Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

1. You don't have to change the injectors just because you need a new head 
gasket but it might be a good time if access is otherwise difficult and/or you 
were planning to do it soon anyway. 

2. You do not need to plane the head unless it is warped or visibly damaged 
from blow by, but it does need to be cleaned carefully and checked to see if it 
is warped. If it was me, I would at least  check all of the other stuff while 
it is out, guides, valve seats, and probably change the valve seals no matter 
what, but if you are on a budget then the essential thing is to make sure that 
the head and the block are clean and flat, and to use the correct sequence and 
torque during reassembly. Cleanliness is extremely important inside the engine. 
If you discover that any of the hoses are getting hard, change them. If you 
don't they will fail soon after reassembly in my experience. 

3. If you do decide to go ahead and do what you can your self, you should at 
least try to find a mechanic willing to do the tricky bits (inspection and 
assembly) and offer instruction on how to do the rest. In general, disassembly 
is less technically complicated than proper assembly, but it can be difficult 
and therefore $$ labour intensive. It is one place you might be able to save 
money safely. There is nothing particularly special about the cylinder head on 
a marine diesel vs any other sort of diesel, so your mechanic need not be 
someone who bills themselves as a marine mechanic. I have found that there are 
people who feel that they should get paid more than they would otherwise for 
the same work just because they are working on an expensive yacht instead of a 
tractor. 

4. Any opinion, including mine, is worth exactly what you paid for it. Good 
luck. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: David via CnC-List 
  To: CNC CNC 
  Cc: David 
  Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2016 14:40
  Subject: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket


  So...we are leaving harbor  to make our way down to Mystic for the 
Rendezvous.   As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water and 
color.

  Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as well.

  I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring.

  Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket.  To 
do the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to $3,000.  
I think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself.   Anyone have 
any experiences around this?   I am a fair mechanic, but I don't want to be 
penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like this before.

  Thanks in advance...



  David F. Risch
  1981 40-2
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Stus-List Newton and Wally

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I hope that Wally is hunkered down in a nice safe marina bar right about 
now.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII 



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Re: Stus-List EV 100 Autopilot

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Fred, 
 I forget the product name, but once upon a time Raymarine sold a 
software only chartplotter application that ran on Microsoft OS computers. Did 
that software ever have any control functions available for any Raymarine 
hardware or was that a stand alone product? 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Frederick G Street 
  Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2016 11:32
  Subject: Re: Stus-List EV 100 Autopilot


  Dave — Ray Control will ONLY work through a WiFi-enbled Raymarine MFD.


  And no, currently the WiFi implementation of the WiFi on the MFDs cannot be 
used to serve out NMEA2k data via WiFi; for that, you’d want something like the 
Digital Yacht box:


  
http://www.digitalyachtamerica.com/index.php/en/products/interfacing/nmea-to-wifi-adaptors/product/52-navlink-wireless-nmea2000-server


  — Fred


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Re: Stus-List The Hunt Is On

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Shallow draft I get, but why a wing keel specifically?
They act like a big suction cup on a muddy bottom, and can be hard to work 
loose. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robert Gallagher 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 11:09
  Subject: Stus-List The Hunt Is On


  Seriously boat shopping. Looking for a 34+ wing keel, reasonable price, in 
New England on the ocean. (Or a CS 36 Merlin)


  If anyone knows of one for sale, or thinking of selling one, give me a shout.


  It's either that or I buy a Catalina 36MKII --- don't make me do it!  I 
swear, I'll do it!


  Rob Gallagher


  Oh and:  http://cncnortheast.com  be there or be square (like Edd)
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Stus-List Pale yellow counter top material

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Anyone found a source for the pale yellow double sided counter top material 
used in the late 70s and early 80s C&C yachts?
No luck with the local building supply stores so far. 
I would like to use matching material if I can. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON ___

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Re: Stus-List Removing 30-1 Exterior Handrails

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

My 27 MKIII has the same style of external hand rails as your 30-1 and on mine 
the forward 2 bases had the two smaller screws per base.

If there are more screws than that, they pretty much have to have been put 
through the headliner. Is it possible that a second screw was installed at a 
bit of an angle through an existing headliner hole? The OEM design doesn't 
provide a lot of strength there, and a PO might have added screws that way. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: RANDY via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: RANDY 
  Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 22:51
  Subject: Stus-List Removing 30-1 Exterior Handrails


  Listers - especially those who have replaced exterior handrails on a 30-1 :)


  I'm hoping you can advise me on how to remove exterior handrails from a 30-1. 
 Specifically, how to un-fasten the forward two bases of each handrail.


  I attempted to remove my exterior handrails today and was unsuccessful.  
There must be some screws into the forward two bases that I can't see from 
inside the boat (and there aren't bungs covering screw heads on the outside).


  Unscrewing the aft four bases of the exterior handrails was straightforward.  
Their screws are shared with or covered by the interior handrails.  So I 
drilled out the bungs on the interior handrails and removed them.  They're held 
on with four long screws that go all the way through into the outside 
handrails.  Once the inside rails are off you can see holes in the cabin liner 
for two more screws per base of the exterior handrails.  Those screws are 
shorter of course and came out easily enough, freeing the aft four bases of the 
exterior handrail.  All those screws had #2 square recessed heads BTW.


  But the forward two bases are perplexing.  On the port side, there were two 
chrome screw covers in the cabin liner above the head sink, and one immediately 
forward and immediately aft of the bulkhead separating the salon from the head. 
 On the starboard side there were two chrome screw covers above the hanging 
locker / shelves, but only one immediately forward of the bulkhead (I don't see 
one aft of the bulkhead).  I popped all those screw covers off, and removed the 
screws they were covering, but that was not sufficient to free the forward two 
bases of the exterior handrails.  There seem to be more screws holding them on, 
whose heads are concealed.


  For those of you 30-1 owners who have replaced your handrails, how did you 
access the screws holding the forward two bases on?  Did you cut a hole in your 
cabin liner?  I'm OK with destructive removal of the old handrails, but worry 
about damaging the fiberglass around the screw holes.  And I probably wouldn't 
be able to fasten the new handrails exactly the same way if I went the 
destructive removal route.


  I put some pictures at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTc093OExfMGRBX1E. I'm hoping 
somebody can tell me the magic answer :)


  Thanks In Advance,
  Randy Stafford
  S/V Grenadine
  C&C 30-1 #7
  Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Owners' Database

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Sounds good Stu.


Steve Thomas

- Original Message - 
From: "Stu via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Stu" 
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 14:13
Subject: Stus-List Owners' Database


We haven't left the dock yet so I have been spending a bit of time on the 
new owners' database.


What fields do you want to see besides these:
1. Last Name
2. First Name
3. Mate
4. Home City, State, Country
5. Boat Name
6. Length
7. Model
8. Year
9. Hull number

I want to keep the database and searches as simple as possible and not be 
confusing to our members.


All suggestions greatly appreciated.

Stu




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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I used to see a lot of writing about the use of kellets as a way to reduce 
scope requirements or otherwise improve the effectiveness of ground tackle. Is 
anyone using one now? Are they an effective option? The idea makes sense to me, 
especially if hand hauling, otherwise just use a heavier chain. I have been 
pretty much resigned to having to purchase and install a bow roller, all chain 
rode, and a windlass for my C&C36 project. I had been led to believe that all 
chain is the only good option for Caribbean cruising. Certainly it is popular, 
but some of the comments in this thread have me wondering if a boat length of 
chain and the rest nylon might still be a viable option. 
A dragging anchor in a crowded anchorage would be problem enough without having 
physical problems retrieving the ground tackle.   

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:02
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff


  I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with 
all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 
feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no 
windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a 
windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor.

  Joe

  Coquina

  C&C 35 MK I

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

   

  Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the 
occasional chuck of dead coral...


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

   

On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Chuck,

Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most 
important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion.   By 
allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort 
that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, 
serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain on an 
anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded 
anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free.

Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little 
catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire 
shock load of the boat all the time.  If I had only rope on my anchor line, I 
would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to 
manage those loads.

On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” 
NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit 
light for the size and weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ 
of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up 
in Maine or Nova Scotia.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

   

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Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit Repair

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

If the look and function are ok, it would most likely be easier to just shorten 
the lifelines. 
I shortened the top lifelines on my 27 in order to lower them down a bit at the 
bow pulpit and cause less wear on the genoa. 
Clamp type fittings that can be slid up and down the tubing made the exact 
length non critical and the adjustment easy. 
I forget what I was charged for the swaging, but it was not a lot of money at 
the time.  

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
  Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 19:39
  Subject: Stus-List Bow Pulpit Repair


  While docking on a windy day I managed to bend my pulpit.  The only thing 
obvious is that the life lines are slack (more than the threaded adjustments 
are capable of adjusting for) but, the bent pulpit is still "somewhat" 
symmetrical. So, at a minimum I need to bend it "forward", bend the uprights 
forward relative to the base. While there is a lot of information from a lot of 
folks about how to repair the bent pulpit, I can't find any dimensional 
information about the pulpit to see where I need to bend it back to.



  Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.



  Dave J

  Saltaire

  C&C 35 MK3

  Bristol, RI



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Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38 NOWActive holding tank vent

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Where do you get them Andy?

Steve Thomas

- Original Message - 
From: "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Andrew Burton" 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 07:46
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38 
NOWActive holding tank vent



I flush an oxygenater tablet into the holding tank every few weeks. That 
has completely eliminated the smell we once had from the holding tank.


Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
! 



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Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Even at 41/2 feet, Cedar Island can be tricky getting in and out of. I bounce 
off the bottom getting in and out of there with my 27. Nice club and friendly 
people. Reciprocal privileges with the Port Stanley Sailing Squadron as well. 
You need a car or a bicycle to get anywhere. :)

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Rick Taillieu 
  Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 11:47
  Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold


  Stu,

   

  I cut it off at 5½’ because I want to keep the boat at Cedar Island Yacht 
Club in Kingsville and they dredge to about 7 or 8 ft through the sand bar at 
the mouth of the channel.

  Leamington is close but you still have to find a place to store the boat for 
the winter, for a deep draft boat that would mean going up to Windsor or around 
Point Pelee to Erieau.

  A place on Lake St Clair is an option but not really high on my list because 
there is nowhere to go for a night or two like there is on Erie.

  I’ve been spoiled, I’ve always kept the boat a 5-10 min drive from home so an 
hour drive to get to the boat isn’t desirable.

   

  Rick

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
  Sent: August-14-16 12:22
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Stu
  Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

   

  Rick

   

  Why only 4 1/2’ draft?  

   

  Leamington and Erieau have deeper harbours.  Belle River, Bruce River, Puce, 
South Port Sailing Club, Windsor Yacht Club and Lakeview Park Marina on Lake 
St. Clair are all deep.  None of them too far from Kingsville.

   

  We usually camp in Kingsville once a year and are familiar with the area.

   

  Stu 





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Re: Stus-List A VERY tough decision; Lake sailing

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Even if it was not "connected", Superior is more of a sea than a lake. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 11:46
  Subject: Re: Stus-List A VERY tough decision; Lake sailing


  I wouldn’t, it connects to other lakes and rivers and some of them lead to 
the ocean and eventually to my house. I could sail there from here and vice 
versa. Lake Norman, not so much….

  Joe

  Coquina

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 11:42 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List A VERY tough decision; Lake sailing

   

  Joe — I defy you to feel confined on Lake Superior…   :^)

   

  — Fred


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

   

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Re: Stus-List Dinghy towing length

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The recommendation I was given during a CYA training trip was to let the 
painter out one wave length in order to get both the dingy and the mother ship 
on the same part of the wave and reduce jerk loads on the painter. That advice 
presupposes that the waves are somewhat regular. I have no idea what the 
"official" thinking is now, but I see the logic behind it, and it worked in the 
Strait of Georgia and Haro Strait which is where we went on that trip. 

A friend of mine tried going south from Chester NS along the coast with his 
dingy hauled up tight, the wind picked up, and he was unable to secure it in 
such a way to stop the bashing. The dingy was soon gone. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bev Parslow 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2016 12:16
  Subject: Stus-List Dinghy towing length


  We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had one 
incident when it turned over. 
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Re: Stus-List Help me pick next boat

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

C&C27 mark I to IV all have 4.5 foot draft, but the mark 1 and II will be 
better for PHRF racing if not light air and only double handed. The mark III 
and IV versions are faster in light air but more tender and require rail 
meat to work best when the wind picks up. All versions are seaworthy, easy 
to handle, have stand up head room if you are not too tall, and big enough 
for weekend getaways.


There is a shoal draft version of the C&C30 that is only 4.5 foot draft, but 
not that many were built. Very similar sailing characteristics to the 27, 
but a bit stiffer.  All of the good stuff above, and a bit more room in the 
cabin for those weekend get aways.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - 
From: "John Pennie via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "John Pennie" 
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 20:09
Subject: Stus-List Help me pick next boat


Ok, so situations change and the boat needs to change with it.  Here’s the 
criteria…


Draft - no more than 4.5’
Assume moderate air (`10-15 knots true) sailed by a crew of 2
Easy to daysail, PHRF competitive
Cost < $25k
Coastal cruising only.  Primarily daysailing - quick, easy evenings sails, 
occasional weekend trips

Good in a chop
No restriction on age
Outboard power is just too ugly, inboard please
Bigger the cockpit the better but remember weekender constraint

So that’s it.  What would you do?  Leading candidate right now is a 
Beneteau first 285.


Thanks in advance

John



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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 Rudder Post lubrication

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

This subject has come up a number of times, and due to the difficulty of 
access, many C&C owners have opted to screw in a hose fitting in place of 
the grease cup and run a line to a grease nipple at a more convenient 
location. As others have mentioned, all is above the water line, so no 
worries there. The thread into the rudder post should be 1/4" NPT, but it is 
easy enough to check against a known fitting once you get the old one out. 
The link is to a site which has what looks to me like the original 
equipment. I have not dealt with them, but you can see what the grease cups 
looked like new, and the dimensions.


http://www.magnetoparts.com/grease_cups.htm

I used an artist's paint brush to apply transmission fluid to the rudder 
shaft at the top of the rudder tube, and again where the top bearing comes 
through the deck, on a boat that had been sitting for a few years. That 
worked good to free it up, and I recommend it for that purpose, but it won't 
last. Winch grease or some other kind of water resistant grease will last a 
lot longer.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
From: "David Kaseler via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "David Kaseler" 
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 16:48
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 Rudder Post lubrication


I have a C&C 33 from 1975 and I have just discovered what appears to be a 
very deteriorated grease cup fitting on the fiberglass tube which supports 
the rudder post. It appears that the top of the grease cup itself has 
rotted away leaving just the sides and a very rusty body. I touched it and 
some metal feel off in my fingers. Have other C&C owners had to deal with 
this issue?  What am I looking at? Can this fitting be replaced? Is it 
screwed into the glass or just glassed in. Can this be worked on with the 
boat afloat or am I going to sink the boat? Any help I can get with this 
project will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from a new member,
Dave.



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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race NOT reaching strut

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

1. US Sailing rule 50 was changed years ago to allow a whisker pole to be set 
either windward or leeward. Local rules may be different, and that also is 
allowed under US Sailing rules. 

2 A whisker pole is not a reaching strut. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII___

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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes. 

And if you use a pole that is within the limits for spinnaker pole length, 
normally the J dimension, then there is no penalty. 
Pole must be attached at the mast, according to the rules.  
I have a light weight spinnaker pole that is only used for poling out the 
Genoa. 
Useful in light air from any point of sail from a broad reach to a run. 
A bit of tension on the lazy sheet will help to control it, and keep it off the 
shrouds. 
 
More than a wee bit up wind, and it is time to put it away. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
  To: CnC CnC discussion list 
  Cc: David Knecht 
  Sent: Friday, August 05, 2016 16:43
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race


  We had a very light wind race on Wednesday and the downwind leg was a reach 
to broad reach   I could not get the genoa to sit well and then I noticed one 
of the other boats had the whisker pole to leeward holding the clew out.  I 
tried it and it seemed to help. Is this something others do?  Dave


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Re: Stus-List mast collar straps

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Tom, 
many C&C 36 and 38 from around that year have had similar problems. I 
have the same model and year of boat as you have, and I am relatively new to it 
as well. 

