Re: [RCSE] Wood Crafters 2006, it's Offical

2005-10-27 Thread miamimike
 Wood Craters will feature:  Thursday and Friday

ROBERT M GELLART [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Not to sound a bit thick, but what the heck are you talking about?

He's talking about craters! That's what sailplanes make in the ground when
both of the winch solenoids get stuck and the winch won't stop.

To keep your sailplane from making a crater, build one of my winch solenoid
safety buzzers.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Unsubscribe

2005-10-26 Thread miamimike
Jim Larkin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Wont be the same without youJim

He might just be switching to a different email address.

Anyway, I believe the unsubscribe command has to be sent to
soaring-request@airage.com

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Translations wanted

2005-10-16 Thread miamimike
Mark Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

BTW does anybody know what a bablefish is?

You're not spelling it right, which is why it only returns 85,200 Google
hits. A Google search for babel fish will produce 1,600,00 hits, or
3,110,000 hits without the quotes:

http://www.google.com/search?q=babel+fishbtnG=Search

Does anyone know what a google is? (Just kidding.)

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] RC and airports

2005-10-09 Thread miamimike
...if any of you know who might be sloping near the (Phoenix) Deer Valley
airport, could you kindly ask him to stop?

Please check out this image:

http://www.vvsss.com/misc/deer-valley.jpg

and if you have Google Earth, this placemark:

http://www.vvsss.com/misc/deer-valley.kmz

Let me know if I have it right.

Thanks,
Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Charity raffle for Steve Lange...I'm in for $200, Who's Matching?

2005-10-08 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I'm trying to figure out how this applies to RC Soaring as a topic...

Guys, here's a link to Gordy's One of our own, underwater in New Orleans
post, just in case anyone wants to shove it in his face. 

http://www.mail-archive.com/soaring@airage.com/msg97077.html

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Batteries??

2005-10-05 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I've also had several very bad experiences with those people. Most recently, 
I called about a batch of batteries that weren't peaking to spec. I wasn't 
asking to send them back, I only called to let him know that he might want to 
check his stock. He replied with something very rude and hung up on me. If 
you're 
particular about batteries, I'd stay away from that place.

I'm guessing that you mean Batteries America, but I'm not sure. If you're not
going to quote the post you're replying to, you really ought to at least be
specific about who those people and that place are. There's no easy way
to tell from what you wrote above.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Batteries??

2005-10-05 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Mike,
Having replied to a post that showed concerns about only one company, I'm 
surprised that you were confused about what company I was referring to. Please 
send me a list of the other companies you thought I might have meant, and I'll 
pick out which one I meant for you.

- Steve

That's a rather odd message, considering that I specifically acknowledged
that you were probably talking about Batteries America.

By the way, there's something different about your email headers that you
might want to know about. Most of the follow-up posts here have either an
In-Reply-To: or a References: header, but your posts have neither. For some
email clients this can cause your follow-up messages to appear all by
themselves, which is what happened in my case. On my email program, I had to
reluctantly activate enable threading by subject to get your messages to
appear along with the rest of their respective threads.

I should also add that many here have complained that they don't always
receive all of the RCSE messages. That's another reason why it's good
practice to always quote the text you're replying to, and to never assume
that your readers will see on their screens the same list of posts in the
same order that you see on yours. It might work okay on web-based forums like
RCGroups.com, but you can't depend on it here.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] speed controller question

2005-09-26 Thread miamimike
Douglas, Brent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I pulled out an old Schulze controller yesterday for an electric event,
and I could not get it to work.  It's basically an MCD-99, future 88.
Back in the shop, I found it would only work with a receiver battery,
but I swear I have used this in a BEC setup on 8 cells.

If you've used this setup or similar*, any suggestions for getting it
running without the RX battery?  It's already back out of the ship, but
I'd like to use it again, and that's the natural configuration I'd go
to.

If all that's wrong is the BEC, you could just add on an external BEC such as
a UBEC http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ubec.htm or an SBEC
http://www.battlepack.com/s-bec.asp or, if you want to save money and you
don't have a large servo load, you could wire in an ordinary linear 5 volt
regulator. The LM2940T-5.0 would be a good choice.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Great Spot Landing @ LAX

2005-09-22 Thread miamimike
ROBERT M GELLART [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I have been surprised that no one has said anything...

You should have joined us on RCGroups.com for our live, as-it-happened
discussion:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=418866

By now the thread has passed through its wow, what a great job by that
pilot phase and is beginning to see some overhyped by the media, really no
big deal comments. 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Removing wing servo...

2005-09-20 Thread miamimike
Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

OK, Here's a probably dumb idea...

Would it be possible to gently heat the outside of the wing skin? Such that
the glue would get soft?

This reminds me of how you get the meat out of a conch shell. The way to do
it depends upon whether you want to eat the meat or save the shell!

When you want to remove a servo from a plane, it's generally either because
the plane is trashed and you want to reuse the servo, or the servo is bad and
you want to repair it or install a new one in the plane. I get the impression
that it's the latter case here. If so, and if it's not absolutely necessary
to repair the servo rather than just replace it, then I'd try heating the
servo - even if it starts to melt - rather than heating the wing skin. That
seems more sensible to me.
  
Mike
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Re: [RCSE] nsp epsilon

2005-09-19 Thread miamimike
mack_scoot [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

does anyone know about this plane? Does anyone have any pictures of 
this plane? just trying to find out more about it before i buy it

There's an Epsilon 1.5 - http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=2939

an Epsilon 2M - http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=3066

and an Epsilon 2.5M - http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=3254

Which one do you mean?

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Duel Solenoids Save Planes

2005-09-16 Thread miamimike
Cal Posthuma [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I take paypal, checks, and MO

... and I take the warm fuzzy feeling of having invented it.

I'm looking forward to hearing a report someday of how a solenoid safety
buzzer, whether home-built or bought from Cal, saved a glider from being
strained through a turn-around. I know it's bound to happen sooner or later.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Retro winch

2005-09-13 Thread miamimike
In a message dated Fri, April 18, 1997, Eddie Smith
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Ha Haa  I like it.

Your computer's clock needs to be set.


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Re: [RCSE] Aerobatic glider

2005-09-05 Thread miamimike
Zb. Michalczyk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

try Voltij (80)  from Tom Kopp
More sloping then themaling ship, but could do knife edge with easy

I found it here:

http://www.f3x.com/htdocs/aeromod/voltij.htm

It looks nice, but the price is $375 plus some extreme shipping charges.

Oh well...

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] question

2005-09-02 Thread miamimike
Ron Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Any body else getting very few posts these days, starting to feel a bit
lonely:-).

For the last week I count:

22 posts dated 8/26/2005
14 posts dated 8/27/2005
10 posts dated 8/28/2005
15 posts dated 8/29/2005
14 posts dated 8/30/2005
20 posts dated 8/31/2005
17 posts dated 9/1/2005

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] EZ Dancer

2005-08-31 Thread miamimike
vdbailey2 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I am trying to contact the person who recently provided the secs for
his new version of the Bubble Dancer called EZ DANCER.
Do you know his name?  website?  TIA

I think this is the link that Jerry Leach meant to post:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=372207

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Prattville Fly in

2005-08-31 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I apologize if you get more than one invitation.

You should also apologize if they get lots of spam. That was quite a mailing
list that you just released to the public.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Futaba Transmitter Synthesizer

2005-08-26 Thread miamimike
ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Just bought one of the new Futaba Synthesizer for my Super 8 transmitter.
Someone told me that there units use additiontal power from the battery pack
and it would be a good idea to upgrade my pack.  They do seem to generate
more heat than a standard module.
Any one have and answer or opinon?

Here's an RCGroups.com thread about that module:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345704

and here are a few thoughts from me:

The Hitec Spectra module has been reported to both run hot and drain
batteries quicker. It seem like a reasonable assumption that the new Futaba
module, as well as the new JR synthesizer module, will do the same.

It's pretty cheap and easy to upgrade your battery pack, and you'll love the
extended charge time even if you haven't done anything to increase your power
consumption.

If you have decent soldering skills, I recommend buying two four-packs of
Energizer NiMh AA cells from a local department store like Target or WalMart.
They're available in 2500 MAh capacity these days, which is over four times
the capacity of the 600 MAh NiCd cells supplied with most radios in the past.

If you can't find a replacement connector, just reuse the one from your old
NiCd pack. (Warning - Don't cut through both wires at the same time!)

