Stus-List Bilge pump breaker issue

[cenelson--- via CnC-List]

My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect immediately after 
being switched on.
I suspect my rule pump has failed and developed a short to ground although it 
might be a wire that has either shorted or it might be the water witch float 
switch.
My thought is to just replace the pump and see if that does it—I have an 
identical spare pump on board. BTW, I never rely on the float switch when away 
from the boat—so this breaker is always off unless I am on board. 
Other suggestions from listers are welcome.
Thanks,
Charlie NelsonC 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom


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Stu

Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

[Josh via CnC-List]

https://www.marineengine.com/boat-accessories/plumbing/gulper-320-shower-bilge-waste-pump-whale-water-systems.php?msclkid=c321d1f6c67411f652dcb56da39db79b

The actual pump doesn't need to be in the bilge, just the end of the suction 
hose.  I have mine mounted on wood pads I epoxied to the hull under the floor 
boards.  5 GPM.  It will run dry and dry prime.  It will also pass trash like 
paper pulp and bilge mung.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Good Morning,

The Jabsco diaphragm bilge pump has lost suction and needs to be replaced on my 
1979 C The original model has been discontinued (37202-). The closest 
match is the 37202-2012. The original pumps at 4.5gpm. This one is only 3gpm. 
Is this the best option or is there another make available?

Thanks

Brian C. Morrison
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Bilge pump outflow

[Dean McNeill via CnC-List]

On my C 34, I have a non-automatic bilge pump in the well next to the mast 
holder. It’s old and back flows about gallon (maybe an exaggeration!) of water 
back into the bilge once it shuts off. I’m replacing it and expect I can just 
attach the new bilge pump to the existing outflow piping. My question is, if I 
wanted to install a second one (automatic one), slightly higher in same area, 
Do I need an entirely new outflow and thru-hull or can I join it with a ‘Y’ 
connector to the same pipe as the first bilge pump… so they would each use same 
pipe/thru-hull?

Dean
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Stus-List BILGE PUMP RECOMENDATION REQUEST

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

Hello, I have a 1985 C 33-2.  I am looking to replacement my bilge pump
and looking for a recommended model.  Anyone with some insight to what is
the best.  I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[David Risch via CnC-List]

My primary was led out the starboard side…one day I realized it could give a 
fellow club member a snootful on the launch if the timing was wrong.  Changed 
the primary to new port outlet (ohhh it hurt drilling that hole) and the 
emergency (OMIGODWEREGONNASINK!) to that starboard outlet.

David F. Risch
Managing Director
Great Benefits USA
401-419-4650 - Direct Line
[https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download=1iPWGeVIdWdypHSMZPtJX0mxirxyZ4ZBN=0B9uSW32EcB8tZGxlWW1OMlJ6MXU0bmVaaFByQmlSVDMrOWNVPQ]
www.greatbenefitsusa.com<http://secure-web.cisco.com/1MKVfvkygVP51lGc2yziNIFDb1f7QyqlMMC0Ws5XFwrh5Z29yk8V9-H-BpWPdc4H-KLGYNJ8xByn00jzsd-2Ha4CJqta-Oi4SR3zv-ilvvFQgk2r1dTGx91oAnCtrCtWX3971epXdF8ZQx6oCN2aVAz4G2C1e3AFPPZNeJDlLweF62zGZQ07PHpl8HRpYdWC2krf8nk8VytnngLfzo-HMlRvyliYY5btbWmG2ov1MoH8MQ_Pu-H9km1SSOFq4VsiFRn62vshzHwa2jYYWiHfn79noxm3wQLeI3kjNdWmHg705FbzWALYFp_QCz0Eu9z0S/http%3A%2F%2Fwww.greatbenefitsusa.com%2F>

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From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2020 4:45 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

Yep!  That's where Touche's bilge discharge is located.  Right under the toe 
rail midships portside.  And right now, it's docked portside to on a floating 
pier.  My 1500 gph pump can throw a nice spurt onto the pier.  :)  The Admiral 
and I call it the "spurt zone" and know to avoid it.

I have to remember to turn the pump off when I'm waxing the portside.

The bilge/sump on the 35-1 is so small that when the pump activates, it 
essentially just fills the hose.  Early on, it just pumped water up the hose 
where it simply drained back into the sump, repeatedly.

I opted for the shortest length of hose and the Bosworth check valve.  Perhaps 
not the ideal configuration for dock "etiquette" or for when the port toe rail 
is buried but certainly effective emptying the bilge.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 3:07 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
David,

A discharge just below the toe rail on the stern corner is good since it is 
very unlikely to become submerged under any circumstance.  Unfortunately that 
could mean that those standing on the dock or swimming near by might get a 
surprise if/when the pump runs.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep!  That's where Touche's bilge discharge is located.  Right under the
toe rail midships portside.  And right now, it's docked portside to on a
floating pier.  My 1500 gph pump can throw a nice spurt onto the pier.  :)
The Admiral and I call it the "spurt zone" and know to avoid it.

I have to remember to turn the pump off when I'm waxing the portside.

The bilge/sump on the 35-1 is so small that when the pump activates, it
essentially just fills the hose.  Early on, it just pumped water up the
hose where it simply drained back into the sump, repeatedly.

I opted for the shortest length of hose and the Bosworth check valve.
Perhaps not the ideal configuration for dock "etiquette" or for when the
port toe rail is buried but certainly effective emptying the bilge.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 3:07 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> A discharge just below the toe rail on the stern corner is good since it
> is very unlikely to become submerged under any circumstance.  Unfortunately
> that could mean that those standing on the dock or swimming near by might
> get a surprise if/when the pump runs.
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

They do, but more limited size and range.  Bosworth has 5 different types of 
flapper materials as well as barbed and smooth ended versions.  All are 
available directly at roughly the same price.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jul 23, 2020, at 3:58 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think Fisheries Supply sell them
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2020 3:47 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve
>  
> That is the one I was looking at, so thanks for confirming.  Not easy to 
> find, but Bosworth has a non-obvious direct order system where you can get 
> anything and their customer service was great.  Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> Install a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve or very similar.  When you install it 
> orient it so the hinge on the valve is at the top.
>  
> I've had one in Touche' for about 20 years with no issues.

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

David,

I didn't know the name but definitely recognized the design.  The Bosworth
is the type which I installed.  I have one in the drain line for the port
side head sink drain also.  The 37+ owners regularly report that on strong
starboard tacks the head sink will backup and over flow as a result of the
drain piping going below the water line.  I try to just keep the thru-hull
closed but if I forget then the check valve is a good backup.

If you are getting forceful back flow in your bilge then I would suggest
changing the discharge path/location of your bilge pump.  A discharge just
below the toe rail on the stern corner is good since it is very unlikely to
become submerged under any circumstance.  Unfortunately that could mean
that those standing on the dock or swimming near by might get a surprise
if/when the pump runs.  If a lower location is selected then at least try
to keep it as high off the water line as possible during all points of
sail.  In this case also route the hose to include a high point loop that
gets as near the top center of the boat as possible to prevent a siphon.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020, 15:47 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That is the one I was looking at, so thanks for confirming.  Not easy to
> find, but Bosworth has a non-obvious direct order system where you can get
> anything and their customer service was great.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Install a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve or very similar.  When you install
> it orient it so the hinge on the valve is at the top.
>
> I've had one in Touche' for about 20 years with no issues.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had a periodic problem with water coming in the bilge pump under
>> certain conditions.  It seems that when the bilge pump outlet was under
>> water, usually when motoring, water could flow under pressure through the
>> bilge pump.  This seemed not to be a siphon, but a water pressure situation
>> since it stopped when the boat slowed down (making it difficult to
>> diagnose, of course).  I installed a check valve in the bilge pump line and
>> the problem stopped for several years.  It happened again last weekend
>> while motor sailing in swells, so I am planning to replace the check
>> valve.  I vaguely remember someone suggesting a particular brand of check
>> valve as working particularaly well, but I can’t find the post.  Reviews I
>> have seen on various sites have complaints about all of them, so hard to
>> choose. I think I have the Whale no-return valve now.   Anyone have a brand
>> suggestion?  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> David Knecht
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think Fisheries Supply sell them

 

Bill Coleman

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2020 3:47 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

 

That is the one I was looking at, so thanks for confirming.  Not easy to find, 
but Bosworth has a non-obvious direct order system where you can get anything 
and their customer service was great.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Install a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve or very similar.  When you install it 
orient it so the hinge on the valve is at the top.

