Re: [Elecraft] K1 frequency off by 5.5kHz

[W3FPR]

Chris,

Look in the K1 manual (download if you do not have a printed version) 
for VFO calibration.
This requires you to spread or shrink the turns on L1.  Check the number 
of turns on L1 to be certain they are correct.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2024 4:24 PM, Chris wrote:

Hello,

I picked up a K1-4 at a hamfest today, and it seems working fine with one
issue. The frequency is off by 5.5kHz. Can someone guide me how to correct
this?



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[Elecraft] K1 frequency off by 5.5kHz

[Chris]

Hello,

I picked up a K1-4 at a hamfest today, and it seems working fine with one
issue. The frequency is off by 5.5kHz. Can someone guide me how to correct
this?

Many thanks,

Chris KM1B
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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[Mike Short]

Thank you for the clarification.

On Sun, Jun 30, 2024 at 19:37 W3FPR  wrote:

> Mike,
>
> It will not make any difference as long as all the band components
> (crystal, capacitors, and toroids) are correct for each band.
> While it is nice to have the lower band as B1 and the upper band as B2,
> it is not necessary, just set each band to agree with the low/upper band
> frequency in the menu.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2024 4:44 PM, Mike Short wrote:
> > I have a partially assembled 20/40 kit I acquired. The directions say to
> > have band 1 the lowest frequency but this one is reversed. 20 is band 1
> and
> > 40 is band 2. What may be the issues with leaving it like this?
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[W3FPR]

Mike,

It will not make any difference as long as all the band components 
(crystal, capacitors, and toroids) are correct for each band.
While it is nice to have the lower band as B1 and the upper band as B2, 
it is not necessary, just set each band to agree with the low/upper band 
frequency in the menu.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2024 4:44 PM, Mike Short wrote:

I have a partially assembled 20/40 kit I acquired. The directions say to
have band 1 the lowest frequency but this one is reversed. 20 is band 1 and
40 is band 2. What may be the issues with leaving it like this?


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Re: [Elecraft] K1

[Michael Carter via Elecraft]

Hi Mike,

Can you verify if the correct coils were installed
on the filter board in the Band 1 and Band 2 positions?
Same question for the two crystals used in the PreMix
oscillator?

73,
Mike, K8CN
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[Elecraft] K1

[Mike Short]

I have a partially assembled 20/40 kit I acquired. The directions say to
have band 1 the lowest frequency but this one is reversed. 20 is band 1 and
40 is band 2. What may be the issues with leaving it like this?

Mike
AI4NS
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[Elecraft] K1 'replacement'

[inventor61]

I, too, built a K1 after I had my K2 for a good while.

Still have the K2, #771, which has been powered on almost continuously
since I built it in 1999.  By that measure, it's the World's Most
Experienced Elecraft.  I use it every day.

Sold the K1 years ago when I was trying to right size the collection of
gear that inevitably piles up.  But, I sort of missed it, a little.

Got a QCX Mini for 40 Meters.  Kit form, of course.
https://www.qrp-labs.com/qcxmini.html

Then I got the QDX from the same folks ... and I am now looking really hard
at their newer QMX.

What exactly IS it about little kit radios that's so ... motivating?  I
can't be the only one that harbors this affliction.

73 Steve KZ1X

***
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Andrew Moore]

> but why when you have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs
to the K1.

That, of course, is subjective.

Owned the KX2 and KX3, great rigs but sold them. No interest in the KH1.
Re-acquired a K1 a few days ago.

73 NV1B
..


On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 10:50 PM Paul Van Dyke 
wrote:

> This was slightly tongue in cheek as I remembered that, but i've seen a
> whole lot of people yelling about K1's lately.
>
> If older equipment was good, then we'd all be using AC1's... I'm now going
> to see how many remember that particular transmitter.
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 10:35 PM Mark Musick  wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> > I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason
> > Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I
> > remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
> > You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you
> > have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.
> >
> > 73,
> > Mark, WB9CIF
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  >
> > On Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
> > Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
> > To: Paul Huff 
> > Cc: Elecraft Email List 
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...
> >
> > Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
> > the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy
> of
> > the K1 today??
> >
> > Paul KB9AVO
> >
> > On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:
> >
> > > My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> > > in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> > > first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> > > shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> > > absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> > > because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> > > portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> > > after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> > > "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> > > gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> > > middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> > > getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> > > since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> > > still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> > > probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
> > >
> > > I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> > > prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
> > >
> > > 73,
> > > Paul - N8XMS
> > >
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Van Dyke]

This was slightly tongue in cheek as I remembered that, but i've seen a
whole lot of people yelling about K1's lately.

If older equipment was good, then we'd all be using AC1's... I'm now going
to see how many remember that particular transmitter.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 10:35 PM Mark Musick  wrote:

> Paul,
> I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason
> Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I
> remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
> You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you
> have the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.
>
> 73,
> Mark, WB9CIF
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
> Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
> To: Paul Huff 
> Cc: Elecraft Email List 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...
>
> Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
> the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of
> the K1 today??
>
> Paul KB9AVO
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:
>
> > My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> > in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> > first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> > shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> > absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> > because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> > portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> > after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> > "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> > gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> > middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> > getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> > since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> > still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> > probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
> >
> > I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> > prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
> >
> > 73,
> > Paul - N8XMS
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home:
> > http://mailma/
> > n.qth.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Felecraft&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cd400bcf421
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Mark Musick]

Paul,
I think I can answer your question. The simple answer is no. The reason 
Elecraft discontinued the K1 was because of unobtainable components. If I 
remember correctly, obtaining sheet metal was even a problem.
You might be able to copy the K1 with a major redesign, but why when you have 
the KX3, KX2 and now the KH1. All superior QRP rigs to the K1.

73,
Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2024 23:58
To: Paul Huff 
Cc: Elecraft Email List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of the 
staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of the K1 
today??

Paul KB9AVO

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:

> My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for
> portable ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago,
> after getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and
> "simplify" the shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other
> gear, to an ARC in my area that runs some public school clubs for
> middle and high school students.  I almost immediately regretted
> getting rid of the K1, but take some comfort in knowing that it has
> since been used to encourage young people to get into the hobby.  (I
> still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and have an order in for a KH1, and will
> probably leave those for my heirs to donate!)
>
> I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home:
> http://mailma/
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> http://mailma/
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> nknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1ha
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>
> This list hosted by:
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Van Dyke]

Since I know Wayne and Eric both watch this reflector as well as many of
the staff, this is a serious question. Could you rebuild or build a copy of
the K1 today??

Paul KB9AVO

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024, 5:51 PM Paul Huff  wrote:

> My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift
> in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its
> first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a
> shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an
> absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was
> because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for portable
> ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago, after
> getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and "simplify" the
> shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other gear, to an ARC
> in my area that runs some public school clubs for middle and high school
> students.  I almost immediately regretted getting rid of the K1, but
> take some comfort in knowing that it has since been used to encourage
> young people to get into the hobby.  (I still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and
> have an order in for a KH1, and will probably leave those for my heirs
> to donate!)
>
> I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting
> prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Paul Huff]

My wife gave me a K1 kit for a combination Christmas and birthday gift 
in 2003.  After about 33 hours of super fun construction, it made its 
first QSO on 2/29/2004.  Some 2037 QSOs later it was "retired" to a 
shelf, after making its last (for me) QSO in May 2018.  It was an 
absolutely fantastic radio and the only reason that I retired it was 
because, over the subsequent years, I had also built a KX1 for portable 
ops, and a K2 to use as my main rig at home.  Two years ago, after 
getting a KX3, I decided to clear up some shelf space and "simplify" the 
shack, so I donated the K1, along with a bunch of other gear, to an ARC 
in my area that runs some public school clubs for middle and high school 
students.  I almost immediately regretted getting rid of the K1, but 
take some comfort in knowing that it has since been used to encourage 
young people to get into the hobby.  (I still have my KX1, K2, KX3, and 
have an order in for a KH1, and will probably leave those for my heirs 
to donate!)


I kept a detailed written record of my K1 build, and this posting 
prompted me to read through that record.  Some great memories!


73,
Paul - N8XMS

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Byron Servies]

I plan to take both my K1/4 and K2/10 out for Field Day this year. Should be 
fun!

The K1 was my first kit after I realized I was not accomplishing the goals I 
set out when I got my license. So I sold my "appliances" and built the K1 in 
2010? About then. At the time, it was a bit daunting, but tuning it by 
adjusting the winding on that 1 toroid was a revelation. And I began to learn 
CW.

That pushed me to build a K2, and all the options. Such a great experience. 
Both radios are amazing.

