[Elecraft] AF/RF Knob situation - joined the club

2009-12-04 Thread ajsoenke
After 2+ years of operation K-3 SN31 has just succumbed to a compound failure 
of the smaller Main control AF and RF knobs.
I thought I was pretty lucky when I first saw list notes about the knobs 
failing and figured maybe a bad batch, etc. The rig SN 31 was originally placed 
in service in late October 2007. Last week during CQWW I lost AF control, 
determined the knob ws slipping and took a closer look. One of the set screws 
was at the face of a fracture that ran across the entire half of the shaft 
recess. For a quick fix, I decided to swap knobs with RF control. I no sooner 
slipped the other knob on the AF shaft and it split lengthwise. Quick trip to 
the junk box and an old Heathkit all metal knob saved the day. 

Today I take a look at the list and WOW what do I see, 3 days of knobitis has 
hit the fan.  So, maybe the problem is not going to go away that soon. I figure 
if Elecraft hasn't been real responsive about the problem, they are at a loss 
for answers and need a few days to regroup. It does happen now and then. So, I 
haven't called for or requested any replacement pars right now. What I have 
done is take a look at some of the vast number of oscilloscopes I have piled up 
around my classroom. I have Leader, Heath, Phillips, Toshiba, Hitachi, Tek, ad 
HPs - several dozen. The only one that doesn't have a mini shaft control onit 
anywhere is a 60 year old DuMont. At least 75% of these scopes are over 25 
years old and have had pretty rough handling in school room. Some I even 
brought to the classroom after 20 years use in my engineering Labs. Not one has 
ever had to have a knob replaced for breakage.

So what's the difference?  As far as I can tell the main difference, besides 
color, is the old well used knobs are made of a platic that is more compliant, 
and most have a metal collar inserted in them, but not all. The Heatkits from 
early days - up til about 1970 used metal knobs in most ham rig applications. 
My 54 year old Hallicrafters use plain plastic knobs - no inserts but larger 
shaft size. 

I have always used a very light touch when tightening the set screws, so I have 
no fear I overdid it.

Right now the plan here is to get the operation stabilized with the best thing 
I can find, then, if I like the feel and appearance, stick with it til Elecraft 
gets a handle on things and can supply good replacements.  Some of the Heath 
metal knobs are an almost perfect match and could be anodized black for a 
durable finish.

Al,  WA6VNN   
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[Elecraft] ARRL K3/100 up for auction

2009-10-21 Thread ajsoenke
Item 08023 - starting bid $2500 - Goes on auction at 10AM ET Thursday 10/22/09. 
 Just a few hours away.



http://arrl.auctionanything.com/AuctionHelp.taf?S=nkeyword=return=50R=C=sort=1DA=st=1Category_ID=Donor_ID=su=status=skipkw=1_start=101days=10PD=CD=hr=bo=lo=hi=loc=at=P=Ltype=event_id=



73 es good luck, Al WA6VNN


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Re: [Elecraft] RF feedback

2008-12-05 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/5/2008 9:05:02 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'm running the K3 with an  Ameritron AL800 and a Steppir 3 element 
with 40m dipole add-on.  I have  a severe though intermittent feedback 
problem on 40m that I did not have  with an Icom 751a.  The feedback 
only occurs when I'm using the amp  (even with very low drive).  I've 
common core choked virtually every  lead with ultimately no luck.  I'm 
using the Elecraft hand mike.   Is there a known problem 
here?  Otherwise, I'll just keep  searching.

Dick

Dick Lindzen, KA1SA
301 Lake Avenue
Newton,  MA 02461 USA

1-617-332-4342  

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++
Have you tried other bands?  What Version Firmware are you  using?
 
I have a problem that may also be RF feedback related. I occurs only on 40M  
and only when I exceed 80 W to my Dipole antenna. No problem full power up to  
120 watts into Vertical or any other band. Problem started immediately after  
upgrading FW to V 2.46. I have a couple upgrades to do on the rig including 
the  AGC upgrade, which I have held off making until my Sub Receiver upgrade. 
Since  that arrived a few days ago I will be doing all upgrades and the 
subreceiver  install this weekend. I don't plan on any changes in FW other than 
activating  the KRX3.  I will then test the 40M issue. I do not have a good 
earth  
ground on the K3 nor am I running any form of Amp. But, the rig has worked  
perfectly since it was installed a year ago and the ATUs have always provided a 
 
good match in the 1.X:1 range on both Vert and Dipole including 160M, 30M, 
12M,  17M in addition to the usual 5 bands the Ants are designed for.
 
Al WA6VNN
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Re: [Elecraft] dmm vs vom

2008-10-09 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 10/8/2008 11:03:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi all,

Is there any problem using a  VOM instead of a DMM to perform the resistance 
checks while building the K3? I  have yet to make it fully into the modern era 
and to that end, do not have a  DMM.

Tnx es 73,
Jim  W5QM


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Generally it is not a problem, if you are checking resistors. The area you  
can get into trouble is when you have semiconductors connected to the circuit - 
 Elecraft Rigs are loaded with them. The problem can come from most VOMs not  
being able to limit the current applied to the circuit under test. Even at 
low  voltage you could apply a voltage with enough current to bias a transistor 
to a  destructive level. Most DMMs use a high impedance amplifier on input to 
reduce  current flow to/from the meter. The resistance circuitry can also be 
made to  sample E/I data at low enough levels to provide resistance measurement 
at much  lower current and voltage. IMO, with many DVM/DMMs on the market at 
low cost,  it's probably not worth the risk.

Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2s transmitted phase noise

2008-10-09 Thread AJSOENKE
One of the main reasons touted by Elecraft for many years is the low phase  
noise presented on the K2.
Some of the things that contribute to unacceptable phase noise levels can  be 
attributed to incorrect alignment of circuits during build, inadequate  
shielding of CAT cables and bus interconnect cables. The K100 higher power  
levels 
will also have proportionately higher levels of 'corruption'. A damaged  or 
poorly working interface cable from the K2 basic to the K100 bus panel can be  
picked up on the transmitted signal. Running a KW will certainly take any of 
the  above and make it that much worse, hence a small almost unnoticeable tweak 
at  the base level can make a big difference after 12 db of amplification.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 10/6/2008 10:55:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
At ZM1A (Multi-single/Multi-Two) contest station we  had serious key-up 
wide-band noise problems with several different YaeComWood  models - least 
obnoxious was the IC-780 plus Drake L4B, two sets of antennas  separated about 
100m, 
especially with both quads pointed at each  other.

K2s (#767 and #3725)  plus a small external SS amp produced  no discernible 
phase noise when driving a Sunair GL-1900B amp - bandpass ATUs on  both 
stations. 

Please note that these were not K2/100s, so maybe our  experience is not 
relevant.   

We now use two K3s, amps at 500w  output.
The K3s are so clean that we can operate within 3 kHz of 1st harmonic  on CW.
No clicks, no de-sense, no phase noise - happy  contesters.

73,
Ken ZL1AIH ( ZM1A in  contests)






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Re: [Elecraft] Young K2 Builder

2008-10-01 Thread AJSOENKE
Congratulations on your accomplishment. Last spring a group of students in my 
electronics class undertook the challenge of building a K2 (SN6281) It is now 
part of ARS KI6PRK at Dos Pueblos high school in Goleta CA.  It was completed 
just before school let out for the summer and the new classes are just 
getting used to it. 3 students from last year are still on campus and currently 
taking the classes along with 17 of their classmates.  We have done a little 
hamming and have two students nearing there general exams.  Latest news is I 
have 
acquired a 60 ft tubular crank-up tower for the club station. Donated by K6HOZ, 
who has moved to Las Vegas to run his business, he needed to remove it from 
the prior residence.  It's nice to have generous friends.  My K3, sn 31 has 
spent many hours in the classroom also.  FYI, the students who built ranged in 
age from 15 to 17 and did all the work themselves. My contribution was to post 
an inquiry on this list when it was deemed necessary to reset the firmware.  
One problem was experienced and fixed when I admonished them to review the 
assembly instructions to the letter and they found they had wound a toroid on 
the 
SWR bridge backwards, the one place that it is crucial.

73 es hope to hear you on the air!  Al   WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 by candlelight

2008-09-16 Thread AJSOENKE
Sounds like solderless kit building has arrived!!
 
(Here's the story about the Eskimo fisherman I met while on a canoe trip to  
the Arctic. He lived in Tuktoyaktuk, of Ice Road Truckers fame, only this 
was  1965. He had built a Heathkit 'Fish Finder' kit and had a little trouble 
with  it; he damaged the small motor in it while assembling it. Seems a Bolt 
heated  over a charcoal fire in an Arctic cabin is less than an ideal tool.  As 
it  turned out I was using an identical model in my canoe to study river bottom 
 contours and also operate ham radio ( SWAN SX(?) 250 and Master mobile  
equipped).  I helped him get his unit working again - temporarily ( I  carried 
the 
needed tools). I wrote a letter to Heath upon returning to So. Cal  and told 
them the whole story. Got a phone call from the co president who told  me he 
was so impressed by the details of that man's ordeal that they built a new  
unit and shipped it to him. They didn't have Fed-Ex yet and UPS didn't deliver  
the Ice Road, which hadn't been mapped yet, but I'm sure that old red barge 
made  it up their just in time to beat the winter freeze. Talk about customer 
service!  ) 
 
Al WA6VNN
 
++

In a message dated 9/16/2008  6:51:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I think  this must be a first. Yesterday Sept 15th, I received my K3/100 kit,
which  was ordered on May 16th (SN 1672?). The day before we had a major
windstorm  here in Ohio with 70 mph gusts which knocked out power to much of
our area.  So last night I began assembling my K3 near a window to supply
natural light,  but quickly needed to break out the candles and flashlights.
I'm up to the  front panel assembly now, and we may not have power for
several more  days.

Has anyone else assembled their K3 by candlelight? Boy, those split  lock
washers are tough to grab under a flickering candle! This will bring  new
meaning to the smoke test!

Steve N9SZ
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Sent from the  Elecraft mailing list archive at  Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! Permeability of Ferrite Cores...

2008-09-13 Thread AJSOENKE
This site is the manufacturer of the Ferrite materials They are  responsible 
for a major percentage of the material used by the ferrite core  
manufacturers and retailers.  There are several tutorials on a variety of  
lists that 
break down the relation-ship between Fair-Rite and the 2nd party  suppliers. 
These 
usually describe the disparity in prices and availability  - basic 
wholesale/retail and quantity handling issues. The part numbers you show  are 
the result 
of the retailers part numbering.  If you know the retailers  part 
number-to-material type
(i.e. I believe the FT37-43) is a toroid size - material type id) the you  
can go to the following web pages and see the material specs for all of  
Fair-Rites sizes in the various materials. 
 
_www.fair-rite.com/_ (http://www.fair-rite.com/)  
 
_http://www.fair-rite.com/cgibin/catalog.pgm#select:freq3_ 
(http://www.fair-rite.com/cgibin/catalog.pgm#select:freq3) 
 
Amidon is a retailer or value added supplier. This is their page for the  
FT-37-43
 
_https://www.amidoncorp.com/items/13_ (https://www.amidoncorp.com/items/13) 
 
which indicates the type 43 material in a FT37 size.
 
Also, the ISO standards list will give you other mfg names which may add to  
your list.
 
BTW, I used Google for all this. Having been in the business for many years  
(Computer magnetic components and materials), I  knew of Fair-Rite by name.  I 
searched using the terms  FAIRRITE first and then FT37 TOROID. The word  
TOROID is key to yielding results.
 