There's no need to solder the cells end-to-end. Just connect the cell ends
with short jumper wires. Then tape up the pack with duct tape if you don't
have any shrink tubing, and make sure the pack can't short circuit to any
metal inside the battery compartment of your radio. (This is a potential
problem with Hitec Eclipse 7 radios.) 

The old charger that came with your radio ought to work fine, but of course
it'll take a lot longer to charge your pack because of the greater capacity.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] singing wings

2005-08-26 Thread miamimike
Bill Johns [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Greetings!

Now this looks most interesting:  22% increase in lift for small  
aircraft.

http://www.newscientist.com/article.ns?id=dn7867feedId=online-news_rss20

(Word-wrap mangled link repaired.)

That's an interesting article, and an especially interesting description of a
stall:

The air can no longer remain attached to the wing and it tends to break off
in large sheets..., says Ian Salmon, an engineer with Qantas Airways in
Sydney, who conducted the research while at the University of New South
Wales, also in Sydney. But Salmon has found that certain frequencies of sound
help air stay attached to the wing.

Does that really make sense? I wonder. I don't think I've ever heard a wing
stall described quite like that before.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Stolen JR 9303 from Sherman Knight

2005-08-16 Thread miamimike
Here's a suggestion: Maybe you might want to also tell us the channels the
radios were on and some of the model names programmed into their memories.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Sport Fans,
 
Both my radios and wallet were stolen last night from my Suburban in the  
office parking garage in Kirkland Washington.  Two hours later someone used  
my 
credit card at the Teriyaki Box in Renton Washington.  
 
Keep your eyes open for a 9303 and a 8103.  
 
If someone sees something on ebay or Graig's list or some other auction  
place, please let me know.
 
thanks again  

Sherman  Knight
The Law Offices of Sherman L Knight
5400 Carillon Point
Kirkland  WA 98033
425-576-4028 wk
425-576-4029 fax
425-822-9305  hm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail

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Re: [RCSE] Re: Great Job guys

2005-08-14 Thread miamimike
Dan Kitching [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Better to be called a geek than a nerd!

regis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

That would be because.   ?

A nerd is someone who annoys you because he's dumber than you are, while a
geek annoys you because he's smarter than you are.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] 8103 Help

2005-08-10 Thread miamimike
Sheldon-YNT uDesign [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Can anyone guide me on setting-up a JR 8103 my old XP3 flaperon-equipped
plane (1 servo each wing), with Rud/Elev for flaperon/throttle control on
the throttle stick? Yep, I've converted it over to an electric for my wife
and she's on my case to Git 'er done so she can learn to fly. If you have
a data template, that would be greatly appreciated.

I use the crow switch to toggle the throttle stick function back and forth
between flaperon-spoileron-crow (I'll call that airbrakes), and ESC
control. The method has many advantages over simply putting the motor on a
switch. Not only do you retain both variable airbrakes and variable motor
speed control, but with the crow switch in the airbrake position, the motor
is in a safe mode where it won't come on if the stick is bumped. I always put
my crow switch in that position before plugging in my battery, turning on my
plane, or doing a range check.

The heart of the matter is to use PROG.Mix3 to disable channel 1 whenever the
crow switch is set to the airbrake position. (I use crow switch up or BTFY0
for airbrakes, and crow switch down or BTFY1 for motor control.) 

Here's a short version:

Go into the Butterfly programming mode and set up your airbrakes to respond
to the throttle stick while the crow switch is in the up position (BTFY0). In
order for this to work right, it's best that normal flying is done with the
throttle stick down and airbrakes are applied by raising the throttle stick.
That will make the transition between modes easier and safer.

Set all of the BTFY1 settings to zero so that the throttle stick has no
effect on airbrakes with the crow switch down.

Now go into PROG.Mix3. 

Set the first line under PROG.Mix3 to SPOI-SPOI if it's not set that way
already. (You'll effectively be mixing the spolier/throttle channel with
itself so that it cancels itself out.)

Set both of the Rate: functions to -100%.

Set SW: to BTFY0. The word OFF should appear with the CROW switch down
and should disappear with the CROW switch up.

With the crow switch up, select OFFSET, and with the throttle stick down
all the way, press CLEAR to set the offset to about -175.

If you need more details, there's a longer explanation with some pictures on
my website at http://www.vvsss.com/xp8103/

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Estate planning

2005-08-07 Thread miamimike
Loren Blinde [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Let's say that tomorrow, due to circumstances beyond your control, you 
either go to heaven, ascend to a higher reality or become worm-food, 
depending on your own personal beliefs...

There are some who doubt that the matter depends upon your beliefs.

You may have this sunshine vision of your flying buddies enjoying the 
fruits of your labors, but if its not written down, it may not be so.  Just 
think about it  it's all to easy to worry about it the day after tomorrow.

I'm not so sure that anyone I know would be comfortable flying a model that
belonged to a dead friend. I mean, think about the day that it crashes. How
would your beneficiary feel about that?

Still it's true, wills are good to have.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] mono soaking

2005-08-01 Thread miamimike
Charles Eaton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

OK I give up.  Why would you soak mono?

Beats me, I just iron it on.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Lag time posting to RCSE

2005-08-01 Thread miamimike
clayrace2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

The last post I sent in to RCSE took 13 days to post. Was there 
something going on with the server that caused this or am I doing 
something wrong? When I want to post a new message from the Yahoo site 
I click on Post, then type my message and hit send. What should the 
usual lag time be?

Here's something that Michael Lachowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] posted about that
last April 15:

If you are not subscribed directly to soaring@airage.com, and you post
through one of the other mirrors, e.g. RC Groups, you have to wait for the
messages to be approved for them to be delivered to RCSE. Part of how RCSE
keeps to a low SPAM level,  we can all generate enough drivel without the
help of the professional mail abusers and scam artists out there.

You can go to his web site for directions on how to subscribe:
http://www.eclipse.net/~mikel/rcse/rcse.htm 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Why are so many guys unsubscribing?

2005-07-29 Thread miamimike
There are two conflicting trains of thought here.

One is that if you want to see the list thrive and not die out, it's better
to at least post SOMETHING, even if it's not the most exciting flash bulletin
in the world, in order to generate activity and keep the conversation
going, so to speak.

The other is that uninteresting posts and threads will bore everyone and
prompt them to go elsewhere, therefore they should be avoided.

Which is right? I don't know, but I'll admit that this post seems to suggest
that I favor the first over the second. :)

Here's another thought: Is it really true that there's an increase in the
number of people unsubscribing? Maybe we just have that impression because so
many people are sending the commands to the wrong email address. You're
supposed to send them to soaring-request@airage.com, but many people are
incorrectly sending them to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Perhaps that's because of the
recent list software problems that have been reported, causing people to try
everything they can think of when the properly addressed command fails.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] The Gordy rule

2005-07-29 Thread miamimike
Dan Kitching [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

What?!?! Flying hydroplanes NOT soaring related? I beg to differ.
I'd bet that it can be sloped !!!;-)

Put a sail on it and maybe it can tack against the wind too. :)

If you want to grab that movie and store it on your own hard drive, here's a
link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4093375postcount=4

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Electric P51D For Sale

2005-07-24 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I couldn't heave this model hard enough at my age.

Why not put it away for now and wait until you grow up a little more?  :)
 
Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JrXP8103 Programming Question (Tow Release)

2005-07-21 Thread miamimike
David Nasatir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

As it happens, I use the spoiler for trailing edge camber and butterfly 
switch for crow so, in fact, the three position FLAP switch is currently 
not in use.  How should I proceed to program it to operate the tow 
release on channel 8 (Aux 3) on my Jr XP8103?

I should have asked which of the programmable mixes you were already using. I
was able to achieve what you want by using PROG.Mix4 and PROG.Mix5, but I'm
sure it could be done with two of the other mixes instead if necessary.
Hopefully you're not already using those two mixes.

The reason it's necessary to use two mixes is that PROG.Mix4 is used to
cancel the effect of the BTFY (butterfly) switch on AUX3, while PROG.Mix5 is
used to assign control of AUX3 to FLP-D (the flap switch down). You could
alternately assign the function to FLP-U instead if you like, but I'll show
FLP-D in my example.