 

I've had one in Touche' for about 20 years with no issues.

 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I had a periodic problem with water coming in the bilge pump under certain 
conditions.  It seems that when the bilge pump outlet was under water, usually 
when motoring, water could flow under pressure through the bilge pump.  This 
seemed not to be a siphon, but a water pressure situation since it stopped when 
the boat slowed down (making it difficult to diagnose, of course).  I installed 
a check valve in the bilge pump line and the problem stopped for several years. 
 It happened again last weekend while motor sailing in swells, so I am planning 
to replace the check valve.  I vaguely remember someone suggesting a particular 
brand of check valve as working particularaly well, but I can’t find the post.  
Reviews I have seen on various sites have complaints about all of them, so hard 
to choose. I think I have the Whale no-return valve now.   Anyone have a brand 
suggestion?  Thanks- Dave

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT


 

 

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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

That is the one I was looking at, so thanks for confirming.  Not easy to find, 
but Bosworth has a non-obvious direct order system where you can get anything 
and their customer service was great.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jul 21, 2020, at 9:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Install a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve or very similar.  When you install it 
> orient it so the hinge on the valve is at the top.
> 
> I've had one in Touche' for about 20 years with no issues.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I had a periodic problem with water coming in the bilge pump under certain 
> conditions.  It seems that when the bilge pump outlet was under water, 
> usually when motoring, water could flow under pressure through the bilge 
> pump.  This seemed not to be a siphon, but a water pressure situation since 
> it stopped when the boat slowed down (making it difficult to diagnose, of 
> course).  I installed a check valve in the bilge pump line and the problem 
> stopped for several years.  It happened again last weekend while motor 
> sailing in swells, so I am planning to replace the check valve.  I vaguely 
> remember someone suggesting a particular brand of check valve as working 
> particularaly well, but I can’t find the post.  Reviews I have seen on 
> various sites have complaints about all of them, so hard to choose. I think I 
> have the Whale no-return valve now.   Anyone have a brand suggestion?  
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Install a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve or very similar.  When you install
it orient it so the hinge on the valve is at the top.

I've had one in Touche' for about 20 years with no issues.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a periodic problem with water coming in the bilge pump under certain
> conditions.  It seems that when the bilge pump outlet was under water,
> usually when motoring, water could flow under pressure through the bilge
> pump.  This seemed not to be a siphon, but a water pressure situation since
> it stopped when the boat slowed down (making it difficult to diagnose, of
> course).  I installed a check valve in the bilge pump line and the problem
> stopped for several years.  It happened again last weekend while motor
> sailing in swells, so I am planning to replace the check valve.  I vaguely
> remember someone suggesting a particular brand of check valve as working
> particularaly well, but I can’t find the post.  Reviews I have seen on
> various sites have complaints about all of them, so hard to choose. I think
> I have the Whale no-return valve now.   Anyone have a brand suggestion?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List Bilge pump check valve

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had a periodic problem with water coming in the bilge pump under certain 
conditions.  It seems that when the bilge pump outlet was under water, usually 
when motoring, water could flow under pressure through the bilge pump.  This 
seemed not to be a siphon, but a water pressure situation since it stopped when 
the boat slowed down (making it difficult to diagnose, of course).  I installed 
a check valve in the bilge pump line and the problem stopped for several years. 
 It happened again last weekend while motor sailing in swells, so I am planning 
to replace the check valve.  I vaguely remember someone suggesting a particular 
brand of check valve as working particularaly well, but I can’t find the post.  
Reviews I have seen on various sites have complaints about all of them, so hard 
to choose. I think I have the Whale no-return valve now.   Anyone have a brand 
suggestion?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I also used Trident 147 for my bilge pump (and shower pump) - it is nice to
work with, cleans easily and because it is partially clear you can see if
there is water in it or if you have a blockage.  Only had it installed for
2 years, but so far looks and feels like new.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

I recently ordered some Trident 147 hose for this purpose.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3058097  It appears sufficiently
robust, and I like: a) it does not required cuffs; and b) the exterior is
smooth for cleaning.  Do not get the less expensive Trident 144, as the
exterior is not smooth and it should be sold with cuffs (which I don't
believe are available).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:30 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

 

All the talk about the bilge pumps and switches brought up in mind (the long
overdue) need to replace the bilge pump hose.

 

Is there a "recommended" hose? I don't want to do the replacement and go
through the pain running that hose through various tight spots and turns
only to find out that the hose would disintegrate in a few years.

 

Thank you for your suggestions.

 

Marek

19945 C270 Legato.

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I made a setup like that.  I have not yet installed it.  This would be my
"second" stage - maybe only with a manual switch.  With the centrifugal
being the first.
https://youtu.be/mEFCPYiqdbg

Josh

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 11:40 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> http://lnvtblog.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-slurpee-bilge-pump.html’
>
>
>
>
> https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/
>
>
>
> I think this came up around a year ago –
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Rutherford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 24, 2020 11:13 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>
>
>
> Johnson Pumps integrated pump and electronic sensor 32-47260-003 1000 GPH
> Ultima Bilge Pump, 12V, works good for me now.
>
>
>
> The bilge on my centerboard boat is quite shallow and there is no room for
> a switch at the same level as the pump resulting in more than necessary
> residual water level  if controled with a typical float switch. This pump
> requires careful placement to ensure proper start-stop operation. First
> unit ran dry and failed but was replaced under warranty. Works with a
> typical 3-wire bilge control panel.
>
>
>
> Pump runs dry sometimes when sailing heeled over so occassionally have to
> switch to manual.
>
>
>
> This freed up the existing rule-matic switch to be used as a high water
> sensor wired to a water witch BP500 alarm mounted topside in the cockpit.
>
>
>
> Wish I had a diaphragm pump for a really dry bilge but with the A/C
> running almost nonstop here in Florida, and draining condensate into the
> bilge, it's not a likely solution.
>
>
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
>
> 1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
>
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> Tampa, Florida
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Bilge pump hose

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

All the talk about the bilge pumps and switches brought up in mind (the long 
overdue) need to replace the bilge pump hose.

Is there a “recommended” hose? I don’t want to do the replacement and go 
through the pain running that hose through various tight spots and turns only 
to find out that the hose would disintegrate in a few years.

Thank you for your suggestions.

Marek
19945 C270 Legato.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

http://lnvtblog.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-slurpee-bilge-pump.html’

 

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

 

I think this came up around a year ago – 

 

Bill

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
Rutherford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Tim Rutherford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

 

Johnson Pumps integrated pump and electronic sensor 32-47260-003 1000 GPH 
Ultima Bilge Pump, 12V, works good for me now.

 

The bilge on my centerboard boat is quite shallow and there is no room for a 
switch at the same level as the pump resulting in more than necessary residual 
water level  if controled with a typical float switch. This pump requires 
careful placement to ensure proper start-stop operation. First unit ran dry and 
failed but was replaced under warranty. Works with a typical 3-wire bilge 
control panel.

 

Pump runs dry sometimes when sailing heeled over so occassionally have to 
switch to manual. 

 

This freed up the existing rule-matic switch to be used as a high water sensor 
wired to a water witch BP500 alarm mounted topside in the cockpit. 

 

Wish I had a diaphragm pump for a really dry bilge but with the A/C running 
almost nonstop here in Florida, and draining condensate into the bilge, it's 
not a likely solution. 

 

--
Tim Rutherford

1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé 

tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Tampa, Florida 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Johnson Pumps integrated pump and electronic sensor 32-47260-003 1000 GPH
Ultima Bilge Pump, 12V, works good for me now.

The bilge on my centerboard boat is quite shallow and there is no room for
a switch at the same level as the pump resulting in more than necessary
residual water level  if controled with a typical float switch. This pump
requires careful placement to ensure proper start-stop operation. First
unit ran dry and failed but was replaced under warranty. Works with a
typical 3-wire bilge control panel.

Pump runs dry sometimes when sailing heeled over so occassionally have to
switch to manual.

This freed up the existing rule-matic switch to be used as a high water
sensor wired to a water witch BP500 alarm mounted topside in the cockpit.

Wish I had a diaphragm pump for a really dry bilge but with the A/C running
almost nonstop here in Florida, and draining condensate into the bilge,
it's not a likely solution.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Tampa, Florida


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I too, like the Whale diaphragm pumps for sucking the last drop, and a 
centrifugal pump for serious water.