Of course, my K3 is better in every measurable. But it always feels a bit .. 
uninspiring?  It's like carbon Trek bikes in the 2000's: the best tool for the 
local criterium racing job, but not a pleasure to ride.

Discontinuing the K1 was understandable. Difficult to maintain and likely 
unprofitable. The K2 is Elecraft's heritage and I am very happy they move 
mountains to keep it going. But it's still very sad, as the K1 is a delight.

73. Byron N6NUL

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024, at 12:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

> While running in Field Day a number of years ago with Rich, NU6T, I had 
> my K2/10 and he had his K1.  Part way through the day, we exchanged 
> radios since I'd never seen a K1 and I found out what a really cool 
> little radio that really is.  Nothing digital except the display, it 
> just really sounded great.  I noticed that strong signals would "pull" 
> the frequence just perceptibly which was a little like a signal with a 
> slight chirp.  Almost never heard anymore but somehow a little comforting.
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW - CWops #142
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
> Petr Ourednik wrote on 4/22/2024 1:47 AM:
> > The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
> > Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!
> >
> > ...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are 
> > missing on the market
> > and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
> > I am still convinced that K1 has one of the best and quietest receivers.
> >
> > 73 - Petr, OK1RP
> > http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
> > K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
> > __
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> 
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73, Byron N6NUL
-- 
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2024
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Fred Jensen]

While running in Field Day a number of years ago with Rich, NU6T, I had 
my K2/10 and he had his K1.  Part way through the day, we exchanged 
radios since I'd never seen a K1 and I found out what a really cool 
little radio that really is.  Nothing digital except the display, it 
just really sounded great.  I noticed that strong signals would "pull" 
the frequence just perceptibly which was a little like a signal with a 
slight chirp.  Almost never heard anymore but somehow a little comforting.




73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW - CWops #142
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Petr Ourednik wrote on 4/22/2024 1:47 AM:

The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!

...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are missing 
on the market
and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
I am still convinced that K1 has one of the best and quietest receivers.

73 - Petr, OK1RP
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
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[Elecraft] K1 high demand...

[Petr Ourednik]

The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!

...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are missing 
on the market
and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
I am still convinced that K1 has one of the best and quietest receivers.

73 - Petr, OK1RP
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
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[Elecraft] For Sale: Elecraft K1 and KX1 with accessories

[Jan-Michael Wyckoff]

For Sale:
Elecraft K1 S/N: 34xx, K1 Upgrade Kit, KNB1, KAT1, KBT1, KFL1-2 (80 and 40), 
KFL1-2 (20 and 30), K1BLTXT-X w/o LCD
Elecraft KX1 S/N: 29xx, KXAT1 (20 and 40), KXB3080, KXPD1, KBT1
All in original Factory boxes, unassembled, unmolested.
Price: $3000.00 cash only.

Pick up only. Will not ship.
No negotiations, no shipping, will not split up.
Jan-Michael Wyckoff
KA9FSM
jmwyck...@att.net

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[Elecraft] [K1] was Happy 15th Birthday to my K2!

[eric norris via Elecraft]

Petr,
I agree, the K1 is also a great lttle rig!  I built mine after very invasive 
shoulder surgery many years ago.  Since I was in quite a bit of pain, on 
Vicodin around the clock--and forbidden from lifting heavy weights--I thought 
it would be a fun experiment to see if I could  build a fully-optioned K1 while 
my faculties were so dimmed.  I cheated a little, using toroids wound by 
TheToroidGuy.
Success!  And it still works FB.
After seeing Heathkit HW-8s go for $1K+ on Ebay in the past, it is no surprise 
that K1s, KX1s, and eventually K2s can fetch big money.  They're all fine 
performing radios to this day (not the HW-8).
-
Big congrats and I wish you many another DX and enjoyable QSOs with your K2.
My K2 #4800 is working like champ, and it is hard to beat. Just my K1 can 
outperform K2 regarding the noise figure, hi.
I hope that K2 will be still available and I really miss the K1 in the offer.
The popularity of K1 is evidenced by the huge price it still commands if a 
piece appears at auction or for sale somewhere.

Best regards,

73 - Petr, OK1RP
-
73, Eric NF6S

ex WD6DBM

 
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft K1 Tilt Stand

[Eric J]

I just redesigned one I made for 3D printing. It's very close to the 
original. OK, closer to a blatant knockoff. The only real difference is 
that the design was changed to accommodate the different characteristics 
of 3D printing vs using the original aluminum stock.


If Elecraft has no objections, I will make the files available to anyone 
on the list who wants them. No charge for the files. Email me for 
photos. I don't think I can attach them or include a URL on this reflector.


I tried to find a general email address for Elecraft to get permission, 
but only found sales, technical, etc. So if Wayne sees this let me know 
if it's OK to share the 3DP files.


Eric KE6US

On 11/27/2023 3:51 AM, Jeff Davis wrote:

A long-shot I know, but I'm looking for a KTS1 wide-range tilt stand for an 
Elecraft K1.

Will probably have to find some aftermarket substitute, but thought I'd ask for 
the real thing first.

Thanks!

--
Jeff, KE9V
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[Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft K1 Tilt Stand

[Jeff Davis]

A long-shot I know, but I'm looking for a KTS1 wide-range tilt stand for an 
Elecraft K1.

Will probably have to find some aftermarket substitute, but thought I'd ask for 
the real thing first.

Thanks!

-- 
Jeff, KE9V
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 for sale

[Frank Krozel]

Before I place on QTH, I am offering it here.
Elecraft K1, backlight display, 4 band module, 40/30/20/15
Autotuner

kg9hfr...@gmail.com


-73- FrankKG9H
  ARRL Life Member
kg9hfr...@gmail.com





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[Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band - Now Solved

[Paul Barlow]

Thanks to Don and Michael for their advice on the K1. It was indeed a simple 
tweak of one of the caps on the filter board (pre-mix) and now all seems well 
with my K1.

73,

Paul EI5KI
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band

[W3FPR]

Paul,

Yes, it does sound like your 4 band filter board needs to be re-aligned.
Remove the KAT1 and install the jumper.
In addition, you must set the switch next to the BNC connector to the K1 
setting in order to maintain power control.
If you do not have that switch, then you have an older K1 board and you 
must re-attach R36 on the bottom of the RF Board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/12/2023 5:06 AM, Paul Barlow wrote:

Dear Elecrafters,

I'd like some advice before I go delving into something and making it worse! I have 
taken my 4 band K1 out of storage. It is set up for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m. It also 
has the auto ATU. On checking it out I find output as expected on 40m & 30m - 
5W set gives 5W out on my dummy load. But on 20m I'm only getting about 1W out for 
5W set, on 15m I get an indicated 4W.

My first guess is that I need to revisit the tuning of the trimmers on the 
filter board of the 15m and 20m (the manual reminds me to trim 15m first) bands.

I need to remove the ATU to do this and I find in my manual a cryptic note to 
say I need to move a jumper on P3. I think that will then route the RF to the 
antenna rather than to the not connected ATU.

Any more advice would be helpful before I dive in.

73,

Paul EI5KI


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band

[Michael Carter]

Hi Paul,

It does sound as though the slug-tuned inductors
on the 20 meter and 15 meter sections of the
Filter board need tweaking.  As you noted, one
must remove the KAT1 ATU board from the
Filter board to access those coils.  It is necessary
to jumper pins 2 and 10 of J2 on the Filter board
to route RF to the antenna connector.  Once you've
done that you can proceed with the alignment
as described in the manual.

73,
Mike, K8CN
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[Elecraft] K1 Low power output on one band

[Paul Barlow]

Dear Elecrafters,

I'd like some advice before I go delving into something and making it worse! I 
have taken my 4 band K1 out of storage. It is set up for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m. 
It also has the auto ATU. On checking it out I find output as expected on 40m & 
30m - 5W set gives 5W out on my dummy load. But on 20m I'm only getting about 
1W out for 5W set, on 15m I get an indicated 4W.

My first guess is that I need to revisit the tuning of the trimmers on the 
filter board of the 15m and 20m (the manual reminds me to trim 15m first) bands.

I need to remove the ATU to do this and I find in my manual a cryptic note to 
say I need to move a jumper on P3. I think that will then route the RF to the 
antenna rather than to the not connected ATU.

Any more advice would be helpful before I dive in.

73,

Paul EI5KI


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[Ingo Meyer DK3RED]

Hello Dave,



I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output 
before listing it.  Power output is as follows:

40 meters 5.2 watts
30 meters 4.5 watts
20 meters   1.3 watts
17 meters 0.7 watts

These are obviously not the expected power output levels.  Power supply voltage 
= 12.8 volts.  Output set to 7 in the menu.

