[Elecraft] how do these moduler kits work?

[Shaun Oliver]

I'm curious, I've never had to deal with moduler kits before. waht's 
involved in putting them together? the most I've had to fiddle about 
with were solderless kits that required springs or screws to fit 
components together. for the teaching of the basics of electronics of 
course. I'm just curious.

shaun
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[Elecraft] The word!

[Peter ZL1PWD]

Hi all,

I have just had the word of the coming dispatch of my K3 in"7 to 10 days"

PTL and all that; YEESS 

I may have a project over the holiday season!!

BTW it was ordered May 2  

Cheers for now and 73

Peter  ZL1PWD
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[Elecraft] Choosing headset

[Nelson Wittstock]

I'm looking into buying a headset for the eventual arrival of my K3.  There 
is a regular ad in QST for an outfit in California that looks interesting. 
It is Warren Gregoire & Associates and I wonder if anyone in the group has 
any knowledge of how well this unit performs.  If the Heil headset is head 
and shoulders above this one I could wait and get it later but if this one 
would be adequate I'd consider it now.


Nelson, K8DJC 



--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 2542 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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Re: [Elecraft] CQ WW CW & a K3

[Vic K2VCO]

hank k8dd wrote:


Let's say I am listening to 1830.000 to a DX station.  VFO A
The DX station says QSX 1829 so I set VFO B to 1829.00
The RIT is on and is + 1 KHZ - so A reads 1830.100
Now I want to listen to the pile on the TX frequency, so I press REV.
Now my TX freq reads 1829.100 and my RX freq on the bottom reads 1830.00
I find where the last station worked is and release the REV button.  The
TX freq is going to be 100 Hz low!
Seems to me that the RIT should stay with the frequency and not the 
location of that frequency.
As I saw it this afternoon that could cause me to not be on the TX 
frequency where I want to be transmitting.


I'm assuming that you did have SPLIT on and that you meant that the RIT 
was set to +100 Hz, not +1 kHz.


You're right that the K3 thinks of RIT as part of VFO A. And note that, 
unlike some other rigs, you can't choose to receive on VFO B -- you 
always receive on A and you have a choice to transmit on A or B (of 
course, you can copy the frequency from B to A and then receive on it; 
but you are still using VFO A to receive.


What you did is a funny scenario, since if you were using split, you 
would tune the DX station with VFO A and not use RIT. RIT would not help 
 in this situation.


If the RIT "stayed with the frequency" then when you pressed REV, A 
would read 1829 and B would be 1830.1. This is probably harmless with 
REV, since you wouldn't operate the RIT while holding it. But suppose 
you did A/B. Then what would happen when you clear the RIT? Should B go 
back to 1830? Should A go to 1828.9? Should A/B work differently in this 
respect than REV?

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
K3 no. 7
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[Elecraft] Requested pictures: K3 & K2 (plus K1 and KX1)

[Craig Rairdin]

Second attempt to send this... I waited an hour and didn't see it come
through. Sorry if you get two copies:


I spent some time shooting a few pictures of my Elecraft gear this afternoon
for people who wanted some size comparisions. There are front, side, and
rear shots of the K2 and K3 and some "family" pictures with the whole gang.

The pictures are here:
http://www.craigr.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=71

Click on the little pictures to see bigger ones, then click on the bigger
ones to see full-size ones. The full-size images have sufficient resolution
to read all the labels.

If you click on the "2007" in the navigation line at the top of the page
(Home > Ham Radio > 2007) you can also get to the page-by-page K3
construction pictures. Go up to the "Ham Radio" category and down into 2006
for page-by-page KX1 construction photos. Back to 2005 for K2 and KPA100
page-by-page construction photos.

Thanks to the interest in Elecraft gear, my "most viewed" images are now K3
photos, including 500 views of the white unopened shipping box sitting on
the floor of my office. This makes me feel a little better as there was a
while there where my daughter's prom pictures had the highest ranking, which
I assume is mostly internet perverts, not family and friends. Hey, I guess
maybe that includes some of you guys, too. Well, if so, welcome back and
check out the K3 pics this time. :-)

Craig
NZ0R

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[Elecraft] Re:KX-1 and 15M

[Dave G.]

Hi Bruce,

I was fortunate enough to be one of the KX-1 Beta testers. So I am well 
aware of the DDS clock limitations, and of the  two LPF's in the KX-1 with 
"knee's". just allowing 20M operation.

But my "nudge, nuidge, wink, wink" was directed - with my tongue firmly in 
my cheek- at the possibility (no matter how remote) of Elecraft, after the K3 
hiatus has settled down, considering a companion to the KX-1.
Perhaps a KX-2(?) with a similar form factor, power and options, covering 
20,17, 15 and 10 meters or better still 17,15,10 and 6 Meters..
8 bands with two rigs... one in each pocket, with most of our home-brew 
accessories capable of being used with both...

WIth the upswing in the Sunspot cycle the next decase will be fantastic for 
QRP operation..

Anyway I can dream, can't I???

On 25 Nov 2007 at 23:59, Bruce Beford wrote:

>>  The DDS is driven by a 50 MHz clock. This sets the maximum clean
>> output frequency at about 16.6 MHz. (Clk/3). There is also a 14 MHz
>> low-pass filter on the output of the DDS. 

-
Dave G, KK7SS
'65 MKIII Sprite, Richland, WA


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Re: [Elecraft] Heil mic question

[Lyle Johnson]

I have a Heil GM-4/5 "Goldline" desk mic and I have
an uneasy feeling that it doesn't have enough output
to adequately drive the K3.

Is anyone using this mic with a K3


I have a Goldline that I use with my K3.


that can confirm my suspicion?


I cannot confirm your suspicion, however, since my Goldline drives my K3 
quite nicely. :-)


73,

Lyle KK7P

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RE: [Elecraft] CQ WW CW & a K3

[AB7R]

Hank,

I did not see anywhere in your post that you put the K3 into SPLIT.  When
the DX said QSX down 1 you could have simply gone into split mode and tuned
VFO-B with the B knob to 1.829.  Then use your REV button to find the
current station working the DX and tune to that freq using VFO-A while still
holding REV.  Remember, VFO-A will be your RX freq and VFO-B your TX freq.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of hank k8dd
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:39 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] CQ WW CW & a K3


I just got home from CQ WW CW . a bunch of us got together at a
major station and we each picked a band and used our own calls.
10 M - no operator showed up and I don't think the band did either.
15 M - a brand new Omni VII
20 M - me and my K2/100 w/DSP
40 M - AC8W and my other K2/100
80 M - K8AQM and his K2/100
160 M - N8EA and a borrowed K3/100 with no serial number!
The K1/100 had the 2.7, 1.8 and 500 filters as I remember.

I got to sit in front of the K3 for a little over an hour and came away
with two observations . Well - three.
1.  Best damn receiver I've sat in front of!
2.  The small VFO knob had absolutely no drag.  I don't know if they are
all like that, or if the guy who built it didn't do something.  I don't
know his call or if I heard it I don't remember it.
3.  This is the long, hard to explain thing.
Let's say I am listening to 1830.000 to a DX station.  VFO A
The DX station says QSX 1829 so I set VFO B to 1829.00
The RIT is on and is + 1 KHZ - so A reads 1830.100
Now I want to listen to the pile on the TX frequency, so I press REV.
Now my TX freq reads 1829.100 and my RX freq on the bottom reads 1830.00
I find where the last station worked is and release the REV button.  The
TX freq is going to be 100 Hz low!
Seems to me that the RIT should stay with the frequency and not the
location of that frequency.
As I saw it this afternoon that could cause me to not be on the TX
frequency where I want to be transmitting.

But, like I said in Nr 1 - best receiver I've ever used.

72  73HankK8DD
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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4:24 PM

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RE: [Elecraft] Heil mic question

[Ed Muns]

> I have a Heil GM-4/5 "Goldline" desk mic and I have an uneasy 
> feeling that it doesn't have enough output to adequately drive the K3.
> 
> Is anyone using this mic with a K3 that can confirm my suspicion?

There should be plenty of mic gain.  I believe WK6I is using a Goldline with
his K3.  If you need more mic gain, use the 'H' range.

73,
Ed - W0YK

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[Elecraft] Heil mic question

[Ken Kopp]

I have made an adapter cable for connecting my
several ICOM mics to my K3 and they all work well.

I have a Heil GM-4/5 "Goldline" desk mic and I have
an uneasy feeling that it doesn't have enough output
to adequately drive the K3.

Is anyone using this mic with a K3 that can confirm 
my suspicion?


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Dick Dievendorff]

Please don't rename firmware files.  There's a consistency check that
compares the internal version number and the version number implied by the
filename that will be disrupted if you rename the files.  Firmware load
verification will fail if you do this.

Instead, clear the "Copy Latest Files from Elecraft" check box, create a
folder with the files you want to load, navigate to that folder, and that is
the "available" version column. 

You can load back-level files by using the View Menu's Advanced Option to
expose a column of per-processor check boxes.  Select the MCU and DSP1 check
boxes and click "Send Checked Items" button.

Be careful which files you load together.  MCU and DSP1 versions are
sometimes released together with interdependencies.  Their version numbers
do not show that dependency. Thus, MCU 01.39 does not necessarily correspond
to DSP 01.39.

In general, you should be moving forward, and the options to go backward
were deemphasized in an attempt to make it as straightforward as possible to
go forward to newer (and presumably better) firmware revisions.  

73 de Dick, K6KR




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Norff
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:10 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader,
Version 1.0.11.21

Hi Ed,

I did it with a file rename...
The Software offers only the newest file to upload to the receiver.

Download all available files from the FTP site if you don't have them
already on your pc.
Restart the software and configure the 'advanced mode'  (view menu...).

After uploading the firmware you can just rename the file to its original
name.
The software will offer the newest version as before...

Didn't find any information about concernes to switch between the different
versions.
Especially the dependencies between the MCU and DSP versions is not clear.

Maybe Elecraft can give us some information ... ?


Thomas, DM7TN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed K1EP
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 1:23 AM
To: David Woolley; 'Elecraft List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware
Loader,Version 1.0.11.21

At 11/25/2007 07:51 AM, David Woolley wrote:
>Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>>File time stamps are not used.  Version numbers are implied from
filenames.
>
>wget will still work in that environment, although rsync probably 
>wouldn't be useful.
>
>Typically, though, what people do with ftp distribution sites under 
>those conditions is to have a link to the current version, as well as 
>the numbered versions.

The problem I have with the download utility is that it doesn't allow you to
revert to an older version of the firmware.  Maybe you can rename the file,
but then you probably will risk not being able to load a later version of
that name.  Does anyone know how to revert to a previous firmware load?

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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[michael taylor]

On Nov 25, 2007 3:20 PM, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My older home  built in 1962 by an individual for
> himself ... has only 2-wire Romex.  At least it's not
,,,
> It's a 2-story structure and it's virtually impossible to
> rewire to meet present-day electrical codes without
> tearing off the interior wallboard and starting over.
...

You can replace non-grounded receptacle with grounding-type (3 prong)
GFCI receptacle according to NEC as I understand it (I am NOT an
electrician). I believe the outlets should be labeled as "No Equipment
Ground."

-Michael, VE3TIX
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RE: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yes, GFI is a great safety factor. Perhaps it's made the three-wire safety
ground outlet obsolete? 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Wilburn
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:19 PM
To: elecraft
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution


Keep in mind, that it is expected that many of the items that you are
talking about, are being plugged into GFI outlets, which is everything
outside, in garage, in bathroom and kitchen.  Not justifying anything, just
making an observation.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


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Re: [Elecraft] Ripple in K2 xtal filter?

[Darrell Bellerive]

I took a slightly different approach. I set two of the filters for acceptable 
passband ripple and attenuation and let the bandwidth fall where it may. I 
did this for CW, but a similar approach would work for data.

Since the actual bandwidth and the indicated bandwidth of the variable filter 
can differ quite a bit, I did not see the point of picking an arbitrary value 
for the bandwidth. Rather I set the widest filter where the ripple started to 
look fairly flat and the narrowest filter where filter loss became more 
noticeable.

My filters are centred on 589 Hz which is the pitch of the sidetone when set 
to 580 Hz. My sidetone circuit has been modified considerably, and that may 
account for the 9 Hz difference between the setting and the measured result.

