Re: [Chevelle-list] Help please withTransmission codes
I have a preson that wants to sell his 69 (so he says) Rock crusher Transmission M22 he has given me the codes off the housing and I was hoping that you guys could help me decifer it 3846429? 3925660? R9R37B Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe P.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help please withTransmission codes
Joe, Looks like your transmission is made of different pieces and that's not uncommon. 3846429 is the number for a 63-65 tail housing, driver side speedometer, 27 spline 3925660 is the number for 1968-1970 main case R9R27B is a mystery. Is this a stamped sequence or a casting? The only way to really insure it has a M22 gear setup in it is to pull the side cover and inspect the cut of the gears. See http://www.chevellestuff.com/qd/muncie.htm for a comparison of M20/M21 to M22 Dale _ From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of rotty...@aol.com Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 5:57 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help please withTransmission codes I have a preson that wants to sell his 69 (so he says) Rock crusher Transmission M22 he has given me the codes off the housing and I was hoping that you guys could help me decifer it 3846429 3925660 R9R37B Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Joe P. _ Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal000 1 Takes it Off to learn how.
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
What Tom said! With Epoxy primer on the interior floors you don't even have to top coat it. Trooper - Original Message - From: Tom Rightler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Like I said, it belongs in the trash can. If the metal is clean, epoxy primer it, then top coat it. Epoxy primer is a non pourous primer/sealer. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Thank you all for your input. I am now thinking twice about using POR-15 on any rust surfaces on my car. I think I rather use regular sheet metal and patch up any rust damage, which is the best result to get rid of rust areas. As for the POR-15, is it just worthless? Can it be better used as a protectant on non-rust areas? For example, I was thinking of also cleaning the floor pan with the POR-15 floor kit. My floor is not rusty, but I just want to clean it up and seal it with a protectant. Or does anyone know a different protectant that actually works that I can put on top of NON-rusty areas, such as floor pan and the trunk floor, to keep it protected from water, moisture, and so it won't rust? thanks guys -Eddie - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 08:55:52 -0500 POR-15 literature gives you the impression you can just remove loose rust and brush. I disagree and would expect that rust would eventually come back. The stuff is a cyanoacrylate coating that creates a seal to block moisture. My recomendation is always to remove as much rust as possible. I used it to prevent the light surface rust or rust in the bottom of pits from ever coming back as well as taking advantage of its durability and chip prevention. Kind of a security measure. I did my frame about 5 years back and it still looks great. I top coated it more for appearance than UV protection as I mentioned on my website. Thanks, Dan It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ -- From: chakev...@comcast.net To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 00:52:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Wow thanks guys,changing my mind about the por-15 now,her that Dan S.Charlie here from the other topic,bench seat and gas tank stuff. - Original Message - From: Johann Grobler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, bluess...@comcast.net writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010) -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com! No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008 9:02 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Thank you all for your input. I am now thinking twice about using POR-15 on any rust surfaces on my car. I think I rather use regular sheet metal and patch up any rust damage, which is the best result to get rid of rust areas. As for the POR-15, is it just worthless? Can it be better used as a protectant on non-rust areas? For example, I was thinking of also cleaning the floor pan with the POR-15 floor kit. My floor is not rusty, but I just want to clean it up and seal it with a protectant. Or does anyone know a different protectant that actually works that I can put on top of NON-rusty areas, such as floor pan and the trunk floor, to keep it protected from water, moisture, and so it won't rust? thanks guys -Eddie - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 08:55:52 -0500 POR-15 literature gives you the impression you can just remove loose rust and brush. I disagree and would expect that rust would eventually come back. The stuff is a cyanoacrylate coating that creates a seal to block moisture. My recomendation is always to remove as much rust as possible. I used it to prevent the light surface rust or rust in the bottom of pits from ever coming back as well as taking advantage of its durability and chip prevention. Kind of a security measure. I did my frame about 5 years back and it still looks great. I top coated it more for appearance than UV protection as I mentioned on my website. Thanks, Dan It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ From: chakev...@comcast.net To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 00:52:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Wow thanks guys,changing my mind about the por-15 now,her that Dan S.Charlie here from the other topic,bench seat and gas tank stuff. - Original Message - From: Johann GroblerTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:03 AMSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT!Johann - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.comto: chevelle-l...@chevelles.netsent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AMSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, bluess...@comcast.net writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010) -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Like I said, it belongs in the trash can. If the metal is clean, epoxy primer it, then top coat it. Epoxy primer is a non pourous primer/sealer. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Thank you all for your input. I am now thinking twice about using POR-15 on any rust surfaces on my car. I think I rather use regular sheet metal and patch up any rust damage, which is the best result to get rid of rust areas. As for the POR-15, is it just worthless? Can it be better used as a protectant on non-rust areas? For example, I was thinking of also cleaning the floor pan with the POR-15 floor kit. My floor is not rusty, but I just want to clean it up and seal it with a protectant. Or does anyone know a different protectant that actually works that I can put on top of NON-rusty areas, such as floor pan and the trunk floor, to keep it protected from water, moisture, and so it won't rust? thanks guys -Eddie - Original Message - From: Daniel Solomon To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 08:55:52 -0500 POR-15 literature gives you the impression you can just remove loose rust and brush. I disagree and would expect that rust would eventually come back. The stuff is a cyanoacrylate coating that creates a seal to block moisture. My recomendation is always to remove as much rust as possible. I used it to prevent the light surface rust or rust in the bottom of pits from ever coming back as well as taking advantage of its durability and chip prevention. Kind of a security measure. I did my frame about 5 years back and it still looks great. I top coated it more for appearance than UV protection as I mentioned on my website. Thanks, Dan It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ From: chakev...@comcast.net To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 00:52:35 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Wow thanks guys,changing my mind about the por-15 now,her that Dan S.Charlie here from the other topic,bench seat and gas tank stuff. - Original Message - From: Johann Grobler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, bluess...@comcast.net writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010) -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com! -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1845 - Release Date: 12/12/2008 9:02 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
POR-15 literature gives you the impression you can just remove loose rust and brush. I disagree and would expect that rust would eventually come back. The stuff is a cyanoacrylate coating that creates a seal to block moisture. My recomendation is always to remove as much rust as possible. I used it to prevent the light surface rust or rust in the bottom of pits from ever coming back as well as taking advantage of its durability and chip prevention. Kind of a security measure. I did my frame about 5 years back and it still looks great. I top coated it more for appearance than UV protection as I mentioned on my website.Thanks, Dan It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry.http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 00:52:35 -0500Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Wow thanks guys,changing my mind about the por-15 now,her that Dan S.Charlie here from the other topic,bench seat and gas tank stuff. - Original Message - From: Johann Grobler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good!HarlanIn a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly.Tom RightlerMCC Newsletter Editor**Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
What many people don't think about when it comes to the rust coatings is whne
they apply it to the rust they see, there is rust underneath, as in the
opposite side of the panel, either under spot welds or the whole panel
altogather. The only way I have ever been able to stop rust is to cut ALL of it
out. The coatings do a good job for what they are. But when you are able to it
is best to fix it right and fix it once. I have used POR-15 on frames and
suspension parts, and then just because I am anal about it I paint them
(sometimes off the wall colors, think grey A- frames it makes people keep their
undercarraige clean!!!). And so far I have one vehicle I did ('88 GMC) that is
a daily driver and still looks good 4 years later, rock chips and all.
Josh Campbell
The Body Shop (606) 265-5301
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right stuff)
71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)
--- On Mon, 12/8/08, Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Date: Monday, December 8, 2008, 9:28 AM
Eddie,
Are the windows out? If not they need to come out. What you see now will be
the tip of the iceberg. If your looking directly at the channels with the
windows out now, then blast. Epoxy prime if all looks good. If you blow through
with the blaster remove and replace.
Rust inhibitors will do nothing but make things worse. The rust will continue
under the topcoating.
Trooper
- Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2008 7:44 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Hey guys, I have both the front and rear window channels with surface rust and
some flaking on my 70 chevelle. There seems to be no signs of major rust holes
or other major damages from the rust. I was planning on either using that POR-15
kit rust solution or to just replace both channels for new ones. Which one would
be a better choice with less complications?
For the POR-15, is it true that it states about fixing, stopping and curing
rust? This idea seems good because it says that the POR-15 can just be added on
top of the rusted surface and that's it and it will protect it. Has anyone
used this and can say it works?
As for just replacing window channels for new ones, is this whole process a big
hassle? thanks everyone
-Eddie
-- Be Yourself @ mail.com!
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Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
You will not find a good body man that would use any of those types of products and paint body color over them This is one that won't!!! Tried it in my early days, learned that the only way to do it is to do it right once and be done with it!! Josh Campbell The Body Shop (606) 265-5301 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it) 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) 87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right stuff) 71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on) --- On Mon, 12/8/08, Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Monday, December 8, 2008, 5:36 PM Don't know how much body work you've done John but rust catalyzers like Corroseal are voodoo. I guarantee you will be redoing it in less than a year. The only way to treat rust is to remove it. . Trooper - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 10:23 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... That's why you need something that catalyzes the rust, like Corroseal. Rust inhibitors will do nothing but make things worse. The rust will continue under the topcoating.