 

I did notice that you have to occasionally wipe the bottom, or sensing area of 
the electronic switches off, to remove film, or whatever, or they will get 
confused. But the Whale Pumps can run dry without ruining them.

 

I did just buy one of the Johnson Pumps last year, I am sad to hear that those 
motors will also die in a few years. I thought they were a direct replacement 
for the Rule, but the output was off just a little bit.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

 

I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

 

 Original message 

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List  

Date: 6/23/20 4:02 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: wolf...@erie.net 

Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump question 

 

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the bilge, but 
it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch and install a 
sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me that having 
redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to people like for 
placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I don't need an 
automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Added a counter.  It was great.  Then I replace bilge pump with new water 
sensing integrated one.  Not great.  It records all of the sensing cycles.  
Need to replace it again with old school pump.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:04 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

Interesting story when we first got Astralis.  After going through the boat 
what I thought was pretty well prior to moving the boat, we took off one 
morning to start the 120 mile trip.

After a few minutes getting outside the harbor, I had one of my friends take 
the helm.  I went down below to check things out, and found our bilge pump 
switch like this one throwing a red light:

https://www.amazon.com/Rule-41-Marine-Deluxe-12-Volt/dp/B000O8EZYA/ref=asc_df_B000O8EZYA/?tag=hyprod-20=df0=312128389336==g=6108134242188170768c===9012380=pla-570016585845=1

That caused me to investigate, and I found that water was coming into the boat 
through a cracked exhaust hose all the way at the stern where it exited the 
boat.

We turned around, got back to the marina, got a piece of hose, and had 
everything fixed less than 3 hours later.

I'm glad that light turns on when the bilge pump turns on!

I would, however like to add a counter on my two bilge pumps...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I don’t understand the problem you have with the Water Witch sensor (installed 
one last summer).  Mine sits well above normal bilge water level and below the 
floorboards.  It does not get wet  unless there is a problem and thus I would 
not expect it to need cleaning.  Where is yours mounted?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 24, 2020, at 8:47 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bruce
>  
> That is the only problem with Water Witch.  Cleaning the sensor by wiping it 
> clean and dry resolves this for us.  It tends to get slimy over time and 
> because of that thinks it is still submerged
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com <http://www.hoytsailing.com/>
>  
> From: CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf Of bwhitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: June 23, 2020 10:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: bwhitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>  
> I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.  
>  I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
> have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>  
>  
>  Original message 
> From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Date: 6/23/20 4:02 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: wolf...@erie.net <mailto:wolf...@erie.net>
> Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>  
> Listers:
> 
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the bilge, but 
> it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch and install 
> a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me that having 
> redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to people like 
> for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I don't 
> need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting story when we first got Astralis.  After going through the boat 
what I thought was pretty well prior to moving the boat, we took off one 
morning to start the 120 mile trip.  

After a few minutes getting outside the harbor, I had one of my friends take 
the helm.  I went down below to check things out, and found our bilge pump 
switch like this one throwing a red light:
https://www.amazon.com/Rule-41-Marine-Deluxe-12-Volt/dp/B000O8EZYA/ref=asc_df_B000O8EZYA/?tag=hyprod-20=df0=312128389336==g=6108134242188170768c===9012380=pla-570016585845=1
That caused me to investigate, and I found that water was coming into the boat 
through a cracked exhaust hose all the way at the stern where it exited the 
boat.  

We turned around, got back to the marina, got a piece of hose, and had 
everything fixed less than 3 hours later.  

I'm glad that light turns on when the bilge pump turns on!
I would, however like to add a counter on my two bilge pumps...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

  
 ___

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question - switch recommendation

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My choice for bilge pump switches is one of the Ultra Safety Systems
switches.  Fairly bombproof.  The other advantage is you don't have to make
the "Y" connection on the positive wires from the "Manual" side of the
control switch and the float switch.  That connection is made inside the
switch.

https://www.ultratef-gel.com/product-category/ultrabilgepumpswitch/

There are several models to fit your needs.  Different sizes and with or
without a connection for an alarm.  Available on Amazon and elsewhere.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 7:48 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bruce
>
>
>
> That is the only problem with Water Witch.  Cleaning the sensor by wiping
> it clean and dry resolves this for us.  It tends to get slimy over time and
> because of that thinks it is still submerged
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

That is the only problem with Water Witch.  Cleaning the sensor by wiping it 
clean and dry resolves this for us.  It tends to get slimy over time and 
because of that thinks it is still submerged

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of bwhitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 23, 2020 10:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.



Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/23/20 4:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: wolf...@erie.net<mailto:wolf...@erie.net>
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump question

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the bilge, but 
it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch and install a 
sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me that having 
redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to people like for 
placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I don't need an 
automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions.


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Matt

Persistence has a diaphragm pump that runs manually via switch or automatically 
by Water Witch.  We really like the Water Witch but the sensor needs to be 
wiped clean a couple times a year to prevent the pump from running too often.  
Pump is PAR model 36680-2000.  

We like the diaphragm pump because it takes the bilge water level very low 
compared to other types of pumps but the disadvantage is flow rate is less than 
the other pumps as well.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matt Wolford via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 23, 2020 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump question

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second the idea of redundant bilge pumps and I have installed both a 300 gph 
diaphragm with a water witch mounted as low as I could get it to suck water 
reliably in addition to the a 1500 centrifuge pump with a mechanical float 
switch that came with the boat. The centrifugal pump float switch is higher so 
it rarely runs except when I test it a few times a season so it should last a 
while I hope. 

I agree with Josh that I am not sure if the centrifugal pump will really pump 
much faster then the diaphragm under real world conditions. Having the manual 
pump in the cockpit and making sure that is in good condition (test and rebuild 
or replace if it is old because the rubber parts will fail - I found mine which 
was luckily original failed after a few strokes when I tested it last year) and 
I see it as is critical if you are on the boat and taking on water.

I also have a  counter on the water witch / diaphragm so I can check how many 
times it has come on since last time I was on the boat. A few times depending 
on how much it rained (coming down the mast) is normal. More than that is a 
sign of a problem.  Thinking I should add a warning light And/or buzzer as 
others have mentioned in the past so I will notice if it is running while 
motoring or sailing.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Fair enough Josh,  I don't have the backup of the high capacity centrifugal 
pump.Of course, with my recent fiasco. I am evidently at much higher risk of 
being killed by an errant jetski than drowning because my bilge pump won't keep 
up.  :(More on that is forthcoming...Thanks as always to Josh, your insights 
are always invaluable. Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  11:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question Bruce,That's why I like the 2 stage system which 
I suggested.  It gets the best of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid 
points about the weaknesses of centrifugal pumps.Josh On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 
22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:I hate disagreeing 
with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my opinion is that if you 
need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the 
boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may give you more time to 
find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least 
never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will 
actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't 
think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 gph.Centrifugal pumps tend 
to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps are not affected nearly 
as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung tablet. Original 
message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  Date: 
6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List  Cc: Josh 
Muckley  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question The 
diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to be 
relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high of 
a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You could 
have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow pump run 
as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can pump the 
dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.For high flow you're basically going 
to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the original Rule with another pricey 
Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood 
Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump. 
 I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

That's why I like the 2 stage system which I suggested.  It gets the best
of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid points about the weaknesses of
centrifugal pumps.

Josh


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.
>
> But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is
> dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If
> you're on the boat, it may give you more time to find the leak, but my
> centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the
> stated volume.
>
> I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a
> 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that
> actually delivers 500 gph.
>
> Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm
> pumps are not affected nearly as much.
>
> Just my $.02 worth
>
> Bruce
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>
> The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they
> tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider
> adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an
> automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having
> just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once
> the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm
> pump.
>
> For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I
> replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed
> withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed
> within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not
> hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers:
>>
>> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for
>> the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
>> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
>> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
>> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
>> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
>> suggestions.
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I didn’t chime in, so you’re only disagreeing with Josh :-). 

I’m way off the norm on this topic. Years ago, I installed an automatic bilge 
pump with a float switch on the Enterprise-A (C 34) which worked great for a 
couple of months. Then the float switch malfunctioned and was stuck in the on 
position, killing the battery. 

Now I’m back to the old fashioned way - no automatic; just switched. 

Normally, my bilge is steadily low. And after some major rainfall, it’ll pump 
out pretty quickly. 

I agree with Bruce — if you find that you need more than 300gph on a regular 
basis, you’ve got a bigger problem and you’re better off finding it and 
correcting it. 

