Re: Help with Super A/SuperProgram

2012-06-16 Thread Jens

I put two LR44 in it. It works just fine. Super A Mint- (minor marks in paint, 
hardly visible at the back). 27 Euro + shipping. Great buy, I think!I took so 
many nice photographs with a Super A! 
Thanks for your support PDML'ers.
Regards
Jens  
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On Jun 15, 2012 22:27 Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
 Thanks, Brian (and others) - I'll go and get some batteries :-)
 
 I got a very nice (looks like new) Super A for just 27 Euros in
 Germany -  actually a great country to buy from, that is if you speak
 German. Because of the language problems (many Germans are not
 comfartable with speaking or writing English) , many Germans normally
 ship world wide, which means the items will never go very high at ebay
 :-) Many international sellers will ask for 5 times this much :-)
 
 Now I have allmost re-purchased every Pentax film camera I have ever
 sold - MX, ME-super, Super A, Z1p, MZ-S etc. Now I can afford to keep
 them all :-)
 
 Regards
 Jens
 

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Re: K-5

2011-03-29 Thread Jens

Here a shot from the day:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladt/5571771712/

Regards
Jens
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On Mar 28, 2011 03:05 Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
 Man, I love my K-5 already. Nicest Pentax in a long time.   
 At my grandchilds 5 year birthday yesterday, I shot a bunch of frames,
 levaing the flash in the camerabag. Of course there's some noice at
 ISO 1200 - or 1 - but the shots were still useable I think. I
 think the light in a livning room is SO MUCH nicer, than the light
 from af flash.
 Regards
 Jens 
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 Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself.
 
 On Mar 28, 2011 02:46 Rick Womer rwomer1...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Excellent, as usual.  
  Rick
  
  http://photo.net/photos/RickW
  
  
  --- On Sun, 3/27/11, DagT li...@thrane.name wrote:
  
   From: DagT li...@thrane.name
   Subject: PAW64 - See an be seen.
   To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
   Date: Sunday, March 27, 2011, 5:24 PM
   http://www.thrane.name/Pictures/PAW/files/page7-1000-full.html
   K-5, DA21mm, 1/320s, f/7.1, ISO200 
   
   
   DagT
   http://www.thrane.name/
   
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Re: Re: K-5

2011-03-29 Thread Jens
The K-5 feels almost as good in my hand as my MZ-S
True!
The MZ-S is ergonomically awesome. When walking with it, I can hold it in just 
three fingers (no thumb) - it's just sort of hangin' there. No other camera 
ever felt that good in my hands. But the K-5 i getting there - not bad at all.
Regards
Jens


 
Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself.

On Mar 29, 2011 05:50 Christine  Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Can't wait to see the pics, Paul!  Cheers, Christine
 - Original Message - 
 From: Paul Sorenson allarou...@earthlink.net
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 11:34 PM
 Subject: Re: K-5
 
 
  It's a sweet camera.  The UPS guy brought mine to the door about
  1:30 
  Friday.  Had a prior commitment for the weekend so I've just been
  going at 
  the manual a little at a time.  Hope to get out tomorrow to give it
  a real 
  try.  The K-5 feels almost as good in my hand as my MZ-S.
 
  BH is discounting their second day air shipping to less than $10
  and I 
  discovered my credit card has a 60 day low price guarantee so I
  figured 
  now was as good a time as any to get one.
 
  -p
 
  On 3/27/2011 11:11 PM, Christine Aguila wrote:
 
  - Original Message - From: Jens p...@planfoto.dk
  To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 8:05 PM
  Subject: K-5
 
 
 
  Man, I love my K-5 already. Nicest Pentax in a long time.
 
 
  I may be getting one of those soon.  Just might do it.  Cheers,
  Christine
 
 
 
  -- 
  Being old doesn't seem so old now that I'm old.
 
 
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Choosing long telephoto lens

2011-04-03 Thread Jens
Hi list
Opinions wanted.
I have been wanting a long telphoto lens for some time. For supplementing my FA 
2.8 80-200mm.

Looking at ebay I can chose from two excellent lenses:
Sigma EX 100-300mm F4 ( perhaps 600-800 Euros)- not DG but for full frame 
(still got many film SLR's).
Pentax DA 300mm F4 (offered to me for 750 Euros) - digital only (APS-C). 

I am leaning towards the Sigma lens because of the zoom, I guess I'll use this 
one more often. Is the Pentax DA lens so much better, that I should forget 
about the zooming options?
Actually there's a FA 300mm F4.5 too - but I dont know anything about this lens.
Does anyone know anything about the FA? I guess the price will be almost the 
same - apr. 1000 USD.

And there's (always) the SMC F 300mm F4 too - but currently one is for sale 
(BIN) for 1200 Euros (close to 1800 USD, which is too steep for me).

Thanks
Jens



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Re: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens

2011-04-03 Thread Jens
Thanks PJ.
I alreay got the M* 300 F4. It's a wonderful lens. But I want AF :-)

Regards
Jens

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On Apr 3, 2011 19:22 P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 4/3/2011 5:32 AM, Jens wrote:
  Hi list
  Opinions wanted.
  I have been wanting a long telphoto lens for some time. For
  supplementing my FA 2.8 80-200mm.
 
  Looking at ebay I can chose from two excellent lenses:
  Sigma EX 100-300mm F4 ( perhaps 600-800 Euros)- not DG but for full
  frame (still got many film SLR's).
  Pentax DA 300mm F4 (offered to me for 750 Euros) - digital only
  (APS-C).
 
  I am leaning towards the Sigma lens because of the zoom, I guess
  I'll use this one more often. Is the Pentax DA lens so much better,
  that I should forget about the zooming options?
  Actually there's a FA 300mm F4.5 too - but I dont know anything
  about this lens.
  Does anyone know anything about the FA? I guess the price will be
  almost the same - apr. 1000 USD.
 
  And there's (always) the SMC F 300mm F4 too - but currently one is
  for sale (BIN) for 1200 Euros (close to 1800 USD, which is too steep
  for me).
 
 I don't think there is a F 300mm 4.0.  The F version of the FA 300mm
 4.5 
 however shares the same optical design and has a built in tripod mount
 that the FA lacks.  I've never used one but there was much love for
 that 
 lens in either iteration on the list a few years back, BD.
 
 You might also look for a SMC A* or M* f4.0.  They're almost
 affordable 
 when compared to their auto-focus brethren.  The A* is particularly
 nice 
 paired with a AF 1.7x adapter.  The M is almost as good as you'll 
 probably be shooting wide open a lot and lack of automation won't
 matter 
 too much.
 
  Thanks
  Jens
 
 
 
 
 
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 Kaboom!
 
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Re: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens

2011-04-04 Thread Jens

Mike and Kenneth
I did check out the FA 4.5 300mm at PentaxForums. And @ Photozone reveiw 
(IIRC). This lens is not realy a competition to niether the DA or the F 
vessions of a 300mm F4 or 4.5, which are better choises, I believe.

Regards
Jens
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On Apr 4, 2011 20:21 Ken Waller kwal...@peoplepc.com wrote:
 Kenneth Waller
 http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller
 - Original Message - 
 From: mike wilson m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com
 
 Subject: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens
 
 
  On 03/04/2011 23:52, Ken Waller wrote:
 
  Kenneth Waller
  http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller
 
  - Original Message - From: mike wilson 
  m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com
  Subject: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens
 
 
  On 03/04/2011 11:32, Jens wrote:
  Hi list
  Opinions wanted.
  I have been wanting a long telphoto lens for some time. For
  supplementing my FA 2.8 80-200mm.
 
  Looking at ebay I can chose from two excellent lenses:
  Sigma EX 100-300mm F4 ( perhaps 600-800 Euros)- not DG but for
  full
  frame (still got many film SLR's).
  Pentax DA 300mm F4 (offered to me for 750 Euros) - digital only 
  (APS-C).
 
  I am leaning towards the Sigma lens because of the zoom, I guess
  I'll
  use this one more often. Is the Pentax DA lens so much better,
  that I
  should forget about the zooming options?
  Actually there's a FA 300mm F4.5 too - but I dont know anything
  about
  this lens.
  Does anyone know anything about the FA? I guess the price will
  be
  almost the same - apr. 1000 USD.
 
  And there's (always) the SMC F 300mm F4 too - but currently one
  is
  for sale (BIN) for 1200 Euros (close to 1800 USD, which is too
  steep
  for me).
 
  Tamron 300/2.8s are going for less than those prices these days.
 
  Thats good news but you should be prepared for the extra bulk and
  weight
  of it over say a 300 f4.5FA. I haven't shot with the Tamron but it
  is
  defimitely not as hand-holdable as the 4.5.
 
  I would argue that there isn't a 300mm made that is hand holdable,
  if you 
  want to take decent pictures.
 
 I think you'd loose that argument.
 While I agree mouinting a 300 f4.5 to a tripod is preferred, hand
 holding 
 the same lens can give perfectly satisfactory results - check out the
 300mm 
 f4.5 FA section of the PPG sometime.
 
 
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Re: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens

2011-04-04 Thread Jens

Thanks for sharing these photographs...
Regareds
jens
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On Apr 4, 2011 19:06 Matthew Hunt m...@pobox.com wrote:
 On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 11:11 AM, mike wilson m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com
 wrote:
  I would argue that there isn't a 300mm made that is hand holdable,
  if you
  want to take decent pictures.
 
 These are all DA*300/4 hand-held. And I would consider myself
 handicapped a bit by shooting a K10D, which I like to keep at quite
 low ISO settings. 2 more stops would be a nice improvement in DOF
 and/or motion blur.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2917327644/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2923337146/ (with Tamron 1.4x
 TC)
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2923372150/ (with Tamron 1.4x
 TC)
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2883706548/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/3707902187/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/3705394337/ (By incandescent
 bathroom lighting)
 
 Tamron 70-300 at 300mm:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2525886350/
 
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Re: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens

2011-04-04 Thread Jens

Brilliant. Thanks for sharing, Ann.
Regards
Jens
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On Apr 4, 2011 18:57 Ann Sanfedele ann...@nyc.rr.com wrote:
 mike wilson wrote:
  On 03/04/2011 23:52, Ken Waller wrote:
 
 
  Kenneth Waller
  http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller
 
  - Original Message - From: mike wilson 
  m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com
  Subject: Re: Choosing long telephoto lens
 
  On 03/04/2011 11:32, Jens wrote:
 
  Hi list
  Opinions wanted.
  I have been wanting a long telphoto lens for some time. For
  supplementing my FA 2.8 80-200mm. 
 
 
  Thats good news but you should be prepared for the extra bulk and
  weight
  of it over say a 300 f4.5FA. I haven't shot with the Tamron but it
  is
  defimitely not as hand-holdable as the 4.5.
 
 
  I would argue that there isn't a 300mm made that is hand holdable,
  if 
  you want to take decent pictures. 
 