Good luck,  Al WA6VNN
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/12/2008 11:16:12 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Can nyone provide me with the permeability number for  the T37-2 and the 
FT37-43 cores???

Using Google hasn't got me the  data I need  ;-((


--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III  Sprite in Richland, WA

If life begins at 50, why am I falling apart  ?!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Newbie

2008-08-30 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 8/30/2008 6:09:10 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I've been a subscriber to this list since the day I  ordered the K3 back in
March 2008.  The factory assembled and tested  radio is due to arrive next
week.  

I'd like to hear about any  issues previously listed here I need to read
before next week. Please respond  to me OFF-LIST as I am sure this request is
not interesting to the old  timers. No sense in disrupting the flow of
current info with my silly  (perhaps, even lazy) request.

I need all the time-saving help I can get  since rewiring the station to
integrate the K3 in the first operating  position will take some time.
Contest season is upon us.

I'm using  N1MM software for contests with Logic 8/TRX Manager for daily
contacts and  moving the FT-1000MP to the second position.

Thanks,

73,  Dick

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

+
 
The best time saving advice I can give is to not try to do it all in one  
night. Fatige, cutting corners, skipping steps ( on purpose or by accident ) 
are  
usually contributors to a rework - redo operation.  When you un-pack the  
radio and check the packing  1) unwrap / remove from plastic bags very  
carefully 
and gently, snagging a small SMD can result in timely delays to  replace 
parts. 2) Unpack on a cleared large work area. It can be very  frustrating to 
have 
a missing part only to find it a month later kicked under  the coffee table 
as it fell from a larger bag. 3) Inspect ALL packing materials  and bags for 
possible separated parts before you place packing in separate  containers - 
ALSO 
it helps to put all discarded packing and bags boxes in  shipping container 
and do not discard until the rig is completed and operating  properly.  4) Stop 
to reread what you have done before proceeding to  next step, compare to 
pictures diagrams and don't be afraid to ask online if you  are unsure of next 
step or meaning.  You should be able to have it on the  air in two 4 - 5 hour 
sessions.
 
Having had to wait 4 months, you probably had time to pre-read the  
assembly,manual, if not, at least do a close scan of the assembly manual. Be  
familiar 
with the Operators Manual and the tables used for setup and  configuration, 
you will spend most of your time learning that after the assembly  is complete.
 
One last thing - take a few pictures so you can savor the moment later  on  - 
enjoy
 
73, AL WA6VNN   (#31 FWIW)



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 UNBUILT KIT STILL WANTED!!

2008-08-27 Thread AJSOENKE
Aside from the fact that many unused kits sell for almost the price of a  new 
one, there is a  certain value in having the warranty (one year) of a  new 
kit in addition to the guarantee of success that is attached to it. You are  
also assured of the latest version firmware and current state of any mods that  
may have been applied.
 
If you buy and older unassembled kit, you can be assured that you will get  
all the advice and info needed to make it a success, but there is always a  
chance that implementing changes and add-ins/upgrades will com at a price.   
This 
may be more value to you as a bargaining chip rather than to alter  your 
decision making.
 
Al, WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Truncated Daily Digests

2008-07-25 Thread AJSOENKE
I have many e-mail accounts and use a variety of e-mail softwares. One of  
the features of many of them sets the maximum size of e-mails that it will  
receive. Eudora is one that has that feature. Check your  e-mail software 
settings 
or preferences/options for setting size of e-mails  it'll receive.  Maybe 
that will help.
 
73 de Al WA6VNN
 
++
 
 
In a message dated 7/25/2008 7:40:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
WAYNE - I have received several replies  indicating I am not alone in
receiving truncated Daily Digests.  Comcast  pleads innocence.  Would it be
possible to put a size limit on  Digests?  In my case, some digests get
through - many do not.  Last  digest was 227kb. Perhaps they could be
released in 50 - 60 kb bunches.   Thanks



Jim

K7EG



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Re: [Elecraft] And yet even More K2 Distorted TX audio on 10m and 12m only

2008-06-27 Thread AJSOENKE
It sounds like you may have a spurious oscillation problem inside the box.  A 
spur can drain a high level of power, be off frequency, destroy finals, etc.  
The power on one band and none on the other sounds like you may have a 
component  misplaced or wrong value - including the tuning of the coil. Another 
possibility  is a bad solder joint so a critical capacitor value is not being 
seen.  I  suggest doing a real thorough visual on both sides of the board and 
maybe a  touch up on all the solder joints on those bands.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/27/2008 12:27:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I lied about lying about the power, after  realigning my filters my 12 and
10m power is normal. The signal is still  horrible, however.

-- 
73 de  n1ywb
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Modification Help

2008-06-20 Thread AJSOENKE
Check the Elecraft web page for upgrades that either rig might be lacking  in 
support of the KPA. Also make sure your Firmwares are up-to-date. I would  
recommend doing a reset on the older rig after install hardware and prior to  
configuring setup. You may want to check your filter configs and record any  
configs that will get wiped in a reset. Of course all power settings thru the  
KAT will need to be cal'd too.

Al WA6VNN,  K3#31, K2# 4887   6281



 
In a message dated 6/20/2008 9:56:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'd keep the K2/10 with the KAT2. That's a  nice tuner and can't be used with
the PA. The only other option in the qrp  rig you don't have for the qro is
the K60RX. Might be better to move that  than to waste the KAT2.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
Here  are the two radios:

K2/10 S/N 02689 with KSB2, K160RX, K60XV, KNB2, KAF2,  KAT2

k2/100 S/N 3523 with KSB2 ( I have KNB2, K160RX and KAF2 kits to  install )

What I would like to do is pull the KPA100 out of the one radio  and make
what is currently the QRP radio a  K2/100.
/snip

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Re: [Elecraft] Probelm with KPA-100

2008-06-15 Thread AJSOENKE
Although the KPA is installed and is responding to setup configs, there is  
one area that is sometimes overlooked. The internal RF connection to the Main  
board needs to be connected correctly, and the antenna needs to go to the KPA  
SO239, not the Mainboard BNC.
 
Al WA6VNN
+++
In a message dated 6/15/2008 7:46:16 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Dave,

How is receive with the KPA100  in-line?  If receive is degraded, then 
the KPA100 LPF may be the  problem, but if power output is the only 
problem than the PA transistors (or  the T/R switch) is the area that 
needs attention.

The first step that  I would take is to check the bias adjustment - do 
the steps indicated in the  manual.  Secondly, check the RF voltages at 
the input to the KPA100 and  the bases of the PA transistors - if the 
bases are receiving RF, then the  KPA100 should amplify.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dave White wrote:
  I have a KPA-100 that is not putting out any power.  The K2 operates  
 fine using the standard QRP power (up to 10 watts).  Power is  good 
 and the SWR is low.  When the power control is advanced to  bring in 
 the KPA-100 (relay click), the power reading immediately  goes to 1 
 and there is no power output.  The KPA-100 is  recognized and the PA is 
 turned ON in the setup menu. Everything else  appears normal .This is 
 a used KPA-100 and there are no obvious signs  of damage; the 
 construction quality looks to be excellent. The previous  owner said 
 there was no history of problems.

 Any quick  ideas on where to start the troubleshooting process?  I have 
 some  hobbyist test equipment and modest to good troubleshooting 
  skills.

 Thanks in advance for your help.

  Regards

 Dave White, VE6DRW
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: We're on Mars!!

2008-05-26 Thread AJSOENKE
If you guys are excited, you can only imagine how some of us who have 
hardware on board feel!!

Al WA6VNN



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[Elecraft] OT: Manufacturers may need to redesign Frequency Displays

2008-05-22 Thread AJSOENKE
Here is an rather old post with serious implications for amateurs.This could 
mean major revisions in the way manufacturers display frequency. It may also 
lead to serious complications with the design precision of many rigs and other 
electronics devices.
 
_http://www.snopes.com/lost/fraction.asp_ 
(http://www.snopes.com/lost/fraction.asp) 
 
On the Positive side, it will finally put an end to the idiotic pricing of 
Gasoline to a tenth of a cent - as if that really matters anymore.  Be careful 
the next time you buy a pair of shoes and be prepared to buy groceries in even 
numbers of pounds.  (I can now picture buying strawberries and sifting through 
the bins for that evasive berry that makes a full pound.)
 
Seriously, can still call these idiot legislators half-wits in the belief 
they will know what it means?  I sure would like to find an April 1st date on 
that bill!
 
My Class couldn't stop laughing for half an. . . .oops! 30 minutes when they 
read this  ;)
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support

2008-05-16 Thread AJSOENKE
Jon,
 
I haven't read all the replies on this list, it's getting late here in 
California, so I hope I'm not being repetitious. From what I read it sounds 
like you 
are having a rather normal experience.
I don't know how old you are, so I can't tell if this will be very helpful. 
Usually I can guess from the call sign, but a KB1 that's only a couple months 
old is a little difficult to 'decode.'
 
Anyway,  I wanted to tell you that I am a retired engineer who is teaching 
electronics at the local high school. I have actually been teaching part time 
for the last 23 years, partly for my own fun and partly to help make sure some 
of our youth gets more out of high school than most schools offer.  If you were 
living in Santa Barbara, I can guarantee you wouldn't be having this problem. 
Our local school district offers the classes I teach absolutely free of 
charge and there is no age restriction except we prefer students be over 15. ( 
I 
have several 9th graders that are barely 14 and several adults in their 40s.)  
We offer the training along with the books and online resources, and every 
imaginable test equipment you could need.
 
My class just completed a K2 10 Watt transceiver, and their antenna is going 
up tomorrow.
 
I suggest you get in touch with your local school district/community college 
and local ham clubs. You may have had some contact with a local club already. 
In fact the ARRL headquarters and their entire lab is only a short drive 
(~69Mi) away from  Stamford, where you live. And be sure to take your K1 with 
you.  
Take an adult ed class, maybe.
 
Hams are one of the greatest 'fraternities' I know of. Look at all the 
replies you got on this list!  We've all been through this and we rely on each 
other, most of us can't afford a lot of test gear, etc. either. So, we share 
with 
each other. 
 
Oh, yes! One other thing - don't be too hard on the Elecraft support people. 
After all, this list is their idea. Plus, they have don't a super human job of 
putting a new product on the market this past year and it may have them 
spread a little thin. What you have received from them isn't available from 
most 
companies at any level.
 
Good Luck, let us know how you make out. (Even experienced builders have had 
problems getting as far as you have).
 
Al WA6VNN and the Class of Dos Pueblos ARC (KI6PRK)



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Re: [Elecraft] Fan Panel Flipped???

2008-05-10 Thread AJSOENKE
My SN31 doesn't exhibit a noticeable difference between inner surface  finish 
and outer surface finish.
It is conceivable that a metal working shop might assume the surface with  
the flush screws faced the exterior for appearance sake, rather than the  
engineered aspects.
 
Al WA6VNN
++ 
 
In a message dated 5/10/2008 2:40:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


My #818 has the same problem with the fan panel  finish painted on the wrong
side.  One wonders if this is just a new  batch of panels with the problem or
the problem has been there from the git  go?

