Ah not to worry. Elecraft rigs aren't like computers where they're shipped to
you completely broken and you're wasting the better part of a week trying to
get it into a usable state.
All you'll really have to do is plug it all in and turn it on, and you're
ready to go. They do a superb job with
Besides the parts access issues, another consideration is keeping it
buildable. If the K2 were to be updated any further, it might go out of
reach as a buildable-by-mortal-hams kit with discrete components. In fact,
there are compromises in the rig already to keep it easy to build, I'm
thinking
Yeah, that's kind of how I've always thought of it, a "user is responsible
for debouncing" type of thing.
Especially the Dah paddle and my Kent straight key, when bouncing, may not
be indistinguishable from a straight key going 100wpm as far as the rig is
concerned LOL.
So I never really thought
I imagine it's because of the QRQ support that it doesn't have dedicated
debouncing circuitry for straight keys, but I'm not sure about that. The K2
does have some small caps across the key input, but it too still gives me
slight problems when I key it with my straight key. Though it's not as bad
Yes, both my K3 and a K3s do this when I key them with my bugs or with my
straight key. Even my K2's will behave strangely, though not quite as bad as
the K3 and s. It's not a problem with the rig; it's just a contact bounce
issue, so you'll just need a debouncing circuit. Either an external keyer
It would be the graphic in figure 12 on page 15 of the instructions. It hooks
up with just one tmp cable and the long one isn't used.
It all looked like spaghetti to me too when I did the upgrade on my K3, but
that's the figure that shows the hookup for no 2 meter module and no 2nd
RX.
73,
I've built 2 K2's; it's not too hard to build but there are difficult spots:
- grounding the crystal cans (save the anti-static pads that the IC's ship
on!).
- installing/soldering the LCD to the front panel board (issue with spacers)
- installing/soldering L33
- clearance issue between L33 and
Yep, the NB icon is supposed to flash if the setting is overly aggressive.
I've seen mine do this on very rare occasions on my K3 when I had it set to
the very highest settings (both regular and DSP), though I've only seen it
once or twice.
So it's probably working. In fact, on just the right
If you're getting the big yellow bang by the device in "device mangler", that
points more to a failure in the driver for the USB device in the machine, or
a problem with the device itself inside the box. The plug could be marginal
after heavy use, or the driver may be corrupt, or the USB hub could
Oh it's a shack... I thought it was the new rig. I've been wondering all day
how I was going to fit that into my pelican case.
73,
LS
W5QD
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It could be a bad solder joint. Because of the way the LCD is mounted, the
display pins practically "float" a bit above the pads on the board and you
have to kind of "bridge" them when soldering by building up a kind of blob
of solder. If the pin(s) are too high or the little solder "ant hill"
Maybe it's more an in-the-eye-of-the-beholder sort of thing then lol.
My first rule of antennas is "put up what stays up, and stays up every
time". That of course, is my /P influence talking, so the rules are a little
different for me:
- The Buddipole may just look nicely packaged, but in
Well, you get what you pay for is about all I can say there. The Buddipole is
so well thought out and constructed you don't have to replace half of it
with upgrades as soon as you buy it, like some of the cheaper alternatives I
looked at. You're basically done with the credit card the first time
Congrats! And on the Buddipole, I'd suggest ordering a set of the long
telescoping whips (the near-10 footers) and just getting that overwith now,
if you don't have them already. The stock short whips work ok on 15 meters
and up, but on 20 meters tuning gets very very sensitive and narrow-banded.
Well I do have to say, though, that my "K3 plus" and K3s both are very
respectable /p rigs, though. Both are the 10 watt versions and will actually
run for a couple hours pretty well on even a 9AH AGM battery.
Yeah, a solar panel or a larger batt would be required for longer than that
or a lot of
I think the 7300 could intrude against the KX3 in the "base station
replacement" market, though. It's obviously an important enough market, in
fact, that Elecraft developed the KXPA100 with built-in tuner to augment the
KX3's attractiveness in that particular scenario. So I think the 7300 could
Yes, quite true. But it is a little hilarious that the only other Icom rig
above its own 7300 in the Sherwood chart costs 13 grand At least in the
fairly narrow comparison domain of RX dynamic range anyway; to me that's
just kind of funny that their high end rigs are outperformed by their own
Wow, looks like Icom finally made a radio with performance close to the
humble K3S and K3 + new synth but also looks like you really got to pay
'em for finally doing it, at nearly 13 grand for the 7851!
