I've been thinking about converting either my K-5 or K-01 to be a
dedicated infrared body. I've been assuming that the K-01 metered off
the sensor and that in live view the K-5 did as well. I also assumed
that this would result in more accurate metering, since it based on the
IR spectrum that
dont know but interesting question. I'll follow this one.
Dave
On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 5:31 PM, Mark C pdml-m...@charter.net wrote:
I've been thinking about converting either my K-5 or K-01 to be a dedicated
infrared body. I've been assuming that the K-01 metered off the sensor and
that in
Of Paul
Sorenson
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: metering question
I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's
such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider
getting and learning to use
Sorenson
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: metering question
I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's
such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider
getting and learning to use an incident
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 11:09 AM, mike wilson m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com wrote:
I like the first two more than the rest. How bizarre is that?
Me too.
As to the way I would meter...
I usually meter similar to what Larry suggests.
- Set desire ISO, probably 400
- Set for spot meter, manual mode
On 28/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
I think flash fill is the obvious answer. You'll rarely find a pro PJ
photographer shooting in daylight without a good flash mounted. It's the
best way to bring light to the foreground.
Like this :-)
I'd spot meter for the skin tone highlights and go down the high contrast route,
The structure and shadows will create some very interesting patterns.
DS
On 28 August 2010 23:13, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
On Aug 29, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Cotty wrote:
On 28/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
I think flash fill is the obvious answer. You'll rarely find a pro PJ
photographer shooting in daylight without a good flash mounted. It's the
best way to bring light to the foreground.
On 29/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074
Yep!
Well that's an absolute classic case - and very evenly matched up,
you've got evening (I presume) sunlight hitting the building and even
the guy's face (black T, blue cap, my gut) and
On Aug 29, 2010, at 4:49 PM, Cotty wrote:
On 29/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074
Yep!
Well that's an absolute classic case - and very evenly matched up,
you've got evening (I presume) sunlight hitting the building and
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player
on those photos were taken with the K7
Christine,
Wow that is really challenging light when you're using a wide angle lens.
The bright sunlight beyond 'under the tracks' really biases the exposures.
The first 3 shots with the K-20 are just too dark.
It looks like the K-7 did better, but those blow out the sunlight to
see into the
From: Christine Aguila
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player
on those photos
As expected, the k7 did a much better job of metering. I think you're about
right with those. You have to expect the somewhat blown backgrounds if your
subjects are properly exposed. I might shoot a test or two with multipoint
metering, look at the histo, then adjust exposure comp if necessary.
On Aug 28, 2010, at 8:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
I might put the camera on spot metering and use that to set
Christine - this looks like an interesting project for many reasons.
I can't give you any specifics, but here are a few things to think about.
This is a situation where shooting in raw can be very helpful. You'll
be able to squeeze more dynamic range from your images with raw
originals. Maybe
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax
player
on those photos were taken with the
Christine Aguila wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax
player on those photos
I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's
such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider
getting and learning to use an incident meter. Minolta, Gossen, Pentax,
Sekonic are usually considered the standards. I have a cheapy
(relatively
/cdsound/
-Original Message-
From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Sorenson
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: metering question
I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's
As a footnote to this, flash would do a lot here to bring the foreground
exposure closer to the background. I'd probably start with a full measure and
then try maybe a minus half stop. You won't even see it in the results, but the
results will be better.
Paul
On Aug 28, 2010, at 1:01 PM, paul
On Aug 28, 2010, at 2:01 PM, Bob W wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax
Christine Aguila wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax
player on those photos
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax
player
on those photos were taken
On Aug 28, 2010, at 3:44 PM, Derby Chang wrote:
Christine Aguila wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the
On Aug 28, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Bob W wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the
On Aug 28, 2010, at 7:35 PM, paul stenquist wrote:
On Aug 28, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Bob W wrote:
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to
photograph
people under the el tracks downtown.
I would like to know how folks might meter for this project.
The 1st 3
http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest
I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever,
which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights
and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the
right
as
you can.
If she
On 29 August 2010 09:55, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote:
I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to
exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally
I would try to avoid shooting under such extreme ranges of contrast unless I
was
On Aug 28, 2010, at 8:02 PM, Rob Studdert wrote:
On 29 August 2010 09:55, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote:
I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to
exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally
I would try to avoid
Everyone has made good suggestions, and I aim to try all of them. I'd like
to do a small gallery of this subject following the seasons and holidays.