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpamp; icid=aolcom40vanityamp;ncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Can't speak for the POR15 kit.. but IMHO this problem area there is no Quick Fix. you said the rust has not eaten through the channel and it's flaking ? I would remove the glass tape off the rest of the cowl /deck and get a spot blaster from harbor fright or Eastwood. and clean the area down to bare metal. Only then can you determine a replacement of repair. I have welded patches in small areas in the cowl windshield channel and side post B4 If in fact there is NO rust through.. Then use DTM epoxy primers and paint. if there is small holes cut out and weld in new patches. I have used POR on cast parts, suspension parts and frames but never on a exposed body panel YMMV Wayne From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 14:03:01 +0200Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good!HarlanIn a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly.Tom RightlerMCC Newsletter Editor**Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010) _ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Eddie, Are the windows out? If not they need to come out. What you see now will be the tip of the iceberg. If your looking directly at the channels with the windows out now, then blast. Epoxy prime if all looks good. If you blow through with the blaster remove and replace. Rust inhibitors will do nothing but make things worse. The rust will continue under the topcoating. Trooper - Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2008 7:44 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Hey guys, I have both the front and rear window channels with surface rust and some flaking on my 70 chevelle. There seems to be no signs of major rust holes or other major damages from the rust. I was planning on either using that POR-15 kit rust solution or to just replace both channels for new ones. Which one would be a better choice with less complications? For the POR-15, is it true that it states about fixing, stopping and curing rust? This idea seems good because it says that the POR-15 can just be added on top of the rusted surface and that's it and it will protect it. Has anyone used this and can say it works? As for just replacing window channels for new ones, is this whole process a big hassle? thanks everyone -Eddie -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion
I am having a similar problem. I bought a combination tach/instrument gauge from OPG. I am also installing the Pqinless Wiring system on my 69 Chevelle. The issue I am having is that OPG and Painless wiring cannot tell me which lead, such as pos, neg and sensor goes to which portion on the back of the gauge. OPG stated no one has ever asked this question before of them. If anyone out there is able to assist, it would be greatly appreciated. I have a digital picture of the back of the gauge to anyone who might be able to help me. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sunday, December 7, 2008 18:11 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], chevelle-list@chevelles.net Dan... Did you receive the pictures you need? I have a '70 SS with gauges and can help. Email or call. Jerry Wells [EMAIL PROTECTED] 641.430.7510 -Original Message- From: Dan Solomon To: Chevelle List Sent: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 8:08 pm Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion I am preparing to convert my 70 to a tach cluster with gauges. I have a new forward lamp harness and would like to add the two wires for the amp gauge instead of replacing it. They are a black wire and a white/black wire that terminate at the horn relay and the junction block by the battery. Each has a fusible link. Does anyone have a 70 with gauges that could take pictures of the harness in these areas so I can replicate them on mine? Thanks in advance. Dan Solomon It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
That's why you need something that catalyzes the rust, like Corroseal. Rust inhibitors will do nothing but make things worse. The rust will continue under the topcoating.
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Don't know how much body work you've done John but rust catalyzers like Corroseal are voodoo. I guarantee you will be redoing it in less than a year. The only way to treat rust is to remove it. You will not find a good body man that would use any of those types of products and paint body color over them. Trooper - Original Message - From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 10:23 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... That's why you need something that catalyzes the rust, like Corroseal. Rust inhibitors will do nothing but make things worse. The rust will continue under the topcoating.
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
I tried Corroseal on the trunk pans of my '70 but truth be told I haven't had any money to put into that car in a while and I have yet to see whether or not it holds up. Thanks, John Quoting Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Don't know how much body work you've done John but rust catalyzers like Corroseal are voodoo. I guarantee you will be redoing it in less than a year. The only way to treat rust is to remove it. You will not find a good body man that would use any of those types of products and paint body color over them. Trooper
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Wow thanks guys,changing my mind about the por-15 now,her that Dan S.Charlie here from the other topic,bench seat and gas tank stuff. - Original Message - From: Johann Grobler To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... I tried a similar product and it lasted for less than a year! I've got to re-do the rust areas!! And re-spray the Malibu. Lesson: DO IT RIGHT FIRST TIME RIGHT! Johann - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... i would agree 100% with Tom, i am waiting to hear what happens to the projects that have been completed using this stuff- i'll bet its not good! Harlan In a message dated 12/7/2008 8:00:30 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor ** Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion
I have everything drivers side of the firewall but I am either going to have to buy another forward lamp harness or add the wires to enable the amp gauge. I have a 72 harness that has some fusible links in it that I could splice in. Just want it to look correct. Thanks, Dan Dan Solomon It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ -Original Message- From: John Nasta [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2008 00:51:19 To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion You will also need the printed circuit. Quoting Dan Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I am preparing to convert my 70 to a tach cluster with gauges. I have a new forward lamp harness and would like to add the two wires for the amp gauge instead of replacing it. They are a black wire and a white/black wire that terminate at the horn relay and the junction block by the battery. Each has a fusible link. Does anyone have a 70 with gauges that could take pictures of the harness in these areas so I can replicate them on mine? Thanks in advance. Dan Solomon It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion
Dan... Did you receive the pictures you need? I have a '70 SS with gauges and can help. Email or call. Jerry Wells [EMAIL PROTECTED] 641.430.7510 -Original Message- From: Dan Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sat, 6 Dec 2008 8:08 pm Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion I am preparing to convert my 70 to a tach cluster with gauges. I have a new forward lamp harness and would like to add the two wires for the amp gauge instead of replacing it. They are a black wire and a white/black wire that terminate at the horn relay and the junction block by the battery. Each has a fusible link. Does anyone have a 70 with gauges that could take pictures of the harness in these areas so I can replicate them on mine? Thanks in advance. Dan Solomon It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
That POR15 stuff belongs in one placethe trash can. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. That doesn't make the problem go away. The only way to eliminate rust is to cut it out and replace it with new metal or sandblast it off. Putting some kind of coating over only prolongs what NEEDS to be done to fix it correctly. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor - Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2008 8:44 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Hey guys, I have both the front and rear window channels with surface rust and some flaking on my 70 chevelle. There seems to be no signs of major rust holes or other major damages from the rust. I was planning on either using that POR-15 kit rust solution or to just replace both channels for new ones. Which one would be a better choice with less complications? For the POR-15, is it true that it states about fixing, stopping and curing rust? This idea seems good because it says that the POR-15 can just be added on top of the rusted surface and that's it and it will protect it. Has anyone used this and can say it works? As for just replacing window channels for new ones, is this whole process a big hassle? thanks everyone -Eddie -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.9.15/1834 - Release Date: 12/6/2008 4:55 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Not sure what you mean by window channels but POR-15 is not for use on metal you plan to paint. Even when coating frame and suspension components, it is best to remove as much rust as possible. Its definitely not a cure all for rust. The best thing is to remove rust. Dan It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry.http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2008 09:44:43 +0800 Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Hey guys, I have both the front and rear window channels with surface rust and some flaking on my 70 chevelle. There seems to be no signs of major rust holes or other major damages from the rust. I was planning on either using that POR-15 kit rust solution or to just replace both channels for new ones. Which one would be a better choice with less complications? For the POR-15, is it true that it states about fixing, stopping and curing rust? This idea seems good because it says that the POR-15 can just be added on top of the rusted surface and that's it and it will protect it. Has anyone used this and can say it works? As for just replacing window channels for new ones, is this whole process a big hassle? thanks everyone -Eddie -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels...