But the 7300 looks actually pretty decent performance-wise, so interesting
surprise at
Yes, I use the scan function on both my K2's and my K3 and K3S. Next best
thing to a panadapter available.
One thing I have noticed about it on my K2 (and probably the K3 also), is it
has two lengths of pauses - one which is just a few seconds and another
about 30 secs or so. But which length of
Agreed, though on my most recent K2, it was close enough to actually change
the BFO freq slightly even after releasing the pressure of my hand on the
cover, etc., when I picked it up and moved it around.
Course we're talking, like, fractions of a millimeter almost lol. I think
just the small warp
Hi all,
Here's an interesting finding, though I apologize if this is already in the
past archives.
No matter how careful you are when installing L33 on the bottom of the
board, it's so close to the bottom cover that any movement of it, say when
you're picking up the rig or manipulating the bale,
I agree with Don, the K2 should be brick-on-key at 5 watts at least. On m 12V
batteries, mine are almost that way at full power, the heat sink at the
bottom definitely gets warm but seems to go forever without getting hot.
On a regulated PS, though, that doesn't drop into the 11v range like my
Hi all,
Here's another teachable moment for me lol. On P54 of the K2 manual, there's
an instruction to record the value written on the crystal filter package. It
says that this measured freq can later be used to align the filters.
I humbly admit that after a few years of being a K2 builder/owner
Yes, like I said, I dodged a bullet on this build for sure, hi hi. Here are
two pics of the completed board, the bandpass filter relays is where I did
all the damage but fortunately now it's not even visible and it all seems to
be working. And the toroids came out better in this build than my
In case anyone's interested, I just completed my erstwhile dead K2 and it
appears to be in good health on all bands after the final alignment.
Whew... I dodged a bullet on this one lol
The transmitter came out particularly good, ranging from about 11 to 12
watts max on 10M up to around 14W
I researched this at one point also, and I believe you can't have them in
there at the same time. There's not room for the KAT2 and the KPA100 both in
the same top cover and I don't believe it'll even work electrically.
So you're pretty much stuck with one or the other and an external tuner in
Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on.
My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn
I might take another look at it this evening. I burned up yet another relay
replacing the first one so I'll have to extract it too. I could rob a relay
out of my KAT2 kit (which I think uses the same type) for that and just
order replacements in the meanwhile.
So I might be able to continue
Very cool, I want one!
As for wireless, I would share the concern that has been expressed about
batteries and additional electronics everywhere. In fact, it's for that very
reason that I've virtually eliminated wireless mice, keyboards and other
accessories in all of my computer operations and
Hi Wayne,
Ah, ok, well... let me take another look, then. This is in the bandpass
filter so didn't know how critical this was...
Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD
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Hi Wayne,
Well it's totally my fault for not using the right tools for this lol. I'll
take a look at the pain in the rear/loss ratio after I cheer up a bit and
then think about sending it to Don. In the end that may be the more sensible
thing to do, maybe after getting some sleep lol.
Tnx es 73,
Just in case anyone's interested, I'm scrapping my K2 build and calling it a
slightly overpriced parts collection for my first K2. My attempt to pull my
burned relay failed and pulled up a couple of the pads. I also managed to
burn the relay next to much worse than the one I was trying to replace.
Yes, I spent a lot of good quality time with the encoder installation and it
came out fine in the end. To be honest, all these "problems" have nothing to
do with the kit - it's more I've made more mistakes with this one than my
first K2 build.
On the other hand, the mistakes I have made have
Hi Don,
I was actually thinking just that - just use my soldering iron and finish
the job I originally started on it lol! I'm lucky that it's one of the
relays in the lowpass filter and not the 40 meter filter, so there are no
components around it of any real note yet
That may be exactly what
Ah yes, thanks for that reminder. If it comes to that, is there a good way to
smush a latching relay body without dangerously ripping the pins out of the
board? I worry that crushing it with say a pair of pliers could stress the
through-holes in the board. Or is it just not that strong?
