Re: 85mm vs 77mm, and 43mm

2001-12-19 Thread Norman Baugher

Ditto. For me sometimes, just snapping the shutter is primary (comes with
being a crappy photographer). The goal is usually to always get the image
that I'm looking for, however, just burning film, going through the whole
contemplative process, working with equipment that feels right, is a joy in
itself...
Norm

Paul Stenquist wrote:

 You won't need any body armor for my reply. I agree to a great extent
 and am sometimes annoyed by the elitist hairsplitting that most photo
 discussion groups encounter. On the other hand, most of us aren't
 involved in photography to do the damn job. We're having fun, playing
 with our toys. If one lens gives us a greater sense of pleasure, whether
 it be tactile, visual, or something else, then it serves our needs. Let
 someone else do the damn job. I'm here to have fun.
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Re: New (used) 6x7 arrives

2001-12-19 Thread Paul Stenquist

Thanks Dave. Everything works fine. I didn't realize the film counter
had to be in an active position, but Rob straightened me out. Now I'm
lens shopping.
Paul

David A. Mann wrote:
 
 Paul Stenquist wrote:
 
  I haven't been
  able to try the shutter or the MLU. Can someone explain how the MLU
  functions? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
  You push the MLU switch upwards.  The mirror goes *thunk*.  You wait as
 long as you need to, and press the shutter release.  The mirror returns
 automatically after the shutter closes.
 
  There is no way to deactivate the MLU other than releasing the shutter... so if
 you accidentally trigger it, you either waste a frame of film or your battery
 eventually dies.
 
 Cheers,
 
 - Dave
 
 David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
 http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
 
 Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
  while children are allowed to run free on the streets? -- Garfield
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Re: K1000 and KX

2001-12-19 Thread Lon Williamson

Peter Lacus wrote:
 
 Hello Lon,
 
 Lon Williamson wrote:
 
  So, if you're roughly centered, you're probably well within
  +/- 1/3 stop of the ideal exposure.
 
 PMJI but what's your definition of 'ideal exposure'? Doesn't it depend
 on intentions of the photog?

I was using ideal here in the sense of what the meter thinks is
middle toned.  Because the KM has an averaging meter, I often use
substitute metering, but once I've done so, I find the meter accurate
in decent light.

-Lon
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Re: 50mm 1.2 (compilation)

2001-12-19 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

I can't believe the distortion in those last two shots!  Hang the resolution.  Give me 
a natural appearance any day of the week.

Collin

--Original Message--
and most specifically: 

http://www.shinozuka-family.com/200110autumnlux2/kittyleaves4.jpg 
http://www.shinozuka-family.com/200110autumnlux2/tedkitleaves2.jpg 
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Re: Got a free A50/1.4

2001-12-19 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Congrats.
Maybe now people will hate someone besides me. :)

Collin
-
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:11:53 -0800 (PST) 
From: Juan J. Buhler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Subject: Got a free A50/1.4 

Another bargain: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1311704013 
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Steven Larson

My main point is that focusing is easier at 1.2 than what I`m used to with
the 1.4 in low light.
 I too have many, many, many tales of woe with the 50 1.4 @ 1.4 and not
getting
all the subjects (people) in focus.  One person is great, two people is
time for flash and stop down, if the subjects are in the near focus range,
or not in the
same plane of focus, unless you like 3200 ASA and extra large grain
and can afford to stop down (without flash).  My brains are tired now :)
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: 50mm 1.2


  I used up three rolls last night with the LX and 50 1.2 at Las Posadas
  in a restaurant last night at Olvera Street, I think the percentage of
  low light shots in focus has gone way up. The 1.2 is a dream to
  focus, the SE-60 focus screen doesn`t hurt either, what a combo!

 Yes, a dream to focus with in low light.  However, that razor-thin
 depth of field that helps so much in focusing can also come back to
 haunt you:

 While some photos will be simply great at f/1.2, others (where you
 might want a number of differently spaced subjects to all be in
 focus) can become impossible.  Ordinarily, you can just stop down a
 few notches, but in dim light this may result in shutter speeds that
 are dangerously long.

 Also, focusing in dim light (with that paper-thin DOF) on a moving
 subject (not moving perpendicular to you, but moving closer or
 further away from you) can be a real challenge - the subject, even
 if moving fairly slowly, will constantly be moving out of the plane
 of focus all too rapidly.

 As a guest at a wedding in a church one time, I tried using a 50/1.2
 wide open to take a few sepia photos (400 CN) of the wedding
 participants as they came down the aisle past me. (I had hoped to be
 able to stop down somewhat, to get a larger DOF, but the church was
 dimmer than I expected - g.)  At f/1.2, focusing on the (even
 slowly) moving subjects was a pain in the, er, aperture, and it was
 impossible, say, to get both the bride and her father (at slightly
 different planes) in focus at the same time.

 I don't relate this sad tale of woe in order to contradict Steve,
 but only to point out that just having a fast lens may not be all
 that is needed - g.  (Brains may help, too, I guess - g.)

 Fred
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Limited lenses and black MZ-S

2001-12-19 Thread MacBurt

In a message dated 12/19/01 7:23:20 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

 I've got the 43mm, and when mounted on the MZ-S it puts me in mind of a 
tin 
of shoe polish. I find it most incongruous.
Doesn't stop me using it though!
I like the focal length of the 40mm so much, when I decided to get an AF 
camera this is the lens I had to choose.
I have no intentions on getting the 77mm as I don't use the 85(s) I have, 
which is rather a shame. (can't bring myself to sell them though)
Wendy 

The silver lenses on black body drove me nuts. So I ordered, from a friend in 
Japan, a silver MZ-S. Yes, I paid thru the nose!! I tried the limited lenses 
on a ZX-5n. Looks great; performs great. But I can't accept expensive lenses 
on a low priced body. Don't get me wrong, I adore my 2 ZX-5ns, but... I have 
all three limited. The 43 - great travel lens and worth every cent. The 77 - 
sharp as a tack. The 31, yes the 31 - in a class by itself. A jewel of a wide 
angle. The perfect lens when you want to use a top prime and go wider. I'd 
like to see an 18mm and a 135mm in this series. They are worth it. The 77 is 
so sharp that handheld, wide open, indoors under normal room lighting, using 
400 ISO slide film, it delivered shots so sharp the peach fuzz was too 
obvious on a certain young lady. The 43mm gave me shots of David (Florence) 
that bounce off the paper (ISO 800, wide open). Now the 31 - challlenges the 
43 for that travel position. But, they complement each other not eliminate. 
Pardon the comparison, but using these lenses gets me better results than the 
Contax G2 CZ series. Where primes can be used, the limited lenses are in a 
class with Leitz, Carl Zeiss and the old top Nikkors. As for body color, 
that's pure vanity on my part. Self indulgence, but there is one thing worth 
mentioning. This is the first system (Pentax) that totally satisfies me. I 
don't even yearn for any of the Big Three. Nor have I returned a piece of 
equipment. It took me over 45 years to find a system I want, love and like.
Burt
NYC
USA
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Steven Larson

Hi Arnold, I didn`t know there was two variants of the K 50 1.2. Now there`s
3 different 50 1.2`s. I have the early one with the /, even if it is the
weakest
link in the line up, I wouldn`t trade my sample, I love it.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: Arnold Stark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: 50mm 1.2


Hi,

whether one prefers K, M or A lenses obviously is a matter of taste. Like
others, I also have grown to appreciate original K lenses most, especially
for their build quality. Of course the A50/f1.2, which I had for a short
time before I sold it via Ebay, is a wonderfully built lens, yet I prefer
the K50/f1.2 which for me just feels more solid, more robust, and less
delicate. I prefer the feeling of focusing it, and I have less fear of
damaging it. Well, maybe that is all due to the fact, that the K lens has
been used while the A lens was like new

BTW: Has it been mentioned already that there actually are two versions of
the K50/f1.2? The first one is the SMC Pentax 1:1.2/50, while the second
one is the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm. I own the latter one, and I believe that
it has better coatings than the first one.

Arnold


Pål Jensen schrieb:

 The A 50/1.2 is the most exquisitly finished Pentax lens of the 70-80's
and its built quality is unmatched
  from any manufacturers; a Leica 50mm looks cheap in comparison. I've
taken an A 50/1.2 apart and theres not a single piece of plastic on it.
Lenses simply doesn't come better built than this. The optical quality is
another issue though. Anyway, some may prefer the K series cosmetics. I
don't. Whats more, eg. the K 50/1.4 and the M 50/1.4 looks like cheap toys
compared to the A 50/1.2.
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

You have more than one?

Steven Larson wrote:

 My brains are tired now :)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Arnold ...

What leads you to believe that the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm is the
second or later version, and that it has better coatings than the
other lens, which you feel is an earlier version?  How can you tell
which was produced first and that there is really any difference between
them other than the way they're labeled?

Arnold Stark wrote:

 BTW: Has it been mentioned already that there 
 actually are two versions of the K50/f1.2? The 
 first one is the SMC Pentax 1:1.2/50, while 
 the second one is the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm. 
 I own the latter one, and I believe that it has 
 better coatings than the first one.

--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: why do tele-lenses have ED glass

2001-12-19 Thread Fred

 does anyone know why tele-lenses have ED glass, and why wide
 angles do not?

First:  As I understand it, low dispersion glass can be used to help
prevent color fringing (sometimes visible as a red or purple edge on
a viewed object).  Since the different wavelengths (colors) of light
are refracted by ordinary glass at different angles, glass designed
to prevent this dispersion of light rays is cleverly called LD
(for Low Dispersion) glass or (if the marketing department has its
way - g) ED (for Extra low Dispersion) glass.

Then:  Lenses with longer focal lengths are the ones that tend to
disperse the red and purple ends of the spectrum the most, if not
corrected (or minimized, actually).  The weak point in my little
explanation here is that I do not know why this is more of a problem
for longer focal lengths than shorter.  (Sorry.)  I guess a little
knowledge is a dangerous thing...

So, my quick and dirty answer to your question, Frank, is that
telephotos naturally produce more color fringing than wide-angles,
so that they benefit more from the use of LD or ED glass, designed
to minimize fringing.  Just don't ask me to explain why it is the
long lenses that produce the most color fringing - g.