Take them out, sandblast rust as best as you can, then apply rust preventer but if rust is too severe, you are wasting allot of time. New, quality replacements would be best for the long-term. Steve 1968 Chevelle SS396 - Original Message - From: Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2008 7:44 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP..Rust front and rear window channels... Hey guys, I have both the front and rear window channels with surface rust and some flaking on my 70 chevelle. There seems to be no signs of major rust holes or other major damages from the rust. I was planning on either using that POR-15 kit rust solution or to just replace both channels for new ones. Which one would be a better choice with less complications? For the POR-15, is it true that it states about fixing, stopping and curing rust? This idea seems good because it says that the POR-15 can just be added on top of the rusted surface and that's it and it will protect it. Has anyone used this and can say it works? As for just replacing window channels for new ones, is this whole process a big hassle? thanks everyone -Eddie -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with Conversion
You will also need the printed circuit. Quoting Dan Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I am preparing to convert my 70 to a tach cluster with gauges. I have a new forward lamp harness and would like to add the two wires for the amp gauge instead of replacing it. They are a black wire and a white/black wire that terminate at the horn relay and the junction block by the battery. Each has a fusible link. Does anyone have a 70 with gauges that could take pictures of the harness in these areas so I can replicate them on mine? Thanks in advance. Dan Solomon It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry. http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/
Re: [Chevelle-list] help needed with replacement HEI coil
when you changed the coil did you make sure the ground strap was left in. - Original Message - From: J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 3:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help needed with replacement HEI coil Thanks guys- I got the right part but believe it or not, it wasn't the coil... the ignition wire in the harness had made its way down by the header and melted.. I swapped the coil anyway regardless, because knowing its age and NOT knowing its origin, I'm sure it was one of the next items on the upgrade list! Regards, Jim '66 Malibu http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm --- Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not positive, but I thought that all HEI caps were the same, and any coil made to fit the cap will work. I've used Delco and other manufacturer caps, and I never even thought about fit. I just bought the HEI cap. If the car is pretty much stock, the GM coil is fine. You don't need to pay more for a hotter spark if your old spark was good enough. Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] On May 26, 2008, at 6:48 PM, J. Brady wrote: Hi all, Well, for the past 5 years I've been enjoying my 327 which has been running flawlessly off of a Delco Remy distributor with HEI. However, it picked today of all times to quit (now currently stranded at my sister's place). The problem is, I don't know what model distributor and cap it is, and am wondering if there is a universal replacement from an auto parts store I can get ASAP. The distributor is a Delco Remy, and was in a 283 at the time that I got it (around 2001-2002). I have never had to change the coil out of the cap, and actually dropped that distributor right into the 327 I have in the car now w/no issues whatsoever. It's been 100% all the way. Looking at the cap tonight (just before the sun went down), I found the #9598 on the cap, and the coil is 3.5 x 3.5 in the top. The distributor cap is tan in color with the top being black. Wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of what HEI coil I need from the parts store in the AM, going off of what I've mentioned here. Thanks in advance for any help! Jim B. '66 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-list] help needed with replacement HEI coil
There was a ground strap on the coil that had a small round clip on it, and yep I actually put it under one of the mounting bolt heads. That's how the prior one was when I removed it. Jim '66 Malibu --- vincent dilascio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: when you changed the coil did you make sure the ground strap was left in. - Original Message - From: J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 3:46 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help needed with replacement HEI coil Thanks guys- I got the right part but believe it or not, it wasn't the coil... the ignition wire in the harness had made its way down by the header and melted.. I swapped the coil anyway regardless, because knowing its age and NOT knowing its origin, I'm sure it was one of the next items on the upgrade list! Regards, Jim '66 Malibu http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm --- Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not positive, but I thought that all HEI caps were the same, and any coil made to fit the cap will work. I've used Delco and other manufacturer caps, and I never even thought about fit. I just bought the HEI cap. If the car is pretty much stock, the GM coil is fine. You don't need to pay more for a hotter spark if your old spark was good enough. Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] On May 26, 2008, at 6:48 PM, J. Brady wrote: Hi all, Well, for the past 5 years I've been enjoying my 327 which has been running flawlessly off of a Delco Remy distributor with HEI. However, it picked today of all times to quit (now currently stranded at my sister's place). The problem is, I don't know what model distributor and cap it is, and am wondering if there is a universal replacement from an auto parts store I can get ASAP. The distributor is a Delco Remy, and was in a 283 at the time that I got it (around 2001-2002). I have never had to change the coil out of the cap, and actually dropped that distributor right into the 327 I have in the car now w/no issues whatsoever. It's been 100% all the way. Looking at the cap tonight (just before the sun went down), I found the #9598 on the cap, and the coil is 3.5 x 3.5 in the top. The distributor cap is tan in color with the top being black. Wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of what HEI coil I need from the parts store in the AM, going off of what I've mentioned here. Thanks in advance for any help! Jim B. '66 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-list] help needed with replacement HEI coil
Thanks guys- I got the right part but believe it or not, it wasn't the coil... the ignition wire in the harness had made its way down by the header and melted.. I swapped the coil anyway regardless, because knowing its age and NOT knowing its origin, I'm sure it was one of the next items on the upgrade list! Regards, Jim '66 Malibu http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jbiii/my66.htm --- Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not positive, but I thought that all HEI caps were the same, and any coil made to fit the cap will work. I've used Delco and other manufacturer caps, and I never even thought about fit. I just bought the HEI cap. If the car is pretty much stock, the GM coil is fine. You don't need to pay more for a hotter spark if your old spark was good enough. Brad Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] On May 26, 2008, at 6:48 PM, J. Brady wrote: Hi all, Well, for the past 5 years I've been enjoying my 327 which has been running flawlessly off of a Delco Remy distributor with HEI. However, it picked today of all times to quit (now currently stranded at my sister's place). The problem is, I don't know what model distributor and cap it is, and am wondering if there is a universal replacement from an auto parts store I can get ASAP. The distributor is a Delco Remy, and was in a 283 at the time that I got it (around 2001-2002). I have never had to change the coil out of the cap, and actually dropped that distributor right into the 327 I have in the car now w/no issues whatsoever. It's been 100% all the way. Looking at the cap tonight (just before the sun went down), I found the #9598 on the cap, and the coil is 3.5 x 3.5 in the top. The distributor cap is tan in color with the top being black. Wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of what HEI coil I need from the parts store in the AM, going off of what I've mentioned here. Thanks in advance for any help! Jim B. '66 Malibu
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
The por. valve has a plunger in it so say when you blow a wheel cyl. or lose fluid at a fast rate the por. valve plunger moves and cuts the fluid off either to the front or rear so that you will have some brakes to stop. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike, If your talking about a 69, the thing your describing is the distribution block (bolted to the inside of the frame behind the drivers side front tire) It only distributes the brake fluid to the wheel cylinders and has the brake idiot light connection. It is not the prop valve. The prop valve on a 69 and 70 is attached right next to the master and has only 1 inlet and 1 outlet. With that said they changed this is 71 and 72. On these Chevelles the distribution block and the prop valve are one in the same and bolted in the same position as the distribution block in 69 - 70. Instead of being a small box like piece as in 69 - 70 it is a larger piece with a more complicated shape. Sure wish we could post pics. It's easy to see the difference with pictures. Trooper - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
The rubber boot/pin is on the back of the prop. valve in 69 and 70. trooper - Original Message - From: John To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 12:45 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Factory valve for 69 had black rubber cover over pin. It was on the front part of valve. Have to either hold in or keep pulled out. Can't remember right off but think you hold it out for 69. Either way that is about only way rear will bleed. Been there! - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 9:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino -- Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike, this valve is also called a 'Combination Valve' because it not only proportions front and rear pressure but also adds safety to the brake system. It does two jobs. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
If it's on a 69 he's describing the distribution block. Both the distribution block in 69 and 70 and the prop valve 71 - 72 have 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
What's The Problem? Distribution Block Proportion Valve Combination Valve They all have the safety valve that closed off the defective side of the brake system to prevent all fluid loss and complete loss of brakes. The valve has to be returned to natural so that fluid can flow to both front and rear brakes. Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes If it's on a 69 he's describing the distribution block. Both the distribution block in 69 and 70 and the prop valve 71 - 72 have 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
On 4/21/07, Leo John Costigan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What's The Problem? Distribution Block Proportion Valve Combination Valve They all have the safety valve that closed off the defective side of the brake system to prevent all fluid loss and complete loss of brakes. The valve has to be returned to natural so that fluid can flow to both front and rear brakes. Leo - Original Message - *From:* Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:46 AM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes If it's on a 69 he's describing the distribution block. Both the distribution block in 69 and 70 and the prop valve 71 - 72 have 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Trooper - Original Message - *From:* Leo John Costigan [EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:40 AM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) Leo - Original Message - *From:* Trooper [EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - *From:* Leo John Costigan [EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - *From:* Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Sent:* Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM *Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com http://www.prostreetcar.com/ TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/ Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com http://www.indianachevelles.com/) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