Thanks,
Interesting, but I would have the following concerns just right off the bat:
- looks huge and therefore possibly fragile. Would it be able to stand up to
/p and dxpedition shipping/handling?
- oh lordy the bugs, the bugs An entire computer inside a rig could also
be a really buggy affair, and
Well, more kudos to Elecraft support are in order, so just want to give
credit where exceptional credit is due. My second K2 build is going nowhere
as smoothly as my first one: I somehow managed to lose D36, the SMT PIN
diode and didn't discover that it was actually gone from my table until I
got
Most likely, the software device for the K3 sound card doesn't support Remote
Desktop. It looks like doing things like remote rendering of sound requires
specific support in the application on the server side via RDP (Remote
Desktop Protocol) and using the Remote Desktop API.
Apparently this
Agree, even I figured out how to twiddle the AGC settings once I found them.
They're not hard to find, just scroll until you see something that starts
with "AGC..." hi hi. If I can do it, anyone can.
As for the defaults, IMO, the K3/K3S AGC is plenty good enough to live with
them for quite a
So... Elecraft almost completely rewrites the AGC support in their
firmware... and that's a lack of follow-through? lots of hi hi's and smileys
here..
but seriously, I totally agree that the wrong AGC settings can make the APF
almost unusable. I personally have found that it works the best with
Yes, my question was partly rhetorical - I don't recall seeing any requests
for access to any of Elecraft's proprietary code, or the ability to modify
it. So I was also a bit mystified by Ken's post.
I think you make a good point but, like you said, Elecraft is primarily a
hardware company, not a
Might I ask what you're referring to?
Thanks,
LS
W5QD
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__
Ah, never mind, my mistake. I've never used the Linux version at all, so I
know even less about that one lol. But yes there's much less of an excuse
there, since 64bit support has been in the Intel-based gcc tools forever
73,
LS
W5QD
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is an interesting device...
73,
LS
W5QD
Nate Bargmann wrote
> * On 2016 07 Apr 11:19 -0500, lstavenhagen wrote:
>> Maybe after it settles down a bit more Elecraft might look at supporting
>> it?
>> I wish I had the spare brain cycles to play with one of these, looks like
>
Maybe after it settles down a bit more Elecraft might look at supporting it?
I wish I had the spare brain cycles to play with one of these, looks like a
lot of bang/buck
Do the linux distros for it come with the dev. toolchains like GCC in them
(I would imagine it's now matured past having to
Bruce makes a good point, which I overlooked also. Yes, the isotropic antenna
is just an ideal and where the term "dbi" comes from - the gain in DB over
the theoretical isotropic 0db-gain antenna.
I too intend to try a mag loop antenna at some point in time, probably the
next time I get tired of
I have decades of experience with trying to operate out of 2nd story or
higher apartments. My findings are the biggest difficulties are:
- grounding
- getting the antenna outside.
To sum it up, the interiors of most apartments are essentially RF anechoic
chambers. This is due to the structures
Glad I use the sandpaper method on my toroid leads lol. In fact, funny this
should come up, because I just started winding my new K2's toroids this
evening. But the solder blob method fails on this kit in exactly the same
way as it did on my first K2 some years ago. It's possible that the tip in
Ah, ok, thanks. I'll not worry about it then. I did locate a flat blade
jewelers screwdriver in my parts box that fits and rotates them, so I think
I'll be OK. Support said to be sure to obey the orientation with the flat
side, which I'll certainly do.
Sure hope this doesn't deep six the kit
Ok thanks for the info, Don. I've actually been having success with a
slightly different method for the ones on the tops of the cans. What I do
now is form the lead and put it in place through the grounding hole (a spare
anti-stat foam pad under the RF board for them to stick into helps). Then,
Interesting... the bandpass filter trimmers in my latest K2 have changed,
IMO, for the slightly worse in terms of quality. My first K2 (#6882 ) has
nice well made looking trimmer caps in it, but 4 of the ones in the new kit
are these barrel shaped ones that are kind of blah in terms of quality,
I have one that I bought fully built and it's an excellent tuner. I only
stopped using it because I have all built-in tuners now and wanted to reduce
the extra cabling.