Part of what your are experiencing is just the "natural" reshaping and relaxing 
of the hull and deck in response to stress over time. When in the water, the 
weight of the keel and the load of the rig tension pushes the mast step and the 
hull surrounding the keel down relative to the rest of the boat. The mast 
straps, (which are occasionally and erroneously referred to as the partners), 
are attached to the deck and pull it down to the extent that the mast step 
moves down relative to the rest of the boat. When the boat is out of the water 
these forces are either relieved (rig tension) or reversed (keel  weight) and 
the boat will take a few days to settle in again once back in the water. These 
effects need to be taken into account before considering any remedial or 
restorative action. Jacking up the mast a little bit to get the bolts in may be 
the best solution if it is not too far. A small amount of load on the deck may 
not be a bad thing. On my boat I think it is a bit too far since the deck 
appears to be depressed around the mast collar by more than 1/2 an inch. 

I can not see anything wrong with the transverse wood and fibreglass supports 
immediately ahead of and behind the mast step box. What I have been told is 
that sometimes the space under the box was filled with more or less random bits 
of wood. fibreglass, and resin to build up a support platform, and that the 
sinking mast syndrome in that case is due to that wood rotting and probably not 
structural in any sense other than the loss of a shim under the mast. I have 
not decided what to do with mine yet, but there is a 1978 C&C 38 at our club 
which had a piece of aluminum plate cut to fit inside the step box, and it has 
worked fine for a couple of decades now. That will be my solution unless I find 
a good reason not to do it. 

I too would welcome further information or experience from others who have 
dealt with the same problem on the same or very similar boats. 

Steve Thomas
1980 C&C36 
Merritt Island, Fl

- Original Message - 
  From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Tom Alessi 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 12:30
  Subject: Stus-List mast collar straps


  Hi,
  This is my first season sailing  after a season on the hard doing repairs. 
When the yard re-stepped the mast the holes on the metal straps that bolt 
through the mast no longer align. The holes on the mast are lower by 3/8". As 
part of the rehab I had removed the mast collar. so I initially thought that I 
used too much caulking in the installation. I removed the collar and scrapped 
away all the caulking but the holes are still off. I wasn't there when the yard 
had originally took out the mast so I'm not sure if there was anything under 
the mast causing it to be slightly higher. I'm relunctant to drill a new set of 
holes.
Any advice would be appreciated.
  Thx

  Tom Alessi
  S/V ANDIAMO
  C&C 36, 1980
  Rockaway Bch, NY
  646-283-1580
  tagraph...@optonline.net

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Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com Windoze 10

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

It is rash I think to believe much of what any company says about perpetual 
or even long term support for software products.
Certain providers of sailboat steering systems come to mind too, but that 
would be more directly sailing related.


I still have a copy of Norton something or other, somewhere around here, 
that was supposed to include perpetual virus pattern updates.
They stopped, no apologies, and that was that, although they did leave a not 
too hard to find back door open that worked for about 3 years longer.


Your mileage may vary,

Steve.
C&C27 MKIII

- Original Message - 
From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 14:06
Subject: Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com Windoze 10


I thought the point of windows 10 was that it was going to be their last OS 
like apple's IOS.  That was what all the adds with the babies were saying. 
They, the babies, would be using windows 10 forever...


Danny


On 7/29/2016 1:35 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

I agree with Gary, but would add the following:

Most of the "features" which are privacy issues can be tracked down and 
turned off (they are all turned on by default), but the biggest problem 
that I have with Windows 10 is not something that can be turned off. 
There is no way to stop the operating system from downloading and 
installing updates, which in effect means that the operating system will 
be whatever Microsoft wants it to be in the future, and there is nothing 
at all that you can do about it if you ever want to use the internet. One 
thing they could do, for example, is decide that they are no longer going 
to offer support, and oh by the way for those of you who don't want to 
buy yet another operating system, Windows 10 will stop working altogether 
on such and such a date.

Yuk.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
(Former IT guy at Ford Motor Co.)




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Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com Windoze 10

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I agree with Gary, but would add the following:

Most of the "features" which are privacy issues can be tracked down and 
turned off (they are all turned on by default), but the biggest problem that 
I have with Windows 10 is not something that can be turned off. There is no 
way to stop the operating system from downloading and installing updates, 
which in effect means that the operating system will be whatever Microsoft 
wants it to be in the future, and there is nothing at all that you can do 
about it if you ever want to use the internet. One thing they could do, for 
example, is decide that they are no longer going to offer support, and oh by 
the way for those of you who don't want to buy yet another operating system, 
Windows 10 will stop working altogether on such and such a date.

Yuk.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
(Former IT guy at Ford Motor Co.)

- Original Message - 
From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Gary Nylander" 
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2016 13:09
Subject: Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com


Wally, I am not a fan of win 10. It appears that Microsoft assumes that 
all

users are gamers and/or want to join the social media world 100%. It also
appears the office software assumes a dolt of a user who has no idea of 
how

to compose a letter or much of anything else - in other words they make
spelling/grammar/punctuation decisions for you whether you are interested 
or
not. If you get into some of their games, they assume you want to play 
games

with the world and store all your results and whatever on the cloud. I
prefer to keep it simple and that does not appear to be their plan.

My smarter friends tell me to stay on 7 or 8.1. But I was coming from
Vista!! And that wasn't possible (note the capital on the A, that was 
placed

there by Outlook all by itself).

Gary (still living in the stone age and not liking having to come out of 
my

cave)




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Re: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

See ya later alligator. 

In a while, crocodile.

There is often an alligator in a pond in a dog walking area in front of the 
marina where I bought and keep a boat on Merritt Island, FL. Good idea to keep 
your toy poodle  away from the edge. At least most of the people there are 
savvy enough about such animals to know better than to feed them. The land is 
pretty much all reclaimed, and some not so reclaimed, swamp around there. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: CnClist 
  Cc: Dennis C. 
  Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 11:49
  Subject: Stus-List Could this happen at your yacht club?


  This was across the street from my yacht club.  I usually park in the parking 
lot shown.

  


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I know a guy who has a length of stainless steel chain stored on deck and 
connected to the shrouds on each side of the boat. He dumps the chain in the 
water when he thinks it appropriate. His boat was hit by lightning in the past, 
but not since he got the chains, so he does not really know how good it works. 

My big fear would be having the lightning blow out through the transducers and 
or thru hulls, which has been know to happen. Probably nothing will save the 
electronics, except maybe a portable radio stored in the oven, but the extra 
conductors might carry away enough energy to prevent a boat-sinking hole in the 
hull. At least that is the theory. There are a lot of sailboats that have been 
hit by lightning which failed to sink. That nothing reliable in terms of 
protection knowledge has come out of all of these close calls only goes to show 
how much luck is involved.  

Last week a soft ball player in Nova Scotia was hit and survived. As she 
reached out to open the door on a storage shed, the shed was struck by 
lightning. The current went up her arm and out her foot, with only minor burns 
to the surface of her skin, but her clothing was "blown to bits". After a 
night's observation in hospital, she reported still feeling weak from having 
all her muscles contracted, but otherwise ok.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ryan Doyle 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 12:16
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki


  Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied.  After reading a few articles 
like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html, it sounds 
like there is little consensus on lightning protection for sailboats.  I'd be 
curious to know what sort of lightning protection, if any, comes standard on 
new boats from the well-regarded manufacturers of heavy displacement cruisers 
like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the manual for a new HR boat and 
there's no mention of lightning or lightning protection at all.


  Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this massive amount of 
energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a cable going from the mast to a keel 
bolt).  Not sure whether this is a well-founded concern or not, but I'm leaning 
towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the shrouds and hanging 
them overboard next time I'm caught out in a storm.  
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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not a 
problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so constantly 
being warned about. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Aaron Rouhi 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 19:38
  Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


  So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a 
surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how 
it looked before:




  http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg






  I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:




  http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg






  Here is after developer is applied:




  http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg






  I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes 
on the surface... 




  Any thoughts?




  Cheers,
  Aaron R.
  Admiral Maggie,
  1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
  Annapolis, MD


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Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The nanny state invading our sailboats. 
"...connections of less than 7 inches..."  Really?

I don't see the need for fuses in the cables between the batteries and the 
selector switch. There is a difference between careful and paranoid. 

The U.S. coast guard inspected a friend of mine's sailboat, and among other 
things, told him that he was required to have nylon lock nuts on his lead 
battery post connectors. 

Good grief. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


- Original Message - 
From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
To: 
Cc: "Tim Goodyear" ; "syerd...@gmail.com" 

Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2016 08:42
Subject: Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR


> Hi Dave,


> 
> Under ABYC standards, connections of less than 7" do not need to be fuses, 
> neither do engine cranking circuits, but if you don't fuse other circuits you 
> are asking for insurance / survey trouble if things go wrong...  Blue Sea 
> have a great on-battery fuse (MRBF) that you could mount directly on the 
> studs of the ACR without a lot of effort (and now required for your house 
> bank).  You are protecting the wires, not the devices with these fuses, 
> preventing short circuit current from causing them to ignite, so if the ACR 
> wires are a different size than the battery cables you need different fuses.
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
> 
> I hope that helps!
> 
> Tim
> 
> Tim Goodyear
> Ex-35-3
> 
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Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Agreed. 
I used to be a machinist, decades ago now, but I still have a milling machine, 
a couple of metal lathes, and various other metal working tools. 
I also worked as a welder, and have torches and a mig welder, but I only worked 
with carbon steels. 
Even better, I have access to people who are more skilled than I am at all of 
the above.
I live in what was once a booming industrial town. 

Anyway I think I have figured out a way to approach it. One way might be to 
join the existing pieces with rivets. I will post pictures of the problem, and 
the eventual fix when a solution is found. 
Maybe Stu will allow them on the Photo Album site.
Stay tuned. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2016 21:40
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Do you have any way to take the parts to a machinist?  I'm fascinated by the 
things a good machinist can do and the problems they can solve.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Jul 5, 2016 4:20 PM, "S Thomas via CnC-List"  wrote:

I just got off the phone with the Edson factory, and while they did take a 
look for me, it was to no avail. 
According to the person I talked to, they have been cleaning house every 
couple of years, and getting rid of the replacement parts that are not selling. 
Taking up too much valuable space to keep all of it. So that was that. 

Anyway, I have found out a few things that may be of some help to others. 

The cable in this application is of particularly large diameter because the 
clutch lever on the Yanmar "YSE, YSB, and YSM" series of one cylinder engines 
requires a lot of force to actuate. He said that Edson does not stock anything 
at all for cables that size any more. The ends have a 5/16 - 24 thread. From 
grabbing the lever by hand, free of the cable, it is about all I can do to work 
it. Got to be around 40 pounds. It is not difficult from friction, it is a 
spring force that must be overcome to toggle it. My cable is getting stiff too, 
but this must be why it was so big to start with. 

I have found exact replacements for the cable from a few sources. 
Some part numbers are as follows: 

Morse D37912-4 120 IN, this is the one in the boat, series D37912, 4 inches 
of travel, 120 inches overall length. Baum hydraulics can make up a cable with 
the same core and characteristics. They are an industrial supplier, and the 
industrial side of the Morse/Teleflex cable business was separated from 
Teleflex marine products in the course of a few recent ownership changes 
involving private equity firms. Teleflex now operates as "SeaStar Solutions", 
still in British Colombia, at least for now. 

The same size cable, but with a lower friction core construction, is the 
Teleflex Extreme (TFXtreme) series 6400CC or CCX643xx which is the part number 
pattern, where "xx" is the length in feet. Depends on the supplier which number 
they are using. You have to make sure to be careful with the part numbers (also 
CC695xx is the same from yet another supplier), as there are similar ones with 
bulkhead instead of clamp fittings on one end. The Teleflex cable sounds 
preferable, at a cost of $247 Canadian here in Ontario, or US$ 147 plus 
shipping etc. from GO2 Marine in the Eastern U.S. This is for a 10 foot cable 
of the same diameter and fitting requirements as what is in the boat now. 

http://www.go2marine.com/product/242306F/6400cc-tfxtreme-control-cables.html


http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/morse_clamp_and_clamp_push_pull_cables.pdf

It might just be possible to install a clutch lever in the side of the 
cockpit, and run a solid rod or tubular linkage to the clutch lever. The cost 
would be about the same if the geometry works. Will probably try to patch the 
existing part at least temporarily, but it is pretty clear that it won't last 
without at least replacing the cable. Like everything else, there are trade 
offs. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 


  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 20:34
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Steve,
  When I worked at Edson several years ago there was a few cable clamps 
left in inventory.  You will need to call Edson direct on Tuesday to get one 
since this part has been discontinued for decades.  Replace your cable at the 
same time because the reason the cable clamp broke was trying to hold a stiff 
rusty cable in place.  If you don't replace the cable, you'll simply break the 
new clamp soon after installation.  Edson also has a service bulletin on this 
control assembly (model 747 IIRC)the

Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I just got off the phone with the Edson factory, and while they did take a look 
for me, it was to no avail. 
According to the person I talked to, they have been cleaning house every couple 
of years, and getting rid of the replacement parts that are not selling. 
Taking up too much valuable space to keep all of it. So that was that. 

Anyway, I have found out a few things that may be of some help to others. 

The cable in this application is of particularly large diameter because the 
clutch lever on the Yanmar "YSE, YSB, and YSM" series of one cylinder engines 
requires a lot of force to actuate. He said that Edson does not stock anything 
at all for cables that size any more. The ends have a 5/16 - 24 thread. From 
grabbing the lever by hand, free of the cable, it is about all I can do to work 
it. Got to be around 40 pounds. It is not difficult from friction, it is a 
spring force that must be overcome to toggle it. My cable is getting stiff too, 
but this must be why it was so big to start with. 

I have found exact replacements for the cable from a few sources. 
Some part numbers are as follows: 

Morse D37912-4 120 IN, this is the one in the boat, series D37912, 4 inches of 
travel, 120 inches overall length. Baum hydraulics can make up a cable with the 
same core and characteristics. They are an industrial supplier, and the 
industrial side of the Morse/Teleflex cable business was separated from 
Teleflex marine products in the course of a few recent ownership changes 
involving private equity firms. Teleflex now operates as "SeaStar Solutions", 
still in British Colombia, at least for now. 

The same size cable, but with a lower friction core construction, is the 
Teleflex Extreme (TFXtreme) series 6400CC or CCX643xx which is the part number 
pattern, where "xx" is the length in feet. Depends on the supplier which number 
they are using. You have to make sure to be careful with the part numbers (also 
CC695xx is the same from yet another supplier), as there are similar ones with 
bulkhead instead of clamp fittings on one end. The Teleflex cable sounds 
preferable, at a cost of $247 Canadian here in Ontario, or US$ 147 plus 
shipping etc. from GO2 Marine in the Eastern U.S. This is for a 10 foot cable 
of the same diameter and fitting requirements as what is in the boat now. 

http://www.go2marine.com/product/242306F/6400cc-tfxtreme-control-cables.html

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/morse_clamp_and_clamp_push_pull_cables.pdf

It might just be possible to install a clutch lever in the side of the cockpit, 
and run a solid rod or tubular linkage to the clutch lever. The cost would be 
about the same if the geometry works. Will probably try to patch the existing 
part at least temporarily, but it is pretty clear that it won't last without at 
least replacing the cable. Like everything else, there are trade offs. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 


  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 20:34
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Steve,
  When I worked at Edson several years ago there was a few cable clamps left in 
inventory.  You will need to call Edson direct on Tuesday to get one since this 
part has been discontinued for decades.  Replace your cable at the same time 
because the reason the cable clamp broke was trying to hold a stiff rusty cable 
in place.  If you don't replace the cable, you'll simply break the new clamp 
soon after installation.  Edson also has a service bulletin on this control 
assembly (model 747 IIRC)they can send to you electronically.
  Chuck Gilchrest
  S/V Half Magic
  1983 LF 35
  Padanaram, MA
  Sent from my iPhone

  On Jul 2, 2016, at 8:17 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


That is it, although the part in question is not visible in those photos. 
I have been able to draw the cable and associated parts out through the 
top, but I am still trying to figure out what to do next. 
It is not hard to imagine any number of ways to make a clamp, but to make 
one which will be strong enough to do the job and also fit back in the tube 
presents a real challenge. 
I see no obvious way to improve on the original part, and the original 
being made of stamped stainless steel, it will not be easy to duplicate or 
repair. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Michael Brown 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 19:36
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Does your setup look like this?

  http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005

  If so the part I think you are referring to I have not been able to 
locate.
  I have considered making a spare, a project that hasn't

Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck, I will give them a call. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 20:34
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Steve,
  When I worked at Edson several years ago there was a few cable clamps left in 
inventory.  You will need to call Edson direct on Tuesday to get one since this 
part has been discontinued for decades.  Replace your cable at the same time 
because the reason the cable clamp broke was trying to hold a stiff rusty cable 
in place.  If you don't replace the cable, you'll simply break the new clamp 
soon after installation.  Edson also has a service bulletin on this control 
assembly (model 747 IIRC)they can send to you electronically.
  Chuck Gilchrest
  S/V Half Magic
  1983 LF 35
  Padanaram, MA
  Sent from my iPhone

  On Jul 2, 2016, at 8:17 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


That is it, although the part in question is not visible in those photos. 
I have been able to draw the cable and associated parts out through the 
top, but I am still trying to figure out what to do next. 
It is not hard to imagine any number of ways to make a clamp, but to make 
one which will be strong enough to do the job and also fit back in the tube 
presents a real challenge. 
I see no obvious way to improve on the original part, and the original 
being made of stamped stainless steel, it will not be easy to duplicate or 
repair. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Michael Brown 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 19:36
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Does your setup look like this?

  http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005

  If so the part I think you are referring to I have not been able to 
locate.
  I have considered making a spare, a project that hasn't got to the top
  of the todo list yet.

