[Elecraft] MMTTY FSK

2010-06-11 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so I've never done RTTY via true FSK only audio modes...  I have to
put in a fence this weekend so I won't be able to play this weekend but
I'm trying to get ready for FD...  

So I've made an interface that consists of a couple opto couplers (one
for FSK and one for PTT)...  I've got the radio all setup and shorting
the FSK_IN pin to GND makes the radio switch tones as it should...

However I'm having issues getting MMTTY to open the COM port.  I'm using
an FTDI based USB-RS232 converter.  The MMTTY settings have the USB
button right there and they tell me to click on the last 3 options.
I've tried all 3 but in all 3 modes I get the unable to open COM3
error...

I'm going to be googling and seeing if anyone else has had this issue
with me but I figured I'd pose here in the event someone here has
already run into this issue.

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] MMTTY FSK

2010-06-11 Thread Brett Howard
Iain actually pointed me in the direction of using the EXTFSK .dll
interface as the FTDI interfaces don't support any speeds less than 300
bps.  EXTFSK uses the media timers to generate the baud rates at slower
speeds.  Kinda stinks that you've gotta use windows timers as that was
the main reason why I had to buy the K1EL keyer because the Windows
timing was junk...  However the K3 is already ready to rock and roll
doing things via AFSK or FSK so I can easily switch between the two
methods in the field with no trouble what-so-ever.

~Brett  

On Fri, 2010-06-11 at 16:56 -0700, Greg wrote:
 Brett
 
 Go into device manager and change the COM number to something unused and 
 other than 3.  As you know, many computers reserve or use COM3 in the 
 background for such things as modems.
 
 73
 Greg
 AB7R
 
 
 On 6/11/2010 3:54 PM, Brett Howard wrote:
  Ok so I've never done RTTY via true FSK only audio modes...  I have to
  put in a fence this weekend so I won't be able to play this weekend but
  I'm trying to get ready for FD...
 
  So I've made an interface that consists of a couple opto couplers (one
  for FSK and one for PTT)...  I've got the radio all setup and shorting
  the FSK_IN pin to GND makes the radio switch tones as it should...
 
  However I'm having issues getting MMTTY to open the COM port.  I'm using
  an FTDI based USB-RS232 converter.  The MMTTY settings have the USB
  button right there and they tell me to click on the last 3 options.
  I've tried all 3 but in all 3 modes I get the unable to open COM3
  error...
 
  I'm going to be googling and seeing if anyone else has had this issue
  with me but I figured I'd pose here in the event someone here has
  already run into this issue.
 
  ~Brett (N7MG)
 
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Re: [Elecraft] MMTTY FSK

2010-06-11 Thread Brett Howard
I'm one of those guys that is a glutton for punishment...  To me the
fact that FSK is more complicated and I've not done it before is the
actual advantage.  I do see FSK as a method that is slightly less prone
to TX distortions.  I built my interface using opto couplers and then
put in a few jumpers to allow for several grounding situations.  Turned
out that 100% disconnect between all grounds is working very well.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-06-11 at 19:28 -0400, Mike wrote:
 When I got my K3, I was hot to get it set up on FSK. Somebody here 
 convinced me to try AFSK, and I was blown away by how simple it is, and 
 less complicated to set up. AFAICT, FSK offers no advantage.
 
 73, Mike NF4L
 
 Brett Howard wrote:
  Ok so I've never done RTTY via true FSK only audio modes...  I have to
  put in a fence this weekend so I won't be able to play this weekend but
  I'm trying to get ready for FD...  
 
  So I've made an interface that consists of a couple opto couplers (one
  for FSK and one for PTT)...  I've got the radio all setup and shorting
  the FSK_IN pin to GND makes the radio switch tones as it should...
 
  However I'm having issues getting MMTTY to open the COM port.  I'm using
  an FTDI based USB-RS232 converter.  The MMTTY settings have the USB
  button right there and they tell me to click on the last 3 options.
  I've tried all 3 but in all 3 modes I get the unable to open COM3
  error...
 
  I'm going to be googling and seeing if anyone else has had this issue
  with me but I figured I'd pose here in the event someone here has
  already run into this issue.
 
  ~Brett (N7MG)
 
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Re: [Elecraft] MMTTY FSK

2010-06-12 Thread Brett Howard
Its not more difficult just more fun cause I got to pull out the screwdriver
and soldering iron. That and it was harder for me cause that method I'd not
used before. I like using fsk and made a few contacts with it last night so
I can now say Ive make both ways work successfully.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Jun 12, 2010 5:14 AM, Bob Naumann w...@w5ov.com wrote:
Where did the idea that FSK is more difficult come from?

FSK requires no setting of transmit audio levels or concerns about sound
card settings - for transmission.

To me, this cuts the difficulty in half.

Using a RigExpert or MicroHam (or their equivalent) Interface it's basically
automatic and requires no fiddling with levels.

100% FSK RTTY here. Zero problems.

73,

Bob W5OV


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Firmware Rev. 4.03: CW+ mode (Ultra-fast break-in; VOX-CW up to 100 WPM)

2010-06-14 Thread Brett Howard
I tried it over the weekend when the RTTY contest was going on and used
FSK for the first time...  Was able to get a few to come back to me then
had to rush back out and get back to work on the fence...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-14 at 15:45 -0700, Julian, G4ILO wrote:
 Has anyone tried the built-in RTTY? When I tried it, I could copy
 other
 stations perfectly but no-one would come back to me. Eventually I set
 up
 another receiver to see if I could copy it and I found I had to
 reverse the
 sideband before I could decode the text.
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3: REF IN

2010-06-14 Thread Brett Howard
This is very interesting!  I'd not heard about this board but I did
see all the extra connection holes in the K144XV shield!  I'm very
interested to get the feature to be able to use the subRX on 2M while
the main is not!  This is one of the things I was hoping to be able to
do with the unit.  Should allow me to wait for a sked or even monitor
a repeater if need be while scanning around on other HF bands...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 2:55 AM, Jan Holmer SM6TUW sm6...@gmail.com wrote:

  There will be a choice according to Wayne:

 We have made provisions for this on an optional daughter board that
 plugs into the main K144XV module. This option board will have at least
 three features:
 (1) sub receiver AUX RF patch (to let the sub RX
 receive on 2 m even if the main RX is on a different band);
 (2) 144 MHz
 low-level I/O (for higher-band transverters);
  (3) a PLL to lock the
 K144XV's crystal oscillator to the K3's 49.38 MHz reference oscillator.

 This option will be available somewhat later than the K144XV itself,
 and the price has not yet been set. It will be very easy to install.

 I am looking forward to have more info about that option!

 73 Jan



 AD6XY wrote:


 The KX144 can not be locked to the reference, it uses a different LO. If
 it were based on the reference oscillator we would not be hearing of
 crystal supply problems.




 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-REF-IN-tp4105110p4117002.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Seperate Rx Antenna

2010-06-14 Thread Brett Howard
When you say that it didn't work what did it do?  If you have an
RX_ANT_IN on the back of your K3 then you do have the KXV3 or KXV3A
installed in your radio.  When you pressed the button did you get an
RX on the display?  Also make sure that you have enabled the KXV3 in
the config menu.  If you've used it before then you've probably
already done this...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 2:15 PM, Don Ehrlich
ehrl...@clallambroadband.com wrote:
 My K3 has no KRX3 subreceiver and no KXV3 transverter and I want to use a
 seperate receive-only antenna for general HF operation.

 Today I tried to use the RX-IN for the seperate antenna, switching to the
 seperate antenna for receive-only by pressing the RX ANT  button on the K3,
 and found that it did not work.  So I read the manual and discover that use
 of a seperate receive antenna in this way is  possible only when a KXV3 is
 installed and is only for use with the KXV3.  Am I reading the manual
 correctly?

 I clearly remember having done this before successfully on HF bands with my
 stock K3 and still have the BNC-S0239 adapter that I used before to connect
 my receive-only antenna to the RX-IN BNC connector on the back of the K3.
 The only antenna-related change in the K3 since that time is the
 installation of the autotuner.

 Please don't tell me my memory is wrong.  I'm too young to face the
 possibility of having become delusional.

 Don K7FJ




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[Elecraft] K3 FSK Interface the clean way...

2010-06-15 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so I just got an idea on how to make my FSK interface cleaner...  I
ended up with something very similar to the W3YY interface on my first
attempt.  You can see their interface here:
http://www.w3yy.com/fsk.htm

Anyway I had a box and two cables coming out of it with a DB9 on one
and a DB15 on the other (I didn't bother with the 3.5mm connector for
CW as I use a K1EL for that)...

Anyway I just came across one of these laying around in my office:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/DataSheets/Modules/DS_TTL-232R_PCB_V100.pdf

They were giving these away to showcase their chip and get people to
design them into products.  I'm thinking I'm going to grab a USB cable
that we have laying around and cut it.  Then desolder the USB
connector on this board and solder the cable into place there.  Then
solder some SMT optocouplers onto the pads on the end of the board and
run wires up to a DB15.  I should if I'm careful be able to fit the
whole mess into the shell behind the DB15.  Then one could have a K3
FSK adapter that just looks like a USB cable with a DB15 on one end.
Well at least thats the goal and heck as simple as it all is I'm sure
its going to work.  I'll post pics when she's done.

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] KTCXO3-1

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
So you bought the TCXO because you wanted to be able to say that it
was further temperature compensated by firmware?  Because what was
promised was that it would get to 0.5PPM via additional firmware
correction.  Well it turns out that the oscillators already do that
out of the box.  Thus implementing even further enhancement got moved
very low on the list because people were already receiving that which
they were promised.

At the moment there are MANY things that the P3 will be able to do
that are yet to be promised.  You can easily tell by looking at the
back of one at a hamfest.  There is a VGA connector port, a USB
Keyboard port, and a port to accept a W2 sensor...  Think of all the
possibilities that can come from this.

Not to mention.. Think of all the features that have come to the K3
that weren't promised!  I'd hope that you purchased the TCXO so that
you could have 0.5PPM rather than 5PPM accuracy on your reference  You
can be comforted if that is the case as you are actually getting
exactly what you paid for.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 8:46 AM, Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com wrote:
 On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 16:07:58 -0700 (PDT), Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
 le...@wa5znu.org wrote:

 Yes, that is true, but the rest of the advertisement that led to the sale of
 them (the auto temperature correction) has not been implemented.  Which 
 concerns
 me and others that bought them.

 That's one of the reasons I won't buy a P3 or any other major products until
 they have been shipping next day for at least a year and advertised
 functionality is complete.

 Don't get me wrong, I love my K3's but it would be nice if they had every
 feature advertised when I acquired them.

 Tom, N5GE

 K3 #806 with SUB RX, PR6,
 KRC2 and K144XV
 K3 #1055 with PR6 and XV432
 W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

 QCWA Life Member 35102

 n...@n5ge.com
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net


I'm not a guru, but the TCXO is already implemented.  The fraction-ppm
performance that might be gained by using some software isn't there, but the
TCXO itself is already more stable than the basic option.

Leigh/WA5ZNU

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Re: [Elecraft] KTCXO3-1

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
You can input the information via the K3 utility.   It is then stored in the
radio...

~Brett

On Jun 17, 2010 1:16 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
wrote:
 I would like to be able to calibrate it according the manual and Method 3
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are
 putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.
 -Mark Twain, author and humorist (1835-1910)

 On 17 Jun 2010, at 19:37, Brett Howard wrote:

 So you bought the TCXO because you wanted to be able to say that it
 was further temperature compensated by firmware? Because what was
 promised was that it would get to 0.5PPM via additional firmware
 correction. Well it turns out that the oscillators already do that
 out of the box. Thus implementing even further enhancement got moved
 very low on the list because people were already receiving that which
 they were promised.

 At the moment there are MANY things that the P3 will be able to do
 that are yet to be promised. You can easily tell by looking at the
 back of one at a hamfest. There is a VGA connector port, a USB
 Keyboard port, and a port to accept a W2 sensor... Think of all the
 possibilities that can come from this.

 Not to mention.. Think of all the features that have come to the K3
 that weren't promised! I'd hope that you purchased the TCXO so that
 you could have 0.5PPM rather than 5PPM accuracy on your reference You
 can be comforted if that is the case as you are actually getting
 exactly what you paid for.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] LDG

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
Actually the K3 can sell a LOT less than 100Million and be on par with
the number of IKY's sold.  While Elecraft is a Ham Radio only
organization IKY make a lot of money selling communications products
to completely unrelated sectors.

~Brett

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 12:32 PM,  w...@w5ov.com wrote:
 You can't argue with the numbers. And while Eric and company would like to
 be a $100 million company, I think they have some way to go to reach that
 level.

 The reason you run into others with the K3 is that you are here in the
 U.S. and many of those folks are like-minded with you and I, looking for
 the best performing radio available. Remember, there are a lot of people
 who are not even aware of the K3 and only consider I/Y/K radios.

 None of what I said in any way should be construed to be negative about
 the K3 - it's just that the number of them sold in no way compares to what
 Icom and Yaesu (and Kenwood) sell world-wide. $100 million in K3 terms =
 about 25,000 of them annually. We all know that there are not even close
 to 25,000 K3's out there.

 As further evidence of my personal perspective, my K3 occupies the spot
 where my 756Pro3 used to be and I have no regrets. In fact, I just used it
 for the first time on 6m last weekend in the VHF test and it worked very
 well - even without the optional preamp on 6m.

 73,

 Bob W5OV

 First off my K3/10 is what most consider QRP.  I use a used MFJ-945E
 tuner on 80-6m (also used when I ran my FT-847 on HF).  Supposedly
 rated to 300w (?) but I do not have anything that runs that high built.

 But, mainly, I want to respond to the K3 types are devoted and
 loyal, we're just a drop in the bucket of the world-wide amateur
 market statement.  Really?  Then why do I run into all these K3
 owners on the many e-mail reflectors, I inhabit?  I can say the K3 is
 very well though of and gaining popularity with the VHF+, EME, and
 microwave crowd!  To say they are in the lead for ultimate
 weak-signal operations, and the K3 is considered one of the best (if
 not the best) for that.

 and that is why I own one.

 73, Ed - KL7uW
 hint uW = microwave

 --

 Message: 43
 Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2010 08:14:31 -0500
 From: Bob Naumann w...@w5ov.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LDG
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 013701cb0e1f$05dd5f00$11981d...@com
 Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=US-ASCII

 For a moment, consider that what the LDG rep says may be true.

 I suspect that it is, given the incredible advertising  promotional
 budgets
 that Icom and Yaesu apparently have from sales of their products.

 While Elecraft is clearly doing well and they're growing, it is also clear
 that these long-standing manufacturers (I,Y) are selling lots more radios.
 A
 quick Internet search shows that it is estimated that Icom USA (Note: This
 is USA only) has sales revenues on a yearly basis of between $50 million
 and
 $100 million. Then, add whatever Icom is doing in the rest of the world,
 and
 you begin to get the picture of how big these companies are in comparison.

 What this tells us is that while us K3 types are devoted and loyal, we're
 just a drop in the bucket of the world-wide amateur market compared to the
 big two. (Kenwood doesn't count until they come out with a real radio -
 then it once again may be the 'big 3').

 73,

 W5OV



 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 144-600w, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-fall 2010
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 ==

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Goldline on K3

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
Yep just get the Kenwood adapter cable and it'll plug right in and
work like a champ!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 1:55 PM, Robert Mitilieri rc...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Has anyone used a Heil Goldline mic with a K3? I would like to use the Heil 
 with my soon-to-arrive K3. It works  great with my soon-to-be-replaced Drake 
 TR7A. I was just wondering whether I should invest in another adapter cable.

 Robert N9EF
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Re: [Elecraft] KTCXO3-1

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
You said you wanted to be able to calibrate it via the data that came
with the device.  You can calibrate it by inputting the data to the
radio and you will get the 0.5PPM accuracy you were promised.  Does
that mean that the data is used? No.  But you CAN input it and you
WILL get the accuracy you paid for.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 2:10 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:
 Is it then used - I thought I saw a post saying you can input it, but it's
 not used.
 And I wonder if that works in the OSX version ?
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 As a well spent day brings happy sleep, so life well used brings happy
 death. -Leonardo da Vinci, painter, engineer, musician, and scientist
 (1452-1519)
 On 17 Jun 2010, at 21:46, Brett Howard wrote:

 You can input the information via the K3 utility.   It is then stored in the
 radio...

