[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
What is the benefit of threadless to the consumer/rider, Garth? I do not 
see it.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Fund my Clem sale!

2015-03-28 Thread Jason Hartman
I haven't looked them up, but some of the brightly anodized early 90's mtb
parts are becoming collectible. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get
$200 or more for the cranks alone, depending on condition.

Jay Hartman

On Saturday, March 28, 2015, Wayne Naha w.r.n...@gmail.com wrote:

 Let the discounting begin!  Also, my wife thinks that the purple cranks
 are keeping folks from loving this bike.  I told her no way that's true.
 But if you want, I bet with the application of some elbow grease and scotch
 brite pads, you could take that color right off.  Lets say $700.00 for the
 complete bike, or make me an offer for the frame.

 On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 12:01:19 PM UTC-4, Wayne Naha wrote:

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Zed Martinez
51cm makes sense, the seat tube in the overlay is slightly shorter on the Hunq 
so I was suspecting that. The wheel discrepancy is there, you can see the 
Hunq's wheels are complete while the Clem's are cut off at the bottom of the 
shot. If my maths aren't failing me, a 26 wheel tuning 2.3 max tires 
shouldn't be too much smaller than the 650b with the 50mm Big Bens they keep 
using, so, again, probably off by maybe up to a half inch, but I think it's 
close. I'll try one later sizing the Hunq assuming it's a 51 and get a more 
accurate overlay in that regard.

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[RBW] Re: Tips for Quick beam for long, mountain rides

2015-03-28 Thread ascpgh
Fantastic! Great to hear that spring is actually happening anywhere. Snow 
without accumulation all day yesterday, fluffy coating everywhere this 
morning and 19°, high of 28°. I don't think my plodding winter miles would 
be enough base to take a 50 mile ride yet alone 70. I'd  be frozen 
somewhere around the 30 mile mark.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 4:16:15 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I cheated and it was nearly all paved, but I did 70 miles on the Quickbeam 
 today, to Deckers, then 6 miles North along the Platte (back to where we 
 camped a few night ago). Just using basic math I averaged 11-12 mph, which 
 is pretty good given the climbing involved. The section along the Platte 
 river is dreamy. Just meandering along with the river realitively flat 
 either way. What a blast! I haven't felt this good on that ride ever, so I 
 must be doing something right. Grin. Perhaps I'll get cocky and give Pikes 
 Peak another go on the QB later this year. Grin.

 Photos start here and go for a total of four progressing left: 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/16741137817/

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Zack
the only wrong way to do coffee outside is not to do it :-)

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[RBW] FS, Rivendell Custom Road 56cm, Bleriot 55cm

2015-03-28 Thread clipsnstaps
Parts, etc
Rivendell Road Custom

Joe Stark Built

 

This is the very first Joel Green Rivendell built. I ordered this and let Grant 
pick the color, the next time the color was used was by another customer named 
Joel, hence the name. Grant also has or had a Joel Green Rivendell.

 

It is a 56cm frame with a 56cm TT (unusual for Rivendell. I was at Rivendell 
and Grant measured me for this bike). It is a very comfortable bike to ride 
handles great, looks great, it is a Rivendell. Selling because I have not 
ridden it since a car accident (not with the bike) in June 2010 and I just 
don’t know if I will ever be able to ride it again.

 

The bike needs a good cleaning, it has been in the basement unused for over 4 
years. Other than that it is perfect in all ways.

 

A couple of scratches but really not many.

 

Low miles

 

Here are some of the parts on the bike

All of the Suntour parts were NOS when the build was done

 

Albatross Bars

Suntour Bar End shifters

Brooks B68, honey

Plastic Fenders

Cyclone Rear D

Cyclone Long Reach Breaks

Superb Pro hubs

Mavic MA2 rims

TA Zepher triple (I got the last two in the country from what I was told)  The 
pics make it look scratched, this is dirt and dust, just wiped a part down, 
looks almost new…. I suspect this will be the case with many of the pics, over 
4 years without being touched.

Font rings probably 48/38/28  I can check if needed

Nitto Cages

Nitto Stem (techmatic I think it was called, the longest one available at the 
time)

Nitto Seat Post

Campy Pedals (the ones that sell for over $80 a set) These show wear, scratches 
but VG condition, work well.

Sachs or Suntour FW, probably 13-26

Rear Rack, inexpensive but works well

Tires are 28mm, I think Roly Poly Panaracer

Suntour XC Pro brake handles

Bar Tape is shellaced



Asking $2600 for complete bike plus shipping, talk to me on this... Frame only, 
we can discuss back channel on my email.


Mar 17me
Will consider parting out the Riv Road, would like to sell the Bleriot as is
The Bleriot was ridden about 5-10 times(in perfect condition) before I was in a 
bad car accident in 2010 and has not been ridden since
The road has more miles, in excellent condition, a few paint chips, etc but 
nothing bad.

I really cannot stand to see these just stay in the basement, too nice and need 
to be ridden. Thanks, Joel

here is some info

Rivendell Road Custom

Joe Stark Built

 

This is the very first Joel Green Rivendell built. I ordered this and let Grant 
pick the color, the next time the color was used was by another customer named 
Joel, hence the name. Grant also has or had a Joel Green Rivendell.

 

It is a 56cm frame with a 56cm TT (unusual for Rivendell. I was at Rivendell 
and Grant measured me for this bike). It is a very comfortable bike to ride 
handles great, looks great, it is a Rivendell. Selling because I have not 
ridden it since a car accident (not with the bike) in June 2010 and I just 
don’t know if I will ever be able to ride it again.

 

The bike needs a good cleaning, it has been in the basement unused for over 4 
years. Other than that it is perfect in all ways.

 

A couple of scratches but really not many.

 

Low miles

 

Here are some of the parts on the bike

All of the Suntour parts were NOS when the build was done

 

Albatross Bars

Suntour Bar End shifters

Brooks B68, honey

Plastic Fenders

Cyclone Rear D

Cyclone Long Reach Breaks

Superb Pro hubs

Mavic MA2 rims

TA Zepher triple (I got the last two in the country from what I was told)  The 
pics make it look scratched, this is dirt and dust, just wiped a part down, 
looks almost new…. I suspect this will be the case with many of the pics, over 
4 years without being touched.

Font rings probably 48/38/28  I can check if needed

Nitto Cages

Nitto Stem (techmatic I think it was called, the longest one available at the 
time)

Nitto Seat Post

Campy Pedals (the ones that sell for over $80 a set) These show wear, scratches 
but VG condition, work well.

Sachs or Suntour FW, probably 13-26

Rear Rack, inexpensive but works well

Tires are 28mm, I think Roly Poly Panaracer

Suntour XC Pro brake handles

Bar Tape is shellaced



Asking $2600 for complete bike plus shipping, talk to me on this... Frame only, 
we can discuss back channel on my email.

 

Pics

 

 

http://s60.photobucket.com/user/guitone/library/Rivendell%20Road%20FS?sort=4page=1



More current but indoor pics taken with a flash

http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/jrstern11/library/Rivendell?sort=3page=1



Also the Bleriot is a 55CM, many of the same type parts, Sugino Crank (triple), 
mostly NOS Suntour except the barcons which are in excellent condition.. Nifty 
Swifty tires, those Velocity Rims. 

More accurate list

Nitto stem (techmatic) , seatpost
Sugino triple, 48/38/28 i believe
Sachs or Suntour FW, 13-26
Suntour bar ebd shifters these were used but very clean,
Velocity synergy rims, Nifty Swifty tires,
Brooks saddle
Blackburn rack

[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Jim M.
One wheelset for my Bombadil has 650x42 Hetres and it rides great. I'm 
tempted to take it on a long brevet with those tires. The flexibility to 
use multiple tire widths is one of the great things with all of my 
Rivendells.

jim m
wc ca


On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 11:25:56 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 I read a piece on the Internet a couple of days ago in which the author 
 swapped the 50-something tires on his Hunq for 38s or 40s.  He wasn't into 
 single-tracking and was trying to make the bike into a better (read faster) 
 commuter.  Has anyone in the Group tried the thin tire route on a Hunq and, 
 if so, what were your impressions?
 All the best,
 Kevin


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Re: [RBW] Fund my Clem sale!

2015-03-28 Thread Wayne Naha
Thanks, Jay!  I hadn't considered that.  Also, the bike is for sale 
locally, so if you're feeling froggy, jump!

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 5:11:27 PM UTC-4, jay hartman wrote:

 I haven't looked them up, but some of the brightly anodized early 90's mtb 
 parts are becoming collectible. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get 
 $200 or more for the cranks alone, depending on condition.  

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
Yes I have , but like everyone else , has anyone tested 2 identical bikes , 
one with a threaded construction of 1 , and the other threadless of 1-1/8 
?   Maybe a few frame builders have, but not the public.  A direct 
comparison like this would be truest . 

That said though, I recognize it can be easier to adjust for some . however 
I have no problem with threaded ones as I grew up with them. Also, how 
often are they overhauled, once a year ? 
I have an American Classic Trilock catridge bearing headset on one bike, 
which was a brilliant idea, requiring only one 2.5mm allen wrench .  The 
fork can be taken off without the bearings coming out .   Now long defunct 
, sadly .  But there is a brilliant implementation of a threaded design 
independent of 32mm wrenches .  Surely there could have been others.


As far as flex, I've never noted it once it in my life of riding , even 
back in the day racing with long Cinelli XA stems and bars and a strapping 
200+ pounds , lol.  Even if there was , did it make any difference in any 
way as far as the quality of the ride and moment ?  Nope  !  I guarantee 
not even a pro racer would say man, it was that stiff bike that propelled 
my to victory . 

Adjustments and versatility/flexibility is where threaded/quills shine 
though. The threadless system , while touting it's improvements in the end 
also becomes more limiting , just like the threaded in it's own way.  We 
call this progress !  It's this way with all human inventions though . 

