[RBW] Re: NAHBS Gus photos

[Ryan M.]

I would want a wider rim than a cliffhanger for a 2.8. I have cliffhangers on 
my Appaloosa and run the 57mm schwalbe g one on them and that is staring to get 
a bit Balloon-like and I would think trying to get a larger tire on a rim like 
the cliffhanger would run into issues clearing the v-brake arms.  The 
cliffhanger is not rated for a 2.8 tire, so I would think a new rim would be in 
order.

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[RBW] NAHBS Gus photos

[Ryan M.]

That Gus looks pretty sweet.  I wonder what rims these are going to come with 
when they are finally up for sale. 

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Re: [RBW] NAHBS film photo challenge

[Ryan M.]

Great shots! 

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[RBW] Re: Buy a Clem (from Rivendel) and get a $750 store credit(!)

[Ryan M.]

Amen to that, Chris. 

I'm saving for a Gus and don't have the scratch to get a Clem even though I 
could totally use it as a knock about trail bike. 5 months ago I would have 
pounced on the deal. As it is now I have three bikes up for sale and the 
wife told me to get rid of them before I get another one tootiming just 
never works out for me. haha

On Sunday, March 17, 2019 at 4:12:19 PM UTC-5, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> Kind of a bummer for me. The Clem H is probably the bike I'd most likely 
> want to buy from Riv now, but I'm awash in bike projects and low on bike 
> funds! The timing of these kind of deals never seems to work out.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 12:19:12 AM UTC-4, LeRoy wrote:
>>
>> Yep, just like it sounds. Here is what Grant Peterson says in his latest 
>> Blahg (emphasis in bold added). If I didn't have one, I'd get one. Act now!
>>
>> *CLEM H's are incredible bikes, Hillybikes, All-Rounders, tourers, 
>> commuters. Dialed in, super values, and they aren't selling. We're not 
>> going to do them again,which seems nuts to me when I look at all the 
>> mainstream bikes that do sell for more and aren't as good, but that's just 
>> me.* 
>>
>> *Nevertheless, we're in a spot and we need to move 20 of those. Need to. 
>> We have 45s for most riders up to 5-6, 52s for most riders up to 5-11, and 
>> 59s for most riders up to 6-4. Complete except for saddles. This is a more 
>> comfortable, useful, better designed, better riding bike than most bikes in 
>> the world, and we need to sell 20. Here's an incentive: The first ten 
>> people to buy one between now and the end of the month will get $750 store 
>> credit.   *
>>
>> *If you have a Clem H, you know what a great bike it is, and don't get 
>> mad that you paid more. Mourn us for having to do this and rejoice in the 
>> bargain your comrades are getting. If you don't have a CLEM H, but want a 
>> rough-stuff, toury-trail-towny bike, holy cow, a good time to get one.*
>>
>> *And all orders received on Sat and Sun (the 16th and 17th will get free 
>> shipping and a $10 credit toward a future order  placed within a month.*
>>
>> *I hate this stuff, but this is the reality, and it's a good opportunity. 
>> For those who read the BLAHG.*
>>
>> *We (and certainly I) have a lot to be thankful for. I don't mean to 
>> sound desperate, just want to get over a hump we got here.*
>>
>

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[RBW] How much extra chain for an appaloosa?

[Ryan M.]

Okay, here is the deal. I'm redoing my Appaloosa right now with a 10 speed 
Shimano XT shifter and derailleur, Shimano 11x36 rear cassette, front is 
the Silver 38x24 crank using a new Sram PC 1051 chain...This bike was setup 
as a single speed (well, two speed) before this and that chain was an 8 
speed and it won't work.

How many extra chain links do you think I need to borrow off a friend's 
pile of slightly used chains to get it to fit the longer than normal 
chainstays of the Appaloosa?  I don't want to seem to greedy by grabbing 
all of his old chain. lol. 

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[RBW] Roadeo Build Options

[Ryan M.]

When I had my Roadeo I had it with a modern Ulegra 11 speed group, a threaded 
headset and a modern set of wheels built by Rolf. The bike ride great and I 
never had one issue out of it. I can’t really fault the Ultegra for anything as 
it was a smooth shifting group that gave me a few years of trouble free 
service. I have since sold the bike though, as I don’t ride on the road 
anymore. 
 
I like modern shifting so much more than downtube shifting which, IMHO, the 
only real benefit is being a bit easier to set up.
The Roadeo is a great bike no matter what way you have it built up.

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[RBW] Crust Towel Rack Drops on Your Riv? Which stem are you using?

[Ryan M.]

I have a Crust Towel Rack that I am planning on installing on my Appaloosa 
tomorrow if I can figure out where I put my brake levers. When I ride it some I 
will let you know how it is. 

I’m planning on a short stem for this, an 8cm dirt drop...if I had something 
shorter on hand I would go with that. The real issue is that the reach on the 
Appaloosa is a bit long for drops, and I’m not a flexible long torso kind of 
dude, so I need to get them a bit closer and higher than I normally would. 

It’s a wide bar that seems to be well made, so I’m excited  to try it out.  I 
may not like it though, and if not I’ll go back to the bullmoose bars and maybe 
try to fit the crust bars on my Niner.

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Grab Sack

[Ryan M.]

I sent you an email with some pictures attached from my phone. I have no 
idea if that worked or not. lol

On Friday, March 1, 2019 at 5:24:37 PM UTC-6, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Anyone have one of these sitting around collecting dust?
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Grab Sack

[Ryan M.]

I do. It's a brown one and I haven't really used it as much as I thought I 
would. Shoot me an email if you are interested in it. 

On Friday, March 1, 2019 at 5:24:37 PM UTC-6, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Anyone have one of these sitting around collecting dust?
>

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[RBW] Re: Compass Antelope Pass 700 x 55: the fat tire arms race continues

[Ryan M.]

I got the Schwalbe G-One Allround 650bx57 tire mounted to Velocity 
Cliffhangers to fit in my Appaloosa so I don't see why the Compass Antelope 
Pass tires wouldn't. 

I have the Antelope Pass tires on my Niner Sir9 right now and they honestly 
look a bit thinner than the Schwalbe G-ones. I think they would fit well on 
the Appaloosa. 


On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 8:03:00 PM UTC-6, Tim Bantham wrote:

> Does anyone know if the AH will fit on the Appaloosa? I thought a 50mm 
> would be about the max. Maybe the 55mm AH can still squeeze in? 
>
> On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 8:42:47 AM UTC-5, Friend wrote:
>>
>> I'm very tempted by these for my new Joe Appaloosa.  It will be these or 
>> the 45mm Compass's...  
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 12:16:48 AM UTC-5, Adam Leibow wrote:
>>>
>>> everybody, it's Antelope *Hill*, not pass. Here is my clem L w/ them. 
>>> These tires would not fit on any Sam Hillborne - for the Sam you need the 
>>> Snoqualmie Passes. These AH are incredibly nice. Here they are on deer park 
>>> on mt tamalpais. 
>>>
>>> [image: 46300772855_5feaa1657c_k.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, June 5, 2018 at 8:48:35 AM UTC-7, Neil Doran wrote:

 Just when you thought Compass was out of fat-tire ideas, behold: 
 https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/tires/700c/compass-700c-x-55-antelope-hill-tc/

 I seem to recall Jan stating that 700c tire fatness is optimal at about 
 35mm, and that going wider is...sub-optimal? Maybe he will chime in here.

 I can't imagine many non-disc-brake frames fitting these monsters, but 
 I wonder if I could squeeze them into my Sam with sidepull 559s. It will 
 only cost me a small fortune to find out.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: this photo, from the blahg, 2/19/2019...

[Ryan M.]

This is a great shot that shows a lot of what, I hate to call "the 
Rivendell philosophy" of riding is. 

I would love to know if this was shot on film or digital and converted to 
b 


On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 1:25:51 PM UTC-6, Neil Doran wrote:

> I could not resist bringing this photo to the attention of the Bunch. Hope 
> G doesn't mind me pillaging his work, but i think he appreciates knowing 
> folks read this stuff.
>
> The peculiar specificity of this image is very appealing. 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: this photo, from the blahg, 2/19/2019...

[Ryan M.]

I got a friend who told me he looks at every hill as a challenge, and if he 
doesn't make it up he concludes the hill beat him. He's a very competitive 
type of person and climbing a hill on a bicycle is a competition. It's a 
very negative way of looking at it, IMHO. I mean, sure, you get the bliss 
of knowing you bested a hill when you make it up, but you turn that ride up 
the hill into merely a challenge to conquer and you miss all the beauty and 
serenity of the area you happen to be in. The only goal is to get up it, 
instead of enjoying the ride (or walk) up it. 

I've turned into one who has no problem walking up hills, especially the 
bad ones. Sometimes I will give it my all, make it a contest, and grunt my 
way to the top, but I much prefer the other way. 

On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 5:46:35 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:

> A few lines down, he mentions "I am big into walking up hills, as you can 
> see,".  I used to beat myself up if I didn't ride every foot of the way, 
> then finally figured out walking worked pretty well.  Instead of gasping 
> for air & grunting while staring at the front tire, I could look around & 
> enjoy the scenery at a leisurely pace.  Walking avoids all the hazards of 
> wobbling, stalling out, falling over, etc., while working a different set 
> muscles.  Heartily endorse.
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 11:25:51 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote:
>>
>> I could not resist bringing this photo to the attention of the Bunch. 
>> Hope G doesn't mind me pillaging his work, but i think he appreciates 
>> knowing folks read this stuff.
>>
>> The peculiar specificity of this image is very appealing. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ultra Romance and his Rivendell Atlantis.

[Ryan M.]

Is there some sort of history with Ultraromance co-opting queer culture or 
a bunch of straight white shirtless guys riding bikes? I'm intrigued. 


day, January 8, 2019 at 11:42:45 AM UTC-6, Justin, Oakland wrote:

> Bene has been a Riv rider for a long time and is what the kids call an 
> Influencer. I have lots of issues with straight white shirtless guys on 
> bikes but UltraBromance has done a lot of good for the cause of practical 
> bikes with fat tires and mismatched drivetrains. He’s also not orthodox so 
> he’ll use disc brakes and clicky shifting. I’m glad that most of ironic 
> co-opting of queer culture has vanished and now he just rides cool bikes 
> and sells well-thought out goods. 
>
> Ignore the marketing and focus on the wares.

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Re: [RBW] Ultra Romance and his Rivendell Atlantis.

[Ryan M.]

I have 650b x 2.25 Schwalbe G Ones on my Appaloosa and they fit fine. The 
Ikons aren't particularly knobby so I bet they would work. 