My pump is 200gph, and maybe I’ll use it once every two months for three 
minutes or less. The last time I had to run it more frequently than that, I 
needed new packing in my stuffing box. 

PS - Don’t  be afraid to disagree with Josh. Sometimes it’s good to put that 
young hippie know-it-all in his place now and then. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:53 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:


I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  

But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically 
wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, 
it may give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to 
clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   

I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 
1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that 
actually delivers 500 gph.

Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps 
are not affected nearly as much.

Just my $.02 worth

Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to 
be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high 
of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You 
could have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow 
pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can 
pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Listers:
> 
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
> and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
> that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
> people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so 
> I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Josh;

 

I installed the Johnson pump several years ago. I really like the fact that the 
motor can be easily removed for cleaning and for replacement. Yes, it still 
needs to be replaced about every 3 years; I actually keep a spare motor 
cartridge among the spares on the boat.

 

I’m lucky that when I bought the first pump from West Marine I added the 3 year 
extended warranty (about $15 IIRC). When the first motor failed, I installed 
the spare and got a new replacement from WM under the warranty (which became 
the spare). I also bought the extended warranty on that replacement pump. I 
think the spare currently on the boat is the third one that has been replaced 
under extended warranty over the years.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

 

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my 
opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  
If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may 
give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, 
bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 
gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that 
ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 
gph.Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm 
pumps are not affected nearly as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the 
very last drops but they tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest 
that you consider adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run 
on an automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really 
having just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once 
the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm 
pump.For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I 
replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years 
and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will 
last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn 
Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend
to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding
as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic
switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having just the
new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge
is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced
the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3
years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that
it will last more than 3 years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  4:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wolf...@erie.net Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump 
question Listers:New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump 
for the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the 
switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to 
me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. Thanks 
everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Looks like a nice device, but I'd prefer one that can tell me where where
the water is coming from after a brisk sail. After 30 years in IT building
redundant systems, I learned that it's often the simplest thing that fails,
and if you don't know what to do when it does (and it's backup also fails),
no amount of redundancy will save you. But it is also very good to know
when something is behaving our of the ordinary, like a pump cycling more
often or longer than usual.
I once almost lost a large storage array once when I discovered the failure
alerting systems were not working, so we all assumed that the "hotspare"
drives were all operative. I happened to notice an error light one day,
only to find that three of the four spare drives had already failed (part
of a bad batch of drives...). So warning systems are great, but procedures
to check that they are working are also critical to avoid a false sense of
security.

For me, almost every time I arrive at the boat, I manually cycle the bilge
pump, and listen to the noise. If it takes longer than usual to empty the
bilge, I will investigate. If so, the next thing I will do is manually lift
the float switch to ensure it's still working. But I am rarely away for
more than a week, and have a second pump with a higher float switch in case
the primary fails, so this is enough redundancy.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 10:51 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody got one of these?
>
>
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>
>
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
> rolls.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Not a common occurrence even with these old C boats.  Anyway if you want
these electronics and you put your trust in them and don’t mind the hassle
they give you with keeping them working and somewhat reliable: fine with
me. Let me know where i am and where i am headed and how fast like the
chart plotter does and i am ok. That’s why i got a backup chart plotter in
my hand held gps. Plus one more hand held both battery powered AA so i can
lots of AA’s always. They are cheap to buy. Makes me and her feel better
about sailing. Hitting fog around here is inevitable. We get through it
just fine.

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 6:50 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And If you are in this situation,
>
>
>
> <>
>
>
>
> Then none of this matters, because your boat is probably on the bottom!
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
> vanderkruk via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, March 27, 2020 4:26 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter
>
>
>
> That's where the programming part comes in ...
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 2:36 p.m. Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump
> cannot keep up with is only 1 cycle!
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of
> Boats ... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects
> on/off ) for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of
> programming to get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for
> IoT.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Anybody got one of these?
>
>
>
>
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>
>
>
>
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>
>
>
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>
>
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>
>
>
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>
>
>
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
> rolls.  :)
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

And If you are in this situation, 

 

<>

 

Then none of this matters, because your boat is probably on the bottom!

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 4:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

 

That's where the programming part comes in ...

 

 

Ed

 

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 2:36 p.m. Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump cannot 
keep up with is only 1 cycle!

Joe

 

On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:

Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of Boats ... 
Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects on/off ) for $30 
but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of programming to get it all 
integrated. But then you could be on your way for IoT. 

 

 

Ed

 

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Anybody got one of these? 

 

https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel 

 

Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.  

 

Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:

 

https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/ 

 

However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.   

 

Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche' 
rolls.  :) 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I don’t and i don’t want one. Sailors gotta learn how to do it all without
these multitude of fancy electronics. Dead reckoning and do some sailin.
Best fun you can have. I do value my chart plotter and my backup chart
plotter even more and that takes the “dead” out of reckoning

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 2:51 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody got one of these?
>
>
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>
>
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
> rolls.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

That's where the programming part comes in ...


Ed

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 2:36 p.m. Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump
> cannot keep up with is only 1 cycle!
>
> Joe
>
>
> On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of
> Boats ... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects
> on/off ) for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of
> programming to get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for
> IoT.
>
>
> Ed
>
> On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Anybody got one of these?
>>
>>
>> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>>
>>
>> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>>
>> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>>
>> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>>
>> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>>
>> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
>> rolls.  :)
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The Blue Guard one actually does cycle counts and run time.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 1:36 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump
> cannot keep up with is only 1 cycle!
>
> Joe
>
>
> On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of
> Boats ... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects
> on/off ) for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of
> programming to get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for
> IoT.
>
>
> Ed
>
> On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Anybody got one of these?
>>
>>
>> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>>
>>
>> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>>
>> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>>
>> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>>
>> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>>
>> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
>> rolls.  :)
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump 
cannot keep up with is only 1 cycle!


Joe


On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of 
Boats ... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects 
on/off ) for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of 
programming to get it all integrated. But then you could be on your 
way for IoT.



Ed

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Anybody got one of these?


https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel


Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.

Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:

https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/

However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.

Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how
Touche' rolls.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of Boats
... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects on/off )
for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of programming to
get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for IoT.


Ed

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody got one of these?
>
>
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>
>
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
> rolls.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I have a Siren system installed on Masquerade. It uses cell data to report 
status of systems on the boat remotely. I am very satisfied with it. It does 
require a subscription, but it’s pretty reasonable.
Andy 
Masquerade
In Delaware Bay 

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 27, 2020, at 13:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anybody got one of these?
> 
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>  
> 
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.  
> 
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
> 
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/ 
> 
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.   
> 
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche' 
> rolls.  :) 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Anybody got one of these?

https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel


Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.

Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:

https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/

However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.

Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
rolls.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

That’s the one I have.  No issues at all  to date 

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon 

> On Dec 19, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Joe,

I'm sure it is the highest quality Chinesieum!

Joel

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 12:03 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Until you take the back cover off you don't know what kind of connectors
> are back there out of sight ;)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> On 12/19/2019 11:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I found one that does not have spade connectors:
>
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8=1
>
>
> Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Until you take the back cover off you don't know what kind of connectors 
are back there out of sight ;)


Joe

Coquina

On 12/19/2019 11:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

I found one that does not have spade connectors:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8=1 



Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.

--
Joel


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Stus-List Bilge pump switch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I found one that does not have spade connectors:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8=1


Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Joe,

I like the idea of a 3 way toggle switch and ring terminals!  Hopefully it
will fit in the hole where the current switch is.

Joel

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:51 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
> cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
> off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
> connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
> fuse a few inches from the terminal. Boat also has Whale gusher 10 manual
> bilge pump which is seldom used other than to test it out.
> On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:58 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but I
>> suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few things
>> that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on their own.
>> The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and squeeze the
>> fitting together on the switch.
>>
>> If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find
>> switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch=1576513553=8-9
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>> On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
>> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
>> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
>> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
fuse a few inches from the terminal. Boat also has Whale gusher 10 manual
bilge pump which is seldom used other than to test it out.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:58 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but I
> suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few things
> that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on their own.
> The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and squeeze the
> fitting together on the switch.
>
> If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find
> switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch=1576513553=8-9
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but 
I suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few 
things that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on 
their own. The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and 
squeeze the fitting together on the switch.


If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find 
switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:


https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch=1576513553=8-9


Joe

Coquina


On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that 
does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they 
are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction 
fitting.

If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!