  Michael Brown
  Windburn
  C&C 30-1


Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 10:32:14 -0400 
From: "S Thomas"  
To:  
Subject: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes 
Message-ID: <8C564B7AC9E049FCB7FCE655B472320D@mordor> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 

My 1978 C&C27 has the type of shifter and throttle cable assembly that 
is external to the Edson pedistal, and mounted on a pair of 1 inch stainless 
tubes.   
Yesterday the cable clamp on the shifter cable broke (under a lift 
bridge, enroute to a race start...) and I have not been able to find any 
reference this particlar part anywhere. 
For the cable itself there are sources, but that does not help with 
this particular problem. 
The clamp has already been welded once, but to try that again would 
require it to be welded in situ, which is tricky at best, given the fact that 
it is thin stainless steel and immediately adjascent to the plastic parts of 
the cable. I have a lot of respect for the welding skill of whoever did the 
original repair. 
The part consists of stamped sheet metal, formed so that it fits into 
the annular detent on the shift cable and wraps around the cable. The ends of 
the sheet metal strap have right angle tabs that interleave to form an overall 
"D" shape, with a round head machine screw threaded through the flat surface 
into a flat stainless steel bar and into the annular detent on the cable. The 
bar extends up about 8 inches and is similarly fastened by a screw through the 
casting at the top. The whole thing:  cable, strap, and clamp, is stuffed down 
inside the 1 inch stainless tubing when assembled. 

If anyone else has been down this road, I sure would like to hear how 
you handled it. 
A source for the part would be great. 
I have had no luck with online searches so far. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

P.S. - The rest of my sailing club is yucking it up across the lake, 
and having a great time in Ashtabula, OH. 

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Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

That is it, although the part in question is not visible in those photos. 
I have been able to draw the cable and associated parts out through the top, 
but I am still trying to figure out what to do next. 
It is not hard to imagine any number of ways to make a clamp, but to make one 
which will be strong enough to do the job and also fit back in the tube 
presents a real challenge. 
I see no obvious way to improve on the original part, and the original being 
made of stamped stainless steel, it will not be easy to duplicate or repair. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Michael Brown 
  Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 19:36
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes


  Does your setup look like this?

  http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005

  If so the part I think you are referring to I have not been able to locate.
  I have considered making a spare, a project that hasn't got to the top
  of the todo list yet.

  Michael Brown
  Windburn
  C&C 30-1


Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 10:32:14 -0400 
From: "S Thomas"  
To:  
Subject: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes 
Message-ID: <8C564B7AC9E049FCB7FCE655B472320D@mordor> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 

My 1978 C&C27 has the type of shifter and throttle cable assembly that is 
external to the Edson pedistal, and mounted on a pair of 1 inch stainless 
tubes.   
Yesterday the cable clamp on the shifter cable broke (under a lift bridge, 
enroute to a race start...) and I have not been able to find any reference this 
particlar part anywhere. 
For the cable itself there are sources, but that does not help with this 
particular problem. 
The clamp has already been welded once, but to try that again would require 
it to be welded in situ, which is tricky at best, given the fact that it is 
thin stainless steel and immediately adjascent to the plastic parts of the 
cable. I have a lot of respect for the welding skill of whoever did the 
original repair. 
The part consists of stamped sheet metal, formed so that it fits into the 
annular detent on the shift cable and wraps around the cable. The ends of the 
sheet metal strap have right angle tabs that interleave to form an overall "D" 
shape, with a round head machine screw threaded through the flat surface into a 
flat stainless steel bar and into the annular detent on the cable. The bar 
extends up about 8 inches and is similarly fastened by a screw through the 
casting at the top. The whole thing:  cable, strap, and clamp, is stuffed down 
inside the 1 inch stainless tubing when assembled. 

If anyone else has been down this road, I sure would like to hear how you 
handled it. 
A source for the part would be great. 
I have had no luck with online searches so far. 

Steve Thomas 
C&C27 MKIII 
Port Stanley, ON 

P.S. - The rest of my sailing club is yucking it up across the lake, and 
having a great time in Ashtabula, OH. 



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Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

My 1978 C&C27 has the type of shifter and throttle cable assembly that is 
external to the Edson pedistal, and mounted on a pair of 1 inch stainless 
tubes.  
Yesterday the cable clamp on the shifter cable broke (under a lift bridge, 
enroute to a race start...) and I have not been able to find any reference this 
particlar part anywhere. 
For the cable itself there are sources, but that does not help with this 
particular problem. 
The clamp has already been welded once, but to try that again would require it 
to be welded in situ, which is tricky at best, given the fact that it is thin 
stainless steel and immediately adjascent to the plastic parts of the cable. I 
have a lot of respect for the welding skill of whoever did the original repair. 
The part consists of stamped sheet metal, formed so that it fits into the 
annular detent on the shift cable and wraps around the cable. The ends of the 
sheet metal strap have right angle tabs that interleave to form an overall "D" 
shape, with a round head machine screw threaded through the flat surface into a 
flat stainless steel bar and into the annular detent on the cable. The bar 
extends up about 8 inches and is similarly fastened by a screw through the 
casting at the top. The whole thing:  cable, strap, and clamp, is stuffed down 
inside the 1 inch stainless tubing when assembled. 

If anyone else has been down this road, I sure would like to hear how you 
handled it. 
A source for the part would be great. 
I have had no luck with online searches so far. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

P.S. - The rest of my sailing club is yucking it up across the lake, and having 
a great time in Ashtabula, OH. ___

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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

It took me about a week to get the coupling and the propeller shaft separated 
on my C&C36 this year. 
Seems they either fall off, or they will not come apart at all. 
I spent one entire day where I thought that I had moved it by about 3/8 of an 
inch, only to find that I had been crushing the steel pipe nipple I was using 
as a spacer to force out the shaft. 
I won't bore you with the rest of it, but it was a challenge to find a 
selection of the right diameter sockets with the variation in lengths needed to 
effect the separation, which is why I tried using a pipe nipple. 
Don't waste you time. They are not strong enough. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: TOM VINCENT via CnC-List 
  To: C&C Forum 
  Cc: TOM VINCENT 
  Sent: Friday, July 01, 2016 13:15
  Subject: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes


  It seems this is the year for the shaft to remove itself from the coupler. I 
race on Wednesday nights on the Bohemia River and 4 weeks ago I had decided to 
go out early and warm up a little. I had to return to the fuel dock to pick up 
one crew member. I was adjacent of the pier and he hopped aboard, I slid the 
gear shift lever down, this puts the trans in forward, and nothing. We were 
slowly moving forward to the rock pile jetty at the end of the fuel dock and I 
start shouting for the crew to raise the main and get our butts away from the 
rocks. The wind was blowing abeam and it was impossible to raise the main, one 
crew member quickly unfurls about 10' of the genoa and we develop enough 
forward motion to provide me steerage. We barely missed ending up on the rocks. 
I had the marina haul the boat and they replaced the coupler and many boat 
dollars later, I am back sailing.


  Tom Vincent
  Frolic II, C&C 36'cb
  Chesapeake City, MD


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Of course the wire for the compass light almost always comes up through the 
pedestal. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 07:42
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161


  Running the electrical wires through the pedestal has several down sides:

  1.   Fouling the steering chain and cable.  The chain and steering wires 
cross inside the pedestal, the geometry of which is determined by the height of 
the pedestal, and the positioning of the sheaves on the below deck idler plate. 
 Unless you would insert a protective conduit inside the pedestal, your 
instrument wiring could easily get hung up on the chain to wire connector and 
either prevent the boat from turning (bad)  or wear through the insulation on 
the instrument wires (very bad if it is a power cable).

  2.  To run the wires inside the pedestal, at some place you need to 
extract the wires and run them externally up to your instruments.  That creates 
issues.  Drilling a large hole through the side of the pedestal to pass through 
a wire connection leaves a big hole in the pedestal.  Water can get in, the 
wire can (and will) chafe on the opening, and once the wires have chafed 
through their own insulation, there will be current running through the 
pedestal.  Because pedestals are powder coated, not spray painted, there’s no 
faster way to strip paint off a pedestal than to have it energized by a GPS or 
sailing instruments.

  3.  Running wires externally on a pedestal leaves the wires venerable to 
being pulled, grabbed, or otherwise subjected to disconnection or breakage when 
someone accidentally grabs at the pedestal, wheel, or guard.  This can occur 
just walking around the wheel or losing one’s balance in a seaway.   Running 
wires internally means there’s nothing to damage or get corroded.

   

  Hopefully at some point, wireless connectivity will replace the hassle of 
running wires to our helm mounted instruments.

  Chuck Gilchrest

  S/V Half Magic

  1983 LF 35

  Padanaram, MA

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:40 PM
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: paul.hood 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

   

  I find it interesting that nobody mentioned going through the pedestal.   To 
be honest I was very hesitant about going that direction for various reasons. I 
was using the small end for feeding on all given cables. Depending on which 
cable, they are still 3/4 and 7/8 at the smallest ends. Trandducer being the 
7/8.   I guess I'll need to upside the guard and wire through the guard.  

   

  Thanks,

  Paul Hood

  416.799.5549 c

   

  From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
  To: 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
  Message-ID: 
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Paul,

  As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? if 
I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end into 
the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).

  With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 

  Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
tungsten cutter (e.g. 
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
would be your friends (and a good investment).

  And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared 
that the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.

  I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.

  good luck

  Marek
  1994 C270 ?Legato?
  Ottawa, ON

  From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: paul.hood 
  Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

  Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
  1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through 
guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
  2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  
  3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal



  Paul Hood
  81 C&C34
  --

Re: Stus-List Rudder shaft collar for 35-3

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Both are rated for salt water use, and are reasonably hard. 
The aluminum bronze (954) should wear better, but you won't wear it out 
whichever of those alloys you choose.  
I would go with the one that is easiest to obtain. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: tom via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: tom 
  Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2016 13:44
  Subject: Stus-List Rudder shaft collar for 35-3


  Hello all,


  Having not found a replacement, we are fabricating a new rudder shaft collar 
at a local machine shop for our C&C 35-3.
  What bronze alloy material to use comes to question  It has been narrowed to 
2 different alloys, either #954 or #655.
  Does anyone know what the original material was, or can comment on these 
bronze alloys for use as a rudder shaft collar?


  Thanks,
  Tom Oryniak
  New Jersey




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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill, purchase or exchange in Canada OR the US

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Mike, 
 Have you searched for fleet operators that have their own CNC fill 
equipment? One of them might help you out, and there might be one closer than 
Quebec. There was quite a push on CNC vehicles 15 to 20 years ago, and quite a 
few OEM manufacturers at the time including Ford, where I worked at the time. 
There are still NG suppliers who sell conversions and CNG equipment for fleet 
use. The local gas company might tell you if there are any such operations in 
your area. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
  Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 09:39
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill, purchase or exchange in Canada OR the 
US


  Thanks Joe, Richard

   

  The nearest car filling station  to Halifax is in Montreal.  At least I do 
not have to transport across an international border.  Montreal is a nice place 
to visit as well except that hockey ended there in February this year (another 
topic).  I have heard that our local gas company is exploring the idea of 
getting a filling station locally though …

   

  I believe that these are tanks that should be able to be ordered thru local 
sources.  It may be that we need to change the fittings on boat end but we 
should be able to purchase a tank (even if special order) and then rather than 
asking for CNG we could specify the actual gas name (methane) and have filled 
someplace local.  The two issues I have been finding are businesses that handle 
methane gas (or CNG) and the CGA 350 adaptor with the left hand thread.  I am 
guessing that converting boat to accept a more standard fitting and purchasing 
a tank with that fitting may lead to more success.

   

  The one option I do not consider realistic is limiting the use of our cooking 
appliances.  Why limit the enjoyment of our boats?

   

  Mike

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 10:26 AM
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill, purchase or exchange in Canada OR the 
US

   

  If you have a CNG filling station for cars, you can buy the pieces to make a 
filling adapter and spend about $2 per fill after that!

  Joe

  Coquina

  C&C 35 MK I with CNG stove

   
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Re: Stus-List continuous line furlers

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I am still using a Hood model 810 "Line Drive" continuous loop furler on my 
27 and I find that it works well on that size of boat.
The only tricky thing is that you have to be careful to maintain tension on 
both lines when reefing in order to prevent the line from slipping in the 
sheave.
By the same token, there are effectively two lines that need to be secured 
under tension to maintain a partially furled foresail.

It is not difficult once you know what to do, just a different technique.
I do head up to take the load off the sail when furling if there is any 
significant wind.
I have thought that it would be more convenient if I installed a couple of 
cam cleats, but it has been 15 years now and I am still using a standard 
aluminum cleat on the cabin top.


There is no spool to jam from an uneven winding, the mechanical advantage 
remains the same as the sail is furled, and the furling line is unlikely to 
break. It can be all I want to handle when shortening the 155 in 25+ knots, 
but there is no need for a winch. More modern products appear to have larger 
sheaves, which would confer more mechanical advantage. I don't think that 
the particular model that I have would be good on a boat much over 30 feet. 
Like with spool furling systems, it is a good idea to maintain at least a 
slight tension whilst unfurling the sail since it is capable of pulling in a 
loop or a kink which jams it up.


I have no experience with using a wind-up furler with a spinnaker, but I do 
have an ATN sock and "Tacker", and I can tell you that it takes a long time 
to change from an unfurled genoa to a deployed spinnaker using that system. 
I find that I have to furl the genoa first or else it is liable to suck in a 
loose halyard or control line. The sock keeps everything under control but 
probably not suitable for rabid racers.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Sprouse via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Bill Sprouse" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 14:15
Subject: Stus-List continuous line furlers


Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin? 
Thoughts pro or con?


thanks
bill
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Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Question #1. 
Failure mechanism:

When an alternator is running and delivering current, the current through 
the stator windings creates a magnetic field proportional to the amount of 
current flowing. The current varies with the resistance of the load, and if 
there was no voltage regulator control of the rotor current (and therefore 
rotor magnetism), the current and stator voltage would vary also with the speed 
of the rotor. In other words, the voltage induced in a wire by a changing 
magnetic field depends on the strength of the field and on the rate of the 
change. When the stator current in an alternator is suddenly interrupted, the 
magnetic field that the current created collapses suddenly too. The lines of 
force in the collapsing magnetic field move through the stator windings and 
induce a voltage opposite the that which had produced the current in the first 
place. The collapsing field dumps a fixed lump of energy into the stator 
windings that wants to go through the reverse biased rectifier diodes. Since 
the diodes present a high resistance in that direction, the voltage builds to 
above the diodes peak inverse voltage rating, at which point the diode starts 
conducting heavily, and the energy is dissipated through and in the diodes 
themselves. If there is enough energy stored in the stator windings, the diode 
is destroyed. Note that this is more likely to happen the larger the current 
flowing (i.e. the greater the load on the alternator) when the switch was 
opened. 
   The above description fits what happens when a switch in the output circuit 
of an alternator is opened.  

   The failure you describe is less common I think, because I have never heard 
of it, but it would have to depend on a similar mechanism due to the fast 
collapse of the current through the rotor. I have gotten away with doing that, 
shutting off the "ignition", on several occasions, but I would never do it 
deliberately. My first thought is that the risk relative to size of the 
alternator load might be reversed. If there were sufficient load on the 
alternator then the induced emf (electro motive force) might dissipate through 
the load before the voltage built up enough to kill the rectifier diodes. Seems 
to me that there ought to be a greater risk to the voltage regulator in 
shutting off the "ignition" than to the output rectifier diodes.  