On Tuesday, January 8, 2019 at 10:48:55 AM UTC-6, Derek Atkins wrote:
>
> As the owner of a double top tube Appaloosa, I am a little jealous of the 
> swoopy double on the Atlantis. Does make me want to throw some Ikons on 
> though. Anyone know if the Joe can clear those 2.2s? 

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[RBW] Ultra Romance and his Rivendell Atlantis.

[Ryan M.]

Check out this Radavist article. 

https://theradavist.com/2019/01/ultra-romance-and-his-rivendell-atlantis-mountain-bike/?no_cache=1=IwAR2wUcRjIMLbddCD5n4U4xA6rikEuINj9y-XjlIZfnJOQgsysE7OwTA6N4o#1

Yes, you can ride a Rivendell like an MTB and have a ton of fun doing it. 
Man, I wish I were tall enough to get a second top tube Riv, because I 
think they look awesome. 



This is a great setup for an off road Rivendell, but I would go with a 
Cambium saddle instead of a leather one, personally, but whatever. I 
haven't used drop bars on an off road bike except for cyclocross stuff, and 
those bars I've always felt were too narrow. Not these; check out the width 
of the bars...just wonderful. I have to try and get a similar bike together 
as I just bought a set of these bars in 615 length. I was thinking about 
installing them on my Appaloosa but I'm really digging the Bullmoose bars I 
have on it right now. 

Huh, might need another frame now. 


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[RBW] Re: Another Riv Financial Situation Thread

[Ryan M.]

Those people on that forum don't seem like the target market for a company 
that pushes an Unracer philosophy...I don't think they really get Rivendell 
as a company. The gift certificate stuff has been going on since I've known 
about Rivendell; it's nothing really new. I take issue with the thought 
that Rivendell is missing out on the current "gravel" trend. Riv has never 
been into racing or competition or "suffering" and that is exactly what the 
gravel trend has become. Rivs are for the people who want to ride 
everywhere, comfortably, carrying stuff that they need. 

I do think Riv is missing the ball with keeping rim brakes on the new Gus 
Wilson, which is supposed to be a mtb/trail bike. It's really going to 
hamper rim availability; there are a ton of really good disc specific rims 
available, and I can see no reason to stick with rim braking in 2019. That 
type of braking is not only dead on trail bikes, but the bones have decayed 
to dust by now. But, that is just me digressing. 




On Monday, December 31, 2018 at 4:13:01 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> A few days ago over on the Paceline forum, in response to a recent Riv 
> email about a slow holiday season they've restarted the "Riv Saved For Now" 
> discussion.  https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=218496=4 
> starting at post no. 51
>
> I'm a bit surprised there's been no discussion of the subject here.  
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How do you track your mileage?

[Ryan M.]

I stopped tracking mileage a few years ago but I do track TSS and some 
power data when and if I'm actually training. For that I use TrainerRoad 
which recently included a nice calendar feature that combines outside rides 
with your trainer riding. Since they did that it is a one stop shop for me 
when it comes to ride data, gps routes, power data, and weekly TSS. 

To get the outside rides imported into TrainerRoad I use a Garmin Fenix 5 
watch which uploads to Garmin Connect and Strava, but I haven't looked at 
either of those sites in while. 

I was never a huge Strava lover and put my profile onto private about a 
year ago. What I found when I was using Strava was that the ride became way 
more about the numbers and competition with local riders than I ever 
wanted. I couldn't help, didn't like the social aspect of it, so I stopped 
looking at it. 

On Saturday, December 15, 2018 at 4:15:22 AM UTC-6, Surlyprof wrote:

> Bill’s thread on cycling goals made me realize that I don’t have an easy 
> and consistent method of tracking my mileage.  With the new year upon us, 
> I’d like to find a good way to track bike mileage across 3 bikes that I 
> ride pretty evenly.  So, how do you all track your mileage on the bike? 
>  I’m looking for any suggestions for products, cel phone holders, apps, 
> websites, whatever will make it easy to track over the year across multiple 
> bikes. 
>
> Thanks. 
> John

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[RBW] Disc brakes

[Ryan M.]

Theoretically, with enough money you could do it but the bike is not designed 
for them.  If you really want a disc bike there are a bunch of them that will 
ride great. 

I’m of the opinion that disc brakes are superior in every way, and I freakin 
hate screwing around with cantis but I will do it if I have toI would never 
modify a current canti bike to take discs though.

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[RBW] Different bars make a different bike.

[Ryan M.]

I was out riding the Appaloosa today and thought I’d do a small experiment. 

I switched the Choco-moose bars to Bullmoose bars at the trailhead today, which 
was made easy by having slip on grips. With the exception of making the brake 
housing too long (but still working) the installation was a breeze. I fix those 
cables tomorrow. Anyway, I rode a little with the choco bars, switched and rode 
a lot with the bullmoose which really gave me a good comparison between the two 
bars and how the bike handled with each.  

The verdict? 

The bullmoose wins for the type of riding I do. They allowed me to feel more 
connected with the bike when riding on the trail and gave me the perfect reach. 
The choco bars, while comfy and have an extra hand position, put my hands into 
a position that less confidence inspiring and I think the main position comes 
back too far for me. 

Bottom line, it’s important to try out different bar setups because you never 
know what will feel right.

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[RBW] Re: handlebar/stem bags - what do people like?

[Ryan M.]

I throw a Pentax MX with a 50mm f1.4 lens into my Sackville banana sack 
that is mounted on the choco moose handlebars on my Appaloosa and it seems 
to work well. I have a tube stuffed in the bottom of that bag for 
emergencies and it does a pretty good job of padding the camera.

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 11:13:54 AM UTC-5, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> What do folks like for handlebar/stem bags, especially ones that can hold 
> an SLR with short lens? I missed the boat on the Riv product a while back.
>
> I have a Carsick Designs stem bag that I love, but it is first gen meant 
> only for a bike water bottle. Need bigger.
>
> Randi Jo looks great, just not sure it is wide enough. I'm sure I would 
> not regret the purchase, tho.
>
> Revelate seems to be a standard-bearer, and apparently has one-handed 
> operation, which seems slick.
>
> Any opinions out there?
>

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

[Ryan M.]

My first Riv was an orange canti post Hillborne that must have been some 
sort of prototype or something because it did not have a serial number on 
the bottom bracket. I bought the frame when they had some sale years ago, 
so I guess I'm in the double top tube category even though I'm too short to 
get a double top tube. That's about when I got back into biking after a 
decade of not and I found out about Rivendell. Prior to that I rode a '96 
specialized stumpjumper which I still have and a Trek FX, which was a 
really good bike.

Second Rivendell was a Roadeo, then an Atlantis, now all three are 
sold. This past year I purchased an Appaloosa and have set it up for gravel 
riding. My riding has changed over the years (first mtb, then road riding, 
and am now primarily a dirt rider)...I would really like a Bombadil. I 
should have bought one way back when. I'm all about the lugs if I'm buying 
an expensive bike, so if it doesn't have them I expect to pay less. I do 
dig the long chainstays for gravel riding and they aren't terrible on the 
singletrack I ride either. 

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 6:55:34 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson 
wrote:

> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or 
> aesthetic most appeals to list members? 
>
> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best? 
> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through 
> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early, 
> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now? 
>
>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and 
>Herons? 
>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your 
>favorites? 
>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco? 
>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker, 
>and a Gus Bootster? 
>
> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era 
> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in 
> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but 
> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

if  I was planning on fitting 2.8's on the Gus, I personally would want a 
wider rim than a 24mm internal width rim. I have put 2.4's on my blunt ss 
rims, but that is about the tire width limit I would want on those. The 
tires just get way too round. Most plus bikes I've seen on the trails have 
much wider internal width rims than 24mm...like 35mm and up. 

I think we will see a new rim for this bike anyway. 2.4s do work okay on 
the Blunt SS and probably on the Cliffhanger. I have 55mm tires on my 
cliffhangers which work well on them. 

On Friday, September 14, 2018 at 10:43:49 PM UTC-5, Collin A wrote:

> Looks different, as all rivendell bikes do. It'll be interesting to see 
> how it rides and what the bike industry will think of it at the trade show.
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/all-about-ebikes
>
> Happy Saturday riding everyone,
> Collin
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Film photography - subject matter?

[Ryan M.]

I shoot Portra 400, Tri X, or HP5 in Pentax manual cameras...got a bunch of 
them. I recently started shooting the Portra and absolutely love it. Sure, 
I have to send it off to develop it but that isn't a big deal. 

I like to shoot festivals, events, protests, ect. with them. Wherever 
humans gather seems to be a good place to get some nice shots and a small 
kit using one short telephoto and a fast 50mm keeps me busy finding shots. 

When on the bike I will take my Pentax MX and a 50mm f1.4 and just shoot 
whatever I see that seems interesting. Depending on the ride that may be 
nothing because I'm more focused on cycling or I wind up stopping all the 
time. 

I always have a film camera when vacationing and will shoot whatever, 
whenever. 

I tend to shoot less frames when using film over digital, but I seem to 
have more fun using the film. I don't know why that is but I think it has 
to do with deliberately slowing down and being choosy because the equipment 
forces me to. (motordrives don't belong on film cameras. ;) lol) 


On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 11:41:14 AM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

> I marked this OT, but changed my mind, since Grant writes about and shoots 
> analog film.
> My question isn't about gear (no surprise if it goes there, though), it's 
> about subject matter. I have cameras, and film, and some okay ways to carry 
> them on the bike (suggestions there couldn't hurt).  
>
> What I'm looking for is inspiration as I build myself a rule-set for a 
> film photography project. On my morning commutes, I've been keeping my eye 
> out for "what would I shoot if I were shooting film" moments. 
>
> 1. What do you film photographers shoot when you shoot film? Do you 
> approach it differently than phone camera or digital shooting?
> 2. Do you cycle to shoot, or is it a wholly unrelated hobby? 
> 3. Anybody shoot color? I want to do this now, since a friend develops 
> color at home using a sous vide (cooking) setup to control temps.
>
> Please link to your images, if you care to share. I'd really like to see 
> what the film folk are doing.
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Problem with Roadinis?

[Ryan M.]

I'd be interested to hear the tire and wheel differences in your two 
builds. 3 to 5mph seems excessive, but not if we are talking knobby on 
heavy wheels vs. slick on light wheels. Also, are the fits that much 
different?  If your body sits a lot differently on the Riv compared to the 
Soma you can be killing off some power potential. (I seem to be suffering 
from this on my cross bike which I just cannot get fit to me 
properly...probably will be on the lookout for something different this 
winter.)