But all this is relative to the perceiver , and so it is with opinions ;) 

And a very merry Good nite !




On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 4:05:03 PM UTC-4, Jim M. wrote:

 Have you ridden threadless? It flexes much less than threaded, which some 
 will find reassuring, especially on rough terrain rides. To the home 
 mechanic it offers the advantage of being simpler to install and is less 
 finicky to adjust.

 jim m
 wc ca

 On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:23:34 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 What is the benefit of threadless to the consumer/rider, Garth? I do not 
 see it.

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch
Prior to purchasing my Sam Hillborne I was interested in the Trek 520.  The 
problem was I couldn't get the handlebars high enough.  I wanted them at 
least seat height.  I emailed Trek to see if a dealer could order one for 
me with the steering tube uncut.  Here is their reply:

No, unfortunately the steer tubes are not able to be ordered uncut. There 
is a maximum amount of steer tube that can be showing above the headset, so 
for liability reasons we cannot recommend a longer one than what comes 
stock on the bike.

Will 
Trek HQ Waterloo, WI
Answered at 1:35 PM on Tuesday, October 5, 2010 






On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless 
 floor model road bikes when assembling? 

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by? 
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models? 

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than 
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill 
 stems. 


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[RBW] Re: Clem with drop bars

2015-03-28 Thread cbone97
I am considering it.  Figure it won't hurt to try.  Cant wait to find out. 
The recent post about Clem and Hunq geometries being similar is making me 
think this may not be that bad of an idea.  Until this fall, it's all just 
guessing and speculation, at least for me.  

Best,
Charles

On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 9:14:23 AM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:




 Is anyone considering using drop bars on their Clem build. The 61 cm tt on 
 the 59 is not too long for me. 
 I am a new member to this group, been a fairly quiet member of ibob and 
 CR for many years. I have a Rivendell Road, 96,  and last fall bought 
 a 2000 AR. Main interest is cycletouring, returned this week from 3 months 
 in Mexico.  Steve

 Plymouth, New Hampshire


 -- 
 Steven Sweedler
 Plymouth, New Hampshire



 -- 
 Steven Sweedler
 Plymouth, New Hampshire


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[RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-28 Thread 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hey all,

I made my annual trip from Va. to L.A. to see my sister and ride with 
bro-in-law, Ian - and of course do a repeat of the Strada Rossa!

These two albums are from Ian's and my ride last Saturday doing the 
Redlands Inland Empire Biking Alliance mixed-surface 50k / 100k group ride:

*https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649271649764/*

Our Sunday post-ride ride was as much fun, thanks to David (cyclotourist) 
Estes giving up his day to guide us through Redlands and up to the single 
track riding in the Crafton Hills Trails:

*https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649295487053/*

David's wife, Holly and family treated us to a great lunch after - on very 
short notice! Thanks Holly!

Ian rode his Rivendell Atlantis with fat Smart Sams and I rode his 
Rivendell Homer Hilsen (one size too large) with Schwable Dureme's. That 
hard packed stuff was not a problem on those stout bikes. I was glad to 
have plenty of east coast single tracking experience though! Bikes seen 
along the way ranged from carbon fiber CX bikes, to all-steel like ours, to 
mountain bikes. Fun for all.

Great fun both days, but that California sun is hard on a east-coast guy! I 
came back with a farmer's tan!

Paul Germain 
Midlothian, Va.


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 2:08:57 PM UTC-4, hsmitham wrote:

 We had another great ride out in cyclotourist country. David was a great 
 host, we had gourmet pizza  craft beer. The day of the ride was superb! We 
 had Paul Germain visiting from Virginia for the second year riding his 
 brother in laws A.A.H. and  Ian on his custom red Atlantis, Biketinker 
 Phillip came down from Northern Cal with Jacquie Phelan representing. Jim, 
 Estaban  Aaron were seen climbing some awesome single track. This is short 
 so others can fill in any details I miss.

 Here's some images:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/with/16285457244/

 Cheers,

 ~Hugh
   Los Angeles, CA


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[RBW] Bargain Atlantis in Virginia

2015-03-28 Thread islaysteve
I saw this at the Velo Classique sale in Purcellville, VA, which is not far 
from DC.  54 or 55 Atlantis 2 complete bike, $1200.  Seems like a 
screamin' deal.  Sorry i didnt take  a good look at the build but did 
notice Ultegra STI levers and a funky-looling black crank.  Had a pretty 
nice rear rack.  Thie stores phone is (540) 338-8376, im posting only 
because their web presence is a little sparse.  You may not reach them if 
you call Sun as the sale is upstairs from the regular store.  No relation 
to seller, just thought someone here might be interested.
Cheers, Steve

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[RBW] Re: Bargain Atlantis in Virginia

2015-03-28 Thread Minh
Hi Steve,

Anything else to report from this sale?

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:17:48 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:

 I saw this at the Velo Classique sale in Purcellville, VA, which is not 
 far from DC.  54 or 55 Atlantis 2 complete bike, $1200.  Seems like a 
 screamin' deal.  Sorry i didnt take  a good look at the build but did 
 notice Ultegra STI levers and a funky-looling black crank.  Had a pretty 
 nice rear rack.  Thie stores phone is (540) 338-8376, im posting only 
 because their web presence is a little sparse.  You may not reach them if 
 you call Sun as the sale is upstairs from the regular store.  No relation 
 to seller, just thought someone here might be interested.
 Cheers, Steve


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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
It's good for those wanting the absolute lightest and stiffest setups , 
mostly racers and such enthusiasts. Any ride/rider/organization etc. that 
is concerned with time , is racing ;)  
Except when it's for dinner I suppose and you're mouth is watering .  
Exemption there . LoL ! 

It's more convenient if the bike needs frequent disassembly for travel, far 
from the masses though. 

Oh yes, I suspect it is really the best though for the manufacturers .  
Less labor cost , less stems to make and stock .  

For the rest of us, yes quills are just fine .  I even use a quill 
threadless adapter on one bike myself.  As much as I prefer threaded 
setups, I've never really like the 7 style -17 degree stems .  I wish 
they made silver zero degree quills in long tall lengths , but the only one 
is Profile black welded one.  So I use a VO/Genetic Quill adapter with the 
least offensive threaded stem I could find(Koski) , and they don't eve make 
it anymore as I guess it was deemed too heavy or what I don't know. Sure 
the setup looks a little odd from the side, but I don't look at my bikes 
except from above while riding and from there it looks completely normal 
, just wider. 


Here is an article about the two types, slanted toward threadless. 
http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/headsets.pdf



On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 3:23:34 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 What is the benefit of threadless to the consumer/rider, Garth? I do not 
 see it.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Eric Daume
29ers are even worse. There are a lot of XL 29ers out there with a
100~110mm head tube. It's ridiculous. To get the bars at saddle height, us
tall folks will need 50-80mm of spacers, which looks dorky.

Eric

On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 1:43 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I wish Surly would have proportionately taller head tubes on their bikes.
 They are across the board 20-30mm too short IMHO. The 60cm Crosscheck for
 example has a 160mm headtube. To my way of thinking, that should be 190mm.
 180 would be a good compromise. Then you could get rid of 30mm of spacers
 on the steerer, which would help it look cleaner and less hacky.
 I guess they don't want to alienate the 'Slam dat stem' crowd... :-)

 On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 10:18 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 The vast majority of production bikes come with pre-cut steerers, and how
 much they are cut depends on the manufacturer.  Generally it's rare to have
 more than 40mm of adjustment above the headset upper.  In fact, the fork is
 usually fully installed, and all we do at the shop is maybe install the
 stem and assure proper headset adjustment.  I usually like to move the stem
 to its highest possible setting (top of the spacer stack, flipped for
 rise).

 The QBP brands (Salsa and Surly) are a notable exception, with every size
 coming with a fork that has yet to be installed, with the steerer uncut and
 without the star nut not pressed in.  When I was service manager at a shop,
 I mandated that we leave the steerers uncut on these bikes.  However, that
 does make things difficult with a lot of customers who don't understand how
 threadless forks work or why anyone would want to run their bars that
 high.  Their aesthetic first impressions (all too often a critical part of
 bike buying) are totally thrown off by the spacer stack, and if they test
 ride the bike with a normal stem height they're unnerved by the extra
 spacer stack above the stem threatening to poke them in the solar plexus.
 So, there are downsides for the retailer who leaves them uncut.

 Yes, Rivendell avoids all this with 1 threaded headsets and quill stems
 but from a mechanical perspective, threadless is really superior.  With
 steel steerer tubes there is no practical limit to how high you can run the
 bars above the headset.  In fact, a high bar setup feels much more solid
 with a threadless stem than with a quill stem, and headset adjustment is
 far easier.  Of course, as James and others have pointed out, achieving
 Riv-esque bar height with a threadless setup requires slightly more
 deliberate choices on the part of the bike designer and bike assembler.

 With carbon steerers becoming de rigeur on high-end bikes, there is much
 more of a practical limit on how high you want to run a stem.  I'm sure
 different manufacturers would say different things but I would never want
 to run a carbon fork with more that about 40 or 50mm of spacers max.



 On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless
 floor model road bikes when assembling?

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go
 by? Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models?

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill
 stems.

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 Cheers,
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 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



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[RBW] FS, Rivendell Custom Road 56cm, Bleriot 55cm

2015-03-28 Thread clipsnstaps
FS, 2 bikes, i will be traveling and leaving 4/18 and returning 6/14.  Access 
to internet not a probkem. Pics available. Will consider oarting out Road. 
Prefer to sell bleriot as is.  Bleriot ridden just a handfull of times, new 
condition, moslty NOS PARTS, MOST Suntour. Velocity Synergy wheels.
Road Custom, 56cm ST, 56cm TT.  ALSO mosltly suntour parts, MA2 wheels.  Bikes 
not ridden since 2010 when i had a car accident. 2 surgeries later it it time 
to let them go.