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 07:36
  Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure


  Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off 
while the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) 
and it fried the diodes in the alternator.


  Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?


  Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think 
it  was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?


  Thanks,
  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C&C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA  

  ~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

"Either of these conditions can be corrected by changing the prop."

It is generally not a good idea to run a transmission in reverse all of the 
time, since with most designs this involves more gears running, and wear that 
they aren't designed for, but there may be exceptions. If I knew for sure that 
it was ok with my transmission it sure would open more possibilities in the 
used prop market for my boat. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016 08:48
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed


  Here's a thought.  What type of throttle does it have?  Is there a chance 
that it is integrated throttle and shift?  Straight up and down is neutral.  
Pushing forward would both shift into forward and progressively throttle up.  
Pulling aft would shift into reverse and progressively throttle up.  The 
throttle COULD be "reversed" in that pushing forward engages reverse and 
pulling back engages the forward gear.  This can happen 2 different ways.  
Either the boat has been repowered with an engine or gearbox that spins the 
shaft opposite.  OR, a feathering prop was installed and set up backwards.  
Either of these conditions can be corrected by changing the prop.

  Maybe

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Jun 16, 2016 1:50 AM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I'm going over my survey which I was not present for.  I'm 2000 miles  from 
my boat at this time... But the survey person said my throttle is reversed.  
How would I fix this?  Is it likely backwards on the helm side or on the engine 
side at the carburetor /throttle valve?  Why would the PO have it reversed to 
begin with? 
I'd like to know in advance of me arriving so I know what kind of task I 
have ahead of time and tools/parts I might need.   I need to sail away within a 
day of arriving to pick it up and would have one day to repair /reverse it to 
correct direction ASAP. 


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Re: Stus-List Sales tax in Canada

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Like Mike said.
If you purchase a boat out of Canada, there is no tax payable unless you 
bring it to Canada, but even a single visit makes the tax payable.
It is my understanding that the country of registration makes no difference 
to the CRS for pleasure vessels, only the actual ownership.

I suspect that corporations have legal ways around this, but not us.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

P.S. I helped a friend bring a boat that he was importing across from 
Michigan a few years ago, and Pelee Island had the nearest port. Customs 
insisted that we dock at the West Dock, where their office is. It was a very 
calm afternoon, so we complied, but by the time we were done the boat was 
being ferociously slammed against the wall. Something about the hydrology 
there amplifies the wave action. If I had to do it again, I would just go to 
Scudder and call customs from there. The West Dock on Pelee Island is no 
place for small vessels.



- Original Message - 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016 09:31
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sales tax in Canada


A sale between private owners incurs tax in Nova Scotia and likely in the 
rest of Canada.  The only difference between the private sale and using a 
broker is that the broker usually does this as part of the business 
procedures vs the private sale where the buyer is supposed to remit it 
(usually upon registration of the vessel).  I know a large number of people 
who never paid tax on their boats.  Rumor has it that some marinas are 
being visited by officials looking for boats that have not paid the sales 
tax ...


For me personally the last two boats were purchased in the US which 
required tax to be paid when the boat crossed the border (by land) or the 
tax invoice triggered by customs inspection (by sea)


Mike
Persistence
Halifax

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
Connon via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016 9:59 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bill Connon
Subject: Stus-List Sales tax in Canada

We've been having a discussion at the marina over sales tax payable in 
Canada. One thought is that a sale between two private owners incurs no 
tax whereas a sale by a broker brings on PST and GST. Does anybody out 
there have definite knowledge, especially where Quebec is involved? ( we 
still operate under Napoleonic Civil law)


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Congratulations!

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Joel Aronson 
  Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 17:17
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race


  We finished last night. Five days 7 hours. Corrected down to third because 
one boat rated 201 Jake was an iron man on the helm!


  Joel 

  On Tuesday, June 14, 2016, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Joel and Jake on Joel’s new boat Atlantis are doing pretty well in the 
Annapolis to Bermuda Race; I’ve been watching the tracking on Yellow Brick’s 
site:


http://yb.tl/abor2016


They’re currently in second place (uncorrected) in the Cruising 2 fleet, 
and are about 190 miles from the finish; if their speed keeps up, they’ll be 
there tomorrow some time.


— Fred




Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI




  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I wonder if that little bit of wind was just enough to tilt the boat forward so 
that the prop was sucking air momentarily as the bow tipped down over the top. 
Could that cause the prop to feather? Power boat racers have a person assigned 
to the throttle in swells. I don't have a feathering prop, just speculating out 
loud. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Geared Gori prop
  - Original Message - 
  From: Andrew Means via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Andrew Means 
  Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 12:25
  Subject: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells


  Hey all - 


  My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed 
vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been performing 
brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the less-windy 
sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large ocean swells on 
our way up to Tofino.


  Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the boat 
crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change RPM at 
all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again, also over a 
swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let it idle - when 
we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened maybe 6 times over the 
course of the passage, always starting as we were at the top of a swell.


  We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day before 
with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind there 
was was behind us.


  The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is 
feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix that - 
or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping to avoid 
that mid-trip…)


  Any ideas?


  -- 
  Andrew Means
  S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
  Seattle, WA


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Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

"Battery operated (3 C-cell) with simple twist-on operation"

I don't see where it says that the batteries can't be replaced. 

Too bad they don't have Canadian coast guard approval. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
 
- Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 00:23
  Subject: Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?


  Kevin is right.  I get a UPV inspection from the USCG evey year and the 
inspector suggested I get one.  I don't like the fact that the batteries can't 
be replaced.

  Josh Muckley 
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD


  On Jun 14, 2016 11:12 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Marinebeam says this light will replace pyrotechnic flares for a night 
signaling device.  Are they correct?  What would you use for a day signal?





Anybody have one of them?

How would one convince a Coastie they are legal?

What day 



Dennis


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Re: Stus-List Smelly Water Tank

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Randy,
I concur with the other posters on the prudent use of bleach, but I 
would add that if your tank is fibreglass then you should at least take a look 
inside. There should be a screw-in plastic clean out on the top of the tank. 
The reason I say this is that when I bought my C&C27, the tank had been unused 
for some time, and it had grown a plaque of bacteria or mildew over the entire 
inside surface. Took me quite a while to scrub it all out. A little bleach once 
in a while kept it away once gone. There is something in gelcoat (wax maybe?) 
that mildew or bacteria seem to find tasty. When I bought my current project, 
every gelcoat surface inside the boat was covered with mildew, but not the 
other surfaces or even the cushions for that matter. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: RANDY via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: RANDY 
  Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 14:17
  Subject: Stus-List Smelly Water Tank


  Listers-


  My 30-1 has developed a bad odor in the water tank under the starboard settee 
(the tank that supplies the galley sink).


  Any tips on how to get rid of it?  I'm tempted to pour some bleach in the 
tank but wanted to check with you all first to see if there is any risk of 
damaging the material from which the tank is made (fiberglass, I think - the 
tank seems to be a molded part of the settee).


  Note I don't drink that water or even use it for cooking.  I mainly use it 
for cleaning.


  Thanks in advance.


  Cheers,
  Randy Stafford
  S/V Grenadine
  C&C 30-1 #7
  Ken Caryl, CO


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Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Ok, I checked and you are correct. 
The LED bulbs being sold for home use are now more efficient than similar CFLs, 
but this is a fairly recent development, 2013-2014.

http://www.eia.gov/todayinenergy/detail.cfm?id=18671

It is still the wild wild west in the 12 volt domain as far as I can see, there 
being no CSA or UL standards to meet, or anyone checking product claims at all. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
  Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 11:04
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting


  Usually, LEDs are better in light efficiency (luminous efficacy) - CFLs run 
around 50-60 lm/W, and LEDs at 80-120 lm/W. Obviously, they are directed light. 
Some fixtures use diffusers to distribute the light more evenly.
  Additionally, depending on the application of course, the cooler light of the 
LEDs can work better for lighting the area (with fewer lumens per unit of area).
  Unfortunately, some of the really cheap LED bulbs don’t have the voltage 
regulation circuitry built in and they produce all kinds of unexpected (and 
undesirable) results. This is a real problem on a boat, where we regularly have 
voltage variations from around 11 V to 14+ V, depending on the source (battery 
vs. the alternator).
  Obviously, switching from the fluorescent to LED won’t buy you that much (at 
best halving of the power usage). Not to mention that the drop-in replacement 
“bulbs” or “tubes” are much more difficult to find for the fluorescent 
fixtures. The real benefit is in switching form incandescent to LEDs. I did 
that and I replaced 20 W incandescent with 1.5 W LED light sources. Suddenly I 
don’t care anymore if the light is on or not (I admit to leaving a cabin light 
on for a couple of days (forgot to turn the main switch off) without any ill 
effect on the battery (the solar panel managed to keep up with the light); not 
something you could do with an incandescent bulb). I left the last remaining 
fluorescent, as is; the replacement would be too complicated.
  One other thing that might count for you if you want to switch to LED – most 
of them them come in white/red combination, quite useful when sailing at night.
  Marek
  C270 Legato
  Ottawa, ON
  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
  Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 10:22
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

 The original "Thin-Lite" fixtures are still available, but they are not 
cheap. RVs use them, and there are several sellers on Ebay and Amazon. 
 That said, most of the listers here have recommended LEDs of some sort 
when this question was raised before. 
 I am faced with the same decision and still undecided, but I bought a 
couple of cheap LED strips to play with. LEDs should last longer, but the 
better ones have an electronic constant current source, and long term 
reliability is unknown. Resistive ballasting is more reliable but the resistors 
have to be sized to the maximum charging voltage and the LEDs will be dimmer 
when on the battery. Also, some constant current electronic LED ballast devices 
generate RFI.
  I bought some cheap led lights from China, and they are now quite dim 
compared to when new. They are a square array wired to a bulb bayonet but with 
no visible current limiting device.  Even at the rated current, LEDs are not as 
efficient as fluorescent lighting in lumens per watt. 
  All in all, my perception is that LEDs are better for a directed light 
source, and fluorescents are better for area lighting. 

  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 08:53
Subject: Stus-List Salon Lighting

Most of the older C&C’s had double rectangular  fluorescent lights in the 
main cabin, which are nowadays woefully inadequate. I eventually gave up 
finding a replacement that would cover all the holes and I purchased 4 Aqua 
Signal  lights, 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312540|2312542&id=1607497

 

But unfortunately there is no space behind the light for wire termination.

 

What have others used for replacement  overhead lighting in the cabin?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 




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Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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what

Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

   The original "Thin-Lite" fixtures are still available, but they are not 
cheap. RVs use them, and there are several sellers on Ebay and Amazon. 
   That said, most of the listers here have recommended LEDs of some sort when 
this question was raised before. 
   I am faced with the same decision and still undecided, but I bought a couple 
of cheap LED strips to play with. LEDs should last longer, but the better ones 
have an electronic constant current source, and long term reliability is 
unknown. Resistive ballasting is more reliable but the resistors have to be 
sized to the maximum charging voltage and the LEDs will be dimmer when on the 
battery. Also, some constant current electronic LED ballast devices generate 
RFI.
I bought some cheap led lights from China, and they are now quite dim 
compared to when new. They are a square array wired to a bulb bayonet but with 
no visible current limiting device.  Even at the rated current, LEDs are not as 
efficient as fluorescent lighting in lumens per watt. 
All in all, my perception is that LEDs are better for a directed light 
source, and fluorescents are better for area lighting. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bill Coleman 
  Sent: Friday, June 10, 2016 08:53
  Subject: Stus-List Salon Lighting


  Most of the older C&C's had double rectangular  fluorescent lights in the 
main cabin, which are nowadays woefully inadequate. I eventually gave up 
finding a replacement that would cover all the holes and I purchased 4 Aqua 
Signal  lights, 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312540|2312542&id=1607497

   

  But unfortunately there is no space behind the light for wire termination.

   

  What have others used for replacement  overhead lighting in the cabin?

   

  Bill Coleman

  C&C 39 Erie, PA

   



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Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I don't see how leaving the transmission in gear can hurt, provided that the 
shaft does not turn, unless the clutches are somehow prone to getting stuck. 
Perhaps that is something that could happen on a long passage? 
It always seemed to me that free wheeling was just unnecessary wear and tear, 
never mind the drag. I intend to continue putting it in reverse when sailing. 

I met an engineer in Bahamas a couple of years ago who had built an alternator 
around his prop shaft, and free wheeled it to charge the batteries when 
sailing. He had the stator tied with small diameter line that was intended to 
break if the rotor was to somehow get jammed with the stator. Reminded me of 
those centrifugal emergency bilge pumps that can be installed around propeller 
shafts. No bearings required, just very careful alignment. They act as a 
not-very-good bilge blower unless the boat is flooding. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2016 11:52
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while


  Dave,
   Using your argument, then reverse with a folding prop should not be a 
problem.
  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 10:55 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi All,


Have seen question pop up a few times.   Does anyone know the "why" 
involved in Yanmar's recommendation of neutral?  
My thoughts, having had to disassemble and deglaze the cones on my Kanzaki 
'box:
- If in neutral and the shaft is rotating you wear bearings, stuffing box, 
shaft, but you do not transmit any load to the gearbox, clutch, crank. mounts 
etc.   
-If the shaft is not rotating you transmit some load via the drivetrain, 
esp with a fixed prop..
- IF the gear is engaged AND the shaft is rotating, (whether forward or 
reverse) you risk polishing/glazing the mating clutch surfaces, which are 
touching but are not forced together by the thrust load (the opposite in fact, 
in fwd).  This is indeed debilitating wear, and is well worth avoiding. 
I'm not an expert but the latter case is the only thing that makes sense to 
me.   
Thoughts?


Dave














Message: 5
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 07:04:32 -0700
From: Paul Baker 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
sailing?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

It depends on your transmission and engine. Yanmar had a bulletin a while 
back for their engines with Kanzaki transmissions stating that they should 
always be in neutral when sailing. Damage or wear to the transmission would 
occur otherwise.
Cheers,
Paul.

> Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 06:36:50 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while sailing?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: ghnewt...@gmail.com
> 
> Which gear is recommended (forward or reverse) while sailing? When the 
transmission is in forward I can feel the shaft turning while sailing. When it 
is in reverse I don't feel it. Which is preferred?
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Recommended size also depends in part on which gearing was supplied with your 
engine.
This link is to a Yanmar chart of recommended propeller sizes. 

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/yanmar/shopping/parts_references/prop.php
  - Original Message - 
  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 12:57
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


  I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right. 

  Steve Thomas
  Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robin Drew 
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem 
is that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.


It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew 
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

    On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


  The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the 
blades open all the way?
  Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
  I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves 
are supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the 
gear teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not 
open all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
  The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will 
cause the problem you describe. 
  There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON  
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robin Drew 
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
Subject: Stus-List Propeller


I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew 
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR





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Re: Stus-List Propeller shaft tube leak

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

You mean to say that someone mounted a zinc on the propeller shaft, and it 
rubbed against the fibreglass until it wore through? 
Seems hard to believe that anyone would put up with the noise that would make 
long enough for it to wear through. 
That said, fibreglass can be repaired, but I think that you need to take a 
second real close look at what is going on first before proceeding further. 

Does the rubber hose connecting the prop shaft tube to the stuffing box appear 
to be in good shape?
Are the hose clamps intact? Stainless or not, they do corrode and break. 
Other than the hose clamps, the rubber tube itself is the weakest link. 
You are certain that the water is not coming from the packing and running back 
underneath?

Is the boat out of the water? 
If the leak is not the packing itself then you will undoubtedly have to haul 
the boat to fix it properly, although you might get away with a temporary fix 
using urethane moisture cured sealant providing you find the leak's source. 

I just went through the process of removing the propeller shaft and replacing 
the stuffing box on my 36. It is not a task to be undertaken lightly, but 
failure of the stuffing box attachment to the prop shaft tube is not a trivial 
event.  
On that boat, a 2 1/2 year growth of barnacles and other marine accretions 
caused great friction between the stuffing box and the propeller shaft, and 
with a loud grinding noise the stuffing box and its rubber hose attachment 
broke free from the propeller shaft tube. The leak was sudden and considerable. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Jerome Tauber 
  Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 06:22
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller shaft tube leak


  I have a leak which appears to be coming from below the stuffing box from the 
shaft tube itself.  Has anyone ever experienced this.  Can the tube be repaired 
or does it have to be replaced.   It appears that someone mounted a zinc on the 
tube and the tube wore through there.   The engine is a Yanmar 1GM.  Jerry J&J 
C&C 27V




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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I have a 13 X 9 on my 27MKIII which works well, so that sounds about right. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 22:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller


  Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.


