[RBW] Rivendell Paint

[John Bokman]

Segueing off a thread on the new Sam Hillbornes upcoming: How exactly are 
stock Rivendells painted? They are so glossy looking, so thick and zesty, 
they don't look powder-coated to my eye. If they are powder-coated, how do 
they achieve this effect? Regardless of how they are painted, who does the 
painting, and where? I have yet to see a better paint job on a production 
bike than a Rivendell.

John
Portland, OR

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Orange Rambouillet $800 Complete

[John Bokman]

Why did the Covid situation have to take my job? I would be so on this 
otherwise! And local, too!

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 10:17:01 PM UTC-7, maxcr wrote:
>
> Same, except it is my size... I don’t need another bike, I don’t need 
> another bike, I need another bike? 
> Max

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 55cm Hillborne PRICE DROP

[John Bokman]

Riv has changed their sizing on these (and other) frames over the years. 
This looks to be the first gen Sam because the headtube is solid orange - 
not cream accent. Meaning, the 60cm frame is quite a bit bigger than the 
current 58cm frame. Unless I'm mistaken, it would correlate more closely to 
the now 62cm frame.

I owned a 2009 60cm frame  (solid orange, no cream accent) and found it too 
big (long). In retrospect the 56cm (next size down) would have been 
perfect. I "know" this, because I now ride a 58cm Sam (roughly the "same" 
size of the old 56) that is "perfect".



On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 7:52:04 AM UTC-8 MoVelo wrote:

> Ahmed
>
> Your Hillborne looks great. I am in the market for one but in a larger 
> size. If your's was a 58 I'd be all over it.
>
> I do see there is a 60cm on Ebay with a starting bid of $2200.00. I am a 
> little confused about that size tho as the chart I have shows a 58 and then 
> a 62. I confess I haven't been following the Sams as closely as some on 
> this list have, and so I don't have a good grasp on the heritage. Rivendell 
> does seem to refine the bikes as the years go on. I noticed the current 
> generation as shown on their website has different seat stay connections as 
> yours. 
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/165308900740?hash=item267d2da584:g:qd4AAOSwF0Vh9upF
>
> You might follow it to see where the bidding ends up to get an idea of 
> what they bring there. 
>
> Good luck.
>
> JP in Central NE
>
> On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 9:11:32 AM UTC-6 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>
>> I hope you find a buyer, Ahmed. 
>> I hope folks realize that the Hillborne was sort of the bike that started 
>> the whole modern era of Rivendells, as I don't feel like the Hillborne gets 
>> as much regard as the newer, evolved models. The Bomba came first as a 6 
>> degree upsloping tubed bike, but the Hillborne was the first of the Taiwan 
>> expanded geometry bicycles that have come to exemplify Rivendell (this is 
>> according to my fuzzy memory). It was meant to be a do all, beat it up, 
>> ride it like crazy, never repaint it (I recall grant saying he hoped nobody 
>> would ever repaint one), and pass it down to your children bike. I honestly 
>> think anyone looking for a Riv and fits this 55cm Hillborne couldn't find a 
>> better bicycle. I have had a super secret 56cm double TT Waterford 
>> Hillborne since 2011 and it is a never sell for me. It was my primary 
>> touring bicycle for a number of years, also commuter, shopper, and do all 
>> bicycle. It can use drops or uprights. Folks seem to want a Riv mixte or 
>> droptube, and I have had both and sold them both because I never actually 
>> used the lower tube for stepping "in" to the bicycle, I still throw my leg 
>> over, and with the expanded geometry of the Hillborne, you don't have to 
>> worry about standover anyway.
>> Also, and this is again only my experience, I never got along with the 
>> long wheelbase that the newer Riv's have. I much prefer the ride of my old 
>> style Atlantis, Hillborne, and Simpleone. 
>> I hope this helps anyone on the fence. 
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 11:10:33 PM UTC-6 Ahmed Elgasseir wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Chris!!! 
>>>
>>> On Tue, Feb 1, 2022 at 7:20 PM Chris Halasz  wrote:
>>>
 Ahmed 

 The Sam is a very nice build and color - just one size too small for 
 me. 

 On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 1:06:31 PM UTC-8 Ahmed Elgasseir wrote:

> PRICE DROP. I got absolutely no response at all so. guess I am 
> too high? OR No one wants a Hillborne these days? Make a reasonable 
> offer. 
>
> Ahmed in San Mateo
>
> On Saturday, January 29, 2022 at 6:22:31 PM UTC-8 Ahmed Elgasseir 
> wrote:
>
>> Let's try this again
>> For Sale my 55cm Hillborne. Purchased in 2019 from Riv. Velocity 
>> Atlas 700c, Silver cranks and MKS pedals, Berthoud saddle, Nitto 
>> seatpost 
>> and Nitto Dirtdrop stem, Crust/Nitto dropbars plus Brooks bartape with 
>> stem 
>> shifter. Nitto front rack with Wald big basket. Only about 1k miles on 
>> it. 
>> Selling to thin the herd and make room for another build. $2900 and 
>> prefer 
>> local only. Would love to sell it here before I put it up on Craigslist. 
>>
>> thanks
>> Ahmed in San Mateo, CA
>>
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 .

>>> -- 
>>>
>>> *Ahmed Elgasseir*
>>>
>>> Departm

[RBW] Re: Shortening Stem Length

[John Bokman]

I originally had a 10 cm Nitto technomic on my Sam. That was definitely too 
long for me. I swapped to a 7cm stem and have been much happier. For what 
it's worth, I ride a 58cm Sam, have long legs relative to my torso, and 
ride with bars below saddle height. Rivs tend to have long top tubes, so 
what you might use on a different frame may not work well on the Riv.  I'd 
try to measure when sitting on the bike, in your riding position (have 
someone else to help do the measurement). What does 2cm (1") shorter feel 
like? 

John Bokman
Portland OR

On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:38 AM UTC-8 Sean B. wrote:

> For awhile I've been riding my 2018 51cm AHH on a 9cm stem with the Nitto 
> Noodles. Last summer I decided over the winter I wanted to shorten the 
> reach a bit. I feel slightly stretched out when riding in the hoods, so I 
> tend to ride on the ramps/tops. Shortening it 1cm is too little. So should 
> I go for a 2cm or 3cm change? It's hard to see without actually riding on 
> them, but my guess is the 2cm change might be the best for me (I realize 
> this is super subjective). Does anyone else have experience with this 
> issue?  
>

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[RBW] Re: Everglades

[John Bokman]

Great shots Laing!

On Monday, February 21, 2022 at 7:22:59 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> I haven't been riding a whole lot since I moved to south Florida as the 
> roads are kind of crowded with people that don't pay a lot of attention to 
> what they are doing. Most of my riding had been on the El Rio Trail 
> commuting to work. So I did some research. I live in Delray Beach, which is 
> the "thinnest" part of the populated part of south Florida. The beach is 
> four miles due east and the Everglades starts seven miles due west. Three 
> miles north of that is the Arthur R Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife 
> Refuge. It turns out that there is a path on top of the dike at the edge of 
> the Everglades. I have a Lifetime Senior Pass for National Parks, etc., so 
> yesterday I decided to to put my Mystery Bike in the back of the Element to 
> go see what I could see.
>
> [image: EGs.jpg]
>
> I guess this qualifies as gravel. No cars other than one park truck, just 
> a few pedestrians, occasional kitted-out bikers on a carbon fiber gravel 
> bikes, a few people on Walmart mountain bikes, the occasional small boat in 
> the canal, and an airplane doing acrobatics over head. Zero elevation 
> change. Not a lot of change in the view, but very quiet when the airplane 
> wasn't around - low stress riding. Didn't see any alligators, but they are 
> out there. I will be back for longer rides (with a water bottle). This 
> trail goes north and south for many miles - I think it is 40+ miles in 
> total.
> The single speed Mystery bike on 29x2 Big Bens is about perfect for this. 
> I do need to transfer some Ergon grips onto it from another bike. The 
> Rustines grips just don't cut it.
>
> [image: EG2s.jpg]
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>

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[RBW] WTT: MKS/VP pedals for MKS pedals

[John Bokman]

Hi all. I'm looking for MKS Allways pedals for Sam. I have two pedals that 
are surplus to my needs:
1. MKS Sylvan Touring (nearly new)
2. MKS Urban Platform (nearly new, just threaded into crank arms and not 
ridden; I also have XL Deep toe clips and straps if you want 'em)
3. (I also have VP Vice, nearly new, in silver if interested in non-MKS)

If any of you rivsters are looking to unload your Allways pedals, lemme 
know!

John Bokman
Portland, OR

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[RBW] WTB: Old School Riv Boxy Bag and F-15 rack

[John Bokman]

Hi all.
Long story short, I'm searching for what I once had: a Nitto F-15 handlebar 
bag support, and it's accompanying Riv Boxy Bag. ( I actually ran a 
Carradice handlebar bag, not the Riv bag, which wasn't yet in production; 
unfortunately both  were stolen from my garage, many years ago.)  

Thanks all. 

John B.
Portland OR

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[RBW] Re: Pigeonholed in Bicycle Philosophy

[John Bokman]

Gorgeous Rich! What are those brakes if I may ask?

John 
Portland OR

On Wednesday, March 9, 2022 at 7:55:15 AM UTC-8 RichS wrote:

> Andy, that's an enviable and enjoyable album. Johnny is really nice and 
> his tucked away atelier is a steel art and craft happening. Not well 
> documented but here is my thing in its final "happened" state. Riv content: 
> it's what got me pigeonholed here:-)
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 8, 2022 at 9:48:44 PM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> An album of the thing happening: 
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/PxJUkK7TtCQSdk2A7
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>> On Sunday, March 6, 2022 at 1:00:15 PM UTC-5 J. W. wrote:
>>
>>> Lovely post Andy. You wrote:
>>>
>>> The conclusions that I have found and my riding objectives shaped the 
 bike I had made for me and those objective needs. I took 20 years of 
 almost 
 there, but have it nailed now. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I am new here so I haven't seen it if you've posted it before--can you 
>>> post a picture of this bike? Thanks! Jon in Montreal
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Flat Pedal Users: Favorite size/shape?

[John Bokman]

Hi all.
I've been riding VP Vice pedals for a few years now. It took a long while 
(aprx. a year) to get used to riding flats, coming from Speedplay Frogs. 
Finally, it took, and I'm happy on the flats for my commuter (Sam Hill).

However, the Vice have developed play, rattle a bit, and generally feel 
gritty, and I have been experimenting with different ideas. I've recently 
used the old MKS Touring pedals, and RMX sneaker pedals. These are okay, 
but what I've discovered is that for my riding,  flats without connection 
(no clips/straps, powergrips) feel better underfoot with a fairly large 
platform, and low stack height,  like the Vice. And yet I know many of you 
enjoy the Riv-approved MKS Gamma, lambda, and Allways models. All of these 
appear to be taller, and all are narrower than the vice. And yet...I 
wonder: how big is big enough? I'm not racing downhill, fully padded and 
helmeted, on a double boinger, like my neice. I just ride my bike here and 
there, long distances, when time allows.

I always want to support Riv when possible. But I am looking at many other 
pedals that Riv does not sell. What are some of your favorites, and why? 
For what use? If you use the aforementioned MKS pedals, what is your 
opinion of them? Do you like the size/shape? I'm wondering if the length of 
the pedal is more important than the width. The Gamma, Lambda, and Allways, 
for instance, are all longer than the Vice, while being slimmer. 

Thanks.
John


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[RBW] Re: Flat Pedal Users: Favorite size/shape?

[John Bokman]

Yes, I did grease theses once already.  Grease is inexpensive, so of 
course, I could regrease them.  As for the Catalyst,  I don't want to go 
there for a few reasons:
1. I already experience toe overlap (fenders on my 700c Sam) at times, and 
the length of the pedal is way longer than the Vice.
2. I don't like riding with my foot so far forward of the axle. In other 
words, I'm not an arch-pedaler, which is what the Catalyst calls for, 
unless I'm mistaken.
3. I'm not convinced I need something that long. Again, how long is long 
enough?

On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 1:17:51 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> Do you add grease to your Vice pedals John ?  I always add grease to any 
> pedal, open them up, slather some grease on the axle and slide the body 
> back on the excess oozes out the axle side. I have 2 pairs of Vice and 
> they've been flawless. Before these I did this with Wellgo MG-1's.  
>
> I wear size 14 shoes and the Vice size and shape works great with the 
> shoes I wear. I pedal near midfoot, not totally. A longer platform would 
> not necessarily be any better. That's what always struck me about Pedal 
> Innovations. I already pedalled mid foot, my feet were already 
> "supported"...(as if any other pedal doesn't offer support !).  What they 
> neglect in their "science", is using *short cranks along with a midfoot 
> stroke*. With 185mm cranks it didn't work for me, too much of a reach 
> despite a lowered saddle, awkward.  With 170 . a little better but 
> still ... nope. Then I tried 152/150's.. ahhh .. swet spot of 
> both midoot power and pedal speed.  As the French say back in the day  
> soo-play ... soo-play ! 
>
> On Wednesday, March 16, 2022 at 9:24:43 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> Hi all.
>> I've been riding VP Vice pedals for a few years now. It took a long while 
>> (aprx. a year) to get used to riding flats, coming from Speedplay Frogs. 
>> Finally, it took, and I'm happy on the flats for my commuter (Sam Hill).
>>
>> However, the Vice have developed play, rattle a bit, and generally feel 
>> gritty, and I have been experimenting with different ideas. I've recently 
>> used the old MKS Touring pedals, and RMX sneaker pedals. These are okay, 
>> but what I've discovered is that for my riding,  flats without connection 
>> (no clips/straps, powergrips) feel better underfoot with a fairly large 
>> platform, and low stack height,  like the Vice. And yet I know many of you 
>> enjoy the Riv-approved MKS Gamma, lambda, and Allways models. All of these 
>> appear to be taller, and all are narrower than the vice. And yet...I 
>> wonder: how big is big enough? I'm not racing downhill, fully padded and 
>> helmeted, on a double boinger, like my neice. I just ride my bike here and 
>> there, long distances, when time allows.
>>
>> I always want to support Riv when possible. But I am looking at many 
>> other pedals that Riv does not sell. What are some of your favorites, and 
>> why? For what use? If you use the aforementioned MKS pedals, what is your 
>> opinion of them? Do you like the size/shape? I'm wondering if the length of 
>> the pedal is more important than the width. The Gamma, Lambda, and Allways, 
>> for instance, are all longer than the Vice, while being slimmer. 
>>
>> Thanks.
>> John
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Flat Pedal Users: Favorite size/shape?

[John Bokman]

Thanks for all the good suggestions, everyone. I'm Narrowing down the 
parameters, I think. So far, what I think I want:

1. Metal pedal body, not composite.
2. Rebuildable pedal (can rebuild parts be had?).
3. At least as long as the Vice (106mm, I think).
4. At least 100mm wide.

Does anyone have experience with the Xpedo Spry? it looks to tick some 
boxes.

https://xpedo.com/product/pedals/flats/spry/


On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 8:18:37 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:

> Yes, I did grease theses once already.  Grease is inexpensive, so of 
> course, I could regrease them.  As for the Catalyst,  I don't want to go 
> there for a few reasons:
> 1. I already experience toe overlap (fenders on my 700c Sam) at times, and 
> the length of the pedal is way longer than the Vice.
> 2. I don't like riding with my foot so far forward of the axle. In other 
> words, I'm not an arch-pedaler, which is what the Catalyst calls for, 
> unless I'm mistaken.
> 3. I'm not convinced I need something that long. Again, how long is long 
> enough?
>
> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 1:17:51 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> Do you add grease to your Vice pedals John ?  I always add grease to any 
>> pedal, open them up, slather some grease on the axle and slide the body 
>> back on the excess oozes out the axle side. I have 2 pairs of Vice and 
>> they've been flawless. Before these I did this with Wellgo MG-1's.  
>>
>> I wear size 14 shoes and the Vice size and shape works great with the 
>> shoes I wear. I pedal near midfoot, not totally. A longer platform would 
>> not necessarily be any better. That's what always struck me about Pedal 
>> Innovations. I already pedalled mid foot, my feet were already 
>> "supported"...(as if any other pedal doesn't offer support !).  What they 
>> neglect in their "science", is using *short cranks along with a midfoot 
>> stroke*. With 185mm cranks it didn't work for me, too much of a reach 
>> despite a lowered saddle, awkward.  With 170 . a little better but 
>> still ... nope. Then I tried 152/150's.. ahhh .. swet spot of 
>> both midoot power and pedal speed.  As the French say back in the day  
>> soo-play ... soo-play ! 
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2022 at 9:24:43 PM UTC-4 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all.
>>> I've been riding VP Vice pedals for a few years now. It took a long 
>>> while (aprx. a year) to get used to riding flats, coming from Speedplay 
>>> Frogs. Finally, it took, and I'm happy on the flats for my commuter (Sam 
>>> Hill).
>>>
>>> However, the Vice have developed play, rattle a bit, and generally feel 
>>> gritty, and I have been experimenting with different ideas. I've recently 
>>> used the old MKS Touring pedals, and RMX sneaker pedals. These are okay, 
>>> but what I've discovered is that for my riding,  flats without connection 
>>> (no clips/straps, powergrips) feel better underfoot with a fairly large 
>>> platform, and low stack height,  like the Vice. And yet I know many of you 
>>> enjoy the Riv-approved MKS Gamma, lambda, and Allways models. All of these 
>>> appear to be taller, and all are narrower than the vice. And yet...I 
>>> wonder: how big is big enough? I'm not racing downhill, fully padded and 
>>> helmeted, on a double boinger, like my neice. I just ride my bike here and 
>>> there, long distances, when time allows.
>>>
>>> I always want to support Riv when possible. But I am looking at many 
>>> other pedals that Riv does not sell. What are some of your favorites, and 
>>> why? For what use? If you use the aforementioned MKS pedals, what is your 
>>> opinion of them? Do you like the size/shape? I'm wondering if the length of 
>>> the pedal is more important than the width. The Gamma, Lambda, and Allways, 
>>> for instance, are all longer than the Vice, while being slimmer. 
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Flat Pedal Users: Favorite size/shape?

[John Bokman]

Indeed, those look excellent. Definitely worth a hard look. 