--
Joel


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Joel,

Not that I know of.  Touche's bilge switch is high up in a bulkhead in a
secure place where nothing will fall on or contact the back of the switch
or the wires.  The push on connectors are Ancor and fit tightly.  The wires
are secured in a manner that there is and will be no strain on the
connectors.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:15 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>
> --
> Joel
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is why I use heat shrink crimp connectors, coat the wire with tef gel 
before crimping, shrink the tubing and follow with coating the connector with 
liquid electrical tape.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/16/19  11:14 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge pump switches While we are talking about bilge pump controls, 
is there a switch that does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've 
zip-tied so they are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a 
friction fitting.If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the 
bilge pump!-- Joel 
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Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that does
NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That's right Russ!  In leakage would be at least 5 times the flow rate of a
typical 1200 gph pump on a good day.  IMO, Using 4000 and 5000 gph pumps
should be the norm and excepted minimum for emergency dewatering pumps.

It also goes to show that plugging the hole and plugging it well is a
bigger priority than dewatering.

Rule 56D 4000 GPH Marine Bilge Pump, Non-Automatic, 12 Volt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8B7LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1Q2qCbPE6BPMB

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 1:06 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and
> estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about
> 3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.
>
> The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less
> after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.
>
> If anyone is really worried about emergency pump
> I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of
> course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)
>
>  Cheers, Russ
>
>
>
> At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >I'm preferential to a float type auto switch
> >wired in parallel with the manual switch.  My
> >auto float switch is mounted above the pump and
> >only turns on when a considerable amount of
> >water accumulates.  Under normal conditions I
> >manually pump the bilge down and the float just
> >catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.
> >
> >I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a
> >perfect I world have a very high capacity
> >"emergency" pump and associated auto float
> >mounted just above the float for the lower
> >"normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not
> >have a check valve.  It would have a high loop
> >to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent
> >backflow.  It would also be as short and
> >straight of a run as possible to the
> >discharge.  In this way I could ensure the
> >emergency reliability and capacity of an
> >emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and
> >rarely using it.  I would retain the normal
> >bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its
> >lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and manually.
> >
> >The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5
> >gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can
> >move manually but not much.  Once, I
> >accidentally left the transducer plugs out when
> >launching the boat.  We discovered the
> >situation before water got to the floor boards
> >but not before a considerable amount of water
> >had made it in.  Once the situation was
> >corrected the bilge pump continued to run for
> >what seemed like the better part of 5
> >minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds
> >big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that
> >failed, the pump almost certainly would not have
> >kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.
> >
> >Josh MuckleyÂ
> >S/V Sea HawkÂ
> >1989 C 37+
> >Solomons, MDÂ
> >
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and 
estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about 
3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.


The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less 
after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.


If anyone is really worried about emergency pump 
I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of 
course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)


Cheers, Russ



At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:



I'm preferential to a float type auto switch 
wired in parallel with the manual switch.  My 
auto float switch is mounted above the pump and 
only turns on when a considerable amount of 
water accumulates.  Under normal conditions I 
manually pump the bilge down and the float just 
catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.


I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a 
perfect I world have a very high capacity 
"emergency" pump and associated auto float 
mounted just above the float for the lower 
"normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not 
have a check valve.  It would have a high loop 
to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent 
backflow.  It would also be as short and 
straight of a run as possible to the 
discharge.  In this way I could ensure the 
emergency reliability and capacity of an 
emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
rarely using it.  I would retain the normal 
bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its 
lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and manually.


The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 
gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can 
move manually but not much.  Once, I 
accidentally left the transducer plugs out when 
launching the boat.  We discovered the 
situation before water got to the floor boards 
but not before a considerable amount of water 
had made it in.  Once the situation was 
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for 
what seemed like the better part of 5 
minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds 
big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
failed, the pump almost certainly would not have 
kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ




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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have the same setup as Josh and also have a check valve.  The reason I added 
the check valve is that I have twice had water being driven into the boat 
through the bilge pump outlet and through the bilge pump into the bilge on the 
first motor down the river in the spring after launch.  I don’t understand the 
phenomenon as it only ever happened on that first motor trip after launch and 
not every time.  The bilge pump exits on the underside of the transom so is 
underwater when motoring fast (in fresh water as well).  The pressure seemed to 
drive water through the pump into the bilge and would stop when we slowed down. 
 It would eventually stop coming in altogether, but I never figured out why.  
There is a loop to break siphon, but that would not help if the water pressure 
from motion drives water up through the loop.  So unless I figure this out, I 
will stick with the check valve.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 15, 2019, at 3:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've have surprisingly good results using Atwood pumps.  They advertise as 
> being Johnson replaceable and have a 3 year warranty.  I don't know about 
> being a better foot print, higher capacity, better built, or more reliable.  
> My most recent one lasted about 3 years which matched the age of the more 
> expensive Rule which it replaced.
> 
> I installed a rule automatic pump shortly after buying the boat.  When in 
> auto it would start every 2.5 minutes and "test" for water.  Unfortunately 
> with even a small amount of backflow this could cause it to cycle excessively 
> by getting false positives when it "tested" for water.  This was annoying in 
> the least, particularly when trying to sleep.
> 
> I'm preferential to a float type auto switch wired in parallel with the 
> manual switch.  My auto float switch is mounted above the pump and only turns 
> on when a considerable amount of water accumulates.  Under normal conditions 
> I manually pump the bilge down and the float just catches it when I've 
> abandoned the boat for weeks on end.
> 
> I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a perfect I world have a very 
> high capacity "emergency" pump and associated auto float mounted just above 
> the float for the lower "normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not have a 
> check valve.  It would have a high loop to avoid a siphon but nothing to 
> prevent backflow.  It would also be as short and straight of a run as 
> possible to the discharge.  In this way I could ensure the emergency 
> reliability and capacity of an emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
> rarely using it.  I would retain the normal bilge pump's ability to pump the 
> bilge to its lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and 
> manually.
> 
> The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 gallon buckets per minute - 
> more flow than I can move manually but not much.  Once, I accidentally left 
> the transducer plugs out when launching the boat.  We discovered the 
> situation before water got to the floor boards but not before a considerable 
> amount of water had made it in.  Once the situation was corrected the bilge 
> pump continued to run for what seemed like the better part of 5 minutes.  The 
> point being, 1200gph sounds big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
> failed, the pump almost certainly would not have kept up and that is the 
> least catastrophic emergency I can think of.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 15, 2019 12:16 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is 

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump...now outlet location

[David via CnC-List]

So it dawned on me one day...my primary pump exited midships on the starboard 
side under the gunwale.  Right where the launch lands.  Potentially giving one 
of my club-mates a snoot-full of bilge water.  Not good.

So moved primary to port side and routed the high water emergency pump outlet 
to starboard side.  Much better.

Just a  thought.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The only concern with a position displacement vane pump is that they can
burn up if run without sufficient water - if for example you left it on or
the float stuck.  They are also often relatively high current and low
flow.  The rubber impellers are wear items so planning a replacement
strategy is important.

There are other positive displacement pumps that might achieve the same dry
bilge in a more cost effective way.  Diaphragm pumps come to mind.  Rubber
diaphragms eventually wear out too but some have the advantage of being
able to pass "trash".  These too are relatively low flow and would best be
paired with a high volume emergency pump.

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product-application.aspx?Category_ID=1=Bilge


Josh



On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  You would NOT have a backflow issue since impeller pumps are positive
> displacement.  One big advantage of the impeller system is the suction hose
> could be routed to the very lowest point in the bilge sump.  Impeller pumps
> are self priming down a few feet.  While the float switch would shut off
> before complete emptying, you could empty the sump on "manual".
>
> With a typical centrifugal pump, you can only lower the water level to the
> inlet of the pump.  Don't know about your boat, but on Touche', that leaves
> a bunch of water in the sump.  The only way I can empty it is with the
> manual pump.
>
> Disadvantage might be trash damaging the impeller.  However, impeller
> pumps are widely used for bilge pumps on many, many boats.  There was one
> on Touche' when I bought it.  I stupidly replaced it with a centrifugal
> pump.  :(  Should have left it.
>
> Dennis
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 2:40 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and
>> the water puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the
>> advantages (or disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?
>> How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Richard
>>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You would NOT have a backflow issue since impeller pumps are positive
displacement.  One big advantage of the impeller system is the suction hose
could be routed to the very lowest point in the bilge sump.  Impeller pumps
are self priming down a few feet.  While the float switch would shut off
before complete emptying, you could empty the sump on "manual".