Fred
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RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Ryan Charron

Hello to All,

My brother has been in electronics for over 25 years
and he told me there is No Way that a rechargable
could damage a camera motor. Rechargables always have
a little less voltage than the regular batteries they
replace. (1.25 volts to 1.5 volts for instance) 
To settle the issue, I have been using rechargables in
my AA holder on my ZX5n and have had No Problems.

A Rechargable Fan,
Ryan



Somebody wrote:

 mentioned that the hardness (high current output
under big
drain) of
 NiCd or big NiMH might damage the motor or
something, is this
really
 true? Although I don't have this camera, I have made
batterypacks for
 almost everything photo-electric I have (mostly
using old
notebook
 batteries, a friend tested them and selected the
best for me,
 suprising how they hold), so it's a
curiosity-question.

 Good light,
  Frantisek
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RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

I think from memory they sold VCRs under the Kyocera name before they did
35mm cameras but I could be confused on the timing.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Raimo Korhonen
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 12:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Vs: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Video? Kyocera is short version of Kyoto Ceramics - then they bought the
bankrupt Yashica. But you are right, nobody is complaining.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 18. joulukuuta 2001 15:29
Aihe: RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Same thing Kyocera did when they resurrected Contax. I don't notice too
many
people complaining about them being primarily a video company till then.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Vs: Voigtlander lens


On Monday, December 17, 2001, at 04:55  PM, Raimo Korhonen wrote:

 Correct - but I have two Voigtländer/Cosina LTM lenses - 4.5/15 mm and
 1.7/35 mm - and the quality is impressive. Cosina also made the Ricoh
 KR-5 and it has a good reputation as a simple but reliable camera.

Certainly.  I didn't mean to imply that they weren't manufacturing good
stuff under the Voightlander name, just that they had not so great a
reputation as Cosina, so they bought the Voightlander name to give
themselves some credibility for their higher-end products.

-Aaron
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Steven Larson

Yes, but it is a male thing.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message - 
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 5:18 AM
Subject: Re: 50mm 1.2


 You have more than one?
 
 Steven Larson wrote:
 
  My brains are tired now :)
 
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Needing a AF500FTZ

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

I have one you can have for $250 plus shipping. I have everything including
the original box. Contact me privately on this. I love the flash but I'm
phasing out all of my Pentax AF stuff right now.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Nick Wright
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 7:43 PM
To: PDML
Subject: Needing a AF500FTZ


Hi all,
I've decided that I need to get the AF500FTZ flash... Does anyone have one
that they can let go? Thanks!!!

Nick
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Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Malcolm Smith

Just a quick note to thank everyone for all the advice about getting (cost,
shipping etc.) an LX both on and off list.

I am into my second hour of ownership now, the film is loaded, so I'm off to
see how different it is from the MX.

Cotty, you can rest easy!

Malcolm;-)
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RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens

2001-12-19 Thread Mark Roberts

Kyocera also had an entire line of audio components; receivers, amplifiers,
cassette decks, CD players. They always tried to find a way to work ceramics
into the design if at all possible: Their CD players moved the laser pick-up
assembly along ceramic rails rather than steel ones, for example. Their
cassette tape transports were excellent and were used on an OEM basis by
many other stereo equipment manufacturers. Nakamichi used Kyocera tape transports
in a lot of their tape decks. I believe they still OEM for stereo manufacturers
but don't sell under their own name any more.

I think from memory they sold VCRs under the Kyocera name before they did
35mm cameras but I could be confused on the timing.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Raimo Korhonen
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 12:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Vs: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Video? Kyocera is short version of Kyoto Ceramics - then they bought the
bankrupt Yashica. But you are right, nobody is complaining.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 18. joulukuuta 2001 15:29
Aihe: RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Same thing Kyocera did when they resurrected Contax. I don't notice too
many
people complaining about them being primarily a video company till then.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Vs: Voigtlander lens


On Monday, December 17, 2001, at 04:55  PM, Raimo Korhonen wrote:

 Correct - but I have two Voigtländer/Cosina LTM lenses - 4.5/15 mm and
 1.7/35 mm - and the quality is impressive. Cosina also made the Ricoh
 KR-5 and it has a good reputation as a simple but reliable camera.

Certainly.  I didn't mean to imply that they weren't manufacturing good
stuff under the Voightlander name, just that they had not so great a
reputation as Cosina, so they bought the Voightlander name to give
themselves some credibility for their higher-end products.

-Aaron
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-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Alexander Krohe

Daphne wrote:-
i've been meaning to ask about that. half my K
lenses dont have the 'mm'at the end :
my SMC -K 24/3.5, 35/2, 50/1.4, and 85/1.8 dont have
'mm' written. 
my SMC-K 17/4, 18/3.5, 50/1.2 and 135/2.5 have an 'mm'
engraved. does that mean thateach of those is first
version, and there's second-version siblings around?
Daphne
---

Hi, 
I think K-series lenses without 'mm' at the end were
manufactured between 1975 and 1977/78. Those with 'mm'
engraved were manufactured from around 1978 onward,
contemporaneously to the M-series lenses. Such later
versions seem to exist only for K-lenses that do not
have an ´M'-equivalent.  
From what I have seen these second versions have
constantly higher serial numbers.  
Enjoy,
Alexander
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Re: why do tele-lenses have ED glass

2001-12-19 Thread Steven Larson

  Fred wrote:
[snip]
Just don't ask me to explain why it is the
 long lenses that produce the most color fringing - g.
 
 Fred

 I think chromatic aberrations are harder to correct than spherical
abberations.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California 
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50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Having been in this field longer than your brother I think you may have not
posed the correct question. We aren't taking about voltage but the amount of
current a given battery technology can sink across a give load value. A
circuit has the same amount of current flow as long as the ohm value of the
load and the voltage of the source remain constant. However in a camera the
load seen is high (low current) when only the metering is operating. When
the motordrive kicks in the power source has to be able to increase it's
current flow to power the startup torque and running of the motor. The only
way to do this is to suddenly have the battery see a lower load (fewer ohms
of resistance). Various battery technologies have different peak current
supply capabilities. If the camera maker wants to use this as part of the
protection circuitry of the camera they will specify a limited battery type
for the camera. Using rechargeables is only a problem in the voltage area if
the electronics need to run close to the voltage produced by x number of
alkalines or other specified types. If the camera has power regulation down
to a something like 4 volts from 4 AA alkalines then 4 NiCads at 4.8 will
work.
On the otherhand if the camera maker says not to use NiMH or Lithium-Ion
batteries it generally means that prolonged use of higher current capable
battery technologies will eventually burn out some of the electronics
because they were using the source current limit as part of the design
process. Especially if the manual says something like use of battery types
not specified can void the warranty.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ryan Charron
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 8:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p


Hello to All,

My brother has been in electronics for over 25 years
and he told me there is No Way that a rechargable
could damage a camera motor. Rechargables always have
a little less voltage than the regular batteries they
replace. (1.25 volts to 1.5 volts for instance)
To settle the issue, I have been using rechargables in
my AA holder on my ZX5n and have had No Problems.

A Rechargable Fan,
Ryan



Somebody wrote:

 mentioned that the hardness (high current output
under big
drain) of
 NiCd or big NiMH might damage the motor or
something, is this
really
 true? Although I don't have this camera, I have made
batterypacks for
 almost everything photo-electric I have (mostly
using old
notebook
 batteries, a friend tested them and selected the
best for me,
 suprising how they hold), so it's a
curiosity-question.

 Good light,
  Frantisek
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Arnold Stark

Hi Shel,

I believe that the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm is the later version of the
K50/f1.2 because the mm in the name of K series lenses exists only for K
series lenses that were still made while the M series lenses were already
there. As I understand it, my SMC Pentax 1:1.8/85, my SMC Pentax
1:3.5/135 and my SMC Pentax 1:5.6/400 were produced before Pentax
introduced the SMC Pentax-M 1:2 85mm, the SMC Pentax-M 1:3.5 135mm and
the SMC Pentax-M 1:5.6 400mm. Most of the other K series lenses that I
own, e.g. the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm or the SMC Pentax 1:2.5 135mm, have
the mm in the name. They are lenses which were not replaced by M lenses.
Probably most such K series lenses exist in two versions, one with the /,
one with mm.

Whether the coatings of the different versions differ much I am not sure,
but the coating of my SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm surely looks different from
the coatings of the SMC Pentax 1:1.8/85 and of the  SMC Pentax
1:3.5/135.

Arnold


 What leads you to believe that the SMC Pentax 1:1.2 50mm is the second
 or later version, and that it has better coatings than the other lens,
 which you feel is an earlier version?  How can you tell which was produced
 first and that there is really any difference between them other than the
 way they're labeled?
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RE: why do tele-lenses have ED glass

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

It's not just longer lenses but faster ones with bigger front elements. The
acceptable F-ratio for controlling dispersion without ED type glass goes up
(slower) the larger the front element regardless of the F-ratio. In simple
achromatic systems the acceptable F-ratio is 3 at F/15. But if the front
element goes up to 4 the ratio has to be F/20 or slower, while for 5 it
goes to F/27 or so.
So the focus dispersion problem is significantly higher for a 600/4 lens
than a 600/5.6 or a 600/8 lens because the front element is around 6
instead of 4 or 3. The steeper the light path the worse the problem
(faster the F-ratio).
Kent Gittings
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Fred
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 8:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: why do tele-lenses have ED glass


 does anyone know why tele-lenses have ED glass, and why wide
 angles do not?

First:  As I understand it, low dispersion glass can be used to help
prevent color fringing (sometimes visible as a red or purple edge on
a viewed object).  Since the different wavelengths (colors) of light
are refracted by ordinary glass at different angles, glass designed
to prevent this dispersion of light rays is cleverly called LD
(for Low Dispersion) glass or (if the marketing department has its
way - g) ED (for Extra low Dispersion) glass.

Then:  Lenses with longer focal lengths are the ones that tend to
disperse the red and purple ends of the spectrum the most, if not
corrected (or minimized, actually).  The weak point in my little
explanation here is that I do not know why this is more of a problem
for longer focal lengths than shorter.  (Sorry.)  I guess a little
knowledge is a dangerous thing...

So, my quick and dirty answer to your question, Frank, is that
telephotos naturally produce more color fringing than wide-angles,
so that they benefit more from the use of LD or ED glass, designed
to minimize fringing.  Just don't ask me to explain why it is the
long lenses that produce the most color fringing - g.