On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 6:00:52 PM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Does the Pedaling Innovations rebuild kit work for VP Vice pedals? It 
> looks like the axle and bearings are the same.
>
> Anyone know?
>
> Also a nice choice for a high-end pedal are these bad boys, made in the 
> USA:
> https://yoshimuracycling.com/products/chilao-performance-bicycle-pedal
>
> Michael
>
> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 7:08:29 PM UTC-4 Joe in the Pay Area wrote:
>
>> Black Ops Torqlite UL platform pedals, now almost impossible to find.  
>> And why does my reply have just a half line of height? Can baely see what I 
>> type!
>>
>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 9:38:42 AM UTC-7 George Rosselle wrote:
>>
>>> I have the Spank Oozy pedals on my Chameleon and like them a lot, metal, 
>>> low profile, and availabe bushings that are easy to replace. Too bad you 
>>> don't like composites, I also have Race Face Chesters on a couple bikes and 
>>> find them to be just as good and much less expensive.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 12:24:19 PM UTC-4 Paul Choi wrote:
>>>
>>>> I like the Blue Lug MKS XC-III pedals. Not too big and they hold my 8.5 
>>>> shoes well. They look like the bear trap pedals that I had on my Redline 
>>>> BMX bike back in the early 80's. I got mine from Hope Cyclery. They have 
>>>> them in six colors. 
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 8:39:05 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the good suggestions, everyone. I'm Narrowing down the 
>>>>> parameters, I think. So far, what I think I want:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Metal pedal body, not composite.
>>>>> 2. Rebuildable pedal (can rebuild parts be had?).
>>>>> 3. At least as long as the Vice (106mm, I think).
>>>>> 4. At least 100mm wide.
>>>>>
>>>>> Does anyone have experience with the Xpedo Spry? it looks to tick some 
>>>>> boxes.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://xpedo.com/product/pedals/flats/spry/
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 8:18:37 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes, I did grease theses once already.  Grease is inexpensive, so of 
>>>>>> course, I could regrease them.  As for the Catalyst,  I don't want to go 
>>>>>> there for a few reasons:
>>>>>> 1. I already experience toe overlap (fenders on my 700c Sam) at 
>>>>>> times, and the length of the pedal is way longer than the Vice.
>>>>>> 2. I don't like riding with my foot so far forward of the axle. In 
>>>>>> other words, I'm not an arch-pedaler, which is what the Catalyst calls 
>>>>>> for, 
>>>>>> unless I'm mistaken.
>>>>>> 3. I'm not convinced I need something that long. Again, how long is 
>>>>>> long enough?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 1:17:51 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Do you add grease to your Vice pedals John ?  I always add grease to 
>>>>>>> any pedal, open them up, slather some grease on the axle and slide the 
>>>>>>> body 
>>>>>>> back on the excess oozes out the axle side. I have 2 pairs of Vice and 
>>>>>>> they've been flawless. Before these I did this with Wellgo MG-1's.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I wear size 14 shoes and the Vice size and shape works great with 
>>>>>>> the shoes I wear. I pedal near midfoot, not totally. A longer platform 
>>>>>>> would not necessarily be any better. That's what always struck me about 
>>>>>>> Pedal Innovations. I already pedalled mid foot, my feet were already 
>>>>>>> "supported"...(as if any other pedal doesn't offer support !).  What 
>>>>>>> they 
>>>>>>> neglect in their "science", is using *short cranks along with a 
>>>>>>> midfoot stroke*. With 185mm cranks it didn't work for me, too much 
>>>>>>> of a reach despite a lowered saddle, awkward.  With 170 . a little 
>>>>>>> better but still ... nope. Then I tried 152/150's.. ahhh .. 
>>>>>>> swet spot of bo

[RBW] Re: Flat Pedal Users: Favorite size/shape?

[John Bokman]

Yeah, they are pricey. Much more than a little marine grease, which is what 
I used to slather on the spindles of my VP Vice today. Turns out, when I 
look at all the pedals out there, mine are hard to beat, considering they 
are every day "just ride" pedals. About 100x100 square, not too heavy, 
plenty grippy, nice and thin, spin well enough (although admittedly not 
smooth), and inexpensive. I think I paid $45 for them many years ago. I 
can't really complain; they have been a good value, all considered.

(Thanks to Garth for reminding me to just throw some grease in them again.)



On Friday, March 18, 2022 at 11:55:53 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Man those are pricey but I love that they are about the same weight as 
> composite pedals, they look great and are made in America. I am going to 
> give those a shot sometime soon.
>
> On Friday, March 18, 2022 at 2:32:38 PM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Review of the Yoshimura Chilao pedals on The Radavist.
>>
>>
>> https://theradavist.com/2021/10/i-cant-get-enough-of-these-yoshimura-chilao-mtb-pedals/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 7:34:48 PM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> Indeed, those look excellent. Definitely worth a hard look. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 6:00:52 PM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>>>
>>>> Does the Pedaling Innovations rebuild kit work for VP Vice pedals? It 
>>>> looks like the axle and bearings are the same.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone know?
>>>>
>>>> Also a nice choice for a high-end pedal are these bad boys, made in the 
>>>> USA:
>>>> https://yoshimuracycling.com/products/chilao-performance-bicycle-pedal
>>>>
>>>> Michael
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 7:08:29 PM UTC-4 Joe in the Pay Area 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Black Ops Torqlite UL platform pedals, now almost impossible to find.  
>>>>> And why does my reply have just a half line of height? Can baely see what 
>>>>> I 
>>>>> type!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 9:38:42 AM UTC-7 George Rosselle wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have the Spank Oozy pedals on my Chameleon and like them a lot, 
>>>>>> metal, low profile, and availabe bushings that are easy to replace. Too 
>>>>>> bad 
>>>>>> you don't like composites, I also have Race Face Chesters on a couple 
>>>>>> bikes 
>>>>>> and find them to be just as good and much less expensive.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 12:24:19 PM UTC-4 Paul Choi wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I like the Blue Lug MKS XC-III pedals. Not too big and they hold my 
>>>>>>> 8.5 shoes well. They look like the bear trap pedals that I had on my 
>>>>>>> Redline BMX bike back in the early 80's. I got mine from Hope Cyclery. 
>>>>>>> They 
>>>>>>> have them in six colors. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 8:39:05 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks for all the good suggestions, everyone. I'm Narrowing down 
>>>>>>>> the parameters, I think. So far, what I think I want:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> 1. Metal pedal body, not composite.
>>>>>>>> 2. Rebuildable pedal (can rebuild parts be had?).
>>>>>>>> 3. At least as long as the Vice (106mm, I think).
>>>>>>>> 4. At least 100mm wide.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Does anyone have experience with the Xpedo Spry? it looks to tick 
>>>>>>>> some boxes.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://xpedo.com/product/pedals/flats/spry/
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 8:18:37 AM UTC-7 John Bokman wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Yes, I did grease theses once already.  Grease is inexpensive, so 
>>>>>>>>> of course, I could regrease them.  As for the Catalyst,  I don't want 
>>>>>>>>> to go 
>>>>>>>>> there for a few reasons:
>>>>>>>>> 1. I already experience toe overlap (fenders on my 700c Sam) at 
>>>>>&g

[RBW] Re: Saluki, first ride

[John Bokman]

Sweet looking ride you got there. Congratulations.

On Friday, March 18, 2022 at 12:25:31 PM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:

> [image: 94A4BDD3-7098-4E68-A063-89DFAD04AC39.jpeg]Today the weather was 
> perfect, I had to stop to take off my windbreaker and I probably could have 
> worn shorts.  So the bike is very smooth, I don’t remember how my too big 
> 56cm rode anymore but this 54 is pretty much perfect.  Outfitted with 
> everything from my 55cm Bleriot except the brakes.  I was quite surprised 
> by the ride as if memory serves it felt different than the Bleriot.  Very 
> stable (more surefooted than the Bleriot), no surprises in handling.  The 
> one difference is that when I put the seat on this (which was always 
> attached to the seatpost from the Bleriot the setback is a bit more).  I 
> always ride with my seat set levels as this just works for me.I really have 
> no idea why it felt so good but it had me questioning the Hillborne which 
> always felt more sure footed than the Bleriot, but I will ride that after 
> awhile on this one and see. After riding the Hillborne on rollers all 
> winter the muscles that were not used are letting themselves be known.  I 
> am very pleased that I bought this frame, just lovely in every way. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Production year of my Sam Hillborne?

[John Bokman]

I had a 2009 that looked the same (Orange headtube color).

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 4:27:36 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks, all. 
>
> And let's hear it for Bill Lindsey everyone, Bill Lindsey. Thanks for 
> coming out to the Chuckle Hut this evening, have a safe drive home and 
> don't forget to tip your servers! We'll be back next Tuesday night. 
>
> On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 5:42:00 PM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:
>
>> Yes, that should be the production year.
>> My Sam Hillborne tag says “Serial M14052003 date 4/8/15”.  The frame was 
>> produced in 2014, and I purchased it in April 2015.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front low rider rack for Sam Hillborne

[John Bokman]

My wife has the Front rack on her daily driver (Surly LHT). I got it for 
her because I couldn't find a better alternative for supporting her large 
Wald basket at the time. It is indeed very heavy (2# or so) but so, so 
stout, with multiple attachment points, and hardware for life. I would have 
felt comfortable riding my kids on the front, when they were little. It's 
that strong and well-braced.
Like Scott, I am curious about the Tubus Grand Ex. I would try it if my 
current setup were not so appropriate for my needs. I am a huge fan of 
Tubus. Maybe not the most elegant of racks, but strong! And no heavier than 
need be, with functional design. Good value for money.

John in Portland, OR
On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 3:12:45 PM UTC-7 David Pulsipher wrote:

> I don't have a Sam - but I do have two Surly front racks and love their 
> ruggedness and function. Perfect for lowrider, and also mounting a basket.
>
> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 3:45:12 PM UTC-6 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> I've been super pleased with the Tubus Tara setup on my Sam (converted to 
>> cantilevers). I know you want to use the existing bosses for your rack set 
>> up; I did too. But in practice, the fork clamps for the Tara are excellent 
>> - like everything else they do. They haven't budged in the 7 or so years 
>> I've had them installed - and this is an everyday ride.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 11:58:12 AM UTC-7 Scott wrote:
>>
>>> Bob:
>>>
>>> Have you tried the Tubus Grand Expedition front rack? It's not a tiny 
>>> rack. I've been running it for dirt touring/bikepacking and am very pleased 
>>> with it (as well as the rear counterpart).
>>>
>>> Good luck in your search.
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 04:15:44 PM MDT, BobW  
>>> wrote: 
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the input.  Ideally, I'm looking for a rack where the 
>>> attachment point align with the standard Riv braze on point at the dropout 
>>> and mid-fork.  It appears that the Nitto Mark's MF2 rack that Rive carries 
>>> works, but is kind of pricey @ $221 (
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-marks-hub-area-rack-with-hoop-mf2-20236?_pos=6&_sid=f551ef3e9&_ss=r
>>> )
>>> So looking for less expensive alternatives to this.  Thanks!!
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 10:36:29 AM UTC-4 brianmark...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Not that it's entirely helpful, but when I had a buddy add canti posts 
>>> to my Sam for a 650b conversion, I also had him add lowrider bosses for a 
>>> Tubus Tara. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 9:13:45 AM UTC-4 captaincon...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Here's how I did it:
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQ6G2tBKHaWeErrr8
>>>
>>> I never really used it, but I don't like racks and prefer large front 
>>> handlebar bags.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 4:55:28 PM UTC-5 BobW wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm considering taking my Sam on some bike tours so looking into from 
>>> lowrider rack for front panniers.  I already have a rear Tubus rack, so 
>>> would be wanting to utilize the low riders for additional panniers.  
>>> Looking for suggestions for proven solutions that fit the same well.   BTW, 
>>> my Sam is a non-canti model - sidepull calipers.
>>>
>>> Thanks!!
>>>
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>>>
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/52c37869-24f0-46bf-8f1e-4cf6548f0172n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/52c37869-24f0-46bf-8f1e-4cf6548f0172n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Saddle Cover Issue w/Saddlebag

[John Bokman]

Free is a good price. However, Randi Jo for the win! I have used her covers 
for years here in the PNW on different types of saddles. She makes 
different covers for different saddle shapes. I leave mine all year round. 
They last a very long time. Well worth the money.

John
Portland

On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 10:52:16 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Hi Joyce, 
>
> I have this cover made my Brooks, it stretches over the back of the saddle 
> and covers the bag loops. This pic shows it on a B17 but there's an 
> adjuster thingy at the back (not the velcro strap, that's for rolling it 
> up) and it fits kinda loose on my saddle, it should work on an SA. You 
> wanna try it? Send me a shipping address and you can have it for the low 
> low price of FREE! I inexplicably have two of these and hardly ever use 
> even of them so it's all yours. 
>
> Joe Bernard
> joeremi62 gmail com
> text 415 786 4623 <(415)%20786-4623>
>
> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:25:59 AM UTC-7 JAS wrote:
>
>> I love the look and utility of a saddlebag, thus I've tried a Sackville 
>> Bagboy and Swift Zeitgeist on Platy and Clem obtained from folks on this 
>> list.  Here's the issue:  I have Selle Anatomica leather saddles, the rainy 
>> times are coming to the Pacific Northwest and the saddle cover won't fit 
>> properly with the bags attached.  What's a girl to do?   
>>
>> How do you protect your leather saddle when riding in the rain when 
>> you've got a saddle bag attached to the loops on the saddle?  Do you use a 
>> cover when riding or only when you're off the bike?  I'm not using a Brooks 
>> saddle...do the loops get in the way of the cover or is the Selle Anatomica 
>> design the problem?  I'm probably making a bigger deal out of this than 
>> necessary, but I don't want to wreck my saddle.  Must I remove the 
>> saddlebags and use a trunk bag and/or pannier for winter riding?  Is there 
>> a better solution?  I will look forward to your ideas.
>>
>> Joyce
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: MKS Urban Platform Pedals

[John Bokman]

Any Rivsters out there who tried, and decided to pass on these and are 
willing to let them go (not too dear)? I'm growing tired of my VP VICE 
digging hell out of my shoes, and find the platform is larger than I really 
need. Also, I've had significant durability issues with the bearings, so am 
looking for a silky-smooth pedal my dogs can jibe with that will last. 
(Since I have not tried these, I'm reluctant to buy new and discover they 
are not my cup of tea.)

Bonus: If you have any cage clips I'd be interested in those, too.

Thanks all.

John
Portland OR

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Re: [RBW] Anyone have toe overlap issues?

[John Bokman]

I agree. I ride a 58 cm Sam, and I experience overlap (58cm frame; 175 mm 
cranks; 700x38 tires; berthoud stainless fenders; size 10 street shoes on 
VP Vice pedals). It's a fantastic bike, but overlap can be annoying in stop 
and go traffic and while riding offroad. I wish 58 cm Sams were available 
in 650b!

John

On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 10:36:17 AM UTC-8 Christopher Cote wrote:

> I really dislike toe overlap. I have had it on pretty much every road bike 
> with fenders I've ever had, even a Toyo Atlantis with 26" wheels. It's 
> tolerable for pure paved road riding, but any kind of slow speed 
> underbiking, country biking, hilibiking, etc and it's a no-go for me.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 1:27:51 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:
>
>>
>> My 2015 Sam is the only bike I have ever had toe overlap with. It’s 
>> always interesting when my downgoing toe hits the upgoing front tire on a 
>> low speed turn.  55 Sam, size 10 shoe, 622x42 tires.
>> I thought that, like pedal strike, it was just something you trained 
>> yourself not to do.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[John Bokman]

Thanks for that link Andrew. Very detailed.

-John

On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 8:13:24 AM UTC-8 Andrew Turner wrote:

> I second Analog tubeless tape. Really great stuff. Here's another tutorial 
> for tubeless if needed: http://www.omtm.cc/tire-talk
>
> On Sunday, March 7, 2021 at 6:29:56 AM UTC-6 spencer robinson wrote:
>
>> What Mike M. Said.  Also, Velocity A23/ gravel king tires are a good 
>> match, I have that combo on my Sam, they jumped on the rims with a floor 
>> pump
>>
>> On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 5:27:14 PM UTC-5 velomann wrote:
>>
>>> My experience is limited but so far (knock on wood) positive.
>>> Based on that, and understanding others feel differently (sometimes 
>>> strongly) here's my recommendation.
>>>
>>> Don't use Stans tubeless tape. It's too stiff, hard to apply just right, 
>>> and too thick.
>>> Don't use Gorilla tape for the reasons mentioned.
>>> Buy some of the economical and highly effective tubeless tape Analog 
>>> cycles sells. I don't know what it was originally, but the stuff works 
>>> great. Use two layers because.
>>> https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/
>>>
>>> I bought a Topek Tubibooster because a compressor was overkill for me, I 
>>> didn't want to have to depend on borrowing one from whoever, and I have a 
>>> friend who has been very successful with multiple tubeless set-ups using 
>>> this: 
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-TubiBooster-One-Color-Size/dp/B084Z468P6
>>>
>>> That said, I haven't had to use it. I've so far been able to set up 
>>> tubeless with just a regular Joe Blow floor pump. I credit that to using 
>>> good tubeless rims (HED Belgium, Velocity Dually) and good tubeless 
>>> compatible tires (WTB Byway, WTB Trail Boss), the Analog tape, good 
>>> tubeless valves, and liberal soapy water on the beat before pumping 
>>> vigorously. So far has worked like a charm.
>>>
>>> We'll see if my luck continues. This week I'll be setting up some 
>>> Terravail Sparwood tires on WTB KOM i23 light rims. My next wheelset build 
>>> will be Velocity A23 rims with Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. Fingers 
>>> crossed.
>>>
>>> More tubeless info from Analog Cycles: 
>>> https://analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/
>>>
>>> Learning new bike skills is a good thing. 
>>>
>>> Do It & Good Luck!
>>>
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 8:46:57 PM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Okey dokey folks - I'm thinking I'd like to convert my Clem Smith 
 (650b) to tubeless. Reason being that my neighborhood and favorite route 
 to 
 the trails is pretty much old school industrial and I'm constantly 
 fighting 
 punctures from debris. Since the Alex rims look to support a tubeless set 
 up it seems like I'll need the following;

- tubeless compatible tires
- rim tape (Gorilla)
- tubeless valve stems
- tire sealant

 I have done the same conversion on a dirt motorcycle so familiar with 
 the concept and install procedures but...

 What am I missing? Any caveats? Am I mad to attempt this? Plus any 
 other advice would be most welcome.

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Great Blue Homers

[John Bokman]

I love my quills, but one thing I don't love is that mounting tires is 
frustrating! Dyads, no problem.

On Monday, November 29, 2021 at 8:43:50 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> Send ideas! Dyads or A23s? - Neither - Quills are lighter and take a wider 
> tire and are supposed to be stronger than A23s.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Monday, November 29, 2021 at 11:18:39 AM UTC-5 John G. wrote:
>
>> I ended up deciding to buy a Homer complete. Crashed my wet-weather bike 
>> last Monday and separated my shoulder. Took it as a sign that I need fatter 
>> tires and more stable handling. I have an 90 pbh and I'm going with a 58, 
>> which surprised me, since I would've been a 61.5 last time. Worried it'll 
>> be too small, but I trust Riv. I'm thinking about albastaches or drops, but 
>> I do intend to take this on longer event rides, so I want to be sure the 
>> bars work for that. I have mustaches on my Quickbeam and I love them for 
>> rides up to 40-50 miles.
>>
>> I've never actually bought a complete from Riv, so I'm excited about the 
>> spec'ing process. Send ideas! Dyads or A23s? Albastaches or Noodles? Which 
>> crank? 
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Newbaums over Newbaums?

[John Bokman]

No, actually I'm not looking for more cush. The reason I asked is because I'm 
building up a bike and have some tape that I don't want for the final color, 
but was considering using for a while until I get another color, at which point 
I'd potentially put the new over the old. Just trying to determine if others 
had done it and how the "new" tape would adhere and etc. Thanks for your reply.
John
On Oct 28, 2013, at 3:31 PM, Michael  wrote:

> Are you looking for more cush? Why not cotton over gel strips?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Newbaums over Newbaums?

