation.  It wasn’t a big deal.  It took 
longer to clean up under it.  There was no sealant around the edges.  Some fool 
put silicone at the companionway.  After all cleaned up I put a strip of butyl 
tape along all edges and re-installed the spray hood.  All hale the great butyl 
tape!!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: cenel...@aol.com 
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 12:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Sky-liners

My 1995 36 XL/kcb has a 'sky liner' also--and it has a few leaks or at least 
the water gets around it into the companionway/cabin.

AFAIK, it looks like I need to remove the entire hatch cover 'cover'/'surround' 
to be able to remove and re bed/clean-up/replace this 'smoked' Lexan/acrylic 
sheet. 

Has any lister found an easier way to do this?--the hatch cover 'cover' is a 
massive, one-piece fiberglass piece that would be a pain to remove and replace 
after
the sky liner was re bedded, etc. 

Or do I have to suck it up and remove the entire frame?

BTW, I have already replaced the sliding piece of the hatch cover after it 
cracked years ago.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
CC 36 XL/kcb 


cenel...@aol.com




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Stus-List Fw: Recycled diesel fuel

2013-08-11 Thread Persuasion
Every fall we haul our boats out up here in the great white north.  I always 
fill mine then treat.  Usually hauled for 7 months.  Never had a fuel issue 
yet.  touch wood

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Eric Frank 
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 7:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Recycled diesel fuel

Is year-old diesel fuel worth using?  I had about 5 gallons of diesel fuel left 
in the tank over the winter.  Rather than just add to it, I pumped it out and 
am wondering if it is worth reusing.  I had treated it with biocide last year, 
and can easily filter it, but does it have some water absorbed into it and so 
should be discarded?  Some diesel additives claim to deal with water as well 
(see current issue of Practical Sailor), so is it sensible to treat it with 
that and then add it back to the tank?  Otherwise I need to find a proper place 
to dispose of it.  The engine runs fine, no problems, so there is no indication 
anything is wrong, but of course that doesn't mean the fuel is really suitable. 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 





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Stus-List Solar Vents

2013-08-10 Thread Persuasion
Has any one removed Nicro solar vents.  It looks as though they may be applied 
from the outside held in place by caulking.  I removed the outside SS cover and 
if I started the fan it would continue to run for a few seconds.  It was very 
dirty and I want to remove it to clean it. It is applied over the cowl vent so 
I cannot access it from the inside.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Stus-List Head liner

2013-08-06 Thread Persuasion
Ok, I re-worked the picture size so hopefully it will go through.  The panels 
are FRP from Home Depot and the paint is Interlux Brightside blu-glow white.  
Light is temporary until I find something I like.  A friend made the mast wrap.



Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: broo...@aol.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 7:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List interiorre

Personally, I would like to see pictures of any boat interiors that owners are 
willing to share.  Everyone has great ideas and I want to see them.

Bev Genader  Bob Morgan
CC 37 Stonington CT



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Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again

2013-08-06 Thread Persuasion
As always Google has the answer.  

http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm#strengthchart

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
  From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca
  Date: 6 August, 2013 19:15:01 EDT
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
  Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


  Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. 
  There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building.

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker
  Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again


  Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step.  
(BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing).
  I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; 
probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in.  It 
did last 10-15yrs though.  So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to 
put in a third support in the middle.  I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 
sheet.  So I'm going with solid wood for the support.  The hardwoods dealer 
suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge.  A friend suggested ipe 
(epay or ironwood).  Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river.  He 
claimed that some don't even treat it.
  I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the 
horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, 
especially steam.
  I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis 
suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly.
  So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there 
any suggestions about which wood and the coating?
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  STL

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Stus-List Fw: Replacing the Overhead Panels on a 37+

2013-08-05 Thread Persuasion
Edd

I replaced all of my overhead panels with FRP.  It’s used for shower stalls and 
comes in 4’ X 8’ sheets.  It is extremely white so much so I had to paint all 
of the head liner with Interlux Brightside blu-glow white.  Pictures available 
is you want.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Monday, August 5, 2013 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing the Overhead Panels on a 37+

Listers, 

I've purchased a bunch of lights (LED under-kitchen-cabinet ones) to be mounted 
in those overhead panels much like Ken Heaton has on his boat. But, I'd prefer 
to go with something white instead of the teak-like ones that Ken has. Does 
anyone have a good suggestion on what kind of material would be best? I want 
something lightweight so it can stay up with velcro, but not too flimsy so I 
can mount these lights in them. 

1/4 star board? Any other suggestions?

Also, I know Ken already sent around a photo of the aft cabin during our 
whose-boat-design-is-better chest-thumping email chain, but I had to include a 
photo of mine too, with, of course, a custom blanket :-) 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/Personal/blanket.jpg 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website




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Stus-List Fw: Using a hammer drill to remove corroded fastener

2013-08-03 Thread Persuasion
The correct tool is a hammer screwdriver.  You hold the bit tight to the screw 
and then hit the driver.  It exerts a downward force and a torque at the same 
time.  I’ve found it effective.

https://www.google.ca/search?gs_rn=23gs_ri=psy-abtok=oPJD7GNjgLZtH9Wm9kEF-wpq=hammer+drivercp=9gs_id=1zxhr=tq=hammer+screw+driverbav=on.2,or.r_qf.bvm=bv.50165853,d.dmgbiw=1188bih=546um=1ie=UTF-8hl=entbm=ischsource=ogsa=Ntab=wiei=m5T9UeXsIpWn4APfzIHwDg#facrc=_imgdii=_imgrc=OaUvmIkwY9z90M%3A%3BeYJz_vbcXEqh6M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fww2.justanswer.com%252Fuploads%252Famdhcds%252F2012-06-11_231053_impact-screwdriver.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.justanswer.com%252Fhonda%252F6s24d-07-honda-pilot-front-brake-rotor-off.html%3B640%3B480




Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Using a hammer drill to remove corroded fastener

I don't think you want a hammer drill - technically that is a drill that 
hammers forwards and backwards at high speeds to break through concrete.
I think what you want is an impact gun (similar to what mechanics use on tire 
lug nuts - but available in small scale drill type versions) - that will 
apply a certain amount of pressure with each impact, but not spin at the high 
speed until the fastener is free.

Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 03/08/2013 11:13 AM, kelly petew wrote:

  I want to add a T track slide to my mast for a whisker pole.  The mast 
tracking is in place, but I can't break the bottom fastener, in order to 
install the T-Track.  Likely, corrosion b/t the fastener and mast is the issue.
   
  Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - using a hammer drill to break 
the corrosion bond??
   
   
   
  thanks.
   
   
   
   
  Pete W. 
  CC30 MKII


   

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Stus-List Fw: Fw: HELP aluminum bolt

2013-07-27 Thread Persuasion
Thanks Graham

I’ve already order a hex head.  I do a little filing and maybe cut a slot with 
the hack saw.


Sitting a the Brockville Yacht club.  Thousland Island tomorrow...yea

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Graham Collins 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 6:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: HELP aluminum bolt

If there is enough length to the Edson 6 hex head, and enough diameter on the 
head, it would be an easy job for a machine shop to turn it into a countersunk 
flat head bolt.
Or a half decent machine shop could turn one from raw stock...  

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11On 2013-07-26 9:14 AM, Persuasion wrote:

  yea it has a slotted head.  If I could find some 1/2” aluminum ready rod or a 
hex head bolt I could probably shape it into a flat head and slot it with a 
hacksaw. 

  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 Keel/CB
  Long Sault

  From: Chuck S 
  Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:41 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt

  Surprised Edson didn't offer a replacement of some kind.  
  Are you sure you need flatheat?  Our pedestal bolts are 1/2 hex head and 6 
cut down. 


  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Atlantic City, NJ


--
  From: Persuasion mailto:persuasio...@gmail.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:09:04 PM
  Subject: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt


  Help

  I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum bolts 
only loosened about 1 1/2 turns then seized.  All I could do was drill it out.  
Now I’m having difficulty finding a replacement.  I called Edson and they 
advised me that they no longer carry the 6” bolt.  Thanks CC for making an 
extra heavy cockpit sole.  

  So does anyone know where I can source a flat head 1/2” X 6” (5” would work) 
aluminum bolt.  If a pinch I would use a stainless.

  Thanks

  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 Keel/CB
  Long Sault

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Stus-List Fw: 35-1 galley down light

2013-07-27 Thread Persuasion
Let the games begin!!!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Russ  Melody 
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 3:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 galley down light

Hi Dennis,

Try a different approach to the problem... pour the Admiral another glass o' 
wine and reassure her that she can do the dishes in the morning. :)

Oh my.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 12:32 PM 27/07/2013, you wrote:

  Started a new project today. Ken's pics of his really nice overhead down 
lights got me thinking. The galley light in the 35-1 is tucked under the deck 
so it doesn't provide much light for the sink. Directly above the sink is a 
winch access panel. Would it be possible to mount a down light in the panel? 
Two questions immediately popped up. First, can I get a wire in there?  Second, 
can I find a light that will fit the shallow space? I've answered the first 
question. After several attempts, I managed to fish a messenger string into the 
space. A fish tape wouldn't work. I worked a coat hanger from the access 
between the headliner and cabin roof down the curved corner of the cabin roof 
to pop out under the forward part of the cockpit coaming.  I might have to pull 
a small wire like AWG 16 but I'll be using an LED light so no biggie. I've 
measured the space and it's only 1 inch deep because of some added deck 
strengthening.  If I can't find a 1 inch deep LED down light I can always make 
a bezel trim to add to the access panel.  Anybody found a good one?  Needs to 
be 2 inch diameter or less. I also need to determine how and where to put the 
switch if there's not one on the fixture. 
  Dennis C. Touché 







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Stus-List Fw: HELP aluminum bolt

2013-07-26 Thread Persuasion
yea it has a slotted head.  If I could find some 1/2” aluminum ready rod or a 
hex head bolt I could probably shape it into a flat head and slot it with a 
hacksaw. 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Chuck S 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt

Surprised Edson didn't offer a replacement of some kind.  
Are you sure you need flatheat?  Our pedestal bolts are 1/2 hex head and 6 
cut down. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From: Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:09:04 PM
Subject: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt


Help

I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum bolts 
only loosened about 1 1/2 turns then seized.  All I could do was drill it out.  
Now I’m having difficulty finding a replacement.  I called Edson and they 
advised me that they no longer carry the 6” bolt.  Thanks CC for making an 
extra heavy cockpit sole.  

So does anyone know where I can source a flat head 1/2” X 6” (5” would work) 
aluminum bolt.  If a pinch I would use a stainless.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

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Stus-List Fw: Fw: HELP aluminum bolt

2013-07-26 Thread Persuasion
Steve

Thanks for the suggestion.  I called them and they have aluminum hex bolts.  So 
a little filing and it should work.

Isn’t this list awesome!!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Steve Thomas 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 8:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: HELP aluminum bolt

You could try these guys. 

http://www.faccafasteners.com/index.html

I have no experience with their online service since there is a store local to 
me, but they can source just about any kind of fastener. I have had a positive 
experience with them overall, as have most of the people I've talked to on that 
subject. I got bronze wood screws for my hand rails and stainless bolts to fit 
my Yanmar from Facca for example.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: HELP aluminum bolt


yea it has a slotted head.  If I could find some 1/2” aluminum ready rod or a 
hex head bolt I could probably shape it into a flat head and slot it with a 
hacksaw. 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Chuck S 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt

Surprised Edson didn't offer a replacement of some kind.  
Are you sure you need flatheat?  Our pedestal bolts are 1/2 hex head and 6 
cut down. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From: Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:09:04 PM
Subject: Stus-List HELP aluminum bolt


Help

I was working on my pedestal this past weekend and one of the aluminum bolts 
only loosened about 1 1/2 turns then seized.  All I could do was drill it out.  
Now I’m having difficulty finding a replacement.  I called Edson and they 
advised me that they no longer carry the 6” bolt.  Thanks CC for making an 
extra heavy cockpit sole.  

So does anyone know where I can source a flat head 1/2” X 6” (5” would work) 
aluminum bolt.  If a pinch I would use a stainless.

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

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Stus-List Fw: CC 37+ Overhead Panels

2013-07-12 Thread Persuasion
but you’ll need a chest of gold!!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Stevan Plavsa 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Overhead Panels

Ken that is really nice, count me among the impressed. I've been thinking of 
how to improve the overhead lighting on my 32 for some time and my boat 
certainly has a lot of overhead panels! 

Those in Toronto who are looking for a good supplier of marine grade wood and 
plywood can get everything like that at a place called Noah's in Etobicoke.

Steve
Sunaha, CC 32
Toronto




On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:

  Call West System, 866-937-879   they are extremely helpful and I am sure will 
turn you on to a few sources.