Fred
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Re: 50mm 1.2 (compilation)

2001-12-19 Thread Dan Scott

I'm curious as to how natural that line or plane of focus looks to all of
y'alls more experienced eyes? It seems pretty crescent or horn shaped and
I'm having trouble visualizing what causes it. And is it possible we're
just looking at photoshop enhancement done very badly?

Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


I can't believe the distortion in those last two shots!  Hang the
resolution.  Give me a natural appearance any day of the week.

Collin
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Our delivery, part2

2001-12-19 Thread Camdir

The delivery actually arrived today, around 30 mins ago.

It will take an hour to check in, uninterrupted. All the Pentax parts will go 
out tomorrow. Including an 85mm F1.4A*, for some lucky fellow.

Kind regards

Peter
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RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Brendan

When I was doing those Nimh tsts I also mesured the
amperage of the cells, the best alkaline battery testd
at 1.6V 40~50 ma, a 1600 mah nimh battery was 1.3v
130-140 ma, now remember your puttting 4 of these in a
fg battery pack, so 4 regular or rechargable alkalines
will provide 160-200 ma to the camera, now 4 nimh or
nicads are powering 560 ma to the camera, if they
built it to be powered by a higher voltage lower
amperage source and you double/triple the apmerage it
is only a matter of time before you burn something in
it. No rechargables in my MZ-3, the flashes can use
them all they want, since I change the AA's in the
MZ-3 every 3 months but the flahses nightly

--- Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Having been in this field longer than your brother I
 think you may have not
 posed the correct question. We aren't taking about
 voltage but the amount of
 current a given battery technology can sink across a
 give load value. A
 circuit has the same amount of current flow as long
 as the ohm value of the
 load and the voltage of the source remain constant.
 However in a camera the
 load seen is high (low current) when only the
 metering is operating. When
 the motordrive kicks in the power source has to be
 able to increase it's
 current flow to power the startup torque and running
 of the motor. The only
 way to do this is to suddenly have the battery see a
 lower load (fewer ohms
 of resistance). Various battery technologies have
 different peak current
 supply capabilities. If the camera maker wants to
 use this as part of the
 protection circuitry of the camera they will specify
 a limited battery type
 for the camera. Using rechargeables is only a
 problem in the voltage area if
 the electronics need to run close to the voltage
 produced by x number of
 alkalines or other specified types. If the camera
 has power regulation down
 to a something like 4 volts from 4 AA alkalines then
 4 NiCads at 4.8 will
 work.
 On the otherhand if the camera maker says not to use
 NiMH or Lithium-Ion
 batteries it generally means that prolonged use of
 higher current capable
 battery technologies will eventually burn out some
 of the electronics
 because they were using the source current limit as
 part of the design
 process. Especially if the manual says something
 like use of battery types
 not specified can void the warranty.
 Kent Gittings
 

__ 
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Fred

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let
 me know if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!

My K 50/1.2 lacks the mm after the 1:1.2/50, and it has the SN
of 12038nn.

I just took a look at some of my K2 literature, and the 50/1.2 that
is shown on the front covers and on the inside photos of both the
large K2/KX/KM brochure and the large Asahi Pentax K2 brochure that
I have lacks the mm and has the SN of 1734686.

The K2 that I saw in a dream back in 1975 had a K 50/1.2 mounted to
it, but I didn't notice if it had the mm or not, and the SN was a
bit fuzzy...

Fred
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Re: Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Rfsindg

 Malcolm;-)

And Cotty, after only 2 hours of ownership, Malcolm has the wink.

Regards,  Bob S.  ;-)
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OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Chris Niesmertelny

I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements, and
need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the PrimeFilm
and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I should
be considering?

Much thanks to anyone responding.

Best regards,
Chris
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Fred

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
 if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!

You know, Shel, what we really need is for Gerjan (or somebody) to
put out a K-mount book with at least the same amount of detail as he
put into his Ultimate Asahi Pentax Screw Mount Guide.  It would
provide all kinds of fodder for us equipment junkies to mull over,
and it would also be just enough to make a working photographer
puke, as well.  In short, it would get the damned job done...

;-)

(I'm sorry if my LX wink is not very good - I'm only an amateur.)

Fred
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Re: Our delivery, part2

2001-12-19 Thread Bmacrae

Good news Peter!

Can't wait to try out the new LX screens...

By the way, not to make anyone jealous, but the 85mm is for me!

This will be a happy xmas it turns out!

Brendan MacRae
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Shel Belinkoff

LOL

Actually, I was thinking along those lines last night while reading
Cecchi's book.

The thing about getting the damned job done is that, with a full
understanding of the equipment, especially lenses and their various
iterations and differences, you're able to get the job done with more
precision and with better ability to see your vision in the final
result.  What an annoyance it might be to expect a nice, smooth bokeh
and get some nauseating background instead, or only after an assignment
discovering that the colors of your photos don't match well because you
used lenses that gave slightly different color castes.

Knowing your equipment is one requisite for getting the job done well.

;-) ;-) ;-) (-; (-; (-; [practicing winking with both eyes]

Fred wrote:

 You know, Shel, what we really need is for Gerjan (or somebody) to
 put out a K-mount book with at least the same amount of detail as he
 put into his Ultimate Asahi Pentax Screw Mount Guide.  It would
 provide all kinds of fodder for us equipment junkies to mull over,
 and it would also be just enough to make a working photographer
 puke, as well.  In short, it would get the damned job done...
 
 ;-)
 
 (I'm sorry if my LX wink is not very good - I'm only an amateur.)
 

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Tim Engel

19 Dec 01, Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
 if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!   ---   Shel Belinkoff


Shel,

I have two K50  1.2's
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1467330  and
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1444624.

Neither has the  /.
Both have the  mm.

The recent threads concerning with-n-without  /mm  is the first
I've heard that two versions existed,  so I'm hardly the authority to
confirm that mine are early or late models.   But I'm assuming from this new
info that they are both examples of the later model.

Regards,
Tim Engel
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Delano Mireles

Hi Chris,

I've used Elements with the PrimeFilm Scanner and it works just fine.  I do
have to be honest and say that I haven't used Elements too much since I do
have Photoshop but tried it out of curiosity and acquiring was just as
smooth as Photoshop.  I believe there is currently a rebate promo going on
right now where you can get $30 back on the purchase making it come out to
$69.

Adobe has a 30 demo you can download:

http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopel/demoreg.html

Good luck!

Delano

on 12/19/01 10:00 AM, Chris Niesmertelny at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
 PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements, and
 need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the PrimeFilm
 and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I should
 be considering?
 
 Much thanks to anyone responding.
 
 Best regards,
 Chris
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Alexander Krohe

Arnold wrote:
...
Whether the coatings of the different versions differ
much I am not sure, but the coating of my SMC Pentax
1:1.2 50mm surely looks different from the coatings
of the SMC Pentax 1:1.8/85 and of the  SMC Pentax
1:3.5/135.
Arnold
--

I think also lenses of the same generations may have
individual coatings. I have an old style SMC Pentax
1:2.8 30 (serial number starts with 53) that has
blue-ish turquoise looking coatings. It is very
different from the coatings of the (old style K-)SMC
Pentax 1:1.4/50 (which I sold). 

BTW the A lenses (and FA lenses) have a different (and
in my view superior) color rendition compared to K and
M lenses, particularly the blue tones. This is
probably due to changes in their coatings. I made some
side by side shots with the (new style) K-SMC Pentax
1:3.5 18mm (serial number starts with 55) and the
FA24mm/2 lens; the differences (in slides) are quite
obvious, particularly regading blue tones (though the
18mm has a non-removable 1A filter, but both lenses
tend to warmer color tones ... ). 
IMO the blue tones tend to be grey-ish on slides
taken with K- (and M-)lenses (an exception is the 30mm
lens). I decided for the A-version of the 1.2/50mm
because of this.
Enjoy,
Alexander 
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RE: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

The / was a carryover from the Takumar days.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tim Engel
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 11:47 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations


19 Dec 01, Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
 if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!   ---   Shel Belinkoff


Shel,

I have two K50  1.2's
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1467330  and
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1444624.

Neither has the  /.
Both have the  mm.

The recent threads concerning with-n-without  /mm  is the first
I've heard that two versions existed,  so I'm hardly the authority to
confirm that mine are early or late models.   But I'm assuming from this new
info that they are both examples of the later model.

Regards,
Tim Engel
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bye for now

2001-12-19 Thread Mick Maguire

Happy holidays all, I'm unsubscribing for my trip back to England.

Regards,
/\/\ick... 
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Alexander Krohe

Shel wrote:
and Alexander Krohe wrote:

From what I have seen these second versions have
constantly higher serial numbers

Actually I was not referring to the serial numbers of
the K-series 50 mm lenses (which are different from
the serial numbers other K-lenses). I was referring to
the serial numbers of the other lenses except the 50mm
lenses g. 

I may be wrong but, the old style K-series lenses
without 'mm' seem to have mostly serial number
starting with 51-53 (54?), while the serial number of
the new style lenses appear to start with 55 or
higher. 
This is not true for the K- 50 mm lenses which all
have serial numbers starting with 1.
Alexander
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Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Maris V. Lidaka, Sr.

How much do you want to spend and how sophisticated are you (or do you want to be)?

For about $100 or less PhotoShop Elements is good and fairly easy to learn and use, 
but is limited in that you cannot work in CMYK or LAB color spaces.  For the same 
price range Corel PhotoPaint (an older version - most likely 9) will do most/much of 
what PhotoShop 6 will do, and Paint Shop Pro is another competitor but the learning 
curve is steeper.

Maris

- Original Message - 
From: Chris Niesmertelny [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements 


| I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
| PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements, and
| need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the PrimeFilm
| and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I should
| be considering?
| 
| Much thanks to anyone responding.
| 
| Best regards,
| Chris
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| go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Otis Wright, Jr.

No Way may be correct. However, the relative voltages my not be the
issue here.  Of more interest at high duty cycles/loads or in case of
component failure maybe short circuit current capability, which
relates to the internal resistance of the different types of battery
cells under high load conditions.

Any one know out there happen to have info on the relative short
circuit characteristics of  NiCd, NiMH, Alkaline, Lithium etc. cells?
Cold there be circumstances where one or more of these sources delivers
more current than some older designs provided for?

Otis Wright

Ryan Charron wrote:

 Hello to All,

 My brother has been in electronics for over 25 years
 and he told me there is No Way that a rechargable
 could damage a camera motor. Rechargables always have
 a little less voltage than the regular batteries they
 replace. (1.25 volts to 1.5 volts for instance)
 To settle the issue, I have been using rechargables in
 my AA holder on my ZX5n and have had No Problems.