[John Bokman]

Thanks for your reply Bill. I am building a bike and had a color on hand that I 
don't want for the final color, but thought I might put it down instead of 
going zero tape like Spencer Chan until I get the color i want, at which point 
I'd potentially overlap. Based on what you say, I'll probably just wait to get 
the perfect color. Thanks for your response.
John
On Oct 28, 2013, at 1:40 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I did two layers of newbaums over cork tape on my bullmoose bars making a 
> multilayered grip.  that didn't pose a problem.  In my past life as a 
> mechanic I sometimes double-wrapped for people.  It can get a little lumpy on 
> drop bars.  That first wrap is one-layer thick in some places and overlapped 
> to two layers thick in other places, right?  When it's double wrapped, there 
> will be some places that are only 1+1 = 2 layers thick and other spots that 
> are 2+2 = 4 layers thick.  Only you can decide if that bugs you.  
> 
> The only reason I know of to do it is to make the bars a little bit bigger in 
> your hand.  There's neglible cushion there with one layer or two.  The 
> reasons not to do it would be the potential for lumpiness and the extra $10 
> that you spent.  I re-wrap my bars whenever the mood strikes, and I buy up 
> new colors of newbaums just for fun, so even though it's a decent investment 
> of time, you can always take it apart and do it differently.   
> 
> On Monday, October 28, 2013 12:30:33 PM UTC-7, john wrote:
> Looking for advice concerning wrapping cloth tape over cloth tape. Any issues 
> with the second layer adhering properly? Prosvs.cons?
> Thanks.
> J.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Newbaums over Newbaums?

[John Bokman]

Thanks for your comment, Kieran.
On Oct 28, 2013, at 5:17 PM, Kieran J  wrote:

> I have two layers of Newbaum's on the Ram, no problems with the 2nd layer 
> sticking to the 1st.
> 
> KJ
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, October 28, 2013 7:59:08 PM UTC-4, john wrote:
> No, actually I'm not looking for more cush. The reason I asked is because I'm 
> building up a bike and have some tape that I don't want for the final color, 
> but was considering using for a while until I get another color, at which 
> point I'd potentially put the new over the old. Just trying to determine if 
> others had done it and how the "new" tape would adhere and etc. Thanks for 
> your reply.
> John
> On Oct 28, 2013, at 3:31 PM, Michael  wrote:
> 
>> Are you looking for more cush? Why not cotton over gel strips?
>> 
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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto Stems, Jannd Rack, Soma Tires

[John Bokman]

Sure. Let me know where to send it. Are you okay with paying postage? I don't 
know how much something like that would cost. I'm on paypal at my email address.
On Nov 4, 2013, at 10:46 AM, john  wrote:

> Hi all. I've got several stems I'm no longer using. Maybe one or some of you 
> are in need? also a great rough stuff front rack, and Week old tires in 
> 700x37.
> The stems are measured (in photos) from center to center. There's a Dirt Drop 
> 10", Regular 10", Technomic 12". The rack does not come with attachment 
> parts; you're on your own there.
> 
> Tires: $50 (new they're $100, and they're basically new, having only ridden 
> them maybe 40 miles).
> Stems: make an offer.
> Rack: make an offer.
> 
> Check out the photos.
> Thanks,
> John
> johnco...@comcast.net
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Massively upgraded Appaloosa

[John Bokman]

 I would love to hear how the new brakes compare (stop, modulate) to the 
generics. Thanks for the post. I love the simplicity and function of the 
V-brakes I
have used. 

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 10:42:30 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> On one of the lists...maybe this one, maybe iBob, somebody listed a set of 
> XTR V-brakes and levers for a price too-good-to-pass up.  My Appaloosa 
> complete came with generic V-Brakes, and worked perfectly fine, as generic 
> V-Brakes always do.  Nevertheless, the too-good-to-pass-up price led me to 
> upgrade.  Now my Appaloosa is rocking XTR brakes.  They came to me with 
> worn out stock brake pads, but I had some new salmon koolstops on hand, 
> natch.  
> The XTR levers have their clamp bolt tucked out of the way, playing nice 
> with the inside mount thumbies.  While I was doing the swap, I was able to 
> deploy my new favorite find:  I bought a shop-roll of Jagwire brake housing 
> from Jenson USA that is reflective!  It's black housing with a silvery 
> stripe.  The silvery stripe is bright white reflective when car headlights 
> shine on it.  An entrepreneurial type should buy a shop-roll and then 
> re-sell it in single bike quantities to conspicuity zealots.  
>
> Anyway, pictures prove that Appaloosa is upgradeable.  
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Website is live featuring beautiful bikes & surroundings

[John Bokman]

Beautiful photos. Well done site. Thanks.

On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 6:05:09 PM UTC-7, Andrew Turner wrote:
>
> COVID gave me time to spruce up my website  and 
> it's at a point where I'm comfortable making it public. The majority of it 
> is dedicated to riding and the surroundings I'm lucky enough to see and 
> document, so I figured I'd share it here. 
>
> Enjoy! 
> - Andrew
>

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[RBW] New Saddlebag Cotton

[John Bokman]

I have used Carradice bags and still use a Cartwright series Baggins 
saddlebag (Adam). My one gripe with these bags is that excess moisture can 
provide a good environment for mildew growth. I ride in a moist climate 
(Portland, OR) and am not always able to bring my bike in for storage while 
at work. Thus, in the 8 months a year when it rains, a saddlebag can become 
saturated and not completely dry.

This is not a knock on the bags, just a fact of life in a wet climate using 
this material. So I am curious to know if the newer Scottish Cotton fabric 
is more impervious to microbial growth than the older cotton that Riv used 
for their bags (or indeed than Carradice cotton). 

As a data point: I have used a Nylon X-PAC handlebar bag that has also 
fallen victim to mildew growth - albeit not as quickly or with such 
deleterious effects - so I believe no product is 100% impervious given long 
hours in the rain without being able to come inside more often. I'm not 
expecting a miracle fabric in this regard, just curious if the newer cotton 
is any better than the older concerning microbes.

Also another thought regarding waxed cotton: I don't believe I would apply 
wax any longer. Seems to me it just traps the funk and prevents the bag 
from breathing.

Of course, this is all academic at present, as it is nearly 100 degrees 
outside with no chance of rain in sight! But I have been considering 
another saddlebag, and one thing that might prevent me from doing so would 
be the thought of microbial growth


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Re: [RBW] WTB or Trade: Nitto Mini Front Rack 32F

[John Bokman]

Justin:

Sure, I'll gladly sell the mark's rack. You should know the struts are cut to 
fit a 60" frame. Any larger and they may not fit. Just let me know what the 
rack is worth to you.

Thanks, John.
On Jul 7, 2013, at 3:28 PM, justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'll buy that Mark's if you are looking for relocation. 
> 
> -Justin
> justinaug...@gmail.com
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

[John Bokman]

This bag is really meant to be attatched to a decaleur, or mounting  
system which makes the bag quick release. That is to say, one can use  
it by attatching it to the platform of the front rack without a  
decaleur, but it will be most stable when using a decaleur. This type  
of bag is meant to be resting on the front rack, but secured by the  
decaleur. That said, Martina has placed her velcro straps on the  
bottom of the bag very nicely, and there is a strong bond to the rack  
just using the straps. Still, if  you are riding on rough roads, I  
would recommend using this bag with a decaleur.

On Sep 15, 2012, at 10:55 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J wrote:

Does this attach securely to, say, a Mark's Rack?  How much does it  
wobble, unloaded and loaded?


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners- 
bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of john

Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 10:27 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: A little OT: Swift Industries interview

I've got a Swift Cycles Rando bag for sale. New, never used.  
Gorgeous. $225, shipped.Check out their website.


On Monday, September 10, 2012 10:06:32 AM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:
I got to interview Martina from Swift this weekend. They make super  
nice bags for bicycles, and the waxed canvas option is excellent  
and quite Riv-ish. Check it out if you like. http:// 
cyclingillustrated.com/local-maker-interview-vol-1-swift-industries- 
by-scot-hinckley/


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[RBW] Re: Please tell me about your experience with caliper braked Hillbornes.

[John Bokman]

I had the stock Tektros on my Sam. Found them lacking. I'd been using 
Cantis for years,and this was my first forray into sidepulls in years. I 
think the long arms resulted in too much flex. They were easy to adjust, 
however. Easily the easiest brakes I've used to set up and maintain. But in 
wet Oregon, not so great for me.
I use Paul Racer on a different bike, and they are heads and shoulders 
better for stopping. I don't care for their looks, but they work great. 
Worth the money to me.

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 2:36:35 PM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> Friends, 
>
> I'm considering the purchase of a lightly used Sam Hillborne--the caliper 
> brake version. The only thing giving me pause is that it has been a while 
> since I had anything with caliper brakes. The long reach required would 
> seem to limit my options to the Paul Racer Centerpulls and the 
> Tektro/Silver R559 brakes. Anyone want to share their experiences with 
> these brakes, particularly on the Hillborne? 
>
> If money were no object, would replacing R559s with Pauls be a good idea? 
> (The bike would come with R559s on it, but I am who I am and will look to 
> tinker eventually...)
>
> For background, intended use is as a primarily on road bike with a small 
> front rack, 38mm tires, and fenders. I'm six foot two, and weigh 235-245. I 
> live in Portland, so the bike will be ridden in the rain. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brett
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[John Bokman]

I have been really enjoying the convenience of loading my front rack (Nitto 
32-f) with a grocery bag full of goods in my Ocean Air Docena (Swift) bag 
for years.  In fact, yesterday, i loaded way more than I should have - at 
22 pounds of goods (I weighed it when I got home cause I was curious). I 
was nervous about the load, even though it rode remarkably well - until I 
was at a stop and had massive wheel flop.  Still, prudence tells me, as 
much as a big load in the front bag is convenient, it's not safer than two  
panniers on my low-riders (Tubus Tara) on my Sam. I think, all equal, for 
load stability and safety, if you're  gonna cary big loads, keep them low 
and off the front wheel - no matter what front rack you have (excepting a 
Surly Nice Rack or Nitto Big Front Rack, of course, which are both 
monsters).

On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 9:23:46 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> My limit on my VO Rando rack is filling up my GBerthoud GB25 bag. I don’t 
> add more than thst as I was told that the VO rando is ok up to maybe 15lbs 
> iirc. BTW Those Bertie bags are heavy even empty. 
> My GB 25 is with Nitto for Pearl stems decaleur bar attachment on bag, no 
> stiffner- 604g Hea-vy!!!

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[RBW] Re: Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[John Bokman]

Patrick, You've spoken to this before, so excuse my poor memory. I'm having 
difficulty choosing between the 2x ventile and hybrid fabrics. I know in 
practice, where i ride (Western Oregon), my arms will get wet if I'm not in 
a plastic fabric. Im therefore thinking 2x Ventile might be a better choice 
for me than Hybrid. Yes, it's good to have additional protection at 
shoulders, but if the arms are soaked, that's not real pleasant. Problem 
is, in 2x Ventile, there is no "Blaze" orange to be seen. only the colors 
i'd want when trail walking. 
I was one of the early customers of their single ventile gilet, and like it 
very much. Perhaps not "waterproof" but comfortable, good zippers, good 
pockets, and in (at least partial, if not all) blaze orange.



On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 9:44:59 AM UTC-7, Mark Schneider wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> I bought the Greenspot a few years ago after I read your recommendation. 
> (The analogy being too warm for my climate zone)The dual layer is very warm 
> but the fabric keeps me dry and comfortable as long as it's cool enough 
> out. The fabric breaths much better than GoreTex or the chex aper 
> laminates. I love all the pockets on the Greenspot it great for all cool 
> weather outdoor activity.
> Mark
>
> On Tuesday, August 28, 2018 at 2:56:34 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Best rain jacket I’ve ever had, going on over five years now. No 
>> affiliation, just a very satisfied customer. 20% off cotton analogy through 
>> August. https://hilltrek.co.uk/shop-by-material/cotton-analogy/
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[john Bokman]

Thanks Patrick!
Interestingly, the 2x Ventile is the same weight as Cotton Analogy. I’d rather 
buy all cotton “all things equal” unless there is a clear reason to do 
otherwise. I like the smock option best, BTW. Less zipper, perhaps slightly 
more cumbersome to put on, but the kangaroo pockets are a real bonus for me. 
(I’d upset to the side zips, as well.)
> On Aug 29, 2018, at 9:12 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> John, I’d recommend double ventile or cotton analogy for what you just 
> described. Single layer soaks through where horizontal, such as sleeves on a 
> bike, or sitting and enjoying a pipe. For blaze orange (or red, which I 
> prefer, because it is equally visible, but not flourescent and thus 
> bikey/racy and so people seem to be friendlier), I’d email them.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[john Bokman]

Thanks Patrick and Andy for your assistance. Very interesting about the 
coloration of cottons. I had no idea.

I’m not one who would wear “neon” green or yellow, but I’m partial to a “warm” 
color like orange or red to be seen on the road.

Guys: Do you have size zips for your smock? I would suspect they’d not only 
help with removal but with allowing more airflow?

I assume with the weight of the smock being over 2#, I would only need a thin 
layer underneath and I’d be plenty warm. Most of my rain season (8 months a 
year)  riding is done at (wet) temperatures between 35-60 degrees. 

Any additional comments on your products and use are welcome as I try to make 
choices. I’m sick and tired of burning through plastics, no matter how 
“advanced” or “improved”.
> On Aug 30, 2018, at 4:46 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
> 
> John, that's the item I have now, their Braemar smock, in red. 
> 
> Fluorescent colors in fabrics are a bit more susceptible to UV degradation of 
> the pigments that produce the fluorescent color effect. The base fabric 
> dictates the  necessity of chemical characteristics of a coloring dye, cotton 
> is one of the hardest to accommodate. If interested: 
> https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/Newsletter/archive/2013/01A/The_Perils_and_Pitfalls_of_Dyeing_Neon_Colors.PDF
>  
> <https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/Newsletter/archive/2013/01A/The_Perils_and_Pitfalls_of_Dyeing_Neon_Colors.PDF>
> 
> Back in my late '80s outdoor retail days, when fluorescent ("neon") colors 
> ruled ski gear, we had a one day in the window policy for displays. They were 
> rotated to even the exposure and the merchandisers had worksheets that were 
> kept by the displays near the UV blocking windows because we observed fade 
> from brief display in direct sunlight despite the glass choice, even 
> non-fluorescent colors. 
> 
> In that same era Grant wrote in the 1991 Bridgestone catalog about color: 
> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1991/pages/bridgestone-1991-17.htm 
> <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1991/pages/bridgestone-1991-17.htm>
> 
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
> 
> On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 12:19:14 AM UTC-4, John Bokman wrote:
> Thanks Patrick! 
> Interestingly, the 2x Ventile is the same weight as Cotton Analogy. I’d 
> rather buy all cotton “all things equal” unless there is a clear reason to do 
> otherwise. I like the smock option best, BTW. Less zipper, perhaps slightly 
> more cumbersome to put on, but the kangaroo pockets are a real bonus for me. 
> (I’d upset to the side zips, as well.) 
> > On Aug 29, 2018, at 9:12 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
> > > wrote: 
> > 
> > John, I’d recommend double ventile or cotton analogy for what you just 
> > described. Single layer soaks through where horizontal, such as sleeves on 
> > a bike, or sitting and enjoying a pipe. For blaze orange (or red, which I 
> > prefer, because it is equally visible, but not flourescent and thus 
> > bikey/racy and so people seem to be friendlier), I’d email them. 
> > 
> > With abandon, 
> > Patrick 
> > 
> > -- 
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Re: [RBW] Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[john Bokman]

Andy, I didn’t realize the Braemar had pit zips? I don’t see this detail on 
their specifications page. Pit zips would certainly help in airflow no matter 
what the fabric.

You have the DV or the Hybrid?

> On Aug 30, 2018, at 10:02 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
> 
> I didn't option my Braemar with side zips, I get how they could be helpful 
> when getting out of the smock/anorak. Available on the customization options 
> for 50 BSP. As airflow is concerned, with my neck zip down and the pit zips 
> opened up, ventilation is not an issue. Certainly not for the complication 
> and $65 of the option. I vote with entropy; avoid unnecessary complexities to 
> assure prolonged baseline function.
> 
> I am very pleased with my garment and simply ecstatic to have found something 
> that is not synthetic, crunchy, stiff, and noisy. My experiences with 
> technical shells has been highlighted by inferior water repelling 
> performance, poor vapor ventilation, and lack of sustained function or 
> durability under regular use. I think my 2-3 year cycle of disappointment 
> with shell jackets is over now.
> 
> I picked red as Patrick did for the visibility practicality. I have both a 
> reflective mesh Nathan safety vest and reflective Tuvizo belt/shoulder strap 
> rig to wear on top if my visibility concerns are greater than that. 
> 
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 8:57:06 AM UTC-4, John Bokman wrote:
> Thanks Patrick and Andy for your assistance. Very interesting about the 
> coloration of cottons. I had no idea.
> 
> I’m not one who would wear “neon” green or yellow, but I’m partial to a 
> “warm” color like orange or red to be seen on the road.
> 
> Guys: Do you have size zips for your smock? I would suspect they’d not only 
> help with removal but with allowing more airflow?
> 
> I assume with the weight of the smock being over 2#, I would only need a thin 
> layer underneath and I’d be plenty warm. Most of my rain season (8 months a 
> year)  riding is done at (wet) temperatures between 35-60 degrees. 
> 
> Any additional comments on your products and use are welcome as I try to make 
> choices. I’m sick and tired of burning through plastics, no matter how 
> “advanced” or “improved”.
>> On Aug 30, 2018, at 4:46 AM, ascpgh gmail.com 
>> <http://gmail.com/>> wrote:
>> 
>> John, that's the item I have now, their Braemar smock, in red. 
>> 
>> Fluorescent colors in fabrics are a bit more susceptible to UV degradation 
>> of the pigments that produce the fluorescent color effect. The base fabric 
>> dictates the  necessity of chemical characteristics of a coloring dye, 
>> cotton is one of the hardest to accommodate. If interested: 
>> https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/Newsletter/archive/2013/01A/The_Perils_and_Pitfalls_of_Dyeing_Neon_Colors.PDF
>>  
>> <https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/Newsletter/archive/2013/01A/The_Perils_and_Pitfalls_of_Dyeing_Neon_Colors.PDF>
>> 
>> Back in my late '80s outdoor retail days, when fluorescent ("neon") colors 
>> ruled ski gear, we had a one day in the window policy for displays. They 
>> were rotated to even the exposure and the merchandisers had worksheets that 
>> were kept by the displays near the UV blocking windows because we observed 
>> fade from brief display in direct sunlight despite the glass choice, even 
>> non-fluorescent colors. 
>> 
>> In that same era Grant wrote in the 1991 Bridgestone catalog about color: 
>> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1991/pages/bridgestone-1991-17.htm 
>> <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1991/pages/bridgestone-1991-17.htm>
>> 
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>> 
>> On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 12:19:14 AM UTC-4, John Bokman wrote:
>> Thanks Patrick! 
>> Interestingly, the 2x Ventile is the same weight as Cotton Analogy. I’d 
>> rather buy all cotton “all things equal” unless there is a clear reason to 
>> do otherwise. I like the smock option best, BTW. Less zipper, perhaps 
>> slightly more cumbersome to put on, but the kangaroo pockets are a real 
>> bonus for me. (I’d upset to the side zips, as well.) 
>> > On Aug 29, 2018, at 9:12 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>> > > wrote: 
>> > 
>> > John, I’d recommend double ventile or cotton analogy for what you just 
>> > described. Single layer soaks through where horizontal, such as sleeves on 
>> > a bike, or sitting and enjoying a pipe. For blaze orange (or red, which I 
>> > prefer, because it is equally visible, but not flourescent and thus 
>> > bikey/racy and so people se

Re: [RBW] Hilltrek Ventile Cotton Analogy Sale

[John Bokman]

Well, I opted for the 2x Ventile Greenspot jacket, even though I was really 
interested in a smock. It won't be here for 6-8 weeks, so won't be able to 
report for a while yet.
I wanted the jacket because it will be primarily used as a 
commuting/general purpose jacket, and a zipper is more convenient for me  
in those situations. If I were buying a specific use garment I'd rather go 
with the smock.