  Mead gave me a name back in the 70’s for a place in Michigan where we got 
some very nice Birch Marine Grade Plywood, ¼” and 1/8” they recommended for 
their DN Iceboat plans.  I am sure they have other woods as well.  



  Bill Coleman

  CC 39 



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
Schillay
  Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 7:59 PM


  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Overhead Panels


  Dammit Ken,



  You just gave me #1 on my winter project list. That looks amazing!



  If I didn't love ya, I'd hate ya. 



  Anyone know of a good resource for 3/16 teak or marine plywood? 



  All the best,



  Edd



  ---

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  NCC-1701-B

  CC 37+ | City Island, NY

  www.StarshipSailing.com

  ---

  914.332.4400  | Office

  914.332.1671  | Fax

  914.774.9767  | Mobile

  ---

  Sent via iPhone 5


  On Jul 11, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote:

  A better view of the overhead panels: 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XslQftYEYkE/T0rc5vKiWBI/AFA/tjA6Yl1yZ04/w1364-h1023-no/IMG_1776.JPG



  and a closeup of the panel over the passageway aft: 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W40NQzC-q44/T00a826WljI/BvA/UTwvHg2HURI/w1364-h1023-no/DSC08408.JPG



  The plywood may be mahogany, I'm not sure now...



  Ken H.



  On 11 July 2013 19:31, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote:

  Yup, that's our interior.  The panels are made of a 3/16 thick teak veneer 
plywood, cut using the old plastic panels as patterns.  We replaced the two 
next to the mast, the one over the galley sink and the one over the walkway to 
the aft cabin.  We left the white plastic one in the heads as it is over the 
shower.  They are still held up with velcro, it seems to hold very well.



  We took out the florescents that were above them and put in down lights in 
the wood panels instead, an easy job as the wiring doesn't need to change.  The 
down lights used to be halogen but we put Marine Beam LED inserts in them this 
year.



  Ken H.



  On 11 July 2013 17:37, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

Ken,



Is that interior your boat? I'm especially fascinated/interested in those 
(wood?) ceiling panels on each side of the mast and over the support railing in 
the galley. What are they made of? What make are those bright lights on either 
side of the mast? 



I have some white translucent panels on mine, which are cracked in places, 
kinda ugly, and they have lights underneath. Always wanted to replace them. 
There are two more, too - one above the galley in the walkway to the aft cabin 
and one in the head. 





All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website



On Jul 11, 2013, at 4:13 PM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote:





Of course I'm with Josh and Edd on this.  The 37+ is the last and best of 
the Rob Ball CC's.



(Yes Rob did the 34+ just after but the 34+ is just a baby 37+)



Oh, and if you have never seen the aft cabin on a 37+ it looks like this: 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-012Obd94ATA/T00NoOqd4PI/BDo/yzYMUFphrBo/w600-h434-no/Nina14.jpg



My wife is quite fond of that cabin...



The rest of the interior ain't too shabby either: 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SGUTt8WmoBs/TMzYnKHI4HI/Jkg/_m8Hr53wRsk/w958-h719-no/IMG_1779.JPG




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aahIPlK4ALA/S3yIdzFKWOI/Jkg/wKyCXdqfjDU/w958-h660-no/40b3p0203.jpg



Need I say more??



Ken H.









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Stus-List Fw: Introduction and gastric reflux

2013-07-12 Thread Persuasion
I trust that the pump was set in the right position.  This happened to me once 
(OK maybe more) and I found the pump set to flush and as we were sailing the 
bowl filled up.

Good luck

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Peter Delean 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 7:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Introduction and gastric reflux

The “gastric reflux” of the head seems to be gravity related, and only happens 
when the boat is moving in waters with some wave activity.

 

The bowl half fills, requiring a “dry” flush to clear it again.

 

Upon arrival, we had the holding tank pumped out, but haven’t tested since. I 
suspect it has much to do with hoses and hose placement.

 

If the boat is sitting, everything is fine.

 

Peter Delean

North Bay, ON

Drifter II

CC 30 Mk1




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Stus-List Fw: Best CC's of all time

2013-07-12 Thread Persuasion
Dave

I’m just sitting back listening to everyone rant about their boat knowing full 
well that I have the best boat on the planet.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Dave Godwin 
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 11:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

What, no list-love for the Rob Ball designed, original 37-footer?  There must 
be someone out there who likes them other than me. I hope... 

Cheers,
Dave
1982 (unloved) CC 37 - Ronin

On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:


  The 30mkI definitely needs to be on the list; and I would add the LF38.  
Also, the 35mkI as others have mentioned.


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

  On Jul 10, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:


I know we’d all vote for our own boat….. but the 38-40’s models had, 
for me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet………. I sail 
one of the 38MKII’s built in Bruckman’s yard #125…get more complements on 
that boat still after 36 years … Majestic Blue (recent)….original deck 
color….Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the deck) all make it just 
right

 

Ron C.

 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

 

Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II 
because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than the 
newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a CC 121 (flame retardant suit on) and she 
is a rocket ship.  Very nice!

 

Gary

 

On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:

Hi Dennis,

I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built the 
company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO 

She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
To: robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a 
good layout and sailed really well.
The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours 
cruising with my old dad on his.
I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what 
a joy to sail and look at that boat!
The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any experience 
with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that resulted in 
acquiring Peregrine.
Andy



Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840



At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:

  OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.

  Discussion starts.NOW!

  Dennis C.

   

  From: robertlma...@gmail.com robertlma...@gmail.com

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:13 PM

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

   

  What I personally would find interesting is what this esteemed group 
thinks are the top ten CCs of all time? The reason for your choice would also 
be of interest. 

  Rob 


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Stus-List Canada day

2013-07-01 Thread Persuasion
HAPPY CANADA DAY!!!

and

HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY on July 4th for all our friends south of the border.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Stus-List Fw: 29-2 keel bolts

2013-06-24 Thread Persuasion
Bob

Several years ago a friend of mine sailing out of Whitby Yacht club had a 
relatively minor grounding (his words).  No visible damage but on 
recommendations of other friends he pull his boat and there was considerable 
damage to ribs.  Something about the deep keel and relatively short base.  For 
piece of mind I get someone to look at it.  

It’s kind of ironic that after years of stalling your channel finally gets 
dredged and you ground your boat on the spoils.  Hopefully the rock in the 
middle is gone.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Bob Hickson 
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2013 6:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List 29-2 keel bolts

I have a 29-2 that I bought a year ago.

Up until 3 weeks ago there were no leaks into the bilge around the keel bolts / 
mast step.