Pics available 

http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/jrstern11/library/Rivendell?sort=3page=1

http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/jrstern11/library/Bleriot?sort=3page=1

Would like plus shipping
$2600 for Rivendell
$1600 for Bleriot

Thx

If interested but timing is an issue i do not really expect to sell these till 
my return. 

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[RBW] Re: Velo Orange Yard Sale 3/28

2015-03-28 Thread DMG
Some really great deals to be had, definitely -- especially on complete 
bikes and frames (a couple of great vintage bikes for $300, including a 
super nice 70's Windsor). I got some prototype pedals, a fork, one of the 
nice filleted stems and a few odds and ends for under $90. They also had a 
bunch of orphaned aluminum fenders of various sizes and styles for $5.  

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Surlyprof
I'd heard good things about aeropress but haven't sprung for one myself.  
Backpacking and camping, I've used this:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermos-34-Ounce-Insulated-Stainless-Steel-Gourmet/dp/B4S1DB

These are a little on the larger size but make good coffee and keep it warm 
for a while.  They are durable so you load bags of coffee inside, find a 
place to strap it on and not worry about it knocking about.

John

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 8:41:28 AM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:

 Im gearing up to do this activity on the weekends. I'm wondering what 
 people use for coffee outside, and a list of items one shouldn't leave home 
 without. Add your photos as well. Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Tips for Quick beam for long, mountain rides

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
I hear you, Andy. We're likely to get snow for the next month and a half, 
though it's the spring kind that vanishes the next day or two in a  wet 
sloppy mess. I was glad I got my ride in yesterday. Hard brain day today 
has me not doing too much, though I managed a family ride with everyone of 
8 miles (my wife's just getting back into biking and she has the piccolo 
behind her as it doesn't work with my vertigo. I do get to haul our 2-year 
old on a seat in front of me. Makes my knees stick out like a bow-legged 
rider. Grin. Enjoy the weekend!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread William deRosset
What is the benefit of threadless to the consumer/rider, Garth? I do not 
see it.

Dear Patrick,
Well, here's my off-the-cuff list:
1. Easier adjustment, esp. when traveling, as a 32mm wrench on tour is a 
hassle, but a 5mm allen is quite easy.
2. Allows installation of a switch for internal lighting without falling 
really deep into bespoke-land (no braze-in 7/8 stub+7/8 clamp-on 
supercustom stem, but you might need a lathe to make the switch 
housing/star nut until someone commercializes a really good one).
3. Similar range of adjustability for the user (before you cut the steerer, 
the range is larger).
4. Doesn't seize in the steerer if neglected. 
5. Doesn't distort the steerer if you buy a bike used from a ham-handed 
mechanic.
6. Readily available in most bike shops should something nasty happen to 
your bike.
7. Almost always comes with a removeable face plate. This is actually a big 
deal in my opinion until you've got your fit worked out on the bike.
8. Doesn't bottom out on the steerer butt when you decide to lower your 
stem.
8. The bikes models with threadless steerers are less expensive to 
manufacture and stock (one fork per range of fork rake, vs a fork for every 
size; no threading of the steerer required). Less expensive to produce, and 
less expensive to install, less expensive to sell. One hopes all that 
savings gets passed along to you, the user.
9. Quill stems are a non-starter for carbon-fiber steerers. If you like CF 
forks, and some really do, then threadless really is a better/safer design.
10. They're ordinarily lighter. I care, but not too terribly much.

On the other hand, Threadless is: 
1. Uglier. Even the silver ones.
2. Less flexible/stiffer (may be less comfortable on rough terrain).
3. More common (may not meet exclusivity targets).
4. Not easily drilled for use as a brake stop for centerpull/cantilever 
brakes
5. Require a shim if you use a 1 steerer and don't produce a custom 1 
stem. There's a supply-chain reason for using 1 steerers for low-trail 
bikes, that isn't relevant here.
5. Did I mention they're something introduced at the height of the O/S 
steel craze, Stiffer is Better revolution, and were sold on that basis, 
despite mostly being a SKU reduction strategy and reducing the amount of 
hand fettling required to get a bike built at the shop?

Any rider benefits are strictly ancillary to the 
manufacturing/stock/material arguments.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO





On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:23:34 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:


 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Wildcat96
FWIW, my 51cm Hillborne and 52cm Bombadil have the same length head tubes at 
about 17cm.  I would guess the 51 Hunqapillar and 52 Clem would be similiar.  
Looks like the head tubes match up in your overlay.

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Re: [RBW] Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Dan McNamara
I have a few different setups. I like coffee gadgets. 

Two different stove setups:

Trangia Mini. Packs pretty small about 3x6. 

Caldera Cone Keg. Packs into a 4x8 cylinder.

The Caldera boils faster and is more fun as it uses an up-cycled Fosters can as 
the kettle. For grab and go the Trangia is better as you can pre-fill the 
burner. 

Grinders:

Porlex mini is the best. Small and performs well. 



Coffee makers:

Moka pot

Aeropress

Helix coffee dripper

Super cheap Tiamo 102 plastic dripper that I have 400 filters for and cost $8 
all in. 

Depends on what I feel like carrying. I can grind coffee at home with the moka 
pot. Just add water and put in on the burner. 

Helix packs the smallest and is the coolest design. 

Aeropress can make the best cup but is a little more fussy. The Porlex mini 
does pack mostly inside it. 

Tiamo was super cheap and I don't really care if something happens to it. It 
does make a good drip cup. 

Mug:

Association of Caffeinated Wheelmen. Enameled steel. 


Lots of pictures of various setups on Flicker #coffeeoutside

Rob At Ocean Air Cycles is a good source of info. He sells the Helix dripper 
and the Caldera Cone. 

-Dan







 On Mar 28, 2015, at 8:41 AM, Kellie kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Im gearing up to do this activity on the weekends. I'm wondering what people 
 use for coffee outside, and a list of items one shouldn't leave home without. 
 Add your photos as well. Thanks.
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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
You know Jeremy , it's all about preference :)   Threadless was touted as 
being superior from it's inception , but to who and with what parameters 
in mind must always be considered.There is definitely a place for both 
, as both have their pro and con which is an endless discussion not worthy 
of time here .  It's kinda like the FW/Cassette thing,  another system does 
not make the other obsolete or any less than it is . 



On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:18:47 PM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:

 The vast majority of production bikes come with pre-cut steerers, and how 
 much they are cut depends on the manufacturer.  Generally it's rare to have 
 more than 40mm of adjustment above the headset upper.  In fact, the fork is 
 usually fully installed, and all we do at the shop is maybe install the 
 stem and assure proper headset adjustment.  I usually like to move the stem 
 to its highest possible setting (top of the spacer stack, flipped for 
 rise).  

 The QBP brands (Salsa and Surly) are a notable exception, with every size 
 coming with a fork that has yet to be installed, with the steerer uncut and 
 without the star nut not pressed in.  When I was service manager at a shop, 
 I mandated that we leave the steerers uncut on these bikes.  However, that 
 does make things difficult with a lot of customers who don't understand how 
 threadless forks work or why anyone would want to run their bars that high. 
  Their aesthetic first impressions (all too often a critical part of bike 
 buying) are totally thrown off by the spacer stack, and if they test ride 
 the bike with a normal stem height they're unnerved by the extra spacer 
 stack above the stem threatening to poke them in the solar plexus. So, 
 there are downsides for the retailer who leaves them uncut. 

 Yes, Rivendell avoids all this with 1 threaded headsets and quill stems 
 but from a mechanical perspective, threadless is really superior.  With 
 steel steerer tubes there is no practical limit to how high you can run the 
 bars above the headset.  In fact, a high bar setup feels much more solid 
 with a threadless stem than with a quill stem, and headset adjustment is 
 far easier.  Of course, as James and others have pointed out, achieving 
 Riv-esque bar height with a threadless setup requires slightly more 
 deliberate choices on the part of the bike designer and bike assembler.  

 With carbon steerers becoming de rigeur on high-end bikes, there is much 
 more of a practical limit on how high you want to run a stem.  I'm sure 
 different manufacturers would say different things but I would never want 
 to run a carbon fork with more that about 40 or 50mm of spacers max.   



 On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless 
 floor model road bikes when assembling? 

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by? 
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models? 

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than 
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill 
 stems. 



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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Jim M.
Have you ridden threadless? It flexes much less than threaded, which some 
will find reassuring, especially on rough terrain rides. To the home 
mechanic it offers the advantage of being simpler to install and is less 
finicky to adjust.

jim m
wc ca

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:23:34 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 What is the benefit of threadless to the consumer/rider, Garth? I do not 
 see it.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks, Will. I still don't get it, but then I don't get why shoes aren't 
foot shaped, have a raised heel, cushioning, and support either. Sardonic 
grin.

1: Are they really that hard to adjust? I've figured it out and go touring 
without headset wrenches and have never had an issue. Not to say I won't, 
but can it really be so hard?
3: I've seen many threadless bikes (often Surlys around here, and I'm only 
looking at the L and XL) that have no way to get to the right handlebar 
height, but a threaded headset would allow that were it on the same bike. 

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Zed Martinez
Jim, regarding your thoughts, I'm with you to that extent. Certainly the 
wheelbase, bb drop, tire size, fork rake, head tube angle, seat tube angle 
and all that go together to form how the thing rides. But I guess what I 
was going for is how you choose to build it up to fit it mostly matters in 
the main triangle. I suspect the Clem will always have those mellower 
riding aspects to it, the long wheelbase alone will see to it that it 
always has a specific feel to the ride. But, it's like with my roadster. If 
I leave the default stem and north-roads on, it's a medium upright bike, 
but low enough to get out of the wind. If I flip the bars I can get a 
pretty sporty ride out of it, despite the long wheelbase. Right now I have 
it built for neighborhood rides with a big old Technomic, and it rides much 
slower than it used to because I've built it into upright positions now. 
The frame dictates a certain ride feel, but it's got a lot of flex in how I 
utilize that, from cafe racer all the way up to stately cruiser. I just 
feel the Clem's frame is like that. It's not like some frames I've seen 
that really do force a certain type of build. I think it's going to always 
have a smooth and staid ride, and not be overly agile or sporty feeling, 
but I'm excited to see how it works for builds outside Grant's suggestions. 
I have no doubt it will be a great townie, I'm just curious to see how it 
does for those other things he hinted it could be too. 