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 9:34:41 PM UTC-5, G.E. wrote:
>
> Just thought I'd throw in my experience, for what it may be worth. 
>
> I currently own a Roadini (non-orange) and have owned a Soma ES in the 
> past (also had a Riv-made-for-Soma San Marcos). I am a vertically 
> challenged rider, so my experience may not be the same as someone who rides 
> a more standard size; however, comparing the 47cm Roadini to the 46 (now 
> 48) cm ES, the Roadini fits me better, but I both felt and physically was 
> faster on the ES - significantly faster (averaging 3-5mph faster on 20-40 
> mile rides). The Soma geometry seems to not be quite right for me so that 
> my body sits in a rather odd position with pedals too far behind me. The 
> Roadini is more comfortable, which in theory allows the body to handle 
> longer distances, but the slower speeds leave me frustrated on many rides. 
>
> My ES was actually set up with "worse" parts than the Roadini (the ES was 
> equipped with Sora level components while the Roadini is built with 
> Ultegra), but the ES was a speedier ride, even with the lower level 
> components. So, depending on what I was looking for, and assuming that 
> Soma's geometry works for the rider, I wouldn't necessarily be against 
> purchasing a Soma. Though with that said, I wouldn't reject the Riv either 
> as others that I've heard from haven't had the same experience I've had and 
> sometimes comfort is more important to the rider than the speedometer. :)
>
> On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 8:28:37 AM UTC-6, Alan H wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Looking for some feedback from folks here about the orange Roadinis.
>>
>> Last week I placed an order for one of the new orange Roadinis in a size 
>> 50 (thanks to my darned 80 cm pbh). After a week without any news from Riv 
>> (and having my cc charged), I called to find out when the bike would ship. 
>> I was told that they had received a lot of orders and were running a light 
>> crew because of Interbike and that my bike would pack and ship yesterday 
>> (Friday).
>>
>> Yesterday I got a call from Vince saying that there was a problem. He 
>> told me that the brake bridge on the orange Roadini frames was in the wrong 
>> place and that standard road brake calipers wouldn't work. While he told me 
>> the frame would work with longer pull brakes (like Tektros or Pauls), 
>> frames with the correct brake bridge wouldn't be back in until December.
>>
>> Needless to say I'm a little disappointed and frustrated, especially 
>> since I logged on here today and saw folks talking about their new orange 
>> Roadinis. Has anyone else gotten a similar story from Riv? 
>>
>> On a related topic, since I'm apparently not getting a Roadini, does 
>> anyone have experience with Soma's road frames? In particular I like the 
>> look of the Stanyan 
>>  in pearl 
>> white. It has a geometry similar to their ES model and is a fully lugged 
>> steel frame at a very attractive price point. The Roadini was obviously my 
>> first choice, but I wonder how the Soma stacks up in terms of build and 
>> ride qualities.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for you input!
>>
>> -Alan
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo (to me)

[Ryan M.]

When you order a Roadeo frame you can request downtube bosses be added. I 
opted not to have them on mine since I knew I would be running index 
brifters all the time.

On Thursday, September 20, 2018 at 6:06:08 PM UTC-5, sameness wrote:
>
> That's a reeeally good looking rig! I can tell you put a lot of thought 
> into the build.
>
> (As an aside, I had no idea that the Roadeo doesn't have DT shifter 
> bosses. Guess I never noticed. You'd think of all their frames, this one 
> would?)
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

My prediction is simply that rim brakes won't be making a come back, not 
that they will go away completely or disappear. I do not think rim braking 
will go away, especially with regards to road riding. I'm going to keep my 
argument centered around off road riding or gravel stuff because that is 
where I prefer to ride and where I see quite a few advantages for disc 
braking. I agree, I think small makers will cater to the market for those 
who prefer rim braking. I simply don't prefer rim braking after using both. 

Hey, I got Velocity Blunt SS on my Niner turned to gravel duty. Those rims 
are great; can't say anything negative about them. I have had 0 issues out 
of those rims (paul disc word/fhub hubs) and predict I'll be riding that 
setup for many years problem free.  

But, I'm probably going to be purchasing a Gus. I like the bike and think 
that setup with something like a Jones Bar or Wavie Bar, it will be a 
really good bike for the off road stuff I like to ride. The braking system 
on it are not a deal braker (pun intended). 

On Wednesday, September 19, 2018 at 6:21:32 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I say that you're prediction is wrong.
>
> Distinction: Rim brake market, and rim brake advantages. The market may or 
> may not survive -- I think there remains enough demand that manufacturing 
> will survive healthily, at least among small makers for the aficionado 
> crowd; I'll bet Rivendell and Compass, to name just 2, will continue to 
> make rim brakes of one sort or another.
>
> Advantages: Rim brakes have this advantage, that they work *unimprovably* 
> for many, if not most uses, and they are cheaper (well, count Compass out 
> on this one) (heck, count Riv out too), but they are simpler, lighter, 
> modulate better than many if not most or all mechanical discs (I can't 
> speak to hydraulic ones), allow flexible forks, and in the eyes of some, me 
> included, look better. Point: They have no disadvantages for many uses, and 
> some real advantages.
>
> I like discs; hell, I like the ancient BB7, at least the Road model that 
> came out circa 2015 -- there are better ones on the market, but these BB7 
> Roads work so well that I personally haven't sufficient motive to change. I 
> know Jan pooh poohs mechanical discs, but he's just plain wrong on this 
> matter. But calipers and V brakes and even cantis if someone else beside me 
> sets them up just work so well that I can't see the entire global 
> population giving them over for discs.
>
> I like discs for riding where conditions accelerate rim wear -- dirt 
> riding, rain riding (last hypothetical); and I like discs because they let 
> you use strong rims that are yet very light (case in point, Velocity Blount 
> SS). 
>
> Now, if you were to assert that, say, rod or stirrup brakes would 
> disappear, I'd agree, but the Bowden cable freed us from that particular 
> tyranny.
>
> Patrick Moore, who spent much time and sweat and physical and mental 
> energy as a boy trying to get rod brakes to work *well.*
>
> On Wed, Sep 19, 2018 at 11:08 AM, Ryan M.  > wrote:
>
>> My prediction...rim brakes are not going to make a comeback...not in 
>> mountain biking (or "hillbiking"). There just isn't any real good reason to 
>> use a rim brake over a modern disc brake today given that there is a 
>> definite performance advantage and a huge supply of products available at 
>> all price points and most work very well. I mean, I'll buy a bike with 
>> canti posts and ride it happily, but it is not my preference. It's not a 
>> deal breaker but I don't see canti posts and think "so awesome!"
>>
>> I have always thought mechanical disc brakes worked about the same as a 
>> v-brake (hydros being a different conversation) with regards to 
>> power, modulation and setup until I used a Paul Klamper. That brake is so 
>> freaking easy to set up; it's powerful; it feels really good in use and I 
>> just don't know why I haven't been using it on every bike I can. Anyway, I 
>> don't want to turn this thread into a canti-vs-disc argument. I got my 
>> preferences, for sure. 
>>
>> I'm sure someone will make a rim compatible with this bike and it's need 
>> for a rim braking surface for a long time; I wouldn't worry about that. 
>> Choices will be less, of course.
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 19, 2018 at 11:13:31 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>>
>>> I personally wouldn't worry much about the rims if they potentially were 
>>> something that could be more popular in the future. Examples: moustache 
>>> handlebars, normal width 650B rims, etc., but I am guessing 2.8" tires will 
>>> require a wider rim be made. Plenty of them in all diameters, un

[RBW] Re: comparison: Marathon vs Compass

[Ryan M.]

The compass tires are pretty great. I got a set of Antelope Hill tires on 
my Niner that is set up tubeless as a "gravel" bike and have been really 
enjoying them; the bike seems more lively and just more fun to ride. I 
haven't had a flat yet...tubeless seems to take care of a lot of the flats 
I used to get. 

On Wednesday, September 19, 2018 at 7:19:41 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> Those of you who know me know how much I hate flats & like chubby tires.  
> For many years now, I've been a big proponent of the Schwalbe Marathon 
> Supreme as a nice balance between heft & performance.  The development of 
> wider, supple tires seemed an interesting option.  When Compass began 
> offering larger sizes, and Jan wrote about numerous off pavement 
> adventures, it seemed like something worth considering. But the $160 for a 
> bikesworth put me off a bit.  A while back, I got a pair of used Snoqualmie 
> Pass Extralights from a list member.  This allowed me to do a back to back 
> comparison to see what all the excitement was about.  
>
> Well, the results are in & I'm impressed by the real difference in ride 
> and performance.  For ages, I've run 700 x 40 Marathon Supremes on Mavic 
> A-719 rims.  They measure an actual 40 mm @ 50 psi, and the advertised 
> weight is 490 grams, at a retail price (non-tubeless) of $76.
>
> I've been running Marathon Mondials for the last few months.  They are 
> noticeably harsher riding and slower to roll up to speed than the Supremes, 
> as you might guess from their advertised weight of 650 grams.  They measure 
> 40 mm, same as the Supremes.  Current retail on Schwalbe's site is $84.  
>
> Switching from the Mondials to the Snoqualmie Pass Extralight was a 
> revelation.  Smoother, softer ride and much quicker pickup from a stop.  
> Compass claims 329 grams, and they measure 43 mm @ 50 psi on the A719 
> rims.  I will need to do some serious thinking when these wear out.
>
> The big unknown is flat resistance.  I don't mind the odd flat from time 
> to time, but I recall the days of light tires that seemed to constantly 
> flat that lead to my aversion of the chore of fixing.  These days, my 
> riding is mostly on paved roads that are in good condition so it's a pretty 
> easy on tires, and it's unlikely I'll do any more major tours.  As long as 
> the flat issue is under control, I'll be looking at Compass for my next 
> pair.
>
> dougP  
>

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[RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

My prediction...rim brakes are not going to make a comeback...not in 
mountain biking (or "hillbiking"). There just isn't any real good reason to 
use a rim brake over a modern disc brake today given that there is a 
definite performance advantage and a huge supply of products available at 
all price points and most work very well. I mean, I'll buy a bike with 
canti posts and ride it happily, but it is not my preference. It's not a 
deal breaker but I don't see canti posts and think "so awesome!"

I have always thought mechanical disc brakes worked about the same as a 
v-brake (hydros being a different conversation) with regards to 
power, modulation and setup until I used a Paul Klamper. That brake is so 
freaking easy to set up; it's powerful; it feels really good in use and I 
just don't know why I haven't been using it on every bike I can. Anyway, I 
don't want to turn this thread into a canti-vs-disc argument. I got my 
preferences, for sure. 

I'm sure someone will make a rim compatible with this bike and it's need 
for a rim braking surface for a long time; I wouldn't worry about that. 
Choices will be less, of course.