What type of fault would this indicate?


All components for the filters for 40 meters and 30 meters filters are located between 
same contacts sides of K5A/K5B and K6A/K6B. The components for 20 meters and 17 meters are 
located all on the other sides of these relais contacts.


I therefore advise you to check the contacts of these relays as a first step. If you have 
switched the K1 to 40 meters or 30 meters, zero ohms should be measurable with an ohmmeter 
across the contact.



73/72 de Ingo, DK3RED - Don't forget: the fun is the power!
www.qrp4fun.de - dk3...@qrp4fun.de
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[DAVID MOORMAN]

Numbers using the Elecraft 20 watt dummy load rather than resonated antennas:

40 M   4.8 W
30 M   5.5 W
20 M2.0 W
15 M1.7 W

Dave  K9SW


> On May 11, 2023, at 6:52 PM, DAVID MOORMAN  wrote:
> 
> I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output 
> before listing it.  Power output is as follows:
> 
> 40 meters 5.2 watts
> 30 meters 4.5 watts
> 20 meters 1.3 watts
> 17 meters 0.7 watts
> 
> These are obviously not the expected power output levels.  Power supply 
> voltage = 12.8 volts.  Output set to 7 in the menu.  
> 
> What type of fault would this indicate?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave  K9SW
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 power output

[Vincent Shu]

Hello David,

The same issue also exists in my two K1. Waiting for help
73,

Vincent BH5HTF
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[Elecraft] K1 power output

[DAVID MOORMAN]

I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output 
before listing it.  Power output is as follows:

40 meters 5.2 watts
30 meters 4.5 watts
20 meters   1.3 watts
17 meters 0.7 watts

These are obviously not the expected power output levels.  Power supply voltage 
= 12.8 volts.  Output set to 7 in the menu.  

What type of fault would this indicate?

Thanks,

Dave  K9SW
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[Elecraft] K1 elecraft kit for sale

[Todd Burnham via Elecraft]

This kit has been started only a few steps done on filter board. Rest is sealed 
never opened. Venmo ok or PayPal friends. Asking 450 shipped conus. W3tsb Todd 
Burnham 73

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and KX3 for sale

[Randall Wood]

The K1 is sold.

On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 9:53 PM Randall Wood  wrote:

> Good evening all,
>
> I have both a K1 and a KX3 for sale.
>
> Please reach out for details.
>
> Thanks!
> Randy KE8JWB
>
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[Elecraft] K1 and KX3 for sale

[Randall Wood]

Good evening all,

I have both a K1 and a KX3 for sale. 

Please reach out for details.

Thanks!
Randy KE8JWB 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 accessories

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

That is quite feasible - getting a board is the starting problem.

If you can find a 2 band board for any band(s), you can order the 
crystals for the bands you want from Elecraft.
They may also have the K1 band kits in stock which have the capacitors 
required for that band.  Worst case, you may have to order the 
capacitors separately if Elecraft no longer has the K1 band kits.
If Elecraft no longer has the crystals, you may have to order custom 
crystals - they must be fundamental mode crystals - overtone mode will 
not work properly.
See the K1 band kit instructions for the components required. Download 
the instructions from Elecraft website.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/1/2022 7:50 PM, Chris Chapman wrote:

Hello all,

I've been able to buy a K1 here in VK.  It is in excellent condition (Ser. No 3380) 
and has 20 & 40m only.

I know Elecraft stopped supporting some time ago and accessories etc are pretty much 
discontinued.  I'm interested in getting 15 & 17m band modules - can anyone offer any 
thoughts on where I might ask around - or advertise a "wanted"  Other than 
eHam.net.

Thanks in advance,

Chris VK3QB
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[Elecraft] K1 accessories

[Chris Chapman]

Hello all,

I've been able to buy a K1 here in VK.  It is in excellent condition (Ser. No 
3380) and has 20 & 40m only.

I know Elecraft stopped supporting some time ago and accessories etc are pretty 
much discontinued.  I'm interested in getting 15 & 17m band modules - can 
anyone offer any thoughts on where I might ask around - or advertise a 
"wanted"  Other than eHam.net.

Thanks in advance,

Chris VK3QB
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[Elecraft] K1 (nice condition) for sale, posting for a friend

[Jim Sheldon]

Anyone here looking for a 4 band K1 (40/30/20/15) with battery, tuner, 
and zero-beat indicator.  It's in excellent condition and also includes 
cover, adjustable stand, manual, backlight, and was aligned by Don, 
W3FPR.  The zero-beat indicator circuit is from K6XX. He's asking $400.  
I do not know yet if that includes shipping, but I'm assuming he would 
rather ship only within the US.


He's not a member of this reflector, but we've been friends for many 
years and I said I'd post this for him.  If anyone is interested you can 
contact him directly.  His name is Ron Pfeiffer, W2CTX and his email 
address is w2...@yahoo.com


I have pictures posted on my website as hidden files so use these links 
to see them.  www.w0eb.com/W2CTX_K1_Front.jpg  and 
www.w0eb.com/W2CTX_K1_Rear.jpg to see them.


Thanks for looking and please contact Ron directly for further 
information - mention that you saw my post so he knows your request is 
legit please.  Or, alternatively, you can contact me and I'll pass your 
email on to Ron for him to contact you.


Jim Sheldon, W0EB

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[Elecraft] K1 Question

[Paul Kirley]

Tony K2MO asked:

I noticed that the VFO on my 4-band K1 doesn't tune above 14062 and
 21061.0 yet it tunes to 7068.6 on 40 meters. The tuning range on 30
 meters is 85 kHz (10077 to 10162) so I'm assuming the rig had the
 smaller tuning range crystal installed. Tuning range on 40 meters is:
 6986 to 7068.6.

So the question is: how can I shift the tuning range on 20 and 15 meters
 so I can tune above 062 and 061 on 14 and 21 MHz? The current tuning
 range is 13077 to 14062 on 20 meters and 20976 to 21061.0 on 15 meters.



I recommend that you download the K1 manual if you don't have one for your rig:
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K1/Manuals%20Downloads/E740016%20K1%20manual%20rev%20J.pdf
On page 38 of this manual is the information that you need.

First, the size of the tuning range is set by the choice of capacitor C2 on the 
RF board.  This also affects the tuning rate and possibly the drift rate.

Second, the lower end of the tuning range is set by squeezing or spreading the 
turns on the big toroid L1.  I think that the VFO tunes backward (K1 output up 
as VFO down), so you may want to squeeze the turns.  But read the manual to be 
sure.  Keep in mind that page 38 of the manual is part of the assembly 
instructions; you may need to remove some parts of the K1 (like the band 
module) before adjusting L1.  Or maybe you can tweak L1 a bit, then check the 
effect on the K1's output frequencies and repeat.

Third, per-band differences in output frequencies result from differences in 
the frequencies of the crystals on the band module from their nominal values.  
I believe that these are unavoidable.  If you want to cover the bottom edge of 
each band, your measurements suggest that 40 meters is the band to watch.  If 
that's not a concern, you may be able to move the frequency coverages up more 
than 14 kHz.

73, Paul W8TM

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[Elecraft] K1 Question

[Tony]

All:

I noticed that the VFO on my 4-band K1 doesn't tune above 14062 and 
21061.0 yet it tunes to 7068.6 on 40 meters. The tuning range on 30 
meters is 85 kHz (10077 to 10162) so I'm assuming the rig had the 
smaller tuning range crystal installed. Tuning range on 40 meters is: 
6986 to 7068.6.


So the question is: how can I shift the tuning range on 20 and 15 meters 
so I can tune above 062 and 061 on 14 and 21 MHz? The current tuning 
range is 13077 to 14062 on 20 meters and 20976 to 21061.0 on 15 meters.


Thanks, Tony -K2MO

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[Elecraft] Power Increase Elecraft K1 modification

[Ken Brown]

Elecraft K1 modifications
Searching for K1 modifications, I found JL3AMK and his website
for Power increased on an Elecraft K1.
Refers to page 79 in the Elecraft manual, DRIVER Q6, 2SC2166.
Resistor 30 is attached to Q6.

Is this a safe or recommended mod?
Did you perform the modification?
***
http://www.jl3amk.org/en/
Power Increased

The output power of my K1 was four watts on 15 meters, so I added a
 0.001uF capacitor (as a bypass) in parallel with R30 on the RF board.