I use a vacuum pump. They're great and it's a one man operation. Check it out here. Unfortunately, I paid full price. http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7835-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed/dp/B0007VT4RC - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
A mini vac or power bleeder can make the job faster/easier. I usually bench bleed the MC and use the pump/bleed method with 2 folks...a new empty line can take quite a while to get fluid through it. A couple cars I have owned would gravity bleed pretty well (70 Chevelle/79 malibu) I would fill the MC and crack the bleeders slightly on the line I replaced. Sometimes it takes a while...so you might need a snickers :-) Walt http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 5:50 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I use a vacuum pump. They're great and it's a one man operation. Check it out here. Unfortunately, I paid full price. http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7835-Vacuum-Brake-Bleed/dp/B0007VT4RC - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, *Michael Pell* [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
This sounds like a similar situation I had with my slave cylinder for my clutch on my C-20. I had to have help but it worked. 1 open bleeder, 2 have someone push the brake pedal down and hold it, 3 close bleeder, 4 let the brake pedal up after it is closed. Repeat as many times as needed. Eventually I finally got all the air out and then the last couple of times I bled it normally by pumping it up. That finally worked. Good luck, My $.02 - Original Message From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 10:04:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Factory valve for 69 had black rubber cover over pin. It was on the front part of valve. Have to either hold in or keep pulled out. Can't remember right off but think you hold it out for 69. Either way that is about only way rear will bleed. Been there! - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 9:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the brake light is on the por, vale is off center. - Original Message - From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ChevelleList chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to flow through the lines. I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is working. I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the bleeder to the cup . Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? Thanks, Mike -- -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
In a message dated 4/20/2007 10:05:55 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. i have seen the brake hoses collapsing on themselves internally= could this be your problem? Harlan ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Re: [Chevelle-list] help engine casting number
Mortec.com is primarily casting numbers with a couple of examples of engine dates and suffixes tossed in. both of these appear to be engine stampings - one engine assembly and one partial VIN. The 11J in the partial VIN is for a 71 Chevrolet and Janesville, WI where full size Chevys were built. V0615 would be Flint, MI., June 15. Suffix of 000 doesn't make any sense however. Dale McIntosh http://www.chevellecd.com 1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92 http://www.chevellecd.com _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:15 AM To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help engine casting number can any one tell me what this engine is? i could not find it on the mortec site 11J216601 V0615000 thanks! Harlan
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
I had a deal with a hood from CARS, i picked the hood up at a swap meet 5 hours away, went to fit the cowl induction piece in the hood and it didn't fit at least an 1/8 off all the way around, so I called them on it and they said that is something you are going to have to deal with with aftermarket parts, I said you have to be kidding found a number for goodmark and he told me that hood was recalled. I called the guy back at CARS and he said you have to be kidding, sent the hood back...they didn't have another hood so I called ground up and had them send me a hood which got damaged in shipping, sent that one back and got another also damaged in shipping, sent that one back and then found a place here in Minnesota that had the hood in stock, went down picked it up at Classic Auto parts here in MN. thought I would get my two cents in. Dale M From: Michael Pell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 20:13:50 -0500 Well, unfortunately the body man proceeded to fix the door without giving me the option, so by the time I found out, the door was fixed and the labor was charged. He did a good job, but I'd sure rather have not went that route... -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 John Nasta wrote: In my experience, Goodmark is very good about making sure that the customer is ultimately happy. It's a tough thing from the customer side because the options are to order one from a DII retailer and hope it is not the same thing, or to work with what you have. I personally never in 5 years had a single complaint about the fit or a customer asking to return any panel from DII. Can't say the same for Goodmark but I can say that they gave the customer replacement merchandise and were nice to deal with about it and everybody ended up happy. I also had a time when Goodmark shipped the correct panel but for the wrong side of the car. They told the customer that he could keep it for free and also sent him the right one. I think all in all they are good to deal with (despite the fact that their web site is horrible), although their prices are often high-ish. John Nasta Quoting Karl Groves [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Michael. I remember you posting a long story about the door issue several weeks ago. Hearing it again makes me think that the story begs the question - Why didn't you return it? I don't mean to be critical. I'm just wondering if there's more to the story, like Goodmark refusing to accept the return or something else. IMO, a bad product is one thing, but if they were also unwilling to honor a return that's even worse. Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlgroves.com http://www.karlgroves.com/ Grayscale Content Management System: http://www.grayscalecms.com http://www.grayscalecms.com/ _ From: Michael Pell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Be very leery of any repo parts. Even Goodmark. I bought a new door shell for my '69 from Goodmark, and the door was 1/2-3/4 too short!!! and the body man added 1/8 to the front edge, and shimmed the door out quite a bit to make it all fit. Very sad. I now have about $1,000 in a single door! arrrgh! I'll be drafting a letter with pics to Goodmark, and will post it on my website. -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Tom Rightler wrote: Do yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Be very leery of any repo parts. Even Goodmark. I bought a new door shell for my '69 from Goodmark, and the door was 1/2-3/4 too short!!! and the body man added 1/8 to the front edge, and shimmed the door out quite a bit to make it all fit. Very sad. I now have about $1,000 in a single door! arrrgh! I'll be drafting a letter with pics to Goodmark, and will post it on my website. -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Tom Rightler wrote: Do yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com http://www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor *From:* Thomas Ringlein mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* chevelle-list@chevelles.net mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net *Cc:* 'Thomas Ringlein' mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *Sent:* Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM *Subject:* [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read... I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick. Now - Are they feeding me a line? Do they really have the best stuff for substantial savings over the competition - or do they think I am a sucker? Why
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Year One catalog price is $214 and Goodmark is $230. Both places are within driving distance, which I plan to do because I am familiar with bent corners on hoods and trunk lids. I just spoke to YearOne and asked about quality. The salesrep was nice enough to tell me that they have shipped 12 and had 7 returned. Guess I will order from Goodmark. Good Luck on the next shipment. Bob Haggard From: Benjamin Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 07:10:24 EST To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Just had one come in for my 1971 after waiting 15 days for delivery. It arrived damaged and had to be returned; now waiting on a new one to arrive. Perhaps it is just my luck though, so hopefully others will chime in. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Haggard Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 5:44 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Has anyone had problems with Goodmark trunk lids for 70-72? I am about to order one. Bob Haggard From: Tom Rightler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 12:18:46 EST To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels HELP - Question about body panelsDo yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Another common mistake that a lot of people make is thinking that Goodmark makes everything they sell. They don't. In most cases they are selling the same part that you would have gotten elsewhere. Just my $.02. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't.
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
If it helps, I just returned a trunk lid to Goodmark that came in bent. Had to file a claim with the shipper and Goodmark is shipping another out. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Haggard Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 2:14 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Year One catalog price is $214 and Goodmark is $230. Both places are within driving distance, which I plan to do because I am familiar with bent corners on hoods and trunk lids. I just spoke to YearOne and asked about quality. The salesrep was nice enough to tell me that they have shipped 12 and had 7 returned. Guess I will order from Goodmark. Good Luck on the next shipment. Bob Haggard From: Benjamin Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 07:10:24 EST To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Just had one come in for my 1971 after waiting 15 days for delivery. It arrived damaged and had to be returned; now waiting on a new one to arrive. Perhaps it is just my luck though, so hopefully others will chime in. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Haggard Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 5:44 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Has anyone had problems with Goodmark trunk lids for 70-72? I am about to order one. Bob Haggard From: Tom Rightler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 12:18:46 EST To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels HELP - Question about body panelsDo yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Michael. I remember you posting a long story about the door issue several weeks ago. Hearing it again makes me think that the story begs the question - Why didn't you return it? I don't mean to be critical. I'm just wondering if there's more to the story, like Goodmark refusing to accept the return or something else. IMO, a bad product is one thing, but if they were also unwilling to honor a return that's even worse. Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlgroves.com http://www.karlgroves.com/ Grayscale Content Management System: http://www.grayscalecms.com http://www.grayscalecms.com/ _ From: Michael Pell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Be very leery of any repo parts. Even Goodmark. I bought a new door shell for my '69 from Goodmark, and the door was 1/2-3/4 too short!!! and the body man added 1/8 to the front edge, and shimmed the door out quite a bit to make it all fit. Very sad. I now have about $1,000 in a single door! arrrgh! I'll be drafting a letter with pics to Goodmark, and will post it on my website. -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Tom Rightler wrote: Do yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
