Re: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement: do it yourself or shop?

[Craig Ellis]

I've wondered the same thing - how do you change out a universal joint?

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 9:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement: do it yourself or shop?


 Simple job, Jim. All you need is vise and a C clamp.

   Brian

 P.S. Cool '66 !!


 From: J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 To: Chevelle Group chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: [Chevelle-list] u-joint replacement:  do it yourself or shop?
 Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 18:44:45 -0800 (PST)
 
 While I'm pulling out my original rear, I thought new
 U-joints would probably be a good move as well.  Is
 this something I could do on my own with the right
 variety of tools?  Or, is this one of those jobs best
 left to the experts.
 
 My neighbor and I got the drums off tonight, and
 disconnected the E-brake cables..  We're looking to
 drop the old 3.08 open out tomorrow night.  Can't
 wait!!
 
 Regards,
 
 Jim
 '66 Malibu
 http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm
 
 __
 Do You Yahoo!?
 Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
 http://mail.yahoo.com
 

 _
 On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
 get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement

Re: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's

[Craig Ellis]

I agree. I routinely order from Jeg's and have it via UPS the next morning.
It's amazing. And they always fix my mistakes...and refund the shipping for
them. It's a first rate company.

- Original Message - 
From: Wayne Kline [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's


 I have use them both, Too many times according to my Wife.

 As with any sizable Co. with 1000's of transaction a day, Mistakes WILL
 happen.
 Both Co's  have solved any of my issues 1,000,000%, have that be defective
 part ,order by mistake, wrong item shipped or just don't want or need  it
.

 Was the truck loaded and gone?  Was it a lazy sales Rep ?  Or was he being
 honest and they did in fact  pack it  and ship that days orders that night
?

 I have received shipments on occasion from both  @ regular shipping,  the
 next Day.. I am in PA !

 YMMV

 One positive thing, I always have plenty of  boxes to ship things to our
 Grand children in AZ  :)





 From: Herb Lumpp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 To: Chevelle List chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: [Chevelle-list] Summit vs. Jeg's
 Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 05:38:15 -0500
 
 Now I know why I prefer Summit over Jeg's...
 
 A couple of times in the past when I placed internet orders from Summit,
 the
 next morning I realized I forgot something.  I'd call Summit, talk to the
 customer service rep and ask if I can add the forgotten items.  No
 problem
 the rep would say, what part numbers do you need to add?  Sure enough
my
 original order would arrive in one box along with a second box containing
 the forgotten items with no extra handling charge.
 
 Last night I ordered some stuff from Jeg's and sure enough I woke up this
 morning and damn it if I didn't forget something.  I called Jeg's a few
 minutes ago and the rep says Sorry, the box is already loaded on the
truck
 for shipping.  I know it's my own fault for forgetting, but at least
 Summit
 is willing to do something!
 
 Herb Lumpp
 http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
 
 

 _
 FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now!
 http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security

[Craig Ellis]

Killing is easy to talk about, hard to do, harder yet to live with. Times
have changed for the better, IMHO.

- Original Message - 
From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security


 Agreed.  Just wound them.  :)

 It wasn't long ago when you were justified in shooting someone trying to
 steal your horse.  And horse thieves were hanged.  Interesting how times
 have changed isn't it?

 Keith

 From: Larry Shouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Security
 Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 19:38:59 -0500
 I'm thinking I'll have to at least hide a switch to kill the ignition.
 
 Agreed. I don't think I would kill someone over a car.
 
 Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert

[Craig Ellis]

Shill bidder...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 2:02 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 
  Convert
  HOLY CRAP 
  SOMEONE BID ON IT!!! 

Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convert

[Craig Ellis]

Yup. Could not agree more.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 7:17 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 
  Convert
  
  
  In a message dated 12/5/05 7:07:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  writes:
  Shill bidder...
  I wouldn't doubt that some of those 'questions/comments' are kinda fishy 
  as well.
  
  -Kurt EhrhardtACES 
  1280, TC Gold 26366 SuperSport, 66 MalibuEnfield, 
CT

Re: [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion Auburn vs. Eaton

[Craig Ellis]

I don't know if anyone is aware of this but Eaton 
just bought Tractech, the makers of the Detroit Locker and other diff. 
components. Happened a few months ago...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 3:08 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Ring and 
  Pinion Auburn vs. Eaton
  
  Eaton units are better than the Auburns but that is my opinion 
  only. Besies, Eaton units are rebuildalble, Auburns are not. Will 
  a beefed up 8.2" rear be as strong as a stock 12 bolt, doubtful. I;ve 
  destroyed 10 bolt rears behind mildly built small blocks, I haven't blown up 
  the 12 bolt in my 70 yet that rests behind a 500 HP 454.
  
  Tom

Re: [Chevelle-list]Ebay 70 LS6 Convertible

[Craig Ellis]

I like that "buy now or wait until they're 2mil." I love 
Chevelles but anybody that pays that kind of money for a car that can be cloned 
so easily is brain dead. Gee whiz, they fake Picasso charcoal sketches that sell 
for a tenth of that. Why do people just believe these guys? For pete's sake, I 
could fake the photographs in a day or two with Photoshop and an old HotRod 
magazine. Build sheets? You can buy them on the internet. Cowl tags? Give me a 
break - there's a guy in every city who makes them. In today's muscle car 
market, there is not one single piece ofID on a 1970 Chevelle that is not 
faked and readily available. They fake passports -and that can land you in 
jail for a very, very long stretch. Why not fake build sheets - it's simple, 
cheap, won'tget you a roommate named Bubba, and can make youjust as 
much money.Anytime the money gets serious, the serious criminals put their 
single malt scotch down and get to work. They've been faking Chevelle 
documentation since the late 1990's when the best ones were only worth 
$25k.

Twotrack...
1970 SS owner with VIN docs from GM Canada...and a faked 
cowl tag because the exterior color was changedfrom raptor-poop brown to 
resale red and the interior from saddle to white. It cost $150 several years ago 
- they're probably cheaper now. 

[Chevelle-list] Ratios

[Craig Ellis]

I've been watching this go back and forth for a few days 
now. If the choice is between 3.73 and 4.10, why not use 3.92?

Craig E. 
"..I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do..."

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dan 
  Mascheck 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 7:14 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Ring and 
  Pinion
  
  
  While 
  3:73 may not be perfect, I’ll bet if you took a poll, 3:73 would win. I did 
  the same a year ago and went with the 3:73. 
  
  
  
  
  
  From: Ryan 
  Langstraat [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 9:29 
  PMTo: Chevelle Chat 
  ForumSubject: 
  [Chevelle-list] Ring and Pinion
  
  
  I know that gear ratio has been a 
  topic a lot lately but I am going to purchase my new set this week. I 
  noticed that some people are running 3:73's and was wondering how they liked 
  them as an all around gear. I noticed that Clint had mentioned that 
  3:73's were a marginal gear for the highway. I guess what I was 
  wondering was would a numerically lower gear set be a better route for a 
  cruizer? I would still like a little snap at times but I also dont want 
  to be running 4500rpm down the highway. I know there are formulas out 
  there but was wanting personal opinions from people that have cruizers. 
  Let me know what you think. 
  
  Glad I bought a bunch of parts 
  this week becuase it is snowing right now and I can hide in the 
  garage!
  
  
  
  Ryan


Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 
810-388-1345 
www.neagroup.com 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
NEA Automotive, Inc.
"The Expert 
Source"© for Automotive 
Professionals 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System-Dyno Run

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



CFM and ACFM (Actual CFM) are the same. SCFM is 
"Standard" CFM and assumes a specific barometric pressure, humidity, temp, etc. 
It is arrived at using a math formula applied to conditions at the time of the 
test. 

Since "air density" is greater in colder air, a greater 
amount of oxygen will be pumped into the motor at 60 degrees than at 90. The 
difference is considerable enough that the takeoff weight of aircraft is 
adjusted for temperature, etc.

Two-Track

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:36 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust 
  System-Dyno Run
  
  Clint,
  
  Everything you said about my engine is correct 
  except I did go with hydraulic roller lifters and roller rockers. My motor man 
  told me to set redline at 6800rpm.
  
  I had my dyno run today, and you are right. It 
  did make peak powerat 6000rpm.
  
  442hp @ 6000rpm
  467fp @ 4250rpm
  
  Just a point of interest, airflow was 720.3 scfm 
  @ 6250rpm, which is as high as they went. What does the "s" in front of the 
  cfm stand for?
  
  Videos -
  
  www.fuglybrothers.com/videos/dyno-setup.wmv
  
  www.fuglybrothers.com/videos/dyno-run.wmv
  
  Larry
  
  
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Clint Hooper 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:49 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust 
System

You guys have to remember that Larry's car 
isn't running a hyd lifter,oval port big block but a solid lifter,forged 
piston,four bolt main L78. Those things will easily rev to 7,000rpm and make 
their peak power well over 6,000rpm. It can handle a higher flow exhaust. I 
suggested 2.5" tailpipes because the exhaust velocity is reduced enough that 
the extra expense and more noise of 3" tailpipes isn't necessary on a BBC 
less than 427ci. The smaller tailpipes will help the low-end torque curve a 
noticeable amount and reduce the drone.
Very few streetable 400ci small blocks will 
have cylinder heads that can flow like L78 BBC's.
Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino 
ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

Re: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately

[Craig Ellis]

I've got the same problem. I think the spammers figured 
out how to beat the ISPs spam screening software. I noticed they are all sending 
pictures of text instead of text and that sort of thing. So, instead of getting 
Viagra posts I get stupid cartoons of characters USING Viagra. Just what I want 
my kids to see when they're looking over my shoulder watching me 
"work".
C

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 8:17 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM 
  lately
  
  
  Is it just me or 
  has there been an increase in spam lately? I was content with getting 
  5-10 each day, now it’s more like 50-60 since Thanksgiving. Can’t 
  ‘blame’ any ISP as I’m getting them through my ‘chevelle.com’ account as well 
  as ‘lcisp.com’ and ‘chevellestuff.com’.
  
  Maybe I need to get 
  more into the holiday spirit and share some with my Chevelle friends, 
  LOL.
  
  
  Dale 
  McIntosh
  67 El 
  Camino
  1967 ChevelleReference CDnow 
  available!
  ACES 
  #1709/TC Gold 
#92

Re: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM lately

[Craig Ellis]

That's a good idea, John. I'm going to change mine right 
now.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  John Nasta 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 9:45 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Lots of SPAM 
  lately
  
  
  First, your primary email address should 
  never be used on a list like this one, or posted publicly anywhere. Most 
  people have the ability to create and check more than one email account. 
  Create a separate address for public lists so that you can delete it and 
  create a new one if spam becomes a problem. Most of these lists have a 
  searchable archive, which is a great way to get email addresses. The address I 
  use for this list is only for list mail. This is also a good way to tell 
  whether or not subscribing to a list is causing you to get junk mail. I 
  recently changed my personal address because I was getting 50 to 100 junk 
  mails a day. My new address has never been posted anywhere and so far no junk 
  mail.
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System

[Craig Ellis]

Just my two cents but the old axiom "you drive torque 
and race horsepower" is true. Unless you actually bet folding money on street 
races or a drag strip regular, I'd choose the options that produce torque. I've 
got a BBC 402 that's .060 over - that's only 413 CI. Not to offend anyone out 
there with a BBC but that is a smallish motor and does not justify 3" exhaust or 
2" headers. All that stuff seems pretty cool but even the calculations argue 
against those sizes. I know that my motor will spin to 6500 but rare will be the 
day that it does. I routinely shift at 5500 and once in a blue moon spool it out 
to 6000. 1 and 3/4 headers and 2.5 exhaust produce the ideal torque and HP for a 
.550 lift cam. Notehow many400+ CI small blocks with 1 and 5/8 
headers and 2" exhaust are written up in HotRod and other mags. This subject has 
been studied for years and every time the results are the same. Once in a while 
one of the big motor builders will "reveal" that they put a 1000 CFM Dominator 
on a SBC with an RV cam and it ran like a scalded cat. You know as well as I do 
thatsomebody is zommin' somebody.I don't know about you, but every 
engine builder I've ever known would BS their mother if it won them more 
business or won races. If a motor combination sounds too good to be true...it 
probably is. Stick to the calculations and run the recommendations and you won't 
regret it.

Speaking from experience - the only "mistake" I made is 
to put a 770 CFM Holley Street Avenger onmy motor.It runs perfect 
but I am sure that a 670 CFM would have been the better choice. That motor just 
can not pump that much air. It's like octane - any more than is needed to 
eliminate preignition is wasted - and more carb volume and exhaust volume than 
needed to balance the pumping action of the motor is detrimental to performance. 
I was just another one of those guys that didn't want to stand around the car 
show and tell people "it's a 600 CFM Holley Wimpalator". But the fact is, the 
calculator said, as I recall, my engine should have a 600 - I just couldn't buy 
one.

Just my opinion.

- Original Message - 

  From: 
  Larry Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 8:48 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust 
  System
  
  Thanks to everyone for your input. I spent a few 
  hours going to all suggested websites, trying to learn what I can. Personal 
  experience based input is very important to me.
  
  It looks like we are pretty evenly split between 
  2.5 and 3 inch exhaust systems. I've heard (and please correct me if I'm 
  wrong) that having too much pipe could be detrimental to your torque numbers, 
  because you need a certain amount of back pressure to scavenge (pull) the 
  exhaust out...
  
  I guess the real question then becomes does my 
  396 with a Performer RPM Airgap intake and L78 heads redlining at 6500 - 6800 
  rpm move enough air to warrant 3 inch pipes. Is there a formula out there to 
  figure that kind of thing out? Of course I'm willing to pay for the 3 inch 
  systemif it sounds better and has no detrimental effect on my numbers 
  grin I found Clint's comments interesting, using 2" head pipes and 
  reducing down to 2.5" after the muffler...
  
  Thanks for putting up with my persistent stream 
  of questions here. As I dump all available dollars into this project while 
  dodging my wife's broom, I want to keep my future regrets to a 
  minimum.
  
  Thanks,
  Larry Shouse
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry Shouse 
To: Chevelle List 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 4:06 
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust 
System

It's time to buy me an exhaust system. The 
system will go on a fairly healthy normally aspirated 396 running L78 heads 
and Sanderson intermediate headers with 1 7/8" primaries and 3" collectors. 
Those of you in the know, please help me decide whether I should go with a 
2.5" system or a 3" system. Also, brand suggestions would be 
great.

Thanks,
Larry 
Shouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System

[Craig Ellis]

I've got a headers and a Dr. Gas x-pipe with Flowmaster 40s and it is the
best sounding BBC I have ever heard, bar none. The sound at idle with a .550
cam turns the head of anybody who has any kind of love for these cars,
period. It is music.

Craig E.
- Original Message - 
From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:35 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Exhaust System


 I have a Flowmaster system and while it might not be the best possible
 sounding system, and certainly an X-pipe is a better design than an
H-pipe,
 the kit is relatively inexpensive and super-easy to install. I also have a
 SB so it's tough to say how my opinion of the sound might be changed by
 hearing the same system on a BB. In terms of actual performance
comparisons,
 again I don't exactly have a high performance engine. I suppose 2.5 is
 enough for a SB.

 John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 chevelle on lateral-g forum

[Craig Ellis]

Very cool stuff.
- Original Message - 
From: mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 9:02 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 chevelle on lateral-g forum


 Thought you might like to see this. I think Clint has
 spoken of the things going on in the camaro world.
 Well some is very likely to bleed off into chevelles
 and I welcome it.  Hope you enjoy these.
 
 http://www.pinkeesrodshop.com/pinkees/040312r/
 
 mike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 __ 
 Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
 http://mail.yahoo.com

[Chevelle-list] Cold...

[Craig Ellis]

Many years ago I was spending a winter in Marquette, MI. The starter went 
in my truck in Decemberand i had to swap it out in my driveway. It was -15 
degrees below zero. The cold soaked through me until I actually ached. The 
memory of it is still with me today. I HATE winter

Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold...

[Craig Ellis]

My wife, kids and I went for a long walk along the river at a country park
today. Balmy 18 degrees with a windchill of one degree above zero. Came home
to find a carb rebuild kit had arrived from a Wisconsin Cub Cadet dealer.
Now I can do the carb on my 25 year old Cub tractor, mount up the 42 PTO
snowblower and get ready for the first decent storm. We got two or three
inches yesterday - wasn't worth startin' the tractor for

Just call me Two-track...