The PROG.Mix4 screen looks like this:

-

[PROG.Mix4]
AUX3 - AUX3

   Rate: -100%
 -100%
   SW:  ON
   Offset
 -171

-

The PROG.Mix5 screen looks like this:

-

[PROG.Mix5]
AUX3 - AUX3

   Rate: -100%
 -100%
   SW:  FLP-DOFF (OFF appears only when the flap switch is not down.) 
   Offset
 +171

-

To achieve this, start by programming PROG.Mix5. If you do PROG.Mix 4 first,
it may interfere with the setting of the two rates in PROG.Mix5.

1. Hit DN and SELECT together to bring up [FUNC.LIST] and then use UP or DN
to get to PROG.Mix4. Hit UP and DN together to select that mode and make sure
it says INH. If not, hit CLEAR to disable it for now.

2 Hit UP, or repeat step #1, to advance to PROG.Mix5.

3. Use the DATA and CH buttons to set AUX3 on both the left and right sides.
You should see AUX3 - AUX3.

4. Make sure the SW: function says ON for now. If it doesn't, use the
SELECT button to jump down to SW: and then use the DATA buttons to change it
to ON. You'll be changing it to FLP-D shortly, but you'll need it set to
ON in order to adjust both of the rates.

5. Use the SELECT button to select Rate.

6. Since you haven't disabled the BTFY switch yet, you can use it to select
between the two rates. Select each one and then use the DATA buttons to set
it to -100%.

7. Use the SELECT button to select Offset.

8. If you have the BTFY switch down and hit CLEAR, Offset should assume the
value -171. If the BTFY switch is up and you hit CLEAR, it should assume the
value +171. Use the latter method to set it to +171. (Note: I don't know for
sure that your radio will adjust to exactly +/- 171, but it should at least
be close to those values. It shouldn't matter what the exact values turns out
to be.)

9. Finally, use the SELECT button to go back to SW: and then use the DATA
buttons to set it to FLP-D (or to FLP-U if you prefer.)  

10. Now program PROG.Mix4. To do this, follow all of the steps above except
leave SW: set to ON, and set Offset to -171 as described in step #8.

11. Select MONIT from the [FUNC.LIST] screen and check to see that everything
works as intended. Be sure the BTFY switch has no effect on AUX3 under any
circumstances. If you need to reverse the way your release servo works, go to
REV.SW and use the CH and DATA buttons to reverse channel 8.

That's it! Post here on the list again if you have any problems or questions,
and of course anyone else here is very welcome to add their comments,
suggestions, or corrections.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Goldberg Endurance 400 ARF

2005-07-21 Thread miamimike
Dan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Has anyone had any experience with the above electric sailplane? Good, bad, 
comments?

Here's an rcgroups.com thread with lots of posts:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345404

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] At the Nats

2005-07-20 Thread miamimike
Cal Posthuma [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I tried but they do not have dual solenoids.  I said I would make them a 
deal. Guess they need be proved yet??

Some guys stubbornly stick with one solenoid.

That's exactly what happened to me when I brought a couple of units with me
to the Orlando Buzzards Tangerine contest in Orlando, Florida. I understand
that those guys HAVE had planes destroyed by stuck solenoids, including one
that belonged to one of our club members here in South Florida, yet they
still have only one solenoid on each winch.

I was going to donate the safety buzzers to them for free too, but as it
turned out there was no point.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JrXP8103 Programming Question (Tow Release)

2005-07-20 Thread miamimike
David Nasatir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

1) What is the recommended action for operating the tow release 
mechanism, (currently on channel 8)?
2) In the absence of advice against this practice, I would like to open 
the release by activating the timer switch on my Jr XP8103.  What would 
be the appropriate mixing instructions to do that?

The timer switch isn't available for mixing so you'll have to forget about
that. The switches that are available to control AUX3 (channel 8) are:

1. The BTFY (crow or butterfly) switch, located on the top-left just in front
of the timer switch. At the default glider settings, that switch already
switches AUX3 between full on and full off, but that switch is very useful
for other purposes such as switching between variable crow and variable
camber, so I don't think it would be a very good choice for your tow release.
There's a way to disable its effect on AUX3 if you want to use a different
control.

2. The MIX switch, located exactly where your timer switch is except on the
right side of the radio instead of the left, but again, you might want to use
that for other purposes such as switching in flaps coupled to ailerons,
ailerons coupled to flaps, rudder coupled to ailerons, etc. I don't think
that's generally a good choice either.

3. The three-position FLAP switch just to the left of the display, but again,
it's probably too useful to tie up as a tow release. (Of course this all
depends upon how your plane's configured, but you haven't mentioned anything
about that yet.)

4. You could also use either the POT5 or POT6 potentiometer. I don't think
many people use those for any other purposes. I keep mine disabled. A
potentiometer would work if you don't mind rotating a knob to operate your
release.

If you decide that you want to use one of these options, please post here on
the list rather than by private email and we can talk about how to do it.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] At the Nats

2005-07-19 Thread miamimike
Cal Posthuma [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I will have 4 Dual Solenoid LED and Sound Assembled kits and 6 or more LED 
only Deluxe kits at the NATS

Look me up if you want one.

Cal Posthuma
LSF VV
Personal Web Page
http://www.altelco.net/~calplsf/index.html
Home of Solenoid LED's

What would really be cool for both of us is if you loan or donate sound - LED
units to be used on the winches during the competition.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] gliderworld1 - Poor salesmanship

2005-07-17 Thread miamimike
glide [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Posting on RCSE has little effect if any in remedying the situation.

It does make RCSE slightly more interesting though. Have you guys noticed
that there's haven't been very many interesting threads here lately?

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Jess 500 speed controller

2005-07-05 Thread miamimike
Jacob Bloom [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I am looking for an instruction manual for a JES 500 speed controller, can
anyone assist?

It's here: http://www.jetimodel.cz/eng/navody_en/jes_microproc_reg_eng.pdf

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] need advice for a altimeter

2005-07-04 Thread miamimike
D Hauch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

hi guys,
I'm looking for a altimeter that is small in size that will log my
max height.

How about an altimeter wrist watch? There are plenty of those around. Try a
Google search for altimeter watch.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=enq=altimeter+watch


Mike
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Re: [RCSE] MidSouth Champs Sucked..

2005-07-01 Thread miamimike
Steve Meyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I get joy out of Cliff jabbing Gordy.  Keep up those excellent posts 
Cliff.  :-)

Maybe we should all give it a try. We could have a sort of online contest.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] fiyah fiyah fiyah no just a mess

2005-06-21 Thread miamimike
Richard Hallett [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Anyone know whether the liquid (from an alkaline battery) is an acid or a base?

Well, considering that they're called alkaline, my guess would be a base.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR Service rocks

2005-06-18 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I did a dumb thing the other day and plugged the  wrong set of charge cables 
into my 9303 transmitter. I found out that this can  damage more than the 
fuse. 

I'd like to know how that's possible. The power switch ought to be a
double-throw type that switches the battery and fuse between the radio
circuitry and the charging jack, but always isolates the radio circuitry from
the charging jack. That's the way my Quattros and XP8103 radios appear to be
wired. Is the 9303 different? I wonder why.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Had a chance to test the Freq Checker with its Ext Antenna Tonite

2005-06-18 Thread miamimike
Chuck Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Another product that doesn't believe in center positive or signal and 
outside negative or ground.   When I made my temporary antenna for the 
Frequency Checker, I assumed that the plug was wired according to the over 
50 year old standard and connected it to the center.  No matter, it still 
increased the range from 200 feet to over 1000 feet.

Can someone with one of the new Hobbico antennas please check to see how it's
built? If you have a meter or continuity checker of some kind, test for
continuity from the antenna mast, first to the tip, then to the center ring,
and then to the ground of the stereo plug. Thanks.

As far as industry standards for using stereo earphone jacks as antenna
connectors, I wonder if there actually are any. It seems to me that there
would be mechanical difficulties in connecting the antenna mast to the tip of
the stereo plug and not to the ground. I think it would result in a weakness
at the joint.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Had a chance to test the Freq Checker with its Ext Antenna Tonite

2005-06-17 Thread miamimike
Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

It looks like the Hobbico antenna utilizes a stereo plug (2 conductors +
grd) While Mike's uses a mono plug (1 conductor + grd).