Bob K9PAG
-- 
View this message in context:  
http://www.nabble.com/Fan-Panel-Flippedtp17165302p17167835.html
Sent from  the Elecraft mailing list archive at  Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] [K2] SN6281 0n the air

2008-05-09 Thread AJSOENKE
I'm pleased to announce that the construction of  K2 SN 6281 has been 
successfully completed by the students of the Dos Pueblos  Amateur Radio Club ( 
Dos 
Pueblos High School, Goleta, CA) with the new Call Sign  of KI6PRK, and is now 
on the air. The newly completed rig is a K2/10 with KAT2,  KIO2, KSB2 and 
KDSP2 installed.  No particular difficulty in building, one  toroid (K1 on 
KAT2) 
needed to be rewound. After comparing it to the drawing it  was found to be a 
mirror image. As a comment, were this a simple inductor or  transformer, it 
wouldn't have mattered. But, as the pickup point for the SWR  bridge, the 
mirroring of the windings causes the single turn pickup loop to work  in 
reverse - 
swapping the apparent Forward and Reverse currents. As I told my  students when 
they found this, if the Elecraft manual says 'exactly like the  drawing' they 
mean it!  We have a VE session this Saturday - getting ready  for FD. 

73  de WA6VNN, Al 
Trustee of KI6PRK  




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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Firmware Fatigue - was K2 v K3

2008-05-07 Thread AJSOENKE
No problem here Wayne,  I remember when a mod required a hot soldering  Iron 
to undo. And in case any of the younger crowd here thinks this wasn't a big  
deal should have owned the hotest rig for 1978, the Yaesu FT901DM. It kept a  
monthly newsletter full of mods (Fox Tango Club, before internet e-mail)  and 
they didn't always work, and the hardware was not returnable. The one  I'm 
reminded of most from those days was tearing into the audio card to   modify 
the 
mic amp front end. Most of us hated the tinny high pitched mic audio  the 
Japanese built into those rigs. A few caps and resistors later it sounded a  
little 
better. That one mod took more time to get right than ALL the FW upgrades  
I've done on my K3 since Last November.
 
(I think you're spoiling some of these kids ;-)
 
73, Al, WA6VNN
 
(Oh Yes! Talk about spoiled, Thanks for the best drawing prize I ever won  at 
DX Convention. I Took care of ordering a KRX3 and FM filter the next  day)  
 
+
In a message dated 5/7/2008 9:57:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
S Sacco wrote:

 ...they go from Alpha  right into Production.


Steve,

This isn't the case at all.  We have 20 beta testers who work tirelessly 
testing interim releases.  They're doing it as we speak. They pounded on 
rev 1.87 for three  weeks.

The K3 is a very complex radio, yet we're trying to make it easy  to 
use. This paradox keeps Lyle and I up at night, but I think we're  
converging.

We appreciate everyone's  patience.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 wish list - option to turn off display

2008-04-29 Thread AJSOENKE
Bob,
 
I don't think your concerns are warranted. The LCD is an array of  transistor 
switches which affect the transmission of light by polarizing effects  of 
their electrostatic field. The actual light is provided by backlighting from  
light emitting diodes which are well known for their longevity.
 
The Day mode will shut off the LED backlights on the LCD, but unfortunately  
it also ups the level of brightness for the LEDs on the controls. That would  
seem to be a simple fix in the firmware.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
In a message dated 4/27/2008 7:06:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I increasingly like to operate remote, especially  when traveling.
This can sometimes mean that the rig is turned on for several  days.
I have some concern about burn-out of the LCD display in areas  where  
it remains unchanged for long periods.
Maybe this is an  unjustified worry, but it would be good to have the  
option to simply  turn off the display when using remote operation, or  
even when  operating the rig from a PC in the shack.

Bob,  G3YIQ

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Re: [Elecraft] RE: K3 at Auction

2008-04-28 Thread AJSOENKE
H! It seems to me that would put Icom/Yaesu/Kenwood and many other Ham  
radio Rigs in a not in the spirit of ham radio category. As I recall  every 
one that I ever bought was first sold to someone before they marked it up  and 
sold it to me. At least that's what the AES, HRO and Jun's sales receipt  
said. ;-)
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
The law of Supply and Demand is applied here, although, in my opinion,  it's 
sure not, in the spirit of ham radio. . . .



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 at auction

2008-04-27 Thread AJSOENKE
Is the Country configuration of the K3 an issue?
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread AJSOENKE
Another low voltage power source that is in common use is the lead-acid  
storage battery used  on cars and especially the deep cycle marine battery  
favored by hams for backup.  Usually a ring or watchband is not a problem  
because 
of the terminal spacing at the battery, but the danger is very much  present at 
the other end of the cables where it may be connected to a terminal  strip 
etc. 
 
The added danger of these batteries is they can deliver as much as 800 amps  
depending on the internal resistance of the battery and cables.  If the  
internal resistance is as little as 1/10th Ohm at 14 volts that is 140 amps. 
The  
power generated in the battery under these conditions is 140X140/10 or 1960  
Watts.
 
2KW heating the acid contents of a battery can cause it to explode from  
steam pressure in a matter of seconds, thus spraying everything in the area 
with  
sulphuric acid and hot lead. When this happens in a car the result is usually 
a  totalled vehicle and seriously injured mechanic and passers-by. 
 
I never use a wrench  which has exposed metal surfaces long enough to  short 
a battery, and I always disconnect the negative terminal (- ground assumed  
here) and cap it before working around them.
 
Al WA6VNN
__
 
In a message dated 4/19/2008 8:11:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I see you got plenty of answers about the APPs, Bill.  You will need to
provide your own suitable connectors for the power supply  end of the cable.

You mention having high-capacity batteries and a 70-amp  Astron supply. It
sounds like you have experience with high-current supplies  and understand
how dangerous they can be, but there are a lot of readers here  who may not
have that background. 

I mention it because many Hams  think 13.8 VDC is safe to handle. It's *NOT*.
It's not the voltage, of  course, but the current. A short often produces a
flash of molten metal that  may continue for a while if the resistance is
enough to avoid tripping a  breaker or crowbar circuit.

It can take off a finger or a hand, or very  severely injure a person in an
instant should a ring or watch band get across  the supply line, immediately
transformed by the current into red-hot metal  burning its way through flesh.
In my days working in the field as an aircraft  radio/radar tech I knew some
who were missing fingers because they neglected  to take off a wedding band
when working. It's not a nice way to lose a hand  or finger. It's not always
quick. It can take a while, with the ring or watch  band welded solidly to
the terminals by the current as the hot metal eats its  way through a finger
or wrist. 

I've seen tempered steel screwdrivers  literally explode into a spray of
molten metal blobs when dropped across a  high-current, low-voltage supply -
blobs of molten steel that splatter the  face and eyes of the unwary worker
not wearing protective gear. Less severe  shorts can set wiring, and the
shack, on fire in short order, all without  opening a breaker or tripping the
crowbar protective circuit in the power  supply. Even a more moderate 35 Amp
supply can start a fire or cause a severe  burn under the right conditions. 

Working on shipboard and aircraft  systems using 12 to 28 VDC at high
currents, I've learned to treat such  supplies with the same respect I do a
3KV high-voltage supply. The concerns  and procedures needed to be safe are
different, but either a high voltage or  a low-voltage, high-current supply
is dangerous in its own way. 

I use  soldered-on ring terminals on my Astron supplies that provide  large,
low-resistance contact areas with the lugs and which cannot be pulled  loose
without physically breaking the wire, and I make very sure there are  no
metallic objects (cabinets, connectors, other equipment, etc.) located  where
they might be accidentally moved and make contact with exposed  supply
terminals anywhere. And then I make sure the terminals on my power  supply
(and anywhere else) are carefully covered and insulated from  accidental
contact, just in case. 

Ron AC7AC  


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Re: [Elecraft] Tin Whiskers

2008-04-08 Thread AJSOENKE
Tin Whiskers has primarily been a problem inside hermetic seals where there  
is little or no atmosphere and in weightless environments. Satellite and space 
 probe instrument makers are the most concerned (Hence NASAs involvement). 
Has  anyone heard of the tin whisker as a problem in automotive or home 
entertainment  environment?

Al WA6VNN

++

In a message dated 4/7/2008 7:58:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Tin whiskers could be a problem in more than a home  entertainment system, a 
PC, or that K-3 under the dash...Automobiles today are  fully computerized and 
that could spell disaster if whiskers short out the  control unit while you 
are bombing down the expressway at 65 MPH...You lose most  of your braking, 
your ability to steer and your ability to motor out of the way  of that semi 
behind you...It was a long time ago and there is no evidence that I  know of as 
to 
why it happened, but Harry Chapin was killed on the Long Island  Expressway 
when his Volkswagen died and he was run over by a  semi...

Jerry,  wa2dkg___
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 L33

2008-04-03 Thread AJSOENKE
Scott,

I just installed L33 in a K2 last night. The wire should not require 
stripping in any manner. Be careful and don't flex it too much it is very 
fragile. 
Follow the procedure in the assembly manual closely. The hardest part is after 
the coil is in place on the rubber spacer, and the small 5.1 MOhm resistor is 
formed over the coil and soldered in place. The next operation requires looping 
each of the two wires around the ends of the resistor wire near the solder 
pad. It is best to use a tweezer to gently slip the wire ends around the 
resistor 
lead on each side and if you can, wrap it once more, then trim excess wire 
and solder the connection. Examine the solder joint with a magnifier and you 
should see a smooth well bonded solder joint. BTW Elecraft support is very good 
about answering e-mails, usually same day unless its a weekend or late at 
night. The list is a good backup in any case.

Good luck  es 73 de Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Problems with my K2 --- can anyone help??

2008-03-31 Thread AJSOENKE
I had similar problem during the build of my 2nd K2.  I had the  experience 
during the First test stage - very few parts on RF Board.   Consequently I 
re-soldered many pads on the FP and Cont boards, to no  avail.
I discovered that I could press DISPLAY button and Menu button and get  
mainly correct responses, but no tuning. All voltage and resistance tests were  
OK.
 
I resorted to doing a RESET on the EEPROM  (press 4+5+6 simultaneously  while 
turning ON power).
 
After that, all has been well since.
 
If you do a reset you will loose some EEPROM F/W setting you have made -  
filter configs, etc.
 
Check the supply voltage first, just in case it is falling too low. 
 
If the problem persists after reset and/or if it works but becomes  
intermittent, you should re seat the FP and Control boards in their connectors  
and 
consider inspecting/re soldering control board pads.
 
73 es Good Luck,  Al WA6VNN
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 3/30/2008 6:37:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My K2 just started with these issues  yesterday.

Does anyone have any suggestion other than sending the
rig  to Elecraft?

When I power the K2 up, it is like it has no  antenna
connection (I have the KAT 100 external tuner that I
use with the  rig). When I also power up only a few of
the letters for ELECRAFT appear on  the LED Screen.
Maybe 3 or 4 letters only and the S meter has three
bars  then a few blank and then 2 filled in. The rig
sounds like it is almost muted  or at times no audio.

Also when I power up, the KAT 100 shows the rig in  the
low power position even though I have the pot set for
100  watts.

It can take me about 5 to 10 minutes of turning the
rig on and  off until it will then function normally.
Once normal it is fine unless the  rig is off for about
an hour.

If I turn the rig off for an hour and  come back to it
it will not start normally and I have the same issues
all  over again.

I have checked all of my connections into the  rig
especially the power connections and antenna
connections.

It  kind of reminds me if I had an IC that was somehow
failing  somewhere?

Thanks for the feedback!