 I took this hand held ... with the DA 55-300...   the 55-300 is very 
 light weight ...
 http://annsan.smugmug.com/Works-in-Print/Works-In-Progress/More-Critte
 rs/15842756_6QmYN/1/1187950299_FDCdG/Large
 
 I think it passes muster or, as I said as a child (pass the mustard)
 
 ann
 
 
 
 
 
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Advice, Photgraphing dogs

2011-04-07 Thread Jens
Hi List
Hopefully some of you will know what to buy.
A friend of mine wants to photograph dogs in action. She needs a camera, that 
will react quickly to presing the release button :-) She's not into photography 
as such, but needs a camera that can shoot moving dogs at a distance. Shoe 
doesn't min buying a DSLR. I guess maybe a 50-200mm lens would do the trick. 
Low noice would be perfect due to the need for fast shutter speeds. 

Which body and which lens should she boy?
(I may be a Pentax, but that's not a must. 

Regards
Jens  

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Re: Re: Advice, Photgraphing dogs

2011-04-07 Thread Jens
Thanks Larry.
All true.
But non photographers often use compact cameras with a lot of shutter lag. The 
picture aren't taken before the subject is long gone. She obviously wants 
instant action. To me that means SLR/DSLR. But some megazooms might do the 
trick too? I geuss a K-r would be a nice choise too.

Regards
Jens 

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On Apr 7, 2011 18:43 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
 On Apr 7, 2011, at 4:13 AM, Jens wrote:
  Hi List
  Hopefully some of you will know what to buy.
  A friend of mine wants to photograph dogs in action. She needs a
  camera, that will react quickly to presing the release button :-)
  She's not into photography as such, but needs a camera that can
  shoot moving dogs at a distance. Shoe doesn't min buying a DSLR. I
  guess maybe a 50-200mm lens would do the trick. Low noice would be
  perfect due to the need for fast shutter speeds. 
  
  Which body and which lens should she boy?
  (I may be a Pentax, but that's not a must. 
 
 Shutter lag tends to be a function of autofocus speed.  Shutter lag
 can be pretty much eliminated if she can prefocus, hit the AF button
 and then click the shutter.  Or, use the AF-C mode.
 
 If autofocus is an issue, and she get's Pentax she'd definitely want
 either a K-r or  K-5.
 
 What is her budget? How often does she need to do these photos?  Could
 you go and try a few and see which of your gear works, and get a
 better idea of what she needs?
 
 A lot of it is just going to boil down to skill, and practice.
 Throwing money at the issue can make up for some, but not all, lack of
 skill. Chances are that even most of the people on this list, which on
 average has pretty high photographic skills, wouldn't get great shots
 their first time taking photos of dogs in action. She may also want to
 get something along the lines of a monopod or a Bushhawk.
  
 
 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Re: Advice, Photgraphing dogs

2011-04-07 Thread Jens
Thanks a lot , Matthew.
Makes sence.
Your last remark made me laugh out loud.
If you don't mind, I'll forward your mail to her?

Regards
Jens

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On Apr 7, 2011 19:20 Matthew Hunt m...@pobox.com wrote:
 On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 12:43 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote:
  Chances are that even most of the people on this list, which on
  average
  has pretty high photographic skills, wouldn't get great shots their
  first time
  taking photos of dogs in action.
 
 My wife competes in dog agility (in the role of the human), and it's
 not too hard to get good shots of that, at least outdoors:
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2441122563/
 
 The technique is simply to prefocus on the jump, and then it's just a
 matter of timing. Keeping both eyes open helps. You can pick it up
 quickly, and any current DSLR with a 200 or 300mm kit lens should do
 fine. Depends on how close you can get, and how big or small the dogs
 are. That picture's from my K10D with Tamron 70-300 at 220mm; the
 dog's small (8 lb) but we were in our own yard and I could get close.
 
 But dogs running around in free play is a different matter. Forget
 Larry's first time, I still get few good shots after years of
 trying. The K10D autofocus just won't keep up with the dogs, at least
 not the fast sort that my wife favors. I know the newer models are
 significantly better, but whether they are good enough to lock on to
 a
 running dog, I cannot say.
 
 I recommend cats.
 
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Re: OT What was your first editing program

2011-04-18 Thread Jens
My first editing program was Micrografx Picture Publisher.
Still got the 7 and 8 version. Great stuff. Unfortunately Corel bought it just 
to kill it. It has a lot of nice features. Like the ability to aligning 
objects, and yiu can reverse any process even after saving the image. And it 
makes nice picture frames. I still use it from time to tima.

Jens

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On Apr 13, 2011 01:55 David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just a follow up to Bills, what was your first camera.
 My first photo edit program was Corel draw 5 i think it was. Just
 after my purchase of a Kodak DC25.
 
 Dave
 
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 Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
 www.caughtinmotion.com
 http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
 York Region, Ontario, Canada
 
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Re: What was your first camera?

2011-04-18 Thread Jens
Agfa Clack 1960. 
Later a Regula King (1970) with coupled meter. Even later - in 1981 - I gotr my 
first Pentax - a MX - still got a black one :-) MZ-S was my last film camera 
(still got one). First digtal was Sony 700 something. Later I got the *ist D, 
*ist DL andf a K10. I still got the K20D (lovely, capable camera - and a K-5 
(sold my K-7 to a friend recently). And I have a 
Pentacon Six with many lenses and I recently got a Pentax 67 with 4 lenses, a 
Pentax ES and a LX :-)

Regards
Jens
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On Apr 12, 2011 15:32 Bill Owens wmbow...@gmail.com wrote:
 In my case, it was a Brownie Hawkeye with flash that used Press 25
 bulbs
 Bill
 
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Re: Re: Re: Advice, Photgraphing dogs

2011-04-18 Thread Jens
My advice to my dog loving lady friend:
I ended up advicing her to buy a Pentax K-r and a DA* 50-135mm SDM lens.
This is available for 1500 Euros in Germany.

This combo cost the same as a Canon 7D, body only.

According to dpreview a Pentax K-r with an SDM lens is a decent choise for 
sports and wildlife photography on a budget. 

Regards
Jens

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On Apr 7, 2011 21:14 Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
 Thanks a lot , Matthew.
 Makes sence.
 Your last remark made me laugh out loud.
 If you don't mind, I'll forward your mail to her?
 
 Regards
 Jens
 
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 Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself.
 
 On Apr 7, 2011 19:20 Matthew Hunt m...@pobox.com wrote:
  On Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 12:43 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com
  wrote:
   Chances are that even most of the people on this list, which on
   average
   has pretty high photographic skills, wouldn't get great shots
   their
   first time
   taking photos of dogs in action.
  
  My wife competes in dog agility (in the role of the human), and
  it's
  not too hard to get good shots of that, at least outdoors:
  
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/coneslayer/2441122563/
  
  The technique is simply to prefocus on the jump, and then it's just
  a
  matter of timing. Keeping both eyes open helps. You can pick it up
  quickly, and any current DSLR with a 200 or 300mm kit lens should
  do
  fine. Depends on how close you can get, and how big or small the
  dogs
  are. That picture's from my K10D with Tamron 70-300 at 220mm; the
  dog's small (8 lb) but we were in our own yard and I could get
  close.
  
  But dogs running around in free play is a different matter.
  Forget
  Larry's first time, I still get few good shots after years of
  trying. The K10D autofocus just won't keep up with the dogs, at
  least
  not the fast sort that my wife favors. I know the newer models are
  significantly better, but whether they are good enough to lock on
  to
  a
  running dog, I cannot say.
  
  I recommend cats.
  
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Sunshine Story

2011-04-20 Thread Jens
Hello list
Just a small Pentax story from real life:

Yesterday I received a phonecall.
The guy at the other end said Hello, I am a homeless photographer.
It' turned out he was exclusivly photographing homeless people in the streets 
etc.
He just published a book called The Street Kings (Gadens Konger).
He had learned about me through the internet and wanted to ask me questions 
concerning Pentax equipment, which I have spoken highly of some time ago.

He wanted image stabilisation in the camera body, not in the lens.
He is a Canon user and wanted perhaps to change to using Pentax eqipment!!

He had a couple of D50's. I checket it out and found it did not have the TAv 
exposure program. 
He often got blurred images because of low light (he didin't actually realize 
the cause of this him self, but he thought that the problem was caused by a 
poor image stabilizer).

I told him to buy a K-r or a K-5 and use the TAv program. And of cource a 
decent SDM lens or two.I often doo this myself for casual shooting in changing 
light  conditions. These new Pentax bodies are able to go to high ISO values 
without to much quality loss due to digital noice/ high ISO. 


I don't remember how much Pentax gear I bought from people who wnated to change 
to C* or N* over my 30 years of using Pentax equipment - but it's quite a few 
bodies and lenses AFAIR.

This guy was dumping his Canon gear to get some new Petnax gear.

Not a bad choice in my opinion :-)

Regards
Jens
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Testing two teleconverters

2011-04-21 Thread Jens
Hello List
I got two good converters (and some not so good ones too)
I made a small test of the two good ones:

Sigma APO 1.4x with a focus screw driver
Pentax-F 1.7 AF converter - it makes my old MF lenses do AF.

Using two lenses:
Pentax FA* 2.8 80-200mm (IF) ED - for the Sigma converter - @ f56, 8, 11
and
Pentax-K 5.6 400mm - for the Pentax-F 1.7 AF converter - @ 5.6, 8, 11 

The the last picture - @ 680mm F11 is too large, clear and sharp to be legal to 
publish (since the subject is a Danish 500 kr note) - so I had to make a red 
cross on it before I was able to save it web optimized in Photoshop.

Please take a look:  
http://www.planfoto.dk/home/Webgallery/Weboptimrede/album/index.html

I am qiute pleased with the quality of the two convertes :-)

Regards
Jens

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OT: Sigma 170-500mm APO for Pentax AF

2010-09-11 Thread Jens
Hi list 
Does anyone have experiences with this lens, Please.
Regards
Jens 

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Re: Re: OT: Sigma 170-500mm APO for Pentax AF

2010-09-13 Thread Jens
Thans David and Adam. I'd apreciate samples to look at :-)
I might just get me one - they are quite affordable at the moment.
I alrady have a Sigma 135-400mm, which is NOT sharp enough for my needs. And 
it's gone take a while before a can afford a real Pentax long tele photo lens.

Regards
Jens

Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself.

On Sep 12, 2010 14:11 David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 6:57 PM, Adam Maas a...@mawz.ca wrote:
  Had one in Nikon mount, shot one airshow with it and the D300. It's
  long, cheap and not too crappy.
 
 I still have mine in Nikon mount. I find the long end a little to
 soft
 on the long end but yes not to bad.
 
 I have some shots on photo dot nre with it. I'll see if i can
 remember
 which ones and post
 
 Dave
 
  -Adam
 
  On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
  Hi list
  Does anyone have experiences with this lens, Please.
  Regards
  Jens
 
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Re: K7 with M lenses

2010-09-13 Thread Jens

I may be using my M lenses too little. But I have never noticed any exposure 
problems - except for those caused by the well known slow aperture syndrom, 
occuring when lenses are left unused for too long - or stored with open 
aperture blades (on a camera or otherwise).