Inside the frequency checker there are two boards. One is a large LED dot
matrix display that includes the antenna jack on one side. The other is the
smaller rf board, which leaves enough room for the batteries to fit inside
the case. Here's a picture: http://www.vvsss.com/freq_checker/both_boards.jpg

The rf board has a single seven-inch antenna wire coming out of it that wraps
around the inside of the case and ends at the antenna jack on the dot matrix
board. With no external antenna plugged in, this seven-inch wire alone acts
as the antenna.

Now look at this picture: http://www.vvsss.com/freq_checker/matrix_back.jpg

This is the back of the dot matrix board, which has a PIC microcontroller
just above the antenna jack. You can also see the battery connectors.

Notice that the end of the antenna wire connects only to the ground or shield
terminal of the antenna connector, which appears to be a stereo jack. I was
unable to find any connection of the tip and center terminals of the jack to
any on the circuitry on the dot matrix board, nor did I expect to find any.
Those terminals are merely soldered to an isolated portion of the board to
help secure the jack in place.

The bottom line is that it doesn't make a bit of difference whether you use a
mono or stereo plug for your antenna because only the shield (ground)
terminal connects to anything inside the frequency checker. Whatever you plug
into the ground connection of that jack will act as an extension of the
existing seven-inch antenna wire.

Here's a cute animated GIF I made to show how fast the frequency checker
scans: http://www.vvsss.com/freq_checker/freq_checker.gif

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Had a chance to test the Freq Checker with its Ext Antenna Tonite

2005-06-16 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

What I found is that it (the Hobbico antenna) does virtually nothing for range.

How long is the Hobbico antenna? Tower Hobbies doesn't say.

My 28-inch homemade antenna makes a definite difference, and it really
doesn't look very different from the one in the Tower Hobbies picture.

Radio Shack Antenna:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLGproduct%5Fid=270-1405

Radio Shack Connector:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLGproduct%5Fid=274-328

My homemade antenna:
http://www.vvsss.com/freq_checker/antenna.jpg

The Hobbico antenna:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hcap0341.jpg

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Crystal Question

2005-06-14 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I bought a used plane complete with servos and reciever.  I need to change
out the crystal that's in the reciever to match my system and need some help
figuring out what I need.  The reciever does not have a label on it, so I
don't know the manufacturer.  It has a crystal with a grey plastic frequency
tag/cover on it.

Does the grey cover identify it as a single conversion?

Can I put a double conversion crystal in it?  Would that make a difference?

Please give me some advice on what to do!  Thanks!!

If you can't find anyone who can identify the receiver, see if you can take a
digital photo of it and post it on www.rcgroups.com in the Radios forum.
You'll almost certainly have it identified in less than an hour.

Or if you like, you can email me the photo and I'll post it there for you.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Crystal Question

2005-06-14 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

It has a crystal with a grey plastic frequency tag/cover on it.

By the way, that sounds very much like a JR crystal. Does it look like the
one in this picture from Horizon Hobby? (Note that the channel number label
was removed.) 

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/JRP/450/JRPXFR15-450.jpg

If that's it, you can browse the www.horizonhobby.com web site to find your
receiver and the type of crystal you'll need.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] WTB Dynaflite BOT ARF

2005-06-12 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I am looking for a DynaFlite BOT ARF kit.  Yes I know it can't be zoomed
off the winch, I am looking for something big for the high start.

They're only $139.99 now from Tower Hobbies. Personally, for that price I'd
just as soon get one directly from them. 

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXDUL9P=ML

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] This must be a very basic question about recievers

2005-06-09 Thread miamimike
ufferdamman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I am just getting into aileron planes and have a bunch of FMA m-5's 
sitting around.  Question: Can channel assignments be changed so I
can 
use this rx with a aileron wing?  If not what are the best
small/light 
8 channel rx's these days?  Berg's??  I am flying DLG's 

Channel assignments depend upon your transmitter, not your receiver. Nobody
can answer your first question unless they know what kind of radio you have.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] AMA sent me a DVD

2005-06-08 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I don't blame the Academy...

But I thought WE were the Academy.

The AMA represents itself as an association made up of its members. With that
in mind, you are in effect telling us, I don't blame us for sending
ourselves merchandize that we didn't ask for and then pressuring ourselves to
pay for that merchandize in order to raise money for ourselves.

But of course I'm being facetious. Your position makes much more sense if you
view the AMA the way many of us do: It's a business. It's an insurance
company that offers a unique type of insurance that we need, and so we're AMA
customers. And like most companies that have acquired our mailing addresses
for other purposes, they won't hesitate to send us unsolicited junk mail.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Servo reversing

2005-06-07 Thread miamimike
elcoba [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Hello all, 
Does anyone remember how to reverse a servo where you do not have the 
facility on the Tx. It has been so long since I last did this that I 
have totally forgotten. I do remember that two of the wires on the pot 
are to be interchanged, but which two?

The wires on the sides need to be swapped. The center wire (the wiper) should
stay where it is. If you have an ohmmeter you can make sure you've identified
the correct wires by ensuring that the resistance between them doesn't change
significantly as you rotate the potentiometer. If the resistance goes up and
down then one of those wires is the wiper.

The two connections to the motor have to be swapped as well.

   WIPER 
 |
 V  
A--/\/\/\/\/\/\/--B

  (Swap A and B.)

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] AMA sent me a DVD

2005-06-07 Thread miamimike
regis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

All in all it is good PR for AMA.

No, I don't think so. I've followed several online discussions about those
disks since they started sending them last December and have seen no evidence
that the resulting PR could reasonably be regarded as good.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305956
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=365689
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355443
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344361
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=341932
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2967139

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Retriever Line Question??

2005-06-05 Thread miamimike
Michael Lachowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Double Uni-knot works fine for Spectra.  Use the same knot for Monofilament.

Here are several web pages describing that knot, but be sure to have a bottle
of aspirin handy:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=enq=double+uni+knotbtnG=Google+Search

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Winch Kill Switch - A better idea?

2005-06-03 Thread miamimike
d. o. darnell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I haven't seen the whole thread but thought I'd contribute my humble rig.
See pix of my winch here. http://dozone.com/chopperwinch.htm

Very nice! I like that idea of a quick foot-operated kill switch.

You can now add a warning buzzer to go along with the LED circuit. It'll
automatically sound off if either of your solenoids gets stuck. My web page
has all the information you'll need to build one yourself, or you can get a
kit from Cal Posthuma. See the link below.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR Aerotow

2005-05-31 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Why try and pretend that a toy plane is the same as full scale anyway?

Right! Also, why call it a model? Most of the r/c gliders we fly are not
models of anything. They're not meant to imitate something larger, they're
merely meant to look cool and fly. Yet we miscall them models, forcing us to
adapt the inappropriate word scale as a substitute to fill the void created
because we misuse the word model.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] winged bike

2005-05-31 Thread miamimike
Do you mean this?

http://tinyurl.com/c32bs

Next time try http://tinyurl.com

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] winged bike

2005-05-31 Thread miamimike
Chuck Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Right out of Tom Swift.

I was thinking Leonardo da Vinci. I picture the patent examiner taking one
look at it, saying yeah, whatever, stamping it, and then grabbing the next
application in hope of finding something more serious to work on.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Airtronics Receiver help PCM??

2005-05-30 Thread miamimike
Lee Cox [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I have a Airtronics # 92965/72PCM receiver. On the out put pins there are two
white jumpers? the top one is marked N- the second one down is marked D=
?  Can some one explain to me what they are and how they can be used??

Here's something I found on RCGroups.com. I can't vouch for its accuracy but
I can vouch for Mr.RC-CAM. He knows his stuff:



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-30470
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30470

old_dude Feb 27, 2002, 06:11 PM

I just recently acquired an Airtronics 92965 PCM Rx that came with a TX I
wanted. The RX has end block connectors and has channels 1-6 numbered from
bottom going towards the top. The next block is B = battery ...no problem.
But then the last two connectors are marked D and N and have jumpers
??
What are these last two connectors for/ what do they do ???
Anybody know/ can help ???

Thanks

AMA 213751



Mr.RC-CAM
Feb 27, 2002, 10:59 PM

The N  D jumpers are installed if you use a 4.8V pack. Remove them if you
use a 6.0V pack.

Keep them installed and use it on 4.8V. This mode will provide low battery
detection (throttle wink once per minute). If you remove the jumpers, this
feature is disabled.



Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Hobbico Freq Checker Range Test

2005-05-29 Thread miamimike
Ben Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Today I had a chance to test out the range on a clubmate's Hobbico 
Frequency checker.