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:17:39 PM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 IME, relying upon one (or two, or three...) aspect(s) of the geometry 
 never really translates to real-world behavior.  Patrick and others touch 
 on this above. 

 Back when low-trail was in fact the New Low Trail™ I was lucky enough to 
 have a few longer conversations with Grant about the urge to swap out forks 
 on Riv models.  Or the push to just offer it with a different fork.  While 
 it would be difficult to distill all the topics covered, one major take 
 away was an awareness of how many small factors add up to the ride of a 
 given bicycle. 

 For example, riding one of the Appaloosa models is nothing like what it 
 appears from a side view.  I've ridden a number of long bikes (Big Dummy 
 style) and there was none of the rental truck navigation required to 
 maneuver it .  It was a bike designed for a specific posture that rode like 
 a Rivendell. Which, yes, I realize does veer to the realm of non-measurable 
 perception.  

 But, over the past years, GP has quietly developed a model which works 
 with upright non-racing bars, but behaves like a bicycle you want to ride, 
 not a cruiser or hauler or some almost-a-bike derivation.  The branch of 
 the Mystery Bike / Appaloosa / Cheviot / Clem is certainly interesting. 
 Deciding which model is right for your needs probably has a lot to do which 
 what other bicycle (if any) might be available.

 Great discussion!

 - Jim / cyclofiend.com


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Re: [RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

2015-03-28 Thread Joe Bunik
what are they using in terms of stem?
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 3/26/15, Jim A jamesmarionberryashleywal...@gmail.com wrote:
 It is indeed 1 threadless. Slightly strange choice. But I have built up a
 couple of the frames and like them.

 On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 1:25:21 PM UTC-7, Eddie Flayer wrote:

 it says 1 inch headset, so must be 1 inch threadless steerer. If in doubt,

 send them an email.

 On Friday, February 14, 2014 at 7:40:06 PM UTC-8, eflayer wrote:

 http://newalbioncycles.com/

 Makes me wonder if, or the degree to which, Grant Peterson may be
 associated with these bikes. Not sure how they are differentiated from
 Soma, but some nice stuff coming.



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[RBW] Re: WTB (or trade for): rear hub

2015-03-28 Thread Dave Johnston
Pacenti PL23 is a pretty lightweight rim (maybe the lightest 650b rim on 
the market), the walls are thinner than Synergy, I think it will offer less 
dent protection.

I'm a big fan of Shimano rear hubs, especially the ones that are last years 
or earlier models on closeout. I think shimano hubs are about the quietest 
of the ratchet systems, wasn't there some brand with a ring clutch though 
that was even quieter?

Where did you find the 5500 in 36h? I think Riv only has them in 32h for 
the rear.

-Dave J



On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 11:23:03 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:

 I'm looking for a rear hub.  Let me know what spares you have, or if you 
 know of a great deal.

 130 mm OLD 
 8/9/10 speed cassette freehub
 36 hole
 Silver body
 Quiet pawls (no loud angry bee hubs)

 I'd like something high quality; I'm currently riding the Phil freewheel 
 hub original to my '97 Riv and it's butter-smooth (with new bearings). 

 I will build it up with a new Pacenti PL23 rim.  I keep denting Synergy OC 
 rims (2 since September, the cheapo ZAC19 I had before was dent free).

 I see my new options as:
 White Industries T11 or MI5 ~$325
 Paul RHUB ~$325 (noisy?)
 Phil Wood ~$410
 Velo Orange Grand Cru Touring ~$110
 Ultegra 6700 ~$100
 105 5500 ~$55

 Any other good options?  What do I gain (besides MUSA) by going with the 
 Paul or White Industries vs. the Ultegra or Grand Cru?  Are any of the ones 
 I listed noisy, and I don't know it yet?  Also, anyone know a great price 
 for spokes?  Best I see is ~$.80 per (in quantities of 50 or 100).

 Items I offer in trade:
 Nitto Big Front rack (excellent condition)
 Sackville Trunksack Large Olive (good condition)
 Revelate Tangle frame bag, Large (brand new)
 Nitto Moustache bars, Dirt Drop 8 stem, and Dia-compe non-aero brake levers
 Campagnolo Athena 9-speed (old) Ergo brake/shifters -- good hoods, work 
 great, come with free Race Triple RD if wanted (free b/c it has a crack in 
 the mount knuckle). These index shift 9 speed Campy or 7 speed whatever 
 (set up on a freewheel currently).  Works fine with a triple, Race Triple 
 FD also available.

 Thanks!
 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA




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[RBW] Re: Ram with 38s (third eights)!!!!!

2015-03-28 Thread Don Compton
Looks like Matt got a great bike. I hope he rides the hell out of it like 
Grant intended.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:25:06 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Matt Isaacs just emailed me with this photo of the frame I sold him, built 
 up with  Compas 38s!!!



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 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-28 Thread cyclotourist
I think I have all the albums compiled here... let me know if I forgot
somebody! These show the perspective of the lugs  leather crowd pretty
nicely!

Paul's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649271649764/


Hugh's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649271649764/


Esteban's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/16929993845/


Jim's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/46035786@N07/sets/72157651544957831


Mine: https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/sets/72157651165005667/


Philip's: https://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/16716596259/

On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 4:17 PM, 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Hey all,

 I made my annual trip from Va. to L.A. to see my sister and ride with
 bro-in-law, Ian - and of course do a repeat of the Strada Rossa!

 These two albums are from Ian's and my ride last Saturday doing the
 Redlands Inland Empire Biking Alliance mixed-surface 50k / 100k group ride:

 *https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649271649764/
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649271649764/*

 Our Sunday post-ride ride was as much fun, thanks to David (cyclotourist)
 Estes giving up his day to guide us through Redlands and up to the single
 track riding in the Crafton Hills Trails:

 *https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649295487053/
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/sets/72157649295487053/*

 David's wife, Holly and family treated us to a great lunch after - on very
 short notice! Thanks Holly!

 Ian rode his Rivendell Atlantis with fat Smart Sams and I rode his
 Rivendell Homer Hilsen (one size too large) with Schwable Dureme's. That
 hard packed stuff was not a problem on those stout bikes. I was glad to
 have plenty of east coast single tracking experience though! Bikes seen
 along the way ranged from carbon fiber CX bikes, to all-steel like ours, to
 mountain bikes. Fun for all.

 Great fun both days, but that California sun is hard on a east-coast guy!
 I came back with a farmer's tan!

 Paul Germain
 Midlothian, Va.


 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 2:08:57 PM UTC-4, hsmitham wrote:

 We had another great ride out in cyclotourist country. David was a great
 host, we had gourmet pizza  craft beer. The day of the ride was superb! We
 had Paul Germain visiting from Virginia for the second year riding his
 brother in laws A.A.H. and  Ian on his custom red Atlantis, Biketinker
 Phillip came down from Northern Cal with Jacquie Phelan representing. Jim,
 Estaban  Aaron were seen climbing some awesome single track. This is short
 so others can fill in any details I miss.

 Here's some images:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/with/16285457244/

 Cheers,

 ~Hugh
   Los Angeles, CA

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it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Ram with 38s (third eights)!!!!!

2015-03-28 Thread dougP
That looks just right.  What a nice looking ride.

dougP

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:25:06 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Matt Isaacs just emailed me with this photo of the frame I sold him, built 
 up with  Compas 38s!!!



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 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
  

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Re: [RBW] The aftermath of my recent car vs. bike hit and run.

2015-03-28 Thread Philip Williamson
Wow. That person is not good. Deep breath. In. Out. Slow. Nice of them to go 
around you after they slid you off the hood?
I'm really glad you're recovering, and that your morale is so good!

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Philip Williamson
Threadless is easy to reallocate bars across different bikes, easy to resize a 
bike for a very different sized rider, easy to drop a fork out of a frame for 
whatever reason. Easy to buy a new stem in a bike shop. I've never had a stuck 
threadless stem. All my threadless parts are interchangeable, which is not true 
of my quill stem bikes.

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread ascpgh
The shop where I bought my Disc Trucker doesn't cut steerers at all until 
fitted and sold, and then they really encourage leaving an extra inch and a 
half to two inches extra, just to be sure before making it shorter. A 
benefit of the threadless paradigm. Actually handy if the the ideal stem is 
too hard to find. An alternate of both extension and rise may solve the 
perfect position of the bar, as long as enough steerer remains to adjust up 
for an alternate stem with no rise.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh 

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:38:07 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless 
 floor model road bikes when assembling? 

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by? 
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models? 

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than 
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill 
 stems. 


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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
Many if not most complete bikes sold in shops come already cut with the 
stem installed , at least it was when I worked in the biz putting them 
together from the box.  Some brands, like a Surly of course, do not.  But 
I'm talking your mainstream bike shops here , like those that sell the 
Trek, Bianchi and such .  

   It really depends on not only the shop , but where the bike is. Is it on 
the floor already complete ? Too late obviously.  If yet unassembled then 
of course you hopefully have some say, if not leave the store .  

   I noticed on Surly's website though, that* they use the same steering 
tube length on ALL their frame sizes* !   So while a small frame will have 
a huge option for cutting, the tallest frames may have zero to little if 
you want high-er bars.  It seems to me to be a step backwards, if you're 
going to do business that way . 

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[RBW] Re: I think I'm underutilizing my Bosco bars...