- Original Message - 
From: Keith Anderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 5:48 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Cold...


 We've had more than a few professional athletes around here do that to
their
 six figure plus rides.  Definitely not the brightest bulbs on the planet.

 Keith

 From: Brian Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold...
 Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 12:59:37 -0500
 I have a friend from Florida who was transplanted here (KY). On his first
 true winter day, he was watching people outside scraping frost and ice
from
 car windows. He had the bright idea of dumping boiling water on his
 windows!! And he had a college degree in something or other, obviously
not
 science!!
 
 Brian

Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?

[Craig Ellis]

Just to get things clarified here. One, "profits" go to 
the OWNERS, be they Japanese, Russian, American, or whatever. That is the way is 
should be, unless you believe that companies should not make profits or that 
profits should go to the government. Two, auto manufacturers source components 
with three things in mind: Price, quality, location, in that order. If you will 
build a transmission in Ohio for the same price and at the same quality of one 
built in British Columbia, chances are pretty good that the plant in Ohio will 
supply the OEM assembly plant in Ohio. There is nothing nefarious going on in 
the car business any more than there is in the oil business or the lumber 
business or the pharmaceutical business. Do the people in power at those 
companies look out for themselves? You bet they do. But remember that ALL people 
in ALL companies in ALL countries and in ALL industries do exactly the same 
thing - it is human nature. I was (and still am) a CPA and auditedinternal 
controls for years at companies like GM and Mayo Clinic. I know whereof I speak. 
Business managers have a responsibility to the owners of the company to make 
money for them. They have a responsibility to do everything in their power to 
accomplish that goal short of breaking the law. It's their job.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint Hooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:15 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
  home?
  
  Are the US-made Toyotas made in the USA or 
  assembled in the USA? Are their engines and transmissions made here? I know 
  their electronics are not made here. Neither are their rolling stock and 
  suspension components.
  If the companies are Japanese-owned,most of their 
  profits don't stay in America. 
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
  H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Matthew 
Post 
That's very interesting. 
So, it makes me wonder if that makes it an American car? Guess it 
depends on how you look at it. Either by where and by who it's made or 
who ultimately owns the company.At 03:32 PM 11/22/2005, you 
wrote:
I am one of those silent people 
  learning from eveyone else. First, I am the proud owner of a '65 
  Chevelle SS. Secondly, I work for a Japanese transplant parts 
  suppliers in Missouri. I can't say for all parts but I do know most 
  of the parts on American made Toyota's are made in the USA. 
  
From: Matthew Post [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net,"The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 13:12:18 -0800
Are there any vehicles that are ENTIRELY American built 
anymore? And by that I mean without Canadian or Mexican 
parts/assembly etc.? I doubt it. Larry makes a good point, 
but I believe those Japanese cars assembled here are made with mostly 
Japanese parts. They are assembled here to avoid the customs 
duties associated with finished goods, but GM and Ford do the same thing 
in Europe.
I guess my point is that the lines are very blurred. People 
can say "Buy American" and I'm all for it, but you have to wonder how 
much of the product is really American. Besides, the Japanese 
automaker pays taxes to Uncle Sam for selling their cars here, same as 
GM or Ford.
Matt
At 12:32 PM 11/22/2005, Larry Shouse wrote:

  I'm not ashamed of owning a Japanese vehicle. As 
  far as I'm concerned it's our right as an American to buy what we feel 
  to be the best fit and value for our given situation. Besides, many 
  "Japanese" cars and trucks are assembled here in the United States, 
  while many of our American vehicles are assembled in other countries. 
  Same goes for parts. You want to buy strictly American? That's your 
  right and I will defend your right to do so, but good luck 
  accomplishing your goal.
   
  Larry Shouse 
  
- Original Message - 
From: James Strunk 
To: The Chevelle 
Mailing List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 1:17 PM 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?
I have an idea,,no a suggestion,get rid of that 
japanese car,,anybody should be ashamed to own japanese cars,they 
restict owr big three automakers to a specific # of cars that can be 
sold in japan,, FAIR 
TRADE ??? I've said before,,If 
you see me in a japanese car or 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?

[Craig Ellis]

By the way, I just wrote a note to the LIST about 
profits and whatnot - I inadvertently wrote that note in a "reply" to a posted 
note by Clint Hooper but it was NOT intended to go to Clint. I just didn't think 
to create a new message for my little rant. So, I hope no one thought I was 
cranked up a Clint.

Just for the record, I wouldn't buy a Japanese car 
unless you had a gun pointed at me and I was pretty sure you'd pull the trigger. 
These days I am a recruiter in the automotive industry and recruit plant 
operations, engineering, and management people all over the country and mostly 
for domestic OEM suppliers. I know a lot about the business and Clint is exactly 
right: Unfair trade with China and other countries is killing us. What is even 
more apalling is that we are not only hiring the Chinese to make the parts, we 
are giving them the technology and education to do it. It is 
madness.

In my opinion, buy NOTHING made in China...not clothes, 
not toys, not car parts, nothing. It is the only message you can 
send.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint Hooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 7:28 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
  home?
  
  You guys can buy foreign cars all you want. It's 
  your right to do so. I own two GM vehicles and one Harley 
  Davidson.
  However,unfair trade with the Chineseis 
  what's killing our economy. Just look at ChinaMart's success.
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
  H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
James Strunk 


my bottom line,,,when ANYONE owns a 
japanese product,even if it's your rightyou ARE supporting a 
country that attacked and brutally killed american solders, such as my 
grandfather,,,that refuses to allow our products to be sold in their 
country,,,that's right,,exercise your right,,buy from a race that will not 
buy from US

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Marlon 
  Hanson 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 3:20 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
  home?
  
  I think the big picture is that too many of us our looking at our own 
  short term benefit, just as GM and Ford did in the 80s when they let the 
  Japanese take over the auto market. They went for short term quarter to 
  quarter gains profits so everyone in upper management could earn fat 
  bonuses and and stock would go up. Now we have in essense been "taken 
  over" and more ownership of what used to be OUR country is gradually 
  slipping completely out of American hands. Long term, thisCOULD 
  prove to be a significant problem for our grandchildren. We can't be sure, 
  but I do seem to recall that the brutality of every country we now buy 
  from during past wars. Our "prisoner abuses" are nothing compared to what 
  was done to our soldiers who were captured were subjected to in World War 
  II and since. And... Now that our funds are gradually funneling into the 
  middle east for gas and oil we know what their attitude toward personal 
  liberties are. All that money goes toward buying Ame! rica ... good for us 
  today. For our children? for our grandchildren? 
  I am a bit obstinate, but I carefully look at what I'm buying and try 
  to stay as American as possible. From Cars to Wal Mart, I must admit it is 
  getting harder and harder.
  Marlon.[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

I agree with all of you; but you're missing the big picture. James 
is right. The Japanese do not open their trading borders, not just 
forAutos but all products,with the same open arms that we 
do. Bottom line; follow the money. Where do those profit dollars really 
go after the cars are built in America? 

BTW, GM is closing 9[i think] plants and laying off 
some30,000 employees.

Rich-Original Message- From: Matthew Post 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: Nov 22, 2005 4:12 PM To: The Chevelle 
Mailing List , The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
home? Are there any vehicles that are ENTIRELY 
American built anymore? And by that I mean without Canadian or 
Mexican parts/assembly etc.? I doubt it. Larry makes a good 
point, but I believe those Japanese cars assembled here are made with 
mostly Japanese parts. They are assembled here to avoid the 
customs duties associated with finished goods, but GM and Ford do the 
same thing in Europe.I guess my point is that the lines are very 
blurred. People can say "Buy American" and 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?

[Craig Ellis]

Again, I hate to interject here but the Fed raises rates 
to check inflation because BUSINESS wants them to, not because government wants 
them to. 99.% of the people in the world do not know that inflation 
isTAX. It is not discussed by politicians and media because a) it is over 
the head of most media people and b) it is over the head of nearly all attorneys 
and our politicians are all attorneys. 

Inflation is the systematic devaluation of a currency. 
When you see the "national debt" number, what is not discussed is to whom that 
debt is owed. The fact is, the debt is owed almost entirely to American citizens 
(and their pension plans, IRAs and 401ks)in the form of US Treasury bills 
and notes and bonds (among which is the ubiquitous Savings Bond). Inflation 
benefits "net debtors", that is, people or countries or companies who owe more 
money in debt than is owed to them by others. The government is the biggest "net 
debtor" by a gigantic margin. Thus, inflation HELPS the government because it 
allows them to pay YOU back with dollars that have been "devalued"...that is, 
they are worth less than the dollars you loaned them when you bought the bond, 
T-bill, T-note, etc.

All you Vietnam era vets and citizens might remember 
that at the end of the Vietnam War the national debt was staggering. In fact, 
the US could not pay it off so the government, then under Richard Nixon, 
devalued the currency 25% in one day. And this was on top of inflation rates 
that ranged from 12% to 20% over the preceeding three or four years. Folks, this 
is "inflation" gone mad. Some of you might also remember stories about the 
inflation rate in Brazil being 100% per month and things like that. That, too, 
is just the government in power "devaluing" the currency. It happens all over 
the world, all the time.

If you really want to see true change in this country, 
demand that your schools teach people two things: The "time value of money" 
(also called "discounted cash flow" and how to figure it out) and the difference 
between "progressive" and "regressive" tax systems.If ordinary people 
understood these two things, every politician in office would be thrown out on 
his or herfat behind - Repulicans and Democrats alike. In fact, I'll go 
farther than that - if people understood the concept of regressive taxes alone 
every politician in office would be arrested and charged with sedition. The old 
saying "the rich get richer and the poor get poorer" exists not because rich 
people screw poor people but because the government screws poor people. They do 
this because they can - you see, the rich people "get it". They understand how 
the tax system works and how to circumvent the system. Poor people don't have 
the knowledge so they get screwed. It isn't a big conspiracy, it is your elected 
representatives creating a tax system that enables them to tax the people with 
the smallest voice - and that is you and me.

Finally, permit meto say that, I can teach ANYONE 
who graduated from high school these two ideas and the fact that our high 
schools do NOT teach these things is, IMHO, nearly criminal. I was taught these 
ideas in the first accounting class I took to become a CPA. Every CPA 
understands this stuff which is why all CPAs hate taxes. But that doesn't mean 
only CPAs "get it". This stuff is pretty easy when it is taught 
properly.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Matthew Post 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 11:47 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
  home?
  I'm going to have to respectfully 
  disagree. Like I said, if the media tells people an economic indicator 
  came in "worse than expected" it's perceived as bad. Even if an 
  indicator may be trending downward, it still can be very strong. GDP has 
  been clipping along at above 3% for several quarters in a row  
  unemployment is low at 5%. If the economics of the US are so bad, why 
  would the FED continue to raise interest rates? Fact is the economy is 
  doing well, so they are raising interest rates to prevent inflation. 
  Believe it or not, the post-Katrina effect is going to be positive for the 
  economy. Construction, building materials, etc. Of course, all 
  this building is being fueled by government spending. The negative 
  effect of Katrina will be inflation which the FED hopes to prevent and higher 
  deficits. The deficit is being funded by foreign investment at a pace of 
  $100 Billion a Month. So, the US is screwed when other countries won't 
  fund our spending.At 04:54 PM 11/22/2005, Clint Hooper wrote:
  Germany's 
reunification with Combloc East Germany is the main reason for their 
struggles,at the moment. It's certainly not us kicking their butts. As for 
France,who the heck cares? GI'm an optimist but the US economy 
isn't doing that well,Matt. Most of the economic indicators are trending 
downward. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone home?

[Craig Ellis]

Aint it the truth, Clint. Reagan once announced in a 
speech that "inflation is tax".The media people didn't understand it so 
they never attacked him for it. Lucky for Reagan, most media people can't figure 
out whether they should lease their new Chevy or buy it.For that matter, 
neither can anyone else because they don't teach the concept in school...they're 
too busy teaching gay tolerance and Ebonics.

Just for the record, my idea of "gun control" is putting 
the second round through the same hole as the first.

- Original Message - 

  From: 
  Clint Hooper 
  
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 3:43 
  PM
  Subject: Fw: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
  home?
  
  Yep,Ronald Reagan said it best. "Government takes 
  from the needy and gives to the greedy."
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
  H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Craig Ellis 
  
  
  Again, I hate to interject here but the Fed raises 
  rates to check inflation because BUSINESS wants them to, not because 
  government wants them to. 99.% of the people in the world do not know that 
  inflation isTAX. It is not discussed by politicians and media because a) 
  it is over the head of most media people and b) it is over the head of nearly 
  all attorneys and our politicians are all attorneys. 
  
  Inflation is the systematic devaluation of a currency. 
  When you see the "national debt" number, what is not discussed is to whom that 
  debt is owed. The fact is, the debt is owed almost entirely to American 
  citizens (and their pension plans, IRAs and 401ks)in the form of US 
  Treasury bills and notes and bonds (among which is the ubiquitous Savings 
  Bond). Inflation benefits "net debtors", that is, people or countries or 
  companies who owe more money in debt than is owed to them by others. The 
  government is the biggest "net debtor" by a gigantic margin. Thus, inflation 
  HELPS the government because it allows them to pay YOU back with dollars that 
  have been "devalued"...that is, they are worth less than the dollars you 
  loaned them when you bought the bond, T-bill, T-note, etc.
  
  All you Vietnam era vets and citizens might remember 
  that at the end of the Vietnam War the national debt was staggering. In fact, 
  the US could not pay it off so the government, then under Richard Nixon, 
  devalued the currency 25% in one day. And this was on top of inflation rates 
  that ranged from 12% to 20% over the preceeding three or four years. Folks, 
  this is "inflation" gone mad. Some of you might also remember stories about 
  the inflation rate in Brazil being 100% per month and things like that. That, 
  too, is just the government in power "devaluing" the currency. It happens all 
  over the world, all the time.
  
  If you really want to see true change in this country, 
  demand that your schools teach people two things: The "time value of money" 
  (also called "discounted cash flow" and how to figure it out) and the 
  difference between "progressive" and "regressive" tax systems.If 
  ordinary people understood these two things, every politician in office would 
  be thrown out on his or herfat behind - Repulicans and Democrats alike. 
  In fact, I'll go farther than that - if people understood the concept of 
  regressive taxes alone every politician in office would be arrested and 
  charged with sedition. The old saying "the rich get richer and the poor get 
  poorer" exists not because rich people screw poor people but because the 
  government screws poor people. They do this because they can - you see, the 
  rich people "get it". They understand how the tax system works and how to 
  circumvent the system. Poor people don't have the knowledge so they get 
  screwed. It isn't a big conspiracy, it is your elected representatives 
  creating a tax system that enables them to tax the people with the smallest 
  voice - and that is you and me.
  
  Finally, permit meto say that, I can teach 
  ANYONE who graduated from high school these two ideas and the fact that our 
  high schools do NOT teach these things is, IMHO, nearly criminal. I was taught 
  these ideas in the first accounting class I took to become a CPA. Every CPA 
  understands this stuff which is why all CPAs hate taxes. But that doesn't mean 
  only CPAs "get it". This stuff is pretty easy when it is taught 
  properly.
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Matthew 
Post 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 
11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone 
home?
I'm going to have to respectfully 
disagree. Like I said, if the med

Re: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject

[Craig Ellis]

Not in a gazillion years. The shop owner is out of ideas alright. Now his
big idea is to avoid fixing his mistake...at your expense.

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Cc: David Hillberry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Advice - Off Subject


 I had a 2001 Acura GSR rebuilt recently at a small shop.  The engine has
 a persistent oil leak.  Somewhere in the head area - either the cam
 seals or head gasket.  The seals have been replaced 2X, oil pressure
 sender replaced,  and the head gasket re-torqued, and it still leaks one
 or two drops on the driveway daily, and deposits oil all over the lower
 engine.

 The shop owner is out of ideas and wants to put an oil additive in that
 stops oil leaks - probably will swell the seals.

 Would you guys try this?

 Larry Williams

[Chevelle-list] My 70 Chevelle SS

[Craig Ellis]

If anyone on the list is interested, I am putting my 1970 Chevelle SS up 
for sale. I came across a new project yesterday that I am going to do and I'm 
gonna need some dough.