  It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

  Any comments?
  Robin Drew
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
the problem you describe. 
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller


  I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

  Robin Drew 
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR


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Stus-List Splash

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Splashed the 27 today, and a beautiful day it was on the shore of Lake Erie. 
Florida was nice, but it is good to be home too. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C 36
Merritt Island, FL___

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

When I wiggled back far enough to reach the grease cup on my 36 project boat, I 
found that after 35 years in Florida it was nothing but a flakey ball of rust. 
I tried to turn it anyway but it fell out of the fibreglass as soon as I 
touched it. The tiny bit of grease still protruding from what was left of the 
pipe thread was as hard as plastic. Access required disconnecting the exhaust 
hose and completely removing the port scupper hose. 

To free things up temporarily, I brushed transmission fluid on the rudder shaft 
and on the collar up top. After a surprisingly small bit of working it back and 
forth, it made a huge difference. A hose and a grease fitting is on the list of 
things to do. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
  Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 02:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve


  It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing a 
new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left in it) 
will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all the way,  
remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease is squeezed 
out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering easier.


  Some members have tapped the cup for a Zerk fitting.  Then greasing the 
rudder post can be done with a grease gun.



  Alan Bergen

  35 Mk III Thirsty

  Rose City YC

  Portland, OR


  On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:40 PM, 
  tom via CnC-List  wrot,
  Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection 
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the rudder 
in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for this. The 
local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of question is the 
thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch or 11 1/2 threads 
per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches in length.
  Any help?
  Thanks,
  Tom Oryniak
  33-1
  Carry On


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Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" citizen

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The American government is pretty extreme in its reporting requirements for 
visiting pleasure boats, especially that part about having to report every 
movement of the boat once in American waters. Can you imagine if they did that 
with cars? I seriously doubt that there are very many Americans who know about 
these requirements, let alone us dangerous foreigners with our 7 knot 
sailboats. 

The whole point in my getting a Nexus card was so that I would not normally 
have to report physically at a controlled point of entry. The border control 
people could insist on it at any time of course, but they normally don't. All 
of this was carefully laid out by the Nexus / Homeland Security / Canadian 
Border Services people when I got my card. If I understand the article 
correctly, this has now changed?

Steve.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Baker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Paul Baker 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:38
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US bya "visa exempt" 
citizen


  this might be 
useful.http://currents.bluewatercruising.org/articles/pleasure-boat-entry-us-new-process-2016/


--
  Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 15:05:25 -0600
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Arrival by private boat in the US by a "visa exempt" 
citizen
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: anitteb...@yahoo.ca

  Arrival on a commercial vessel is a non issue. Private /charter boat seems to 
be the problem. Or did you mean to say you've gone back and forth n your own or 
charter boat?



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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I am looking at doing a similar install on my 36. 
The T shaped cockpit sure limits the room down there. 
Been looking online for a suitable (2 piece) tiller arm, but am coming around 
to the conclusion that I will have to make one. 
I am thinking that a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum might do it, or maybe a 
diesel engine piston rod, if I could find one the right size. I don't know 
where to get a piece of bronze that big, and the price would be probably be 
ridiculous anyway. 
Changing the idler plate on the steering was very cramped, especially doing the 
cables on the radius wheel.  

In retrospect I think that I would have liked a 35 better just for the reason 
of room to work below the cockpit. 
I don't see any way to get at the exhaust hose to through hull connection at 
all. 

Steve Thomas
C&C 36 (1980)
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII (1978)
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
  To: csgilchr...@comcast.net 
  Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:45
  Subject: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38


  Hi Chuck,

  How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller 
fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was 
rather clever.  I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and 
that's the best "easy" solution I saw. 


  I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+ and 
for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the cockpit 
floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim ladder. The 
"correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube below decks, 
slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper supports and shelving.. 
That's a pretty labor intensive project..  


  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, GA






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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The Quikrete product is intended for buildings. 
Doesn't mean it won't work for other things. 

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling

Steve.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 11:58
  Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux


  Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, 
and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine 
version.


  Loctite Polyurethene here 
  Practical Sailor Article here


  Thanks,
  Kevin


  On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Thanks Bettina


Mike

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Hi Mike,
  Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
  Bettina

  On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Bettina

Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Sent from my Xperia™ tablet



 Bmue via CnC-List wrote 

Ryan,
Nice job.
Re finishing the topside.
Just do it. 

We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left on 
the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"

3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of 
the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and 
the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and 
at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 

My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some 
cleats and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what 
is set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some 
"special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the 
roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a 
Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't 
reach.

The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to apply 
and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it feels 
safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded parts of 
the deck. 

Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by 
practical sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along 
there, but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, 
after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk to 
dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was at the 
boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 

In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
finally came around.

Bettina

C&C 25 Savannah



> On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> 
> at

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Good advice Tim. 
Also flush with lots of fresh water if the boat is going to sit for a while. 

I would like to find a substitute part for the piston rod packing on the W.C. 
headmate. 
Don't need the whole kit, and I can't find a source for the individual parts 
anymore. 
Going to try backing up what is still left with some hardware store "graphite 
string" packing sold to fix faucet bonnet leaks, but if anyone has had good 
experience with something else, I would like to hear it. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Tim Goodyear 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 06:51
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden


  If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to try 
running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it to 
soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.


  Tim



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Re: Stus-List 30MkII 1988 galley thru hull size?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

You will need a bigger hole. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Lorne Serpa 
  Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 15:56
  Subject: Stus-List 30MkII 1988 galley thru hull size?


  Good day.  I'm asking because I just purchased my boat, but it is 2,000 miles 
away.  I want to plan my install before I get there to install it.
  I'm about to order a Isotherm 2551 Compact SP water cooled refrigeration 
system in my 1988 C&C 30MkII ice box.

  It uses a kitchen sink thru hull self pumping fitting in place of the galley 
sink drain thru hull.  The instructions for thru hull installation says 

  The skin fitting is to be mounted in the hull instead of existing fitting for 
the galley sink waste water. The hole in the hull shall have a diameter of 60 
mm (2½”).


  Anyone know what the galley sink waste water thru hull diameter is?  I wonder 
if I will have to enlarge the hull?


  Thank you.




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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe. 
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller


  I have just purchased a C&C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

  Robin Drew
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR


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Re: Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Technically, legally, both U.S. and Canadian boats are supposed to have a 
station license when sailing out of their home country's waters. (This may be a 
default international rule I am not sure.) 

Canada and the United States had an agreement to drop that requirement between 
our respective countries, but before it came into effect the 911 attacks 
happened, and the United States Government refused to proceed with it. This may 
be why there is so little enforcement. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

- Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Rick Brass 
  Sent: Friday, January 15, 2016 21:49
  Subject: Re: Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)


  The basic difference between an MMSI issued by Boat/US and one from the FCC 
is the availability of the data to search and rescue agencies. Boat/US share 
the database of boat description, emergency contacts, persons on board, cell 
phones aboard, etc. with the USCG. So if you make a distress call in US waters 
(or within range of the USCG) they look up your boat information, call your 
home and emergency contacts to make sure it is not a false alarm, call you back 
on the radio to identify your emergency and start the SAR process. 

   

  If you are out of the area covered by USCG, the SAR agency that gets your DSC 
mayday call gets your MMSI and position, but does not have access to the other 
information you submit with your application. They know you’re out there, but 
they don’t know who they are looking for or what resources they might need. 
That could potentially impede the search. Also, the majority of mayday calls 
received by the USCG are false alarms or hoaxes. Not to disparage any 3rd world 
SAR agencies or imply that the response to a call will be less than efficient, 
but can’t you imagine the following: “Hey, jefe, there is some bozo sending a 
distress call, but I can’t tell who or what they are.” “Damn. There’s a storm 
out there and it’s probably a false alarm anyway. Send out Pablo in the morning 
to see if he can see what’s up.” 

   

  Information associated with an MMSI issued by the FCC is shared not just with 
the USCG, but also internationally.

   

  If you are going to be out of US territorial waters you are legally supposed 
to have a Ship’s Station License issued by the FCC. Getting the license usually 
includes the MMSI number. You also need a Ship Station License if you are 
operating other equipment like AIS, radar, SSB or other HF radio, or an EPIRB.  
Boat/US says Canada does not enforce the licensing requirement. Don’t know 
whether it comes up when entering other countries, but not having all the 
appropriate paperwork and licenses when clearing into a country might be a 
cause for hassles, fees, and delays.

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, January 15, 2016 6:44 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: bobmor99 . 
  Subject: Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)

   

  Just read the nice BoatUS MMSI FAQ.
  https://www.boatus.com/mmsi/faq.asp

  As I understand it, both Canadian and US boaters have a choice for 
quick-easy-free MMSI number assignment (by Industry Canada or BoatUS) or a 
slower, not-free gov't issued MMSI number (which ends in a zero).

  Non-gov't issued MMSI numbers are only for use in Canadian or US waters.

  What would be the ramifications if I issued a DSC distress call from a radio 
with a BoatUS-supplied MMSI in, e.g., Bahamian waters?

  Would it go unnoticed? Would I be fined? Sorry to sound like a scofflaw, just 
trying to understand how the system works.

  Bob M

  Ox 33-1

  Jax, FL



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Re: Stus-List Testing DSC - monitoring Ch 16

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

There are a lot of people who don't monitor Ch 16 and who are well aware that 
they are supposed to. 
Just try getting a commercial fishing vessel to respond some time. 
May not be the same everywhere, but it is around here. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
  Sent: Friday, January 15, 2016 15:52
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Testing DSC


  Russ,

  You can call “me mates”, but you do it on Ch 70 (automatically) (instead of 
Ch 16). This frees Ch 16 for everyone else. After you establish communication, 
you move to a working channel, as normal.

  The radio always watches Ch 70 (even if you don’t), so you don’t need to 
worry about it. You should watch Ch 16, as usual, though there are discussions 
about getting rid of that requirement (assuming that everyone has a DSC radio).

  Marek

  From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
  Sent: Friday, January 15, 2016 12:23
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Russ & Melody 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

  Hi David,

  thanks for the info, looks like I got some reading to do or I could just ask 
the list... :)

  I thought to the DSC function was for ringing me mates on 16 (ring only their 
radio)  and then we go to a working channel in the normal fashion. 
  So if I have DSC enabled does the radio need to be on dual watch? 
  Maybe this is the year I get my number and configure the radio but then I'll 
have to find some friends too. :)

  Cheers, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1





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Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I use an "ATN tacker", which is a fibreglass saddle that slides up and down on 
the rolled up genoa. 
I also use a sleeve to douse the chute. The sleeve gives me more certainty of 
control, but it is too slow a process for racing round the buoys. 
There are rarely more than 2 people on the boat, and usually I am single 
handing. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Saur 
  Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 12:42
  Subject: Stus-List Cruising chute tack


  Ok...the thermometer just hit 30 and I'm all in thinking about getting the 
boat chores done...


  So a question:  I purchased a new asymmetrical cruising chute last year.  Of 
you experts out there with cruisin' chutes...what is your arrangement for 
securing the tack at the bow of the boat?  Years ago, with hank-on sails, wire 
forestay and a downhaul with single snapshackle to forestay, I could attach the 
chute to the forestay easily, and actually tack with the chute going under the 
forestay (old Columbia 26-2).


  I have seen the tacking sleeve used on some boats, and certainly have a 
regular and whisker poles, but are there other creative ways to attach and rig 
a cruising chute on a 35-3 or others?  Thanks in advance for keeping my spring 
hallucinations going...


  Chuck Saur
  Morning Sky
  C&C 35-3
  Hessel, MI



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Re: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Been 2 years since I was last there, and I agree that there are fewer new 
sailboats on display each year. 
That said, it is still worth a visit in my opinion. There is always lots of 
boat stuff besides new boats for sale and it is not difficult to spend a whole 
day there. 
I am a couple of hours out of town, and the snow squalls have kept me away so 
far this year. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Stevan Plavsa 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 15:34
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show


  Hi Francois, my partner and I are planning on a trip Friday after work. So 
we'll miss you. Based on last year's turn out though, not a lot of sailing 
stuff. This year there are three boats on display, a Hanse and I think a 
Junneau and something else. The sailboat representation has been shrinking 
since I started going. 


  The only reason I'm going is to look for a chartplotter. 
  Someone stop me if I'm wasting my time! (looking for the B&G Vulcan)


  Steve
  Suhana, C&C 32
  Toronto





  On Wed, Jan 13, 2016 at 3:20 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Happy New Year guys!

Last minute request: 

I'm in Toronto 'till Friday with some free time in the evening today and 
tomorrow.  Is it worth going to the boat show to see good sailing stuff or is 
it mostly power boat related? 

I'm open to meet for drinks too :-) 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I use a sanding block designed for touching up dry wall mud that attaches to a 
shop vac. 
It uses special sheets of what looks like window screen, but which is abrasive 
and is available in a few different grit sizes. 
That coupled with a fine dust bag in the shop vac, and I do my sanding indoors. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 13:04
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed


  Curtis,
  I wet sand with one of those abrasive sponges so that I smooth out the old 
paint and take off the surface crud.  Keeps dust down and does a good cleaning 
job.  You have to let it dry of course, but the next coat adheres well.
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  C&C 30-1
  STL








--
  From: Curtis via CnC-List 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
  Cc: Curtis 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 11:17 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed



  Thanksfor all the advise.
   I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on last time and it did 
well. I will use Ultra again. 
  The yard did it last time. I am going to save on the labor this time and DYI. 
  Just not sure if a light sand will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading 
edges and the Fin Rudder. The rudder always seams to have a beard.

  Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina.


  Thanks again Guys.










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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Makes sense to save money, but I would want to find out how to estimate the 
pounds of CaCl to size of bucket ratio. 
Nothing like an overflowing bucket of salty water in an untended boat. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 13:29
  Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


  Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. I am going to buy a big bag 
of it at Home Depot and leave a bucket sitting out. 

  We will see how well that works.
  Joe 

  Coquina

   

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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Chuck, 
I called Edson, and while the rep (Gene?) I talked to was quite 
pleasant to talk to, in the end he was no help at all. 
They have a steel plate, but they refuse to sell it or any other naked plate to 
me. Change in policy he said. 
Fear of insurance companies, or Edson's reputation if a customer install should 
fail, was the reasoning he thought, but he said it was not his decision.  
Edson will only sell complete assemblies, and only at their suggested retail. 
Frustrating!!!
Also they have new 2016 prices. 
He strongly recommends and wants to sell me a new chain and cable for US$ 
271.00, but he did confirm that they do use Port Supply as a distributor, which 
is good for me because I know someone who has a wholesale number. 

Anyway, thanks for trying to help.

Best,
Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
C&C27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:35
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  Just 2 cents from a former Edsonite (10+ years).  When replacing the Idler 
plate and uprights on a “vintage” crossed wire idler, the original plates were 
made of painted mild steel with bronze sheave uprights, using a pressed- in 
oversize pop rivets holding the uprights to the plate, thus allowing sheave 
assemblies to pivot and lock in place using a locking bolt/ nut and a groove 
cut in the plate to let the upright swing through an arc for proper alignment.  
 The placement of the pivot holes (which also are the holes the cable pass 
through) is critical relative to the sprocket inside the pedestal to allow the 
chain to cross inside the pedestal without rubbing on itself. 

   

  The new cross wire idler assemblies are now made of cast aluminum with 
stainless uprights but have the same physical dimensions with one exception- 
thickness of the plate, which can affect the cable alignment especially if your 
radial wheel is close by to the idler.  Edson does sell this Idler plate 
without sheaves, but the uprights are pre-installed at the factory.  I’d call 
the factory 508-995-9711 and ask for pricing for a 774AL-4AL less sheaves.   
They may even have a few mild steel plates banging around the building as well. 
 Unless you’re buying a new idler assembly, you’ll need to have a means of 
pressing the idler uprights onto a new plate in such a fashion that the upright 
will pivot to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel on the rudder shaft.