I use a Seikanon wide angle macro lens quite often - which works like an M 
lens. It's an absolutely brilliant lens - which I believe is made by a company 
related to the later so well known Seiko brand. No exposure problems, that I 
know of. Razor sharp.

Regards
Jens  
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On Sep 13, 2010 19:02 Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've never really used an M lens on a Pentax digital, but I'm thinking
 about buying one.  I know the green button trick, but how well does it
 actually work?  Metering OK and all that?
 
 -- 
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Enablement: Pentax Optio W60

2010-09-13 Thread Jens
Hello List 
I just won an auction for a used (twice) Pentax Optio W60 at ebay.
www.dpreview.com has done a waterproof group test. The Optio W60 did pretty 
well. Excellent image quality, but no image stabilizer.
I paid about 1/3 the price of a new W90, which doesn't do so well at dpreview.
I need the camera for sea kayaking trips. I just killed my old Lumix mega zoom, 
which was just 4 MP, and not quite up to today's standards. The water killed it 
instantly, even though it didn't realy get under the water, but my bag got wet 
:-( 

Does anyone here have experiences with the Optio W60?
Thanks in advance :-)

Regards
Jens 

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Enablement: Pentax Optio W60

2010-09-13 Thread Jens
Hello List 
Done some Lumix shots:
See: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladt/sets/72157624699142377/


I just won an auction for a used (twice) Pentax Optio W60 at ebay.
www.dpreview.com has done a waterproof group test. The Optio W60 did pretty 
well. Excellent image quality, but no image stabilizer.
I paid about 1/3 the price of a new W90, which doesn't do so well at dpreview.
I need the camera for sea kayaking trips. I just killed my old Lumix mega zoom, 
which was just 4 MP, and not quite up to today's standards. The water killed it 
instantly, even though it didn't realy get under the water, but my bag got wet 
:-( 

Does anyone here have experiences with the Optio W60?
Thanks in advance :-)

Regards
Jens 

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Re: Re: Re: OT: Sigma 170-500mm APO for Pentax AF

2010-09-14 Thread Jens
Thanks guys, very interesting to se pictures actually shot with this lens.
Regards
Jens

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On Sep 14, 2010 00:21 David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here is the only one i could find on ther net.
 http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=10901470
 
 D200 with the 170-500 at 500. No tripod, but resting camera and lens
 on the truck door, some shake though.
 
 To me its soft.
 
 I have some of ducks at the farm, i just need to find them
 
 Dave
 
 On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 5:57 PM, Adam Maas a...@mawz.ca wrote:
  Here's a couple (on flickr)
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mawz/2769227796/
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mawz/2816747552/
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/mawz/2820590948/
 
  -Adam
 
  On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 2:29 PM, Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
  Thans David and Adam. I'd apreciate samples to look at :-)
  I might just get me one - they are quite affordable at the moment.
  I alrady have a Sigma 135-400mm, which is NOT sharp enough for my
  needs. And it's gone take a while before a can afford a real Pentax
  long tele photo lens.
 
  Regards
  Jens
 
  Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself.
 
  On Sep 12, 2010 14:11 David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com
  wrote:
  On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 6:57 PM, Adam Maas a...@mawz.ca wrote:
   Had one in Nikon mount, shot one airshow with it and the D300.
   It's
   long, cheap and not too crappy.
 
  I still have mine in Nikon mount. I find the long end a little to
  soft
  on the long end but yes not to bad.
 
  I have some shots on photo dot nre with it. I'll see if i can
  remember
  which ones and post
 
  Dave
  
   -Adam
  
   On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 5:00 PM, Jens p...@planfoto.dk wrote:
   Hi list
   Does anyone have experiences with this lens, Please.
   Regards
   Jens
  
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Best choice of super-tele-zomm.

2010-09-15 Thread Jens

I have an SMC FA* 2.8/80-200mm zoom lens, which is excellent.
Now I need to supplement my range with something like a 150-500mm zoom lens.
Before I search for a used lens I need to know what I should be looking for.
I use K20 and K-7 bodies and I want pro quality images.
My budget will be in the neighbourhood og 1000-1500 USD. 
Do you have any suggestions, based on experience?

Regards
Jens

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Enablement: Gear of the Year 2009

2010-09-15 Thread Jens

I received af Hähnel HWC433 C80 remote trigger for my K-7 and K20 today.
I's originally made for Canon cameras, but it comes with af cable(jack) for 
Pentax as well, so it works with my Pentax'es as well as with K10, K100, K200 
as well the Samsung GX10 and GX20.  

It can activate the AF function and the 2 sec. timer, which is nice for macro 
work.
I can use the trigger device (reciever) directly. It causes no vibrations to 
the camera body, due to the cable connection -  or I kan use the small 
transmitter, that has a telescopic antenna.

I tried to activate the camera from adistanace of perhaps 10m (30 feet), which 
worked just fine. 

The price tag is a little high here - about 100 USD. But it's worth it, I guess.

Now I can do family-dinner shots, that will include my self, for a change :-)
I just need to put the camera on a tripod in a suitable distance from the table 
- and then bring the small remote trigger with me. 

What I really want it for, is panorama shots from a very high tripod or 
monopod, in which case I can't actually reach the camera with my hands.

I guess I can recommend this nice, small, Irish made device.
Probably my gear of the year as well.

Regards
Jens   

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Re: Re: 645D to be marketed Worldwide in December

2010-09-24 Thread Jens
If I were a Taxi driver, I'd buy a 200.000 USD Mercedes. If I were a 
portrait/advertising photographer, I wouldn't hesitate buying a 645D. Afterall, 
10.000 USD is very reasonolable, if you want to make a decent living.  

Regards
Jens

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On Sep 24, 2010 06:42 John Celio n...@neovenator.com wrote:
 ? On 23/9/10, Mark Roberts, discombobulated, unleashed:
  
 The amount of fuss we're seeing on the Lisa (IOW, none at all) is
 pretty much what I'd expect regarding a $10,000 medium format
 camera.
  
  You're such a Mona when it comes to price
 
 A lot of us just don't have the Monet for something like that.
 
 John
 
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RE: Digital SLR

2002-10-28 Thread Jens Bladt
Great anecdote
BTW, no wonder Pentax DSLR's do not sell well in Canada. As far as I know,
there was never made *any*!
Regards
Jens

PS: None was sold in Europe either...


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Michael Nosal [mailto:mike.nosal;divine.com]
Sendt: 28. oktober 2002 17:24
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Digital SLR


At 09:13 AM 10/28/02 -0600, Dan Scott wrote:

Well, c'mon Brad. Current sales of Pentax DSLRs have been extremely poor.
You don't expect Pentax Cananda to import products that don't sell well,
do you? ;-)

Dan Scott

This reminds me of an anecdote, told by Harvey Mackay in one of his books,
which goes something like this:

There was a shoe company, and they wanted to expand their sales. They send
a salesman to the heart of Africa. After a couple of weeks, he writes back
to the head office: Business is terrible. Send me home. No luck at all.
The people here don't even wear shoes!

Well, the company decides to give it one more try, so they send their top
salesman to Africa. After a couple of weeks, he writes back to the head
office : Business is great! Send me more shoes. *No* competition at all!
Nobody here owns *any* shoes!

--Mike





RE: 35mm film scanners

2002-10-30 Thread Jens Bladt
Hallo Sylwek
I'd like to se those tests too!
Cheers
Jens, Denmark
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Sylwester Pietrzyk [mailto:sylwek;ozon.com.pl]
Sendt: 30. oktober 2002 14:32
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: 35mm film scanners


on 30.10.02 14:14, Pål Jensen at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Looking for a film scanner for 35mm. How about the Nikon LS-40 and the
Minolta
 Dimage scan Dual II and Dimage dual scan III (the two Minolta scanners
cost
 the same - whats the difference between them?)?
 How do these scanners compare to the Nikon LS-4000 (too expensive). Will
they
 give credit for the Epson 2100 (2200 US) printer?
 Plan of using the new 3200DPI Epson flatbed scanner for MF.

I think LS-40 is the best of them three. But new Minolta can be interesting
too. Dual Scan III has Minolta's equivalents of Digital ICE3, USB 2.0 and
better D/A converter (48 bit - they claim it gives D=4.8 - don't believe it
:-).
If you want exact results I can send you PDF file with results of big test
made in German Color Foto magazine. Big suprise is that not all scanners has
real resolution as it is claimed by their makers...

--
Regards
Sylwek






RE: PZ-1 vs PZ-1p little used features (was Newby)

2002-11-01 Thread Jens Bladt
Hi Paul and all
I like the idea of using an interval timer for photographing a flower
unfolding or growing - something like that. But i nerver used the one on my
PZ-1 (PZ-1p doesn't have it). But, I have a Jessop Power Winder (Model
P-1TR) works with my Super A and P5 and can be used with ME as well.  It
works pretty much like the MEII-winder, even though it's not Pentax quality.
It has a timer. Not as advanced, but still a timer. You can choose between
5, 30, 60 secs or 5 minutes. And is has a socket for remote (cord) control.
Thought you might want to know...
Best Regards
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Shaun Canning [mailto:s.canning;latrobe.edu.au]
Sendt: 1. november 2002 03:32
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: RE: PZ-1 vs PZ-1p little used features (was Newby)


Paul,

Go to the Pentax website (pentax.com) and download the brochures for the z-1
or pz-1. This will explain how to access the intervalometer feature of these
cameras.

Cheers

Shaun Canning
PhD Student
Archaeology Department
La Trobe University, Bundoora,
Australia, 3086.

e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 0414-967 644

-Original Message-
From: Paul Jones [mailto:pdml;nrg666.com]
Sent: Friday, 1 November 2002 01:05
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: PZ-1 vs PZ-1p little used features (was Newby)

Hi Bob,

How do you access the intervil timer option? or is a seperateattachment like
the cable release for the MZ-S?

Thanks,
Paul
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2002 12:21 PM
Subject: PZ-1 vs PZ-1p little used features (was Newby)


 Vic,

 The item I think most of is the interval timer.  This was a derivative of
a
 special stand alone unit for the MX and it became an expensive (US$160+)
back
 for the SF-1/SF-1n.  It allows you to set a future start time plus an
 interval and take a set number of pictures.  Put your camera on a tripod
and
 take a picture every hour for the next 36 hours.  Set the interval to 5
 minutes and take 30 pictures over the next 2 1/2 hours of the party.

 The other thing I remember is green or tyro mode.  The PZ-1 becomes a PS.
 Here you can be set up with a program AE line for landscape, action
(faster
 speeds), or best MTF function for the lens.  It kind of reminds me of the
 P5/P50 interface.

