[Elecraft] K3 DVR comes and goes?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hey y'all, I have an old K3 that we upgraded to K3S a few years back. It
also has a DVR unit in it. All firmware is current.

Today upon powerup the DVR didn't work - showed as not installed and
obviously didn't work.

I powered off the radio and back on again, and there was the DVR, working
again as usual.

I'm thinking the contacts may need cleaning on the DVR/pins - but also
wondering if there's other things that I should check. I'm taking the radio
on a dxpedition soon and want everything to work properly.

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] New antenna?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

That's what I was wondering...is it the AX1 or something different?

On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 8:08 PM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> You mean the AX1?   :)
>
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 18:54 Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>>
>> Stay tuned :)
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
>> > Jeff Kinzli N6GQ  wrote:
>> >
>> > What's this I read about an Elecraft portable antenna at Dayton?
>> >
>> > #curious.
>> __
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>
> --
> 72,
> Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
> PA Army MARS, Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer
> for Scouting
> Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
> FN20is
>
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[Elecraft] New antenna?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

What's this I read about an Elecraft portable antenna at Dayton?

#curious.

73 de N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Contest Settings

[Jeff Kinzli]

Tim,

You might also consider "riding the RF gain" route, depending on how
bad the pileups are.

Turn AGC off, turn up the RF gain, and modulate RF gain as needed to
discern signals.

Be careful though, in this mode AF gain is mostly unbounded, i.e.
you'll hurt your ears and/or headphones if a signal is really loud.

For me, I use that mode sometimes when signals are weak, it seems to
allow for better hearing of weak signals.

YMMV, 73 de N6GQ

On Sun, Mar 20, 2016 at 6:07 AM, a45wg  wrote:
> Fellow Hams,
> Having not Contested for over 5 years - I just had spent the 
> past 24 hours participating in the Russian DX Contest (CW), now I realise 
> that Contests are not everyone’s cup of tea so please no “Contests should be 
> banned”.
>
> But I would be interested in how other contesters set up their rigs
>
> This is what I have been doing -
>
> 0)  Narrow Filter enable (500 Hz)
> 1)  Very narrow Bandwidth at times even 10-20 (hz?) is too wide.
> 2)  Vary where I am listening up and down a little
> 3)  Disable PreAmp
>
> What other steps can I do to make my life (and the other stations I am 
> working easier - I forgot how many times I sent R7?? or NR ??)
>
> Attentate (Just thought of this)
> NR Settings ?
> Notch filter ?
>
> Appreciate any input - if you wan to PM me - I will put together the common 
> suggestions.
>
> Many thanks,
> Tim A45WG
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Re: [Elecraft] Is there a K4 on the horizon?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Seems to me that one viable possibility would be for Elecraft to build
a new box - one that encapsulates the existing K3, but has a new front
panel that's larger, with more knobs allowing each knob to have a
singular function. For those that use the K3 as their main home radio
- this would allow you to have larger knobs, spaced further out, and
have that big radio feel - while those of us that travel constantly
with our K3's can continue with the smaller footprint, which for me
works great even though I have huge hands.

Doing so would require re-engineering front panel, but probably not
much more than that? Since the front panel is just ribbon-cabled to
the rest of the radio. Seems like a relatively small engineering feat
for a big bang but maybe its only an incremental change in terms of
moving the needle and maybe that's not where Elecraft wants to focus.

Good topics for April 1st ;)

73 de N6GQ

On Wed, Apr 1, 2015 at 7:32 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
>
> On 2015-04-01 12:39 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>> I really don't see why People want a K4 as a whole new radio.
>
> There are many who would like to see a larger radio with more
> individual controls (direct band select, Split, separate control
> for Dual PB and APF, separate control for Diversity and Link,
> etc.) as well as a 48V PA for better transmit IMD.  The added
> controls and 48V/200w PA are not something that is likely in
> the current K3 form factor.
>
> 73,
>
>... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 2015-04-01 12:39 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>>
>> I really don't see why People want a K4 as a whole new radio.
>> A huge selling point for me was the modular and up-gradable approach of
>> the K3 (and the K-Line as a whole)
>> You can go every where from the Base radio (as a great radio all by
>> itself) up to the full blown K-Line fully loaded.
>>
>> I also had radios from "The Other Guys" and having to buy a whole new
>> radio to get new features really is a waste of money.
>>
>> As the Elecraft product line increases it allows me to add in new gear
>> that integrates well in both function and appearance
>> to my existing equipment so I don't wind up with the mishmash of shapes
>> and sises so common with "the other guys"
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 build/KPA3 update - can someone measure for me...?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Thanks, Dick, found the problem, mine is now settled around 4K. Much
appreciated...

Jeff

On Sun, Mar 1, 2015 at 10:35 AM, Dick Dickinson  wrote:
> I get about 3.6K across the input Anderson Power Poles of my early, but up
> to date K3/100.
>
>
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Dick - KA5KKT
>
>
>
> 
> --
>
>
>
> Hi All, getting prepped for ARRL DX next weekend and so I decided to
>
> do the KPA3 update on my old K3 (#476). It involves replacing some
>
> pins between the RF board and the KPA3 module to prevent melting.
>
>
>
> I did the update and it went reasonably well. The last check is to
>
> measure resistance across the 12V terminals to make sure its not a
>
> dead short. The documentation says it should be over 2000 ohms, but I
>
> measure open circuit. Can someone check for me what they see across
>
> 12V terminals on a regular working K3?
>
>
>
> This is probably a pretty stupid question but since I didn't build
>
> this K3 I'm not sure what to expect.
>
>
>
> Thanks much,
>
>
>
> Jeff N6GQ/YN2AA
>
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[Elecraft] K3 build/KPA3 update - can someone measure for me...?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi All, getting prepped for ARRL DX next weekend and so I decided to
do the KPA3 update on my old K3 (#476). It involves replacing some
pins between the RF board and the KPA3 module to prevent melting.

I did the update and it went reasonably well. The last check is to
measure resistance across the 12V terminals to make sure its not a
dead short. The documentation says it should be over 2000 ohms, but I
measure open circuit. Can someone check for me what they see across
12V terminals on a regular working K3?

This is probably a pretty stupid question but since I didn't build
this K3 I'm not sure what to expect.

Thanks much,

Jeff N6GQ/YN2AA
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[Elecraft] KX3+K3 in SO2R

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hello friends,

I'm curious who has tried an SO2R setup of K3 as primary, and KX3 as
secondary radios in a SO2R set up. If you did, did you find anything
out of the ordinary with respect to the KX3 being the secondary radio?
More prone to interference from the primary radio (or vise-versa)?

My guess is that it should be just fine, but if someone's already
walked in those shoes and worked through things I'd love to hear them.

My plan is to use the K3+Acom amp as primary, KX3+100w amp as
secondary, using the YCCC SO2R box as the controller. This will be for
a DXpedition for CQWW SSB in October.

Thanks all,

73 de N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KX3 Setup For Contesting?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Being an avid contester, and having used the KX3 in numerous contests
already (both stateside and as a DX station), I think it makes a great
contest radio.

One of the first things I'd suggest is considering trying it on CW rather
than SSB. If you don't know CW, this is a great time to learn, and I think
you'll find its a LOT easier to make QSOs on CW as opposed to SSB when
conditions are not excellent. On CW, with very modest antennas, I can work
stuff in the noise with my KX3 and 10w, but on SSB, they have to be strong
in most cases before I can make a QSO.

I'd also strongly recommend ditching the /QRP piece. When I'm running a
pileup, the last thing I want to hear is /QRP or /MOBILE - those are
irrelevant to the contest, and actually, IMHO, hamper your ability to make
the QSO. As previously stated, the idea is to make lots of QSOs fast, and
so to be efficient, you want to send what's relevant and necessary, not
extraneous stuff, like /QRP, /MOBILE, "please copy...", "thanks for the new
one", or any of that. For any DX station, the band is only open for a
finite amount of time, and if there's a pileup, ever extra word you or
someone else throws in is taking time away from other QSOs. That said, I'm
not trying to suggest that this is always the case, clearly there's times
when DX stations are calling CQ with no takers, and in those times clearly
the demand is much lower...

For antennas, as others have said, try to make them as efficient as
possible. This means full-size, resonant, and usually as high as possible.
Try to avoid shortened, compromise antennas, and try to avoid using the
antenna tuner if you can. If you can get some directionality that will help
too. Of course, if you are limited in $ or other factors, its hard to beat
a dipole 1/2 wavelength high or higher for bang for the buck.

The KX3 is a pretty easy radio to operate - not a lot of tweaking is needed
to make it functional - mic gain settings, compression settings, and
equalizer settings will help, and in those cases the archives are full of
suggestions, but try to minimize the lower bass frequencies with the
equalizer, as those are essentially wasting the small amount of power you
have.

Have fun though and put your time in, and you'll find your way!

73 de N6GQ, aka YN2AA, 9H3ZZ, SV5/N6GQ, etc., etc.

On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 4:42 AM, Aaron Melton  wrote:

> **
>
>
> [Cross-posting between KX3 Yahoo Group & Elecraft mailing list.]
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm sure at least a few of you read this email to see if this was a
> joke... :D
>
> I originally purchased a KX3 for portable ops, SOTA, etc. and it's been an
> awesome rig in that regard. However, I'd like to participate in a few DX
> contests from time to time and this is currently my only HF rig. I know
> that operating QRP means I'm getting clobbered more often than not by
> higher power stations, but is like to know if anyone else has any tricks
> they'd like to share?
>
> If you operate QRP (5 watts) during normal contests, what/how do you do?
>
> I have experimented with the mic gain and its currently set to 30 (which
> seems to provide the most power before detrimentally distorting my voice).
> I haven't touched this dial since week one.
>
> I've alternated adjusting the voice compression at times, but haven't had
> much opportunity to get feedback from another station on how well (or not)
> it might improve cutting through the noise.
>
> I've been told that taking some of the lows out of my voice (EQ?) might
> help as well?
>
> Finally, I've started appending "stroke QRP" to the end of my call when
> contacting other stations. It doesn't make it more likely that I'll be
> heard, but if heard I find I usually receive preferential treatment.
>
> Have you any radio settings or techniques that would help a new(er) KX3
> owner and wannabe contester?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron
> de KK4LOV
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Portable Antennas suggestions ?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Pretty hard to beat a few lengths of wire (one for a vertical section,
and a few for radials) hung straight off the BNC of the KX3. That way
there's no loss to coax, and you have minimal stuff to carry.

My whole kit (KX3#80, HPS1a, wire, paddle, etc., etc.) all fit in a
small LowePro Edit 140 camera bag, and is well-protected. Hard to make
it much smaller than that, I think.

It's been island hopping with me through the Mediterranean for the
past month with no problems.

YMMV,

73 de SV8/N6GQ

On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 6:38 PM, Ronald Nutter
 wrote:
> Put myself on the waiting list for a KX3.  Hope to have it in the
> August/September timeframe.
>
> In the meantime, I am starting to put together a ultra-portable kit that
> will allow me to operate from just about anywhere.
> Since I will be flying quite a bit at times, I am starting with a
> Pelican 1470 case to protect the KX3 and the other items needed for
> operation.
>
> Since I may be restricted at times to operating from a hotel room, I
> have been looking at a collapsible antenna such as the MFJ-1840T, etc
> for each of the bands I may want to work.  Since I hope to be able to
> purchase the auto-tuner option by the time my number comes up, I figured
> on throwing in a roll of wire for when I can operate outside.  Would
> like to see what other options those of you who already have KX3's have
> had good luck with.  Depending on conditions/where I will be operating
> from, I might switch antennas because I can if for no other reason.
>
> Havent decided on getting the Iambic Paddle or not.  Dont do a lot of
> operating on CW but might change that.
>
> Suggestions ?
>
> Ron
> KA4KYI
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] [OT] Account of DJ6SI's arrest and maltreatment in Greece for ham operation

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

For what it's worth, I'm in the Greek Islands now, and have been for the
past month. I was in SV5 when Baldur was arrested, and while on a different
island (Patmos) I understand the situation, and how things happened.

I'm currently in SV8, and am very close to Turkey. During the day, and at
night, Turkey is clearly within view only a few miles off the coast. For
this reason, I have suspended my operations on this island - even though it
is a large island. On the other islands, I was more active, but this one is
one that I'm not going to do any operating from.