 ~Brett

 On Jun 17, 2010 1:16 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
 wrote:
 I would like to be able to calibrate it according the manual and Method 3
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are
 putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.
 -Mark Twain, author and humorist (1835-1910)

 On 17 Jun 2010, at 19:37, Brett Howard wrote:

 So you bought the TCXO because you wanted to be able to say that it
 was further temperature compensated by firmware? Because what was
 promised was that it would get to 0.5PPM via additional firmware
 correction. Well it turns out that the oscillators already do that
 out of the box. Thus implementing even further enhancement got moved
 very low on the list because people were already receiving that which
 they were promised.

 At the moment there are MANY things that the P3 will be able to do
 that are yet to be promised. You can easily tell by looking at the
 back of one at a hamfest. There is a VGA connector port, a USB
 Keyboard port, and a port to accept a W2 sensor... Think of all the
 possibilities that can come from this.

 Not to mention.. Think of all the features that have come to the K3
 that weren't promised! I'd hope that you purchased the TCXO so that
 you could have 0.5PPM rather than 5PPM accuracy on your reference You
 can be comforted if that is the case as you are actually getting
 exactly what you paid for.

 ~Brett (N7MG)



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Re: [Elecraft] KTCXO3-1

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
Thats a feature.  No matter what you enter you'll always get the
0.5PPM that you paid for. ;)

~Brett

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 2:27 PM, Grant Youngman n...@tx.rr.com wrote:
 The current OS X version of Utility does not have the feature.  YOu have to 
 use the Win(doze) version.

 The RADIO -- you know, the K3 -- does not support Mode 3 calibration.  You 
 can key anything in there you like -- your mom's birthday, lucky numbers, the 
 angular momentum of Uranus, or even the data sheet from Elecraft.    It won't 
 matter, and won't affect the radio calibration accuracy.

 Grant/NQ5T


 On Jun 17, 2010, at 4:10 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 Is it then used - I thought I saw a post saying you can input it, but it's 
 not used.
 And I wonder if that works in the OSX version ?nate.html

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Re: [Elecraft] KTCXO3-1

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
Understood.  That makes a lot more sense.  I'd bet you probably did
better than you think but I understand the FUD (Fear, Uncertainty,
and/or Doubt) that you may have messed it up.  Perhaps you could
borrow a MFJ259B from a local club or elmer to get the job done.  I
used the zero beat function and then later brought home my Agilent
MSO6104 scope (as they have hardware frequency counters in them) and
found that I was only off by a few Hz.  Honestly the main thing is
that when you call some one they answer you.  In certain modes that
can become a much more difficult task but I think if you were running
into that issue you'd know...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 2:37 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:
 Brett, I think after all this time, I may have misunderstood the Reference 
 Oscillator calibration instructions.
 I had always read the following:

 Reference Oscillator
 The K3’s reference oscillator is a TCXO, or temperature-compensated crystal 
 oscillator. It is normally calibrated at assembly time or by the factory. 
 There are two types: 5 ppm and 1 ppm.
 Either TCXO can be calibrated using an accurate frequency counter (Method 1), 
 or by zero-beating the sidetone against a reference signal (Method 2).
 Accuracy of the 1 ppm TCXO can be improved by entering the supplied 
 calibration data (Method 3). Be sure to keep the data sheet that was supplied 
 with the oscillator.

 As meaning there were 3 methods of calibrating the frequency, but now I think 
 there are only 2 ways to calibrate it, plus the possibility of improving the 
 stability (method 3).

 I'm happy that it's very stable, but not sure I did a good job on the 
 frequency. I don't have a frequency counter and did the best I could to 
 zero-beat it.


 so thanks for your comments, they have helped me understand this better.
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 It is not how old you are, but how you are old. -Jules Renard, writer
 (1864-1910)

 On 17 Jun 2010, at 22:13, Brett Howard wrote:

 You said you wanted to be able to calibrate it via the data that came
 with the device.  You can calibrate it by inputting the data to the
 radio and you will get the 0.5PPM accuracy you were promised.  Does
 that mean that the data is used? No.  But you CAN input it and you
 WILL get the accuracy you paid for.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 2:10 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
 m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:
 Is it then used - I thought I saw a post saying you can input it, but it's
 not used.
 And I wonder if that works in the OSX version ?
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 As a well spent day brings happy sleep, so life well used brings happy
 death. -Leonardo da Vinci, painter, engineer, musician, and scientist
 (1452-1519)
 On 17 Jun 2010, at 21:46, Brett Howard wrote:

 You can input the information via the K3 utility.   It is then stored in the
 radio...

 ~Brett

 On Jun 17, 2010 1:16 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
 wrote:
 I would like to be able to calibrate it according the manual and Method 3
 73 de M0XDF
 --
 Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are
 putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.
 -Mark Twain, author and humorist (1835-1910)

 On 17 Jun 2010, at 19:37, Brett Howard wrote:

 So you bought the TCXO because you wanted to be able to say that it
 was further temperature compensated by firmware? Because what was
 promised was that it would get to 0.5PPM via additional firmware
 correction. Well it turns out that the oscillators already do that
 out of the box. Thus implementing even further enhancement got moved
 very low on the list because people were already receiving that which
 they were promised.

 At the moment there are MANY things that the P3 will be able to do
 that are yet to be promised. You can easily tell by looking at the
 back of one at a hamfest. There is a VGA connector port, a USB
 Keyboard port, and a port to accept a W2 sensor... Think of all the
 possibilities that can come from this.

 Not to mention.. Think of all the features that have come to the K3
 that weren't promised! I'd hope that you purchased the TCXO so that
 you could have 0.5PPM rather than 5PPM accuracy on your reference You
 can be comforted if that is the case as you are actually getting
 exactly what you paid for.

 ~Brett (N7MG)





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Re: [Elecraft] LDG

2010-06-17 Thread Brett Howard
I had the pleasure of helping out at the Elecraft booth at SeaPac
recently and I also took a bit of time to go and listen to how Icom's
booth was going...  

The Icom booth guys seemed to be marketing guys who don't really do a
lot of ham stuff.  The Elecraft booth was being assisted by customers
who were excited about the product enough to want to help out. 

Then finally the BIGGEST difference between the Icom, Kenwood booth and
the Elecraft booth.  People continually came up to us to tell us about
their radios and how much they loved them.  But the biggest piece of
uniqueness is that every person I talked to could tell me their serial
number off the top of their head.  How many who own a IKY can state
their serial number off the top of their head?  Do I have some fun
stories and did I have a lot of fun with my TS-450Sat?  Hell yes.  Do I
feel the connection to that radio that I do my K3?  Meh not even close.

Its a different animal.  Elecraft does a great job focusing on just our
segment of the market and IKY generally sees the Amateur Radio market as
a fairly small portion of its total revenue and applies attention to
those customers accordingly.  Thus I do feel like IKY spends time
listening to and responding to Amateur Radio customers!  But they've got
other customers with a lot more money under their control that take
president.  

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, 2010-06-17 at 19:49 -0700, Fred Jensen wrote:
 Bob Naumann wrote:
 
  What this tells us is that while us K3 types are devoted and loyal, we're
  just a drop in the bucket of the world-wide amateur market compared to the 
  big two. (Kenwood doesn't count until they come out with a real radio -
  then it once again may be the 'big 3').
 
 Actually, I don't think it tells us this at all. I/Y/K manufacture and 
 sell a huge range of electronic products, not all radios in the usual 
 sense, and most of ones that are radios are for non-ham users.  They 
 are all very large international companies, and no fooling, they make 
 good ham radios, no question.  Elecraft on the other hand, sells ham 
 radio products only -- and very good ones that compete with the specs of 
 the others so well as to win in most categories.  Coupled with the 
 issues of support, upgrade, and cost, E-radios are probably at the top 
 of the heap for many reasons.
 
 My KX1 is #697 [I think].  K2 is #4398.  K3 is #642, but it has a couple 
 of hardware mods and is running FW Ver 4.03 as I type this, pretty much 
 up to date as of 17 Jun 2010.  I have yet to see an update for my FT-847 
 [which I like and use on UHF/VHF].  Actually, I don't think Yaesu even 
 knows I'm one of their customers, but Elecraft does.
 
 We need to be very careful how we compare radios and companies who make 
 them.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2010 Cal QSO Party 2-3 Oct 2010
 - www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] tx gain calibration

2010-06-18 Thread Brett Howard
No you're just able to have the dummy load on either port when you do
so.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-06-18 at 20:35 -0400, Gary Lee wrote:
 Must I do this for each antenna port?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ref osc calibration question

2010-06-18 Thread Brett Howard
Perfect!  The higher the frequency you use the better!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-06-18 at 21:12 -0400, Andrew Moore wrote:
 I ended up using WWV at 20.0 MHz.
 
 Works great.
 
 Problem was that the freq must really be known -- i.e. the XG2 won't cut it,
 unless I know its exact frequency...
 
 Thanks all
 
 
 On Fri, Jun 18, 2010 at 8:56 PM, Andrew Moore andrew.n...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I'm performing a calibration on my K3's TXCO (5 ppm version).
  K3 is new/recent build, serial 44xx
 
  K3 owner's manual, Rev. L, page 49.
  Method 2 (zero-beating)
 
  I'm using an Elecraft XG2 signal generator at roughly 14.060 MHz
 
  Procedure says to enter CW mode and tune to the specified frequency (in
  this case, I don't know it, as every XG2 is probably a little different)
 
  Since I don't know the exact frequency, can I spot it with the Spot
  function, and then proceed to the REF CAL adjustment?  Or is there a catch
  22 here, as the spot function may not be accurate until the TXCO is
  calibrated?
 
  --Andrew
  NV1B
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K3/100 with many options

2010-06-19 Thread Brett Howard
So why exactly are you selling a K3 to buy a K3?  Is it just that you
didn't build this one and you want one that you built?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-06-19 at 13:58 -0400, NZ8J wrote:
 I have a K3/100 (serial no. 2255) with many options I would like to  
 sell.
 
 It has the following options built in:
 
 Second RX
 Antenna tuner
 Voice recorder
 TCXO
 IF out module (KXV3)
 1.8 kHz filter
 500 hz filter
 250 hz filter
 200 hz filter
 MH-2 hand mic
 
 All manuals and power cord
 
 Not interested in trades, only selling to buy a new kit version K3/100
 to  
 build. I did some trading for this and seeing all the new products on  
 the horizon I decided to start new and build up a complete Elecraft  
 station, eventually the P3 and 500 watt amp as well. It looks excellent
 
 and works perfect. Always in a non smoking environment.
 
 Will ship and insure it in the US for $2895. US postal money order  
 preferred.
 
 Please reply direct to n...@woh.rr.com for more information. I ca nsend
 pics if necessary.
 
 Thanks
 Tim
 NZ8J
 
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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio from speakers after FW 3.97 upgrade K3

2010-06-19 Thread Brett Howard
Do you have mono plugs on any of your speakers?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-06-19 at 11:13 -0700, K3PIN wrote:
 I just upgraded the firmware in my k3(#2453) and now there's no audio from
 the internal speaker or the external speaker I have. I can get sound from
 the phone outputs. I think the FW upgrade fried my audio somehow. needless
 to say I'm pissed off! I aslo had another RF/SQl knob crack on me! maybe it
 is time to trash the k3 and go with a Flex 5000! Anyone else have a simular
 audio problem or any suggestions besides emailing and calling Elecraft which
 I already did.
 
 
 Steve-K3PIN


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Re: [Elecraft] Band specific PTT outputs from the K3

2010-06-21 Thread Brett Howard
Huh... I'd have never thought to use a PIC for something like this...  I
swear one of these days I really should look into PICs but I've always
been the type to solve things with programmable logic or to go all the
way to an ARM based solution.  Recently did a project where cost was
king and was able to get 3 UARTs, Full speed USB, all the required
timers and PWM controllers, along with 2 SPI channels all into a sub 2
dollar coretex M3 part that would run at 72Mhz (however you had to run
it at 48Mhz to get USB to work right)

This project could have been doing really quick and simple also with a
little GAL16V8 with probably a lot less code.  But still a fun
project, great job!  Always great to see people adding in their own
little project nuggets to get what they need done.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-21 at 00:44 -0500, David Robinson wrote:
 After suffering the lack of separate HF PTT, 6m PTT, 144 PTT and 432 MHZ
 PTT from my K3 since I bought it I finally spent the time to do
 something about it. I have developed a PIC based unit that decodes the
 current K3 band data signals to provide these outputs. More information
 at http://g4fre.com/K3_PTT_sw.htm 
 
 Dave 
 
 ww2r
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Vox settings per mode

2010-06-21 Thread Brett Howard
Hold down DATA MD and make sure that you are in a AFSK mode.

~Brett (N7MG)  

On Mon, 2010-06-21 at 20:01 -0700, Brandon673 wrote:
 Is there something I'm missing? I am unable to setup my K3 to use VOX anytime
 its in digital mode without it changing my SSB modes also over to VOX. I
 only use VOX for Digital Modes and never use it for SSB/FM/AM. Does anyone
 else have this issue or know if there is a fix for it? Is this a firmware
 issue?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Vox settings per mode

2010-06-21 Thread Brett Howard
I'd have to go check but I'm pretty sure that VOX is remembered per
band/per mode so you just have to set it that way and it should remember
it.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-21 at 20:36 -0700, Brandon673 wrote:
 So no solution? I want VOX to be on no matter what band im on when i select 
 Data Mode. Anytime I change out of Data mode I want VOX to be off. Otherwise 
 when I switch from doing digital modes i occasionally forget to turn VOX off 
 and i go into TX.
 
 Brandon
 
 
 On Jun 21, 2010, at 8:32 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
 
  
Is there something I'm missing? I am unable to setup my K3 to use 
VOX anytime its in digital mode without it changing my SSB modes 
also over to VOX. 
  
  That's the way the K3 operates. 
  
  There are two mode groups; CW/FSK D/PSK D and SSB/AM/FM/DATA A/AFSK A. 
  Note the A in DATA A and AFSK A ... that indicates Audio where the 
  D in FSK D/PSK D indicates direct as in direct keying.  VOX applies 
  to the Audio group as a whole. 
  
  73, 
  
  ... Joe, W4TV 
  
  On 6/21/2010 11:01 PM, Brandon673 wrote: 
   
   Is there something I'm missing? I am unable to setup my K3 to use VOX 
   anytime 
   its in digital mode without it changing my SSB modes also over to VOX. I 
   only use VOX for Digital Modes and never use it for SSB/FM/AM. Does 
   anyone 
   else have this issue or know if there is a fix for it? Is this a firmware 
   issue? 
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  View message @ 
  http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Vox-settings-per-mode-tp5207116p5207162.html
   
  To unsubscribe from K3 Vox settings per mode, click here.
  
 
 


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[Elecraft] Help finding an RF adapter

2010-06-22 Thread Brett Howard

I need to find an adapter to allow me to use a really low loss cable
that I have...

The cable has one male and one female RP-TNC connector and I need to get
PL259 (UHF) connectors.  So I need male-RP-TNC-UHF and
female-RP-TNC-UHF adapters from a place that can 2nd day air ship...

I'm hoping to just find 1 adapter to get the job done but I may have to
go to N and then from N to UHF... 

But I'm looking at feeding 100ft to a 43foot vertical and using the
tuner in the shack (hopefully I can use the K3 built in tuner but I'll
have a spare external just in case)...  But anyway this coax run that I
have was given to me and its a very low loss 100 foot run for 2.4Ghz use
so for 30Mhz use it'll be helpful for the reflected power that the tuner
helps send back which is going to see my run as a 300 foot run of this
stuff...  I figure even with a little extra adapter loss the ultra low
loss coax will still be a help as its the brunt of the loss in the
system.  

~Brett (N7MG)

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[Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-22 Thread Brett Howard
I'm trying to find the specs on this chunk of coax that has the RP-TNC
connectors on it...  I'm not having a lot of luck but perhaps someone is
more familar with it than I... Its just says Amphenol TWO 6001 9G

Then the box just says its a Cisco Systems Ultra Low Loss Coax
Assembly...  And being Cisco is why I get the joy of dealing with the
RP-TNC... ;)  But hey the whole thing was free!