In the next month or so, I'll post my 1st go round. I see this as a
challenging project, but hopefully the ole'college try will help to overcome
, 8/28/10, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote:
From: Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: metering question
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 6:15 PM
Everyone has made good suggestions,
and I aim to try all of them. I'd like
Christine, here is a number of ideas that came to my mind, numbered in
total randomness...
1. All shots you presented seem exposed ok to me.
2. K7 is more prone to burning highlights, therefore you might want to
go like this:
a. set it to spot metering
b. choose the point in the scene that
Nice story.
I grew up in a couple places heavily shaped by rail. The first being the
Okanagan Valley (I hiked Myra Canyon and other parts of the Kettle
Valley Railway as a Boy Scout as well as with my father) and Sudbury,
ON, which was a railroad town long before the nickel (My mother's back
yard
I was talking about the web site itself not being friendly to rail
enthusiasts. Yeah it's ok for the tourists, but it doesn't tell me what
I want to know.
Most of the steam railroad web-pages have a link for the real old-timer
steam buffs that takes you to a listing of the equipment the
As I said,.poorly, it's a tourist oriented website and attraction. Why
don't you drop them an e-mail with suggestions?
John Sessoms wrote:
I was talking about the web site itself not being friendly to rail
enthusiasts. Yeah it's ok for the tourists, but it doesn't tell me what
I want to
Steam railfans are an odd lot. In the early 70's, I worked for a
railroad at their headquarters. Most steam disappeared from US
railroads by the early 50's, forced out by desiel electric
locomotives. Our operating department was staffed by folks who
grew-up operating steam, former train
I think it looks like great fun. I love trains!
rg2
On 9/10/07, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As I said,.poorly, it's a tourist oriented website and attraction. Why
don't you drop them an e-mail with suggestions?
John Sessoms wrote:
I was talking about the web site itself not
I grew up in Rutland. It was the second largest city in Vermont with 16,000
souls. The road from my rural home to town took us over an arched
cement/steel bridge that spanned a narrower part of the Rutland yard. This
was the one of , if not the largest yard in New England at the time. It was
Nice story Bob. Before 1st grade, our apartment was on a street
ending 1 1/2 blocks south in a Northwestern roundhouse near in to
downtown Chicago. I used to beg to go down to the roundhouse and
watch the Steam Engines. These are some of my earliest memories.
Regards, Bob S.
On 9/10/07, Bob
Thanks for sharing your memory. I miss my dad as well. Dads are special.
Paul
On Sep 10, 2007, at 8:44 PM, Bob Blakely wrote:
I grew up in Rutland. It was the second largest city in Vermont
with 16,000
souls. The road from my rural home to town took us over an arched
cement/steel bridge
My grandmother lived about one block south of the Rock Island line on
the south side of Chicago. I remember watching the steam engines chug
into the station on 89th and Loomis. Again, it's a very early memory.
I was perhaps five years old -- 1953.Then they were gone. But I'm
glad that I
Rebekah wrote:
nice shot! There's a tank graveyard on base at Aberdeen proving
grounds in Maryland, have you ever been there? They don't go anywhere
either ;)
I haven't been there in about 30 years, but one of my best afternoons as
a kid was going through that display and the museum at
No.
:( where is that train located?
I haven't been there in about 30 years, but one of my best afternoons as
a kid was going through that display and the museum at Aberdeen. I hope
to get back there in the next year or two.
I didn't get to see the museum :( but they have this huge gun on a
The Valley Railroad, in Essex Connecticut. It's a working Steam Railway
museum. They run a couple of Restored Steam Loco's and have a couple of
Modern Chinese Steam Loco's, (one of which they run on the line as well,
the other on display), (to the untrained eye, with most of the extra
metal
Ah, but the problem is that Mr Joe Littleguy is a lot easier to regulate than
Mr Big Industry Lobbiest. Now of course their are only about 0.1% as many folks
doing chemical based photography, but that never did stop the lawmakers from
doing their thing. In fact they like it because they are not
So far I haven't seen such a regulation proposed, nor can I imagine how
it could be reasonably enforced.
graywolf wrote:
Ah, but the problem is that Mr Joe Littleguy is a lot easier to regulate than
Mr Big Industry Lobbiest. Now of course their are only about 0.1% as many
folks doing
From:
P. J. Alling
The Valley Railroad, in Essex Connecticut. It's a working Steam
Railway museum. They run a couple of Restored Steam Loco's and have a
couple of Modern Chinese Steam Loco's, (one of which they run on the
line as well, the other on display), (to the untrained eye, with most
No, it's a tourist attraction site. It's not that they discourage
visitors, but they're old fashioned, no digital computers in the age of
steam, (but I bet they'd love to have a Babbage Difference Engine to
display).