In my experience, Goodmark is very good about making sure that the customer is ultimately happy. It's a tough thing from the customer side because the options are to order one from a DII retailer and hope it is not the same thing, or to work with what you have. I personally never in 5 years had a single complaint about the fit or a customer asking to return any panel from DII. Can't say the same for Goodmark but I can say that they gave the customer replacement merchandise and were nice to deal with about it and everybody ended up happy. I also had a time when Goodmark shipped the correct panel but for the wrong side of the car. They told the customer that he could keep it for free and also sent him the right one. I think all in all they are good to deal with (despite the fact that their web site is horrible), although their prices are often high-ish. John Nasta Quoting Karl Groves [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Michael. I remember you posting a long story about the door issue several weeks ago. Hearing it again makes me think that the story begs the question - Why didn't you return it? I don't mean to be critical. I'm just wondering if there's more to the story, like Goodmark refusing to accept the return or something else. IMO, a bad product is one thing, but if they were also unwilling to honor a return that's even worse. Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlgroves.com http://www.karlgroves.com/ Grayscale Content Management System: http://www.grayscalecms.com http://www.grayscalecms.com/ _ From: Michael Pell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Be very leery of any repo parts. Even Goodmark. I bought a new door shell for my '69 from Goodmark, and the door was 1/2-3/4 too short!!! and the body man added 1/8 to the front edge, and shimmed the door out quite a bit to make it all fit. Very sad. I now have about $1,000 in a single door! arrrgh! I'll be drafting a letter with pics to Goodmark, and will post it on my website. -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Tom Rightler wrote: Do yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Well, unfortunately the body man proceeded to fix the door without giving me the option, so by the time I found out, the door was fixed and the labor was charged. He did a good job, but I'd sure rather have not went that route... -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 John Nasta wrote: In my experience, Goodmark is very good about making sure that the customer is ultimately happy. It's a tough thing from the customer side because the options are to order one from a DII retailer and hope it is not the same thing, or to work with what you have. I personally never in 5 years had a single complaint about the fit or a customer asking to return any panel from DII. Can't say the same for Goodmark but I can say that they gave the customer replacement merchandise and were nice to deal with about it and everybody ended up happy. I also had a time when Goodmark shipped the correct panel but for the wrong side of the car. They told the customer that he could keep it for free and also sent him the right one. I think all in all they are good to deal with (despite the fact that their web site is horrible), although their prices are often high-ish. John Nasta Quoting Karl Groves [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Michael. I remember you posting a long story about the door issue several weeks ago. Hearing it again makes me think that the story begs the question - Why didn't you return it? I don't mean to be critical. I'm just wondering if there's more to the story, like Goodmark refusing to accept the return or something else. IMO, a bad product is one thing, but if they were also unwilling to honor a return that's even worse. Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlgroves.com http://www.karlgroves.com/ Grayscale Content Management System: http://www.grayscalecms.com http://www.grayscalecms.com/ _ From: Michael Pell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 3:06 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Be very leery of any repo parts. Even Goodmark. I bought a new door shell for my '69 from Goodmark, and the door was 1/2-3/4 too short!!! and the body man added 1/8 to the front edge, and shimmed the door out quite a bit to make it all fit. Very sad. I now have about $1,000 in a single door! arrrgh! I'll be drafting a letter with pics to Goodmark, and will post it on my website. -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Tom Rightler wrote: Do yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
HELP - Question about body panelsTJ, I can't comment on parts for your particular model, but Dynacorn is not the only manufacturer of body parts. Goodmark makes some stuff and buys some others. Depends on the make and model. If you can find usable OE fenders, use them. Aftermarket never fits like OE. I'm doing a 66 Chevelle right now that was a real rust bucket. It got full floor pans, trunk pans, rear panel, full quarters, window to trunk fill panel, door skins,trunk lid, maybe fenders too. Some of the parts fit well but most required a bunch of massaging to work. The reason I said maybe on the fenders is they fit so bad. I have some rust and dings in the OE fenders but that may be the best I can find. Many of the parts had either or options, US or foreign. DLL or Goodmark. The floor pans were the foreign because they covered more area and fit better than the US pan. I know I'm not directly answering your question, but in most cases, there are choices. Always choose OE if you can. Merry Christmas Mike Holleman - Original Message - From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick. Now - Are they feeding me a line? Do they really have the best stuff for substantial savings over the competition - or do they think I am a sucker? Why does Ground-Up have two quality fenders for sale if there really is only one available worldwide? Who knows the real story on this? For the record - I would prefer a factory fender, but cannot find one that would not cost over $500 after it is fixed and on the car. OPG also has great prices on the hoods, and all other body parts. Are they the same parts others are selling for 25-30% higher? TJ Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle in Shambles (heading to body shop in 30 days) -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.27/602 - Release Date: 12/25/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
HELP - Question about body panelsDo yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick. Now - Are they feeding me a line? Do they really have the best stuff for substantial savings over the competition - or do they think I am a sucker? Why does Ground-Up have two quality fenders for sale if there really is only one available worldwide? Who knows the real story on this? For the record - I would prefer a factory fender, but cannot find one that would not cost over $500 after it is fixed and on the car. OPG also has great prices on the hoods, and all other body parts. Are they the same parts others are selling for 25-30% higher? TJ Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle in Shambles (heading to body shop in 30 days) No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.27/602 - Release Date: 12/25/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Has anyone had problems with Goodmark trunk lids for 70-72? I am about to order one. Bob Haggard From: Tom Rightler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 12:18:46 EST To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels HELP - Question about body panelsDo yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick. Now - Are they feeding me a line? Do they really have the best stuff for substantial savings over the competition - or do they think I am a sucker? Why does Ground-Up have two quality fenders for sale if there really is only one available worldwide? Who knows the real story on this? For the record - I would prefer a factory fender, but cannot find one that would not cost over $500 after it is fixed and on the car. OPG also has great prices on the hoods, and all other body parts. Are they the same parts others are selling for 25-30% higher? TJ Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle in Shambles (heading to body shop in 30 days) No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.27/602 - Release Date: 12/25/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels
Just had one come in for my 1971 after waiting 15 days for delivery. It arrived damaged and had to be returned; now waiting on a new one to arrive. Perhaps it is just my luck though, so hopefully others will chime in. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Haggard Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 5:44 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Has anyone had problems with Goodmark trunk lids for 70-72? I am about to order one. Bob Haggard From: Tom Rightler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/12/25 Mon PM 12:18:46 EST To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels HELP - Question about body panelsDo yourself a favor and go to www.goodmarkindustries.com and find a local dealer. There are only 2 companies that actually make the fenders, Goodmark and Golden Leigion. Dynacorn is nothing more than a wholesaler for Golden Legion parts. The Goodmark ones are the better fitting fenders. A common mistake that alot of people make is that thinking all these catalog companies (Year One, OPG, ets.) make the sheetemtal parts, they don't. They only have them for retail sale from the wholesalers. Tom Rightler MCC Newsletter Editor From: Thomas Ringlein To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: 'Thomas Ringlein' Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 1:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] HELP - Question about body panels Folks - I am asking for some expertise on this issue - sorry it is long, but it is a good read. I noticed that in Ground-Up Restorations, there are 2 different quality levels of new repop fenders for the 1971-1972 Chevelles. One, part # RF-71L, is listed at $260, and is not listed as a GM Restoration Part. Another, part # RF-71GML, is listed at $319, and is supposedly newly retooled, and offer a more definitive fit, with sharper edges. It is listed as the GM Restoration Part for our cars. Now OPG has similar fenders - but only one part # for a left front fender - PZ00611, listed at $269 (and on sale right now for $220). I also took the time to notice that their full quarters for the same car using original GM tooling, and listed as the finest quality available, and the only ones licensed by GM - for the low-low price of only $400. That is about $200 less then everyone else. As a skeptic, I placed a call and talked to Jason on the other line. This is what he said. Question: Your competitors have two repop fenders available, one that is standard quality, and one that is newly retooled and the only GM Restoration Part, with better body lines. Which are your $260 fenders - the good ones, or the bad ones. Who manufactures your fenders? Answer: They are both the same fenders. There is only one manufacturer in the world, and that is Dynacorn. The panels are licensed by GM for restoration purposes, stamped overseas, and distributed by Goodmark and Cars Inc., among others. The tooling is wildly expensive, and there is only one set of tooling for these fenders in the world. If someone else is advertising two qualities of fenders, they are selling the same fender piece for two prices. Beware of these guys. Question: Okay, assuming that is true, you are stating that your fenders are the GM licensed fenders, the best available, made with the best tooling in the industry, and manufactured by Dynacorn and shipped directly to your warehouse in Huntington Beach, Ca? Answer: Yes - that is why we have the best price around for that fender and are able to offer it to you for great savings. Question: I also noticed a similar situation with your full quarters for the same car. You are supposedly selling the best available GM Restoration quarters for $200 less then the competition. What gives? Answer: Same issue. Only one set of tooling, and Dynacorn has it. These are the only GM Restoration quarters (the same being offered by Goodmark), and we offer a substantial savings because they are shipped directly to San Diego and we truck them up to LA. That savings goes straight to you. Oh - and they are on sale too right now. Get your order in quick. Now - Are they feeding me a line? Do they really have the best stuff for substantial savings over the competition - or do they think I am a sucker? Why does Ground-Up have two quality fenders for sale if there really is only one available worldwide? Who knows the real story on this? For the record - I would prefer a factory fender, but cannot find one that would not cost over $500 after it is fixed and on the car. OPG also has great prices on the hoods, and all other body parts. Are they the same parts others are selling for 25-30% higher? TJ Ringlein Clovis, CA 1972 Chevelle in Shambles (heading to body shop in 30 days
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with springs
I call most of the time but it was the weekend. If I take the tome to fill out the request form I am serious.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with springs
At 12:41 PM 12/15/2006, you wrote: I call most of the time but it was the weekend. If I take the tome to fill out the request form I am serious. Yep, most don't answer email. I ask if they don't why the Hell do they have an email form! They should just state (Call only).