 Regards,  Bob S.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  Bob: Would you like to share these with us... It's always good to tap
into
  other members' knowledge base...
  Vic


  In a message dated 10/30/02 6:29:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   I've used the PZ-1 more and know all of it's little used features.
 





RE: Pentax-A* 200 f/2.8

2002-11-02 Thread Jens Bladt
German Fotomagazin makes a FOMAG Liste with estimated price of most
photographic equipment.
The FA*2.8/200 is supposed to cost 610 Euros/USD, the A*4.0/300mm about 700
Euro/USD, the FA* 2.8/300 about 2500 Euro/USD (no listing for the A*
2.8/200mm). But shouldn't it be in the nieghbourhood of 600 Euros/USD
Regards
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Paul Stenquist [mailto:pnstenquist;comcast.net]
Sendt: 2. november 2002 13:14
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Pentax-A* 200 f/2.8


I don't know what it's worth, but I do know that KEH prices are
consistently quite fair. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. And
congratulations on the acquisition. I wish I had one.
Paul

Glen O'Neal wrote:

 I picked up a Pentax-A* 200 f/2.8 lens yesterday from KEH. It should
arrive
 on Monday or Tuesday. I was pretty happy to get this lens.  With comments
on
 Stan Halpin's page like those that follow I thought it would probably be a
 good investment.

 Mike Breen - The 200 f/2.8A is probably as good as any fixed focus 200mm
 lens made.. . . . It is sharp corner-to-corner wide open yielding contrast
I
 can depend upon. . .

 Aaron - . . . I adore this lens. I use it primarily in low to very low
light
 . . . Great contrast, . . .

 What I am asking from my brethren here at the PDML is what do you think
this
 lens is worth. I would rather not broadcast what I paid for it. If I paid
 too much I may be embarrassed. If I got it for a song I might seem to be
 bragging. I do not desire either. I just want to find out if I got a
decent
 deal or not. I have not ever seen one of these 200mm green star lenses for
 sale anywhere before and really have no idea what the general consensus is
 as to its worth. I know, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for
 it. But please tell me what you think as a general guestimate. I would
 appreciate it.

 P.S. If you really want to know what I paid for it I would agree to tell
you
 off list if you keep it to yourself.

 Thanks,
 Glen O'Neal





SV: Pentax-A* 85 f/1.4 Pentax-A* 135 f/1.8

2002-11-02 Thread Jens Bladt
BH has a A1.4/85mm for 750 USD. It doesn't say Star, though...
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: Bob Blakely [mailto:Bob;Blakely.com]
Sendt: 2. november 2002 16:43
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Pentax-A* 85 f/1.4  Pentax-A* 135 f/1.8


I haven't seen an A* 85 1.4 on KEH in a long time, Though they do have
several FA* 85 1.4's somewhere around the price you mention. An A* 85 1.4
can go for more than $900.

From: Glen O'Neal [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 By the way, I remember Shel. Haven't seen him on here in a while. KEH
offers
 $480.00 for a A* 85 1.4 in Excellent Condition and I am going to check the
 135mm.




RE: architectural lenses

2002-11-02 Thread Jens Bladt
Hello
I'm sure I have seen Kiev shift lens that can be used for Pentax. They are
probably called Arsat. I think a Carl Ziess Jena was made for Exa M42 Exakta
Ihagee).
Theres an Arsat on ebay right now (Buy it now for 239.50 USD):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1392801420

Otherwise I can recomend SMC Pentax SHIFT 3.5/28mm (Preset lens).
But you don't have to use a shift lens for architecture. I use I the SMCA
2.8/20mm a lot.
You can pick it up for about the same price.
Regards
Jens


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: gfen [mailto:gfen;infotainment.org]
Sendt: 2. november 2002 17:02
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: architectural lenses


On Sat, 2 Nov 2002, Robert Soames Wetmore wrote:
 I am becoming increasingly interested in architectural photography and am
 again seeking recommendations for wide angle and especially tilt-shift
 lenses: Pentax lenses and various branded lenses for Pentax cameras, as
well
 as lenses for other-branded cameras.  Can anyone advise?

Does Kiev make a PCS lens for M42? It seems likely they would... however,
if you want the ultimate in movements, you're not even in the right
ballpark with 35mm, you need a view camera. You can probably find a cheap,
but heavy, Calumet Cadet with an acceptable lens for less than you could
buy a Pentax PCS.



--
http://www.infotainment.org   - more fun than a poke in your eye.
http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.




RE: Digital is here. Film production to be stopped!

2001-01-06 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
We seem to be forgetting, that most of us live our lives in the worlds most
advanced countries.
A lot of people in other parts of the world don't have refrigeratores, cars,
telvisions, computers So, when will everybody get a computer as well as
a digital camera? A classic PS camera can be purchased for maybe 20-30$. A
film for 3-5$. Bottom line is: I'm sure some company will make film for many
years to come. Don't dump your LX'es and MZ's just yet...
Best Regards
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Len Paris
Sendt: 6. januar 2001 17:28
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: RE: Digital is here. Film production to be stopped!




 The world's conversion is happening faster than I
 thought. Ya'll saving for
 that 6 mega pixel beastie?

 Regards,
 Bob...

I sure am, but not fast enough to be able to buy one when it
reaches the shelves.  I'm hoping that prices will drop over time
and my savings will eventually reach the point where I can buy a
camera like that. The chances are very good that, by the time I
have enough money saved, digital cameras will be even better and
cheaper than the 6 Mega-pixel model Pentax announced.

Len
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SV: just talked to Pentax ...(about the MZ-S)

2001-01-16 Thread Jens Bladt

Well, aren't we all...
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Alan Chan
Sendt: 16. januar 2001 04:46
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: just talked to Pentax ...(about the MZ-S)


Of course. To my knowledge, nobody identifying themselves as from Pentax
ever appeared on the list == they wouldn't have dared to. g

Perhaps we can start guessing who is/are working for Pentax...

regards,
Alan Chan

_
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SV: Ideal body for Auto Bellows A?

2001-01-19 Thread Jens Bladt

I use Super A and PZ1. The Super A only has full stops
compensation/correction. The Z1/Z1-p and the LX has 1/3 step correction, I
think. That makes them more suitable for bellows I think.
Best Regards
Jens
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Dan Scott
Sendt: 18. januar 2001 15:58
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Ideal body for Auto Bellows A?


What would be the soul mate for Pentax's Auto Bellows A?

Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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SV: taking the plunge to BW, need advice

2001-01-21 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Good luck Erwin!
Beware of faulty contrast correction caused by XP2 or similar films, as they
tend to get a pinkish cast, which makes them work something like
contrast-control filters (like Ilford Multigrade).. Ask for a film type with
no or little purple cast...! I use Ilford Multigrade papers/filters - the
results are so brilliant I never considered to use anything else. You can of
cource get traditional film developed at the lab too...!
Best Regards
Jens

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SV: Pz-1p Panorama Mode

2001-01-22 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Amazing. Who did that?
BR
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Frank Knapik
Sendt: 22. januar 2001 22:07
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Pz-1p Panorama Mode


Hello. I took some pictures with the panorama mode on and when the photos
came back, I was surprised when they where printed
31/2"x10". I thought they were going to be printed 4x6 with black strips.
The ones taken without the panorama mode on were printed 4x6. I think it is
a nice feature to have for a different look.

Francis

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SV: OT: (Somewhat) Is this true for you?

2001-01-23 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi All
One lens in the bag? That would be a 24-90mm (if I had one).
One prime lens in the bag? That would be the 20mm (or 15mm if I had one).
Wide angle pictures (rectiliniar) can be enlarged to telephote perspective.
The opposite is imposible.
Best Regards
Jens


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SV: Family vacation with children

2001-01-23 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi All
It really helps when then childre (mine) are 25 and 22 years :-)
Seriously, It's great to have grown up kids!
Lenses, I take:
20mm/2.8
50mm/1.4
28-70mm/2.8 (24-90mm when I get one)
70-210mm/4-5.6

Bets Regards
Jens
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af John Francis
Sendt: 23. januar 2001 20:43
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Family vacation with children



If you've got children along, is it really a vacation?

Perhaps 'vacation *for* children' would be a better description.

--
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
Hello.   My name is Darth Vader.   I am your father.   Prepare to die.
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SV: F 70-210 lenses

2001-01-23 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Frantisec
I've tested this /F70-210mm/4-5.6 systematicly. It's eqaully very good at
ALL focal lengths
and ALL apertures! That's what makes it special.
Best Regards
Jens

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RE: battery life in PZ-1

2001-01-27 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Gaurav
Welcome to the list. NICE CHOISE OF CAMERA
No, 7-8 rolls is fine. As you use the flash much. YOUR CAMERA IS NOT
DEFECTIVE. The trick is not to use it too much. I used up a lot of batteries
when my PZ-1 was new. I guess you play a lot with it :-). Try to use it only
for fill in purposes. Today I'm changing the battery 4-6 times a year. (I
shoot hundreds of rolls) I always carry a spare or two. Try to order ten or
more from a mail order company - or surf the internet  - you'll find a good
bargain somewhere.
Someone actually has made a homemade battery adaptor (It's not made by
Pentax, I think). Unfortunatly I don't think the old PDML threads are
available anymore, I'm afraid. I don't think NiCads can be used.

Best Regards
Jens


hi!

i subscribed to this mailing list today after reading quite a few posts
on pdml.net. i am just a beginner in photography and hope to gain from
the discussions on this forum.

i bought a used PZ-1 and now realize that the 2CR5 battery lasted only
about 7-8 rolls. isnt that too less? i didn't use the flash on more
than 15-20% of the shots. am i doing something wrong? or was the
battery little drained when i bought it?

my other question is, has anyone actually built some kind of adapter
that uses AA batteries? i was thinking of making a very small hole in
the battery cover to pass the wires and then hanging 4 batteries at
the bottom somehow. does anyone have any concrete ideas on how to
hold the batteries at the bottom and make sure that the contacts are
made inside the battery compartment? would soldering wires to an old
battery contacts do the trick?

thanks in advance!!
gaurav



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SV: F 70-210 lenses

2001-01-28 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Dave
Yeah, and 10 pints of Murphy's would probably do the samme :-).
(Assuming you are Irish).
Jens (Denmark, 
Birthplace of of Carlsberg)



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RE: Wide-angle lenses on bellows/tubes

2001-01-29 Thread Jens Bladt

HI Scott and all
I'm not an expert. But I think the explanation is very, very simple. The
close up table has a subtitle: (Use of lenses in normal position). Now, why
would yuo want to use a wide angle in normal position? It woun't enlarge
much (if anything).
You'll find the wide angles (28mm-40mm) in the "Use of lenses in reverse
position" tables. The wide angles will enlarge more in reverse than the 50mm
lenses.
Best regards
Jens
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Wieland Willker
Sendt: 29. januar 2001 16:13
Til: Pentax-list-NEW
Emne: Wide-angle lenses on bellows/tubes


Dan Scott wrote:
 From the Special Notes section of the Auto Bellows-A Slide Copier-A
 manual:
 1.  The wide-angle lenses up to 35mm and the 40mm f/2.8 lens are
 excluded from the close-up tables. For such wide-angle lenses with short
 focal lenghts and high-speed lenses are not suited for close-up work of
 high magnification, unless they are used in reverse.