An audio spectrum analyzer and wideband noise source are required to see the 
passband of the filters.

So here's the result:
XFIL 1 - OP1
XFIL 2 - Widest bandwidth where ripple begins to look acceptable. This is 
subjective as to what you are willing to tolerate with respect to ripple. My 
filter ended up at 970 Hz bandwidth indicated and 512 Hz measured at the -6 
dB points
XFIL 3 - Set about half way between XFIL 2 and XFIL 4. Nice smooth passband 
and no attenuation. Indicated bandwidth was 600 Hz, with actual -6 dB 
bandwidth of 307 Hz.
XFIL 4 - Set at the point where the attenuation began to be quite noticeable. 
Indicated bandwidth of 200 Hz and actual measured bandwidth of 178 Hz.

Of course there will be a bit of variation in the actual bandwidth vs the 
indicated bandwidth between individual K2s due to component tolerances and 
construction differences.

73,
Darrell
VA7TO   K2 #5093




On Sunday 25 November 2007 17:03, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> There is a lot of ripple in the variable filter passband when it is set
> to a wide filter value.  Even with the ripple, the filter is quite
> usable on SSB voice, but for data modes, it does have its shortcomings.
>
> That is one good reason that I set up the RTTY filter set for use on
> data modes.  I typically set the FL1 position the same as SSB FL1 (with
> the OP1 SSB filter), but I set relatively narrow widths for RTTY FL2, 3
> and 4 - I like to use 1.00 for FL2, 0.70 for FL3 and 0.40 for FL4.  I
> center these filters at 1000 Hz (or 800 if the BFO range is not adequate).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Stephen Prior wrote:
> > Running spectrogram with random noise at the antenna (not much else on
> > 12m, four hours after dark!), I can see a distinct ripple in the passband
> > of all filter widths, in every mode.  Except, that the OP1 filter in the
> > ssb board gives a flat response in all modes. So it's something to do I
> > guess with the setup of the variable crystal filter. I am wondering how
> > far back I will need to go in the setting up of the K2 to find the
> > adjustment which will perhaps flatten the shape.
> >
> > Using spectrogram (latest) with the xtal filter in usb at 2.1kHz, there
> > is about 10dB between peak and trough of the ripple.  The peaks are
> > roughly 600Hz apart.  I'd never noticed this in casual listening, I doubt
> > that I could have done.  Most of the time I am on cw and the 700Hz filter
> > setting shows no obvious ripple anyway.  It does however certainly not
> > look right on the waterfall on psk31!

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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RE: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That's what I said, Don. Most commercial appliances depended upon
insulation. I had a commercially sold Meissner kit with a metal case that
was tied to one side of the mains, but that was rare by post WWII. Most
appliances of that day were insulated. 

For example the common AC/DC table radios of the day all had Bakelite cases
and knobs intended to insulate the user from possible harm. Even equipment
with a metal case, like my old Hallicrafter's S-38 receiver, had the hot
chassis carefully insulated from the metal cabinet using rubber grommets,
etc. 

And yes, some appliances leaked a bit of a-c, producing that "tickle". Like
I said, insulation practices are better today. 

I'm only noting that that design practices has returned. Few modern
appliances intended for use in the bath, kitchen, or outdoors are equipped
with a safety ground. 

And I agree, GFI protection has offered a huge improvement, but what is it's
effect? It makes the three-wire grounded outlet even less important! 

Ron 

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:44 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: 'Elecraft Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution


Ron,
On all of the modern 2 wire appliances that I have, there is no exposed 
metal - it is all plastic or otherwise insulated.
There was an appliance designation that is termed "Double Insulated" 
that used to be in common use. Double Insulated devices depend on the 
fact that you cannot touch any part the can connect ot the electrical 
circuits, even under fault conditions, and no 3rd ground wire is 
required for them.
The equipment of the 40s and 50s often used metal cases that were 
connected to nothing - until a fault occurred.  I used to have some of 
those old drills that produced quite a 'tickle' when operated outside or 
if slightly damp.  That was when I was much younger, and I sometimes 
wonder how I survived, but am glad I did.
73,
Don W3FPR

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Has anyone noticed how little that "safety ground" is used by 
> commercial products these days?
>
> Few, if any, household appliances such as vacuum cleaners or even 
> kitchen appliances use it now. They all have two-wire plugs. For 
> outdoor use I have a electric chain saw, and electric circular saw, an 
> electric weed-whacker, an electric lawn mower and an electric hedge 
> trimmer NONE of which use a 3-wire cord. They were all purchased in 
> the last five years.
>
> All of these devices revert to the standards of the 1940's and 50's, 
> relying on insulation without a "safety ground" tied to a metal 
> enclosure. The insulation is probably better than was used in the old 
> gear, but it's the same old design.
>
>   

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[Elecraft] K1-4 -- filter board resistance checks trouble

[Mark Lampert (KB3OKS)]

Hello all,

I've just finished constructing my K1-4 filter board, and I'm failing
three of the resistance checks which are all reading infinite
resistance on my DMM:

  OK -- P1 pin 1, P1 pin 2
  XX -- P1 pin 3, P1 pin 4
  OK -- P2 pin 2, P2 pin 4
  XX -- P3 pin 1, P3 pin 3
  XX -- P3 pin 8, P3 pin 6

... all others are OK, including all tests across U1. Meter looks ok
  and is reading 0.1 Ohms when probes are touched together.

  Thanks very much for your time,

  73,

  Mark, KB3OKS
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[Elecraft] CQ WW CW & a K3

[hank k8dd]

I just got home from CQ WW CW . a bunch of us got together at a 
major station and we each picked a band and used our own calls.

10 M - no operator showed up and I don't think the band did either.
15 M - a brand new Omni VII
20 M - me and my K2/100 w/DSP
40 M - AC8W and my other K2/100
80 M - K8AQM and his K2/100
160 M - N8EA and a borrowed K3/100 with no serial number!
The K1/100 had the 2.7, 1.8 and 500 filters as I remember.

I got to sit in front of the K3 for a little over an hour and came away 
with two observations . Well - three.

1.  Best damn receiver I've sat in front of!
2.  The small VFO knob had absolutely no drag.  I don't know if they are 
all like that, or if the guy who built it didn't do something.  I don't 
know his call or if I heard it I don't remember it.

3.  This is the long, hard to explain thing.
Let's say I am listening to 1830.000 to a DX station.  VFO A
The DX station says QSX 1829 so I set VFO B to 1829.00
The RIT is on and is + 1 KHZ - so A reads 1830.100
Now I want to listen to the pile on the TX frequency, so I press REV.
Now my TX freq reads 1829.100 and my RX freq on the bottom reads 1830.00
I find where the last station worked is and release the REV button.  The
TX freq is going to be 100 Hz low!
Seems to me that the RIT should stay with the frequency and not the 
location of that frequency.
As I saw it this afternoon that could cause me to not be on the TX 
frequency where I want to be transmitting.


But, like I said in Nr 1 - best receiver I've ever used.

72  73HankK8DD
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for November 26, 2007

[Kevin Rock]

Whew!  
   Conditions were bad on 20 meters but just plain poor on 40 meters.  There 
are a few ESP reports and then a few which appeared and then disappeared 
quickly.  Sorry if you tried and were not recognized but the band seemed very 
long on 20 m.  

   Looks like I have a slight reprieve on the inclement weather.  There will be 
no snow until Wednesday.  That will give me a chance to get outside and work on 
the woodpile.  A few hours of physical labor each day helps me think better 
when I am sitting at a computer.  I also get to watch something which I did not 
create; much more interesting.

The lists =>

 On 14051 kHz at z:
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
KS7D - Mike - FL - K2 - 4443

 On 7045 kHz at 0300z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
WD4LST - Pete - FL - K2 - 5813QNI #15!!
KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037
N7KRT - Jeff - NV - K2 - 5471
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K3 ?

   As I mentioned, there were a few disappearing stations.  If you made this 
list in error sorry about that I did what I could under poor conditions.  I am 
unsure of the proper method of improving propagation.  There must be some dance 
we can do to get the sun to reverse polarity and wake up again.  I am open for 
suggestions.

   Until next week stay well,
  73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class)


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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Ed Muns]

Go to the View menu and select Advanced.  That will enable the checkboxes.
Copy the older version firmware file you want to load into another folder
and point the loader there.  Then use the checkbox to select and load it.

73,
Ed - W0YK 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed K1EP
> Sent: Sunday, 25 November, 2007 17:03
> To: Rick Tavan N6XI
> Cc: Elecraft Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 
> Firmware Loader,Version 1.0.11.21
> 
> At 11/25/2007 07:50 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote:
> >Copy what you want into a temporary folder, point K3 Util at it and 
> >load into the K3 using check boxes.
> 
> I don't understand how you do this.  The latest firmware is 
> 1.42.  If I want to revert to 1.41, it tells me that my radio 
> has 1.42 and doesn't allow me to do anything.  There are no 
> check boxes.  If I rename the 1.41 file to 1.43 to fake it 
> out, then what happens when the actual 1.43 gets released?  
> Do I have to increment the number each time I want to load 
> another version?
> 
> >There has been discussion of doing version management with 
> K3 Util but 
> >it's not simple. Be patient on this one.
> >
> >/Rick N6XI
> >
> >On 11/25/07, Ed K1EP 
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >The problem I have with the download utility is that it 
> doesn't allow 
> >you to revert to an older version of the firmware.  Maybe you can 
> >rename the file, but then you probably will risk not being 
> able to load 
> >a later version of that name.  Does anyone know how to revert to a 
> >previous firmware load?
> >
> 
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> 

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[Elecraft] CQ WW CW and E$lecraft

[K8TB]

   I just got back from the qth of N8CC. Jeff has a contest grade 
station set up. Besides 2 or 3 HF towers, he has both an 80 and a 160 
1/4 wave vertical, along with 3 1350' long beverage antennas.


   He had a handful of hams over to operate single op/single band in 
the contest.


   On 20 m, there was K8DD, with a K2.
  780 q's, 135 countries, 33 zones, score 363,720

   On 40 m, there was AC8W, with a K2
   375 q's, 109 countries, 30 zones, score 129,687

   On 80 m, K8AQM, with a K2
   336 q's, 101 countries, 25 zones, score 115,668

   And on 160 meters:
   N8EA with my K3
   119 Q's, 56 countries, 18 zones, score 22,200


   It was an Elecraft room. The only problem was when I arrived one 
hour before the end of the contest, to pick up my K3. I think the phrase 
was "Over our dead bodies!"


   The different ops took turns listening to the K3. Jeff, N8CC likes 
160. With 80 acres, two full size 1/4 wave verticals for both 80 and 
160, and 3 beverages, yes, he likes 160. He told me that he thought at 
first the K3 was not hooked up to the antenna selector, until he 
starting tuning around. Something about "a really quiet receiver". He is 
totally impressed.


   K8AJ and I had to wait till 2359 Zulu, and then, reluctantly, I was 
allow to retrieve my K3. Within that room, there were 5 more ordered.


  Tom, K8TB   K3 # FB-53


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[Elecraft] K3 invoice

[g4zfe]

The invoices and shipping notifications are whizzing out the Elecraft door.

I ordered my K3 on May 1st and also received notification today that  
it will ship in the next 7 to 10 days.


After a long CQWW CW contest I am now feeling awake and happy with  
this news :-)


Thank you for the QSOs and now to check my logs to see how many K3s I worked!

73 de Rich, G4ZFE/9M2CNC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Legge
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 8:49 PM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 invoice

I just received an email and invoice from Lisa for the K3 kit  ordered
on
May 1.  Talk about an all out effort to ship our radios.  You can't ask
for
more.
Bill, NT1R and smiling

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Re: [Elecraft] Feeding with 300 OHM Twin Lead in basement ceiling

[Don Wilhelm]

Norm,

Keep the feedline away from conductors by 3 times the line spacing - 
more if you can.  You may be able to find TV standoffs for 300 ohm line.


An end fed Zepp antenna will work nicely if it is 1/2 wave long and the 
feedline is 1/4 wave (or any odd multiple).  If those conditions are not 
true, it is not a classic zepp antenna. 

