Re: Help /HORN CLAY
Dear Tony, I expect to be in Queensland from mid July to mid August. If there was interest in it I probably could fit in a workshop in New Zealand. I gave them a go in Australia in regards to radionic treatment and weather regeneration, and that was successful as far as making rain. What I'm worried about is how many farmers took home enough dowsing and radionic skills to do that kind of thing on their own hereafter. Best, Hugh The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will make some good 500, horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd. Thanks for reminding me. Best regards Tony R Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Help /HORN CLAY
- Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 1:38 AM Subject: Re: Help Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Dear Hugh That horn clay was made from our own clay, which is a yellow sticky clay and had been buried for about 16-17 months as I had forgotten to lift it up that autumn it was going to be 12month horn clay . I have been using it ever since at first with the 500 stir . I then had Peter Bacchus potentise it for me to use along with Glen and Peters Garuda range of potentised preps. Last spring in September I started to use all the preps in a sequential spray programme from Steve Storch modified a little to suit my own conditions.I am spraying every 2 months and I am very pleased with the results especially when we have been experiencing some dramatic 30 year weather cycle we have gone from the coldest wettest spring to the hottest and driest summer . it is predicted to go on for about another 4-5 weeks which means for us a 100 year drought . Anyway my fern crops which I harvest all year round are doing extremely well . The size of the crop has improved, production is better and so is the qualility. I have not had any complaints for several months. I have also noticed that my usual summer pest problems are less this year. Also a small amount of horn clay is mixed withall the preps 500,501,BC and spinled over the worm farms and the leachate is use as liquid feed on a weekly basis applied through the irrigation. Soon I will put down an autumn spring horn clay and then a spring -autumn ho rn clay this will be for my more seasonal crops. The horns that were still buried were new horns that I had been given and were buried to get rid of the insides All these horns have been lifted covered with a white fungal growth Hopefully these will make some good 500, horn clay etc as they came from a convential cow herd. Thanks for reminding me. Best regards Tony R
Re: Help
I have just recently used some horn manure horn clay mix, mostly made as my father leaned it from Ernst Stegeman. Seeing the results causes me to greatly regret having separated the clay out before stiring. when we applied it to the family farm 40 years ago. When I / we stir a barrel of 500 here it attracts rain. I have a long bamboo pole tied to a branch in a tree. With three people stiring the rain has come within one hour of the finish of stiring. When I stir alone it take five or six hours. I can just about see the grass growing in the sprayed zone. Peter. - Original Message - From: Rambler Flowers LTD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] . chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very sick with the flu. Your post has reminded me that we reburied some horn clay and I have never lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back. Yes I have been using horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting better. Back soon Tony R
RE: Help
Dear Michael, Many thanks for your support. We have had some torrential rains over the last week and hopefully, the mites will be washed away for this season, but we must be ready with a plan for next years attack. We have made a brew and some peppers and sprayed it. Will revert with the results. Warm Regards Anil -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of mroboz Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 12:28 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Help Dear Hugh, Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much appreciated, Michael - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM Subject: Re: Help Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan
Re: Help
Dear Michael Roboz, Why would I use homeopathic horn clay followed by an evening yarrow (502) homeopathic soil spray and the next morning a foliar valerian (507) spray to control spider mites in tea plants? Here is part of the explanation from another post. It explains why the horn clay but does not make the 502-507 tandem spray clear so read on with a little patience. Dears, Upon seeing aphids I would tend to think the sap is weak and watery. If you tasted this sap (as good a test, if not better, as a refractometer) it would be bland rather than rich and catch-at-your-throat. To some extent 501 WILL help, as it influences the strength with which the silica force comes up from within the earth , and that is what carries the lime and other strong minerals upward along with the nitrogen, which is what makes the plant lush. But the real key is the clay, which is the mediator between silica and lime and is what needs stimulating if the silica force is to carry lime up into the sap of the plant and to the growing tip. Thus the sure-fire remedy--I suspect almost every time--for aphids is horn clay. Apply it along with applications of horn manure and horn silica and you not only won't see any imbalances between lime and silica and your basil won't rush too bloody quickly to bloom, but you won't see any aphids. Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. Clay mediates between silica and lime all right. It's the bridge that get the lime, phosphorus, potash, etc. into the plant. Here's a Steiner said. On pages 32 and 33 of the Agriculture Course, Creeger/Gardener translation, Steiner is talking about the mineral forces and their tendency to crystalize and to become free from the Earth's influence and come under the influence of the distant cosmic forces that are within the earth. He goes on to say, Let me remark here that if we are dealing with a soil that does not carry these influences upward during the winter as it should, it is good to furnish the soil with some clay, the dosage of which I will indicate later. With the clay, we prepare the soil to conduct the crystalline force upward, for the plant growth above the Earth's surface. Horn clay will also cure spider mites, grasshoppers, and quite a few other insect infestations. I remember one Florida nursery under shadecloth where in the less lush area Pitosporum had absolutely no spider mites while the lusher areas were infested.There are a couple of species of predatory mites that eat spider mites, and I was using a small Radio Shack microscope watching this process. The predator mites were racing around the leaf, pinching the sloth-like, sucking spider mites as though they were Hansel's witch checking to see if he was ready to roast yet. In the area with the weaker sap they kept racing around, checking but not eating. In the stronger sap areas there simply weren't any spider mites. The predators had them completely in check. Taste a leaf in the weaker sap area? Mild and the juice could be swallowed pleasantly enough. Taste a leaf from the stronger sap part? Whew, the caustic limeness of it warned you not to swallow. The remedy for the area where the plants were too lush and the nitrogen uptake was well ahead of the lime was horn clay. Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel Okay. Why the 504 along with the horn clay? Simply that 504 is a circulatory remedy that carries the magnesium up to the leaf to play its role in the chloroplasts as the central ion in chlorophyll. This helps to round out the picture with the horn clay and the uptake of calcium. But there is even more to this picture. Yarrow is known to be one of the plants to first colonize new soils, as with the slopes of Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, etc. It works with the watery element especially well, and mycorrhyzae have a special affinity for it. It loves both the very fluid potash that is key to good stem formation, and the firery sulfur that draws the spiritual hydrogen, etc. into biological
Re: Help
- Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] . chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Hi Hugh sorry for the delay . It has been a very busy week as well as my wife has been going through a homeopathic detox and it has made her very sick with the flu. Your post has reminded me that we reburied some horn clay and I have never lifted it , will check in the next day or two and report back. Yes I have been using horn clay ever since and my crops have been getting better. Back soon Tony R
Re: Help
In a message dated 3/18/03 8:51:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. We have observed extensive mycorrhizal development in the soil of the 501 pits at jpi, a heavy clay soil...sstorch
Re: Help
Dear Hugh, Could you provide an explanation as to your thought processes for Anil's mite problem. Perhaps now you are caught up and more energiized. Much appreciated, Michael - Original Message - From: Hugh Lovel [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 10:19 PM Subject: Re: Help Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan
Re: Help
on 15/3/03 2:23, Allan Balliett at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces! Daniel
Re: Help
Dears, Upon seeing aphids I would tend to think the sap is weak and watery. If you tasted this sap (as good a test, if not better, as a refractometer) it would be bland rather than rich and catch-at-your-throat. To some extent 501 WILL help, as it influences the strength with which the silica force comes up from within the earth , and that is what carries the lime and other strong minerals upward along with the nitrogen, which is what makes the plant lush. But the real key is the clay, which is the mediator between silica and lime and is what needs stimulating if the silica force is to carry lime up into the sap of the plant and to the growing tip. Thus the sure-fire remedy--I suspect almost every time--for aphids is horn clay. Apply it along with applications of horn manure and horn silica and you not only won't see any imbalances between lime and silica and your basil won't rush too bloody quickly to bloom, but you won't see any aphids. Tony Robinson (Rambler Flowers) will probably remember digging up his horn clay when I gave a workshop at his place in August of 2000. It was one of the best examples of fungal (mycorrhyzal) development I've seen in horn clay. But, of course, I haven't seen as much horn clay as all that because it isn't so widely made as yet, having not been specifically recommended in the Agriculture Course. Nonetheless, I have slides of Tony's horn clay and you can see the rich fungal development. This is what you want on your plant roots. Mycorrhyzal colonization of plant roots can increase the mineral uptake of a plant by a factor of 10 or more. Clay mediates between silica and lime all right. It's the bridge that get the lime, phosphorus, potash, etc. into the plant. Here's a Steiner said. On pages 32 and 33 of the Agriculture Course, Creeger/Gardener translation, Steiner is talking about the mineral forces and their tendency to crystalize and to become free from the Earth's influence and come under the influence of the distant cosmic forces that are within the earth. He goes on to say, Let me remark here that if we are dealing with a soil that does not carry these influences upward during the winter as it should, it is good to furnish the soil with some clay, the dosage of which I will indicate later. With the clay, we prepare the soil to conduct the crystalline force upward, for the plant growth above the Earth's surface. Horn clay will also cure spider mites, grasshoppers, and quite a few other insect infestations. I remember one Florida nursery under shadecloth where in the less lush area Pitosporum had absolutely no spider mites while the lusher areas were infested.There are a couple of species of predatory mites that eat spider mites, and I was using a small Radio Shack microscope watching this process. The predator mites were racing around the leaf, pinching the sloth-like, sucking spider mites as though they were Hansel's witch checking to see if he was ready to roast yet. In the area with the weaker sap they kept racing around, checking but not eating. In the stronger sap areas there simply weren't any spider mites. The predators had them completely in check. Taste a leaf in the weaker sap area? Mild and the juice could be swallowed pleasantly enough. Taste a leaf from the stronger sap part? Whew, the caustic limeness of it warned you not to swallow. The remedy for the area where the plants were too lush and the nitrogen uptake was well ahead of the lime was horn clay. Incidentally, in making horn clay, when you take it out of the horn, DON'T scrape off the fungi and dispose of this before drying and grinding the clay, unless you are trying to collect a little concentrate horn clay fungi. That fungi is what you want, in aces and spades. It is one of the chief keys to how horn clay operates. And thanks, Tony, for making such wonderful horn clay. What have been your experiences in using it? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel Have used 501 four times this season on indoor tomatoes. We had the best plants ever and unusually few fungal diseases. Sweet basil,though, tends to bud straight after application, but plants also ended up more fungus resistant. Small inconvenient really and a nice proof that 501 works! But I agree with Grotzke: I would not treat tomatoes and f.ex lettuces at the same time: unless I wanted seedheads on my lettuces! Daniel Visit our website at: www.unionag.org
Re: Help
I've used 501 in glashouses on tomato plants. The fruit flavours were much improved. Much the same rules apply as those for outdoor plants; look at leaf form. If it is round and juicy 501 is helpful provided the other preparations are still active. If the plant has smaller, pointy leaves with more pronounced serations, preparations from the 500 end of the spectrum are called for, and or a feed. Peter. What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan
Re: Help
- Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 1:23 AM Subject: Re: Help What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. But, what is you life experience? Thanks -Allan Hi I have been using 501 and Potentised 501 under 30,000 sq feet of plastic houses for 10 years and havn't had any problems . In fact growing under cover I feel that you should be using it more often particularly when light levels are low and plant growth is soft. Cheers Tony R
Re: Help
spray more silica/ bd501... sstorch
Re: Help
In a message dated 3/14/03 8:29:54 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What sort of experiences have you (anyone) had with using 501 in a greenhouse? I think that Grotzke advised that it is too strong for use in a greenhouse. (?) For this reason, I have held off using it. First outbreak of aphids makes me think of using it. I think heinz mentioned a residual and a generalized effect that henceforth makes the house uncomfortable for seedlings. I don't know how Heinz brought the climate of Germany to his New Hampshire greenhouse but I do not doubt that he did. If using the 501 to repel / make uncomfortable for aphids and not used to increase light, you may want to spray late in the afternoon, soaking the critters well; you may also try a nettles tea and ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch
Re: Help
ask the ants and lady bugs to come and eat...sstorch Not the ants, Steve. Don't invite the ants to the greenhouse. It is they who manage the aphids...