Best 73's -- Norm   K9NK


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Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time mod

2008-03-31 Thread AJSOENKE
It's not that 3ms is a lot of time in terms of human scale. But, it is the  
rise time of an electronic pulse. This can have a lot of impact on the 
transient  waveform that results in an audio demodulator - i.e. receiver. The 
difference is  noticeable enough to make the difference in a crowded band weak 
signal 
situation  when the receiving station is differentiating what he hears. That's 
why a banjo  sounds different than a guitar  or violin.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
+
 
In a message dated 3/29/2008 5:34:22 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
People,

8 ms.- 5 ms.= 3 ms., does it  matter in any practical sense?  I would really 
like to know who cares,  and why?  Can anyone hear the difference? 
Three-thousanths of a  second?  Not my old brain.

73,
John, W2GW
K3  #384


- Original Message - 
From: Lyle Johnson  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 5:21  PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time mod


 Or do Rev A  RF boards have a lower value for C222 than that shown on the 
  schematic?

 Early production K3 RF boards have a 1 uF capacitor  instead of a 0.1 uF 
 capacitor installed at C222.  Yes, the  published schematics show a 0.1 uF 
 capacitor.  The effect of the  larger capacitor is to increase the TX 
 waveform rise time to about 8 ms  instead of 5 ms.

 Rev B RF boards have the correct 0.1 uF value  installed.  Sometime during 
 Rev A RF board production, the value  installed on the board was changed 
 from 1 uF to 0.1 uF.

  Surface mount ceramic capacitors are not marked with a value, so you 
  cannot tell which you have by visual inspection.

 You can  determine if you have a 1 uF rather than a 0.1 uF by:

 1)  Measuring the capacitance if you have a capacitance meter.

 2)  Looking at the Tx output RF envelope on an oscilloscope or station 
  monitor scope.  If the fall time and the rise time look very similar in  
 duration, you have the 0.1 uF cap. If the rise time is about 50% longer  
 than the fall time, you have the 1 uF capacitor.  You don't need  an 
 oscilloscope with an accurate time base to make this comparative  
 measurement.  If your oscilloscope has a low bandwidth (2 to 10  MHz), use 
 the 160 meter band.

 3) If you are concerned  that your unit may have the 1 uF capacitor and you 
 have no way to  determine it otherwise, you can just replace it with the 
 0.1 uF part  and sleep better at night :-)

 If you don't change it, you will  not damage anything.  Your K3 will just 
 have slightly softer  keying and an upcoming firmware adjustment of the 
 keying time will be  less accurate.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Disable 5mHz

2008-03-23 Thread AJSOENKE
Maybe you are not using the Broadcast band on your K3, but if you ever  
install the BPF3 and AM filters to use BCB receive, you may find the 5  MHz 
band to 
be an excellent place to do your listening.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
In a message dated 3/22/2008 5:54:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi All,

Still trying to figure out all  out all the 'ins and outs' of my K3.

Quick question, can I turn off the  5mHz band, so when I scroll through the 
bands using the up and down band  buttons, it doesn't show up?? We don't have 
access to this in Australia, and  I don't have any real interest in listening 
in!!

thanks

David,  VK2NU 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Botnets - the growing threat

2008-03-18 Thread AJSOENKE
One of the courses I teach is Computer Repair and Service. My students  
recycle about 200 donated computers (PCs) per semester. They are redistributed  
to 
needy families locally.  We have just migrated to Windows XP on the  newer 
donations with fast processors and larger  (  256MB)
 
But, for at least 4 years now we have been distributing computers with  
smaller RAM and CPUs that started at 166MHZ. I'm currently cleaning out the 
last  
of about 50 Gateways with P3450s and 128/256 RAM.
We have run Windows 2000 (Win2K) exclusively on these computers (100s of  
them) with no problems. Also, it may be of interest top know that the 
recipients  
have been getting a full suite of software installed, all of it except the 
O/S  is freeware like Open Office. The only computers that have been slightly  
problematic are some HP Pavillions that need to have a special prep performed 
on  the HD so they accept the O/S gracefully.
 
We do have one advantage on the O/S because of the use of these computers  
being charitable in nature we have a free license to install Win2K.  There  is 
a 
way around this  for the general public. If they acquire a PC that has  a 
Win2K sticker in tact, they can legally install the O/S if it was  originally 
purchased legally.
 
For most users, they will find Win2K runs as good as XP with virtually no  
problems - and miles ahead of Win9x.  If you install Win2K you should also  
make 
sure to download and install SP4, to make it current.
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 
+
In a message dated 3/18/2008 10:44:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
A good thing to do with older computers running  Win98 is to try one of the
small versions of Linux designed for ham radio use  on older computers. 
Dave W1HKJ has bundled digimode and logging programs  onto a CD-bootable
version of Linux that runs great on small machines.   I just tried it
recently on a 366Mhz Thinkpad.

You can boot from CD,  and to do an upgrade, boot from a new CD.  It can
store your settings on  the existing Windows disk, so you will have your
log files and data  stored.

Or if you decide instead to replace Windows 98, you can install  it
directly and update it with new releases of the software with a few  mouse
clicks.

Give EMCPup a try at http://w1hkj.com/emcpup.html or at  least look at the
screenshot.

It includes:
- fldigi, the premier  Linux digimode program (same DSP modems as in Ham
Radio Deluxe's DM780) now  with K2 and K3 support
- fl logbook
- flarq (an ARQ-based soundmode  program)
- plus the usual email, browser,  etc.

Leigh/WA5ZNU

P.S. I've contributed a few features to fldigi  itself, but tried using
EMCPup until recently.



K4DGW  wrote:
 Hams often are using older computers, running operating systems  like
 Windows 98, that are no longer supported, and are no longer  being
 patched, but still connected to the internet (often directly  without a
 firewall / router).  In other cases, updates are  considered a hassle,
 and are not performed.  These reasons, along  with some bad decision's
 on Microsoft's part, plus human and criminal  ingenuity, has led us to
 where we are  today.

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier Vacuum Tubes

2008-03-16 Thread AJSOENKE
Having lived in Santa Barbara most of my life I have had the privilege of  
friendship with many of the staff of the original EiMac Vacuum Tube company. 
One 
 of the last of their original Tech staff, Rad Leonard, Just passed on a few  
months ago. In the course of these acquaintances I was privy to many of the  
stories of the development of these vacuum tubes. I'm sure there are published 
 accounts as well. The main thrust of these tails was the incredible 
meticulous  crafting they had to go through to make these tubes right. There 
are 
innumerable  accounts of their dealings with government contracts and the 
failings 
of their  competitors who were attempting to copy their designs. The usual 
government  contract gave the design right to the government who would then 
offer 
those  designs to competitors for competitive bidding. The companies original 
trade  secrets were not a part of the deal. The outcome was that detailed 
designs were  not enough to build a successful product. The details of the 
exact 
alloys used  for such critical components as filaments and cathodes, plates 
and gridwires;  the thermal design of the feedthru pins and the correct 
composition of the base  materials are all very critical.  I have never been 
convinced 
 that these devices could be 'copied'.  Like so many devices from the  vacuum 
tube era, including the rigs we used, the heart of success was the  original 
design concept and philosophy - The very things that are lost when  something 
is merely copied.
In the world of today, there is a belief that our technology is superior to  
that of the past and we can use that technology to create copies of things 
that  are better than the original. All that and make it cheaper and in more  
volume.  It just doesn't work like that!  I have my hat off to the  guys at 
Svetlana for getting as far as they have.  Some call it mojo,  others know it 
is 
skill coupled with a philosophy and experience.  If they  keep trying and 
acknowledge their failures the worldwide market will eventually  re-learn a lot 
that 
has been lost of the past. In the mean time - some of these  old amps that 
are laying around gathering dust may have some very useful spare  parts in them.
 
73 Al WA6VNN
 
 
+++

In  a message dated 3/16/2008 1:23:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  writes:
I have an amplifier with four 572B tubes.  I have  been
running the same Cetron 572Bs since 1976 in this
Dentron Clipperton L  and in a Hunter Bandit before. 
This summer I decided to lay in another set  to stretch
the life of the amp.  I ordered a quad of the  premium
Chinese Tubes from the distributor that I considered
to be the  best available.  When I received and
installed them they didn't  work.  After some
investigation and head scratching I found that one  of
them had an open filament.

The distributor replaced them with  another set and a
rude accusation that I ruined the tubes by  overdriving
them.

The second set lasted a month, but were not as good  as
the 30 year old Cetrons when installed and were dead
by the end of the  two CQWW DX contests.  I pulled the
new tubes and reinstalled the  Cetrons which are still
going strong.

I emailed the distributor and  asked what he would
recommend that I do and how he would be willing  to
help.  After my second email, I received a very rude
phone call  from the Customer Service Department
which essentially told me to stuff  it.

My conclusion is that amplifier tube supply as far as
572Bs are  concerned is dead now.  The Chinese are not
making a good product and  the US distributor feels
that he can do nothing about it, so his  present
approach it to stonewall the problem.

My next amplifier will  be whatever I deem the best
solid state amp available at a price that I  can
manage.  I hope that my Clipperton will hang in until
I can  recover from paying for my K3.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke  
K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Initial Alignment Test Part 1 - Issues

2008-03-16 Thread AJSOENKE
Whoa! Is this deja vu (all over again). Maybe you missed the exchange  
between me and Gary a couple days ago over the same question.  
 
I suspected I was having the identical problem you are having because of  
some of the random button pushing that took place during the assembly of K2 sn  
6281. I had forgotten the eeprom reset command and Gary was able to provide it. 
 It worked great to clear the problem.  Incidentally, the 2 in 0250.xx  
actually looks more like a ? without the dot, like in a K3 cw text  display.  
Anyway . . .ready?
 
1. Power off.  2. press and hold keys 4 - 5 - 6 simultaneously ( I  used a 
short pencil to do this ) and press power on. 3. you should first see  INFO 
201- 
wait around 10 seconds you should see ELECrAFt then 7100.0 c with  
annunciator marks as indicated in the manual.
 
Good luck, let me know how it turns out. 
 
This does not preclude the possibility of an initial soldering problem  
somewhere, but eventually you'll need to do this to get back on track.
 
73 AL WA6VNN
 
++
 
In a message dated 3/16/2008 5:11:16 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Maybe there is someone on the list that has been  through this issue and 
can lend me their insight.

I am on page 42  which is the Alignment and Test Part 1 section of the 
assembly  notes.

My relays all click as expected, I get the Elecraft message and  then I 
get a  message on the screen: 0250.33r and at the same  time
VFO B, RIT, and XIT are all flashing. I am expecting 7100.00c  
according to the book.  The 0250.33r message will change as the RIT  is 
adjusted.   --I don't see any references in the troubleshooting  to this.

The other weird thing is that when I turn the VFO the display  does not 
change.

The other initial tests seem fine. (Voltages,  relays, etc)

I am going to hold off going any further until I understand  why the 
message does not look right for where I am in the book.

Any  thoughts or ideas?

Thanks, JH

-- 

John Hoaglun
NG0R -  EN25
http://www.hoaglun.com


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[Elecraft] K2 Question - First Power on test results

2008-03-15 Thread AJSOENKE
I am at the first power on test stage of K2 # 6281 and have anomalous  
readings.  Should be INFO 250 or 7100.0 c 
What I get is  ELECrAFT  followed a few seconds later  by  0 ? 50.0  c (or 
u,r,etc)
 
Turning VFO dial does not change frequencies as expected but changes to 1 5  
15.1   and other strangeness.
 