Look at the popular J-pole antennas, they are nothing but a classic zepp 
antenna oriented vertically (the J part is the 1/4 wave transmission 
line - high impedance at the open end, and a low impedance at the 1/4 
wave point - so the bottom can be shorted with the 50 ohm point up a bit 
from the short)


73,
Don W3FPR

Norm Klieman wrote:

I am thinking of feeding an end fed zepp using 300
twin lead for mh K1. My shack is in my basement. How
careful do I need to be with the twin lead around
ceiling conduits, pipes and air vents? Is there a good
rule of thumb for how many inches I need to stay away
from these items or am I just overthinking here??
Thank for the feedback!  73's -- Norm  K9NK

  

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 invoice

[Sanger, Joseph]

As did I!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Legge
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 8:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 invoice

I just received an email and invoice from Lisa for the K3 kit  ordered
on 
May 1.  Talk about an all out effort to ship our radios.  You can't ask
for 
more.
Bill, NT1R and smiling 

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This email message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the 
intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is proprietary, 
confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any unauthorized 
review, use, disclosure, or distribution is prohibited. If you have received 
this email in error please notify the sender by return email and delete the 
original message. Please note, the recipient should check this email and any 
attachments for the presence of viruses. The organization accepts no liability 
for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email.
=
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[Elecraft] K3 invoice

[Bill Legge]

I just received an email and invoice from Lisa for the K3 kit  ordered on 
May 1.  Talk about an all out effort to ship our radios.  You can't ask for 
more.
Bill, NT1R and smiling 


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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Don Wilhelm]

Ron,
On all of the modern 2 wire appliances that I have, there is no exposed 
metal - it is all plastic or otherwise insulated.
There was an appliance designation that is termed "Double Insulated" 
that used to be in common use. Double Insulated devices depend on the 
fact that you cannot touch any part the can connect ot the electrical 
circuits, even under fault conditions, and no 3rd ground wire is 
required for them.
The equipment of the 40s and 50s often used metal cases that were 
connected to nothing - until a fault occurred.  I used to have some of 
those old drills that produced quite a 'tickle' when operated outside or 
if slightly damp.  That was when I was much younger, and I sometimes 
wonder how I survived, but am glad I did.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Has anyone noticed how little that "safety ground" is used by commercial
products these days? 


Few, if any, household appliances such as vacuum cleaners or even kitchen
appliances use it now. They all have two-wire plugs. For outdoor use I have
a electric chain saw, and electric circular saw, an electric weed-whacker,
an electric lawn mower and an electric hedge trimmer NONE of which use a
3-wire cord. They were all purchased in the last five years. 


All of these devices revert to the standards of the 1940's and 50's, relying
on insulation without a "safety ground" tied to a metal enclosure. The
insulation is probably better than was used in the old gear, but it's the
same old design. 

  

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[Elecraft] Power line grounding

[Ken Kopp]

In Canada it's not unusual to see rural distribution lines
that have only one conductor on the poles. They use 
"earth" for the other half  of the circuit, as in old US rural

phone lines.

Ken K0PP

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[Elecraft] Feeding with 300 OHM Twin Lead in basement ceiling

[Norm Klieman]

I am thinking of feeding an end fed zepp using 300
twin lead for mh K1. My shack is in my basement. How
careful do I need to be with the twin lead around
ceiling conduits, pipes and air vents? Is there a good
rule of thumb for how many inches I need to stay away
from these items or am I just overthinking here??
Thank for the feedback!  73's -- Norm  K9NK
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Lyle Johnson]

Especially the dependencies between the MCU and DSP versions is
not clear. Maybe Elecraft can give us some information ... ?


When we release new versions of K3 MCU or DSP firmware, if there is a 
corresponding update needed in the DSP or MCU, we will issue an update 
to that file at the same time.  The latest versions of all files in the 
ftp site will be compatible; at least, that is our goal!


We urge all K3 owners to use _only_ the latest versions of firmware. If 
a feature is removed, please understand that the removal is temporary, 
it was done reluctantly and for what we believe to be very good reasons.


Speaking personally, I don't recommend going backwards or trying to mix 
or match.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] Re: The results of your email commands

[Mark Lampert (KB3OKS)]

Hello all,

I've just finished constructing my K1-4 filter board, and I'm failing
three of the resistance checks which are all reading infinite
resistance on my DMM:

   OK -- P1 pin 1, P1 pin 2
   XX -- P1 pin 3, P1 pin 4
   OK -- P2 pin 2, P2 pin 4
   XX -- P3 pin 1, P3 pin 3
   XX -- P3 pin 8, P3 pin 6

... all others are OK, including all tests across U1. Meter looks ok
   and is reading 0.1 Ohms when probes are touched together.

   Thanks very much for your time,

   73,

   Mark, KB3OKS
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[David Wilburn]

Keep in mind, that it is expected that many of the items that you are
talking about, are being plugged into GFI outlets, which is everything
outside, in garage, in bathroom and kitchen.  Not justifying anything,
just making an observation.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2007-11-25 at 16:45 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Has anyone noticed how little that "safety ground" is used by commercial
> products these days? 
> 
> Few, if any, household appliances such as vacuum cleaners or even kitchen
> appliances use it now. They all have two-wire plugs. For outdoor use I have
> a electric chain saw, and electric circular saw, an electric weed-whacker,
> an electric lawn mower and an electric hedge trimmer NONE of which use a
> 3-wire cord. They were all purchased in the last five years. 
> 
> All of these devices revert to the standards of the 1940's and 50's, relying
> on insulation without a "safety ground" tied to a metal enclosure. The
> insulation is probably better than was used in the old gear, but it's the
> same old design. 
> 
> Most of these devices have a polarized plug. The wide spade on the US plug
> is the neutral or grounded side of the mains circuit. Presumably (I haven't
> opened any of them up) they are wired so that a likely short to the metal
> parts would be on that side of the mains. That's also how it was done in the
> 1940's and 50's. 
> 
> Sure, I check to make sure the safety ground is attached to my household
> outlets. It's astonishing how many outlets I've encountered over the years,
> even in new homes, have no ground connection to the third pin. And many more
> are wired backwards so if one puts a polarized plug in the outlet the wrong
> (hot) side of the mains goes to the normally grounded side. 
> 
> Frankly, I pay at least as much attention to the correct wiring of the mains
> plug to put neutral on the wide spade as I do about the ground lead being
> connected. 
> 
> A little three-light tester available at most hardware stores for a few
> dollars is well worth the investment.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Thomas Norff]

Hi Ed,

I did it with a file rename...
The Software offers only the newest file to upload to the receiver.

Download all available files from the FTP site if you don't have them
already on your pc.
Restart the software and configure the 'advanced mode'  (view menu...).

After uploading the firmware you can just rename the file to its original
name.
The software will offer the newest version as before...

Didn't find any information about concernes to switch between the different
versions.
Especially the dependencies between the MCU and DSP versions is not clear.

Maybe Elecraft can give us some information ... ?


Thomas, DM7TN


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ed K1EP
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 1:23 AM
To: David Woolley; 'Elecraft List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware
Loader,Version 1.0.11.21

At 11/25/2007 07:51 AM, David Woolley wrote:
>Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>>File time stamps are not used.  Version numbers are implied from
filenames.
>
>wget will still work in that environment, although rsync probably 
>wouldn't be useful.
>
>Typically, though, what people do with ftp distribution sites under 
>those conditions is to have a link to the current version, as well as 
>the numbered versions.

The problem I have with the download utility is that it doesn't allow you to
revert to an older version of the firmware.  Maybe you can rename the file,
but then you probably will risk not being able to load a later version of
that name.  Does anyone know how to revert to a previous firmware load?

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Brendan Minish]

On Sun, 2007-11-25 at 16:32 -0800, Lyle Johnson wrote:

> 
> The SDR-14 and SDR-IQ appear to be safe in this regard as the input goes 
> to a buffer amp and then directly to an A/D converter clocked at about 
> 65 MHz.

I have an SDR-14 and I have been playing around with it as a bandscope
for the k3. It's absolutely fantastic in this role, far more flexible
than the standard bandscope. 
When I finish reorganising the shack to put the K3 'centre stage' (I.e
put the IC-7800 back in its box and sell it!) the SDR14 will be
permanently attached to the K3 by a short length of Double screened
coax.
I am finding the combination of waterfall and scope fantastic, the only
issue is that the SDR-14 is not quite sensitive enough so see stuff that
can (just) be heard on the 6m band.
On HF, no problem the SDR-14 can see all the way down to the band
noise   

The SDR-14 also gives you a couple of extra demodulators and the ability
to record a chunk of spectrum for playing back later. 

73
Brendan


-- 
Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try
to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly
untrained, unqualified, expendable professional.

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Re: [Elecraft] Ripple in K2 xtal filter?

[Don Wilhelm]

Stephen,

There is a lot of ripple in the variable filter passband when it is set 
to a wide filter value.  Even with the ripple, the filter is quite 
usable on SSB voice, but for data modes, it does have its shortcomings.


That is one good reason that I set up the RTTY filter set for use on 
data modes.  I typically set the FL1 position the same as SSB FL1 (with 
the OP1 SSB filter), but I set relatively narrow widths for RTTY FL2, 3 
and 4 - I like to use 1.00 for FL2, 0.70 for FL3 and 0.40 for FL4.  I 
center these filters at 1000 Hz (or 800 if the BFO range is not adequate).


In use, you can first tune in the desired signal using the FL1 position, 
and then use the VFO to position that signal in the waterfall to 1000 
Hz.  You can operate with FL1 as long as no interfering signals come 
along - should an interfering signal occur, you can lock the transmit 
frequency in the software application and then use the XFIL button to 
narrow your receive passband down to a point where the interference is 
reduced.  Locking the transmit frequency is required because of slight 
differences in the BFO frequency as you shift between the filters - if 
you need to retune the receiver frequency (in the waterfall), it will 
not change the transmit frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

Stephen Prior wrote:

I didn't build my K2 (I wish had!), so I have limited experience of its
alignment.

Having finally got around to getting back on psk31, I have noticed a banding
effect in the waterfall - both with mixw on the pc and cocoamodem on the
mac.  Removing the audio feed from the K2 shows the usual digital artifacts
often observed with integrated soundcards in particular, but no evidence of
any ripple.  I'm using the inbuilt sound on a new Intel mac mini running
both Leopard and XP.  I don't believe the computer is to blame. Anyway, as
noted below, the OP1 filter shows none of this.

Running spectrogram with random noise at the antenna (not much else on 12m,
four hours after dark!), I can see a distinct ripple in the passband of all
filter widths, in every mode.  Except, that the OP1 filter in the ssb board
gives a flat response in all modes. So it's something to do I guess with the
setup of the variable crystal filter. I am wondering how far back I will
need to go in the setting up of the K2 to find the adjustment which will
perhaps flatten the shape.

Using spectrogram (latest) with the xtal filter in usb at 2.1kHz, there is
about 10dB between peak and trough of the ripple.  The peaks are roughly
600Hz apart.  I'd never noticed this in casual listening, I doubt that I
could have done.  Most of the time I am on cw and the 700Hz filter setting
shows no obvious ripple anyway.  It does however certainly not look right on
the waterfall on psk31!

I'd be grateful for any advice!

Thanks,

Stephen G4SJP



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Ed K1EP]

At 11/25/2007 07:50 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote:
Copy what you want into a temporary folder, point K3 Util at it and 
load into the K3 using check boxes.


I don't understand how you do this.  The latest firmware is 1.42.  If 
I want to revert to 1.41, it tells me that my radio has 1.42 and 
doesn't allow me to do anything.  There are no check boxes.  If I 
rename the 1.41 file to 1.43 to fake it out, then what happens when 
the actual 1.43 gets released?  Do I have to increment the number 
each time I want to load another version?


There has been discussion of doing version management with K3 Util 
but it's not simple. Be patient on this one.


/Rick N6XI

On 11/25/07, Ed K1EP <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


The problem I have with the download utility is that it doesn't allow
you to revert to an older version of the firmware.  Maybe you can
rename the file, but then you probably will risk not being able to
load a later version of that name.  Does anyone know how to revert to
a previous firmware load?



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[Elecraft] K3 - FB Desktop Image...