Help
Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Diver Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 7:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Fermented foods in China, book review Here is a book review on fermented foods in China. When you think about (EM) Effective Microorganisms from Japan and (IMO) Indigenous Microoganisms from Korea, you realize you can learn about agricultural applications of fermented soil and foliar cultures by learning about fermented foods and microbiology.Soil biology and microbial applications become clearer when you study the whole process and the culture from which they emerge. Regards, Steve Diver == Book review in: Food Research International Volume 35, Issue 6 , 2002 , Pages 595-596 By Danji Fukushima Noda Institute for Scientific Research Noda-shi Chiba-ken 278-0037 Japan Science and Civilization in China, Volume 6, Part V: Fermentations and Food Science H. T. Huang. Cambridge University Press, 2001, pp. 741. ISBN 0-521-6527-7. Price: $150.00 This book is part of Science and Civilisation in China series and focused on the scientific basis and historical background of the fermentations and food processing technologies that are the mainstay of the Chinese dietary system. The Introduction described in Chapter (a) begins with a survey of the food resources in ancient China, and an account of how the food materials were prepared, cooked, and presented for consumption. It is followed by Chapter (b), which is a review on the literature and sources used in exploring the processing technology. The main topic appears in Chapter (c): the fermentation technology and its evolution to the production of alcoholic drinks in their various manifestations. Included also is a comparison of the very different technologies between East Asia and the West for converting grains into alcoholic beverages and an explanation of the reason for this difference. The next topic discussed in Chapter (d) is the processing of soybeans to convert to palatable, nutritious food products, such as bean curds (non-fermented) or soy nuggets, soy pastes, soy sauce (fermented), and others. Chapter (e) is on food processing and preservation, including pasta and filamentous noodles. The subsequent topic described in Chapter (f) is tea processing. Chapter (g) relates to nutrition, which is focused on the natural history of disease in China due to nutritional deficiency. Chapter (h) ends the volume with a series of reflections on how nature, technology, and human intervention have induced the discovery and innovation of processed foods in traditional China. The most characteristic feature in the fermentation technology in East Asia is the outstanding role of molded grain mass of Aspergillus, Rhizopus, and/or Mucor, known as chhu or koji. This unique ingredient, mold ferment, was developed originally for making alcoholic drinks from grains in ancient China, but there was no parallel invention in the early civilization in the West. The author has ascribed this difference to the nature (cultivated grains and environment) and technology (prior art of fabricating a pottery steamer) through the speculation from ancient classical literature. In China, the grains, which are millet and rice, contain soft kernels that can be directly boiled or steamed. The climate in China is hot and humid in summer. Plant residues of both grains are favorable to fungal growth. As a result, the air over the Neolithic communities in China might have been loaded with spores of these fungi. The conditions thus promoted must have been appropriate for spores to find a suitable site on the steamed granules to stimulate germination and growth thereafter. On the other hand, in ancient Sumeria and Egypt, the major grains were wheat and barley. Their hard kernels had to be ground into meal or flour before they could be cooked. A smooth paste prepared from flour would have a limited surface to attract airborne fungal spores. Further, in the dry climate of the Near East, the air over the Neolithic communities was probably deficient of the desired type of fungi. Furthermore in these situations, there was the prior art of fabricating a pottery steamer, by which they could prepare granules heavily laden with water. Contrary to this speculation by the author, the recent experimental data (Yamashita, 1997) on mold ferment clearly show that there is scarcely contamination of fungus spores from air to grains. Most of the spores come from uncooked grains, husks, straw, etc.; fungi
Re: Help
Anif Dear, For this I would use homeopathically potentized biodynamic horn clay plus stinging nettle sprayed or treated radionically in the afternoon. Then an evening treatment of homeopathic biodynamic yarrow remedy (502) followed the next morning with homeopathic biodynamic valerian remedy (507). The treatment might need to be repeated a few times. I could explain why but it would take some time and here it is very late at night. What are your access to biodynamic remedies and what would be your means of applying them? Best wishes, Hugh Lovel, Georgia, USA Dear Friends, I will be very grateful, if anyone , can give me some information or suggestions on how to control Mites in Organic Tea, especially Red Spider Mite ( Oligonycus coffea ) I work on a Organic Tea Plantation in South India, where we have also started started to appreciate the principles of BD farming and thus, very much in its infancy !! Thanking you, With Kind Regards Anil Dharmapalan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Diver Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 7:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Fermented foods in China, book review Here is a book review on fermented foods in China. When you think about (EM) Effective Microorganisms from Japan and (IMO) Indigenous Microoganisms from Korea, you realize you can learn about agricultural applications of fermented soil and foliar cultures by learning about fermented foods and microbiology.Soil biology and microbial applications become clearer when you study the whole process and the culture from which they emerge. Regards, Steve Diver == Book review in: Food Research International Volume 35, Issue 6 , 2002 , Pages 595-596 By Danji Fukushima Noda Institute for Scientific Research Noda-shi Chiba-ken 278-0037 Japan Science and Civilization in China, Volume 6, Part V: Fermentations and Food Science H. T. Huang. Cambridge University Press, 2001, pp. 741. ISBN 0-521-6527-7. Price: $150.00 This book is part of Science and Civilisation in China series and focused on the scientific basis and historical background of the fermentations and food processing technologies that are the mainstay of the Chinese dietary system. The Introduction described in Chapter (a) begins with a survey of the food resources in ancient China, and an account of how the food materials were prepared, cooked, and presented for consumption. It is followed by Chapter (b), which is a review on the literature and sources used in exploring the processing technology. The main topic appears in Chapter (c): the fermentation technology and its evolution to the production of alcoholic drinks in their various manifestations. Included also is a comparison of the very different technologies between East Asia and the West for converting grains into alcoholic beverages and an explanation of the reason for this difference. The next topic discussed in Chapter (d) is the processing of soybeans to convert to palatable, nutritious food products, such as bean curds (non-fermented) or soy nuggets, soy pastes, soy sauce (fermented), and others. Chapter (e) is on food processing and preservation, including pasta and filamentous noodles. The subsequent topic described in Chapter (f) is tea processing. Chapter (g) relates to nutrition, which is focused on the natural history of disease in China due to nutritional deficiency. Chapter (h) ends the volume with a series of reflections on how nature, technology, and human intervention have induced the discovery and innovation of processed foods in traditional China. The most characteristic feature in the fermentation technology in East Asia is the outstanding role of molded grain mass of Aspergillus, Rhizopus, and/or Mucor, known as chhu or koji. This unique ingredient, mold ferment, was developed originally for making alcoholic drinks from grains in ancient China, but there was no parallel invention in the early civilization in the West. The author has ascribed this difference to the nature (cultivated grains and environment) and technology (prior art of fabricating a pottery steamer) through the speculation from ancient classical literature. In China, the grains, which are millet and rice, contain soft kernels that can be directly boiled or steamed. The climate in China is hot and humid in summer. Plant residues of both grains are favorable to fungal growth. As a result, the air over the Neolithic communities in China might have been loaded with spores of these fungi. The conditions thus promoted must have been appropriate for spores to find a suitable site on the steamed granules to stimulate germination and growth thereafter. On the other hand, in ancient Sumeria and Egypt, the major grains were wheat and barley. Their hard kernels had to be ground into meal or flour before they could be cooked. A smooth paste prepared from flour would have a limited surface to attract airborne fungal
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Tony It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed. G - Original Message - From: Rambler Flowers LTD [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2003 9:31 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends - Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. Hi Glen. What species of birds? Thankyou Tony R
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 8:20 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends Tony It does not seem specific, just any eating the crop that is sprayed. G Glen I have had a major problem with birds this season in particular blackbirds,thrushes, starlings digging plants up out of the ground , between 50 -250 plants at a time. It became so bad this year that I had to cover crops with netting. it is also very frustrating to get blackberry and oldmans beard growing in amongst the crops. I even have them digging up mature broccoli plants in the vege garden. Along with sparrow I consider them a noxious pest along with rabbits and possums. Sparrow poop on flowers does not excite the consumer. Will bird scare help in this area? Thanks Ton y
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Garuda [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 7:57 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. Hi Glen. What species of birds? Thankyou Tony R
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Hi, Sorry, if I repeat someone elses comment. I haven't followed the discussion on this topic closely. Has anyone mentioned flying a hawke, kite, any bird of prey type of kite? Some grape growers are doing it here in Sunraysia, Victoria, Australia, and since they are doing it for several years, I assume they are having some effect. The main problem I think are honeyeaters sucking the sweet juicy grape berries. Yesterday I saw a cultural gem that brought a real happy smile to my face. I was driving a long the road, when something bright and colourful caught the corner of my eye. At the end of each row of fruit trees, I'ld say at least ten of them, huge stuffed scarecrows were put up in the most brightly coloured clothes; all human shape except for one that depicted a dragon or dinosaur. My guess is that school kids from the local primary school (they are very active here in hands on experiences having their own vege garden, planting trees, monitoring river salinity, breeding and releasing biological control agents etc.) made them and put them up. I do not know, if they work, but they are beautiful to look at, and I am sure the kids had a ball making them. Christiane
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
what kind of feathered friends? Bob
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
why, what was the problem ?? Gideon. - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:21 AM Subject: Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends Anyone with answers for TJH please sent them to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
why, what was the problem ?? Gideon. Sending mail with attachments after I asked him to fix the problem. If he corrects that technical difficulty, I will re-sub him. -Allan
Help with Our Feathered Friends
It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH begin:vcard n:; x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;; version:2.1 x-mozilla-cpt:;1536 end:vcard
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
We have a bird scare spray which has shown good results on various crops. We are beginning trial on grapes with HortResearch tomorrow and should have the results in a couple of months. Otherwise you could have a go. What is your crop? GA - Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BDNOW [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 5:32 AM Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
- Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BDNOW [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2003 3:32 AM Subject: Help with Our Feathered Friends It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH BD peppers applied at homeopathic potencies can work well, and applied radionically with a field broadcaster pipe can be very effective too, however its easier when the birds (or any mobile pest) have an alternative venue. You also need to be mad enough at the birds to kill one for the pepper or lucky enough to find a fresh one dead (road kill). Cheers Lloyd Charles
Re: Help with Our Feathered Friends
Anyone with answers for TJH please sent them to [EMAIL PROTECTED], I've removed 'him' from BD Now! -Allan It seems that our Feathered Friends really enjoy our crops. We have put reflector tape out, which only seems to work a few days. Does anyone have any workable solutions; physical, energetic or elemental? Thanks. TJH
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
You can go to www.addall.com they have the book there under used books. Half.com is selling it for $22.50 - Original Message - From: Spiritual Renaissance Center To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 9:58 PM Subject: Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called "Our Margin of Life" Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] begin:vcard n:; x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;; version:2.1 x-mozilla-cpt:;1536 end:vcard
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Here it is: Our Margin of Life by Eugene M. Poirot Alberto Machado wrote: Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow:Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] begin:vcard n:; x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;; version:2.1 x-mozilla-cpt:;1536 end:vcard
Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Dear all I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow: Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called "Our Margin of Life". 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Sincerly Albeerto Machado Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Help to find Eugene M. Poirot's book called Our Margin of Life
Alberto Machado wrote: I ask a favor please if any body knows where can I by the book bellow: Eugene M. Poirot wrote a book in 1950 called Our Margin of Life. 3 This book details his experiences in the restoration of soils and the health benefits to animals when fed crops grown on high vitality soils. His son-in-law, a veterinarian who practiced in the same town as I did, confirmed the accuracy of this account, here quoted from Poirot's book Email : [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] available from ACRES USA in paperback through Amazon.com or hardback through www.abebooks.com (run a search on the title) roger -- %% May I have given you seeds, that you can turn into roots, that will bear fruit in the future. (Rudolf Steiner) %% Reiki Healer, Earth Healing, Natural Energy Divination Earthcare Environmental Solutions
FW: Please help us close Indian Point
Title: FW: Please help us close Indian Point http://www.Riverkeeper.org Indian Point Dear Jane Sherry, On January 10th James Lee Witt, former head of the Federal Emergency Management Agency, who was commissioned by Gov. George Pataki to review the Indian Point Nuclear Energy Plants evacuation plans released his report. Pataki said he would use the report to determine if the plants in Buchanan should be shut down to protect the public. Witts report states that emergency evacuation plans in the event of a nuclear catastrophe at Indian Point are not able to protect the public from an unacceptable dose of radiation. The report criticized virtually every aspect of the regional evacuation plans, including the planning process, equipment, the plans' underlying premises, the ability to handle modern terrorist scenarios, communications between local agencies, and the size of the area that would be affected by a successful terrorist attack. It also characterized the elaborate, four-county drills held every two years as ineffective, challenged the premise that the public would not flee uncontrollably during an emergency, revealed a lack of trust by a majority of emergency responders, and stated that parents would not leave their children in schools to be rescued by volunteer bus drivers. The responsibility now falls upon Governor Pataki to act upon the recommendations of his own report and do everything within his power to close the plant and make the surrounding area as safe as possible for his constituents. Please follow the directions in this e-mail and take a few minutes to act upon our action alert, as it will make a significant difference in the plants closure. http://ga1.org/campaign/close_ip_lttr/w6xi67z27t76 Send a letter to the following decision maker(s): Governor George Pataki Below is the sample letter: Subject: Please Close Indian Point Nuclear Power Plant Dear [decision maker name automatically inserted here], The Indian Point nuclear power facility poses an unacceptable risk to the 20 million people who live in the New York metropolitan area. A terrorist attack on the facility could have devastating consequences, rendering much of the Hudson River Valley and the New York City metropolitan area uninhabitable. With 8% of the nation's population living around it, no other nuclear facility in America is in a more densely populated region. Last Friday, your own commissioned report was released by James Lee Witt, former director of FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency). The report was very clear, the evacuation plans for the Indian Point Nuclear Power Plants are inadequate to protect the public in the case of a catastrophic release of radiation at the plant. In December a number of Indian Point security guards came forward on Good Morning America and spoke to the NY Times and others about their concerns, saying they cannot protect the plant against a terrorist attack. In fact, an internal Entergy report was released that showed that only 19% of the security guards at the plant feel able and ready to defend the plant against a terrorist attack. Considering the ongoing safety and structural problems at the plant, and this new hard evidence that security and evacuation planning at Indian Point are wholly inadequate - now more than ever it is time for you to act, and act decisively. As Republican Congresswoman Sue Kelly did last Friday - you must call for the immediate closure of the Indian Point Nuclear Power Plant to protect all New Yorkers. Thank you for acting on our concerns. Sincerely, Jane Sherry http://ga1.org/campaign/close_ip_lttr/w6xi67z27t76 Take Action! Instructions: Click here to take action http://ga1.org/campaign/close_ip_lttr/w6xi67z27t76 on this issue or choose the Reply to Sender option on your email program. Tell-A-Friend: Visit the web address below to tell your friends about this. Tell-a-Friend! http://ga1.org/campaign/close_ip_lttr/forward/w6xi67z27t76 What's At Stake: Riverkeeper needs your help in safeguarding our community from the risks posed by the Indian Point Nuclear Power Plant. Last Friday, the Governor's own commissioned report was released by James Lee Witt, former director of FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency). The report was very clear, the evacuation plans for the Indian Point Nuclear Power Plants are inadequate to protect the public in the case of a catastrophic release of radiation at the plant. In December a number of Indian Point security guards came forward on Good Morning America and spoke to the NY Times and others about their concerns, saying they cannot protect the plant against a terrorist attack. In fact, an internal Entergy report was released that showed that only 19% of the security guards at the plant feel able and ready to defend the plant against a terrorist attack. Considering the ongoing safety and structural problems at the plant, and this new hard evidence that security and evacuation planning at Indian Point
Re: Best Chance to Help Cuban Elementals
greetings all: sorry to resend the first message but the original message is now a few weeks old, so, for this group it's ancient history. my question to everyone here is: has anyone picked up Carlos' (see original message) challenge? has anyone donated a subscription? i never saw a response even in the negative regarding this request. it seemed to suffer from the old Egyptian 'Mosiac death by silence'. or perhaps no one felt it was a particularly worthwhile cause? - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 7:13 PM Subject: Best Chance to Help Cuban Elementals Friends - Today I received a postcard from Carlos Alberta Hernandez M.S. of Villa Clara, Cuba. I am unable to assit him. Hopefully, someone on the list can step up to making this important publication available to this interested person in Cuba. -Allan He says: Dear Allan Balliett estimated (sic) colleague. Please, if available I need a free subscription to BIODYNAMICS: Farming in the 21st Century. Faithfully Yours, Carlos Alberta Hernandez M.Sc. Independeucia #126-B Camajuaui 52500 Villa Clara, Cuba
Re: Best Chance to Help Cuban Elementals
Wouldn't the BDA offer subscriptions to those who can't afford it? Christy
Re: Best Chance to Help Cuban Elementals
Wouldn't the BDA offer subscriptions to those who can't afford it? Christy I should have brought the group up to date on this: the BDA has offered a subscription to the requesters and, as I understand it, backissues to a Cuban university. Good work on the part of the BDA, eh? -Allan
Fwd: OFF: Need help with color work on the chakras
Status: U Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:13:42 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Request Please To: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Spam-Status: No, hits=0.0 required=10.0 tests=none version=2.43 X-Spam-Level: Allan, I need someone who can help with color work on the chakras. Are you able to recommend anyone with whom I can communicate via email? Thanks, Michael Do you Yahoo!? http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.comYahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.comSign up now
Re: Help with burying horn
Christy, We did the BC too last week. Finally got some manure locally. We dug a hole in one of our French intensive broccoli beds that was high and put 10 fire bricks (bigger than regular bricks) in an oval only 3 levels high. We potentized the manure with local basalt and eggshells I ground up in my suribachi and two sets of preps, put it in the hole and covered with a piece of plywood, then covered the whole area deeply with quaking aspen leaves I raked up from the driveway. Hope all is O.K. It rained a bunch last night. We're having a warm spell. A friend, Joe Clark, is lending me 14 horns. I saved some manure for them (I think I have enough) and hope to pick them up today. I was feeling glad I had put the bentonite in the horn this morning since it rained so much last night. Wouldn't the horn just fill up with water? Is that a good thing? Best, Merla The Korrows wrote: I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Re: Help with burying horn
Christy, It really rained heavily all night last night and I was thinking that it was a good thing I sealed that horn with bentonite. Would it have filled up with water and would that have been all right? Last week, Green and I dug an oval hole in our tallest French intensive bed which is in one of the warmest parts of the garden and put 10 fire bricks (larger than regular bricks) three tiers high in it. We potentized some local manure with local basalt that my husband identified and I ground up 3 dozen eggshells in my suribachi and put in two sets of compost preps, stirring the valerian for 20 minutes. We didn't quite fill up the hole because I held out some manure to fill 14 horns that Joe Clarke is lending me. I'll pick them up today or tomorrow and get them in during this warm spell. We covered the whole area with quaking aspen leaves. What ever happened with your video idea? Best, Merla The Korrows wrote: I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Help with burying horn
Speaking of manure(Frank, you are very scary to a neophyte like me, since I have no money to test my compost or my tea)...I am hoping that I have found my source for BC locally and will find out tomorrow if I can collect some cowpies off the pasture of two cows owned by the lady who started the Gardenia Center, the New Age Church in town, certainly not a feedlot, but a labor of love on her part, since she has to milk twice a day. I haven't talked to her about her motivation for having two milk cows on her place. I assume it's for the milk. I'll find out tomorrow. I'm ready to buy my horn, but we're wondering about our pocket gophers. We have a bunch and we don't plant garlic or carrots in the ground because of them. They also eat fruit tree roots. I hate trapping them so we just tolerate them. Though Venus is now in Scorpio, the little critters are hunkered down right now and hard to find. Is it all right to bury my horn in the garden in a chimney tile with bricks on each end to keep the possible nibblies out of the horn? I'm assuming that putting small mesh metal wire fencing material around it is worse. It's hard being so dumb that I'm having unnecessary worries about things like this and about whether the cow(s) are BD or not. Next question. Do I close the horn with bentonite clay? If so, how thick? Why didn't I think to ask this question when I bought my horn at Lovettsville? Thanks yet again, Merla