~Brett

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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-22 Thread Brett Howard
I think I found a sheet that says its LMR600 or at least its in a
grouping that makes me think it might be LMR600.

OD on the stuff is .591 by my measurements.

From my calculation a 5:1 mismatch on 100 feet of LMR-400 would still
get me 75watts out the antenna at 30Mhz and things only get better as I
head down into 20 and 40 meters.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, 2010-06-22 at 20:51 -0700, Wes Stewart wrote:
 loss is meaningless.  What is the diameter?
 
 I've been out of the industry for some time, but as I recall Amphenol
 didn't make bulk cable, so they likely bought the cable from Belden,
 Times, etc and built a cable assembly for Cisco.
 
 I think your original premise is flawed.  If you want to move the
 match point of a 43' vertical 100' into your shack you probably should
 be looking for some 7/8 Helix. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-22 Thread Brett Howard
I know I'm about to sound completely nuts to everyone but I'm just doing
all this stuff for FD... ;)

I'll probably end up using the 100' or 50' chunk of LMR400 that I have
laying around  here depending on how far away the antenna has to be from
the tent...  Being that I'm going to be running 40 radials (and don't
want to staple it down) I'm going to need to keep it away from where
people will be walking.

I've also got 2 other wire antennas that are proven and we know are
going to work well... But I always like trying stuff that I've never
done before for FD.  I know we're not going to be winning any awards but
I've got trees freakin everywhere and I'm going to probably have 4
antennas hooked to the K3 two RX only and two TX/RX...  

I've never been to the location where its held this year and so thats
new for me too.  I just try to have fun, make sure I get a few good
bites of the potluck, and get to play with more antennas and better
antennas than I'll ever have at my current home.  Later I'll have a
better setup but for now FD is my biggest play date w/ Ham Radio every
year...  

These are where I get to try stupid things and find out what does and
doesn't work.

~Brett (N7MG)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, 2010-06-22 at 21:10 -0700, Phil Kane wrote:
   On that basis, see if you can get some 75 ohm hardline from
   your local cable company - they are pulling it all out in favor of
   fiber optic cable and throwing it away unless the local hams
   ask for it.  We have several hams here who use that to go up
   70-100 foot towers and get out very well despite the apparent
   mismatch. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-22 Thread Brett Howard
Thats another really great data point!  Knowing Cisco getting the word
ultra printed on the box cost a good chunk of extra change! ;)

Well heck if LMR400 is .7dB/100ft I'm not so sure that its worth mucking
with finding adapters for it as if I end up having to put 2 adapters on
each end to get it to something I can use there goes most of my
advantage of stepping up from LMR400 to LMR600... 

~Brett

On Tue, 2010-06-22 at 22:19 -0600, Bob Cunnings wrote:
 In Cisco parlance, Low Loss and Ultra Low Loss refers to classes
 of Aironet coax cable assemblies. On this data sheet:
 
 http://tinyurl.com/yr8fck
 
 we find these described in Table 8. If you indeed have part nbr
 AIR-CAB100ULL-R (where the ULL means Ultra Low Loss) then the
 attenuation is specified as 4.4 dB per 100 ft at 2.4 GHz. This puts it
 in the LMR600 class,  0.5 dB attenuation per 100 ft at 30 MHz.
 
 Bob NW8L
 
 On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 9:16 PM, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:
  I'm trying to find the specs on this chunk of coax that has the RP-TNC
  connectors on it...  I'm not having a lot of luck but perhaps someone is
  more familar with it than I... Its just says Amphenol TWO 6001 9G
 
  Then the box just says its a Cisco Systems Ultra Low Loss Coax
  Assembly...  And being Cisco is why I get the joy of dealing with the
  RP-TNC... ;)  But hey the whole thing was free!
 
  ~Brett
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
Yea I know I'm going way overkill and I was doing all the calculations
by hand of total loss and at a 7:1 SWR (which is entirely possible on
this 43 ft vertical) the loss at 30Mhz can get kinda ugly... I've not
modeled it fully but on all bands but on 20 meters its 7:1 and on 40
meters its 3:1...  

I think I'm just going to call it a day and use the LMR400...  But its
fun to overthink this stuff...  Article looks nice I can see I'm going
to be up for a few more minutes! ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, 2010-06-22 at 23:34 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 Check out 
 
 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/Coax-Stubs.pdf
 
 100 ft of almost any decent RG8-size or RG11-size coax is just fine for a 
 Field Day antenna on the HF bands. On the lower HF bands, RG8X-size coax is 
 just fine. 
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
I was starting to look at connectors when comparing getting adapters to
use the LMR600 that I have to that of using LMR400 that I have with the
right connectors on it already...

From what I've seen in other models I'm expecting 7:1 SWR on 20 and 3:1
SWR on 40 with the 4:1 UNUN that DX recommends to help make things tune
easier.  

When Elecraft makes me a remotable tuner that will work with my setup
then I'm game... Till then I'll suffice with the tuner thats built into
the radio.  It should be able to handle most of what I should see with
that 4:1UNUN on there and its capability of tuning things w/in 10:1...
I'm not holding my breath for using it on 80Meters but we'll see what
the tuner can handle...  I plan on setting things up on Friday and
taking my notebook and collecting a bunch of data on it to see how
things shake out...  

I'm not expecting magic I'm just trying to get my head around all the
math and get an idea of what I should expect so I know when to be
surprised and ask questions when reality doesn't match theory... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, 2010-06-23 at 03:15 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:
  Well heck if LMR400 is .7dB/100ft I'm not so sure that its worth mucking
  with finding adapters for it as if I end up having to put 2 adapters on
  each end to get it to something I can use there goes most of my
  advantage of stepping up from LMR400 to LMR600...
 
  The loss in connectors or adaptors at HF or even up into VHF is virtually 
 immeasurable, unless they are simply terrible. If the connectors are 
 terrible you might have 0.05 dB loss.
 
 A common SO-239/PL259 junction has less than .02 dB loss at upper HF.
 
 I'd be more concerned with transmission line losses due to SWR on the 
 transmission line and voltage breakdown of connectors in your application. 
 Here are the peak voltages at the antenna base with only 100 watts applied 
 at the antenna, and the losses in a feedline using 100 feet of LMR500:
 
 160= 4800v  (100:1 SWR) 16 dB feedline loss
 80  = 1000v (100:1 SWR) 6 dB feedline loss
 40 =  215v (5.4:1 SWR)   .6 dB feedline loss
 30 =  500v (26:1 SWR) 3 dB feedline loss
 20 =  540v  (29:1 SWR)  3.5 dB feedline loss
 15 =  280v (9:1 SWR)  1.7 dB feedline loss
 
 Why would you worry about connectors when 100 feet of LMR500 would have 
 losses like that? Put a tuner at the antenna base if you want to reduce 
 losses.
 
 73 Tom 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
Its called field day and I'm trying to get some of the best stuff I can...
I'm having fun with it and learning more all the time. Why not help people
setup their own experiences and enjoy the hobby rather than telling them
that they are simply doing it wrong. If you were stuck in the woods and all
you had was two pieces of wire and a K3 would you use the two together and
save your life or would you never connect the two because you don't have any
expensive feedline and die there?

Personally I spent the money on my radio cause I was allowed to build it and
learn from it.  I also get better support. True diversity with equal quality
receivers as I plan on using the vertical with diversity RX.  I also get a
UI that I am familue with and find inruitive.  Last I checked using LMR400
or LMR600 for a 100 watt FD station is at least someone making an attempt.

This is a hobby guys. I'm just trying to enjoy it...

~Brett. (N7MG)

On Jun 23, 2010 4:21 AM, Samuel Strongin kf4...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Let me see spend $4000.00 on a radio So you can hear better, argue over
fine points in the receiver, and THEN go out and get junk cable so you can
save $50.00 .  I just can't see the logic.
Sam kf4yox

--
From: Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 12:10 AM
To: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net


Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

  On 6/22/2010 8:55 PM, Brett Howard wrote:
 
  From my calculation a 5:1 mismatch on 100 feet of L...

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Re: [Elecraft] K3SYN3 with and without shielding

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
Couldn't hurt as its going to have all the latest mods.

That is a stiffener and not really a shield. Go to the mod kits and parts
section on the elecraft website and you can read the installation
instructions on that stiffener and even buy one to upgrade your other synth
if you wish...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Jun 23, 2010 7:04 AM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) la...@nrrl.no wrote:

 I am about to install the second receiver in the K3. I now have two
 synthesizers, the old no 1 which has been made up to date with a
paralleled
 resistor (
 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/KSYN3%20DDS%20Gain%20Modification.pdfKSYN3
 DDS Gain Modification ) and which does not have any shield. Then I have a
 new one with a shield which is several mm thick and covers most of the
PCB.

 I would guess the shield is there for a purpose, so is it advisable that I
 swap the synthesizers and use the shielded one as no 1, which is also used
 for transmission I presume?


 Sverre

 -
 Sverre, LA3ZA

 K2 #2198, K3 #3391
 http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2
 modifications
 --
 View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3SYN3-with-and-without-shielding-tp5213399p5213399.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
This is definately something I plan on trying but first I'm going to use it
as intended and record results to see how they match with what I'm told and
what I read...  For me its not about the score its about new things to try
and more data to capture and understand. I think overcoming the problems of
this setup in many different ways will keep me busy for at least 5 more
field days.  To me that's good fun!  Reminds me of the way my late
grandfather was and helps me feel closer to the old man that got me into the
hobby in the first place. I only wish I could still share it with him today.


~Brett (N7MG)

On Jun 23, 2010 7:22 AM, Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com wrote:
 On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 00:19:03 -0700, Brett Howard
 br...@livecomputers.com wrote:

 Ditch the 43 foot vertical! The 43 foot vertical craze is a joke, as
 you can see by the figures, Tom, W8JI, gives you in his post showing
 feedline loss and SWR.

 During FD you are going to get most of your points from QSO's within
 the U.S.A., so put up a 40m ground plane at eight feet on a 4X4 wooden
 post in a two foot hole with 4 radials (you can use the radials to guy
 the wooden post). 40m is a good band for day and night and is only 32
 feet or so tall plus eight feet of post. By doing this you will have
 a resonant antenna that will cover 360 degrees at ranges within the
 U.S.A.

 Adjust the length of your 43 ft vertical by removing the top ten feet
 and adjusting it for the end of 40m that you are going to work or set
 it in the middle of the band and attach it to the post.

 Tom, N5GE
 Licensed since 1976
 QCWA Life Member 35102

 n...@n5ge.com
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net

Yea I know I'm going way overkill and I was doing all the calculations
by hand of total loss and at a 7:1 SWR (which is entirely possible on
this 43 ft vertical) the loss at 30Mhz can get kinda ugly... I've not
modeled it fully but on all bands but on 20 meters its 7:1 and on 40
meters its 3:1...
 [snip]

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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Loss Figures

2010-06-23 Thread Brett Howard
Actually I did one better... I found a great power point presentation
and read that whole thing...  Really dug being able to see the SWR
plot that you had in there and that gave me a lot more confidence that
I was going to be able to use my internal ATU in the K3 to get enough
swing to get the job done.  I'm not expecting to get much of anything
below 40.  I may try it but only to collect some information and write
up what I find and store it away for the well in a pinch that can
kinda work or don't even try...  I do plan on building something
similar to what you'd shown for doing 160 and 80 just to say I've
built one and to make the setup that much more versatile should the
need arise to get on the low bands.

Looking forward to setting it up and collecting information then
getting to do some comparisons between the 43 ft vertical and the
Carolina windom which I'll be using together for diversity.  Then I'll
have one other wire up for RX only...  I love having options!  ;)  My
home station is such a compromise that the compromise situation that I
get to play with on FD is just a pure joy!  Not to mention that new
locations also make it fun and interesting.

Thanks much for all your information on the 43 ft vertical!  I've
found it quite informative and it gives me good information to go on
to make sure things are coming out how I want.

The plan is to feed it w/ 100 ft of LMR 400 or 50 ft of 9913 depending
on how far away we have to put it and which gives us the best results
if both are an option.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 9:43 AM, Phil  Debbie Salas dpsa...@tx.rr.com wrote:
 ...Ditch the 43 foot vertical!  The 43 foot vertical craze is a joke, as
 you can see by the figures, Tom, W8JI, gives you in his post showing
 feedline loss and SWR

 With a 1:4 unun at the base of the antenna, the VSWR from 40-10 meters is
 not bad - resulting in minimal coax losses.  However, the VSWR on 80 and 160
 meters with or without the unun is terrible, and you should match the
 antenna at the base on those bands.  See the Articles section at
 www.ad5x.com for 160/80 meter matching ideas.

 Phil - AD5X

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[Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity

2010-06-24 Thread Brett Howard
So I know I'm going to shoot for as wide as I can get things... But for
two main antennas on a k3 one being a Carolina Windom and the other
being a 43 foot vertical.

How much separation would one expect to be needed in order to prevent
the COR's from switching during TX @ 100Watts?

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity

2010-06-24 Thread Brett Howard
Huh... Broadside to the vertical provided minimum coupling?  Well I'm going
to be slapping things together tomorrow and trying them out and trying to
take a bunch of measurements and logging it all.  Was just wondering if
anyone else here had a similar setup and might have an answer here.  I'm
figuring I'll probably be able to pull off about 150 to 200 feet between
them... Lets hope its enough.  If not I can always make one of them RX only
and put the ICE Receiver Limiter box on it.

~Brett (N7MG)

-Original Message-
From: Tom W8JI [mailto:w...@w8ji.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 6:00 AM
To: Brett Howard; elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity

Brett,

No one can answer that question for you, because both antennas are 
unpredictable in nearfield performance. Also the layout of the antenna and 
what is around, under, and between the antennas is very important.

With such a large soup of unknowns, plus there might be other transmitters 
on site (?), the only way to really know is to try it.

If you had a normal dipole and wanted interaction to a vertical of known 
efficiency I have all that data. One thing I learned is minimum coupling 
from a good dipole to a good vertical was with the dipole BROADSIDE to the 
vertical, not at right angles as I assumed without thinking.

The problem is the Carolina Windom is nothing like a dipole and not nearly 
as predictable as a dipole for nearfield or close farfield coupling, and 
that goes on top of the other variables that are bad enough on their own.

Maybe you should go to an antenna forum, like on eHam or QRZ, armed with the

information of the safe signal level the K3 will tolerate. Other than the 
safe signal level, this is really an antenna theory question and a good 
answer would be too complex for a radio reflector.

73 Tom

- Original Message - 
From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 5:14 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity


 So I know I'm going to shoot for as wide as I can get things... But for
 two main antennas on a k3 one being a Carolina Windom and the other
 being a 43 foot vertical.

 How much separation would one expect to be needed in order to prevent
 the COR's from switching during TX @ 100Watts?

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity

2010-06-24 Thread Brett Howard
I'm totally going to print this and bring it with me as I'm certain no one
will believe this unless I let them sit down and read through it themselves.
Quite interesting though!

~Brett (N7MG)

-Original Message-
From: Bob Cunnings [mailto:bob.cunni...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2010 7:30 AM
To: Brett Howard
Cc: Tom W8JI; elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Separation for Diversity

 Huh... Broadside to the vertical provided minimum coupling?

Apparently so. See the article by K6STI in the Sept. 1995 QST A
Receiving Antenna that Rejects Local Noise for an explanation.

Bob NW8L

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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity receive and isolating antennas

2010-06-24 Thread Brett Howard
This just gave me a great idea...  If any of you have a LP-100A you
can connect an antenna directly into the back of the unit (where the
couplers normally connect) and the unit can then be used as a field
strength meter and it will give values in dBm...  Thats totally how
I'm going to determine if my separation is going to be good enough...

My hope is to be able to have 3 antennas on the K3 two which are TX/RX
and one RX only...  The RX only antenna I'm going to run through an
ICE 196 RF Limiter
(http://www.iceradioproducts.com/reconly.html#rflimiter).  It starts
limiting things to .3VRms so that should keep things happy...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 11:14 AM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Hi George,

 If you have an RF voltmeter or milliwatt meter, try terminating the
 proposed RX antenna in a dummy load, then measure the voltage or power
 when you transmit. If it's less than about 2.23 Vrms (100 mW, or +20
 dBm), you'll have no trouble at all.