After that I can hit DISP and read normal voltages. Power display works  when 
power adjusted, keyer speed adjusts ok. RIT/XIT is adjustable but the  range 
is like 23253 +/-.  So, many things work correctly for a rig that's  only 
partially built, and other things are incoherent. I can access menus and  use 
edit. Most things are OK but no frequency display that makes sense.   Component 
value and placements checked and rechecked and all solder connections  
reflowed. 
 MCU chips 1.09 and 2.04 swapped with working K2 and replaced  with no 
indication of fault.
 
Due to all the playing around with the FP and Control Board I am suspicious  
that the eeprom may have been exposed to some random resetting that is 
confusing  the issues.
 
Does anyone have a 'reset to default'  procedure that might take us  back to 
the starting point?
 
Anyone else ever see this kind of behaviour?
 
I have half a dozen highschoolers who are afraid they have broke the pooch  
but I can find no visible signs of an error.  ESD practices were  scrupulously 
adhered to and swapping parts with a working K2 hasn't uncovered  anything, so 
far.
 
73,  Al WA6VNN 



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[Elecraft] K2 mojo lives on

2008-03-15 Thread AJSOENKE
After my prior post:
 
In a message dated 3/14/2008 11:15:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I am at the first power on test stage of K2 # 6281  and have anomalous  
readings.  Should be INFO 250 or 7100.0 c  
What I get is  ELECrAFT  followed a few seconds later   by  0 ? 50.0  c (or 
u,r,etc) . . . and so on 
 
Following receipt of the message from Gary,KI4GGX,
 
Holding 4 + 5 + 6 at power up does a factory  reset.  However, this will 
blow away any alignment that you have performed  to date.
 
I performed the reset and within 10 seconds all the readings were normal.  
Good news for my class because the students didn't make any mistakes and the 
rig 
 will finish on schedule. 
 
Also, more convincing evidence the Mojo lives on - maybe more so because of  
the members of the list and the endless good commentary that is the lifeblood 
of  our 'hobby'!
 
73 es tnx agn Gary,  Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key

2008-03-03 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 3/3/2008 12:28:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The finger tabs on this keyer are they held  by rivets or screws?  On my
other Bencher the finger tabs are held by  rivets and the dit paddle is
getting loose which is a bit annoying.   Anyone have any tips on this or
info on the hex?

Thanks much  gentlemen.

~Brett  (KC7OTG)
___

They are button head screws with a very small hex socket (.05 maybe)
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack ESD mat doesn't meet spec

2008-02-27 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/27/2008 9:54:12 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well, I've convinced myself that  the Radio Shack portable ESD mat, P/N
276-2370 doesn't work  properly.

The ESD Association http://www.esda.org has promulgated  an
industry-standard test for ESD mats, ESD S4.1.  It is the  standard
specified by most commercial mats.  I decided not to spring for  the $70
to buy a copy of the standard, but other information I found on the  web
describes the test in general terms.  It uses two circular  electrodes,
each weighted with 5 pounds, spaced 10 inches apart on the  mat.  The
Point to Point Resistance is specified to be:

At  40-60% RH: 10^6 - 10^7 ohms
At 20-40% RH: 10^7 - 10^8 ohms
At 10-20% RH:  10^8 - 10^9 ohms

I don't know what the RH here in Santa Rosa was  yesterday when I did the
test, but I don't think it was very low since it has  been raining
recently and the ground is still damp.  For sure the  resistance
shouldn't be below 10^9 ohms (1 gigohm) and probably more like  10^8 or
10^7 (100 or 10 megohms).

I measured 2.5 x 10^10 ohms (25  gigohms), which puts the Radio Shack mat
way out of spec.

Test  procedure:

I didn't find a specification on the electrode size, but in  the photo of
a popular tester they look to be maybe 3 or 4 inches in  diameter.  For
my test, the electrodes were two saucepans, each about 7  inches in
diameter and weighted with 5 pounds.  They were spaced 10  inches apart
on the mat (3 inches edge-to-edge).  I connected a 0.1 uF  film capacitor
between the two pans and charged it to 15V with a power  supply.  

I set my ancient Simpson analog volt-ohm meter to 60 uA  full scale.  If
I touch the leads across the capacitor immediately after  charging, the
needle momentarily jumps to about 6 uA (1/10 full scale) as  the
capacitor discharges through the meter.  If I wait half an hour  (1800
seconds) for the capacitor to partially discharge through the  mat
resistance, the needle jumps to about 3 uA.

An R-C network  discharges to 3/6 of original voltage in about 0.7 time
constant.  So  the time constant must be 1800/0.7 = 2571 seconds.  That
implies the mat  resistance is 2571 sec / 0.1 uF ~= 2.5 x 10^10 ohms.  

Al  N1AL


___
Did the test standard you used tell you what the test device voltages  should 
be. Also, most Static dissipative mats have a texture which can  
significantly reduce the actual surface contact area affecting the readings  
considerably. 
 I still think the best way to test is to fabricate a simple  electrometer 
and connect the sensor (after charging) to the surface through  contact. That 
will tell you very quickly if it is working. Point to this is the  voltage of a 
transistor amplified Ohmmeter is very low these days. A standard  VOM is 
usually  1.5 volts and many FET DVM is much lower because they are  also used 
to 
test semiconductors and capacitors. ESD that is damaging is at  least a few 
hundred volts. Most ESD workstations are certified to 1000 volts or  more.
 
Don't throw out the RS mat yet. The highest quality mil spec'd mats  may  
cost you a lot more and not buy you anything. One big point - Mats do  age and 
dry out becoming useless in a matter of a few years.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX on CW

2008-02-27 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/27/2008 2:32:05 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I would point out that in order to work DXpeditions  such as VP6DX
on CW, realistically, all that is required is the ability to  recognize your 
own call.
Your report will be 5NN or, perhaps 599. Your  response is something
like TU 5NN BK or QSL 5NN BK or just 5NN BK,  easily stored
in a memory. If you have the K3 cw decode ability you may not  even
need to recognize your call! Do I approve of this type of operation?  Not
really but anyting that encourages cw operation is a  plus.

73,
Doug
W6JD
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OTOH, the requirement for a QSL is to establish and confirm 2-way contact.  
At the rate they were making contacts, sometimes five or six a minute, I'd say  
the requirement was adequately met when they returned my call accurately. BTW 
 'VNN' to most contesters and DX  just sounds like the tail of another 5NN -  
which sure doesn't make it any easier. After 4 hours of listening to them  
working Northern Europe, I was never quite sure if it was my call coming back 
or 
 an RST. 
 
The best part of the contacts with VP6DX was working 12, 17, 1nd 30 M for  
the first time on an 80 M Dipole, and working RTTY with the bug. 
 
73  es CUL, AL WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] VP6DX scraping the bottom

2008-02-27 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/27/2008 5:19:21 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
David Ferrington, M0XDF  wrote:
 I managed on 80m SSB at 07:25z the other day. Ok is was 120w, but  I got a
 good 59, so I think 10 might have made it.

I tried, for an hour. There was simply no chance against all the  
stronger, mainly Southern Europeans trying for their 3rd or 4th band  
contact. When they did come up a bit stronger and some of the Eastern EU  
faded, they went off to 7.29MHz to work the USA. All this was SSB.  CW  
was not an option for me as unfortunately, VP6DX never seemed to slow  
down in their CW for those of us limited in ability to around 15WPM. I  
can see why as they make more contacts that way, but the speed they were  
going it was nearly impossible for me to tell what was going on, when to  
call  etc.

Mike
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Well at least I feel better now about needing up to 4 hours to work what is  
usually a 'slam dunk' QSO from SoCal. I listened to VP6DX for many hours on 
many  bands with solid (rapid fire) contacts to North Atlantic/European 
stations. I  don't think  you could blame a weak signal - just phenomenal pile  
ups!
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 New Problems after MCU 1.69 update - OT humor

2008-02-21 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/21/2008 3:57:57 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Anyone else have this???  

My toast has been coming out burned on one side ONLY
AFTER the MCU  1.69 update. 

Before the update my toast always came out perfect.  I
have never unplugged nor moved my toaster, so I know
it's not that.  

What the #$%^ are you folks doing with my K3
firmware???  !!!

Please advise. 

** No I never thought to email  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
directly, this is the ONLY email address I know how  to
use. 

;-) 
___

Don't know about the toast, but my sideband selection is very one sided. I  
remember the upgrade that drove the display to the popular sideband, but 
haven't  yet located the note with instructions to invoke the other sideband. 
 
On a good note - I was bemoaning the fact that I don't have a WARC  band 
antenna up at the moment and I wanted to work the guys on Ducie on 17M they  
were 
very loud this afternoon. Hit the ATU Tune on the K3 and my 80M dipole  
instantly became a 1:1 match on  18.7MHz. Worked 'em 599 (honest 599) and  went 
to 
30 M. Again the  ant tuned to 1.2:1 and could hear lots of activity  but no 
VP6DX yet so I worked a few East coast.  I cannot complain about the  ATU in 
the 
K3 - first rate.  Now, back to the SSB issue. . .
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #441 received

2008-02-19 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/19/2008 3:17:50 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
From my posting from  last week:
- Ordered (with 50% deposit) 6 June 2007 with subsequent  modifications.
- Received and responded to Lisagram late Tuesday, 12 Feb  2008.
- Called by Madeline for final payment info on Thursday, 14 Feb.
-  Received UPS shipping notice late that same day. Scheduled delivery is 
19  Feb.

Update:
- Received K3/100 kit today (Tuesday, 19 Feb) as  promised.

Now I have a big decision to make. Should I drive up to Boulder  from 
Denver to see Rob Sherwood's talk or stay home and assemble my new  toy?

Other alternatives that I've considered that would give Rob another  K3 
sample to test:
- Assemble it when I get back home around midnight. No  - I really need 
my beauty sleep and generally function badly when I'm  tired.
- Let Rob assemble and align it himself. No - someone will say he's  too 
expert and that would bias the results.
- Assemble it later when my  workload permits. But I might be 
disqualified for being an electronics  engineer and firmware developer 
who might tweak the performance in  Elecraft's favor.
- Have my daughter, an art historian, assemble and align  it. Oops, can't 
do that - she's living in France.

Oh my, what to  do?

Gus  Hansen
KB0YH

___

Align a K3 
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!

2008-02-18 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/17/2008 8:20:51 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

- Original Message -  
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:44  PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] My Lisagram arrived!


 As a native  of the USA married to a native of the 
 Netherlands, my favorite
  is this:

 What do you call someone who speaks two languages?  
 Answer: Bilingual.

 What do you call someone who  speaks one language? 
 Answer: An American.

 Ron  AC7AC


And, unfortunately, not very well as a general  rule!

Dave  W7AQK


___

Don't be surprised if you see things changing in the future.  I've  been 
involved with technology engineering in foreign markets for over 40 years  and  
teaching in a high school technology program for over 20 of those  years. Now 
I'm retired from engineering and teaching 4 classes a day at the  nearby high 
school. I'm certificated staff and that requires me to be fluent in  several 
languages. Locally that's English, Spanish, and several asian dialects.  As 
luck 
would have it my parents were/are fluent in German and I studied French,  
neither of which has been of great value except in the case  of Vietnamese.  
Anyway - the point is the students in one class of 21  alone are an aggregate 
of 5 
different languages and we freely use them in  classroom dialogue to 
communicate with each other - that's the trend of the  future.  Why do I bother 
with 
this? Teaching technology is only as good as  your ability to communicate and 
these students will be in high demand for their  ability. I already have two 
kids who just realized they have relatives in a  position  to export from our 
number one exporter (China) and have found a  renewed interest in their 
education. (Ever wish you could talk to the guy who  designed your motherboard) 
For a 
lot of people, you call someone who speaks two  languages Boss.
 