John Sessoms wrote:
From:
P. J. Alling
The Valley Railroad, in Essex
On Sep 8, 2007, at 10:10 AM, Tom C wrote:
Totally OT - Chocolate covered jalapenos. Now there's a
combination to be
marketed! Sounds like a
winner combining the 'feel good' chocolate effects and the endorphines
produced by the capsaicin
burn.
We tried adding a couple of little dried
Sent: 08 September 2007 01:10
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: Metering Question
thanks :o) that's an interesting recipe, I'll have to try it out.
It
doesn't look like an actual fudge recipe - you have to get it to 234
or 235 fahrenheit, which takes FOREVER when you have to stand
On 9/8/07, Bob W [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
nothing beats a tried and true recipe. If I make it to the next
GFM,
maybe we can have some hot balls to munch on. ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCVT9lDwPM4mode=relatedsearch=
That was a little too predictable.
I picked that before I clicked
On a related note. I have a bottle of Tmax developer and a bottle of
fix, never opened and about a year or year and a half old. Its on my
gadget bag table about 20 odd feet from any window, but does get the
diffused light from the windows. Do you think it would still be ok. Or
is it a nessesity to
Tmax developer seems to last a long time. I used some from a bottle
that was three or four years old. Seemed fine. Works well on tri-x or
faster film.
Paul
On Sep 8, 2007, at 8:00 AM, David J Brooks wrote:
On a related note. I have a bottle of Tmax developer and a bottle of
fix, never
Thanks Paul.
I might just go back to doing my own and saving a drive downtown. Its
a 100 km round trip from here to the store and i can only get there on
certain Saturdays. Right now its three trips, so if i can make only
two...
Dave
On 9/8/07, Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tmax
This was about a STILL photo, or didn't you know?
Regards,
Bob...
Life isn't like a box of chocolates . .
it's more like a jar of jalapenos.
What you do today, might burn your butt tomorrow.
- Original Message -
From: graywolf
From:
Rebekah
Silver is a cumulative toxin like mercury.
I don't think it's such a good idea to pour used fixer down the drains.
Where would you take it then? I've heard that lots of places that
dispose of liquid waste like used oil just pour it down the drain
too. Is there a way to
If silver oxide is such a toxin, why do we still value and use silverware?
OTOH, if you process enough, silver recovery can net you some small change.
Regards,
Bob...
Life isn't like a box of chocolates . .
it's more like a jar of
Trains rarely stand still for photo ops:-).
Paul
On Sep 8, 2007, at 4:21 PM, Bob Blakely wrote:
This was about a STILL photo, or didn't you know?
Regards,
Bob...
Life isn't like a box of chocolates . .
it's more like a jar of
Trains rarely stand still for photo ops:-).
Bull. They always stand still when I need to get across the tracks in a hurry.
rg2
On 9/8/07, Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Trains rarely stand still for photo ops:-).
Paul
On Sep 8, 2007, at 4:21 PM, Bob Blakely wrote:
This was about
So, I guess the best thing is to talk to a local lab (mini or
otherwise) and see if they'll take the used fix for proper disposal
according to whatever the local law is.
Thanks, I'll see if anyone around here will take it :o)
rg2
On 9/8/07, Bob Blakely [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If silver
This one always stands still for photo ops...
http://www.mindspring.com/~morephotos/PESO_--_disabled.html
(an old PESO)
Rebekah wrote:
Trains rarely stand still for photo ops:-).
Bull. They always stand still when I need to get across the tracks in a
hurry.
rg2
On 9/8/07, Paul
nice shot! There's a tank graveyard on base at Aberdeen proving
grounds in Maryland, have you ever been there? They don't go anywhere
either ;)
rg2
On 9/8/07, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This one always stands still for photo ops...