We're on our way to 9H this weekend, and I'll be much more active from
there :)

My KX3 is in tow - and will be making Q's again soon :)

73 de SV8/N6GQ (aka 9H3ZZ)

On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 6:22 AM, Thomas Horsten  wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I was planning to go on holiday to Greece this autumn/fall and operate
> with my KX3 from an island hotel. But after reading shocking Baldur's story
> I have changed my mind. I'll find another holiday destination. I'm
> forwarding this report, from The Daily DX, with the permission of Bernie
> McClenny. Just in case anyone else has plans to go to Greece and operate, I
> would suggest you take precautions (e.g. by contacting the Greek
> authorities in advance, or choose another country to operate from).
>
> Bernie asked me to mention that a majority of the SV ops are outraged by
> this incident, and it should not reflect badly on the Greek Amateur Radio
> operators. I can only agree that Greek ham operators (and the Greek public
> in general) are among the friendliest people I've encountered. As for how
> it reflects on the Greek authorities, judge for yourself.
>
> 73, Thomas M0TRN
>
> *Source: [The Daily DX] Vol. 16 No. 114 - June 12, 2012. Copyright (C)
> Berline McClenny, used by permission.*
>
> __
>
> DJ6SI – Report on the arrest in Kos, Greece
>  By DJ6SI, Baldur Drobnica
>   Translated by DF3CB, Bernd Koch
> __
>
> I booked a holiday trip break of one week on the island of Kos in
> Greece in May this year. I took a HF station with me to give some
> DXers new band points or even a new country. I could install a G5RV
> with the permission of the hotel management.
>
> After three days, at 01 in the morning, my XYL DL6KCD and I were
> woken up by an attorney and five police officers in civilian clothes.
> My wife is suffering from Alzheimer and has three bypasses. I was
> accused of conducting radio communications without a Greek radio
> license. The second accusation was that I could also watch other
> frequencies with my transceiver, a FT-890AT. My objection was
> rejected that I operate legally on base of the CEPT regulations. The
> hotel manager printed the CEPT list which is available on the website
> of the DARC and handed the printout out to the attorney. The paper
> was ignored, folded and put into the pocket. My transceiver was
> confiscated together with the power supply and the headphones with
> the remark that it had to be checked by a specialist. They also tried
> to confiscate my notebook which I tried to defeat because the
> notebook was not related to the transceiver that had to be checked.
> Two mobile phones, cameras and the log book were also confiscated; we
> were handcuffed and taken to the police station. The handcuffs were
> so tight that they cut into my flesh and draw blood.
>
> I was taken to a hospital where the wound my on hand was treated. In
> absence of a prison cell, the police wanted to put me into a drunk
> tank but the attending physician declined that. So I had to spend
> four hours at the police station sitting on a chair. My hint that I
> had to see my un-oriented wife was rejected by saying that she is
> enclosed in the (hotel?) room and being closely guarded from outside.
> After long discussions I was then escorted by two police officers to
> visit my wife at the hotel, medicate and dress her. Personal care and
> showering, was rejected. Back at the police station a protocol was
> created.
>
> Then we were driven to the courthouse. It was now 11AM. I was
> photographed and fingerprinted in the courtyard of the courthouse.
> Then we waited again until 4PM under police protection, when I was
> presented to the attorney who explained me the charges in a two-
> minute talk: transmitting without permission, having a radio with
> frequencies other than intended for amateur radio operators and the
> hindrance in handing out my notebook.
>
> I was commissioned to the court for the next day at 12:00. I had to
> wait until 16:00 until a judge and an attorney came. The judge told
> me that he had no translator and appointed a new proceeding for the
> next day at 12:00. When I objected that we had to fly back the next
> day, he explained: “this is your problem”. Finished.
>
> I called the German 

[Elecraft] KX3 Kit #80 in SV5

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Greetings, I'm currently in SV5 (Patmos) for some much needed
vacationing. I brought my kit-KX3 #80 along for a maiden voyage. Being
WPX CW weekend, I went down to a nice north-facing beach, strung up a
~40' wire into a tree, with a few random length radials, and used a
cigarette lighter plug in my rental car. I brought my Macbook Pro and
used Rumped logger, with the USB cable. Keying is great. I played a
while on 40M and 20M and worked a good number of guys. Even on 40M
with the incredibly loud and close Euro sigs I had no problem
separating folks.

I got to the beach about Sunrise, and 20 and 40 were both hopping
pretty well. S9+ sigs from the states, and 20-40 over 9 sigs from all
over Europe. With crowded band conditions, I found that I had to pick
someone that was S8 or above for them to hear me with 10w.

It was a lot of fun, I only spent about an hour or so operating until
it got warm and I decided to go back to the hotel for breakfast. This
was around 0400z. Easily worked many Europeans, US/VE, and even 9K2
and A7. Tonight, around 2200 - z I'll get on again and work some
more guys from the hotel (using an inverted vertical hanging from the
hotel room deck).  That works quite well, I worked even the E40
expedition on 10M with 5w, one call. :) Our hotel is on a hillside
overlooking a nice saltwater bay a few wavelengths away :)

Hopefully I'll see a number of you tonight on 20/40M, best 73 from
SV5! After this we'll be off to a number of islands in SV8, then off
to 9H.

Jeff SV5/N6GQ, 9H3ZZ
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KX3 Kit #80 looking for QSOs

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Thanks, Don. Yes, just like the K3 set up. Got it going...

Cheers,

Jeff

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

>  Jeff,
>
> To set the mic gain correctly, use the ALC meter on the KX3 while
> operating into a dummy load.  Adjust your mic level for 6 to 7 bars on the
> ALC meter (and do not change it no matter what others on the air tell you.
>
> With that accomplished, try compression of 10% as indicated by the meters.
>
> Now you can make some contacts and adjust the compression and TX EQ to be
> suitable for the ears of the listeners.
>
> I will make a couple comments about the TX EQ settings before you ask "on
> the air" - I strongly recommend you set the first two TX EX bands to
> minimum. Those frequencies add nothing to the intelligibility, but do
> consume a great amount of power at the expense of higher frequencies that
> do provide greater intelligibility.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 5/6/2012 6:46 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>
>
>
> Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
> get familiar with the radio.
>
> I'm at 14044 now, and could jump up to SSB - I'd like to get the mic
> gain, etc set nicely, so on the air reports would be helpful.
>
> It was a blast to assemble - and even more fun to operate :)
>
> 73 de N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KX3 Kit #80 looking for QSOs

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

2 S/Ns? Not sure what you mean...

No real issues on assembly - except my huge fingers made the tiny parts
sometimes a challenge to put together.

The Elecraft crew was great in helping me, a joy to work with.

A blast to operate!

73 de N6GQ

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 3:50 PM, TJ Campie  wrote:

> **
>
>
> So now you have 2 SNs on your KX3? Confusing!
> Assume you didn't have any show stoppers either?  Looking good for 11th
> launch then!
>
>  73, W0EA
> TJ
> 
> QRP ARCI #14612
> CW Ops #953
> SKCC #4593T
> Elecraft KX3 SN?
> "Skill transcends power!"
>
>
>
> On May 6, 2012, at 5:46 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>
> Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
> get familiar with the radio.
>
> I'm at 14044 now, and could jump up to SSB - I'd like to get the mic
> gain, etc set nicely, so on the air reports would be helpful.
>
> It was a blast to assemble - and even more fun to operate :)
>
> 73 de N6GQ
>
>
> 
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KX3/
>
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>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
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[Elecraft] KX3 Kit #80 looking for QSOs

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hey all, KX3 (Kit) #80 is on the air. Looking for some QSOs to help me
get familiar with the radio.

I'm at 14044 now, and could jump up to SSB - I'd like to get the mic
gain, etc set nicely, so on the air reports would be helpful.

It was a blast to assemble - and even more fun to operate :)

73 de N6GQ
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[Elecraft] KPA500 kit

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I haven't seen it mentioned, but I'm wondering what the KPA500 kit
plan is? Is it similar to the K3 kit, where it's akin to assembling a
computer, where boards are put into an enclosure, or is it a solder
some parts type kit? I'm assuming the former given the nature of the
kit (having HV and big voltages floating around). I'm sure it's been
mentioned by Elecraft somewhere I just can't seem to find it anywhere.
Have there been any estimates on the number of hours expected to build
the kit and what's involved?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 questions

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Any idea when the assembly manual will be available? I'd like to get
an idea how much is involved in building versus ordering a
factory-assembled unit.

On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 11:31, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
 wrote:
> Yes - that is an error inthe preliminary manual. We will correct it ASAP.
> 73, Eric
>
>
> On 4/6/2011 10:52 AM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
>> On page 16 of the KPA500 manual, the K3 cable pinout doesn't seem to
>> include the AUXBUS pin. I assume that's an error in the manual?
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns itself on,won't turn off

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I will try this...thanks,

Jeff

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 00:57, mark crossland  wrote:
> j...@n6gq.com
>
> Jeff,  remove the  rs232 board and clean it gently with  water and toothbrush 
> . let dry and reinstall . that should get you back up and running
>
> Mark   W1VJ
> K3 # 427
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Ok Don, I'll take a looksy and see if anything is floating around in there.

73,

Jeff

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 17:12, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>  Jeff,
>
> Certainly you could try re-seating that board, but I would be more inclined
> to look for something on that board which could cause a short.  Re-seating
> will often correct an open circuit condition, but a short to ground is a
> different animal.  If you find any bits of conductive material floating
> around, that would be suspect.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
>> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi Joe, yes, I actually do have that mod installed (it was done by
Elecraft last time the radio was back to meet it's maker).

Thanks,

-J

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 17:08, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>
> Check the 12V sense mod:
>  http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/KPA3_12V_Sense_Modification_Rev_B.pdf
>
> Symptoms sound exactly like what you describe and I suspect your s/n
> is well before the modification was added to routine production.
>
> 73,
>
>   ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 3/9/2011 7:58 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
>> ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.
>>
>> Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
>> reseated? Any other ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 16:51, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>>
>>>  Jeff,
>>>
>>> It sounds like the Remote Power ON signal (on the ACC connector) is
>>> becoming
>>> active for some reason or another.  If anything external to the K3 or
>>> internal is pulling ACC pin 8 to ground, the behavior will be as you
>>> describe.  If you have a cable plugged into the ACC connector it should
>>> be
>>> checked for that condition.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
>>>> intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
>>>> the front panel power switch).
>>>>
>>>> I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
>>>> paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
>>>> anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
>>>> started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
>>>> up again.
>>>>
>>>> Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
>>>> like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
>>>> in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
>>>> the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
>>>> back on.
>>>>
>>>> I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
>>>> culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Jeff N6GQ
>>>>
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi Don, yes, I have checked this - there is nothing connected to the
ACC connector or the RS232 port when this occurs.

Perhaps the board that the ACC connector is attached to needs to be
reseated? Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Jeff

On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 16:51, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>  Jeff,
>
> It sounds like the Remote Power ON signal (on the ACC connector) is becoming
> active for some reason or another.  If anything external to the K3 or
> internal is pulling ACC pin 8 to ground, the behavior will be as you
> describe.  If you have a cable plugged into the ACC connector it should be
> checked for that condition.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2011 6:47 PM, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
>> intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
>> the front panel power switch).
>>
>> I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
>> paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
>> anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
>> started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
>> up again.
>>
>> Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
>> like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
>> in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
>> the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
>> back on.
>>
>> I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
>> culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jeff N6GQ
>>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 turns it self on, won't turn off

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi there, I have a K3 (s/n in the 400's with most upgrades done)
intermittantly turns it self on, and sometimes won't shut down (via
the front panel power switch).

I believe my PS is in good order, and nothing but antenna, PS and
paddle are connected to the back. It doesn't appear to be related to
anything external, and it's not dependable, just intermittant. It
started doing this a few months ago, then went away, and now started
up again.

Maybe one of the boards needs to be reseated? Anyone else seen issues
like this? For now, I'm just powering off the PS when the radio is not
in use, and when it won't shut off, I have to turn the PS off to shut
the radio off. If I turn the PS back on at that point, the radio comes
back on.

I have not yet tried another PS or battery to see if that's the
culprit but that will be my next step if this isn't a common problem.

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] For Sale: Elecraft K2/100 with KDSP2, KIO2, KNB2

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi there,

I have a newer K2/100 (5000's serial number) with KDSP2, KIO2 and
KNB2. I find that it sits on my desk and I don't use it, so I'm
looking to sell and invest in more antennas.

I built the K2, and it works great, but does have one small bug - the
TX output spikes sometimes but I have not determined why, probably a
cold solder joint somewhere? Not sure. It's relatively uncommon
though.

I'm open to reasonable offers. I don't know what it is worth.

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] FS: LP-Pan + EMU0202

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

For sale: factory built LP-Pan with EMU 0202 for K3, with all needed cables.

Best offer.

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] The K3 at airports

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I do it regularly, sometimes they want to look at it, sometimes they
don't care. On my last trip a few weeks ago (YN2AA) they didn't give
it a second look.

Jeff N6GQ

On 11/10/10, van fair  wrote:
> Does anyone have experience carrying a K3 and power supply through the TSA
> inspections  at USA airports.  What can I expect?? Thanks Van W4GIW
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with RTTY

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 18:10, Jim Brown  wrote:
>  Jeff,
>
> I strongly agree with Don. MMTTY integrates VERY nicely with both
> WriteLog and N1MM. I use N1MM. You're welcome to come up here and see it
> this weekend. I'm not taking it seriously, but I will get on and play a
> bit.

Jim and Don, thanks for the input. I think I got it working sort of,
enough to make a few QSOs.

Jim, I may take you up on that...I'll be in touch if I can make it up.

Thanks!