On Wednesday, September 19, 2018 at 11:13:31 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:

> I personally wouldn't worry much about the rims if they potentially were 
> something that could be more popular in the future. Examples: moustache 
> handlebars, normal width 650B rims, etc., but I am guessing 2.8" tires will 
> require a wider rim be made. Plenty of them in all diameters, until you add 
> rim braking capability and then it drops to none, one, two(?).
> Of course who knows, rim brakes might make a comeback!?
> Even when it comes to regular 650b rim brake rims pickings are slim; I 
> presume they are prolific enough between retro bikes & modern recent 
> offerings to always be available, but who knows?

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[RBW] FS: Swift basket bag, fillet bullmoose

[Ryan M.]

I’ll take the bull moose bars!

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[RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

A Riv can still be ridden quick, and of course can be built many different ways 
to capitalize on efficiency; the owner doesn’t have to build the bike as a 
cruiser.

I do understand your point though. I have to put some thought into this new 
one, as I was hoping for a Rivendell to ride on my local mountain bike trails 
which I frequent. I’m not sure if this will work for me though as our trails 
have short but steep ups and downs and twist their way through the woods rather 
than flow. Details of the final design and a peek at the geometry will help the 
decision. 

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[RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

And you could run hydros with the super awesome full housing routing. 

I really like the curved top tube. 

I just showed my wife this bike...she wants one. Lol

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[RBW] Re: Billie Bar vs. Jones Loop H-Bar

[Ryan M.]

I stuck a Jones bar on my single speed mountain bike and totally love it. 
The 45 degree bend is awesome and the bar gives quite a few different hand 
positions. I really like the loop area for a small front bag too. The 710 
version of the loop bar has a lot of real estate so you can ride normal 
with your hands on top of the brake levers or scoot far back for a pretty 
upright position. 

Haven't tried the billie but it doesn't flair out as much as the Jones. On 
a bike meant for off road riding, I would rather have the flair. My 
Appaloosa has Chocos which basically come straight back. I like that for 
greenway riding and more casual/touring stuff. 

On Monday, September 17, 2018 at 12:09:19 AM UTC-5, Jake P wrote:

> In the most perfectly 'Grant' fashion, the dimension descriptions of the 
> Billie are more about ~feel~ than anything else. Which I really appreciate, 
> but I've never ridden an Alba so I don't have much of a starting point to 
> base his descriptions on. 
>
> Can anybody who's ridden both a Jones Loop H-Bar and a Billie comment on 
> the ride quality/ ~feel~ differences between the two? 
>
> If anybody has both bars and can photograph them on top of each other to 
> show differences in the dimensions (grip area length, bar angle, width etc) 
> I would be greatly appreciative as well!!! Thnx

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Re: [RBW] Re: New "Hill" Bike is Posted

[Ryan M.]

After riding the Appaloosa for a little bit I’m totally sold on the current 
long chain stay thing Riv has going. So far after owning other Riva, the App is 
my favorite Rivendell. 

This Hill bike has some details that I really appreciate for a “mountain bike.” 
 The threadless fork/headset and the full length brake housing are both 
positives for a bike that rolls through the dirt, rock, grass, and mud, which 
is the way I would ride it. I’m very curious to see a geometry chart for this 
bike. It looks like it would make a fine trail riding bike.

That janky brake cable routing in the rear makes me wonder why they would 
insist on canti posts instead of going with a disc brake, at least for the 
rear. With the plus tires one probably cannot use v brakes as the arms won’t be 
long enough, so cantis are the only choice. IMHO it is a poor choice for a bike 
that rolls through the dirt, rock, grass, and mud. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Swift Fabio’s Chest

[Ryan M.]

Hey Drew, 

Can you send me some pics of this?  How do you like the design/useability 
and build quality of this bag?  I'm very curious about these, but not sure 
if it will work with my current bike stable. It might though.

On Thursday, September 13, 2018 at 9:18:53 PM UTC-5, Drw wrote:

> Bought off the list from Ant. I don’t think he ever used it and I just 
> mounted it before realizing it’s too big for me. 
> Size small. Dark olivey color. New condition. 
> 235$ shipped (which is what I paid). 
>
> Pics on request. 
> Info here 
>
> https://ultraromance.bigcartel.com/product/ultaswift-wizard-sleeve-cozy-cave-small

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[RBW] Re: Front vs. rear loads for AHH

[Ryan M.]

I use a Saddlesack banana sack up front on my appaloosa and a medium 
saddlesack on the rear, which gets all the heavy stuff. I just got some 
panniers for this bike but haven't had a chance to use them. bagging and 
racking a bike seems like one of those things that is never set 100% for 
me, and I'm always changing. 

I've never really been a fan of front loading a bike, but I think a person 
can get used to anything when riding. Loading a bike down affects the way 
it rides and sometimes it's negative and sometimes it is positivereally 
depends on the person. I did use a wald basket on my Jamis Aurora when 
living in a city and found it worked very well, and was super convenient 
for that kind of commuting. I just tossed my backpack into it, pulled the 
net over, and rode in happy bliss. 

If I were going to put a rack and a basket on a Hilsen I would probably use 
the Mark's rack and not overload it or a Nitto front rack. I think the 
Nitto front rack that can take panniers is really great looking on a bike 
when not loaded down too, so that does factor into my thought process. My 
appaloosa can easily take a Nitto R14 rack on the front because it has 
those bolts on top of the fork crown...that would be the method I would 
personally choose on my bike. 



On Monday, September 10, 2018 at 10:53:09 AM UTC-5, Jamo. wrote:

> I am in the market for a rack for my Hilsen.  It would be light loads, 
> 10lbs max, and I want to run a basket on it.  I figured people here would 
> have advice/opinions on front vs rear loads on the Hilsen, and maybe even a 
> specific rack recommendation.
>

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[RBW] Re: Tektro TRP RRL vs. Shimano Tiagra type BRL400 brake levers?

[Ryan M.]

They are, in my experience. The trps are a little wider and have that extra 
hand perch up top which is somewhat useful. The button that releases the 
lever is pretty useful, IMHO, especially when hooked up to v-brakes or 
cantis; it just helps put slack in the cables to remove tires. The lever 
portion is a different shape too, but I think that is neither here nor 
there. The Tiagras are less expensive, especially considering you get some 
brake cable and housing with them. 

On Friday, September 7, 2018 at 6:38:22 AM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Riv sells both models. 
>
> The Shimano type has always been good for me but lately my big thumb 
> joints are hurting after riding with them. Maybe I am getting some 
> arthritis in them and the levers are digging into my thumb/index web too 
> much (that’s the joint in there). Also, the Shimanos have that hooked top 
> point that pokes back into that thumb/index crotch when I use the alt grip 
> holding the very tops of levers. Shimanos very narrow width, too. 
>
> Was wondering if the TRP RRL are more hand friendly? 
>
> Anyone can relate their experiences with both?

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[RBW] Re: Sharing a 52 Clem L with my much shorter spouse. Feasable? Crazy?

[Ryan M.]

I can't effectively ride any of my wife's bikes and she really can't ride 
mine and our height discrepancies are less than yours. 

On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 9:49:23 PM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> So, I've never really looked at the Clem L until today, especially not at 
> the geometry chart. Didn't realize the sizes catered to such wide ranges, 
> which of course makes sense with a step-through. Here's the dilemma, my 
> wife is 5'2", just measured her PBH at 73.5 cm. If I was buying a Clem just 
> for her, it would be the 45, no brainer. I'm 5'10", PBH 86.5, so at the 
> high end of a 52. Here's why I want to do it:
>
>
>- My wife doesn't ride *that *often, so it's hard to justify spending 
>Riv money on a bike for her. 
>- I just bought a beautiful, but expensive rando bike, but it almost 
>feels too nice to commute on. I feel like something in a lower price tier 
>would be a bit more freeing. Locking it up outside of a store on the way 
>home, leaving it outside on a slushy day instead of dragging my rando 
>through the office (I'm not locking it outside, period). 
>- Lastly, I just really want a Riv, and I feel like this shared 
>(multi-purpose, minimalist, need I go on?) bike thing could be the ticket 
>with my wife. 
>
> My vision for the 52 Clem L: Foul weather (or just all the time, we'd see 
> how it goes) commuter for me. Then when we go on family rides, my wife will 
> hop on the Clem and I'll take the rando bike.
>
> So what's my reservation? I think a 52 Clem would work just fine for me, 
> and I think my wife could fit it with a slammed seat post, the question is, 
> could I find a cockpit that she could reach that wouldn't leave me feeling 
> squished when I'm riding it?  Thoughts on this idea in general would be 
> appreciated! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: BarSack anyone?

[Ryan M.]

I had this setup on my Sam Hillborne. It’s incredibly well made and totally 
useful.

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[RBW] Re: I'd like some 'splaining: Clem H vs. new Riv MTB

[Ryan M.]

I just hope this new mtb is a trail bike first and foremost and not a 
touring bike with bigger tires. Not that using a touring bike on a trail is 
impossible or anything, just that a bike made for trails will have a 
different geometry, tubes, intended handlebar, bottom bracket height, ect. 
Actually, the bottom bracket height was a huge drawback to using a Sam on 
my local trails, which I tried but didn't like. I could 




>

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[RBW] I'd like some 'splaining: Clem H vs. new Riv MTB

[Ryan M.]

I really, really, really, would love to see lugs everywhere. I love me some 
lugs. 

73mm bottom bracket to run a modern MTB crankset I suppose and a threadless 
steertube. I would think the geometry might be a bit different. 

I’m patiently waiting for this bike. I just sold my Santa Cruz MTB so I can 
pick this Riv MTB when it comes out.

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Ryan M.]

I got a Roadeo to 19 lbs by using Rolf Vigor wheels, Compass Stampede Pass 
tires, Ultegra 11 speed groupset, and a decently lightweight saddle setup. 
I still had a threaded fork and a Nitto lugged stem on that build. Never 
once had a problem with that bike. 

You can lose weight on a bike by not going with a Brooks and instead go 
with a quality modern saddle using Ti rails. I have a Bontrager saddle that 
is just stupidly light, but still tough and comfy. 

Ditch the fenders (just get wet if you happen to ride in the rain), racks 
(use rackless bags), dyno hub lighting systems (bontrager Ion lights are 
light weight and super bright and last), heavy canvas bags (look for modern 
bikepacking bags made of x-pac), get a cassette and crank that are unheavy. 
;)  It all adds up. Just remember that modern groupsets from Shimano, 
especially in the Ultegra/Dura Ace range are really quite light and work 
very well. I got e-tap on my cross bike and the stuff is just amazing and 
not heavy at all. (yes, I would have no problem sticking electronic 
groupset on a Rivendell...it wouldn't be my first choice though. 

My Appaloosa is not built like I just described (no fenders or dyno 
lighting setup, I'm using Cliffhanger rims and Deore hubs, and I have chaco 
moose bars even), but if I were really looking for weight savings you can 
find it in the drivetrain components, wheels, and saddle. 