The channel between the bay where I keep the boat and Lake Ontario is currently 
under re-construction and dredging.

Three weeks ago, I hit a “pile of mud / sand” that they had left in the middle 
of the channel at 5.5 knots.

The boat blew through the pile of mud but the impact was relatively severe and 
it threw the entire crew off our feet.

Now I have visible seepage ( a cup full every ½ hour) around all the keel bolts.

There are no visible signs of damage to the hull or structural “egg crate” 
inside the hull.

Today, I removed the nut and washer from the small keel bolt (1/2 inch) at the 
rear edge of the keel

Was very surprised to see a ½ inch bolt in a 1’ hole with no filler or sealant 
between the sides of the hole and the bolt.

You can poke a screw driver 4 to 5 inches down into the hole beside the bolt 
without felling any sealant at all.

This seems very strangeI would expect some kind of sealant to be present 
around the bolt?

Does anyone know of a way to force sealant down into the water filled gap 
around the bolt to seal it at least temporarily until haul out in the fall?

If successful on the small bolt, I will try the others one at a time.

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club

Pickering, ON

(416) 919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com

 

 __/) 

 



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Stus-List prop

2013-06-04 Thread Persuasion
Any one have any experience with a Kiwi prop?  I been thinking about one for a 
couple of years now.  The reviews seem to say they are good for a couple of 
years then they start to fail, pins or something.

Any comments would be appreciated good or bad.

Thanks
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
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Stus-List Fw: Keel/Centerboard Racing

2013-05-30 Thread Persuasion
Edd

My board has been up for about 5 years now (stuck some how and to lazy to find 
out why).  Prior to that I lowered it rarely, perhaps in a stiff blow.  I don’t 
miss it, then again I’m not a racer.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Keel/Centerboard Racing

Listers, 

For those of you with a keel/centerboard on their CC, I would love to have 
some of your experience on when to deploy and when not to -- and if you ever 
use it partially. 

Most of the time, we're board-down for upwind sailing and board-up for 
downwind, but lately I'm noticing that in light air, it may make sense to keep 
the board up upwind to reduce drag. Or does part-way down make sense?

What are your thoughts?




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website





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Stus-List cockpit sole

2013-05-30 Thread Persuasion
Has any one applied Plasdeck or a similar product to their cockpit sole.  I’m 
contemplating doing a DIY install.  Can anyone advise about any pitfalls I 
might encounter? 

Thanks

Mike
S/V Persuasion
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Stus-List Fw: CC 35 MKII

2013-05-25 Thread Persuasion
HMP in Toronto had stanchions and bases when I need them, but if South Shore 
has them then that is the place to go.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 35 MKII

Try south shore Yachts iin Canada

Joel Aronson 


On May 25, 2013, at 1:13 PM, Spiro Carras spirocar...@gmail.com wrote:



  I have a 1974 CC 35 MKII and i want to know where can I get  stanchion bases 
and stanchions with the ring on top and a hole in the middle for the lifelines. 
Also i have a question in terms of the nuts that hold the keel should those be 
tighten occasionally or checked or we should leave them alone. i see  some 
water dripping on the keel  (while on the hard) should i fiberglass around the 
keel to strengthen the bond between the keel and the hull? ANY IDEAS

  thanks
  Spiro Carras
  spirocar...@gmail.com
  9174884402
  -- 

  -- 

  Spiro Carras  Producer / Director  HD4K-DI Studio *Cineguild 
Entertainment Group* New York -- Los Angeles -- Athens  Tel: 001 (917) 
488-4402 *   E-mail: spirocar...@gmail.com 


  
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or from third party recipients.
  
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Re: Stus-List Launch!

2013-05-21 Thread Persuasion
I think you forgot mosquito season!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 4:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!

Actually, local wits like to say we either have two seasons (Winter and Road 
Construction) or four seasons (Winter, June, July and August). 

We've just happened to have had a really strange transition out of winter this 
year.  Back and forth from high's in the 70's and 80's F, to snow and high's in 
the 30's F, all in the same week (sometimes several times that week).  Now 
we're getting thunderstorms and torrential rain.  The temps are still running 
ten to twenty degrees F below normal for this time of year.

Without wanting to start a pseudo-political $#!+storm, I think the instability 
and wild swings are indicative of the kinds of weather changes we've been 
warned about by the climate scientists.  And the HUGE weather systems making 
their way across the country of late are on a much larger scale than what we've 
seen in the past (we had severe weather the same day from the same system that 
slammed Oklahoma, 800 miles away).

Hopefully, after the long wait to get back in the water, we'll have a summer 
worthy of the name this year.  I hope that for all of my pals on the list, as 
well.

-- Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 21, 2013, at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote:


  Must be one of those two season places:
  Winter and August.


  Joe Della Barba

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
Aronson
  Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 3:10 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Launch!
   
  Congrats!  Is Fall haulout in August?




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Stus-List Fw: removing headliner access panels

2013-04-24 Thread Persuasion
Replacement washers and buttons are available at Home Depot

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Pat Nevitt 
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List removing headliner access panels

Take a thin blade pocket knife and slip it under the edge and they will pop 
right off, exposing the head of the screw underneath


On Wed, Apr 24, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hi All, 

  My 32 has those little white round buttons that hold the liner panels in 
place. I have no idea how to remove these! Any insight? I'de like to reuse them 
of course unless they are designed for one time use like rivets or something .. 
in which case I'de like to know where to get replacements!
  Thanks,

  Steve
  CC 32
  Toronto


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Stus-List Fw: Fwd: the day after...

2013-04-24 Thread Persuasion
You are ahead of us.  Ours go in Saturday.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Ken Heaton 
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: the day after...

Ah yes, but here in Sydney, Nova Scotia we're at 46° N, 60° W.  Actually, the 
crossing point of that meridian and parallel is just off the side of the road a 
few miles south of town. We just put the docks in at the Dobson Yacht Club 
marina for the season on the weekend. 

Ken H.



On 22 April 2013 17:38, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

  You are north of us in Nova Scotia. I'm in a car heading south back to 
Halifax and we just passed the sign noting 45N!

  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-04-22, at 17:31, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:


  45°26′38″N 93°35′27″W 


  Over 100 miles NORTH of Toronto.  Go figure...



  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Apr 22, 2013, at 3:25 PM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote:


What's your lat/long?