Thanks for the report. Unfortunately mine is consistently giving all sorts of
false indications no matter where I take it. It even shows channels in use at
night, inside a microwave oven with the door closed! It seems to especially
favor the lower channels such as 14 through 17.

At the field yesterday I had a chance to watch it and an RC Scan 7200 at the
same time, separated by several feet to prevent any cross-interference. With
no antenna, the Hobbico unit indicated several phantom signals that the RC
Scan 7200 didn't show, even with the RC Scan 7200's antenna extended and the
switch set to the most sensitive setting. The Hobbico unit did, however,
reliably show all of the channels that actually were in use at the field.

I guess I'll have to send mine back. From the reports I've read, I gather
that the Hobbico Frequency Checkers do generally work well, so I think I can
look forward to getting a good replacement or repair from Tower Hobbies.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Had a chance to do some range tests with the Freq Checker ..today!'

2005-05-27 Thread miamimike
Doug McLaren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Looking at the instructions, there's a picture of the antenna (the one
you can't buy yet.)  It clearly has three connectors on it the plug,
just like your stereo walkman headphones.

There's a single seven-inch wire coming out of the Hobbico Frequency
Checker's RF board that wraps around the inside of the case and ends at the
antenna jack, where it connects to the ground terminal of the jack. The side
and tip terminals of the jack connect to nothing. An earphone plugged into
the antenna jack should therefore extent the range, and in fact it does just
that for me and for a few other guys who post on RCGroups.com. Anything
touching the ground terminal of the antenna jack will act as an extension of
the seven inch internal antenna, so an external antenna length of about 32
inches would seem to be roughly correct, but probably not critical.

Personally, I'm afraid the unit might not have sufficient selectivity to
benefit from the maximum possible antenna gain. I suspect this would only
cause more false indications and render it useless. This might depend upon
the environment though. 

Here's a picture of an antenna that I built from Radio Shack parts that looks
about like the Hobbico unit that's not available yet:

http://www.vvsss.com/freq_checker/antenna.jpg

and here's an RCGroups.com post of mine listing the parts I used to make it:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3797447postcount=40 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Re: More on the Freq Checker Range tests

2005-05-26 Thread miamimike
Bill's Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

He lands. Checks his (synthesizer) module. You guessed it, he WAS on 39 and 
NOT 43.

Remember that discussion we had back in early April about the pitfalls of
synthesized radios? I wrote this in part:

With synthesized transmitters and receivers, it's very easy for flyers to
forget what channel they're on and to take a pin for one channel while
actually using another.

That prompted an immediate private mail from Gordy titled, The sky ain't.
Here's an excerpt:

Mike,
 
Be a leader, by being constuctive.  No one is served by the kind of post you 
just put out. I am sure you believe that ONLY you could have thought all 
that chicken little stuff up, not the other guys who have managed to have 
homes, 
jobs, even to figure out how to use radios.
 
If you want to keep some personal credibitly, let someone else post the  
negative 'truths'...

That email ultimately resulted in me kill-filing Gordy, but I can't help
wondering what he thinks about those synthesizer modules now. He'll probably
forget all about that and sing the praises of the frequency checker instead.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR gear on Ham band?

2005-05-26 Thread miamimike
Lex Mierop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

There is one misconception that keeps coming up about the 6 meter ham band.
The 6 meter band plan reserves the 50 MHz frequencies for aircraft use only.
The 53.x MHz frequencies are open to ground use as well as air.

I can't find any evidence of that. The AMA frequency plan at
http://www.modelaircraft.org/Comp/frequency.htm says that both the 50 and 53
MHz channels are For Model Aircraft and Surface Model Use. I also searched
through some of the online FCC rules but couldn't find anything there either.
I'm pretty sure Doug McLaren is right. Someone could be legally controlling
an r/c car, boat, or robot on your 50 Mhz channel.

Come to think of it, this came close to actually happening to me! An r/c
sailing club that uses a lake near our club's flying site hosted what they
called a regatta, and one of the prospective out-of-town participants was
on my 50 Mhz channel. Fortunately for me, he had to cancel his trip and the
conflict never happened.
   
Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR gear on Ham band?

2005-05-26 Thread miamimike
Doug McLaren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Also, nobody else can legally fly your plane if it uses the ham bands,
unless they're also a ham operator.  I don't think you can even use a
buddy box unless both people are hams.  (I think the law specifically
prohibits third party traffic with R/C on the ham bands.)

The way I see it, it's not third-party traffic, it's you being the control
operator. I believe it's perfectly legal so long as you're there watching,
and if someone is flying your plane then you almost certainly will be.
(It IS a handy excuse to say no you can't fly my plane though.)

I always have mixed emotions when someone asks if they should get ham gear. I
think it's a great idea if you have a license, but I also don't want to spoil
a good thing for those of us who already use those frequencies. Ideally I'd
like to see 50 MHz gear be just popular enough to remain in production and
readily available at good prices, but no more popular than that!

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR gear on Ham band?

2005-05-26 Thread miamimike
I'm in doubt about a couple of claims that were made here about FCC rules
concerning 6 meter r/c radios:

1. Lex Mierop says that 50 Mhz can only be used for aircraft, not cars,
boats, or robots. 

2. Chuck Anderson says that you can't allow someone to use your 6 meter r/c
radio while you supervise as control operator.

Can anyone find any evidence on the Web confirming either of these alleged
rules? I searched through FCC Part 97 and couldn't find a thing. 

http://www.arrl.org/FandES/field/regulations/news/part97/

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Re: More on the Freq Checker Range tests

2005-05-24 Thread miamimike
Heather Rose [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Hi Gordy -
Thanks for sharing these comments with me ...

Is it possible you were using bad batteries?  Otherwise, I would guess
you were in a REALLY bad Rf environment!   

I'm estimating your 100 paces at about 100 or so feet, right?

Our product manager helped do the QC testing on the first shipment of
these, and with multiple units was able to get over 200 feet with every
single unit WITHOUT the external antenna.  A couple went up to the 300
ft max range, others had a max range of around 230-270 feet.  (With
antenna, we easily got over 800 feet and close to 1000 ft)

I just got mine today and haven't been able to test it at a flying field yet,
but I'm looking at it right now in my living room and getting indications of
from 10 to 15 randomly changing channels in use at a time. That's a bit
surprising at 10:45 PM with no flying fields within miles. It seems to have a
special bias toward channels 15 and 16, as it kept them constantly lit, even
with no antenna, while sitting on my dashboard as I drove across town.

I hope this thing works better outside in an open field.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Don't you dare buy a Freq Checker cuz its a let down! :-)

2005-05-24 Thread miamimike
Dan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

So Gordy - what do you REALLY think about it?

Gordy says, I thought this device sounded great at first, but it doesn't
sound very useful at this point. (Or maybe he was quoting someone else. His
posts are hard to read.)

But anyway, he could be right. I just got mine today and I'm beginning to
think the same thing because I'm getting all sorts of false indications.

I don't question the usefulness of a frequency checker. After all, I did buy
one. I'm just a little skeptical about this particular unit at the moment. I
hope it works better outside at a flying field than it's working right now. 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Buying batteries

2005-05-23 Thread miamimike
Jim Laurel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

...

Of course, on RES planes, I think AA packs are just fine and use them myself,
especially with analog servos.

My short list of high quality cells are ones like the GP2200s, GP1100s,
KAN1050s, Sanyo CP1700s, etc...

Yes, I agree that you should always choose cells of the appropriate size,
capacity, and current capability for your application. That's obvious. But
what does that have to do with quality? Does a C-size cell have higher
quality than a AAA-size cell? No! It's just a bigger battery.

Anyway, thanks for changing your position on this. Your original post implied
that a set of AA cells bought at WalMart might fail during a flight while a
AA pack bought from battlepacks.com wouldn't. I think what you're telling us
now is that if WalMart carries the size and type of cells that you need, it's
safe to buy them there.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Had a chance to try the Freq Checker this weekend

2005-05-22 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Since the external antenna is back ordered, I only had the unit itself.

The advertised range is 'up to 300 feet' but in fact that is an accurate 
statement...it is 'possible' for it to work at that but everything has  to be 
just right.  

Its real range is about 50' on the field with cars, tents, trees in its 
line of sight.