Can somebody exlain to me why? What happens and why is the reverse mode
better?

Best wishes
Wieland

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RE: Thanks - New Subscriber

2001-01-30 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Jim/James
Welcome to the list!
I do some theatre work too.
It would be nice if you could show me some of your shots?
It could do the same.
Best regards
Jens
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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SV: PASSED JCII stickers

2001-01-30 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Mark
 should I put them on the lenses I am reselling? Even on East
  German ones ;-) ?
What's with east german lenses???
Some of them (e.i. Carl Zeiss Jena) are among the best lense ever made!!
Jens

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RE: PZ1p and monolight

2001-02-03 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
It's true it could be dangerous to use old/un current flashes for this
camera. Anyway, please notice, that the shoe of the PZ-1 is slightly
different from the usual design. There has to be a small rectangular
"cut-away" in front of the metal plate, that goes into the camera hotshoe.
Regards
Jens



-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Joseph McAllister
Sendt: 3. februar 2001 19:45
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: PZ1p and monolight


On 02/01/2001 12:37, Tiger Moses opined:

At 10:50 AM 2/1/01 -0800, you wrote:
Can I use a simple hotshoe adapter with a PC
connection to plug in my Photogenic Medalight into my
PZ1?
Thanks,
Herbet.
Yes you can, but you can decrease the risk of damage to the Pentax by using
devices designed to protect the camera, Wein makes one.  I had to pay
around
$40 USD, but that would be better then repairing/replacing a camera!

For almost all my photography with my Photogenic Flashmaster setup
(antique) I use the Pentax IR Remote system on cameras that have a hot
shoe, or, like on my digital camera which has none, I tape a simple
remote flash sensor in front of the built in flash, covering the built in
flash in the process.

Note though: I have used the system directly on my LX and Bronica ETRsi,
and on some of my old lenses with shutters for my 8 x 10 Deardorf. Oh,
and the Speed Graphic too.

JoMac


JoMac, Imagineer with Camera


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SV: PZ1p and monolight

2001-02-03 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
It's true it could be dangerous to use old/un current flashes for this
camera. Anyway, please notice, that the shoe of the PZ-1 is slightly
different from the usual design. There has to be a small rectangular
"cut-away" in front of the metal plate, that goes into the camera hotshoe.
Regards
Jens



-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Joseph McAllister
Sendt: 3. februar 2001 19:45
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: PZ1p and monolight


On 02/01/2001 12:37, Tiger Moses opined:

At 10:50 AM 2/1/01 -0800, you wrote:
Can I use a simple hotshoe adapter with a PC
connection to plug in my Photogenic Medalight into my
PZ1?
Thanks,
Herbet.
Yes you can, but you can decrease the risk of damage to the Pentax by using
devices designed to protect the camera, Wein makes one.  I had to pay
around
$40 USD, but that would be better then repairing/replacing a camera!

For almost all my photography with my Photogenic Flashmaster setup
(antique) I use the Pentax IR Remote system on cameras that have a hot
shoe, or, like on my digital camera which has none, I tape a simple
remote flash sensor in front of the built in flash, covering the built in
flash in the process.

Note though: I have used the system directly on my LX and Bronica ETRsi,
and on some of my old lenses with shutters for my 8 x 10 Deardorf. Oh,
and the Speed Graphic too.

JoMac


JoMac, Imagineer with Camera


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SV: Tilt Shift lens for 35mm

2001-02-03 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi JJ
Yes, I have it.
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 3. februar 2001 22:08
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Tilt Shift lens for 35mm


Does anyone actually have a Pentax SMCP Tilt Shift 28mm f/3.5? I can't find
a picture of one anywhere (even the Pentax, BH, and Blue Book sites) and
I'm curious to know what they look like; also whether anyone who's used one
has an opinion about it (as in, worth USD 1200?).
Thanks.
JJ

J. John Cohen
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SV: Non-Pentax Non-Metz flash

2001-02-05 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Think I have been writing about Metz flashes more than once. I don't think
other brands are lousy at all! I just find Metz flashes to be very, very
good. My oldest, which I bought in 1981, still works like the first day. The
original Pentax flashes is extreemly well made too. It's a joy just to hold
a AF500 FTZ in your hand.
Jens

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SV: Time to buy an enlarger! Got a suggestion?

2001-02-05 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
In my lab they tell me that the results depend very much on the film
material used. But I guess that's too late now. Don't compromise like that.
Some new custumer might see them. Make the print the old fashioned way. You
woun't regret, eventhough your profit might be small!
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Sid Barras
Sendt: 5. februar 2001 06:24
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Time to buy an enlarger! Got a suggestion?


Hi,
Well, I've done my research in this one horse town, and it don't look
good for getting my extra large prints done by a commercial lab locally.
(I've got a buyer for some of my black and white scenics, but she wants
very large prints: 24x30 and beyond from 35mm negs!)

I have the option of trying the negs done in color chemistry. And I will
have that done tomorrow, just as a test, to see how they do. The guy at
the lab didn't sound real hopeful.

Do any of you guys (and gals) have any experience with printing B  W
negs on color paper, and then in color soup? (we're talking about
extreme enlargements, too.)

So I think that after this little experiment fails, I'll be shopping for
an enlarger to do up to 24 x 30 or thereabouts in my soon to be expanded
darkroom. I have one of those Beseler "Cadets" right now, so I know I
need a real one for something like this.

The digital route still has merits, but my research and my instinct
tells me I should hold off on this until I've made a few sales and have
"spread myself around". By then I should (hopefully) be able to charge
the kinds of prices needed to cover the much higher cost of "going
digiital" (and getting archival quality output-- I just don't trust the
durability of dye sublimation and especially inkjet-- not yet) . Some of
the figures I was quoted were breath-taking. (or breath stopping,
actually)


So: I'm sure everyone here (almost) has a favorite, and why you like it.

I need it to be sturdy enough to get those very large prints I've been
talking about. I am  using a condenser version now, should I consider a
dichro or variable contrast head? (I'm almost certain I won't be doing
any color work, now or in the future)
Cost is a consideration, but since this machine will (fingers crossed
here) be a business investment, I want something reliable, robust, and
able to do big prints, from 35mm and med. format negs. Maybe a large
format camera is in my future?

I will rebuild my darkroom around this enlarger, so compactness or lack
thereof is not too much of a consideration.

Well, any suggestions?

Thanks, as always for excellent advice.

Sid

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RE: A 35-70 f3.5-4.5 - comments?

2001-02-06 Thread Jens Bladt

HI
I have this lens. It's an OK consumer zoom.
But there is a lot of Barrel -/Pillow distortion (you can see it in the
viewfinder).
I too have asked the PDML group. It's nothing compared to the very sharp,
excellent (discontinued) FA 4.0/28-70mm! I use mine for travelling with my
Super A, when my Tokina 2.6-2.8 ATX PRO 28-70mm (which is allmost as sharp
as the FA4.0, if you believe "Photodo" tests) is too heavy or huge.
Regards
Jens


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RE: ZX-5n and accessories for sale

2001-02-07 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Ron
IMO there is no doubt. You should piece it out! This way more bidders will
participate.
For custumers who want a package deal, you might add to the description:
Please watch my other auctions.
Jens


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RE: OT: Canon fast lenses (was: Re[2]: AdaptAll?)

2001-02-07 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
F1.0. Canon has made a 50mm f1.0. I saw (and handeled) a used one for sale
for 2,400$ (half of a new one). They say it's not especially good.
Jens

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Remote (was: Geography query)

2001-02-07 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
Photography is an interesting subject. Let's just stick to that, please.
BTW: I think there is a REMOTE possibility that the name Pentax is a
"remote" brand in most peoples eyes. If we were to ask people in the steets
all over the world, to name three camera brands, a very small percentage
would include Pentax.
They would probably remember theese Japanese brands best: Nikon, Canon,
Minolta? Maybe some would even remeber some European brands like Leica,
Rollei or Hasselblad! Well, so much for geography, and remote countries, as
far as cameras are concerned!

Best Regards
Jens
Denmark
Which, BTW lies somewhere between Gteborg (Hasselblad) and Germany (Leica,
Rollei)

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RE: Focus Rails

2001-02-07 Thread Jens Bladt




Hi Dave
Very interesting. Like belloews 
with fixed magnification, right?
I never saw such a gizmo. You 
might look for some tripod company, like www.manfrotto.com or www.gitzo.com
Good luck/let us 
know
Jens



RE: Wanted Super A plate and advice

2001-02-08 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Mine is missing the cover too. I had a ME Super once. It had the cover.
Since the same winder can be used fot both cameras, the cover must be the
same. You might get a cover for a ME Super instead.
Best Regards
Jens



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RE: New user

2001-02-09 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Donna
Welcome to the group!
Most Pentax accessories will fit the MX as well as other K-mount Pentax
cameras. All lenses with K-bayonet i.e. A few specieal accessories were made
for the MX. Different screens for the viewfinder and the MX-Winder. Take a
look at Boz's site: www.phred.org/pentax/k/
God luck!
Best Regards,
Jens

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RE: Cheap zoom wide-angle

2001-02-09 Thread Jens Bladt




Hi Eduardo
The following values are from FotoMagazin tests. The Tokina zoom AT-X AF 
PRO 20-35mm is rated 8.6 (optics)
And it's still very expensive 
(1000$). The Voigtlnder 19-35mm is rated the same, but cost just one 
quarter (250$). Sigma 17-35mm EX AF is rated 8.4 and costs 775$. Pentax 
FA20-35mm/4.0 is rated 9.6 and cost 650$. (compared with - Nikkor AF D 
3.5-4.5 /18-35mm is rated 9.0 at 700$). I don't know about Phoenix. IMO Pentax 
(or Voigtlnder) gives you the best value for money in this focal 
range.
Best 
Regards
Jens 








RE: filmy desicion...nice title hun?