No.
Rebekah wrote:
nice shot! There's a tank graveyard on base at Aberdeen proving
grounds in Maryland, have you ever been there? They don't go anywhere
either ;)
rg2
On 9/8/07, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This one always stands still for photo ops...
Rebekah wrote:
So, I guess the best thing is to talk to a local lab (mini or
otherwise) and see if they'll take the used fix for proper disposal
according to whatever the local law is.
Thanks, I'll see if anyone around here will take it :o)
rg2
I think you guys are
On Sep 6, 2007, at 7:37 PM, Bob Sullivan wrote:
You're taking it the wrong way completely.
Fun for him to meditate while developing/printing film, but big .
The digital route is cheaper in the long run.
Ah, I just didn't understand what you meant at all given the way the
quote and your
Hi Adam,
Recently, I have gotten some rolls of non-C41 BW, some Fuji Acros
100. I see you mention mailers here, indicating that they are
cheaper. What (or who) do you recommend for developing these
prints? I would like to be economical--but get good quality--and a
mailer would be fine.
I Agree 100%
-Adam
Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
You pays your money and likes what you likes.
As long as the photos are what I want, I'm happy.
G
On Sep 6, 2007, at 5:05 PM, Bob Sullivan wrote:
Fun, but $ Regards, Bob S.
--
PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
PDML@pdml.net
John Sessoms wrote:
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I think Adam is correct. The popularity of the disposals is waning. Most
cellphones can take a better picture than a plastic lens, fixed focus
disposable. And consumers will eventually figure that out. But films that
are applicable to fine art
John Sessoms wrote:
All I know is what I see, and I'm getting nine disposable 35mm
cameras for every one 35mm roll of film. About half the 35mm
rolls I do get are chromogenic BW film and I get the occasional
disposable camera loaded with that film.
I'd also say about half the disposable
Glen,
Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed. They are not
economical for BW. For cheap processing of Fuji Acros, do it yourself. I
recommend Agfa or AO Rodinal at 1:50 dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30
seconds initial agitation with 2 inversions per minute. Should run
Whoa, $0.60 a roll--that beats the heck out of $16.95 (plus tax)!
Unfortunately, I have never developed a roll of film. What equipment
would I need? I do not have a darkroom per se. I have a
basement. Would I be able to develop at night in my basement?
Regards,
Glen
On Sep 7, 2007, at
And there is such a thing as a daylight loading developing tank. I have one
made
by Kodak. Never have found instructions for loading it and about half my tries
resulted in a destroyed roll of film sigh. I rather think it was not designed
for modern super thin film.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Adam Maas wrote:
Glen,
Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed. They are not
economical for BW. For cheap processing of Fuji Acros, do it yourself. I
recommend Agfa or AO Rodinal at 1:50 dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30
seconds initial agitation with 2 inversions
On 9/7/07, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools to load film on, a
couple graduated cylinders for measuring chemicals, a thermometer, squeegee
and some film hangers for drying. Chemical-wise, developer (I use Rodinal and
TMax
Thank you very much, Scott. I have been wanting to try developing my
own prints, but I have feared doing so. I tend to be a
perfectionist, and I fear disappointment. I do not have the
equipment, either. What would I need? It would be great to have
someone show me the correct way of
Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools to load film on, a
couple graduated cylinders for measuring chemicals, a thermometer, squeegee and
some film hangers for drying. Chemical-wise, developer (I use Rodinal and TMax
Developer), stop bath and fixer are all that's required.
It takes a pretty large changing bag to fit an enlarger in it grin. I did
know
a guy once who had a darkroom setup in a trailer he hauled around to events
with
him.
David Savage wrote:
On 9/7/07, Adam Maas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools
Glen Tortorella wrote:
Thank you very much, Scott. I have been wanting to try developing my
own prints, but I have feared doing so. I tend to be a
perfectionist, and I fear disappointment. I do not have the
equipment, either. What would I need? It would be great to have
someone
To develop film you need only a tank, reels, and a changing bag. You can do it
anywhere. The changing bag allows you to work in a lit room. Printing requires
much more, including an enlarger, an easel, a focusing magnifier, and trays.
But used darkroom equipment is very inexpensive these days.