 A Rechargable Fan,
 Ryan

 Somebody wrote:

  mentioned that the hardness (high current output
 under big
 drain) of
  NiCd or big NiMH might damage the motor or
 something, is this
 really
  true? Although I don't have this camera, I have made
 batterypacks for
  almost everything photo-electric I have (mostly
 using old
 notebook
  batteries, a friend tested them and selected the
 best for me,
  suprising how they hold), so it's a
 curiosity-question.
 
  Good light,
   Frantisek
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Re: Got a free A50/1.4

2001-12-19 Thread Ken Archer

I hate you both ;-)

On Wednesday 19 December 2001 06:39, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
 Congrats.
 Maybe now people will hate someone besides me. :)

 Collin
 -
 Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:11:53 -0800 (PST)
 From: Juan J. Buhler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Got a free A50/1.4

 Another bargain:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1311704013
-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
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Re: 50mm 1.2

2001-12-19 Thread tom

Alexander Krohe wrote:

 
 BTW the A lenses (and FA lenses) have a different (and
 in my view superior) color rendition compared to K and
 M lenses, particularly the blue tones. 

I agree.

tv
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Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Chris Niesmertelny

Maris, good questions.
I'm still a newbie WRT scanning and digital imaging.  I'll want to be as
sophisticated as I have time for, which currently is not much, but as far as
cost is concerned, I'll pay what something is worth but not for
bells/whistles and capabilities I'll never use.  Reviews I've read of
Photoshop Elements leads me to believe it may be the right fit for me,
easy to understand and use, capable with some study.  Most programs seem to
be on one side of the bell curve or the other, either exceedingly simplistic
or incredibly complex.  But the problem is, until I sit down and really
start working at it, I don't have any idea what I need (I just know it ain't
currently what I've got!  If I have to restart this computer ONE MORE TIME
because of the stupid software...!)

Chris




How much do you want to spend and how sophisticated are you (or do you want
to be)?
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Mark Erickson

Chris,

I use the latest version of Paint Shop Pro for my digital darkroom work.  
It is a very full-featured program.  Steve's Digicams says that it is ...a 
close second to PhotoShop [the full version, not elements] in power and 
popularity as a photo editing tool with plugin support.  Here is a link to 
Steve's page on editors: 

  http://www.steves-digicams.com/digsoftware.html#editors 

One area where Paint Shop Pro lags Photoshop is in professional-grade 
workflow color management.  I'm almost certain that the color management in 
Photoshop Elements is also lacking in this area, though.  Can anyone else 
confirm or deny this? 

 --Mark
 -Chris Wrote-- 

I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements, and
need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the PrimeFilm
and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I should
be considering? 

Much thanks to anyone responding. 

Best regards,
Chris 
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Chris Niesmertelny

Thanks, Delano!

I did see that demo and started to download it before my computer CRASHED
AGAIN.  I'll have to check it out later.

Chris




Adobe has a 30 demo you can download:

http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopel/demoreg.html
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Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Maris V. Lidaka, Sr.

Download the Photoshop Elements trial and try it out.  Then (or now if you want) get 
the CorelDRAW 9 Graphics Suite which includes Corel PhotoPaint 9 for $43.00  
http://www.directdeals.com/product.asp?id=461 - it will give you an excellent idea of 
what the full PS6 will do but it's not as sophisticated.

I started with PhotoPaint before Elements was out and then tried out Elements later 
and for my workflow I preferred PhotoPaint because I could work in CMYK - I read Dan 
Margulis's Professional Photoshop 5 and found I could adjust skin-tones much better in 
CMYK than I could in RGB, but Elements does have a feature called Variations where 
you can do a good job of adjusting brightness and color.

See which way of working works best for you.

Maris

- Original Message - 
From: Chris Niesmertelny [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements 


| Maris, good questions.
| I'm still a newbie WRT scanning and digital imaging.  I'll want to be as
| sophisticated as I have time for, which currently is not much, but as far as
| cost is concerned, I'll pay what something is worth but not for
| bells/whistles and capabilities I'll never use.  Reviews I've read of
| Photoshop Elements leads me to believe it may be the right fit for me,
| easy to understand and use, capable with some study.  Most programs seem to
| be on one side of the bell curve or the other, either exceedingly simplistic
| or incredibly complex.  But the problem is, until I sit down and really
| start working at it, I don't have any idea what I need (I just know it ain't
| currently what I've got!  If I have to restart this computer ONE MORE TIME
| because of the stupid software...!)
| 
| Chris
| 
| 
| 
| 
| How much do you want to spend and how sophisticated are you (or do you want
| to be)?
| -
| This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
| go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
| visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
| 
| 
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Snow-pictures

2001-12-19 Thread Peter Smekal

Snow even here today - in the middle of Sweden!!  It's a real snowstorm
outside. Hopefully there will be some good light tomorrow to do some
photography. I have to admit that I'm still a beginner. What is your
experience from taking pictures in all this whiteness. Is there anything
important to think about?
Thanks
Peter
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Ken Archer

Finally, Doug, I think you have come around to the conventional way 
of thinking ;-)

On Wednesday 19 December 2001 11:32, Doug Brewer wrote:
 So keep this in mind, you young photographers out
 there: unless you have five versions of every lens and
 can recite MTF data for every one of them, you suck as
 a photographer and should explore other hobbies.

 And don't even =think= photography is about photographs.

 Doug


 Ashwood Lake Photography
 http://www.alphoto.com
-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Chris,

You should also look at Paintshop Pro (www.jasc.com).  I have tried
just about everything, including elements and feel that for general
photo editing, it works very well.  It doesn't have quite the graphic
artist manipulation capabilities of Photoshop (full version), but is
only $100 versus $600 for Photoshop.  I believe you can get a trial of
both Elements and Paintshop Pro.  That is the best way - test for
yourself.  I did and found that Paintshop Pro fit my needs and usage
best.

Good luck,


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 8:00:08 AM, you wrote:

CN I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
CN PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements, and
CN need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the PrimeFilm
CN and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I should
CN be considering?

CN Much thanks to anyone responding.

CN Best regards,
CN Chris
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread tom

Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:
 
 Paint Shop Pro may have a demo-download available, too - I know they did in the past.
 

They do:

http://jasc.com/

I like PSP for the few things I do.

tv
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Re: Got a free A50/1.4

2001-12-19 Thread Juan J. Buhler

On Wed, 19 Dec 2001, Ken Archer wrote:

 I hate you both ;-)

It's just a matter of checking the newly started ebay auctions every
once in a while. I do so at most once a day, and so far I've gotten a
$50 K1000+50/2, a $50 K24/3.5, a $30 M28/3.5, and this $65 Program
Plus+A50/1.4.

But hate us, I'm sure Collin enjoys it as much as I do :-)

j


--
---
 Juan J. Buhler | Sr. FX Animator @ PDI | Photos at http://www.jbuhler.com
---
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Re: Snow-pictures

2001-12-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

If you are using slide film, open up one full stop from what your ttl meter
is showing (unless you spot meter a middle-toned subject...).  For print
film I'm not sure

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message -
From: Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:13 PM
Subject: Snow-pictures


 Snow even here today - in the middle of Sweden!!  It's a real snowstorm
 outside. Hopefully there will be some good light tomorrow to do some
 photography. I have to admit that I'm still a beginner. What is your
 experience from taking pictures in all this whiteness. Is there anything
 important to think about?
 Thanks
 Peter
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Re: Saturation in ISO 400 C-41?

2001-12-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Joe,

I would recommend you also consider Agfa Optima II 400 and Kodak Supra
400.  I believe both are finer grained than those you mentioned and
quite saturated.


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 9:43:07 AM, you wrote:

JT It was 13 degrees this morning, so my thoughts are turning to warmer
JT weather and the spring flower season. Here in New Mexico, spring is also
JT the windy season, so high shutter speeds make macro work much easier
JT while keeping some DOF. Last spring I shot Provia 400F with some nice
JT results. This coming spring I'd like to try a relatively fine-grained
JT ISO 400 color negative film.

JT My question is: which gives the highest color saturation? Agfa Vista 400
JT and Superia Extra 400 look like possible candidates. Has anyone compared
JT their color saturation? Are there other candidates I should consider?

JT Thanks,

JT Joe
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Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread aimcompute

I suspect the reason he prefers zooms is the nature of his shots.  When
you're dealing with a flock of birds or a frolicking bear, you don't
necessarily have the time to change lenses.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: harald_nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Met Art Wolfe


 Just happened to run into Art Wolfe, world renowned wildlife
 and outdoor photographer, this weekend in Seattle, Washington.
 If you don't know, this is his website:
 http://www.artwolfe.com/

 Started talking a bit about outdoor photography, so I asked him
 What's your favorite lense?
 He asks, What camera are you using?
 I say, Pentax.
 His eyes light up, Ah, Medium format. (one of his cameras is a Pentax
Med.
 Format).
 No, I say, 35mm.
 I was kind of surprised that his favorite lense right now for 35mm
 is the super wide angle zoom 17-35 mm. Next favorite 70-200mm zoom.
 In his opinion modern pro-grade zooms have advanced to such a
 degree that they are equal to primary lenses. He prefers them for
composing.
 His results obviously speak for themselves.
 Just thought to share it with you.
 Harald
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Re: 85mm vs 77mm, and 43mm

2001-12-19 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, December 18, 2001, at 08:25  PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

  On the other hand, most of us aren't
 involved in photography to do the damn job. We're having fun, playing
 with our toys. If one lens gives us a greater sense of pleasure, whether
 it be tactile, visual, or something else, then it serves our needs.

I agree.  I find the Pentax 67 and its lenses absolutely a joy to hold 
and operate, and as a result I enjoy making photographs even more.

-Aaron
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Re: 85mm vs 77mm, and 43mm

2001-12-19 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, December 18, 2001, at 08:38  PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

   What's wrong with using
 equipment that's satisfying on several levels?

The same thing that's wrong with driving an automobile or wearing a 
shirt with buttons, Shel.

-Aaron
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RE: Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Malcolm Smith

Cotty,

Mrs Malcolm is well aware of the implications of the LX wink, and is, in
this case anyway, responsible for Malcolm acquiring said habit.  Mrs Malcolm
supplied the LX as a slightly early Christmas present.