[Don Rasmussen]

Anyone running Windows, maybe like me waiting for your
K3, I have a killer desktop image K3.BMP from NZ0R's
side by side. email to wb8yqj at yahoo dot com - I
guess it's the next best thing to having one. ;-)


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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604]

This is from the web site quoted-  This is how how a house I used to own
was wired for the few (at the time) obligatory three-prong sockets.
I was told by the house inspector that this did meet code.

Drilling into the stud space from above or below (crawl space or
attic) does work.  I've rewired 3/4 of my current 100+ year old house
that way in the past ten years.  I had gas piping for lighting, knob
and tube, lead-covered two conductor, BX, conduit, and both two and
three wire Nomex (as well as a couple of runs of lamp cord) when I
started.  I've now got two runs of BX, a fair amount of conduit and
the rest is three (or 4) wire Nomex.  And it's all up to code for the
time it was done.

>What my plan is, is to run the conductor through the crawl space and
>drill into the stud space from below running the ground wire as one
>would run a new piece of romex. I beleive that this would be more cost
>effective than replacing the entire wiring system in the house and
>still meet the requirements of code. It would definitely be safer than
>leaving the house as it is. The house was wired in 1958 and must have
>been done by some one that wanted plenty of power as there are many
>more outlets on the walls than current code requires including the
>kitchen counter. I have not yet delved into the distribution of the
>circuits but the house has the original fused 200 amp distribution
>panel.

73, doug

   From: Dan KB6NU <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
   Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 19:17:32 -0500

   I did some Google searching and came up with the following:

   http://www.iccsafe.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi? 
   ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=001341

   I think it's going to be a pain no matter what you do, but running  
   the ground wire exterior to the building doesn't seem like a great  
   idea to me.

   73!

   Dan KB6NU
   --
   CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator
   Read my ham radio blog at http://www.kb6nu.com
   LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO!



   On Nov 25, 2007, at Nov 25, 3:20 PM, Ken Kopp wrote:
   > My older home  built in 1962 by an individual for himself ...  
   > has only 2-wire Romex.  At least it's not
   > single conductor "knob-and-tube wiring.  Nothing in the  
   > house ...water pump, water heater, forced-air heat blower, etc. is  
   > "three-wire". (;-(
   >
   > It's a 2-story structure and it's virtually impossible to rewire to  
   > meet present-day electrical codes without tearing off the interior  
   > wallboard and starting over.
   >
   > The only way I can see to fix the problem would be
   > to drill completely through the wall to the outside at every outlet  
   > and add the "green wire" on the outside of the building and return  
   > the resulting "buss" to the entrance panel's ground.  A decidedly  
   > "ugly" solution,
   > even if painted to match the exterior color and doesn't
   > solve the issue of outlets on interior walls.  I -have-
   > replaced all outlets with "3-wire" types to avoid the usual cut-off- 
   > the ground-pin from household appliance
   > plugs, but there's nothing connected to the round holes. (;-)
   >
   > Cutting groves in the wall board from each outlet down to the floor  
   > and hiding the ground buss under the kick-
   > board is possible but again, "ugly".  The walls have been painted  
   > of course and the kick-boards are stuck to the wall by paint.   
   > Removing the kick-boards would damage the wallboard and still  
   > require its replacement.
   >
   > There seems to be no realistic solution ...
   >
   > I built my shack, garage and shop onto the house and they -DO- meet  
   > all codes.  There is a dediacated breaker panel feeding this  
   > addition and there are 17 ground rods on 2 acres, all bonded  
   > together with #10 CU buss wire and tied to the RF and AC entrance  
   > ground.  Two-inch
   > CU strap runs inder the wall into the shack and along
   > the back of the desk with 1/4" brass bolts with wing-nuts
   > for each piece of equipment.
   >
   > I'm retired from an electric utility.
   >
   > 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
   > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   > or
   > [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Has anyone noticed how little that "safety ground" is used by commercial
products these days? 

Few, if any, household appliances such as vacuum cleaners or even kitchen
appliances use it now. They all have two-wire plugs. For outdoor use I have
a electric chain saw, and electric circular saw, an electric weed-whacker,
an electric lawn mower and an electric hedge trimmer NONE of which use a
3-wire cord. They were all purchased in the last five years. 

All of these devices revert to the standards of the 1940's and 50's, relying
on insulation without a "safety ground" tied to a metal enclosure. The
insulation is probably better than was used in the old gear, but it's the
same old design. 

Most of these devices have a polarized plug. The wide spade on the US plug
is the neutral or grounded side of the mains circuit. Presumably (I haven't
opened any of them up) they are wired so that a likely short to the metal
parts would be on that side of the mains. That's also how it was done in the
1940's and 50's. 

Sure, I check to make sure the safety ground is attached to my household
outlets. It's astonishing how many outlets I've encountered over the years,
even in new homes, have no ground connection to the third pin. And many more
are wired backwards so if one puts a polarized plug in the outlet the wrong
(hot) side of the mains goes to the normally grounded side. 

Frankly, I pay at least as much attention to the correct wiring of the mains
plug to put neutral on the wide spade as I do about the ground lead being
connected. 

A little three-light tester available at most hardware stores for a few
dollars is well worth the investment.

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Re Improving Station while waiting for the K3

[Lyle Johnson]

I don't know what I am going to do about digital modes yet.


1) Use a keyer paddle and the VFO B display.  This will give you CW, 
RTTY and soon PSK31.  PSK31 is presently receive only, but that will 
change soon :-)


2) The K3 includes an isolated soundcard interface.  All you need is a 
pair of 3.5mm shielded stereo cables between your PC soundcard in and 
out jacks, and the K3 LINE in and out jacks.  I have operated digital 
modes this way, using VOX for keying.


Or you can use the RS232 interface and key from DTR or RTS, if your 
chosen software prefers to do it that way.


3) I have also used a SignaLink USB interface with the K3, again using 
standard 3.5mm shielded stereo patch cables.


Enjoy!

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Lyle Johnson]

I think I have found a supplier for a 32.800 Mhz crystal, which would 
put the softrock at around 8200 and make it a more reasonable 15000hz 
offset.  I hope that this will still be far enough away from the 8215 IF 
to not cause any problems, while making the bandpass a little more 
symmetric.


Be _very_ careful to put a high reverse-isolation buffer between the K3 
I.F. output and any sort of mixer like the Softrock that leaks a lot of 
L.O. energy onto its input lines.  The buffer in the K3 is an impedance 
transformation device, not a reverse-isolation stage.  It assumes the 
attached device does not inject any appreciable energy back into the 
I.F. output tap, and certainly not any energy at the 8.215 MHz I.F.


A better approach when using a quadrature sampling detector (QSD, or 
Tayloe mixer) may be to mix the 8.215 MHz I.F. to a very different 
frequency, then use the Softrock at that I.F.


For example, use a high reverse-isolatin amplfier at 8.215 MHz to feed 
an H-mode mixer driven with an oscillator at 19.44 MHz.  This will 
result in an IF of 11.225 MHz where the Softrock can operate.  4x 11.225 
is 44.900 MHz.  19.44 MHz and 44.90 MHz are standard (currently in stock 
at Digikey) frequencies, and with careful construction and a reasonable 
reverse-isolation input amplifier, there is little danger of interfering 
with the K3.  I have not tried this, so use this information entirely at 
your own risk, YMMV, etc.


But, in any event, a high reverse-isolation amplifier is an absolute 
must if the device you are attaching to the K3 I.F. output has _any_ 
chance of leaking energy into the K3 anywhere near its I.F. Use good 
quality coax, keep RF out of the IF connector (the end of your 40 meter 
dipole 15 feet away from your radio, that sort of thing...).


The SDR-14 and SDR-IQ appear to be safe in this regard as the input goes 
to a buffer amp and then directly to an A/D converter clocked at about 
65 MHz.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Ed K1EP]

At 11/25/2007 07:51 AM, David Woolley wrote:

Dick Dievendorff wrote:

File time stamps are not used.  Version numbers are implied from filenames.


wget will still work in that environment, although rsync probably 
wouldn't be useful.


Typically, though, what people do with ftp distribution sites under 
those conditions is to have a link to the current version, as well 
as the numbered versions.


The problem I have with the download utility is that it doesn't allow 
you to revert to an older version of the firmware.  Maybe you can 
rename the file, but then you probably will risk not being able to 
load a later version of that name.  Does anyone know how to revert to 
a previous firmware load?


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[Elecraft] Re: KX-1 and 15M

[Bruce Beford]

Wink and nudge all you like. 15M for the KX1 is unlikely to ever happen,
IMO. The DDS is driven by a 50 MHz clock. This sets the maximum clean output
frequency at about 16.6 MHz. (Clk/3). There is also a 14 MHz low-pass filter
on the output of the DDS. So, to do 21 MHz would require a new master clock
(surface mount),  and new output filter for the DDS. Of course another
(switchable) LPF filter for the PA and new firmware... Many of us users
would be willing to make the mods, but I just don't see it as an Elecraft
priority for a retrofit. Perhaps a new (rev B) version could be made, but I
imagine it would be a trade-off. I doubt 5 band capability could be done
without a lot of redesign. Perhaps you could make a 40M to 15M transverter,
and put it in place of the ATU...

72,
Bruce N1RX
KX1, K1, K2 and (soon) K3 user.


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[Elecraft] K2/100 and TenTec Centurion amplifier

[Steve Jackson]

For the ham who wanted to know about hooking up his K2/100 to a TenTec QSK 
amplifier ...

I just did a 100 Q  S&P 'session' for CQWW CW, using The World's Most 
Experienced Elecraft (a.k.a. K2 #0771, now at 65k hours power-on and counting) 
and a TenTec Model 422 Centurion amplifier.  

(This is my usual configuration here, not new for this event.)  With the 
multipliers, my 100 Qs tally to 27,090 points, if you are wondering, and not 
all of the Qs were made QRO either.  With the sun so uncooperative, however, 
even serious mojo has its limits.

My K2/100 keying output connects via a single 3' RadioShack molded-connector, 
shielded RCA patch cord to the PTT/VOX connector on the amplifier.  The front 
switch is set to select that connection.

I experience no hot-keying -- and use full break in on the K2, or at least as 
fast as it'll go, and 30 WPM is not atypical.

FWIW ... the amplifier's occasionally odd input impedance is 'smoothed off' by 
the KAT100, located in between the rig and the amp.

Another 'trick' would be to have an external keyer connect to the 'key in' jack 
on the amp, and then have the 'key out' connection made to the key line on the 
rig, with the amp's switch set to 'QSK' mode.  Such a connection would only be 
useful for CW, of course.  My setup works for phone as well, no swapping wires.

I plan to use this TenTec amp with the K3 I will one day buy, and then upgrade 
the amp to the Elecraft solid state kW+ model when they become available, all 
pending available funds of course!

Steve KZ1X/4
owner of the World's Most ... well, you know ...


* * *
I've been on this reflector for over 8 years.

What happened to Nils, El Gringo Errante?  



  

Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Dan KB6NU]

I did some Google searching and came up with the following:

http://www.iccsafe.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi? 
ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=001341


I think it's going to be a pain no matter what you do, but running  
the ground wire exterior to the building doesn't seem like a great  
idea to me.


73!

Dan KB6NU
--
CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator
Read my ham radio blog at http://www.kb6nu.com
LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO!



On Nov 25, 2007, at Nov 25, 3:20 PM, Ken Kopp wrote:
My older home  built in 1962 by an individual for himself ...  
has only 2-wire Romex.  At least it's not
single conductor "knob-and-tube wiring.  Nothing in the  
house ...water pump, water heater, forced-air heat blower, etc. is  
"three-wire". (;-(


It's a 2-story structure and it's virtually impossible to rewire to  
meet present-day electrical codes without tearing off the interior  
wallboard and starting over.


The only way I can see to fix the problem would be
to drill completely through the wall to the outside at every outlet  
and add the "green wire" on the outside of the building and return  
the resulting "buss" to the entrance panel's ground.  A decidedly  
"ugly" solution,

even if painted to match the exterior color and doesn't
solve the issue of outlets on interior walls.  I -have-
replaced all outlets with "3-wire" types to avoid the usual cut-off- 
the ground-pin from household appliance

plugs, but there's nothing connected to the round holes. (;-)

Cutting groves in the wall board from each outlet down to the floor  
and hiding the ground buss under the kick-
board is possible but again, "ugly".  The walls have been painted  
of course and the kick-boards are stuck to the wall by paint.   
Removing the kick-boards would damage the wallboard and still  
require its replacement.