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with springs
Truer words were never spoken!!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with springs
Forget about it and bag it!!! That's what I did. I can be higher than stock one moment, and on the ground the next.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with springs
Emailing most companies for tech info is mainly a waste of time. I always call them on the phone. That way,they know you're serious. Clint Hooper HH Custom,owner 1969 El Camino protourer http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/ You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I give up I just ordered a set of Hotchkiss 1 drop springs if they don't do what I want I'll just sell them and try something else. I sent an email to Coil Spring Specialities but never got a reply, seems to be the way a lot of companies do business these days.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help contribute to search engine
The engine says it is not open to volunteers. I have only volunterred, not set up an engine, so I can't tell you what you need to update... Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Groves Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:59 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help contribute to search engine I've created a new Google Co-op search engine so people can share their favorite sites. The URL is: http://www.google.com/coop/cse?cx=002565996004319696999%3Ankeb_t3std4 (a shorter version: http://smallerurl.com/?id=qr922bz ) Anyone can go there and volunteer to add new sites. I'm hoping it can be a place to give people good information. Please, only sites relevant to American cars, parts, services, and information - preferably specializing in Pre-1974 cars. Thanks! Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlcore.com Will Work For Parts: http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help contribute to search engine
Sorry 'bout that. I changed the settings so people can volunteer. Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlgroves.com Grayscale Content Management System: http://www.grayscalecms.com Independent Musician's Handbook: http://www.indiebook.com -Original Message- From: Brad Waller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 7:05 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Help contribute to search engine The engine says it is not open to volunteers. I have only volunterred, not set up an engine, so I can't tell you what you need to update... Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Groves Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:59 AM To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help contribute to search engine I've created a new Google Co-op search engine so people can share their favorite sites. The URL is: http://www.google.com/coop/cse?cx=002565996004319696999%3Ankeb_t3std4 (a shorter version: http://smallerurl.com/?id=qr922bz ) Anyone can go there and volunteer to add new sites. I'm hoping it can be a place to give people good information. Please, only sites relevant to American cars, parts, services, and information - preferably specializing in Pre-1974 cars. Thanks! Karl Groves Master Certified CIW http://www.karlcore.com Will Work For Parts: http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
flow tech 31100.
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 3:50
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding
headers
Can you tell us what brand and model number?
-Original
Message- From: glen real <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: Oct 17,
2006 3:07 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], The
Chevelle Mailing List <CHEVELLE-LIST@CHEVELLES.NET>Subject: Re:
[Chevelle-list] help finding headers <ZZZ!--[IF gte mso 9]>
<ZZZ![ENDIF]--><ZZZ!--[IF gte mso 9]>
0
DocumentEmail
<ZZZ![ENDIF]-->
<ZZZ!--[IF gte mso 9]>
<ZZZ![ENDIF]--><ZZZ!--[IF gte mso 9]>
<ZZZ![ENDIF]-->
that is not the case. the headers that I bought
a few years ago needed to be damaged to be installed
- Original Message -
From:
Jim
H. Thompson
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 8:30
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help
finding headers
They
are the same headers for all small blocks. No need to
worry.
<ZZZ![ENDIF]>
-Original
Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of glen realSent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39
PMTo: chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: [Chevelle-list] help finding
headers
<ZZZ![ENDIF]>
hi
gang
I
have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers
that will fit without hitting the steering shaft
thanks for the
help
glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
do have themodel number - Original Message - From: Mumper, Douglas To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 2:27 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers I have a 1966 Chevelle with 400 SBC I bought hooker super comps big tube headers, work good do not hit steering shaft. They are about $560.00 at summit, bought mine on eBay for a lot less. They are the coated headers. Doug 66 Chevelle From: glen real [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39 PMTo: chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers hi gang I have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers that will fit without hitting the steering shaft thanks for the help glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
I have a 1966 Chevelle with 400 SBC I bought hooker super comps big tube headers, work good do not hit steering shaft. They are about $560.00 at summit, bought mine on eBay for a lot less. They are the coated headers. Doug 66 Chevelle From: glen real [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers hi gang I have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers that will fit without hitting the steering shaft thanks for the help glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
that is not the case. the headers that I bought a few years ago needed to be damaged to be installed - Original Message - From: Jim H. Thompson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 8:30 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers They are the same headers for all small blocks. No need to worry. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of glen realSent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39 PMTo: chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers hi gang I have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers that will fit without hitting the steering shaft thanks for the help glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
Can you tell us what brand and model number? -Original Message- From: glen real <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Sent: Oct 17, 2006 3:07 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], The Chevelle Mailing List <CHEVELLE-LIST@CHEVELLES.NET>Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers <ZZZ!--[IF 9] mso gte> <ZZZ![ENDIF]--><ZZZ!--[IF 9] mso gte> 0 DocumentEmail <ZZZ![ENDIF]--> <ZZZ!--[IF 9] mso gte> <ZZZ![ENDIF]--><ZZZ!--[IF 9] mso gte> <ZZZ![ENDIF]--> that is not the case. the headers that I bought a few years ago needed to be damaged to be installed - Original Message - From: Jim H. Thompson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 8:30 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers They are the same headers for all small blocks. No need to worry. <ZZZ![ENDIF]> -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of glen realSent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39 PMTo: chevelle-list@chevelles.netSubject: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers <ZZZ![ENDIF]> hi gang I have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers that will fit without hitting the steering shaft thanks for the help glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers
They are the same headers for all small blocks. No need to worry. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of glen real Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:39 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help finding headers hi gang I have a 67 chevelle that has a 400sbc. I am looking for exhaust headers that will fit without hitting the steering shaft thanks for the help glen
Re: [Chevelle-list] help with distributors?
Looking at the MSD website, the 8365 is a replacement for a GM HEI and comes complete w/the coil inside the cap. The 8360 is a totally different distributor and does not come with a coil so an external coil would be needed such as the Blaster 2 or Blaster 3. Be aware that theyll require you to change the distributor ends of your wires or a new set of wires as the connections are different than stock unless youre coming from a HEI now. An ignition box (e.g., MSD 6AL) is NOT required on either distributor nor is a rev limiter. Aside from looking cool, Im not sold on the benefits of a 6A or 6AL ignition for everyday driving if your distributor and coil are up to snuff. The ignition box makes it easier to connect a rev limiter if youre looking to go racing. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 ChevelleReference CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 5:49 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help with distributors? Hi All I've been looking at distributors for two days now and am more confused than when I started..I'm trying to find the best one for my 396/400 hp..I was looking at a MSD 8365 and was told by a speed shop that I could use a 8360, but I read up on that one and said something about not having the coil included..and then a buddy of mine said I need an ignitionbox with a rev limiter..so I'm a little confused..sure hope this isn't too dumb of a question..thanks, tom purtzer
Re: [Chevelle-list] help with distributors?
My engine builder suggested a rev limiter, so I'm installing a 6AL. Cheap insurance if you have spent good money on your motor. If I ever miss a shift on my Tremec I know I won't over rev. -Matt At 04:40 PM 4/4/2006, Dale wrote: Looking at the MSD website, the 8365 is a replacement for a GM HEI and comes complete w/the coil inside the cap. The 8360 is a totally different distributor and does not come with a coil so an external coil would be needed such as the Blaster 2 or Blaster 3. Be aware that theyll require you to change the distributor ends of your wires or a new set of wires as the connections are different than stock unless youre coming from a HEI now. An ignition box (e.g., MSD 6AL) is NOT required on either distributor nor is a rev limiter. Aside from looking cool, Im not sold on the benefits of a 6A or 6AL ignition for everyday driving if your distributor and coil are up to snuff. The ignition box makes it easier to connect a rev limiter if youre looking to go racing. Dale McIntosh 67 El Camino 1967 Chevelle Reference CD http://www.chevellecd.com ACES #1709/TC Gold #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 5:49 PM To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help with distributors? Hi All I've been looking at distributors for two days now and am more confused than when I started..I'm trying to find the best one for my 396/400 hp..I was looking at a MSD 8365 and was told by a speed shop that I could use a 8360, but I read up on that one and said something about not having the coil included..and then a buddy of mine said I need an ignition box with a rev limiter..so I'm a little confused..sure hope this isn't too dumb of a question..thanks, tom purtzer
Re: [Chevelle-list] help
Anything is possible. I would question the throttle linkage. I put a newer 350 4bbl in place of a 283 2 bbl in a 67 Impala and had the same issue. The angles were all wrong with the throttle linkage to the newer carb. - Original Message - From: James Strunk To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 6:56 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] help Hi everyone,can anyone help me?,I purchased a used car recently,the pass.frt. parking light has never worked,and also the acc. pedal is quite close to the floor, resulting in only using part throttle under the hood,now here is where it gets weird,my local auto zone manager says that because of a bad ground,which is responsible for no parking light,the cars throttle has been acting as a ground,which meant the cable has been heating up,causing the cable to STRETCH resulting in the acc. pedal to sag to the floor? has ANYBODY ever heard of such a claim? please let me here from anybody No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/149 - Release Date: 10/25/2005 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/149 - Release Date: 10/25/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] help
I think your problem is when you said "Auto Zone." Sounds like a bunch of bull to me. The only way I could see the throttle and the parking light effecting each other would be the wires messed up under the dash. I would pull the lens off, clean the contacts, put in a new bulb, first. As far as the throttle, I would check the cable and connections.