It sounds to me like the antenna isn't particularly complicated. You can
probably improvise your own. Try this advice from KillerWatt of
RCGroups.com:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3783493postcount=29

btw..A 1/8 inch stereo-to-stereo right angle audio adapter, when
plugged into the scanner's external socket, and the exposed ground-shield
held in contact to your turned-off TX's extended antenna makes a dandy
pick-up range extender.I found the adapter (# 274-372) at local
RadioShack store kw

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] AVA center of gravity

2005-05-22 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I get can't get in to the assembly instructions on the Kennedy Composites 
website to access the AVA center of gravity.

Does anyone care to share the AVA C of G with us this evening ?

400 mm or 4 inches. It downloaded okay for me.

http://www.kennedycomposites.com/instructions/ava-v2.7.pdf

6 6/30/2004
Tips
Tow hook can be located back from nose 18-1/8 for aggressive
launching. This measurement is to rear side of tow hook. For initial
launches move adjustable tow hook  forward. When you are
comfortable launching at this point, move tow hook rearward to fit
your flying style.
To set up decalage, mount center wing section and stabilizer. Hold
model from the rear and set the imaginary line that goes through
trailing edge and leading edge of stabilizer parallel with bottom of
wing.
Cant the elevator servo arm forward 15 degrees for more up elevator
control throw.
Suggested balance, control throws and mixer
Balance: 400 mm or ~ 4 from leading edge of wing
Rudder throw: + / - 2 each way.
Elevator throw: +   -  
Spoiler: 7/8 up measured at trailing edge of spoiler
Elevator mix: Up elevator to spoiler 70 % mix.
Decalage: Align centerline of stabilizer parallel with bottom of wing.
Kennedy Composites 2004

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] AVA center of gravity

2005-05-22 Thread miamimike
Bill's Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Better double check that. 400 millimeters is 15.75 inches

4 inches is 101.6 mm

Good catch! I just copied and pasted the text without paying attention.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Buying batteries

2005-05-22 Thread miamimike
Jim Laurel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

As to you guys who are buying cheap Wal-Mart batteries to put into your 
sailplanes, what are you thinking?  Why take a chance on ruining an 
expensive sailplane with anything less than the absolute best?  And for 
what, so you can save a few dollars?  That's crazy.  Use the very 
highest quality batteries you can find, built into the very best packs 
by the very best builders, and thus minimize the potential for failure.

WalMart sells Energizer 2300+ MAH AA cells, which are what I use in all my
sailplanes, although I do avoid buying mine from WalMart. It really makes no
difference where you buy them aside from the price and your feelings about
the store itself. You'll get the same batteries regardless.

As for building a four- or five-cell pack, it's not rocket science. In fact,
it's nothing compared to setting up even an ARF model plane. Most of us have
the appropriate skills and tools. 

But here's what I want to know: How do you go about identifying the very
highest quality batteries? What particular brand of battery do you have in
mind that you know to be of higher quality and dependability than the
Energizers sold at WalMart, and how do you know this?

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] GADGET FOR SALE

2005-05-20 Thread miamimike
David Schat [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Radio control rocket engine ignition unit on eBay at 
http://tinyurl.com/9ehhf starting at $20.

Light a rocket motor on your model from your transmitter.

Ouch! In this new age of irrational fear, something like that seems likely to
cause us serious problems if the Department of Homeland Hysteria learns of
it. It would probably be better for our hobby if this gadget didn't exist.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Still for sale

2005-05-19 Thread miamimike
Howard Mark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Sport winch - F3B legal  - works great - price reduced with battery  line $300
See @ http://msh-co.com/ForSale/Winch/

What are those four black and white halfpipe-shaped things?

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Still for sale

2005-05-19 Thread miamimike
Thanks for the responses, guys. The private response I got from Brian Smith
came just three minutes after I sent the question, which I thought was pretty
remarkable.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] OVSS and Line Breaks

2005-05-18 Thread miamimike
John [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

The real question is equality of launch height. If you went to a contest and
two of the 4 winches had 400 ft. more line you would not think it was fair.
I can hear the screaming now that with the longer line winches they get a
launch height advantage. On the other hand if you buy a moldy or Kevlar wrap
your spar and get a 400 ft. launch advantage it ok. I guess its just human
nature to think that way but it sure makes no sense.

You're right, but it seems to me that all of these types of contests are
designed to be as practical and fair as reasonably possible with the limited
technology that we have to work with. If there was a way to accurately
measure altitude and/or speed, or to drop all the gliders from a tall tower
at predetermined times, then the competition could be more fair, and more
interesting rules could be put into play. As it is, I tend to think of these
contests merely as fun get-togethers.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] GreatPlanes Triton charger

2005-05-18 Thread miamimike
I like my Triton too, but in addition to the things that Doug McLaren listed,
I'd like to add:

(1) I don't like the banana plug connections for your charging adaptors. If
you happen to unplug those from the charger before disconnecting your battery
from the other end of the adaptor, you run the risk of touching the banana
plugs together and shorting out your battery. They should have chosen a safer
type of connector.

(2) If you disconnect your battery early without stopping your charger first,
and you then short out the male pins of your adaptor's output (usually a male
Dean's Ultra connector) on some metal (such as a car hood), you risk damaging
the charger beyond repair. There have been some reports on RCGroups.com of
this happening.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] FS: NCFM M60 after IHLGF

2005-05-17 Thread miamimike
Peter Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

  I have a NCFM M60 slope plane that's not going to get flown much
here in Florida (yes, there are slope sites here.  No, this isn't the
right plane for them.)

I found a web page about it here:

http://www.northcountyflyingmachines.com/M60.htm

It looks ideal for our slope in Pompano Beach, and I'm looking for something
to take along to Hood River, Oregon this summer.

How much, and where in Florida are you located?

Mike

http://www.phflyers.com
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Re: [RCSE] Soaring and Birds

2005-05-14 Thread miamimike
Steve Meyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I witnessed some very interesting soaring birds on my recent vacation to 
Cancun.  These birds never flapped unless they were chasing a sea 
gull.  They reminded me of the Bid Bird sailplane,  I guess the original 
designer decided to copy these birds.

Anyone know the name of these birds?

They're called frigate birds or man-o-war birds. We see them here in Miami
over the ocean and especially in the Florida Keys, and come to think of it,
their wings do remind you a little of a Bird of Time.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=enq=frigate+bird

http://www.google.com/search?hl=enlr=q=man-o-war+bird

They wait for other birds to catch fish, then harass those birds until they
drop their catch, and then steal it for themselves. What a way to make a
living! They can really soar with those huge wings though.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] FW: Mark Your Calendar

2005-05-10 Thread miamimike
mark browning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

  Slap Your Co-Worker Day is Coming!!

How did this get on the RCSE list? Garbage like this certainly doesn't belong
here.
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Re: [RCSE] FW: Mark Your Calendar

2005-05-10 Thread miamimike
Lex Mierop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Anyone directly subscribed to the list can post without moderation.  When
they make mistakes like this, peer pressure should take care of it. (private
e-mails to the sender).  On the list itself it is better off ignored...

Actually, I'd say the exact opposite is true. To not comment publicly about
such an offense would only spread the impression to others that it's accepted
behavior. Matters like this definitely need to be brought out in the open for
public discussion.

On the other hand, private emails tend to brand you as the self-appointed
list police, and as Pat McCleave wrote, people might start calling you
Gordy. I had to killfile Gordy for his hostile private emails, and I
certainly wouldn't want others to killfile me for the same reason.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] What is a JR REVERSE Servo?

2005-05-09 Thread miamimike
Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

On the JR/Horizon Web site many of the servos are listed as REVERSE servos,
e.g. DS3301 Digital Wing Servo [JRPSDS3301] and Reverse DS3301 Servo
[JRPSDS3301R].  What are reverse servos?  How do they differ from standard
servos?

If you install a regular servo for one of your flaps and a reverse servo for
the other flap, and you install them in a symmetrical fashion with both
shafts pointing either outward or inward, then you can connect them with a
y-harness and control both flaps through a single receiver channel. They'll
go up and down together.

If you try this with two regular servos, they'll behave like ailerons and
move in opposite directions.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Hitec Supreme 8 channels

2005-05-06 Thread miamimike
Len Revelle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

No instructions to be found. Can someone give me a listing of the 
channel numbers (as labeled) vs their function on the Hitec Supreme 8? 
I'm gonna use this in the 100 wing and need rt/left aileron and rt/left 
flap channels.