There seems to be no realistic solution ...

I built my shack, garage and shop onto the house and they -DO- meet  
all codes.  There is a dediacated breaker panel feeding this  
addition and there are 17 ground rods on 2 acres, all bonded  
together with #10 CU buss wire and tied to the RF and AC entrance  
ground.  Two-inch

CU strap runs inder the wall into the shack and along
the back of the desk with 1/4" brass bolts with wing-nuts
for each piece of equipment.

I'm retired from an electric utility.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] Re Improving Station while waiting for the K3

[Mike Scott]

For when my K3 arrives, I am building a 3-element 6-meter quad as this will
be a new band for me. I just finished fashioning the three spreader hubs
today out of 3/4 inch UHMW polyethelene. The spreader arms are 3/8 inch
fiberglass tubing from a kite making supply store. The 8-foot boom is 1-inch
square aluminum stock from Home Depot. I don't have a rotor yet but will
likely use a tv rotor or something from a swap meet.

I have also purchased a lowcost headset / boom mic from US Interface
http://www.usinterface.com/Headset.html It comes with a Kenwood 8-pin
adapter. I also have a cheap mic with DIN connector that I have put in a
base. I picked up the mic at Pacificon. I made up a cable for this mic. I
also created a push to talk switch to plug into the rear RCA jack. For this
I used a momentary on-off-on toggle switch.

I have stereo PC speakers that I might use, I haven't decided yet. They are
amplified. I might go for some higher quality bookshelf speakers.

I purchased a new Astron RM35 linear power supply (with volt and amp meters)
when I was at Pacificon for $145. This was the best price I have seen, and
no tax no shipping.

Longer range plans are to build two phased verticals on 40M, one is up
already. They might be used unphased on other bands. Purpose is to use these
with a horizontal doublet for polarization diversity reception on the second
rx when I order it.

Lastly I am building a remote parallel tuner to feed an 88' doublet for all
band operation. It is half done.

I don't know what I am going to do about digital modes yet.

Mike Scott-AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04/near LA)
QRP-ARCI #12326/ KX1 #1311/ Swan 350C





--
Hello all,

While waiting for my K3, I am making general improvements to my station. I
am in the process of building 20m and 6m Yagis and getting them installed.
I'm also working on getting a functional 160m vertical on the air. Also
checking out the other antennas before winter sets in too hard ( might be
too late in some areas) and getting the shack a little cleaned up. A KRC2 is
on the way to handle switching the antennas with some real nice coaxial
relays from Motorola MTR2000 stations.
Anyone else making improvements and preparations for the arrival of their K3
so it has the best conditions in which to live?

Josh K6ZRX
K2/100 # 6097



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007
4:24 PM

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Jerry Flanders]

John, please post info on the crystal when you have it. And if a 
quantity purchase gets a better price, there are probably several of 
us who might help get the order quantity up.


Jerry W4UK

At 06:50 PM 11/25/2007, John A. McCabe wrote:


I think I have found a supplier for a 32.800 Mhz crystal, which 
would put the softrock at around 8200 and make it a more reasonable 
15000hz offset.  I hope that this will still be far enough away from 
the 8215 IF to not cause any problems, while making the bandpass a 
little more symmetric.Someone else had mentioned the use of a 
HPL-4562 opto-coupler to provide more buffering for the softrock. I 
may order one and give it a try. If it works, a crystal even closer 
to the IF may work without causing problems. Of course, I won't be 
able to test any of this until my K3 arrives, hopefully in December 
as I am in the first batch.


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[John A. McCabe]

Thanks Scott for such a quick fix on this! While waiting on my K3 and I 
was working on the softrock IF Kit, and I noticed the problem when I was 
setting it up with the PowerSDR IF software.


I think I have found a supplier for a 32.800 Mhz crystal, which would 
put the softrock at around 8200 and make it a more reasonable 15000hz 
offset.  I hope that this will still be far enough away from the 8215 IF 
to not cause any problems, while making the bandpass a little more 
symmetric.Someone else had mentioned the use of a HPL-4562 opto-coupler 
to provide more buffering for the softrock. I may order one and give it 
a try. If it works, a crystal even closer to the IF may work without 
causing problems. Of course, I won't be able to test any of this until 
my K3 arrives, hopefully in December as I am in the first batch.


Thanks again for your work on this, I know that many, including myself, 
will enjoy using the features of PowerSDR with the K3,


73,

John KD8K



Scott McClements wrote:

On Nov 25, 2007 10:05 AM, John A. McCabe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

However, one possible problem
that I am seeing with the new version is that the IF frequency offset is
limited to a maximum of 2 Hz and I believe that that Softrock for K3
requires a 23000 Hz Offset (8215 K3 IF frequency minus 8192 the softrock
frequency).


John,

I never noticed that the crystal that comes with Softrock for the K3
was so far off. The 2Hz limit is just in the dialog validation
code, I just changed it to 96000Hz, and the DttSP code seems to have
no problem using a value more than 2Hz.  Thank you for pointing
that out. If someone needs this code right away I will build a special
patch - please only ask if you intend to use it very soon.

That crystal choice is not ideal, especially if someone can only use a
48Khz sampling rate. This means on the panadapter you will basically
only see 48Khz of band above the frequency you are tuned to. If you
are able to use a 96Khz sampling rate you will see 24Khz below and
73Khz above. I understand Tony, KB9YIG, only buys the readily
available crystal values to avoid the high cost of getting a custom
crystal frequency made.

-Scott, WU2X
http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html
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Re: WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! (was [Elecraft] ESD recommendation)

[David Woolley]

Don Wilhelm wrote:
residential AC power in the US -  All exposed metallic components of the 
electrical wiring system must be connected to the electrical safety 
ground.  There is an earth ground connection at the service entry point 
- which is to be the only direct ground point in the system (yes, that 
is also connected to the electrical neutral at that point - and at that 
point only).


If the earth is connected to neutral at the building entry, that sounds 
like the UK PME system, but with the variation that every house has a 
real earth electrode, not just the hams'.  The problem with it is that a 
neutral break can cause the return current to flow through the, 
relatively high resistance ground.


With the UK implementation, there are multiple earth electrodes, but not 
one per property.


The UK electrical codes require all exposed metalwork (piping, etc.), 
that isn't effectively insulated, to be bonded to the supply ground, not 
just the metalwork of the electrical system.  I think this is now 
required for all installations, but PME systems have more stringent 
requirements.  Although its not in my summary of the UK codes, the RSGB 
point out that external antennas can rise to significant voltages if the 
neutral supply is broken, and should be protected as though they were 
connected to the live supply.


When an additional earth ground is used (as many hams do when driving a 
ground rod for the shack, antennas, etc), that ground rod must also be 
connected (using heavy wire) to the entrance utility ground rod - in 
fact that connection is required to comply with the National Electrical 
Code.


Same in the UK.

The UK also uses a system in which the earth is run back to the 
substation and physically grounded there.  That's the older system, and 
possibly most common.


There is more about the implications of UK PME systems for amateur radio 
at 



In IEE terms, the PME system is TN-C-S.  The older system is TN-S. 
There is a rare configuation (TT), used for rural overhead supplies, 
where each house has its own earth electrode, but these are not 
connected to the neutral, which is only earthed at the sub-station.  For 
TT systems, RCDs are mandatory.


--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and 15M

[David Wilburn]

Not quite the same package, but you could aways build a K1 or K2.
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2007-11-25 at 17:25 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a 21 MHz option 
> for the KX1?  I emailed Elecraft some months ago and was told that 
> there are no plans to make the KX1 anything other than 20M-80M, but it 
> doesn't hurt to dream I suppose.
> 
> 73/72
> 
> Chris Blaase NV9Z/qrp  KX1 #1455
> 
> 
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
> http://mail.aol.com
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[Elecraft] Re: KX-1 and 15M

[Dave G.]

Nope you are *NOT* the only one...
I, too, can only sit and wish
and waitnudge, nudge, wink, wink!!

-
Dave G, KK7SS
'65 MKIII Sprite, Richland, WA
KX-1 #1913

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RE: [Elecraft] MicroHAM DB15-IC-8 cable

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Ken, 

> I've e-mailed MicroHAM ... three times ... asking if 
> I could exchange it for a K3 cable and offered to pay 
> a restocking fee, but have not even received a "no thank 
> you" reply.  (:-((

What e-mail address did you use?  I have received no inquiry 
from you although there is as yet no K3 cable and we have no 
procedure to sell used cables.  The appropriate addresses are: 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]  or
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]  

Specific hardware/software inquiries (support) should be 
addressed to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

73, 

   ... Joe Subich, W4TV 
   microHAM America 
   http://www.microHAM-USA.com 
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microHAM 
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 2:39 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] MicroHAM DB15-IC-8 cable
> 
> 
> Since I've sold my IC-756 PRO II to offset part of the 
> cost of my K3 I have a MicroHAM DB15-IC-8 (Icom)
> cable for sale or trade.  It's only been out of the box 
> to look at it and never connected.  It's cost was $153.25.
> 
> I've e-mailed MicroHAM ... three times ... asking if 
> I could exchange it for a K3 cable and offered to pay 
> a restocking fee, but have not even received a "no thank 
> you" reply.  (:-((
> 
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> or
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and 15M

[Mike B]

Absolutely.  I sold my primary HF rig (FT-857D) several months ago to raise cash
for the K3, and my only rig since then has been my KX1.  Handy rig, but I really
wish it would do 17 and/or 15 meters.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a 21 MHz option
> for the KX1? 
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[Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Scott McClements]

On Nov 25, 2007 10:05 AM, John A. McCabe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> However, one possible problem
> that I am seeing with the new version is that the IF frequency offset is
> limited to a maximum of 2 Hz and I believe that that Softrock for K3
> requires a 23000 Hz Offset (8215 K3 IF frequency minus 8192 the softrock
> frequency).
John,

I never noticed that the crystal that comes with Softrock for the K3
was so far off. The 2Hz limit is just in the dialog validation
code, I just changed it to 96000Hz, and the DttSP code seems to have
no problem using a value more than 2Hz.  Thank you for pointing
that out. If someone needs this code right away I will build a special
patch - please only ask if you intend to use it very soon.

That crystal choice is not ideal, especially if someone can only use a
48Khz sampling rate. This means on the panadapter you will basically
only see 48Khz of band above the frequency you are tuned to. If you
are able to use a 96Khz sampling rate you will see 24Khz below and
73Khz above. I understand Tony, KB9YIG, only buys the readily
available crystal values to avoid the high cost of getting a custom
crystal frequency made.

-Scott, WU2X
http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Improving the station while waiting for the K3

[Jay Schwisow]

Josh,

There has been basic shack reorganization and I am staying involved in 
the contests with the K2.  However, my big project was the construction 
of a 3 element 30 meter beam on a 34 foot boom. I used parts 
acquired from an estate and modeled it with Yagi W.  I  just finished 
the testing today (at 40 feet)  and the mono bander is 1.3 to 1 or less 
in the band.  A friend of mine and I  nick named it the "droopy 30" 
since the 600" reflector droops about 4 feet from center.


Next step is to complete the tower for this one.  This project, the 160m 
and 10m contest still in play while waiting for the K3.


Jay - KT5E

J. Heide wrote:

Hello all,

While waiting for my K3, I am making general improvements to my station. I am 
in the process of building 20m and 6m Yagis and getting them installed. I'm 
also working on getting a functional 160m vertical on the air. Also checking 
out the other antennas before winter sets in too hard ( might be too late in 
some areas) and getting the shack a little cleaned up. A KRC2 is on the way to 
handle switching the antennas with some real nice coaxial relays from Motorola 
MTR2000 stations.
Anyone else making improvements and preparations for the arrival of their K3 so 
it has the best conditions in which to live?

Josh K6ZRX
K2/100 # 6097
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[Elecraft] KX1 and 15M

[nv9z]

Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a 21 MHz option 
for the KX1?  I emailed Elecraft some months ago and was told that 
there are no plans to make the KX1 anything other than 20M-80M, but it 
doesn't hurt to dream I suppose.