Felicity

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cotty
Sent: 19 December 2001 17:39
To: Pentax List
Subject: Re: Thank you (re: LX advice)


And Cotty, after only 2 hours of ownership, Malcolm has the wink.

In the interest of Health and Safety, I think Mrs. Malcolm should be told.

;-)

Cotty

___
Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Check out the UK Macintosh ads
http://www.macads.co.uk
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Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Maris V. Lidaka, Sr.

No - I'm suggesting the learning curve for PSP is steeper than for Photoshop Elements, 
though from my recollection not as steep as for PS6 (I only tried it out as a demo 
about a year ago).

Maris

- Original Message - 
From: dave o'brien [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 3:58 AM
Subject: Re: Adobe Photoshop Elements 


| On Wed, 19 Dec 2001, Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:
| 
|  color spaces.  For the same price range Corel PhotoPaint (an older
|  version - most likely 9) will do most/much of what PhotoShop 6 will
|  do, and Paint Shop Pro is another competitor but the learning curve is
|  steeper.
| 
| Surely you're not saying that the learning curve for PSP is steeper than 
| that for PS?  I find it easier for simple things, but there are things 
| which only PS will do.
| 
| dave
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RE: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Me too although I've never bought the upgrades to go above my current
version 5.03 as yet. I suppose the more digital work I dabble in the more I
might be inclined to upgrade to the latest version.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tom
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 4:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements


Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:

 Paint Shop Pro may have a demo-download available, too - I know they did
in the past.


They do:

http://jasc.com/

I like PSP for the few things I do.

tv
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Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

True, but in his book The Art of Photographing Nature (get it Art
hahaha) he describes how he likes new high-quality zooms because it gives
him the ability to crop and compose easily and quickly.  Not necessarily
because the subjects are moving.

Incidentally, I am extremely jealous.  Art Wolfe's book has helped my issues
with composition.  My exposures were perfect but my compositions sucked.
Art Wolfe (and John Shaw) taught me how to slow down, and see the whole
picture and take apart each element to improve my composition.

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message -
From: aimcompute [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 I suspect the reason he prefers zooms is the nature of his shots.  When
 you're dealing with a flock of birds or a frolicking bear, you don't
 necessarily have the time to change lenses.

 Tom C.

 - Original Message -
 From: harald_nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  Just happened to run into Art Wolfe, world renowned wildlife
  and outdoor photographer, this weekend in Seattle, Washington.
  If you don't know, this is his website:
  http://www.artwolfe.com/
 
  Started talking a bit about outdoor photography, so I asked him
  What's your favorite lense?
  He asks, What camera are you using?
  I say, Pentax.
  His eyes light up, Ah, Medium format. (one of his cameras is a Pentax
 Med.
  Format).
  No, I say, 35mm.
  I was kind of surprised that his favorite lense right now for 35mm
  is the super wide angle zoom 17-35 mm. Next favorite 70-200mm zoom.
  In his opinion modern pro-grade zooms have advanced to such a
  degree that they are equal to primary lenses. He prefers them for
 composing.
  His results obviously speak for themselves.
  Just thought to share it with you.
  Harald
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RE: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually I think what he is saying is what a lot of wildlife shooters say
about the difference between primes and current zooms is that the results
are indistinguishable between a fast 200 prime and a pro level 80-200 zoom
at 200mm. Not to say they don't have some differences but that they can't be
seen on the film they are shooting. I know in my case I can't tell the
difference between shots made with my old Pentax SMC 200/2.5 and my current
Sigma EX 70-200/2.8 at 200mm.
But remember these guys aren't talking about using zooms in place of
300-800mm primes but in place of 200mm and under ones. Except in the case of
digital when an 80-200/2.8 zoom would be used instead of a 300/2.8 prime due
to the multiplication factor.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:37 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Met Art Wolfe


I suspect the reason he prefers zooms is the nature of his shots.  When
you're dealing with a flock of birds or a frolicking bear, you don't
necessarily have the time to change lenses.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: harald_nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Met Art Wolfe


 Just happened to run into Art Wolfe, world renowned wildlife
 and outdoor photographer, this weekend in Seattle, Washington.
 If you don't know, this is his website:
 http://www.artwolfe.com/

 Started talking a bit about outdoor photography, so I asked him
 What's your favorite lense?
 He asks, What camera are you using?
 I say, Pentax.
 His eyes light up, Ah, Medium format. (one of his cameras is a Pentax
Med.
 Format).
 No, I say, 35mm.
 I was kind of surprised that his favorite lense right now for 35mm
 is the super wide angle zoom 17-35 mm. Next favorite 70-200mm zoom.
 In his opinion modern pro-grade zooms have advanced to such a
 degree that they are equal to primary lenses. He prefers them for
composing.
 His results obviously speak for themselves.
 Just thought to share it with you.
 Harald
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Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread Christian Skofteland

In the book I mentioned before Art gives a 200-400 N a real workout.  

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message - 
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 But remember these guys aren't talking about using zooms in place of
 300-800mm primes but in place of 200mm and under ones. 

 Kent Gittings
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RE: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread Malcolm Smith

 or a frolicking bear, you don't
necessarily have the time to change lenses.

Tom C.

Or underwear I presume. Sorry!

Malcolm
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Re[2]: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Fred

 unless you have five versions of every lens and  can recite MTF
 data for every one of them, [snip]

OK, Doug, but just don't get us started on Photodo MTF results
bashing - g.

Fred
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread James Kiker

Doug wrote:

 So keep this in mind, you young photographers out 
 there: unless you have five versions of every lens and 
 can recite MTF data for every one of them, you suck as 
 a photographer and should explore other hobbies. 

 And don't even =think= photography is about photographs.
 
To me it's not so black-and-white as this.  On one hand I agree with Doug
that the final image one produces should be the determining factor as to
whether or not your equipment is satisfactory, but on the other hand, I too
am a gear head, and can't help but be interested in and noticing the subtle
differences produced by variations of similar lenses.  I love owning finest
fastest lenses available; however, being recently converted from Olympus,
most of what I consider to be my best images were produced on slower
single-coated older prime zuiko lenses, such as the 35mm f/2.8.  Although I
owned faster, newer, more expensive glass, I almost always made my best
shots with this or similar lenses.  Surely there is middle ground, or some
gray area in this issue.  Can't I enjoy the equipment, and also separate
myself from a direct correlation of knowledge and ownership of equipment and
good photography?  Almost all my best medium format images have been made
with a finicky unimproved Kiev 60, but I'm dying to own the Rollei 6008i.
Would it improve my images?  Maybe.  Do I need it to get the job I'm doing
(fine family portraiture) done?  Definitely not.  My non-photographic family
are stunned with the quality of my shots, since they're used to
point-and-shoot snapshots, or unimaginative department store portraits.
Switching to the Rollei system would tickle my gearhead inner self, but
would most likely have little effect on the final product as relates to my
market.  This is different from person to person.  One side or the other
isn't the right answer.  It's an individual choice based on wants and needs.
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Re: Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread bhutto

Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 True, but in his book The Art of Photographing Nature 
(get it Art hahaha) he describes how he likes new 
 high-quality zooms because it gives him the ability to
 crop and compose easily and quickly.  

[snip]

 Art Wolfe's book has helped my issues with composition.  
 My exposures were perfect but my compositions sucked.

I just recently bought this book and it is very educational.
If you were to learn one thing from each set of pictures 
in that book and apply it to your own photography...well, 
you'd be a pretty darned good nature photographer when you
finished.

Brent Hutto
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Canon F1n vs. Pentax LX

2001-12-19 Thread Bmacrae

Hello all...

I am new to the list so I want to say hello to all of you and introduce myself.

My name is Brendan MacRae, 32 yrs, live in Northern California (bliss)...Pentax nut 
for many, many years. Owned K1000, P30t, Zx-5n, MX, and LX.

Last night my Dad was over. He's a Canon guy since the 1970's. He's been a photog 
since his army days...well, actually since his Eagle Scout days at the Philmont Ranch 
in New Mexico. Later, he shot with a Speed Graphic and Yashica D for a couple of tiny 
LA papers in the late 50's and early 60's. 

Anyway, like I said, he's a Canon guy and he used to love his A-1 bodies. He had a 
T-90 that he sold about a year ago when it died and he loved that body, too. He won't 
switch over to the EOS system because he doesn't want to give up his FD lenses (and 
says he'll never forgive Canon for the switch!). He really admires my LX and thinks 
the SMC lenses are works of art. When I told him that Canon had a similar body to the 
LX in the F1n he was intrigued. He bought one and he loves it.

He just got his second body last night with a power winder and another AE prism. I had 
a chance to really fumble around with that body and here are my impressions of it 
versus the LX.

Firstly, it is a very stout body. It feels very solid and is no doubt a rugged 
photographic tool. It's easier than the LX to change screens since they drop in from 
the top under the prism. The layout of the controls is nice, and the matte black 
finish is attractive and unique but harder to keep clean than the LX. The DOF preview 
is not as easy to use as the LX's and the camera is heavier and larger. The prism has 
a viewfinder blind which I can take or leave. The viewfinder the LX is the shure 
winner. The exposure information on the F1n is analog and sometimes hard to see. I've 
never had that problem with the LED's in the LX viewfinder.

The winder is nice and is a bit more featured than the Winder LX. Although it does 
feature it's own frame counter it seems redundant to me. It counts down from 36, or 
24, or 12...or wherever you want but I found it tricky to set as the wheel is small. 
It has it's own shutter release which is a plus over the LX Winder plus another 
release for portrait orientation (nice!). Also, unlike the LX and the Nikon F3, the 
Canon can be used in Shutter Priority AE with the Winder or Motor drive attached. For 
those of you who have the SMC-A lenses and an LX body you may be hearing a Beach Boys 
tune right now...Wouldn't it be nice...

Overall however, the design of the F1 is clunkier than the LX. It's not nearly as 
intuitive to use and although the Canon FD lenses are numerous and very well made, I 
can't help thinking the LX can handle anything the F1 can. 

Let me know what you think.

Brendan
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Re: European mail order

2001-12-19 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

you've got a good memory! When I bought my Pentax ringflash in 1999 I
think I compared prices at various places and found that it was
cheaper for me to get it from I think Ravensburger Fotoversand in
Germany. It was at least £150- cheaper than in the UK. The actual
price was slightly cheaper in the US than in Germany, but shipping,
VAT and duty pushed the figure above the German price. I didn't do a
general survey in any way, and for some photographic equipment the
prices in Germany and the UK are the same.