And based on the interesting notes from Andy about color impregnation, I 
opted for dull, drab Olive green, because, for my use, it's more versatile. 
If I want to be seen - I do - I'll employ a vest of some sort over the 
jacket when it's truly dark. 

Thanks to you guys who chimed in with thoughts, impressions, and opinions.

BTW, Dave over at Hilltrek is very helpful, and prompt with his responses 
to my many questions over the internet.

On Friday, August 31, 2018 at 2:05:14 AM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:
>
> John, you're right and I've lost my mind! Ghosts of previous shells that 
> needed pit zips any more have addled me. Only dropping the front zip has 
> been necessary to get all the venting needed (duh, that was the primary 
> attraction of Ventile to me).
>
> Sorry for the confusion. It clearly has been warm enough that I've been 
> without my Braemar's use for some months. 
>
> Side note: Farmer's Almanac says it's going to be very cold and snowy 
> here. I'll be in it daily for long stretches soon.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 11:21:29 PM UTC-4, John Bokman wrote:
>>
>> Andy, I didn’t realize the Braemar had pit zips? I don’t see this detail 
>> on their specifications page. Pit zips would certainly help in airflow no 
>> matter what the fabric.
>>
>> You have the DV or the Hybrid?
>>
>> On Aug 30, 2018, at 10:02 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
>>
>> I didn't option my Braemar with side zips, I get how they could be 
>> helpful when getting out of the smock/anorak. Available on the 
>> customization options for 50 BSP. As airflow is concerned, with my neck zip 
>> down and the pit zips opened up, ventilation is not an issue. Certainly not 
>> for the complication and $65 of the option. I vote with entropy; avoid 
>> unnecessary complexities to assure prolonged baseline function.
>>
>> I am very pleased with my garment and simply ecstatic to have found 
>> something that is not synthetic, crunchy, stiff, and noisy. My experiences 
>> with technical shells has been highlighted by inferior water repelling 
>> performance, poor vapor ventilation, and lack of sustained function or 
>> durability under regular use. I think my 2-3 year cycle of disappointment 
>> with shell jackets is over now.
>>
>> I picked red as Patrick did for the visibility practicality. I have both 
>> a reflective mesh Nathan safety vest and reflective Tuvizo belt/shoulder 
>> strap rig to wear on top if my visibility concerns are greater than that. 
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 8:57:06 AM UTC-4, John Bokman wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks Patrick and Andy for your assistance. Very interesting about the 
>>> coloration of cottons. I had no idea.
>>>
>>> I’m not one who would wear “neon” green or yellow, but I’m partial to a 
>>> “warm” color like orange or red to be seen on the road.
>>>
>>> Guys: Do you have size zips for your smock? I would suspect they’d not 
>>> only help with removal but with allowing more airflow?
>>>
>>> I assume with the weight of the smock being over 2#, I would only need a 
>>> thin layer underneath and I’d be plenty warm. Most of my rain season (8 
>>> months a year)  riding is done at (wet) temperatures between 35-60 degrees. 
>>>
>>> Any additional comments on your products and use are welcome as I try to 
>>> make choices. I’m sick and tired of burning through plastics, no matter how 
>>> “advanced” or “improved”.
>>>
>>> On Aug 30, 2018, at 4:46 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
>>>
>>> John, that's the item I have now, their Braemar smock, in red. 
>>>
>>> Fluorescent colors in fabrics are a bit more susceptible to UV 
>>> degradation of the pigments that produce the fluorescent color effect. The 
>>> base fabric dictates the  necessity of chemical characteristics of a 
>>> coloring dye, cotton is one of the hardest to accommodate. If interested: 
>>> https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/Newsletter/archive/2013/01A/The_Perils_and_Pitfalls_of_Dyeing_Neon_Colors.PDF
>>>
>>> Back in 

[RBW] Re: Recomendations For Cycling-Specific Vehicle

[John Bokman]

I've got a Toyota Matrix, and i can fit my 58 cm Hillborne in without 
removing the wheels! The front seat goes flat, as do the rear seats. And 
the nice thing is, the backing of the seats is just hard plastic - nothing 
to snag or get grimy that can't easily be cleaned. It's easy to slide the 
bike on its side in there, rear wheel first.

If I were getting something different I would be sorely tempted by the Ford 
Transit. But how does one keep the bike upright? And can the seats be 
removed, or just made to lie flat? Seems like it might be a tight squeeze 
(height-wise) with a taller frame, but I don't know, never done it. Same 
with the Element: Is it close to the ceiling with the bike upright?


On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 10:36:00 AM UTC-7, sameness wrote:
>
> FWIW, we just purchased a new Nissan NV200 compact 
>  
> for the work fleet, and while I haven't tried it yet, my eyeball tells me I 
> could fit three drop-barred bikes in their upright position back there. 
>
> Obviously no long term reports on reliability, but it was only $20K out 
> the door, which is a nice start.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

[John Bokman]

Proto-Rivster for sure. 
I was in the IBOB with the paper leaflets. Had a MB-3 (I think it was?) 
from 1986. It was a really cool grey-gren color with some red in there in 
places.
Then I had an MB-2, purple, that i got in 1990, if memory serves. That one 
had a really quick front end that I never quite got used to. But it sure 
was fun for the off-roading I was doing at the time. Sold that in 1994 to 
get the X0-3 (supposedly the last one in Northern California in 55.5cm). 
This was the last year of the Bridgestone X0-3s. I rode that bike all over 
the place, from Off-roading (I put on 26x1.95" tires), to an ocassional 
Off-Road race, to some short tours, to road rides, and commuting. It was my 
only bike, and a great one although always a scooch too small for true road 
riding.  At the time, it was novel to be able to switch from 1.25" slicks 
to fatter knobbies all on the same bike! And using Moustache bars, I could 
get comfortable in several positions to suit my riding terrain. I still 
have that bike, currently being rebuilt for my daughter.

So I knew about Grant from the BOB group (I think I was number 3706, or 
maybe 3607 - I used to have the card, but have since lost it). Therefore, 
When Riv started,I lusted after the All-Rounder. It just seemed the perfect 
bike for me. But it was way out of my budget. Then I lusted after the 
Atlantis. For years and years. But it too was way out of my budget. I 
always lusted after the Road Standards, and the Long Low.

Years and years later, I finally got my Riv: a 2009, first-gen Sam, so 
officially, Im in the 2xTT era, although my 60cm did not have the 2xTT 
(which for me is a good thing, as I'm not smitten with the 2xTT). I rode 
the bike sucessfuly and mostly enjoyably for 7 years, but always felt it 
was too large a frame.I knew the bones were right, but it just didn't fit 
as well as I knew it could. So I sold the frame and got a 58, and swapped 
the parts over, and I'm happy as a clam. The Sam has proven to be my 
All-Rounder. It just is so comfortable, rides so well, does everything I 
ask of it. I could not imagine ever needing "more bike" for the riding I 
do. I could ride heavily loaded for thousands of miles. In fact, I'd vote 
for Sam as being their "touring bike" rather than the "country bike". In my 
estimation, it's plenty stout. I regularly carry heavy loads and it just 
rides like nobody's business...it's just a super fun, do-most workhorse of 
a bike. 

Having said all that...I still lust after the older models. As much as i 
love my Sam, aesthetically I prefer the straight-across top tube.  I'd love 
to find a Ram, or a Road Standard. I no longer need the All-Rounder or 
Atlantis, because I've got my Sam. 

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 10:13:26 AM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Aha! All those Roscos were pretty experimental, and cut across the strata 
> in interesting ways. 
> The *Arcana* or *Enigmatic* Rivs would also include Patrick Moore's 26" 
> wheeled road bikes, the Mystery Bike, and the custom fixed-gear mountain 
> bike that caused such a stir several years ago. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>
>
> On Thursday, September 27, 2018 at 7:16:20 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Can we throw an 'Experimental' or 'Avant Garde' Epoch for the odd ball 
>> Rosco's and any other one off frames they've done ;) I love my Rosco Road.
>>
>> I was turned on during the AHH/Sam/Atlantis/Hunq days so that is where my 
>> heart lies, even though I don't have any of those (anymore). So a 2TTer. 
>> But I've always leaned toward the Golden Age and keep my eye out for an 
>> orange Ram (especially after seeing Evan's).
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Things I wish Rivendell still sold..

[John Bokman]

I've also been waiting for a 26" wheeled bike from Riv since the 
all-rounder. Although I'm not a short rider (I'm 6' tall, with 89cm PBH), I 
want to ride a 26" wheeled bike once again. Quick, nimble, fun, and 
versatile tire sizes. I love my Sam, but I'd buy a 26"er in a heartbeat if 
one was offered.

On Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 8:48:18 AM UTC-8, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> I would like to third this idea. I was hoping the upcoming mtb would have 
> a 26” wheel, but am told all too often its a dead end. Steve
>
> On Tue, Nov 13, 2018 at 11:41 AM S. Greco  > wrote:
>
>> +1 for All Rounder
>>
>> I would buy one today if it was available (as a standard non-custom 
>> priced frame)
>>
>> I really wish Riv would really add a 26" XO/All Rounder style ride into 
>> the lineup
>>
>>
>> -- 
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> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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[RBW] Re: 59cm MIT Atlantis build and (short) ride report

[John Bokman]

Hot! Love the drops!
Will be very interested in hearing about ride quality, comparrisons vs. 
shorter wheelbase bike.I'd also be on a 59. Love my Sam, but I've always 
lusted after an Atlantis, and this one, with dropsoh my.

On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 1:35:23 PM UTC-7, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just finished my Atlantis build and I couldn't be happier. I've been 
> coveting (and riding) Bridgestones and Rivendells since the 90s and, though 
> I had a Quickbeam and still have vintage B-stones and a bunch of vintage 
> bikes, my last major/modern build was based around a 60cm LHT with 26-inch 
> wheels and Compass RTP tires. Just couldn't justify/afford a Rivendell 
> build five years ago. And that's ok, the LHT has served me well and will 
> continue to be my rough weather/winter bike. But I've been wanting a new, 
> geared Rivendell for a long time.
>
> The sizing on the Sams was just off enough for me (I'm right between the 
> 58 and 62) to pass on it the couple times I got serious and I never took a 
> serious look at the Appaloosa. I have a collection of vintage 80s mountain 
> bikes that are just too close to justify getting a Clem. So when I saw the 
> new Atlantis I was hooked. I have always loved the color and I've been 
> dying to try the modern long wheelbase Rivs. 
>
> I've built a lot of bikes with different versions of the classic riv build 
> so I was looking to do something different and (in my mind) modern. I 
> decided on a 1x11 (ended up with a 1x10), fat tires, and the super wide 
> Crust bars (swapped from my LHT which will go back to an upright bar). I 
> was worried about having to use a couple black parts to make the 1x10 set 
> up work but I think it looks pretty cool. I can do a full parts list if 
> anyone is interested.
>
> I will still use my LHT for the majority of my committing and winter/rain 
> riding. The Atlantis will be used for longer rides and hopefully adding 
> some more serious mileage to my routine. I've seen my pleasure riding 
> diminish recently, so it's time for a new bike and some new roads.
>
> I finished it last night and was able to get a few miles on it before dark 
> (and of course it's been raining all day today!). I immediately found it a 
> really engaging ride, especially compared to the LHT which is stable but a 
> bit "dead." I'm a big guy and the combination of the stout frame, long 
> wheelbase, and fat Compass 55cm tires makes for a stable and lively ride. I 
> LOVE the extended read end, especially when cornering and accelerating from 
> a seated position. I'll post a more detailed ride update with the rain 
> clears.
>
> I should note that it took 2 chains because of the wheelbase, other than 
> that everything went smoothly on the build.
>
> Best,
> Brynnar
> Indy
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Reader index?

[John Bokman]

i'm looking to find Grant's thoughts on front loading the bike, 
specifically his thoughts on carrying the weight on a rack top, or higher 
than traditional low riders. I know he's written about this, but now going 
through my readers, I can't find where. Anyone have a clue?

On Saturday, December 23, 2017 at 11:57:15 AM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>
> This post prompted me to look through my file of RR's to see how many I'm 
> missing.  Turns out that when I first subscribed they sent me the next 
> issue in publication, #10, along with #'s 3 and 4, which they must've had 
> extras of laying around.  So, I'm missing 1&2 and 5-9.  Looking through 
> this index I notice that there were a lot of good articles in some of those 
> early readers, especially in the 5-9 issues that I'm missing.  Some of 
> those articles used to be posted separately on the Riv website, but I 
> cannot find them there any longer for some reason (e.g., "Raise Dat Stem" 
> (which would have been helpful during a recent thread about drop bars vs. 
> upright), "The Myth of KOPS" (a topic that also pops up now and then), and 
> several articles by well known experts in bicycle construction and riding. 
>  Too bad.
>
> On Saturday, December 23, 2017 at 10:34:11 AM UTC-6, jbu...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>>
>> happy holidaze, Gang, 
>>
>> Am I crazy to recall that there was an index sheet / master table of 
>> contents for the Rivendell Reader at some point? Anyone have a copy 
>> available? 
>>
>> I need to find my USB cork!!! 
>>
>> Hoping all your saddle sacks are hung by the chimney with care 
>> =- Joe Bunik 
>> Walnut Creek, CA 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Real ride comparison: Joe Appaloosa vs Sam Hillborne vs Roadini?

[John Bokman]

I expect you'll love the Sam. I had a Sam (2009) that was, what I 
considered, too large for me (a 60cm frame). Even though I was just long of 
leg enough for the 60cm frame, with my 89 PBH, I felt too stretched out on 
the long top tube. I could have chosen the (then) 56cm frame. Wish I had 
done that. In retrospect, it would have been perfect. After 7 years on the 
bike, I took off the parts and got a (new school) 58cm Sam. I absolutely 
love it, and it's the ride I always wanted from the original but never got. 
I'm right in the middle of the size range. It's one of the best fitting 
bikes I've ever ridden. I load Sam to the hilt, and it's great for that. I 
ride it unladen, and it's great for that, too. It's always carrying racks, 
front and rear (Tubus Logo Evo and Tara, respectively, and a Nitto mini 
front, always with a Ocean Air Docena front bag). It's a splendid ride. 
Once you get a Riv that really, truly fits, it's bliss.

On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 10:09:10 AM UTC-8, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Well, decision made here - a 58cm black/cream Sam frame is somewhere, most 
> likely bobbing on the ocean, making its way to me.  The decision really 
> hinged, not only on the good advice and info from people, but really on the 
> question of sizing.  If my ~89cm PBH fit squarely in the middle of the 
> recommended sizes/PBH's for the Roadini I might have gone that way.  That 
> said, and it's been said before, a bike that fits well is a wonderful 
> thing, the most important thing, and I have complete confidence the 58cm 
> Sam will fit me perfectly, both in size and for the riding I do.  I also 
> have a few more parts laying around for the Sam build versus the Roadini.
>
> The only problem is I somewhat justified the new frame by thinking I had 
> the discipline to part out my Cheviot, using the wheels and such for the 
> Sam, and, somewhat predictably, I don't think I can do it!  The Cheviot is 
> just too nice, too special...  So the future-Sam will attract its parts 
> from a different bike, from the stash, from wherever needed or what appears.
>
> Anyway, I agree with almost all of the statements and observations stated! 
>  I do think the Roadini is a cool frame and could be built as almost 
> anything.  But, at least around here, using the gravel roads when exploring 
> is almost a given.  The good (paved) bike roads are many times best tied 
> together with the gravel farm roads so there was that.  And I never could 
> get completely confident with the Roadini sizing for me - and I admit I 
> could very well be wrong on that.  Still, in my particular situation, the 
> Sam won out and I am excited!  
>
> Best to all and here's to great rides and adventures in the new year,
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL
>
>
> On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 9:59:22 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Don’t get me wrong. I agree that a Roadini with 28mm tires, fenders, 
>> dynamo lighting, front low rider panniers and a not-huge saddlebag could 
>> make an awesome stealth S24O or weekend sport touring rig. I have no doubt 
>> I could pull that off. 
>>
>> The OP is in Galesburg. The bike I used to have stashed in a Galesburg 
>> garage was a 1992 RB-1. That was a stripped down racing bike and it was 
>> just dandy. It’s a nice 70-mike out and back to Oquawka, where you can dip 
>> your front wheel in the Mississippi River.  A stripped down race bike is 
>> all you ‘need’ for that. If I wanted to get onto the gravel farm-roads, I’d 
>> want a little more floatation, I think. 
>>
>> It depends on what the OP wants.  Both the Sam and the Roadini are 
>> terrific. It’s easy to underestimate the touring capabilities of a Roadini 
>> and it’s easy to underestimate the pure road bike capability of a Sam. 
>>
>> Bill Lindsay 
>> El Cerrito Ca 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cumil the Peeper sold me a Canti-Sam frameset

[John Bokman]

Rod, good for you. I have two bikes, a 61cm  OAC Rambler, and a 58cm Sam. 
Both fantastic bikes; they always bring glee. Build them soon as you can!

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 1:02:42 PM UTC-8, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Last night I read Grant's Blahg, and these words clicked for me: "Don't 
> buy what you don't need, but also don't wait too long if it's in your 
> cards, anyway." So I ordered a 58cm Canti-Sam frameset, which joins a 59cm 
> Ocean Air Rambler F/F/HS+brakes and an old Nobilette go-fast frame and fork 
> in the winter-build queue. I guess that puts me at n+3, and I'm not sure 
> which build will come first, now, but it did seem like the time to buy a 
> Rivendell, from Rivendell.
>
> rod
>

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[RBW] Re: Good New/Bad News on my repaired Atlantis

[John Bokman]

John  I'm curious about your squealing CX-70 brakes. I use them on my Sam 
and have found them to be quiet, and the best functioning cantilevers I've 
ever used. Could it be your brake pads, or toe in perhaps? Having said 
this, I use Paul center pulls on another bike, and they are also fantastic. 