73/72

Chris Blaase NV9Z/qrp  KX1 #1455


Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - 
http://mail.aol.com

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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ's December PB QRP QSL

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

Take a look at my new PB QSL Card that I'll send out to all who contact
me in December. Just click on my PB Page and then Roo Bear Ed's news to
view!

http://www.wa3wsj.homestead.com


72, Roo Bear Ed, WA3WSJ
PB # 2

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[Elecraft] Ripple in K2 xtal filter?

[Stephen Prior]

I didn't build my K2 (I wish had!), so I have limited experience of its
alignment.

Having finally got around to getting back on psk31, I have noticed a banding
effect in the waterfall - both with mixw on the pc and cocoamodem on the
mac.  Removing the audio feed from the K2 shows the usual digital artifacts
often observed with integrated soundcards in particular, but no evidence of
any ripple.  I'm using the inbuilt sound on a new Intel mac mini running
both Leopard and XP.  I don't believe the computer is to blame. Anyway, as
noted below, the OP1 filter shows none of this.

Running spectrogram with random noise at the antenna (not much else on 12m,
four hours after dark!), I can see a distinct ripple in the passband of all
filter widths, in every mode.  Except, that the OP1 filter in the ssb board
gives a flat response in all modes. So it's something to do I guess with the
setup of the variable crystal filter. I am wondering how far back I will
need to go in the setting up of the K2 to find the adjustment which will
perhaps flatten the shape.

Using spectrogram (latest) with the xtal filter in usb at 2.1kHz, there is
about 10dB between peak and trough of the ripple.  The peaks are roughly
600Hz apart.  I'd never noticed this in casual listening, I doubt that I
could have done.  Most of the time I am on cw and the 700Hz filter setting
shows no obvious ripple anyway.  It does however certainly not look right on
the waterfall on psk31!

I'd be grateful for any advice!

Thanks,

Stephen G4SJP



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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Mike B]

You might look into a product designed to run conduit on top of walls.  I've
seen it on concrete block & plaster walls commonly, but I think it would work in
your case, too.  One brand is Wiremold (I think), and Home Depot & Lowes carry
it.  I'm sure lots of other suppliers do too.

There are a variety of fittings & boxes, all designed to allow electrical
outlets & wire runs to be safely run on the interior "face" of a wall.

I haven't had the need to price it, but it may not be inexpensive.  If it's an
idea that works for you, you might do one room at a time.

Just an idea; didn't know if you had looked into this already or not.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2/100 to external Ten-Tec QSK amp

[Joe-aa4nn]

Ten-Tec Titan has on its back panel RCA jacks for
Key-in and Key-out.  For years I have run the
following configuration.
Output from my keyer goes into the Titan Ken-in.
Output from the Titan Key-out goes into K2 Key-in.

This keys the Titan first, getting it ready to transmit,
after which the keying line to the K2 is activated.

I have also used the PA Key out from K2 to a PTT
input on some amps, like Tokyo Hi-Power.  Works

de Joe, aa4nn

-Tec Centurion and Ten-Tec Centaur have two options for

inter-connection first is the single control T/R line but that won't
support QSK (at least I don't think so), they also support KEY IN and
KEY OUT lines for full QSK with Ten-Tec rigs (like my Orion or my
Pegasus) but I can't see how I would use those with the Elecraft. Anyone
out there using their K2/100 with a Ten-Tec QSK amp and if so how are
you connecting the two together?

73,

Jerry, KG6TT



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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[John D'Ausilio]

Hi Ken ..

You say "2-wire Romex" .. do you really mean metal-jacketed BX cable?
I just bought a '68 house and that's what's in here, and if that's
what you have you can return ground on the jacket of the cable.

de w1rt/john

On Nov 25, 2007 3:20 PM, Ken Kopp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My older home  built in 1962 by an individual for
> himself ... has only 2-wire Romex.  At least it's not
> single conductor "knob-and-tube wiring.  Nothing in
> the house ...water pump, water heater, forced-air
> heat blower, etc. is "three-wire". (;-(
>
> It's a 2-story structure and it's virtually impossible to
> rewire to meet present-day electrical codes without
> tearing off the interior wallboard and starting over.
>
> The only way I can see to fix the problem would be
> to drill completely through the wall to the outside
> at every outlet and add the "green wire" on the outside
> of the building and return the resulting "buss" to the
> entrance panel's ground.  A decidedly "ugly" solution,
> even if painted to match the exterior color and doesn't
> solve the issue of outlets on interior walls.  I -have-
> replaced all outlets with "3-wire" types to avoid the
> usual cut-off-the ground-pin from household appliance
> plugs, but there's nothing connected to the round
> holes. (;-)
>
> Cutting groves in the wall board from each outlet down
> to the floor and hiding the ground buss under the kick-
> board is possible but again, "ugly".  The walls have
> been painted of course and the kick-boards are stuck
> to the wall by paint.  Removing the kick-boards would
> damage the wallboard and still require its replacement.
>
> There seems to be no realistic solution ...
>
> I built my shack, garage and shop onto the house and
> they -DO- meet all codes.  There is a dediacated breaker
> panel feeding this addition and there are 17 ground rods
> on 2 acres, all bonded together with #10 CU buss wire
> and tied to the RF and AC entrance ground.  Two-inch
> CU strap runs inder the wall into the shack and along
> the back of the desk with 1/4" brass bolts with wing-nuts
> for each piece of equipment.
>
> I'm retired from an electric utility.
>
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> or
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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[Elecraft] Re: K2/100 to external Ten-Tec QSK amp

[TR, WB6TMY, K2 S/N 838]

Jerry,

I have an 811H with a QSK5 and I can tell you I get beautiful QSK by 
just connecting the T/R line out the back of my K2/100 to the 
QSK5.  I can't address ten tec equipment.


TR, WB6TMY

Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 02:20:39 -0800
From: Jerry Volpe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am a new Elecraft K2/100 owner. From the manual I can see a standard
T/R on the KP100 rear panel. My amplifiers are a QSK modified Alpha-76A
that I could directly connect to this T/R line, but my other
amplifiers...Ten-Tec Centurion and Ten-Tec Centaur have two options for
inter-connection first is the single control T/R line but that won't
support QSK (at least I don't think so), they also support KEY IN and
KEY OUT lines for full QSK with Ten-Tec rigs (like my Orion or my
Pegasus) but I can't see how I would use those with the Elecraft. Anyone
out there using their K2/100 with a Ten-Tec QSK amp and if so how are
you connecting the two together?

73,

Jerry, KG6TT


Tel: . . . 707-832-4304 


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[Elecraft] Much OT - No "practical" solution

[Ken Kopp]

My older home  built in 1962 by an individual for 
himself ... has only 2-wire Romex.  At least it's not
single conductor "knob-and-tube wiring.  Nothing in 
the house ...water pump, water heater, forced-air 
heat blower, etc. is "three-wire". (;-(


It's a 2-story structure and it's virtually impossible to 
rewire to meet present-day electrical codes without 
tearing off the interior wallboard and starting over.


The only way I can see to fix the problem would be
to drill completely through the wall to the outside 
at every outlet and add the "green wire" on the outside 
of the building and return the resulting "buss" to the 
entrance panel's ground.  A decidedly "ugly" solution,

even if painted to match the exterior color and doesn't
solve the issue of outlets on interior walls.  I -have-
replaced all outlets with "3-wire" types to avoid the 
usual cut-off-the ground-pin from household appliance
plugs, but there's nothing connected to the round 
holes. (;-)


Cutting groves in the wall board from each outlet down 
to the floor and hiding the ground buss under the kick-
board is possible but again, "ugly".  The walls have 
been painted of course and the kick-boards are stuck 
to the wall by paint.  Removing the kick-boards would 
damage the wallboard and still require its replacement.


There seems to be no realistic solution ...

I built my shack, garage and shop onto the house and 
they -DO- meet all codes.  There is a dediacated breaker 
panel feeding this addition and there are 17 ground rods 
on 2 acres, all bonded together with #10 CU buss wire 
and tied to the RF and AC entrance ground.  Two-inch

CU strap runs inder the wall into the shack and along
the back of the desk with 1/4" brass bolts with wing-nuts
for each piece of equipment.

I'm retired from an electric utility.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] microHAM cable - My Error!!

[Ken Kopp]

The $153.25 cost I noted was for the ENTIRE USB Interface II
package which included the cable.

The cable's still avaailable, though ... (:-))

Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?

[W4sc]

Five pole vs 8 pole filters ;; $120 - $79 = $41,,,I ordered 8 pole and got 
credit for the 5 pole.  However, you will need to call Aptos on the phone, 
sweet talk Lisa;; AND send her a DOZEN roses..

Good luck.
de W4SC K3  #, very patiently waiting

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" ; "Dave G4AON" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?






I now want the upgraded 2.8 8 pole SSB filter for the additional $41 !



It's true I'm blind as a bat, but where on the order page does it say you 
can upgrade from the standard 2.7 five pole to the 2.8 eight pole filter 
for $41? I was sorta wanting the 2.8 myself...but didn't know it only 
cost $41 more. Is this true?


Thanks,

John K7FD
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RE: [Elecraft] MicroKeyer, keyboards, digital modes (was: K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?)

[Craig Rairdin]

I've never been able to figure out how to send or receive RTTY or PSK with
or without the MicroKeyer. 

My normal contest mode is WriteLog talking to the K2 (or now the K3) through
the MicroKeyer with both a keyboard and paddle plugged into the MicroKeyer.
I can use the keyboard or paddle for unanticipated manual sending. The
keyboard works great for CW.

Craig

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 12:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?


Thanks for the info Craig.
My K3 will be here Wednesday and really looking forward to stand alone
digital modes.
It is my understanding that you just have to send CW from the K3 
and it converts it to either RTTY or PSK31 for the modes.
Since the Microkeyer will send RTTY or CW with just a keyboard plugged in
and it has memories
I wonder if you have plugged a PS2 keyboard into the Microkeyer 
and sent keyboard RTTY,CW  and PSK without the need for a soundcard/computer
hookup.  It sure will make a compact digital station.
   Mike  WA8EBM 
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[Elecraft] MicroHAM DB15-IC-8 cable

[Ken Kopp]

Since I've sold my IC-756 PRO II to offset part of the 
cost of my K3 I have a MicroHAM DB15-IC-8 (Icom)
cable for sale or trade.  It's only been out of the box 
to look at it and never connected.  It's cost was $153.25.


I've e-mailed MicroHAM ... three times ... asking if 
I could exchange it for a K3 cable and offered to pay 
a restocking fee, but have not even received a "no thank 
you" reply.  (:-((


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] External speakers

[Ken Kopp]

If you don't have extra computer speakers and have
to actually buy a pair I suggest looking in the CB isle 
of your local truck stop.  There are some good external 
speakers sold there.  Mine are Barjan 320-701's.


Truck stop CB departments often have items of interest 
to us like coax adapters, mobile mounts, pre-made coax 
jumpers, etc.


And of course, there's always Radio Scrap, but their
product lines are rapidly diminishing.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> I see you have the MicroKeyer hooked up.   I assume you 
> brewed your own connection cables since the website says they 
> are not available til Dec 1st.

K3 cables will not be available by December 1 (I'll update the 
web page later today) as they have not shipped from the factory
as expected.  The factory is still waiting on a production K3 
(via the DL/VP6D group - who have not received their K3s) for 

K2 cable sets (temporarily out of stock) should work with the 
following limitations: 

   1) no support for FSK 
   2) PTT, mic and AFSK audio is via the mic connector 
   3) the "AF Out" (J5) connection must be modified to 
  move the connection currently on the ring to the 
  sleeve. 

73, 

   ... Joe Subich, W4TV 
   microHAM America 
   http://www.microHAM-USA.com 
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microHAM 
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 8:33 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?
> 
> 
> Nice pics Craig.
> I see you have the MicroKeyer hooked up.   I assume you 
> brewed your own connection cables since the website says they 
> are not available til Dec 1st.   How does it work with the 
> radio?  Also notice you have a Heil Cable on the K3, wonder 
> what mic you are using and the results.
> Mike WA8EBM 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Improving the station while waiting for the K3

[Dick Roth KA1OZ]

Actually, I'm just getting back on track with my hobby after 30 years or 
so away from HF (haven't even been on 2m for many months!).  I've never 
had a shack in this house, so I'm starting from scratch.  Besides my K3 
order, I've been sending coupons to HRO for stuff including an Astron 
SS-30M supply.  I'm contemplating getting a GAP Challenger vertical and 
am still trying to figure out whether I'm planting it on the ground or 
flying it on the roof.  The new safety rules require substantial steps 
be taken to protect neighbors and their errant pets, so I'm looking for 
the best compromise amongst performance, safety, cost and effort.