My car is on www.neagroup.com/1970chevelle.htm 
and there is some history on the car there as well. The car was built in Oshawa, 
Ontario, and I got the original VIN package from Genera Motors Canada so it is 
indeed a true SS as documented by the factory. The block vanished somewhere 
along the line and the nimrod that rebuilt the trans gave me a '65 Vette trans 
and the Vette owner got my Chevelle's trans - they are identical except for 
numbers but back in 1990, nobody really cared all that much about matching 
numbers. Oh well.

The car runs excellent. Some things need to be done to "finish" it. I've 
got a spare SS dash that is in excellent condition and ideal for a full resto. 
The original dash has an oil pressure guage installed next to the radio. I don't 
mind having that guage so I never bothered restoring the dash. However, over the 
last couple of years, the speedo quit and the gas guage is incorrect. Also, the 
tach is incorrect - it's off by 500 RPM at idle and as RPMs climb it gets 
progressively more accurate until around 4000 RPM it is correct. I have a new 
tach for it but have not gotten around to putting it in.

There are a couple stone chips (I drive this car) and a little scar at the 
trailing edge of the passenger side door that has been touched up. Otherwise, 
the paint is excellent and the bodywork is straight as an arrow. The belly pan 
is painted red like the topsides. The frame is flawless - the car was never hit 
or damaged and is perfect. I had it up on a frame straightener years ago to 
check it dimensionally for squareness, etc., and it is perfect. You will not 
find a better frame - it is A+. The rest is pretty much as described on the 
website. I pull a plug now and then and they look perfect coffee  cream 
color. The car runs excellent. New radiator - it'll sit there and idle for days 
and never overheat. The engine was done by Tyler Crockett for those of you who 
are from Michigan and might know him. He's the leading BBC guy for the offshore 
boat crowd (I'm right on Lake Huron) and is the best there is - has a dyno 
onsite, etc., as well as does all his own machine work. The motor is 
perfect.

I hate to let her go but I stumbled across a new project yesterday and 
can't help myself. If interested, let me know. It'll be out on that internet 
sales lot by the end of the week.I have it insured with Haggerty for 
$35kso, please, serious offers only. It's stored indoors, covered, and 
will start and drive off instantly so anyone interested in test drives is 
welcome. All the original numbers matching parts (heads, etc.) go with the car 
along with the spare dash and a NOS dash pad (that's probably $1500 right there 
in today's market). The AC is not installed (took it out to put in the cam) but 
it is stored and works perfectly as goes with the car - even has the original AC 
compressor. I even have the original axles and gearset. Call me at 810-650-8435 
to discuss.

TTFN,

Craig E.

Re: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32

[Craig Ellis]

Cracks on BBC starter mounts are almost always the result of using the wrong
bolt. Starter bolts have knurling between the threads and the head that is
meant to fit tightly in the block to absorb the torque of the starter. The
bolts are different for each starter (auto, stick are different) and may
even differ from year to year. If you have an original starter, rebuild it
and reuse it and use the exact correct length and grade bolt. In other
words, use the original bolts...

Also, I have heard the bolts are no longer being produced. There are
companies out there that claim they have them, but they do not have the
correct bolt. The moral of the story is don't throw your old bolts out...


- Original Message - 
From: BILL HINDMAN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:41 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] RE: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32


 Does anyone have any information concerning mini-starters cracking in
 the bolt holes on big blocks. Have to use mini's because of headers.
 Thanks,  Bill

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 11:35 AM
 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 28, Issue 32


 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to
 Chevelle-list@chevelles.net

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

 http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 You can reach the person managing the list at
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
 Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest...

Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions

[Craig Ellis]

Clint, what top speed would 6000 RPM generate with that 
diameter tire?

Craig E.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint Hooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 9:16 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
  questions
  
  I'm running 4.11 cogs in back. In 4th gear at 
  70mph,I'm seeing 4,000rpm. In 5th,3,000rpm. And,in 6th,2,000rpm.
  These numbers are with a 26" diameter 335/35/17 
  tire.
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
  H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron 
Menchey 

I think 4.10 are a tad too steep for me,I like 
to go on a cruise and not have the engine whine that high at cruise 
speed.But your car,ya can do what floats your boat.

Ron

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Craig 
  Ellis 
  
  I agree. I've got 3.42s and I'm changing them out 
  this winter for 4.10s...
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron Menchey 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 
4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
questions

Yep I know that,just think the 3:73's will 
give it more zip through first and second,that is if I still want to 
race.
Thanks
Ron

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill Lessenberry 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 
  2005 10:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
  questions
  You do realize that a 4 speed will not change the 
  engine speed don't you? 4th gear is 1:1 just like 3rd is 
  1:1 in the automatic. You'll have to get a 5 speed to have an 
  overdrive.BillLAt 08:29 AM 11/2/2005, you wrote:
  I 
was using the stock 3:21..350 with auto..then I had the engine built 
to around 425 hp and installed a 3:73 so I could drag race every so 
often..I was thinking of going back to the 3:21 cuz I get tired of 
hearing the engine whine but now I am thinking of switching to a 4 
sp so the gears I have in it will be fine.Ron

Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 questions

[Craig Ellis]

Clint - I should have said, what top speed would 6000 
RPM generate in FOURTH GEAR with those tires!!

Thanks.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint Hooper 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 9:16 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
  questions
  
  I'm running 4.11 cogs in back. In 4th gear at 
  70mph,I'm seeing 4,000rpm. In 5th,3,000rpm. And,in 6th,2,000rpm.
  These numbers are with a 26" diameter 335/35/17 
  tire.
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 
  H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron 
Menchey 

I think 4.10 are a tad too steep for me,I like 
to go on a cruise and not have the engine whine that high at cruise 
speed.But your car,ya can do what floats your boat.

Ron

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Craig 
  Ellis 
  
  I agree. I've got 3.42s and I'm changing them out 
  this winter for 4.10s...
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron Menchey 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 
4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
questions

Yep I know that,just think the 3:73's will 
give it more zip through first and second,that is if I still want to 
race.
Thanks
Ron

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Bill Lessenberry 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 
  2005 10:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 
  questions
  You do realize that a 4 speed will not change the 
  engine speed don't you? 4th gear is 1:1 just like 3rd is 
  1:1 in the automatic. You'll have to get a 5 speed to have an 
  overdrive.BillLAt 08:29 AM 11/2/2005, you wrote:
  I 
was using the stock 3:21..350 with auto..then I had the engine built 
to around 425 hp and installed a 3:73 so I could drag race every so 
often..I was thinking of going back to the 3:21 cuz I get tired of 
hearing the engine whine but now I am thinking of switching to a 4 
sp so the gears I have in it will be fine.Ron

[Chevelle-list] Trans info

[Craig Ellis]

I stumbled across this last night while doing some research on my Dodge Ram 
transmission. This newsletter has some good content about what's up with the 
various transmissions and fluids. 

http://www.accuratetrans.com/newsletter.html



Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 
810-388-1345 
www.neagroup.com 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
NEA Automotive, Inc.
"The Expert 
Source" for Automotive Professionals 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - Question regarding restification sequence

[Craig Ellis]

I agree. The only way to do a resto is on the roll 
unless you can get the frame  body done in one winter. That means you must 
havea pro to do the bodywork and paint and another outfit blast and paint 
the frame. Then, it's the "If you give a mouse a cookie" routine...first you'll 
need a Currie rearend, then tubular A-arms, the Baer brakes, then a woopie 
radiator, and on and on and on and on. Then your wife will leave you anyway 
because, when the day is done, they really don't care all that much about cars. 
Then you'll be sitting in your garage with a six pack of cheap beer surrounded 
by car parts that you can't remember how they fit together. But at least 
you'll have a six pack...

Just put a BBC and a stick in it and do the rest as the 
parts break...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Pelle Andersson 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 1:34 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - 
  Question regarding restification sequence
  
  Listen to John!
  I'm doing a rolling restore just to avoid the far 
  too common pitfalls.
  (Not enogh cash, time, energy, knowledge 
  etc.)
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
John Nasta 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:30 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Newbie - 
Question regarding restification sequence


1) get the car back

2) drive it for a year or 
two

3) work out any mechanical problems in 
the meantime

4) get it painted if it needs 
it

5) keep driving it

A restoration like you are talking 
about takes a lot of time and a lot of money, and most people end up not 
wanting to drive the car after that much work, or everywhere they go they 
worry about every little thing. You also don’t want to take it apart until 
you are very familiar with it, and you have to realize that once you start 
taking it apart it's going to be a long time before it's back together. My 
advice is to just enjoy it for a while before you do anything 
else.

Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for

[Craig Ellis]

Go to ebay, put "swivel bucket seats" in quotes 
selectthe box for searching title and descriptionand search. Then 
create a robot. It'll be a matter of weeks before one appears.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ron 
  Menchey 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 7:28 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] looking 
for
  
  Don't know if any of you can help me or not but 
  it will be a start.I have been looking for a 1977 Malibu classic station wagon 
  for years..I am looking for the one that has the center console with swivel 
  bucket seats...WE had a new one and loved it,at least till it was totaled by a 
  snow plow LOL..I have never seen one for sale any where..So if any of you chev 
  guys hears of one PLEASE get back to me
  
  Thanks so much
  Ron
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil

[Craig Ellis]

For what it's worth, a few years 
ago Consumers Reports did an extensive analysis of oil in a fleet of 60 New York 
taxicabs and ran them 60,000 miles tearing the motors down and rebuilding before 
and after. Their conclusion: Change every 6k and any ordinary 10w30 oil does 
just fine. The benefits from Mobil One changed at either 15k or 6k miles were 
unmeasureable and the benefits of changing Mobil Oneat 3000 mile intervals 
were wildly exceeded by the cost of the oil and filter. The exception: severe 
duty such as desert, construction jobsites, continuous trailer towing, etc. 


For many years I've used Valvoline 
10/30 and a good quality ($6) filter and changed every 4k in my pickup and 5k in 
my wife's minivan. I change the Chevelle once each fall before laying it up 
because I never rack up more than three or four thousands miles on 
it.

Also, for you motorcycle guys, 
Motorcycle Consumer News did a chemical analysis of oils a year or two ago that 
concluded much the same thing - any good quality oil is so good that comparisons 
do not yield measureable results. The quality of all oil has improved more in 
the last ten years than in the previous 100 years and ANY oil made in the last 
few years is better than the very best made in 1990. Technology has moved on. 
Provided you use the correct oil for your clutch system, any oil is 
excellent.

Finally, HotRod magazine did a 
comparo of air filters last year - don't know if anyone caught it - but their 
conclusion: The high end "KN" $30 filters did no better than a $4 Fram from 
Autozone in either filtration or ability to "pass gas".

For what it's worth, my BIL is an 
"AP" (Airframe  Powerplant) mechanic. He uses Amsoil, changes it every 
15k with a filter change every 7500. 

Craig E.



  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mumper, Douglas 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 8:32 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic 
  Oil
  
  I broke in my 
  rebuilt Chevy 400 SB with 30 weight oil then went to 10w40 for summer in 
  Michigan. I have a oil leak ,when I fix it this winter I plan on using 
  Royal Purple 10w30 or 10w40 next summer.
  
  Doug
  
  1966 
  Chevelle
  
  
  From: Larry Shouse [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 3:23 PMTo: The Chevelle 
  Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic 
  Oil
  
  Thanks to everyone for their input on 
  Synthetic oil.
  
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Jack 
Thorpe 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 3:15 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic 
Oil


  
  

  


  
Live in Western Colorado use 15/50 works fine.(after 
breakin)

---Original 
Message---


From: Roemer, Timothy
Date: 
10/31/05 13:03:56
To: The Chevelle Mailing 
List
Subject: RE: 
[Chevelle-list] Synthetic Oil

I am using 15W-50and live 
in New Mexico. Seems to work fine. 


Tim

'69 SS



From: Larry Shouse 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, 
October 27, 2005 11:32 AMTo: Chevelle 
ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Synthetic 
Oil

I'd like to hear your thoughts on 
breaking in your freshly rebuilt engine using synthetic 
oil...

Also, if you use synthetic oil in 
your daily driver or Chevelle, what brand and viscosity do you 
use?

Thanks,
Larry

  

  
  

  

  


  
  
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for

[Craig Ellis]

That car is $6k all day long.  Buy it, drive it for five years, sell it for
7000. Meanwhile, insurance is $300 a year instead of 1200.

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] looking for


 Check out this link!

 http://www.kentuckycarclubs.com/Used_Car_Lot/The_Lot/the_lot_23.html
 
  From: Ron Menchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2005/11/01 Tue AM 07:28:08 EST
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] looking for
 
  Don't know if any of you can help me or not but it will be a start.I
have been looking for a 1977 Malibu classic station wagon for years..I am
looking for the one that has the center console with swivel bucket
seats...WE had a new one and loved it,at least till it was totaled by a snow
plow LOL..I have never seen one for sale any where..So if any of you chev
guys hears of one PLEASE get back to me
 
  Thanks so much
  Ron
 
 

 Terry S. Hodges
 ACES #5982

Re: [Chevelle-list] orange vs. green anti-freeze

[Craig Ellis]

A+++ article. Saved me from making a big mistake.
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Lessenberry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] orange vs. green anti-freeze


 http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272436.html
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] BIG BLOCK CHEVELLE HEADERS

[Craig Ellis]

I agree. The only headers I could make fit on my '70 were Hedman 1 and 3/4
tubes but they fit perfect and have stayed in place and tight since Day One.
They seem to make nice low-end torque with my 402. I had to re-route the
starter wires through some heat shielding but that's to be expected.

- Original Message - 
From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] BIG BLOCK CHEVELLE HEADERS


 Let's face it,guys. Lowered cars are here to stay but the aftermarket has
 been slow to build headers to address this,,especially with manual
 transmissions. BB cars are particularly vulnerable because of their larger
 tubes.
 Clint Hooper
 HH Custom,owner
 1969 El Camino ProTourer
 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
 http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
 - Original Message - 
 From: Matthew Post [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  Larry,
  For what it's worth, I bought a set of the Sanderson long tube big block
  headers.  Had a clearance problem on the passenger side of all places.
It
  wasn't touching, but far too close to the lower a-arm frame mount.  So
  close that at idle or under torque it would have rubbed the frame.  That
  and the ground clearance was a concern since my Chevelle is lowered.
They
  just hung a little lower than I was comfortable with.
 
  I called Sanderson and they were very helpful and said I could send them
  back for replacement.  To improve ground clearance, I am going to
exchange
  them for the intermediates.  I think they will charge me a restocking
  fee, but at this point I'm not worried about it.  I haven't sent them
 back
  yet, but if you're curious how it all works out, I can let you know.
 
  -Matt
 
 

[Chevelle-list] Idaho

[Craig Ellis]

Is anybody on this list in Idaho? If so, please drop me a note offline at 
[EMAIL PROTECTED].

Thanks,

Craig E.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat belts?

[Craig Ellis]

Not only that, but my 70 didn't have shoulder belts. We 
put them in because my wife didn't want to be in the car without 
them.
Craig E.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Gene Smith 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:19 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat 
  belts?
  
  Hi,
  The anchor point was not installed until 67 along with 
  other safety items such as the collapsible steering column and dual reservoir 
  master cylinder. Hard to believe it took over 30 years to come up with the 
  dual reservoir!
  
  Gene..
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 7:19 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat 
belts?

Thanks, I will. Maybe in 66, they didn't have 
an anchoring point on the roof, and only had lap belts? I honestly can't 
remember what my 66 has, and since it's out getting painted, I can't 
check.

Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint 
  Hooper 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  
  Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 8:14 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Seat 
  belts?
  
  Honestly,I can't answer that question,Larry. 
  You might email Morris Classic and see what they say. They're very good 
  about answering email promptly.
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino 
  ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 

Any idea why the 3 point belts are for 67 
through 73 and doesn't include the 66?

Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Clint 
  Hooper 
  
  Here you go,guys. http://www.morrisclassicconcepts.com/or 
  http://www.customaccessoriesmfg.com/
  I think I'm going to go with the Morris 
  Classic three-pointers.
  Clint HooperHH Custom,owner1969 El Camino 
  ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Ron 
Griffith 

Pelle,

I searched a long time for a set of retractable 
3-point seat belts for my '71 El Camino and these were the best deal 
I could find. I ordered a set and they looked great. 
Unfortunately, they would not fit my El Camino because of my power 
seat switch. They would not clear the switch and the 
door. The company was great about it. They let me return 
the belts and refunded my money. I found what looked like the 
same belt at several sources, but these folks were cheaper by 
anywhere from $20.00 to $130.00. Check them out. There 
is a good photo of them installed in a Chevelle.