On Saturday, January 6, 2018 at 3:56:15 PM UTC-8, John G. wrote:-
>
> Thanks, all! Mark, I’ll be using your short term solution while the 
> Waterford touch-up is en route. 
>
> It’s such a relief to have the Atlantis back. Some time apart just 
> reinforced how much I love that bike, squealing lousy cx-70 cantis and all.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Good New/Bad News on my repaired Atlantis

[john Bokman]

John, I’ll be most interested in hearing how the Paul Touring Cantis work for 
you. I myself have thought of getting the Paul Neo Retros, Touring, or Linear 
Pull Motolites in the past. I would definitely consider them on a new build. 
Please post your observations when you set them.
> On Jan 8, 2018, at 4:48 PM, John G.  wrote:
> 
> Jock: good info! Thanks for sharing! This needs to enter Official Atlantis 
> Lore.
> 
> John: I've put two separate brake pads on my CX-70s, the stock ones and 
> Kool-Stops. Both squealed a ton. I even had them adjusted at a shop once or 
> twice, and that never seemed to work. I've had a decent number of cantis over 
> the years: Dia-Comp 960s, cheapy Tektros, IRD Cafams. The CX-70s are far and 
> away the squealiest I've ever owned. Plus, as Patrick sagely states, you need 
> at the very least 6 hands to adjust them. Double plus, I have to deflate my 
> Compass 44mms every time I take the wheel off. Now, I must also admit that I 
> could probably win a Nationwide competition on Worst Canti Adjuster.
> 
> I may see if I can use them to convert my Voyageur to 700c from 27 inches, 
> but if that doesn't work, I'll send them off to anyone who wants 'em for say 
> 25 bucks.
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 7:32:13 PM UTC-5, John Bokman wrote:
> John  I'm curious about your squealing CX-70 brakes. I use them on my Sam and 
> have found them to be quiet, and the best functioning cantilevers I've ever 
> used. Could it be your brake pads, or toe in perhaps? Having said this, I use 
> Paul center pulls on another bike, and they are also fantastic. 
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, January 6, 2018 at 3:56:15 PM UTC-8, John G. wrote:-
> Thanks, all! Mark, I’ll be using your short term solution while the Waterford 
> touch-up is en route. 
> 
> It’s such a relief to have the Atlantis back. Some time apart just reinforced 
> how much I love that bike, squealing lousy cx-70 cantis and all.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cumil the Peeper sold me a Canti-Sam frameset

[john Bokman]

Rod, I got the first run (2009) Sam in 60cm. I wish I had gotten a 56 in 
retrospect. Finally I got a 58 (new run) and it’s perfect. I think it equates 
to the first run 56cm.
> Bob,
> 
> Score! Many thanks!
> 
> rod
> 
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 6:27:20 PM UTC-5, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
> Rod,
> 
> I am assuming this one is valid: 
>  
> https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometry 
> 
> 
> I think the one you were seeing is for the earlier (earliest?) versions.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 5:18:34 PM UTC-6, Rod Holland wrote:
> The only Sam Hillborne geometry chart I could find 
> 
>  didn't include a row for 58cm; I assume that they weren't made in that 
> production run. An updated geometry chart would be handy. In the meantime, I 
> assume it's reasonable to assume that the rear spacing is still 135mm, and 
> the TT will likely measure somewhere around 60cm. Other build-related 
> questions may suggest themselves shortly. Interpolating between 56cm and 60cm 
> geometry data to estimate 58cm geometry seems like a safe bet...
> 
> rod
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cumil the Peeper sold me a Canti-Sam frameset

[john Bokman]

In my case, i was “in between” sizes in 2009. My choices were 56cm and 60cm for 
my 89cm pbh. I chose the 60cm based on the employee’s suggestion. I was on the 
small end of the 60cm range. That is to say, my 89cm pub was among the shortest 
that would fit the 60cm frame. But I’d always read Grant saying: “Go bigger, 
bigger is better.” So between the Riv employee and Grant in my ears, that’s 
what I did. But I did not really understand the Riv “expanded frame” idea. What 
it meant for me was that the effective top tube was too long (61cm) even with a 
short, 7cm stem. (My legs are long and my torso is on the short side.) Yes, I 
rode the bike, and rode it successfully, for 7 years. But it was never the bike 
I wanted it to be.
So I took off the parts, and got a 58cm frame.

I think i would have loved the 56cm frame. I’m glad they now offer the new 58. 
I’m smack in the middle of the 58cm range, considering pbh, and I find it 
perfect. 

Concerning changes with the frameset: the 2009 bike, at 60cm, felt lighter to 
the hand (picking it up off the ground) than my 2017 58cm frame. Both my 
mechanic and I noticed the difference. Brian told me he thought they had 
“beefed up” the seat tube a bit. Regardless of weight,, once I’m riding, it’s 
just fantastic. I would never accuse Sam of being especially quick or nimble, 
but it’s just such a smooth, solid, confidence-inspiring ride that it always 
brings me joy. 
> On Jan 9, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Christopher Murray  
> wrote
> 
> It does seem the Sam has changed more than other bikes. When the Sam was 
> conceived the idea was having few sizes that would fit more people. This was 
> new in the Rivendell line up. It seems like most of what has changed is top 
> tube and seat tube lengths. I’d guess this is just an evolution of the 
> expanded geometry idea— finding the best sizes and the corresponding top tube 
> lengths. I think the history of the Sam and its changes would make a great 
> Reader article. 
> 
> Reading everything that has been written about the Sam over the years I get 
> the sense that it has been a smashing success. It has grown to be Riv’s go to 
> bike. Grant’s most recent post says “always the bike we rule out before going 
> on to something else.”
> 
> An awesome bike. Congrats to the lucky recent purchasers. I’m jealous. 
> 
> Cheers!
> Chris
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cumil the Peeper sold me a Canti-Sam frameset

[john Bokman]

Ah, then in that case, glad I waited for the 58!
Rides like a dream. Rolling gleefully.
> On Jan 10, 2018, at 8:20 AM, Dave Small  wrote:
> 
> My story is the same:  60cm (which I bought) is a bit too big, the 56cm 
> (which I test rode and didn't buy) was a bit too small, and the later 58cm 
> version is just right.  I don't think the current 58cm equals the first-run 
> 56cm, either from my experience with them or the PBH recommendations--it's in 
> between.  
> 
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 9:58:09 PM UTC-5, John Bokman wrote:
> Rod, I got the first run (2009) Sam in 60cm. I wish I had gotten a 56 in 
> retrospect. Finally I got a 58 (new run) and it’s perfect. I think it equates 
> to the first run 56cm.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cumil the Peeper sold me a Canti-Sam frameset

[john Bokman]

I trust in Grant, but my favorite Rivendell bikes, at least on paper, are the 
most svelte. I hope the Sam doesn’t get too beefed out. (Rather, I hope if he 
designs a beefed-out Sam, it’s a 26” wheeled Sam! I’d be all over that one.)
> On Jan 12, 2018, at 5:14 PM, Adam Kilgas  wrote:
> 
> On Friday, January 12, 2018 at 12:54:16 PM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:
>> 
>> PS: I was surprised at a recent blug or blahg post that said they beefed up 
>> Sam’s fork.  That was where I noticed a big difference.
> 
> 
> I was surprised to read that as well; kinda curious how Sam's fork now 
> compares to most Taiwan-made forks...is it still lighter..?  Or was it ever?
> 
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[RBW] Re: Informal poll: Sam Hillborne sizing, 6' tall about an 85PBH?

[John Bokman]

I would go smaller if running drops. I was in between sizes in 2009, got 
the larger frame (60cm) and wished I'd gotten the smaller (56) because the 
top tube was so long. Even with a short 7 cm stem, it was too long for me, 
although standover was adequate. 7 years later, I got a smaller Sam (58cm) 
and it's perfect. Mind you, this is for a rider who rides with drop bars 
below saddle level. i still prefer the short stem. My legs are long 
relative to my torso.

On Saturday, February 17, 2018 at 7:36:11 PM UTC-8, Scott McLain wrote:
>
> I similar measurements to you 5-11, 87cm inseam.  I ride a size 58 LHT and 
> a size 59 Riv AHH.  I would go with the smaller sam if I intended to run 
> drop bars.  It’s reach is very similar to the 58 LHT and 59 AHH. 
>
> If you are going upright bars, you can go either way.  A bosco bar will 
> eat up lots of top tube.  There was a great pic on this list of a 60 chev 
> with a slammed boscomoose! Not sure I would do that with a Sam but just 
> sayin you could. 
>
> I would trust the Riv guys if I was buying new. 
>
> What color, now that is a really hard question! 
>
> Good Luck! 
>
> Scott 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Riding within me means ... more fixed gear contemplations

[John Bokman]

Glad you found some knicks.
I was aiming to order some, but was concerned they might be too busy, what 
with the internal drawcord, cargo pockets I won't use and such. Do you find 
them easy enough to get on with now that you've had some time to access? 
And, do they stay put and not shift around too much?
I've got Compass knicks and they're good, but I don't care for the zippered 
pockets (openings are too small and I don't have large hands). I was hoping 
to get some heavier weight knicks, and have been on the lookout, so thought 
I'd ask.

On Monday, February 19, 2018 at 10:02:43 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Ride sounds great, Patrick! Holler when ready. 
>
> The Reign knickers did surprisingly well in the 14˚F in frozen, windy fog 
> to 35˚ and sunny in Woodland Park, back down through snow, fog, and wind in 
> the 20’s grocery run this morning. No additional under-layer save for the 
> added possum wool sock for me front bits (AKA a three sock ride).   
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/as-seen-on-todays-grocery-run 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Riding within me means ... more fixed gear contemplations

[john Bokman]

Other than the small, zippered (not necessary and annoying) pockets, I’m happy 
enough with the Compass. True enough I don’t need both a snap at the waist and 
a buckle, but neither really bothers me. But the fabric is great, really light, 
with some stretch, quick drying, and the cut is generous for me (I’m thin). I 
don’t use the  shock cord at the leg opening, but it’s there, and unobtrusive, 
if one wants to cinch the fabric at the shin. All in all, good knicks. They’re 
pricey, and may not last too long (i’ve worn them for a year now),  but I’d 
have to say the function is good. I think you may well be a fan. One thing I 
wish manufacturers would eliminate in pants/knicks/shorts, is rear pockets. 
Compass has done so, BTW. Rear pockets are unnecessary, and create seams to sit 
on and chafe. No need for rear pockets in cycling bottoms! Aren’t the thigh 
pockets and cargo pockets enough?
> On Feb 20, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
> 
> John, the drawstring can be ignored or cut off, but it is sewn into the back, 
> so it can’t be removed. I wear a 1.25” belt with them that holds my knife in 
> the small of my back, so they stay put just fine. Grin. I had doubts about 
> the cargo pockets as well. They are a bit annoying if my hand brushes pas


> t them, but they hold my Swiss Army Classic wee knife and rosary ring 
> perfectly in a subpocket. Untill I get the Compass, I can’t compare the 
> weight of them, but the Reign knickers are not heavy by any means, but they 
> do block wind well.
> 
> Hmmm. My hands are bigger, so I’ll see how I get along with that in the 
> Compass.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> 
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[RBW] MKS Grip King Monarch Pedals

[John Bokman]

Curious if anyone has the newer of the Grip Kings: the "Monarch". I've been 
riding VP Vice for a few years after weaning myself off Speedplay Frogs, 
and am rather annoyed at chewing up my shoes from the sharp pins. Also 
don't feel I need the width of the VPs. Always looking for ways to get Riv 
some money, I thought I might try these. However, I'm also curious about 
the MKS Allways  pedalsI'd prefer a low stack height, so VPs look to be 
the winner in that category

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[RBW] Re: MKS Grip King Monarch Pedals

[John Bokman]

Thanks for the reply.
Do you notice a big diff with stack height between the Monarch and VP? I 
can't find info on the MKS site or elsewhere regarding height of the pedal.

On Saturday, November 23, 2019 at 4:42:30 PM UTC-8, The Snag wrote:
>
> I have the Monarch, the VPs, and the older style grip king. Out of the 3 I 
> like the Monarch the best, they have a nice platform that my feet feet 
> locked in on. If you're worried about tearing up your shoes you could take 
> out the pins and I think they'd still be very supportive. If you're curious 
> about them I'd say go for it, I don't think you'll be disappointed. 
>

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[RBW] Favorite All-around Drive train?

[John Bokman]

Curious: What's been your favorite all-round drive train on your riv(s)?

I was a big fan of the Sugino 46-36-26 tripple, but wanted a narrower 
Q-factor, and never used the granny ring. I now use a 44/30 x 11/32 which 
is nice in some ways, but I don't get the super smooth shifting I got from 
the original (on my 2009 Sam). In fact, i've never gotten better shifting 
than the original Sam setup.

I like the idea of Riv's double, but it's a wider Q than I want, and with 
the big ring at just 38 teeth, I deem the top end to be a bit lacking for 
the type of riding I do.

I've thought of using their Silver 44/34/24, but again, it's a wider Q than 
I want, and I would hardly ever use the granny.

I've got indexing on another bike (Shimano 105, 11x28), and it shifts 
flawlessly, with a narrow Q from the Velo Orange 46/30 cranks. I'm not 
interested in going indexing on the Riv, just a data point.


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Re: [RBW] Favorite All-around Drive train?

[john Bokman]

Joe, I have never tried Silver cranks. I think I have a 113mm bottom bracket if 
I recall correctly (2009 Sam set up for Sugino triple).

> On Nov 24, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> Have you ever ridden a bike with Silvers? I've owned two and my feet missed 
> the pedals 50% of the time on a 110mm BB. They're narrow! 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: MKS Grip King Monarch Pedals

[john Bokman]

Thanks for the stats.  They look pretty nice. May have to try some. Like 
everything Riv sells, I’m sure they will last, so even if I don’t take to them, 
I can throw them on my wife or kid’s bikes and be set for years.

> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:34 PM, The Snag  wrote:
> 
> I don't notice a huge difference but I also use the two bikes differently, 
> the MKS are on a MTB rig so cornering is not as noticeable. I measure the 
> main platform of the Monarch at 17mm, more like 22mm with the bumps but 
> that's not going to affect how tight a turn you can make. VP's website calls 
> theirs 16mm, but they taper a bit towards the edge. For reference, the 
> original MKS grip king's platform is 22mm, they seem noticeably thicker than 
> the Monarch. 
> 
> Again, out of the three I think that the Monarch is the superior pedal. 
> Width, thickness, length, they just feel right. 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Favorite All-around Drive train?

[john Bokman]

Paul, it’s an 8-speed cassette. Sram.

> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:18 PM, PaulS  wrote:
> 
> Is the 11-32 a 9-Sp cassette? Try an 11-Sp. I find the spacing just fine. Of 
> course, I never really had much complaints about wide range 9-sp either. 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Favorite All-around Drive train?

[john Bokman]

Thanks for all the ideas.
I have considered a white industries before. 
I have considered a Rene here, also.
Don’t think I’m willing to spend so much, however, because I imagine it would 
not only be the cranks, but the bottom bracket as well, no? 
I think a 42 large ring and something like 26 small ring would be ideal.
Main thing is, I like to be able to use the big ring for most of my riding (and 
be able to access the 32 cog with it without cross-chaining). I drop down to 
the small ring only for the steep climbs.

As it is now, I can’t get into my 44x32 without cross-chaining. I’m using 
Grant’s Shimano Altus derailed, BTW.

> On Nov 25, 2019, at 2:16 AM, Garth  wrote:
> 
> 
> What you're looking for then would be a wide compact double which are 
> designed for road bikes with their straight-er arms mid 140's q., One with a 
> 94 bcd like the IRD wide compact crank would suit you. It comes with rings 
> however, so you'll have to get another large ring. 
> A 110 road double also can work with a 34 small ring and a 34 large cog. The 
> low gear is about 2 gear inches higher than what you have.  Sugino 901D 
> Mighty double 110 crank comes to mind. It comes with our without rings, black 
> or silver. Yes, that would be a 34/38 crank as you said you wanted a 38 large 
> ring. Having closely spaced rings works better than it sounds. 
> 
> I've seen both of these here for informational purposes :  
> https://www.bikehighway.com/cranksets.html#product_list_limit=90 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: MKS Grip King Monarch Pedals

[john Bokman]

Thanks for the thoughts.
I had thought of trying the Always pedals. They are significantly smaller than 
my VP Vice, but honestly, I don’t seem to need a super wide platform for my 
foot. I have size 10, not wide feet. More important than size of the pedal, I 
think, is that it match my foot.

> On Nov 24, 2019, at 7:43 PM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> And now for something completely different ... at least re the pedal 
> question. My priority is the bearings and comfort underfoot at hight 
> pressure. I'm hard on bearings. Rocks, roots, and stupid wet, muddy, snowy, 
> freezing, sludgy riding will do that. VPs lasted me a matter of months and 
> generally didn't repair well for me. MKS cone and bearing pedals last me a 
> year and can be greased well for another year. But MKS cartridge pedals have 
> lasted beautifully so far, beyond a year and counting, so they are my 
> preference. My experience has been stack height is not a material factor. I 
> personally do not like the feel of the pedal shape of the Grip Kings 
> underfoot (my forefoot is my widest part of my foot, the narrowest part of 
> the pedal, so the GK's have great fore/aft stability, minimal lateral 
> stability for me). MKS All Ways pedals are a delight, as are their touring 
> pedals. If riding in the snow, touring pedals win, as pressure on the pedal 
> increases grip and discards snow, whereas most pedals it compresses the snow 
> into ice and renders them unridable until chipped off ... not fun at temps 
> near zero. Note: I ride fixed gear, no retention, on both All Ways and 
> Touring pedals, and my Gus has some stupid amount of gears and I ride touring 
> pedals for it. They just handle the bashing and crashing and freezing and 
> thawing and muddy mucky wet wonderfully.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
> 
> On Saturday, November 23, 2019 at 2:49:00 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
> Curious if anyone has the newer of the Grip Kings: the "Monarch". I've been 
> riding VP Vice for a few years after weaning myself off Speedplay Frogs, and 
> am rather annoyed at chewing up my shoes from the sharp pins. Also don't feel 
> I need the width of the VPs. Always looking for ways to get Riv some money, I 
> thought I might try these. However, I'm also curious about the MKS Allways  
> pedalsI'd prefer a low stack height, so VPs look to be the winner in that 
> category
> 
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[RBW] Re: Favorite All-around Drive train?

[John Bokman]

Lotsa good options and thoughts here. I must admit I'm leaning toward the 
Herse setup, damn the cost. If I'm going to pay to go custom, I may as well 
spend my wad. 
107 BB or 110? (Thanks for that data point William D. R.)

One concern is that it seems to me that Grant's bikes do really well with 
his spec'd components. Not so sure if they do as well without. Specifically 
I'm speaking of the more "versatile" bikes, like my Sam HIll. Will the 
narrow tread and shorter bottom bracket play well with this bike?


On Tuesday, November 26, 2019 at 10:55:29 PM UTC-8, Nikos Karanikas wrote:
>
> My favorite is this:
> https://www.velovitality.co.uk/collections/transmission/products/sunxcd-ta-chainset.
>  
> I chose the 40-26 with a 12-29 or 12-32 miche cassette, both with a short 
> cage rear derailleur. Since i use 11 speed trigger shifters with my Bosco 
> setup, my LBS used around 1,5mm narrower chainring spacers to make it work 
> properly.
>
>
> Τη Δευτέρα, 25 Νοεμβρίου 2019 - 2:10:38 π.μ. UTC+2, ο χρήστης John Bokman 
> έγραψε:
>>
>> Curious: What's been your favorite all-round drive train on your riv(s)?
>>
>> I was a big fan of the Sugino 46-36-26 tripple, but wanted a narrower 
>> Q-factor, and never used the granny ring. I now use a 44/30 x 11/32 which 
>> is nice in some ways, but I don't get the super smooth shifting I got from 
>> the original (on my 2009 Sam). In fact, i've never gotten better shifting 
>> than the original Sam setup.
>>
>> I like the idea of Riv's double, but it's a wider Q than I want, and with 
>> the big ring at just 38 teeth, I deem the top end to be a bit lacking for 
>> the type of riding I do.
>>
>> I've thought of using their Silver 44/34/24, but again, it's a wider Q 
>> than I want, and I would hardly ever use the granny.
>>
>> I've got indexing on another bike (Shimano 105, 11x28), and it shifts 
>> flawlessly, with a narrow Q from the Velo Orange 46/30 cranks. I'm not 
>> interested in going indexing on the Riv, just a data point.
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Silver2 shifters have arrived!