The last time I had a shack, it was in a walk-in closet, with a dipole 
strung between our livingroom and bedroom.  This time, I've got to 
figure the best way to get cables into the house.


I'm talking back to basics here!!

Well, I've consumed more than my share of bandwidth.  Everyone have a 
terrific day.



J. Heide wrote:

Hello all,

{snip}


Anyone else making improvements and preparations for the arrival of their 

K3 so it has the best conditions in which to live?


Josh K6ZRX
K2/100 # 6097
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--
73,
Dick ka1oz

Calmly awaiting my K3 to bring me back on the air after 30 years.
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[Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?

[Mike]

Thanks for the info Craig.
My K3 will be here Wednesday and really looking forward to stand alone digital 
modes.
It is my understanding that you just have to send CW from the K3 
and it converts it to either RTTY or PSK31 for the modes.
Since the Microkeyer will send RTTY or CW with just a keyboard plugged in
and it has memories
I wonder if you have plugged a PS2 keyboard into the Microkeyer 
and sent keyboard RTTY,CW  and PSK without the need for a soundcard/computer
hookup.  It sure will make a compact digital station.
   Mike  WA8EBM
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[Elecraft] Improving the station while waiting for the K3

[J. Heide]

Hello all,

While waiting for my K3, I am making general improvements to my station. I am 
in the process of building 20m and 6m Yagis and getting them installed. I'm 
also working on getting a functional 160m vertical on the air. Also checking 
out the other antennas before winter sets in too hard ( might be too late in 
some areas) and getting the shack a little cleaned up. A KRC2 is on the way to 
handle switching the antennas with some real nice coaxial relays from Motorola 
MTR2000 stations.
Anyone else making improvements and preparations for the arrival of their K3 so 
it has the best conditions in which to live?

Josh K6ZRX
K2/100 # 6097
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[Elecraft] First K3 in Sweden

[Jan Erik Holm]

Look here:
http://sk3w.se/

73 Jim SM2EKM

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RE: WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! (was [Elecraft] ESD recommendation)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Very true David. "Earthing" to the mains ground is the proper way to do it.
If there's a separate ground rod for any reason, such as an RF ground, most
codes require that it be connected to the mains earth ground as well.

It's worth making sure the mains ground is connected too! I've encountered
an astonishing number of missing ground connections, both in older homes and
in new construction! Here in the US at least, one can buy a simple tester
that plugs into the outlet being checked. Three lights indicate whether the
outlet is properly wired and, if not, what's wrong. For the very small price
they require, they're an excellent investment for anyone. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Modern electrical installations, at least in the UK, and I think also in 
the US, often use a system called Protective Multiple Earthing.  With 
this all exposed metal work in a building should be connected together 
and to the mains ground wire, but will not be connected to the actual 
earth at the property boundary (it will be connected to mains neutral). 
  If you have this sort of installation, you must not connect anything 
to true earth unless you are prepared to assume that you are connecting 
it to mains live, as, in some fault conditions, the difference between 
the true earth and mains earth voltage can be the full supply voltage.

(Such installations also require special consideration with respect to 
antennas and functional (RF) earths.)


-- 
David Woolley

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Scott McClements]

John,

I never noticed that the crystal that comes with Softrock for the K3
was so far off. The 2Hz limit is just in the dialog validation
code, I just changed it to 96000Hz, and the DttSP code seems to have
no problem using a value more than 2Hz.  Thank you for pointing
that out. If someone needs this code right away I will build a special
patch - please only ask if you intend to use it very soon.

That crystal choice is not ideal, especially if someone can only use a
48Khz sampling rate. This means on the panadapter you will basically
only see 48Khz of band above the frequency you are tuned to. If you
are able to use a 96Khz sampling rate you will see 24Khz below and
73Khz above. I understand Tony, KB9YIG, only buys the readily
available crystal values to avoid the high cost of getting a custom
crystal frequency made.

-Scott, WU2X
http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html


On Nov 25, 2007 10:05 AM, John A. McCabe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> However, one possible problem
> that I am seeing with the new version is that the IF frequency offset is
> limited to a maximum of 2 Hz and I believe that that Softrock for K3
> requires a 23000 Hz Offset (8215 K3 IF frequency minus 8192 the softrock
> frequency).
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?

[John [K7SVV]]

I now want the upgraded 2.8 8 pole SSB filter for the additional $41 !



Interesting.   Where did you come across the $41 price?  I am replacing the 
2.7K with the 2.8K but they are charging me the full $120 for the 2.8K but 
they are giving me a $30 rebate for removing the 2.7K.


John   [K7SVV] 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?

[Craig Rairdin]

I have the K2 cables for the MicroKeyer. The only connection to the K3 right
now is the key. I want to end up with a complete K2 and K3 setup so I'll
either get another MicroKeyer and cables for the K3 or the MicroKeyer II. I
haven't examined the feature list to see what the newer model offers. I
don't really use many of the features of the MicroKeyer but it works with my
contest logging program (WriteLog) and it's easy to set up.

I have the Elecraft mic and as far as I know it works ok. I used it in SS
and didn't get any negative reports. I'm not much of a SSB op -- SS is about
the only time I hook up a mic. Plus my call is great for CW but is really
bad for phone (try saying November Zulu Zero Romeo really fast). :-)

Craig
NZ0R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?


Nice pics Craig.
I see you have the MicroKeyer hooked up.   I assume you brewed your own
connection cables since the website says they are not available til Dec 1st.
How does it work with the radio?  Also notice you have a Heil Cable on the
K3, wonder what mic you are using and the results.
Mike WA8EBM 
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[Elecraft] RE: K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo? - K3 and FT-1000MP?

[Brad Hedges]

Thanks for the photo Craig, but a more pressing question for me would be-

How about a photo of a K3 next to, or on top of, a Yaesu FT-1000MP?

A lot of contesters will be selling MPs, or at least making room next to one
on the bench for a K3 and I'd sure like to get a better feel for the
relative sizes, etc. I can block off six inches or so from my MP and an inch
off the top, but it's not the same.

Does anybody who has received their K3 also have an MP on the bench?

Thanks in advance and 73,

Bradley D. Hedges
AL4T
Sergeant First Class, Infantry
82d Airborne Division



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?

[wolfmanjack]

> 
> I now want the upgraded 2.8 8 pole SSB filter for the additional $41 !
> 

It's true I'm blind as a bat, but where on the order page does it say you can 
upgrade from the standard 2.7 five pole to the 2.8 eight pole filter for $41? I 
was sorta wanting the 2.8 myself...but didn't know it only cost $41 more. Is 
this true?

Thanks,

John K7FD
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 - what are your settings?

[Vic K2VCO]

johnny wrote:


Under the firmware 1.41, the NR is far better than the KDSP2 in K2.
What kinds of NR settings are you using?  I only use 'NR 0' and it
seems working well.


I have been using 0 also. It seems to work. Since the NR has been 
temporarily turned off, it may be improved when it returns.



BTW, when to use the IF Noise blanker and when to the DSP IF blanker?


I have never found the IF NB to be necessary -- the DSP blanker has done 
the job for me with all the noise I've encountered. The IF blanker works 
pre-selectivity, which makes it effective against very strong, very 
short, noise pulses. The downside is that it can be affected by strong 
signals outside of the passband. This does not happen to the DSP 
blanker. The only thing I've noticed is that at higher settings (I use 
T2-6 and T2-7 a lot), it makes CW signals sound like slow-starting 
crystal oscillators.



I am using a dynamic moving coil hand mic from Adzen, Japan.  The TX
EQ settings at  3.2K + 1db, 2.4K + 2db, the rest are 0db.  I get good
audio reports.  How about your settings?


I'm a CW guy, but I did some tests with knowledgeable SSB operators and 
ended up reducing the two lowest bands all the way (-16db each), the 
next one -6 db, and then increasing the top two by 4 db. This was with a 
Heil HC-5 element. I don't know if there was any output from the mic in 
the lowest ranges, but those frequencies aren't helpful, so I took them 
out just in case.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
K3 no. 7
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Re: [Elecraft] external speaker selection

[Vic K2VCO]

Ed Rodriguez wrote:

Has anyone found a good external speaker to compliment the K3?
any comments appreciated..


I'm using a pair of Sony amplified computer speakers. I preemptively 
wrapped the wires around ferrite toroids and haven't had any RF 
problems. Keep in mind that with the K3's AFX (audio effects) feature, 
you will want a pair of stereo speakers.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
K3 no. 7
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[Elecraft] KAT 2 Internal Tuner

[Bob DeHaney]

I have one, thanks to all who offered.

Vy 73; Bob WU5T/DJ0MBC

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 - what are your settings?

[Lyle Johnson]

I use NR = 6 (firmware 1.41), but I think it depends on the noise you 
are trying to reduce. It doesn't seem to change when adjusted until I 
reach the higher numbers.


The response at the lower settings isn't instant.  Set, pause, listen, 
set, pause listen...  At the higher values the attack time is much 
quicker (and the algorithm in general much more aggressive).


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Mac OS-X support

[Dick Roth KA1OZ]

Did I hear you say Linux??  My pet penguin just started jumping for joy! 
 I just hate having to break out the winderzs machine just for updates. 
 Great community...great work!!  I'd offer to beta test, but I just 
placed my order the other day and, well, you guys are way ahead of me.


David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

That is just brilliant - When I get my K3, I'll happily beta test


On 25/11/07 14:33, "David Fleming" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:


Hi Dale,

The OS X version is close to ready. Another week or
so. Linux version will follow.

David, W4SMT

--- dj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Being a hard core Mac user this would be very good
news and  
solidifies my interest in the K3.


Dale J.
K9VUJ


"There is an effort underway to port the K3 Utility
to Mac and Linux.

73 de Dick, K6KR"


{Snip}



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--
73,
Dick ka1oz

Calmly awaiting my K3 to bring me back on the air after 30 years.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 findings

[Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604]

N8LP has a SDR panadapter project in the works, and I've used my Z90
with the K3 with some success.

73, doug

   From: "Simon Brown (HB9DRV)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
   Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 10:04:11 +0100

   The quietness compliments have mainly come from CW and Data mode operators. 
   I know of a few IC-7800 owners who have sold the IC-7800 now that they have 
   the K3 (info received by private emails). I guess that being in VR2 (Hong 
   Kong) you do not have the most quiet background - here in the Swiss Alps at 
   10:03 AM my background noise on 40m is S1!

   A big advantage of the IC-7800 is the panadator, especially when monitoring 
   6m. Other advantages may be the 200W and internal PSU, but IMO the K3 wins 
   out in the other areas. If Elecraft doesn't produce a panadator then I'll 
   write a SDR console for the small SoftRock SDR receiver and use that, in 
   fact I would like to get into SDR console software in 2008 / 2009.

   Finally: I'm a receiver guy - I would like a R3/K3 combination similar to my 
   TR-7/R-7 combo of the late 1970's but this will not happen.

   Simon Brown, HB9DRV

   - Original Message - 
   From: johnny

   I don't quite agree to that at this moment especially to the 'quietness'.  I 
   usually operate in voice mode and will use some time to do an A/B 
   comparison.  I shall come back to the group in due course. 

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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Safety

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry and all,

There are a few soldering stations that have isolated tips (they also 
say they are ESD safe) that can be used when working on live circuits.  
The Solomon soldering station that I have is an isolated tip.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

Until retirement in 1993, I worked for 35 years soldering in the aerospace 
industry...In every soldering station and straight soldering iron I ever 
encountered that had a 3 prong AC connector, the soldering tip was connected 
directly to house ground...I have an old Weller WTCP, a Hakko 936, an old Pace, 
and several straight soldering irons with 3 prong plugs and they all have tips 
grounded directly to house ground...The Hakko 808 desoldering tool has a 
grounded tip...Most soldering handles and the wire for them are made of static 
dissipating plastic to help drain any charge on the operator's body...It would 
be next to impossible to use one of these tools and not accidently touch the 
chassis or ground plane with it at one time or another...Grounding the work mat 
and the wrist strap through a 1 meg resistor is normal, but not the soldering 
tip...Some mats have a ring on the end of the ground wire that you slip over 
the round ground prong on the AC plug before you plug the solde
 ring iron in...