2015-03-28 Thread Ron Mc
If I were holding my bosco bars in the air, I wouldn't be smiling like that

On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 1:30:08 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQBbHzypBro

 Riv content: a golden bicycle, of course.

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


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[RBW] Re: brake advice

2015-03-28 Thread Will
I wanted to add some more to my brake impression.

Been riding the Tektro 720s for a bit longer. You can take the Riv 
evaluation (on their site) as gospel. The brakes are strong, they modulate 
really well and they are good looking. If you are running mid-40s tires and 
want something that is inexpensive and works like top-of-the-line, these 
brakes are the answer. I really like them. I especially like the straddle 
system. You can lock the wire at the straddle, then adjust the springs at 
the calipers. This means dead-on, reliable, rim-contact performance. It's 
fine-tuning that you have to experience to appreciate. 

On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 7:31:35 PM UTC-5, Will wrote:

 I almost did Moto-Lites, but 2 things got in the way: 1) I want to install 
 a Tubus Logo Evo and the area looked conflicted for Moto-lites, and 2) the 
 Atlantis has a very nice arched brake bridge that would get abandoned. 
 Which seemed wrong. 

 Brian, at Riv, reco'd the CX-70 cantis, which I strongly suspect will 
 become my ending solution, once I change to 55s.

 In the meantime, it occurred to me that I had a set of Riv's Tektro 720s 
 on a project bike. So I re-read the Riv blurb on them, and liked it, 
 especially since I'm running a relatively new set of touring 45s under the 
 P65s.

 And so... I installed the 720s this afternoon and gave them an 8 mile 
 loop. Very, very, nice. 

 Will

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 5:03:05 PM UTC-5, Kurt Manley wrote:

 In addition., while I have canti's on three bikes I have been lusting 
 after the improved power of v brakes. I'd take Pauls recco and go Moto lite

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:59:39 PM UTC-7, Kurt Manley wrote:

 What type of brake levers are you planning on running? 
 The motolites that Paul recommended are long pull, all the others are 
 short pull. The mini motos are designed so you can run a linear pull brake 
 with an sti or other short pull lever without using an adapter. Unless 
 you're running short pull levers I'd do motolites with matching long pull 
 levers if you want v brakes. If you already have levers then look at the 
 mini moto. 
 I have Paul neo-retro (wide canti's) and shimano cx-70s on two different 
 bikes and while the pauls look nicer I have to deflate the tire to remove 
 it. The cx-70s work pretty much the same but I don't have to deflate to 
 remove. This might not seem like a big deal but it's a pain. And this is 
 from someone who almost never put's his bike in a car. 



 On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 3:00:20 PM UTC-7, Will wrote:

 I have a new-to-me Atlantis that needs brakes. I've just installed P65 
 Longboards and am thinking about either Paul Touring Cantilevers or Paul 
 Mini-Motos. 

 Any/all experience is solicited. I want to get this right. 

 Thanks

 Will



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[RBW] FS: Nitto Noodle handlebar, 42 cm, $50 shipped CONUS

2015-03-28 Thread Patrick Moore
From the Ram.

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circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
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*Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

*The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante

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Re: [RBW] Re: f/s Thomson Masterpiece 27.2 x 240mm zero offset seatpost

2015-03-28 Thread Ron Mc
excellent David - glad you like it.  

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 2:16:59 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Delivered today, thanks! That thing is freaky-light! Love having it on my 
 Salsa as I can get away with the scarring. Too much beasuage for a Riv! :-)

 On Fri, Mar 20, 2015 at 6:49 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 done here - thanks !


 On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 5:53:49 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 This is a good deal for someone willing to live with a scarred post - no 
 burrs or rough spots, but has some nasty lighting bolts and vertical lines 
 in the finish.  
 Had it on my Moser road bike and it should have worked, but continued to 
 squat on me, and got marked up having to pull it back up on the side of the 
 road.  
 (Finally solved that problem with a Super Record quill post.)  
 Tried using this on a new bike, where it clamped Perfectly, but that 
 bike badly needed offset.  
 This is the lightest alloy seatpost made, all one-piece machined 
 (nothing pressed), and weighs a published 157g (lighter than some carbon 
 posts)
 http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=seatposts
 Max height is 175mm
 Nominal new price is $150, best new price is $120 incl shipping.  
 I'll sell this one for $45 including priority mail.  


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/F%20Moser/post.jpg

 please reply offline
 thanks for looking

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 Cheers,
 David

 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



  

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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Garth

You can ride any tire you want  , it's just a say 28mm tire won't be so 
comfy ;) .   Just because a frame can take wide tires and most appear to 
ride them means nothing .  It's your bike, your ride , your life , your joy 
:)

   That said, on my Bombadil I ride Vittoria Voyager Hypers in the 38/40mm 
width, about 39 actual on Mavic A719's.  These are a light, supple sweet 
riding and zippy tire.  They're like super size supple road tires .  Many 
here like their Compass tires also FWIW, I've not ridden them nor likely 
will try them any time soon .  I've grown rather fond of black sidewalls 
with reflector strips !  

  If you're not familiar with the Bombadil , it's the tank before the Hunqa 
tank came out . ...  . lol . 

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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
I ride mostly all on road too.  These tires would be suitable for dry non 
technical dirt trails of course also. I run them between 40-50 psi . 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread DSat
I enjoyed the comparison of the Clem and Hunq.  Nice layover.  Just out of 
curiosity, what size Hunq was compared to the Clem 52?  I ask because I 
have been communicate with Riv and 2 of the choices that I have been given 
is a 52 Clem and a 54 Hunq.  They say that the Clem 52 would give me a 
couple of CM of extra standover height.  Still trying to decide between the 
Clem, Hunq, and Sam.  I was just trying to determine if spending the extra 
money on the Hunq was worth it or not.  I know the Hunq has nicer tubing, 
lugs, and paint which drives up the price.  

My big issue is that I'm a tough fit due to lack of flexibility and I have 
slightly shorter arms than a male of my height.  My PBH is 83.  I wonder 
which one would give me the most options of seat heights and bar heights. 
 I almost think that the Clem would.  I seem to like my bars 2 to 4 inches 
above seat level, but yet not where I'm sitting straight upright.  For a 
visual (just viewing the seat and handlebars), the pic of the 59 Clem 
Anthracite looks like what I am trying to achieve in terms of bars above 
seat level and distance from seat to bars.

To do that on the Hunq and Sam, I'm afraid that I would need to get the max 
sized frame which would allow the least standover height which then would 
limit how wide of a tire that I can use.  Anyone know the max standover 
height on the Hunq size 54 with the widest accepted tire?  Anyone know the 
max standover height of the Sam 55 with the widest accepted tire? 

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 1:52:49 PM UTC-4, DSat wrote:

 Anyone can compare the two that has had experience with one or both?  
 What's different?  What's the same?  Ride the same?  Ride different?  One 
 heavier vs one lighter?  One more upright than the other?  I know the Clem 
 is designed for swept back bars such as the Alba's or Bosco.  I know the 
 Hunq would be 700 tires vs 650 for the Clem.  I know the Clem has longer 
 chainstays.  What would be the reason to spend the extra $$$ for the Hunq 
 over the Clem?
 I am talking the Hunq 54 vs the Clem 52 (though that probably don't matter)
  
 Any input appreciated.


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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Will
I can't answer that precisely. But can get you closer. I have an Atlantis, 
running 44s-45s. The bike is well behaved and fast. My 559x45s roll faster 
than my son's 700x35s. Meaning when we are riding together, coasting on 
downslopes, I always catch him. We weigh the same (within about 5 pounds) 

Both bikes are running tires with similar tread, i.e. smooth surface. 

Based on Atlantis, I would not go into the 30s for a tire. I'd get 
something slick in the mid-40s. Kojaks come to mind. There are a number of 
choices. If the Hunq rides like an Atlantis, I would not hesitate to 
commute with it, in fact I would prefer it. 

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:25:56 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 I read a piece on the Internet a couple of days ago in which the author 
 swapped the 50-something tires on his Hunq for 38s or 40s.  He wasn't into 
 single-tracking and was trying to make the bike into a better (read faster) 
 commuter.  Has anyone in the Group tried the thin tire route on a Hunq and, 
 if so, what were your impressions?
 All the best,
 Kevin


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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
One way to find out!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
The standover height of my Hunqapillar and Quickbeam in 90cm and my PBH is 
90 cm, and I do just fine, including bikepacking on very rough terrain with 
the fattest tires I can get on there with the Hunqa. I think you'd be 
delighted with either and you should go with the one that you want. The 
Hunqapillar has plenty of flexibility and can easily be set up the way you 
describe.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
I forgot to add that one of my possible plans for riding up Pikes Peak is 
the Hunqapillar with Barlow Pass feather light tires (38mm). I expect the 
Hunqapiller will ride beautifully with that setup.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread dougP
Is there a limit to how high the bars can be above the upper headset 
bearing?  The further they are above the bearing the greater the forces on 
the bearing from handlebar leverage.  

dougP

On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless 
 floor model road bikes when assembling? 

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by? 
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models? 

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than 
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill 
 stems. 


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[RBW] Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Marc Irwin
I used Conti contacts and marathon 
Dureme, both were 38-4mm, before switching to 50 mm Big Ben.  I think the Big 
Ben are faster as well as more versatile.  Something like a 35mm Pasela might 
be interesting, buyIng wouldn't want anything narrower.

Marc

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
Tom and James,  I remember I even called Surly to confirm it was not a typo 
as it did not make any sense , they said to just use a higher angle stem or 
an additional riser .   Well, I thought, that's nobody I want to do 
business with .  It kinda negates some of the benefit of the threadless 
concept . 

I reminds me how the mainstream bike biz has not changed it's ideas of fit, 
it reminds me of the 70's , lol. 