With a typical centrifugal pump, you can only lower the water level to the
inlet of the pump.  Don't know about your boat, but on Touche', that leaves
a bunch of water in the sump.  The only way I can empty it is with the
manual pump.

Disadvantage might be trash damaging the impeller.  However, impeller pumps
are widely used for bilge pumps on many, many boats.  There was one on
Touche' when I bought it.  I stupidly replaced it with a centrifugal pump.
:(  Should have left it.

Dennis

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 2:40 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and the 
> water
> puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the advantages (or
> disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?
> How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
> Thanks
>
> Richard
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and the 
water puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the advantages (or 
disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?  
How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
 Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, MIle 596;
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 


Depends on the check valve.  I wouldn't trust any metal check valve due to the 
potential for corrosion.  Corrosion could a) lock the valve open and b) ruin 
the sealing surface so it doesn't seal.
I do like, and have on Touche', a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve.  This is a 
plastic flapper style valve with a rubber flap.  It's worked for almost two 
decades without issue.
I also relocated the bilge discharge to the port side midships from the 
starboard quarter to decrease the hose run.
If I was to reconfigure the bilge pump entirely, I would consider a Ultra 
Safety Systems mini bilge pump switch and a "water puppy" style impeller pump 
in a storage under a seat.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've have surprisingly good results using Atwood pumps.  They advertise as
being Johnson replaceable and have a 3 year warranty.  I don't know about
being a better foot print, higher capacity, better built, or more
reliable.  My most recent one lasted about 3 years which matched the age of
the more expensive Rule which it replaced.

I installed a rule automatic pump shortly after buying the boat.  When in
auto it would start every 2.5 minutes and "test" for water.  Unfortunately
with even a small amount of backflow this could cause it to cycle
excessively by getting false positives when it "tested" for water.  This
was annoying in the least, particularly when trying to sleep.

I'm preferential to a float type auto switch wired in parallel with the
manual switch.  My auto float switch is mounted above the pump and only
turns on when a considerable amount of water accumulates.  Under normal
conditions I manually pump the bilge down and the float just catches it
when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.

I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a perfect I world have a very
high capacity "emergency" pump and associated auto float mounted just above
the float for the lower "normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not have a
check valve.  It would have a high loop to avoid a siphon but nothing to
prevent backflow.  It would also be as short and straight of a run as
possible to the discharge.  In this way I could ensure the emergency
reliability and capacity of an emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and
rarely using it.  I would retain the normal bilge pump's ability to pump
the bilge to its lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically
and manually.

The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 gallon buckets per minute -
more flow than I can move manually but not much.  Once, I accidentally left
the transducer plugs out when launching the boat.  We discovered the
situation before water got to the floor boards but not before a
considerable amount of water had made it in.  Once the situation was
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for what seemed like the better
part of 5 minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds big... It isn't.  If I
had a shaft seal that failed, the pump almost certainly would not have kept
up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jan 15, 2019 12:16 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some
people here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main",
often turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the
bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main"
electric pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500
out there that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line
but the pump is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be
a choice ? What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water
witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against
this, aka Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Depends on the check valve.  I wouldn't trust any metal check valve due to
the potential for corrosion.  Corrosion could a) lock the valve open and b)
ruin the sealing surface so it doesn't seal.

I do like, and have on Touche', a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve.  This is a
plastic flapper style valve with a rubber flap.  It's worked for almost two
decades without issue.

I also relocated the bilge discharge to the port side midships from the
starboard quarter to decrease the hose run.

If I was to reconfigure the bilge pump entirely, I would consider a Ultra
Safety Systems mini bilge pump switch and a "water puppy" style impeller
pump in a storage under a seat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



> You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge
> connection from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to
> the discharge connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be
> self-draining outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it
> minimizes the amount of bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when
> the pump shuts off.
>
> I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is
> the last place you want a line blockage.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I guess we are all different.  In my case, I have two long-haired cats that 
liveaboard with us.  It is impossible to keep cat hair out of my bilge—this is 
all it takes to clog up a check valve if it hangs up there.  I’m surprised that 
I haven’t had cat hair clog up my bilge pump as of yet.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 15, 2019, at 1:14 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You can rerun the hose to acheive this, but it depends of your layout.
> 
> Rule now make a pump with an intergrated switch and check valve. It seems 
> they were against the check valve because of the possibility to get an air 
> lock. It is certanly an added restricion, but a line blockage risk, i doubt 
> it. I clean it every year, keep my bilge clean and the pump works often to 
> pump water coming from the mast. i prefer the check valve to a cycling pump 
> and more water in my bilge. It's a choice of compromise.
> 
> Bruno.
> 
> De : CnC-List  de la part de Robert Boyer via 
> CnC-List 
> Envoyé : 15 janvier 2019 12:47
> À : Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> Cc : Robert Boyer
> Objet : Re: Stus-List Bilge pump
>  
> You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
> from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
> connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
> outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount 
> of bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.
> 
> I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
> last place you want a line blockage.
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
>> recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
>> switch to the transom. 
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> S/V Fury 
>> C 44
>> Portland Or 
>> 
>> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
>> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
>> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
>> 
>> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
>> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
>> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
>> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
>> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
>> 
>> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
>> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
>> this, aka Rule themself).
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> 
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine, 33 mkII
>> new-Richmond, Qc
>> Canada
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
> 
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

You can rerun the hose to acheive this, but it depends of your layout.

Rule now make a pump with an intergrated switch and check valve. It seems they 
were against the check valve because of the possibility to get an air lock. It 
is certanly an added restricion, but a line blockage risk, i doubt it. I clean 
it every year, keep my bilge clean and the pump works often to pump water 
coming from the mast. i prefer the check valve to a cycling pump and more water 
in my bilge. It's a choice of compromise.

Bruno.


De : CnC-List  de la part de Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 15 janvier 2019 12:47
À : Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Cc : Robert Boyer
Objet : Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount of 
bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.

I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
last place you want a line blockage.

Bob

On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
switch to the transom.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there that 
would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump is a 
bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? What about 
auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water witch" 
switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against this, aka 
Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount of 
bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.

I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
last place you want a line blockage.

Bob

> On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
> recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
> switch to the transom. 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually
recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump
and switch to the transom.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some
> people here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main",
> often turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the
> bilge.
>
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main"
> electric pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500
> out there that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line
> but the pump is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be
> a choice ? What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
>
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against
> this, aka Rule themself).
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Bilge pump

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there that 
would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump is a 
bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? What about 
auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water witch" 
switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against this, aka 
Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I like it. Hey, wait a minute I'm in that list somewhere. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Stu via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/25/18  08:50  (GMT-08:00) To: C Email List 
 Cc: Stu  Subject: Stus-List 
Bilge pump humor 



How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump
 
1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been
changed.
 
14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge
pump could have been changed differently.
 
7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.
 
6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...
 
Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.
 
2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is
"pump".
 
15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump"
is perfectly correct.
 
19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this
discussion to a bilge pump list.
 
11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.
 
36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy
the best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and
what brands are faulty.
 
5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.
 
15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.
 
7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.
 
4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the
corrected URL's.
 
13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".
 
5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot
handle the bilge pump controversy.
 
4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"
 
13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge
pump".
 
1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.
 
1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start
it all over again.  




Virus-free. www.avg.com


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Somebody has a sense of humor and WAY too much time on their hands

Neil 1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: 30471605600n behalf of
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 5:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

Geeze Stu, are we really that bad?!   ;^)

Just remember, probably 90 % of are old fuddy-Duds!
What was this discussion about again . . . ?

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:51 AM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge pump 
could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump" is 
perfectly correct.

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this 
discussion to a bilge pump list.

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and 
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy the 
best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and what 
brands are faulty.

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected 
URL's.

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all 
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle 
the bilge pump controversy.

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge pump".

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it 
all over again.

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>

Virus-free. 
www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Geeze Stu, are we really that bad?!   ;^)

 

Just remember, probably 90 % of are old fuddy-Duds! 

What was this discussion about again . . . ?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:51 AM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

 

How many email listers does it take...

To change a bilge pump

 

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

 

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge
pump could have been changed differently.

 

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

 

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

 

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

 

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

 

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump"
is perfectly correct.

 

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this
discussion to a bilge pump list.

 

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

 

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy
the best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique
and what brands are faulty.