Ron Griffith

http://www.andoauto.com/Chevelle.htm

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Pelle Andersson 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing 
  List 
  Sent: Thursday, October 20, 
  2005 2:08 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Seat 
  belts?
  
  What type of seatbelts should I use 
  in my -71 Chevelle?
  Any Pics?
  
  Best 
  regardsPelle__Chevelle 
  gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent

[Craig Ellis]

Because I have an office, I own a bunch of printers. I have taken to keeping
the receipts for the ink - if the cartridge does not launch properly and
print properly it goes back. At $40 a pop for carts, I ran out of patience
years ago with cart failures and printer failures. I still get bit once in a
while, but I stay on top of the printer game now. All their money comes from
ink carts. It that's their approach, I make sure I get my money's worth...

Also, for what it's worth, I buy nothing but HP.

Craig E.


- Original Message - 
From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle List chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 7:10 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent


 Suffice to say it's time for a new printer. This Epson managed to die
 roughly 45 days out of warranty. Too bad I spent about $100 on ink just to
 find out that it doesn't work.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ?

[Craig Ellis]

I put shoulder belts in my '70 but they are kind of poorly looking. For that
matter, so are my lap belts. If anyone has some nice one's for sale, let me
know.

C
- Original Message - 
From: Zieg72 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ?


 What year?  I got an extra set off a 72...  Let me know.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Bill Lessenberry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 12:33 PM
 Subject: [Chevelle-list] Vinyl top trim molding ?


  Can anyone tell me if the long molding that runs along the bottom of the
  vinyl top in the rear is the same for all 68~72 Chevelles.  The one on
my
  car was dented and bent by the previous owner  I'd like to get another
  one.  If any of you have one to sell that's good, please let me know.
 
  Thanks,
  BillL
 
 
 
  -- 
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
  Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/142 - Release Date:
10/18/2005
 
 



 -- 
 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
 Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.4/142 - Release Date: 10/18/2005

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent

[Craig Ellis]

I'd try, in order, rubbing alcohol, paint thinner, laquer thinner, acetone.

I'll bet you a donut the laquer thinner does the Jay O Bee.

Craig E.
- Original Message - 
From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:24 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] OT printer ink solvent


 Sorry for the OT post. Does anybody know of a solvent for (Epson) ink jet
 printer ink? My printer was working fine until the black ink ran out. I
have
 purchased 2 new black cartridges from 2 separate stores now, and it still
 won't print any black. I have run the head cleaning program several times
 with no effect. Epson says that if the head cleaning program won't work I
 have to send it in for service. Of course the warranty expired a month and
a
 half ago. I want to try to clean it manually since sending it in for
service
 is not a practical option.

 Thanks,
 John Nasta

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 on ebay

[Craig Ellis]

Some homie will buy it or somebody else will pick it up 
and part it out. Alot of good parts there, I think. Seems to me all the 
hydralics and batts will bring some serious money on ebay.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dan 
  McIntosh 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 4:10 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 on ebay
  
  I had nothing to do with this, I 
  swear.
  
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-Chevelle-66-LOWRIDER-HYDRAULICS-V8-AUTO-NO-RESERVE-WOW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6164QQitemZ4583283552QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
  
  
  Dan McIntosh1960 Impala Sport CoupeStreet 
  Metal Fabricationshttp://www.lowriderimpala.com

[Chevelle-list] El Cominos

[Craig Ellis]

I spotted an Elco for sale in Smiths Creek, MI, last night on the way home 
from my son's Cub Scout meeting. If anyone's interested, I'll go check it out in 
the daylight. Looked pretty good from 50 yards - stock rims, two-tone paint 
(looked like white topsides with a burgundy wrap-around at the stone chip 
beltline. I'm in the market for an Elco but I can't keep two cars around so I'll 
be letting this one go by.

Craig E.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves?

[Craig Ellis]

Nope...it's basically reving the motor past the point 
where the valve springs can close the valve in time for the next compression or 
exhauststroke. It's a "bad thing"...especially if the piston slaps a 
valve. That's one of the reasons valve seat spring load is important and why you 
match springs to cam, etc.

Craig E.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:55 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the 
  Day / Float the Valves?
  
  
  
  Well I am 41, been around cars my whole life and have not heard the term 
  "float the valves" doesn't sound like a good thing to do, but what is 
  it? My guess - depressing clutch to shift, but intenially not taking 
  your foot off the gas? 
  
  Thank you,
  
  Krister Meister
  Bloomingdale, IL
  '66 SS #'s-Original Message-From: Bob 
  Haggard [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSent: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:48:21 
  -0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day
  

  When I was in the Air Force (66-70) a friend had a red Chevelle SS with 
396/350hp.  It was a beautiful car and what I always remember was he liked to 
shift when the valves would float.  I was amazed that it stayed together since a 
high school friend had a 63 Impalla (1963) with 409/425hp that would float the 
valves when he missed a shift and it would usually end up back at the Chevy 
dealer to replace bent pushrods and other assorted parts.
Bob Haggard - old fart
 
 From: Bob Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED]com
 Date: 2005/10/12 Wed PM 04:25:42 EDT
 To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back in  the Day
 
 Reminisicing at the tender age of 17 working in the local burger joint and 
working the night shift when the night porter  Pee Wee drove up with his new 
1969 Chevelle SS , Black with Red interior and red stripes, with 396-375 and 
four on the floor with eyebrows on the headlights??
 
   
 -
  Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the Valves?

[Craig Ellis]

I decided years ago when I put a 6500 RPM cam in my BB 
motor that I'd eyeball limit to 6000. I'm not draggin' for money and I'd just as 
soon not grenade my 1970 vintage block just to spank some yahoo with three 
earings and a '98 Mustang. If I can't git 'r 
donewith 6k, well, I'll have to accept it.

Besides, it doesn't matter how fast some lesser car goes 
- mine is a Chevelle with fatblockand a Muncie - that makes it more better 
by definition.
Chevelle Snob

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Matthew Post 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 2:59 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the 
  Day / Float the Valves?
  Yeah, me too. I've also always been careful of hitting 
  rev limiters on other cars I've owned. I am considering a rev limiter 
  for the Chevelle, but have always wonder if a rev limiter can cause harm to an 
  engine as well? Or is it just fouled plugs at worst? Does anyone 
  have an opinion on that?Of course, even if the rev limiter caused some 
  damage, it's probably not as serious as over revving an engine I'm sure. 
  There's no KABOOM! when you hit a rev limiter. Just wondering if there 
  might be long term harm.Thanks,MattAt 11:29 AM 10/13/2005, 
  you wrote:
  Thank you for the insight, 
it seems like harm can only come from this and no advantage 
gained.I have always been won to respect the redline in cars, 
motorcycles, etc. and the few times over was a "whew it stayed 
together"Thanks 
again,Krister-Original Message-From: 
Craig Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSent: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 14:01:27 
-0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the 
Valves?Nope...it's basically reving the motor 
past the point where the valve springs can close the valve in time for the 
next compression or exhaust stroke. It's a "bad thing"...especially if the 
piston slaps a valve. That's one of the reasons valve seat spring load is 
important and why you match springs to cam, etc.Craig E.

  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day / Float the 
  Valves?
  Well I am 41, been around cars my whole life and have not heard the 
  term "float the valves" doesn't sound like a good thing to do, but 
  what is it? My guess - depressing clutch to shift, but intenially 
  not taking your foot off the gas? 
  
  Thank you,
  
  Krister Meister
  Bloomingdale, IL
  '66 SS #'s 
  
  -Original Message-
  From: Bob Haggard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:48:21 -0400
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day
  When I was in the Air Force (66-70) a friend had a red Chevelle SS 
  with 
  396/350hp. It was a beautiful car and what I always remember was 
  he liked to 
  shift when the valves would float. I was amazed that it stayed 
  together since a 
  high school friend had a 63 Impalla (1963) with 409/425hp that would 
  float the 
  valves when he missed a shift and it would usually end up back at the 
  Chevy 
  dealer to replace bent pushrods and other assorted parts.
  Bob Haggard - old fart
   
   From: Bob Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: 2005/10/12 Wed PM 04:25:42 EDT
   To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
   Subject: [Chevelle-list] Back in the Day
   
   Reminisicing at the tender age of 17 working in the local burger 
  joint and 
  working the night shift when the night porter Pee Wee drove up 
  with his new 
  1969 Chevelle SS , Black with Red interior and red stripes, with 
  396-375 and 
  four on the floor with eyebrows on the headlights??
   
   
   -
   Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try 
  it free.
   

Re: [Chevelle-list] assistance with project for school

[Craig Ellis]

Michigan Technological University - Mich Tech. Best BSME 
program there is and their grads occupy many top spots in the OEMs. BSEE is also 
outstanding.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  RJ 
  Winkler 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 11:13 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] assistance 
  with project for school
  
  
  I’m looking to be an 
  automotive engineer. You guys recommend any schools that have that 
  specialized program, co-ops with the big three, and job opportunities when 
  you’ve graduated? Thanks for any information you can give me. I’ve been 
  looking and reading everything and feel like I’ve gone nowhere. 
  
  –RJ 
  Winkler
  
  
  
  
  
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron MalespinSent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:48 
  PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] assistance 
  with project for school
  
  
  
  Hi. I'm an 
  engineer. I have not been directly involved with the automotive industry 
  but have worked directly with some of the key car designers. I would be 
  glad to field your questions.
  
  
  
  Ron 
  M.
  
  67 Malibu
  

- Original 
Message - 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 


To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 


Sent: Monday, October 
10, 2005 2:40 PM

Subject: [Chevelle-list] 
assistance with project for school


I've been on the 
list for a while and enjoy reading all of your posts. I am a pre-engineering 
student and I amresearchingautomotive engineering.I was 
just wondering if anybody on the list was an automotive engineer. I would 
just like to ask them some questions to help increase my knowledge of the 
field. Thank you, you guys and gals are great. 
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Compression Fuel Survey

[Craig Ellis]

402 bored to 414, 9.5, 93 pump gas, no detonation. Alum 
heads...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 8:19 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Compression 
   Fuel Survey
  
  Hi All,
  
  If you don't mind, please answer the 
  following:
  
  Engine (CID)
  Compression Ratio
  Fuel Used (octane)
  Detonation (Y/N)
  Method Used To Combat Detonation (if 
  any)
  Comments
  
  I'm just curious what kind of compression 
  everyone is running, and whether you're having any detonation 
  issues.
  
  Thanks,
  Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Garage Bathroom

[Craig Ellis]

If you live in an area where freezing is not an issue, 
it is a great idea. The commode and a sink is all you need and they add value to 
a home. It is a simple matter to plumb for both and buy the fixtures at a later 
date when more money is available. Just putting in the Schedule 40 sewer line 
should be a matter of a couple hundred bucks, tops.

You can alsoinstall fittings for a floor drain 
that is NOT connected to your sewer - run them to the outside for 
laterconnection to a line leading to a perforated 55 gal drum buried 
underground and it's perfect for washing cars inside. To avoid problems with the 
inspector (garage drains were outlawed years ago because people dumped engine 
oil,etc.,down them) install the fitting about 1/4" below the 
finnished floor grade and measure where they are EXACTLY in relation to the 
outside edge of the floor. After inspection, a light tap with a hammer will 
break away the thin cement and, voila', you've got a drain fitting. Completing 
the drain is simple - the parts mate easily with 1/4 inch of "play". Avoid 
sloping the floor to the drain - inspectors aren't that dumb. And NEVER dump 
anything you would not want your dog to drink down ita little soapy water is 
harmless but antifreeze ain't. When/if you move, plug it so some non-car-guy 
doesnt abuse it.

BTW, this system is often used for hunting cabins in 
Michigan - a 55 gal drum for a septic tank is sufficient if it's only in 
occassional use - like a cabin.

Craig E.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Rick Schaefer 
  
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 3:23 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Garage 
  Bathroom
  
   My garage project has been on hold for a while, but I finally have 
  footers dug G . My wife suggested that I install a 
  bathroom. I was all for it til I got 3 bids that were way more 
  thanI could afford ( and more than I thought 
  reasonable). Today I got 2 comparablyreasonable 
  estimates ( is $2600 reasonable?) for a comode, utility sink and water  
  sewer connections. 
  
   $2600 otherwise spent would get me a 4-post lift or LS1 
  for the camaro. I could improvise a sink install and 
  could live without the comode. So for the long term is the 
  bathroom a good investment? 
  -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El 
  Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Muncie 4 Speeds

[Craig Ellis]

My engine makes about 425 and I use an M21. Unless you 
are pulling hole shots, the 21 is more than enough and you can pick them up for 
$500. Granted, we'll all pull a hole shot once in a while. But for $500, you can 
break three 21's before you get to a 22...

C

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:26 
  PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Muncie 4 
  Speeds
  
  I need to pick up a 4 speed Muncie tranny for my 
  66 SS396 in the next couple of months. The boss of the guy doing my paint has 
  a rock crusher M22 available for $1400. Talking to my machine shop guy, he is 
  expecting my 396 to produce 400 to 425 horsepower when I put it 
  together.
  
  Based on my expected output, is an M22 a good 
  choice, or should I save the money and get myself an M20 or M21?
  
  And Gene, when I order the harness from you, what 
  will be the expected lead time?
  
  Thanks,
  Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts

[Craig Ellis]

I've got a 70 and have been told that they are different. I sure would like
to know the answer to this question because using the wrong mounts
supposedly changes the driveline angle and creates vibration issues, etc. If
anyone has sets of both mounts for 1970-72 (probably the same for 68 and 69,
too), let's do a comparo.

Craig
- Original Message - 
From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts


 I'm pretty sure that it would apply up to 1972,,maybe later.
 Clint Hooper
 HH Custom,owner
 1969 El Camino ProTourer
 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
 http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
 - Original Message - 
 From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]


  can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks ,
 Jimmy.C
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a
 BB
  vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form.  The frame
mounts
  are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief
 for
  clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502.  I don't
  know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it.  So I say
  stick with the SB stuff.  Its all the same.
  
   Charles
   www.65ss.com
  
  
  
   - Original Message - 
   From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
   Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM
   Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
  
  
   If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower.
   Clint Hooper
   HH Custom,owner
   1969 El Camino ProTourer
   2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
   http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
   - Original Message - 
   From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
   Clint
   would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable
 clearance
   problems?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 101

[Craig Ellis]

I think mechanicals advance at a predetermined rate and 
vacuums advance in relation to manifold vacuum which is roughly dependent upon 
throttle opening. I have heard that it makes no difference in anything but race 
applications. Ditto for vacuum/mechanical secondaries in carbs. I was talked out 
of mechanical advances for either/both years ago but I can't remember exactly 
why...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:08 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 
  101
  
  As a follow-up question, please explain to me the 
  pros and cons of vacuum vs. mechanical advance.
  
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Shouse 
To: Chevelle List 
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:03 
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Distributors 
101

OK next question - which distributor or 
type of distributor would you recommend for the 396 I'm building? As I 
mentioned before, I'm looking for something I can drive now and then and 
take to the track once in a while for fun. I know I won't be putting 
anything in with points. I'm done with that!

Thanks,
Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts

[Craig Ellis]

That's using your head. Now I wonder if Autozone sells the frame mounts,
too? I think I'll go look...

C
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts


 Engine mounts yes.  Frame mounts, I don't know.  I would suspect yes.

 I went to autozone.com and put in a '72 chevelle big block, then a small
 block.  Both of the engine mounts are the same.

 Charles
 www.65ss.com



 - Original Message - 
 From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
 Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:39 AM
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts


  can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks ,
  Jimmy.C
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
 
 
 I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a
BB
 vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form.  The frame mounts
 are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief
for
 clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502.  I don't
 know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it.  So I say
 stick with the SB stuff.  Its all the same.
 
  Charles
  www.65ss.com
 
 
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
 
 
  If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower.
  Clint Hooper
  HH Custom,owner
  1969 El Camino ProTourer
  2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
  http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
  Clint
  would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable
  clearance
  problems?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts

[Craig Ellis]

I got this off a Google search - as usual, it does not put the matter to
rest...
THE Chevelle ONLINE INTERCHANGE MANUAL: CHASSIS SECTION
ENGINE MOUNTING (Chevrolet V8)
It is important that the frame mounts that secure the engine should match
the motor used, and this is important in which certain components like
header clearance and clutch linkage angles are maintained. The part numbers
that I have listed for Chevrolet engines are discontinued by GM, but the
only way is to find a set that are either NOS or as a reproduction.