[John Bokman]

How do these differ from the original silver bar-end shifters on my 2009 
Sam?

On Thursday, November 28, 2019 at 10:02:12 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> Wow they are gorgeous! I can’t wait to get ‘em on a bike. The original 
> Silver is great but may be slightly long for my taste as bar ends. These 
> will be perfect!
>
> Toshi
>
> On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 7:45 PM dougP > 
> wrote:
>
>> The long awaited Silver 2 shifters have arrived, just in time for the 
>> holidays:  
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/shifting/products/kjalgjoihjga44451
>>
>> The mounts for upright bars are delayed a bit but the shifters also work 
>> as bar ends & down tubes.  Treat yourself to something nice; maybe buy a 
>> spare pair "just in case".  Shifters sold individually so you can do all 
>> sorts of crazy things.  See the website for which-goes-where.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Silver2 shifters have arrived!

[john Bokman]

Thanks. Makes sense now. I’ll try some.

> On Nov 29, 2019, at 2:28 AM, Garth  wrote:
> 
> 
>   Yes, the shape is now copied after the 1980's Suntour Thumbshifters. The 
> innards, while the same as the original Silver levers, is based on the 
> Suntour Sprint road levers, which uses a smaller diameter ratchet design 
> inside than the original mountain Suntour Thumbshifters.  Having both 
> versions, the mountain lever seems to hold the gear better than the road.  As 
> far as I know every copy of Suntour ratcheting levers has been of the road 
> version innards, no one has copied the mountain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, November 28, 2019 at 5:48:15 PM UTC-5, John Bokman wrote:
> How do these differ from the original silver bar-end shifters on my 2009 Sam?
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[John Bokman]

Gorgeous XO. I rode the heck out of my 1994 X0-3. Now my daughter is riding 
it. Great bikes! Should not be hard to sell.

On Saturday, December 21, 2019 at 5:00:05 PM UTC-8, Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> Damn it Joe, I blame you for the wallet damage ;) 
>   
> I just ordered a Clem H 45 frameset in green. 
>
> Tangentially related: Here is a photo of my XO-1 from a short ride earlier 
> today, the bike that I'll need to sell to balance the budget. It's a 
> beautiful and historically significant bike, but it doesn't suit most of my 
> riding. 
>
> On Saturday, 21 December 2019 12:24:06 UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Hey, you should grab the deal they're doing on 45 H models right now! 
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Shimano CX 70 brake

[John Bokman]

Had two, now only one. Looking for a replacement. The Rear seized for some 
reason and I had to replace it. These have been the best cantis I've ever 
used, and I'd like to find one out there, if possible.

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[RBW] Re: In your opinion, what's missing from the Riv lineup?

[John Bokman]

A canti Sam Hill with 26" rubber. I find my 700C about perfect, but for one 
thing: I experience toe clip overlap in constant stop and start urban 
riding (I use fenders). I would also appreciate the quickness of getting 
going with 26" wheels. I realize 650B would get me the same lack of 
overlap, but I always liked my 26" wheeled bikes and would like to ride 
another one.

On Thursday, February 13, 2020 at 10:40:23 AM UTC-8, Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> Pardon the idle-mind pondering, I am home sick today and becoming bored, 
> which has me daydreaming about a collaboration I've been trying to ignite 
> between Ocean Air Cycles and Rivendell to bring back the Rambler as a MIT, 
> tig-welded all-rounder that could hit that $900 - $1050 range price point 
> based on other TIG Riv's.  
>
> To me, there is a big hole in the lineup where a TIG frameset in the Homer 
> / Hillborne range of sportiness belongs; something much like the OAC 
> Rambler was (which had long stays for a non-Riv, too). I also believe this 
> would be a strong seller, competing more directly with Crust, Surly, etc. 
> 650B / 700c depending on size, clearance for 48's, mid-weight tubing, works 
> with drops or swept bars. 
>
> I imagine this kind of bike, but with modern Riv twists, is coming up soon 
> - hopefully!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: In your opinion, what's missing from the Riv lineup?

[john Bokman]

Yeah, that’s what I’m thinking. Remember when Riv was one of the few (only?) to 
offer a bike spec’d with 650B? They were committed to getting some tires out 
there, and though we had to wait a while, the industry followed their lead. If 
Riv wee to design another great 26” wheeled all-rounder, perhaps it would spark 
interest in great 26” tires. I for one don’t think 26” is dead just yet. What 
comes around….

> On Feb 18, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> 
> If Grant were to put a 26" wheeled All Rounder on the market again, I wonder 
> if that might not help initiative a return to market of decent 26" wheel 
> tires other than knobbies and heavy "city" tires? Rivendell designs have 
> driven trends before ...
> 
> There was a thread on the Boblist which mentioned a surprising number of 
> decent 559 tires in the 32 to 48 mm range.
> 
> Patrick " helplessly hoping " Moore, who has an investment in 26" road wheels.
> 
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 7:36 AM Julian Westerhout  > wrote:
> I'd agree with the idea that a Nobilette All-Rounder would be fine, but in 
> 650b --- 26" is starting to fade on all but the low end. It seems good tires, 
> etc. more likely to be found in 650b, or, as the Kool Kids say, 27.5".
> 
> 
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
> 
> On Tuesday, February 18, 2020 at 3:02:31 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
> A new Nobilette All Rounder with 26" wheels would be cool.
> 
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> .
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> 
> -- 
> 
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: In your opinion, what's missing from the Riv lineup?

[john Bokman]

I think overlap is “not a big deal” if I’m out on a sport ride, not hauling 
baggage, not constantly stopping and starting in traffic. But when I’m on an 
urban commute or grocery haul, it becomes, not necessarily “a problem” but a 
hassle I’d rather not have. Not a deal breaker, certainly, just something I’d 
rather avoid. 26” wheels offer lots of advantages for such riding.

> On Feb 18, 2020, at 10:30 AM, Chris L  wrote:
> 
> I follow R&E in Seattle almost as close as I follow RBW and tend to agree 
> with their philosophy that there is no reason for a bike to have toe overlap. 
>  They tend to design around wheel sizes that eliminate toe overlap and they 
> also go the "more fork rake/less head angle" route to eliminate toe overlap.  
> They developed their own aluminum fork with 55mm of rake (vs the common 45mm 
> fork) but they also build custom forks, as needed.
> 
> I think it's cool that Grant redesigned my size Atlantis with 700c wheels and 
> a long top tube with more fork rake and less head angle.  I bet that has tons 
> of toe clearance, even with the fattest tires that will fit.  
> 
> I'm fortunate that I ride flat bars exclusively and my proportions require a 
> bike with a longer top tube so I can run huge tires on my Hunqapillar (much 
> more conservative in front-end dimensions than the new Atlantis) with no toe 
> overlap.   My grail bike is pretty much the old 26" 56cm Atlantis but I know 
> from experience that a 57cm ETT just won't work for me.
> 
>  
> 
> On Tuesday, February 18, 2020 at 11:55:41 AM UTC-6, Jason Fuller wrote:
> Fair enough Patrick, I have had bikes with varying amounts and I should have 
> been clearer that I think some toe overlap is OK for me (ie my 51 Sam has 
> some when I run fenders) and I've also never had an accident due to it (also 
> rode fixed a good while on a bike with a fair bit of overlap) but I do find 
> it an annoyance that I'd really prefer to remove from my riding experience - 
> particularly on a bike I load up
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[john Bokman]

Nice!

Excuse my ignorance, but how does one attach the handlebar bag? Is it a 
klickfix or some such?
(I really liked the Nitto handlebar bag rack that Riv sold to go with the 
handlebar bag by Carradice, and later, by Baggins, then sackville, but one 
thing I did not like is that it had no easy, quick way to get the bag off the 
rack.)

> On May 19, 2019, at 8:50 AM, William R.  wrote:
> 
> Here's my 57 Roadini. Recently updated the shifters to Dura-ace 9-speed 
> barends. Used to be Simplex Retro's on the down tube. I'm getting used to 
> these and like them a lot, but I keep catching myself reaching for the down 
> tube! My family gave me the Swift bag well over a year ago, but I haven't had 
> reason to use it much until lately. It is Swifts Paloma bag which for me is 
> just the right size to carry a rain jacket, up to two extra water bottles, 
> food, phone + keys without getting too heavy and effecting steering. XS 
> Sackville in back has tools, patches and spare tubes. It's a good set up 
> ready for some long summer rides!
> 
> Bill in Westchester, NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: WTB English Rain coat

[John Bokman]

I can vouch for Hilltrek quality through and through. After learning about 
them right here, and through recommendations from Deacon and others, I 
finally bit the bullet last year and ordered my first - a 2x Ventile 
Greenspot jacket. The quality is exceptional (fabric, sewing, etc.) but I 
should have sized up, as recommended here. The sleeves are a tad short when 
I'm stretched out on the bike. Also, I find the "handwarmer" pockets could 
be improved by angling them to be more ergonomic. 

True, the jacket is heavier than some, but for winter riding, that's a good 
thing, in my opinion. Excellent details, high collar, great hood, etc.

Moral of the story: although I sized "correctly", when corresponding with 
them i should have mentioned my riding position.



On Monday, September 30, 2019 at 8:31:04 AM UTC-7, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear Matthew, 
>
> I will enthusiastically second Hilltrek, either their greenspot jacket 
> (size up if you have long arms) or their "braemar hybrid smock", which is a 
> half-zip hooded jacket with a double-ventile upper half. 
>
> I have had four Hilltrek jackets. I am too sweaty/run too hot for Analogy 
> pump liners (I have one, and it sees little use as a result). 
>
> The double-layer greenspot was a fantastic jacket, though the pocketing 
> was not ideal for winter use, and it is cut a bit trimly for off-bike use. 
> Sizing up fixed the problem, and gave me an opportunity to get my little 
> brother a nice jacket (he is both younger and smaller, and the medium fit 
> him well). I managed to let mine get stolen. Oddly, my brother lost his 
> too, leaving it behind in a cafe 
>
>  I have a single-layer Braemar windshirt that does almost exactly what I 
> want—breathes well, wide comfort range, sheds short, intense thunderstorms, 
> lots of pockets.. About four times a year I get caught in an extended 
> steady rain and the single-layer shoulders wet out. Hence the "hybrid" 
> recommendation. 
>
> They are brutally expensive, and worth it. Sewn in Scotland. 
>
> Best Regards, 
>
> Will 
> William M deRosset 
> Fort Collins CO USA

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[RBW] Re: Riding and then mountaineering

[John Bokman]

Thanks so much Takashi! Very inspiring. I have been wanting to visit Japan 
for years! Hope I can make it happen in the next 5.

On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 8:08:16 AM UTC-7, Rob Kristoff wrote:
>
> Takashi,
> Thanks for sharing. Wonderful pics.
>
> Rob
>

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[RBW] WTB (or trade) MKS Touring pedals

[John Bokman]

Hi all. 

I'm interested in buying a set of MKS Touring pedals (maybe they used to be 
called Sylvan if memory serves?) that Riv used to sell. 
Or I'd gladly trade for a pair of well-used but perfectly functional MKS 
Sneaker pedals.

Thanks.
John

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB (or trade) MKS Touring pedals

[john Bokman]

Jim, thanks of the  offer. I’m thinking about using some power grips with the 
MKS pedals, but first I’m trying out the VP Vice pedals I’ve got. So far I’m on 
the fence about the VPs. I like the grip but seem to fidgit on the pedals to 
get in the sweet spot. Plus I’m not so keen on the nasty pedal strike on shin 
that can occur. So I was thinking about trying some power grips on my commuter 
instead. 

As I said, I’m still trying to adjust to the VPs (I’m a clipless guy). If I 
want to try the power grips after all is said and done I’ll give you a shout. 

Thanks for your offer!
J.
> On Aug 7, 2016, at 5:34 AM, jim <4421...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have a like new pair if you're still looking.
> 
> Jim (Madison, WI)
> 
> On Friday, August 5, 2016 at 1:13:28 PM UTC-5, John Bokman wrote:
> Hi all. 
> 
> I'm interested in buying a set of MKS Touring pedals (maybe they used to be 
> called Sylvan if memory serves?) that Riv used to sell. 
> Or I'd gladly trade for a pair of well-used but perfectly functional MKS 
> Sneaker pedals.
> 
> Thanks.
> John
> 
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[RBW] Re: Clipless or Clips?

[John Bokman]

But what of Power Grips? Any of you who like clips&straps tried 'em? 

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 10:11:32 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Some time ago I swapped the Shimano M324 pedals on the Hon Solo for MKS 
> GR9s, complete with Christophes, toe strap buckle pads, and strap buttons. 
> The GR9 is a cheap pedal, not nearly as nice as the MKS Urban, which I also 
> tried briefly, but the flip tab on the -9 is simply the best, IMO. 
>
> At any rate, the ease of entry and the flexibility with regard to footwear 
> are benefits that once again loom large on my mental horizon, and I'm 
> thinking of switching at least one of the Rivendells back to clips and 
> straps. As an additional motive, I just found a very good garage-shop 
> cobbler, and I have a pair of very nice, old leather soled Rivats that need 
> re-soling.
>
> And I know from experience that slipping the Rivats into semi-tight straps 
> on MKS RX-1 pedals is a hellofalot easier than getting into KEOS.
>
> Presently the '99 has lightweight double sided Expedos, and the '03 has 
> some upper-middle-class Shimano double sided mtb pedals from 10 or 15 years 
> ago; both very good.
>
> I'm thinking out loud: should I or should I not switch?
>
> More practically: how many of y'all use clips and straps? Clips and straps 
> and slotted cleats?
>
> Probably I should just ride the bikes and shut up. But I *do* like clips 
> and straps, and the decennially recurring question is now up for answer.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Toyo Atlantis Shimmy ???

[John Bokman]

I had frustrations with shimmy at low to moderate speed (10-15 MPH) while 
sitting upright cruising along a flat road on my Sam. Couldn't figure it 
out. Had the LBS check it out: wheels, frame alignment, etc. They found 
nothing. Tightened the headset to offer more friction and that didn't help. 
What did help was sliding my saddle just a fraction forward toward the 
bottom bracket. Just a smidge. I had the saddle all the way back on the 
rails (a Berthoud saddle, don't know how long the rails are offhand). Just 
 a nudge forward did the trick.



On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:34:23 PM UTC-7, Tony McG wrote:
>
> This bike has descended hills on SE Minnesota and NE Iowa gravel roads at 
> over 40 mph with no problems, but I haven't had a chance to try those hills 
> since the spacer was put in last Winter. It is the low speed without hands 
> wobble that Bill describes that is bothering me. Since the needle bearing 
> headset appears to be more of a band aide than a cure, I am going to hold 
> off throwing parts at the bike until I try changing tire pressures or even 
> swap out the Cazaderos for  a set of Schwalbe Dureme that I have laying 
> around. Thanks again everyone!
>

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[RBW] Re: SOMA xpress tires

[John Bokman]

I have used the New Xpress in 700x37mm. I like these tires for commuting, 
and I'd gladly use them on tour. They have what they call hypertex casing 
which I believe is a armored belt that's pretty light. They are very 
similar to the Pasella TG I used to use. I believe one problem with the 
tread design is that they tend to pick up glass. However, after writing 
this, I've only had one flat in 1000k, and that was due to higher pressure 
in the tires than I'd usually run (70psi was pumped in by a mechanic after 
he'd trued a wheel for me; I'd usually run 50psi). To my tastes ( I use 
Compass Barlow Pass EL on my "fast" bike), this is a good all-around tire. 
Decent road feel, decent flat prevention, not super light but not heavy 
either. Good value for money in my opinion if using for commuter or touring 
tire.


On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 8:10:46 AM UTC-7, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
> Anyone try these yet?  If so, what are your thoughts?  I love the feel of 
> Compass and Panaracer tires and am always on the look out for similar type 
> tires to try.  I'd be getting the 650b if I buy them.  A bit narrower at 38 
> then I normally shoot for but I have a lot of bikes that have different 
> tire tolerances, so they would be useable at that width.
>

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[RBW] Re: Helmets... what do you like?

[John Bokman]

I have a Bell Citi helmet in loud yellow with a visor. I like the visor 
because I use it to attach my "Take a Look" mirror, which I've really come 
to depend on after getting used to it. (Yes, it took me quite a while to 
get used to a rear view mirror sticking off the end of my helmet.)

However, a problem with the helmet, at least for my head: when riding at 
speed (say down a long descent), the back of my head, near the ears, begins 
to hurt. I think this is caused by wind getting under the visor and thus 
shifting the helmet ever so slightly on my head, but I can't be sure. Which 
makes me want to take the visor off. But then I loose my mirror. (I have 
tried the mirror on glasses and don't like it nearly as much as helmet 
mounted.)

Does anyone else have this problem with their helmet?

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 9:06:41 PM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I've been using a helmet that the designers at Specialized gave me several 
> years ago.  It's a nice helmet but it's getting pretty grungy and probably 
> needs to be replaced.  Having only spent about $50 or $60 on helmets in the 
> past 20 years, I figured it's time to pony up for a new helmet.  As I 
> started to search I was amazed at (1) the range of helmets I'd never seen; 
> (2) some of the new innovations that are coming out and; (3) some of the 
> prices that helmets are hitting these days.  I may just try to ping on 
> friends in the industry for another freebie but I use it so often, I may 
> actually get picky and open the wallet for this one. I'm not looking to 
> start a pro-helmet/anti-helmet debate, just looking for insights from those 
> who use 'em.  What are people liking out there and why?  I'd love to hear 
> everyone's latest thoughts on helmets.
>
>  
>
> BTW... I did go down the "folding helmet rabbit hole" when I was 
> searching.  Some crazy new things coming out.  
>
>
> http://www.treehugger.com/bikes/dash-and-stash-stash-folding-bike-helmet.html
>
> http://www.morpherhelmet.com/
>
>
> https://store.moma.org/museum/moma/ProductDisplay_Fuga-Foldable-Helmet_10451_10001_227971_-1_26715_11506_221954?gclid=CIC3h9Szhs8CFY9bfgodLwoAkg
>
>
> http://www.backcountrygear.com/madillo.html?gclid=CPD56pq0hs8CFQtnfgodRS4JwA
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Overade-Foldable-Folding-Bicycle-Helmet/dp/B00TA4TF4E
>
> http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/pango-folding-helmet
>
>  
>
> ...and my wife found this one: http://www.ecohelmet.com/
>
>  
>
> John “Not wearing a paper helmet anytime soon”
>

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[John Bokman]

I switched several years ago from Brooks B-17 which I had ridden on for 
years on several bikes. i had issues with decomposition of B-17s over time 
to where they became uncomfortable - even with the "Select" version. Also, 
I found as I began to ride in a more forward leaning manner (lowered my 
bars for more comfort, contrary to what is often preached here), the B-17 
shape didn't work for me. 