Jeff

> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On 9/24/2010 5:40 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>    Jeff,
>>
>> If you are not accustomed to RTTY (or other digital modes) operation, I
>> would encourage you to use a computer application to start out with.
>> Clicking on the waterfall display to decode signals is much easier than
>> tuning the signal to a spot which will allow good decoding in the K3 VFO
>> B area (or using K3 Utility Terminal - same thing).
>> Once you have developed a feel for the RTTY mode, then you can advance
>> to using the K3 Utility or the K3 VFO B area for decoding.
>>
>> If you insist on using the VFO B display or K3 Utility, set the AFSK-A
>> (or FSK-D) menu parameter to the baud rate of the station you are trying
>> to copy (it will usually be 45 bps), then use the dual passband to
>> reject unwanted signals - tune the K3 carefully using CWT so you see 3
>> bars on each side of the center marker.  You should then see good
>> decoded text.
>
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[Elecraft] Help with RTTY

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I've not done much in the way of RTTY but thought I'd get on for CQWW
this weekend and work a few guys with the built in data capability in
the K3.

Try as I might, I can't get it to decode anything correctly. I seem to
have lackluster results getting stuff to display on the VFOB area of
the screen with any kind of consistency and I just don't know what's
wrong.

Does anyone have a "RTTY with the K3 for dummies"? I don't really want
to go off and install any RTTY software, would just like to use the
built in K3 stuff to make a few QSOs.

Thanks, unicast to me is fine.

Jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 owners that have built a K2

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

My K2 #5945 holds a special place in my heart :) It was a blast to
build and still fun to use.

My K3 #476 has traveled a lot with me, and is my radio of choice.

I'd still like to do a KX1 one of these days...that's one neat little radio.

Jeff N6GQ

On Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 07:25, Gary D Krause  wrote:
> After seeing a recent post about building a K2, I'm wondering how many K3
> owners have actually built a K2?  It would seem that some kind of right of
> passage should be given to those people that have built a K2 or even a K1,
> before purchasing a K3.  Maybe a sticker that they can put on their K3 or a
> special certificate to hang on the wall?  Of course, I'm excluding those that
> can't build because, of physical dissability.  I'm just thinking of all the
> fun that they missed building a K2 and perhaps they would appreciate the K3
> even more.  Just trying to stir the pot. ;-)
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[Elecraft] KDVR3 with N1MM

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi there, I'm wondering if I could find someone that's currently using
the KDVR3 with N1MM - I have a few questions I'd like to bounce off
you, and it can be off-list, or on-list. Specifically, how seamless is
the integration with N1MM and what are the known issues (if any)?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] K144xv for K3 and noise figure

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi,

I was considering a K144XV for my K3, and noticing the noise figure
listed as "<2db", while the earlier transverters list NF at 0.8db. I'm
wondering how the two compare.

I also wonder if maybe in the future there might be a low-NF xvtr for
the K3? I like the integration idea, but I'm wondering how much of an
issue the seemingly higher NF would be for weak-signal work.

Thanks,

jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vs. Icom IC-7600

[Jeff Kinzli]

On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 07:13, Paul Christensen wrote:
>> Two weeks ago, in my friend's shack I compared K3,IC7700,IC7800(by ear
>> ONLY), since there are no major contest in that day, so I can't say
>> anything about "dynamic range " or something like that.
>> IMHO, ic7700's DSP is best, 7800 DSP also better than K3. [A/B compare
>> NR NB and DSP filter function].
>
> I also own all three ('7700/'7800/K3) and I've been comparing the three rigs
> for the past year.  Not one of them really stands out against the other when
> comparing the NR function in SSB, nor CW modes.  In my experience, the two
> radios with the best NR function are the Kenwood TS-480 (CW) and the Ten Tec
> Omni Six (SSB).
>
> On the TS-480, Kenwood developed a DSP CW peaking filter in the NR2 position
> that actually seems to extract CW out from under the noise.  Engaging that
> function has often made the difference between copy and no-copy.  I cannot
> say the same for any other radio.  Likewise, the Omni Six NR function
> somehow manages to peak the SSB audio passband when engaged and never did I
> hear an audio attenuating effect as I do with the '7700 and '7800 -- even
> under weak signal conditions.  The two Icoms seem particularly vulnerable to
> attenuation as the NR function is increased and I find their NR function to
> be nearly useless unless signal strength is strong.

Paul, I have noticed this same behavior with my K2+DSP, but I haven't
been able to duplicate on my K3 (maybe because the DSP parameters are
not as easily configurable). The ability to pull a signal out of the
noise with the K2+DSP is profound, but I profess I have not used a
TS480 either.

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's website down? I keep getting

[Jeff Kinzli]

It was deliberate, apparently in both cases...

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/09/BAP816VTE6.DTL&tsp=1

On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 13:13, Jack Brindle  wrote:
> The word here in Silicon Valley is that Verizon had a major fiber cable 
> break. It has taken out pretty much all their communications in the south 
> valley down into Monterrey. This includes telphone, cell phones, internets, 
> and their other communications. No word on when it will be repaired. 
> Meanwhile, the other half of the valley, on ATT, continues right along. We 
> got lucky this time, next time it could be us...
>
> Jack Brindle, W6FB
>
> -Original Message-
>>From: Ken Kopp 
>>Sent: Apr 9, 2009 11:13 AM
>>To: AD6XY , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's website down? I keep getting "network      
>> timeout"
>>
>>I have no idea of the cause, of course  but as a retired utility
>>communications tech I'll tell you that anything is possible and
>>sooner-or-later will happen.  A utility simply can't cover every
>>possible uh-oh.
>>
>>My utility ... like most ... uses an extensive microwave system
>>for control of the largest utility in the US (In square miles served)
>>and there are extensive "backups and alternatives.  This being
>>said, an earthquake that would disturb rowers and dish alignment
>>would be a major disaster.  Ditto for a large forest fire.  The dense
>>smoke can cause HV lines to flash over, causing them to "trip out",
>>and can cause very wide-spread outages.
>>
>>Lots can and does happen.
>>
>>73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's website down? I keep getting "network timeout"

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I'm in Santa Cruz, and things like telephones (landlines), cell
phones, and DSL is down for a lot of people. Even 911 service (!).

Sigh. So much for redundancy on the part of the backbone providers, eh?

Jeff N6GQ

On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 11:03, AD6XY  wrote:
>
> It has been down all day for us. I am surprised such a failure is allowed - 
> someone will be in deep trouble.
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft%27s-website-down--I-keep-getting-%22network-timeout%22-tp2612190p2612594.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 SWR readings seem generous

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Mike, I see the same thing. My Autek says my antenna is 2.5:1, the K3
(#476) says 1.2:1 at the same frequency (numbers mentioned were on
40M).

My Palstar SWR meter pretty much agrees with the Autek.

-Jeff N6GQ

On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 17:47, Mike Scott  wrote:
> I have been working on antennas today and have a puzzle. I am finding that
> the K3 SWR indications are unbelievable generous.
>
> With my 40M inverted V fed with RG8X (50 ohm) coax I see that the K3 seems
> generous in the SWR indication on tune with ATU bypassed. I have noticed a
> slight change in SWR with K3 power setting so the following was taken with
> K3 tune power set to 100 watts. If I set it to 10 watts the discrepancy is
> greater...
>  SWR SWR SWR
> Freq. K3  VA1 Daiwa
> 7.00 MHz 1.3  1.922.0
> 7.05 MHz 1.2  1.921.9
> 7.1 MHz  1.2  1.981.95
> 7.15 MHz 1.3  2.262.1
> 7.2 MHz  1.9  2.602.3
> 7.25 MHz 1.5  2.882.6
> 7.3 MHz  1.6  3.322.7
>
> The Daiwa is the CN-101L cross needle meter. The VA1 is the Autek Rx Vector
> antenna analyzer.  The VA1 does not have a tuned input so it is possible
> that it can be fooled by local broadcast stations. I don't suspect this
> issue here as there aren't any close by broadcast stations that I am aware
> of. The Daiwa and the VA1 tend to agree pretty well anyway. The K3
> measurements are the outliers. This antenna on a "Tenna Dipper" shows
> minimal SWR at 7.040 MHz, just where I tuned it a few years ago. The LED
> does not extinguish indicating higher than 1:1 SWR at the minimum. If you
> look at the numbers, I guess I don't believe the K3, Do you think my antenna
> is below 1.6 to 1 across the entire 40M band?
>
>
> So now on to 20M dipole fed with RG58 (50 Ohm Coax)...
> The Tenna Dipper fully extinguishes at 13.805 MHz indicating that my antenna
> is bit too long but is close to 1:1 at that frequency.
>
> FreqK3 VA1 Daiwa
> 13.81   -- 1.12--
> 14.0 MHz1.11.241.31
> 14.1 MHz1.11.301.70
> 14.2 MHz1.11.551.85
> 14.3 MHz1.21.691.85
>
> RG58 may have some losses on this band so perhaps all of the SWR indications
> are generous, some more than others. The dipole is a low one and probably
> isn't 72 ohms at the feed point.
>
> Mike Scott - AE6WA
> Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
> K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Two K3s as Carry-on Luggage

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 17:58, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
 wrote:
> Ed W0YK wrote:
>>
>>  Most of the X-ray ops ID a K3 as a slide projector, which is
>> fine with me.
>>
>> Ed - P49X (W0YK)
>>
>>
>
> One thoroughly inspected my KX1 and K2 at SFO, then as he was packing it
> back up, said, "Good DX."

I've taken my K3 as carry-on through numerous airports, without fail,
it always gets looked at, swabbed, and then they let me go...I guess I
have the thug look or something.

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and recording SSB

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Nick and others, thanks for the replies and information.

Sounds like I have some options, and I should be able to get things
working reasonably well.

See you all in the pileups.

Jeff N6GQ (op @ KH6LC)

On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 03:03, Nick Lekic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Jeff
>
> There are many programs which will allow you to record the audio, but the
> problem
> starts when the time comes to find some particular QSOs in the pile of
> recorded files.
>
> Writelog was perfect for this purpose but I no longer use it for different
> reasons.
>
> I settled with Recall Pro ( http://www.sagebrush.com/recpro.htm )which is
> not as flexible compared with
> Writelog but it does the job.
>
> The program can split the recording after each hour giving you, say, 48
> files per entire contest.  Mine is configured
> to auto name each file by inserting a contest name, the hour and minute.
> Eg. ww2007cw_1000.mp3 for recording
> segment beginning at 10:00GMT.
>
> Depending on MP3 compression level used, each file will be somewhere between
> 10Mb and 15Mb in size.
>
> Since the time stamps are recorded you can later open a selected MP3 file
> and search for a specific point in time (in seconds)
> by moving the playback slider to desired position.
>
> Writelog was unbeatable for this feature.  You could just browse through
> your log, right-click on the given QSO and select 'play this qso'.
> I wish other contest logging programs could do that.
>
> 73,  Nick
> ve3ey
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message 
> From: Jeff Kinzli N6GQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 11:51:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and recording SSB
>
> Thanks guys...I have Audacity, and that's what I was thinking of using
> unless someone had a better idea.
>
> I'm still wondering if there's a way to get the monitor audio out the
> line-out output from the rear. It would be there out the headphone
> jack but as K8DD pointed out, that is going to be controlled by the AF
> Gain, which isn't optimal.
>
> Jeff N6GQ
>
> On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 19:15, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> For recording software, I suggest Total Recorder (www.highcriteria.com)
>> for
>> recording ease.  It is not free, but is budget priced and does the task
>> well.
>>
>> If you are looking for something free, I suggest you look at Audacity from
>> www.sourceforge.net - it is a great audio editor and is open source and
>> multi-platform.
>>
>> I record with Total Recorder and edit with Audacity myself.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Folks,
>>>
>>> I'm planning a serious effort for CQWW SSB in October and would like
>>> to record the entire contest digitally to my laptop (not the logging
>>> computer, a different one). I'd like to also include in the recording
>>> the monitor audio on XMIT, is this possible?
>>>
>>> If anyone has had any great success with any particular computer
>>> recording software, I'd love to hear about that, too. My plan is to
>>> just run the LINE-OUT from the K3 to my MIC-IN on my laptop, and
>>> adjust MIC levels until I have something that doesn't distort. Any
>>> words of wisdom or success stories are welcome...
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Jeff N6GQ
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>>>
>>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database:
>>> 270.6.3/1613 - Release Date: 8/15/2008 5:58 AM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and recording SSB

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Thanks guys...I have Audacity, and that's what I was thinking of using
unless someone had a better idea.

I'm still wondering if there's a way to get the monitor audio out the
line-out output from the rear. It would be there out the headphone
jack but as K8DD pointed out, that is going to be controlled by the AF
Gain, which isn't optimal.

Jeff N6GQ

On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 19:15, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> For recording software, I suggest Total Recorder (www.highcriteria.com) for
> recording ease.  It is not free, but is budget priced and does the task
> well.
>
> If you are looking for something free, I suggest you look at Audacity from
> www.sourceforge.net - it is a great audio editor and is open source and
> multi-platform.
>
> I record with Total Recorder and edit with Audacity myself.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>>
>> Hey Folks,
>>
>> I'm planning a serious effort for CQWW SSB in October and would like
>> to record the entire contest digitally to my laptop (not the logging
>> computer, a different one). I'd like to also include in the recording
>> the monitor audio on XMIT, is this possible?
>>
>> If anyone has had any great success with any particular computer
>> recording software, I'd love to hear about that, too. My plan is to
>> just run the LINE-OUT from the K3 to my MIC-IN on my laptop, and
>> adjust MIC levels until I have something that doesn't distort. Any
>> words of wisdom or success stories are welcome...
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Jeff N6GQ
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>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database:
>> 270.6.3/1613 - Release Date: 8/15/2008 5:58 AM
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 and recording SSB

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hey Folks,

I'm planning a serious effort for CQWW SSB in October and would like
to record the entire contest digitally to my laptop (not the logging
computer, a different one). I'd like to also include in the recording
the monitor audio on XMIT, is this possible?