160m: 10W (not changed)
80m: 10W (not changed)
17m: 7W (from 6W)
15m: 7W (from 4W)

Ken
Elecraft K1  15 meters
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker

[SteveL]

Another possibility which I thought looked interesting and has some unique 
features:

https://www.wolfwave.co.uk <https://www.wolfwave.co.uk/> 
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/sbm-wolfwave 
<https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/sbm-wolfwave>

Steve
AA8AF

> On Dec 8, 2021, at 8:30 PM, Ken Brown  wrote:
> 
> I recently had the question on the Elecraft K1.
> - looking to buy an already built K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
> 
> And here is the best answer to adding a noise blanker.
> 
> http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=clr_dsp
> 
> CLRdsp ClearSpeech® DSP Noise Reduction Processor $220 plus shipping
> 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker

[Ken Brown]

I recently had the question on the Elecraft K1.
- looking to buy an already built K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.

And here is the best answer to adding a noise blanker.

http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=clr_dsp

CLRdsp ClearSpeech® DSP Noise Reduction Processor $220 plus shipping

#58407-949

Ken
Elecraft K1 260





elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

I can't math !

Correct my #'s below.

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca] 
Sent: December 4, 2021 2:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

As a follow up to Don's great advice, I had a few spare moments today while I 
was relaxing from some physical labour so decided to crack open the wee little 
K1 and take his advice.

I compressed the turns on L1 (whoa, is it ever finicky!) but after some playing 
around my tuning is now:

20m- - -13.918MHz - 14.0796MHz
40m - - - 6.978MHz  - 7.0858 MHz

I seem to have a little more than the spec'd 80kHz of tuning range, but not as 
much as the 150kHz of some kits.  I have no history on this thing, but it's all 
good.
I am very happy with these results.  As long as it won't drift above the lower 
band edge on 40m once it's warmed up, I think I am going to just leave it be 
for now.

Thanks Don !

Mike VE9AA




Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB

-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 6:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Thank you very much Don !

This is exactly the type of FB information I was looking for.

I rec'd a few emails telling me to calibrate it, however the VFO reads right 
smack dab on perfect, so I didn't
wish to mess with it by redoing something that may not help.

I'll probably just leave it (at least for now), but your info is very much 
appreciated and I'll save it for a rainy day perhaps.  
The only time I would ever make a QSO above 7068 or 14063 would be in a 
contest, and this would not be the rig I'd be contesting with, hi

I have a ton of other rigs (some Elecrafts tooKX3, KX2(on order) and a K3) 
and some Japanese rigs too.All are much better suited to contesting.

This lil' guy will see light duty as a Motorcycle mobile (portable, really) rig 
for Parks or Islands on the air and the occasional Wednesday "CWT" (an activity 
event like a contest).  I like its simplicity and very small size.  Good for 
the Harley.

Thanks again Don and all.

What a great bunch !

Maybe see some of you (all of a sudden!) in CQWW CW this weekend.  I'll be 15m 
single band.

Mike VE9AA

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 5:52 PM
To: Mike Smith VE9AA; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.

You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).

In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.

Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
> Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
>
> NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
>
>   
>
> So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
> before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
>
>   
>
> on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
>
>   
>
> and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz
>
>   
>
> When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
> just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
> stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.
>
>   
>
> So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
> or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??
>
>   
>
> I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
> usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
> range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)
>
>   
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

I can't math !

Correct my #'s below.

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca] 
Sent: December 4, 2021 2:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

As a follow up to Don's great advice, I had a few spare moments today while I 
was relaxing from some physical labour so decided to crack open the wee little 
K1 and take his advice.

I compressed the turns on L1 (whoa, is it ever finicky!) but after some playing 
around my tuning is now:

20m- - -13.918MHz - 14.0796MHz
40m - - - 6.978MHz  - 7.0858 MHz

I seem to have a little more than the spec'd 80kHz of tuning range, but not as 
much as the 150kHz of some kits.  I have no history on this thing, but it's all 
good.
I am very happy with these results.  As long as it won't drift above the lower 
band edge on 40m once it's warmed up, I think I am going to just leave it be 
for now.

Thanks Don !

Mike VE9AA




Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB

-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 6:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Thank you very much Don !

This is exactly the type of FB information I was looking for.

I rec'd a few emails telling me to calibrate it, however the VFO reads right 
smack dab on perfect, so I didn't
wish to mess with it by redoing something that may not help.

I'll probably just leave it (at least for now), but your info is very much 
appreciated and I'll save it for a rainy day perhaps.  
The only time I would ever make a QSO above 7068 or 14063 would be in a 
contest, and this would not be the rig I'd be contesting with, hi

I have a ton of other rigs (some Elecrafts tooKX3, KX2(on order) and a K3) 
and some Japanese rigs too.All are much better suited to contesting.

This lil' guy will see light duty as a Motorcycle mobile (portable, really) rig 
for Parks or Islands on the air and the occasional Wednesday "CWT" (an activity 
event like a contest).  I like its simplicity and very small size.  Good for 
the Harley.

Thanks again Don and all.

What a great bunch !

Maybe see some of you (all of a sudden!) in CQWW CW this weekend.  I'll be 15m 
single band.

Mike VE9AA

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 5:52 PM
To: Mike Smith VE9AA; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.

You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).

In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.

Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
> Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
>
> NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
>
>   
>
> So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
> before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
>
>   
>
> on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
>
>   
>
> and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz
>
>   
>
> When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
> just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
> stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.
>
>   
>
> So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
> or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??
>
>   
>
> I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
> usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
> range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)
>
>   
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Sounds pretty similar to what I did.  The white rectangle in my photo is a 
piece of white sticker vinyl stuck to the PCB under the area where the LCD 
mounts  The two LEDs were sanded down with a Dremel tool and sanding drum to 
get the light to diffuse and also to make them small enough to shine behind the 
LCD panel.  The two LEDs and a 680ohm current limiting resistor are all wired 
in series and draw a total of ~12ma off the 12V supply.  Parts and wires are 
held in place by dabs of hot glue. 

Here's a closeup of an original and modified LED. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vsf64g05jgc4mbl/100_0054.JPG?dl=0




On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 11:09:25 AM MST, David Gilbert 
 wrote:  
 
 
I made my own backlight for my K1 before the Elecraft version came out.  
It was actually more of a sidelight, but it works fine.  I took a white 
LED, sanded the plastic case to make it more diffusive, and fed it off 
the 12 volt buss with a current source made from a gate-source connected 
FET.  It wasn't difficult to do.

I don't remember which FET I used, but an LM334 (very inexpensive TO-92 
current source IC) and a 1/4 watt resistor would work even better, and 
today's LEDs are certainly much brighter than the ones I had available 
back when I did this.  Better choice of colors as well.  ;)

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/4/2021 8:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Ken,
>
> The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
> the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 
> strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>>   Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
>> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>>
>> Ken
>> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>>
>
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> Message delivered to ab7e...@gmail.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[David Gilbert]

I made my own backlight for my K1 before the Elecraft version came out.  
It was actually more of a sidelight, but it works fine.  I took a white 
LED, sanded the plastic case to make it more diffusive, and fed it off 
the 12 volt buss with a current source made from a gate-source connected 
FET.  It wasn't difficult to do.


I don't remember which FET I used, but an LM334 (very inexpensive TO-92 
current source IC) and a 1/4 watt resistor would work even better, and 
today's LEDs are certainly much brighter than the ones I had available 
back when I did this.  Better choice of colors as well.  ;)


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/4/2021 8:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 
strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:

  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

As a follow up to Don's great advice, I had a few spare moments today while I 
was relaxing from some physical labour so decided to crack open the wee little 
K1 and take his advice.

I compressed the turns on L1 (whoa, is it ever finicky!) but after some playing 
around my tuning is now:

20m- - -13.0918MHz - 14.0796MHz
40m - - - 6.978MHz  - 7.0858 MHz

I seem to have a little more than the spec'd 80kHz of tuning range, but not as 
much as the 150kHz of some kits.  I have no history on this thing, but it's all 
good.
I am very happy with these results.  As long as it won't drift above the lower 
band edge on 40m once it's warmed up, I think I am going to just leave it be 
for now.

Thanks Don !

Mike VE9AA




Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB

-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 6:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Thank you very much Don !

This is exactly the type of FB information I was looking for.

I rec'd a few emails telling me to calibrate it, however the VFO reads right 
smack dab on perfect, so I didn't
wish to mess with it by redoing something that may not help.

I'll probably just leave it (at least for now), but your info is very much 
appreciated and I'll save it for a rainy day perhaps.  
The only time I would ever make a QSO above 7068 or 14063 would be in a 
contest, and this would not be the rig I'd be contesting with, hi

I have a ton of other rigs (some Elecrafts tooKX3, KX2(on order) and a K3) 
and some Japanese rigs too.All are much better suited to contesting.