Re: Help with burying horn
I might suggest packing soil around the horn with in the clay tile, and if you think the bricks might get scooted around, you could tie some nylon screen over each end, as is sometimes done with stinging nettle. I know Hugh C. doesn't seal the manure horns with bentonite (I believe he does seal the silica horns up), neither do I or, neither does Jeff. I got my first stag bladder of the year yesterday. My neighbor Ron rode over on his four wheeler, pistol at his side, rifle in the holder, and a big buck tied to the front , he zoomed up and dangled a little bladder in front of me. So I am slowly gettting these guys trained. I am so happy your a re burrying a horn Merla!! Christy
Re: Help with burying horn
Hi Merla, plug the horn with clay and use it with the 500 when done. Use your powerful thoughts and great, wonderful, loving intentions, and place the horn in the sheath of the earth surrounded and protected by the light of the Christ. In the Spring when you go to dig it up I guarantee it will be fine. You can do it...Love, SStorch ps: your frogs are very happy here in Water Mill, NY
Re: Diabetes Dietary Help
Sharon, I grew up with bitter melon. There was always a vine or two we could pick from. I enjoy the taste and wish I could grow it easily here. My children, born in this Continent, would have none of it.. Both the leaves and fruit are edible. The leaves are boiled quickly and eaten as a salad with sliced tomatoes and some mild fish sauce (or sea salt) as seasoning. I also add it to mung bean or lentil soup; the leaves are added when the beans are cooked just before taking it out of the stove. The fruits are picked before they are ripe. Cut lengthwise into half and slice crosswise very thinly, immature seeds and all. Mix with sliced tomatoes, season with salt and eat as is. The thinly sliced fruit can be added to sauteed beef - typically this is seasoned with salted black beans. The fruit can also be cooked in a stew with eggplant, tomatoes and okra. Many of these dishes are delicacies in the Philippines. Bitter melon is part of the diet, eaten because its taste is prized and not for therapeutic purposes. I found out when I went back to the Philippines 5 years ago that the mature seeds are being used for diabetes. They are crushed and swallowed. I saw in some web articles that the leaves are dried, powdered and made into capsules or made into tea. Virginia - Original Message - From: kentjamescarson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 9:54 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help Hi Allen, I went out of my way to track down and grow bitter melon for my husband who has a mild diabetes. he tryed it but wouldn't eat it, the word bitter is in there for a reason. does anyone know of a reciepe to make it paletable? I dried it ,to make a powder that i can give him in capsels, but don't know if that would help or how much he should take. one thing you gardeners out there should grow it, if nothing else for the amazing show it preforms when the fruit ripens ., about a different melon, we just ate the best melon I have ever tasted.,JUst coming in in late sept.We've saved these seed about 5 years, .They originally came from Southern EXposure seed exchange,which specializes in mid Atlantic open pollinated seed. this cantaloupe is called Edisto. WowWE . had a bonfire, watched the exinox moon come up.. feels good to greet the fall. :)Sharon - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help BITTER MELON is available in Asian and Farmer's markets and in a supplement form. Technically a summer squash rather than a melon, its lumpy, ridged skin and flesh are the color of pale jade and it's similar in size and shape to a cucumber. Bitter melon is a traditional diabetic remedy throughout the Far East. In clinical tests, bitter melon inhibits glucose absorption, increases insulin flow and has insulin-like effects. I took some of Seeds of Changes lemon cucumbers as a gift to my favorite Asian restaurant. They said 'Melon, not cucumber.' I said 'No, you heathens, this is a cucumber, that's the irony!' their chef, with a cleaver in one hand and a LONG lemon cucumber in the other came out and said, through a translator: these two are the same. They are both MELON' At that point, I said 'well, fancy that, what a fool I've been!' I'm wondering, though, if the lemon cucumber were not 'sold as' a melon in the rest of the world (the ball nature being the uniqueness of this variety) I am aware, of course, that the cucumber is a variety of summer squash. -Allan
Re: Diabetes Dietary Help
Virginia , thanks so much for recipes to integrate the bitter melon into our diet.I only have one plant this season, it's small and late because of the drought, but have lots of seed from past years, to try again next year. It doesn't look like we'll get seed this year.I do have a seed list ,that I compile each year and will send it to anyone that might want it, or other op herbs, veggies or flowers. I save less than in years past, as the economics is not there, and we all need to put our energies to good use.But I experiment with new things each year and save seed from the old about 5 years before I compost them. It seems a shame that there isn't more interest in small scaleseeds. but it seems you have to be big enough to make the economics work. -so it is.:)sharon Original Message- From: Virginia Salares [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 9:35 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help Sharon, I grew up with bitter melon. There was always a vine or two we could pick from. I enjoy the taste and wish I could grow it easily here. My children, born in this Continent, would have none of it.. Both the leaves and fruit are edible. The leaves are boiled quickly and eaten as a salad with sliced tomatoes and some mild fish sauce (or sea salt) as seasoning. I also add it to mung bean or lentil soup; the leaves are added when the beans are cooked just before taking it out of the stove. The fruits are picked before they are ripe. Cut lengthwise into half and slice crosswise very thinly, immature seeds and all. Mix with sliced tomatoes, season with salt and eat as is. The thinly sliced fruit can be added to sauteed beef - typically this is seasoned with salted black beans. The fruit can also be cooked in a stew with eggplant, tomatoes and okra. Many of these dishes are delicacies in the Philippines. Bitter melon is part of the diet, eaten because its taste is prized and not for therapeutic purposes. I found out when I went back to the Philippines 5 years ago that the mature seeds are being used for diabetes. They are crushed and swallowed. I saw in some web articles that the leaves are dried, powdered and made into capsules or made into tea. Virginia - Original Message - From: kentjamescarson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 9:54 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help Hi Allen, I went out of my way to track down and grow bitter melon for my husband who has a mild diabetes. he tryed it but wouldn't eat it, the word bitter is in there for a reason. does anyone know of a reciepe to make it paletable? I dried it ,to make a powder that i can give him in capsels, but don't know if that would help or how much he should take. one thing you gardeners out there should grow it, if nothing else for the amazing show it preforms when the fruit ripens ., about a different melon, we just ate the best melon I have ever tasted.,JUst coming in in late sept.We've saved these seed about 5 years, .They originally came from Southern EXposure seed exchange,which specializes in mid Atlantic open pollinated seed. this cantaloupe is called Edisto. WowWE . had a bonfire, watched the exinox moon come up.. feels good to greet the fall. :)Sharon - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help BITTER MELON is available in Asian and Farmer's markets and in a supplement form. Technically a summer squash rather than a melon, its lumpy, ridged skin and flesh are the color of pale jade and it's similar in size and shape to a cucumber. Bitter melon is a traditional diabetic remedy throughout the Far East. In clinical tests, bitter melon inhibits glucose absorption, increases insulin flow and has insulin-like effects. I took some of Seeds of Changes lemon cucumbers as a gift to my favorite Asian restaurant. They said 'Melon, not cucumber.' I said 'No, you heathens, this is a cucumber, that's the irony!' their chef, with a cleaver in one hand and a LONG lemon cucumber in the other came out and said, through a translator: these two are the same. They are both MELON' At that point, I said 'well, fancy that, what a fool I've been!' I'm wondering, though, if the lemon cucumber were not 'sold as' a melon in the rest of the world (the ball nature being the uniqueness of this variety) I am aware, of course, that the cucumber is a variety of summer squash. -Allan
Diabetes Dietary Help
There have been on off dialogues on this list about diabetes. While visiting on of my favorite nutritionists' sites, I found the following article. See Rebecca's website for more info recipes: www.rebeccawood.com. For those of you who are not familiar with her work, Rebecca was a macrobiotic who studied with the Kushi's, then was diagnosed with cervical cancer which she beat, thru a variety of healing modalities, most specifically diet. That was over a dozen years ago and she is still cancer free. She is also a wonderful teacher if you have occasion to go to one of her classes in your area. JS Sept-Oct 2002 Q: Are there any natural foods that reduce the impact of diabetes? I have been warned that I might become insulin-dependent. -- Simon, Southampton, UK. A: Attention to diet and lifestyle has a profound effect upon non-insulin dependent diabetes. Diabetes, or high blood sugar, is a condition in which the body chronically has difficulty moving sugar from the bloodstream to the cells. Hypoglycemia, oftentimes a precursor of diabetes, occurs when there's not enough sugar in the blood. Diet can help stabilize blood sugar and avoid the unhealthy lows and highs of these two conditions. Consider what contributes to emotional, mental and physical balance in your life and make necessary adjustments to support that balance. This includes eating regular and moderate-sized meals and not skipping meals. Enjoy adequate sleep and regular, moderate exercise. Whole, unrefined grains and beans and an abundance of whole vegetables support stable blood sugar. The key is whole. Here's why; the fiber in a whole carrot, bean or grain helps stabilize blood sugar because it takes longer to digest, enabling its nutrients to slowly (rather than quickly) enter the bloodstream. If the carrot is juiced, its sugars speedily enter the bloodstream and create a rapid upswing of sugar, which stresses pancreatic function. It's the same with beans and grains. This is why a glass of soy milk is less filling than a bean burrito, or, why a bowl of Cheerios is less substantial than a bowl of oatmeal. For more details see articles on juicing, stress, and sugar cravings. Foods to avoid include alcohol, caffeine and all refined sugars. And, favor whole fruits rather than juice. The following foods specifically help regulate blood sugar and therefore are good for people with hypoglycemia and diabetes: BITTER MELON is available in Asian and Farmer's markets and in a supplement form. Technically a summer squash rather than a melon, its lumpy, ridged skin and flesh are the color of pale jade and it's similar in size and shape to a cucumber. Bitter melon is a traditional diabetic remedy throughout the Far East. In clinical tests, bitter melon inhibits glucose absorption, increases insulin flow and has insulin-like effects. FENUGREEK is a popular spice throughout the Middle East and India. This legume is smaller than a grain of wheat, mustard yellow in color and oddly shaped. It helps regulate sugar levels of non-insulin-dependent diabetics. Enjoy fenugreek as a tea, a spice (it's a common ingredient in curry) or sprout it and substitute for alfalfa sprouts in salads and sandwiches. STEVIA is a South American herb that is 30 times sweeter than sugar. Stevia helps regulate blood sugar and blood pressure. It also suppresses dental bacteria and reduces mental and physical fatigue. I find stevia easiest to use as a beverage sweetener. It's available in natural food stores in numerous forms: as a cut herb, in leaf form, as a liquid extract and blended with other sweeteners. SUNFLOWER FAMILY ROOTS include the roots of burdock, chicory, dandelion, Jerusalem artichoke, salsify and scorzonera. They contain inulin, a natural fructose that helps diabetics lower their blood sugar. Burdock and Jerusalem artichokes are available in the produce section of most natural food stores. Burdock, chicory and dandelion are available as dried herbs. Salsify and scorzonera are occasionally available with imported produce or may be grown in your garden. And, in temperate regions you may forage chicory, dandelion, Jerusalem artichokes and salsify root. ONION FAMILY members include onions, garlic, scallions and leeks. All onion family members help regulate blood sugar. This month's recipe is for Dandelions, Currants and Pine Nuts.