 73 es gud luck in the contest : )
 
Al WA6VNN
 
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Front Panel Icons

2008-02-17 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/17/2008 3:45:27 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
All of a sudden, I'm  getting a strange icon on every band change. It 
appears momentarily only.  Looks like an antenna symbol with a bar across 
the top.

Has anyone  any idea what this icon represents, it's probably due to some 
menu change  I've inadvertently made, not seen it previously.

Thanks

Mal G4KFT  K3 #263
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The Inverted Triangle With a vertical line through it is a standard  
schematic symbol for an antenna.
Look at the K3 Op Manual last page - Block diagram - upper right  corner.
 
It will appear when you assign an antenna a name by holding down the ANT  
button.
 
Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KBPF3 and KFL3A-6K

2008-02-11 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 2/11/2008 8:35:24 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Roger, I have been lobbying  from the sidelines that
when the (not yet available) FM filter is ready  that
it should be usable for AM and FM reception both,
because 5 khz is  not enough IMO. SSB reception through
this filter also makes sense to me.  

At present, if you don't have the AM 5khz filter, the
2.7 khz filter  is used on receive and there is no AM
transmit. 

The FM filter is  supposed to be ready by the end of
this week, don't know if it will be or if  the firmware
is ready for FM, my cat control program cannot set the
FM  mode yet.

All of these are fine tuning details, the radio  is
absolutely worthy of getting serious  about!!!




[Elecraft] K3: KBPF3 and KFL3A-6K
Roger Marrotte  rmarrotte at verizon.net 
Mon Feb 11 20:38:21 EST 2008 

I'm finally  getting serious about buying a K3.  Up
until now I have not paid much  attention to all the
details, especially those concerning  the
filters.  For now I'll not get the 2nd RX.  It's  not
available yet, so
maybe I'll get it later on. I'll get a couple of  CW
filters for now. I do
mostly CW.  I'll get a narrow 1.8KHz SSB  filter.  I do
get on SSB sometimes.
I sometimes like to listen to AM  but will probably
never transmit on AM.
I've read the archives but I'm  still not absolutely
clear about the need for
the KFL3A-6K filter in  addition to the KBPF3 filter
for AM listening.  I see
the need for  the KBPF3 for AM listening outside the
ham bands.  What will
the  KFL3A-6K filter do for a casual AM listener?  Will
there be a  noticeable
narrowing of the AM signal without it?  If the AM  will
sound better and/or
be better filtered with it, I might as well get  it. 
I'm cheap but not that
cheap.

Roger, W1EM

+++
 
I believe the only real issue with the FM filter in AM mode is in  
transmitting and risking out of bandwidth transmission. The DSP would need to  
hold the 
AM XMIT to the legal limit if the XTAL filter doesn't.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ssb tx passband

2008-01-26 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/23/2008 7:11:35 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Are ssb tx passband  adjustments in the K3 limited to TX EQ?  If so, is 
there
 a spec on  what the tx audio passband is adjusted to at the factory with the
 stock  2.7Khz filter?

The default Tx Audio passband is 250 Hz to 3150 Hz.   Its adjustment is 
not yet part of the user interface, but will  be.

73,

Lyle  KK7P

___

I see the anticipated response. 
 
Now I begin to think and wonder if we should expect the K3 to also retain  
some of it's unique flavor, something that has made it special among the many. 
I 
 like most of these suggestions but am concerned that there is too much 
emphasis  being placed on making it the same as 5 or 6 existing other rigs. I'd 
prefer a  catalog of firmware to emulate a variety of different rigs. That way, 
maybe some  of us simpler folks could retain the features that are most 
meaningful to our  way of operating.
May I be so bold as to suggest a suite of features for the CW op that is  
separate to the Phone OP or the 
Data OP. I see that with the correct firmware dejour we could sweep  the 
market with the ideal SDR rig with a knob on it.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] what?

2008-01-23 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/23/2008 3:49:18 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Is the list being actively filtered? The  endless stream of griping,
carping, whining emails seems to have stopped  (thank goodness).


MikeW5FTD



__
 
A lot of them got their rigs in the last two weeks  ;-)
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Diffuser Again

2008-01-20 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/20/2008 10:07:21 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The build of K2 #6358  has hit a road block!

I have a couple of questions concerning the  backlight/diffuser:

1.  The leads are too short.  About a week  ago Gerard, PA3GP, proposed
extending  the leads by soldering short extensions.  He got  no
responses so I assume this is a safe  way to proceed.

2.  The diffuser has what I assume are polarity  markings.  Each LED has
the leads  marked with 'A' and 'K' and the board has a '+'   
indicated
for each  diode.   Can I assume that the 'K' is the '+',  or do  
I  not  care?


Thanks!

Tony
ke6g
___

1.  I agree, but they did fit without modifying the process on #6281,  but 
definitely shorter than #4887.
 
2. You do not care, as far as K2. 'K' has always meant Cathode (-) to avoid  
confusion with 'C'  for Capacitance? or maybe because of the German  language 
origins.  In any even the device is symmetrical and cannot be  installed 
incorrectly from the front side.
 
My students, 10-12th grade had a little trouble figuring the plastic  
diffusion screen until they read the FAQs on it. We have the front panel done,  
the 
KAT2 KIO2 done and will start the RF Board as soon as the control board  (1/2 
done) is complete.  
 
73,  Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 SN#207 built but question on AM Filter

2008-01-12 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/12/2008 3:40:37 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi All
just built my K3  up to the 10 watt level (still to fit the 100w pa) have 
been giving it a quick  test and have a question, i have fitted the AM filter 
in 
FL2 (The FM will go in  FL1) and the stock filter in FL3 (2.7KHz), i have set 
the filters for all modes  and set FL2 (6KHz) for AM mode and also selectable 
in SSB Modes.
now when i  select SSB and tune to a AM signal i can alter the bandwidth to 
anything up to  6KHz, when i switch to AM i can only adjust the bandwidth up to 
3KHz , the audio  sounds like it is a 3KHz filter too, what am i doing wrong 
since i cant set the  6KHz bandwidth in AM.
any ideas???
regards
Paul M0BMN
K3 S/N 207

 
It's working OK. AM bandwidth includes both sidebands.  Also, if you  tune in 
an AM station using AM mode and then switch to a SSB mode, you will note  a 
change in the fidelity (audio band response). There was much discussion on the  
list a while ago on the subject. I'm looking toward the release of the fm 
filter  that should be in excess of 12 Khz, thus improving the fidelity. The 
advantage  of the 6 KHz filter in AM is primarily for transmitting, to maintain 
a 
legal  bandwidth, and to eliminate the heterodynes to some degree.
 
Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone capsule for K2

2008-01-07 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/6/2008 6:21:57 A.M. Pacific  Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have a MH2, and going back  and reviewing the SSB passband and filter
alignment helped me quite a  bit.  It sounds fine, though I heard through
another on the list that  they had success with their Proset with HC5
without the preamp.  I tried  it out with a friend listening, and it
worked just fine, and is now what I  use.  I do notice that it is
impacted by the nearness of the mic to my  mouth, so it would likely have
more dynamic activity with a preamp, but I am  driving to a full signal
with the current setup.

If you are not  getting good reports with the MH2, then switching to
another, similar mic (or  even the HC5) will not help.  First thing you
need to do is check you  passband, make sure they start at 300hz and then
listen to both U  L  sideband on another rig.
-  

David  Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Sun, 2008-01-06  at 13:29 +0100, Karsten Eppert (DK4AS) wrote:
 I have purchased together  with my K2 an MH2 microphone short before it 
 was discontinued two years  ago.
 The reports I receive always state, that the mike has too much  bass.
 The filters of my K2 were checked with spectrogram and - to me -  appear 
 correct.
 
 In parallel I have tried a cheap  boomset with an electret-mike. That 
 resulted in unfavourable reports  like sounds like a c-class-amplifier. 
 Too little bias current. So I  checked the bias and it is ok.
 
 Well - I?m looking for a good  alternative now, but which one to select?
 
 Go for a Heil Proset  K2? I figure, that one contains the Heil 
 iC-electret-capsule. But what  are the specs?
 
 Go and replace the electret-capsule of my MD2  with a Heil HC-5-capsule? 
 What disadvantages will I have with such  solution regarding frequency 
 response as the HC-5 apparently is a  dynamic or condenser mike?
 
 Can anybody share his experience  with me?
 
 73
 Karsten
 DK4AS
 K2  #4764
 ___
web page: _http://www.elecraft.com_ (http://www.elecraft.com)   

I have run the Proset HC5 and the Elecraft Proset Which has an electret mic  
element and found them to both work well and also sound very much alike.  I  
ran the checks while beta testing the IMA (Internal Mic  Adapter) produced by 
UN-PCB. _http://www.unpcbs.com/_ (http://www.unpcbs.com/) 
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 question

2008-01-07 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 1/7/2008 3:23:00 P.M. Pacific  Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Can someone tell  me what the cabinet color of the K3 is? I at first
thought it was a brown  color, then I thought I saw someone remark that is
had been changed to black.  Now I see remarks about using a black magic
marker to hide the chipped paint.  Is it black or brown?

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N  4216

___

The K3 has always been Black, from the demo model I saw on 4/28/07 at  
Visalia to the SN031 that was delivered to my door on 11/2/07.  The VWR lab  
marker 
CAT # 52877-310 is Black 
_http://www.vwrsp.com/catalog/product/index.cgi?catalog_number=52877-140inE=1highlight=52877-140_
 
(http://www.vwrsp.com/catalog/product/index.cgi?catalog_number=52877-140inE=1highlight=52877-140)
 
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] As good as it gets...for now?

2007-12-31 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/31/2007 8:49:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Folks,

After a 2+ year hiatus from  RadioActivity, I finished up a K2 build,
and tried getting on the air a  bit--UGH dismal results! During the
recent ARCI Homebrew Sprint I made 3  contacts, 1 in WA and 2 in ID,
I'm in OR. Me and a friend back in CO have  tried two or three times
for a scheduled QSO--no luck we could just barley  hear each other. One
one of those attepts my freind was using a beam and 100W  of power.
More troubling is the lack of signals I'm hearing. Before each of  the
activities I mentioned I would tune around the bands to assess  band
conditions, I could hear no more than 5 or 6 other stations.  I
couldn't hear any of the NCDXF beacons--Are they still operational?  I
can hear WWV @ 10MHz 5x9.

Set up here is QRP K2, and a Superantennas  PW-1. Now before everybody
jumps on the PW-1--NO PW-1/ANY OTHER ANTENNA   BASHING!!! I mean it!
:-) I had a PW-1 in CO and it worked great! (  see
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/NewPics/n0rc_vw_foxhound_front.jpg
for  one example)

Do I have a problem with my K2--I'm thinking not. With an  XG-1 signal
generator set to 1uV I can hear it fine on 40, and the harmonics  on 20
and 15m.

Is it my QTH? I have a city lot, the back yard is only  9m x 6m (30' X
20'), surrounded by one story houses on each side. The PW-1 in  placed
in the center. Further, I live in a river valley abt 275m (900Ft)  ASL.
The valley is surrounded by low mountains 900-1200m (3-4k Ft) AL  abt
10 miles away.