This lil' guy will see light duty as a Motorcycle mobile (portable, really) rig 
for Parks or Islands on the air and the occasional Wednesday "CWT" (an activity 
event like a contest).  I like its simplicity and very small size.  Good for 
the Harley.

Thanks again Don and all.

What a great bunch !

Maybe see some of you (all of a sudden!) in CQWW CW this weekend.  I'll be 15m 
single band.

Mike VE9AA

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 5:52 PM
To: Mike Smith VE9AA; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.

You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).

In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.

Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
> Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
>
> NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
>
>   
>
> So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
> before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
>
>   
>
> on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
>
>   
>
> and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz
>
>   
>
> When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
> just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
> stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.
>
>   
>
> So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
> or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??
>
>   
>
> I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
> usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
> range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)
>
>   
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I did a backlight on my K1 ~20 years ago that worked out well. The key was 
getting a transreflective LCD panel so the light would show through. The 
original panel was opaque.  Here's a couple of pix:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pu01s46xylba2se/100_0047.JPG?dl=0 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6u7ggpfl65p9l4w/K1%20LCD%20LED%20sm.JPG?dl=0
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 09:00:13 AM MST, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>
> Ken
> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Don Wilhelm]

Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:

  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260



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[Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Ken Brown]

 Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Mike Markowski]

Remember one of the early Elecraft web page descriptions?  Former 
Heathkit engineer (chief engr?, I forget) wrote a letter praising kit 
and radio.  An unbeatable ad!


73,

Mike ab3ap

On 11/30/21 8:50 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

...
The K1 is a great little rig.  I built the 2- band version, and then the
4-band filter board, with all options.  It still works like a champ.

73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Eric Norris]

I wish I could!  My vague memory is that Don Wilhelm pointed me to a couple
of mods.  A search of my emails didn't find any of Don's advice prior to
2017, and I think that is about 5 years short.

I suggest you google it, and check the Nabble archives.  The mods were
simple, changing a cap and perhaps a resistor value or something.

The K1 is a great little rig.  I built the 2- band version, and then the
4-band filter board, with all options.  It still works like a champ.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021, 4:10 PM Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Hi Eric.
>
> Can you be more specific about the mod that improved the KNB1? I know
> there were a few changes early on, but mine is from about 2010 so should
> have had all the official mods in the initial build. Other than the “make
> the threshold higher than it already is” mod, is there something else?
>
> Doug, W0UHU.
>
> > Message: 26
> > Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> > From: Eric Norris  norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> > To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> > Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net>>
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and
> >   working
> > Message-ID:
> >ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com <mailto:CAJSJeL23WBXMn_rWUqF6KRoGAF2yNBCu_JnH2k
> =ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com>>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> >
> > When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
> > vastly helped mine.
> >
> > 73 Eric WD6DBM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hi Eric.

Can you be more specific about the mod that improved the KNB1? I know there 
were a few changes early on, but mine is from about 2010 so should have had all 
the official mods in the initial build. Other than the “make the threshold 
higher than it already is” mod, is there something else?

Doug, W0UHU.

> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> From: Eric Norris mailto:norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  <mailto:ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and
>   working
> Message-ID:
><mailto:CAJSJeL23WBXMn_rWUqF6KRoGAF2yNBCu_JnH2k=ahu_-jxd...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
> vastly helped mine.
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Eric Norris]

When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
vastly helped mine.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021, 7:50 PM Ken Brown  wrote:

> I am looking to buy an already built Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
> The pulse noise from the nearby power lines makes the Elecraft K1
> not very usable at this location.
>
> Ken
> N4SO
> E-mail  redscarlette7...@gmail.com
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[Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Ken Brown]

I am looking to buy an already built Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
The pulse noise from the nearby power lines makes the Elecraft K1
not very usable at this location.

Ken
N4SO
E-mail  redscarlette7...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

Thank you very much Don !

This is exactly the type of FB information I was looking for.

I rec'd a few emails telling me to calibrate it, however the VFO reads right 
smack dab on perfect, so I didn't
wish to mess with it by redoing something that may not help.

I'll probably just leave it (at least for now), but your info is very much 
appreciated and I'll save it for a rainy day perhaps.  
The only time I would ever make a QSO above 7068 or 14063 would be in a 
contest, and this would not be the rig I'd be contesting with, hi

I have a ton of other rigs (some Elecrafts tooKX3, KX2(on order) and a K3) 
and some Japanese rigs too.All are much better suited to contesting.

This lil' guy will see light duty as a Motorcycle mobile (portable, really) rig 
for Parks or Islands on the air and the occasional Wednesday "CWT" (an activity 
event like a contest).  I like its simplicity and very small size.  Good for 
the Harley.

Thanks again Don and all.

What a great bunch !

Maybe see some of you (all of a sudden!) in CQWW CW this weekend.  I'll be 15m 
single band.

Mike VE9AA

Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com] 
Sent: November 26, 2021 5:52 PM
To: Mike Smith VE9AA; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.

You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).

In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.

Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
> Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
>
> NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
>
>   
>
> So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
> before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
>
>   
>
> on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
>
>   
>
> and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz
>
>   
>
> When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
> just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
> stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.
>
>   
>
> So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
> or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??
>
>   
>
> I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
> usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
> range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)
>
>   
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.


You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).


In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.


Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:

Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.

NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.

  


So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:

  


on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz

  


and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz

  


When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.

  


So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??

  


I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)

  





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Brian Hunt]

I think what you are seeing is probably typical. I have a K1-4 that tunes down 
to 6988 and 13982 on 40 and 20 respectively. My tuning range is a little wider 
at 93 kHz. 

The Owner’s Manual has a detailed section on VFO alignment. If you didn’t get a 
manual with the radio you can probably download one from Elecraft. 

Good luck and have fun with this little beauty. 

73,
Brian, K0DTJ

> On Nov 26, 2021, at 12:18, Mike Smith VE9AA  wrote:
> 
> Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
> 
> NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
> 
> 
> 
> So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
> before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
> 
> 
> 
> on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
> 
> 
> 
> and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz
> 
> 
> 
> When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
> just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
> stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on. 
> 
> 
> 
> So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
> or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
> usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
> range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)
> 
> 
> 
> Ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> TIA !
> 
> 
> 
> 73 Mike VE9AA  
> 
> 
> 
> Mike, Coreen & Corey
> 
> Keswick Ridge, NB
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Mine that I built around 20 years ago tunes:
40m 6999.9 - 7088.820m 13994.2 - 14083.4

See page 28 of the manual.  The tuning range depends on the value of C2.  The 
range can be further adjusted by the number and spacing of turns on L1.
It would be a good idea to go through a complete alignment on the rig, 
especially to ensure RX offset agrees with with TX/displayed freq (C13, page 
47). 

Lou W7HV. 
On Friday, November 26, 2021, 01:19:42 PM MST, Mike Smith VE9AA 
 wrote:  
 
 Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.

NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.

 

So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:

 

on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz

 

and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz

 

When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on. 

 

So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??

 

I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)

 

Ideas?

 

TIA !

 

73 Mike VE9AA  

 

Mike, Coreen & Corey

Keswick Ridge, NB

 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.

NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.

 

So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:

 

on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz

 

and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz

 

When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on. 

 

So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??

 

I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)

 

Ideas?

 

TIA !

 

73 Mike VE9AA  

 

Mike, Coreen & Corey

Keswick Ridge, NB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Reduce power when tuning K1?

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

The reduced power is a consideration for the internal tuner relays, not 
just for the PA transistors.
If you have the internal tuner installed, that power reduction is 
automatic.  For the K2/10, it is 2 watts and for the K1 it is 1.5 watts.

If you are using an external tuner, then manually reduce the power.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 8/30/2021 12:23 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about 
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1 
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a 
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two of 
them in a push-pull configuration that can put out more power and can work with 
SSB. But at 5 watts, I would think the K2 transistors would be less stressed 
than the K1’s.

Is it worth manually setting the K1 power down to a lower level when tuning, in 
order to avoid power transistor problems? Both my radios have the internal 
tuner options.




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[Elecraft] [K1] Reduce power when tuning K1?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about 
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1 
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a 
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two of 
them in a push-pull configuration that can put out more power and can work with 
SSB. But at 5 watts, I would think the K2 transistors would be less stressed 
than the K1’s.