 The subreceiver (as well as the RX ANT IN jack) can generally handle
 far more than this without damage; I pumped several watts in during
 early testing. But you don't want to take risks in the field, or have
 the COR (carrier operated relay) switching in and out during keying in
 CW mode. Antennas can change pattern due to wind, rotation, etc.

 If the power at the AUX RX input (sub receiver) looks like it may be
 excessive, you can take additional precautions. You could move the RX
 antenna farther away, put it in a null of the TX antenna, reduce its
 gain (length), or use the KEY OUT line to drive an external shunt PIN
 diode switch.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 On Jun 24, 2010, at 10:04 AM, George A. Thornton wrote:

 I am planning to use my dual receive K3 for field day and we want to
 try
 out diversity receive.



 This particular setup will be for 20 meters only.  The primary antenna
 will be a 20 meter monoband Yagi mounted on a 40-60 ft. tower.



 We were considering using a Buddipole mounted in vertical position and
 tuned for 20 meters voice to serve as a Rx only antenna for the sub.
 All transmission will be from the Yagi.  I was planning to hook the
 Buddipole into a Rx only connector.



 We will do the best we can to isolate the two antennas but having not
 been to the site before I am not sure what will be possible in the way
 of geographic isolation.



 I want to make sure I won't do any damage to the K3 in case the
 isolation is not sufficient.



 Anyone familiar with this situation able to give me some guidance?

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Re: [Elecraft] Clock Accuracy

2010-06-24 Thread Brett Howard
I feel cheated!  The 18,000 dollar Agilent scope I have on my bench
doesn't have a clock in it...  However the 60,000 dollar Agilent scope
we just bought has windows on it and that syncs up over the net so that
one remains fairly accurate... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, 2010-06-24 at 18:05 -0600, Craig D. Smith wrote:
 y accurate either.  But I've since learned
 how to deal with it.  Pretty much every piece of electronics you buy
 these
 days has a clock in it.  I've found absolutely zero correlation
 between the
 accuracy of the clocks and the overall quality or cost of the
 equipment.
 The worst clock here is in a $6K Agilent scope!
 
 Here's how to get around it - ignore the clocks!  I don't even bother
 setting them or changing for DST, etc.  The only two clocks I use in
 the
 shack are the wall-mounted radio controlled clock and the
 computer/logging
 clock which both adjust automatically and are plenty accurate for
 me  ;)
 
  73   Craig  AC0DS
 
 
 

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[Elecraft] Ok what am I doing wrong? Low power out

2010-06-26 Thread Brett Howard
I've not looked for too long but things were working earlier...
However now even though I have PWR set to 100 Watts I only get about 8
out and the K3 PWR meter only shows 1 bar being highlighted.

~Brett
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[Elecraft] PA No worky...

2010-06-26 Thread Brett Howard
Ok well I'll provide a bit more information.  I've pulled the PA and
taken a look at things and nothing looks like its gotten hot at all.
Nothing is obviously wrong at all.

I've checked all my filter settings (which hadn't changed since it was
working a few minutes ago) and they all still seem to be correct.  I
reloaded the firmware to the radio and also restored my previous
configuration.  I've redone the synthesizer configuration because I've
recently added the synth stiffeners.  I then redid the TXG
calibration.  5 Watt TXG calibration goes 100% successfully.  However
100W TXG Calibration results in an ERR TXG message.  It seems like its
doing everything that it should to make the radio produce 100 watts
but the PA just isn't doing its job.  Flipping between PAio ON and
PAio TST does produce a relay click so the PAIO is doing its job.  I
should also mention that all fan speed tests check out ok as well.

If I'm forgetting anything else to check please enlighten me.

Thanks much gentlemen

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] PA No worky...

2010-06-26 Thread Brett Howard
Yes it is but I was trying other settings to verify that things were still
switching as they should.

~Brett

On Jun 26, 2010 1:26 AM, Ian Maude i...@gb7mbc.net wrote:
 You should have the menu entry set to PA Nor.

 73 Ian

 --
 Ian J Maude, G0VGS
 SysOp GB7MBC  HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
 Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
 http://www.amateurradiotraining.org


 On 26 June 2010 09:11, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:

 Ok well I'll provide a bit more information. I've pulled the PA and
 taken a look at things and nothing looks like its gotten hot at all.
 Nothing is obviously wrong at all.

 I've checked all my filter settings (which hadn't changed since it was
 working a few minutes ago) and they all still seem to be correct. I
 reloaded the firmware to the radio and also restored my previous
 configuration. I've redone the synthesizer configuration because I've
 recently added the synth stiffeners. I then redid the TXG
 calibration. 5 Watt TXG calibration goes 100% successfully. However
 100W TXG Calibration results in an ERR TXG message. It seems like its
 doing everything that it should to make the radio produce 100 watts
 but the PA just isn't doing its job. Flipping between PAio ON and
 PAio TST does produce a relay click so the PAIO is doing its job. I
 should also mention that all fan speed tests check out ok as well.

 If I'm forgetting anything else to check please enlighten me.

 Thanks much gentlemen

 ~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] Poor RX on SSB

2010-06-27 Thread Brett Howard
Check your filter settings...  Being that you are receiving narrower
signals ok but not wider ones I suspect that you have a problem with a
filter offset setting (make sure you put in the - if you have a negative
offset) 

Let us know if you figure anything else out or have any further
questions.

~Brett

On Sun, 2010-06-27 at 13:52 -0500, Richard Hemingway wrote:
 I have just finished my K3 kit and it seems to be working just fine. 
 However, I have been trying to tune into FD on SSB and find poor 
 reception.  I should explain that I live in a retirement community 
 and only have a Isotron 20M antenna sitting on the top of a bookcase 
 by a window on the second floor. However, that said I should further 
 explain tht I usually can receive SSB fairly well.  I am receiving CW 
 great and PSK (which I usually use) pretty well.  The SSB signals 
 seem to be down in  the mud,  while the CW signals are very strong.
 
 I am new to this reflector (and to the K3) and this may be a dumb 
 question.  Any help on this or advice would be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 73
 Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Possible potential?

2010-06-27 Thread Brett Howard
I will say that its not implemented yet or even announced but if you've
been lucky enough to see a P3 at a hamfest there is a port which can
allow one to plug in a W2 coupler.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-06-26 at 17:55 -0700, juergen wrote:
 Hi
 
 A friend emailed me this link  for a  new product from Telepost. It looks 
 fantastic.
 
 http://www.telepostinc.com/LP-500.html
 
 I wonder if the P3 will evolve into something similar?
 
 
 73
 John
 
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Bad start to FD - smoked a K3!!!!

2010-06-27 Thread Brett Howard
You may look into checking Q8 and Q9 in the post amplifier.  You can see
what I'm talking about in the top right section of page 8 on the
schematics (here):
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf

Also check the resistors around that area for stuff that looks like it
got hot...  R66, R68, R56, R75 and the like...

I had something similar happen to me and Q9 blew on my radio.  Replace
Q8 and Q9 together if its needed as well as any of the resistors that
had a hard day and you should be ok...

The K3 does have protection for this if you have the mod in place that
helps make it happen.  The current through this path is monitored and if
the power in gets too high it can turn off your preamp or engage the ATT
to try and protect itself.  However when running high power with
multiple stations in close proximity there are procedures and equipment
that should be in place or you're going to have problems no matter what
brand of radio you're running.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-06-26 at 06:06 -0700, NZ0T wrote:
 We had one guy get on 75 with a KW with another on 40.  Guy on 40 didn't
 know.  He got the RFI warning, the K3 locked up and he smelled smoke.  Now
 his K3 has no RX at all.  I thought there was a high power protection
 circuit?  We have other rigs to use but any input as to what needs to be
 done with the smoked K3 would be appreciated before he sends it back to
 Aptos.
 
 73 Bill NZ0T  My K3 is OK


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Re: [Elecraft] Bad start to FD - smoked a K3!!!!

2010-06-27 Thread Brett Howard
I should also add that you can find these components if you pull the
bottom front cover off (the one with the bail on it) and look toward
the right side when the radio is sitting on its top...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, Jun 27, 2010 at 5:35 PM, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 You may look into checking Q8 and Q9 in the post amplifier.  You can see
 what I'm talking about in the top right section of page 8 on the
 schematics (here):
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf

 Also check the resistors around that area for stuff that looks like it
 got hot...  R66, R68, R56, R75 and the like...

 I had something similar happen to me and Q9 blew on my radio.  Replace
 Q8 and Q9 together if its needed as well as any of the resistors that
 had a hard day and you should be ok...

 The K3 does have protection for this if you have the mod in place that
 helps make it happen.  The current through this path is monitored and if
 the power in gets too high it can turn off your preamp or engage the ATT
 to try and protect itself.  However when running high power with
 multiple stations in close proximity there are procedures and equipment
 that should be in place or you're going to have problems no matter what
 brand of radio you're running.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Sat, 2010-06-26 at 06:06 -0700, NZ0T wrote:
 We had one guy get on 75 with a KW with another on 40.  Guy on 40 didn't
 know.  He got the RFI warning, the K3 locked up and he smelled smoke.  Now
 his K3 has no RX at all.  I thought there was a high power protection
 circuit?  We have other rigs to use but any input as to what needs to be
 done with the smoked K3 would be appreciated before he sends it back to
 Aptos.

 73 Bill NZ0T  My K3 is OK



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Memory Recall

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Actually the K3 can do this!

You just have to setup the K3 to not do delayed memory updating.

Go into the CONFIG:MEM 0-9 menu entry and press the 1 button to select
MV NOR.  Now when you're in the memory mode you can turn the VFO and
the memories will be gone to in real time.  MV DLY is something I
prefer usually as you'll have all the relays clicking in the band pass
and low pass filters as you ratchet through your memories and what
not...  But its a lot more like Kenwood does things once you set it up
that way.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 10:02 +0100, Tom Boucher wrote:
 Thanks Art, that was the problem. I had tried to set up memory hopping 
 between bands, which unlike my TS850, the K3 won't do.
 
 WB8ENE wrote:
 Sounds like you have a * in the first position of the name for that memory
 location.
 
 
 Knut AB2TC - you have to push the MV button a second time if VFO A knob is 
 used to select memory number, but not if you use the number keys.
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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Poles?

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
I just bought a rigrunner from HRO and also bought some extra APP
connectors...  The APP's that came with the rig runner did not have roll
pins but the HRO branded extras that I bought did have them.  So there
are still places where you can get your hands on them.

~Brett

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 09:36 +0200, DM4iM wrote:
 Elecrafters,
 i was looking for Anderson power poles on the Ham Radio Fair in 
 Friedrichshafen, DL.
 I found two dealers, both of them sold the Power Poles WITHOUT the pin 
 that goes between the two housings. They said the poles were shipped 
 without them and they´d never seen them and i must be wrong blah blah.
 
 Are they really no longer shipped with the pins or do these german 
 dealers sell asia-made copies?
 
 I could have asked Wayne at his booth, but he had a lot of traffic.
 
 -- 
 
 73,
 Martin DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Another (stupid) Clock Question

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
When you're displaying Date or time or whatever (there are several other
things that can be shown in DISP mode).  Simply turn the VFO B knob to
change to the other values...

The K3 is VERY consistent in that if something is displayed in the top
line of text the VFO A knob adjusts it and if it is displayed in the
bottom line of text the VFO B knob adjusts that.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 10:56 -0700, cl...@nwlink.com wrote:
 So - I had my new K3 out at our Field Day (W7S - Sammamish ARES/RACES
 Group) operation; and it worked great!   I'm still getting used to all the
 filters and features; but it was definitely a step above any other rig
 there, INCLUDING a Flex-3000.  The HI RFI mod definetly saved my rig on
 more than one occasion when someone started using a 40M dipole that was
 only 10' feet separated from the 15M dipole that I was using.
 
 I did have one interesting issue - I let a number of folks use the rig,
 with no apparent ill effects; EXCEPT, the clock (when displayed in VFO B)
 is now displaying on the DATE and not the time.   I read through the
 owners manual, and CANNOT seem to figure out how to change that back.
 
 Also - the manual implies that the Display button will cycle through
 several different displays in VFO B; but, the only two I can see are
 either the Frequency or Clock display.
 
 Can someone assist?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Clay
 N7QNM
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
How are you selecting to enable your PR6?  Are you using the DIGOUT
line?  If so you should be able to see what is going on by looking at
the DIGOUT line.

You will need the RX ant enabled in order to use the PR6.  The PR6 is
inserted into your RX_ANT loop when its enabled.  Otherwise it simply
passes those through to the BNC's on the other side.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:01 -0500, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
 Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main band on 75,
 the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RX.  Or do I not need the RX on
 to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this configuration?
 
  
 
 Bill
 
 K9YEQ
 
 K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules
 
  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 QSK

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Yes this is correct as long as PTT is applied you won't switch back into
RX mode between elements.  Its working on VOX is how things should go!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:22 -0400, Mike wrote:
 When I send CW from the computer, I don't hear anything until the string 
 of characters is finished. I think that's due to my closing the PTT by 
 turning on DTR at the beginning and turning it off at the end, ie. DTR 
 on, send NF4L, DTR off. Am I correct?
 
 Seems to work with VOX tho.
 
 
 73, Mike NF4L
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
I actually had a similar experience however our guys were using the K3
an LP-PAN and PowerSDR I/F.  They'd go to enter the callsign and the
number of the call would send you off to that frequency.  Not to
mention that we were in a white automotive tent which made it quite
bright inside there and it was tough to see the mouse cursor for some
of the ops.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote:
  I think you'll find this interesting.

 Lyle

  Original Message 
 Subject:        [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
 Date:   Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:18:15 -0500
 From:   Dr. Howard S. White drpa...@kleega.com
 To:     flexe...@flex-radio.biz flexe...@flex-radio.biz



 Ran the Flex 5000 for Field Day with 2 Flex Newbie's who were Very 
 Experienced Contest Operators who regularly win major contests.

 The issue quickly became the fact that it was difficult to use the Flex in a 
 contest environment because the operators had difficulty with the focus of 
 the keyboard in search and pounce mode.  This was not an issue when we held a 
 frequency as we did not have to touch the radio.

 On several occasions, they would be typing into N1MM, then changing 
 frequencies, forgetting to move the focus back to N1MM so PowerSDR  abruptly 
 changed the radio frequencies or bands because they typed on the wrong  
 screen...and of course lost the contact  It became highly frustrating in 
 the heat of battle..

 I had the mouse set so that by hovering over a program it would shift focus 
 but that was not really good enough in the heat of the contest where the 
 mouse needs to be hovering over PowerSDR but typing needs to be into the 
 Contest logger.

 Bottom Line:      They concluded that the Flex was not ready for Prime Time 
 Contesting.


 I seem to recall some discussions on program focus on this reflector but it 
 is impossible to search this reflector's archives..


 A Few of Recommendations:


 1.       There really needs to be a Contest Skin which removes about 90% of 
 the controls that you never use in the contest...they could be set it and 
 forget it in the main form and hidden during contests. You really only 
 use frequency via mouse wheel, band, filters.

 2.       The Contest Skin needs to integrate a contest logging program such 
 as N1MM or Writelog into the Skin so that you never have to switch 
 programs...ideally the logger should show inside the skin.

 3.       In the alternative, remove the ability of the keyboard to interact 
 with PowerSDR during contests and fix its focus onto the Contest Logger while 
 fixing the focus of the mouse wheel on frequency changing.

 4.       Or in the alternative, use a second computer for the contest 
 logger... really ugly solution...

 5.       There needs to be a detailed Knowledge Base Article on Focus for 
 contesting.

 One other suggestion... move this reflector to a reflector such as Yahoo 
 Groups which has a searchable archive...so you won't continually have people 
 asking the same questions all the time.
 __
 Howard S. White Ph.D. P. Eng., VE3GFW/K6  ex-AE6SM  KY6LA
 Website: www.ky6la.comhttp://www.ky6la.com/
 No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
 Ham Antennas Save Lives - Katrina, 2003  2007 San Diego Fires, 911

 ___
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 flexe...@flex-radio.biz
 http://mail.flex-radio.biz/mailman/listinfo/flexedge_flex-radio.biz
 This is the FlexRadio Systems e-mail Reflector called FlexEdge.  It is used 
 for posting topics related to SDR software development and experimentalist 
 who are using alpha and beta versions of the software.