For buying film you might try www.7dayshop.com, which is very good
compared to UK prices because of some loophole whereby they don't pay
VAT in the Channel Islands, which is the bricks  mortar location of
the company.

I don't think it's possible to say 'xxx is cheaper for Pentax'. It
seems to vary with the particular thing you want and when you want it.

In the UK of course we're pretending that there's no such thing as the
Euro; as usual the rest of Europe is out of step with us g. When we
switched from groats to decimal currency in the early 1970s prices went
up because people were too confused to realise. The same thing may well
happen in Euroland.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 9:49:53 AM, you wrote:

 Less than 2 weeks to the official launch of the Euro - should simplify price 
 comparisons and bargain hunting across Europe. Can anyone recommend reliable 
 mail order houses within Europe. I remember some discussion quite awhile ago 
 about some place in Germany (I think that Bob Walkden did some comparisons 
 with UK prices???) Who offers the best Pentax and fikm prices - are there 
 savings to be had in buying larger quantities of Velvia by mail order?
 regards, Pat
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OT:Epson scanner

2001-12-19 Thread David Brooks

Just wondering if anyone has experience with
a scanner i'm thinking about getting for a Christmas
gift to me.
Its the Epson 1250,(i think,flyer is missing)and
claims 1200 x 2400 dpi,48 bit colour,USB etc
with the much talked about/trashed and hated transparancy
adaptor.
Is the dpi going to be that much better than tyhe 600x1200's
out there(i assume it will)but more intereted in personal
experiences rather than store written testimonials.

Thanks in advance

Dave(as soon as it stops raining this week,hopes to try out his
newly aquired S3,55:1.8,135:3.5 and 200:4)Brooks


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Picture mounting and framing...

2001-12-19 Thread tom

Ed Mathews wrote:
 
  Plus I'd get fingerprints all over the acetate.
 
 Not a problem for me.  I must keep my fingers cleaner than you do for
 some reason. :)

It ain't my fault, it's all those dirty brides.

 
  Happy? Not really, I have a bit of a headache and Jeepgirl
  hasn't spoken to me in at least a month. Plus this stupid
  cell phone I bought today seems to have a battery life of
  maybe 6 minutes.
 
 You need to cognitively re-appraise this situation:  Jeepgirl is married
 now, and you'd just get yourself into trouble if she was talking to you.

I talk to you, and you're married...

No, we're just friends, I swear! Sure, he played with my zoom, but it
was platonic!

 And the longer you talk on a cell phone, the more it costs.  And have
 you ever heard that phrase, Please hit me over the head with a hammer,
 because it feels so goo when you stop.?

You said 'goo'. 

snort

tv
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Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread tom

Christian Skofteland wrote:
 
 In the book I mentioned before Art gives a 200-400 N a real workout.

Art Wolfe uses Canon and Mamiya these days. I'll bet he's using that
100-400 IS (or whatever it is) quite a bit. I'd use it too if it were
free...

On a side note, Art Wolfe was a speaker at Grandfather Mountain Photo
Weekend a few years ago. The implication here is that if you come to
GMPW *this* coming year, I can absolutely gaurantee that there will be
someone there who will talk about nature photography and will show
actual pictures.

I swear.

tv
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Mir 47-K 20 mm. 2.5 user's manual?

2001-12-19 Thread Carlos Royo

Hello all:
Today I received the  MC Mir 47-K 20 mm. 2.5 I purchased some days ago
through Ebay.
The user's manual comes in Russian, and I would like to know if there is
a translated version, in English, French, Spanish or Portuguese,...
somewhere in the Internet, or if some of you have one you could scan or
photocopy for me.
Best wishes,

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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Re: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread tom

I wrote:
 
  The implication here is that if you come to
 GMPW *this* coming year, I can absolutely gaurantee that there will be
 someone there who will talk about nature photography and will show
 actual pictures.

To be more specific, the big name guy will be Bill Fortney, who's done a
book called America from 500 Feet. You can find it on Amazon, and I
think he'll be on the Today show pretty soon.

The #2 guy will be our own Mark Roberts, who's done a book called The
PDML from too Damned Close, featuring photos of Dr. Pepper bottles and
guys standing around and staring at camera lenses. 

tv
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Re: ES-10 film scanner ?

2001-12-19 Thread Carlos Royo

E. van Ginkel wrote:
 
 It's a nice cheap scanner with a solid feel to it. I have one and the scans
 look nice, but there is one major drawback. It slow beyond belief.
 Its a parrallelport scanner and it takes about 11 minutes to make an scan on
 its highest (1770dpi) resolution. The software is not all that bad maybe a
 bit too Windows 3.1-ish. The PC the scanner is connected to is a 1GHz AMD
 Thunderbird with 512mb of memory, so thats is not the one which slows it
 down.
 

Some years ago I had the chance to try one of these scanners and it
didn't scan so slowly. Perhaps you should check the configuration of
your computer BIOS, and see if you have configured your parallel port as
compatible (i.e. slow unidirectional mode). In that case, you should
change the PC parallel port mode to ECP, this is the bidirectional
mode, much faster, which uses a DMA (direct memory access) channel,
usually DMA channel 3 or 1, to speed up the access to the devices you
connect to such port.
Regards,

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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Re: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

I think you are slightly mistaken in your figures (I am being polite). The
current of four batteries in series is the same as one battery, but the
voltage is 4 times as high. For batteries in parallel have 4x the current
but the voltage stays the same as one battery.

However, the question of whether rechargeable will hurt the equipment is a
matter of whether the manufacture was depending on the internal resistance
(high on alkalines, low on rechargeables) for current limiting, or has built
current limiting into the circuit (more expensive). A battery will deliver
current proportional to its load, and if there is no external load that is
the internal resistance. A dead shorted ni-cad AA will deliver about an amp
for a couple of minutes. Long enough to melt the battery and maybe the
equipment it is in, and that kind of current can destroy integrated circuits
in micro-seconds.

So, if the manufacture did not design the equipment to use rechargeables you
may have a problem, a very real problem. On the other hand sometimes they
just tell you not to use rechargeables to limit their liability, or to try
and make you buy their own battery pack, and the equipment is perfectly
capable of handling them.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p


 When I was doing those Nimh tsts I also mesured the
 amperage of the cells, the best alkaline battery testd
 at 1.6V 40~50 ma, a 1600 mah nimh battery was 1.3v
 130-140 ma, now remember your puttting 4 of these in a
 fg battery pack, so 4 regular or rechargable alkalines
 will provide 160-200 ma to the camera, now 4 nimh or
 nicads are powering 560 ma to the camera, if they
 built it to be powered by a higher voltage lower
 amperage source and you double/triple the apmerage it
 is only a matter of time before you burn something in
 it. No rechargables in my MZ-3, the flashes can use
 them all they want, since I change the AA's in the
 MZ-3 every 3 months but the flahses nightly
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Re: Help with 6x7 battery

2001-12-19 Thread Pat White

Paul, for portrait work, you might find the 165/2.8 to be ideal.  It comes in
early and late versions, and with or without a leaf shutter.  The early
version has the long grooves or flutes on the focussing ring, while the late
version has the rubber checker pattern.

Pat White
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RE: Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Rfsindg

Felicity,

You're a peach and Malcolm should appreciate you!

Regards,  Bob S.  ;-)

Mrs. Felicity Smith wrote:
 Cotty,

 Mrs Malcolm is well aware of the implications
 of the LX wink, and is, in this case anyway,
 responsible for Malcolm acquiring said habit. 
 Mrs Malcolm supplied the LX as a slightly early
 Christmas present.

 Felicity
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Naw, as you very well know, its about getting kids to smile happily when
they are in a strange place, with a bunch of strange people, and a lot of
strange stuff all  of it pointed at them. If you can do that you can get a
good photo with anything that will expose film.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Doug Brewer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations


 So keep this in mind, you young photographers out
 there: unless you have five versions of every lens and
 can recite MTF data for every one of them, you suck as
 a photographer and should explore other hobbies.

 And don't even =think= photography is about photographs.

 Doug


 Ashwood Lake Photography
 http://www.alphoto.com
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Re: Needing a AF500FTZ

2001-12-19 Thread Carlos Royo

Thanks for your free advertising, Flavio. I sold the flash on Monday, to
a member of the PDML.
The MZ-5 and SFX are still avaliable, though.

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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Re: Canon F1n v Pentax LX

2001-12-19 Thread Camdir

Brendan. 

I loved the F1n. An ugly old brute, but superbly versatile and a good range 
of fast optics. Spot meter via focus screens, worked in the rain (unlike the 
T90), lighted match needle display for available light shooting. Didn't 
really have any faults, apart from being an old clunker. Only wish Pentax had 
put spot on the LX.

Kind regards

Peter
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Re: Saturation in ISO 400 C-41?

2001-12-19 Thread Carlos Royo

Joseph Tainter wrote:
 
 My question is: which gives the highest color saturation? Agfa Vista 400
 and Superia Extra 400 look like possible candidates. Has anyone compared
 their color saturation? Are there other candidates I should consider?
 

I don't shoot colour negative film very often, but my wife does. Once
said this, in the process of getting used to the MZ-S, I have used
several negative films, and I tried the Agfa Vista 400. It is saturated,
but it is also the worst Agfa film I've ever tried, it is grainy, not
sharp at all, and its lack of contrast sucks.
I have also (and my wife has used it a lot in the last pair of years)
used Superia, both in 100 and 400 ISO speeds. The 400 Superia is an
excellent film, it yields very good colour, saturated but not unnatural,
and the grain is not noticeable, even in the enlargments we've had done,
although those are not big (18x24 cm., I think). It also scans very
well.

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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RE: Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Malcolm Smith

Well thanks for posting that!!

I'll never hear the end of it now!! ;-)


Malcolm

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 19 December 2001 20:57
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Thank you (re: LX advice)


Felicity,

You're a peach and Malcolm should appreciate you!

Regards,  Bob S.  ;-)

Mrs. Felicity Smith wrote:
 Cotty,

 Mrs Malcolm is well aware of the implications
 of the LX wink, and is, in this case anyway,
 responsible for Malcolm acquiring said habit. 
 Mrs Malcolm supplied the LX as a slightly early
 Christmas present.