Is it worth manually setting the K1 power down to a lower level when tuning, in 
order to avoid power transistor problems? Both my radios have the internal 
tuner options.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K1 filter board relays

[d_zank via Elecraft]

HiSo I am trying to get my old K1  back up and running.   Two, 2 band modules, 
80/40 and 20/15 and b1 on each was dead.   No oscillator signal at pin 4 on P1, 
b2 fine. Replaced X1 crystals on both boards because the boards had been in 
storage and bounced around. No change until I tapped on K1 relay then b1 
started working on 80/40 but b2 stopped.  Now I am suspecting relay problems 
although ohm meter checks look ok. Just wondering if anyone has similar 
experience with the relays on the filter board.S/N 02134. Thanks Don AA9WP Sent 
from my Galaxy
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[Elecraft] For Sale: Elecraft K1

[Doug Hensley]

The KAT100/KPA100 is sold as is the K2.

The beautiful little K1 is still available.

Cheers,

Doug W5JV




Visit https://www.qrz.com/db/W5JV for some great vacuum tube finds.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
The link in the email you sent is similar to what I did.  It did not work with 
the original LCD.   Putting a white sheet behind the original LCD did nothing 
as it was opaque. I had to get a transreflective one, the key here is it's 
translucent to permit back-lighting.  It was long ago and I don't have the info 
where I got it.  IDK, but it is possible that production switched to using the 
transreflective type at some point.  I'll pm you some pix. 

Lou W7HV

On Sunday, May 16, 2021, 8:09:37 AM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 > On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft  
 > wrote:
> 
> If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
> before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, 
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
> transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back 
> then. 


Morning Lou,

I looked on the Elecraft site and the part number for the transreflective LCD 
is E600015. A search for that part number on the site turned up nothing. So 
they don’t appear to be stocking that part anymore. 

If someone reading the reflector knows the source for that part, I will see if 
I can find one. If not, I found this approach — https://bit.ly/3fgvtL2 — to 
adding a backlight to a built K1. With a little tinkering, the latter should 
work as well.

Thanks Lou!

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[David Thompson via Elecraft]

> On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
> before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, 
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
> transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back 
> then. 


Morning Lou,

I looked on the Elecraft site and the part number for the transreflective LCD 
is E600015. A search for that part number on the site turned up nothing. So 
they don’t appear to be stocking that part anymore. 

If someone reading the reflector knows the source for that part, I will see if 
I can find one. If not, I found this approach — https://bit.ly/3fgvtL2 — to 
adding a backlight to a built K1. With a little tinkering, the latter should 
work as well.

Thanks Lou!

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, two 
leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back then. 
I tried the mod with original LCD and it didn't work  IDK if later ones came 
standard with the transreflective LCD.  If you have or can get a 
transreflective LCD, I'd be happy to describe the mod and email some photos 
that detail the mod and show the results.
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, May 15, 2021, 8:14:08 PM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Good evening all,

I’m looking for a LCD backlight kit for the K1. I don’t see it listed on the 
Elecraft site anymore and am kicking myself for not picking one up sooner.

If anyone has a kit that is no longer needed, I would be interested. Please 
contact me off-list.

73 de AG7TX...

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net






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[Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[David Thompson via Elecraft]

Good evening all,

I’m looking for a LCD backlight kit for the K1. I don’t see it listed on the 
Elecraft site anymore and am kicking myself for not picking one up sooner.

If anyone has a kit that is no longer needed, I would be interested. Please 
contact me off-list.

73 de AG7TX...

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net






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[Elecraft] K1 Kit For Sale

[Byron Tatum]

Hello-       For sale is an unassembled very early K1 kit purchased by myself 
way back when from Elecraft, SN-63. I had just finished assembling my first K2 
and was eager to get on the K1 but it never happened. The kit has sat in the 
box undisturbed in an air conditioned, non smoking, non pet home just as it 
came from Elecraft since I received it. I am selling this kit to put towards 
other Elecraft gear.    The firmware is Rev. V1.05 The manual is Rev. C, 
Oct. 9, 2000 Included is all original paperwork and receipts that came with 
kit. The options that are included with this kit are:
1. Two band module for 40, 202. KNB1 Noise Blanker3. Wide range tilt stand4. 
KAT1 Antenna tuner with FW V1.305. Four band module KFL1-4 for 40, 30,20, 17 
(has blue trimmers)6. K1UPKT upgrade kitPrice is 750.00 plus 
shipping/insurance. My cell # is 936-349-6353 if you want to talk about the 
kit.Thanks,  Byron W5FH
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[Elecraft] PRICE REDUCTIONRe: Elecraft K1 40/30/20/15, ATU, NB and visible tuning indicator

[PAUL GACEK via Elecraft]

Its hard to fairly price used gear.

My new price for this is $385 (down fro $475) plus $15 shipping.

Paul

> On Oct 25, 2020, at 12:15 PM, PAUL GACEK via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Trying to rationalize my radio collection and I am not really a CW guy. 
> 
> Operates on all bands and puts out 5w+. Speaker, headphones, keyer etc work 
> fine.
> 
> Has the FL-4 configured for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m.
> 
> ATU and NB installed and working.
> 
> K6XX visible tuning indicator.
> 
> $475 plus $15 shipping via USPS to US destination only.
> 
> Paul
> W6PNG/M0SNA
> www.nomadic.blog
> 
> 
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> Message delivered to paul.ga...@mac.com 

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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K1 40/30/20/15, ATU, NB and visible tuning indicator

[PAUL GACEK via Elecraft]

Hi all,


Trying to rationalize my radio collection and I am not really a CW guy. 

Operates on all bands and puts out 5w+. Speaker, headphones, keyer etc work 
fine.

Has the FL-4 configured for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m.

ATU and NB installed and working.

K6XX visible tuning indicator.

$475 plus $15 shipping via USPS to US destination only.

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA
www.nomadic.blog


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Fred KF9GX at FAR Circuits does have them, they're four bucks each plus 3.50 
for shipping up to ten. (Possibly more outside the US.) Thanks Don for pointing 
this out!



I believe it's the SMD version which is fun to assemble if you're a masochist! 
If someone gets around to ordering the parts to go along with the board, it 
would be great if they could post the list here. I believe the chip is obsolete 
but still available.



m...@farcircuits.net


Doug, W0UHU.



Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 13:32:47 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: k7...@aol.com, grazi...@roccon.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1
Message-ID: <8fc24f9f-1159-7d83-6c8a-0537bb48a...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available. Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards. An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though 
it.?http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73? ??Jim H??k7sss?In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes:
Hello,?someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it 
??Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Don Wilhelm]

Thanks Kent,

I already have that in my bookmarks and refer to it often.
Thanks to you and your club (especially Jim Biggerstaff) for maintaining 
the website contents.

There is a lot of value there, especially for K1 and K2 owners.
I also have much of the information here on my networked hard drive.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 3:53 PM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:

Hi Don . . .

For your future quick reference, and anybody else who might want it, 
the direct link to the NØSS (Tom Hammond) articles on our club's 
website is:


http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
NØSS Trustee
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, MO



On 10/15/2020 12:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom 
Hammond was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has 
preserved the content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits 
for his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[KENT TRIMBLE]

Hi Don . . .

For your future quick reference, and anybody else who might want it, the 
direct link to the NØSS (Tom Hammond) articles on our club's website is:


http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
NØSS Trustee
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, MO



On 10/15/2020 12:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom 
Hammond was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has 
preserved the content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits 
for his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


73,
Don W3FPR




--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have two of these kits, unbuilt. I never got around to installing one in my 
K2. I would be willing to let go of one of them...

Anybody know what they sold for back in '07 I guess?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 12:32 PM
To: k7...@aol.com ; grazi...@roccon.com ; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
> http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73Jim H  k7sss In a 
> message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> grazi...@roccon.com writes:
> Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
> the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
> Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Don Wilhelm]

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom Hammond 
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the 
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for 
his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73    Jim H  k7sss In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes:
Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Jim H via Elecraft]

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73    Jim H  k7sss In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes: 
Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 power realignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Al,

You will have to remove the ATU.  Install the jumper in band board J8 
between pins 1 and 8.


If your K1 does not have a "K1/ATU" switch next to the BNC jack, you 
will have to re-install R36 on the bottom of the board - it should have 
been left with one leg still soldered.


The lack of R36 connection is likely what is causing the difference 
between the OUT parameter and the actual power out.