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-22, at 17:07, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote:


I actually live farther north than many Canadians; like Colin, for example… 
  :^)


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Stus-List bottom paint

2013-04-23 Thread Persuasion
Well I decided to paint the bottom yesterday.  I had picked up some VC17 a 
couple of weeks ago and it was warm enough yesterday to paint.  Normally 3 cans 
will do the job.  Well I had an unfortunate surprise.  Interlux finally decided 
to go metric in Canada (about time).  In the past the cans were marked 1 US 
quart well now they are 750 ml. all for the same price as last year.  Way to go 
Interlux you got a 20% mark up on your product and it cost you nothing.

Buyer beware!

Mike
S/V Persuasion
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Stus-List Fw: Fw: Stowing stuff on your boat

2013-04-19 Thread Persuasion
What’s where by cinnamon

http://www.cinnamonsoftware.com/whats_where.htm

Have fun

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: David Knecht 
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Persuasion 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Stowing stuff on your boat

I can't find software by that name anywhere.  Do you have a link?  Dave 

On Apr 18, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:


  Fred

  After some recommendations from this list I downloaded “what’s where” and I 
am impressed.  You can import a drawing of your boat, add labels to various 
locations and then build a data base.  It is freeware though you can donate if 
you desire.

  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  CC 37 Keel/CB
  Long Sault
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred 
Hazzard
  Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat
   
  Most boaters stow all kinds of things on their boats.  I am no exception.  In 
fact my wife thinks I am pack rat.   When locating or remembering what I have 
on board became a problem I inventoried everything and wrote up a list of where 
it is stowed.  While this has helped, it is not easy to use when looking for a 
particular item since I have inventoried items by the locker where it is 
stowed.  Thus, when I want to find a particular item I have to search the 
inventory in each locker.  Creating a cross reference would help, but I find 
that task a little daunting.
   
  This brings me to the point of this email.   Do any of you have a computer 
program to list and locate your stuff on board?
   
  Fred Hazzard
  S/V Fury
  CC 44
  Portland, Or
   
   


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David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)





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Stus-List Fw: Stowing stuff on your boat

2013-04-18 Thread Persuasion
Fred

After some recommendations from this list I downloaded “what’s where” and I am 
impressed.  You can import a drawing of your boat, add labels to various 
locations and then build a data base.  It is freeware though you can donate if 
you desire.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 1:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stowing stuff on your boat

 

Most boaters stow all kinds of things on their boats.  I am no exception.  In 
fact my wife thinks I am pack rat.   When locating or remembering what I have 
on board became a problem I inventoried everything and wrote up a list of where 
it is stowed.  While this has helped, it is not easy to use when looking for a 
particular item since I have inventoried items by the locker where it is 
stowed.  Thus, when I want to find a particular item I have to search the 
inventory in each locker.  Creating a cross reference would help, but I find 
that task a little daunting.

 

This brings me to the point of this email.   Do any of you have a computer 
program to list and locate your stuff on board?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland, Or

 

 




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Stus-List Fw: Adhesive

2013-04-12 Thread Persuasion

I used FRP from HomeDepot



Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Jake Brodersen

Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 6:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adhesive

Joel,

I painted the bare plywood.  Looks great after five years.  I'll post some
pics to dropbox when I get a chance.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
CC 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Adhesive

When I rebuilt the access panels I used a 3m spray adhesive to glue the
vinyl to the wood. It is already coming unglued. Any recommendation on which
adhesive to use?

Joel Aronson

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Re: Stus-List Question

2013-04-10 Thread Persuasion

KY


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13


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Stus-List Fw: Question

2013-04-10 Thread Persuasion
KY


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: April 10, 2013 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Question

Background on the question..replaced the muffler and mixing elbow 
today.first time for me doing this job, second time for my mentor 
who assistedhe was the more experienced at these tasks, thank 
godgot to the last part of the job and ran into the old saying, 
there are no easy jobs. couldn't get the 2 hose to the muffler on 
the mixing elbow end the mixing elbow has a small 'lip' that is the 
challenge.went on easy over the lip on the new Vernalift 
mufflerworked on it until I called quit.put on liquid dish 
detergent  heat gun .put the hose in hot waterclose but 
close doesn't countcan't get enough leverage to push it up over the 
lip of the mixing elbowreally frustrating.

Before someone says do you have the correct hose sizeyes...2 hard 
wall marine hose came off. the same is going on.I had to cut the 
old one off on the mixing elbow side.

A smart guy, which I wasn't today, would have put the mixing elbow side 
hose on in the vice grip on the work bench and not when you are on your 
side in the engine compartment with little to no leverage. Mixing elbow 
is not coming off going back to the workbench to get his hose on even if 
I have to go to a slightly bigger hose.

I need some really innovative ideas to stretch the 2 hose to get it 
over the end of the mixing elbow. Don't tell me to use soap, heat, 
hot water.tried all of those today.I need a really innovative 
solution...

There is no problem that can't be overcome..help me please!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5736 - Release Date: 04/10/13


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Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

2013-03-29 Thread Persuasion
Fred

When I gave up on PolyGlo we used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove it completely.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Poly Glo removal

I am needing to remove stained Poly Glo.  I have some liquid to remove it, but 
if I need more I recall that someone on our list gave a homemade solution.  

 

Any suggestions what I should use?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland Or 




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Stus-List Fw: Fw: Poly Glo removal

2013-03-29 Thread Persuasion
Fred

I word of caution.  If you use oven cleaner to remove Poly Glo from your deck 
be careful oven cleaner is caustic and can burn.  When we remove it from our 
deck the Admiral was on her hands and knees scrubbing and receive a serious 
chemical burn.  Yes yes I was there too but I was using a scrub brush on a 
handle.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Fred Hazzard 
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 2:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

Sam, 

 

Contrary to Poly Glo recommendations I used Poly Glo on the decks.   Over time 
the Poly Glo became stained with air pollution and looked quite bad.  Thus,  my 
need to remove it.

 

Fred

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

 

Fred,

Why did you give up on Poly Glow? 

I was thinking about trying it!

Sam Salter 

CC 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 

sam :-) 403-617-6280

  From: Persuasion

  Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 10:43 AM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Subject: Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal
 

 

Fred

 

When I gave up on PolyGlo we used Easy Off oven cleaner to remove it completely.

 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

 

From: Fred Hazzard 

Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 12:19 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Stus-List Poly Glo removal

 

I am needing to remove stained Poly Glo.  I have some liquid to remove it, but 
if I need more I recall that someone on our list gave a homemade solution.  

 

Any suggestions what I should use?