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
I should add though that they so loved the ability to click around on
stations just like they can with their N1MM band map that they usually
kept causing themselves the problem.  They'd swear off using PowerSDR
and said I'm just going to leave the focus on N1MM and not worry about
it anymore but they'd keep seeing something they'd want to go after
and the point/click ease was just too attractive.  Many also had
issues with the right click to go between pan mode and point/shoot
mode.

Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
the recorder...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:54 PM, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I actually had a similar experience however our guys were using the K3
 an LP-PAN and PowerSDR I/F.  They'd go to enter the callsign and the
 number of the call would send you off to that frequency.  Not to
 mention that we were in a white automotive tent which made it quite
 bright inside there and it was tough to see the mouse cursor for some
 of the ops.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote:
  I think you'll find this interesting.

 Lyle

  Original Message 
 Subject:        [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
 Date:   Mon, 28 Jun 2010 14:18:15 -0500
 From:   Dr. Howard S. White drpa...@kleega.com
 To:     flexe...@flex-radio.biz flexe...@flex-radio.biz



 Ran the Flex 5000 for Field Day with 2 Flex Newbie's who were Very 
 Experienced Contest Operators who regularly win major contests.

 The issue quickly became the fact that it was difficult to use the Flex in a 
 contest environment because the operators had difficulty with the focus of 
 the keyboard in search and pounce mode.  This was not an issue when we held 
 a frequency as we did not have to touch the radio.

 On several occasions, they would be typing into N1MM, then changing 
 frequencies, forgetting to move the focus back to N1MM so PowerSDR  abruptly 
 changed the radio frequencies or bands because they typed on the wrong  
 screen...and of course lost the contact  It became highly frustrating in 
 the heat of battle..

 I had the mouse set so that by hovering over a program it would shift focus 
 but that was not really good enough in the heat of the contest where the 
 mouse needs to be hovering over PowerSDR but typing needs to be into the 
 Contest logger.

 Bottom Line:      They concluded that the Flex was not ready for Prime 
 Time Contesting.


 I seem to recall some discussions on program focus on this reflector but it 
 is impossible to search this reflector's archives..


 A Few of Recommendations:


 1.       There really needs to be a Contest Skin which removes about 90% of 
 the controls that you never use in the contest...they could be set it and 
 forget it in the main form and hidden during contests. You really only 
 use frequency via mouse wheel, band, filters.

 2.       The Contest Skin needs to integrate a contest logging program such 
 as N1MM or Writelog into the Skin so that you never have to switch 
 programs...ideally the logger should show inside the skin.

 3.       In the alternative, remove the ability of the keyboard to interact 
 with PowerSDR during contests and fix its focus onto the Contest Logger 
 while fixing the focus of the mouse wheel on frequency changing.

 4.       Or in the alternative, use a second computer for the contest 
 logger... really ugly solution...

 5.       There needs to be a detailed Knowledge Base Article on Focus for 
 contesting.

 One other suggestion... move this reflector to a reflector such as Yahoo 
 Groups which has a searchable archive...so you won't continually have people 
 asking the same questions all the time.
 __
 Howard S. White Ph.D. P. Eng., VE3GFW/K6  ex-AE6SM  KY6LA
 Website: www.ky6la.comhttp://www.ky6la.com/
 No Good Deed Goes Unpunished
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Yea I kinda noticed that... But I felt like I was about to enter into a
seizure when its real time...

I'm not sure what would work better but two interesting things to see
would be either have the display go into real time mode during a QSY or
have the display freeze the averaged data during QSY.  I'm not as
certain about that second idea but there are maybe some slight
modifications of that that could be interesting...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 14:59 -0700, W6NEK wrote:
 Hi Brett,
 What you describe is commensurate with the PowerSDR Display AVG Mode being 
 enabled.  If AVG Mode is off, the displayed panadapter signal amplitude 
 will not decrease as you tune the band.  The displayed signals are real-time 
 with a display frame rate adjustable to 50 frames per second.  Just click 
 the AVG Button off.
 
 73,
 Frank - W6NEK
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
 To: Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com
 Cc: Elecraft Group elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?
 
 
 SNIP
 Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
 the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
 out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
 the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
 faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
 remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
 but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
 the recorder...
 
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Re: [Elecraft] playing back the voice recorder

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Hold the MON button (on the PWR knob) then turn the MON level up and
try it again...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 5:28 PM, Jed Barton j...@jedbarton.com wrote:
 Hey guys,

 Alright, trying to figure out why i can not hear the recording when i record
 with the dvr.
 Here's what i do.
 press the record button, then tap memory 1 and do a test recording.  Then i
 press record to stop recording.
 I then hit memory 1, but hear nothing, any ideas?
 \
 Thanks,
 Jed

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Re: [Elecraft] adjusting the transmitter unkey time

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Hold the bottom left knob of that quad pack and when you get into that
mode adjust the knob to set the value where you want it to be...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 20:37 -0400, Jed Barton wrote:
 Hey guys,
 
 Alright, got the power thing figured out.
 Here's a question, how do i set the time from when i send my last letter of
 cw to when the rig unkeys, in other words, you can adjust the amount of time
 from when you send your last letter to when the transmitter unkeys.
 Thoughts?
 
 Thanks,
 Jed
 
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Re: [Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Well there are a few issues there...

Like Don mentioned you're not going to be able to do that with 6M on the
sub rx unless the main RX in on 6m too.  However you can do it with 6M
on the main RX and 160-6 on the sub RX...

Your only other option would be to use the AUX RF port and to connect
the preamp through that port.  But you'd not be able to TX back out
through that port.  

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 20:43 -0500, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
 Brett,
 
 Thank you for the response.  I haven't considered the use of the pass through 
 BNC's.  I want to use the Sub Rec and the 6 meters and be able to switch back 
 and forth to transmit on any 160-6 meter freqs.  
 
 Bill
 K9YEQ
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Brett Howard [mailto:br...@livecomputers.com] 
 Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 1:35 PM
 To: Bill K9YEQ
 Cc: Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PR6 SubRec and two bands at once on K3
 
 How are you selecting to enable your PR6?  Are you using the DIGOUT line?  If 
 so you should be able to see what is going on by looking at the DIGOUT line.
 
 You will need the RX ant enabled in order to use the PR6.  The PR6 is 
 inserted into your RX_ANT loop when its enabled.  Otherwise it simply passes 
 those through to the BNC's on the other side.
 
 ~Brett (N7MG)
 
 On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 13:01 -0500, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
  Seems when I have the Sub Receiver set on 6 Mtrs and the main band on 
  75, the PR6 isn't getting the signal through the RX.  Or do I not need 
  the RX on to use the PR6, or is the PR6 out of circuit when in this 
  configuration?
  
   
  
  Bill
  
  K9YEQ
  
  K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules
  
   
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Wish List

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
There is an application called K3EZ that will allow you to do just that
if you wish...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 21:05 -0500, Robert Mitilieri wrote:
 Ok, it's only been a few days since I've built my K3 #4411 and I have 
 something for the wish list.
 
 I would like to see multiple TX EQ presets. I use a full-range mic element 
 for rag chewing, a Heil HC5 element for DXing, and a hand mic for portable 
 use (which the K3 makes so easy). The TX EQ for these mics are very 
 different. It would be a convenience to select from a few preset TX EQ curves.
 
 There's my 2 cents for the day!
 
 73,
 Robert N9EF
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest Skins?

2010-06-28 Thread Brett Howard
Good show kind sir!  This is exactly what I was thinking of when I was
trying to come up with how it would need to be coded.  

Really looking forward to mine shipping!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 21:19 -0700, Alan Bloom wrote:
  Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
  the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
  out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
  the noise again and then dial into it...
 
 That is probably caused by averaging.  I believe that with PowerSDR,
 whenever you tune the K3, the old spectrum is still present in the
 averaging memory and you have to wait an averaging time constant or two
 to see the new spectrum.
 
  I hope that the P3 is a lot faster and the signals stay visible 
  while fast QSYing.
 
 The P3 automatically re-sets averaging (and peak hold) whenever the K3
 frequency changes.  So you see an un-averaged signal immediately after
 tuning and then the signal smooths out as the averaging memory is
 refreshed.  But at least the signal never goes away.
 
 Alan N1AL
 
 
 On Mon, 2010-06-28 at 12:57 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
  I should add though that they so loved the ability to click around on
  stations just like they can with their N1MM band map that they usually
  kept causing themselves the problem.  They'd swear off using PowerSDR
  and said I'm just going to leave the focus on N1MM and not worry about
  it anymore but they'd keep seeing something they'd want to go after
  and the point/click ease was just too attractive.  Many also had
  issues with the right click to go between pan mode and point/shoot
  mode.
  
  Many also didn't like the slight lag in turning the knob and seeing
  the signals.  As you tune the knob on the K3 the signals kinda drop
  out and you have to stop your QSY then let the signals come up out of
  the noise again and then dial into it...  I hope that the P3 is a lot
  faster and the signals stay visible while fast QSYing.  I don't
  remember being able to do a whole lot of that when I saw it in Seaside
  but there weren't a lot of signals all over just the 4 that were in
  the recorder...
  
  ~Brett (N7MG)
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest, Skins?

2010-06-29 Thread Brett Howard
Good tips!  I was wondering if turning all that off would work out for
us..

I did find the collapsed views to be really nice!  And while I never use
the audio out of power SDR I did find it pretty slick that the new
interface follows your actual radio bandwidth.  Quite the slick little
setup!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, 2010-06-29 at 02:07 -0400, Larry Phipps wrote:
 If you set all of the keyboard shortcuts in the PowerSDR/IF 
 SetupKeyboard tab to none, then typing while you're in the focus of 
 the panadapter will not get you in trouble. You could still use 
 shortcuts if you are careful to avoid any key that your logger uses as a 
 shortcut, or any letter or number key which might be used to enter a 
 callsign. In my case, I run N1MM in contests, and I can enter data, tab 
 through the entries, etc. even while my mouse is hovering over the pan 
 display. I use a mouse utility called WizMouse to allow the focus to 
 follow the mouse without clicking. After saving the contact, I can click 
 on another signal and the N1MM entry boxes are cleared and ready to 
 accept new data.
 
 I find that it also helps to run PowerSDR in collapsed mode to 
 eliminate clutter. This mode is not available in the Flex releases of 
 PowerSDR.
 
 It may not be a 100% solution, but it's pretty good and you won't risk 
 having the rig jumping around in frequency if you type while in the 
 focus of the panadapter. And as I said, with N1MM the text even shows up 
 in the call sign entry box as you would want.
 
 73,
 Larry N8LP
 
 
 
  Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2010 12:54:03 -0700
  From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: [FlexEdge] Field Day, Focus and Contest
  Skins?
  To: Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com
  Cc: Elecraft Group elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Message-ID:
  aanlktineroz9lybqm-gavbmc8oilf7cwbhk2kft9-...@mail.gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
  I actually had a similar experience however our guys were using the K3
  an LP-PAN and PowerSDR I/F.  They'd go to enter the callsign and the
  number of the call would send you off to that frequency.  Not to
  mention that we were in a white automotive tent which made it quite
  bright inside there and it was tough to see the mouse cursor for some
  of the ops.
 
  ~Brett (N7MG)
 
  On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 12:49 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote:

   ?I think you'll find this interesting.
  
   Lyle
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-01 Thread Brett Howard
I really wanted to try and trace out what was going wrong with my KPA3
but I was kinda low for time to put into it and the first thing I was
going to need was some ribbon cables made up that would allow me to
remote the KPA3 so that I could trace it while its outside the K3...  I
figured I'd move on and go ahead and send it in once I realized I wasn't
going to be able to trace things out that way.  Not to mention that I
really need to make an RF voltage probe but I usually go and use the
spec an at work...

Anyway sometimes a month before it hits the bench is faster than I'd be
able to get to it.  Esp when I can use it at 10W and get on the air
instead! ;)  

However I do wish I could keep it and try to fix it for that month while
I waited rather than it just sitting on a shelf.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, 2010-07-01 at 21:16 -0400, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 The biggest ramp up for working on a K3 is getting to the point where
 you can read its schematic with understanding.  The only piece of test
 equipment I've had to use on it is an XG-1.  I DID have some problems
 that I could see most sending it back to the shop.  DO need magnifying
 glasses tho and willingness to get in the program for SMD components.
 Much easier to work on a K2.
 
 73, Guy
 
 On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 4:54 PM, David leDuc n...@n1ix.com wrote:
  If you have all the test equipment necessary to troubleshoot these modern
  radios more power to you. In the old days I used to be able to work on my
  car too.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mic problems

2010-07-02 Thread Brett Howard
You may need to update your manual...  You should be shooting for only
5-7 bars of ALC.  Also make sure that you have compression off when
trying to adjust these settings.

You can find a copy of the latest manual here:
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Owner%27s_Manual_Rev_D7sm.pdf

Once there take a look at page 28...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 8:55 PM, Jim Hoge knowk...@verizon.net wrote:
 I am need of guidance on all things voice. I have used my K3 (#1816) for some 
 time now but only on cw. With the 6m openings, I decided to put a mic on the 
 radio and promptly ran into problems. I cannot get the mic gain high enough 
 to reach 8 bars per the manual. I can only get close if the mic gain is 
 maxed, the compression is maxed, the menu gain is toggled to the high level, 
 and I shout. I have tried both a hand mic wired through the front panel and 
 an Heil PR-20 wired through the rear panel. I have not played with eq at all 
 yet but I have noticed that there is no mic output unless there is some 
 compression. No compression equals no output. Your help is greatly 
 appreciated. It's probably operator error but I'm too close to see the 
 problem.

 73,
 Jim W5QM
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[Elecraft] Heil 4-pin XLR pinout

2010-07-02 Thread Brett Howard
So I've done a few searches and I'm finding all sorts of people
wanting to sell me an adapter cable...  But what I'm trying to find
online is a place that gives the pinout for Heil's 4-pin XLR mic's...

I'm also trying to find a local source for the connector and seem to
be striking out so if anyone knows a good place to procure said
connector I'd appreciate that too..

I've already got a Kenwood adapter cable and I'm hoping to not destroy
that cable yet make another cable that will allow me to run the mic
into the back...

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] what was so provocative? - The Answer

2010-07-02 Thread Brett Howard
Reminds me of the first time a friend of mine asked if they could borrow
my rubber and promised to give it back when they were done... ;)

BTW a rubber is an eraser...

~Brett

On Fri, 2010-07-02 at 17:51 -0700, Lyle Johnson wrote:
  Not to mention the use of stick it rather than sell it
 
 We must be careful not to read too much into this sort of thing.  This 
 ad was placed in a UK magazine by a UK supplier targeting a UK market.
 
 The meaning of many common English words often changes as one crosses 
 the borders of the USA., as I  quickly discovered the first time I 
 traveled overseas.
 
 Back in 1972, when I held the callsign ZL2ACY, I found myself in the 
 company of a very conservative group of people.  There was a young child 
 present, perhaps 2 years old, and I complimented the parents, describing 
 him as a cute little bug..r.  I was met with shocked stares and 
 gasps.  One elderly gentlemen drew me aside and explained the meaning of 
 this word in Kiwi society, which was quite different than it was in 
 American society at the time.  We were both surprised to discover this.
 
 Upon this revelation, I humbly apologized to the group.
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil 4-pin XLR pinout

2010-07-03 Thread Brett Howard
I finally found some online... And after calling around for a bit I did
find 2 shops that had 4 pin XLR connectors.  One shop only had panel
mount versions and the other shop only has right angle versions.
Neither had more than 2 or 3 of them though.

I'm going to go get one of the right angle ones and I've ordered a set
of 3 of the straight ones online.  

Will be nice to get the mic moved to the back...  The plan is to put a
3.5mm jack and an RCA on the same cable with a lil pigtail so I don't
lose the ability to use the PTT button on the mic if its ever needed...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-02 at 22:23 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Fri, 02 Jul 2010 19:16:39 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 
 Check the Pro-audio stores and websites for the XLR connector. 
 