 

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

 

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

 

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

 

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected
URL's.

 

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

 

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot
handle the bilge pump controversy.

 

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

 

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge
pump".

 

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

 

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start
it all over again.  

 


 
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_cam
paign=sig-email_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free.
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_cam
paign=sig-email_content=emailclient> www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Stu — so does this mean the website is still down, and you’re frustrated?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 25, 2018, at 10:50 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> How many email listers does it take...
> To change a bilge pump
>  
> 1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.
>  
> 14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge 
> pump could have been changed differently...
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Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Stu via CnC-List]

How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge pump 
could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump" is 
perfectly correct.

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this 
discussion to a bilge pump list.

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and 
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy the 
best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and what 
brands are faulty.

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected 
URL's.

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all 
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle 
the bilge pump controversy.

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge pump".

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it 
all over again.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 On my 33 MK II, there was an exit for the head shower sump about a foot 
forward of the bulkhead. I put the outflow for a new electric bilge about 6" 
forward of that.
John on EnterpriseC MK IIKomoka Ontario
On Saturday, December 30, 2017, 10:36:18 AM EST, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv1622382325 #yiv1622382325 -- _filtered #yiv1622382325 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 
4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1622382325 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 
4 3 2 4;}#yiv1622382325 #yiv1622382325 p.yiv1622382325MsoNormal, #yiv1622382325 
li.yiv1622382325MsoNormal, #yiv1622382325 div.yiv1622382325MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv1622382325 a:link, 
#yiv1622382325 span.yiv1622382325MsoHyperlink 
{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1622382325 a:visited, 
#yiv1622382325 span.yiv1622382325MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1622382325 
p.yiv1622382325msonormal0, #yiv1622382325 li.yiv1622382325msonormal0, 
#yiv1622382325 div.yiv1622382325msonormal0 
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv1622382325 
span.yiv1622382325EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;}#yiv1622382325 
span.yiv1622382325EmailStyle19 {color:windowtext;}#yiv1622382325 
.yiv1622382325MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv1622382325 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1622382325 div.yiv1622382325WordSection1 
{}#yiv1622382325 
My whale bilge pump exits about two feet forward of the transom on the port 
side, just under the toe rail. I ran my electric version to the same place, 
just underneath the manual one.

Gary

#593

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A. 
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 12:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore <sdem...@computer.org>
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

  

Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I 
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge pump 
connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting the head 
back together and will need that vent, but I can’t figure out where the bilge 
pump would connected to a thruhull.

  

Thanks,

Steve

  

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

  
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My whale bilge pump exits about two feet forward of the transom on the port
side, just under the toe rail. I ran my electric version to the same place,
just underneath the manual one.

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A.
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 12:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore <sdem...@computer.org>
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

 

Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge
pump connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting
the head back together and will need that vent, but I can't figure out where
the bilge pump would connected to a thruhull.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ditto with the electric bilge pump on my 38 mk1, starboard side about a foot or 
two forward of the transom and about 6” below the toe rail. Pretty good 
location that is never going to be under water unless the boat is completely 
capsized (so no siphoning back to the bilge. Only drawback is the length of the 
hose run.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

 

Our 1977 C 27 MK III was set the same way, with the outlet being up near the 
toe rail on the starboard side at the stern.

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Our 1977 C 27 MK III was set the same way, with the outlet being up near the 
toe rail on the starboard side at the stern.


Sent from Samsung tablet.



 




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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[T power via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,


My bilge pump exit is upper starboard side of the transom, I'm sure it is 
original as the boat only had one previous owner before me.


Cheers



Tom Power<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Steven A. Demore 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 1:39:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location


Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I 
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge pump 
connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting the head 
back together and will need that vent, but I can’t figure out where the bilge 
pump would connected to a thruhull.



Thanks,

Steve



SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD


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Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge
pump connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting
the head back together and will need that vent, but I can't figure out where
the bilge pump would connected to a thruhull.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Chris,

A few things. First, I've never seen a switch in the negative battery leads.  
Not sure what that's all about but as long as it's set to ALL, it's probably 
not hurting anything.  

Second, you might try checking the battery charger fuses. The Truecharge has 
two 15 amp fuses under the wiring compartment plate, one for each battery.

Third, I'm guessing your battery is shot.  The date code on your batteries 
shows that your battery #1 is dated Feb 2008 and your battery #2 is dated April 
2009.  If either of them still holds a charge, you are still living on borrowed 
time.  Nine years is a very long life for flooded cels in a marine environment. 
If I were you, I'd replace them both and consider upgrading to sealed AGMs, if 
nothing else, for peace of mind.  My luck has always been that starting 
batteries only fail when it's blowing 35 knots and I'd like to get back to port!

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C 40 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL


Sent from my iPad

> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 22:44:42 -0700
> From: Chris Hobson <ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)
> Message-ID: <389cf2d4-39b5-48c6-a2dd-99a86086a...@hobsonbuildsco.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
> helpful advice really appreciate it. I?m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
> electrical and figured I?d post a few photos because maybe something is 
> glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 
> 
> I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
> terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
> common it is to have two main battery switches like this.
> 
> Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
> the other night from too much vino, it?s still dead and hasn?t recharged even 
> though I?m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to 
> my True-charge battery charger.
> 
> Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
> test, or try to find if there?s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
> surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it?s a badly hardwired autopilot 
> and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don?t know enough about bad 
> wiring. So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing
> 
> Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.
> 
> Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
> negative terminals.
> 
> Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
> Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.
> 
> Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.
> 
> Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
> under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
> Cabin for battery switch #1.
> 
> The way I see it I have three options:
> 
> A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he?s booked till 
> September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
> B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it 
> out
> C: Keep digging
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> C 30-1 #615
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chris,

In 15+ years of doing electrical on many different boats, I have never seen
a switch on the negative wires.  My inclination would be to replace it with
a Blue Sea Power Post or Power Post Plus.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 12:44 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery
> terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how
> common it is to have two main battery switches like this.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

If there has been a problem with AC leakage from other boats then completely 
disconnecting
all grounds might help. No idea, just guessing. The battery charger would need 
to be connected
directly to the battery(s), which looks like it is from the pictures.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 07:35:58 + (UTC) 
From: RANDY  
 
Scratching my head. Presumably the point of the second battery switch is to 
switch some circuit(s) open or closed. But to me it's weird. I'd generally 
expect the switching to be on the hot side of the circuits, and all grounding 
to be (unswitched) to the engine block and therefore the prop shaft. (Not that 
I'm all that experienced with boat electrical systems). Where does the black 
cable off the "common" stud of that second battery switch run to?  
 
Regarding the #1 battery, an easy test to isolate battery fault versus other 
faults would be to connect it to a known good charger (only). If it won't 
charge up or hold a charge, it's the battery.  
 
Cheers,  
Randy  
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Scratching my head. Presumably the point of the second battery switch is to 
switch some circuit(s) open or closed. But to me it's weird. I'd generally 
expect the switching to be on the hot side of the circuits, and all grounding 
to be (unswitched) to the engine block and therefore the prop shaft. (Not that 
I'm all that experienced with boat electrical systems). Where does the black 
cable off the "common" stud of that second battery switch run to? 

Regarding the #1 battery, an easy test to isolate battery fault versus other 
faults would be to connect it to a known good charger (only). If it won't 
charge up or hold a charge, it's the battery. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Chris Hobson" <ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com> 
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:44:42 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...) 


Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this. 

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger. 

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup: 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing 

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open. 

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals. 

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1. 

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries. 

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1. 

The way I see it I have three options: 

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work 
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out 
C: Keep digging 

Chris Hobson 
S/V Going 
C 30-1 #615 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

All I can say is OMG. and I thought my new boat was bad with all the wires that 
go nowhere. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 7/31/17  22:44  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson <ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com> Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...) 

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C 30-1 #615
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C 30-1 #615
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Thanks. I did get the list as well.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of O'Keeffe 
Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: O'Keeffe Thomas <thosokee...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

 

Sorry my parts list didn't come through on my reply.  

 

I bought a Flojet 4125 series bilge pump corrosion resistant model (Defender 
#500662) and Water Witch switch.

 

Tom 

 

C 29-2 Bridie Mae

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

Sorry my parts list didn't come through on my reply.  