If anyone has had any great success with any particular computer
recording software, I'd love to hear about that, too. My plan is to
just run the LINE-OUT from the K3 to my MIC-IN on my laptop, and
adjust MIC levels until I have something that doesn't distort. Any
words of wisdom or success stories are welcome...

Thanks!

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] AFX operation

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

John, that sounds like what I have experienced with AFX:BIN. Perhaps
we need to use the stereo output on the rear of the K3 for the real
effect.

AFX:DELAY5, on the other hand, does seem to lay out signals in a
virtualized manner, spatially separated in front of the listener. In
my experience, however, this "effect" takes time to materialze, for
me, it was a number of hours in the seat before it happened. Don't get
me wrong, AFX:DELAY5 is very comfortable to listen to, but the
"virtual spatialization" seemed to take a while to happen (for me,
anyway).

I wonder what other people experience in terms of time before they
notice the spatial separation?

Jeff N6GQ

On Mon, Jun 23, 2008 at 3:04 PM, John H Gibson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have recently begun experimenting with my K3's AFX feature. My understanding
> is that AFX is supposed to spread cw signals across a virtual listening space 
> in
> front of the operator (distributed according to pitch?). My experience, 
> listening
> with stereo headphones and with AFX on, is that all of the sound seems to come
> from one side and slightly to the rear. With AFX off I hear a balanced sound 
> from
> the headphones that seems to be in the center of my head.
>
> This is not what I expected. What am I doing wrong?
>
> 73,
> john, no8v
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Re: [Elecraft] Watsonville Fire

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I live nearby (in Santa Cruz), from what I have heard, the fire is
fairly close to Elecraft HQ, but on the other side of the freeway
(Elecraft is on the ocean side of the freeway)...but I haven't heard
about people's homes, I hope and pray everyone is ok.

Jeff N6GQ

On Sat, Jun 21, 2008 at 9:35 AM,  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I hope that none of the Elecrafters have been adversely
> affected by the Watsonville fire!
>
> Doug
> W6JD
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Re: [Elecraft] kx1 on airlines

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I've traveled with my K3 and had it in my carryon luggage, they never
even asked what it was.

Now, my Begali paddle, that was another story. It's got a Palladium
base and apparently the xray can't see through it or something.
Anyhow, it took 3 agents to finally figure that one out and approve
it. :)

-Jeff N6GQ

On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 12:48 PM, Blachura <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  Hello Folks,
>  Going on a trip and was wondering what kind of hassle I would get if I
>  packed my KX1 in my baggage. Would it look like a "bomb"? Was thinking of
>  putting a copy of my amatuer ticket on the box. But I bet no one there knows
>  what a ham radio operator is. Is it worth the trouble?
>
>  Don...w2xb
>  --
>  View this message in context: 
> http://www.nabble.com/kx1-on-airlines-tp16825633p16825633.html
>  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: foot switch - why?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

IMHO, the real reason for a foot switch is timing. When running high
rates in a phone contest, you can't set the VOX delay and hang time
well enough to drop the PTT soon enough without chopping up in the
middle of speaking (or yelling, as it were).

With a foot switch, I can key, do the exchange, and drop the PTT
exactly as fast as I need to without relay switching, cut outs, etc..
If I tried to do it via VOX, the hangtime at the end would be wasting
time as well, not to mention making copy more difficult on the other
end, and shortening the life of amplifier relays, etc..

I think this is the case regardless of VOX implementation, the K3 has
nice VOX and all, but I still much prefer a foot switch for SSB
contesting.

For casual SSB ragchewing, VOX is just fine though.

-Jeff N6GQ

On Fri, Mar 21, 2008 at 4:52 PM, Jim Cox <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If the vox is set properly you dont have the problem of noises keying it.
>  Set it so only your voice will key when an inch or so from the mic.  Most
>  people have it so sensitive that a voice in the next room will key the vox,
>  so it does pick up kids in the next room.
>  Jim K4JAF
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Jim Wiley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
>  Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 6:30 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: foot switch - why?
>
>
>  > Well. I  can think of a few reasons:
>  >
>  > Keeps the family dog from becoming a radio personality when the mail
>  > carrier or some other delivery person comes up to the door
>  >
>  >
>  > I like the positive control  - a foot switch lets me make sure the PTT is
>  > closed when I want the transmitter on, and open when I want the
>  > transmitter to be off//
>  >
>  >
>  > VOX sometimes activates, or fails to activate, at inopportune times - and
>  > you have to keep fiddling with it
>  >
>  >
>  > A foot switch is a lot easier to use, in my opinion, than a microphone
>  > mounted switch or "press bar"
>  >
>  > I could probably think of a few others, but I'll let others take over now.
>  >
>  > 73
>  >
>  >
>  > _ Jim,  KL7CC
>  >
>  > Registered Fuddy-Duddy
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
>  >>
>  >> Which begs the question...why do folks use a foot switch from home if
>  >> they are the only one in the room?  I use vox.
>  >>
>  >>
>  >>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

The assembled K3's come with an assembled power cable, you just need
to finish the battery/power supply side.

Jeff

On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Darwin, Keith
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
>  on the wire to make the power cable.
>
>  Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
>  power cables?
>
>  - Keith N1AS -
>  - K2 5411.ssb.100 -
>  - K3 Wave 3 (soon) -
>
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY 4 hour contest this weekend - K3 owners...let's have some fun!

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I might give it a whirl if I can figure out the settings on the K3 to
make it work.

I've never made an RTTY QSO but hey, it might be fun :)

-Jeff N6GQ
K3 #476

On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 5:02 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Please see for Ed's announcement:
>  http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/cq-contest/2008-March/078727.html
>
>  and, for the full rules, see:
>  http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php
>
>  I have no love for RTTY contesting, but this one is only 4 hours max.
>  The reason I am posting this here is that there is also a TEAM
>  competition (does not have to be a "serious" team).
>  I thought that it might be FUN the launch a team effort of K3's using
>  the CW paddle in to RTTY output method only.
>
>  [snip]
>  Team Competition: Team competition is limited to a maximum of 10
>  operators as a single entry unit. Groups having more than ten team
>  members may submit more than one team entry. To qualify as a team
>  entry, the team registration form on the NCJ web site must be
>  completed before the contest starts. Use the following link:
>  [end ship]
>
>  RTTY Team Registration: http://www.ncjweb.com/rttysprintteamreg.php
>
>  Soanyone (North America) interested in a K3/cw paddle input team?
>  If you register (above link), please let me know!
>  I'll suggest the TEAM NAME = "K3 and a cw paddle"
>
>  Remember...this will be "for fun" so put in as much or as little time
>  as you wish.
>
>  And don't forget...to turn OFF the idle quickly, the last thing you
>  send (using CW) is IM (dit dit dah dah - all together - like the
>  number 2, but missing the last dash).
>
>  de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 first impressions from ARRL DX SSB (long)

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 9:37 PM, Ed Muns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I hope this is useful to some, I'd love to talk to others
>  > that have experienced the spatial characteristic of the AFX
>  > mode, or hear Elecraft's input on how that was done.
>
>  Most people have found AFX to be positive.  Many contesters leave it on all
>  the time and miss it when they put one radio in each ear with SO2R.
>  However, there is a range of preferences for which setting is "best", i.e.,
>  pseudo-stereo delay 1-5 or binaural.  As I recall, the majority of people
>  settle on one of the pseudo-stereo delay 3, 4 or 5.  Also, the reported
>  effect is very different across users.  One person reports dizziness and
>  can't use it.  Others report a specific 3-D spatial relationship between
>  signal in the pass band.  Still others can't describe what it is like, but
>  are outspoken that it is "better" for picking signals out of noise.
>
>  I think your experience and description falls right into the range of
>  experiences the rest of us are having, but for each it is unique.

Pfew! As I was describing that to some of the other hams on the
island,  I started to think that I must sound like the sleep
deprivation must be taking a toll on my sanity, but I'm glad to hear
that it's somewhat "normal".

>  P.S.  Apologies for saying "Hi, Lloyd" every time we worked this weekend.  I
>  forgot you were guest-opting there.

No problem, Ed, you're always loud out there, as is K6XX, who I think
is near you. You guys have a great location.

73,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] K3 first impressions from ARRL DX SSB (long)

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

First off, this is a LONG email, so be warned :)
 
I picked up K3 #476 in Aptos the weekend before the contest, then
hopped on a plane to do the ARRL DX SSB contest from KH6LC. I thought
others might be interested in first impressions from a contester that
had not used a K3 before last week. There is also one quality that
became apparent with the K3 that I've never seen in another radio
before and I wonder if others have noticed it...more on that in a bit.

I arrived in KH6 Wednesday evening, and had a nice dinner with Lloyd,
KH6LC, in Hilo. On Thursday, it was my job to get the station all
prepped for the contest. I put up a 2 element yagi for 80M, got the K3
put into the operating position, connected it up with the amp and
computers, and started making QSOs on 20M and trying to get the audio
and speech processor optimized. After a few emails with k3support, and
on-air reports and tweaking, I had the audio pretty well optimized,
and many ensuing QSOs commented on the quality of the audio. For what
it's worth, I used a Heil Proset with HC-4 element, and had mic gain
at about 25-30, Compression at 10-12, and used the TX EQ to drop the
two lowest bands a few dB, and up'd the center band by a few dB. This
seemed to be the best setting for punch, understandability, and
comfort on the ears according to on-air reports. I also had a few
local hams check off to the side of my signal and they said the signal
was clean and narrow, so that's good.

Things that immediately stand out with the K3:

- Layout of controls is awesome. For a contester, all the things I
need to get to are quickly and easily accessible. Hats off to the
ergonomic engineering that Elecraft did!

- The K3 receiver really is as good as everyone says it is. I didn't
use the preamp in the contest, and found that I really like that mode
(no preamp) Weak signals "floated" in front of me, and just waited for
me to pull them out. I'll talk more about this in a bit.

- I watched temperature of the PA in the K3 as well as the other FP
temp and it stayed pretty solid, never got really that warm.

- It's light! I packed the K3, my clothes and all my needs for a week
in 1 carryon bag.

- It handles very strong, nearby signals with ease. Big S9+ signals
within a few KC's is no problem, it's like they're not even there.

Unfortunately, about half way through the weekend the amplifier that I
was using developed a problem and I decided to punt and move to the
other operating position - but in the heat of the contest I didn't
feel I could afford the time to move the K3 into position, so I only
got 24 hours of the contest in with the K3. None the less, I did find that
in this time, I was able to "mind meld" with the K3 and found a very
interesting quality that I eluded to above, that I've not seen or
heard before in other radios.

I had AFX set to delay 5, and with the Heil proset for headphones,
after a while I found that the spatial representation of signals
started to become 3 dimensional. It was as if signals were spatially
separated in an area around my head rather than just "in my ears". The
soundstage (as it's referred to in audiophile circles) was big and
weak signals seem to almost "float" out in space and take on an almost
tangible quality to them. I know what some of you must be thinking
right now, "Oh man, I want what this guy is smoking!" but really, it
does become pronounced after using the radio for a while.

I read about the increased spatial characteristic of AFX, but what I'm
talking about only becomes apparent after a good number of hours in
the chair, and I'm not convinced one would notice it if you sat down,
operated for 2 hours, took a break, sat down, etc. but with 10-12
hours of constant operating, it started to become quite pronounced.

First, I wonder if others have noticed this, and second, I wonder if
this was something that Elecraft engineering thought of, or if it's
just a by-product of design that is a nice bonus. Either way, I've
never heard anything like this on other rigs (Orion, FT1000's, etc.).
It's very cool and actually seems to enhance the ability to pull weak
signals out.

On the other hand, the Binaural mode seems like (at least in my setup)
to have noise in one ear, and signals in the other. It's separated and
pronounced, and I didn't really care for it, I much prefer Delay 5 in
AFX mode.

I had a bit of a hard time getting used to VFO A/B when operating
split on 40M. It wasn't as intuitive to me as other VFO setups, but
after a while I got used to it and it wasn't an issue.

So I'm very pleased with the first outing with the K3. It delivered on
what I was hoping. I just wish propagation would have been better,
this was one of the worst contests I've ever done in terms of
propagation, but I guess the good thing is that everyone is faced with
the same playing field. My score was significantly below my goal
numbers, but when conditions are poor, all bets are off, and I think a
lot of casual contesters probably either threw i

[Elecraft] K3 #476 on the air

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I stopped by Elecraft HQ today and picked up K3 #476, assembled, with
KXV3, and a 2.1k, 500hz and 200hz filters.

The rig is beautiful and sounds great, and will get a 'trial-by-fire'
next weekend as I break it in - I'll be out at KH6LC for ARRL DX SSB,
single op, all bands.