2001-02-09 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Brent
I'm not quite sure which films you are refering too. But Im sure they are
too slow for many things/no tripod:
If you are not too experienced you should not shoot proffessional film,
since they must be exposed very, very accurate and stored at low/sertain
temperatures. Use a good rugged, slide film like Fuji Sensia or Kodak Elite.
(This advice was given to me by two pro photographers, who had just crossed
Africa (Cairo-CapeTown) on motorbikes). If you're out for wild life, use
fast film, because the animals are the most active at sundown, not during
the daytime. I just spent three weeks in South Africa (december/summertime).
I only brought 100ASA film. I had to have some of them pushed to 400ASA,
loosing sharpness. Even 400ASA is too slow for some lenses. Bring some
400ASA and even faster film. Use FAST lenses. Go for lenses like 1.4-2.8.
Zooms like 3.5-5.6 you should leave at home, but bring a PS camera with
with a zoom, loaded with print film for the "family album".
Good luck!
Jens


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RE: OT: Ilford film choice

2001-02-09 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Tom
Sorry - I should have said:   .over exposure reduces contrast.
Jens

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RE: OT: Ilford film choice

2001-02-10 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Tom
I can't help wondering if your problem lies in developing, rather than
printing. Your cat pictures have very high contast. One way of dealing with
this is to stop development halfway through. Exchange the developer with
plain water for a few minutes. Then exchange the water with thr developer
again and proceed as if nothing has happened. This procedure will reduce the
contrast and make printing easy (normal).
Best Regards
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af tom
Sendt: 10. februar 2001 04:37
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: OT: Ilford film choice


Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 Maybe I can learn something from your problems. At what EI do
 you expose Delta 100, and under what lighting conditions?  What
 developer have you used?  Time/temp/agitation?

I shot these back before I had a darkroom or was doing my own
processing, so these are all (3 rolls?) at EI 100, souped in TMAX, which
is what my lab used for everything.

The *one* beautiful neg I was talking about was shot in diffuse lighting
conditions, and this is the neg that got me thinking I should try and
work with this stuff.

Last week I shot a 'test' roll - basically pictures of my cat (just
about perfectly 18% gray), heavily backlit. I shot at 100, souped in
FX39 at 1:19 for 16.5 minutes. 1:19 is a fairly dilute for FX-39, so I
was hoping for a little compensation. The backlit areas were pretty well
blown out...there's a bit of detail, but maybe beyond my abilities to
print.

Paterson gives 2 times for development for each film, one for a .57
curve, one for .7. 16.5 minutes is about in-between. I'll probably dial
it down to 14 minutes next time.

I also plan to try XTOL...Aaron has been spazzing about Studional, so I
may try that too, since it seems to be pretty versatile.

Some people (Mike? ;) ) may think all this fiddling around is futile,
but I find it to be kind of fun.

tv
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RE: OT: Ilford film choice

2001-02-10 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Shel
I forgot to mention, that I think that by just reducing dev. time, as
suggested, you will just get a weaker negative, not more "colour" in the
shadows (on the contrary).
The cat pictures are indeed very difficut, as for most back lit scenes, the
contast in the main subject tends to be rather low (often considered somehow
charming). It seems Tom wants both - detailed, printable higlights
behind/above the cat as well as god contrast and a lot of tones, drawing the
fur of the the cat. He might use a white screen (fill in) to brighten the
subject next time. He might also consider printing the diffent parts of the
picture using diffenrent multigrade filters. It can be done. "Fine printers"
do this alot, so I've read. Buttom line is, that a "perfect" negative
allways seems to be the best way to get great prints, isn't it?
Jens

Jens Bladt wrote:

 I can't help wondering if your problem lies in developing, rather than
 printing. Your cat pictures have very high contast. One way of dealing
with
 this is to stop development halfway through. Exchange the developer with
 plain water for a few minutes. Then exchange the water with thr developer
 again and proceed as if nothing has happened. This procedure will reduce
the
 contrast and make printing easy (normal).

Hi, Jens ...

I've never heard of such a technique, and I'd be concerned that
it wouldn't be repeatable.  A better approach would be to just
cut back on development time, adjust the agitation, or a
combination of both.   What's the advantage of your technique?
Where'd you learn it?
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: OT: Ilford film choice

2001-02-10 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Mike
It is true, that many great photographs origin in the concept of controling
the whole process: Exposure, film, development, printing.
Where can we find this program by Phil Davis?
Jens


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SV: OT OT OT OT OT Re: Goup Project

2001-02-10 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
God I hate this thread!
Did you know that a lot (a lot!) of the people living in America (North or
South) are really from Europe, Africa or Asia not many generations ago!
Please consentrate On Topic: Pentax/photography!

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Peter Alling
Sendt: 10. februar 2001 20:13
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: OT OT OT OT OT Re: Goup Project



--- "JeffW." [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 on 2/9/01 10:31 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 
  Gee, I thought you were a rebellious province of
 Mexico before we
  took
  you in.
 
  Bob
  -
 No, we were an independant Republic. And the treaty
 gave Texas the right to

I think that view depends on weather you are Mexican
or not.

 split into up to 5 states. Now wouldn't that make
 everybody in Oklahoma and
 all the yankees mad!

 JeffW.

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RE: News from PMA - MZ-S and other stuff

2001-02-11 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
The 1st Z1 only gave 2fps. Maybe there will be a MZ-Sn in a couple of years!
This wouldn't be the first time (ME-Super,SFXn,MZ5-n)
Jens


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RE: OT: Ilford film choice

2001-02-11 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Mike
Mike wrote:
Well, okay, but reemmber you _have_ to get the test negs developed to the
same CI, and you _have_ to use a densitometer to confirm this--the results
are meaningless if you just do it by eye and don't match contrast.

I have no doubt that the difference will not have to be measured, but can
easily be detected by the human eye. (I allways use mine to judge a picture,
anyway).

Jens



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SV: News from PMA - MZ-S and other stuff

2001-02-11 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Tom and all
The question (big decision) for me is: When will high quality digital
cameras (10-20MP) be possible and affordable (1000-2000$)? Untill then I'll
use 24x36mm Pentax cameras as well as 6x6.
Jens

My big decision sometime in the future is: do I get a 67II or a 645.  The
obvious advantages to the 645 are the AF and the data imprinting (to me at
least).  On the other hand, the 67II has a much larger frame size than the
645 , which is the major reason for going to medium-format to begin with...
so...

Tom



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SV: 100 ISO @ 800! Help needed

2001-02-11 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Gianfranco
If I were You (believe me, I've been there) I'd contact Fuji and ask if they
can push it three stops.
Regards
Jens


Hi everybody,
There are times - very few times - when I hate my LX... and myself.
I was taking pictures of a session of rehearsal with my LX and Z-1p, both
with
T-MAX 400 and the metering set to 800; when the film in the LX went over, I
loaded the camera with a roll of Fuji Neopan, certain that it was a Neopan
400...
Well, it wasn't.
It is a Neopan 100, and now I wonder what can be done to have the film
acceptably developed.
Anybody has experiences of this kind to share?
Thanks in advance,

Gianfranco


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RE: MZ-S viewfinder magnification

2001-02-13 Thread Jens Bladt

Hello Mafud
True, I agree.
I myself tend to shoot an increasing ammount of 6x6. I never really liked
square pictures. So, I use my Pentagon/Rolleiflex as if they were a 645,
that I don't need to turn to get portrait/landscape format.

I think I'd prefere 100% coverage. For some jobs it's nice to know what's in
the picture, and what is not.

The eyepoint discussion may be about glasses (Is it?). People who are
wearing glasses, want to be able to see the whole frame too. Very
understandable.

I believe some of the fuzz is about us wanting our "idol" camera to be
perfect! Even if we do not buy one, we want to be able to say: Look what
Pentax can do, isn't that great! (By the way, I own a Pentax too!). I don't
feel this way. If I did, I'd buy a Leica R8 or M6 (and probably leave it on
a shelf in an insured cupboard, while shooting whith my Pentax Z1p or,
hopefully, my brand new MZ-S).

Best Regards
Jens

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Pentax MZ-S makes sense

2001-02-13 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
A lot have been said. Sales figures will say even more..
I believe Pentax has seen the light! The 35mm SLR market is shrinking or
even dieing. PJ's will want digital cameras. Others want PS, digital PS or
Medium Format. Still it’s possible to market small, durable, nifty, capable
SLR’s for pro’s (other than the PJ’s) and for advanced amateurs/semi pro’s.
Building a huge F5-like 35mm SLR, that can do anything, can only be done
successfully if you already have A LOT of buyers that just need a new body -
e.i. Nikon/Canon. If Pentax did that, it would be suicide. Pentax reaches
the pro buyers through the 645n, the 67II and the new, small, durable, 6MP
full frame SLR (if they manage to market new lenses).

To me, the MZ-S makes perfect sense. If you guys need a “state of the art”
35mm SLR with lots of fast lenses to make a living, buy a Nikon or a Canon
like the rest. So, stop whining for crying out loud - and buy a 67II, a MZ-S
and the new digital twin. That's all you need.
Jens

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RE: Practisix IIa

2001-02-13 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Albano
Praktisix is an earlier (Nineteen Sixtees) type of Pentacon Six TL
(Maunufactured until 1996, I think).
I use Pentacon Six TL with two different viewfinders and Carl Zeiss Jena
lenses (4.0/50mm, 2.8/80mm and 2.8/120mm) Excellent lenses.
The camera has some peculiar "faults": You don't let the leaver slip  back
fast after advancing the film, you lead it slowly backwards. You never
activate the self timer when shutter is not cocked. You never advance the
film in several tempi (except when loading) - always use one continous
movement. Some cameras suffer from the "overlapping frames disease". The
Pentacon (Now makers of Exacta 66 with Schneider lenses) factory (Dresden,
Germany) still services these cameras. I got a new viewfinder screen and a
shutterspeed adjustment for apr. 100$.

The Multi Coated (MC) lenses are of course best. I would go for the latets
Pentacon Six TL if I were you.

I have some links for you, hope they work.
Please feel free to ask for more information.
If you are in the market for one look at ebay. A guy named "Cupog" has a lot
of P6 stuff up for sale.
Jens




 Die Pentacon SIX - Familie.url
 http--www.smu.edu-~rmonagha-mf-FAQexakta.txt.url
 Pentacon 6 TL SLR Medium Format Camera- Page One of Six  including Kiev 60 and Exakta 66 cameras.url
 PENTACON DRESDEN Kontaktaufnahme.url
 Praktisix-Pentacon Six the East German Medium Format System.url


RE: Pentax MZ-S makes sense

2001-02-14 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Tiger Moses
Good point. I think film will still be there for a long time. As long as a
lot of people uses their analog cameras. A lot of dealers are offering
prints made from digital camras. You can even post the files "on line" to
you local shop and receive your prints by snail mail.
Best Regards
Jens

Tiger Moses wrote:
:only one comment about the move to DIGITAL

Will people who don't use computers at home, want a digital camera at home,
thinking on a global scale!


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RE: Fasten seatbelts: MZ-S price!!

2001-02-15 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Price tag is not that importent.
I think I spent 10,000-20,000$ photographing during the last eight-nine
years (when I got the Z1). Hundreds of rolls, thousands of prints and
slides. 100$ more or less is of no importens what so ever, as long as we
enjoy working with the camera. The camera body is a small investment in the
"Total Picture"

Jens

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RE: Developing B/W Film w/ Mike J.