Come to think of , has anyone seen a large production bike(other than Riv) 
of any kind with a tall steering tube with lots of spacers or really high 
front end  ?   I've looked through endless google photos and have not found 
one !  


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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Zack
aeropress, trangia kettle and windscreen, an actual ceramic mug, porlex 
grinder.  

don't forget matches or a lighter!  

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Garth
If there is Doug, it's gotta be pretty high !  Look at Bike Friday type of 
bike for example , the bars are way higher than on any road bike !   Tiny 
frame, huuuge steerer !  




On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:26:37 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:

 Is there a limit to how high the bars can be above the upper headset 
 bearing?  The further they are above the bearing the greater the forces on 
 the bearing from handlebar leverage.  

 dougP



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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
When I first saw your (very cool) overlay, I thought about wheel size 
discrepancies.  I have a folder full of Hunq pics and I'm going to say the 
Hunqapillar is a 51, which has 26 wheels.  The 54cm Hunq's have a much 
smaller gap at the top tube-head tube-down tube junction, due to the longer 
fork.  The 52cm Clem would have 650B wheels so there should be a noticeable 
difference in the wheel sizes if the bikes are sized correctly.  



On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:00:32 AM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:

 I don't know, it's the smaller Hunq frame pictured on the product page, 
 and so either a 51 or 54 at that size. Since I didn't know for sure, I 
 sized things more off the pedal and crankset instead of the seat tubes, 
 there's definitely some margin for error involved. If anyone know what size 
 the single TT Hunq pictured on the product page is I can probably do a more 
 accurate overlay for sizing, but as this one is let's say it's an idealized 
 apples to apples if you had a Hunq in the same frame size as the medium 
 Clem, just to illustrate how close the main triangle geometries really are 
 and the versatility the Clem /should/ theoretically offer if you, like me, 
 would rather shoot for typical Riv touring than cruiser.

 I'm not nearly as expert as the other dudes on here for sizing. Based on 
 the geometry comparisons and theory, the Hunq has a shorter chainstay and 
 will seem to be more responsive to turning because it will follow your 
 weight quicker, the Clem has much longer ones and will want to track 
 straighter which to me is appealing for commuting and carrying loads, and 
 then there's the top tube being slightly shorter on the Hunq which if I'm 
 interpreting the expanded frame theory right means the handlebars should be 
 able to start just slightly lower on the Hunq than the Clem for the same 
 reach, but unless your saddle is all the way forwards it's probably not a 
 big enough amount to matter. A 6 degree rise for 2cm longer hypotenuse 
 shouldn't add too much height to the head tube, but it will add some.



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[RBW] Re: Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread dougP
Just an aside:  it's funny that here 38-40 mm tires are on the narrow end 
of the spectrum.  My Atlantis came with 35 mm Paselas, and I recall reading 
somewhere that the bike was designed for tires in the 35-50 mm range.  
Since then, 38-40 feels like the optimal size and looks perfectly normal.  
While I'm not aware of the referenced article, a lot depends on what tires 
are being compared, not only their size.  If the Hunq rider replaced say a 
50 mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus with a 38 mm Soma C-line or one of the Compass 
tires, the difference would be huge in both comfort and general zippiness.  

dougP

On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 11:25:56 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 I read a piece on the Internet a couple of days ago in which the author 
 swapped the 50-something tires on his Hunq for 38s or 40s.  He wasn't into 
 single-tracking and was trying to make the bike into a better (read faster) 
 commuter.  Has anyone in the Group tried the thin tire route on a Hunq and, 
 if so, what were your impressions?
 All the best,
 Kevin


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Re: [RBW] FS: White Industries freewheel 19t

2015-03-28 Thread Patrick Shea
Hey Chris:

Have you sent the freewheel?

Cheers,
Patrick

On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 11:41 AM, Christopher Murray 
chrispmurra...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's yours!! Send me your info and I'll reply off list.
 chrispmurra...@gmail.com

 Thanks!
 Chris

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Beth H
The shop where I bought my Disc Trucker doesn't cut steerers at all until 
fitted and sold, and then they really encourage leaving an extra inch and a 
half to two inches extra, just to be sure before making it shorter.

Exactly. This makes a lot of sense to me, especially for buyers who know 
they won't be leaning over terribly far.
Beth

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Jim M.
This is my favorite coffee 
maker: 
http://www.bialetti.com/www.bialetti.com/coffee/stovetop/moka-express-c-1_7_22.html

If I was doing a longer trip, I take something lighter, but for a coffee 
excursion it packs fine. 

jim m
wc ca

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 8:41:28 AM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:

 Im gearing up to do this activity on the weekends. I'm wondering what 
 people use for coffee outside, and a list of items one shouldn't leave home 
 without. Add your photos as well. Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Bill Lindsay
A wee dram of whisky couldn't hurt

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS 58 cm Cromo Bosco BullMoose bars

2015-03-28 Thread Richard Rios
Hi Peter,

Have you sent the bars or can you please provide me with an update?  It has 
been about a month and a half since I paid you. I have been trying to 
contact you and haven't heard back.

Thanks,
Richard

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:41:47 AM UTC-8, Peter M wrote:

 All good, PayPal at this address with your address when u get a chance. At 
 work, cant talk bikes, haha. 
 On Feb 18, 2015 12:37 PM, Richard Rios richard...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Hi Peter

 I am interested in the bars. I apologize for the post as I Don't know how 
 to pm from my phone. Please feel free to contact me at 909 910-7424 as 
 to where I can send PayPal payment.

 thank you,
 Richard

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Jeremy Till
The vast majority of production bikes come with pre-cut steerers, and how 
much they are cut depends on the manufacturer.  Generally it's rare to have 
more than 40mm of adjustment above the headset upper.  In fact, the fork is 
usually fully installed, and all we do at the shop is maybe install the 
stem and assure proper headset adjustment.  I usually like to move the stem 
to its highest possible setting (top of the spacer stack, flipped for 
rise).  

The QBP brands (Salsa and Surly) are a notable exception, with every size 
coming with a fork that has yet to be installed, with the steerer uncut and 
without the star nut not pressed in.  When I was service manager at a shop, 
I mandated that we leave the steerers uncut on these bikes.  However, that 
does make things difficult with a lot of customers who don't understand how 
threadless forks work or why anyone would want to run their bars that high. 
 Their aesthetic first impressions (all too often a critical part of bike 
buying) are totally thrown off by the spacer stack, and if they test ride 
the bike with a normal stem height they're unnerved by the extra spacer 
stack above the stem threatening to poke them in the solar plexus. So, 
there are downsides for the retailer who leaves them uncut. 

Yes, Rivendell avoids all this with 1 threaded headsets and quill stems 
but from a mechanical perspective, threadless is really superior.  With 
steel steerer tubes there is no practical limit to how high you can run the 
bars above the headset.  In fact, a high bar setup feels much more solid 
with a threadless stem than with a quill stem, and headset adjustment is 
far easier.  Of course, as James and others have pointed out, achieving 
Riv-esque bar height with a threadless setup requires slightly more 
deliberate choices on the part of the bike designer and bike assembler.  

With carbon steerers becoming de rigeur on high-end bikes, there is much 
more of a practical limit on how high you want to run a stem.  I'm sure 
different manufacturers would say different things but I would never want 
to run a carbon fork with more that about 40 or 50mm of spacers max.   



On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless 
 floor model road bikes when assembling? 

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by? 
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models? 

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than 
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill 
 stems. 


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[RBW] Re: I think I'm underutilizing my Bosco bars...

2015-03-28 Thread hsmitham
That was fun! Let's see BMXers do some of those stunts. And she did it with 
heels! Thanks Aaron.

~Hugh

On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 11:30:08 AM UTC-7, A. L Young wrote:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQBbHzypBro

 Riv content: a golden bicycle, of course.

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


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[RBW] Re: The aftermath of my recent car vs. bike hit and run.

2015-03-28 Thread lungimsam
God bless you, David! I will be praying for you and your family.
Don't worry about the bike. You can always buy another bike. But the world 
will never have another David Spranger! So I am glad you are on your way to 
recovery! May it be speedy and full!
 

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[RBW] compass tires

2015-03-28 Thread Madam Xylene
I was told by compass that the wider tires were expected in summer 2015. Eileen

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[RBW] Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Kellie
Im gearing up to do this activity on the weekends. I'm wondering what 
people use for coffee outside, and a list of items one shouldn't leave home 
without. Add your photos as well. Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread Deacon Patrick
For absolutely best quality without consideration for space, aeropress with 
the stove of your choice. However, I use a Helix coffee cone with a fabric 
filter, Ocean Air Cycles has 
them: http://store.oceanaircycles.com/products/helix-coffee-dripper. It 
tastes nearly as good and is ridiculously light and compact. Cleaning the 
filter is a bit of a pain, but I'm going to take two fabric filters next 
time and rotate them so one can dry and thus clean easier. I brew into a 20 
oz. insulated Klean Kanteen (more double use). 

I generally do coffee only when bikepacking, so my Firebox and Klean 
Kanteen work great with minimal space and multiple uses. Photo of the water 
boiling here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/16919782195/

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
IME, relying upon one (or two, or three...) aspect(s) of the geometry never 
really translates to real-world behavior.  Patrick and others touch on this 
above. 

Back when low-trail was in fact the New Low Trail™ I was lucky enough to 
have a few longer conversations with Grant about the urge to swap out forks 
on Riv models.  Or the push to just offer it with a different fork.  While 
it would be difficult to distill all the topics covered, one major take 
away was an awareness of how many small factors add up to the ride of a 
given bicycle. 

For example, riding one of the Appaloosa models is nothing like what it 
appears from a side view.  I've ridden a number of long bikes (Big Dummy 
style) and there was none of the rental truck navigation required to 
maneuver it .  It was a bike designed for a specific posture that rode like 
a Rivendell. Which, yes, I realize does veer to the realm of non-measurable 
perception.  