You'll really like it, works great. I'm not sure I'd want to actually build
one tho. My K2's already have enough super tiny
Now all you have to do is build a K2 hi hi... BTW, do we know the reason the
4 band module was discontinued on the K1? That was the only reason I didn't
get one and went with another K2 in my current build. 2 bands was just
slightly too few for me...
73,
LS
W5QD
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PS: re-tweaked the 4mhz osc with my K3 and reran CAL PLL and CAL FIL - I'm
about where I was, within 20 or 30 hz of WWV on 10mhz, well down in the
noise of overall drift and well good enough for me. I'll see if the ticks
are mitigated out in the mountains where the bands are super quiet later
Hi Don,
Ah, ok, thanks for the info. Interesting on the 4.000mhz osc, just curious
what it's actual function was in the circuit.
Oh and as for calibrating the osc, I tried the N6KR procedure, but it turned
out that after several different iterations though the different methods, I
ended up with
Hi all,
Sorry if these are dumb circuit-detail questions, but my K2s (the one in use
as well as the one on the bench being built) are sort of my self-education
laboratories. Yesterday while out /p in the mountains, I discovered the 5khz
PLL "click" in my #1 K2, which led to researching it in the
Hi Don,
No problem, in fact going through those calcs would probably do me some
good. Part of why I'm building K2 #2 is to learn something along the way.
Especially when I have a problem or question I stop building and start
reading, and am having a great time lol. All kinds of things I didn't pay
Hi Don,
Ok, thanks for the info. Would a resistance check according to the schematic
be reliable at this point (just finished the varactor diode installation
steps)? I dont know if I want to try to power anything up in the half built
state lol.
I'm pretty confident in the daughter board since I
Yep, I was going to sell my K3 to help pay for my K3S, but after putting the
new synthesizer upgrade in it, it seems to refuse to go up for sale hi hi.
Now I need to come up with a Ponzi scheme of some kind so I can keep both
rigs.
The only thing better than a K3 + new synth that you can buy
PS: I've looked at the schematic but I've gone as far as putting the varactor
diodes in, so I'm unsure if there's enough circuitry installed to mess up
just going by the schematic for it...
Help Me, Obiwan!
Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD
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Hi all,
Is there a procedure where I could check the K2 thermistor board for proper
operation once soldered in? I just passed that step in my second K2 build,
and I'm uncertain about one of the pins - it rocked out of place while I was
soldering it to the RF board, but of course it's now soldered
Oops, my apologies: one of those was me, my excuse will have to be that it
was in 1973 and I guess those memories are no longer what they used to be!
I probably mixed that up with my code practice tapes, which definitely did
have 4 letter code group parts
73,
LS
W5QD
Mike Morrow-3 wrote
>>
I took 3 FCC code exams: the 5wpm for my novice in 1973, and years later, the
13wpm for the Advanced and the 20wpm for the Extra. But ironically, I think
the FCC removing the code requirement was a good thing for CW in amateur
radio. Now that people aren't forced to learn it and have to use it,
So... this may be too far OT and forgive me for being ignorant, but I'm
genuinely curious. Is Morse used at all anymore in any commercial or
military enterprises? Or is amateur radio "it" for CW these days? I honestly
don't know if we're the only ones left using it on planet Earth or not
LS
I've looked at this too, given that I'm /P almost 100% of the time now and
have considered various QRO options. Unfortunately, I've yet to find a QRO
solution that doesn't involve something semi-permanently mounted in my
truck. Either a deep-cycle AGM or a high capacity LiFEPO4 in the spare
For me, even if touch-screen UI's were written for old people like myself, hi
hi, I still think its a technology in its infancy.
The infantile part of it being primarily in its application, not so much
just the mere fact that TS technology itself new and still in "1.x"
revisions. When Garmin
Excellent points, IMO. I took both types of code tests. For my novice in 1973
when I was 10 years old, it was the random groups at 5WPM format. IIRC, I
achieved the 1-min-solid-copy requirement by some miraculously slim margin.