 It should be noted that the only standard within the PRO AUDIO world 
 for the wiring of an XL connector with more than three pins is that pin 
 1 is the designated shield contact. For a 3-pin XL connector used for 
 balanced audio, pin 1 is the shield, pin 2 is positive polarity, and 
 pin 3 is negative polarity. 
 
 There are two major mfrs of XL connectors -- Neutrik, and Switchcraft. 
 Both are widely distributed in North America. Both are first class 
 companies, but Switchraft also makes some cheapies. The high quality 
 cable-mounted 3-pin male is an A3M, a 4-pin is A4M. The cable mounted 
 females are an A3F and A4F, respectively. The only difference is the 
 inserts. AxM shells are identical, all AxF shells are identical. The 
 difference is the inserts. 
 
 One good place to buy them is Full Compass, in Madison, WI. 
 
 73, Jim Brown K9YC
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Provocative Kenwood Advert working link here

2010-07-03 Thread Brett Howard
Interesting point!  I talked to a lot of people at Seaside who decided
that the K3 wasn't their radio because it didn't have a built in fish
finder as many of them called panadapters...  This was usually said
by people who were seeing the P3 for the first time and were finally
considering the K3 as a radio they could now own because it has a
panadapter...  But boy with this radio not having an IF out people
won't even be able to use LP-PAN or anything like that to make it
happen...  Seems like adding a feature like an IF out probably
wouldn't have added too horribly much cost to things either...  But
hey everything is a trade off.. I'm sure they'll sell some!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 4:17 AM, Jeff KB2M k...@comcast.net wrote:
 What I don't like about the new Kenwood is that it doesn't have an IF out. I
 think they shot themselves in the foot on that one.

 73 Jeff kb2m


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of juergen
 Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 1:47 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector; n...@n5ge.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Provocative Kenwood Advert working link here

 Hi

 I see no advantages over the K3, so why would you even consider this new
 model Kenwood? If it was a 1000 dollar radio that might  be a good a reason
 for a change.

 As I see it the Kenwood has less  knobs and  functionality on its front
 panel than the K3.

 The transmitter uses 12 volt devices so the IMD is probably going to be
 below acceptable standards.

 It does not look like the new Kenwood  has  remote direct internet control
 like the TS480.

 This is just a TS570S on steroids for the receiver, it aint gonna set the
 world on fire.

 All I am waiting for now is Icoms down conversion radio. I would not be
 surprised if they released something like the IC706 with a down conversion
 receiver just to be  trendy. Despite what Icom says it will produce a down
 conversion radio. They had a good one the IC751A.

  It would be  hard for Icom too brag about receiver performance when this
 cheap lowly Kenwood will kick the crap out of its $10K IC78000, not a good
 look in the market place!

 Stay tuned for the new movie, Fiddler on the roofing filter! It stars the
 3 Samurai's

 73
 John









 --- On Fri, 7/2/10, Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com wrote:

 From: Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Provocative Kenwood Advert working link here
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 9:32 PM
 On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 17:33:21 -0400,
 DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL doug...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Oh! Wow!  It has ten Hz display resolution!



 Thanks to Lew K6LMP for posting this.  Once you
 get there, double
 click the icon.
 
 http://public.me.com/lewphelps
 
 
 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] WJST and the K3

2010-07-03 Thread Brett Howard
Doesn't look like it'll fit... Where as the Tamura has 3 possible pins
on a side at .01 spacing the Bourns part has 4 possible pin locations
per side at the same .01 spacing...  So they aren't going to be pretty
drop in replacements.'

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 4:48 AM, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote:
 So the K3 has a fully floating ground on the line audio input, isolated
 from
 the chassis??? Is that correct? 73 Tom

 The K3's line input transformer primary is connected to the 1/8 TRS jack
 using tip and sleeve where the sleeve floats above chassis ground.

 The on-line schematic of the KIO3 board was revised a few weeks ago and it
 looks like the Bourns LM-NP-1001 transformer may now be an alternative from
 Elecraft although I haven't looked at pin compatibility with the existing
 Tamura TTC-108 transformers.

 According to Jack Smith's measurements, the Bourns transformers have very
 good frequency response and THD characteristics as long as input levels
 remain at typical -10 dBV from consumer-grade PC sound cards.  At just USD
 $1.75 ea. from Mouser, they look like a good value.

 Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] scanning

2010-07-03 Thread Brett Howard
You need to fully recall the memory into the VFO before hitting scan...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sat, 2010-07-03 at 16:36 -0400, Jack Colson wrote:
 I am unable to enable the scan function.  I have stored two frequencies 
 in memory locations 90 and 91.  According to the manual(version D4 page 
 40) simply depress MV, hold scan button for 2 seconds and you will see 
 AF ON.  Well holding SCAN does nothing and  do not see the AF msg nor 
 SCAN.
 
 This must be simple but it eludes me.  I am running the latest F/W 
 version 4.03.
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 Thank you,
 73
 Jack, W3TMZ 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] scanning

2010-07-03 Thread Brett Howard
I find that using M1-M4 as band segment memories works quite well for
me...  I'll use M1 as a CW band segment, M2 as an SSB band segment, M3
as a data modes segment...  

Then I can quickly recall them and start scanning that segment.  They
also make for a quick way to get where I want to be...  Say I'm on 20
SSB and want to get to 40 CW...  

MV, 4, MV, M1 

4 button presses and I'm right where I want to be ready to go.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-03 at 16:39 -0600, Duncan Carter wrote:
 There is a macro in the down loadable Programmer's Reference called 
 SCANNOW that can make scanning simpler to use, especially for for 
 fequencies that you use infrequently.  You can also use the M-V and V-M 
 to enter frequencies in the K3 memory for VFO A and VFO that you wish to 
 recall more frequently.
 
 Dunc, W5DC
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP Board Upgrade Info

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
Here are the files that Andy has put together.  I'm sure they'll prove
useful to some:

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_2

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_2

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK PTT doesn't work with USB to serial converter

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
Heck a lot of the current quality DMM's will take this in stride...  One
of the tests we do when demoing meters (and I've seen it done commonly
from reviewers) is to run a meter through the different feature settings
while connected to the mains.  Often we'll just dump the probes into the
wall at 120VAC (or often 240VAC) then slowly turn the meters knob
through all possible settings.  Then run the knob back to off, remove
probes from the wall and power the unit back on.  If its not still
working perfectly and within its calibration spec we won't buy them.
Every Agilent and Fluke meter I've tried this with passed with flying
colors.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-03 at 20:30 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Mike and Casey,
 
 DO NOT put an ohmmeter across the RS-232 pins if you value your 
 ohmmeter.  You can use a voltmeter to see what the voltage levels are.  
 They should go from greater than 3 volts negative to greater than 3 
 volts positive - the absolute value of the voltages could be as great as 
 15 volts, but more likely 12 in a PC environment.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Mike wrote:
  If you can 
  toggle RTS, you could put an ohmeter across the output and see if it 
  changes state.
 

 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK PTT doesn't work with USB to serial converter

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
I got a used Fluke 179 for a pretty dang reasonable price that I use for
home use.  I don't see them as all that much more extravagant than say a
K3 purchase.  Its one of those things that can be seen as one of the
best of breeds and will last you a long time.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 09:14 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:
 Also, Brett, most of us, and most new hams cannot or do not buy Fluke or 
 Agilent meters on our budgets, hi.  Unfortunately the price line we buy 
 won't pass that test.  Just a thought.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Frequency Memory Editor

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
Its only been released to some of the field testers at the moment.  It
has been getting put through its paces so that its truly ready for prime
time once it drops...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 19:46 +, d_jo...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 Has the K3 Frequency Memory Editor been release yet?  (Referenced on page 16 
 in Rev D7 of the Owner's Manual).  I've looked in both of the K3 software 
 pages and haven't been able to locate it.
 
  
 
 Tnx  73
 
 Doug,  VE3MV
 
  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] A thought regarding new radios

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
And don't forget you also improve value by not having to pay for
features that you won't use.  Don't need a tuner?  You don't have to pay
for one...  Don't want two receivers?  You don't have to pay for both of
them...  

Then on another note...  Want two receivers but don't have the money to
pay for one now?  Get on the air with part of the radio and add that
which you want later...  

My family loves my K3 as it has made for an avenue of Xmas presents for
the guy who has everything for a few years coming now... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 14:36 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Some companies bring out new transceiver models every year or two. Our  
 philosophy is different. We'll continue improving the K3, protecting  
 your investment. Similarly, the P3 and KPA500 will extend the  
 capabilities of the K3 without any need to replace the rig itself.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP Board Upgrade Info

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1493706/K3/K3%20DSP%20Upgrade%20PDFs/Elecraft%20Low%20Frequency%20Audio%20Mods%202010_1.pdf

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1493706/K3/K3%20DSP%20Upgrade%20PDFs/Elecraft%20Low%20frequency%20Audio%20Mods%202010_2.pdf

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1493706/K3/K3%20DSP%20Upgrade%20PDFs/Elecraft%20Low%20Frequency%20Audio%20Mods%202008_1.pdf

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1493706/K3/K3%20DSP%20Upgrade%20PDFs/Elecraft%20Low%20Frequency%20Audio%20Mods%202008_2.pdf

or shortened versions of the same 4 links

http://tinyurl.com/25vrfa2
http://tinyurl.com/2gyxb5p

http://tinyurl.com/2detvx3
http://tinyurl.com/2bbgev7

Hopefully one of these forms works for people...


-- Forwarded message --
From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
Date: Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP Board Upgrade Info
To: Andy Wood vk...@woodtech.net.au
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


Here are the files that Andy has put together.  I'm sure they'll prove
useful to some:

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_2

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_2

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Saving and Recalling M1-M4 per-band quick memories

2010-07-04 Thread Brett Howard
Ok not sure if I am understanding this wrong or not...  But I've
configured my M1-M4 as follows:

M1 = 14.0 - 14.15 - CW mode - width 350Hz
M2 = 14.15 - 14.35 - SSB mode - width 1.5K w/ a shift of .95
M3 = 14.03 - 0.000 - Data Mode (FSK D) - width 500Hz Dual PB
M4 = 14.03 - 14.06 - Data Mode (PSK D) - width 1.5Khz

I was then able to recall these just fine...  However as soon as I
tapped HI/WIDTH twice to view the width it would then update the
passband icon and  show the BW to be 500Hz.  Then subsequent
recallings of M4 recall the memory with a 500Hz BW.  Does seem like
something is slightly amiss there...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 3:04 PM,  d_jo...@sympatico.ca wrote:




 

 Perhaps someone can clarify / correct my use of the per-band quick
 memories.  I'm using M1 to M4 to save sub-band frequencies and filter
 positions with BW settings in each of the bands 160 thru 10 and having a
 problem.

 Installed roofing filters are 2.8, 1.8, 1.0, 400  250.  Firmware is 4.03 /
 2.60.

 For example on 20 Meters if I save 14,010 and BW of 450 using FL4 with VM,
 M1 - I can recall it correctly with MV, M1.  If I save 14,195 and BW of 2.1
 using FL1 with VM, M3 - I can recall it correctly with MV, M3.

 The problem is with two data modes memory settings on 20M at M2  M4.  If I
 save 14,080 and BW of 450 (and dual passband) using FL4 (for RTTY) - that
 saves and recalls correctly to / from M2.   However, if I save 14070 and BW
 of 3KHz (for PSK) using FL1 and save it to M4, then go to one of M1, M2 or
 M3 freq BW set and then try to recall M4 it comes up at the correct
 frequency but the filter BW is now back to 450 Hz using FL3 (the setting I
 used for M2). (The filter graphic seems to be correct but the actual filter
 is not as previously set.)  It seems that there is only one allowed set of
 BW and Filter setting for the two Data modes.  (I'm using FSK-D for RTTY and
 PSK-D for PSK).

 Can anyone offer an explanation or correction of what what I'm doing wrong?
 Or is this a limitation of what can be saved in the memory positions M1 -
 M4?

 The manual isn't really too clear on this level of detail.

 Thanks  73

 Doug   VE3MV
 K3/100 s/n 2432







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[Elecraft] Auto Bandpass Filter

2010-07-05 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so I'm looking for an auto band pass filter to use with the K3...
Would be slick if the filter could be interfaced directly to the K3 but
I'm planning on needing a band decoder/smart switch for different
widgets later in life that I've been planning on starting so this may be
the opportunity for that project to need to start.

Anyway I've been trying to find all my options and some pros/cons of the
different solutions from people who have experience with them.  These
are the units I've found...  Please let me know if you have experience
with these such as ease of interfacing, build quality, power handling,
longevity, loss, out of band attenuation and what not.

Array Solutions FilterMAX II: 
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Hamation/bandpassfilters.htm#top%20of%
20page

Array Solutions Filter Master (FM-6):
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/wx0bbpf6.htm

I.C.E. 419B
http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html#3

DuneStar Model 600:

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Re: [Elecraft] Auto Bandpass Filter (sorry sent too soon)

2010-07-05 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so I'm looking for an auto band pass filter to use with the K3...
Would be slick if the filter could be interfaced directly to the K3 but
I'm planning on needing a band decoder/smart switch for different
widgets later in life that I've been planning on starting so this may be
the opportunity for that project to need to start.

Anyway I've been trying to find all my options and some pros/cons of the
different solutions from people who have experience with them.  These
are the units I've found...  Please let me know if you have experience
with these such as ease of interfacing, build quality, power handling,
longevity, loss, out of band attenuation and what not.

Array Solutions FilterMAX II: 
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Hamation/bandpassfilters.htm#top%20of%20page

Array Solutions Filter Master (FM-6):
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/wx0bbpf6.htm

I.C.E. 419B
http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html#3

DuneStar Model 600:
http://www.dunestar.com/model600.htm

Well crud I ended up sending too soon (hit ctrl+enter on accident)

Anyway I've considered the FilterMAX II as it seems to be the best built
with a nice modular filter replacement scheme but its the most
expensive.  I wish that they were a bit more informative in the manual
and explained what the pinouts were and how the thing determined what
band to be on.  The switches mentioned don't really make a whole lot of
sense as there are more positions mentioned than one can hold as far as
filters...  Confusing to say the least but I'm sure once I had one in
hand I could figure it out.

Then there is the filter master 6 which is a slick little idea in that
its just a coax switch essentially and then one can use individual
filters from Dunestar, ICE, or Array Solutions (I'm sure there are
others that I'm forgetting and I'd like to know about)...  I have the
same gripe about not explaining the pin outs here but I'd bet it has the
same configuration as the FilterMAX II

Then there is the I.C.E. 419B which seems like its awfully small in
comparison to some of the other units.  I begin to wonder about its
power handling but I have a friend who has their individual filters and
seems quite happy with them.  I don't think he uses them very often
though so I don't know about longevity really or about power handling
all that much.  I do mostly CW but would also like to be able to use
this system during a RTTY contest at 100W.

Finally the Dunestar model looks like its ok however power ratings seem
a bit scary.  All they state is that the filters are intended for use
wiht transceivers and then state that this is not to imply a 100% duty
cycle.  What the heck does that mean?  

Anyway input is greatly appreciated.

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Re: [Elecraft] 6M CW

2010-07-06 Thread Brett Howard
Heck I guess I'll stop doing that...  I've just kinda learned from
listening to the bands.  I'm finally getting my speed up fast enough
that actually carrying on a QSO is possible.  At 8WPM your RST, Name,
QTH, RIG and ANT is a 30 to 40 minute conversation.  ;)  However at
13WPM I've been able to actually have conversations with people about
the K3 find out that they've recently retired and what they used to do
and well all sorts of fun stuff... (I'm referring to a 40 minute
conversation that I had on 40 last night...)  

Then heck I ran into a guy the other day who was only about 20 minutes
bike ride from here.  We ended up having a 1.6 hour or so QSO.  Both of
our brains were going to mush by the end as we were both working hard
for it but hey its fun!

I'm by no means an old salt at the age of 29 but I do try to be polite
and do find it fun to get into the longer QSO's via CW.  I often find
that SSB bores me for casual operating but I do find SSB interesting for
contests.

But anyway just wanted to let you know that your post has hit home with
someone and I'll start sending my call a few times when answering a
CQ...  I usually figure that I want to try and get in there quick before
their auto repeat kicks in  Then if they need a fill we can always
take care of that later.  Guess I've been being rude all this time and
had no idea.