*There are two frame mounts that are common with the Chevelle, and the
Chevrolet part numbers cover both the 1964-67 and 1968-72 vehicles. P/N
3872815/3872816 fits 1964-67 Chevelles with big blocks, and the small block
counterparts are P/N 3840715/3840716.

Not much is known about the mounting hardware, since the part #s were
abstracted from Super Chevy magazine.

*1968-72 frame mounts use two different mounts to mount the V8, and the most
common mount that is used are P/N 3980711 and 3980712. 307-powered cars used
frame mounts 3980707 and 3980708.

The 307 frame towers, P/Ns 3980707 and 3980708, are taller and wider than
the non-307 frame towers, P/Ns 3980711 and 3980712.  The non-307 frame
towers locate the engine a 1/2 lower in the engine bay.  The engine
cushions are specific to the frame mounts listed above.

The only completion of mounting a Chevrolet engine into any A-bodied car
will require the correct engine cushions, and aftermarket companies like TRW
will manufacture the OEM style cushions, or the solid mounting hardware
available from Moroso will fit in place of the rubber cushions, but this
will wreak havoc on certain components like trannies and the driveshaft.


  1970 : CHEVROLET : CHEVELLE : 6.6L 402 cubic inch V8 : Engine : Mount

 Item Price Core Total Add to Cart
ANCHOR Part # 2283
Front Right More Info
 $5.12 $0.00 $5.12
ANCHOR Part # 2283
Front Left More Info
 $5.12 $0.00 $5.12

So, the bottom line so far is I dont know and cant find the right data...

Craig E.


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts


 Engine mounts yes.  Frame mounts, I don't know.  I would suspect yes.

 I went to autozone.com and put in a '72 chevelle big block, then a small
 block.  Both of the engine mounts are the same.

 Charles
 www.65ss.com



 - Original Message - 
 From: jim [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
 Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:39 AM
 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts


  can you tell me if that applies to the 1972 cars as well ? thanks ,
  Jimmy.C
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 8:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
 
 
 I didn't track all the emails in this chain, but the motor mounts for a
BB
 vs. SB in a '65 are identical in every shape and form.  The frame mounts
 are the exact same height also, but the BB version have a small relief
for
 clearance I suppose, but are completely unnecessary on my 502.  I don't
 know if any other BB's needed this clearance, but I doubt it.  So I say
 stick with the SB stuff.  Its all the same.
 
  Charles
  www.65ss.com
 
 
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Clint Hooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re: Parts
 
 
  If you run headers,they will hang a little bit lower.
  Clint Hooper
  HH Custom,owner
  1969 El Camino ProTourer
  2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger
  http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ryan Langstraat [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
  Clint
  would setting the engine lower vs. higher make any foreseeable
  clearance
  problems?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

[Chevelle-list] BBC/SBC frame towers

[Craig Ellis]

I also found this...

Stacey, the frame to engine mount brackets are different from small block 
to big block, however all of the hole locations are the same. The difference is 
that the big block brackets have a strengthening rib that runs around the bottom 
toward the front, also it has a notch to clear the interlocking tab in the big 
block engine mount.Phil is correct in stating that you must use small block 
engine mounts with small block frame to engine mount brackets, but you can use 
small block or big block engine mounts with big block frame to engine mount 
brackets. If you try to use the big block engine mounts on the small block frame 
to engine mount brackets, the interlocking tab will hit the bracket before the 
engine mount gets in the correct possition, you wont be able to get it to line 
up. I found this out the hard way. I had to cut the tab off before I could get 
everything to line up. Here are some pictures that might help, the big block 
mounts are in the middle. Frame brackets 
The link is to pics of the two types. If anyone can sort this out, please 
do.


Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 
810-388-1345 
www.neagroup.com 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
NEA Automotive, Inc.
"The Expert 
Source" for Automotive Professionals 

Re: [Chevelle-list] selling parts to the UK??

[Craig Ellis]

Any English speaking person that says ...that you have placed for sell
now... is either a moron or from Nigerian and hangs with that dipweed
trying to get people to send him 10 large in exchange for 10 really large.

E
- Original Message - 
From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 9:50 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] selling parts to the UK??


 Have any of you guys ever sold parts to this guy in the UK (see snippets
 below). This just seems odd, at the very least it seems dubious.
 Notice 2 different email addresses to buy the same part.
 Maybe he's just eccentric


 =
 From: AdAuto cars [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 10/2/05
 Hello
 I am interested in buying the SBC Hooker Super Comp Chevelle headers
 ‘69 Chevelle rear bumper that you have placed for sell now, and I would
 want to enquire about the present condition of the above mentioned, as
 well as some detail about you. I expect this promptly.

 As for the payment, I would need you to get back in touch with the last
 offering price as I will be paying with a cashiers cheque.

 Lastly, please forward to me your full company's (or house address,
 telephone and fax) details as I will subsequently prefer reaching you
 through these facilities.

 Yours interestingly,

 Raymond Griffiths.

 =
 From: guarantee part [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 9/10/05

 Mike:
 Thanks for your response and your mail contents duly noted.
 You can not belief how only I had wish meeting you personally to discuss
 this unfortunately I am not based in the US but resides here in the U.K
 on similar business interest and also have a family home located in
 Ontario Canada where I have an old aged whare house (storage 
 restoration unit for Chevies etc) which is being run by my son and wife.

 So, could you please inform me bottom price on the headers and in doing
 so send to me necessary details--postal address, full name and telephone
 number(s)--of whom this cheque should be payable to thus my wife could
 mail the cheque from Ontario to you on my behalf. On the shipment, I
 have a recommended shipper there who is expected to meet with you for
 inspection, survey and arrangement for their conveyance to Ontario .

 On getting the cheque cashed and all agreement are proven to be legal,
 he (the carrier) will be directed to establish contact with you for
 immediate transfer of the headers to Canada where my wife and son are
 designated for receiving orders made by me.

 Raymond.
 PS. To reach me: Phone Contacts: Home #+ 44-709-203-8980 and cell #
 44-870-0199-5214. But sorry, I will be out on the road at work today
 until 6:30 so until then it would be best to e-mail me as I will be
 checking it often and won't be available by phone until I get off of work.


 =
 From: guarantee part [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 9/7/05

 Hello
 I am interested in buying the Spintech MufflersSBC Hooker Super Comp
 Chevelle headers, 1.75” primaries that you have placed for sell now, and
 I would want to enquire about the present condition of the above
 mentioned, as well as some detail about you. I expect this promptly.

 As for the payment, I would need you to get back in touch with the last
 offering price as I will be paying with a cashiers cheque.

 Lastly, please forward to me your full company's (or house address,
 telephone and fax) details as I will subsequently prefer reaching you
 through these facilities.

 Yours interestingly,

 Raymond Griffiths.

 =

 -- 
 --
 When Satan is knocking at your door, simply say, Jesus, could you get
that for me?
   http://www.christianet.com

   Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
   TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
   Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
   Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



 -- 

 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
 Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 9/30/2005

Re: [Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle

[Craig Ellis]

All I know from transporting motorcycles is to avoid 
compressing the suspension all the way to the stops. About 1/2 of the available 
travel is usually enough pressure to hold them down.C

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 2:26 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trailering 
  Your Chevelle
  
  That's what I was afraid of. I know it's better 
  to anchor to an unsprung point, and there's just not that many places to hook 
  up to since I'm using straps, even with the protective sleeve covering it, 
  I don't feel comfortablewrapping a strap around the a-arms with their 
  sharp edges. I may have to make up two short pieces of chain with a rubber 
  hose over it or something with hooks or loops it the ends. Maybe this 
  justifies buying new tubular a-arms ;-)
  
  Larry
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
John Nasta 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 
12:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Trailering 
Your Chevelle


For 
flatbed towing I believe we used to hook the a-arms in the front and over 
the rear axle in the back.

John 
Nasta



-Original 
Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry ShouseSent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 
11:20 AMTo: Chevelle 
ListSubject: 
[Chevelle-list] Trailering Your Chevelle

It's 
time to take my 66SS "shell" to my body and paint guy this weekend. I just 
loaded the car onto the trailer. Not wanting to wrap chains around anything 
on my freshly painted chassis, I went to the trailer store and bought 
afour corner strap tie down system. In a nutshell, it'stwo 
straps with a hook at both ends and a "D" ring that you can move up and down 
the strap so you can loop the straps around something like the rear end 
oneach side and hook the other end to your trailer, plus two more 
straps which are the same except they both have heavy duty ratcheting 
buckles on them.

My 
question is, I can run two of the straps around the rear end housing in the 
back, but where do do you all use for anchoring points in the front of the 
car???


Thanks,
Larry 
Shouse

[Chevelle-list] Krister

[Craig Ellis]

Krister,

Just got a note that you're no longer at NSK. Please email me offline so I 
can update my files.

Craig E.
NEA Automotive, Inc.
Detroit, MI
www.neagroup.com 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
NEA Automotive, Inc.
"The Expert 
Source" for Automotive Professionals 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction

[Craig Ellis]

Boy, don't I know it. I wish I had that old GTO. I wish 
I had my old 1970 Chevelle Malibu. Green with green vinyl roof, 307, two-speed 
auto and AM radio and bench seat. I gave it away in 1985 with 150,000 on the 
clock. Still ran perfect. I bought it from a lady in a retirement home for $500 
in 1980and put $700 into tie rods, brakes, and new Goodyears. Great car. 
If you can imagine this, her husband bought the car for her new, brought it home 
and by hand greased the inside of every body panel on the car and the inside of 
the frame rails. Even took the door panels off and greased the inside of the 
doors. That car did not have a speck of rust on it and it had spent it's entire 
life in Michigan. Poor man's undercoating. My only complaint was you had to be 
careful about how you put things in the trunk - if something fell down by the 
quarter panel you'd get grease on it. I hated working underneath it - always 
came up with a glob of grease on me somewhere.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 9:48 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum 
  Auction
  
  
  
  Hi Craig: I grew up in the 60's  I can relate to what 
  you said. Would I still like to have my L-79 SS from 1965? Of 
  course I would butit's long gone to the crusher. Sold it in 74 
  after the Army  during my first marriage. Had no place to keep it 
  anyway  the last thing on my mind was owning a 40 year old car in 
  2005. Aftermarket was the way back then. Either performance or 
  looks, and most of the time you sold what you took off. Never occurred 
  to us to save for numbers matching in the future. The number of people 
  that are original owners of these muscle machines are few  far 
  between. I wish my Mom had a house  garage where I could have 
  stored mine for 30 years. Even as a rustbucket it would have been worth 
  a fortune today as anoringinal L-79. You don't even want to know 
  about the 58-59 Baseball card collection I sold for $10. Bought a tank 
  of gas  went out on a date. Today I own my 4th 65 SS and every time 
  I drive it, it makes me smile. No numbers matching anything but some of 
  the sheetmetal. No muncie shifter and no chalk marks anywhere. 
  Close the hood  it looks like the 60's. A lot of shineand 
  custom wheels. Not much stock under the hood either and the flowmasters 
  are like music. Nothing stuffy about me or my car and people let me know 
  they approve all the time. I admire and respect the stockers and the 
  people that build them and if I did have that first 65, I'm afraid it would 
  have to be a trailer queen today. Personally, I want to drive, have fun 
  and leave the numbers to the purists. Let them worry about the right 
  screws, bolts, and chalk marks. If it's your car you do whatever makes 
  you smile whether that's going for 1000 points, pro street or in 
  between!! And NEVER condemnthose that don't share your 
  views. To each his own. That's one of the beauty's of this 
  hobby. The flexibilty to be yourself! 
   
  
  
  Phil G. 65 SS
  -Original Message-From: Larry Shouse 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: Craig Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
  The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netSent: Tue, 27 
  Sep 2005 07:52:23 -0400Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction
  

  
  

  Well said Craig. I too grew up in the '70's doing 
  as you said, except I was a Ford man back then cough, cough. As I 
  "restore" my 66, my plans are to go original within reason - the body and 
  interior will be original, but I will make safety and performance upgrades. 
  And like you, if I use after market parts, I will keep the original parts for 
  the next guy or gal, if I ever sell this thing of course...
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Craig Ellis 

To: The 
Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 9:03 
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum 
Auction

I don't know about anyone else, but I grew up in the 
muscle car era - had a '66 GTO in high school and worked at a local factory 
as a press operator to pay for it. The FIRST thing that happened to that car 
was ET mags. Then headers and 'vette exhaust under the door. Then a Holley 
850 double because my buddy's Z28 spanked me. Then a Hurst shifter. I have 
no idea what happened to the original parts. That was muscle car era 
hotrodding. Hotrodding 32 Fords was a whole other thing but with muscle cars 
it was all about exhaust, cams, wheels, carbs and once in a while some 
serious dude would port the heads - and with cast iron, that was no mean 
potatoes - or stroke  bore. Only the south end greasers did that 
stuff...not us north end frat boys - and they cleaned our clocks at the 
local 1/4 every Saturday night.

Today, muscle cars are about getting the chalk marks 
correct on the rear end diff an

Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction

[Craig Ellis]

I don't know about anyone else, but I grew up in the 
muscle car era - had a '66 GTO in high school and worked at a local factory as a 
press operator to pay for it. The FIRST thing that happened to that car was ET 
mags. Then headers and 'vette exhaust under the door. Then a Holley 850 double 
because my buddy's Z28 spanked me. Then a Hurst shifter. I have no idea what 
happened to the original parts. That was muscle car era hotrodding. Hotrodding 
32 Fords was a whole other thing but with muscle cars it was all about exhaust, 
cams, wheels, carbs and once in a while some serious dude would port the heads - 
and with cast iron, that was no mean potatoes - or stroke  bore. Only 
the south end greasers did that stuff...not us north end frat boys - and they 
cleaned our clocks at the local 1/4 every Saturday night.

Today, muscle cars are about getting the chalk marks 
correct on the rear end diff and sourcing NOS bias ply tires. I'm sorry, but I 
don't really get that. I mean, I respect it and I respect the meticulous 
attention to detail, etc., but it so not me. For years, I didn't even know how 
to tell if the block matched the chassis - I didn't know or think it was 
important. When I got my Chevelle years ago, as soon as I had the money, off 
came the heads and on went aluminum...and a cam and carb and wheels with some 
swingin' KDW tires. Oh yeah, and headers and xpipe and Flowmasters and lower 
springs and a Mallory and the A/C is out in the shed. Now it's MY car. It 
sounds, looks, and drives like the nasty old girl she is. It ain't perfect - 
nothing I have is - but I like it.

At least this time I kept the heads, intake, A/C and 
manifolds. They're sitting around collecting cobwebs...probably leaking oil on 
something.

Craig E.


-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sep 
25, 2005 11:30 PM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Mecum Auction 


  
  If one only had a unlimited bank account ! 
   
  Larry (Z)
  
  1969 
  Chevrolet Camaro ZL-1, 4-Speed. - Lot:X20 at Mecum In Chicago - Mecum 
  Auction 

Re: [SPAM] [Chevelle-list] Battery acid concentration?

[Craig Ellis]

John is correct. You must load test a battery to 
determine if it's OK and even then, it's not foolproof.

I've got a '98 Dodge Ram pickup with the original 
factory battery and it still works perfectly. I have no idea why this is so - it 
should have been gone years ago. Not only that, there is not a speck of 
corrosion on the top of it and never has been. It looks and acts brand new. 
Weird.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Pelle Andersson 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 12:46 
  PM
  Subject: [SPAM] [Chevelle-list] Battery 
  acid concentration?
  
  As u might recall I've had problems with my 
  starter hitting the flexplate!?
  
  The batterysays ok when I check the "green 
  spot" on its top!
  The charger says it's ok and fully loaded! 
  (trickle charger)
  
  But when I check it with an acid concentration 
  meter (don't know its proper name)
  it just says "fair" (on a Good/fair/poor 
  scale).
  
  What's your conclusion of this?
  
  Best 
  regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/

[Chevelle-list] Dash insert

[Craig Ellis]

Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across a 
nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the list 
knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want to attache 
the photo until I know it's OK to do so.
Craig E.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert

[Craig Ellis]

Dale,

Yes, I can do that - I just figured it out.  I'll post it now.

C
- Original Message - 
From: Dale McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 12:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert


 I think it's discouraged (1) due to virus possibilities and (2) many
people use a text-only email system and wouldn't see it anyway.  Can you
upload the picture to a web site and then post a link to it?