So I switched to Berthoud and have been happy as a clam ever since. I've 
been riding the Aspin now for about 3 years. Better quality (thicker, 
stiffer leather; no hamered rivets to eventually dig into ones backside as 
the leather around the rivet wears; completely rebuildable saddle because 
the saddle is bolted to the rails, not hammered in. Just a better design, 
in my opinion.

Caveat: it took me 500 miles to break the saddle to where riding anything 
more than 20 miles was comfortable. But, after 3 years, the saddle is 
broken, but not broken. Just thicker, stiffer material that will last much 
longer, I am sure. Highly recommended.

John

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:42:55 PM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I've been a Rivendell fan for years having owned 4 different bikes. I used 
> B-17 saddles for years, but with wear, as the area under my sit bones would 
> settle, the hump in the saddle( running for-aft) would cause extreme 
> discomfort. I just had to give up on Brooks. I have been using a Secialized 
> Phenom for about a year, but it's not so great on longer rides like I 
> remember my Brooks in the early years of ownership. Has anyone with issues 
> similar to mine switched over to a Berthoud saddle and felt some 
> improvement?
>

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[RBW] WTB: Large Saddlebag

[John Bokman]

Greetings. My wife's bike got stolen yesterday. As a result, she lost her 
years old, but in excellent condition  Carradice Camper long flap saddlebag 
in the process.

Does anyone out there have a Carradice or newer Riv style large saddlebag 
they are interested in selling?

John


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[RBW] WTB: Grundens Rain Cape

[John Bokman]

Looking for a rain cape! 

Thanks.

John

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[RBW] Re: on bike bag theft

[John Bokman]

I had a seat post, saddle, and Carradice stolen in one fell swoop one night 
as it sat unattended outside of work in downtown Portland, Oregon. In over 
10 years in the same neighborhood, this happened just the once, but it was 
painful! It can definitely happen.

On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 12:56:18 PM UTC-8, drew wrote:
>
> i leave a carradice barley on one bike and a saddlesack medium on the 
> other. both are zip-tied and both have a small cable that runs through some 
> leather part of the bag, rack, and saddle rail. not theft proof by any 
> means, but so far it has been enough to deter thievery of the bag itself. i 
> have had weird random stuff taken from the bag that i didnt notice 
> immediately- patch kit, mini pump, wrench...oddly on 3 separate occasions. 
> i mean, why take a patch kit and not a pump, then a pump but not a patch 
> kit..
>
> anyway...i live in los angeles, have had 2 bikes stolen (though at the 
> time, i wasnt locking up in the best way and left them overnight), and am 
> now pretty conservative about location of locking and duration of time 
> locked up. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] On tire supple-itude

[John Bokman]

Of all the tires I've ridden that come to mind (Schwalbe 26x2.0 Big Apple; 
Pasella 700c Tour Guard and non-Tour guard in 32, 35, 37 mm; Soma New 
Express 700x37; Jack Brown Green 700x33.333 and Compass Barlow Pass EL 
700x38) they all have their purpose. Some are more "fun" than others. Some 
wear better, some have better grip on pavement, some are better 
off-pavementTo the question at hand: Would I notice the difference 
between a Jack Brown and a "Supple tire"? No, I would not. I think the Jack 
Brown Green is the best riding tire I've tried in 700c. It rolls as well as 
the Barlow and feels livelier. In fact I prefer the ride of my (albeit 
narrower) 700x33.333 Jack Browns vs. the 700x38 Barlow Els. But this is not 
to say there is no cost to this choice. The Jack Browns, in my experience, 
do not last very long, and puncture more easily than the other tires I've 
listed (can't compare to the Barlows on this score yet because I have not 
enough miles on them to know). Interesting to me, they're not as "supple" 
as the Barlows. Rest assured, the Jack Browns are supple enough to provide 
exceptional ride quality, if that's what's making them ride so well. In my 
mind, weight makes  big difference in the liveliness of the ride. Both the 
Jack Brown Greens (350 grams) and Barlow Pass Els (lighter still) are 
light. When I switch from Pasellas or Soma New Express to the Jacks or the 
Barlows, I notice an immediate improvement in liveliness. Depends what 
matters most to you. All are good tires for a particular purpose. I haven't 
yet found one tire to do it all - though I'm still looking.

On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 12:07:34 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Yes, good advice in a clearly delineated, either/or, binary, black and 
> white world. But the OP was asking about the confusing array of tires 
> available, and what exactly constitutes a supple tire. Trying all the 
> available tires out there is a bit daunting. While experimentation is 
> inevitable, the great thing about a list devoted to bike stuff is that you 
> can access lots of other experiences that would otherwise be unavailable.
>
> Other than tubulars vs. clinchers when I was racing, I never paid much 
> attention to tires. Just figured if you wanted good ones, buy the more 
> expensive ones. Which, to a certain extent, is still true. But I think 
> becoming more educated about the various qualities of bicycle tires is 
> kinda useful, and relatively interesting. It will be particularly 
> interesting to compare the stock Clem tires with a puffy, supple, 
> lightweight. I did hear that Panaracer Gravel Kings will soon be available 
> in a 48cm 650B that has a herringbone tread very similar to the Compass 
> tires. Anyone heard anything further about a release date on these? I 
> imagine Soma is cooking up an entry into the 650B 42+ field.
>
> On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 12:07:36 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> I think we've gotten to the point with this discussion that people should 
>> just choose a tire according to their preference.
>>
>> If a smooth, fast ride is a priority for you, ride supple tires.
>>
>> If longevity and flat resistance are a priority for you, don't ride 
>> supple tires.
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 5:27 PM, ian m  wrote:
>>
>>> Hopefully not beating a dying horse here, but I am confused by how this 
>>> topic is often discussed. With how BQ and Compass/Grand Bois talk about 
>>> their tires it seems as though it's a binary opposition, right? Supple 
>>> tires vs. non-supple tires, new tire technology vs. old tires, their tires 
>>> vs. the rest. But what is even being discussed when we talk about 
>>> suppleness? Am I confused in thinking that there has long been differing 
>>> levels of casing quality with TPI being a good indicator of suppleness (and 
>>> why doesn't Compass advertise the TPI on their tires)?
>>>
>>> It seems to me that it's more of a continuum of supple, from maybe the 
>>> steel belted kevlar enforced urban assault Schwalbe to the hand sewn from 
>>> the finest silk undies race only FMBs. In that continuum you have your 
>>> clincher and your tubular, your wire bead and folding bead, your 120TPI and 
>>> your puncture-proof belt. But where in the continuum are they?
>>>
>>> I'm not interested in performance and am a proud unracer. My only Riv 
>>> bike is a Clem and I love it. But I know and appreciate quality bicycle 
>>> components and, as they say, am too poor to buy cheap things. While the 
>>> rising interest in wide tires in the performance bicycling world will mean 
>>> more options for us balloon bikers, that also means more companies making 
>>> all sorts of unverifiable claims about their tires. I remember when I 
>>> switched from Schwalbe Delta Cruisers to Clement 120TPI USH tires on a 
>>> previous touring bike. I was not let down. But would I notice the same 
>>> change if I went from the light Jack Browns on my SS to Compass tires?  I 
>>> would like to upgrad

[RBW] Max-Width Schwalbe Marathon Mondial on Sam & Fenders

[John Bokman]

Greetings.

I've dug into all the back posts about the various widths and etc. but 
haven't found what i'm looking for, so please excuse the redundancy.

Here's my setup: 2009 Canti Sam Hillborne @ 60cm. I'm running 50mm Berthoud 
fenders. I've got Velocity Synergy 23mm rims.

Question: What is the largest Marathon Mondials I can fit given this setup? 
700x40? 700x45? Remember, I've got fenders, and I'm not taking them off.

I am under the impression Mondials are about 1.5 mm thinner than their 
stated size.

I'm itching to do some dirt/gravel road touring!

Thanks to all.

J.

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[RBW] Re: Max-Width Schwalbe Marathon Mondial on Sam & Fenders

[John Bokman]

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Since the Berthoud fenders have generous roundness and fit my 37mm Soma New 
Express tires easily, I believe I will try the Mondial in 40mm.

Once I do I will post. Thanks all (especially for the photographs)!
J.

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 7:25:42 AM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Here's a couple of pictures of my Sam with Mondials and fenders:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/129545862@N03/25100274155/in/dateposted-public/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/129545862@N03/24621117222/in/dateposted-public/
>
> John
>
> On Thursday, April 21, 2016 at 8:11:48 AM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>>
>> Greetings.
>>
>> I've dug into all the back posts about the various widths and etc. but 
>> haven't found what i'm looking for, so please excuse the redundancy.
>>
>> Here's my setup: 2009 Canti Sam Hillborne @ 60cm. I'm running 50mm 
>> Berthoud fenders. I've got Velocity Synergy 23mm rims.
>>
>> Question: What is the largest Marathon Mondials I can fit given this 
>> setup? 700x40? 700x45? Remember, I've got fenders, and I'm not taking them 
>> off.
>>
>> I am under the impression Mondials are about 1.5 mm thinner than their 
>> stated size.
>>
>> I'm itching to do some dirt/gravel road touring!
>>
>> Thanks to all.
>>
>> J.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: jack brown's

[John Bokman]

Mike, thanks for the response. I have ridden Pasella tour guard and  
regular pasellas for the past several years. I noticed an immediate  
improvement in "fun" when I switched to "regular' pasellas from the  
tour guards.  I have ordered the jack brown greens due to this need  
for fun rather than a "puncture proof" tire which I find no fun.


Obviously, there's a compomise inherent in any choice; were I using  
the tires for touring, I'd opt for the Panaracer Pasella with Tour  
Guard. But for every day riding, I'm looking for something more  
"fun". Maybe the jack's will prove more fun even than the regular  
pasellas.


Having said all this, I've been very happy with the panaracer  
pasellas, and wonder why Riv no longer sells them. Probably pushed  
out by all those Schwalbes I don't want.

On Jan 28, 2013, at 1:11 PM, Mike Schiller wrote:

kinda like the difference between a Pasela TG and non-TG. Night and  
day as far as the ride feel.


I only got about 700 miles on the GB Cypres before the rear tire  
casing split. They are a smooth rolling tire for sure.  The JB  
greens are plusher and roll very well for me at 190 lbs



~mike



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[RBW] Re: Iron on patches

[John Bokman]

I have ironed-on a patch to my waxed Baggins Adam saddlebag. It was a bit 
tricky. Wanted to slide around as the wax melted. I would think stitches 
would be better for a long-term relationship, although the patch has stayed 
put for a month now.



On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 4:11:39 PM UTC-7, scott wrote:
>
> I have always stitched patches on things. I had a weird morning where I 
> ordered some patches to put on my saddlesack. Anyone ironed on a waxed bag? 
> Does it muss anything up? I should probably still put some stitches anyway, 
> correct? 

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[RBW] Re: regarding orange bikes

[John Bokman]

Loved the old Rambouillet orange and the first generation Sam orange, but 
have not yet warmed to the new Sam orange, which looks more like a dull 
pumpkin orange to me. I'd not get tired of a really nice orange. Nor would 
I get tired of a really nice racing green, like some of the Riv customs 
I've seen. I think the blue hues would die for me first.

On Thursday, May 4, 2017 at 8:29:44 PM UTC-7, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> Tout passe, tout casse, tout lasse. But in spite of that French saying, 
> I've had an orange Riv custom for the past 16 years or so and the colour 
> hasn't yet palled:
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis! Tire question

[John Bokman]

Doug, I'm curious if you've ever tried your Atlantis with Marathon Green 
Guards. Wondering how they compare to the Supremes. On paper, the Supremes 
rein supreme, but in real world conditions I'd be curious. Of course they 
are heavy, but to paraphrase Grant: "With weight comes good things." I know 
over at the blog "Cycling About", the author did a tire rolling comparison 
(drum rollers, not real world) and puncture comparison, and the Marathon 
Green Guard came out very well indeed - especially considering the price 
per mile. For a true commuting/touring tire, it looks to be extremely long 
lasting.

J.



On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:12:19 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>
> Isaac:
>
> Congratulations on having excellent taste in bikes.  Be sure to post 
> photos when you've rec'd the bike.  
>
> One of the many beauties of the Atlantis is the ability to fit all sorts 
> of big chubby tires.  While 29+ may be pushing it, for your intended 
> purpose you have tons of good choices.  
>
> My personal bias is to Schwalbe because I hate flats.  I've been pleased 
> with the 40 mm Marathon Supremes on my 58 cm Atlantis, having used them for 
> many years.  When I was doing more touring (5-6k miles per year) I would 
> only get a flat or 2 per year.  Rear tires lasted a year & fronts a bit 
> longer.  I'm doing about 3,000 miles year now so rarely deal with a flat.  
> I also don't insist on getting the last mile out of a tire.  
>
> I've also tried the Marathon Mondials.  They give better traction off 
> pavement, at a penalty in ride & weight.  
>
> Others have used a wide variety of tires for similar uses so you'll no 
> doubt get plenty of responses with personal use information.  Compass, 
> Soma, et al have all been used with good result.  The trade-off, as always, 
> is puncture resistance and ride vs life span and flat resistance.  You may 
> end up with your own tire inventory.  It's a harmless indulgence.  Enjoy.
>
> dougP
>
> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 7:31:38 PM UTC-7, Birdman wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, 
>>
>> I am beyond thrilled to say that I just put a deposit down on a 64 
>> Atlantis with a double tt! Now I get to enjoy many months of anticipation 
>> while fantasizing about bike builds... 
>>
>> Speaking of which, I always rode 32mm pasellas on my Quickbeam as well as 
>> on my current touring bike, because of its relatively narrow crown and 
>> chain stays. The option of running larger tires on the Atlantis is part of 
>> its appeal for me, but I don't really know where to begin. 
>>
>> Any tire size/brand recommendations for commuting and touring with some 
>> gravel and dirt roads? I know it all comes down to compromises and personal 
>> preferences, but where should I start? 
>>
>> Thanks. I haven't posted here in many years. It's great to be coming back 
>> to the RBW Owners Bunch. 
>>
>> Isaac
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis! Tire question

[john Bokman]

Doug, thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I’m sure the Plus Tours would feel awful sluggish to me. I’m not a 
bruiser by any stretch. A loaded touring bike for me is only about 30 pounds of 
gear, max, so I would not be interested in anything more stout than the 
“regular old Marathon”. Even that might be unnecessary for my purposes. 


> On May 22, 2017, at 12:48 PM, dougP  wrote:
> 
> John:
> 
> No, I haven't tried the Green Guards.  I have used the Plus Tour.  It's even 
> heavier & tougher.  One flat in 6,000 miles on the rear & it was a big screw. 
>  I did notice a big improvement in ride & performance when I went back to 
> Supremes.  I think the Plus Tour is about 2X the weight of the Supreme.
> 
> One of my touring buds uses what is probably the Green Guard.  He refers to 
> them as "regular old Schwalbes, $35 each".  He gets few flats & they last a 
> long time.  He does over 12,000 miles per year.
> 
> IME, once the bike is loaded up, I don't notice as much difference in tires.  
> But without a load, I can definitely notice differences in ride quality & 
> performance such as getting up to speed from a stop.  
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:37:59 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
> Doug, I'm curious if you've ever tried your Atlantis with Marathon Green 
> Guards. Wondering how they compare to the Supremes. On paper, the Supremes 
> rein supreme, but in real world conditions I'd be curious. Of course they are 
> heavy, but to paraphrase Grant: "With weight comes good things." I know over 
> at the blog "Cycling About", the author did a tire rolling comparison (drum 
> rollers, not real world) and puncture comparison, and the Marathon Green 
> Guard came out very well indeed - especially considering the price per mile. 
> For a true commuting/touring tire, it looks to be extremely long lasting.
> 
> J.
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:12:19 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
> Isaac:
> 
> Congratulations on having excellent taste in bikes.  Be sure to post photos 
> when you've rec'd the bike.  
> 
> One of the many beauties of the Atlantis is the ability to fit all sorts of 
> big chubby tires.  While 29+ may be pushing it, for your intended purpose you 
> have tons of good choices.  
> 
> My personal bias is to Schwalbe because I hate flats.  I've been pleased with 
> the 40 mm Marathon Supremes on my 58 cm Atlantis, having used them for many 
> years.  When I was doing more touring (5-6k miles per year) I would only get 
> a flat or 2 per year.  Rear tires lasted a year & fronts a bit longer.  I'm 
> doing about 3,000 miles year now so rarely deal with a flat.  I also don't 
> insist on getting the last mile out of a tire.  
> 
> I've also tried the Marathon Mondials.  They give better traction off 
> pavement, at a penalty in ride & weight.  
> 
> Others have used a wide variety of tires for similar uses so you'll no doubt 
> get plenty of responses with personal use information.  Compass, Soma, et al 
> have all been used with good result.  The trade-off, as always, is puncture 
> resistance and ride vs life span and flat resistance.  You may end up with 
> your own tire inventory.  It's a harmless indulgence.  Enjoy.
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 7:31:38 PM UTC-7, Birdman wrote:
> Hi all, 
> 
> I am beyond thrilled to say that I just put a deposit down on a 64 Atlantis 
> with a double tt! Now I get to enjoy many months of anticipation while 
> fantasizing about bike builds... 
> 
> Speaking of which, I always rode 32mm pasellas on my Quickbeam as well as on 
> my current touring bike, because of its relatively narrow crown and chain 
> stays. The option of running larger tires on the Atlantis is part of its 
> appeal for me, but I don't really know where to begin. 
> 
> Any tire size/brand recommendations for commuting and touring with some 
> gravel and dirt roads? I know it all comes down to compromises and personal 
> preferences, but where should I start? 
> 
> Thanks. I haven't posted here in many years. It's great to be coming back to 
> the RBW Owners Bunch. 
> 
> Isaac
> 
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Re: [RBW] Atlantis! Tire question

[john Bokman]