It was something like 2 or 3 characters and I remember being extremely
yep, I totally agree. This would be a TBD item for a UI designer, IMO: to
what degree do we actually replace the tuning knob with touch-screen QSY? Do
we make it capable of just getting into the neighborhood and then the user
has to fine tune with the tuning knob? I.e. a kind of dual-capability
Great post, IMO. One of the takeaways we could have from aviation is the
notion of cockpit resource management (CRM), part of which is the idea that
technology should reduce the workload of the pilot rather than increase it.
Or, if there is an increase, it involves a reduction somewhere else (that
Wayne and Eric are probably already aware of the competition and working on
their own responses, but to me the UI advances I personally like are:
- visual representations of the band: panadapters with spectrum displays,
waterfalls and the like
- being able to easily QSY to items of interest on
Just a quick point of clarification (since I did my graduate work in a
similar field). I would say it's more like a "pidgin" language in contesting
exchanges, yes, but in a regular QSO, CW is still basically just an encoding
system for the underlying language the QSO is in.
The only difference
Well, to take the other side for a moment, I promise I'm not a curmudgeon hi
hi. I'm a software engineer in my day job and am accustomed to embracing new
technologies when required; I have a lot of admiration for things like
MorseRunner and CW Skimmer & reversebeacon.net and so forth.
All that
Don't feel too bad, I kind of have the inverse problem: I can copy at a much
greater rate than I can send lol. Also, I never learned to translate CW into
keyboard keystrokes, mainly because I just refuse to get a computer anywhere
near my rigs lol. I prefer to just pound brass, so I think I'm
For what it's worth, just my personal observations:
I drag my K2, K3 and just recently my K3S all over the place on my /p
outings all the time with no troubles. Now, one thing I did do was invest in
a good Pelican case for that purpose - yes, it was pricey at about $200 but
still a fraction of
I have a birdie in my K3 at about 21.022 mhz that I believe accompanied my
synthesizer upgrade. It's about S1 with no ant and the preamp on - I tried
moving the cabling around inside the rig and it had no effect at all.
Apart from that, I just have the "zipper" sound when tuning on certain bands
sorry, gents, I'm not going to be any help to you at _all_ LOL. The only
effective treatment available is probably a 2nd job or a rich XYL hi hi.
Other than that, I think we're just screwed...
73,
LS
W5QD
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Hi Wayne,
Yes, I do that too especially on the low bands like 30 on down. I have
found, though, that with the long 9' whips, the bandwidth and SWR is low
enough on 20 and up that I don't even need to use my tuners, especially
since I'm normally down in the CW portions. On 15 and below the overall
g at and reading about the K3S. I better get a hold of myself - at
>> least until I get back from Dayton in May.
>>
>> 73=Tom
>> W1PDI
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: lstavenhagen [via Elecraft]
> ml-node+s365791n7615490h
You can, but the better compromise if you can do it is the longest possible
radiating element with the least amount of added inductance in the coil.
Reason being, a very short radiating element, even when tuned to resonance
with a lot of coil will have, among other things, a very low radiation
Yes, and Elecraft's tend to multiply once you get your first one. I started
off with my first K2, which I built and still have. And now there have
appeared a K3 a K3S and now my second K2 which I'm currently building... Be
sure and do let that happen to you too!
73,
LS
W5QD
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Yes, my first RX when I was a child in the 70's was a Realistic from Radio
Shack. I can't remember the model but it was as wide as the Red Sea,
especially with the built-in speaker. At one point I got a set of comm
headphones with a hefty peak in 400hz or so range and it really worked well
as a
Well I think Rick's idea of cork is the way to go, though maybe it wont be as
glamorous as fish paper! hi hi. And it'll stay put sandwiched between the
boards too, I imagine...
Onwards to the RF board portion starting tonight. This part I remember well
on my first K2, the parts inventory alone
Ah yes, cork is a much better idea thanks a million!
73,
LS
W5QD
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Actually, I just checked mine after finishing the flush cutting and the
boards are going to touch when they're screwed together.