  


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[Elecraft] ESD Safety

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

Until retirement in 1993, I worked for 35 years soldering in the aerospace 
industry...In every soldering station and straight soldering iron I ever 
encountered that had a 3 prong AC connector, the soldering tip was connected 
directly to house ground...I have an old Weller WTCP, a Hakko 936, an old Pace, 
and several straight soldering irons with 3 prong plugs and they all have tips 
grounded directly to house ground...The Hakko 808 desoldering tool has a 
grounded tip...Most soldering handles and the wire for them are made of static 
dissipating plastic to help drain any charge on the operator's body...It would 
be next to impossible to use one of these tools and not accidently touch the 
chassis or ground plane with it at one time or another...Grounding the work mat 
and the wrist strap through a 1 meg resistor is normal, but not the soldering 
tip...Some mats have a ring on the end of the ground wire that you slip over 
the round ground prong on the AC plug before you plug the solde
 ring iron in...

It is important to remove the tip and clean it up occasionally...Corrosion 
eventually leads to the tip becoming isolated from ground... 

Jerry, wa2dkg
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Re: [Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[John A. McCabe]

Benny,
I am seeing the new version v 0.91 on the web page here, and was able to 
download it. You may be getting a old cached page, you may want to try 
to refresh your browser. You can also try

http://www.wu2x.com/downloads/ .


I too also appreciate the work Scott is doing on this, and look forward 
to using it with my K3 when it arrives. However, one possible problem 
that I am seeing with the new version is that the IF frequency offset is 
limited to a maximum of 2 Hz and I believe that that Softrock for K3 
requires a 23000 Hz Offset (8215 K3 IF frequency minus 8192 the softrock 
frequency).  Perhaps this might  be fixed in the next  version, or a 
different  crystal could be used in the softrock so that it will have 
less of an offset, but still far enough away from the K3 IF center 
frequency so that it will not cause problems due to lack of buffering on 
the IF output.



73, John, KD8K


John, KD8K






Benny Aumala wrote:

Scott,
The only version available on that page seems to be old v0.90 from 
August.


I appreciate highly your work and there is much of interest after all 
those K3s roll out.

Benny OH9NB
_
original text:

I just posted up a new version of the PowerSDR/IF Stage software which
contains a bunch of bug fixes. See this website for more information
and downloading:

http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html

-Scott, WU2X


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?

[waltk8cv4612amos]

Everyone has there on operating modes and opinions for sure !!

I CONTEST therefore I am .. not a CQER but  a S&PER though 
:-)


Looking for a narrow and high skirted roofing filter ! My first choice was 
to just get the standard 2.7 and a 500 Hz 5 pole cw roofing filter.


I have changed my mind. Elecraft is not aware of this fact but they soon 
will be :-) Now I am sniffing at the 8 pole filters. I wish there were 300 
and 600 for cw but there AREN'T , so ...


I now want the upgraded 2.8 8 pole SSB filter for the additional $41 !

1.8 for narrow SSB and wide cw!

400 for cw normal.

250 for cw narrow in pile ups and contest dog / cat fights.

for now no SWL stuff or 6 KHz filters and definitely don't want FM :-)

No second receiver planned, no temperature compensated oscillator either 
unless the thing drifts all over the band, no ATU as I already have a few 
external ATU's around here.  But if you were going to use it at vacation 
homes or camping the internal ATU would be a welcome addition.


So, there's one hams opinion  he he ! FLAME SUIT ON !!

Walt K8CV Royal Oak, MI.


- Original Message - 
From: "Dave G4AON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:54 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 400 Hz vs. 250 Hz filters?


I wonder if anyone who has both these 8 pole filters would like to comment 
on whether the 250 Hz filter makes much difference? I have the 400 Hz one 
and it certainly makes a difference when the width control auto switches to 
that one from the 2.8 KHz filter.


Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80
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Re: [Elecraft] Mac OS-X support

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

That is just brilliant - When I get my K3, I'll happily beta test


On 25/11/07 14:33, "David Fleming" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Hi Dale,
> 
> The OS X version is close to ready. Another week or
> so. Linux version will follow.
> 
> David, W4SMT
> 
> --- dj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> Being a hard core Mac user this would be very good
>> news and  
>> solidifies my interest in the K3.
>> 
>> Dale J.
>> K9VUJ
>> 
>> 
>> "There is an effort underway to port the K3 Utility
>> to Mac and Linux.
>> 
>> 73 de Dick, K6KR"
>> 
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-- 
Don't look forward to the day you stop suffering, because when it
comes you'll know you're dead. -Tennessee Williams


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Re: [Elecraft] Mac OS-X support

[David Fleming]

Hi Dale,

The OS X version is close to ready. Another week or
so. Linux version will follow.

David, W4SMT

--- dj <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Being a hard core Mac user this would be very good
> news and  
> solidifies my interest in the K3.
> 
> Dale J.
> K9VUJ
> 
> 
> "There is an effort underway to port the K3 Utility
> to Mac and Linux.
> 
> 73 de Dick, K6KR"
> 
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Re: WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! (was [Elecraft] ESD recommendation)

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

Having to study the National Electrical Code prior to building and 
wiring my house,  I can talk a bit about the safety grounding for 
residential AC power in the US -  All exposed metallic components of the 
electrical wiring system must be connected to the electrical safety 
ground.  There is an earth ground connection at the service entry point 
- which is to be the only direct ground point in the system (yes, that 
is also connected to the electrical neutral at that point - and at that 
point only). 

When an additional earth ground is used (as many hams do when driving a 
ground rod for the shack, antennas, etc), that ground rod must also be 
connected (using heavy wire) to the entrance utility ground rod - in 
fact that connection is required to comply with the National Electrical 
Code.


Under fault conditions, the use of an earth ground that is *not* 
connected back to the service entry ground can produce dangerous 
voltages between the extra ground and parts of the electrical system.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Woolley wrote:
Modern electrical installations, at least in the UK, and I think also 
in the US, often use a system called Protective Multiple Earthing.  
With this all exposed metal work in a building should be connected 
together and to the mains ground wire, but will not be connected to 
the actual earth at the property boundary (it will be connected to 
mains neutral).  If you have this sort of installation, you must not 
connect anything to true earth unless you are prepared to assume that 
you are connecting it to mains live, as, in some fault conditions, the 
difference between the true earth and mains earth voltage can be the 
full supply voltage.


(Such installations also require special consideration with respect to 
antennas and functional (RF) earths.)




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[Elecraft] k3 - what are your settings?

[Dave G4AON]

Johnny

I use NR = 6 (firmware 1.41), but I think it depends on the noise you 
are trying to reduce. It doesn't seem to change when adjusted until I 
reach the higher numbers.
I've also played with the AGC settings in "tec mode", thinking it 
sounded better with changes to slope (AGC SLP) and threshold (AGC THR) 
but I've now gone back to the defaults.
Have you played with the audio effects (AFX)? On headphones it sounds 
really nice.


SSB transmit audio reports are good, I'm using a Kenwood MC-43S 
microphone with the front panel mic level at 41, compression at 15. Menu 
mic gain set to FP.H


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80
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[Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 K2 20W Internal Auto Tuner

[Bob DeHaney]

Anyone have an assembled tuner or unassembled kit available excess to their
needs?  I can do PayPal or a Money Order.

Please reply off the list. [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Vy 73, Bob WU5T/DJ0MBC

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 23-Nov-07
19:39  
 

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[Elecraft] RE: PowerSDR/IF stage v0.91 Released

[Benny Aumala]

Scott,
The only version available on that page seems to be old v0.90 from August.

I appreciate highly your work and there is much of interest after all those K3s 
roll out.
Benny OH9NB
_
original text:

I just posted up a new version of the PowerSDR/IF Stage software which
contains a bunch of bug fixes. See this website for more information
and downloading:

http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html

-Scott, WU2X


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[Elecraft] K3 and K2 Side by Side Photo?

[Mike]

Nice pics Craig.
I see you have the MicroKeyer hooked up.   I assume you brewed your own 
connection cables since the website says they are not available til Dec 1st.   
How does it work with the radio?  Also notice you have a Heil Cable on the K3, 
wonder what mic you are using and the results.
Mike WA8EBM
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[Elecraft] k3 - what are your settings?

[johnny]

Hello Group,

Under the firmware 1.41, the NR is far better than the KDSP2 in K2.  What kinds 
of NR settings are you using?  I only use 'NR 0' and it seems working well.

BTW, when to use the IF Noise blanker and when to the DSP IF blanker?

I am using a dynamic moving coil hand mic from Adzen, Japan.  The TX EQ 
settings at  3.2K + 1db, 2.4K + 2db, the rest are 0db.  I get good audio 
reports.  How about your settings?

I would like to make sure that I am familiar with all the goodies of K3 before 
doing an A/B comparison with my IC7800.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC
K3# 46
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[Elecraft] k3 - what are your settings?

[johnny]

Hello Group,

Under the firmware 1.41, the NR is far better than the KDSP2 in K2.  What kinds 
of NR settings are you using?  I only use 'NR 0' and it seems working well.

BTW, when to use the IF Noise blanker and when to the DSP IF blanker?

I am using a dynamic moving coil hand mic from Adzen, Japan.  The TX EQ 
settings at  3.2K + 1db, 2.4K + 2db, the rest are 0db.  I get good audio 
reports.  How about your settings?

I would like to make sure that I am familiar with all the goodies of K3 before 
doing an A/B comparison with my IC7800.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC
K3# 46
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[David Woolley]

Dick Dievendorff wrote:
File time stamps are not used.  Version numbers are implied from filenames. 


wget will still work in that environment, although rsync probably 
wouldn't be useful.


Typically, though, what people do with ftp distribution sites under 
those conditions is to have a link to the current version, as well as 
the numbered versions.


--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader, Version 1.0.11.21

[Dick Dievendorff]

File time stamps are not used.  Version numbers are implied from filenames. 

Dick, K6KR
 




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Woolley
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 3:46 AM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Minor irritation with K3 Firmware Loader,
Version 1.0.11.21

Toby Deinhardt wrote:
> 
> While one does not need to use the Elecraft application to download from 
> Elecraft, any FTP client will do, it is a little bit "easier" to do this 
> with the K3 downloader, because it automatically knows what is new since 
> the the last download.

If detecting updated files is the only issue, and assuming that Elecraft 
don't upset the modification dates of unmodified files, you should use 
the open source "wget" tool to do the downloads.  This can be run in a 
mode where it only transfers files which have changed modifications 
dates or changed sizes.  wget has an ftp mode, in which it will traverse 
the directory hierarchy, subject to configurable restrictions, and an 
http mode, in which it will traverse the link structure, again subject 
to configurable restrictions.

Better still, although the firmware files may not be big enough for full 
benefit, would be to use "rsync", but that requires Elecraft to run an 
rsync server.

Incidentally, if the Elecraft downloader is giving false indications of 
files being modified, I wonder if it is trying to compare local time of 
last download against the ftp time stamp, which is most often the local 
time at the server, although a server might be set to use UTC.
-- 
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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[Elecraft] external speaker selection

[Ed Rodriguez]

Has anyone found a good external speaker to compliment the K3?
any comments appreciated..

Thanks
Ed
Wp4o
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Re: [Elecraft] Mac OS-X support

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I believe there is - Wayne did state they would like to try to get someone
to do that - I think there may be someone looking into it.
The Mac is my machine of choice and I run all my Radio s/w on it, so would
prefer not to have to flip to a PC just for upgrade.
But being in the s/w world and working for large financial corp. I have to
use Wintel too.


On 25/11/07 10:53, "dj" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> Being a hard core Mac user this would be very good news and
> solidifies my interest in the K3.
> 
> Dale J.
> K9VUJ
> 
> 
> "There is an effort underway to port the K3 Utility to Mac and Linux.
> 
> 73 de Dick, K6KR"
-- 
When one tugs at a single thing in nature,
he finds it attached to the rest of the world.
-John Muir, naturalist, explorer, and writer (1838-1914)



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