 Dale


 -- Original Message --
 From: Craig Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Craig Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED],The Chevelle Mailing List
Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
 Date:  Thu, 22 Sep 2005 11:49:17 -0400

 Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across a
nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the list
knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want to
attache the photo until I know it's OK to do so.
 
 Craig E.
 


 

[Chevelle-list] Dash insert

[Craig Ellis]

Thanks for the suggestion, Dale. Here's the dash I'm interested in.

If anyone knows anything about this dash insert or where I might find one, 
please let me know. I've posted a link to a photo of it out on my company 
website. Here's the link: 

http://www.neagroup.com/Chevelle-dash%20insert.jpg
Craig E.



Craig A. Ellis, CPA, CISA 
810-388-1345 
www.neagroup.com 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
NEA Automotive, Inc.
"The Expert 
Source" for Automotive Professionals 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash insert

[Craig Ellis]

Charles,
Thanks. I wonder what they're made of? Must be vacuum formed styrene or 
something. Do you think clear coating it would help???

Craig

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 4:42 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash 
  insert
  
  Just FYI
  http://65ss.com/index.php?p=20
  
  I put a Covan's dash in my 65, and I put up a 
  review and a picture at the above link. 
  They look great once in place, but are of a very 
  pliable plastic, with an easily scratched surface.
  
  Later
  Charles
  
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
jim 
To: Craig Ellis ; The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 2:00 
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Dash 
insert

hey Craig, try www.covansclassic.com. I have 
never used or seen the actual instrument cluster insert but down the road I 
think thats the way I'm gonna go in the near future. Jimmy. 
C

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Craig 
  Ellis 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 
  10:49 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Dash 
  insert
  
  Is it possible to post a small JPG photo to this list? I came across 
  a nifty dash insert for 70-72's and I'd like to find out if anyone on the 
  list knows who makes them or anything else about this insert. I don't want 
  to attache the photo until I know it's OK to do so.
  Craig E.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Lifters 101

[Craig Ellis]

Hydraulic rollers are the way to go if you've got the 
extra money. More lift and the valves can be held closed or open for a more 
optimal length of time to facilitate filling/emptying the chambers. In other 
words, the steepness of the lobe incline can be more radical because the roller 
lets the parts move against one another without friction. The BIG payoff is in 
lift and lobe shape and maximum air/fuel charge in the cylinder. There is just 
no arguing with it.

Hydraulic flat is next best, IMHO, and is what I went 
with on my402 build. I used Edelbrock oval port heads and a Comp Cams 
Xtreme Energy grind and I'm pickled tink over it. It runs and sounds outstanding 
(it had THE best idle lope I have ever heard in a car that is driveable - 
positively gnarly). I've been very happy with my choice but, that said, if I had 
it to do over again, I'd go the extra dough and get rollers. THere's just 
something about all the rotating hardware on bearings that makes perfect sense 
to my wee little dinasaur brain. Compared to rollers, flat tappets seem, well, 
so 70's...

craig E

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Larry 
  Shouse 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 10:57 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lifters 
101
  
  Can someone reply with a brief tutorial on 
  lifters? I'm getting ready to start assembling my 396, and I'd like your 
  opinions on the pros and cons of each of the following:
  
  hydraulic flat
  hydraulic roller
  mechanical flat
  mechanical roller
  
  In my specific case, I'm looking to build a 
  reliable driver I can use on the Power Tour next year,but take to the 
  track for a bit of fun now and then. Money is an issue, but I wouldn't mind 
  spending a bit more if I can pick up some ponies along the way...
  
  Thanks,
  LarryShouse

Re: [Chevelle-list] I'm baaaaccckkk...

[Craig Ellis]

Chuck, try these guys. http://www.cvvacuumplaters.com/

I talked to them today and they appear to know their 
business.Craig

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Chuck 
  Speake 
  To: 'Rick Schaefer' ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 5:04 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] I'm 
  bccckkk...
  
  
  I have a 70 
  Malibu and no one rechromes 
  this dash as far as I have been able to find they do rechrome SS, but not 
  Malibu. If I were to 
  refinish the dash myself how do you refinish the chrome areas on the dash so 
  it will look really good. I have touched up a few spots with chrome 
  enamel and it worked ok, but does not give you the shine of chrome, more of a 
  dull silver.
  Any help or advice 
  would be appreciated.
  
  
  Best 
  regards,Chuck 
  SpeakeCell Phone: 
  (630) 
  776-0314[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  -Original 
  Message-From: Rick 
  Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:51 
  AMTo: Craig Ellis; The 
  Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I'm 
  bccckkk...
  
  
  Personnally if I had an original I'd use 
  it over the repop and especially if you want to go original in the 
  future. Either refinish it yourself (I've seen several excellent 
  home resto's) or use the $300 cost of the repop dash panel towards 
  having your spare original professionally done. 
  
  
  
  I've read of several issues with the 
  repops that may or may not bother you - depending on how anal you are about 
  originality - LOL .
  
  
  
  
  
  On 9/20/05, 
  Craig Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  wrote: 
  
  I've been off-list for a 
  lonnnggg time but winters approaching and it's time to fix all the junk that's 
  wrong with my little red chevelle. For openers, I'm wondering if anyone has 
  installed one of those repop 1970 SS dashes. I dropped a note to No-Neck but 
  then I remembered this list LIST! 
  
  
  
  I've got an original SS but a 
  DPO put an oil gauge in the dash. I've also got a spiffy replacement (an 
  original 1970 SS dash) that's perfect but needs rechrome, paint, etc. I'm 
  thinking about just putting one of those repop numbers in there this winter 
  and waiting until I've got a little more money to get the good original one 
  ready. 
  
  
  
  Does anyone have experience with 
  these? Do they look pretty good? Do they fit well? All help would be much 
  appreciated.
  
  
  
  Thanks,
  
  Craig 
  E.
  -- Rick Schaefer72 TPI El 
Camino

[Chevelle-list] I'm baaaaccckkk...

[Craig Ellis]

I've been off-list for a lonnnggg time but winters 
approaching and it's time to fix all the junk that's wrong with my little red 
chevelle. For openers, I'm wondering if anyone has installed one of those repop 
1970 SS dashes. I dropped a note to No-Neck but then I remembered this list 
LIST!

I've got an original SS but a DPO put an oil gauge in 
the dash. I've also got a spiffy replacement (an original 1970 SS dash) that's 
perfect but needs rechrome, paint, etc. I'm thinking about just putting one of 
those repop numbers in there this winter and waiting until I've got a little 
more money to get the good original one ready.

Does anyone have experience with these? Do they look 
pretty good? Do they fit well? All help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Craig E.

RE: [Chevelle-List] '70 Chevelle LS6

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



Yeah, but at 
BJ, the BUYER pays the fees...

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dale 
  McIntoshSent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 12:36 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] '70 
  Chevelle LS6
  Probably right. If it sold at reserve, his ebay fees would 
  be around $3100 as best I figure. I watched a thing on Car Crazy this 
  afternoon where a guy sold a custom Motor Trend magazine 67 Camaro at BJ for 
  $41,000 and his fee was about $3200 or so. That and his time to haul the 
  car there, hotels, food, etc. he walked away with something like 
  $36,000.
  Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dales Place  My 67 
  SS and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff  Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67  1967 
  Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles  Midwest Chevelle Show Information 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Saturday, June 
21, 2003 10:22 PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] '70 
Chevelle LS6dale : i think it is more of 
an advertising thing. i doubt if they even get a bid 
Larry 
(Z) 

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Well, I took 
your advise and put them in today. Quite a chore - had to release the motor 
mounts, pick the engine/trans up about two inches to get them in. Between that 
and rerouting starter wires, etc., it's all day job.

C

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander 
  WerfSent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 8:37 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  I would recommend the smaller headers for 
  day to day use. You get a broader torque curve that, in most cases, makes the 
  car stronger all around.
  
  Bill Vander Werf
  
  
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of Craig 
  EllisSent: Friday, June 13, 
  2003 12:19 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  
  Bill,
  
  
  
  Thanks 
  very much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 
  and 3/4. My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock Performer 
  RPM. Comp Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration @ 50. Lobe 
  sep is 110. Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift Muncie, 
  Performer RPM intake with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 3/4 or 
  would the 2" produce better results overall? 
  
  
  
  I hate 
  to bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on what 
  to do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I drive it 
  alot. I also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty good. I just 
  don't know which ones will give the best results.
  
  
  
  Thanks
  
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander 
WerfSent: Thursday, June 
12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation
You can get the supercomps 
in from underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the 
motor mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a 
cherry picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it 
with the hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had 
to remove them a time or two. I have the 2” ceramic coated version and by 
laying a towel on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to 
install them more than once without scratching them.

As far as your question 
about header size; I would use the 1 ¾” setup for the street, even with a 
mild 454. If the car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, 
and did use the 2”. Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the 
motor, the bigger the pipe.

Bill Vander 
Werf

-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Craig 
EllisSent: Thursday, June 
12, 2003 7:07 PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation


Jeff,



Yeah, 
it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running 
with those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" 
headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, 
I'm really wondering which one's to go with.



Craig
-Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 
  PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  I installed a set of Hooker Header 
  Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was 
  to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them 
  from the bottom up into the engine compartment.
  
  
  
  Jeff 
  Wysocki
  
  Brownstown Twp., Michigan 
  
  
  1970 Chevelle 
  SS
  
  1968 
Chevelle
image001.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

This was 
good stuff. When I was done reading, I went downstairs and installed the smaller 
pipes.

C

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Tom 
  TomlinsonSent: Friday, June 13, 2003 6:35 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  I'm 
  no expert on this, but I found the Sanderson Header web site to be 
  helpful.
  
  See:
  
  http://www.sandersonheaders.com/letsgettech3.htm
  
  Tom 
  Tomlinson
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Craig 
EllisSent: Friday, June 13, 2003 12:19 AMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation
Bill,

Thanks 
very much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 
and 3/4. My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock 
Performer RPM. Comp Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration 
@ 50. Lobe sep is 110. Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift 
Muncie, Performer RPM intake with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 
3/4 or would the 2" produce better results overall? 

I hate 
to bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on 
what to do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I 
drive it alot. I also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty 
good. I just don't know which ones will give the best 
results.

Thanks

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander 
  WerfSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  You can get the supercomps in from 
  underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the motor 
  mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a cherry 
  picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it with the 
  hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had to 
  remove them a time or two. I have the 2” ceramic coated version and by 
  laying a towel on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to 
  install them more than once without scratching them.
  
  As far as your question about header 
  size; I would use the 1 ¾” setup for the street, even with a mild 454. If 
  the car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, and did use 
  the 2”. Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the motor, 
  the bigger the pipe.
  
  Bill Vander Werf
  
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig 
  EllisSent: Thursday, 
  June 12, 2003 
  7:07 
  PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  
  Jeff,
  
  
  
  Yeah, it's 
  looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with 
  those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" 
  headers are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, 
  I'm really wondering which one's to go with.
  
  
  
  Craig
  
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff 
WysockiSent: Wednesday, 
June 11, 2003 
5:16 
PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation

I installed a set of 
Hooker Header Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the 
drivers side was to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 
inches and slide them from the bottom up into the engine 
compartment.



Jeff Wysocki

Brownstown Twp., Michigan 

1970 Chevelle 
SS

1968 
Chevelle
image001.gif

[Chevelle-List] steering colume removal

[Craig Ellis]

It looks like I'll have 
to remove the steering colume to get the headers in on the drivers side. Anybody 
know the best way to do this???

Thanks,

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Engine setup!

[Craig Ellis]

Probably 
around 350hp. For performance, heads (with headers) are more important 
than any other part.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  LaharSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:58 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Engine 
  setup!
  At the moment my Chevelle's got a 402 (bored 
  0.30) an Edelbrock RPM Intake
  and a Holley 800 DP!
  What's the approx bhp for this combination 
   is there anything i should replace
  to get better performance without ruin 
  myself?
  I'm planning a full restoration of the engine 
  soon!
  
  Best RegardsPelle Andersson
  
  http://members.chello.se/trancearctica/gastrash/members/pelle641013/index.html

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Aint it the 
truth. So far, the pass side went in easily. The drive side is really tough. The 
BB motor is quite a bit wider than the SBC.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A 
  SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:23 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  If you lift the motor and the car, you 
  should be able to work it through from the top, without messing with the 
  steering. At least on my SB. Again, I'm not sure on the BB. 
  It was a pain even with my block! I'm fairly certain there are still a 
  few curse words lingering around in my garage from that 
  install!
  
  
  Sarge
  
  -Original 
  Message-From: Craig 
  Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:23 
  PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  
  Yeah, I 
  got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. 
  I'mwondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if 
  I can feed them in from the top.
  
  
  
  C
  
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 
3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, 
June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation
Well, I can't be entirely 
sure about a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, 
and lift the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car 
for the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough 
clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger 
side, nothing is required. The starter can still be attached. 
Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in 
there. 

Sarge
-Original 
Message-From: Craig 
Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 
PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation


Well, since I got 
so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone 
know which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my 
big block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering 
column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them 
on.



I need help on this 
one - anybody know how it's done???



Craig 
E.
image001.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Jeff,

Yeah, it's 
looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with those 
Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers are way 
too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really wondering 
which one's to go with.

Craig

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff 
  WysockiSent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 5:16 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  I installed a set of Hooker Header 
  Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was to 
  loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them from 
  the bottom up into the engine compartment.
  
  Jeff Wysocki
  Brownstown Twp., Michigan 
  
  1970 Chevelle SS
  1968 Chevelle
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Craig Ellis 

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:22 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation

Yeah, I 
got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a 
headache. I'mwondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume 
and see if I can feed them in from the top.

C

  -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf 
  Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
  [Chevelle-List] Header installation
  
  Well, I can't be entirely sure about 
  a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift 
  the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for 
  the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough 
  clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the 
  passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be 
  attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles 
  getting it in there. 
  
  Sarge
  -Original 
  Message-From: Craig 
  Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 
  PMTo: 
  ChevelleSubject: 
  [Chevelle-List] Header installation
  
  
  Well, since I got so much 
  help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know 
  which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big 
  block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering 
  column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them 
  on.
  
  
  
  I 
  need help on this one - anybody know how it's 
  done???
  
  
  
  Craig 
  E.
image001.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

They won't 
go in from underneath without removing the steering colume, I 
think.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of James Strunk 
  Jr.Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 7:26 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  Hey Craig,,,find a friend that works at a 
  service station,,put it up on a rack,,slide it in from 
  below
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Craig Ellis 

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:22 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation

Yeah, I 
got the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a 
headache. I'mwondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume 
and see if I can feed them in from the top.

C

  -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf 
  Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
  [Chevelle-List] Header installation
  
  Well, I can't be entirely sure about 
  a big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift 
  the motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for 
  the proper angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough 
  clearance. It's a pain, but it will fit. As far as the 
  passenger side, nothing is required. The starter can still be 
  attached. Good luck, I guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles 
  getting it in there. 
  
  Sarge
  -Original 
  Message-From: Craig 
  Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 
  PMTo: 
  ChevelleSubject: 
  [Chevelle-List] Header installation
  
  
  Well, since I got so much 
  help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know 
  which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big 
  block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering 
  column have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them 
  on.
  
  
  
  I 
  need help on this one - anybody know how it's 
  done???
  
  
  
  Craig 
  E.
image001.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Bill,

Thanks very 
much for the help. I've got one more question for you about the 2" vs 1 and 3/4. 
My engine is a 402 bored to 414ci. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM. Comp 
Cam Xtreme Energy with 552/555 lift and 230/236 duration @ 50. Lobe sep is 110. 
Domed pistons milled to give 9:7 to 1. Stick shift Muncie, Performer RPM intake 
with a matching carb. Would you still go 1 and 3/4 or would the 2" produce 
better results overall? 

I hate to 
bug you but, since I have both sets of headers, I'm keen for input on what to 
do. I've got to make a decision Saturday. The car is nice but I drive it alot. I 
also take it to the strip monthly and thrash it pretty good. I just don't know 
which ones will give the best results.

Thanks

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Bill Vander 
  WerfSent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:28 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  You can get the supercomps in from 
  underneath if you remove the oil filter and take the bolt out of the motor 
  mounts. Then you have to lift the motor up several inches with a cherry 
  picker. If you can get hold of the motor low enough you can do it with the 
  hood on. I installed the headers with the motor out but I have had to remove 
  them a time or two. I have the 2” ceramic coated version and by laying a towel 
  on the frame and control arm bolts I have been able to install them more than 
  once without scratching them.
  