See you all in the contest,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] FT1000-like VFO behavior on the K3

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

On the FT1000, you can have VFO A in your left ear, and VFO B in your
right ear, and vary the amplitude, or weight, of both with a knob
(they call it "RF Mix"). This is very nice for operating split on 40M,
for example, as a DX station, transmitting around 7075 and listening
in the US phone band, as well as on the TX frequency. You can hear
both frequencies at the same time, and have, for example, your TX
frequency "louder" than your receive frequency.

I believe the K3 second receiver is required to hear both VFOs at the
same time, but is that variable amplitude between VFOs possible with
the K3?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
(taking delivery of my K3 this week, I hope!)
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[Elecraft] K3 SSB filters

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I've been reading the FAQ and the list archives trying to find out
what SSB filters I could benefit from in my K3, which is due to come
any day now! :) I've read some references that seem to suggest the 1.0
filter for SSB might be a bit on the narrow side.

I'm a 95% cw op, so I got the 500 and 250 filters for CW, but I'll be
taking the K3 to KH6 for the ARRL DX SSB contest, and since I'm not
much of a phone op, I'm looking for feedback from other SSB contesters
on what filters they've had success with in the K3. I don't yet have
the K3 so I'm not able to try the stock filter myself to make that
judgement...

My original plan was to just use the 2.7 stock filter, but now that
I'm thinking about it, I'm wondering if I should get the 2.1 also? Not
sure if there's enough difference to warrant that, or if it makes a
good deal of difference.  How suitable is the 2.7 filter for ssb
contesting?

Suggestions? Thanks,

-Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: best source of latest propagation news?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

W6ELProp is *fantastic* for computing MUF, signal levels and
probability of an opening to a given location.

Right before a contest is a great time to print out W6ELProp forecasts
for each area (Europe, JA, VK/ZL, etc.) so you can have a good idea
when and where to be.

http://www.qsl.net/w6elprop/

One of my favorites - but I also like VOAProp like everyone else as well.

-Jeff N6GQ

On Jan 30, 2008 5:42 PM, Converse, Robert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> To help decide where to direct signals from my shiny new K3, can anyone
> suggest a good web source for propagation news and forecasts?
>
> 73,
> Bob, WO3E
>
>
>
>
> This e-mail message is intended only for individual(s) to whom it is 
> addressed and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, 
> proprietary, or otherwise exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you 
> believe you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by 
> return e-mail and delete it from your mailbox. Thank you.
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[Elecraft] WTB: 2M transverter and/or KX-1

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hey all,

While I'm awaiting my K3 delivery, I'm feeling the need to play with more gear.

I'm on the lookout for either an Elecraft 2M transverter, or a KX1. If
you have either one of these that you're looking to sell, whether it's
still in kit form, built or partially built, please contact me
off-reflector.

Thanks!

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] 5.6 Earthquake very close to San Jose

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Yes, it was felt here in Santa Cruz pretty good (which is about 5
miles from Elecraft HQ).

No damage though, all is well AFAIK.

Jeff N6GQ

On 10/30/07, Kevin Rock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 5.6 is a walk in the park for you folks in California but here in Oregon we 
> notice these things :)
>
> Stay safe,
>Kevin.  KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] K3 Second run

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Is it too early to ask about the likelihood of the 2nd run of K3's
shipping on the 19th? :)

I'm eager because I'd like to take it to KH6 for CQWW CW which falls
on the following weekend (of course, I could pick it up from Aptos,
since I live in Santa Cruz) :)

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] CW: Best low cost iambic key?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I recently picked up a Begali Simplex. I absolutely love that key.

http://www.i2rtf.com/html/simplex.html

Cost-wise, it's hard to beat, and it's the smoothest key I've ever used.

It's also very nice to look at...

Jeff N6GQ

On 10/15/07, Rob Lundahl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Any recommendations for a low cost Iambic cw key?
>
> NV7F
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Re: [Elecraft] Best band for low cost DXing?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

While it's true that 20M is more competitive than other bands, it's
also true that 20M will allow you to have more of a DX window for more
hours of the day/night, and there's a better chance of finding DX on
20M than any other band, IMHO.

Just looking at QSO totals for most expeditions, QSO totals are almost
highest on 20M. In fact, most expeditions have 20M as the one station
that's in operation almost 24x7. While conditions may not always allow
you to hear/work them 24x7, I think you've got a much bigger window
and chance on 20M than any other band.

For 20M, a small 3L yagi at 30 feet would do well, or a pair of phased
verticals, or any number of other options would work well there.

I'd put 40M as a close second...if you've got extra class CW
privileges. Many folks worked the 3B7C expedition on 40M with minimal
gear, and they were LOUD on 40M even on less-than-optimal paths/times.

Best of luck, see you in the pileups,

Jeff N6GQ
K2/100 S/N 05945

On 9/28/07, Darwin, Keith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> -Original Message-
> I too would like to know why 20M wasn't considered by the OP.
> 
>
> I left 20 off the list because of the level of competition.  20 Is a
> GREAT band for DX and everyone knows it.  All the serious DXers are on
> that band with their big systems.  It is often tough for the little guy
> to compete, esp. on SSB.
>
> There is also some question as to whether or not my friend can get a
> horizontal antenna more than about 20 feet off the ground.
>
>
> - Keith N1AS -
> - K2 5411.ssb.100 -
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs K3 audio

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

My K2 (#5945) has tons of audio, both in the headphones as well as in
the speaker. My volume knob never gets above about 1/4-1/3 scale.

Jeff N6GQ

On 6/23/07, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>From the posts I've read in the past there would seem to
be large differences in the amount of audio delivered by
a K2.

Perhaps those of you who service them or in some other
way have exposure to multiple K2's can comment.

Mine's speaker level ia completely adequate and can be
turned up far beyond "comfortable" ... for me, anyway.

Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] CQWW DX Teams

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Sounds fun, I might be in for that.

If my K3 is delivered in time, I'll be taking it with me to KH6 for WW
CW and possibly SSB too. Otherwise, I'll take my K2 and we're going to
try it (with DSP) for the 160M station. I'll be at a station on the
big island.

Jeff N6GQ

On 6/13/07, J F <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Would anyone be interested in forming 5 person teams
for the CQWWDX events this Fall?

As I recall, the 2006 rules allow you to form teams
consisting of folks from anywhere (ARRL has geographic
restrictions). Your score still counts towards your
contest club's total, if you belong to one.

It might be fun to have a little friendly competition
between Elecrafters... Actually, there is a bit of
that already.

73,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Thanks Don, I'll begin looking...

Jeff

On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

I was really asking if the power jumped to 160 watts regardless of the
setting of the power control so I could better suggest where the problem
might be - apparently it does not go to 160 watts if you set the power
lower.

That behavior is not normal, and right now I would strongly suspect that
there is a bad solder connection in the KPA100 wattmeter section or in
the VRFDET signal path back to the K2 microprocessor.  Do the trimmer
pots R26 and R27 look OK?  I have found some that were damaged when
soldering the transformers cores in the PA - a damaged trimmer could
have an intermittent contact at the wiper and cause the results you are
seeing.  Check the entire path for FWD power indication from the KPA100
wattmeter to the VRFDET signal output (look at the schematic to identify
the components - and don't forget about the scaling resistors and the
scaling switches Q10 and Q11).  Since this is an intermittent condition,
it will be difficult to know when it is fixed - that is what makes
intermittents so hard to deal with - try tapping on things to try to
induce a failure.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Don, thanks.
>
> I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the
> upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic.
>
> When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until
> I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the
> power knob.
>
> I spend a lot of time on 40M, so that's where I usually see the
> problem. I do believe it happens on other bands though.
>
> If an occasional jump to 150W is ok, then I won't worry about it. I
> can leave the power knob lower so that the maximum power reached is
> less than 130W on those transients.
>
> 73,
>
> Jeff
>
> On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power
>> to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps
>> from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my
>> first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation.
>>
>> How long does the power stay at 160 watts?  Is this on 40 meters, or
>> does it occur on all bands?  What level is your KPA100?  If it has RFC10
>> installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a
>> red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed
>> to combat a parasitic on 40 meters.  In your case, I would recommend the
>> KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the
>> possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> > Thanks Don and others for the answers.
>> >
>> > In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be
>> > fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I
>> > thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are
>> > we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100
>> > gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation
>> > issue, as I don't see high SWRs.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Jeff
>> >
>> > On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >> Jeff,
>> >>
>> >> That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in
>> TUNE for
>> >> a period of time.  It is mostly the result of heating in the PA
>> >> transistors.  In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is
>> not a
>> >> constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be
>> >> present.
>> >>
>> >> Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant
>> length of
>> >> time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle.  OK
>> for
>> >> short bursts, but not good for longer periods.  The base K2 shoud be
>> >> limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and
>> to 35
>> >> watts or less with the KPA100.
>> >>
>> >> 73,
>> >> Don W3FPR
>> >>
>> >> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> >> > Hi Don,
>> >> >
>> >> > Thanks for the replies.
>> >> >
>> >> > To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load.
>> >> >
>> >> > I set the base K2 (without

Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Don, thanks.

I do have a recently-made KPA100 (~3 months) and have installed the
upgraded C31 to combat the parasitic.

When in QSO, I see the power jump up, and it seems to stay there until
I enter a TUNE operation or manually drop the power level via the
power knob.

I spend a lot of time on 40M, so that's where I usually see the
problem. I do believe it happens on other bands though.

If an occasional jump to 150W is ok, then I won't worry about it. I
can leave the power knob lower so that the maximum power reached is
less than 130W on those transients.

73,

Jeff

On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

If you are saying that you see an occasional jump from 120 watts power
to 140 or even 160, I would say that *MAY* be possible, but if it jumps
from 50 (or even 80) watts to 160, then you do have a problem - and my
first reaction is that it is an indication of a transient oscillation.

How long does the power stay at 160 watts?  Is this on 40 meters, or
does it occur on all bands?  What level is your KPA100?  If it has RFC10
installed and the L15 position has a toroid and L16 has a toroid with a
red core - you do not have the latest update - that update was designed
to combat a parasitic on 40 meters.  In your case, I would recommend the
KPA100UPKT if it is not already installed just to be rid of the
possibility that the 40 meter parasitic is what is causing your problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Thanks Don and others for the answers.
>
> In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be
> fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I
> thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are
> we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100
> gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation
> issue, as I don't see high SWRs.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
>
> On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for
>> a period of time.  It is mostly the result of heating in the PA
>> transistors.  In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a
>> constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be
>> present.
>>
>> Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of
>> time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle.  OK for
>> short bursts, but not good for longer periods.  The base K2 shoud be
>> limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35
>> watts or less with the KPA100.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> > Hi Don,
>> >
>> > Thanks for the replies.
>> >
>> > To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load.
>> >
>> > I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE,
>> > and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the
>> > display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's
>> > up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker
>> > some.
>> >
>> > Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the
>> > next TUNE will see the power climb back up again.
>> >
>> > I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this
>> > point, or start focusing on the control board...?
>> >
>> > Thanks, 73,
>> >
>> > Jeff
>> >
>> > On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >> Jeff,
>> >>
>> >> Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly
>> >> (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts?  If you
>> >> get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested
>> power
>> >> set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they
>> should be.
>> >>
>> >> Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with
>> >> the power control.
>> >>
>> >> OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in
>> >> the power control (ALC) loop.
>> >>
>> >> 73,
>> >> Don W3FPR
>> >>
>> >> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> >> > Don and others,
>> >> >
>> >> > A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output
>> >> > with his K2. Don said:
>> >> >
>> >> >> If you do not ha

Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Thanks Don and others for the answers.

In my case, I'm trying to run down a proble where the KPA100 will be
fine, then all of a sudden it's output will jump up over 140W. I
thought that the high output in the base K2 might be the cause. So are
we saying that some variation is ok, and once in a while if the KPA100
gets up over 150W then we're ok? This is not apparently an oscillation
issue, as I don't see high SWRs.

Thanks,

Jeff

On 4/23/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

That is normal behavior - the power will climb a bit if left in TUNE for
a period of time.  It is mostly the result of heating in the PA
transistors.  In normal operation, either with CW or SSB, there is not a
constant carrier being transmitted and the same conditions will not be
present.

Do not leave the K2 in TUNE at high power for any significant length of
time - remember that TUNE is transmitting at a 100% duty cycle.  OK for
short bursts, but not good for longer periods.  The base K2 shoud be
limited to 5 watts or less for a 100% duty cycle transmission and to 35
watts or less with the KPA100.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load.
>
> I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE,
> and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the
> display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's
> up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker
> some.
>
> Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the
> next TUNE will see the power climb back up again.
>
> I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this
> point, or start focusing on the control board...?
>
> Thanks, 73,
>
> Jeff
>
> On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly
>> (check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts?  If you
>> get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power
>> set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be.
>>
>> Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with
>> the power control.
>>
>> OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in
>> the power control (ALC) loop.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> > Don and others,
>> >
>> > A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output
>> > with his K2. Don said:
>> >
>> >> If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100
>> >> installed, the
>> >> K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested
>> >> power
>> >> is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the
>> >> indication on the LED bargraph during transmit?
>> >
>> > I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting
>> > out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes
>> > jumps up to 150+W.
>> >
>> > I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can
>> > reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the
>> > behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the
>> > display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate
>> > enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with
>> > the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks.
>> >
>> > So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the
>> > power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my
>> > external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate).
>> >
>> > I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power
>> > knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go
>> > to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up
>> > to 16+W.
>> >
>> > Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already
>> > gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating
>> > anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail.
>> >
>> > I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping
>> > someone might have any ideas that I could chase down.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Jeff
>

Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hi Don,

Thanks for the replies.