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 1:56:35 PM UTC-5, Kiley Demond wrote:

> Now that my Riv is Gabriel's Riv, and seeing it stripped down to its 
> original glory, I think about what wasn't perfect and what I would like to 
> do for my next bike, a time-honored technique for dealing with loss; in 
> this case, the loss of a bike. 
>
> I love steel frames. I can't imagine not having a steel bike, but since I 
> am 5'10" (the 91 PBH is the real issue), the frame is large, and even 
> though I am strong, I am still a 60-year old woman. My pimped Cheviot was* 
> heavy.* Getting it up the three steps to my front porch wasn't easy. 
> Given that, what could be done to make one of these bikes lighter? I took 
> Grant's "let's not quibble about weight" philosophy to heart, so when I 
> added some essential accessories, they were all shiny steel. Like stacking 
> tolerances, it all added up. I didn't know much about components when I 
> first got the bike, but I learned from understanding and replacing what I 
> didn't like (and I did end up with the Bosco aluminum bars because they 
> were the "right" size). I could *read* about it, but I really needed to *feel 
> *about it. (Speaking of which, I always thought that a Build-a-Bike 
> program would be a great idea. It is a cross between Build-a-Bear and Book 
> Club; you buy the frame and then learn how to build up a bike, and you can 
> swap out components until you find the ones that work for you. The first 
> class is the theoretical parts discussion over a beer or coffee depending 
> on the time of day, where you pick your frame, and subsequent meetings are 
> building and testing riding.)
>
> *Anyhow*, thoughts on reducing weight on a bike? I figure this needs to 
> be considered at the component level up (or is that down?), if the frame is 
> a given. 
>
> (My next bike will be another mixte or step-thru, which unless something 
> changes in the next two years, will be a Cheviot or L-Clem. I also want it 
> to be e-Bike "compatible". I cannot buy an off-the-rack eBike because no 
> one makes a mixte or step-thru large enough, and I still want the bike to 
> be a pleasure to ride!)
>
> Kiley
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Ryan M.]

My friend has one of those Sams and that color is killer in the sunlight. 

I probably prefer the cream headtube if I had a choice, but will gladly 
take a solid one too. 

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 9:04:08 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

> "Joe, nothing wrong with non-creamy head tubes. My sage Sam looks just 
> fine without one. On the other hand the creamy accents are a nice touch."
>
> Yes indeed, I love the cream accents elsewhere on Clem and Roadini. I 
> remember a run of Sams in (what I called) Vintage Porsche Green that had 
> the accents without the cream headtube and it looked great. 
>

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[RBW] Re: 51cm Appaloosa frame for sale

[Ryan M.]

Sorry, Andrew...I missed your response to the thread. 

We've decided to keep the bike and build it up for the wife. 

I'm not gonna lie...I talked her into it. lol

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 5:38:19 PM UTC-5, Andrew Huston wrote:

> Still have it?  On mobile now and pm never seems to go thru. 

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Ryan M.]

It really does have a great head tube badge. 

Great looking bike, Joe. I really am digging the boscos on that 
frame...looks cool and zippy. 

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 12:57:30 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Btw, I know this is supposed to be a dropbar bike with more seatpost 
> showing, but I highly recommend sizing up and putting sweepy-back bars on 
> for that path racer vibe. Do I have standover clearance? Pfft, no way. It's 
> light and will never have big racks and bags on it, so it's no big deal to 
> tip it sideways for on/off. 
>
> I'm not saying it's the "better" way to size and outfit a Roadini, I'm 
> just saying don't get too locked into "it's a road bike" and miss out if 
> that phrase doesn't fit you. It's light, zippy-yet-stable, great name, 
> great headbadge, and now in a fabulous orange. It's just a great bike, and 
> cheap!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ryan M.]

Something like the Nitto big rack or Surly front rack will handle a loaded 
basket no problem, but the problem I see is that people are sticking that 
kind of load on a small rando rack and then "bikecamping" in some rugged 
stuff and the racks have got to eventually fail. They aren't that strong 
and only have three mounting points. 

I would think something like the Nitto R14 Top Rack would be a really good 
basket rack too. 

- Ryan, who doesn't really get the huge front loading bias that is going on 
now.

On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 10:56:35 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:

> Well, kinda what concerns me is that, if they've had issues with it where 
> does that leave Wald? Most people run racks to support their baskets, 
> because the Wald struts are not up to the task. (Although typically the 
> Wald attaches to the handlebar as well) Still, failure or bending the strut 
> could cause the basket to drop onto the wheel.
> As some have alluded, there's a difference between 20lbs on a fairly 
> smooth surface and heavy  duty offroad. Most of those offroad Tour guys 
> don't use much in the way of racks at all. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ryan M.]

Yeah, I'm not really sure on that. It's certainly "the thing to do" 
nowadays though. 

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:02:58 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Remind me why we're piling cargo on top of a rolling wheel that's also 
> steering?

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Grab Sack and early Hobo bag for sale

[Ryan M.]

I'll take the grabsack. I'm sending you a pm...thanks. 

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:35:33 PM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> The Grab sack is in excellent condition, used very little, is very well 
> made, $45 shipped
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/bags/products/sackville-grabsack-olive
> The Hobo bag has been used a lot, I added the leather when a seam started 
> to split, the two straps to attach to hanlebars or saddle loops are 
> included, $40 shipped
>
> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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[RBW] Re: Sugino wide/low gone forever?

[Ryan M.]

I really prefer the look of the Silver crank myself. It's a really lovely 
crankset.

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 10:20:12 AM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> Or you could get a Silver wide/low.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Steilacoom or Barlow Pass

[Ryan M.]

I would just go with the barlows if you don't find yourself on grass or mud 
and don't ride getting out of the saddle on gravel hills very much. I'm 
riding Antelope Hills on a mtb turned gravel duty and they have been 
fantastic tires except if I get out of the saddle to push up some loose 
gravel. They seem to slip them, but that also has to do with me being as 
graceful as an elephant. The Steilacooms ELs make excellent cyclocross 
tires which is how I've been using them. Muddy, grassy, dirty stuff where I 
run them as fairly low pressure. They grip better than my Clements used to, 
but they also are wider than the UCI accepts. Not at all a concern with me, 
but there is more tread hitting the course than the Clements. I don't 
really ride the Steilacooms on the road too much, but from what I have done 
I've found they ride like a knobby tire rides on pavement, which is to say 
they are noisy. 

I've gone tubeless on both setups and haven't experienced a flat yet. 

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 12:26:49 AM UTC-5, Eric Karnes wrote:

> Hi guys-
>
> I'm investing in some new tires for my paved path / gravel path rambler 
> and wanted to get some opinions. My usual ride for the rambler consists of 
> – surprise, surprise – about 50/50 asphalt and finely packed gravel (with a 
> few rougher sections). Any suggestions on whether to go with the Steilacoom 
> or more conventional Barlows? Do the Steilacooms really perform as well on 
> asphalt as the Compass website claims? Anyone have flat issues with the 
> extra light version of either?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Sackville, Crust fork, Simworks, Zefal etc.

[Ryan M.]

Sent you a pm on both of them.

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 2:23:24 PM UTC-5, Drw wrote:
>
> One final bump before eBay. 
> Med. saddlesack and jandd panniers remain. I have some random goodies I’d 
> be happy to throw In with either sale. 
> Sunrace thumbies, tubes, levers and miscellania

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. H (high top tube) – complete bicycle. Weekend reduction to $975. Bike is now sold.

[Ryan M.]

I’m glad this sold beacause I was minutes away from talking myself into buying 
it and use it as a trail bike.  I really want to get the Riv MTB that is coming 
out though.

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[RBW] Oh the humidity!

[Ryan M.]

I just checked weatherbug and it says our humidity level was 70% during my 
rideI sweat a lot. It did just get done raining and the temps are in the 
low 90s and humidity levels have been high all summer. Still, I think the 
number is high...well, that’s what I’m going with anyway.

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[RBW] Re: Billie Bars?

[Ryan M.]

Does anybody know when the Wavie Bars will be a realty? They could work too. 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

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[RBW] Re: ~2003 Atlantis, 10 months in

[Ryan M.]

Great bike and story...thanks for it. I like the latest iteration quite a 
bit. A nice lugged seatpost or a Paul Component seatpost might give you 
enough setback for your desired saddle positioning. 

On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 1:03:14 PM UTC-5, Gabriel Bruguier wrote:
>
>
> For its 10th mensiversary with me 
> ,
>  
> I wanted to do something special for the bike that has become my favorite 
> bike ever, my first genuine "forever" bike.  I also wanted to post on its 
> progression, and my impressions of it, to give back a little to the group 
> from whom I've learned so much.
>
> The special thing I did was that I had a Chris King 2nut headset and Paul 
> brake levers installed.  Previous parts were Ritchey and Shimano, 
> respectively.  By 'special' I don't just mean higher quality, but also 
> something like that I'm ready to commit.  I'm in it for the long run.  Both 
> upgrades add to the experience.  The Ritchey consistently came loose after 
> any rough riding and so psychologically I felt unease about certain riding. 
>  And the Paul levers mesh perfectly with the touring cantis on the bike.  
>
> The photo of it propped up with a branch is the current setup.
>
> In this setup, it is the first bike I've ever had that "disappears under 
> me".  I've come very close with one other bike, a Ross Signature 292s, but 
> that is a story for another day.  I luckily hit upon a saddle/bar combo 
> that fits me perfectly and works seamlessly with my wheel/tire combo.
>
> I installed a B17 when I first built it up.  I also had 44cm Noodle bars 
> on it.  See this thread for a photo 
> 
>  
> of that setup, and the attached photo with a wheel/tire upgrade (more on 
> that below).  The B17 felt almost right, but just didn't have enough rail 
> space to get it set back to that point where it would be perfect.  I kept 
> pushing myself to the back of the saddle, which was annoying.  I looked 
> into several seatposts with more setback, but never pulled the trigger on 
> one, and so rode the Atlantis less.
>
> In early June I tried an upright setup with a set of VO Klunker bars, 
> thinking that the upright position would work better with the saddle 
> position.  It did, kind of, but I didn't like being so upright on the bike. 
>  I need some "lean" with my bars.  
>
> Somewhere around this time I got myself a C17 cut out saddle for the Ross, 
> and loved it.  It has a little more rail space than the B17, and so I 
> thought, why not try it on the Atlantis?  I hadn't yet given up on the idea 
> of an upright bar, and was intrigued by the upcoming Wavie bar. 
> 
>   
> In that thread, Clayton mentioned a "Simworks bar", so I began 
> investigating and that turned up the Simworks Getaround Bar 
> .  (Also shown in one of the 
> pics looking down, with me waving :))  I got the last one that MashSF had 
> in stock!  When it showed up at my door, the C17 came off the Ross (since 
> replaced by another), I got the longest stem I could find in my parts stash 
> (a 130mm Thomson Elite with 5 degrees of rise), and built it up.  
>
> The results: bliss!  I was gleaming within the first pedal strokes, and 
> was so excited that I rode halfway across town to show a buddy, leaving 
> behind wallet/keys & an unlocked door.  Oops.  Finally my body position 
> felt perfect on the bike.  
>
> The wheels & tires also contributed to the bliss felt on that ride.  I 
> started out with 42 Soma Cazaderos.  Great tires.  But last spring there 
> was a thread about Schwalbe G-ones 
> and
>  
> whether they would fit on an Atlantis.  As seen in the photos, that 
> prompted me to install some 2.1 29er tires.  I was hooked.  I sold a frame 
> and some other stuff here to fund my first hand built set of wheels (shout 
> out to Eric @ Monkey Wrench Cycles! !!!) 
>  and in late March, came into possession of a set of Velocity A23s laced to 
> XT hubs, shod in 2.1 Thunder Burts, all tubeless ready.  The photo of the 
> bike leaning against the wall was from the maiden voyage.  
>
> The Thunder Burts are fantastic tires on this bike!  They are supple and 
> grippy.  Not to mention super fast rolling. I'm so impressed by this 
> frame's versatility as I reflect on how flawlessly it performs regardless 
> of tire size.  In either iteration I can always count on hands free 
> stability, steady straight rolling while descending, and intuitive 
> 

[RBW] Re: Sealant Seepage

[Ryan M.]