2001-02-15 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
I always use Paterson tanks. I have all sizes 1-5 rolls of 35mm film. In the
buttom of the tank is written how many ml of developer is required for 1, 2,
3, 4 or 5 rolls. I simply follow instructions (290ml/35mm roll - 500ml/120
roll). I use Ilford ID11, diluted 1+1 almost all the time. Of course I only
develop several rolls simultanously,  if they are exposed under similar
conditions. (Films exposed in hard light (flash, direct sun) should be
agitated less than fim exposed in diffused light).

I think it's a good idea not to experiment too much. Once you've found your
favorite developer, stick to it, get to really know it.

A small trick.:
Don't use tap water. Have clean water stored in a small container in the
darkroom. This way it's very easy/fast to get the temperature right!

Best Regards
Jens

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RE: OT: Help with lighting setup

2001-02-16 Thread Jens Bladt

Hello Richard
Sorry - Vicatec (Broncolor) comes from Switzerland, not France.
Take a look here: http://www.visatec.com/visatec/light/frame.htm

Jens



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RE: Subject: MZ-S spirit (was: MZ-S with LX durability?)

2001-02-17 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Pl and all
Pl wrote:
"During the 90's we have almost only seen utterly vision-free cameras.
The MZ-S does indeed have direction. Its a strong statement in design and
features. Its equally strong statement as the MZ-5 was back in '95. Of
course it won't suit all but neither does a camera along the lines of the
EOS3 or the Z-1p; these cameras are compromised because they try do
everything with danger of not doing anything particularly good."

Except for your statement concerning the Z1-p, I think you've got that just
right!
(I still think PZ-1p's only serious draw back is the outdated AF) The design
philosophy and ergonomic layout are - I believe - my reasons for using
Pentax - as wellas the good glass, of course. Just think of the lens mount
button, placed at the tip of the left hands second finger.
I hope the MZ-S is even more ergonomic and photographer oriented than the
Z1-p. I'm thinking of things like this:

- Flash programs should leave the photographer in control of shutter speeds,
- A flash should not out rule Pentax Functions,
- Pentax Functions should not be substitutes for motive-programs, but
strictly designed for personal adjustments (like leaving the film leader
inside/outside, or adjusting ASA automatically/manually etc.).

(BTW, IMO motive-programs like “Action”, “Macro”, “Portrait”, “Landscape”
should not be present in a professional camera. After all, a photographer
knows what to do in different situations!)

Best Regards
Jens


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RE: MZ-S 1/2 stop vs. 1/3 stop

2001-02-18 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Judging from the pics, it's pretty obvious, that you can choose between
bracketing in half or whole stops, dependig on which way you turn the dial.
I guess you can put the "center picture" (on measurement) anywhere it goes
within the interval of correction. Since very few people use the German
scale "DIN" instead of "ASA", 1/3 steps are considered "outdated", I guess.
(1/3 step equals one DIN). I like the Z1-p bracketing feature, though. Ir
also allows, let's say 1.67 stops between exposures. I guess Pentax wants to
get rid of the mode/menu/select type of handeling and make things more
"analog" or "retro", which is coresponding well with the "MZ" philosophy.
Jens

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Waterbath (Was: Ilford Film choise)

2001-02-18 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi all
A few days ago the was a thread on this list about Ilford film and
developing.
I suggested that if development were interrupted by a waterbath, the negs
would turn out softer/come out with less contrast. I promised to do some
tests. I have done just that.

I shot 24 frames (of white cups, backlit), exposing an Ilford FP4+ at 125
ASA by 1/180 sec./F8. I developed in ID11 1+1 for 7 minutes, 21 degrees
Celsius.
I cut the film in half. One half was developed normally. The development of
other half was interupted after 4 minutes by a 3 minute waterbath, then
developed again for the last 3 minutes. I have made prints, made exactly the
same way. Difference? Very small! Almost zero!

The normal negs have a little more density in the highlights (which was
expected).
By measuring the exact same place (darksest part of neg), I found that the
exposure value (time) was 10% larger for the "normal" neg. In the brightest
part of the negs, the exposure value was the same (naturally, since the film
have no tone in the brightest parts).
So, even though the "normal" negs were developed shorter time (no 3 minute
waterbath/very, very thin solution), the density in the highlights is
higher.
So it seems like the waterbath works. But the difference is very small.
Measurable? Yes! Visible?Hardly! (I guess developing in stock solution will
show a larger difference).
To reduce contrast, I think it's more effecient to over expose and under
develop. To control the hightlights, as someone put it, we should not over
develop (and perhaps don't use stock solution), and of course not over
agitate.

Best Regards,
Jens

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RE: TTL PENTAX camera bodies

2001-02-19 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
TTL-flash means that the CAMERA, not the FLASH controls the flash duration -
with a dedicated flash. To do so, the camera must have a measuring device
somewhere inside - to be able to measure Throught The Lens, right?
Super-A/Super Program does. LX does. Only high end cameras does. I found out
that PZ-1 also features TTL flash in Manual Mode, which is very useful! This
has nothing to do with focusing methods what so ever. Some N's have 3D
flash measuring, which means that the flash duration AOT depends on the
actual focus distance (I think), but that's another story.
Jens


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RE: PMA announcement reference to new lenses

2001-02-19 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Pl and others!
Of course Pentax will make new lenses. haven't the always?


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RE: PZ-1p

2001-02-19 Thread Jens Bladt

Thanks, Gianfranco!
HAMA's don't (I almost hate Hama products, anyway1)
Jens


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Gianfranco Irlanda
Sendt: 19. februar 2001 00:24
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: PZ-1p


Jens Bladt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 the camera hot-shoe
 does not accept standard hot-shoe adaptors. I had to make a small cut-away
 in the front of the "foot". How do you guys connect a studio flash?
 Jens

Hi Jens,
I usually use a Rowi adapter that fits nice in the hotshoe of all my cameras
without problems.

Gianfranco



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RE: Geography Poll General Results!

2001-02-20 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Chris
Great job!
BTW: Shouldn't "Japan" be Nipon?
Regards
Jens

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RE: Yashica TL Electro-X and Pentax Screwmount lenses

2001-02-20 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Mark
This Yashica was my first SLR. Nice camera except the fact that you measure
light with aperture shot down. I remember borrowing a Pentax screwmount 35mm
lens for it. So, they can be used allright. I still have pictures on my
wall, made with this combo. (I think the reason why I switched to Pentax are
theese pictures - they came out very nicely).
Best Regards
Jens

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RE: MZ-S hands on!

2001-02-21 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
The largest Digital PS Nikons (900 something) are also maganesium. It's
difficult to tell it's not plastic!
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Tom Rittenhouse
Sendt: 21. februar 2001 18:21
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: MZ-S hands on!


Well it sure is not bare metal.  I did not try to scratch it or
anything. The frame is magnesium.  But the covers don't feel
like it.  I got the impression you could hammer nails with the
thing, how rugged do you think a camera needs to be?


Paul C wrote:

 "The exterior is plastic but he swears that the frame is magnesium."

 Plastic? Are you sure? The press release talked of a "magnesium diecast
 material, which is lighter in weight than most other metals and more
durable
 than plastics or resins." I hope that it turns out to be metal, since that
 was one of the biggest selling points for me.



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RE: Ergonomics

2001-02-21 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
I don't totally disagree :-). The PZ1/PZ1-p are by fare my most used
cameras. I just like tho think the MZ-S is even better in this respect.
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af John Francis
Sendt: 20. februar 2001 22:52
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: Ergonomics


Jens Bladt wrote:

 Imagine setting the camera (a PZ-1p) to:
 HYP program
 Highspeed AE.
 Continuos filmadvance
 Manal Focus
 Centerweight/spot meetering
 1 stop + correction
 The "subject" will be long gone before your'e ready to even start
 shooting!!!
 I think this is one of the reasons why many of us still use "old" cameras.

It's a lot faster to set my PZ-1p that way than it is to set up my MX
or
Super Program to do the same thing . . .

And it's a heck of a lot faster for me to grab my PZ-1p and get a shot
of something unexpected than it is for me to do it with my MX;  by the
time I've adjusted the focus and the exposure, the "subject" is long gone.

I think this is one of the reasons why many of us use "new" cameras :-)

--
John Francis  [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Silicon Graphics, Inc.
(650)933-82952011 N. Shoreline Blvd. MS 43U-991
(650)932-0828 (Fax)  Mountain View, CA   94043-1389
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SV: Info on ME Super and K1000 needed

2001-02-22 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
These are both very nice cameras. If I were you, I'd consider a P30t as
well. This has Programed autoexposure as well. But IMO Super A/Program is
one of the finest cameras made by Pentax.
Jens


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RE: Camera Bag......

2001-02-24 Thread Jens Bladt

Hello Dosk
A lot of fine bags are available. I am especially fond of my LowePro
Reporter 300 AW. It,s approx. 100$ and you can buy small, aditional bags to
mount on it - for flashes, telephoto lenses, exposed film or whatever. It
also has two build-in rain coats - one at the top for just a little rain and
one heavy raincoat for showers. It's rather well made and not as expensive
as some other brands. It offers extreemly good value for money. I love mine
a lot.
Jens


-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af dosk
Sendt: 23. februar 2001 23:44
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Camera Bag..


Can anyone recommend a good camera bag that would be large enough (and small
enough) to carry, let's say, a PZ and a ZX body, along with 4 lenses? (I'm
leaving myself some room for future expansion here...)
Something less than $100??

All responses appreciated.
Dosk

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RE: TTL exp. with Z-1p , FTZ 500 and another flash ?

2001-02-24 Thread Jens Bladt

Hello Adrian
I've used several flashes simultaneously: It's always risky to use different
flashes that are differently  controled at the same time. Alin said that the
second flash is not controled by the camera. That's true, but the light from
the second flash may affect (control) the camera/camera flash (AF500FTZ) and
cause  the latter to give less light (the camera cuts off the flash duration
earlier than it would otherwise). I'm sure the measuring cell in the camera
can't tell from which flash the light came.
If the second flash is weaker than the AF500FTZ it may not ruin the total
exposure, it may just enlight other parts of the subject. If the second
flash is too powerfull, it will act as mainlight, while the camera flash
will act as fill-in. I have often used two flashes this way: The lagest
flash bounced off the ceiling, the smaller flash directly at the subject.
This gives you a "softer" (not so sharp) more natural looking scene.
Best Regards
Jens


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RE: Tech'nal Questions for PZ1p owners....