To answer your questions, the problem occurs into a dummy load.

I set the base K2 (without KPA100 connected) to 5.0W, and then TUNE,
and it starts at 5.0W and heads upwards to 5.7-6.0W (read from the
display, as well as the S-meter). After about 10 seconds in TUNE, it's
up to 5.7 or 6W and the next LED on the S-meter is starting to flicker
some.

Moving the power knob will allow me to bring it back to 5.0W, but the
next TUNE will see the power climb back up again.

I'm not sure if I should still be looking on the RF board at this
point, or start focusing on the control board...?

Thanks, 73,

Jeff

On 4/22/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

Another thought and a question - does the K2 control power properly
(check with TUNE) when the requested power is set to 5 watts?  If you
get somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 watts output with the requested power
set to 5, then the power control circuits are working as they should be.

Setting the power to maximum will not readily reveal any problems with
the power control.

OTOH, if the power output is always high then you do have a problem in
the power control (ALC) loop.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Don and others,
>
> A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output
> with his K2. Don said:
>
>> If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100
>> installed, the
>> K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested
>> power
>> is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the
>> indication on the LED bargraph during transmit?
>
> I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting
> out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes
> jumps up to 150+W.
>
> I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can
> reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the
> behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the
> display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate
> enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with
> the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks.
>
> So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the
> power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my
> external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate).
>
> I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power
> knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go
> to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up
> to 16+W.
>
> Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already
> gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating
> anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail.
>
> I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping
> someone might have any ideas that I could chase down.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
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[Elecraft] Question about K2 power meter

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Don and others,

A few weeks back, a user posted about an issue with low power output
with his K2. Don said:


If you do not have either the KAT2, the KPA100, or the KAT100 installed, the
K2 does not display the actual power output on the LCD (the requested power
is displayed briefly when the power control is changed). What is the
indication on the LED bargraph during transmit?


I'm going through an issue with my K2 where it *appears* to be putting
out too much power. With the KPA100 installed, the output sometimes
jumps up to 150+W.

I removed the KPA100 from the picture and have been seeing if I can
reproduce higher than normal output with just the base K2. So far, the
behavior is that if I enter TUNE mode, the indicated power on the
display of the K2 will rise to 16-17W. My watt meter isn't accurate
enough to tell me what it's *really* putting out though, although with
the KPA100 it is accurate enough to see the 150W+ peaks.

So I was trying to think if it's really putting out 16+W, or if the
power meter is really telling me it's TRYING to put it out (because my
external wattmeter looks like actually less, but again not accurate).

I also thought maybe it's an ALC issue, because if I rotate the power
knob back then back up to max, the indicated power on the K2 will go
to about 15W, but the next time I do TUNE again, it again goes back up
to 16+W.

Any thoughts on this? Should I keep chasing ALC issues? I've already
gone through the base K2 RF board resoldering T1-T4, reheating
anything that looks suspect, etc. to no avail.

I also sent something to this effect to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I'm just hoping
someone might have any ideas that I could chase down.

Thanks,

Jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100, half power output on 17-10M

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Don, C31 is the new value, just replaced it a few weeks ago...

-J

On 4/7/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

In that case, what is the size of C31?  If it is the old .033 uF it must
be changed to the new .22 uF value.  You can get one from Elecraft when
they get back in the office, but if you have two .1 uF caps with a
voltage rating of 50 volts or more, you can parallel them for the time
being.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> Don, thanks, it's the newest KPA100, just bought/built it about a
> month or two ago...
>
> -Jeff
>
> On 4/7/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Jeff,
>>
>> Before we give any answer, we need to know the level of the KPA100.
>> Did you build it from the manual Revision D or the earlier Rev C?
>> Another way of checking - do you have a toroid at L15 and is RFC10
>> present?
>>
>> It is not likely to be a sticking relay problem - that almost never
>> happens with the KPA100.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
>> > My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
>> > noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
>> > antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
>> > connected to an antenna with more than 1.3:1 SWR, the output power
>> > would rise to 140W).
>> >
>> > About the same time, I started noticing lower output power on 10, 12,
>> > 15, and 17M. Output remains full on 20, 30, 40 and 80M.
>> >
>> > Today I pulled the KPA100 apart, went though and checked and
>> > resoldered everything around the SWR bridge, and anything that looked
>> > remotely cold-soldered.
>> >
>> > Put it back together, same issue (well, at least the lower power
>> issue).
>> >
>> > With a setting of anything over 50W, the max output is 50-52W, as
>> > indicated on the K2 internal wattmeter, or my external wattmeter.
>> >
>> > Any ideas why I'd only get half power on half the bands (and this is a
>> > new occurrance, I was getting full power before).
>> >
>> > Thanks for any ideas,
>> >
>> > Jeff
>>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100, half power output on 17-10M

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Don, thanks, it's the newest KPA100, just bought/built it about a
month or two ago...

-Jeff

On 4/7/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

Before we give any answer, we need to know the level of the KPA100.
Did you build it from the manual Revision D or the earlier Rev C?
Another way of checking - do you have a toroid at L15 and is RFC10 present?

It is not likely to be a sticking relay problem - that almost never
happens with the KPA100.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ wrote:
> My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
> noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
> antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
> connected to an antenna with more than 1.3:1 SWR, the output power
> would rise to 140W).
>
> About the same time, I started noticing lower output power on 10, 12,
> 15, and 17M. Output remains full on 20, 30, 40 and 80M.
>
> Today I pulled the KPA100 apart, went though and checked and
> resoldered everything around the SWR bridge, and anything that looked
> remotely cold-soldered.
>
> Put it back together, same issue (well, at least the lower power issue).
>
> With a setting of anything over 50W, the max output is 50-52W, as
> indicated on the K2 internal wattmeter, or my external wattmeter.
>
> Any ideas why I'd only get half power on half the bands (and this is a
> new occurrance, I was getting full power before).
>
> Thanks for any ideas,
>
> Jeff


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[Elecraft] Re: K2/100, half power output on 17-10M

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Ok, strange...

Power-cycling the K2 *seems* to get my power back to 100%.

There have been a few times that I've noticed that power output seems
strange, and finding that turning the rig on/off/on seems to bring it
back.

So, is that an issue with relays being sticky, or...?

Thanks,

-Jeff

On 4/7/07, Jeff Kinzli N6GQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
connected to an antenna with more than 1.3:1 SWR, the output power
would rise to 140W).

About the same time, I started noticing lower output power on 10, 12,
15, and 17M. Output remains full on 20, 30, 40 and 80M.

Today I pulled the KPA100 apart, went though and checked and
resoldered everything around the SWR bridge, and anything that looked
remotely cold-soldered.

Put it back together, same issue (well, at least the lower power issue).

With a setting of anything over 50W, the max output is 50-52W, as
indicated on the K2 internal wattmeter, or my external wattmeter.

Any ideas why I'd only get half power on half the bands (and this is a
new occurrance, I was getting full power before).

Thanks for any ideas,

Jeff


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[Elecraft] K2/100, half power output on 17-10M

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

My K2/100 (#5945) has been working well lately, until I started
noticing higher output at times, more pronounced with higher SWR
antennas (i.e. it would more often spike it's output power if
connected to an antenna with more than 1.3:1 SWR, the output power
would rise to 140W).

About the same time, I started noticing lower output power on 10, 12,
15, and 17M. Output remains full on 20, 30, 40 and 80M.

Today I pulled the KPA100 apart, went though and checked and
resoldered everything around the SWR bridge, and anything that looked
remotely cold-soldered.

Put it back together, same issue (well, at least the lower power issue).

With a setting of anything over 50W, the max output is 50-52W, as
indicated on the K2 internal wattmeter, or my external wattmeter.

Any ideas why I'd only get half power on half the bands (and this is a
new occurrance, I was getting full power before).

Thanks for any ideas,

Jeff
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[Elecraft] KPA100 high output, again

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Greetings Elecrafters,

K2 #5945 with KPA100 has been very happy lately, working lots of good
DX on the bands and teaching it's owner some new tricks :)

Anyhow, when I first finished the KPA100 a month or two ago, I noticed
some high output (like 140W) at times. It happens on 40M (well, that's
the band I'm on usually), and I'll see my wattmeter all of a sudden
start reading up around 140W. Bringing the power level doesn't have an
effect until the rig *thinks* it's down quite a bit lower, like 80W or
70W, then it seems to correct itself and it's fine from there on out,
with max power right around 100W for full-scale power settings.

Originally, we thought it might be due to an oscillation, and I have
replaced C31 (I think thats the one, I forget) with the new value to
stop the oscillations, but I seem to remember Don saying that when
there's an oscillation, the perceived SWR rises, and I don't think
that's happening.

So I'm wondering, perhaps I have a bug in the power sense section?
Maybe a bad solder joint or something?

The problem occurred numerous times the first weekend I had the KPA100
on the air, and hasn't happened since, until today. I was all excited
that the problem had gone away, but I seem to have jinxed myself :)

Any ideas, thoughts, or otherwise?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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[Elecraft] KPA100 high output

[Jeff Kinzli]

Greetings Elecrafters,

K2 #5945 with KPA100 has been very happy lately, working lots of good
DX on the bands and teaching it's owner some new tricks :)

Anyhow, when I first finished the KPA100 a month or two ago, I noticed
some high output (like 140W) at times. It happens on 40M (well, that's
the band I'm on usually), and I'll see my wattmeter all of a sudden
start reading up around 140W. Bringing the power level doesn't have an
effect until the rig *thinks* it's down quite a bit lower, like 80W or
70W, then it seems to correct itself and it's fine from there on out,
with max power right around 100W for full-scale power settings.

Originally, we thought it might be due to an oscillation, and I have
replaced C31 (I think thats the one, I forget) with the new value to
stop the oscillations, but I seem to remember Don saying that when
there's an oscillation, the perceived SWR rises, and I don't think
that's happening.

So I'm wondering, perhaps I have a bug in the power sense section?
Maybe a bad solder joint or something?

The problem occurred numerous times the first weekend I had the KPA100
on the air, and hasn't happened since, until today. I was all excited
that the problem had gone away, but I seem to have jinxed myself :)

Any ideas, thoughts, or otherwise?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Keith, the improvement is there across the board, and I find that
depending on conditions, sometimes wider is good, sometimes not.

I find myself often switching between crystal and DSP filter settings
to find the sweet spot, and often there really is a very definate
sweet spot for a given signal and noise complement.

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/29/07, Darwin, Keith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff, do you hear that difference only in wide IF positions or does the
DSP provide the same benefit when you stop down the IF to 400 Hz?  And
does the effectiveness depend on the type of noise?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -

-Original Message-
You have to hear the difference between a very weak signal on and off
the DSP. It's amazing. Without it, you can just barely tell there's
someone in the noise. With the DSP activated, that signal often becomes
completely copyable. Sounds like an exaggeration but it's not.

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Chris, I'm a 99.9% CW op, too, and find myself working weak signal
stuff mostly, and mostly on 40M. I find the KDSP2 an invaluable tool.
I also have the KNB2, and it's effective on some noise, but I rarely
use it.

You have to hear the difference between a very weak signal on and off
the DSP. It's amazing. Without it, you can just barely tell there's
someone in the noise. With the DSP activated, that signal often
becomes completely copyable. Sounds like an exaggeration but it's not.

I'm sure there's probably a K2/DSP combo nearer to you than I (I'm in
Santa Cruz) but if you ever want to hear the difference, feel free to
stop by and we can pull some weak signals out so you can hear the
difference.

True, there is a "processed" sound to the signals when you get
aggressive with the DSP, but I'll take that any day over not being
able to copy the signal at all.

And I find that the stock crystal filters + the DSP make a great combination.

73,

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/29/07, Chris Kantarjiev <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Does this combination make sense? I operate 100% CW. These days, I seem
to be chasing a lot of very weak signals with questionable readability.
My vertical isn't the quietest of antennas (they never are) and my
neighborhood has a fair amount of QRM on 40m during "real people hours".

For example, this morning I was trying to get KH2/JR4GPA. Copying his
sign was very tough, but I finally got it and confirmed it. I called
a couple of times but realized that I wouldn't recognize my call even
if he returned it! Just on the egde of ESP.

So ... would AF or DSP help me in this situation? The noise blanker
doesn't seem to do much good for the noise sources my neighbors provide.

Thanks!

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filter settings

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I'll be the third to chime in on how useful the spectrogram method of
aligning filters is. The first time around (without spectogram) I
noticed similar results as you did, then I did the spectrogram
alignment and it got *much* better, but it still wasn't right. Third
time, it got even better. I'll be doing it again this weekend I think,
it's somewhat of an art but it's also gratifying to see how much of a
change it really can make.