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

CC 44

Portland Or 




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Stus-List Fw: Poly Glo removal

2013-03-29 Thread Persuasion

We had no luck with poly prep.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault
-Original Message- 
From: Colin Kilgour

Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 5:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Poly Glo removal

Polyprep works too...


On 3/29/13, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:
Try Zep Heavy Duty Floor Stripper - concentrate - from Lowe's. Dilute it 
(or
do as my boat partner's husband did and lay it on full strength - wow, 
it's

strong). Wear gloves and be careful.

Gary Nylander
Penniless
Maryland


  - Original Message -
  From: Fred Hazzard
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 12:19 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Poly Glo removal


  I am needing to remove stained Poly Glo.  I have some liquid to remove 
it,

but if I need more I recall that someone on our list gave a homemade
solution.



  Any suggestions what I should use?



  Fred Hazzard

  S/V Fury

  CC 44

  Portland Or



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Stus-List Fw: Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-26 Thread Persuasion
Fred

I had the Admiral call Defender today and order the Si Tex transceiver and 
splitter.  First time shopping at Defender and it looks like it won’t be the 
last as they even honoured their weekend price (usual disclaimers).

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 4:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

Go for the Si-Tex -- it has both versions of NMEA (0183 and 2k), as well as USB 
for the laptop.  Their VHF splitter would be a good add-on, as well.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 25, 2013, at 11:45 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:


  Dennis

  I’m looking for a transponder to interface with my pc charting software.  I 
consider AIS just another tool in my collision avoidance toolbox.

  From: Dennis C. 
  Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 9:19 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

  Mike,

  Did you want a transponder or just a receiver?  If just a receiver, consider 
a VHF radio with AIS. I have a one interfaced with my chart plotter. 

  Also having an AIS can give a false sense of security. Not all vessels have 
AIS.  

  Dennis C. 

  Sent from my iPhone

  On Mar 25, 2013, at 7:13 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:


Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an AIS.  The 
problem is which one.  It will be connected directly to the pc chart plotter.  
The Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look promising.  

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault





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Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-25 Thread Persuasion
Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an AIS.  The problem 
is which one.  It will be connected directly to the pc chart plotter.  The 
Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look promising.  

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Bob
No I will connect it to the plotter. 

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908id=1849984

Joel Aronson 


On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com wrote:


  Joel, 
  Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
  
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

  Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They 
seem to occupy the value space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

  Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the mouth 
of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech AIS 
receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and relatively 
inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in for repairs at 
Green Cove Springs. w00t.

  As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of 
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
  Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of a 
chart? 

  I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and 
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a 
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby situational awareness - kinda like 
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

  Bob M
  Ox 33-1
  Jax, FL

  On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

Joel Aronson



On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Fellow CCers

 Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
can help?

 Thanks

 --
 Mike
 S/V Persuasion
 CC 37 K/CB


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Stus-List Fw: Fw: (no subject) now AIS

2013-03-25 Thread Persuasion
Joe

Raymarine/Garmin are names I know.  Joel mention SiTex and I check them out and 
liked what I saw.  Looked at Milltech but am still unsure.  I’m always open to 
recommendations.

Mike

From: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 8:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

I can’t think of any bad units, but those are not the cheapest ones out there.

Any reason you are not looking at the others? Do you need a display on the unit 
itself?

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2013 8:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: (no subject) now AIS

 

Thanks to those that responded.  I’m now convinced I want an AIS.  The problem 
is which one.  It will be connected directly to the pc chart plotter.  The 
Raymarine, Garmin and SiTex (new to me) all look promising.  

 

Mike

S/V Persuasion

CC 37 Keel/CB

Long Sault

 

From: Joel Aronson 

Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:40 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Bob

No I will connect it to the plotter. 

 

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908id=1849984

Joel Aronson 

 


On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com wrote:

  Joel, 

  Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?

  
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

   

  Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They 
seem to occupy the value space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

   

  Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the mouth 
of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech AIS 
receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and relatively 
inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in for repairs at 
Green Cove Springs. w00t.

   

  As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of 
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?

  Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of a 
chart? 

   

  I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and 
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a 
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby situational awareness - kinda like 
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

   

  Bob M

  Ox 33-1

  Jax, FL

   

  On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

  I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

  Joel Aronson



  On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

   Hey Fellow CCers
  
   Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
can help?
  
   Thanks
  
   --
   Mike
   S/V Persuasion
   CC 37 K/CB


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Stus-List (no subject)

2013-03-22 Thread Persuasion
Hey Fellow CCers

Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road
that can help?

Thanks

-- 
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
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Stus-List Fw: Boat registration

2013-03-20 Thread Persuasion
Rich

A registered vessel also has an official number.  Although it is not displayed 
on the outside it must be displayed inside in a conspicuous location along with 
the NRT.

Now to the important question:  Why is your boat registered in Grand Manan?

For those that want to do a search on registered vessels.
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/4/vrqs-srib/m.aspx?lang=e

Mike  
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 Keel C/B

From: Knowles Rich 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat registration

That is a license number. A registered vessel just has the name and port of 
registry on the hull. Registered vessels also have unique names. Indigo is 
registered and the only registered Indigo in Canada.

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-03-20, at 15:30, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote:


I seem to recall I was given very specific registration numbers and directions 
on size, color and where to apply  NS42475

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: March 20, 2013 3:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat registration

 

If you put numbers on, it's licensed. 

Rich Knowles

Indigo. LF38

Halifax


On 2013-03-20, at 15:19, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote:

I was talked into registering my boat by some government people at their booth 
at the Halifax Boat show a few years ago.  It was free and it seemed like a 
good idea so I did it and put the registration numbers for either side of the 
bow as per instructions.

 

As a result of that and about 2 years later but 6 years after I had actually 
purchased the boat, the NS government came looking for proof of taxes paid.  
The papers I got from the broker were very useful, thankfully I had saved them, 
they showed that the government had received the tax money but I still had to 
prove it 6 years later.  Save all of the documents that you get.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar
Sent: March 20, 2013 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat registration

 


Thanks for all the info on the possible CC30 purchase.

One of the responses brought up an unconsidered issue - maybe the others in 
Nova Scotia and Canada can comment.

I got a price on shipping the boat back - initial estimate is ~$5000 plus 
getting it on and off the trailer (Sealand).  Estimate from a professional 
captain is ~$3000 to sail it back for me.  Or I could sail it back myself 
(which sound like an adventure, provided all goes smoothly!!!) -- So if I go 
ahead more likely

Bob Hickson raised the issue of getting a boat registered.  I had not really 
thought about it.  I didn't do anything to register or transfer ownership of my 
current Mirage 24 (but it only has an 8Hp outboard), nor did I register a 16 ft 
bowrider I bought and sold several years back.