  As far as your question about header 
  size; I would use the 1 ¾” setup for the street, even with a mild 454. If the 
  car is to live at the drag strip, as mine does, I would, and did use the 2”. 
  Again, that depends on your cubic inches. The bigger the motor, the bigger the 
  pipe.
  
  Bill Vander Werf
  
  -Original 
  Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of Craig 
  EllisSent: Thursday, June 
  12, 2003 
  7:07 
  PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  
  Jeff,
  
  
  
  Yeah, 
  it's looking that way for me too. BTW, what displacement are you running with 
  those Supercomps? A couple of buddies of mine are telling me that 2" headers 
  are way too big - should be 1 and 3/4. Since I have a set of each, I'm really 
  wondering which one's to go with.
  
  
  
  Craig
  
-Original 
Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Jeff 
WysockiSent: Wednesday, 
June 11, 2003 
5:16 
PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header 
installation

I installed a set of Hooker Header 
Supercomp headers, and the only way to get them in on the drivers side was 
to loosen motor mounts and lift the motor up about 2 inches and slide them 
from the bottom up into the engine compartment.



Jeff Wysocki

Brownstown Twp., Michigan 

1970 Chevelle 
SS

1968 
  Chevelle
image001.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] is it the coil?

[Craig Ellis]

I thought I had a coil going bad once but it turned out to be a failing
wire. The wire that led to the ballast resistor had corroded almost through.
As long as there was a connection, the car ran perfect. When it would break
connection it would behave as though I had water in the gas.

Craig E.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of tigergutt
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:58 AM
To: chevelle-list
Subject: Re:[Chevelle-List] is it the coil?


I dont think a coil can go bad, I think its either working or not working.

I had the same issue with my hei and changed the module, it worked fine
until it got hot and then it started missfiring, I later upgraded to an MSd
module, coil and bushing and its stronger than the original ever was.
If you go for the msd module remember to upgrade to a heavier gauge wire or
it will burn.

André



  Can anyone provide me with some symptoms if the HEI
 coil is going bad?

 Tonite, to solve my prob of my car running crappy, I
 figured I'd start with the obvious and change my
 plugs.  Yesterday I put new wires on it, and after
 changing the plugs, the car will barely stay running
 at the current idle settings.  A week ago it was
 totally fine- For anyone not familiar with my engine,
 it's a freshly rebuilt 327 with a brand spanking new
 Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb.  It was running great,
 I took it out for a 10 mile spin last Thurs nite, and
 as of Sunday I am having all of the issues described
 above.

 I have checked all vacuum lines, and they are all
 connected just as they were last week when it was
 running fine.  I have also looked at the distributor
 to make sure it didn't move, and it has not.

 Could this be that my hand-me-down HEI is dying?
 Would a dying coil cause the issues I'm having?

 Thanks,

 Jim
 '66 Malibu


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RE: [Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Yeah, I got 
the pass side in no problem. The driver side is proving to be a headache. 
I'mwondering if it makes sense to remove the steering colume and see if I 
can feed them in from the top.

C

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A 
  SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 11:36 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  Well, I can't be entirely sure about a 
  big block, but on my small block, I have to jack up the car, and lift the 
  motor off the mounts for the drivers side. I lift the car for the proper 
  angle, and lift the motor off the mounts for just enough clearance. It's 
  a pain, but it will fit. As far as the passenger side, nothing is 
  required. The starter can still be attached. Good luck, I 
  guarantee that you will bust a few knuckles getting it in there. 
  
  
  Sarge
  -Original 
  Message-From: Craig 
  Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:48 
  PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Header 
  installation
  
  
  Well, since I got 
  so much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know 
  which parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big 
  block 70 Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column 
  have to move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them 
  on.
  
  
  
  I need help on 
  this one - anybody know how it's done???
  
  
  
  Craig 
  E.
image001.gif

[Chevelle-List] Valve covers

[Craig Ellis]

I've found that I need 
a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does anyone know of 
a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big ones like the 
Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my vacume can or my heater 
core housing. 

I'm looking especially 
for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just plain is my 
preference, but at this point I'll take all suggestions.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Cleaning a cast iron intake manifold

[Craig Ellis]

Just a thought, but an engine builder buddy of mine opines that since the
blocks and manifolds were sand cast originally, they must have had a way to
get the sand out reliably. That's why there are all those extra holes.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of gm2
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 8:49 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Cleaning a cast iron intake manifold


Hi,

I just picked up a cast iron 4 barrel intake manifold from a fellow list
member, Brad O.  The manifold needs to be cleaned since the inside has some
surface rust and some rust particles that are falling out.

Can I bead blast the unit and how do I clean it up so no particles fall into
the engine after it is installed?  I plan on buying a bench top blaster, so
this might be the perfect excuse to get one.  Or, would I be better off
sending the part out to get cleaned and dipped?

The underside has an aluminum cover that looks like it is riveted on.  Can
this be removed and can I get replacement rivets to put it back on.

After it is clean, should I use any paint on the underside to stop any ne
rust particles from forming?

Thanks,

Gary
64 Chevelle Convertible


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[Chevelle-List] Header installation

[Craig Ellis]

Well, since I got so 
much help on the valve covers, I'll try a harder problem. Does anyone know which 
parts have to be removed to get a set of Hooker headers onto my big block 70 
Chevelle? So far, it looks like the starter and the steering column have to 
move. I'd HATE to have to remove the heads to get them on.

I need help on this one 
- anybody know how it's done???

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



Dang, those are NICE 
covers. I think I'm gonna go for the ball milled jobs. I figured out that short 
ones will work if I use a spacer. BTW, it's a BB motor.

Craig

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dale 
  McIntoshSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 9:15 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve 
  covers
  What engine? Billet Specialties has short and tall covers 
  for both small and big block Chevys in a plain, no design, style. Go to 
  http://www.billetspecialties.com 
  and click the "Valve Covers  Accessories" link. Small block units 
  are $80 a pair and big block units go for $160. Small block short covers 
  are 2.550" overall height and the tall ones are 3.700". Big block units 
  don't list the overall height of either style.
  Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709 67SS/67 Elky Dales Place  My 67 
  SS and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff  Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67  1967 
  Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles  Midwest Chevelle Show Information 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 11:38 
AMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] Valve 
covers
I've found that I 
need a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does anyone 
know of a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big ones like 
the Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my vacume can or my 
heater core housing. 

I'm looking 
especially for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just plain 
is my preference, but at this point I'll take all 
suggestions.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Valve covers

[Craig Ellis]

Well, they're beautiful but 
won't work. That doesnt bother me much considering the price. The clearance 
problem is with my power brake canister. I think the double gasket solution 
might work. Another solution I found this afternoon are spacers. They are made 
by Stef's and Flatlander Racing sells them for about $80 a set. They raise the 
covers about 1 inch. Just perfect for my needs.

Craig

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Kyle 
  BennettSent: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:35 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Valve 
  covers
  

  
Here they are

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=23147prmenbr=361

Kyle

---Original 
Message---


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Monday, June 
09, 2003 2:23:52 PM
To: Chevelle
Subject: 
[Chevelle-List] Valve covers

I've found that 
I need a somewhat taller than stock valve cover but just slightly. Does 
anyone know of a brand that is taller than stock but not those great big 
ones like the Edelbrock "Elite" style? The Elite style won't clear my 
vacume can or my heater core housing. 

I'm looking 
especially for cast aluminum, hopefully with no logo or writing - just 
plain is my preference, but at this point I'll take all 
suggestions.

Craig 
E.


  

  
  


 
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click 
  Here
IMSTP.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible possibly 1969 El Camino

[Craig Ellis]

I think Rich is onto something here. I squawk about the flaws on my car and
have even laid awake at night fussing over it. But there is no doubt in my
mind that I'm the only one who sees that stuff. Most everyone who has ever
seen the car thinks it's flawless. Of course, that's only because no one
has ever really seen a flawless one!

I drive the car to work (when it runs), drive it to shows, put car seats in
the back and my kids squash the occassional freedom fry into the carpet (it
cleans right up) and so on. But, to me, the car is worthless unless I'm
driving it and lets face it, driving it causes wear  tear.

The only thing worse than getting a car painted is getting a house built.

Craig E.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard M. Pruett
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 9:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible 
possibly 1969 El Camino


John,

I, too, am a perfectionist. I can point out flaws all over my truck; the
truck I learned to drive on and kissed my first girl in. BUT, you are
talking about a road driven, worked hard, 35 year old truck that was abused
by me as a teenager! It's my truck and I love to drive it; feels like I've
gone back in time and I love it when people look and wave.

I remember seeing the pictures of your elky from the junkyard and followed
the saga up to the painted, almost finished elky and felt your emotions
flowing through your e-mails about how excited you were to almost get her
home. True, I haven't seen her in person by I suspect that many of the
flaws you are concerned about, will not be visible to those of us who do not
know her as well as you do. I would bet that if you were ask the list about
their cars, if they are honest, they would tell you that they too have
little things that bug the crap out of them.

John, you saved another old vehicle from the dreaded crusher; enjoy it. I
promise you, if you sell it after waiting so long and coming so far with
this project, you will not forgive yourself.

Rich



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible 
possibly 1969 El Camino


The Elky is not terrible. It's decent but it's not what I had in mind. I'm a
real perfectionist with this stuff and another person might think it looks
just fine. I don't think I want to pay to have the body and paint and floor
pans done over. I have it in a friend's garage. He has a lift and a mig
welder, and we will probably do the floor pans ourselves. Then it will be a
very decent looking and completely solid car with no rot or bondo patchwork.
I would put it in a garage under a cover except that right now garages cost
me $150/month to rent, so that's more money out the window. Insurance
through Hagerty is only about $75/year so if I'm keeping it in a garage I
would definitely keep it registered anyway.

John Nasta



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt
3CS/SCBS
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 5:21 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible  possibly
1969 El Camino

AAA!  Don't give up on the ELKY!  Just 'cuz ya had a little
trouble with the body guy, doesn't mean you need to give up on the car.  I
personally thought that the paint job and body work came out pretty damn
good, at least from what I could tell in the pictures.  Hell, I'd be happy
with that paintjob on my Chevelle.  Anyway, I think I speak for the majority
of us when I say that we have all had someone along the resto line give us a
bad shake.  You can take a break, sure, but put the car in the garage, under
a cover, and let it sit for a while.  Trust me after all the work you put
into it, you'll regret selling it before too long.  I still kick my own a$$
everytime I think about the V8 S10 I built and sold within a couple months.
Damn, I though about it again, now I have to kick my own A$$.  Ouch!

Sarge


-Original Message-
From: John Nasta [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 9:52 AM
To: Chevelle List; Olds Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-List] FS - 1968 Ninety Eight convertible  possibly 1969
El Camino

Hi all,

I am thinking about selling my Olds and maybe even the El Camino. After last
week's fiasco I think I want to take a break from it all.

The Olds:

10.25:1 455 w/ 4bbl has 20k on complete stock rebuild. +.010 crank, stock
pistons, original distributor, stock cam, original air cleaner in good cond.
About 3k miles on new transmission. Matching-numbers transmission needs work
but goes with the car. It's an excellent running car. I have driven it from
NY to North Carolina and back w/o any trouble. Master cylinder, all wheel
cylinders, all shocks  springs have been replaced. Everything works 

[Chevelle-List] Head bolt torque

[Craig Ellis]

Well, I was just about 
to start torquing head bolts when I read the Edelbrock sheet, then the ARP sheet 
and, guess what...they disagreed. Edelbrock says torque to 75 on all but the 
shorties and ARP says "we recommend 60 pounds on aluminum head due to rapid heat 
expansion rate" blah blah blah.

What say the list: 60 
or 75?

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] SBC head bolt sealant

[Craig Ellis]

The ARP stuff is bound to be good. I'm using Permatex because I can buy it
at the local parts store.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 9:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] SBC head bolt sealant


What's the best sealant to use on SBC head bolts?  I'm going to be using
black
Permatex for the intake end seals but don't know if it's appropriate for the
head bolts.  Thanks!

Brad O.

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RE: [Chevelle-List] Transport from CA to FL??

[Craig Ellis]

Ditto the 
comments belowon AAA Transport out of Arizona. Really the worse experience 
I've ever had moving ANYTHING by truck. 

I'd go with 
the earlier recommendation someone made to not use a hauler unless you can meet 
them first, review their insurance policy and even check with the underwriter to 
make sure they are covered. OTR trucking is positively RIFE with dipsticks and 
thieves.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 2:08 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-List] Transport from CA to FL??i have just one comment. Do not use E  J 
  transport service out of Sacramento. They messed my car up hauling it from 
  Corona, Calif. to Portland Oregon. the car disappeared for 5 days and had 2000 
  bucks worth of damage to it. They would not give me the name of their 
  insurance company and after they finally did they wouldn't give me the phone 
  number. After about 2 weeks of fighting I got in touch with the company. The 
  claim had been turned in that day. immediately the adjuster thought something 
  was fishy and told me not to worry within 5 days I had a check cut to me for 
  2100 and some change. I wouldn't let them haul a f**d to the wrecking yard. 
  Larry 
  (Z) 

RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are you from?

[Craig Ellis]

Will do, Carl. I'm over there quite a bit. Planning a couple trips to Grand
Bend this summer for test  tune, etc. I'll post you when I'm coming over.

C

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carl Farnand
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 8:44 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are
you from?


Craig.  It's a long summer.  We have cruise nights on Sunday nights at the
AW across from Lambton Mall.  Bring your wheels over one night and I will
ensure that I have a good Canadian beer on tap if I know your coming.
Carl

-Original Message-
From: Craig Ellis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 8:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are
you from?


Hey, Carl.

I wish I would have known you were in Sarnia. I'm in Port Huron. I was over
last Saturday night at the River Rock Cafe sitting in with some old musician
buddies of mine. I would have stood you a Blue had I known.

Craig Ellis
70 SS

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carl Farnand
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2003 8:30 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle Listers,who are you and where are
you from?


Carl Farnand
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada,
55 yrs. old, 69 SS 396

This site has been a great source of information especially for myself who
is new to Chevelle restorations and somewhat mechanically challenged but
willing to learn and try.  Who said an old dog can't learn new tricks.
Presently converting my SS to a 4-speed.  Thanks for all your help so far!

Carl



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RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



Thanks, Brad. That's 
good advice. I'll probably keep it. It will do untill the price of 5mg/p cameras 
drops enough to persuade me to buy one. I'm not all that into gadgets - I'm just 
too cheap to buy them when they first come out. Shoot, I didn't buy a DVD player 
until they hit $139 at Sam's Club.


  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad 
  WallerSent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 12:58 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital 
  cameras
  If the 4230 works, 
  then keep it. I have a 1.3 mega pixel camera that I still use. I 
  would not mind higher resolution to let me have full screen shots that are a 
  bit clearer than what I have now, but all the pictures you saw were taken with 
  that camera. So you have twice the resolution! If you are doing 
  pictures for the computer, you really have all the resolution you will need 
  until you decide to get into some more advanced stuff. For 4x6 prints, 
  youwill not notice a difference, and you can goto 5x7 without 
  noticeable pixels. I think if you made an 8x10 you mightnot like 
  it, but then again you might be different from me andthink it is 
  OK. For point and shoot, you will be fine.
  
  Brad 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:15 
PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
[Chevelle-List] digital cameras
Yeah, that's a good 
point. I already deleted one of the "portraits"that showed her running 
away...

I thought about the 
4330 model but Target was clearing out the 4230's for $169 and it seemed 
like a good deal.Is the quality of the pics you get with the 4330 
worth the extra dough? If memory serves, they were about $300 at 
Target.

Craig 
E

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad 
  WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:40 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital 
  cameras
  Yep, they all do 
  that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You 
  will be hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If 
  you get the dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you 
  may never need to buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, 
  and you may never have to do anything other than dock the camera. I 
  know how easy this is, because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB 
  cardfor our daughter'sPre-School for the teachers to 
  use. 
  
  As for taking 
  pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and 
  have taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. 
  At least with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones 
  and then re-take the ones that did not work.
  