I have no other radio equipment, (or access to) to  try A/B
comparisons. I can not and will not change my antenna setup, I  want
nothing permanent outside. I have no room to set up take  down
temporary wire antennas. I WILL NOT MOVE TO A DIFFERENT QTH. I  WILL
NOT SPEND ANYMORE MONEY ON RADIO EQUIPMENT--I am at  an
economic/financial sweet spot all things [radio/non-radio]  considered.

So given my circumstances and the current lull in solar  activity...

Is this as good as it gets?
--
73 Rod, Ai7NN   ~*~*~Happy Holidays~*~*~
__
 
 
Hang in there, Ron. Yeah!, the bands really are sucking right now, but  there 
are moments. Like just after I got my K3 on the air I worked 60 new  
countries in the CQWW on my 50 year old mosely vertical. It wasn't just the K3. 
 Sure 
I could hear them, but so could lots of others, and they could   hear me too!  
My K2 could work them as well. There are a couple good  contest weekends 
coming up this month (Jan) so get ready and maybe we'll be  surprised with good 
activity.  Personally, I think so many hams are sold on  the premise that 
there's no one out there, that they don't even try. But the  contest activity - 
not 
great - demonstrates the contacts can be made. 
 
CU there - WA6VNN,   Al



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Initialization time

2007-12-31 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/30/2007 3:42:03 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Gentlemen:

I noticed  that several of the other highly computerized radios on the market
have a  substantial time delay after power on before the radio is fully
operational  (IC756Pro, IC7800, etc.).  Would some of the current K3 owners
please  let me know how long before their radio display settles down and the
radio is  fully operational?  Does this time vary according to certain
accessories  being present or configuration options being chosen?  Thank you.

73,  Forrest WA3FAE
___

Never timed it? 2 or 3 seconds maybe. 
 
Firmware upgrades take less than a minute when the rig is connected online  
at 9600baud.
 
Several SDRs have built-in  processors that need to boot the O/S a la  PC 
style.
 
My first 'real' rig was an SX101MkIII (hallicrafters) had a built in heater  
for stability and trickle current in the filaments (what are they?) and would 
be  full on in a couple seconds too. Not bad for a vacuum tube rig. Also had a 
50KHz  IF that was very selective. 
 
73 de Al WA6VNN  K3 #31
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Initialization time

2007-12-31 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/31/2007 9:46:26 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
In a message dated 12/30/2007 3:42:03 P.M.   Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Gentlemen:

I  noticed  that several of the other highly computerized radios on the  
market
have a  substantial time delay after power on before the radio is  fully
operational  (IC756Pro, IC7800, etc.).  Would some of the  current K3 owners
please  let me know how long before their radio  display settles down and the
radio is  fully operational?  Does  this time vary according to certain
accessories  being present or  configuration options being chosen?  Thank you.

73,  Forrest  WA3FAE
___

Never timed it?  2 or 3 seconds maybe. 

Firmware upgrades take less than a minute when the  rig is connected online  
at 9600baud.

Several SDRs have  built-in  processors that need to boot the O/S a la  PC  
style.

My first 'real' rig was an SX101MkIII (hallicrafters) had a  built in heater  
for stability and trickle current in the filaments  (what are they?) and 
would 
be  full on in a couple seconds too. Not bad  for a vacuum tube rig. Also had 
a 
50KHz  IF that was very selective.  

73 de Al WA6VNN  K3  #31

++
Rechecked it on timer: 3.72 seconds to full audio from power on,
 
Al WA6VNN






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Re: [Elecraft] Bit the bullet

2007-12-29 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/29/2007 10:04:34 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I placed an order for a K3/100 yesterday. It looks like  an April/May 
delivery, but given all I have heard from this group it will be  well 
worth the wait. Now to sell my OMNI VI+.

Dennis, K7FL
Battle  Ground, WA

 
 
That's not 'Biting the bullet, That's 'Smelling the Roses
 
73  de Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Which Heil Prosets should we carry?

2007-12-29 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/29/2007 1:58:22 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My Baptism of  Fire was with MD4K on the IOM in CQWW MM .
Thirty seconds after the contest  started I was in shock..Five 
other operators, all in the same small room  shouting their heads 
off. Transmitting  CQ and callsign, and hearing  the same said by 
others, albeit not quite in sync is quite off-putting  !

That fact they are GOOD OPERATORS was shown in the results table  
when it was published. They managed just fine.

The Heil headsets were  about as good as a Chocolate Fire Guard, 
however eventually my brain  started filtering out the background 
noise. 

73
Stewart  G3RXQ

++
 
The fact is the QRM is in the shack!! Now picture this:  5 guys all in  a 
room with K3s and DVR active. All audio optimized for best transmitter  
performance and full quieting while the contesters concentrate on  listening. 
 We 
shall be so lucky!!! 
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Major critisism of the K3 - possible easy fix!

2007-12-29 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/29/2007 6:19:25 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The damn bail stand is too  high !!!


 
I've noticed it's a little on the high side for folks with  smaller  hands 
than I. Aside from that, the viewing angle is ideal, which can be a real  
hassle 
when its 'flat'.  I've taken a look at the Bail legs and the plastic  foot 
that holds them.  It appears that with a little tool work (not for  everyone, I 
agree) a notch could be formed on the outside of the plastic foot,  similar 
to that on the inside except at a lower angle. This would make the  bail 
height selectable depending on which direction the foot was installed. I  may 
try 
this out when I'm not real busy playing Ham.  The feet are common  part so 
I'm not afraid to try.
 
An alternative might be to purchase on of the commonly available wrist pads  
used by computer users to rest the wrist in front of the mouse or keyboard at 
a  higher angle.  The gel types are quite comfortable and come in many sizes  
and the viewing angle is unaffected this way.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Which Heil Prosets should we carry - boom mics

2007-12-29 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/29/2007 4:51:25 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

- Original Message -  
From: Tom Childers, N5GE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft List  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 12:15  AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which Heil Prosets should we carry?

Well,  since everyone else seems to be putting their oar in for what they
really  want, I will to.  I use headset/mic combos most of the time if I
operate  SSB (not very often though).  But it would be nice to not have to
use  the headphones for a comfortable QSO.  Problem is, a desk mike just  adds
to the clutter on my desk.  That premium space is already taken up  by a
laptop (or keyboard), my paddle, my pencil/pen, paper, and most  importantly
my coffee cup!  Seriously, am I the only one who has to  shift things around
in front of me while operating?  And wouldn't a desk  mike just add to the
problem?

I would like to see some kind of  gooseneck type microphone (perhaps with the
IC element) that would easily  attach and detach from the K3, or a K2.
Maybe some sort of brace or bracket  that would clamp across the top of the
K3, and had some sort of quick  release.  It would have to be padded so as to
not mar the K3.  The  gooseneck would lock into some kind of clamp on top of
the bracket, and be a  quick release type also.  The gooseneck should
probably be approx. 24 to  30 inches or so long (maybe more) so it reaches
from the rig to, or  near,  the front edge of your desk so you can easily
speak into  it.  You could further adjust the distance by where you place  the
bracket on the K3--either towards the front, or more towards the  rear.  Then
you could swing the microphone into position or out of the  way, but it
wouldn't add to the clutter on the desk in front of  you.

Tall order, right?  Yeah, I know--I'm dreaming.  And it  really doesn't
respond very directly to Eric's question.  But I'd buy  something like this
if it were available.  Maybe it already is  somewhere.  I don't keep up very
well with microphone stuff.

Dave  W7AQK

+
 
FWIW, I agree and its not a tall order, it's already available directly  from 
Heil.  _www.heilsound.com_ (http://www.heilsound.com) 
 
I prefer the flexible boom that looks like a piece of conduit, used on many  
lamps and mirrors. There is also a vendor advertised in QST that sells  mobile 
components for mounting control heads that can be adapted to a mic, just  get 
the heil mic for handheld and mount it in a holder then you have 2 in  1  
handheld or boom mount. The heil booms are not real flexible and base  mounted. 
The flex heads I have can be mounted using common electrical/plumbing  supplies 
and can be hung from above (check out the professional talk show  stations) 
or from a side panel.  Also look at Heils professional line , not  just the 
Amateur Radio pages.
 
Check these: _http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdList.asp?off=0sort=prod_ 
(http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdList.asp?off=0sort=prod) 
 
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Shouting at the Mic? (WAS: Which Heil Prosets should we carry?)

2007-12-29 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/29/2007 3:01:31 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Good evening, morning,  day or night,

 That's why air traffic controllers, emergency service  dispatchers and many
 others are carefully taught to *never* raise their  voices on the air. They
 need to be heard, and heard correctly, as  quickly as possible. 

I suppose it might be a question of definition of  what a raised voice is.

I'll never forget the first time I was in a  studio during the 6PM news 
(actually it was shortly before 7PM) and was very  surprised at the 
volume which the anchor used to speak. He did not shout  (you breath 
differently when you shout) but he talked loudly.

I have  heard this time and time again at work over the years, a loud 
voice is  better than one which is too low. This does not mean shouting 
or yelling!  According the sound techs this has something to do with the 
dynamic range of  the speech and allows lower microphone gain, which 
reduces the audio impact  of the room surrounding the speaker. Also lower 
microphone gain has the  advantage of picking less unwanted noise.

When I referred to shouting I  put in quotes on purpose, because I wanted 
to point out that when trying to  fish out a week one, even a normal 
level voice will seem like  shouting.


 
In a broadcast studio, you have sound engineers monitoring everything that  
goes in and out of the transmitter, modulation levels are high priority. So a  
good sounding announcer is where it starts, a good engineer is where it  flows.
 
Ham Ops need to be both!
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Which Heil Prosets should we carry?

2007-12-28 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/28/2007 10:07:02 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Elecraft needs a desk  microphone in it's product line.  

The stiff cord on the MH-2 is  capable of dragging the 
radio around the desk before it yields.  It's  very stiff.

I have a Heil Goldline w/desk stand that gives me the  
choice of switching between cartridges ... the best of 
both  worlds.

I also have  a ProSet with an HC-5 cartridge.

73! Ken  Kopp - K0PP
K2 #5665
K3 #56


 
I agree with the Heil Goldline and a desk stand. I used an Astatic dynamic  
mic with a boom holder for years and really liked it.
I have both the Heil Proset 5 and the Elecraft Proset K-2. Different type  
mic elements but they both work equally well on my K2 and K3 and several other  
rigs. The desk mic is the only addition I'd like to see, preferably a design  
that will work hand-held as well as on a stand or arm.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Pictures/Road Trip Pictures!

2007-12-27 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/26/2007 7:37:49 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I'm back from my week-long  road trip, and I finally have pictures from
my trip online, plus the pictures  from my K2  build...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/af6fh/collections/

(Note: If  you're offended by pictures of ham radios and stuffed
animals in close  proximity, you probably shouldn't look... :-)

I actually didn't do much  radio stuff on my trip; it was my first road
trip ever, and at times just  getting from one place to another was as
much as I could handle! However, I  did set my K2 up in the field,
which was good practice, because I expect to  be doing more of that in
the future. My road-trip kit needs a little  refinement, too, and I'll
have to work on that a bit. (Expect questions  later!)