Re: Diabetes Dietary Help
Hi Allen, I went out of my way to track down and grow bitter melon for my husband who has a mild diabetes. he tryed it but wouldn't eat it, the word bitter is in there for a reason. does anyone know of a reciepe to make it paletable? I dried it ,to make a powder that i can give him in capsels, but don't know if that would help or how much he should take. one thing you gardeners out there should grow it, if nothing else for the amazing show it preforms when the fruit ripens ., about a different melon, we just ate the best melon I have ever tasted.,JUst coming in in late sept.We've saved these seed about 5 years, .They originally came from Southern EXposure seed exchange,which specializes in mid Atlantic open pollinated seed. this cantaloupe is called Edisto. WowWE . had a bonfire, watched the exinox moon come up.. feels good to greet the fall. :)Sharon - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Diabetes Dietary Help BITTER MELON is available in Asian and Farmer's markets and in a supplement form. Technically a summer squash rather than a melon, its lumpy, ridged skin and flesh are the color of pale jade and it's similar in size and shape to a cucumber. Bitter melon is a traditional diabetic remedy throughout the Far East. In clinical tests, bitter melon inhibits glucose absorption, increases insulin flow and has insulin-like effects. I took some of Seeds of Changes lemon cucumbers as a gift to my favorite Asian restaurant. They said 'Melon, not cucumber.' I said 'No, you heathens, this is a cucumber, that's the irony!' their chef, with a cleaver in one hand and a LONG lemon cucumber in the other came out and said, through a translator: these two are the same. They are both MELON' At that point, I said 'well, fancy that, what a fool I've been!' I'm wondering, though, if the lemon cucumber were not 'sold as' a melon in the rest of the world (the ball nature being the uniqueness of this variety) I am aware, of course, that the cucumber is a variety of summer squash. -Allan
Re: Need help
How many frogs/turtles for $250...sstorch
Hi S,
Do I remember correctly that you are Steve? Thanks for answering
my request. I feel an urgency to come to the Mid-Atlantic Conference.
It is a trip long deferred and an opportunity to meet you and many BD workers
who have given my day-to-day existence a lot more meaning.
Allan has made the first offer--a scholarship for the registration fee
for the conference. This is a big help to me and your interest is
the next step.
I wish I could send you pictures of my animals. Long ago I snailmailed
Allan a xerox page of four of my creatures. Maybe he will mail it
to you or put it on the list. I do not have a scanner. Maybe
I can get a neighbor to scan the page for me if Allan has lost it.
I have kodachrome slides of my work that I send in to galleries or to be
juried for shows and I had those four made into regular photos so I could
xerox them.
I have only been doing this for about eight years. I had no idea
I could work in three dimensions. I needed markers for the herbs
I sell on the Farmer's Market. I had a friend, Kaaren, who was a
25 year potter and she offered to show me how to make some markers.
This turned into a two-year apprenticeship. I never got past handbuilding!
The first animal I made was a large rabbit. She thought it would
collapse, then when it didn't, she thought it would explode in the kiln
and it didn't. It sits in one of my iris beds. It snowed on
it one year before I could take it in and I asked my husband to fetch it
for me. He went about the task with a shovel and knocked an ear off.
When I take this rabbit to shows, people always want to buy it, even with
the apparent ear repair. I just have a feel for handbuilding and
I know that all creatures are created equal.
How many pieces $250 would get you I don't know. The pieces are
priced according to how good I think they are--the proportions of the piece,
the glaze, everything. I sell the frogs to Mary Portera for $55 and
she doubles the price to her customers. Some I sell for more.
The turtles I usually sell her for $45-65 depending on the glaze and the
size.
The work that I am doing on the road right-of-way takes most of my creative
energy. I can't seem to pass up any opportunity to contribute to
the whole body of spiritual-political work that needs to be done and this
year I have hardly done any ceramics at all since the last Yuletide Show
at the Spokane Art School. This year I couldn't even come up with
slides of new pieces to send in for the jury for that show. I figured
out that I could make two firings between now and the conference and that
I would have to make three frogs a day this week. In the last two
days, I have made one frog and it's sitting on the shelf on its newspaper
in its plastic covering for the initial slow drying. If I try to
fire it before it's completely dry, it will explode in the kiln.
I went to this week's planning meeting for the Quaker Quarterly Meeting
in Ellensburg, Washington, September 27-9. The Sandpoint Meeting
is in charge. I missed the last meeting because I wrecked our new
little old '85 Toyota Tercel while trying to gently shake a spider off
my arm at 35 mph on a curvy Rapid Lightning Road. The spider let
itself off my arm with a thread and I was mesmerized for the instant that
took and missed a curve and hit a couple of small trees! Three pickup
trucks stopped and pulled me out of the deep ditch and one family who knew
my husband took me home. The bumper luckily took most of the energy
and was pushed in about a foot or so--enough to make a hole in the radiator.
Even though I had on a seatbelt, I broke the windshield with my head.
I was shaken up and only slightly injured and "Green," our friend, who
lives in our extra cabin and tends our garden, took me to a rehearsal I
had following the Quarterly Planning Meeting for the Human Rights benefit
"Hausmusik." It's really exciting to live like this, but a little
daunting at times. At this week's meeting, I learned that I had to
prepare to give a 10 minute talk on Percy Schmeiser at the Plenary, lead
the whole group in learning our theme song "Light One Candle," a song I
do not know yet, work with my co-leader on the Worship Sharing Sub-committee
to divide all the registrants into 12 groups of Worship Sharing, Worship
Walking and Worship Discussion, and make the final decision on queries
for Sunday. ("She Who Laughs, Lasts" is one of my ceramic plaques.)
What I'm trying to say to you, Steve, is that I don't know how many
pieces I'm going to be able to make, dry, handpaint and fire before October
3. Whether I sell them to you or to Mary Portera is moot. I
only have so much energy and time. I'll be 65 next Monday.
I have been trying to dig up my iris beds for years and finally did the
first one. It took four days of work to get it dug up, divided, all
the grass, rose campion and sulphur cinqfoil out of it, compost and compost
tea in, rhizomes replanted, and I was so t
Re: Need help
Hi! Merla, I wish I could help but am not in a position to do so. As a one time potter and a one time gallery owner, packing pottery is easy with lots of newspaper. Wrap each piece in at least six layers of paper, hold in place with two inch packaging tape. Then pack is strong cardboard cartons, with scrunched up paper packing between. It is important to fill each box so things can't move. (Using more scrunched paper). Then tape the carton firmly closed and do not trust the bottom, tape that also. Gil Merla Barberie wrote: How many frogs/turtles for $250...sstorch Hi S, Do I remember correctly that you are Steve? Thanks for answering my request. I feel an urgency to come to the Mid-Atlantic Conference. It is a trip long deferred and an opportunity to meet you and many BD workers who have given my day-to-day existence a lot more meaning.
Need help
Hi all, I want very much to come to the Mid-Atlantic BD Conference, but finances for flying to the East Coast are non-existent. I have one good chance and that is River Gallery in Chattanooga. The owner, Mary Portera, is a mentor and likes my work, but she wants to see the pieces before she buys them. I am working on making one-of-a-kind frogs and turtles now and hope that I can dry them, handpaint the glaze on each one and successfully fire them. I could bring them with me to the conference and then take them to Chattanooga for her to buy. Time is short and I have commitments here that will take my time and energy. I am on the planning committee for a Quaker Quarterly Meeting which happens the weekend before the Mid-Atlantic Conference. I don't know how many frogs and turtles I can finish. Is there anyone who could give or loan some money for my airfare roundtrip Spokane-Dulles-Spokane? I can pay for the ticket with money that is earmarked to pay part of our October bills, but I need to pay the bills when I get home. I could repay you over several months time. Is there anyone who lives near Chattanooga who could take me as far as your house on the way home from the Mid-Atlantic conference? I can get the rest of the way and then return to Dulles by Greyhound Bus. Thanks for any help you can give, Merla Barberie
Re: Need help
How many frogs/turtles for $250...sstorch
FW: [globalnews] Please HELP Tibetan Refugee Children -- Here'sHow!!!!
Title: FW: [globalnews] Please HELP Tibetan Refugee Children -- Here's How (This is from our friend Dr. Marsha. Please forward wherever you think it may help...thanks, Jane) --- The Tibetan Refugee Health Care Project Everyone has the possibility to shape the future of humanity. H.H. the XIV Dalai Lama Polluted water in Tibetan Childrens School September 8, 2002 Dear Friends, We are asking for tax-deductible donations to help with a water crisis in one of the Tibetan schools in India Their water is polluted and some of the children are getting sick. I am leaving for India in one week and intend to assess all the Tibetan schools (4) in that area. This will be an ongoing project. We hope to put in water purifiers wherever they are needed ASAP. In total, there are a few thousand students, including a small school for the Tibetan Handicapped. During the time I have worked with Tibetan refugees over the past 19 years, I have personally witnessed thousands of patients with compromised health as a result of water related problems. Now, one step at a time, we are trying to make a little difference. Last year we focused on bringing clean water to Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, nunnery, and college of higher learning in the Dehra Dun area. A number of the monks were getting very ill from the water and, in fact, one died. The situation is nearly under control there. We have 9 water systems in place with annual service contracts on all of them. At present, we need to move rather quickly to make the children's boarding schools safe. 100 % of all donations will go directly to the purchase, installation, and service of these water purification systems. The purification systems cost can range from $300 to $1000 per unit. Each school will need a few units. We would like to encourage youth to participate in fundraising efforts. We gladly accept donations from youth as well as the community. Tax deductible checks can be posted to the address listed below. We invite philanthropic organizations to join with us in this effort. For further information about our work, please see our website at www.tibetanrefugeehealth.org http://www.tibetanrefugeehealth.org/ On behalf of all Tibetan children, we thank you. With prayers, Marsha Woolf Director The Tibetan Refugee Health Care Project is an initiative of Alternative Resources Unlimited Inc.II, a 501c3 non-profit, non-political organization, which has existed since 1989, under the directorship of Marsha Woolf. It operates almost exclusively through donations and volunteer staff. TRHCP was created to facilitate medical treatment and disease prevention education among the over 135,000 Tibetans currently living in resettlement camps in India. We bring qualified volunteer health care professionals to these Tibetan communities to hold clinics and give treatments with a focus on acupuncture, nutritional education, self help skills, health talks, womens health education, and medical care. We also bring donated medical and health related supplies, as well as purchase sorely needed equipment or supplies directly in India. This has included dental equipment. The project has begun to expand its teams of health care professionals to include medical doctors, dentists, health educators, environmentalists, and other medical personnel, all on a volunteer basis. With proper funding the project plans to have mobile units, which will allow multiple teams to go to various camps simultaneously 101 W.23St.#158, NYC, NY 10011 Phone: 212-627-4757 Email:[EMAIL PROTECTED] web:www.tibetanrefugeehealth.org -- Be the change you want to see in the world. --Gandhi Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT http://rd.yahoo.com/M=233351.2287381.3722242.2225242/D=egroupweb/S=1705060682:HM/A=1212975/R=0/*http://www.gotomypc.com/u/tr/yh/grp/300_mapG/g22lp?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ . -- End of Forwarded Message
FW: [globalnews] Stop the War! Help MoveOn reach 100,000 signersfor Iraq message by Weds
*** ATTACHMENT AUTOMATICALLY REMOVED! **
Re: FW: [globalnews] Stop the War! Help MoveOn reach 100,000signers for Iraq message by Weds
(With apologies to Dave, I have been using the OT w/forwards from GlobalNews, but just can't get my mind around the idea that war is separate from agriculture, especially 'spiritual' agriculture. ...Jane) Before we start really fighting among ourselves, please consider that Kissinger has come out against invading Iraq, as, I'm sure you have noticed, has the US media. Kissinger is most definitely the voice of the powers that be. Not a dove, he. Brighter minds than mine have identified Kissinger's position as an indication that George W. is out on a limb. Myself, I think that this war is probably over for the time being. Aside from money being afraid of offending the Saudis, I cannot explain this, of course. But it's doubtful that recently weakened Western economies, like our own, could afford a petro shortage right now. -Allan
Help with 508
I've been working with a batch of equisetum tea of the past two weeks. I made it with a unit of 508 simmered in 1 gal of water per H.C.'s directions. I've stored the resultant tea in a clean heritage 5 gal crock in the back of our seed shed, where it's out of the sun and the temp stays relatively cool, even in our 100+ weather. I'm waiting for the 'characteristic' smell before making a D4 solution for storage. I'm not getting the 'characteristic' smell, which H.C. says is a 'just awful' odor. Instead, my tea has gone from smelling like oat straw tea to smelling like little or nothing. It's been two weeks. Anyone else have a 'problem' like this? To be frank, 508 has never 'gotten stinky' for me and I've always thought that the straw smell was the 'characteristic' smell. Help! Thanks Allan
Re: Help with 508
allen , on 508, i simmer the horsetail in rainwater as to jpi's instuctions for 20 minutes ,then put it in glass gallon jugs with the horsetail in it , store it behind the woodstove in the kitchen.,for 6 weeks . when opened it smells like rotten eggs , a sulfur smell that even permeates into the water when you spray it. i made the mistake in the past of forgetting to put the leaves into the jugwith the simmered tea and got the same oat straw results . you will definately know the smell, when you've got it. hope this helps. :)sharon - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 11:02 AM Subject: Help with 508 I've been working with a batch of equisetum tea of the past two weeks. I made it with a unit of 508 simmered in 1 gal of water per H.C.'s directions. I've stored the resultant tea in a clean heritage 5 gal crock in the back of our seed shed, where it's out of the sun and the temp stays relatively cool, even in our 100+ weather. I'm waiting for the 'characteristic' smell before making a D4 solution for storage. I'm not getting the 'characteristic' smell, which H.C. says is a 'just awful' odor. Instead, my tea has gone from smelling like oat straw tea to smelling like little or nothing. It's been two weeks. Anyone else have a 'problem' like this? To be frank, 508 has never 'gotten stinky' for me and I've always thought that the straw smell was the 'characteristic' smell. Help! Thanks Allan
Re: Help with 508
Also, I thought I remembered something about storing this in glass in a window, but maybe I am wrong. Did Courtney tell you to store it in a crock out of the light. My recollection was that it s.b. in a crock out of the sunlight. Of course, that's my recollection..