As Don said, you can do this anytime, no cause for concern at this point.

73,

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/16/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Nick,

I wholeheartedly second this.  I followed the manual and noticed the same thing 
you did.  When I hooked up Spectrogram I could clearly see that the narrower 
filters were off center.  I adjusted while watching the Spectrogram screen and 
things sound *much* better.

Craig AC6NN


-- Original message --
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Nick,
>
> Sometimes the filters (particularly the narrower ones) do not respond well
> to the initial numbers in the manual because the filter center may be
> shifted a bit due to the particular set of matched crystals supplied.  I
> don't think you have a problem.
>
> There is a solution, and that is called 'Spectrogram', which will provide a
> visual display of the filter shape and positioning on a computer screen.
> Download the last freeware version (5.17) of Spectrogram from www.n0ss.net
> and look at the instructions for using it on Tom's website or the Builder's
> Resource page of the Elecraft website.
>
> You could let the filter alignemnt wait until you have the rest of the K2
> built and the KSB2 (if you added that) installed and then you can do a
> complete dial calibration and filter alignment.  Instructions for doing that
> are on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
>
> >
> > Thrilled to get my K2 working on 7 MHz receive but I seem to have
> > a problem with filter settings.
> > Everything has checked out according to the book - no problems at
> > all (even my home-wound coils seem to work!!)
> > I have set up the filters exactly according to pages 88 and 89.
> > On Filter 1 the rx sounds great - plenty of gain, clean signals.
> > On the other 3 filters it sounds like I am listening through a
> > dense fog - I can tell the bandwidth is far narrower than F1 but
> > signals are weak and it sounds as if the filters are overlapping
> > each other (if you know what I mean). I have checked settings
> > again and all look OK. Does anyone recognise this problem please?
> > I am reluctant to proceed until I have sorted it out.
> > 73 Nick G3RWF
> >
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.11/723 - Release Date: 3/15/2007
> 11:27 AM
>
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[Elecraft] XG2

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

So I just finished building an XG2, and did the measurements on my
K2/100, #5945. MDS came out to be -136.96 dBm. That seems to be what
the manual states is within normal range.

I wonder what the variance is on the MDS between K2s? Anyone else
measure theirs and care to comment?

Thanks,

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I have a K2 with DSP, and just last weekend added the KNB2 to the mix.

So far, for the noise I have here, the DSP denoiser works much better
than the KNB2. I've just been switching it in and out to see what
affect it has, and so far haven't found much noise that it removes.

I'm in a relatively quiet place though, so that might be it.

As Bob said, it's cheap, and it's a kit you can build and install in
about an hour or two, so why not!? :)

73,

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/10/07, Bob Tellefsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Pete
It all depends on the type of noise you experience.
For some kinds of noise, the KNB2 works like magic.
For other kinds, it has no effect at all.  For some odd
noises, it sort of works.
Ultimately, it's a crap shoot.  It is an inexpensive option,
and I would add it as insurance for those times when
it does work.  I have it in both my K2s.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: "B Peter Treml" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 4:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie


> I have come into possession of a K2/100 with the DSP filter (KDSP2) but
does
> not have the noise blanker (KNB2).
> Question: (1) Is the noise blanker a worthwhile purchase?
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> 73, Pete-K8PT
>
> >
> B. Peter Treml [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 725 W. Magnetic St.   www.qrz.com/k8pt
> Marquette, Mi. 49855
> USA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 filter center frequencies

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Along these lines, is there a way to set the DSP back to factory
defaults? Pull the battery? I seem to remember reading in the manual
there was, but now that I want that info, I can't find it :|

Jeff

On 3/6/07, Lyle Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I've just built K2 #5957 and installed the DSP unit. Radio and DSP are
> both impressive as is. It seem "intuitive" to me that the DSP filter's
> center frequencies should agree with the CW sidetone. That is, if I use
> a 440cps side tone, then all the DSP center frequencies - on CW - should
> be centered on 440cps, also. Am I think correctly on this point?

It depends on how you prefer to operate.  If you want the received
station's pitch to match your sidetone, then the answer is yes.  Some
folks prefer the pitches to be different to make it easier to
distinguish what's going on, especially when using QSK, in which case
you would set the DSP filters to your preferred receive pitch.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] KDSP2, defaults to on

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Hey Friends,

I'm wondering if there's a hidden switch somewhere that would allow
the KDSP2 to power-on in bypass (or off) mode? The manual says:

"On power up, the KDSP2 will default to the first filter for each
mode. It will retain the current filter for each mode until power is
again cycled."

I find myself always bypassing the KDSP2 as soon as I power up the K2,
I'd much prefer to be able to enable it when needed rather than having
it there by default.

I don't expect there is, but in the off chance, I thought I'd ask.

Thanks!

Jeff N6GQ
K2/100 #5945
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Re: [Elecraft] First Elecraft Kit

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

Ed, you're going to love the build, and love the finished product even more.

Welcome to the group!

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/2/07, eKotz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Greetings all.
I have placed my first Elecraft kit order... a K2 plus lots of
trimmings.   The old heathkit-er in me rejoices and I look forward to
joining you.
Ed   AD7GR

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Re: [Elecraft] re: vertical antenna

[Jeff Kinzli N6GQ]

I'll throw one more option into the mix...

Lately I've been using one of Force 12's Sigma 40XK vertical dipoles.
This is about 16 feet tall, and since it's a center-fed dipole, it
supposedly doesn't *require* a counterpoise or radial system, so I've
been using it without one.

This particular antenna is a vertical dipole, but depending on the
band, it has T-bars at the top and bottom, so it looks like a
sideways-H. On 40 and 30M, it uses small loading coils at the
feedpoint with a hairpin match.  On the rest of the bands, it's a
direct-feed system via a supplied balun.

Results have been better than expected. I have it mounted about 3 feet
above ground and am working europe on 40M consistently with 100W from
W6. My previous antenna was a 2L 40M yagi at about 80 feet, and of
course it worked better, but what's interesting is that with the
vertical, I can work guys that are in the noise for me, and sometimes
so much so that I need to use the DSP just to pull them out of the
noise.  Other bands are consistent with the 40M results (10-40M,
including WARC).

The same antenna could very easily be fabricated out of wire or
aluminum and have the same results. The F12 package is nice because
it's a solidly-built antenna that just works out of the box. The one
downside is that it requires manual intervention by the user to change
bands (which means adding/removing the loading coils/hairpin and/or
adjusting the length of the T-bars). There's a few articles on Cebik's
website, as well as others, talking about vertical dipoles, and
shortened vertical dipoles.

For a portable operation, this would make a great antenna, nothing to
go wrong and performance is decent. I'm planning on using it for the
time being until I can get a tower and yagi stack up this spring.

YMMV,

Jeff N6GQ

On 3/2/07, RC kc5wa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

on the  web site is a very good
article called "Dirty little Secrets" about antennas.
It should be required reading if your considering a
vertical antenna. I've used both the hustler 5btv and
the Butternut 10-80m vertical with excellent results.

RC 
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Re: [Elecraft] I fried my N-Gen module

[Jeff Kinzli]

Thanks to those that sacrificed their NGEN, it's helpful for me to
read that, as I'm building an XG2 at the moment and it will help me
remember to go into TEST mode before connecting it ;)

Jeff N6GQ

On 2/28/07, David Lankshear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Yep, been there, got the tee-shirt!  A sniff of RF zaps the MMIC and creates 
the Homer effect (DOH!).

Murphy's law states that if it can possibly go wrong, it will do so at the most 
inconvenient moment.  I seem to prove Murphy's law most days HI!

Email Elecraft to get a price, you may be pleasantly surprised.  Their service, 
friendliness and communication is the best I've ever encountered.  Thanks, guys 
and gals, take a bow, you're really appreciated!

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 thermal pads for Q1/Q2

[Jeff Kinzli]

Going through the archives I think I have satisfied that I'm ok, and
will continue to use the "old" pads...

Thanks!

Jeff

On 2/23/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

So I opened up the KPA100 tonight to do a quick mod, and noticed the
thermal pads under Q1/Q2 are a bit worn. It's like the pressure of me
tightening down on them has smashed through them a bit on the outer
edges of the pads.

Is there an issue with a path to ground here, or are they strictly
thermal in nature? I don't think the thermal integrity of them is
harmed but there could be a path to ground via the heatsink, I guess.

Thoughts? Any off-the-shelf replacements for them, like
heat-conductive paste, perhaps?

Thanks for any thoughts,

Jeff N6GQ


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[Elecraft] KPA100 thermal pads for Q1/Q2

[Jeff Kinzli]

So I opened up the KPA100 tonight to do a quick mod, and noticed the
thermal pads under Q1/Q2 are a bit worn. It's like the pressure of me
tightening down on them has smashed through them a bit on the outer
edges of the pads.

Is there an issue with a path to ground here, or are they strictly
thermal in nature? I don't think the thermal integrity of them is
harmed but there could be a path to ground via the heatsink, I guess.

Thoughts? Any off-the-shelf replacements for them, like
heat-conductive paste, perhaps?

Thanks for any thoughts,

Jeff N6GQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading K2 #2117 to 100w

[Jeff Kinzli]

Curt,

I just finished a KPA100 build for my K2 (#5945), so I don't quite
have the perspective of installing into an pre-3000 K2, but I can tell
you that the KPA100 kits do come with a couple of mod-kits for earlier
K2s. One of them is an ALC mod and the other is a keying waveform mod,
if I remember right. In my case, those mods had already been
incorporated into the K2 that I had, so I didn't need to install them.

The BFO mod is pretty easy, and was included in my K2 also. It
consists of a small board and not many parts. It installs right
beneath where the DSP or KAF2 would install.

The KPA100 is a quick build compared to the K2. Many of the parts are
physically bigger and the toroid wires are mostly heavier guage, so
IMHO it was a much easier build. I think mine went over a weekend, and
it worked on first powerup. Properly tinning the toroid leads I think
is one of the most important things here. Initial alignment went
easily as well.

Best of luck, you won't be disappointed.

Jeff N6GQ (ex KA6LAF)
K2/100 #5945

On 2/22/07, Curt Milton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I confess I have not been inside my K2 since I installed the SSB board, not too 
long after I built it.  I still need to perform the mod on the static-ky audio 
(mine isnt that bad but I think its time).

Now I am contemplating upgrading to 100 watts, once I figure out how many 
upgrades I need to make.  I downloaded the Upgrading to Rev B instructions, and 
the KPA100 instructions.  And I am trying to digest all this!

My current firmware is 2.01F.

Now what purchases must I make (in addition to KPA100) to enjoy this rig at 
100w?

I am sensing with the additional thermal load that perhaps the PLL and BFO 
upgrades are prudent.  OK another $29 here does not sound too scary.  My QRP K2 
has nice frequency accuracy thru 20m, but on 10 and 15m i have noticed a small 
error which puzzled me until I read about the PLL upgrade.

I am not contemplating adding DSP or an autotuner - so is my firmware good 
enough ?

Is there anything else that I must upgrade to enjoy this rig at 100 w ?

I understand it is prudent to evaluate all the aspects in the revision B 
instructions while the rig is receiving other mods, but I havent noticed any of 
these issues yet.

Looking for enlightenment on how to upgrade this middle-aged K2.

73, curt




Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stn Bites the Dust...Time to Replace

[Jeff Kinzli]

I used a Weller WES51, and was pleased with it. Variable temperature,
ESD-safe and mine was $99 I think. Lots of tips available most
anywhere...

-Jeff

On 2/20/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

My soldering station which is an off-brand has bitten the dust so I'm
looking for a new, name-brand, IC-safe, temp controlled tip station.  Any
recommendations for model...Hakko or Weller?  I'm hoping to keep my
expenditure to $125 or less.

Need to get the solder heated up & back on the DSP unit.

73 de K5AVJ, Lynn
(K2#1411)
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[Elecraft] TR speed and receiver settling

[Jeff Kinzli]

I'm not quite sure how to ask this, and perhaps it's covered somewhere
else (again, not knowing how to ask leaves me having trouble finding
it in the archives) :)

Anyhow, in a fast paced contest such as this weekend's ARRL DX CW, I
found myself wishing that the time between finishing transmitting and
the time when the receiver settles to be faster.

I.e. I send my call, and before I the audio comes back to normal
levels, the other station is partially into repeating my call. I tried
changing the TR values in the menu, but that didn't really change
things. I also tried reducing sidetone volume significantly, thinking
that might help, but it didn't really help much.

Again, apologies for not knowing the technical jargon to describe
this, but hopefully I've given enough info to get the point across.

So, is there a knob somewhere, or something I could adjust to achieve
what I'm looking for?

Thanks for any thoughts,

Jeff KA6LAF

PS: Love this radio, the DSP was a life saver for weak signals this
last weekend. I worked stuff that I couldn't have copied without the
DSP. Bravo!
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Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9

[Jeff Kinzli]

I agree with Arie, the K2 is not a technically challenging build. The
fact that the build is broken up into many smaller steps really helps
make it easy to sit down, work on it for a couple hours, then go and
do something else.

The engineering that went into this, and attention to detail, is superb.