 Felicity
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Re: Dec PUG comments for Theriault, Osojnik

2001-12-19 Thread Matjaz Osojnik

Jaume,

being a little late with reply, thanks for your comment. I'm no big fan of 
macro either, but decided to try out new glass in my collection, SMC 
Takumar 28/3,5 which goes a little beyond 1:1 when reversed.  I took 
several shots of that ashtray but decided for this one exactly because 
of the texture it shows. I like the definition as Moon in Warhol's manner 
too. Thanks. As for other experiments, I took some night portraits at 
candle light but the results were to contrasty since I used Ilford HP5 at 
3200 ASA which pushed the contrast to much. As well there were some 
close-up shots of CD collection in the rack with reversed M 50/1.7 that I 
like but I should clean CDs more carefully since there was some 
distracting dust visible. I might use one of them for the PUG some day.

Thanks again, Matjaz

 “Caught in the Glass” by  Matjaz Osojnik:
 
 I am (still) not really fan of macro, specially
 flowers or insects, but sometimes there are patterns
 and textures that work very well on this kind of
 photography. And yours is an exemple.
 I would define it as a Moon in a kind of Andy Warhol’s
 way… :-)
 Since it is about showing a texture, I can’t think on
 improvement or suggestions in this one.
 Great idea and very good result, will you show us the
 rest of your ‘experiments’?
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Re: Auggie Wren's Christmas Story

2001-12-19 Thread Matjaz Osojnik

Great idea to share Auggie's story, Shel. Smoke is one of my favorite 
movies. I went to see it 2 or 3 times when it was playing here and 
Auggie Wren's Christmas story really touched me. I love it. Great final 
touch to a great movie. Thanks for sharing it.

Cao, Matjaz

 The holiday season is upon us once again.
 
 This year, as I did last year, I'd like to share a favorite story with
 the list.  Perhaps it will be a welcome change from recent flames and
 arguments here, and stories about the war in Afghanistan, the poor
 economy, and other less-than-joyous events in the world.  I hope you
 enjoy it.
 
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/xmas-story.html
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Chris Niesmertelny

Yup, that's the one.  Cheesy is a very kind way to describe the package.
Yes, it does the job, but I'm quite certain it can be done better, and
without leaving my fingers greasy after use.

The scanner is competent, if noisy and a bit slow, but it does exactly what
I want it to do (at least, for the price, I can't complain).

However, this thread has got me hungry.  Time for snacks!

Chris



Clive remarked:


I'm reading this thread with interest because the Primefilm looks to be
the same box I bought here in the UK as a Microtek Filmscan 35.  Not
sure if the software bundle's the same, though - in addition to the
Cyberview tool, mine came with something called Presto Imagefolio LE,
which seems (to my unpractised hand) adequate but quite liberally
sprinkled with Gruyere, Mozzarella and fine farmhouse Wensleydale.  If I
can be bothered to download 51MB, I may well give the Elements demo a
run.
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Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Chris Niesmertelny

Thanks for the info, Bruce.  It looks like Paintshop Pro is a quicker
download for the trial, so that's the one I'll be trying first.

I appreciate your response!

Regards,

Chris




Chris,

You should also look at Paintshop Pro (www.jasc.com).  I have tried
just about everything, including elements and feel that for general
photo editing, it works very well.  It doesn't have quite the graphic
artist manipulation capabilities of Photoshop (full version), but is
only $100 versus $600 for Photoshop.  I believe you can get a trial of
both Elements and Paintshop Pro.  That is the best way - test for
yourself.  I did and found that Paintshop Pro fit my needs and usage
best.

Good luck,


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 8:00:08 AM, you wrote:

CN I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
CN PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements,
and
CN need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the
PrimeFilm
CN and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I
should
CN be considering?

CN Much thanks to anyone responding.

CN Best regards,
CN Chris
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Re[2]: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Bruce Dayton

Chris,

One of my favorite features of PaintShop Pro is that for applying the
same basic edits to multiple images (color correction, sharpening,
etc.) it remembers the last settings used so if the changes are the
same, it is very quick to use.  The others I tried I had to remember
the settings and reset for every image.  Often, when I scan a roll,
many of the corrections are the same or very close.


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 1:50:56 PM, you wrote:

CN Thanks for the info, Bruce.  It looks like Paintshop Pro is a quicker
CN download for the trial, so that's the one I'll be trying first.

CN I appreciate your response!

CN Regards,

CN Chris




CN Chris,

CN You should also look at Paintshop Pro (www.jasc.com).  I have tried
CN just about everything, including elements and feel that for general
CN photo editing, it works very well.  It doesn't have quite the graphic
CN artist manipulation capabilities of Photoshop (full version), but is
CN only $100 versus $600 for Photoshop.  I believe you can get a trial of
CN both Elements and Paintshop Pro.  That is the best way - test for
CN yourself.  I did and found that Paintshop Pro fit my needs and usage
CN best.

CN Good luck,


CN Bruce Dayton



CN Wednesday, December 19, 2001, 8:00:08 AM, you wrote:

CN I hate the bundled imaging software that came with my Pacific Image
CN PrimeFilm scanner.  I've been thinking about getting Photoshop Elements,
CN and
CN need some help.  Can anyone here (especially anyone who uses the
CN PrimeFilm
CN and PE) give advice on your satisfaction?  Are there other programs I
CN should
CN be considering?

CN Much thanks to anyone responding.

CN Best regards,
CN Chris
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Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Rob Studdert

On 19 Dec 2001 at 7:04, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
 if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!

Hi Shel,

My K50f1.2 reads 1:1.2 50mm, its serial number is 1468197

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Rob Studdert

On 19 Dec 2001 at 10:28, Brendan wrote:

 When I was doing those Nimh tsts I also mesured the
 amperage of the cells, the best alkaline battery testd
 at 1.6V 40~50 ma, a 1600 mah nimh battery was 1.3v
 130-140 ma, now remember your puttting 4 of these in a
 fg battery pack, so 4 regular or rechargable alkalines
 will provide 160-200 ma to the camera, now 4 nimh or
 nicads are powering 560 ma to the camera, if they
 built it to be powered by a higher voltage lower
 amperage source and you double/triple the apmerage it
 is only a matter of time before you burn something in
 it. No rechargables in my MZ-3, the flashes can use
 them all they want, since I change the AA's in the
 MZ-3 every 3 months but the flahses nightly

Hi Brendan (and whomever else is interested),

Sorry it doesn't work this way, the batteries are in series, consider voltage 
as the ~potential~ pressure available to push electrons thorough the circuit, 
stack the batteries (ie put them in series) and the potential pressure 
increases (in fact the voltage adds ie 4 x 1.2 for NiMH, 4 x 1.5 for Alkaline 
or 4 x 1.25 for NiCd)

The current flow in any circuit is determined by the potential of the source 
(ie battery voltage), the internal resistance of the battery (determined by 
it's short circuit current potential) and the resistance of the circuit which 
is the load (ie camera, flash, motor etc). The battery and load resistances are 
always in series (resistances in series add ie create a higher resistance) so 
the maximum current that can be supplied is governed by Ohms law which is 
current (amperes) = voltage (volts) / resistance (ohms).

Therefore the current can't be forced and usually in any device (excepting a 
very badly designed one) the current flow is less when used with rechargeable 
cells as the terminal voltage is lower. Generally (given the same sized cell) 
the internal resistance of a NiCd cell is lower than a NiMH which is lower than 
Alkaline which is lower than the old carbon cells, but the difference should 
only be noted under very large load current requirements (ie a low resistance 
load approaching what is effectively a short circuit).

In short if any electronics engineer designs a circuit that factors the 
internal resistance of the battery into the design deserves to have a fried 
circuit on their hands, so it doesn't happen very often (and it would be very 
apparent in the field as not may users ever RTFM). There might be potential in 
a badly designed flash gun or motor drive for over-heating due to excessive 
current flow but it's not common.

On the other hand there are now a range of devices on the market (mostly 
digital cameras) where they are designed specifically for use with NiMH or NiCd 
rechargable AA cell in which conventional AA Alkaline cells will fry the 
devices due to their comparatively high terminal voltages (hence they can cause 
excessive current flow).

The battery rating in mAh is simply the absolute charge holding capacity of the 
battery like MB of hard disk, it has little to do with current flow in ordinary 
circumstances (ie AA use in photo equipment). It can be used to determine the 
potential life of the batteries charge for a given current drain, ie if you 
have a 1600mAh battery supplying a circuit which draws 100mA then the battery 
should theoretically last for 16hours before it is discharged.

BTW the formula for power dissipated in a load is voltage (volts) x current 
(amperes) = power (watts) therefore power = voltage(squared) / resistance so a 
small change in terminal voltage has a large impact on power dissipated by the 
circuit.

Sorry about the OT rant but there is no point discussing these sorts of things 
when there are fundamental misunderstandings of the laws.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Thank you (re: LX advice)

2001-12-19 Thread Cotty

Cotty,

Mrs Malcolm is well aware of the implications of the LX wink, and is, in
this case anyway, responsible for Malcolm acquiring said habit.  Mrs Malcolm
supplied the LX as a slightly early Christmas present.

Felicity

Jumping Jehosaphat! Enables *and* supplies. What a woman!

A joyful festive season and a peaceful new year to you both.

;-)
Cotty

___
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Re: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Patrick White

Otis Wright, Jr. Wrote:
Any one know out there happen to have info on the relative short
circuit characteristics of  NiCd, NiMH, Alkaline, Lithium etc. cells?
Cold there be circumstances where one or more of these sources delivers
more current than some older designs provided for?

I can't speak to theoretical stuff like this, but I can speak practically.
From past experience, I know that ordinary flashlights burn brighter with
NiCad cells than with fresh alkaline cells.  Flashlights are not running
near the maximum current limit of the cells, but the internal resistance of
the cell is a significant part of the power calculation for them.
Things like motors tend to run a lot closer to the current limit of the
cell when starting.  While this may not be much of a problem for the motor
itself, the control circuitry may not be able to handle the extra current
without overheating.
However, all this aside, I find it unlikely that the designers of the
camera went so far as to use bench power supplies that emulated the internal
resistance of a battery.  Since a bench power supply can source tons more
current than a typical small battery cell, there probably is a safe voltage
at which the camera can be run no matter tha battery technology.  No?

later,
patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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Re: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread gabriel bovino

Well put

and never, ever, under no circumstance, should anyone lick a light socket.