That depends upon your radio, not your receiver. They have versions of the
Supreme 8 for Futaba, Hitec, and JR/Airtronics radios, and the channel
assignments are different according to which one of those radios you have.
You need to consult the manual for your radio.

Here's a page on the Hitec web site that might help you out a little:

http://www.hitecrcd.com/Receivers/supremeairRX.htm

For what it's worth, if you have a Hitec radio the FAQ on that page says
this:

Q. What are the channel assignments?
A. Channel assignments are set by the transmitter being used. In the case of
Hitec, channel 1 is ailerons, channel 2 is elevator, channel 3 is throttle
and channel 4 is rudder.

Sorry, but for some reason they stop at channel 4, so I know that's not very
helpful. There's also a link on that page to the manual in PDF format, but
there's not much to it:

http://www.hitecrcd.com/bg/BlueMnaulFaq.gif

Good luck!

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Stylus/JR 770 RX No Workie

2005-05-02 Thread miamimike
Michael Conte [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

All,

I just bought two JR 770 PCM rxs and I can't get them to work with my 
Stylus.  I know the crystals, battery, and servos are all good.  I've 
tried the different modulations on the Stylus with no luck (PCM, PPM, 
PPM-INV).  I've tried both rxs with no luck.  So now I have 2 rxs that 
I can't get to work.  Can anyone out there think of anything I'm 
missing?  Is there anyone else using this combo with success.

Nope. Like Brian Smith said, it's not going to work. JR PCM receivers need JR
PCM transmitters, and vice versa.

As far as I know, all radio brands are like that. If you want to use PCM,
you'll need Airtronics PCM receivers.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] RE: JR Radio base loaded whip antenna compatible with 6 meter?

2005-05-01 Thread miamimike
Kent Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Smiley Antenna makes a 50 MHZ, 72 Mhz, and 75 Mhz Rubber Duckey antennas.
$25.00 each includes adapter.

http://www.smileyantenna.com/index.php?cPath=33

Notice that all three have the same model number. That's because they're
actually one and the same product. See this RCGroups.com post from ebill3:



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3324033postcount=23

I asked Smiley if the 50, 72, and 75 Mhz ducks were all the same. The email
response was:
YES, WE JUST SEPERATE (sic) THEM FOR OUR CUSTOMERS. FOR ORDERING PURPOSES.

Makes sense - the whip antennas are the same for 50 and 72.

Bill



For ordering purposes? Hmm...

Anyway, that suggests that the 72 MHz JRPA155 whip antenna from JR might also
work on 50 MHz. Still, we won't know for sure until someone does some tests
and reports back.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] JR Radio base loaded whip antenna compatible with 6 meter?

2005-04-30 Thread miamimike
glide [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Would anyone in the group know if the JR base loaded whip antenna would work
with six meter frequencies?  I've got a 9303 but I've always been used to
using a more compact rubber duck antenna on my transmitters.  I would want
to get the JR whip antenna but would want to confirm that it will be
compatible with six meters.

I looked it up on the Horizon Hobby website. The part number is JRPA155 and
the page is here: 

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=JRPA155

The description says 72 MHz, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they
won't work on 50 MHz. After all, the stock telescoping antennas are
interchangeable between 72 MHz and 50 MHz radios, so why wouldn't these base
loaded antennas be interchangeable too? Right? (Maybe, maybe not.) $42.46
seems like a lot of money for one though, even if they do work okay.

I hope someone else here knows the answer.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Full house newbie question

2005-04-25 Thread miamimike
pchiu92677 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I need some help figuring out how many channels I need for my first 
full house sloper.  I read somewhere that 7 channels is minimum.  I 
have a JR8103 radio and trying to setup for a Mclean Vindicator.  

I looked up the McLean Vindicator and it doesn't look like a full-house
glider to me, but if you say yours has flaps then I'll take your word for it.
An XP8103 and a seven-channel R700 or R770 receiver will work fine.

Channel 1 output on your receiver won't have anything plugged into it, but
you can put crow (butterfly), spoilerons, or flaps on your throttle stick. If
you had spoilers like on an RES plane, the servos would connect there.

Channel 2 will be your right aileron.

Channel 3 will be your elevator, or in your case, half or all of your v-tail.

Channel 4 will be your rudder, or the other half of your v-tail if you use
two v-tail servos.

Channel 5 will be your left aileron.

Channel 6 will be your left flap.

Channel 7 will be your right flap.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Blaster

2005-04-23 Thread miamimike
George Joy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Can someone tell me where I can get some information on the (Blaster) 
assembly? 

Here are some RCGroups.com threads:

Blaster Build Thread, 180 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232326

(Sorry, I don't know what happened to #2.)

Blaster Build Thread #3, 92 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266825

Blaster Build Thread #4 and #5, 57 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271767

Blaster DLG. GO or NO GO?, 133 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319316

My Balster (sic) is here!!!, 104 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238044

Blaster Problem, 33 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349527

Who's received their Blaster lately?, 44 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=342684

Blaster Owners Please Help!, 49 replies,
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322669

There are many more threads with fewer replies. If you have an RCGroups.com
account, try a search for blaster in the Handlaunch forum. (The search
feature doesn't appear unless you're logged on.)

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-21 Thread miamimike
Doug McLaren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Actually, the Triton can charge through a diode.  It can't discharge
(which makes sense), but it can charge.

I don't know why you're saying that, but you're wrong. In normal operation
the Triton stops charging for a few seconds each minute in order to sense the
battery voltage and monitor the progress of the charge. With a diode in the
circuit, the battery voltage doesn't appear at the charging jack, causing the
test to fail immediately. 

(See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1081041postcount=1 )

In fact, a Triton won't even start charging in the first place if it doesn't
first detect the voltage from a battery on its output. With a diode in the
circuit, the Triton would only return a no batt error message. Also, even
if the charger could somehow be rigged into charging anyway, the forward
voltage drop across the diode would confuse the smart charging circuitry and
give unwanted results.

It's very well known that peak chargers can't be used to charge radios
through their charging jacks unless any safety charging diodes in the radio
are bypassed. You'll find it in virtually any general FAQ about our hobby.

Everything else you wrote is pretty much the same as what I wrote earlier.
It's good advice.

Well, if there's no diode, or a fuse didn't blow, then he almost
certainly reverse charged his pack.  Exactly how much depends on how
full the batteries were when he started, and how long the charger was
on ...

The batteries were probably damaged at least somewhat, but it may not
be enough to worry about (mostly the damage would manifest as reduced
capacity.)  I'd strongly suggest at least running them through a
cycler a few times and make sure they're still OK.  If the capacity is
down more than 10 or 20% from the original capacity -- replace them.

Some people are down on NiMH cells for receiver packs, as they don't
stand up to abuse as well, and have higher internal resistances, and
there is truth to all that, but for transmitter packs they're perfect.
And even if you pay full retail Wal-Mart price, 8 2000+ mAh NiMH AA
cells will only cost about $20 -- cheap insurance, and you'll probably
get a pack that will last all day.  (Assuming you can make your own
packs, of course.)

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-21 Thread miamimike
Doug McLaren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I do it all the time, and here's some pictures of me
doing it :

   http://mclaren.frenzy.com/~dougmc/RC/triton-charging-through-diode/

That's a pretty convincing argument you've put together, and you went to a
lot of trouble to do it. Very interesting! Since I only have JR radios
without diodes, I have to admit that I've never had either the opportunity or
the skepticism to try this myself. I was going on common sense and what I've
read everywhere. If you're right then a whole lot of other people are wrong. 

Here are some examples of what might very well turn out to be misinformation:

http://www.siriuselectronics.com/index.php?main_page=faq

Q:  My SIRIUS CHARGE will not work with my Futaba transmitter. Why?
 
A: There is a diode in the charging circuit of most Futaba FM and PCM
transmitters (Futaba AM transmitters do not have a diode). This diode
prevents SIRIUS CHARGE from detecting the transmitter battery and turning
itself on. The diode is very easy to defeat, and will not affect operation of
the transmitter. If you would like to see how to do it, click here. 

By the way, BEWARE of fast chargers that claim to work through a diode. It
is impossible to do proper peak detection through a diode, due to the diode
voltage drop changing drastically with temperature and current. Your
batteries are at risk!