Lastly, the support here on this reflector is second to none, everyone
is extremely helpful and there's a wide range of knowledge here.

The only thing you need to build this kit is a very elemental
electronics knowledge (identifying parts, mostly), some basic
soldering skills (a quality soldering station will help immensely, as
will decent fine tips), and attention to details.

You'll enjoy it!

Jeff KA6LAF

On 2/19/07, Arie Kleingeld PA3A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Chris,

I have built a HW8 (30 yrs ago), a K2 (2006) and several other kits and
projects during my ham life.
The K2 is just as easy to build as a HW8. Just follow the instructions
and take your time. As for engineering, I was most impressed by the K2
kit. No long wire cables atc.
I loved building the K2 and it was just as easy to align as the HW8.

Building is smooth and I say it again, take your time, don't be hasty,
check every box on the page of the manual after you have done something.
Checking the box on the page will take your eyes off the K2 for a moment
and that really helped me to avoid mistakes. Also, if you have patience,
you will be rewarded. If you go to fast, you will make mistakes.

Good luck.

73
Arie PA3A



-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Chip Hood
Verzonden: maandag 19 februari 2007 14:33
Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9


I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and
tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9:  difficulty, time to
complete, troubleshooting, etc.

My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack.  I'd like to
build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle
or have time to complete.

Thanks for any input.

73,  KM4AF -- Chip

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[Elecraft] Intermittent KPA100 high output

[Jeff Kinzli]

I've been 'burning in' my new KPA100 this weekend in the ARRL DX contest.

I've noticed something strange though, it's very intermittant, I've
only seen it twice now over the weekend.

- Antenna SWR is flat, 1.0:1
- Palstar wattmeter indicates 100W out
- Band is 40M

Now, the strange part - very occasionally, the CW sidetone tone will
change to a more "labored" tone (can't quite describe it, other than
maybe a bit distorted, but it's very subtle), K2 reports a brief
HI-CUR, and Palstar wattmeter indicates about 140W output. If I
immediately go into high-power TUNE, it again indicates 100W and
everything is back to normal again. This whole scenario is on the
order of a few seconds in duration.

I looked through the archives and didn't find anything like this one.
Everything else appears to be working perfectly. I listened to my own
signal on another radio and it sounds clean to my ear, for whatever
that's worth, but of course I wasn't able to capture what it sounds
like under this intermittent higher output scenario.

Thanks for any ideas...

Jeff
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[Elecraft] KDSP2 guide

[Jeff Kinzli]

I'm quite surprised at how well the KDSP2 is able to make signals go
from uncopyable to Q5 copy. The last few evenings I've been spending a
lot of time on 40M listening (and working a few) to europeans, and
with my smallish antennas, most of the european sigs are quite weak
out here in CA. With the noise, QRM, polar flutter, etc. it makes for
a rough copy. Engage the DSP though, and they pop right out of the
noise, and all of a sudden they're perfectly copyable.

I find myself, however, jumping through menus because I still don't
quite understand how things are layed out, and how to get back to a
place in the menu where I was previously to adjust a given parameter.

Makes me think a cheat sheet or guide would be helpful. The little
table in the KDSP2 book doesn't quite make sense to me either, or at
least I can't reliably duplicate the button presses to get a given
result.

Does anyone have such a beast? I figure I'd really be dangerous if I
understood and was comfortable with the DSP knobs.

Thanks,

Jeff KA6LAF
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: K2 S/N 5665

[Jeff Kinzli]

Congratulations, Ken! I just finished #5945 and a KPA100 and am having
a great time in the ARRL DX contest this weekend. You'll love the
radio!

-Jeff KA6LAF

On 2/10/07, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

K2 S/N 5665 is up and running today on all bands.

Now to install all the additional modules and build
the (on-hand) PA and tuner into an EC-2 enclosure

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 lost sidetone?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Don, you are exactly correct, thanks again...

-J

On 2/16/07, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Jeff,

Your sidetone source likely was switched for some reason or other - maybe by
an 'extra' finger press while in the menu

Go back into the menu and dial up ST L, press EDIT to move the cursor over
to the right side and then tap DISPLAY to toggle the sidetone source.  When
you hear the sidetone, stop and exit from the menu.

In some rare instances, it may take a few 'toggles' to get things to switch
properly, so try it several times.  If you have a post SN 3000 K2 (or have
put the sidetone source change on an older K2 because you added the KPA100
or KIO2) your sidetone source should be 'U8 - 4' - you will see the source
displayed briefly each time it is toggled.

73,
Don W3FPR



> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jeff Kinzli
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 5:06 PM
> To: Elecraft Mail Posting
> Subject: [Elecraft] K2 lost sidetone?
>
>
> Oh man, what timing...2 hours before the start of the contest, and I
> went in and did CAL tPA to set the ambient temp of the KPA100, and
> when I came out of the menus, I had no sidetone anymore!
>
> Going through all the menus, all the side tone settings look correct.
> The rig hears and transmits fine, but the sidetone is silent.
>
> I thought I might need to reset back to defaults, but I think that
> resets all the filters and BFO, etc., right? If that's the case, I've
> gotta go through realignment again? I'll miss the beginning of the
> contest :( I'm going to miss it anyhow though at this point.
>
> Any ideas short of disassembling and resetting?
>
> Thanks,
> -J
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 lost sidetone? (FIXED)

[Jeff Kinzli]

In my stressing, I didn't think to check the archives...found the answer here:

http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2006-08/msg00751.html

Problem solved. Pfew!

Cyu in the contest ;)

-J

On 2/16/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Oh man, what timing...2 hours before the start of the contest, and I
went in and did CAL tPA to set the ambient temp of the KPA100, and
when I came out of the menus, I had no sidetone anymore!

Going through all the menus, all the side tone settings look correct.
The rig hears and transmits fine, but the sidetone is silent.

I thought I might need to reset back to defaults, but I think that
resets all the filters and BFO, etc., right? If that's the case, I've
gotta go through realignment again? I'll miss the beginning of the
contest :( I'm going to miss it anyhow though at this point.

Any ideas short of disassembling and resetting?

Thanks,
-J


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[Elecraft] K2 lost sidetone?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Oh man, what timing...2 hours before the start of the contest, and I
went in and did CAL tPA to set the ambient temp of the KPA100, and
when I came out of the menus, I had no sidetone anymore!

Going through all the menus, all the side tone settings look correct.
The rig hears and transmits fine, but the sidetone is silent.

I thought I might need to reset back to defaults, but I think that
resets all the filters and BFO, etc., right? If that's the case, I've
gotta go through realignment again? I'll miss the beginning of the
contest :( I'm going to miss it anyhow though at this point.

Any ideas short of disassembling and resetting?

Thanks,
-J
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Fan direction?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Hey Folks, got the KPA100 done tonight, full power on all bands, woohoo!

One question, is the fan supposed to blow IN or OUT of the chassis?

I saw the same question in the archives but no answer...

Thanks!

-J
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Re: [Elecraft] An Expert with Heart

[Jeff Kinzli]

Yes! Don's been super helpful and patient with my build as well. Don,
you're the best, big kudos, and thanks!

Jeff

On 2/14/07, Dale Kretzer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Surely, the phonetics for Don Wilhelm's call letters, W3FPR, must be "Friendly, 
Patient Radioman."

After following Don's helpful responses daily here on the Forum the last 
two years, I'm in awe of not only

his obvious technical skills, but his superhuman patience as well.

Don does this voluntarily, can be counted on to answer every post from 
newbies and others with precise answers,

and he does it with the spirit of an "old school" ham radioman. He's the 
ultimate Elmer. Such patient explanations and

detailed troubleshooting guidelines from Don and other gentlemen of his caliber 
are quite significant to the successful

growth of the fine Elecraft line.

I feel it appropriate on Valentine's Day to say to Don, "You've got a big heart, 
brother!"

My best regards and respect,

Dale - K6PJV

Sacramento, CA
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[Elecraft] KPA100, C2A, C6D

[Jeff Kinzli]

On the KPA100 kit, C2A and C6D are 1200PF 500V caps. The ones I got
were marked "122J" and are of the brown type (like 103, 104, etc.) but
bigger. C2a/C6d though are not quite as big as the other 500V caps
included in the kit, and they don't fit perfectly into the cutouts on
the board, and they certainly are smaller than the board outlines.

Is this normal?

Thanks!

-J
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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 - ribbon cable lockout pins?

[Jeff Kinzli]

With the help of Charles, N3EJS, I realized that it's been a long day
of building...I see the picture now.

Cheers,

-J

On 2/11/07, Jeff Kinzli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hey all, I'm assembling my KPA100, and the book says to install some
pins in the ribbon cable connectors at Pin 4, keying inserts.

I'll be darned if I can find anything remotely close to these that
would have a chance of fitting in those holes. Anyone have a picture
handy, or any help in finding those little critters?

Thanks,

-J


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[Elecraft] KPA100 - ribbon cable lockout pins?

[Jeff Kinzli]

Hey all, I'm assembling my KPA100, and the book says to install some
pins in the ribbon cable connectors at Pin 4, keying inserts.

I'll be darned if I can find anything remotely close to these that
would have a chance of fitting in those holes. Anyone have a picture
handy, or any help in finding those little critters?

Thanks,

-J
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[Elecraft] K2 #5945 birthday, and a question

[Jeff Kinzli]

Hallelujah! K2 #5945 is finished and has power on all bands. Woohoo! :)

It's a little low on 10M (like 8 or 9W total). Not sure if that's
something to worry about or not.

Anyhow, I'm just starting to build the KPA100. I have not yet put all
the covers on the K2, nor the speaker, etc. From what I can tell, none
of that needs to be done as the KPA100 comes with that (and replaces
that).

So, at the end of the section where the final TX alignment is done, is
it alright to go ahead and begin installation of the KPA100 at that
point?

Also, I figure the K2 could use a full alignment, start to finish. Is
there a guide somewhere that does all the calibrations, alignments,
etc. ?

Thanks for all the help, you've been very helpful.

-Jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] Coil winding novice

[Jeff Kinzli]

Hi Nick,

I'm a beginner kit builder also, and just finished my first K2.

I, too, was worried about the toroid windings. I went ahead and tried
it, and it really isn't that bad.

I found that Elecraft gives you more than enough wire, so err on the
side of a longer wire than called for by an inch or two. I also highly
recommend making sure the leads are well tinned before installing -
this caused my no TX problem that took me a good few days to find. I
found that even though I had continuity between the solder pads, it
wasn't fully working. Pulling it out and reinstalling fixed the
problem.

Also, the number of passed *through* the toroid is the number of
windings. That's sometimes a bit confusing.

Good luck!

Jeff

On 2/9/07, Nick Henwood <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I am just starting on my K2 and feeling apprehensive about coil winding - never 
 having wound a toroidal coil.My inclination is to wind them myself rather than 
give way and buy a set. It all looks straightforward in the instruction manual. 
Would welcome encouragement or cautionary advice.
73 Nick G3RWF
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[Elecraft] IF shift

[Jeff Kinzli]

Hey friends, how hard would it be to implement something along the
lines of an IF shift, ala the TS830S IF shift? That's something I
really like about my 830 and it seems like it would be a nice addition
to the K2.

Along the same lines, would it be feasible to have an outboard S-meter needle?

I guess I'm somewhat old fashioned :)

I do have the DSP module in my K2, and I guess I could achieve similar
results with that, yes? It's just that it's not a simple knob to
turn...

Thanks for any thoughts,

Jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] Thermistor board

[Jeff Kinzli]

Along these lines, is there a way to know that the thermistor board is
working properly? I'm guessing one would see drift, but are there more
efficient, quantitative tests to ensure thermistor board function?

Thanks,

Jeff

On 2/6/07, Chuck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




Dave,

It's tight, but everything will fit.  Be sure the leads coming out of the 
thermistor board bend immediately 90 deg to the RF board.

Also take a good long hard look at your solder joints on that little thing.  
The holes are not clad, so solder does not flow there like the rest of the kit.

My only problem with the whole kit was a joint on the thermistor board.  I 
looked at it several times and signed it off as good.  I had to do a great deal 
of disassmbly to find out that was my problem afterall.

I just finished up my K2/100 yesterday and enjoyed my first QSOs last night.

Chuck K4QS

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[Elecraft] Debugging no TX on K2

[Jeff Kinzli]

So I've been debugging as I get time my recently finished K2, and trying
to find out why it's got no output. 

Tonight I traced all of the DC voltage points in the troubleshooting 
guide, and found two anomolies, both of which are connected to one
another.

On pin 7 of U4, and also pin 1 of U5, I get 4.9V, and the manual
says they should be 0V.

My first thought was a solder bridge, but I see none.

U4 is where there's a mod on the bottom side of the board. My thought now
is that while adding that mod, I overheated U4 and opened up a path 
to pin 7 of 5V. 

Does that sound possible/reasonable/likely? Would that also cause my 
"no output" problem? These chips appear to be in the PLL circuit, so it seems 
if these were fried, I'd have frequency/VFO problems, yes?

Since these two pins connect to each other, and nothing else, I don't see 
any other way for 5V to get in there.

Or, am I chasing another ghost? :)

Thanks for any ideas guys, you have all been very helpful and I really
appreciate it.

Jeff
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