Sorry...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-07-05 at 16:13 -0500, Sandy wrote:
 This phenomenon is not restricted to 6 meters!  The same thing happens on HF 
 as well: people looking for club numbers, grid squares, counties,etc., 
 etc.  The whole contest mentality has corrupted all the old and polite 
 methods of establishing a QSO when there are no contests at all!  Also the 
 Elmers of today, aided and abetted by the ARRL, have all but completely 
 eliminated the normal calling protocols of yesteryear.  It isn't at all 
 unusual to tune up and send a few V's  and have someone just drop their 
 callsign on you just ONCE!  As I now an old timer in age and amateur 
 radio, I wonder when this happens.  Is this chap calling me?  Is he just 
 testing?  Even if you send QRZ? de W5TVW K you may just get a callsign 
 sent ONCE!  Also people sending: DE W4ABC instead of calling CQ. 
 Newer QRPers answering a CQ call just sending their callsign just ONCE! 
 There isn't that all important OPERATING section still published in the 
 Handbook!  Guess the folks at ARRL thought they could make a few extra 
 bucks by publishing a special book dealing with that subject that obviously 
 everyone ISNT buying!
 I enjoy contests on CW doing QRP and usually these are limited to a small 
 segment of the CW sub-band, and they don't seem to be on every weekend.  6 
 meters used to be a  really fun band back in the AM phone days, but I 
 didn't figure it would be degraded to nothing but hello, goodbye type 
 contacts.
 
 Sorry for this, guess I sound like a grouchy old fart but where has all 
 the politeness gone?
 
 73,
 
 Sandy W5TVW
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 To: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 2:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6M CW
 
 
 I don't feel that way at all. A contact in which only grids are exchanged 
 leaves me with little satisfaction at all. I at least like to exchange names 
 and QTH. I get enough of the quicky QSOs with contests. I don't need more on 
 six meters or digital contacts. I know I am out of step with the avant 
 guarde, but I don't enjoy six meters much because of these quick exchanges.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 10:41:55 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] 6M CW
 
 On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 08:29:08 -0700 (PDT), Ken McGuire wrote:
 
 I was frustrated at how slow the chats were on SSB (FM was even worse) -
 it seemed like they were wasting a perfectly good band opening ragchewing
 
 Yep. Same here. Often, an opening on any given path may be there only long
 enough to exchange the grid and report. It's quite frustrating to wait to
 call a station that was S9, then S7, then S5, then S3, then fumes, while
 the time is filled with innanity.
 
 When I turned down to the CW portion of the band, it almost sounded like
 a CW contest weekend.
 
 Yes. I've gotten to the point that I spend most of my 6M efforts on CW,
 only tuning up to the SSB portion of the band when nothing is happening on
 CW. And thanks in part to the proliferation of K3s, there is a lot more CW
 activity than there was only 5 years ago.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] YABD - (Yet Another Band Decoder)

2010-07-07 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so I've been looking at setting up a set of bandpass filters that
are automatically selected based on the K3's VFO.  I'd like later
flexibility to grow this into a much more complicated system with
possible antenna switches and amplifiers...  I know that everyone has
a different setup with their own requirements and everyone wants
things a little different.

So I thought that building a band decoder would be fun.  I'm planning
on building the band decoder using an ARM Coretex M3 processor running
at 48Mhz.  This project is planned to be done completely openly.  I'm
starting a web page for the project here
(http://k3decoder.googlecode.com).  There you can see the beginnings
of the board that we're going to start with.  I've got documentation
on the board as well as the processor that resides on this board.
I've also placed links to the operating system we're planning on
running as well as the schematic capture and layout tools we're
planning on using.  These tools are still preliminary and we're
willing to take suggestions.

The engineering requirements for the 1.0 release of the software is
being put together in wiki form here
(http://code.google.com/p/k3decoder/wiki/EngineeringRequirementsRel1_0).
 Anyone who wishes can leave comments on these requirements.  We'll
discuss it and determine how things should look.  I should be getting
the first development platform here in a few days and will get started
publishing code out to the site that anyone will have access to via
SVN.  While the code will be open to anyone to capture and view during
the process we're probably going to not accept contributions or
patches against the source until the 1.0 release milestone is reached.

The development platform can be purchased for $60USD.  From there
there will be a driver board that a schematic will be created for.
This driver board will connect to the .1 header location at the
bottom of the development platform.  All parts will be purchasable
through DigiKey and part numbers/links to the order pages will be
documented to make it easy for anyone to build one of these and get
the software loaded into it.

I'd greatly appreciate any and all input on what should be included in
a basic band decoder in order to be considered a successful 1.0
release.  If there thoughts and inputs that are beyond initial scope
perhaps I'll start a 2.0 milestone requirements document for further
discussion.

Thanks much!

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] YABD - (Yet Another Band Decoder)

2010-07-07 Thread Brett Howard
Yes we're kinda modeling this to be an open source version of the
KRC2.  Essentially so that anyone can put one together themselves if
they wish.

So imagine it kinda like the KRC2 (except with an OLED display) and
the hood is up so people can cheer and jeer about how it works and see
things get updated and change.  Not to mention that if they want to
try and help they can get access to the code and make improvements
that everyone can take advantage of.

There is a section on the project page where if someone finds an issue
they can submit their issue.  This is the list that keeps getting
talked about so much as far as K3 development stuff.  On this the
list will be public so that anyone who wishes to can put up their
issues.  These issues can then be assigned to people and updates can
be put into these issues.  In other words if another user finds
another way to replicate the issue they can add that information to
the issue.  As well when a developer makes a change they can post the
status of their work to that issue and anyone who wishes to be
notified regarding changes to any issue can subscribe and receive an
email on any new information.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 2:34 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Brett,

 Can I put in a plug for the Elecraft KRC2?  It may provide a bit more
 flexibility down the road for you.  It is a band decoder and more.
 Maybe not for you because this sounds like something you really want to
 create, but others may not be as ambitious.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Brett Howard wrote:

 Ok so I've been looking at setting up a set of bandpass filters that
 are automatically selected based on the K3's VFO.  I'd like later
 flexibility to grow this into a much more complicated system with
 possible antenna switches and amplifiers...  I know that everyone has
 a different setup with their own requirements and everyone wants
 things a little different.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

2010-07-10 Thread Brett Howard
No the K3 already has transformer isolated line in and line out
connections.  These make for very simple connections to onboard sound
cards and if you need an outboard sound card with just two 3.5mm audio
ports these can be had for less than 20 bucks online.  

Keeping things in this fashion keeps the higher noise digital equipment
outside of your highly sensitive receiver.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-10 at 14:50 +0200, Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
 This is a question to the development team: are there any thoughts or 
 possibilities to add a USB port to the K3 or P3 which could introduce a 
 USB soundcard to the K3 like it is in the IC-7200 or the upcoming TS-
 590s (?) 
 
 73! de Werner OE9FWV
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

2010-07-10 Thread Brett Howard
I've got a sound good sound card that I just installed into the computer
and it already is very easy to use digital modes with the K3 without an
external device.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-10 at 12:48 -0700, oe9fwv wrote:
 I don't trust the quality of an external soundcard of this price. It might be
 sufficient for PSK31 but probably not for Winmor. The Signalink USB is good,
 but not for 20 bucks. 
 I have not heard of a problem with the DSP in the IC-7200 or 7600. 
 From what I have heard this is not a real soundcard but the IF passband
 after the DSP is sent to the audio codec via USB. 
 It would make it very easy using the K3 for digital soundcard modes without
 another external device.
 
 73! de Werner OE9FWV
 
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] continuous relay click in RX ANT IN

2010-07-11 Thread Brett Howard
I had this going on too and a really slick way to fix the problem is
with an RF limiter...

http://www.iceradioproducts.com/reconly.html#rflimiter

I.C.E. makes a very cost effective unit that gets the job done very
well...  I ordered the 196 unit and then I didn't want to have it with
RCA connectors on it so I asked them to build it wit the BNC connectors
like they do on the VHF unit.  They had no problem with that and did so
no extra cost.  

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-11 at 18:27 -0300, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
 ems is the proximity of the antennas.
 
 I was using a sloper for 160 mts from a 118ft tower and the 40-2CD was
 on
 top of this tower.
 
 So I couldn´t connect the 40-2CD in the RX ANT IN.
 
 So I switch the knob in my sixpack to listen in the 40 and then switch
 again
 to TX on the 160 antenna, hope this will not cause a problem in the
 rig?
 
 Thanks! 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

2010-07-15 Thread Brett Howard
You're still not going to get access to both IFs at the same time though...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jul 14, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
 I have kind of ignoring this thread, but just realized that it
 addresses a long-term desire of mine.  I would like to tap the IQ
 data for both the main and sub receivers simultaneously for pc
 processing with special eme sw.  I can do one channel using the
 SDR-IQ but there are advantages to having two channels (polarity
 diversity reception).  Both channels need to be phase-locked in
 freq.  My discussions with Wayne indicate that it may be possible
 interface at a later time thru the P3.

 To take advantage of the 15-KHz SDR in the K3 this interface will
 eventually very desirable.  That opens the K3 to equal footing with
 other SDR's to fulfill the no obsolescence promise of SDR.

 73, Ed - KL7UW

 --

 Message: 6
 Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:10:17 -0700
 From: Kok Chen c...@mac.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 2e745a19-d7ed-4bb1-a9c6-d7080d6e1...@mac.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes


 On Jul 10, 2010, at 7/10    2:57 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

   If one were going to provide digital output, it would be far better
   to stream the raw in I/Q data from the DSP's ADC via firewire rather
   than push it through two additional A/D and D/A steps and reduce it
   to a single channel of audio.

 FireWire is not necessarily a great solution either.  It will
 definitely require special drivers at the computer end (viz, the
 Edirol FA-66 that is common in ham SDR circles).

 One good connection that I have come across is S/PDIF that is
 available on the Icom IC-7800.  It allows a connection between the
 radio and the computer that is completely non-galvanic.   No ground
 loops, no RFI, down to -144 dB.

 S/PDIF provides an audio path with up to 20 bits of resolution (about
 120 dB, with 1 bit being 6.02 dB), with 24 bits being an option by
 using the extra 4 steering bits as data.

 The standard sampling rate for S/PDIF is 48,000 samples per second
 stereo, which would support almost 50 kHz of bandwidth on an baseband
 I/Q channel.  S/PDIF provides up to about 30 feet separation between
 equipment.

 Both Firewire and S/PDIF lacks a standard way of passing control/
 status signals. The Flex-5000 (which uses FireWire) used to hack into
 the MIDI (Musical Instrument Digital Interface) channel for control/
 status; but I have not been following that development and it might
 have since changed.  The Icom IC-7800 goes through its regular CAT
 path (RS-232 or CI-V, you get to choose, I believe).

 In any case, if you want a rig like the K3 to support 123 dB of
 dynamic range I/Q output, it will not come cheap.  The Asahi AK-5394A
 is probably the most expensive component in the front end of the
 Flex-5000, and you have to be very careful with the circuit layout to
 get a -125 dB noise floor when mixing analog and digital components.

 We are definitely not talking about 16-bit codecs like the one in the
 SignaLink USB -- which by the way, is a TI/Burr-Brown PCM-2902, and it
 is not the $20 that people have been mentioning, but is $5.85 at
 DigiKey :-).

 73
 Chen, W7AY



 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 144-QRT*, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-fall 2010
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 ==
 *temp

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on Order

2010-07-16 Thread Brett Howard
The main reason why most devices take DC in rather than bringing in
direct AC is because they can pass all the safety work on to the brick
manufacturer and it saves them a lot of money in the regulatory end.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 9:08 AM, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote:
 Sharing a single power supply between the transmitter and
 accessories is a very good way to create RFI (even with
 a dummy load) due to the pin 1 problem in nearly every
 amateur rig ever built.

 I completely agree with Joe, but I'm guilty of using a common supply for the
 K3 and switching-type accessories.

 However, if a common supply is used with a distribution block, consider
 connecting the K3 direct to the power supply terminals and not a port on the
 distribution block.  Then, if a power distribution block is used, route
 accessories from the power supply terminals to the block, especially if one
 is insistent on running audio accessories from the +12V bus.

 The W2IHY products can be powered by +12V and seem to be very popular.  When
 using  a W2IHY device, it would be better to use the supplied wall-wart than
 be tempted to use a common +12V power bus.  If I was designing a similar
 device, I would rather design it for use with an AC wall transformer (AC
 in/out), then rectify and filter inside the audio device.  The added benefit
 is that bi-polar supply rails can be easily created with an AC input.

 Paul, W9AC.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DVR question

2010-07-16 Thread Brett Howard
I don't think there is currently a way to do this.  Your best bet is to
email Wayne and ask that it be added to the list.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-16 at 20:41 -0400, Gary Dezern wrote:
 Anyone?
 
 On Jul 10, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Gary Dezern wrote:
 
  I just installed the DVR module in my K3, and I have a question on how to 
  use it:
  
  
  I like leaving the AF REC turned on full time, as I find it very useful 
  to instant reply a call sign or something else significant
  
  I also like using the voice memories - for example kilo three whiskey 
  oscar whiskey is probably permanently recorded as M1.
  
  Those two items, however, seem to not work well together.  If I have AF REC 
  turned on, when I press M1, instead of the radio TX'ing my callsign, the 
  radio just mutes for a few seconds without transmitting anything at all 
  (and it has the side effect of turning OFF the AF REC.)   (If I turn AF REC 
  off first, the M1 memory works as expected.)
  
  Is there any way to use the voice memories while also recording via AF REC?
  
  Thanks
  Gary / k3wow
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[Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

2010-07-22 Thread Brett Howard
Ok figured I'd ask here and see if someone had some input on the
differences here.  Hopefully someone has done more design with these
than I...

My application is that I'm looking for connectors to install on some
high end home made band-pass filters.

83-1R;
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-SO-239/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kucWGwVoNS6TyriIimuNw9A%3d
83-1R-RFX:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-RFX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kqBNVAfbUIcAaUNmqqZ3zpA%3d
83-798:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-798/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kptFUq3vT%252bWoMcHyGEmWyaU%3d

The 83-1R is a number I've seen a lot in usage and its the connector I'm
leaning toward.  It is also the cheapest of the 3.  I know they are all
going to be good connectors but is there any benefit to going with the
other two versions?  I believe that the RFX version is a commercial
version of the same thing (at only 20 cents more) but I don't know what
the difference is.  Finally the 83-798 claims to be an SO-239A
connector...  I tried doing a search for SO-239 vs SO-239A and in a
quick gander didn't turn up much...  Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

2010-07-22 Thread Brett Howard
Based on W3NQN's filters and rated for 200W.

Makes sense on the teflon insulator...  I assume that that only makes
the difference when doing higher power?  I do think that whenever I'm
making an antenna that is to have a connector blow torch soldered to a
copper pipe or something I'm going to buy one of those!  Now I just
wonder what the difference in the small price jump delta between RFX
and non RFX is...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 6:34 AM, Bob Naumann w...@w5ov.com wrote:
 The 83-798A has a Teflon insulator - this is what makes it different.

 They're all equivalent for low frequency, low power (200w) work which I
 presume your bandpass filters will be.

 High-End? What design?



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
 Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:22 AM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

 Ok figured I'd ask here and see if someone had some input on the
 differences here.  Hopefully someone has done more design with these
 than I...

 My application is that I'm looking for connectors to install on some
 high end home made band-pass filters.

 83-1R;
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-SO-239/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt
 qi3rrGzC6kucWGwVoNS6TyriIimuNw9A%3d
 83-1R-RFX:
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-RFX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3
 rrGzC6kqBNVAfbUIcAaUNmqqZ3zpA%3d
 83-798:
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-798/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrG
 zC6kptFUq3vT%252bWoMcHyGEmWyaU%3d

 The 83-1R is a number I've seen a lot in usage and its the connector I'm
 leaning toward.  It is also the cheapest of the 3.  I know they are all
 going to be good connectors but is there any benefit to going with the
 other two versions?  I believe that the RFX version is a commercial
 version of the same thing (at only 20 cents more) but I don't know what
 the difference is.  Finally the 83-798 claims to be an SO-239A
 connector...  I tried doing a search for SO-239 vs SO-239A and in a
 quick gander didn't turn up much...  Any input would be appreciated.