  Brad Waller 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig 
EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 PMTo: 
ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital 
cameras
I have what is 
probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera 
just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I 
noticed that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a 
delay between when you press the shutter button and when it actually 
takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this 
or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three 
year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast 
that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next 
room.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Restoration Shops

[Craig Ellis]

Well, if it 
were me, I'd get out the yellow pages and look up a BUSINESS attorney. Not a 
slip  fall guy, not a divorce and reckless driving guy, but a business 
lawyer. There will not be many in town that specialize in business and corporate 
law but the ones that do are usually pretty heads-up guys/gals. They almost 
never work this stuff on contingency, but a good one WILL get you results and 
will get enough to pay his fees.

Remember 
that the business law world is very "mature". That means they all know the way 
the system works and they all know the system is pretty fair, all things said 
 done. You'll be able to tell if you have a good one by the advicehe 
gives you. If you hear something that sounds too good to be true, chances are it 
is.

Lastly, make 
sure your expectations are reasonable. You are not going to get a free 
restoration out of this no matter how PO'ed you are. You're not even going to 
get "craftsmanship" or even have all the dust and dirt cleaned up. You're going 
to get the same kind of work that the judge gets on his Caddy when somebody 
bendshis fender in the parking lot. So, it's important to look at your 
situation like any "reasonable" person would and decide if you really got 
screwed or the guy just did a mediocre job.

It is 
important to understand that non-criminal matters only have one "remedy": Money. 
What happens in arbitration and in court is "reasonable" men and women decide 
who should get how much money and then they figure out which laws support that 
decision. You can't force someone to do anything except compensate you for 
losses you can document...there ain't no "Pain  Suffering". It's all about 
the hard dollars, no more, noless.

And remember 
that anytime you call an attorney you are about toburn a bridge. 
Personally, I make sure that I never mention the word unless there is absolutely 
no other recourse. When that happens, I don't threaten to call my lawyer, I DO 
call him (and pay the $175 an hour bill). 

I know I'm 
not being very supportive here, but I've been down this path a few times and 
this is what I've learned. A genuine legal dispute is expensive and painful and 
very, very unpleasant, even when you win.

craig 
e.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Crazy 
  RustySent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 12:35 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] 
  Restoration Shops
  
  Does anyone know of any good 
  restoration shops in Washington 
  State?
  
  I recently had my vehicle worked 
  on at Buffalo Restorations (www.autorestorations.com) in 
  Puyallup, 
  WA. I had been 
  rear-ended on a freeway and heard that they had a pretty good reputation for 
  restorations. I took my vehicle there, I showed them all of the damaged 
  areas (front end, left quarter panel, seat, and front left fender) had them 
  check it out and give me a rough estimate and then went back to the insurance 
  company for the check. After some haggling with the insurance, I got the 
  money and got them rolling on it. The original estimate was for about 
  3500 or so. After awhile they needed a supplement of about $1100 and 
  then another supplement of $2200 or so. The total from the insurance 
  company came to about 7000 when everything was said in done. After days 
  of them telling me the car would be done the next day (that went on for over a 
  week), I was finally able to go pick up the car. I did a quick check on 
  some things before I left; found one or two items and mentioned them to the 
  shop manager. A few days later I noticed a few more things, and a week 
  after that I noticed a few more and then last week I noticed a hell of a lot 
  more. Pretty soon I found that after I got my car back, it had more 
  problems then before I took it in. I took it in, basically, to get the 
  frame pulled and the damage caused by the accident repaired. Got it back 
  with the rear bumper bent and missing parts, the dash lights not working, 
  reverse lamps cut out, front bumper bent downwards and smashed in, primer 
  sprayed on my rear window, windshield jug melted, the left rear marker bezel 
  broken, the molding on the left rear fender gone, the seat frame broken, the 
  rear defroster not working, package tray warped, more mold then 2yr old 
  cheese, some type of dust (sanding dust?) EVERYWHERE, and, to top it all off, 
  when they repainted the car they didnt ask me what color it was, they assumed 
  it was a certain color and then painted it. Now, I am young and I am 
  inexperienced in having others work on my car. I also dont know a hell 
  of a lot about the car in the first place. So in addition to my first 
  question, is there anything I should have done differently? Did I ASK to 
  have the shop screw me? In my business (IT) you are 
  supposed to not only know 

[Chevelle-List] digital cameras

[Craig Ellis]

I have what is probably 
a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just for snapping 
pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that it does not work 
like my regular camera in that there is a delay between when you press the 
shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. Drives me nuts. My question 
is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a 
picture of a three year old when there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move 
so fast that by the time the shutter clicks they're in the next 
room.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



Yeah, that's a good 
point. I already deleted one of the "portraits"that showed her running 
away...

I thought about the 
4330 model but Target was clearing out the 4230's for $169 and it seemed like a 
good deal.Is the quality of the pics you get with the 4330 worth the extra 
dough? If memory serves, they were about $300 at Target.

Craig 
E

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad 
  WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:40 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital 
  cameras
  Yep, they all do 
  that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You will be 
  hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If you get the 
  dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you may never need to 
  buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, and you may never have 
  to do anything other than dock the camera. I know how easy this is, 
  because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB cardfor our 
  daughter'sPre-School for the teachers to use. 
  
  As for taking 
  pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and have 
  taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. At least 
  with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones and then 
  re-take the ones that did not work.
  
  Brad Waller 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Craig EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 
PMTo: ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital 
cameras
I have what is 
probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera just 
for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed that 
it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay between 
when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the photo. 
Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this Kodak. I 
mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when there's a 
1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time the shutter 
clicks they're in the next room.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] digital cameras

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



She's a cutie, 
allright! Man, I love 'em when they're that age! Mine are 3  5 now. If I 
wasn't so old and cranky, I'd have a few more.



  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Brad 
  WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:55 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] digital 
  cameras
  I forgot one other 
  thing. You can "pre-focus" most cameras by slightly pressing on the 
  shutter button. Once you have done this, the time to take the picture is 
  close to 1/10 of a second. Practice this technique and you will have 
  much better luck with kids and animals! I have not updated the pages in 
  a while, but here are links to a few hundred digital pictures of my 
  daughter:http://ep.com/brad/mari/
  
  I now use the flash 
  for virtually every picture - this seems to help quite a 
  bit.
  
  Brad 
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Brad WallerSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:40 
PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
[Chevelle-List] digital cameras
Yep, they all do 
that. The Kodak is a pretty decent entry level camera. You will 
be hard pressed to find one that is easier to use that this. If you 
get the dock and rechargeable battery that comes with the dock, you may 
never need to buy a battery for it. Get a decent memory card, and you 
may never have to do anything other than dock the camera. I know how 
easy this is, because I bought the 4330, dock, and a128 MB cardfor our 
daughter'sPre-School for the teachers to use. 


As for taking 
pictures of three year olds, I've had a digital for about three years and 
have taken hundreds of pictures of our almost 4 year old daughter. At 
least with the digital you can review the pictures, trash the bad ones and 
then re-take the ones that did not work.

Brad Waller 

  
  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig 
  EllisSent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:25 PMTo: 
  ChevelleSubject: [Chevelle-List] digital 
  cameras
  I have what is 
  probably a silly question. I just picked up a Kodak 4230 digital camera 
  just for snapping pics of cars and stuff for ebay, etc. However, I noticed 
  that it does not work like my regular camera in that there is a delay 
  between when you press the shutter button and when it actually takes the 
  photo. Drives me nuts. My question is, are they ALL like this or just this 
  Kodak. I mean, imagine trying to take a picture of a three year old when 
  there's a 1.5 second delay. Shoot, my kids move so fast that by the time 
  the shutter clicks they're in the next room.
  
  Craig 
  E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] 69 El Camino update

[Craig Ellis]

I noticed Clint mentioned how paint was such a priority. I have to confess,
I accepted some flaws in my car to get one with stellar body work and
excellent paint. There are SO many guys in the paint  body business that
have been sniffing fumes too long or, as Clint pointed out, on the insurance
gravy train. A couple years ago, I asked a local shop to put a trunk pan in
a '72 Chevelle I had at the time and he laughed. He would not even LOOK at
it, let alone bother giving me a quote. Really - he would not even look at
the car!

Boy, I'm in the wrong business...

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 3:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] 69 El Camino update


He's a good guy. He's just having a rough time. Bad economy, a few customers
screwed him, one guy died owing him a ton of money, etc. I have no ill
feelings, but I still at least need it to come home with paint on it. I can
do the other work myself, but I didn't spend all this money for it to end up
being my first home-made paint job, and if I have to find another guy while
it's in primer, I'm going to get reamed. Keep your fingers crossed that it
comes out well.

John Nasta





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RE: [Chevelle-List] Steering Box Rebuild

[Craig Ellis]

Larry,

I'd like a 
copy: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks 
much.

Craig 
E.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  RMilkiewiczSent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 10:46 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Steering 
  Box Rebuild
  Larry, some time ago I sent several people on the 
  list an article on rebuilding the Saginaw steering box. I still have it on my 
  drive. Would you like a copy? It's 4 pages.
  Rich
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Larry 
Butler 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 10:47 
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Steering Box 
Rebuild

I 
have a '72 El Camino with power steering. I am in the process of rebuilding 
the front end. While pulling the center link I noticed a lot of power 
steering fluid leaking down the pitman arm. I suspect the 31 year old pitman 
shaft seal on the steering boxis leaking.

Question: I can't seem to find literature on how to 
rebuild the steering box. Has anyone out there rebuilt a steering box? What 
is involved? Is it better to have it rebuilt? I suppose there are rebuild 
kits, but I am worried about tools. I don't have a machine shop.I got 
a quote from a local shop$180 to rebuild it (in California labor is 
high).

Thanks,

Larry

RE: [Chevelle-List] My ride.

[Craig Ellis]

I just 
checked out your site. Beautiful Impala. I have one question tho' - how 
did you wreck so many vehicles???

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Dan 
  McIntoshSent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 7:36 AMTo: impala 
  list; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] My 
  ride.
  Got my 64 Impala sitting on its own 4 wheels 
  again yesterday!!! It sits 3.75 inches from the floor when its dropped 
  looks like its about 30 feet long sitting like this...
  
  cool, just excited and wanted to 
  share...
  
  take it easy...
  
  Dan McIntoshBagged 64 Impala SSwww.alloldchevy.com

[Chevelle-List] Chevelle dash question

[Craig Ellis]

I just busted a guy's 
chops on ebay for selling a Monte dash with the woodgrain panel as an SS 
Chevelle dash. He told me that the woodgrain panel was an option on Chevelles. 
Does anyone know if the woodgrain overlay was an option on these cars??? If I 
gave him a rash of crap and was wrong I'll have to 
apologize...

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Check out Molested Cars.com

[Craig Ellis]

Man, I have 
not laughed that hard in DAYS. Geez, that was funny.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 5:59 
  PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: 
  [Chevelle-List] Check out Molested Cars.comClick 
  here: Molested Cars.com 

RE: [Chevelle-List] Battery Draining

[Craig Ellis]

Title: Message



I hope you 
report back on the resulst. I had the same problem with a 72 Chevelle - drove me 
nuts. I finally put in a battery disconnect so I wouldn't get 
stranded.

Craig 
E.

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John W. 
  Lonadier, Jr.Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 2:32 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Battery 
  Draining
  WELL 
  I FOUND IT! IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE ALTERNATOR ITSELF. I was talking 
  to a friend a work and he asked me when did it start doing it and what did you 
  do to it around the same time. That's when I remembered that I had unplugged 
  the alternator WITH THE BATTERY STILL HOOKED UP!! DUH, I KNOW BETTER 
  THAN DOING THAT. I did try the regulator first but that was not it. So after 
  the battery charged last night I was able to fire her up a go to AutoZone 
  where they checked my charging system on the car and it said that there was a 
  bad diode in the alternator. I bought another one, alternator, from them and 
  changed it in the parking lot. Hope that does it, I will find out tomorrow 
  morning when I try it because I left the battery hooked 
up.
  Thanks Clint, Cecil "Steve" and Blazerman for all the 
  help.
  
  John L.
  ACES #5597
  70 SS 454
  LS5 CLONE
  

-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of Clint HooperSent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 
8:07 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
[Chevelle-List] Battery Draining
I had a charging problem this week with my 69. 
The former owner of my car had installed an elaborate alarm system and it 
was causing all sorts of bugs,,a failed starter for one. I installed a new 
starter yesterday but it would only start by using the old screwdriver 
trick. The solution was to remove the alarm system and re-wire everything. 
It now starts like a charm.
Clint HooperLT5 Registry Director'91 ZR-1 Callaway 
Aerobodyhttp://www.LT5Registry.net/'69 El 
Camino ProTourer ACES #1650http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint_hooper.htm'99 
Honda F6 Valkyrie custom for sale

[Chevelle-List] Upper control arms

[Craig Ellis]

I bought some upper 
control arms from Currie and they arrived today. They appear to be just about 
the roughest, toughest control arm I have ever seen. Fully adjustable with a 
"turnbuckle" arrangement. Expensive as stink but they look to be the real deal. 
Should be able to adjust pinion angle and preload in minutes and from the look 
of them, I don't think it would be possible to break them.

Eman
tech.gif

[Chevelle-List] Oddball email

[Craig Ellis]

Recently I put the SBC 
my nephew and I built out on Mortec to sell. I've received a couple of emails 
requesting "name, address, phone" in order to send me a "certified check" and to 
arrange shipping. I know this is some sort scam, the nature of which I can only 
guess at, but if you happen to get one of those "too good to be true" emails, it 
likely is. I suppose they are using the information to steal something, somehow. 
It just shows you how many of these dirtballs are out there when they show up 
trolling sites like Mortec. I mean, unless you're a Chevy guy, that's a pretty 
obscure website.

Craig 
E.
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 19:35:00 -0500

[Craig Ellis]

It can't be that bad, Phil. 


You're catching all the flack 
because the instructions are crystal clear and easy to follow AND you can't even 
subscribe to this list unless you read them! In case you can't find your way to 
the Chevelle list, here are the instructions...and please read them all as they 
are all important:


To Unsubscribe from the ListTo unsubscribe 
(immediately) from the Chevelle Mailing List

  Send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Put the following in the BODY of the email: unsubscribe chevelle-list 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED](now, make sure and change 
  yourname to your name, ok?) 
  This MUST be sent from the address that you subscribed from. 
  Do not put anything else in the email, this includes a 'signature' as the 
  program thinks everything in the email is a command. If in doubt, put the word 
  end on a line by itself right after your unsubscribe request. 
  
  Problems? No Problem... send your request to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we 
  will remove you, no need to panic.Please try and unsubscribe first as we 
  get a TON of email each day (if you thought the list sent you a lot of mail, 
  hey, you ain't seen noth'in! 
  All this was explained in the email you received when you joined - which 
  you probably deleted... that's OK, but don't get cranky at all the members on 
  the list if you want to unsubscribe RIGHT NOW. Be patient, they are. 
  IF you send your unsubscribe request to the entire mailing list (over 200 
  people) you better expect to get a couple of annoyed replies. So, don't hit 
  the reply key to an email from the list and ask to unsubscribe. It's like 
  picking up the phone on a party line and yelling for them to hang up. 
  Sometimes it works, sometimes it just gets 'em mad. 
  Still in doubt? OK, click this email link and type help in 
  the body of the email. We will send you a big list of all the stuff Majordomo 
  can do to help you better follow a mailing list. 
  Note that if you have several list aliases, you should unsubscribe from 
  those aliases as well as the one you are receiving the list on. 


  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  jamesSent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 4:35 PMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-List] Date: Wed, 5 
  Mar 2003 19:35:00 -0500
  All that jazz about me getting off the chevelle list is to 
  much , you all just about made me cry , I don't mind to talk to you all but I 
  had over 100 e-mail's to day and that's about 1 to many . well thanks any way 
  . Phillip

[Chevelle-List] More great OEM news

[Craig Ellis]

Well, GM has it's 
problems with resurecting marques but so does Ford. I just heard today that Ford 
is bringing back the Galaxie 500  Mercury Montego line...based on a Volvo 
platform. Insiders at Ford are calling it a "Ford Passat". That should tell you 
what it's gonna look like.Hilarious.

Eman
tech.gif

RE: [Chevelle-List] 68-72 El Camino FRAME

[Craig Ellis]

Yes, sir, I might be interested. WOuld you please contact me offline at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks.

Craig Ellis

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Blawkamp
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2003 6:49 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] 68-72 El Camino FRAME


I have a El Camino frame in Long Island. Can anybody use it? It is rolling
with rear end.  Thanks --- Tom B.


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