Re: [Chevelle-list] help
Yshh!!! THAT's an "interesting" theory!!! Wow. What kind of car is it? Auto or manual transmission? The 1st gen Camaros with a scattershield are susceptible to the over zealous use of a "clutch fork clearance tool" (aka hammer). And the result is that the floorboard is clearanced too much just under the acc. pedal, which interferes with full travel. I had a customer with this issue. He thought I was an amazing mechanic once he got the car back. :-) -- When Satan is knocking at your door, simply say, "Jesus, could you get that for me?" http://www.christianet.com Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 James Strunk wrote: Hi everyone,can anyone help me?,I purchased a used car recently,the pass.frt. parking light has never worked,and also the acc. pedal is quite close to the floor, resulting in only using part throttle under the hood,now here is where it gets weird,my local auto zone manager says that because of a bad ground,which is responsible for no parking light,the cars throttle has been acting as a ground,which meant the cable has been heating up,causing the cable to STRETCH resulting in the acc. pedal to sag to the floor? has ANYBODY ever heard of such a claim? please let me here from anybody Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 10/24/2005 Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 10/24/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] help
this cat sounds retarded and should not be giving advice ,i would check the scoket were the bulb goes into the park lamp and start troubleshooting there with a good old test light (you also might want to check into a pos/neg test light so u can check both ) then go from there .as far as your throttle cable make sure the jacket or sleeve the cable slides through is not movin and is secure,then check brackets/and floor clearance as mentioned before,im even scared to as a auto zone representative to even look up a part lol
Re: [Chevelle-list] help
Sounds like you need to change the throttle cable to one for a four barrel. The two barrel cable is too short and when used makes pedal low to floor and won't open all the way. sounds like may need to check wires and clean sockets for parking lights. Hope this helps - Original Message - From: James Strunk To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 6:56 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] help Hi everyone,can anyone help me?,I purchased a used car recently,the pass.frt. parking light has never worked,and also the acc. pedal is quite close to the floor, resulting in only using part throttle under the hood,now here is where it gets weird,my local auto zone manager says that because of a bad ground,which is responsible for no parking light,the cars throttle has been acting as a ground,which meant the cable has been heating up,causing the cable to STRETCH resulting in the acc. pedal to sag to the floor? has ANYBODY ever heard of such a claim? please let me here from anybody
RE: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9 rear
Title: Message Thanks Herb. I will check with the parts store and see what they have, hopefully this weekend. -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Herb LumppSent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 9:04 AMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9" rear Hi John, I found a set of seal installers at (take your pick - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc). They're nothing more than a set of different size discs that attach to a steel handle. Pick the correct size disc, attach it to the handle, then tap the seal in place. If you haven't already installed your seals - When I got my Currie 9", the passenger side seal leaked. Currie sent me a new axle bearing and seal and suggested when I install the seal to put a light film of RTV on the outer edge of the seal. I did and it's been over a year with no leak. HTH. Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John UsherSent: Friday, October 14, 2005 12:48 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9" rear I am putting togethera new Moser 9" rear end for my 69SS. I know I need some kind of seal installer for the seals that go in the rear axle. I already screwed up one set of seals trying the large socket and hammer. I need a seal installer, but would like to know what one looks like so I make sure I get the right thing. Does anybody have any hints or recomendations on the best way to go about installing these? Thanks. john
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP ! '68 trunk jack ?
34 1/2 At 08:53 AM 10/20/2005, you wrote: Need the overall length of the mast or shaft for a '68 Chevelle. Have one for (I believe) a '70 Monte Carlo and it appears to be too long at 36 1/2 (apparently they came in different lengths). Trying to get the trunk detailed for a upcoming large indoor show in Chicago. Any help sorting this out would be mucho appreciated . Kent Lewis '68 Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP ! '68 trunk jack ?
Thanks Bill. :) Kent '68Malibu ZZ502/502 ACES #5102 - Original Message - From: Bill Lessenberry To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 7:44 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP ! '68 trunk jack ? 34 1/2"At 08:53 AM 10/20/2005, you wrote: Need the overall length of the "mast" or "shaft" for a '68 Chevelle. Have one for (I believe) a '70 Monte Carlo and it appears to be too long at 36 1/2" (apparently they came in different lengths). Trying to get the trunk detailed for a upcoming large indoor show in Chicago. Any help sorting this out would be mucho appreciated .Kent Lewis'68 Malibu ZZ502/502ACES #5102
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9 rear
I just tap mine in with a hammer and have not had any problems at the axles. I don't know of any installer tools, although I'm sure there are some out there. Mike -- When Satan is knocking at your door, simply say, "Jesus, could you get that for me?" http://www.christianet.com Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 John Usher wrote: Message I am putting togethera new Moser 9" rear end for my 69SS. I know I need some kind of seal installer for the seals that go in the rear axle. I already screwed up one set of seals trying the large socket and hammer. I need a seal installer, but would like to know what one looks like so I make sure I get the right thing. Does anybody have any hints or recomendations on the best way to go about installing these? Thanks. john Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.0/132 - Release Date: 10/13/2005 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.0/134 - Release Date: 10/14/2005
RE: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9 rear
Title: Message Hi John, I found a set of seal installers at (take your pick - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc). They're nothing more than a set of different size discs that attach to a steel handle. Pick the correct size disc, attach it to the handle, then tap the seal in place. If you haven't already installed your seals - When I got my Currie 9", the passenger side seal leaked. Currie sent me a new axle bearing and seal and suggested when I install the seal to put a light film of RTV on the outer edge of the seal. I did and it's been over a year with no leak. HTH. Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John UsherSent: Friday, October 14, 2005 12:48 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9" rear I am putting togethera new Moser 9" rear end for my 69SS. I know I need some kind of seal installer for the seals that go in the rear axle. I already screwed up one set of seals trying the large socket and hammer. I need a seal installer, but would like to know what one looks like so I make sure I get the right thing. Does anybody have any hints or recomendations on the best way to go about installing these? Thanks. john
RE: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9 rear
Title: Message John, You might also try putting the seal in the freezer for and hour or so to shrink it down for an easier fit. -Original Message- From: Herb Lumpp [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Oct 15, 2005 10:04 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List <CHEVELLE-LIST@CHEVELLES.NET>Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9" rear Hi John, I found a set of seal installers at (take your pick - Autozone, Pep Boys, etc). They're nothing more than a set of different size discs that attach to a steel handle. Pick the correct size disc, attach it to the handle, then tap the seal in place. If you haven't already installed your seals - When I got my Currie 9", the passenger side seal leaked. Currie sent me a new axle bearing and seal and suggested when I install the seal to put a light film of RTV on the outer edge of the seal. I did and it's been over a year with no leak. HTH. Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of John UsherSent: Friday, October 14, 2005 12:48 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Help with seals on 9" rear I am putting togethera new Moser 9" rear end for my 69SS. I know I need some kind of seal installer for the seals that go in the rear axle. I already screwed up one set of seals trying the large socket and hammer. I need a seal installer, but would like to know what one looks like so I make sure I get the right thing. Does anybody have any hints or recomendations on the best way to go about installing these? Thanks. john
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
Mike, So do you turn the drill forward or reverse to check the speedo? I presume forward... thomas From: mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:24:18 -0700 (PDT) Put the transmission end into a drill and spin it up. mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you, Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves when the transmission is moving and going to use a drill to see if the speedo meter works. Kelly -Original Message- From: Krister Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or new cable hooked to the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked to the speedo (have it hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable rotates Krister [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] cc: evelles.net Fax to: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. 06/06/2005 10:31 AM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly __ Discover Yahoo! Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
I would think, Mark, that one direction would make the speedometer increase as I have never see and mph in reverse reading. It was just a test. Also, since the speedometer cable, once detached, is removable from one end, you can perhaps clean it and verify it's not broken. I have seen the cable assy on ebay real cheap. I had heard that was the way shyster car dealers used to turn back the milage on a used car. It's was worth a look mike --- Mark Schwartz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mike, So do you turn the drill forward or reverse to check the speedo? I presume forward... thomas From: mike f [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:24:18 -0700 (PDT) Put the transmission end into a drill and spin it up. mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you, Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves when the transmission is moving and going to use a drill to see if the speedo meter works. Kelly -Original Message- From: Krister Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or new cable hooked to the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked to the speedo (have it hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable rotates Krister [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] cc: evelles.net Fax to: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. 06/06/2005 10:31 AM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly __ Discover Yahoo! Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html __ Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] help doggy elky
In a message dated 6/5/2005 4:18:07 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Nice Webpage Harlan ! Terry S. Hodges thanks Terry!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
to eliminate a bad cable or clock turn cable at trans end and make sure the cable is not broken or binding and if clock works then its at the trans. - Original Message - From: Mark Schwartz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 10:59 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Hi All, First off, thank you to everyone who has helped a newbie on my 69 yenko chevelle clone. first a recap of what I have. I have a 454 77 truck engine, with an M21 Muncie 4 speed. My speedo is not working. I replaced the plastic white gear and it worked for a minute or two and then stopped working. I had the car on jacks last week and took some pics of the trans, where the speedo cable goes and the piece (thing speedo gear goes on). I don't know if the list takes pics, so I will send them on demand. I could use some help getting my speedo to work. I'm pretty lost on whether I have to pull the trans or not. My buddy whose a non-chevy mechanic (8 hrs away), says that he was told that there could be the wrong tailshaft on the car. This could be causing the problem or stop the fixing of it. I have casting numbers on trans and tailshaft if that helps... So, sorry for the long winded post, but here are my questions. 1. Do I need to drop the trans to fix the speedo cable? 2. does the tailshaft have to be an EXACT casting # to work on the car? 3. Do I need to pull the trans and rebuild it to get this fixed. (The only 4 speed guy that comed highly recommend ONLY does full rebulds on the trans. Don't want to go that route unless absoultely necessary) 3. Help... Thomas aka (tomcat) San Jose, CA
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or new cable hooked to the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked to the speedo (have it hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable rotates Krister [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by:To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]cc: evelles.net Fax to: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. 06/06/2005 10:31 AM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
Thank you, Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves when the transmission is moving and going to use a drill to see if the speedo meter works. Kelly-Original Message-From: Krister Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.netCc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or new cable hooked to the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked to the speedo (have it hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable rotates Krister [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by:To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]cc: evelles.net Fax to: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. 06/06/2005 10:31 AM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed.