I don't recall seeing boats around the club with the typical license codes on 
the bow (I do recall that from Ontario)

Looking online - I can't find anything specific with Nova Scotia - but 
Transport Canada
(http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/mediaroom/backgrounders-b04-m055e-1329.htm)
says 




Licensing and registration

All pleasure craft, which are principally maintained and operated in Canada and 
powered by one or more motors adding up to 7.5 kW (10 hp) or more must be 
either licensed or registered.

and




Note:
You must display your pleasure craft licence number:

!--[if !supportLists]--· !--[endif]--above the waterline;

!--[if !supportLists]--· !--[endif]--on both sides of the bow;

!--[if !supportLists]--· !--[endif]--in block characters not less 
than 7.5 centimetres (3 inches) high; and

!--[if !supportLists]--· !--[endif]--in a contrasting colour to the 
vessel colour.


Maybe I've just been ignoring the issue and got away with it?

Advice appreciated.

Mark





--  -  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca- There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George Santayana


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5691 - Release Date: 03/20/13

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240

Stus-List Fw: Boat registration

2013-03-20 Thread Persuasion
Registration is not free.  In ‘06 it cost $250.00

Mike

From: dwight veinot 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat registration

I was talked into registering my boat by some government people at their booth 
at the Halifax Boat show a few years ago.  It was free and it seemed like a 
good idea so I did it and put the registration numbers for either side of the 
bow as per instructions.

 

As a result of that and about 2 years later but 6 years after I had actually 
purchased the boat, the NS government came looking for proof of taxes paid.  
The papers I got from the broker were very useful, thankfully I had saved them, 
they showed that the government had received the tax money but I still had to 
prove it 6 years later.  Save all of the documents that you get.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar
Sent: March 20, 2013 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat registration

 


Thanks for all the info on the possible CC30 purchase.

One of the responses brought up an unconsidered issue - maybe the others in 
Nova Scotia and Canada can comment.

I got a price on shipping the boat back - initial estimate is ~$5000 plus 
getting it on and off the trailer (Sealand).  Estimate from a professional 
captain is ~$3000 to sail it back for me.  Or I could sail it back myself 
(which sound like an adventure, provided all goes smoothly!!!) -- So if I go 
ahead more likely

Bob Hickson raised the issue of getting a boat registered.  I had not really 
thought about it.  I didn't do anything to register or transfer ownership of my 
current Mirage 24 (but it only has an 8Hp outboard), nor did I register a 16 ft 
bowrider I bought and sold several years back.

I don't recall seeing boats around the club with the typical license codes on 
the bow (I do recall that from Ontario)

Looking online - I can't find anything specific with Nova Scotia - but 
Transport Canada
(http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/mediaroom/backgrounders-b04-m055e-1329.htm)
says 



Licensing and registration

All pleasure craft, which are principally maintained and operated in Canada and 
powered by one or more motors adding up to 7.5 kW (10 hp) or more must be 
either licensed or registered.

and



Note:
You must display your pleasure craft licence number:

·   above the waterline;

·   on both sides of the bow;

·   in block characters not less than 7.5 centimetres (3 inches) high; 
and

·   in a contrasting colour to the vessel colour.


Maybe I've just been ignoring the issue and got away with it?

Advice appreciated.

Mark




--  -  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca- There is no cure for birth 
and death save to enjoy the interval.  - George Santayana


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5691 - Release Date: 03/20/13




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Stus-List Fw: Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Persuasion
Joel

I’ve replaced the access panels on my headliner with 1/8” FRP that can be 
bought at Home Depot in 4 X 8 sheets.  Used the old panels as templates.  I 
tried attaching a couple of panels with velcro.  Didn’t like the look.  Too 
thick.  Next I tried screws like the originals were attached.  Admiral didn’t 
like.  Tried a couple of panels with 4200 and screws.  Had to remove these 
panels to get rid of the screws.  Admiral’s order.  I found the 4200 to be very 
effective.  Next spring all panels will be secured with 4200 only.  To dress up 
the headliner itself I painted that with Intrelux Brightside Blue Glo White.  
IMHO the shiny stipple texture of the FRB with the blue glo white certainly 
lightened up the salon.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 
Stormont Yacht Club
http://www.stormontyachtclub.ca/

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too thick.  
Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or found a 
replacement?  What glue would you use? 

Thanks!


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551




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Stus-List Fw: Fuel pump

2012-09-12 Thread Persuasion
Thanks for the suggestions Rich and Martin.  I thought the question would bring 
more responses from those who installed an electric pump.  On my cruise I met a 
guy who couldn’t say enough about switching to an electric pump.  Any way I’ve 
decide to replace the pump in kind and perhaps I’ll buy an electric one as a 
spare.

Thanks again;
Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 

From: Martin DeYoung 
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 8:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel pump

Mike,

 

I did not see any reply specific to Yanmar fuel pumps but here is what I used 
on Calypso to lift the fuel from the tank:

Walbro Variable Frequency Reciprocating Fuel Pump, p/n FRB-22-2.  It was +- 
$110.00 at Fisheries Supply, Seattle and online.

 

I ran that pump for about 150 hours last year and it worked great.  For 
Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 the lift pump draws the fuel from the tank and pushes 
towards the engine mounted mechanical pump.  If the mech pump fails the 
electric will fill in however if the mech’s bellows fails the electrical pump 
could pump fuel into the crankcase.  Prepping for our trip around Vancouver 
Island I replaced both pumps and carried spare fuel system parts.

 

Back in the 980’s I owned a 1980 CC 36 that had an apparent electrical lift 
pump failure (engine died at idle) that turned out to be a blown fuse hidden on 
the back of the engine.  Took me 90 minutes to find that one.  Fuse blew 
sometime during a 6 hour motor, at night (lights and radar running).  The mech 
fuel pump was able to keep up at cruise RPM but not at idle.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle




From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2012 6:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel pump

 

Hi.  I need help selecting an inline lift (fuel) pump.  While on our annual 
vacation our engine (3HM30F) started acting funny.  After running for 20+ 
minutes in the 2000-2200 rpm range the throttle would become unresponsive when 
put back to idle.  I would have to work the throttle to get the engine to idle 
and it would have to be 1000 rpm or more to keep from stalling.  Also; I’d have 
to put the tranny in neutral.  After a couple of minutes the throttle would 
return to normal.  If running in the 1500-1800 range there are no throttle 
issues.  I have notices that the engine cranks a little longer than usual 
before staring.  Perhaps 4-6 revolutions instead on the normal 2.  Anyway while 
on vacation the mechanic that replaced two copper washers on a couple of banjo 
fittings for $200.00 said my lift pump was gone.  Fortunately his $190.00 pump 
didn’t arrive on time.  Torrenson had one for less than $90.00.  