Heat could cause this. My wife's tube blew yesterday because she kept her 
bike in the van and it got hot enough to blow out. I could see the inner 
air pressure getting hot enough to allow seepage through the tire. I think 
your pictures are showing the sealant coming through the tires and blowing 
all over by the wind or something. I wouldn't consider it a huge problem 
though. You will probably have to put some extra sealant in there in a 
month or so. 



On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 3:22:34 PM UTC-5, jandrews wrote:

> I should add that I have no idea if the seepage is happening at the 
> rim...I guess it could be coming through the membrane of the sidewall..
> Jeremy's suggestion that the tape is letting sealant flow out through the 
> spoke holes could be the culprit.
> A big part of my query is , Is the weather something that could cause this?
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 4:15:17 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Weird.  It's not unusual for a tire to have pinholes that are slow to 
>> seal up.  I've never heard or rims that are full of pinholes that 
>> consistently leak sealant.  And I can't explain why it would both leak out 
>> and then flatten like a splotch, or stretch out long and thin like a 
>> splatter.  I've never heard of rims being perforated like that.  It sound 
>> metallurgically impossible.  If I was convinced that my rims were full of 
>> holes, I'd try to get them warrantied.  It's definitely bizarre in my 
>> experience.  
>>
>> On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 12:57:51 PM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks Bill
>>> But it's the third time..I did wipe them down and it re-appeared.  It 
>>> all just started happening.  We have had a solid week of rain and then 
>>> every day not raining has been brutally humid and very hot.
>>>
>>> Jason
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 3:50:57 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 To me, those photographs do not look like sealant seepage to me.  That 
 does not look like something leaking out from the tires and rim.  That 
 looks like something splattered on to the tires and rims from some other 
 place.  Wipe 'em off and keep an eye on them.  See if the splatter pattern 
 comes back.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 12:30:43 PM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hi
> I recently dipped my toe into the tubeless phenomenon and had some 
> wheels built by a reputable builder using tubeless Velocity Quill rims 
> and 
> GravelKing SK's in 700x43.
> Over the past week, some sealant has been seeping out of the rim and 
> is showing up in a dried pattern on the rim and tire.
> I did a little research online and others have said that high heat and 
> humidity can cause seepage...and we've had plenty of both the past 10 
> days 
> in New York.
> Assuming everything has been set up correctly, does anyone have 
> experience with seepage that looks like this (pics attached)
> *Note, no pressure (or negligible pressure) has been lost.
> Pics were take while my bike was on hitch mounted car rack.  I cleaned 
> the wheels and it happened again today ..While bike was out of the rack
> Also it's both front and rear wheels.
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Billie Bars?

[Ryan M.]

So, anybody using Billie Bars on their Rivendell, or any other bike, and 
would like to give me their impressions?  I've used Noodles, Albatross, 
original mustache bars, Choco-Moose bars on the Appaloosa, bunch of flat 
bars among others. Right now flat bars are giving me a lot of 
wrist/thumb/arthritis trouble on my mtbs and on drop bars I rarely actually 
use the drop portion so they are almost wasted on me; I do like having 
several hand positions though. 

Here's the deal...I got a Trek Crockett frameset sitting in the garage 
that I'm going to be building up single speed for after work gravel rides. 
The bike will live at my office so I don't have to drag one here everyday. 
Of course, traditionally I would be sticking a set of drop bars on it and 
calling it good, but I've thought about going with something different and 
I would have to get brake levers for drops (I have sweet Paul Comp. flat 
bar brake levers already). Thought about flat bars from one of the mtbs I 
have laying around and am not using but that wrist thing gets in the way. 
Though about something like the Velo Orange Klunker bars, but those might 
rise too much for this frame. So, my searching has led me to the Billie 
Bars that I didn't know existed until about ten minutes ago. They look 
pretty swell, like an upgraded albatross with room in front and behind the 
brake levers. I could get a shim so I can run these with a 30.6 stem, which 
I have already, and go ride around in total bliss. But, I am not sure I 
would like them, hence my asking for impressions and reviews from others. 

thanks!

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[RBW] Re: MIT Homer pre-order

[Ryan M.]

the new Homer looks to be a pretty sharp bike...I dig it. I think it will 
sell quite well. 

On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 8:49:57 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/homer
>
> Looks great.
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks saddle turning into a banana

[Ryan M.]

Maybe someone knows this for sure but I remember a Riv article that showed 
putting some foam underneath the saddle leather to give an old brooks some 
extra body?  You could try that and the lacing and it should be fine. 

On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 10:59:13 PM UTC-5, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have been touring, and yesterday it rained quite a bit. My B17 seems to 
> have developed quite a curve, upsloping front and back, or sagging in the 
> middle. Is this unusual? Is it bad? Just curious about what board members 
> think. Thanks.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem H mustard 52

[Ryan M.]

Nice bike! Man, it’s too bad I’m in the same boat and waiting on the new Riv 
MTB to be released or I would be jumping on this. I finally have my Santa Cruz 
up for sale so if that gets sold I might be able, but I’m in a holding pattern. 
Good luck with the sale.

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[RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Ryan M.]

Not sure how much the Roadeo ever fit into what people think the "Riv 
philosophy" is, but I had a 53cm Roadeo painted orange (since sold on this 
list) with 11 speed Ultegra on it and it was by far my most comfortable and 
fun road bike, plus it was absolutely gorgeous...fast too. The Roadeo had 
great lugs and was built extremely well. I kinda lust after a Legolas which 
I hear is a canti post Roadeo, which I think would make a spectacular 
cyclocross bike but I got some other projects going on and want to get the 
new mtb Riv when it comes out. 

I'd imagine the Roadeo will be like the USA Atlantis and such...special 
order and, of course, more expensive. 

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[RBW] FS: Two Nitto S84 lugged seatposts

[Ryan M.]

Are the lighter one is still available I will take it. I’ll send a pm

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[RBW] FS: A Mid Summer's House Cleaning; Nitto Paul Swift Sackville Revelate vintage XTR

[Ryan M.]

I sent a pm about the neo retro cantis and the Paul levers if they aren’t 
spoken for. I will take them.

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[RBW] Re: FS: A Mid Summer's House Cleaning; Nitto Paul Swift Sackville Revelate vintage XTR

[Ryan M.]

PM sent. 

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 10:55:33 AM UTC-5, ant ritchey wrote:
>
> Updated list of available items:
>
> -Swift Fabio's Chest, large. From the latest run. <25 miles use. Excellent 
> condition. $245
> -Swift Fabio's Chest, small. From the latest run. <25 miles use. Excellent 
> condition. $235
> -Nitto 34f "Big Front Rack", very good condition. Big P clamps for for 
> blade-mounting included. $165
> -Sackville Backabike bags, tans, never used and in perfect condition. 
> $165/pair
> -Nitto Bullmoose, Riv-spec, fillet brazed. Excellent condition. $130
> -Nitto Crystal Fellow 65 seat post, 27.2 X 200mm, very good condition. $50
> -Paul levers, silver. Short pull. New-in-packaging. $100/pair
> -Paul/Nitto canti kit: 2 Neo Retros, silver; 2 Moon Units, silver; 1 pair 
> aul Rack Adapter bolts, 1 Nitto rear cable hanger w/ barrel adjuster. Very 
> good condition.
>  Over $300 worth of beautiful bits here. No pads or straddle wires, all 
> other Paul-specific hardware included. $175 
> -Schwalbe Big Apple 700 X 60, wire bead, good condition. $25/pair
>
>>
>> Prices do not include shipping. Everything will go out USPS 
>> slowest/cheapest to keep the expenses down. Happy to ship via other methods 
>> if you prefer.
>> Paypal preferred, but please factor in & cover fees if you're opposed to 
>> sending the funds Friends & Fam-style. Venmo is cool, too.
>> Not looking for trades with few exceptions - 650b disc wheelset or 
>> road/rando frame for a PBH of 95 (64cm frames need not apply)
>>
>> Thanks for checking it out!
>> -Ant Ritchey / Portland Oregon
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

I have a few droppers on a couple of bikes...Rock Shox Reverbs. They are 
pretty great when I remember to use them. The trouble with the first one I 
got was the push button plunger thingy just wasn't easy to use. It was just 
stiff and my poor thumb didn't like it, so I didn't get into the habit of 
using it. The newest one has a paddle shifter job that takes the place of 
the plunger thingy. Way easier, better, cooler and I find myself using the 
dropper all the time and it really does help in a variety of situations. 
So, I've concluded that in the areas I ride to get me to use a dropper it 
needs to be easily actuated without me thinking too much about it, and I'm 
sorry to say that Hite Rite wouldn't make the cut. 

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 10:01:07 PM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> I have to get behind Philip on this one. Dropper on a fat tired road bike 
> that you hit the rugged logging roads with is just splendid. Nothing quite 
> like zinging around rutted corners on a big 747 standard diameter frame 
> with your dropper all the way down. That’s the Golden Age of bicycles right 
> there. 

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Re: [RBW] Outside article on CF

[Ryan M.]

Dang, that's a bad crack. Hey, we have the same year and color Trek Fuel 
Ex. 