ADMIN: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
And, please, let's try to keep our subjects current, ok? Thanks -Allan
Re: Birchmeier was Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
Allan Balliett said: early payment helps us pay for the conference as we go. This is not a profit making event and every penny that comes in will go out again. I think the cut-off for the discounted rate is Sept. 1, so, if you need more time, that's the latest date you should shoot for. -Allan Sharon Carson said: please speak english to this simple soul in terms of the conference. You can also feel wecome to just call me. :) s My sentiments exactly, Sharon. What are YOU saying? Let me reiterate about the conference: it is pulled together each year by Maura and myself through the graces of the wonderful speakers and workshop leaders and through simple faith that such good intentions will be supported by the community the conference itself was created to support. Maura and I and our three kids live below the legal poverty level, as I'm sure many on this list do, in our pursuit of making a better America through example. (Not by example of intentional suffering, but by establishing public gardens that demonstrate the validity of gardening with Nature.) In clarification, sponsorship of the conference by the BDA is limited to paying Hugh Courtney's expenses and providing advertising in their Journal. Sponsorship by the Blue Ridge Center is limited to providing camping space and porta johns. The bulk of the support for the conference relies on the attendence of the holistic living community. Right now my ferverent prayer is that people from all parts of the earth bring their energy to this group endeavor. In the way of the world, the most pertinent form of energy right now is cash, especially cash through early enrollment, but, as usual, your prayers and positive intentions are greatly appreciated. For this and other reasons, I will not be able to make a call to you, unless it's a collect call, about the conference. I'm happy to entertain one from you at 540 668 6165. My phone hours are 5-6am Mon - Sat. and 8-10 pm on the same days. Thanks -Allan --achhh what does that mean ?:)sharon ... i don't know computerese well enough to figure out the atrtachments , bareely the humor. ,you'll have tpo walk me through it.. please speak english to this simple soul in terms of the conference . you can also feel wecome to just call me. :) s - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 6:52 PM Subject: Birchmeier was Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help OK. There's a lot of Birchmeier info at this url: http://www.geigerco.com/brch_iris.html Is this equipment avail at discount? Is there only one unit (IRIS) suitable for prep work? Do they offer accessory wands, nozzles, etc like Solo does? Are you certain that this sprayer will give my operation the sort of status that my Acres cap and the holes in my jacobs wool sweater(s) already do? thanks -Allan
Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
Title: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 19:54:58 EDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help In a message dated 8/1/02 4:09:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: birchmeirer sprayer it's Birchmier Try again: it's Birchmeier to be found here: www.birchmeier.com Daniel
Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
Title: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help thanks so much all :) sharon - Original Message - From: Daniel Bridler To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 5:36 PM Subject: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 19:54:58 EDTTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help In a message dated 8/1/02 4:09:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: birchmeirer sprayer it's BirchmierTry again: it's "Birchmeier" to be found here: www.birchmeier.comDaniel
Re: Birchmeier was Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
--achhh what does that mean ?:)sharon ... i don't know computerese well enough to figure out the atrtachments , bareely the humor. ,you'll have tpo walk me through it.. please speak english to this simple soul in terms of the conference . you can also feel wecome to just call me. :) s - Original Message - From: Allan Balliett [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 02, 2002 6:52 PM Subject: Birchmeier was Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help OK. There's a lot of Birchmeier info at this url: http://www.geigerco.com/brch_iris.html Is this equipment avail at discount? Is there only one unit (IRIS) suitable for prep work? Do they offer accessory wands, nozzles, etc like Solo does? Are you certain that this sprayer will give my operation the sort of status that my Acres cap and the holes in my jacobs wool sweater(s) already do? thanks -Allan
Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
In a message dated 8/1/02 4:09:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: birchmeirer sprayer it's Birchmier
Re: Spray Nozzles and Sprayers help
In a message dated 8/1/02 8:00:22 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: it's Birchmier I mean birchmeier
Help on buying a Refractometer
Hi all, I am trying to get the Weed Supervisor to O.K. the purchase of a refractometer on the Rapid Lightning cost/share grant. He never heard of one and wants me to find someone in our county who has before he will O.K. it. I have called Bob Wilson, the Extension Agent, but he hasn't returned my call. Called again. Surely he or someone can help, but failing that I will just have to try and convince the Weed Supervisor of the value of being able to test plants for their vigor 30 minutes after various applications. I have questions. Do I want ATC or not? What is the significance of .02 and .05 accuracy? What is the significance of the great cost difference among refractometers? How good a one do I need? What are people's experiences with their refractometers and which ones do you recommend and why? There must be more brands than I have named. I went over my old BD Now emails on the subject and came up with the following below. Thank you, Merla Rex Harrill P.O. Box 6, Keedysville, MD 21756 (301) 432-2979 Westover RHB-32ATC (automatic temperature control) $135 + $4.00 shipping by priority mail [probably out of date] Pike Instruments, Agri-Lab Supplies Inc., RR2, Box 710 Strong, ME 04983 (207) 684-5131 $125 (Acres USA) Gemplers, www.gemplers.com 1-800-382-8437 Economy Vista $164 +-.05 accuracy Atago N-la $189 +-.02 accuracy Atago ATC-1E $330 Char Downer, National Industrial Supply, 392 S. Miraleste Drive, #492, San Pedro,CA 90732 RHB-32 $59.99 RHB-32 ATC 65.99 www.brixpage.com www.crossroads.ws/brixbook/BBook.htm (Rex Harrill's booklet) http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Brix Talk On list awhile ago... Lloyd Charles I know that (but dont understand why) a lot of organic and BD certified producers are philosophicaly opposed to foliar nutrient applications. When farmers are in the situation where we dont have our soils in balance yet, or something else is wrong that has put our system off the track for a while and we are suffering insect or disease attack, or poor plant growth due to some nutritional disorder then is when we can make a major improvement in quality of produce by using the brix meter to monitor the crops response to a range of available foliar nutrients. And there are plenty of nice things to use this includes the BD preps, fish emulsion, kelp, worm juice, compost teas, manure teas, molasses, sugar, vinegar, etc etc as well as the host of proprietary brand stuff, and the so called nasties from the chemical companies ( we often use small quantities of say calcium nitrate -1/2 to 1 kg per hectare -combined with molasses and fish emulsion or 300 to 500 ml of food grade phosphoric acid with a molasses - kelp - fish - homebrew tea ) I use four small pump spray bottles from the supermarket to test for crop response - mix the different brews in the exact proportion that will be put out with the field sprayer, spray a meter square plot of each and measure the brix response half an hour later, you will often get a down response from a perfectly good material that is just not appropriate at the time - whichever bottle mix gives the best crop response (increased brix of crop and decreased brix of any weeds) is the one to use and less quantity is usually better than more The crop response (yield and quality ) that can be achieved at low cost using this method can be truly amazing. We have had several times where brews that ran around a dollar an acre material cost have given several bushels per acre more wheat as well as lessening the vigour of weeds in the crop. This is not rocket science and its not new either I read the brix mans online book this morning and would recommend it to all - and while it seems written more for the consumer than the producer - its good information - as also the book by Arden Andersen that is referred to there * * * * * Tony Robinson There is a method called Brix testing that a farmer can do himself. It uses a refractometer to measure suger levels in plants and fruit. When suger levels get above a certain level for each group of plants then you have reached a balanced soil energy level. A figure between 9-15 is my understanding. This is also subject that I would like to study this coming year. It is one of the means which Dan Skow uses in his book Mainline farming for the 21st Century to get his soil nutrient levels to balance and you can do it your self. * * * * * * Hugh Lovel Brix can be very revealing. But it is a bit more complex than just High brix equals high sugar and good taste with insect and disease resistance. Brix is a measure of dissolved solids, not all of which are sugars by any means. Salts and amino acids enter the picture for starters. High brix in the morning generally indicates the plant has not translocated its sugars to its roots and shed them to the soil overnight, feeding the soil food web. This, believe it or not, is highly desirable. If the plant does
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
- Original Message - From: Merla Barberie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: BD Now [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 6:10 AM Subject: Help on buying a Refractometer Hi Merla I have questions. Do I want ATC or not? Yes - it saves having to calibrate the thing repeatedly What is the significance of .02 and .05 accuracy? Most of us (unless you are an eagle eyed teenager) won't be able to read it accurately enough in the field to tell the difference What is the significance of the great cost difference among refractometers? a: retailer margin b: instrument quality (brand name) How good a one do I need? a decent middle of the road one will do fine - our meter man sells for $225 aussie - shoud be about US$110 to $140 for a ATC What are people's experiences with their refractometers and which ones do you recommend and why? There must be more brands than I have named. the real cheapest (of anything) has always got to be suspect for quality and lifespan. I bet if Herb was buying a rifle scope he would go without rather than buy the absolute cheapest one? If you get going with this take time to re read Hugh Lovel's post that you refer to here. You need to be aware that plant brix is a very mobile thing. The most value is in the comparison measurements that you make in the same place and at the same time . Even in half an hour the brix readings will change so that if you are measuring the effect of a test treatment you need to again measure the untreated at the same time. Your state of mind and thought patterns as you do it can effect the readings !! Cheers Lloyd Charles I went over my old BD Now emails on the subject and came up with the following below Thank you, Merla Rex Harrill P.O. Box 6, Keedysville, MD 21756 (301) 432-2979 Westover RHB-32ATC (automatic temperature control) $135 + $4.00 shipping by priority mail [probably out of date] Pike Instruments, Agri-Lab Supplies Inc., RR2, Box 710 Strong, ME 04983 (207) 684-5131 $125 (Acres USA) Gemplers, www.gemplers.com 1-800-382-8437 Economy Vista $164 +-.05 accuracy Atago N-la $189 +-.02 accuracy Atago ATC-1E $330 Char Downer, National Industrial Supply, 392 S. Miraleste Drive, #492, San Pedro,CA 90732 RHB-32 $59.99 RHB-32 ATC 65.99
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer Merla, Call Gempler's for their catalogue. The Super can ogle all the rubber gloves, tyvac, respirators, measuring cups, boots all. Then the refractometer will not seem so foreign. The product coach at Gempler's may be of help to give you the type of language that will cut through his poor hazy consciousness. They may even have a pamphlet to recommend. The call is free and they're friendly folks. They also have Plant stress detection glasses developed by NASA which may give you the information you want/need with a lot less work. Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. The glasses are $50 and he can see the changes too! best of Luck In Love Light Markess Hi all, I am trying to get the Weed Supervisor to O.K. the purchase of a refractometer on the Rapid Lightning cost/share grant. He never heard of one and wants me to find someone in our county who has before he will O.K. it. I have called Bob Wilson, the Extension Agent, but he hasn't returned my call. Called again. Surely he or someone can help, but failing that I will just have to try and convince the Weed Supervisor of the value of being able to test plants for their vigor 30 minutes after various applications.