 

After spending another week in the Kingston/Thousand Island area we returned 
home without any issues but then again I kept the rpm below 2K and it was all 
down hill so to speak.

 

Not sure is the lift pump is truly shot but for peace of mind I’m going to 
install an electric fuel pump and I’m looking for recommendations.  Any 
particular make/model, gph, etc.

 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 




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Stus-List Fw: Transmission oil

2012-09-07 Thread Persuasion
Pat

See below from my shop manual.  The oil is dependent upon the transmission 
model.  I think warming the transmission before an oil change is a good idea.

Transmission Oil
Transmission models KM2A, KM2C, KM2P, KM3A und KM3P
The recommended transmission oil is an engine oil that meets API classification 
CC.  The recommended viscosity is SAE IOW-30. Change the transmission oil after 
every 250 hours of operation.

Transmission models KBWI0D and KBWI0E
The recommended transmission oil is automatic transmission oil (ATF). The oil 
must be classified a Dexron oil.
Change the transmission oil after every 250 hours of operation.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 

From: Pat Nevitt 
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Transmission oil

Is it necessary to use a marine grade oil in the transmission of a Yanmar?  For 
the engine I always use the marine grade stuff, but it seems to me that the 
manual isn't specific regarding the transmission.  Should you run the engine 
and put the transmission in gear for 15 minutes or so to warm the oil up before 
you change it like you do with a car?  Seems to make sense, but again, I didn't 
see that in the manual.




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Stus-List Fuel pump

2012-09-05 Thread Persuasion
Hi.  I need help selecting an inline lift (fuel) pump.  While on our annual 
vacation our engine (3HM30F) started acting funny.  After running for 20+ 
minutes in the 2000-2200 rpm range the throttle would become unresponsive when 
put back to idle.  I would have to work the throttle to get the engine to idle 
and it would have to be 1000 rpm or more to keep from stalling.  Also; I’d have 
to put the tranny in neutral.  After a couple of minutes the throttle would 
return to normal.  If running in the 1500-1800 range there are no throttle 
issues.  I have notices that the engine cranks a little longer than usual 
before staring.  Perhaps 4-6 revolutions instead on the normal 2.  Anyway while 
on vacation the mechanic that replaced two copper washers on a couple of banjo 
fittings for $200.00 said my lift pump was gone.  Fortunately his $190.00 pump 
didn’t arrive on time.  Torrenson had one for less than $90.00.  

After spending another week in the Kingston/Thousand Island area we returned 
home without any issues but then again I kept the rpm below 2K and it was all 
down hill so to speak.

Not sure is the lift pump is truly shot but for peace of mind I’m going to 
install an electric fuel pump and I’m looking for recommendations.  Any 
particular make/model, gph, etc.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
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Stus-List Fw: Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring....

2012-09-01 Thread Persuasion
Reminds me on the time we were anchored in Sodus Bay.  The Admiral reach under 
the stove to get something and when she pulled her hand out she caught the 
spring that holds the gimbal rod in place.  Now what is a poor Canadian to do 
in the US on a Saturday afternoon.. Fortunately friends on ours arrived 
shortly.  He is a veterinarian.  A couple of sips of wine and three staples she 
was as good as new.

Naw; nobody teased her about going to a vet 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 

From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring

Carefully explore the engine compartment bulkheads for the ends of screws 
sticking out.  Fix any you find.  



Pet peeve of mine.  I hate reaching into a tight space and scraping myself on a 
sharp object.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




--
  From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 5:44 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring


  Good thinking  As it turns out, I've got most of the bilge cleaned up and, 
with the exception of the  area yet to be done, it's gloss white and like new. 

  Rich Knowles
  Mistyped by thumb.


  On 2012-08-31, at 13:40, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR 
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil wrote:

   You might want to paint the bilge areas under the engine now that you
   have access to it.
   
   Finding drips/leaks in the future will be easier if the bilge isn't
   already stained with the prior drips/leaks.
   
   Food for thought.
   
   -Keith
   
   
   -Original Message-
   From: Rich Knowles [mailto:r...@sailpower.ca] 
   Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 9:23
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Subject: Stus-List Engine Saga - Continued - may be boring
   
   You may recall my engine decided to revolt a couple months back when it
   blew all its oil into the bilge and almost seized up. After a bit of
   thought and asking a few questions, I bought a low-hour used Yanmar
   3GM30 thinking it would be an easy install. Turned out to be very
   difficult to locate parts to mate it to my Hurth V-drive transmission
   and I eventually gave that idea up and put the engine in my storage
   space.
   
   
   
   After a couple of days of work, I dissembled all the surrounding
   woodwork and weaseled the engine out from under the cockpit sole into
   the aft cabin, an interesting exercise to say the least. I think they
   suspended the engine in mid-air and built the boat around it. I removed
   the carcass with the club jib crane and lugged it off to the local
   engine rebuilding experts. They tore it down to see what caused the
   blow-by which had caused the problem. There was nothing obvious at all
   to be seen other than one of the pistons looked as though some water may
   have got in and possibly seized a ring. They magnafluxed the head and
   all is good. Also, surprisingly, the interior of the block is a clean as
   a whistle with no corrosion or deposits of note. Pretty good for a
   raw-water cooled engine.
   
   
   
   We decided to replace the cylinder liners, pistons and rings, crank
   bearings, exhaust valves, thermostats and motor mounts. Everything is
   available in NA except the head and pan gaskets which are on the way
   from Japan. Total rebuild cost will be around $3,500. Maybe 
   
   
   
   While I'm awaiting the parts, I've been cleaning the bilge and swamping
   out the engine room. I've stripped out a bunch of previously
   inaccessible old wiring and plumbing too and am replacing anything that
   looks suspicious. Lots of dirty fun.
   
   
   
   If anyone needs it, I have a perfectly good low-hour Yanmar 3GM30 for
   sale. I have $4,800 in it and that's what I'm asking.
   
   
   
   More to come as the best summer in years slowly disappears... 
   
   
   
   Rich Knowles
   
   INDIGO - LF38
   
   Halifax, NS
   
   
   
   
   
   
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