I have a Niner Sir9 which hasn't shown a crack but the frames have been 
known to develop issues in the seat stays near the seat tube. I keep an eye 
on it. Hopefully if it ever does crack, bend, or otherwise show signs of 
failure Niner will do me right. 

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 12:29:31 PM UTC-5, Eric Daume wrote:

> Somewhat germane to this topic, I recently discovered that my steel Niner 
> mtb frame was nearly cracked through at head tube, while the generic 
> Chinese carbon fork was fine. 
>
> https://bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/2018/07/rip-ros.html?m=1
>
> Though to the frame’s credit, I did find the crack before the head tube 
> sheared off. 
>
> Eric
>
> On Thursday, July 26, 2018, jack loudon > 
> wrote:
>
>> Like Joe and Patrick, I also think CF *can* be safe but the buyer/owner 
>> needs to do a lot more due diligence than when buying steel.  Because the 
>> consequences of CF failure are so great, sloppy design and construction 
>> simply can't be tolerated.  I would tend to trust company like Salsa (for 
>> instance) because their CF frames seem to emphasize strength over extreme 
>> light weight.  Their Cutthroat has had plenty of testing on the Tour Divide 
>> and other races, and if Salsa has had CF frame or fork failures, I haven't 
>> heard of them.  OTOH, Salsa had a steel fork recall awhile back.  IMO it's 
>> not the material but the integrity and expertise of the designer/builder.  
>>
>> Jack
>> Seattle
>>
>> On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 8:36:48 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> Patrick, I think the answer is maybe. If you buy a high-end CF bike from 
>>> someone like Calfee who knows what they're doing, I think it would be safe 
>>> IF you don't bang it on something and IF it's inspected regularly. But it's 
>>> still not going to be a race car that, if it fails, spins around and clouts 
>>> a tire wall while you're belted in with a full-face helmet. For me I would 
>>> definitely ride a Calfee frame, but the steering system has to be metal. I 
>>> need those bars in my hands, and that front wheel in its proper location 
>>> and rolling. I don't trust carbon to do that. 
>>
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[RBW] Re: Motolite or other v-brake clearance

[Ryan M.]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4sTtpT3mRs

here is a youtube video where Paul goes through the motolite and near the 
end he does some measurements. 

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 6:40:10 AM UTC-5, MartyG wrote:

> Considering a brake change. Can someone tell me what the distance is from 
> the center of the canti post to the crossover between arms? I could not 
> find info about the max tire size. I want to see if the 700c G1s will fit 
> using Motolites or any other v-brake. Not worried about fenders at the 
> moment, but would be nice if the arms are tall enough. Thanks! 
>
> Marty
>

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[RBW] Re: N+4?

[Ryan M.]

That's awesome, man. 

I just got two Antelope Pass tires yesterday in the mail from Compass and 
got around to mounting one of them. They aren't as heavy as you think they 
are going to be. I am setting them up tubeless on a rigid mountain bike I'm 
turning into a gravel bike and everything went well. So far, so good. 

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 1:35:39 PM UTC-5, Rod Holland wrote:

> Frame is shipping, wheelset is building, tires and tubes are in hand, as 
> are most of the other parts. This may be a bicycle sooner rather than 
> later...
>
> rod
>
> On Monday, July 2, 2018 at 1:13:36 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I vigorously APPROVE of the purchase of an MIT Atlantis
>> I strenuously APPROVE of the Antelope Pass justification
>> I wholehearedly APPROVE of purchasing to opportunity vs purchasing to 
>> need.  Purchasing to opportunity loads up your inventory.  When a need (or 
>> desire) arises, then you interact with your own inventory.  
>>
>> Great work!
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, July 2, 2018 at 7:00:47 AM UTC-7, Rod Holland wrote:
>>>
>>> As someone wisely pointed out on this group, if you see a Riv frame you 
>>> like, it's best to buy it when it's offered. On that basis, I just ordered 
>>> a New Atlantis, a.k.a. MIT Atlantis, a.k.a. LWB Atlantis. It's a 59cm, 
>>> meaning 700C with a truss. The joke is that I already have three other 
>>> builds queued up (an Ocean Air Rambler 700C, a Sam Hilborne, and an old 
>>> Nobilette go-fast); I've done a really good job of not getting to these, 
>>> due to a range of distractions, but have full build kits for the Rambler 
>>> and Hillborne, and need to spend some quality time in the basement, putting 
>>> them together. Given that it's also prime riding season, what this really 
>>> means is that I need some weather foul enough to make me prefer wrenching 
>>> to riding.
>>>
>>> So why, when I already have builds for three more very likable bicycles 
>>> queued up, on top of five bikes already in the stable that give me real 
>>> satisfaction to ride, would I go and order another frameset? Rocks in my 
>>> head? Poor impulse control? Probably. But it falls out like this, I think: 
>>> I've got a soft spot in my head for touring bikes, and already own two; 
>>> I've got another soft spot in my head for Compass tires, and was an early 
>>> adopter of Barlows, RTPs, and Snoqs, all Extralights; none of my current 
>>> bikes would accommodate the Antelope Pass, I've wanted an Atlantis for 
>>> years, and the Riv long chainstays experiment is intriguing; I have also 
>>> admired the old ANT truss bikes, and missed the window for those. So, 
>>> godnose when I'll get it built, but I've taken the plunge...
>>>
>>> ... and when they are all built, what on earth am I going to do with 9 
>>> bikes? My bicycle hobby is turning into one of those "if present trends 
>>> continue" jokes... 
>>>
>>> rod
>>>
>>>
>>>
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 1:35:39 PM UTC-5, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Frame is shipping, wheelset is building, tires and tubes are in hand, as 
> are most of the other parts. This may be a bicycle sooner rather than 
> later...
>
> rod
>
> On Monday, July 2, 2018 at 1:13:36 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I vigorously APPROVE of the purchase of an MIT Atlantis
>> I strenuously APPROVE of the Antelope Pass justification
>> I wholehearedly APPROVE of purchasing to opportunity vs purchasing to 
>> need.  Purchasing to opportunity loads up your inventory.  When a need (or 
>> desire) arises, then you interact with your own inventory.  
>>
>> Great work!
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Monday, July 2, 2018 at 7:00:47 AM UTC-7, Rod Holland wrote:
>>>
>>> As someone wisely pointed out on this group, if you see a Riv frame you 
>>> like, it's best to buy it when it's offered. On that basis, I just ordered 
>>> a New Atlantis, a.k.a. MIT Atlantis, a.k.a. LWB Atlantis. It's a 59cm, 
>>> meaning 700C with a truss. The joke is that I already have three other 
>>> builds queued up (an Ocean Air Rambler 700C, a Sam Hilborne, and an old 
>>> Nobilette go-fast); I've done a really good job of not getting to these, 
>>> due to a range of distractions, but have full build kits for the Rambler 
>>> and Hillborne, and need to spend some quality time in the basement, putting 
>>> them together. Given that it's also prime riding season, what this really 
>>> means is that I need some weather foul enough to make me prefer wrenching 
>>> to riding.
>>>
>>> So why, when I already have builds for three more very likable bicycles 
>>> queued up, on top of five bikes already in the stable that give me real 
>>> satisfaction to ride, would I go and order another frameset? Rocks in my 
>>> head? Poor impulse control? Probably. But it falls out like this, I think: 
>>> I've got a soft spot in my head for touring bikes, and already own two; 
>>> I've got another soft spot in my head for Compass tires, and was an early 
>>> adopter 

Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

I've seen a friend at a local mountain bike race break a carbon handlebar 
while in a full sprint. It wasn't pretty. 

I'm totally on board with a steel mtb with a nice steel fork, good 
geometry, and just a rideable trail bike that I can have until I pass from 
this world. 

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 1:31:59 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

> I'll accept CF frames even if I don't have a particular taste for them. I 
> still think carbon forks/steerers are madness. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

"In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets are 
inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a matter of 
educating yourself on the procedures either way."

I agree and would add that the great thing about threadless is that you are 
generally carrying the tool needed to adjust the entire system with you on 
a ride where a threaded headset you need two rather large wrenches...and 
I'd be surprised if anybody carries them while riding. Either way, set it 
up and adjust it right once and you generally don't have to screw around 
with it on the road/trail (unless you are wrenching the bars back and forth 
during a rather jarring single track ride and have the quill slip and 
turn...happened to me once). 


I have found the beauty of threaded to be not only the aesthetics, which I 
prefer, but it's way easier to adjust stem height. 


On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 2:07:40 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:

> Hey Steve, it's really simple to adjust a threadless headset: 
>
> 1. Loosen clamping bolts on the stem.  
> 2. Tighten the bolt in the top cap just enough that no play can be 
> discerned via the usual headset adjustment check (locking front brake, 
> rocking the bike against the fork).  If the headset is too tight, loosen 
> until there is play and re-tighten appropriately.  
> 3. Check that stem is aligned with front wheel
> 4. Tighten clamping bolts on the stem.  
>
> I then usually double check that the headset is rotating freely by lifting 
> the bike with the rear end elevated and making sure the fork returns to 
> center when turned to either side, but i would do that for either a 
> threaded or threadless headset.  
>
> In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets are 
> inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a matter of 
> educating yourself on the procedures either way.
>
> On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:24:15 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to understand.  
>> It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be 
>> tightened or loosened.  Threadless is another story: there's no visible 
>> means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and then 
>> clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if that was 
>> how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate. 
>>
>> But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is, 
>> I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even 
>> though they all had them and they all had the tools.  (And no, I have no 
>> idea how to do it.  I can do a fair job with a threaded headset, though.) 
>>
>> And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the 
>> threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the washers 
>> not being thick enough.  Once that was fixed, no further problems.  Of 
>> course I don't ride MTB. 
>>
>>
>> On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote: 
>> > Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike shop 
>> 37 years ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose. Steel headsets 
>> tend to stay in place better, fewer problems with loosening, but they're 
>> heavy. Aluminum on the other hand comes loose no matter. I discover mine is 
>> loose typically on washboard surfaces when I'm miles from home. 
>> > 
>> > Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are going 
>> to have a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded headset/quill 
>> stem as well. 
>> > 
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Palincsar 
>> Alexandria, Virginia 
>> USA 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Thanks Grant

[Ryan M.]

I like a little extra grain in a lot of street and festival shots but find 
HP5 a bit flat; I think Delta 400 helps with that. Frankly, I'm more of a 
TriX guy myself. 

I've been shooting a ton of Portra 400 out of a few Pentax K2 cameras 
lately. 