In the archives it was suggested to use electrical tape, but I'm thinking a
more durable solution might be a thin layer of resin on the daughterboard as
a more
Hi Don,
Ok thanks for the info. Whew, that's good because I managed to ruin it
anyway having made a mistake with it that I'm too ashamed to admit to on the
reflector hi hi.
And thanks for the warning about flush-cutting the daughter board. In fact,
I did find some discussion of this in the
Regarding headphones/speakers, the way I learnt it many years ago was that
hi-fidelity transducers were generally a no-no in communications, primarily
because frequency response and other distortions (if done correctly) aided
in hearing desired signals.
Of course, back then our receivers weren't
Hi all,
Just finished the front panel on my 2nd K2 last night and in the process of
building the encoder daughter board, I noticed there was an unused 4pin
connecter supplied in the kit. Long story short, I ended up ruining the
connector, but I don't see that it's actually used for anything.
I
Well... that may solve the audio problems - Kenwoods do sound great - but
then you end up with everything else in the rig inferior with that solution
hi hi
But seriously, Eric's suggestion of shifting the passband downward is one
that I've used on my K3 in the past to help calm down my beat
Ah, gotcha, thanks Don. I'll see if I can borrow an accurate one for that
part...
Thank you,
LS
W5QD
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Another BTW, I'm definitely not asserting any _distortion_ of the signals or
tones in either radio. Both my K3 and K3S are giving pure clean tones and
voices. My complaints are only centering around (what I believe to be only)
the equalization in the audio, particularly the mid/high frequency
Ok thanks Don. That reminds me, my dummy load is eons old, so I should check
and see if it's still 50 ohms. And I believe my DMM has a 10amp setting that
may work for the bias setting, but I'll check. Also I have a very old MFJ
manual ant. tuner with an analogue wattmeter in it (assuming it still
Hi all,
And speaking of the K2... I can't recall if I asked this several years ago
on my first K2 build when I was contemplating this exact same question the
first time, :), and I couldn't find this specifically in the reflector
archives either.
Are there any specific tools for
Yep, I like my current K2 (#6882) so much and enjoyed building it so much
that I just decided I had to build another one lol... I guess you can't have
too many Elecrafts
Speaking of that, I got the switch from the mailman and just soldered it in.
So onwards with the build...
73,
LS
W5QD
All excellent points. My personal fix is to use my K2 at home where the band
noise is bad (I refuse to mix computers and ham radio at the same time, so
this may not be the fix you have in mind :) ), but when I'm /p, it's a
non-issue. I use all 3 of my rigs when portable with no audio issues.
73,
Ok thanks for the suggestions, Don. I should also mention that the other
posters are quite right to call for objective, independent measurements to
verify impressionistic judgments like my earlier ones. I stand by "shrill
and fatiguing", :), but I concede that's just a personal judgment based on
Funny you should post this - I was just about to send out a Kudos to Elecraft
support for my second K2 which I'm in the process of building right now. It
was missing a front panel switch in the FP board kit; I sent an email to
pa...@elecraft.com on Friday about it. Richard, AD7FZ at Elecraft
My apologies fellers, I didn't mean to turn this into a
let's-bash-the-K3S-audio thread LOL. Probably what I should have said is
something less absolute. Perhaps something like I personally don't notice
much of a difference between my K3 and K3S but that doesn't mean there isn't
a difference
I use both the internal speaker and a set of Sony headphones (not comm.
style, but basic hi-fi, can't remember the model number offhand) on
primarily CW but on very rare occasions I'll go up to the SSB bands from
time to time for listening/entertainment purposes. I do own a microphone,
but I'm not
Well I don't want to complain _real_ loud either lol. The audio on the K3S
really is better. But only slightly - not better enough to spend money on an
upgrade for the K3, imo, which is kind of what I was responding to.
Basically, save the money for filters, etc
A good set of hi-fi headphones
I dunno, the K3S audio actually isn't much better to my ears. Yes, it's a
little better on my K3S compared to my K3, but still kind of shrill and
fatiguing to listen to for long periods of time. I'm not sure it'd be worth
spending a ton of money on to upgrade if there was an upgrade path.
Don't
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