It also seems to be the standard wisdom on RCGroups.com. Here are a few posts
from folks who treat it as granted:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=348#post348
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2776789postcount=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2774006postcount=2
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2486560postcount=12
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2180279postcount=8
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1872963postcount=8
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1872901postcount=6
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1519150postcount=5
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1404739postcount=2
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1189196postcount=7
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=972157postcount=11


I wanted to ditch the transmitters entirely for the picture, and show
you a picture of a diode and a battery pack being charged through it,
but couldn't find an appropriate diode.  Maybe later, if I can find
one in my stuff.

Maybe I'll try the same experiment tomorrow. I have some diodes at work.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Hobbico Frequency Checkers

2005-04-21 Thread miamimike
Paul Emerson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

You know what would be cool - if you took one apart and integrated it
into your club's freq board, so each board slot would have it's own
LED light indicating if it was open or not (but do NOT use it as a
subtitiute for putting your card/pin up there). Shouldn't be too hard
to wire that up, and cheap too.

You could also integrate the antenna (or a custom long range antenna)
and a solar power source on top of your freq board and have it always
be on.

That's a great idea, and I'll probably build one myself! Unfortunately they
don't expect the scanners until mid-May.

They're meant to run on 3 AAA alkaline cells, so a common four-cell
rechargeable receiver pack will probably work fine for the frequency board
project.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] new John Deere airfoil

2005-04-21 Thread miamimike
Charles Frey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Coutesy of another mailing list:

High Flying Lawnmower -
http://www.3d-nut.com/videos/skycutter40.wmv

I hope this hasn't made the rounds here already, sorry it has.

The Sky Cutter kit is sold by http://flyingthingz.com/ for $89.99. They also
have a flying witch, race car, tank, and American flag.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-21 Thread miamimike
George Joy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

The info on our web site is accurate!

So you're saying that Doug McLaren's batteries are at risk?

By the way, BEWARE of fast chargers that claim to work through a diode. It
is impossible to do proper peak detection through a diode, due to the diode
voltage drop changing drastically with temperature and current. Your
batteries are at risk! 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-20 Thread miamimike
Scobie Puchtler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

I seem to remember from my days of wiring various other chargers that the
wall charger polarity on a Hitec and JR chargers might be opposite. 

That's right, they are. The JR charging plug has the negative connection on
the tip and the positive connection on the side.
 
Any reason to expect that I've done any damage to the battery?

Yes. If you've discharged any or all of the cells and then charged them in
reverse, they're likely to be permanently damaged. If so, after a normal
charge they could appear to be okay but will quickly go dead when used.

Anything I should be doing or checking?

You need to cycle the pack with a smart charger, such as a Triton, and see
how many MAH the pack can now store. If it's significantly less than the
pack's rating, which I believe is 600 MAH, then you'll need to replace the
pack. Alternately, you can just give the pack up for dead and replace it,
just to be safe.

There are differing opinions among the guys here concerning NiCd vs. NiMh
cells, but my own recommendation is to buy two four-packs of Energizer 2300
or 2500 MAH cells from a local department store, cut the wire harness from
your old NiCd pack before recycling it (cut only one wire at a time), and
build a new pack. You can charge it with the same charger you've been using,
but of course it'll take longer because of the increased capacity.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-20 Thread miamimike
Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

If you pluged in a charger from a different brand
(with reversed polarity) into the radio it will short
out the fuse in the TX.  You will have to replace the
fuse.

You'd think so, but apparently not because he already said his radio is okay:

I already put the 'correctly charged' battery in the TX that was on the Hitec
charger and everything works fine.

He'd be better off if the fuse had blown, but it sounds to me like the fuse
held, the battery charger reverse-charged his pack, and probably ruined it.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-20 Thread miamimike
Richard Hallett [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Most radios and modern equipment have a diode in them just for this 
accident.

JR radios for USA use don't. I often charge the batteries in my JR radios
through the charging jacks with my Triton charger. Peak chargers like the
Triton can't work with diodes in the circuit.

I also once made the same mistake that Scobie made and plugged the wrong
trickle charger into one of my JR radios. In my case the fuse blew right away
and aside from that, no harm was done.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2933069postcount=7

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Re: [RCSE] battery choices

2005-04-17 Thread miamimike
I've found that the best and most convenient choice for AA receiver packs are
the Energizer 2300 or 2500 MAH NiMh cells available from local department
stores for around $10 per four-pack. I use them in all my sailplanes and
radios and have never had a pack come close to reaching a discharged state.
(And that's even after a long and extremely enjoyable day of slope soaring on
the east coast of Florida, such as our club had yesterday.) 

It's time to face the fact that NiCd cells are now essentially obsolete. They
may have had some advantages over the early NiMh cells, but modern cells are
available with equal or lower internal resistances, at least equal
dependability and lifetimes, and much greater capacity. 

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Re: 51 MHz base loaded antenna for 9303

2005-04-16 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

Hmmm. I wonder how Gordy would feel if he were to be told not to talk about
whatever he wished to.

That sounds familiar. I wonder how many others have received his hostile
private emails.

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Re: [RCSE] one thing I have learned about those cool mini electric helis

2005-04-16 Thread miamimike
How bizarre. Earlier this afternoon, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

99% of the guys signed up to the RCSE to talk about RC soaring,
sailplanes, and buying and selling them.  So why not give up and join in?

And now this.
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Re: [RCSE] PCM failsafe - which position?

2005-04-10 Thread miamimike
What I'd like to see is a provision in PCM radios to easily lock in your
failsafe settings while you're flying. That way you might be able to
experimentally find a set of control positions that seem like they will land
your model in the least destructive manner, and then just hold the sticks and
press a button to save them to the failsafe memory. 

My JR XP8103 won't do this. You have to guess what the best control positions
are while the model is on the ground. I wonder if any other radios will.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] Barry Kennedy Vrs Others..a personal experience

2005-04-09 Thread miamimike
I have no interest in this dispute, but Jack Womack wrote:

I'll second that. sick (sic) 'em, Chuck...

(Get it? It's a double meaning! Look up the two definitions of sic.)

The AMA numbers verify at http://www.modelaircraft.org/MembershipQuery.aspx
but I can't find any public message where Chuck Anderson or anyone else wrote
such a thing in the first place. Was it in a private email?

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] An R/C Probability Brain Teaser

2005-04-08 Thread miamimike
Doug McLauren wrote:

What is it with people taking private emails and replying to them to
the list?

Sorry, but if you leave the [RCSE] subject unchanged, my email program will
list it along with all the other RCSE emails as a part of the relevant
thread. That's one reason the [RCSE] is there. I'm not about to carefully
examine the headers of each RCSE email that I receive.

There was no reason for me to expect it anyway. Except for certain special
cases, it's rude to reply with a private email when responding to a public
discussion. Please keep your comments on the list so that we can all share,
and don't impose on someone's limited time by expecting them to type out a
special reply just for you to read.

While I'm on the subject, it's especially rude if you want to argue about
something. I already had to killfile one guy here who started sending me hate
mail recently because I presented an opposing view to his. He wrote in
essence that he was entitled to his opinion but I was not. His irrational
position would never have been viewed as acceptable by other readers here,
but he avoided that problem by emailing me privately.

A public disagreement is a debate, a private disagreement is an argument, and
I very much prefer debate.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] An R/C Probability Brain Teaser

2005-04-07 Thread miamimike
Tuan Le wrote:

I agree that it takes 9 to get 51%, but at 22 I only got 97.58% is my
math off?

Yes. The figure of 99.58% given by Charles Frey is correct. More precisely,
it's about 99.5815978%.

Doug McLaren's figure of 51% for nine people is also off. The correct figure
is about 53.4504048%. The answer of nine people is correct though, since the
probability for eight people is about 44.5838152%.

Mike
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Re: [RCSE] An R/C Probability Brain Teaser

2005-04-07 Thread miamimike
Doug McLauren wrote:

Still, it's time for the thread to die.

Guess again. Now that we've established that with 50 channels, only eight
people can show up before there's a better than 50:50 chance of a frequency
conflict, let's imagine how it would be if we got awarded 50 more R/C
aircraft channels for a total of 100.

Of course there would be a bias at the beginning, but once usage came to be
spread out evenly and randomly among those 100 channels, how many people
could then show up at a field before probability favored a conflict?

Before working it out, take a guess at what the new answer will be. You might
be surprised.

Mike
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