My modern film to print darkroom equipment:
- Changing bag
- Daylight development tank (16oz capacity, two reels 35mm size)
- accurate thermometer for the range from 60 to 120 degrees F
- timer (up to 60 minutes, seconds counter useful)
- graduates for mixing and measuring chemistry
- mixing
The movie folks seem to be able to do this with ease, but then they use a
movie head with a large pan handle and smth movements. I've never tried
it but it seems that it would work, especially for trains. Unfortunately,
good movie heads are quite expensive.
Regards,
Bob...
And the movie folk get as many takes as they want. Okay, back her up and do it
again. Not to mention that they can get their frame and focus with the train
parked. Gnerally, they mark the lens for different focus points along the
track, and as the train moves with the camera rolling, the
Thank you, Scott. The developing sounds like something I could
perhaps do. The darkroom sounds more involved (and costly). Adam
says his bathroom is too small for printing, and so he scans and
prints digitally. Do you do likewise? I would be able to make nice
prints with a dedicated
You don't need no stinking squeegee, get your fingers nice and wet and
use them. Works fine and I've scratched less film that way, (zero
rolls), than I have using a dirty squeegee.
Adam Maas wrote:
Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools to load film on, a
couple graduated
They also take detailed measurements and choreograph the movements of
the train, a camera platform and the lens zoom ahead of time. Then shoot
it more than once correcting for any oversights as they go along. They
only make it look easy.
Bob Blakely wrote:
The movie folks seem to be able to
Equipment for developing BW film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
(With commentary).
1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel with PVC plastic
tops, but
Yep. I never found a squeege that worked as well as my fingers to clear the
water. I also used that anti-spotting agent in the final bath. Can't remember
what it's called. Been out of the darkroom too long:-).
Paul
-- Original message --
From: P. J. Alling
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yep. I never found a squeege that worked as well as my fingers to clear the
water. I also used that anti-spotting agent in the final bath. Can't
remember what it's called. Been out of the darkroom too long:-).
Paul
Kodak calls it Photoflo. It's basically a
Whether you're handholding or using a tripod with a pan head for your still
shotof the train, you still can't:
1....take detailed measurements and choreograph the movements of
the train, a camera platform and the lens zoom ahead of time.
2. ... shoot it more than once correcting for any
You keep the train in frame the frame of your choice until you pass the
point of shutter trip. You can know where that point is whether you hand
hold or use a tripod.
Regards,
Bob...
Life isn't like a box of chocolates . .
it's more like
This information is invaluable. I'm saving it to my computer for
future reference. Thank you so much. By the way, what scanner do you
use?
rg2
On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Equipment for developing BW film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
(With commentary).
1.
I have an Acer 2720s film scanner for 35mm negatives and slides, (their
scanner business was bought by Benq, who dropped the product line a year
or so ago apparently), that I need to reconnect to my computer. It was
reasonably priced and reasonably specifications when I bought it. I've
been
I have no idea what you're asking. You said the movie folk make it look easy. I
tried to explain that while it may look easy in the finished product, it takes
a lot of work to get there. Nothing more. Peter attempted to make the same
point. When shooting with a camera on tripod with a movie
I have done it many times. It is much easier when holding the camera
with one's hands.
Glen
On Sep 7, 2007, at 3:47 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have no idea what you're asking. You said the movie folk make it
look easy. I tried to explain that while it may look easy in the
finished
P. J. Alling wrote:
Equipment for developing BW film in your kitchen or bathroom sink.
(With commentary).
1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel with
The folks operating those cameras have had years of practice, too.
On Fri, Sep 07, 2007 at 10:59:21AM -0700, Bob Blakely wrote:
The movie folks seem to be able to do this with ease, but then they use a
movie head with a large pan handle and smth movements. I've never tried
it but it
You can also do colour with pretty much the same gear, but it has to be
done at a higher temperature, to get the temperature right it is easy to
dunk the bottles of chemicals into a sink of tap-hot water, after 10
mins the whole lot is at about the right temp, you only need to maintain
the
On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight,
but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag).
You can get a film changing bag from BH for $25 or so. Works quite
nicely, once you get the hang of loading film onto
From:
graywolf
It takes a pretty large changing bag to fit an enlarger in it grin.
I did know a guy once who had a darkroom setup in a trailer he hauled
around to events with him.
They're also not that convenient if you prefer the lift-rod method of
agitation.
--
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