   

  In the event you make your own plate, make sure to change out the bronze 
sheave pins with stainless pins and check the sheave bushing/pin runout to make 
sure the sheaves are reusable.  I would advise not making an aluminum plate if 
you plan to re-use the bronze (pot metal) uprights for obvious reasons.

  This is also a really good time to replace your chain and wire cables since 
everything will be apart.  

   

  While this doesn’t necessarily help with the CAD issue, it may shed some 
light on the reason for the cost of the part, considering the engineering to 
make it work right out of the box.

  Best,

  Chuck Gilchrest

  Half Magic

  1975 25 Mk 1

  Orion

  1983 35 Landfall

  Padanaram MA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 10:01 AM
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

   

  Building off of Bill's comments, most "good" machine shops will take your 
file without any hesitation.  If you  find one that will then try my guy at:

  Harry "HL" Langley
  marsurl...@comcast.net
  (410) 326-2001

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Jan 4, 2016 4:41 AM, "S Thomas via CnC-List"  wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:

The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the 
Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing,

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for the information Chuck, your points are well taken. 
I will give the factory a call and see what options they are willing to make 
available. 

Regards,
Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:35
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  Just 2 cents from a former Edsonite (10+ years).  When replacing the Idler 
plate and uprights on a “vintage” crossed wire idler, the original plates were 
made of painted mild steel with bronze sheave uprights, using a pressed- in 
oversize pop rivets holding the uprights to the plate, thus allowing sheave 
assemblies to pivot and lock in place using a locking bolt/ nut and a groove 
cut in the plate to let the upright swing through an arc for proper alignment.  
 The placement of the pivot holes (which also are the holes the cable pass 
through) is critical relative to the sprocket inside the pedestal to allow the 
chain to cross inside the pedestal without rubbing on itself. 

   

  The new cross wire idler assemblies are now made of cast aluminum with 
stainless uprights but have the same physical dimensions with one exception- 
thickness of the plate, which can affect the cable alignment especially if your 
radial wheel is close by to the idler.  Edson does sell this Idler plate 
without sheaves, but the uprights are pre-installed at the factory.  I’d call 
the factory 508-995-9711 and ask for pricing for a 774AL-4AL less sheaves.   
They may even have a few mild steel plates banging around the building as well. 
 Unless you’re buying a new idler assembly, you’ll need to have a means of 
pressing the idler uprights onto a new plate in such a fashion that the upright 
will pivot to assure proper alignment with the radial wheel on the rudder shaft.

   

  In the event you make your own plate, make sure to change out the bronze 
sheave pins with stainless pins and check the sheave bushing/pin runout to make 
sure the sheaves are reusable.  I would advise not making an aluminum plate if 
you plan to re-use the bronze (pot metal) uprights for obvious reasons.

  This is also a really good time to replace your chain and wire cables since 
everything will be apart.  

   

  While this doesn’t necessarily help with the CAD issue, it may shed some 
light on the reason for the cost of the part, considering the engineering to 
make it work right out of the box.

  Best,

  Chuck Gilchrest

  Half Magic

  1975 25 Mk 1

  Orion

  1983 35 Landfall

  Padanaram MA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, January 4, 2016 10:01 AM
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

   

  Building off of Bill's comments, most "good" machine shops will take your 
file without any hesitation.  If you  find one that will then try my guy at:

  Harry "HL" Langley
  marsurl...@comcast.net
  (410) 326-2001

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Jan 4, 2016 4:41 AM, "S Thomas via CnC-List"  wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:

The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the 
Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, but at least I 
can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. 

 

 Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to be 
ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I 
actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase 
one for a reasonable price. 

 

Steve Thomas

C&C36 MKI

Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 

  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 

  To: C&C List 

  Cc: Gary Russell 

  Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 22:56

  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate

   

  Dennis, 

   

Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for the offer Bill.
I have a pdf file now from Neil that should satisfy my needs as far as 
printing goes.
It seems that the Edson files were not made, or at least saved, using 
AutoCAD and that may have been what was giving me a problem.

For what it is worth, the original file is here:

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/cad/dwg/Mcd_776_4_Adjustable_Crossed_Wire_Idler.dwg

It would be useful to be able to separate the layers, but at least I have 
enough to start on a layout.


Regards,

Steve Thomas


- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Connon via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Bill Connon" 
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 07:41
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem



S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:





Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL


 Steve,

Could you send me a copy of the file that you're trying to print. I have 
access to several versions of AutoCad and one of them might be able to 
print the file. For what it's worth my son works at programming in a 
machine shop and their production programs are all written in MasterCam.


Bill
Caprice 1



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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil. 
Got them, and replied off list. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Neil Gallagher 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 11:02
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  It appears the original files may not have been created in Autocad, which 
might be why you were having trouble plotting them out.  I'll send you the .pdf 
prints by private email. 

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
  Glen Cove, NY



  On 1/4/2016 10:28 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

I am sure that it is something I am doing wrong, since I got the Trueview 
product from Autodesk. 
The file is here:  
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/cad/dwg/Mcd_776_4_Adjustable_Crossed_Wire_Idler.dwg
 

I can see it in both the model and layout tabs, as downloaded, but it won't 
print for me. 

Thanks, 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Neil Gallagher 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:03
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  Not sure of just what .dwg you're referring to, but I was able to create 
a .pdf file by downloading one of the Autocad drawings on the Edison website: 
"Assembly 6" Sheave", file name "Mcd-620-6".  If you tell me which file you 
need, I should be able to send you a .pdf file of it.

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
      Glen Cove, NY


  On 1/4/2016 4:41 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:
The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of 
the Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, but at least I 
can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. 

 Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to 
be ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I 
actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase 
one for a reasonable price. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I am sure that it is something I am doing wrong, since I got the Trueview 
product from Autodesk. 
The file is here:  
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/cad/dwg/Mcd_776_4_Adjustable_Crossed_Wire_Idler.dwg
 

I can see it in both the model and layout tabs, as downloaded, but it won't 
print for me. 

Thanks, 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Neil Gallagher 
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 10:03
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem


  Steve,

  Not sure of just what .dwg you're referring to, but I was able to create a 
.pdf file by downloading one of the Autocad drawings on the Edison website: 
"Assembly 6" Sheave", file name "Mcd-620-6".  If you tell me which file you 
need, I should be able to send you a .pdf file of it.

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
  Glen Cove, NY


  On 1/4/2016 4:41 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:
The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the 
Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, but at least I 
can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. 

 Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to be 
ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I 
actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase 
one for a reasonable price. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 22:56
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate


  Dennis, 
   Interesting idea.  The file is the problem, however.
  Gary


  ~~~_/)~~





 

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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:
The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of the Edson 
steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost completely 
disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly from the Edson web 
page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview (2014) that is compatible 
with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) anything other than an empty 
rectangle. I have been poking at it quite a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have 
no experience with AutoCAD, and find the user interface tools less than 
intuitive. About like my first experience with vi in Unix, only less 
productive. Any fiddling with layer colours, and the layout tab disappears 
completely. Is there a simple way to print from either the model or the layout 
tabs in the file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print 
preview is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is all 
that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, but at least I 
can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points. 

 Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear to be ok, 
and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I think that I actually 
need. I would rather just make a mounting plate if I can't purchase one for a 
reasonable price. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 22:56
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate


  Dennis,
   Interesting idea.  The file is the problem, however.
  Gary


  ~~~_/)~~



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Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

While it would not be my choice, if you do decide to install a check valve, 
install it where you can get at it. They do stick shut sometimes, and for no 
obvious reason. Happened on a boat that I was crewing off the west coast of 
Vancouver Island. Nearly changed out the electric pump before we thought to 
check the check. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Joel Aronson 
  Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2016 16:52
  Subject: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help


  I replaced my automatic bilge pump switch with a waterwhich. When the when 
the switch activates the bilge pump, the bilge is pumped relatively dry. 
However when the pump shuts off water flows back into the bilge and so the pump 
is running in an endless loop. I see my alternatives as installing a check 
valve or installing a different brand of switch. I believe I previously had a 
Johnson switch. 


   any recommendations
  Joel
  35/3
  Annapolis 


  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Interesting photos of waves on L. Erie

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

It is a lot safer when on a passage to bring the dingy aboard and secure it to 
the foredeck. 
A lot of people make all kinds of excuses for not doing it because there is 
work involved, but you run the risk of losing it by towing. 

A friend of mine, sailing a Hughes 35, lost his new dingy on the relatively 
short passage from Chester to Brooklyn Nova Scotia. 
The weather did not follow the forecast, and a storm developed. Despite having 
2 lines on it and trying several different things to reduce the jerking and 
banging about, it  broke free and was lost. 
It may be better to be lucky than smart, but depending on luck can bite you in 
the long run.

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ainslie via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ainslie 
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2016 13:03
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Interesting photos of waves on L. Erie


  We sailed Spirit home from Lake Ontario to Lake Huron in mid-October. It was 
a heck of a passage up Lake Erie (or, as my wife dubbed it: Lake Eerie!) with 
20-25 kts on the nose, and a week at dock waiting for a gale to pass. The 
height of the waves coupled with short period (due to shallow waters) made for 
a rough ride in our newly-acquired 35 mk III. I understand this photographer 
was working from the shoreline, so there's a lot more drama in those photos. 

  And on the topic of towing, our 10-ft RIB towed through those waters like a 
champ, with a 15-hp motor on (raised up) and the gas can lashed under the seat. 
I thought the little fella was going to get swamped a hundred times, but it 
stayed upright for the entire 600-mile journey. We had a snubber (shock 
absorber) in the tow line which helped ease the load on the stern cleats. In a 
following sea, it would come up from behind and kiss the stern. I have a 
feeling the gas can might have taken on some water, however, because I couldn't 
get the otherwise-reliable outboard to fire up after we finally reached our 
home port of Bayfield. 

   

  Jason Ainslie, "Spirit"

  1984 C&C 35-3

  Bayfield, Ontario

   


--

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
  Sent: December-31-15 4:49 PM
  To: C&C List
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic
  Subject: Stus-List Interesting photos of waves on L. Erie

   

   

  I thought some of you may find this interesting: 

  crashing waves

   

  I found the link on SBO.

   

   

  Marek

   

  Sent from Mail for Windows 10

   



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Re: Stus-List Cabin Folding Table

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I also bought a 1980 model C&C 36 that is in need of TLC, in November of this 
year. 
The folding table on mine has a plastic pedestal at one end, and is fastened to 
the mast track at the other. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Tom Alessi 
  Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 19:44
  Subject: Stus-List Cabin Folding Table


  Hi,
  I'm new to the group. A year ago I purchased a 1980 C&C 36 that's in need of 
TLC.
  The interior folding table was not in place when I took possession and I was 
wondering if, in addition to the base attachment, is there an additional 
fastening system to the mast?

  Tom Alessi
  S/V ANDIAMO
  tagraph...@optonline.net



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Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

DON'T DO IT!

If you must use a fuel line anti-freeze, use a very small amount of 99% 
isopropyl alcohol. 
Do not use a lower percentage, and again, don't use very much. 
That was the advice I got from a Shell chemical engineer. 

If you are not sailing in below freezing conditions, use a commercial biocide 
designed for diesel, and follow the directions. 
A small amount of water should go through the injectors without harm, but a 
water separating filter is better.
 
What makes the water in a fuel tank bad is that bugs can grow in it and turn 
your diesel into black sludge. 
The point to the additive is to poison the bugs, not get rid of the water. 

My 2 cents.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bev Parslow 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 15:18
  Subject: Stus-List methyl hydrate


  Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it 
is beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?


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Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Agree also.
I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade 
geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the 
increased surface area.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
From: "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:47
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4


I agree I have a max prop 2 blade and reverse is just incredible it's like 
a tug boat is backing you up.


Gary Kolc
1976 38' MKII
Liberty
 Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
 "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a 
geared one so that you can be sure that it opened."


Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade Max-prop 
goes very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often prefer to 
extract myself in reverse!


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:

>
> No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a 
> geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

That is the OEM standard for that boat. 
The 2GM20 is also rated at 20 Hp, depending on what reference you are using.
On that basis the boat would meet the rule of thumb of 2 rated Hp per 1000 
pounds of displacement. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Hickson via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bob Hickson 
  Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2015 13:09
  Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 mark 2 (1985)




  A good friend is interested in making an offer on a 33 mark 2 centerboard 
version. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM20 with a 2 blade feathering prop - 16 Hp. 
This is the basically the same engine that I have in my 29 mk 2. It would seem 
that the boat would be underpowered with this engine. Does anyone have 
information that might help to answer this question. Did C&C offer an option of 
the 2GM or 3GM engine in this boat?


  Bob Hickson 
  Flying Colours 29 mk 2
  Toronto




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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I ran a small bead of 3M 4000 UV along the tops of my cabin windows, and after 
a couple of years noticed that it had separated from the Plexiglas along the 
entire length. It is still stuck very well to the gelcoat. Maybe it would have 
stuck with a suitable primer, I don't know, but I found no reference to any 
such thing when I (later) checked the product documentation. Adhesion 
characteristics for metals, gelcoat, fibreglass, hardwoods, and even nylon are 
given, but acrylic plastic is not mentioned and there is no list of materials 
with poor adhesion characteristics. Seems odd given that the "UV" 
characteristic is specifically mentioned as making the product suitable for 
glazing.

Anyway, that was my experience. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 19:51
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


  Allen,
   If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
  Gary


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


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Re: Stus-List Barient 32ST

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I put a bid in, and looked around at some of the other winches offered for 
sale. Started also checking on the feedback posted for those doing the selling. 
Looks like a few people are wrecking a lot of sailboats in the Cocoa area, 
since the same people are selling winches and other expensive hardware time 
after time. Makes me wonder where some of it might be coming from...

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bill Coleman 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2015 15:28
  Subject: Stus-List Barient 32ST


  Another pair of Barients on EBay.

   

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/181948177579?item=181948177579&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

   

   

  Bill Coleman

  C&C 39 Erie, PA

   

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers now instrument errors

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Our slips are in a river. 
There are occasions where 2kts in the slip is a correct reading. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
  Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 23:45
  Subject: Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers now instrument errors


  I've got a friend with a really fast boat; does 2kts in the slip.
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  C&C 30-1
  STL




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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I have an old black and orange zodiac that I believe may have been part of 
Finisterre's equipment at one time.

It has Finisterre written on it in big black letters anyway.
Bought it well used from a guy in London Ontario, who had a very large 
house, and who told me he had been using it "up at the cottage".
I was not familiar with the boat name, but the guy I took it to for 
re-gluing in Port Dover was impressed. Said that he knew the boat.

That was about 12 years ago.

You just never know what person or what historical object you might bump 
into.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL


- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Frank via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Eric Frank" 
Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2015 17:41
Subject: Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers


Russ,
Delighted to hear that my language apparently puts me in the “young” 
category.  I turned 70 this summer - used to build ham radio transmitters 
with my father using vacuum tubes.  I do have an old handheld weather radio 
that tunes in AM, but the input from this list has convinced me to replace 
the old transducer.


The input on this subject has been very helpful, especially the suggestions 
for how to remove the old transducer.  It sounds much easier than I had 
imagined.  And as Fred points out - who knows - I might need to measure 
water temperature when I sail to Bermuda again - not since 1972 when I 
sailed to the Azores with my father on a lovely 43 foot SS yawl, a sister 
ship to Finisterre.


Cheers,  Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA




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Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The more I think about it, the less certain I am which was which now. 
It was a long time ago, but I know that I had to use a hole saw for at least 
one of them in replacing Datamarine with Raytheon. 

Steve. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 11:12
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder


  Patrick, 
  Come to think of it, you are correct. I had to cut a bigger hole 
for the Airmar speed transducer, and not the depth transducer, as I previously 
and erroneously stated. 
  My bad. 

  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  C&C36 MKI
- Original Message - 
From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Patrick Davin 
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 10:19
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder





@ Steve Thomas: The Datamarine speed transducer in my experience was 
exactly the same diameter as the Airmar transducers. Are you saying the depth 
trans is smaller than the speed? That would be surprising, but I suppose it's 
possible.


-Patrick
C&C LF38









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Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Patrick, 
Come to think of it, you are correct. I had to cut a bigger hole 
for the Airmar speed transducer, and not the depth transducer, as I previously 
and erroneously stated. 
My bad. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
C&C36 MKI
  - Original Message - 
  From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Patrick Davin 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 10:19
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder


  


  @ Steve Thomas: The Datamarine speed transducer in my experience was exactly 
the same diameter as the Airmar transducers. Are you saying the depth trans is 
smaller than the speed? That would be surprising, but I suppose it's possible.