Be certain you connect a dummy load - do not use an antenna.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/12/2020 6:00 AM, W4RAM wrote:

I want to realign the output of my K1, the radio has an internal antenna
tuner. The reason is because I check the radio is not coming out with the
proper power (test performed with dummy load and PWR-SWR meter Daiwa). "OUT"
is at 2.0W, and I can see, on the power meter, 1W.
I proceeded by removing the antenna tunner module, to be able to access L1,
... L6 (filter board for 40/20 mts band). However after this, when I try to
calibrate the RF filters, I can only get 0.1 W when I put the K1 in tune
mode. I check again the "OUT", and I stay 2W.
If I reinstall the internal antenna tuner, the radio returns to the initial
behavior (only 1W when "OUT" has been set to 2.0W).
Can someone guide me on how I should perform the power realignment process?.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 power realignment

[W4RAM]

I want to realign the output of my K1, the radio has an internal antenna
tuner. The reason is because I check the radio is not coming out with the
proper power (test performed with dummy load and PWR-SWR meter Daiwa). "OUT"
is at 2.0W, and I can see, on the power meter, 1W.
I proceeded by removing the antenna tunner module, to be able to access L1,
... L6 (filter board for 40/20 mts band). However after this, when I try to
calibrate the RF filters, I can only get 0.1 W when I put the K1 in tune
mode. I check again the "OUT", and I stay 2W.
If I reinstall the internal antenna tuner, the radio returns to the initial
behavior (only 1W when "OUT" has been set to 2.0W).
Can someone guide me on how I should perform the power realignment process?.

Thank you

Al
W4RAM



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[Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[Paul Kirley]

Does your attenuator LED exhibit the same behavior?  If so, check the menu LED 
setting:  they can be turned off to save battery.

73, Paul W8TM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[David Gilbert]

Not necessarily.  If the LED is shorted (admittedly a less likely 
possibility) it won't have any (or at least very little) voltage across 
it ... just as if its drive circuitry was bad.


Having been an engineer responsible for some LED product lines in the 
long distant past, I would say that the most likely faults would be an 
open LED (bad wire bond) or some fault in the drive circuitry, but a 
crystal fault could also cause a short in the LED.


73,
Dave   AB7E



On 7/9/2020 9:34 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That 
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.

Victor 4X6GP


On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM  wrote:

Good morning,
I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:

D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
solution is just change the led.

Thank you for your advice and assistance.

Al
W4RAM




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That 
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM  wrote:
> 
> Good morning,
> I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:
> 
> D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
> function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
> I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
> This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
> solution is just change the led.
> 
> Thank you for your advice and assistance.
> 
> Al
> W4RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K1 D1 LED issue

[W4RAM]

Good morning,
I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:

D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
This problem may seem simple to fix, however, and I'm not sure if the
solution is just change the led.

Thank you for your advice and assistance.

Al
W4RAM




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[Elecraft] Wanted: Elecraft K1

[Tony]

All:

I'm looking for an Elecraft K1 with a late serial number. Will pay top 
dollar for mint condition unit with tuner and clean build.


Email direct.

Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

The quickest way to do the alignment is to use an RF Probe or an 
oscilloscope with a 10X probe.


First probe band board P1 pin 6 and peak for maximum RF on both bands. 
The can be done in receive.

Then connect a dummy load and do a TUNE at about 1.5 watts.
Connect a probe to band board P2 pin 8.  First on band 1, adjust L5 and 
L6 for a peak - then refine the adjustment of L1 and L2 to maximize that 
peak.
Do the same for Band 2 - adjust L7 and L8 for a peak, and then refine 
the adjustment of L3 and L4.


Do you have power output?  refine the adjustment of L7 and L8 on Band 2 
and adjusting for maximum power - an external QRP wattmeter is handy for 
that step.


Switch to Band 1 and refine the adjustment of L5 and L6 for maximum 
power output.


When you have done that, the band board has been aligned the best it can 
be.  If you still have a receive problem it is somewhere other than the 
band board.


I am not sure what you mean by "C2 Gain tweek" -- C2 is a fixed 
capacitor in the VFO.  If you meant C20, then that shifts the BFO, and 
it should be set to center the signal in your receive passband.
You can adjust C20 - while receiving your local signal, adjust the VFO 
to maximize the signal, without regard for the pitch (do this with the 
narrowest K1 filter set).  After doing that, adjust C20 so that you hear 
the signal at your preferred pitch.  Make sure the sidetone (in the 
menu) is set for that same pitch.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/20/2020 3:47 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Bert]

Hi Steve,

Is the problem on both 20 and 40? If only one band check the band
crystal on the filter board.

C2 on the filter board is a fixed cap - no tweaking! ;-)

Also check connectors J6 and J7 on filter board. Bad connection - use
some DeOxit5 cleaner.

Start with alignment according to the manual, if you haven't done that.

Good luck!

Bert VE3NR




On 2020-06-20 15:47, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6

I pulled the band board looking for any issues with soldering or whatever and 
found
nothing. Put the board back in and now I get zip. No receive at all, just 
hissing.

It was working fine yesterday although I felt the gain was very low and needed 
adjustment
which led me to this point in time.

Suggestions on how to get it going again?

73
Steve, W1SFR


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[Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6

I pulled the band board looking for any issues with soldering or whatever and 
found 
nothing. Put the board back in and now I get zip. No receive at all, just 
hissing.

It was working fine yesterday although I felt the gain was very low and needed 
adjustment
which led me to this point in time.

Suggestions on how to get it going again?

73
Steve, W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Vic Rosenthal]

Measuring the inductance is not a good approach unless you have a way of 
measuring it at a specific frequency. The toroid material’s effect on the 
inductance of the finished coil varies with frequency, and most LC meters use a 
frequency below the HF range. 

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 30 May 2020, at 0:16, Paul Gacek via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> John
> 
> Fair question as to why not.
> 
> I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
> matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance. 
> 
> That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
> and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).
> 
> I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
> alignment, I’ll make the correction.
> 
> For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
> installing them.
> 
> Paul
> 
>> On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:
>> 
>> Why would you choose not correct a known error?
>> 
>> Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
>> problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
>> problem, you'll wonder
>> 
>> John AE5X
>> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
>> 
>>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

As far as measuring the inductances, the listed values are only average. 
 Count the toroid turns correctly and there will be no problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/29/2020 5:16 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance.

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul


On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:

Why would you choose not correct a known error?

Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
problem, you'll wonder

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com


Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

Yes, correct the turns count on T1 and T2 if necessary.
The impedance matching is important for full power output.

You are not the first to miscount the turns on a toroid (adding an extra 
turn).  Remember that a single wire through the core is one turn and a 
full wrap around the core is 2 turns.  That is especially important for 
the toroids in the LPF on the band board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/29/2020 5:16 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance.

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

Thanks all for the feedback.

T1 correction is now made and now off to make a cup of tea (there’s a Brit in 
me somewhere).

Paul Gacek
W6PNG/M0SNA
Www.nomadic.blog

> On May 29, 2020, at 1:51 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid 
> cores.  A straight wire thru the donut is one turn.  I can't answer your 
> question ["does it make a difference?"] because I don't have a K1, but I did 
> build a K2, and based on that, I think the answer is "Yes, it will make a 
> difference."
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 5/29/2020 12:49 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:
>> I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the 
>> filter board and front panel.
>> 
>> I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1.  I count a turn by 
>> tracing the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual 
>> page 14 states I should count a turn each time the wire passes through the 
>> center of the toroid which is 5.
>> 
>> As T1 is an impedance match (1:5?) will the “extra” turn make a huge 
>> difference?
>> 
>> Intuitively I would say yes as it’s 20% more turns by the page 14 method.
>> 
>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
>> 
>> Paul
>> W6PNG/M0SNA
>> www.nomadic.blog
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

John

Fair question as to why not.

I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance 
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance. 

That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1 
and it’s easy enough to reduce a turn (versus adding one!).

I just completed the front panel tests and so before heading into the VFO 
alignment, I’ll make the correction.

For all the inductors (such as L9,L10 etc) I measure the inductance before 
installing them.

Paul

> On May 29, 2020, at 1:31 PM, John Harper  wrote:
> 
> Why would you choose not correct a known error?
> 
> Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
> problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
> problem, you'll wonder
> 
> John AE5X
> https://ae5x.blogspot.com
> 
>> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Fred Jensen]

You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid 
cores.  A straight wire thru the donut is one turn.  I can't answer your 
question ["does it make a difference?"] because I don't have a K1, but I 
did build a K2, and based on that, I think the answer is "Yes, it will 
make a difference."


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 5/29/2020 12:49 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:

I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the 
filter board and front panel.

I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1.  I count a turn by tracing 
the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual page 14 
states I should count a turn each time the wire passes through the center of 
the toroid which is 5.

As T1 is an impedance match (1:5?) will the “extra” turn make a huge difference?

Intuitively I would say yes as it’s 20% more turns by the page 14 method.

Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA
www.nomadic.blog



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[Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[John Harper]

Why would you choose not correct a known error?

Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
problem, you'll wonder

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com

> Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.
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[Elecraft] K1 build question: T1, turn count method.

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the 
filter board and front panel.

I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1.  I count a turn by tracing 
the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual page 14 
states I should count a turn each time the wire passes through the center of 
the toroid which is 5.