 Thanks

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Repair backlog catch-up ...

2010-07-22 Thread Brett Howard
Rene put in a few weekends to get things down to that...  The guy's
dedicated!  Fun guy to talk to...  But you end up finding a lot of guys
like that in this hobby!

Thanks Rene!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, 2010-07-22 at 14:34 -0400, w0...@aol.com wrote:
 This week I sent my K3 for a factory update inasmuch as 4500 K3s have been  
 built since mine.
  
 The pleasant surprise was being told July 19 by Elecraft's Ms.  Madelyn the 
 turn-around would be two weeks.
  
 Thanks, Elecraft crew, one and all!
  
 Bill, W0WOI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Feature Request - Stopping CW Memory Playback with PTT

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
While this is true I still feel that any KEY_IN source be it PTT or VOX
or the paddles it should interrupt the memory keyer. 

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-23 at 02:53 -0500, Bob Naumann wrote:
 The paddle is the most logical device to use to stop the CW from the radio's
 memories.
 
 In a contest, you should probably be using the CW sending capability of your
 logging program instead of the radio's memories as it most likely allows
 hitting of the Esc key on your keyboard to stop the CW which I'm sure you'd
 find more convenient.
 
 73,
 
 Bob W5OV
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy Wood
 Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:57 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Feature Request - Stopping CW Memory Playback with
 PTT
 
 
 I have recently entered into the world of CW and participated in my first
 contest using both SSB and CW modes. I noticed that you cannot stop the CW
 memory playback by activating the PTT (either from a microphone attached to
 the front panel or a footswitch plugged in the rear). It could only be
 stopped by touching the paddle.
 
 Could this be implemented in a future firmware version? There is also the
 possibility that there may be a very good reason not to.
 
 Andy  VK4KY
 
 
 


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[Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
I'll preface this by explaining that I'm a digital guy and I've lately
decided I want to get a little better understanding of magnetics and
RF...  Thus why I'm taking on making my own W3NQN band pass filters and
I've also been interested in building a Balun...

So I've looked at a few sites describing how to make a 4:1 balun...  One
such solution is to take 2 100 ohm 1:1 baluns and connect them in
parallel on the input side and in series on the output side...  

I looked at the Elecraft BL1 manual but I didn't see what material the
core was...  However in another article I saw someone post the recommend
getting a FT140-61 and winding 7 to 8 turns on each side to make the two
100 ohm feedlines.

So I ran the numbers and 8 turns on a FT140-61 gives you about 100 ohms
on 160 meters.  Thus two 100 ohm points in parallel gives you 50 ohms in
and 200 ohms out.  4:1... Great.  

However at say 40 meters...  Each feedline is 430 ohms.  Thus you've got
a 215ohm input and a 860 ohm output.  This just seems like it would make
a mess.  Why does it still work?

Finally I'll explain my final goal...  I've looked at several ways to
make a 4:1 which involves using two 1:1's.  Then there are methods to
take 2 4:1's to make a 6:1 (the feedlines are 125ohm windings to pull
this off).  My final goal is to try to make a 6:1 and use it to use
ladder line once I get through the wall with coax.  I always just
figured that a 6:1 would be better as it would have a 50 ohm in and a
true 300 ohm out.

However once you get away from the design frequency the feed impedances
go to pot...  So is there really much difference in the 6:1 and the 4:1?
I've read of many people doing what I'm talking about with a 4:1 and
just figured that a 6:1 should provide a better match...  Am I thinking
right or is the match so terrible anyway that it doesn't so much
matter?  

Is it just that the thing balances the currents on the outputs and I'm
just over thinking the matching ability?

Appreciated gentlemen.

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location...

Soon here I should have all sorts of cores and wire and I was planning
on trying a few of these and measuring them with the 259B and seeing
how they come out.  But to go beyond that I'll need some sort of
antenna probably to do further testing cause I don't have enough loads
nor do I have a 200ohm dummy... ;)

I'll be ordering the Sevik book as well...

Thanks gentlemen.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 9:38 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
 On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 06:34:54 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:

The 100 ohms is the differential impedance, or transmission
line impedance

 Tom is the balun expert around here, but he isn't telling you
 everything he knows, so I'll float a simple 4:1 balun design
 that should work quite well up to moderate power levels. As
 Tom's analysis shows (on his link), there are conditions of use
 where high power can overheat it.

 So to respond to your question with a direct answer, for a 4:1
 balun, I would build it from two common mode chokes, each choke
 wound on its own 2.4-inch o.d. #31 toroid. Each choke needs 14
 bifilar turns of #14 THHN. As you have noted, the chokes should
 be wired in parallel on the 50 ohm side and in series on the
 200 ohm side. One of the important conditions that makes this
 work (or not work) is that the common mode impedance must be
 quite high to prevent the choke from overheating, and to
 minimize power loss. These chokes provide nearly 5000 ohms
 common mode impedance from 2-30 MHz. The impedance is
 predominantly resistive.

 Bifilar means that you form a transmission line from two equal
 lengths of the #14 THHN, tightly spaced so that their
 insulation touches, and either tape them together or hold them
 together with Ty-wraps, then wind that parallel wire
 transmission line around the toroid. You'll need 2.5 inches of
 each wire per turn, plus 5 inches for connections at the ends,
 then cut off the excess after winding. Sevick said that such a
 line is pretty close to 100 ohms, and my measurements suggest
 that he was right. Two of these in series/parallel gives you a
 pretty good 50:200 balun.

 What are conditions that can overheat it?  Running high power
 (greater than about 500 watts) AND in a condition that places
 high common mode voltage on it. You might also get into trouble
 at somewhat less power with key-down modes like RTTY. High
 common mode voltage will be present if the antenna is severely
 unbalanced (for example, an off-center fed antenna), or if the
 transmission line is close to a half wave (or multiple of half
 waves). At low power, you'll never run into a situation that
 will overheat a balun like this, but you could when running
 high power.

 There's a tutorial on my website that talks extensively about
 common mode chokes. It is NOT about baluns, and I don't pretend
 to be an expert on baluns, but I do know a lot about common
 mode chokes. :)

 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

 73, Jim Brown K9YC






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Re: [Elecraft] OT: SO-239 Connector Selection

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
I ended up getting the commercial version of the connector.  There
was the cheapest one the commercial one that was only a very small
amount more and then the top one which was quite a lot more...  All
three were Amphenol connectors and I'd already gone to buy Amp but it
was just coming down to which one...  It appears that they all have
different dielectrics (they mention different values) but I didn't
really find a whole lot on the differences between these dielectric
types.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 2:02 AM, Edward R. Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
 Since most of you are talking about HF, I suppose they are fine.

 Professionally, I had the most quality control issues with
 PL-259's.  I quickly decided that only Amphenol brand were to be
 bought.  They had much better plating for soldering.  The problem
 usually came from the extra heat required to solder the shield.  Very
 easy to melt the insulation.  All our antenna were specified with
 N-connectors which have gaskets the provide some wx sealing.  Of
 course we double taped connections that would be outside.

 Anything that requires good impedance match will do better with N,
 TNC, or 7/16 style connectors.

 All my cables even down to 500-KHz use N-connector except where
 connection with a radio or commercial antenna come with UHF.

 73, Ed - KL7UW
 at 1296 up I often use sma connectors on low-power equipment.

 --

 Message: 13
 Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:54:43 -
 From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: SO-239 Connector Selection
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: acdef2099be54aadb7632b69e498b...@shack
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
         reply-type=response


 My experience with SO-239' / PL-259's -was- at
 VHF and UHF, and I said so in my posting.

 I was made aware of this when the Colorado Springs
 radio club ordered a 4-port divider to feed their 2M
 repeater's antennas and they specified / insisted on
 me building it with SO-239's.  I shipped it and within
 a few days they were complaining of high SWR.

 Before getting the original one back I built and
 shipped a second unit, only to get the same report.
 It was only when I built the 3rd unit with N's did it work
 correctly.

 My friends at the NBS labs ... who originated NBS
 yagi design (W0PW / W0EYE) ... along with the
 particular power divider design ... explained
 what was going on.  The non-50 ohm SO-239's
 connected to the 35 ohm transmission line / power
 divider were influencing the impedance of divider.

 My years at CU's radio astronomy lab and the NBS
 cafeteria represent some of the best learning in
 my career.  I learned much via napkin tutoring done
 by some of the nation's best radio minds.

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP



 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 144-QRT*, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-fall 2010
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 ==
 *temp

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
Ok I was referring to a design that was using one core to make a
4:1...  I think the caveat that was being used was that they felt they
could do this and be safe enough with it still being a balun as long
as the load was floating (but I'm not 100% sure thats really the
case)...

So is a multi aperture core good enough for that or would two toroids
be a better idea?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:00 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:
 
 This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
 other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
 ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
 directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
 reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
 hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
 attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
 picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
 one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
 of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location

 If you are talking about two cores in the balun, and each core wound with
 half turns and then flipped with a transposed winding, everyone who has
 measured the fancy winding concludes it does nothing overall except move
 things around.

 If you are talking about winding two 1:1 baluns on a single common core and
 using that to make a 4:1 current balun, I can guarantee you that will not be
 a balun. It will unbalance any balanced load placed on the balun's balanced
 terminals. Each transmission line transformer has to be on its own
 independent core. They cannot share a common flux path.

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
I've heard a lot of really great things about balun designs
products...  And in looking at their 4:1 for dipoles and yagi's it
looks like they are simply doing 2 1:1 baluns on a single core.  Looks
to me like they are even wrapped in the same direction and paralleled
on one side then series on the other end.

http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-56/current-balun-4-cln-1-designs/Detail

However their more general one:
http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-69/4-cln-1-balun/Detail

I can't really trace out how its wired up...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:00 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:
 
 This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
 other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
 ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
 directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
 reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
 hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
 attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
 picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
 one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
 of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location

 If you are talking about two cores in the balun, and each core wound with
 half turns and then flipped with a transposed winding, everyone who has
 measured the fancy winding concludes it does nothing overall except move
 things around.

 If you are talking about winding two 1:1 baluns on a single common core and
 using that to make a 4:1 current balun, I can guarantee you that will not be
 a balun. It will unbalance any balanced load placed on the balun's balanced
 terminals. Each transmission line transformer has to be on its own
 independent core. They cannot share a common flux path.

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
Interesting enough his high power one uses two cores and appears to be
made the same as the budget one that is wound on one core...  Seems
like stacking them on top of one another is going to just couple them
and hinder your isolation but maybe I'm wrong there

http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-78/4-cln-1-dual-core-current/Detail

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:31 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:

 Ok I was referring to a design that was using one core to make a
 4:1...  I think the caveat that was being used was that they felt they
 could do this and be safe enough with it still being a balun as long
 as the load was floating (but I'm not 100% sure thats really the
 case)...

 I can 100% guarantee you that does not balance the load. I know the design
 comes from a source considered reliable, but it is seriously flawed. If you
 want a balanced voltage and/or current into a feedline and a real antenna,
 it cannot happen with that design. It not only does not work in theory, I
 have dozens of actual measurements to support it does not work in the real
 world.

 So is a multi aperture core good enough for that or would two toroids
 be a better idea?

 So long as the multi-aperture core does not have mutual coupling between the
 individual transmission line cores, it would work. Unfortunately that is not
 likely either. :-)

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
Just bought the last copy of this book that Amazon had in stock for
17.95 + 3.99 in shipping.  Looks like it will be a very nice reference
to have on the shelf...

Thanks!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 5:21 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Brett, I would recommend the Book Understanding, Building and Using Baluns
 and Ununs by the late Jerry Sevick, avaliable from CQ
 http://store.cq-amateur-radio.com/Categories.bok?category=Books%3AAntennassearchpath=1547318start=10total=17
 With this book, a BS in Physics, 54 years as a ham and 30 years as an EE I
 finally understood enough to make a balun or an unun.  I don't understand
 them well enough to answer your questions correctly.  I read all the stuff I
 could find on the internet and 50 years of ham magazines before I bought the
 book and was still too confused to pick a core and build the unun that I
 needed.  If you just want a 4:1 balun and don't want a study course, I would
 recommend that you buy one.  If you really need one that works 160 to 10 buy
 an expensive one from a good source, the ones that I tested did not have the
 advertised bandwidth.  I did not test the Elecraft balun, but what I have
 seen of Elecraft engineering would give me confidence to try one.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ

 
 From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
 To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 3:53:42 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

 I'll preface this by explaining that I'm a digital guy and I've lately
 decided I want to get a little better understanding of magnetics and
 RF...  Thus why I'm taking on making my own W3NQN band pass filters and
 I've also been interested in building a Balun...

 So I've looked at a few sites describing how to make a 4:1 balun...  One
 such solution is to take 2 100 ohm 1:1 baluns and connect them in
 parallel on the input side and in series on the output side...

 I looked at the Elecraft BL1 manual but I didn't see what material the
 core was...  However in another article I saw someone post the recommend
 getting a FT140-61 and winding 7 to 8 turns on each side to make the two
 100 ohm feedlines.

 So I ran the numbers and 8 turns on a FT140-61 gives you about 100 ohms
 on 160 meters.  Thus two 100 ohm points in parallel gives you 50 ohms in
 and 200 ohms out.  4:1... Great.

 However at say 40 meters...  Each feedline is 430 ohms.  Thus you've got
 a 215ohm input and a 860 ohm output.  This just seems like it would make
 a mess.  Why does it still work?

 Finally I'll explain my final goal...  I've looked at several ways to
 make a 4:1 which involves using two 1:1's.  Then there are methods to
 take 2 4:1's to make a 6:1 (the feedlines are 125ohm windings to pull
 this off).  My final goal is to try to make a 6:1 and use it to use
 ladder line once I get through the wall with coax.  I always just
 figured that a 6:1 would be better as it would have a 50 ohm in and a
 true 300 ohm out.

 However once you get away from the design frequency the feed impedances
 go to pot...  So is there really much difference in the 6:1 and the 4:1?
 I've read of many people doing what I'm talking about with a 4:1 and
 just figured that a 6:1 should provide a better match...  Am I thinking
 right or is the match so terrible anyway that it doesn't so much
 matter?

 Is it just that the thing balances the currents on the outputs and I'm
 just over thinking the matching ability?

 Appreciated gentlemen.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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[Elecraft] Question for K3 Designers or LCD experts...

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
Is the custom segmented display on the K3 a TN fluid?

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] Receiving 4th Harmonic of AM Station

2010-07-23 Thread Brett Howard
Very nice!!  Fun test... You're nuts!  But hey so am I.  I take it you
have the 250Hz 8-pole filter in your radio in order for that to happen?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-23 at 23:34 +, Rick Stealey wrote:
 
 So now we know it wasn't caused by overload.  But since I went to the trouble 
 of hauling my signal generator up to the shack and connecting it to my K3 I 
 figured you guys might like to know how your K3 will stand up to a big signal 
 on the broadcast band.  Let's not be so quick to assume this fantastic 
 receiver can be overloaded to the point where it generates 20 over 9 signals 
 on 160 and 80 meters !!!
 
 The 8640B is connected to the K3 through a coupler, and the antenna is 
 connected to the other port.  The generator is tuned to 940 KHz and the K3 is 
 tuned to 1880 and 3760.
 The generator is cranked up till the K3 hears a signal at about S5 on 1880, a 
 little over my local static level.  The generator is putting out -40 dbm.  S5 
 is about a -100 dbm signal.  
 Most likely the S5 signal is the 2nd harmonic of the signal generator, 60 db 
 down, not caused by the K3, because guess why?  Because putting the 
 attenuator on doesn't kill the signal like it would if it was internally 
 generated.  Your K3 isn't going to be bothered by killer AM broadcast band 
 signals, at least not to the point where it generates 20 over 9 spurs, fear 
 not !!
 
 Just for kicks (I've always wanted to do this) I tuned in some EU stations 
 around 7008.
 Then set the generator to -20 dbm.  Now let me tell you , -20 dbm is one, 
 friggin, HUGE signal. And tuned it down the band until its effect was 
 noticible on the weak signals.  Want to guess how close I could get?  7008.3 
 !!   300 cycles away from weak Europeans, with a 60 db over 9 interfering 
 signal
 
 Rick  K2XT
 
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