To be specific, a Rivendell bicycle is an amazing device, being able to carry 
loads with ease, while not giving up a great feeling, fun ride.
> On May 22, 2017, at 3:49 PM, dougP  wrote:
> 
> John:
> 
> A bicycle is such an amazing device.  We consider "only about 30 lbs" to be a 
> moderate load.  What else can easily carry more than it's own weight?
> 
> Assuming that the 30 lbs is an occassional load like a lodging tour or an 
> S24O, and most of the time you're riding unloaded, my suggestion would be the 
> Supremes ride better than the Green Guards.  But for double the money they 
> should do something.  
> 
> dougP
> 
> On Monday, May 22, 2017 at 1:35:10 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
> Doug, thanks for the reply.
> Yeah, I’m sure the Plus Tours would feel awful sluggish to me. I’m not a 
> bruiser by any stretch. A loaded touring bike for me is only about 30 pounds 
> of gear, max, so I would not be interested in anything more stout than the 
> “regular old Marathon”. Even that might be unnecessary for my purposes. 
> 
> 
>> On May 22, 2017, at 12:48 PM, dougP gmail.com 
>> <http://gmail.com/>> wrote:
>> 
>> John:
>> 
>> No, I haven't tried the Green Guards.  I have used the Plus Tour.  It's even 
>> heavier & tougher.  One flat in 6,000 miles on the rear & it was a big 
>> screw.  I did notice a big improvement in ride & performance when I went 
>> back to Supremes.  I think the Plus Tour is about 2X the weight of the 
>> Supreme.
>> 
>> One of my touring buds uses what is probably the Green Guard.  He refers to 
>> them as "regular old Schwalbes, $35 each".  He gets few flats & they last a 
>> long time.  He does over 12,000 miles per year.
>> 
>> IME, once the bike is loaded up, I don't notice as much difference in tires. 
>>  But without a load, I can definitely notice differences in ride quality & 
>> performance such as getting up to speed from a stop.  
>> 
>> dougP
>> 
>> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:37:59 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
>> Doug, I'm curious if you've ever tried your Atlantis with Marathon Green 
>> Guards. Wondering how they compare to the Supremes. On paper, the Supremes 
>> rein supreme, but in real world conditions I'd be curious. Of course they 
>> are heavy, but to paraphrase Grant: "With weight comes good things." I know 
>> over at the blog "Cycling About", the author did a tire rolling comparison 
>> (drum rollers, not real world) and puncture comparison, and the Marathon 
>> Green Guard came out very well indeed - especially considering the price per 
>> mile. For a true commuting/touring tire, it looks to be extremely long 
>> lasting.
>> 
>> J.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:12:19 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>> Isaac:
>> 
>> Congratulations on having excellent taste in bikes.  Be sure to post photos 
>> when you've rec'd the bike.  
>> 
>> One of the many beauties of the Atlantis is the ability to fit all sorts of 
>> big chubby tires.  While 29+ may be pushing it, for your intended purpose 
>> you have tons of good choices.  
>> 
>> My personal bias is to Schwalbe because I hate flats.  I've been pleased 
>> with the 40 mm Marathon Supremes on my 58 cm Atlantis, having used them for 
>> many years.  When I was doing more touring (5-6k miles per year) I would 
>> only get a flat or 2 per year.  Rear tires lasted a year & fronts a bit 
>> longer.  I'm doing about 3,000 miles year now so rarely deal with a flat.  I 
>> also don't insist on getting the last mile out of a tire.  
>> 
>> I've also tried the Marathon Mondials.  They give better traction off 
>> pavement, at a penalty in ride & weight.  
>> 
>> Others have used a wide variety of tires for similar uses so you'll no doubt 
>> get plenty of responses with personal use information.  Compass, Soma, et al 
>> have all been used with good result.  The trade-off, as always, is puncture 
>> resistance and ride vs life span and flat resistance.  You may end up with 
>> your own tire inventory.  It's a harmless indulgence.  Enjoy.
>> 
>> dougP
>> 
>> On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 7:31:38 PM UTC-7, Birdman wrote:
>> Hi all, 
>> 
>> I am beyond thrilled to say that I just put a deposit down on a 64 Atlantis 
>> with a double tt! Now I get to enjoy many months of anticipation while 
>> fantasizing about bike builds... 
>> 
>> Speaking of which, I always rode 32mm pasell

[RBW] Re: Fenders - worth the safety risks? Rethinking my fender use.

[John Bokman]

I second Michael's wish for further information.

I use Barlows, and although I've got plenty of clearance with my Berthoud 
fenders, I have often thought I'll try the Bon Jons when I eventually wear 
the tread down. I like the ride with the Barlows, but I also liked the ride 
with Jack Brown Greens, because it was a bit quicker to turn. Since I 
mostly ride on road, I don't really need the 38mm width. So maybe the Bon 
Jons would be the Goldilocks tire for me. Yet, I worry that the tire, being 
"tubeless compatible" might be difficult to seat on my Velocity Synergy 
rims?



On Monday, May 29, 2017 at 7:06:03 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> More gears, less tire. Interesting choice.  I look forward to a post from 
> you on how the tires compare and how the 10 spd friction works out.  Do 
> include more specifics about the drive chain and start a new thread.
>
> Michael
>
> On Sunday, May 28, 2017 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>>
>> I did a refresh on my AHH which now sports 10 spd friction and sized down 
>> from 38mm EL Barlow Pass to 35mm EL Bon Jon Pass tires.
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Where's Brian?

[John Bokman]

He helped me buy my Sam frame recently. Super nice, easy to work with, 
insightful, and very helpful. He was great at follow up questions after 
purchase, too. I tried emailing him about a month ago and he didn't return 
my message, which was not like him. the next time I tried his email was not 
operational. Apparently he was not getting the message because he was gone. 
Sorry to see him go. 

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 8:18:43 PM UTC-7, Ian Strader wrote:
>
> He definitely had the most lust worthy staff builds, imo. His AHH is a 
> work of art
>
> On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 9:28:04 AM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Weird, I just talked to him like a month or two ago when visiting and 
>> sometimes run into him riding around town in Oakland. He helped me with a 
>> few builds and was always super helpful. He must be gone since he's no 
>> longer on the site, though usually I feel like they announce people coming 
>> and going on the blug. I would assume they want to fill the mechanic 
>> position since they're probably just down to Mark now.
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 6:45:49 AM UTC-7, RichS wrote:
>>>
>>> Yesterday I noticed Rivendell's Brian was no longer on the contact list 
>>> nor was he included on the staff bikes page. Any clues as to why? Brian was 
>>> always helpful and responsive to my questions. I'll miss him.
>>>
>>> Thanks very much,
>>> Richard
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] (New School) MUSA pants for sale

[John Bokman]

Sorry David, they’re sold.
On Sep 21, 2015, at 5:08 PM, David <23writ...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm interested John. Let me know if they're still available and I'll follow 
> up tomorrow.
> Thanks. 
> David
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Sep 21, 2015, at 7:48 PM, john  wrote:
> 
>> I've had these for a few years, I guess. I don't wear them because I prefer 
>> the Old School MUSA pants (the ones with the velcro closure at the ankle) 
>> which I wear more than any pants I own. 
>> 
>> These New School pants (zipper at the ankle) are in terrific shape, no 
>> blemishes of any kind, it's just that I never wear them. Maybe someone out 
>> there likes the New School better than me?
>> 
>> Sized Medium, but I'd only recommend them to someone who has thin legs, like 
>> me. They aren't as roomy as the Old School pants, in my estimation.
>> 
>> $25 shipped?
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who makes Canvas Panniers now?

[John Bokman]

Deacon, I'm curious about the attachment system of the Frost River bags. 
They do indeed look rugged and weatherproof, with what I'd consider a good 
shape (wide enough, not just tall). But as for the attachment: I  wonder if 
you have used this buckle system before? In practice, can one get a snug 
enough fit so the bags don't jump about on the rack? I've only used the 
bungee cord system, which works well for me because the bag is under 
tension. Appreciate your thoughts.
J.

On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 7:39:05 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thanks, Jeff. I appreciate it. I've bounced panniers with that mounting 
> system clean off, so I'll stick with the Frost Rivers, which are on the way 
> any road.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 8:22:03 PM UTC-7, Jeff wrote:
>>
>> I have a set of the Swift rolltop panniers in waxed canvas that I picked 
>> up from a fellow list member just over a year ago. They're stout and feel 
>> pretty bulletproof. I've used them a couple of times but I tend to turn to 
>> my Ortlieb panniers more often thanks to their superior mounting solution 
>> and lighter weight. I've not formally put them up for sale but if they look 
>> right for you, Deacon, I'm sure we could figure out a way for you to knock 
>> the dust off of 'em. Here's some pictures the original owner/seller took 
>> when he offered them up last year: 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/jbusteed/sets/72157660475769437/
>>
>> -Jeff
>> Silver Spring, MD
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 20, 2016 at 9:05 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> You are spot on and no doubt so are my daughters. They know and I know I 
>>> fit in a very different category from them in terms of usage and abuse, 
>>> even when we're on the same trip. Sardonic grin. I used the pair of 
>>> Back-A-Bikes to test out the concept of separate panniers (rather than the 
>>> toursacks) for several runs and the ease of access was fantastic (with full 
>>> Arctic mittens on no less). I will miss that and as in so many things in 
>>> life, there is a trade off. Harder to access for me and for the wet. Grin. 
>>> What I didn't test was days and nights in the soaking wet 2/3rds of the 
>>> time, as happens on many of my trips (since Colorado is so dry!) Grin.
>>>
>>> I grilled the biking guy at Frost River, and he said he's been fairly 
>>> abusive of his and gave some specifics, including brushing brick walls, and 
>>> bushes and laying the bike down on concrete. So we're in the right category 
>>> (as is Riv's series). Frost River does canoe gear for abuse in the field 
>>> and guarantees it forever, so know their stuff from that perspective. Time 
>>> will tell!
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 6:50:46 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:

 I vote with your daughters. I love the back a bike bags. I don't know 
 if you can beat the ease of frequent access. I have found mine to be a 
 real 
 pleasure to use multiple times each day--love the toggles!  I don't know 
 that the buckles and belts and what have you on other panniers would be 
 more or less likely to snag in the brush. I have not had issues with 
 water, 
 though I do not do the kind of riding you do. Here is a fun little 
 Riv-vid: 
 https://vimeo.com/123971564
  I realize you are looking for something different here, but just 
 wanted to put in another good word for these bags!


 On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 1:42:17 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Who makes um and what is your experience with them, especially as it 
> relates to: 
> — ease of access 
> — weatherproof 
> — bikepacking and errand daily use heartiness 
> — other issues that stand out? 
>
> After years of use, with my TourSacks, I discovered just how much play 
> there is with the center load (sleeping bag, pad, tent, hatchet) anchored 
> to the fabric top rather than directly to the rack. (I tried my 
> daughter’s 
> Back-a-Bike bags). But the Back-a-Bike bags do not look weatherproof 
> enough 
> and the wooden chord closure thingy has already snagged on bits of brush 
> and that just on the MUPS. 
>
> Carsick looks to be out of the waxed canvas biz. Frost River’s new 
> Highway 61 look excellent and are my most likely choice. Interestingly, 
> when I talked it over with my daughters, they agree with Grant’s design, 
> preferring ease of access to full weatherproofing. They also don’t go 
> bashing through brush the same way I do. Grin. 
>
> Any others doing waxed canvas panniers out there and what’s your 
> experience with them? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
> -- 
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>>> To unsubscribe fro

Re: [RBW] Re: Who makes Canvas Panniers now?

[John Bokman]

That sounds like a good setup.

I’d most likely be using these bags on my front panniers: Tubus Tara. The Tara 
has a U-shaped bottom rather than a flat bar. I wonder if this would not be 
optimal for the attachment of the Frost River. 

I wonder if others have used such an attachment system with Tubus Taras or 
similar?


> On Dec 21, 2016, at 1:44 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
> 
> Great question, John. My TourSacks were "lash on" (rather than elastic, as 
> you describe), and my experience is lash on systems are far less "playful" on 
> the rack over bumps for the simple reason that elastic gives, lashing does 
> not. My main issue with the TourSacks is the load on top needing a more solid 
> anchor point, not the load in the panniers, which was always solid for me, 
> though I suspect with a combined 4 top-o-rack lashing points on the Frost 
> River (two per pannier) vs. one on the TourSacks, the load will be even more 
> stable. But nothing like testing in real world bashing to find out! Grin.
> 
> I also have the new(well, to me) Nitto big rack (no tombstone, pannier 
> mounting bar) coming, so that will lower CG and improve access for securing 
> the top-load. Combined with a twill saddlesack on the way and a possible 
> frame bag from Frost River, all the niggling challenges I've had are getting 
> ironed out, I hope! Grin.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> 
> On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 2:07:40 PM UTC-7, John Bokman wrote:
> Deacon, I'm curious about the attachment system of the Frost River bags. They 
> do indeed look rugged and weatherproof, with what I'd consider a good shape 
> (wide enough, not just tall). But as for the attachment: I  wonder if you 
> have used this buckle system before? In practice, can one get a snug enough 
> fit so the bags don't jump about on the rack? I've only used the bungee cord 
> system, which works well for me because the bag is under tension. Appreciate 
> your thoughts.
> J.
> 
> On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 7:39:05 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
> Thanks, Jeff. I appreciate it. I've bounced panniers with that mounting 
> system clean off, so I'll stick with the Frost Rivers, which are on the way 
> any road.
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
> 
> On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 8:22:03 PM UTC-7, Jeff wrote:
> I have a set of the Swift rolltop panniers in waxed canvas that I picked up 
> from a fellow list member just over a year ago. They're stout and feel pretty 
> bulletproof. I've used them a couple of times but I tend to turn to my 
> Ortlieb panniers more often thanks to their superior mounting solution and 
> lighter weight. I've not formally put them up for sale but if they look right 
> for you, Deacon, I'm sure we could figure out a way for you to knock the dust 
> off of 'em. Here's some pictures the original owner/seller took when he 
> offered them up last year: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/jbusteed/sets/72157660475769437/ 
> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/jbusteed/sets/72157660475769437/>
> 
> -Jeff
> Silver Spring, MD
> 
> 
> On Tue, Dec 20, 2016 at 9:05 PM, Deacon Patrick > wrote:
> You are spot on and no doubt so are my daughters. They know and I know I fit 
> in a very different category from them in terms of usage and abuse, even when 
> we're on the same trip. Sardonic grin. I used the pair of Back-A-Bikes to 
> test out the concept of separate panniers (rather than the toursacks) for 
> several runs and the ease of access was fantastic (with full Arctic mittens 
> on no less). I will miss that and as in so many things in life, there is a 
> trade off. Harder to access for me and for the wet. Grin. What I didn't test 
> was days and nights in the soaking wet 2/3rds of the time, as happens on many 
> of my trips (since Colorado is so dry!) Grin.
> 
> I grilled the biking guy at Frost River, and he said he's been fairly abusive 
> of his and gave some specifics, including brushing brick walls, and bushes 
> and laying the bike down on concrete. So we're in the right category (as is 
> Riv's series). Frost River does canoe gear for abuse in the field and 
> guarantees it forever, so know their stuff from that perspective. Time will 
> tell!
> 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 6:50:46 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
> I vote with your daughters. I love the back a bike bags. I don't know if you 
> can beat the ease of frequent access. I have found mine to be a real pleasure 
> to use multiple times each day--love the toggles!  I don't know that the 
> buckles and belts and what have you on other panniers would be more or less 
> likely 

[RBW] Hillborne 6-degree upsloping top tube

[John Bokman]

I'm trying to discern if there's any real (not imagined) physical 
properties of the upsloping top tube on my 2009 Sam that would make it a 
sluggish climber. I've never cared for the aesthetics of the sloped frame, 
so I'm thinking it could be in my head. But the truth is, I've always felt 
the bike is sluggish climbing, and I'm curious what other's think. Granted, 
tires make a big difference, but regardless of tires and tire pressures 
(I've used many variants), the result is the same for me: sluggish 
climbing. Whatever you do, please don't tell me it's the motor!

 

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne 6-degree upsloping top tube

[John Bokman]

Bill, your number one is about it.

I understand that Grant designed the Hillborne to fit many riders within a 
given range. I could have chosen a 56 or 60 Sam, as there was nothing in 
between. From what I understand, less models were needed because of the 
sloping top tube and how it effectively brings the bars up that much 
higher, so it can fit more riders. While I realize there are many factors 
to what makes a bike feel fast or not so fast (wheels, tires, chain stay 
length, etc., take your pick), I am curious about the geometry of the frame 
and how it may or may not affect what I consider sluggish climbing. I'm 
making no complaints as to the design of the bike, and I understand why 
Grant drew this one up the way he did (from what I understand, I could be 
wrong). Although I admit that aesthetically I don't like the sloping top 
tube, it may not have anything to do with how the bike rides. I guess I was 
wondering out loud how others feel about their bikes with 6 degree 
upsloping top tubes as relates to climbing. 

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 3:19:29 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> There is a question implied in there, but I'm not quite sure what it is. 
>  I'll guess at the question:
>
> 1.  "If I hypothetically had a frame builder cut the top tube out of my 
> Hillborne frame, and replace it with an identical top tube (same diameter, 
> wall thickness) that was level, leaving my fit identical, would my bike 
> climb better?"
>
> If that's the question, then my answer is: No.  
>
> Stated in the reverse:
>
> 2.  "If I hypothetically took a "good climbing bike" with a level top 
> tube, and had a frame builder remove the top tube and replace it with an 
> identical 6-degree sloping top tube, leaving my fit the same, would that 
> bike become a sluggish climber?"
>
> If that's the question, then my answer is: No.  
>
> Guessing at another question:
>
> 3.  "I feel my Hillborne is a sluggish climber.  Do you think I'm wrong to 
> feel that?"
>
> If that's the question, then my answer is: No, you are entitled to feel 
> whatever you want to feel about your bike or anybody's bike.  
>
> Final guess at the question:
>
> 4.  "I suspect that the Hillborne is a categorically poor climber, for 
> every rider and every possible setup.  I suspect the fatal flaw is the top 
> tube slope.  Do you agree?"
>
> If that's the question, then my answer is: No, I do not agree.  Some 
> riders (me included) feel that their Hillborne is not a sluggish climber.
>
> and the (really final!) followup:
>
> 4.1.  "If my Hillborne is a sluggish climber, and if it's not because of 
> the sloping TT, then what should I change to "fix" my Hillborne?"
>
> If that's the question, then my answer is: "it depends.  Let's have a look 
> at it"
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 2:29:16 PM UTC-8, John Bokman wrote:
>>
>> I'm trying to discern if there's any real (not imagined) physical 
>> properties of the upsloping top tube on my 2009 Sam that would make it a 
>> sluggish climber. I've never cared for the aesthetics of the sloped frame, 
>> so I'm thinking it could be in my head. But the truth is, I've always felt 
>> the bike is sluggish climbing, and I'm curious what other's think. Granted, 
>> tires make a big difference, but regardless of tires and tire pressures 
>> (I've used many variants), the result is the same for me: sluggish 
>> climbing. Whatever you do, please don't tell me it's the motor!
>>
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne 6-degree upsloping top tube

[John Bokman]

Yes Garth, I do have a different bike, and it's quite different, and I'm 
sure that does indeed affect my perception of the Sam. 

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 3:19:12 PM UTC-8, Garth wrote:
>
> Maybe you are comparing it another bike with a more mid or low trail 
> geometry ?   Yes, when I change from my sport touring bike with neutral 
> handling to my Bombadil it feels downtight wierd every time , but now it 
> passes quickly.  That wierd could be called sluggish by someone else, since 
> especially on steeper climbs and standing the bike feels resistant to 
> handlebar input compared to what I am most accustomed to.   As for actual 
> differences in speed there is none, just different ways to do the same 
> thing. 

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne 6-degree upsloping top tube

[John Bokman]

Of course! I've had my eye on the Atlantis, the Long-Low, the All-Rounder, 
to name a few over the years.

To my mind, aside from the gorgeous customs I've seen, the Atlantis has to 
be my favorite Rivendell of al time.

On Thursday, January 5, 2017 at 4:13:36 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> John 
>
> I was hoping your real question was:  "I'm not sure about my Hillborne, so 
> is it OK if I buy another bike?" 
>
> That's an easy YES. 😉

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