:)

- Original Message -
From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p


 On 19 Dec 2001 at 10:28, Brendan wrote:

  When I was doing those Nimh tsts I also mesured the
  amperage of the cells, the best alkaline battery testd
  at 1.6V 40~50 ma, a 1600 mah nimh battery was 1.3v
  130-140 ma, now remember your puttting 4 of these in a
  fg battery pack, so 4 regular or rechargable alkalines
  will provide 160-200 ma to the camera, now 4 nimh or
  nicads are powering 560 ma to the camera, if they
  built it to be powered by a higher voltage lower
  amperage source and you double/triple the apmerage it
  is only a matter of time before you burn something in
  it. No rechargables in my MZ-3, the flashes can use
  them all they want, since I change the AA's in the
  MZ-3 every 3 months but the flahses nightly

 Hi Brendan (and whomever else is interested),

 Sorry it doesn't work this way, the batteries are in series, consider
voltage
 as the ~potential~ pressure available to push electrons thorough the
circuit,
 stack the batteries (ie put them in series) and the potential pressure
 increases (in fact the voltage adds ie 4 x 1.2 for NiMH, 4 x 1.5 for
Alkaline
 or 4 x 1.25 for NiCd)

 The current flow in any circuit is determined by the potential of the
source
 (ie battery voltage), the internal resistance of the battery (determined
by
 it's short circuit current potential) and the resistance of the circuit
which
 is the load (ie camera, flash, motor etc). The battery and load
resistances are
 always in series (resistances in series add ie create a higher resistance)
so
 the maximum current that can be supplied is governed by Ohms law which is
 current (amperes) = voltage (volts) / resistance (ohms).

 Therefore the current can't be forced and usually in any device (excepting
a
 very badly designed one) the current flow is less when used with
rechargeable
 cells as the terminal voltage is lower. Generally (given the same sized
cell)
 the internal resistance of a NiCd cell is lower than a NiMH which is lower
than
 Alkaline which is lower than the old carbon cells, but the difference
should
 only be noted under very large load current requirements (ie a low
resistance
 load approaching what is effectively a short circuit).

 In short if any electronics engineer designs a circuit that factors the
 internal resistance of the battery into the design deserves to have a
fried
 circuit on their hands, so it doesn't happen very often (and it would be
very
 apparent in the field as not may users ever RTFM). There might be
potential in
 a badly designed flash gun or motor drive for over-heating due to
excessive
 current flow but it's not common.

 On the other hand there are now a range of devices on the market (mostly
 digital cameras) where they are designed specifically for use with NiMH or
NiCd
 rechargable AA cell in which conventional AA Alkaline cells will fry the
 devices due to their comparatively high terminal voltages (hence they can
cause
 excessive current flow).

 The battery rating in mAh is simply the absolute charge holding capacity
of the
 battery like MB of hard disk, it has little to do with current flow in
ordinary
 circumstances (ie AA use in photo equipment). It can be used to determine
the
 potential life of the batteries charge for a given current drain, ie if
you
 have a 1600mAh battery supplying a circuit which draws 100mA then the
battery
 should theoretically last for 16hours before it is discharged.

 BTW the formula for power dissipated in a load is voltage (volts) x
current
 (amperes) = power (watts) therefore power = voltage(squared) / resistance
so a
 small change in terminal voltage has a large impact on power dissipated by
the
 circuit.

 Sorry about the OT rant but there is no point discussing these sorts of
things
 when there are fundamental misunderstandings of the laws.

 Cheers,
 Rob Studdert
 HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
 Tel +61-2-9554-4110
 UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
 -
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 visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: In Praise of E100VS

2001-12-19 Thread JTodd19261

Did you push the film a stop during processing when rated at ISO 200?
And as for the cross-processing, did you rate it @ 100, and are you scanning 
the negs or basing your likings on lab proofs?
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67: 45 vs 55

2001-12-19 Thread JTodd19261

With the recent discussions on the 45mm, which everyone seems to appreciate, 
I wonder why the 55f/4 is the more expensive lens.  I have the 55 and have 
always wanted the 45, or so I thought.  Any easy explainations?
I had the 55f/3.5 but wasn't thrilled with the results, except for the 
viewfinder brightness. 
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Re: Saturation in ISO 400 C-41?

2001-12-19 Thread Paul Stenquist

When I need a highly saturated, fine grain ISO 400 color negative film,
I shoot Kodak Portra 400VC. Very good contrast and color when properly
exposed. But good exposures are a must. It doesn't have the latitude of
Kodak's (or Fuji's) consumer films.
Paul

Carlos Royo wrote:
 
 Joseph Tainter wrote:
 
  My question is: which gives the highest color saturation? Agfa Vista 400
  and Superia Extra 400 look like possible candidates. Has anyone compared
  their color saturation? Are there other candidates I should consider?
 
 
 I don't shoot colour negative film very often, but my wife does. Once
 said this, in the process of getting used to the MZ-S, I have used
 several negative films, and I tried the Agfa Vista 400. It is saturated,
 but it is also the worst Agfa film I've ever tried, it is grainy, not
 sharp at all, and its lack of contrast sucks.
 I have also (and my wife has used it a lot in the last pair of years)
 used Superia, both in 100 and 400 ISO speeds. The 400 Superia is an
 excellent film, it yields very good colour, saturated but not unnatural,
 and the grain is not noticeable, even in the enlargments we've had done,
 although those are not big (18x24 cm., I think). It also scans very
 well.
 
 --
 Carlos Royo
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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Re: A Really Neat Camera Strap

2001-12-19 Thread Paul Stenquist

Good idea. I'm a strap user, but I sometimes like to remove them. As you
note, this setup particularly suitable for an MX, which should sometimes
travel in one's pocket. I'm going to make a pair of these for my MX.
Thanks for the tip.
Paul

Shel Belinkoff wrote:
 
 I just had to share this with the list.  If you've got a nice, older
 camera and hate to see the finish abraded by the strap or the strap
 attachments, this might be just the solution.  I'm putting one together
 for my Leicas at it easily allows switching from a neck strap to a wrist
 strap, and it seems to work nicely on the MX as well.
 
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/non-abrassive.html
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: In Praise of E100VS

2001-12-19 Thread Paul Stenquist

E100VS has become my color transparency film of choice for most
subjects, although I'll use the E100S version for people photography.
These films exhibit none of the too blue or blocking tendencies of the
old Ektachromes. IMHO, the color seems more natural than Fuji stocks,
and they scan better.
Paul

Brian Campbell (PM) wrote:
 
 On 19 Dec 2001, at 10:50, Joseph Tainter wrote:
 
  This past September in northern Europe was frustrating for photography.
  Clouds and rain had come early. To get some punch in my pictures I shot
  E100VS at ISO 200. I needed the higher speed for some low-light
  situations. I am very pleased with the results. Scanning at 2700 dpi and
  printing 8-1/2 x 11 inch enlargements on my Epson 870, the grain seems
  quite reasonable. I actually detect no grain in skies, just a little in
  some pink shades (Baroque building colors). Black turned very slightly
  gray, with a bit of grain - but not really noticeable at normal viewing
  distance.
 
  All-in-all, I think I've found the right film for overcast conditions.
 
 Actually it cross-processes pretty well too, I really liked the effect
 on a couple test rolls I got back recently.
 
 Cheers!
 Brian
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Re: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Rob Studdert

On 19 Dec 2001 at 20:38, Doug Franklin wrote:

 On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:10:00 -0500, Otis Wright, Jr. wrote:
 
  Any one know out there happen to have info on the relative short
  circuit characteristics of  NiCd, NiMH, Alkaline, Lithium etc. cells?
 
 A six-cell pack of 1400, 1600, or 2000 mAh Sub-C NiCD (Sanyo or
 Panasonic) cells is reputed to deliver 100A or more of dead-short
 current for a _very_ short time.  Within five to ten seconds, the cells
 overheat to the point they can give you a 2nd degree burn and they
 violently start venting gas (don't know what type of gas). [Sub-C cells
 are slightly smaller than a C size alkaline battery.]  I've seen this
 happen several times in the 1:10 scale electric R/C cars.
 
 In a controlled test several years ago, an acquaintance measured a
 specific six-Sub-C 1600 mAh pack dead shorting a bit over 100A for less
 than five seconds.  The current delivered dropped off to zero over the
 next thirty or so seconds as the internal structure self-destructed
 from the heat and and the chemical system was depleted by the venting.

:-)

Keen, I just checked the specs for the 1600mAh AA NiMH cells that I use in all 
my gear, the shirt circuit current is 7.75A for 2 seconds max, the cells 
internal resistance when fully charged is 25 mOhm. 

see: http://users.skynet.be/bs137713/DATASHEET/pdf/VH1600AA.PDF

AFAIK NiMH cells have a higher energy density than NiCd cells but NiCd have a 
far higher short circuit current in most cases. I believe that some aircraft 
use NiCd batteries for starting?

In school we used to use charged AA NiCd cells to heat up the pocket clips on 
old Parker ball point pens before sending across the room via air vbg
Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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OT - Voigtlander Bessa R

2001-12-19 Thread frank theriault

A month or two ago, I recall some discussion here about whether Pentax
should consider marketing an upgraded Spotmatic - a sort of limited
edition high-quality metal-bodied all-mechanical.  Love my Spotmatics
though I do, I think I poo-pooed the idea as something that Pentax would
never do, thinking that there would be no market for it, and it would be
too expensive to be worth doing.

I just noticed the Voigtlander Bessa R.  A rangefinder with a metal
body, all mechanical with led ttl metering, takes Leica (L mount)
screwmount lenses (for goodness sake!).  I think they're made in Japan
by Cosina.  I'm very interested!

Anyone out there have any experience with them?  Anyone know how much
they cost?

Thanks and regards,
frank

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pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Re: Mid 20th century look (was Re[2]: 50mm/f1.2

2001-12-19 Thread Rob Studdert

On 18 Dec 2001 at 8:19, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

 There are a lot of factors that have changed since the fifties. Film and
 paper of course as you have mentioned. Optics, lenses are very much crisper now.
 Lighting, in the fifties it was mostly hot lights and flash bulbs though a few
 were using big strobes which even so give a far different look to a shot than
 the small auto-strobes we use today...

What about the effect of the anti-halation layer? When was it made commonplace?

I know that Kodak HIE (high speed IR) film has no AH layer, that is why the 
contrasty edges have a real sort of glow.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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