As T1 is an impedance match (1:5?) will the “extra” turn make a huge difference?

Intuitively I would say yes as it’s 20% more turns by the page 14 method.

Any guidance on whether I should correct this is welcome.   

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA 
www.nomadic.blog
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[rocketnj]

Hi Don,

You nailed it. No output from the 15 MHz crystal. The other three bands are 
showing good output. I checked the relays K1 and K2 to verify each has pins 3 
to 4 conductivity when on 40 meters (set radio to 40 meters, power down, and 
remove filter board since relays are latching. One side of crystal checks good 
to ground and the other side checks good to P1 pin 4.

Ordered new 15 MHz crystal from Elecraft.

Thanks for the advice. Once I got the RF volt meter it took a few minutes to 
find the problem.

73 and thanks again!
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 2:37 PM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 70mV or 
more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope with a 10X probe.

A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be fancy, just 
stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and solder the leads 
together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) Elecraft does have a kit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi Don
>
> I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
> understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done 
> it several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes 
> better than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive 
> sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.
>
> I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the 
> turns and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. 
> Both T3 and T4 appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in 
> the box the radio was in so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on 
> the schematic T4 would most likely be the suspect (if it is the 
> transformer.)
>
> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly 
> help pinpoint the issue.
>
> 73
> Dave wo2x
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
> To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
>
> Dave,
>
> Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board. 
>  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
> before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power 
> output.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of 
>> my Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less 
>> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked 
>> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are 
>> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can 
>> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns 
>> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
>> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
>> (not seeing double peak).
>>
>>
>>
>> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set 
>> for
>> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
>>
>>
>>
>> >From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
>> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the 
>> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band 
>> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it 
>> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20 
>> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
>> the bottom of page 23.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an 
>> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would 
>> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my 
>> Elmer's widow 100%
>>


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Dave]

Thanks Don

I am borrowing a military surplus RF voltmeter with probe this afternoon. I was 
thinking the crystal also.  Not many parts in the circuit.

Thanks for the pointers.

73
Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

> On May 20, 2020, at 2:36 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
> Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 70mV 
> or more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope with a 10X 
> probe.
> 
> A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
> Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be fancy, 
> just stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and solder the 
> leads together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) Elecraft does 
> have a kit.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi Don
>> 
>> I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
>> understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done 
>> it several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes 
>> better than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive 
>> sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.
>> 
>> I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
>> and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
>> appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was 
>> in so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most 
>> likely be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)
>> 
>> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
>> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will 
>> greatly help pinpoint the issue.
>> 
>> 73
>> Dave wo2x
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Don Wilhelm 
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
>> To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
>> 
>> Dave,
>> 
>> Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter 
>> board.  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 
>> 40m, 15m before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for 
>> power output.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi All,
>>> 
>>>   
>>> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
>>> Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less
>>> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked
>>> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are
>>> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can
>>> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns
>>> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
>>> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning 
>>> range (not seeing double peak).
>>> 
>>>   
>>> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for
>>> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
>>> 
>>>   
>>> >From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
>>> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the
>>> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band
>>> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it
>>> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20
>>> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual 
>>> at the bottom of page 23.
>>> 
>>>   
>>> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an
>>> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would
>>> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my
>>> Elmer's widow 100%
>>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Don Wilhelm]

There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board.  You should read 
70mV or more with an RF Probe or 200mV+ peak to peak if using a 'scope 
with a 10X probe.


A good working K1 will develop at least 5 watts.
Make up an RF probe if you don't have one.  It does not have to be 
fancy, just stick the component leads through a piece of cardboard and 
solder the leads together.  You need a 1N34 diode (not a silicon diode) 
Elecraft does have a kit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 1:35 PM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Don

I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I understand 40 
is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done it several 
times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes better than 2 watts. 
The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive sensitivity is 10 to 15 dB down 
from 30 meter receive.

I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was in 
so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most likely 
be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)

I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter readings on 
the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly help pinpoint 
the issue.

73
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board.  
They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All,

   


I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less
sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked
the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are
correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can
cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns
on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary.
Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
(not seeing double peak).

   


Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for
10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).

   


>From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the
relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band
filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it
active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20
operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
the bottom of page 23.

   


I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an
RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would
like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my
Elmer's widow 100%



__
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[rocketnj]

Hi Don

I have done that using the Marconi for RX, then touching up for TX. I 
understand 40 is a combo of 30 & 40 settings. After carefully retuning (done it 
several times) the best I can get on 40 is about 60 to 75 mW. 30 makes better 
than 2 watts. The menu for power out is set to 2.0 on 40. Receive sensitivity 
is 10 to 15 dB down from 30 meter receive.

I read that the windings on T3 and T4 are critical. I have counted the turns 
and verified which side #1,2,3 and 4 are coming off the core. Both T3 and T4 
appear to be fine. There is enough wire left over in the box the radio was in 
so I can rewind T3 or T4. From what I see on the schematic T4 would most likely 
be the suspect (if it is the transformer.)

I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter 
readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will greatly 
help pinpoint the issue.

73
Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter board.  
They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 40m, 15m 
before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical for power output.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
>   
> 
> I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my 
> Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less 
> sensitivity than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked 
> the values of components on the filter board to ensure they are 
> correct and installed correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can 
> cause issues on 40. T3 has 23 turns on the secondary with three turns 
> on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on secondary and two turns on primary. 
> Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap seems to be at one end of tuning range 
> (not seeing double peak).
> 
>   
> 
> Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for 
> 10.1 MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).
> 
>   
> 
>>From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
> When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the 
> relays to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band 
> filter manual it says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it 
> active and looking at the schematic K6 switches between 15/20 
> operation and 30/40 so I think there is a typo in the filter board manual at 
> the bottom of page 23.
> 
>   
> 
> I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an 
> RF probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would 
> like to get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my 
> Elmer's widow 100%
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter 
board.  They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before 
40m, 15m before 20m.  The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical 
for power output.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi All,

  


I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less sensitivity
than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked the values of
components on the filter board to ensure they are correct and installed
correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can cause issues on 40. T3 has 23
turns on the secondary with three turns on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on
secondary and two turns on primary. Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap
seems to be at one end of tuning range (not seeing double peak).

  


Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for 10.1
MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).

  


From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".

When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the relays
to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band filter manual it
says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it active and looking at the
schematic K6 switches between 15/20 operation and 30/40 so I think there is
a typo in the filter board manual at the bottom of page 23.

  


I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an RF
probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would like to
get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my Elmer's widow
100%


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[Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters

[rocketnj]

Hi All,

 

I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less sensitivity
than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked the values of
components on the filter board to ensure they are correct and installed
correctly. I also checked T3 and T4 which can cause issues on 40. T3 has 23
turns on the secondary with three turns on the primary. T4 has 24 turns on
secondary and two turns on primary. Another symptom is the CH trimmer cap
seems to be at one end of tuning range (not seeing double peak).

 

Note - the radio does not have the ATU option and 30 meters is set for 10.1
MHz and not 10.0 (double checked crystals).

 

>From what I can measure so far the relays seem to be working "as designed".
When I switch from 15 meters to 40 meters I can see the pulses to the relays
to switch them (latching relays. I did notice in the 4 band filter manual it
says K6 relay is not active on 40 but I do see it active and looking at the
schematic K6 switches between 15/20 operation and 30/40 so I think there is
a typo in the filter board manual at the bottom of page 23.

 

I am using a Marconi service monitor for testing. I have not built an RF
probe yet and hoping someone has seen this symptom before. I would like to
get the K1 fully operational as the proceeds are going to my Elmer's widow
100%

 

Thanks for reading!

 

Dave wo2x

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 issues with RIT and ATT Led's

[Stephen Roberts]

Several responded and it was a couple of things. First was that the main IC 
wasn't seated completely. I removed it, checked the pins and straightened them 
a bit. That apparently brought the LED's back to life so when I powered up I 
could see them initialize. Then I went to the menu and turned them on. Didn't 
even know there was a menu choice that controlled the LED's. Felt kinda dumb 
when I was told about that. Oh well, I'll take an easy fix any day...

Steve
W1SFR
w1sfr.com 


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[Elecraft] K1 Issues with RIT and ATTN LED's not functioning

[Paul Kirley]

W1SFR sed:
I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN 
don't function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle 
correctly then go out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the 
RIT or ATTN on, neither of the lights come on.


Since you recently bought the K1, you may not be aware that there is a 
menu setting for this.  Check the LED setting and verify that it is ON.  
It's on page 52 of my 2001 owner's manual.


73, Paul W8TM
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