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it from being impossible! -Allan
Re: Help on buying a Refractometer
Title: Re: Help on buying a Refractometer True a must have even for garden plants aside from fruit. Squeezing enough juice from roadside weeds to get readings will be difficult if not a lost cause. But a pair of those modified vise-grips from Pike Labs will keep it from being impossible! -Allan
japanese beetle help
Robert, a while back ,I'm not sure which issue of Applied Biodynamics there was a formula for a repellant for Japanese beetles using goatsmilk and honey.. I never tried it ,as we stopped having problems with them. I'm not sure why, but I will share an experience with you all. We bought 4 - bag a bug traps , because at that time ,we noticed more and more beetles each year. we hung them around the orchard, we had a deluge of beetles, they stripped the foliage off all the fruit trees ,even ate the tassles off the corn. we kept dumping bags of bugs in a 5 gallon bucket of water with a bit of oil in. it. over the coarse of the next few weeks we had trapped out5 ..5gallon buckets of bugs, they were most stinky, we dug a pit and buryed them. since then we see a few during the season but never a problem. I think we must have trapped most of them in sussex county! Try the goats milk and honey , see if it keeps them off, let everyone know if it works :)sharon - Original Message - From: Robert Farr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 8:13 PM Subject: Re: Nettle tea for insect repellant I'm having problems not only with flea beetles but japanese beetles. Any ideas out there? -- Robert Farr (540) 668-7160 The Chile Man * An organic farm producing hot sauce marinades, salsas, mustards, and barbecue. * Subscribe to our online newsletter at http://www.thechileman.com * Check out this article about us from The Washington Post: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/style/food/A8659-2001Jul17.html * Open Houses and Farm Tours throughout the year. See web site for details!
Re: Help support legislation on genetically engineered food/crops
Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed. Cheers, Peter.
Kirlian Photograph was Re: Help support legislation
Peter - Can you fill us in on Kirlian photography? i.e. why was this picture impressive to you? -Allan Hi Tony, I'm working on the homoeopathic principle. If you say it often enough one will eventually reach the right potency and the desired effect may manifest. Thanks for your post on the Meter Man I met him briefly at Mystry Creek. He had a briliant kirlian photograph of an organic wheat grain and a chemically fertilised. the difference had to be seen to be believed. Cheers, Peter.
Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?
Hello, I have licorice which I am not sure whether to consider a root or stem plant? Steven Foster says it is an underground stem, Richter's little plastic thing that came with the plant says the underground stolons are used for flavoring etc (oops, is that what a stolon is? An underground stem?). I guess I thought it was roots being used? Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use? Anyone know? I was thinking of using that little window this morning (8-11 am EST) to plant it even though we're just after the eclipse. One of them is begging to go into the ground, the other two are growing fast, and I would rather not wait a week. Anyone with experience? Thanks, Jane
RE: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?
Jane writes: Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use? Jane, I can't tell you too much about when to plant this guy, there are better experts here than I, but I can give my two cents about the plant medicinally. Generally, I favour using the herbs from where you are, so American Licorice (glabra) if you are over here. But, in this case, one point to consider is that in some people, Licorice can aggravate hypertension by causing sodium retention, and the Chinese Licorice (uralensis) has less of a tendency to do this than the American you have. I am not of the mindset that there are any inherently dangerous plants, and I don't want to be seen as being on the anti-Licorice (or Comfrey, or Chaparral, or whatever else suddenly becomes dangerous according to FDA) bandwagon. Unless your hypertension is severe, most of American Licorice's effects can be balanced out by extra water, potassium (i.e. take it with Dandelion), and moderation of use. But, just so you know, the Chinese does seem to act in a more balanced way at least regarding this issue. I do know that both are really easy to grow, and lovely in their rambling pea-vetchy way, I am quite fond of their wood candy roots. Both types contain amazing healing properties wrapped up in beautifully complex chemistries, I hope you get to know them well! Strength Wisdom, Micah Al-Qemi- Alchemical Spagyric products for healing body, spirit soul. Visit us on the web at: www.al-qemi.com http://www.al-qemi.com
Re: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant?
my experience with licorice root... i planted the russian version , yes you should plant the chinese.i didn't and just harvestedthe 4 yr old russian root last fall and it taste way yukkie! it may have the same medicinals or not ,but it is an abdaptagene so i think taste is important. so plant it in a pot on a root day and get some chinese.. live and learn :)sharon - Original Message - From: jsherry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Bdnow [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 8:41 AM Subject: Help with Glycyrrhiza glabra when to plant? Hello, I have licorice which I am not sure whether to consider a root or stem plant? Steven Foster says it is an underground stem, Richter's little plastic thing that came with the plant says the underground stolons are used for flavoring etc (oops, is that what a stolon is? An underground stem?). I guess I thought it was roots being used? Should I have gotten the Chinese variety for medicinal use? Anyone know? I was thinking of using that little window this morning (8-11 am EST) to plant it even though we're just after the eclipse. One of them is begging to go into the ground, the other two are growing fast, and I would rather not wait a week. Anyone with experience? Thanks, Jane
Re: Need help with ants.
In a message dated 4/25/02 2:59:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: As always, a fascinating insight. What specifically is formic acid's role in the environment, compared to other acids, such as carbonic for example? Formic acid, present in the minicscule amounts eminating from the bodies of the bees is highly stimullating to the flowers of plants, and therefore their reproductive capabilities and fruit production. It is really an essential ingredient in Nature. So, when it is lacking, as in the decline of the honey bees, Nature compensates by producing it in another way via the ants...SStorch
RE: Need help with ants.
Steve, As always, a fascinating insight. What specifically is formic acid's role in the environment, compared to other acids, such as carbonic for example? Thanks Stephen Barrow
Re: Need help with ants.
Thanks, Rex. I have plenty of ant hills to try this one too. Patti. Rex Tyler wrote: ants hate talcum powder it doesn't have to be expensive it knocks out their means of communication and an ant that can't communicate is one sick ant! Rex tyler - Original Message - From: Patti Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 12:10 PM Subject: Re: Need help with ants. Cheryl, Thanks very much for your information. I'll try the coffee grinds on one the ant hills and check out the archives. I've got several nests coming up around my place so I'll see what works in the next couple of weeks. I appreciate your help. Patti. Cheryl Kemp wrote: C:\My Documents\Fire Ant Management - Pest Management Technical Note.htm Dear Patti, just found I had this stored away! See if it helps - Steve Divers info is fantastic. We did have a discussion on BD Now a while ago - could be in the archives - and I remember that someone said that coffe grounds thrown on the heaps was helpful! Lets know what happens Best wishes Cheryl. Cheryl Kemp Education and Workshop Coordinator BDFGAA Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322 Home: 02 6657 5306 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] web: www.biodynamics.net.au - Original Message - From: Patti Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bdnow [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 12:41 PM Subject: Need help with ants. Hello everyone, I have been enjoying the posts here since the first of April. My name is Patti and I've been gardening on just a half an acre for four years and learning on my own. I'm a bit lost right now though on how to solve the same problem I have every year and one common to everyone in my area. In Georgia, where I live, we have fire ants who like to build their homes in the most inconvenient places--like right around my garden. I've tried to eliminate them with cayenne pepper which works after about four days but they only leave to start again a few feet away. Does anyone know how to rid an area of fire ants? Patti.
Re: Need help with ants.
It is quite possible that an infestation of ants is Nature's way of compensating for the lack of bees now in the environment. You have these ants because your place is lacking in formic acid [which the bees have too]. Try planting some stinging nettles or getting some bee hives on your place...SStorch
Re: Need help with ants.
Cheryl, Thanks very much for your information. I'll try the coffee grinds on one the ant hills and check out the archives. I've got several nests coming up around my place so I'll see what works in the next couple of weeks. I appreciate your help. Patti. Cheryl Kemp wrote: C:\My Documents\Fire Ant Management - Pest Management Technical Note.htm Dear Patti, just found I had this stored away! See if it helps - Steve Divers info is fantastic. We did have a discussion on BD Now a while ago - could be in the archives - and I remember that someone said that coffe grounds thrown on the heaps was helpful! Lets know what happens Best wishes Cheryl. Cheryl Kemp Education and Workshop Coordinator BDFGAA Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322 Home: 02 6657 5306 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] web: www.biodynamics.net.au - Original Message - From: Patti Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bdnow [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 12:41 PM Subject: Need help with ants. Hello everyone, I have been enjoying the posts here since the first of April. My name is Patti and I've been gardening on just a half an acre for four years and learning on my own. I'm a bit lost right now though on how to solve the same problem I have every year and one common to everyone in my area. In Georgia, where I live, we have fire ants who like to build their homes in the most inconvenient places--like right around my garden. I've tried to eliminate them with cayenne pepper which works after about four days but they only leave to start again a few feet away. Does anyone know how to rid an area of fire ants? Patti.
Re: Need help with ants.