But, over the past years, GP has quietly developed a model which works with 
upright non-racing bars, but behaves like a bicycle you want to ride, not a 
cruiser or hauler or some almost-a-bike derivation.  The branch of the 
Mystery Bike / Appaloosa / Cheviot / Clem is certainly interesting. 
Deciding which model is right for your needs probably has a lot to do which 
what other bicycle (if any) might be available.

Great discussion!

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Tom Harrop
Garth, I found that aspect of Surly's sizing quite puzzling... I was 
looking at an Ogre in XXL for a while but in fact you can't get the bars 
any higher on an XXL than on a small. An extra 50 mm on the steerer and I 
would probably have bought one. It makes very little sense to me, but I 
guess that's threadless land for ya!

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Zed Martinez
I don't know, it's the smaller Hunq frame pictured on the product page, and 
so either a 51 or 54 at that size. Since I didn't know for sure, I sized 
things more off the pedal and crankset instead of the seat tubes, there's 
definitely some margin for error involved. If anyone know what size the 
single TT Hunq pictured on the product page is I can probably do a more 
accurate overlay for sizing, but as this one is let's say it's an idealized 
apples to apples if you had a Hunq in the same frame size as the medium 
Clem, just to illustrate how close the main triangle geometries really are 
and the versatility the Clem /should/ theoretically offer if you, like me, 
would rather shoot for typical Riv touring than cruiser.

I'm not nearly as expert as the other dudes on here for sizing. Based on 
the geometry comparisons and theory, the Hunq has a shorter chainstay and 
will seem to be more responsive to turning because it will follow your 
weight quicker, the Clem has much longer ones and will want to track 
straighter which to me is appealing for commuting and carrying loads, and 
then there's the top tube being slightly shorter on the Hunq which if I'm 
interpreting the expanded frame theory right means the handlebars should be 
able to start just slightly lower on the Hunq than the Clem for the same 
reach, but unless your saddle is all the way forwards it's probably not a 
big enough amount to matter. A 6 degree rise for 2cm longer hypotenuse 
shouldn't add too much height to the head tube, but it will add some.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread James Warren

I know.

People say that with threadless, you can certainly get high bars; just leave 
the steer tube long. If it's steel, you can spacer it up to the moon, so they 
say. But in practice, I've noticed that the production bikes, no matter how 
many X's there are on the L, are made so that the bars still don't go that 
high. My XL Niner is an example. Rivendell is a notable exception, even on 
their rare threadless models. They keep the high bar a priority. (Also, what I 
consider too low has gone up in the last 15 years.)

-Jim W.


On Mar 28, 2015, at 8:43 AM, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Garth, I found that aspect of Surly's sizing quite puzzling... I was looking 
 at an Ogre in XXL for a while but in fact you can't get the bars any higher 
 on an XXL than on a small. An extra 50 mm on the steerer and I would probably 
 have bought one. It makes very little sense to me, but I guess that's 
 threadless land for ya!
 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- 700x33






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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread cyclotourist
I wish Surly would have proportionately taller head tubes on their bikes.
They are across the board 20-30mm too short IMHO. The 60cm Crosscheck for
example has a 160mm headtube. To my way of thinking, that should be 190mm.
180 would be a good compromise. Then you could get rid of 30mm of spacers
on the steerer, which would help it look cleaner and less hacky.
I guess they don't want to alienate the 'Slam dat stem' crowd... :-)

On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 10:18 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:

 The vast majority of production bikes come with pre-cut steerers, and how
 much they are cut depends on the manufacturer.  Generally it's rare to have
 more than 40mm of adjustment above the headset upper.  In fact, the fork is
 usually fully installed, and all we do at the shop is maybe install the
 stem and assure proper headset adjustment.  I usually like to move the stem
 to its highest possible setting (top of the spacer stack, flipped for
 rise).

 The QBP brands (Salsa and Surly) are a notable exception, with every size
 coming with a fork that has yet to be installed, with the steerer uncut and
 without the star nut not pressed in.  When I was service manager at a shop,
 I mandated that we leave the steerers uncut on these bikes.  However, that
 does make things difficult with a lot of customers who don't understand how
 threadless forks work or why anyone would want to run their bars that
 high.  Their aesthetic first impressions (all too often a critical part of
 bike buying) are totally thrown off by the spacer stack, and if they test
 ride the bike with a normal stem height they're unnerved by the extra
 spacer stack above the stem threatening to poke them in the solar plexus.
 So, there are downsides for the retailer who leaves them uncut.

 Yes, Rivendell avoids all this with 1 threaded headsets and quill stems
 but from a mechanical perspective, threadless is really superior.  With
 steel steerer tubes there is no practical limit to how high you can run the
 bars above the headset.  In fact, a high bar setup feels much more solid
 with a threadless stem than with a quill stem, and headset adjustment is
 far easier.  Of course, as James and others have pointed out, achieving
 Riv-esque bar height with a threadless setup requires slightly more
 deliberate choices on the part of the bike designer and bike assembler.

 With carbon steerers becoming de rigeur on high-end bikes, there is much
 more of a practical limit on how high you want to run a stem.  I'm sure
 different manufacturers would say different things but I would never want
 to run a carbon fork with more that about 40 or 50mm of spacers max.



 On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 9:38:07 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 How do you determine where to cut the steerer tubes on your threadless
 floor model road bikes when assembling?

 Is there a standard human bar height that works for everyone shops go by?
 Do you cut them higher for LHTruckers and other touring models?

 My local shops cut low but sometimes they do some a little higher than
 usual. Was wondering. With RBW bikes, we have slot of options with quill
 stems.

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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Tom Harrop
Nope! I looked and looked for something I could get the bars high enough on 
to use as a mountain bike, because at the time I couldn't afford a second 
Riv. My conclusion was Riv or custom (I didn't really look at 
oingo-boingos, though...). I suppose a custom fork with a long steerer for 
a Surly or Singular would've worked too. In the end I got lucky and scored 
a second-hand Bombadil frame on the Large Bicycles list.

On Saturday, 28 March 2015 17:29:51 UTC+1, Garth wrote:

 Come to think of , has anyone seen a large production bike(other than Riv) 
 of any kind with a tall steering tube with lots of spacers or really high 
 front end  ?   I've looked through endless google photos and have not found 
 one !  


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[RBW] Re: Coffee Outside

2015-03-28 Thread velomann

First step is to get out there. trial and error will teach what works for 
you.
I've used lots of stuff for Coffee Outside, biking, backpacking, car 
camping. My current rig is an alcohol-fueled popcan stove  (well, Guinness 
can actually...)  Snowpeak pot for boiling, and Snowpeak folding filter 
holder with Chemex paper filters. Coffee is usually Water Avenue, but we're 
so so spoiled with good beans here in PDX, so sometimes Extracto, or Coava, 
or Ristretto. Recently discovered Roseline coffee and their Colombia sun 
dried single estate beans may be my new favorite. Ground with the Porlex 
mini.
But I recently started using an Aeropress too, and admit it is an awesome 
machine and brews a splendid cup.
Sometimes I use a Snowpeak GigaPower stove when I'm feeling lazy - tiny and 
light and pumps out the BTUs. And sometimes I use the GSI collapsible 
silicon filter holder. 
On the subject of filters, Stumptown put a number to the test including 
different brands of paper (they like Hario) as well as the Able stainless 
cone and Aeropress filters (two different meshes) and posted the results on 
their blog. Makes for interesting coffee-geek reading. 
 http://stumptowncoffee.com/facts-coffee-filters/

Mike M

ay, March 28, 2015 at 8:41:28 AM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:

 Im gearing up to do this activity on the weekends. I'm wondering what 
 people use for coffee outside, and a list of items one shouldn't leave home 
 without. Add your photos as well. Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Fund my Clem sale!

2015-03-28 Thread Wayne Naha
Let the discounting begin!  Also, my wife thinks that the purple cranks are 
keeping folks from loving this bike.  I told her no way that's true.  But 
if you want, I bet with the application of some elbow grease and scotch 
brite pads, you could take that color right off.  Lets say $700.00 for the 
complete bike, or make me an offer for the frame.

On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 12:01:19 PM UTC-4, Wayne Naha wrote:

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Wayne Naha
Very cool overlay, well done.  Your comparison of the frame geometries 
seems spot on.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 2:27:15 AM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:

  The poor man's Hunq. 

 I did the best I could to compare the Hunq and Clems at similar sizes. If 
 both of them are running the same size cranks (and since they have the same 
 pedals and /those/ sized to match correctly, I feel they are), this should 
 be a mostly accurate comparison of the two geometries at roughly comparable 
 sizes. It's closer than you'd think seeing them built up as differently as 
 they are.



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[RBW] Re: Bike shop mechanics answer this:

2015-03-28 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
It's been a few years, but we never touched 'em until the bike was sold. 
Most were supplied with an appropriate set of spacers so you didn't have 
to. IIRC, if there was  more than an inch or so left to spacer-ize, that 
was rare.   They were generally supplied with a specific tube length from 
the manufacturer.  They weren't supplied full length as you would find 
with a fork only. 

- Jim / cyclofiend.com


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[RBW] Wtb paul motolite v brakes or similar

2015-03-28 Thread Michael Gasparino
Hey friends,
Just curious if anyone has a set of paul motolites that aren't being used or 
something similar in the linear department. Not a big fan of canti's really. 
Plus I just like the looks of v brakes. Let me know
Mike

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[RBW] FS: Nitto, Brooks, Mavic, Mafac, Sugino, MKS more!

2015-03-28 Thread Ant Ritchey
Spring cleaning!