  -Patrick
  C&C LF38






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Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The good thing about removing a stuck Datamarine depth transducer is that it 
is a smaller diameter than the transducers used with Raymarine and other 
manufacturers. If you are careful and lucky, no repair to the hull will be 
necessary.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Bill Bina" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 08:18
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder


Just removed mine a few weeks ago. Actually I removed both my speed and my 
depth transducers. The speed transducer was bedded with some normal type 
of bedded and I had little trouble popping it out with some vigorous 
pounding with a 3 pound plastic deadblow hammer.


The depth transducer was apparently bedded with 3M 5200 and nothing would 
budge it even slightly. It was essentially welded in placed.


I finally gave up and used a 2 inch hole saw from outside and cut it out. 
The hole saw bottomed out before it was free, so I had to stop and hack 
out some of the transducer with a hammer and wood chisel before finishing 
up with the holesaw, which also left me with the 2 inch hole needed for 
the new transducer.


Needless to say, I bedded the new transducers with Lifeseal.

If your transducer is bedded with 5200, you will not be removing anything 
suitable for repair. Defender can sell you a replacement for around $100 
or so. I went with a retractable model so I can pull it mid season for 
cleaning.


Bill Bina

On 11/25/2015 7:56 AM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:

More on removal.
So I looked more closely at the transponder and found that it appeared to 
be held in place with a threaded "collar" - this came off easily. However 
the transponder itself won't budge.  I tried to tap the top of the 
transponder with a mallet, being careful not to damage the wire, but 
there was no noticible movement. There is a piece of plywood bonded to 
the inside of the hull which gives allows the collar to be screwed tight. 
The hole through the plywood is tight against the transponder, but I 
don't think tight enough to hold it in place against mallet taps.


Am I missing some other retainer - or it the through hull  itself 
threaded?



--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 9, 2015, at 06:32, Indigo  wrote:

I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair. 
Does anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't 
see any retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies 
it should be removable with ease.


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


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Re: Stus-List Florida... was Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Same marina! I am pretty impressed with the place so far. 
Seems fairly well managed and friendly as far as I could tell in the few days I 
was there. 
Expensive if all you wanted was a place to store your boat, but not bad as 
marinas go. 
The blackened Mahi sandwiches in the restaurant are not bad either. 
Don't care for the no-see-ums much, but they manage to find me wherever I go 
down south. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Evan Morgan 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 18:59
  Subject: Florida... was Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures


  Steve, off topic, but where in Merritt Island is your 36? Our "big boat" is 
in Harbortown.

  Evan
  C&C 26 Encounter
  Pearson 424

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks Larry, I will follow up with you off list. 

Steve T.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Douglas via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Douglas 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 13:05
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures


  Steve

  I will be going to my boat Monday or Tuesday.

  I am going to replace my fluorescent fixtures with led behind the panel

  I am not sure if mine and yours are the same.

  I have a 1986 38-ft MKIII

  If they are, you are welcome to have them for the price of shipping.

  If you can send me a jpg or something of yours I will be able to tell.

  Larry

  ladoug...@whidbey.com

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 9:51 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: S Thomas
  Subject: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

   

  Does anyone know if the flourescent light fixtures as used in the main cabins 
of late 1970s to at least early 1980s C&C yachts are still available? 

  I just bought a fixer-upper 1979 36 MKI where both have been removed. 

  Yeah I know leds are supposed to be better, but want fixtures that are 
similar in appearance to the originals if I can find them. 

   

  Yes I am now a fleet owner, and will be leaning heavily on list advice and 
Wally's experiences as documented on his web site. 

   

  Steve Thomas

  C&C27 MKIII

  Port Stanley, ON

  C&C36 MKI

  Merritt Island, FL

   

   
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Bingo!

They are definitely Thin Lite fixtures, and yup they are still available for a 
price.
Even have led versions.  

Steve T. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: CnClist 
  Cc: Dennis C. 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 13:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures


  I'm guessing it's a Thin Lite #126 if it's a double bulb fixture.  Yes, they 
are still available.


  Dennis C.



  On Sat, Nov 21, 2015 at 11:50 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Does anyone know if the flourescent light fixtures as used in the main 
cabins of late 1970s to at least early 1980s C&C yachts are still available? 
I just bought a fixer-upper 1979 36 MKI where both have been removed. 
Yeah I know leds are supposed to be better, but want fixtures that are 
similar in appearance to the originals if I can find them. 

Yes I am now a fleet owner, and will be leaning heavily on list advice and 
Wally's experiences as documented on his web site. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Good advice. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: stumurray25--- via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: stumurra...@gmail.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 13:04
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures


  Steve

  Check out some of the local RV shops.  You will have a better choice and the 
prices will be a lot less.

  Stu


  From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
  Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 12:50 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: S Thomas 
  Subject: Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

  Does anyone know if the flourescent light fixtures as used in the main cabins 
of late 1970s to at least early 1980s C&C yachts are still available? 
  I just bought a fixer-upper 1979 36 MKI where both have been removed. 
  Yeah I know leds are supposed to be better, but want fixtures that are 
similar in appearance to the originals if I can find them. 

  Yes I am now a fleet owner, and will be leaning heavily on list advice and 
Wally's experiences as documented on his web site. 

  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON
  C&C36 MKI
  Merritt Island, FL


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Stus-List Cabin Flourescent Light Fixtures

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Does anyone know if the flourescent light fixtures as used in the main cabins 
of late 1970s to at least early 1980s C&C yachts are still available? 
I just bought a fixer-upper 1979 36 MKI where both have been removed. 
Yeah I know leds are supposed to be better, but want fixtures that are similar 
in appearance to the originals if I can find them. 

Yes I am now a fleet owner, and will be leaning heavily on list advice and 
Wally's experiences as documented on his web site. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Rob,
Painting over one kind of paint with another is quite different 
from what you originally proposed, which was to mix them all together in a 
can first. I think that is a bad idea unless you are certain that the paints 
all have essentially the same chemistry in their drying process. It might 
work, but why not play it safer, and just use one can until it runs out, and 
then the next, and so on.



Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


- Original Message - 
From: "robert via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "robert" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 12:47
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint



Mike:

I am not so sure I would trust them. years ago, I bought a Kirby 25 
with VC 17...I wanted to put Micron CSC on the bottom but I did not 
want to remove the VC17...I will never remove antifouling paint again.


I asked Interlux tech support if I could put the CSC over the VC 
17."absolutely not was Interlux's answer.the CSC will simply peel 
off and provide no antifouling protection.you must remove the VC 17".


I gave it a wet sanding with 320 grit paper and applied the Micron CSC 
over it..absolutely no problem for the 7 years we raced the boat. 
John Roy and Paul Gallant remarked how nice the bottom of the Kirby 
was..John even felt the bottom had been 'long sanded' at some point 
before I bought the boat.


I painted the entire inside of the Kirby with Brightside..Interlux 
told me it would peel if I didn't prime first..no primer and one part 
Brightside worked finenever peeled.


Maybe I just answered my own question..what possible harm could it do!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-18 11:46 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Contact interlux tech support to ask this question.  www.yachtpaint.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert 
via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

I have 3 different kinds of antifouling paint (Micron 66, Micron CSC and 
another ablative with 43% copper ) ..approx. a litre or quart of 
each.


Would it be alright to dump all of it into one one gallon can and mix it
all together.   I realize they might have different individual
effectiveness but do I really care if I don't have to buy a gallon of 
paint in the Spring.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Stus-List Chain Plate Bolt Torque

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Anyone know what the factory torque specification was on the chain plate bolts 
in a C&C27 MKIII?
These are the fairly narrow stainless steel chainplates. 

I don't trust the standard bolt torque table recommendations for this 
application since these are compressing against a wooden composite, and I don't 
know for sure what the bolt material is anyway. 

I can do a pretty good by guess and by gosh I think, but I would rather have 
the number if anyone knows what it is. 

Thanks. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII (1978)
Port Stanley, ON




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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yard Service quality

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

"...just a hobby."  ?

You are kidding right?

Sailing is a disease!

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: bobmor99 . 
  Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2015 20:33
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yard Service quality


  My $.02,


  This sailing stuff is just a hobby. It's up to the owner to detect and deal 
with whatever design or maintenance shortcomings manifest themselves. If 
something seems awry, it's up to the owner to decide whether to DIY or hire out 
the fix. If it's the latter, then ask around. DIY = fewer problems (often) and 
more eventual knowledge (always).


  --Bob M

  Ox 33-1

  Jax, FL


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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

One of these will do the job for a 30 amp receptacle.

http://www.amazon.com/Amp-600V-Bridge-Rectifier-Pack/dp/B001JSV678

Mount in a suitable box, or in the distribution panel itself if there is 
room.

Jumper the + and - terminals.
Put the AC terminals in series with the shore ground.
Use appropriate 10 gauge wire and connectors.
Smear terminals with dielectric grease.
Done.
1.2V drop/isolation.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


- Original Message - 
From: "Leslie Paal via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Leslie Paal" 
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2015 12:38
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?


in most cases the GIs have 4 diodes in them for 1.2V drop/isolation.  (2 
in series in each direction)  Selecting components for a given amp rating 
is not hard.  But, selecting components and enclosure that can withstand 
the environment is a bit of a challenge.


Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Wed, 10/28/15, Don Wagner via CnC-List  wrote:

Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: "Don Wagner" 
Date: Wednesday, October 28, 2015, 1:55 PM





Josh

To answer your question about “What are the shaft
zincs protecting?”
Assuming you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the
rudder post, the
keel bolts (especially if you have the C&C Smile), as
well as any other of
the usual underwater metals.
You should protect these items as the can’t be easily
inspected, but
failure can be a real disaster.

If you have a shaft isolator, you should install one
or more copper
jumpers between the engine coupling and the prop shaft
coupling.



Also Galvanic isolators
are suggested for
situations where you suspect the AC system at the marina or
nearby boats may be
compromised.

Note: Galvanic isolators
are a simple circuit
made up 2 big diodes wired in parallel but pointed in
opposite directions. Since
the diodes are not perfect they create about .6 volt DC
barriers to prevent the
corrosion currents needed for electrolysis.

A big capacitor is also
connected in
parallel with the diodes to allow AC current at low levels
and in case of diode
failure. All three components are mounted on a large heat
sink to keep the parts
cool and insure a longer life.
Don’t try building this
yourself, unless you can
design the proper size diodes and capacitors and heat sink the box

Just my
$.02


Don Wagner
C&C 41
CB
Der Baron


From: Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: C&C
List
Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good
idea?


Since we're on topic. It seems that there
is a bit of differing
opinions on bonding the under water metals.
What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?
If a shaft
coupling isolator were installed and no bonding wire
attached then the chance of
stray galvanic currents is eliminated. Right? What is
the risk
of this situation? I don't have bonding plates, bronze
through hulls, keel
coolers or anything else except the keel that is metal and
in contact with the
water.
I've considered possible corrosion effects
on internal engine
components and A/C components. Seems plausible but no one
ever talks about
it. Thoughts?
I've also considered the anode in the water
heater. Seems like
the most likely to experience stray galvanic currents and
the least likely to be
replaced or checked on any regular periodicity despite its
ease of access within
the boat.
I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter
so only 1 shore power
cord is required. I also built my own galvanic isolator
for ~$30 with
parts from mouser.com, I've just never
had the
urgent need to install it.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 



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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Ed, 
   What you say is true from the perspective of having effective galvanic 
isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. In order 
for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From an 
engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough capacity to 
reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but most electrical 
codes require that they have the same capacity as the main conductors. In other 
words, if you care about regulations and some people on this list have 
indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most likely have to 
have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore power receptacles. 
According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional and 
at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be ABYC 
compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The prices 
are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
   If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, then a 
big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC terminals 
connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than something that says 
"marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does not matter, just the 
current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of isolation from the mains 
ground. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - 
  From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: ed vanderkruk 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 11:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?


  Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't think 
the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power circuits 
have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not switched and almost 
certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your boat bridges the ground 
circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but they would likely share a 
common ground at or near the dock in any case. As the isolator is in-line of 
the grounding conductor one properly sized device could, where installation is 
practical, handle both power receptacles.

  Ed

  On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Joel,

I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.

I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore 
power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits on 
one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of the 
logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina will be 
wired from the same source.

Dennis C.

On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one 
can handle both.


  I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is off 
the menu!


  Joel


  On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My Quicksilver and this one  
(http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032&id=1118395) have the 
ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear to meet this 
standard.

Joe

Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?



I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.

It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc 
consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you 
problems.

Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore 
power. 

The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe' 
model as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention a 
remote monitor being required. 

Ed

On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Does anyone use one of these:



http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032&id=605562



Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are 
plugged in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.  



Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?




-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I have always used rings on turnbuclkes, they are much quicker to adjust and 
less likely to cause wounds, but the last few years have had trouble getting 
good ones. The wire is too soft and winds up getting mangled. Chinese junk I 
suppose, but the local marinas don't have a better source. 
Anyone found a source with decent quality online?

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Jake Brodersen 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 06:53
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned


  David,

   

  I use rings in most places on my boat.  No issues.  It makes it easy to 
adjust the rigging often.

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

  Hampton VA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
Knecht via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 22:12
  To: CnC CnC discussion list
  Cc: David Knecht
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

   

  I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles 
instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes 
find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any 
down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

   

  On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List  
wrote:





   



--


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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

 If the tank is empty for all but a small bit at the bottom, and (this is 
critical) no pipes still have or will have water in them, and all valves are 
open, then you should be ok. A shop vac is your friend when it comes to making 
sure that lines are dried out. Works wonders for that last bit in the bilge and 
the ice box too. Those last little bits of water are much more likely to be 
responsible for obnoxious scum than freezing damage in my opinion, but still a 
good reason to dry them out if you can. The potable water system is less likely 
to contain nutrients for slime causing bugs. The ice that forms from very small 
amounts of water remaining in the bottom of a container, and the expansion of 
water as it approaches plus 4 degrees Celsius, is not like the pack ice that 
crushed the Endurance. It needs to be confined in some way to cause damage. The 
confinement can come from ice as it forms, and so the danger from water 
remaining in lines or in pumps, but a tiny bit in the bottom of a tank or 
muffler would not cause me concern. Maybe it should, but if that is the case 
then I have been lucky. I got sick of the taste of plumbing antifreeze early on 
too.
 I don't know why you would have rubber parts in a hot water tank, and barring 
that I don't see how pure alcohol would hurt, but I agree with the other 
comments that suggest that it is probably a waste of good booze. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Russo via CnC-List 
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: John Russo 
  Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 20:20
  Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank


  Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as an 
alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The drain 
in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always some 
residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve open for 
expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank connections. 
Any advice would be appreciated.

   

  John

  Arpeggio C&C 32

  Norwalk, CT



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Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The line stripper, which is neither round nor concentric, is a more difficult 
part to make. 
Stainless steel is the most unforgiving of all metals to machine in my 
experience. 
It varies with the alloy I suppose, but it can be very easy to work harden the 
surface. 
Anything but the sharpest tools and you are asking for trouble. 

I would like to have the stripper-less winch also, but if both Josh and Tim are 
on the same side of the border, then shipping would be cheaper.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 09:55
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's


  I'll take the spare parts but I'd also recommend getting it fixed.  A local 
machinist did mine for me.  Here are some pictures.

  https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZHVtUmhnX2xFR2s/edit

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 

  On Oct 26, 2015 9:25 AM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Hi all,


I have a Barient 19ST, but it has a small problem...  The boat yard dropped 
the line stripper overboard when servicing the winch a couple of years back.  
It too me up to now to get in touch with Allen Hutton at Australian Winch PTY 
and that part would have to be fabricated @$375!  Does anyone have any use for 
any spare parts before I throw the rest away?


Thanks,


Tim




    On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 12:00 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  The self tailing version of a Barient 18 is a Barient 19, and I would 
like to find them too. 
  They are a very useful size, in high demand, and don't come up for sale 
very often.

  Steve Thomas 
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 10:09
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's


I am still looking for a Barient 18 self tailer or similar, if anyone 
knows of one.

Kevin



On Tue, Sep 8, 2015, 6:02 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I fitted them to my 24 and they worked fine, were a struggle to get 
on but that meant they never slipped. 
  Cheers
  Paul


--
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:08:15 -0300

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: rtaill...@eastlink.ca



  I have them on my 25 and they work great.  They came on a pair of 
Barient 18s that I traded for another pair of winches I had  and some splicing 
jobs.