I bought a Flojet 4125 series bilge pump corrosion resistant model (Defender 
#500662) and Water Witch switch.
Tom 

C 29-2 Bridie Mae
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

This is what I bought from Defender but haven't gotten to install any of it yet.
I hadn't considered (was not aware of) the run-dry impeller type pumps.
Tom 
Bridie MaeC 29-2






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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Tom, which pump did you buy? I am in the same situation as you and Michael 
Brown – little room for a pump (30-1). Water collects down there and helps 
soften the mast step, which is not good. I managed to get a small Rule pump in 
the sump when the mast was out - which is working OK (with a check valve in the 
area immediately aft of the mast). But…. I think the pump has broken loose from 
its mount and is not emptying the sump completely.

 

So, I want to supplement what I have with a self-priming one I can put under 
the dinette seat and keep the area dry.

 

The Wale Gulper 320 looks good, but I was wondering if there are others.

 

Thanks, Gary Nylander

Penniless 30 #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of O'Keeffe 
Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2017 4:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: O'Keeffe Thomas <thosokee...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

 

Bruce,

 

I searched without success for a pump to fit that space and decided to get a 
self-priming diaphragm pump instead.  The pump can be mounted in another 
location and the pickup hose will fit in front of the keel nut. 

 

Tom

 

C 29-2 

Bridie Mae

Little Neck Bay, NY

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

When I purchased Touche', it had an impeller style pump in the settee
locker near the sump with a suction hose lead down into the sump.  I
removed it and installed a more traditional in-sump centrifugal pump.

I often question why I did that.  Sometimes think about going back to the
impeller style pump as long as the intake has a good screen.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 11, 2017 at 3:13 PM, O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> I searched without success for a pump to fit that space and decided to get
> a self-priming diaphragm pump instead.  The pump can be mounted in another
> location and the pickup hose will fit in front of the keel nut.
>
> Tom
>
> C 29-2
> Bridie Mae
> Little Neck Bay, NY
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List]

Bruce,
I searched without success for a pump to fit that space and decided to get a 
self-priming diaphragm pump instead.  The pump can be mounted in another 
location and the pickup hose will fit in front of the keel nut. 

Tom
C 29-2 
Bridie MaeLittle Neck Bay, NY


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Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


The Rule 500 automatic bilge pump that came with my 1986 29-2 died.  Bought 
what I thought was an identical replacement (Rule-Mate Automatic Model 
RUL-RM500A).  The new pump is slightly larger than the original and won't fit 
on the floor of the bilge in the deepest forward part of the bilge because it 
catches the edge of the keel bolt.   The keel bolt is a couple inches high and 
it takes 2.5" of water depth for the pump to activate so there is always at 
least 4" of water sloshing around in the deepest part of the keel.

Any 29-2 owners have a recommendation for a pump that will fit the very 
confined space in front of the keel bolt?

Thanks.


Bruce

SV Gyrfalcon

1986 29-2

Kootenay Lake, BC
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Don't forget to carry a couple toilet wax rings in addition to the wooden
or pliable plugs.  :)

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've been holding on to it for a few weeks now.  

Josh
On Apr 14, 2016 9:59 PM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Only sailors tell these stories on themselves…
>
> John
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> While re-launching this year I accidentally left the depth transducer
> out.  It is a hole about 1.5 or 1.75 inches in diameter.  The bilge pump
> started almost immediately but since I was on deck I assumed that water had
> been trapped and was now draining into the bilge.  After about 30 seconds
> when the pump didn't shutoff I looked below to see a geyser.  I jumped down
> and grabbed one of the wooden plugs which had conveniently floated into
> easy reach.  Water was at the bottom of the floorboards!  I hoped up and
> asked the travel lift operator to lift the boat up.  Once the boat was
> clear of the water I unplugged the hole.  With the bilge pump running, and
> water free to run out, it still took about 5 minutes to drain.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 14, 2016 6:11 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
>> calculator, but I found
>> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
>>
>> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) =
>> 3750 gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after
>> accounting for efficiency losses.
>>
>> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000
>> gph total)
>>
>> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's
>> probably not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock
>> for 12+ hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a
>> small difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph...
>> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph).
>>
>> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So
>> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I
>> still need to plug it really friggin quickly.
>>
>> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty.
>> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make
>> a critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of
>> those things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is
>> better" approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell,
>> *broken* bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring,
>> etc).
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>>> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> Cc:
>>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>>>
>>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
>>> matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
>>> Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

While re-launching this year I accidentally left the depth transducer out.
It is a hole about 1.5 or 1.75 inches in diameter.  The bilge pump started
almost immediately but since I was on deck I assumed that water had been
trapped and was now draining into the bilge.  After about 30 seconds when
the pump didn't shutoff I looked below to see a geyser.  I jumped down and
grabbed one of the wooden plugs which had conveniently floated into easy
reach.  Water was at the bottom of the floorboards!  I hoped up and asked
the travel lift operator to lift the boat up.  Once the boat was clear of
the water I unplugged the hole.  With the bilge pump running, and water
free to run out, it still took about 5 minutes to drain.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 14, 2016 6:11 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
> calculator, but I found
> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
>
> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) =
> 3750 gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after
> accounting for efficiency losses.
>
> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000
> gph total)
>
> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's
> probably not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock
> for 12+ hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a
> small difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph...
> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph).
>
> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So
> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I
> still need to plug it really friggin quickly.
>
> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty.
> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a
> critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of
> those things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is
> better" approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell,
> *broken* bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring,
> etc).
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>>
>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
>> matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
>> Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Agree on the broken pump comment but...

The bigger pump does exactly what you said - buys time while you make a repair. 
 As you know it's not always as simple as sticking a nice tapered plug into a 
nice round hole.  This is especially true in the event of a collision (shipping 
container, etc) where the temporary repair may take a little more creativity, 
time ... and trial and error.   Obviously the further offshore the more of an 
issue this can become.

John

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 6:10 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a 
> calculator, but I found 
> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
> 
> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750 
> gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting for 
> efficiency losses. 
> 
> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000 gph 
> total)
> 
> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's probably 
> not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock for 12+ 
> hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a small 
> difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph... 
> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph). 
> 
> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So 
> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I 
> still need to plug it really friggin quickly. 
> 
> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty. 
> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a 
> critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of those 
> things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is better" 
> approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell, *broken* 
> bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring, etc). 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no matter 
>> what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.  Its 
>> gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

There is an article in the new Sail magazine. In it it says you would need
something like 3000 gph capacity if a large hose broke.

Joel

On Thursday, April 14, 2016, John Pennie via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Patrick
>
> Just to correct my earlier post - if you do go with a third pump, the pump
> itself doesn't have to be any higher.  Just the float switch for it.  Make
> it a hummer of a pump a give it a dedicated circuit.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 4:08 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Patrick:
>
> I don't think anything will keep the boat afloat if a 1-1/2" thru hull
> disintegrated.
>
> I do understand your concern but given the difficulty have you considered
> adding a third pump slightly higher as an emergency pump?  As you will be
> running new plumbing anywhere that is convenient you can make it as big as
> you like.
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
> capacity?
>
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
> 2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
> 3/4" to 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge
> hoses runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs
> through the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require
> enlarging some of the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole)
> probably, and of course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal
> more work than just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float
> switch + alarm.
>
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000.
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships.
>
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also
> heard it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge
> pumps - a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a
> 38' one will.
>
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from
> sinking at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less
> concerned with emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far
> offshore and I have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty,
> foam, wood bungs, carrots, etc).
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Patrick,

As others have said and that I can attest to, you will not save a boat with a 
1-1/2” hole in it with a few bilge pumps.

I just got back from working on the bilge pump upgrade to my boat. My goal is 
to have a small bilge pump to pull out the usual amount of water that ends up 
in the bilge. I am service the existing Whale Gusher 10 manual pump located at 
the helm. And I have added a Rule 2000 pump on a raised platform in the bilge 
for water evacuation that the small (650 GPH) pump cannot keep up with. The new 
Rule requires a new thru-hull which I will locate in the transom next to the 
existing thru-hull for the Whale Gusher 10. The small pump will exit per the 
C design, into a tee fitting in the starboard cockpit drain.

Recent pictures in the blog.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having 
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity? 
> 
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
> gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 
> 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses 
> runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through 
> the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of 
> the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of 
> course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than 
> just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 
> 
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm 
> 
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 
> 
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity 
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard 
> it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - 
> a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one 
> will.
> 
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking 
> at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
> emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I 
> have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood 
> bungs, carrots, etc). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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