Nitto Noodle 48 wide, very good condition  $45
Mafac Racers, front  rear, complete w/ mafac-branded front  rear cable 
hangers.  Good condition.  $40
Shimano 105 road brake levers, silver w/ black hoods.  Good condition.  $10
Shimano cassette, 8 speed, 12-23.  Very good condition $10
Brooks B17 Imperial, black, hardly ridden, excellent condition $80
Tektro TRP silver drilled alloy brake levers, very good condition  $80
1 Jack Brown Blue, worn but with life left $15
Tektro Interruptors, silver, excellent condition  $20
Mavic Open Pro Wheelset, laced to Shimano Ultegra 6600, 32 f  r, 126 rear 
spacing, very good condition $125/set
Rivendell's Silver Hupe, the one and only $25
Sugino XD2 Crankset, double 175mm, no rings, very good condition $30
Nitto 65 Crystal Fellow 27.2 x 210mm, lower 95mm scuffed, otherwise very 
good condition $40
Nitto Technomic 5, 26.0 clamp, some scuffs but good condition $30
MKS Sylvan track pedals, very good condition, $15
Sturmey Archer 5 spd wheel w/ indexed thumb shifter, X-RF5 (W) hub, 36 hole 
laced to Araya AR-713 rim, black, Newbaum's tape, 18 tooth cog $150 (happy 
to break this wheel down to save on shipping if you're strictly interested 
in the hub, cog  shifter)

Trade interested icluding but not limited to aluminum heat treated 
Albatross, King Iris cages, Park Truing stand 2 or 2.2, Nitto Tallux 6, 7 
or 8, Schmidt Edulux II  SON hub, HA Rack Sackville Bags, Carradice Bagman 
support, 700c Compass tires, Sugino XD2 165 or 170 triple or wide low 
double.

Prices do not include shipping.  Open to reasonable offers.  Paypal 
preferred.  Pics upon request, via email or text (72fore 7fiiive7 935ate  
lemme know you're a RBW/BOB).  Apologies for the redundancy in cross-posts 
to the sister lists. A lot of this stuff is posted to PDX OR Craigslist.  
Feel free to come check the stuff out in person- I'm in Northeast Portland, 
Oregon.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread cyclotourist
That's an awesome overlay!

On Thu, Mar 26, 2015 at 1:30 PM, Zed Martinez iamzedmarti...@gmail.com
wrote:


 The Clem is a much more laid back, cruiserish, town bike. Upright is way
 upright. Stays are extra long. I think it could handle anything, but it
 wont be quick doing those things.
 Clearances- easier on the Clem, but similar


 I haven't touched either in person, so, I can't say with confidence. But,
 I keep calculating out the geometries on these too, and I think the only
 thing that really makes the Clem seem more laid back and cruiserish is just
 that it's how they keep building them. The frame angles are pretty much
 identical. The head tube might be just a bit more slack, but it's hard to
 tell since the margin for error when calculating these things from
 measurements is outside the .5 degree range that matters. The biggest
 difference is that the Clem has a 1-2cm longer top tube and the longer
 chainstays. Those don't have to mean cruiser/town. Heck, it looks like the
 reach from the sit point of the saddle to the stem on the 52cm demo bike
 built as a townie is exactly the same as on my current camping bike
 converted from an old road frame with a standard touring stance, despite
 the old bike I'm using having a much, much shorter top tube. So, I think
 just looking at the geometries on the frame it ought to be plenty flexible
 for uses outside just being a cruiser/townie style. Probably still a little
 more laid back about it, but with a short reach stem and saddle forwards I
 don't think it'll be that much different. Mostly it just seems like a
 longer, cheaper Hunq. Heck, that's how I've started thinking about it as I
 compare the geometries. The poor man's Hunq.

 I did the best I could to compare the Hunq and Clems at similar sizes. If
 both of them are running the same size cranks (and since they have the same
 pedals and /those/ sized to match correctly, I feel they are), this should
 be a mostly accurate comparison of the two geometries at roughly comparable
 sizes. It's closer than you'd think seeing them built up as differently as
 they are.

 http://zedmartinez.com/samples/clem-hunq.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: f/s Thomson Masterpiece 27.2 x 240mm zero offset seatpost

2015-03-28 Thread cyclotourist
Delivered today, thanks! That thing is freaky-light! Love having it on my
Salsa as I can get away with the scarring. Too much beasuage for a Riv! :-)

On Fri, Mar 20, 2015 at 6:49 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 done here - thanks !


 On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 5:53:49 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 This is a good deal for someone willing to live with a scarred post - no
 burrs or rough spots, but has some nasty lighting bolts and vertical lines
 in the finish.
 Had it on my Moser road bike and it should have worked, but continued to
 squat on me, and got marked up having to pull it back up on the side of the
 road.
 (Finally solved that problem with a Super Record quill post.)
 Tried using this on a new bike, where it clamped Perfectly, but that bike
 badly needed offset.
 This is the lightest alloy seatpost made, all one-piece machined (nothing
 pressed), and weighs a published 157g (lighter than some carbon posts)
 http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=seatposts
 Max height is 175mm
 Nominal new price is $150, best new price is $120 incl shipping.
 I'll sell this one for $45 including priority mail.


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/F%20Moser/post.jpg

 please reply offline
 thanks for looking

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[RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

2015-03-28 Thread Jim A
It is indeed 1 threadless. Slightly strange choice. But I have built up a 
couple of the frames and like them. 

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 1:25:21 PM UTC-7, Eddie Flayer wrote:

 it says 1 inch headset, so must be 1 inch threadless steerer. If in doubt, 
 send them an email.

 On Friday, February 14, 2014 at 7:40:06 PM UTC-8, eflayer wrote:

 http://newalbioncycles.com/
  
 Makes me wonder if, or the degree to which, Grant Peterson may be 
 associated with these bikes. Not sure how they are differentiated from 
 Soma, but some nice stuff coming.



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[RBW] Re: I test rode the Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Braxton Colagross
Because the seat lug is the same on all sizes? Seat stay angle can't change 
so the stays curve. Maybe throw in a little Grant likes to do 
strange/interesting things every now and then. 

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 1:26:00 PM UTC-7, Philip Kim wrote:

 I noticed the chainstays have a slight bend to them. Did you happen to ask 
 Grant why that was?


 On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 3:21:27 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I rolled by RBW HQ this morning and got to test ride a 52cm Clem.  I've 
 always felt lucky that I'm pretty much exactly Grant-sized.  Turns out 
 today I got to ride Grant's Clem prototype, and didn't even have to change 
 saddle height.  It's terrific.  It rides how I expected it to ride, meaning 
 it disappeared, made me smile, and made me reluctant to return it to them.  

 I don't know if I will pre-order, but if I do, the $150 they are paying 
 me to adopt early will go towards a set of Bosco Bullmooses.  That's the 
 bar for that bike.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA




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[RBW] Thin Tires on a Hunqapillar

2015-03-28 Thread Kevin Lindsey
I read a piece on the Internet a couple of days ago in which the author 
swapped the 50-something tires on his Hunq for 38s or 40s.  He wasn't into 
single-tracking and was trying to make the bike into a better (read faster) 
commuter.  Has anyone in the Group tried the thin tire route on a Hunq and, 
if so, what were your impressions?
All the best,
Kevin

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread Zed Martinez


 The Clem is a much more laid back, cruiserish, town bike. Upright is way 
 upright. Stays are extra long. I think it could handle anything, but it 
 wont be quick doing those things. 
 Clearances- easier on the Clem, but similar 


I haven't touched either in person, so, I can't say with confidence. But, I 
keep calculating out the geometries on these too, and I think the only 
thing that really makes the Clem seem more laid back and cruiserish is just 
that it's how they keep building them. The frame angles are pretty much 
identical. The head tube might be just a bit more slack, but it's hard to 
tell since the margin for error when calculating these things from 
measurements is outside the .5 degree range that matters. The biggest 
difference is that the Clem has a 1-2cm longer top tube and the longer 
chainstays. Those don't have to mean cruiser/town. Heck, it looks like the 
reach from the sit point of the saddle to the stem on the 52cm demo bike 
built as a townie is exactly the same as on my current camping bike 
converted from an old road frame with a standard touring stance, despite 
the old bike I'm using having a much, much shorter top tube. So, I think 
just looking at the geometries on the frame it ought to be plenty flexible 
for uses outside just being a cruiser/townie style. Probably still a little 
more laid back about it, but with a short reach stem and saddle forwards I 
don't think it'll be that much different. Mostly it just seems like a 
longer, cheaper Hunq. Heck, that's how I've started thinking about it as I 
compare the geometries. The poor man's Hunq. 

I did the best I could to compare the Hunq and Clems at similar sizes. If 
both of them are running the same size cranks (and since they have the same 
pedals and /those/ sized to match correctly, I feel they are), this should 
be a mostly accurate comparison of the two geometries at roughly comparable 
sizes. It's closer than you'd think seeing them built up as differently as 
they are.

http://zedmartinez.com/samples/clem-hunq.jpg

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[RBW] Re: Hunq vs Clem

2015-03-28 Thread ian m
The Hunqapillar is an off-road tourer meets mountain bike. To me the Clem 
seems like the perfect budget/production version of the same concept. Long 
chainstays/wheelbases have been popular on off road bikes since their 
inception and are good for stability on descents and, depending on who you 
ask, just fine for climbing. In my opinion the Hunq is the early Breezer or 
Ritchey to the Clem's early Stumpjumper. I for one fully plan on riding my 
Clem with bullmoose bars and rock  road tires and not as an upright townie 

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 10:52:49 AM UTC-7, DSat wrote:

 Anyone can compare the two that has had experience with one or both?  
 What's different?  What's the same?  Ride the same?  Ride different?  One 
 heavier vs one lighter?  One more upright than the other?  I know the Clem 
 is designed for swept back bars such as the Alba's or Bosco.  I know the 
 Hunq would be 700 tires vs 650 for the Clem.  I know the Clem has longer 
 chainstays.  What would be the reason to spend the extra $$$ for the Hunq 
 over the Clem?
 I am talking the Hunq 54 vs the Clem 52 (though that probably don't matter)
  
 Any input appreciated.


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