  I don’t know what size they are but they almost look a size too small 
for the winches, maybe that’s why I haven’t had the slippage problems that some 
people have had.  There is no way I could get my normal sheets in the outer 
groove but my light air ones do fit.  I use 5/16” sheets and the key is to get 
three full wraps on the winch then grind it in to jam the top wrap against the 
bottom of the Wincher, if I don’t do that the sheet will back off.  I like them 
because you can take in the majority of the sheet before the load comes on then 
put on the third wrap and finish trimming in the sail with one hand, great for 
single handed sailing.  I still have to deal with the sheet as it comes off the 
winch but I can crank it in a couple turns before it gets around to the front 
of the winch, if you have someone to tail this is a non-issue.





  Rick Taillieu

  Nemesis

  '75 C&C 25  #371

  Shearwater Yacht Club

  Halifax, NS.







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
  Sent: September-07-15 19:16
  To: C&C List
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's



  I had them on my C&C 24 and I could not make them to work. I removed 
them. 



  But ymmv. 



  Marek 







  Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.



   Original message 
  From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
  Date: 2015-09-07 18:07 (GMT-05:00) 
  To: CnC CnC discussion list  
  Cc: David Knecht  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's 

  What about $50 for Winchers 
(http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358547%7C2358555&id=899493)?
  I am considering trying one for one of my cabin top small secondaries.  I 
have read that they work.  Dave



  Aries

  1990 C&C 34+

  New London, CT






On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:05 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Pairs of used self tailers on eB

Re: Stus-List Antifreeze

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I use concentrated engine antifreeze, but I sure don't use 4 gallons. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: robert via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: robert 
  Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 23:40
  Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze


  Marek / Chuck:

  I have never checked the actual concentration of the AF leaving the 
exhaust.been doing the same thing for 10 years nowyou are making me 
nervous!

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.


  On 2015-10-22 11:51 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

agree w Marek,

I use about 4 gallons to do the boat if I capture the exhaust.  6 if I 
don't.  Ace Hardware has the best price now less than $2.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md






From: "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Marek Dziedzic" 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 10:48:19 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!



Rob,



You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would 
not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual concentration 
of AF that is _leaving_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l - 25 l). The extra 
$3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) the heat exchanger or the 
muffler.



Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection .



Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 21:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!



Chuck / Dave:




Chuck, I am with youI don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze 
would get to the engine this way.



Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the 
same.  While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a fresh 
water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it happensI run a 
hose from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove the raw water hose to the 
pump, of course)..start the engine to flush the salt water and warm up the 
engineshut the engine down..empty the bucket of fresh water.put a 
gallon of concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the 
bucketrestart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the exhaust 
thruhullsystem full of antifreeze..shut down the engine.my Yanmar 
2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 gallons .always a little 
left which I put in the head.



Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock?   As mentioned by a lister, 
first check your impeller in the raw water pump..if it is fine and all 
intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock  but I am no marine engine 
mechanic.



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 
On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

  Dave,

  I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way 
you describe.  The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be 
angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine.  Before it backs up into the 
engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat 
exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back 
into the engine.  That's a lot of water to move.  Also, remember if the engine 
was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the 
intrusion is limited.   Starting the thing might blow it all out?



  If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw 
water pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine 
turning.  I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement?



  I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason 
probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off.  Did you hear 
the solenoid click?  Did the starter whine or hum at all?



  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




--

  From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: "David Pulaski" 
  Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM
  Subject: Stus-List  Hydrolocked!



  Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday 
when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.



  So here's how I managed to do this:



  I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water.  First 
I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got 
everything ready.  After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake 
seacock, here was my winterizing plan:  5 gallon bucket si

Stus-List Patricia Category 5 Ping Wally

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

  Hey Wally, 
I think, and I certainly hope!, that you are well north of 
the projected path. 
  Any news on the expected effects and preparations underway where you are?

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I once worked as a supervisor in the area where windshields were installed in 
an automotive assembly plant. At that time the adhesives used were all moisture 
cured polyurethane type adhesives, and so far as I know they still are. Proper 
primer and application procedure was critical to getting the stuff to stick to 
the glass, and was also a legal requirement for the painted metal, but the 
degree of adhesion to un-primed paint surfaces depended enormously on the paint 
chemistry. In 1996 the paint chemistry was changed. Prior to that time, an 
accidental glob of adhesive on the paint was easy to peel off once cured, and 
did not damage the paint at all. It didn't stick well at all. After the paint 
chemistry change, the adhesive would stick like a barnacle, and any that got on 
a painted surface had to be removed immediately to prevent damage. The point to 
this story is that Sika 295 sounds like the same class of adhesive, and if it 
is, then the chemical makeup of the surfaces to be bonded matters a lot. I 
haven't used that brand, but if it specifies a particular primer or surface 
preparation, then I would follow the instructions to the letter. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Paul Fountain 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 08:44
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows


  When the second windows were installed, they used Sika 295 and primer also, 
then a Sika caulk around the windows looks great. - Kim was an artist with how 
well he matched the gel coat where he did repairs ...

   

  Paul Fountain

  Managing Director

  SeaSource Inc.

  Bookkeeping & IT Services.

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 8:40 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: robert 
  Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows

   

  I don't know what choices in adhesives C&C had to choose from in 1984 when my 
boat was built, nevertheless, the one used was Plexus, which harden like resin 
and was the cause of my windows leaking.

   The windshield on my car is part of the vehicle's 'structural integrity' and 
it is held in place by a Sikaflex productI used Sika 295 UV when I replaced 
my windows about 7 years ago.I had my car windshield replaced about 2 years 
ago and I asked the guys doing it what was the adhesive they were 
using.they told me it was  Sika with a Sika primer and probably the only 
difference in the two products was the 'curing time'.  The windshield guy said 
that they can't use a product with a 24 hour cure time.the Sika product 
they used has a cure time of approx. 2 hours.  I understand the logistics of 
the shorter cure time for the car windshield.

  Seven years with the Sika 295 and no issues to date.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.

  On 2015-10-21 9:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

I just replaced the glued in ports on a small 26 footer.  I put them in 
with LifeSeal.  The manufacturer currently puts them in with silicone.  The 
ports are around 4 feet long but the opening does have a post in the middle for 
strength.

I can't help but wonder why not put the newer C&C ports in with a more 
flexible adhesive?  I understand they are supposed to be structural and that 
stiff adhesives are conventional wisdom but is it absolutely necessary?  I 
guess without a structural engineer revisiting any calculations that Rob Ball 
did, we may never know.

Just idle curiosity.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:52 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  We have done the windows twice - first time the contractor used ¼" - lots 
of issues, then had South Shore make a new set from the original templates, and 
they are 3/8" and have done much better - had a lot of repair work around the 
windows as a result of the first contractor, so could not make our own 
templates.

   

  Paul Fountain

  Managing Director

  SeaSource Inc.

  Bookkeeping & IT Services.

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2015 9:16 PM
  To: C&C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows

   

  I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High 
Maintenance (1990 C&C 37 Plus).  The windows have been replaced before (not 
original) and are currently 1/4" acrylic.  Is that the right thickness?  I've 
seen in some places references to 3/8" windows.  So were the original windows 
1/4" or 3/8"?

   

  Thanks,

  Gary

  s/V High Maintenance

  '90 C&C 37 Plus

  East Greenwich, RI, USA

   

  ~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List Ipad Question

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The 7 inch Zeus and the 7 inch Vulcan are the same price at Defender. 

Are they different in any significant way?

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Joel Aronson 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2015 13:06
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ipad Question


  That's the retail price.  By spring the price will come down.  It will also 
force Garmin and Ray to cut their prices.


  They must know they are competing with tablets - especially if they read our 
threads!


  Joel


  On Tue, Oct 6, 2015 at 12:34 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Got excited about the B&G promotion since my Raymarine C80 is due for an 
upgrade. Unfortunately, It appears that the $599 is the already reduced price 
(from $799):



http://www.seawide.com/images/Sales_Bulletins_B&G_Vulcan_7_Simrad_Go7_Lowrance_Elite_CHIRP_Price_Reductions.pdf


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD





Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 14:13:19 +
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ipad Question
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: djhaug...@juno.com



This looks like a really nice, inexpensive solution for a chart plotter!  I 
don't see the reduced pricing yet.  What about a radar solution?

Danny
Might get to bring the boat  home this weekend!

-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List  Ipad Question
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 09:52:51 -0400

Hi Chuck, 

Yes it'll work fine with any instruments that can talk to a NMEA 2000 
network. 

Since you have the Tactick system that transmits NMEA 0183 you'll need this 
converter :  
http://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/actisense-ngw-1-nmea-0183-to-2000-gateway/1307655/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=1662583&country=us&gclid=CjwKEAjw4s2wBRDSnr2jwZenlkgSJABvFcwQTGaulDcBcVV4wiHa3zIgsZyuGuUAaftmvj4Cz__9BxoCiPjw_wcB

 or something similar. 

It's a heck of a deal to get genuine "designed for sailing" equipment for 
about the price (Or less) of the Apple toy.  And it connects to the internet 
for upgrades and future apps. (Runs on Linux) 

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 




Message: 3
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 02:17:35 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ipad Question
Message-ID:

<1267067373.15514640.1444097855265.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Francois, 
Would the B&G Vulcan IPad work with non B&G components? 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2015 10:25:38 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Ipad Question 

I just got an email from B&G saying they are dropping the price by $200.00 
the street price was $599.00 that would take it down somewhere near $399. 00 
for the real thing complete with sailsteer, laylines, onboard instruments 
integration, tough fully bonded waterproof touchscreen you can actually see in 
the sun and operate with gloves, everything.. 

Just sayin' 

http://www.bandg.com/en-US/Product-Groups/Vulcan-7/


Regards 

-Francois 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA


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  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--


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Re: Stus-List Darwins List

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

It takes 6 days for a container ship to transit from Jacksonville to San Juan, 
with a number of ships making regular runs.  
Crooked Island is about 3/4 of the way there, give or take, so they probably 
set sail Saturday or Sunday. 
The distress call came at 07:30 on Thursday morning, with the ship reporting 
that it was about 35 miles off Crooked Island. 

The storm was upgraded to Hurricane status at 08:00 Wednesday morning, and had 
not been predicted to impact the Bahamas at all until Tuesday afternoon when 
the projected track became more SW. It developed from a tropical storm to a 
class 4 hurricane in less than 2 days. 

Hindsight is 20 20, but based on the weather status Saturday, or even Sunday, 
their choice at the time does not sound all that unreasonable to me.  Sunday 
morning there was a tropical depression forming near Bermuda, but it was not 
expected to strengthen much in the next 48 hours. These guys were headed south 
east, and may have already left port by the time the tropical depression was 
reported, but in any case they must have figured on being to far south to 
matter if it did develop in to something big. They were wrong. 

By the time the weather forecast had the storm big and coming their way, they 
had nowhere else to go. The storm closed in behind them as they headed south, 
east of Bahamas Bank. 

The link is to a storm time table, published this morning in the Nassau 
Guardian. It makes interesting reading. Did not sound that dangerous to start 
with, and did not follow the usual path. 
The Islands of the Bahamas, and the Bahamas government, were largely caught off 
guard too. 

Storm timetable:
http://www.thenassauguardian.com/news/59635 


Steve Thomas


  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bill Coleman 
  Sent: Friday, October 02, 2015 17:49
  Subject: Stus-List Darwins List


   

  Who in their right mind would take a Container Ship, of all things, into a 
known, sitting Cat 4  Hurricane?

   

  Container ship hit by Hurricane Joaquin lost, Coast Guard searching
  
http://weatherplus.blog.palmbeachpost.com/2015/10/02/container-ship-hit-by-hurricane-joaquin-lost-coast-guard-searching/

   

   

   

  Bill Coleman

  C&C 39 Erie, PA



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Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

That system is a great idea, but I think that many of us would prefer to build 
our own if choosing that sort of system. 
They charge over 4k Euros (6k C$) for the cheapest kit. 
Pretty sure I could source what I would need to construct something functional 
for less money than what they charge. 
With that said, and if you had to pay for a tunnel installation, it is price 
competitive with some of the other systems available. 
I just think that it should sell for less. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
  Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 10:19
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters


  Sure - if someone wants one, or even two, go for it. I just find every C&C I 
have had to dock or undock so far to be about the easiest single engine boats 
to handle. I get and out of my slip single-handed with little effort.

  If you do have to have one, this looks nice: 
http://www.hollandmarineparts.nl/jetthruster You could make it double as an 
emergency bilge pump and have fun squirting bystanders.

   

  Joe 

  Coquina

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
G Street via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:37 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Frederick G Street
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

   

  Edd just wants to be able to call out, "Helmsman: maneuvering thrusters to 
leave Spacedock".   :^)


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

   

On Sep 28, 2015, at 7:14 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Some people retire from sailing, or buy a trawler prematurely, because they 
eschewed equipping their boat with whatever was needed to make it less 
physically demanding to sail. Luddites be damned! There are plenty of sailors 
who will tell you that a GPS and RADAR are wastes of money, too. 

Bill Bina



On 9/27/2015 2:56 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:

  Ed:

   

  I sailed/lived aboard a 51 for many years.  Everyone thought we were 
crazy when we removed the bow thruster (it didn't work anyway).  I can say I 
never missed it.  They do add some drag - probably not as much as you would 
expect.  I would think a pod hanging down would be worse.  Nevertheless,I just 
don't see the need and I sail in the same area as you.  It sounds strange, but 
my experience has been the tighter the slip the easier it is to get into. There 
just isn't as much room to screw up!  Yes, there has been the rare occasion 
where it would have been helpful coming in.  Leaving a dock it serves no 
purpose as god invented spring lines.  To me, the complexity of the systems, to 
say nothing of the cost, just isn't justified.  I

   

  My opinion would be just say no.

   

  Of course, it's your money and you should spend it however you damn well 
want to.

   

  John

   



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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Most inverters sold now (I know, not all) are isolated from the ground, and 
should NOT have one side grounded, but the new GFCIs are not dependent on 
the existence of an earth ground. It is legal to install 3 pronged GFCI 
receptacles in older houses without separate ground wires where I live, 
because the GFCI works by detecting any difference in the current flowing in 
the 2 wires. There is no separate earth ground available in that situation.


The GFCI circuits might also be affected by the harmonic content of the 
"quasi" sinewave inverters, but I have not tried it. The waveform from these 
inverters is a rectangle, tuned to minimise the third harmonic. Not all 
loads like that sort of power, but everything I have tried so far seems to 
work ok.


Steve Thomas


- Original Message - 
From: "Syerdave--- via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "syerd...@gmail.com" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2015 12:17
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet


worked for Hubbell for 21 years  There is no standard specifying what 
constitutes marine grade, so, the difference could simply be the label. 
The GFCI, despite being a safety device, is built offshore to a price, 
driven that way by the residential construction market.  The marine 
variant might be upgraded in some basic ways (visible plating) or might 
not, and this will vary by manufacturer. Years ago, manufacturers 
built better stuff and did not focus so much on standardization and cost. 
To be fair, most customers are not willing to pay for better, when good 
enough will do.
GFCIs have provision to protect downstream devices, but they must be wired 
accordingly. The GFCI first, and the downstream receptacles connected to 
the purpose-specific terminals on that GFCI.   Note that this means that 
the cumulative ground leakage for the downstream portion are now "seen" by 
the GFCI, and "nuisance tripping" could be a result.

Are you worried about safety or compliance?
I think the biggest safety issue is not in the head but somewhere else, 
probably when working on the boat.  (how often do you use 110v appliances 
concurrent with the presence of standing water  in the head?  At home 
sure, but in the boat?  In two years I have never used the receptacle in 
the head. )
IMO to do this right, install a GFCI receptacle or module as far upstream 
as possible, but after the 15A branch circuit breaker (in the 33ii there 
are two circuits, port and starboard, I think.)   protecting as a priority 
the receptacles where you are most likely to be using 120v - fans, tools. 
.
One thing to check, and I don't know the answer, is whether or not you are 
protected on circuits energized by an inverter.   GFCIs don't or at least 
didn't always work without a real ground reference.   (Gensets as an 
example - years ago this created a great deal of confusion WRT workplace 
safety practices.)

Dave




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