Put the transmission end into a drill and spin it up. mike --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thank you, Yes I am going to check if the inner cable moves when the transmission is moving and going to use a drill to see if the speedo meter works. Kelly -Original Message- From: Krister Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Cc: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 13:49:38 -0500 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. Easy way to check cable condition is with the old or new cable hooked to the trans, routed into the car correctly, unhooked to the speedo (have it hanging down so you can see or feel the end) - take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood and see if the inner cable rotates Krister [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net [EMAIL PROTECTED] cc: evelles.net Fax to: Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help: Trans/Speedo Help Needed. 06/06/2005 10:31 AM Please respond to The Chevelle Mailing List I have a 64 El Camino with a Muncie 4 speed, M 21. Just had it rebuilt at Cottsman. Was recommended to me. After getting the car back from rebuilt transmission, my speedo does not work. I replaced the cable, and still nothing. I see the old cable worked ok, once I removed it. With my cable it is a screw on cap at both ends, so not hard to replace. Just can not figure why the speedo does not work after having the transmission rebuilt. yes it did work before the transmission work. Will be talking to them today. So I too need help with the Transmission and Speedo cable too. Thank you All, Kelly __ Discover Yahoo! Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] help doggy elky
Nice Webpage Harlan ! Terry S. Hodges ACES 05982 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/06/05 Sun AM 01:17:16 EDT To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help doggy elky hey! i have a 72 elky with a pretty stock 350 in it, it has a 8004 weiand intake and a edelbrock 600 cfm carb, it has a TH400 trans. it seems real doggy off the line, it will not even spin the tires from a dead stop (14 radials), or i can't even get it to do a brake stand- i am wondering if a diffrent stall converter would help in the tranny, and what you would recommend ?? i also have headers for it (came with the car) but will it make a big diffrence?? (is it really worth the hassle to put them on?) thanks for the help! Harlan http://hometown.aol.com/harkem123/HarlanKemperAssociatesindex.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] help doggy elky
Nice Webpage Harlan ! Terry S. Hodges ACES 05982 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/06/05 Sun AM 01:17:16 EDT To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Subject: [Chevelle-list] help doggy elky hey! i have a 72 elky with a pretty stock 350 in it, it has a 8004 weiand intake and a edelbrock 600 cfm carb, it has a TH400 trans. it seems real doggy off the line, it will not even spin the tires from a dead stop (14 radials), or i can't even get it to do a brake stand- i am wondering if a diffrent stall converter would help in the tranny, and what you would recommend ?? i also have headers for it (came with the car) but will it make a big diffrence?? (is it really worth the hassle to put them on?) thanks for the help! Harlan http://hometown.aol.com/harkem123/HarlanKemperAssociatesindex.html
Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP: Searching a chevelle my father had
Thanks , I may try a private detective. I did call the NC DMV and am presently get the archived data on this car since it was registered in NC. Tommiecharlie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey I would love to know if you ever find it.How about the Police data.Know any officers?How about a private detective?I think they'll find it in 5 minutes. Charlie, NJ, 70 Malibu convertible - Original Message - From: Tommie Deese To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP: Searching a chevelle my father had I've tried carfax. They only source vehicles 1981 to present with VIN #'s 17 characters in length. The 69 chevelle SS has 13 characters for a VIN #. Thanks for your input. Tommie[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not sure if this will help but here goes. CARFAX? I believe you can look it up and it will tell you if the car exists at least?Walt- Original Message -From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Date: Friday, January 7, 2005 10:21 amSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] HELP: Searching a chevelle my father had Suggestion: Place an ad in one or more of the Chevy/Chevelle magazines, contact local clubs and maybe clubs in the states near - by. Best of luck... Do you Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! What will yours do?
Re: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
The gaskets dry out when not used, then the get wet again when you drive and will seal for a while again. Ciao André Hey all, I went out to the garage this morning where my '70 has been parked since mid-October. My TH350 has leaked so much trans fluid, that I noticed it because it's creeping out from under the car! At least 1.5-2quarts. I was under the car in October/November and didn't notice anything unusual then, maybe the odd drop or two.. The trans was rebuilt in the late 90s, and hasn't been touched since 2001 and worked great when I parked it. The car has not been turned over/started since October, either. I pushed it out of the garage once, and back in. During the summer, when it see periodic use, it doesn't leak. The TH400 in my El Camino did the same thing, although it would leak horrendously if it sat for just a week or more. But it didn't leak if I drove the car every few days. I chalked it up to an old tranny that needed a rebuild. That is not the case with this one. So what on earth causes a trans to leak from NOT being used? -Dave
Re: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
The gaskets dry out when not used, then the get wet again when you drive and will seal for a while again. Ciao André Hey all, I went out to the garage this morning where my '70 has been parked since mid-October. My TH350 has leaked so much trans fluid, that I noticed it because it's creeping out from under the car! At least 1.5-2quarts. I was under the car in October/November and didn't notice anything unusual then, maybe the odd drop or two.. The trans was rebuilt in the late 90s, and hasn't been touched since 2001 and worked great when I parked it. The car has not been turned over/started since October, either. I pushed it out of the garage once, and back in. During the summer, when it see periodic use, it doesn't leak. The TH400 in my El Camino did the same thing, although it would leak horrendously if it sat for just a week or more. But it didn't leak if I drove the car every few days. I chalked it up to an old tranny that needed a rebuild. That is not the case with this one. So what on earth causes a trans to leak from NOT being used? -Dave
Re: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
that´s happen with my 70 camaroget a TH350 too, and it´s happen the same thing, cuz my camaro stay in my garage for almost 20 year, and now i have to replace all the gaskets, from the engine and transmition, cuz the car runs great, but i always have to put more oil for a ride!! hehehehesee pics onhttp://www.geocities.com/bielinha83/Camaroi post an Burnout video too heheheheGiorgio- Mensagem Original -Data: Quarta-feira, 12 de Janeiro de 2005 07:40De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Para: [EMAIL PROTECTED], The Chevelle Mailing List Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Assunto: Re: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leakThe gaskets dry out when not used, then the get wet again when you drive and will seal for a while again. Ciao AndréHey all, I went out to the garage this morning where my '70 has been parked since mid-October. My TH350 has leaked so much trans fluid, that I noticed it because it's creeping out from under the car! At least 1.5-2quarts. I was under the car in October/November and didn't notice anything unusual then, maybe the odd drop or two.. The trans was rebuilt in the late 90s, and hasn't been touched since 2001 and worked great when I parked it. The car has not been turned over/started since October, either. I pushed it out of the garage once, and back in. During the summer, when it see periodic use, it doesn't leak. The TH400 in my El Camino did the same thing, although it would leak horrendously if it sat for just a week or more. But it didn't leak if I drove the car every few days. I chalked it up to an old tranny that needed a rebuild. That is not the case with this one. So what on earth causes a trans to leak from NOT being used? -Dave
Re: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
try checking the shifter shaft seal, they tend to do this-
RE: [Chevelle-list] help, odd transmission leak
Check the rear seal. I had one parked and the top part of the seal dried out from sitting. Eventually, capillary action allowed fluid to escape. Brian _ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