On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 at 9:50:03 AM UTC-5, John A. Bennett wrote:

> Hey, guys. I hate to hijack the thread, but I've been shooting a lot of 
> film lately. Any other film shooters here?
>
> Last weekend was my first time using Ilford's Delta 400. The camera store 
> was out of HP5. Developed a roll from Saturday in my basement last night. 
> Seems like finer grain than HP5. Maybe more like Kodak's TMax? 
>
> I'm attaching one shot chosen at random. Thoughts?
>
> John in Portland, Ore.
>
> On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 at 6:59:16 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> I don't give a damn what anybody thinks of my "bumbling rhetoric". You're 
>> either on the right side of abducting children or evil. Your choice. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thanks Grant

[Ryan M.]

Agreed! Thank you, Grant!  



On Tuesday, June 19, 2018 at 10:07:07 PM UTC-5, Justin, Oakland wrote:

> Glad to see you voice your opinion on the Blahg/Blug/whatever it was. 
>
> -Justin
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've 
ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling 
resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue 
but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the 
bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding 
the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it 
was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I 
wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire 
pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following 
though, but they aren't for me. 

On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the 
rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the 
gravel roads around me. 

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it 
> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or, 
> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a 
> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at 
> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just 
> isn't fat enough.
>
> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare 
> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>

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[RBW] Re: Keto next week: how do i not bonk?

[Ryan M.]

You really shouldn't need to take anything in except water on a 20 mile 
commute; it's just not that strenuous of a ride to burn through your stores 
you already have. Unless you are doing a bunch of VO2max intervals while 
commuting I wouldn't specifically feed just for it.  

Just some personal examples. Back when I rode with a cycling club our 
nightly road rides were 20 to 30 miles and I don't ever remember seeing 
anybody eat or drink any special food or drink on those. They were spirited 
pace line affairs with the sweaty lycra clad crowd. Nowadays I ride 12 mile 
mountain bike rides after work that net me between 120 and 150 TSS 
(training stress score...it's a trainingpeaks.com thing...I got a power 
meter on that bikeI'm really not a data nerd...honestly ;) ) and only 
drink water. they are strenuous enough rides that when I get home I'm 
hungry but I don't get near a state of bonking unless I don't eat for a few 
hours after.

Changing over to keto, I would imagine if you just take it relatively easy 
and don't do too many higher intensity miles your body will adapt to the 
new fuel fairly quickly. 

On Thursday, May 24, 2018 at 4:12:25 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:

> 20 mile round trip gatorade fueled trips in the past.
> How do i not bonk while ketoing?
> I plan to stay in maffetone fat burning effort zone. That will help.

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[RBW] Re: Your favorite Rivendell?

[Ryan M.]

My first Rivendell was an orange cant Sam Hillborne and I loved it set up 
with Noodles, 650b freewheel Rivy hub and dyad wheels, and bar end 
shifters. At that time I ordered an orange Roadeo that I set up with 
Shimano Ultegra 6800 group with some Rolf Vigor wheels. That bike was fast 
and comfy and I did a bunch of riding on it. I'm a constant bike switcher 
so I sold those two bikes and got an Atlantis that I set up to ride trails 
with. It worked well but I wasn't loading it down enough with gear and I 
also got a full suspension mtb which started taking all my time. I wound up 
selling the Atlantis (wish I kept it now). 

I have a brand new Appaloosa now that I love. I have it set up with a sort 
of single speed style with a Paul Melvin and a two ring Silver crank in 
front that I shift with a thumb friction shifter on some choco-moose bars. 
The bike is fairly new to me and I only finished the build a week ago, but 
the two gravel rides I've done on it so far have been wonderful. 

I have to say out of the 4 rivs I've owned, my favorite is this Appaloosa 
even though all of the bikes have been top notch. I would have kept the 
Roadeo had I stayed riding on the road with the bike club but that kind of 
riding fell out of favor for me. I like how I have the Loosa set up and it 
is like riding a limousine on these gravel roads, plus the headbadge is 
cool. 

On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 5:30:55 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> I've owned 5: 3 custom Roads, 56 (55?) single tt, canti Sam, and blue Ram, 
> later model with room for 32s and fenders and space in between.
>
> I put more miles on the 2003 Curt, just about identical to the '99 Joe 
> gofast in frame geometry, drivetain/saddle/bar components and setup; it 
> just adds all the accoutrements -- fenders, racks f/r, dynolights, bell fer 
> gosh's sakes -- that you'd reasonably want for an "errand" bike, But, (just 
> rode it) I have to say that the stripper gofast is just *more fun* to 
> ride, measured by response in drivetrain to effort in legs. I don't know 
> why this is so, since the '03 has largely the same drivetrain, and wheels 
> -- same tires, Elk Pass -- as the '99. There is probably a 7 lb weight 
> differenceboth bikes unladen ('99 is 18.1 now that it adds second bottle 
> cage and Dingle on flip side); and the '03 is very often laden; but -- I 
> dunno. 
>
> I realize that all of this is very relative to your own type of riding; 
> but for me, if someone held a gun to my head and said: "One bike; choose 
> now!", I'd have to choose the '99 Joe.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: Happy Fantastic Rivendell Perfecto Shopping Experience!

[Ryan M.]

I've always found the website lovely even back when it had a tweed 
borderloved it. 

On Sunday, April 29, 2018 at 6:36:30 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:

> It's not up to me, but I wish the subject titles like "Frustrated by Riv's 
> lack of inventory" wouldn't stay alive for weeks. It may have made sense in 
> the original post, and it's no up to me to change the rules of posting or 
> threading or whatever, but tour inventory level right now is at the past 
> 5-year average. 
>
> Our focus will be "fewer things but more of them." I've passed on many of 
> the suggestions to Dave, who deals with that end of things. We are more 
> limited than REI and L.L. Bean in that we buy an ecommerce package that we 
> can afford, and it has more limitations than the unaffordable ones. 
>
> If any of you out there is in the business of making ecommerce sites 
> better, or customizing them...then send both me and Dave (
> na...@rivbike.com ) the same emails, and when Dave comes 
> back on Thurs...well, maybe not that DAY, but soon after, he may get back 
> to you. Our site runs on shopify--and we're not likely to change that 
> soon.  
>
> If any of you are familiar with that and can improve it, great. The last 
> time we hired out for help, with a shopify expert, there was that messup 
> with the credits--now solved, but hooboy.
>
> There are better shopping sites than ours. I use them, too. But ours 
> continues to improve, if slowly, and is better now than it has been in the 
> past. Some of the improvements are on our end--the administration side. 
>
>
> G
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 10:16 AM, Paul Choi  > wrote:
>
>> Rivendell is not Amazon. We don't want them to be. Grant, please continue 
>> to do what you need to do. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 25, 2018 at 5:01:09 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>>
>>> OK, so I'm no longer a big bike spender, but I do own three Riv bikes 
>>> and feel some loyalty to the company.  At 73 all I need are replacement 
>>> parts.   I haven't ordered anything from RBW in two years because every 
>>> time I try to put in an order half of what I need is out of stock.  
>>>
>>> It's finally Spring in Vt and this week I pulled all the bikes out of 
>>> the basement, cleaned & tuned them up.  I made a list of the replacement 
>>> parts I needed, which was really very short - new HB tape and one tire.  Of 
>>> course I can always use cleaner and lube so added them in, then threw in a 
>>> chain guard for the Rambouillet.  Went to the RBW site and discovered that 
>>> the tire I wanted was out of stock, as was the chain guard.  Not much point 
>>> in putting in an order for HB tape and two items I can buy anywhere
>>>
>>> VO has the tire (650b X 38 skin wall) and HB  tape, so once again no 
>>> sale for RBW.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
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[RBW] Re: RIV Catalog Arrived

[Ryan M.]

I got mine yesterday and went through it at lunch...great catalog. I love 
the hand drawings and all the artwork. It really makes me want to go 
riding. 

On Monday, May 14, 2018 at 2:05:09 PM UTC-5, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
> Just got the mail and there it was - the promised Riv catalog!  I'm going 
> to wait until after work to savor it with a beer in hand on the back 
> patio.  Just from the cover, it looks to be of high quality.  Much as you 
> would expect.
> Chris
>

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Re: [RBW] Roadeo specimens?

[Ryan M]

I just ordered a Roadeo in Ram Orange and it was a hundred buck 
upcharge. Marc said the white with blue or red accents were the stock 
colors. Some colors were more though, depending on what you wanted. 
 

On Friday, January 25, 2013 10:31:03 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote: 

 It says:
 Graphical  Other Optionals 

 White with red accents.
 White with blue accents
 Any color that goes well with cream, with cream accents. That rules out 
 white and cream, but not much else.
   

 Any of these color options is available with a threaded or threadless 
 fork, same price. 

 Same price regardless of color? Or same price for threaded/threadless?
 Anyone know?



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[RBW] Re: 1 bike? Could you do it?

[Ryan M]

I haven't had the chance to read all the responses, but would like to 
respond to the original question. 
 
I went the last two years with only one bike, a Sam Hillborne. During that 
time I have been active in a bike club that does fast club rides and I have 
also commuted some, not to mention the fun solo rides and the rails to 
trails type outings. I did all of these with the Sam and it performed fine. 
Notice I am not doing any mountain biking (single track though) I think if 
you are road riding and mountain biking, two bikes are essential with one 
set up to handle single track and one to better handle the road riding.
 
While the Sam does fine for the stuff I was using it for, it does not work 
as well as I would like for fast club rides (650b tires, fenders and bar 
end shifters and switching from platform to clipless all the time was 
working my nerves.) I decided I really need something dedicated to going 
faster, riding harder with other people...so I ordered a Roadeo. I have 
high hopes for the Roadeo and generally know how it is going to be setup 
so not only to keep the weight down a bit but to keep the bike responsive. 
(plus it will be clipless all the time). 
 
For me, right now, two bikes are essential as I can use the Sam for 
everything but the club riding. My plan is to keep racks and bags on the 
Sam and use it commuting and bike camping (something I would like to do 
more of this year.) 
 
If I get into single track riding on the trails around my area, I will 
proably be saving up for a Hunqapillar or Bombadil.
 

On Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:48:04 PM UTC-6, murphyjrfk wrote:

 Suppose the title says it all. But I've been a thinking about going down 
 to 1---not a big step down cause I normally only have two three tops o' 
 working bikes anyways. And the overlap is out of control. How many 26 
 touring bikes does one fellow need deal. But I love what I love I guess. 

 One bike? Could ya do it and what would it be?


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[RBW] Re: Riv Email

[Ryan M]

Well, I tell ya, if it was in my size I would have bought one.  Sadly, I am 
a short dude who usually needs the smaller size bikes. Not a huge problem 
as an Atlantis is in my future but I think the limited sizing may have 
something to do with it. Also, the QB really seemed to sell well so maybe 
enough owners already have a single speed type bike and don't really need 
the SimpleOne.  

I really like their email updates, especially in the middle of winter. Gave 
me the push to buy some MUSA knickers just now.

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