Thanks Patti, I will be interested in how it works for you. Within the list there are folk with knowledge on a great number of subjects. Just ask. Gil Patti Berg wrote: Gil, Thanks for the welcome and especially for all the info. I will try them out today. This is a great place to get ideas and I appreciate that very much. I'll let you all know how in a about a week how I'm doing on the fire ants. Patti. Gil Robertson wrote: Hi! Patti, Welcome to the list. I am in Port Lincoln, Australia and there are a lot of us from Oz and NZ on the list. For most ants, the easiest way is to use Borax.
Re: Need help with ants.
C:\My Documents\Fire Ant Management - Pest Management Technical Note.htm Dear Patti, just found I had this stored away! See if it helps - Steve Divers info is fantastic. We did have a discussion on BD Now a while ago - could be in the archives - and I remember that someone said that coffe grounds thrown on the heaps was helpful! Lets know what happens Best wishes Cheryl. Cheryl Kemp Education and Workshop Coordinator BDFGAA Phone /Fax : 02 6657 5322 Home: 02 6657 5306 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] web: www.biodynamics.net.au - Original Message - From: Patti Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bdnow [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 12:41 PM Subject: Need help with ants. Hello everyone, I have been enjoying the posts here since the first of April. My name is Patti and I've been gardening on just a half an acre for four years and learning on my own. I'm a bit lost right now though on how to solve the same problem I have every year and one common to everyone in my area. In Georgia, where I live, we have fire ants who like to build their homes in the most inconvenient places--like right around my garden. I've tried to eliminate them with cayenne pepper which works after about four days but they only leave to start again a few feet away. Does anyone know how to rid an area of fire ants? Patti.
Re: Need help with ants.
Hi! Patti, Welcome to the list. I am in Port Lincoln, Australia and there are a lot of us from Oz and NZ on the list. For most ants, the easiest way is to use Borax. It is a white powder and sold in supermarkets in the same sort of area as Moth balls, Mentholated Spirits, Turps etc. Get a a small plastic container with a tight fitting lid. I use one about twice the size of match box, sold in sets of several in the plastics section of the super market. Make a couple of holes, big enough for the target ants, up quarter of inch or so from the bottom. Mix half a level tea spoon of Borax with about two or three of honey or jam. Place in the bottom of the container and seal. Place in an ant trail of the target specie. The ants will soon find it and take it home and eat it. It dehydrates the gut and kills them. The ant typically eats it's own dead, so the small amount of Borax will kill many ants. It generally takes four to ten days to wipe out an ant nest. Should another colony take over the same nest before the soil moisture dissipates the Borax, they will also use it. The small amount used is not a problem in the soil. The good thing about this method is that you can take out one target type of ant and leave other useful ones untouched. Gil Patti Berg wrote: Hello everyone, I have been enjoying the posts here since the first of April. My name is Patti and I've been gardening on just a half an acre for four years and learning on my own. I'm a bit lost right now though on how to solve the same problem I have every year and one common to everyone in my area. In Georgia, where I live, we have fire ants who like to build their homes in the most inconvenient places--like right around my garden. I've tried to eliminate them with cayenne pepper which works after about four days but they only leave to start again a few feet away. Does anyone know how to rid an area of fire ants? Patti.
Need help with ants.
Hello everyone, I have been enjoying the posts here since the first of April. My name is Patti and I've been gardening on just a half an acre for four years and learning on my own. I'm a bit lost right now though on how to solve the same problem I have every year and one common to everyone in my area. In Georgia, where I live, we have fire ants who like to build their homes in the most inconvenient places--like right around my garden. I've tried to eliminate them with cayenne pepper which works after about four days but they only leave to start again a few feet away. Does anyone know how to rid an area of fire ants? Patti.
Re: Fw: help!
Hi! Folk, This has been around for at least four years. I have twice been the 500th and received it dozens of times. The return address no longer exists and I have not been able to locate the original sender. But by all means keep it going. Gil Gideon Cowen wrote: - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 7:21 PM Subject: help! Subject: Please can you help - thanks The Brazilian congress is now voting on a project that will reduce the Amazon forest to 50% of its size. It will take 1 MINUTE to read this, but PLEASE
Re: Help Please
On Friday, March 15, 2002, at 06:08 AM, Bonnie York wrote: Hello bdnow friends, What would be beneficial to plant under apple trees? I'm asking about beneficial grasses. Clover? Rye? Alfalfa? Wheat?
Re: Need Help!!
Original Message From: Wayne and Sharon McEachern In reply Allan asked AND what else is in that broadcaster ?? Hi Wayne - do we assume that you have been putting the BD remedies out in the broadcaster?? Hopefully before and after the lime treatment. If not it seems a waste of a good opportunity. Regarding the sharecropping with friend I would suggest that you get Arden Andersen's book Science in Agriculture and both of you read it. Your scientific friend could easily mess up (probably will) trying to go organic on old pasture land with its huge weed seed population. The eco farmer approach may be enough to get him off the hook without doing a lot of damage to your land. There are some excellent tactics which are non toxic but not politically correct organically. F'r instance I have seen (done it) weed control almost as good as toxic herbicides, using a mixture of calcium nitrate and molasses after seeding - 2 kg + 4 litres / ha in water. There are many other things that can be done to get a decent result for both of you without doing damage to the soil. Believe me you do NOT want this guy putting atrazine out! Take care Lloyd Charles
re: need help
Wayne, Where is your property? If it is in Australia it would be a great shame, if economics would force you to have the pasture, if it is a native one, cultivated for cropping. For here in Australia, native grassland is the most threatened native vegetation habitat and with it its native specialised fauna, such as the Plain's Wanderer. Once, dug in, you'll never get it back and the animals are driven a bit closer to extinction. There are post-emergence tillage equipmetns, such as a Striegel' that take pretty good care of emerging weeds without damaging the crop too much, if it is sown at a slightly higher rate. Regards, Christiane Jaeger
Re: Need Help!!
Wayne, Your first responsibility is to your self and your land. Make the share cropper work to your terms. I failed to do this twice. The first time a share cropper used a herbicide and turned a really good clover paddock to Rye dominate, which took fifteen years to come back. The second time, an man leasing land to finnish 1,500 Spring lambs, spray topped some good country to avoid grass seeds and damaged more land. I think very hard without sharing my land. Paying for his new toy is not your responsibility and should not be done at the detriment of your land. Gil Wayne and Sharon McEachern wrote: Hi Folks-- I have a friend that is asking to work our 50 plus acres of mixed grass land this year. He is a scientific farmer -- but is interested in other possibilities -- and doesn't want to fail because he has a new bailer to pay for.
Re: Need Help!!
Given all of that -- we have a FB set up on the farm -- as mentioned, we have grasses (mixed) and this past year, we had the 50 acres treated with ag lime 1/2 ton to the acre -- and the remainder of application was treated with homeopathic lime potentized in the broadcaster. Wow -- right? two questions that are related to your question: how did you determine how much physical lime to apply AND have you done any testing of the potentized lime. OK, more questions: Exactly when did you apply the lime AND what else is in that broadcaster. And, I can tell you from personal experience: you don't want to turn your fields over to be farmed by someone who is not a farmer. If the questions you asked are from the man who wants to use your field, I'd back way off from him, especially in a drought year. Just my thoughts. _Allan
Re: Need Help!!
Thanks Allan -- please read on.. Allan Balliett wrote: Given all of that -- we have a FB set up on the farm -- as mentioned, we have grasses (mixed) and this past year, we had the 50 acres treated with ag lime 1/2 ton to the acre -- and the remainder of application was treated with homeopathic lime potentized in the broadcaster. Wow -- right? two questions that are related to your question: how did you determine how much physical lime to apply AND have you done any testing of the potentized lime. The work to set up the broadcaster was done through Lorraine -- and best I remember, we got the information in a coning working with the Devic community here on the farm -- then, with the 1/2 ton per acre determined -- Lorraine, with her connection to the prescribed coning (Devic community, et al) she determined the homeopathic potency for the broadcaster. No testing of the outcome has been done. OK, more questions: Exactly when did you apply the lime AND what else is in that broadcaster. Liming was done last Oct 2001, I believe. And the broadcaster was reprogrammed about that same time. And, I can tell you from personal experience: you don't want to turn your fields over to be farmed by someone who is not a farmer. If the questions you asked are from the man who wants to use your field, I'd back way off from him, especially in a drought year. Just my thoughts. _Allan Allan, friend is a good farmer -- but scientific. And, we are not working scientific. So, the questions are honest in that he is wishing to accommodate our needs and desires -- as long as it works and as long as he can make some $$. You know how it is when you work scientific -- you have your fields herbicided, then, you no till in what you wish and throw the nitrogen to it. So, he is wondering how much work he will need to put into the fields doing things our way -- and what can he expect in the crops. For instance, the corn -- it will have weeds -- or grasses -- no herbicides. With little to no inputs over the years -- and the FB running for little over a year -- might we expect good crops. Perhaps some of this is best answered by H. Lovel -- as he sorta knows the drill. (pun intended) Thanks again. Wayne *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* Sharon and Wayne McEachern http://www.LightExpression.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] A Divine Program for Healing and Transformation and Expressing the Light A Ministry Dedicated to the Divine Process *~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Re: Need Help!!
You know how it is when you work scientific -- you have your fields herbicided, then, you no till in what you wish and throw the nitrogen to it. So, he is wondering how much work he will need to put into the fields doing things our way -- and what can he expect in the crops. For instance, the corn -- it will have weeds -- or grasses -- no herbicides. With little to no inputs over the years -- and the FB running for little over a year -- might we expect good crops. wayne - I actually entered into a scenario like this at this time last year. My goal was to roll the agro-chemical no-till farmer who was leasing this land at the time that it became an enironmental preserve into a prosperous biological farmer. Only after a few conversations with him did I come to understand how distant his sense of the land was and how foreign actually interacting with the environment was for him. Even more to the point, he totally lacked the inner voice that we organic growers have, the one that keeps you in service to principle rather than in service to the-normal-american-factory-time-reality. Eventually, he gave up. He did give up before I did, but he gave up. I'm told that Mid-West Bioag and some other ACRES-found consulting companies have programs that make sense to chemical farmers. They even have ways of letting them use their 'chemical boxes' to let down some biological amendments. I rented a house to a fellow who was totally onboard with me as far as keeping the grounds biodynamic. I heard stories about him using Seven, but discounted them. Later, I found his chemical stash. He was putting shit down for diseases I've never heard of and from companies I've never seen before. Another neighbor told me that she always grew everything organically. (See 'Organic Horse Manure' says the bag) She dosed everything with SEVEN. When I asked her about that she said 'Well, you don't expect me to live with BUGS, do you? My point here is that it's really different world's. By the way, as a spiritual scientist, I guess I'm offended by your use of the word 'scientific agriculture,' eh? Later
FARM SUBSIDIES HELP THE BIG TO HELP THE LITTLE TO GET OUT
You can view farm subsidies in your state or county by going to http://www.ewg.org Check out the New York Times article below to get more insight into how the farm subsidies work against small farmers and how the federal government uses the subsidies to work against all farmers. -Allan QUOTE OF THE DAY = I don't like people knowing my business, but to be a viable farmer you have to have government support. -JOHN DOLLINGER, who raises corn in Minooka, Ill. http://www.nytimes.com/2001/12/27/national/27FARM.html?todaysheadlines