2001-02-24 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
I think the value of the power zoom is often underestimated. As I'm working
as a technician (architect) I find it very usefull. The power zoom functions
allow me to photograph many different objects - like a door handle, a window
hinge etc. so that all the shots will come out in the same measure. This is
really nice for documentary work, for reports etc.
Jens

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RE: Z-1p TTL flash question

2001-02-25 Thread Jens Bladt

Hello
It's not quite that simple.
I have done some tests. When a dedicated flash is turned on, the PZ-1p
chooses an exposure, that consideres the ambient light. But it still chooses
an exposure that will undeerexpose the backgound a little: If you turn off
the flash, you'll se that it chooses an EV a little larger.
I have an SB mode on my dedicated Metz AF Spot Beam adaptor (which I BTW
also use with a Metz 45 CT4+converter). When I select the SB mode, the Z1-p
acts as if no flash was connected, allowing more exposure to the background.
I use this for "Slow Flash" (a feature that is missing on the Z1-p!!!???):
It means, that the shutter speed is determied by the ambient light, the
aperture by the flash (also known as "BBB" or "3B" = Blitz Besstimt Blende).
Translated to English it could be something like "FDA" - Flash Determins
Aperture).
How do you guys cheat the PZ1-p to do Slow Flash?
Jens

Len WROTE:
Hmmm.  I also have two flashes, an AF500FTZ and a Metz 45CT4
(with module and converter for full TTL).  I'll have to see what
happens.

What shutter speed does your PZ-1p select?  There's a Pentax
Function that tells the camera to either meter for ambient light
or set shutter speed at 1/250th.  I suspect that yours is set up
to meter for ambient and chooses 1/30th at f/2 in low light.

I'll try to set up the same conditions with my stuff.  I also
have a 43mm f/1.9 Ltd.

Len
---

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Alan Chan
 Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:36 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Z-1p TTL flash question


 I have never used TTL flash in program mode much so I
 have never paid much
 attention to this feature. Until yesterday, I have
 discovered the auto
 aperture would be set quite differently by two
 different flashes - Metz
 40MZ3i and Pentax AF200T. With the 40MZ3i, the chosen
 aperture was f2 while
 the AF200T chose f8. The lens was 43/1.9. Any idea why?

 regards,
 Alan Chan

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 ___
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RE: MZ-S Is It Worth It !

2001-02-25 Thread Jens Bladt




Hi Paul and all
I think the question should be: 
Are your pictures worth it? Are your lenses worth 
it?(!)
First:
Our slides and prints cost the same either you make them with a 
10$ PS or a 1000$ SLR. The cost of the camera is a smal percentage anyway 
(that is if you take more tahn just a few). 
All well known cameras are very good. It doesn't matter if it's a 
Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Leica, Contax, Sigma or Pentax. All of them can produce 
excellent pictures. It is done every day. What 
matters is that you like the product philosophy, the design, user interface, 
accessories, lenses, corperate policy etc., etc. Most Pentax cameras will last 
10, 20, 30 years. If you like Pentax gear - use it, buy it. A MZ-S will cost 
less than two colorprints a day! 
Second:
I think Pl has a point. If you allready own lenses worth 10 
times the cost of a the new body, it is good economic sense to upgrade the body 
once in a while. Buying a new body will not only increase the value of your 
lenses for you, but also the market value. (That's probably one of the reasons 
we all want Pentax to make a new killer body - even if we don't buy one. It will 
help sustain the market value of all our lenses and accessories in general). If 
no one is buying the new bodies, the value of our lenses will decrease rapidly 
(we can buy cheap lenses for a few years, but then 
what?)
If you don't like your Pentax lenses, don't wait for a new body to 
make up for it - change brand now! If you like them, buy a new body 
from time to time.
Third:
I think the MZ-S is going to be a succes. It completes the 
current, best selling MZ line-up. It improves the PZ-1p user interfase by 
simplifying some of the best PZ-1p features as well as adding others (like 6 
point AF). It has improved durability. It may not have the versatility of the LX 
or the PZ1-p but it will be a nice analog match to the new digital version. 

It's a compromise, yes. But isn't it a clever one? 

It is not what some of us hoped for - a new come-back to the 
35mm pro scene. Those days are gone, I'm afraid. The 
pro-scene is going to be digital and MF. But it sure is a nice 
gesture to all of us who like/use the 35mm lenses. It's an offer to 
those, who want to use the lenses for Full Frame Digital Photography. (It is 
also sustaining the 35mm lens market, in case the digital version doesn't sell). 
It's like a bridge (as well as an insurance) between history and the future. I 
still think the MZ-S makes perfect sence. I'll buy one, it'll be worth 
it!
Best Regards
Jens




RE: OT: Hasselblad

2001-02-27 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
I only have used (rented) Hassies a few times for pro work. I agree with
Mike - it's a tripod camera. I once brought a Hassie for air photography...
That was a mistake. To hard to handle.
For private purposes I use Pentacon Six, since I couldn't afford a Pentax
6x7. The Pentacon reminds me a little of the Pentax, because it's build like
a 35mm SLR. Just like Mike I'm not much of a 6x6 guy. I think of it as a
645, that hasn't got to be turned to do "portrait" or "landscape" photos. I
have even made a mask for the viewfinder that shows me a 1:1 format.
One thing is nice about 6x6, though: It's easy to get access to slide
projectors and enlargers that can do 6x6. I think it's difficult to get hold
of 6x7 projectors or enlargers, isn't it?.
Jens


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RE: AE vs A

2001-02-27 Thread Jens Bladt

Gabor wrote:
The Tamron's AE setting is the same as Pentax's A.
I think the problem is with your K adapter, it should be a KA
instead.


Hi Gabor
I have a Tamron lens with AE posstion. Would you suggest it works as "A"
with, let's say an Adaptall-2 mount - or what?
Jens






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SV: OT: Tokina 28-70 ATX-Pro 2.8 Opinions?

2001-02-27 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
Here it's aprox. 700$ new. I get got a discount and paid aprox. 525$.
It's an excellent lens.
Jens


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RE: MZ-S stincks ???

2001-02-28 Thread Jens Bladt

Pentax Clover wrote:
I do not understand How you can choose a speed on this MZ-S

As far as I understand, you simply turn the Select Dial. If the Aperture is
in A-position, the aperture will re adjust according to the program's
choise. If not, you'll be going in Manual (you choose exposure value). This
is exactly how PZ1-p works in HyP mode.

Jens


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RE: Delta 100 in ID-11

2001-03-02 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Shel
Sounds odd!
BTW I think ID11 is an excellent choise. It gives you better visible grain,
better than ILFOTEC HC (recommended by Ilford I think), which is very
dence/grainless.
Make shure you look at the right film. Ilford often gives you different
times for 35mm and 120/220 film. In my book it's 8 min (ID11 1+1, 20 degrees
C.). I think both film and developer is changed a little from time to time.
That could be the reason for the confusion.
Try to look at www.ilford.com
Best Regards
Jens


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RE: IF button on PZ-1p

2001-03-02 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
IF = Interactive Function
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Tiger Moses
Sendt: 2. marts 2001 16:10
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: IF button on PZ-1p


IF you look at my original post, its not the function I'm looking for but
what do the letters I F stand for. Why isn't it MR for MODE RETURN/METER
READ

At 10:44 PM 3/1/01 -0300, you wrote:
Tiger, go to the page 46 of the manual. It returns the camera to the Hyper
Programmed AE Mode.
If you are in Hyper Manual, depresing IF gives you the correct exposure.

HTH
Martin
-Original Message-
From: Tiger Moses [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thursday, March 01, 2001 6:10 PM
Subject: IF button on PZ-1p


Just curious, what does the IF actually stand for, dont see it anywhere in
the manual.

My guess is Instant something

I dont need to know what it does, I just want to know what IF stand for!

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RE: BW (push, bath)

2001-03-02 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi Frantisek
I, for one, was posting something about a waterbath intermezzo. I made some
tests.
I concluded, that it had an effect, but very small, measureable but hardly
visible.
Comming to think of it, I understand now, that the waterbath also means a
slight increase of the total developing time, resulting in the opposit
effect - more contrast. When using the waterbath - let's say for two
minutes - I increase the effective developing time with e.i. half a minute.
I should probably reduce the effective developing time (in working solution
developer) accordingly. I didn't.

Remember, taht the main issue, about reducing contrast, lies in exposure as
well as developing.
Please note:
Underexposure/overdevelop = more contrast.
Overexpose/underdevelop   = less contrast (less sharpness).

What you do when you push, is realy underexposing/overdeveloping, which
increases contrast.
An idea for you to try out, could be to "overexpose" a little. That is,
instead of setting the meter to e.i. 800 ASA, you could try to set the meter
at 500ASA or 640ASA (1/3-1/2 stop) and then still develop "normaly" as if
you shot at 800ASA. This should lead to decreased contrast.
I have not tried this, but it might work.

Best Regards
Jens


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RE: IF button on PZ-1p

2001-03-02 Thread Jens Bladt

Fact (the original bruchure for Z1 says so)!
Jens
-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af Tiger Moses
Sendt: 2. marts 2001 16:18
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: RE: IF button on PZ-1p


Fact or Guess?
Thanks

At 10:32 PM 3/1/01 -0500, you wrote:
Interactive Function.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tiger Moses
 Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 4:07 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: IF button on PZ-1p


 Just curious, what does the IF actually stand for, dont see it anywhere
in
 the manual.

 My guess is Instant something

 I dont need to know what it does, I just want to know what IF stand for!

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RE: PUG comments Part VII

2001-03-02 Thread Jens Bladt

I Chris

Thanks for commenting. The picture came out darker than expected. The print
I have on my wall, shows much better skintone. Originally the shot showed
Sigurt and his sister (to the right), leaning their heads to oneanother.
That's the main reason for his relaxed expression. I took her away in
Picture Publisher (as well as the background) and redesigned his denim shirt
(right side). I guess the watercolor makes up for my lack of drawing skills.
The original shot is very different. I'm not sure you'd like it! ( Its on my
homepage - www.jensbladt.freeservers.com  as well as this picture without
the watercolor)  I love his expression so much, I just had to make some use
of this ordenary snapshot. (BTW I have just ordered scans from some of my
best South Africa slides - for future PUG's..)
Jens

Chris wrote:

" Siguwater " by Jens Bladt, Denmark

Hi, Jens.  You know, it's a good pose and nice cropping, but I can't help
but feel that I'd like the original more than the digitally edited
version.  I don't know that this particular filter really added anything
to the image.  It's obviously a personal preference thing (like all of my
suggestions), but I'm not fond of the texture of the skin tones, though I
must admit to liking the hair (except for that puzzle piece sticking out
on the left hand side).  :)  I think that there's a lot that you can do
with this photo; I'm just not sure that you've found the best filter or
combination of filters yet.  Keep playing!



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SV: On the topic of the 67II (was Re: Pros don't use Pentax...)

2001-03-04 Thread Jens Bladt

Hi
I have talked to pro's that use a polaroid back. They have a body especially
for this back.
Jens

-Oprindelig meddelelse-
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]P; vegne af [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sendt: 4. marts 2001 08:05
Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Emne: Re: On the topic of the 67II (was Re: Pros don't use Pentax...)


In a message dated 3/3/2001 10:59:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Mafud has the 67II, he could tell us if the back is easily removed or
not.

NOT! But I'm a real coward, even with the ease of removing the backs on
PENTAX 35mm bodies.



This digital NPC back: how much?
More than the expected price of the new PENTAX digital? Then again, I'm
still
not sold on (small format) digital, though it fits in medium format camera
bodies.


Mafud
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