Sarah AF6FH

 
Sarah,
I'm pleased that you took the time to stop in Gaviota and snap a few photos  
of the rest stop as well. 
I live a few miles down the road toward Santa Barbara.  The dead trees  you 
saw are more of a bush when foliated and were actually the remains of a burn  
that swept through the area about 3 years ago. The protracted draught in this  
area has delayed the usual re-growth considerably. This area is noted for its  
daily high winds and that contributes somewhat to the vulnerability to fires. 
I  hope you had a chance to turn towards the beach area a 1/4 milesouth 
and have a look at one of the nicest beaches on the Cal  coast. know  for a 
very wide expanse of pure white sand I have spent quite a few days as a  
youngster playing there.
 
The shot up hill at the ridge on the west side has a very interesting  
feature we cal the 'elephant'. It's most noticeable when in the southbound 101  
as 
you approach from the canyon. along the ridgeback is a formation of rocks  that 
look like a small family of elephants - mom,  pop, and a couple young,  as 
they trudge up the ridge tail in trunk with the lead elephants trunk/head and  
right ear very pronounced. Mostly only locals who travel the road frequently 
are  aware of it.
 
Hope the rest of trip was fun and love the K2!
 
Al WA6VNN   -  K2 4887, 6281, K3 31 



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] If you think that eHam reviews are, at times, strange...

2007-12-18 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/18/2007 1:18:15 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
...then you haven't  seen this

_http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bic-Crystal-ballpoint-medium-point/dp/customer-review
s/B000JTOYLS/_ 
(http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bic-Crystal-ballpoint-medium-point/dp/customer-reviews/B000JTOYLS/)
 
___

Don't believe it until you see it - seek the BORAT stamp of approval  only!!
 
My first experience with a ball point pen was in 1953 when I was going  
door-to-door as a newsboy selling subscriptions. I broke the pencil tip while I 
 
was writing a subscription for a neighbor of mine, and he offered up a strange  
looking pen with a toggle on top to push the pen tip down. Bright purple 
plastic  with a dark violet ink. The only thing that was remarkable of the 
memory 
is who  the customer was. Living in North Hollywood at the time, you'd meet a 
lot of  people. This neighbor was the family of 'Mouseketeer' Karen Pendelton. 
Who was a  few years younger than me. 8 -)
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Open Letter ....

2007-12-14 Thread AJSOENKE
Never had this happen with a Yaesu - never had the opportunity!  Is there a 
value that can be placed on choice? I'm glad Elecraft gave me a choice.

Al WA6VNN 
K3 #31
K2 #4887
K2 #6281



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SWR Fold-back

2007-12-12 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/11/2007 11:40:11 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
You don't suppose trying to  use an 80-meter dipole on 160 had anything to do 
with it, do  you?

K9ZTV



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I don't know if  this will help, but I've had two experiences with my K3 
regarding power  reduction. While attempting to participate in the 160M 
contest, I 
connected  to my 80M dipole and hit tune in the ATU active mode. I 
immediately 
got a  high SWR and retune cycle which reduced the SWR at the rig to ~ 10:1.  
Checking the power output, which had been set at 106W, it was indicating  
79W.  
During a second subsequent tune (same ant and same settings ) the  rig 
initiated 
a tune cycle and immediately shut down. No overpower/high  current 
indication. 
I turned the rig on again, and everything was the same  as before.  I suspect 
maybe the tune was marginal and that at that SWR  the rig is between a 
'continue 
or shutdown' logic process. No residual  effects were noted.

Al WA6VNN K3 #31

Of course it had everything to do with it -  but an experiment is an  
experiment - I like to see what a well designed radio can really do. Besides I  
made 
a few dozen contacts on the 160M contest and they were the first contacts  
I've made on 160 in 46 years of hamming.  I rather enjoyed it! I hope the  info 
was helpful in answering the question about SWR and rollback. Yes it does  roll 
back, and very gracefully I'd say.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SWR Fold-back

2007-12-11 Thread AJSOENKE
I don't know if this will help, but I've had two experiences with my K3 
regarding power reduction. While attempting to participate in the 160M contest, 
I 
connected to my 80M dipole and hit tune in the ATU active mode. I immediately 
got a high SWR and retune cycle which reduced the SWR at the rig to ~ 10:1. 
Checking the power output, which had been set at 106W, it was indicating 79W.  
During a second subsequent tune (same ant and same settings ) the rig initiated 
a tune cycle and immediately shut down. No overpower/high current indication. 
I turned the rig on again, and everything was the same as before.  I suspect 
maybe the tune was marginal and that at that SWR the rig is between a 'continue 
or shutdown' logic process. No residual effects were noted.
 
Al WA6VNN K3 #31



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Impedance

2007-12-09 Thread AJSOENKE
Also look in Table on Pg 49  Main Menu Table under MIC SEL for  the specific 
settings.
 
Al WA6VNN 



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly

2007-12-09 Thread AJSOENKE
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head  
is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip  
to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a 
large  enough tip to fit snuggly.  There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers 
 
available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good  
indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit,  
the 
result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The K3  
flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip 
easily  with 
a #0 or 'sharp' #1. 
 
I prefer the better brands like Craftsmen and Proto. OSH (Orchards) has a  
house brand that is good. I picked up a couple with 6 shank which was helpful  
when I installed the kpa3 shield. 
 
A well fitting screwdriver will hold an undamaged philips screw without  
needing a magnet.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Ham Radio Deluxe available

2007-12-08 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/8/2007 5:11:35 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
For those with a K3 in the  shack, HRD is now available. There will be a lot 
more support as Wayne adds  CAT-related features.

Folder:  http://www.ham-radio.ch/kits/beta/3.5/1686/

Kit:  http://www.ham-radio.ch/kits/beta/3.5/1686/HRDv035b1686_Full.exe

Simon  Brown, HB9DRV 


+ fantastic +++
 
OK guys - is the K3 worth the wait???
 
1. Read Simons list-mail  10 seconds
 
2. Click on link and download 33.2MB file   33 seconds (OK so  I have High 
Speed)
 
3. Install software while turning on the K3   17 seconds
 
4. Click finish Open HRD
 
5. K3 on screen60 seconds - Priceless!!~
 
Al  WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest

2007-12-08 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/8/2007 3:53:16 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Anybody else having a go  at the 10 meter contest?  Conditions pretty bleak
here in Colorado -  much worse than last year.

So far I have 21 Texas QSOs, 21 local  Colorado, 16 other assorted stateside
and only one DX (Jamaica).  Only  11 multipliers.

Anyone having better luck?  Or a similar tale of  woe?

73
... Craig   AC0DS
+++
 
I gave up after 2 hrs and 2 contacts. Not much ant here, either. I'll try  
again at sunrise.
 
I heard lots of stations riding the ether but nothing lasted long  enough to 
even get a complete call.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] strange K3 behaviour post firmware upgrade

2007-12-04 Thread AJSOENKE
I performed the upgrade V1.45 and have noticed nothing unusual. Check the 
CONFIG to make sure all your options are still ON, just in case something got 
bumped.  My filters are set up starting with FL1, FL2, FL3 - nothing skipped. 
Nothing in the FL4 or FL5 slots (yet)

I always make it a practise to shut down and re-boot the system after making 
firmware upgrade or Config changes that go beyond on-the-fly changes like 
switch the main spkr off.

73 Al WA6VNN  K3 SN31



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Reception below 500 kHz?

2007-12-04 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/4/2007 11:19:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hallo

 I see that the K3 receiver  is spec'd down to 500 kHz.  What about below 
that?  Is it completely  dead (e.g. due to filtering), or is it alive but with 
reduced sensitivity,  selection, etc.?  
 
 Will it even tune below 500 kHz? (I've  seen some receivers that won't tune 
at all below their lower frequency  specification.)

Without having tried it, I do not think you can tune  lower than 500kHz. . .
 
 
+
 
It has a hard stop at 500.000 KHz
 
Al WA6VNN (K3 SN31)
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW

2007-12-03 Thread AJSOENKE
K3 CW for me has been smmoth as silk, and I have a sensitive ear. Only 
deviation I've seen is when I run the  DSP filter at 50 Hs there is somewhat of 
a 
rolling off of the higher frequency components of the tone. But, there is also 
an improved performance of the CMP with the reduction in noise at any BW.

73 Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 displays

2007-12-03 Thread AJSOENKE
Thanks for the contact on 40M. Great Signal!
 
pse QSL  ; ) 
 
Al WA6VNN K3 sn0031
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 issues..

2007-12-03 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 12/3/2007 2:04:14 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have been looking at the reflector  from time to time,
and was shocked to read that the 100 plus K3's that have  shipped
do not have many options they were supposed to have, like
AM mode,  FM mode, AM sync detection, a working noise blanker,
the high accuricy  frequency readout, the variable bandwidth filters.

Did any of the K3's  ever have this stuff, did it ever work on any K3 ever,
and if not, why do  they think they can get it to work, and if they did get
it to work,
how  come its not on the many units that have shipped???

It does not seem  right to ship radios without most of the features
they were supposed to have,  no other manufacturer could get away with that,
or do I have it all wrong and  the things listed above work great on all the
new  K3's?

+++
 
Having had the pleasure of operating my K3 in at least two of the last  three 
major contests, I am so glad to have the rig in my shack, I could only  
express disappointment had I to wait even another month for it. 
 
I can listen to AM quite well for now. The accuricy[sic] of frequency  does 
not lack for precision(1Hz) and accuracy is only limited by the reference  
source (available since the start of shipment). (Why is accuracy so important  
with an AM signal that can be easily zerobeat anyway?) The noise blanker is  
highly effective on the type of noise that can be blanked and is extremely  
adjustable. It'll still be a while before conditions make 10M FM fun again.  
I'll be 
pleased when the AM is fully implemented, although I probably won't  care to 
use it as a transmit mode - mainly SWL there. I am also happy with  Elecraft's 
announcing the rig well in advance, so I didn't waste my time or  money with 
something else. The variable bandwidth filters were not announced  until well 
after the K-3 was announced and made available to purchase.
 
As far as low serial numbers are concerned, if I was worried about that I'd  
have kept the 1967 AC Cobra I had instead of selling it to finance a college  
education. AC Cobra $250,000, College education $priceless..
Having passed up years of hamming to focus on family and career, I would  
have bought the K3 with only a promise of ssb just to get on the air  again.
 
Maybe age has something to do with it or maybe just being the first kid on  
the block thing. I've had more fun with this rig than the last 4 I've had. It  
makes retirement fun while I can still have fun and I've pretty well debunked  
that a weak sunspot cycle is grounds for not working dx. 
But what really intrigues me is this: There has never been a rig available,  
save the K2, with the potential for the future. So many features that can be  
implemented by a firmware change - that doesn't require hardware changes, So  
many possibilities to add features with a hardware plug in!
 
Let's get REAL - This radio NEVER will be finished, it will just keep  
getting better. Wouldn't it be great if our bodies were so well endowed. 
 
I guess I'm a sucker for buying a glass of water that was only half full.  
Some will always be half empty, sorry!
 
73 es my best to all,  Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 5-pole plots

2007-11-30 Thread AJSOENKE
I believe the 5 pole filters are made in house at Elecraft and the 8pole 
filters are sourced to Inrad.

Here's a question - 

I have a perfectly good  Yaesu FT990 and have always wanted a narrow CW 
filter for its 2nd IF ( The first IF has a roofing filter of sorts). Anything 
between 100Hz  and 4/500Hz would be acceptable. The original filter options 
appear to have been Inrad products, and many web references come back to Inrad. 
But 
the well is dry when looking for one. (Anyone out therhave one to sell?)

I haven't had a chance to check the 990 manual for IF freq, but am wondering 
if it is 8215, how difficult could it be to adapt a K3 designed filter to the 
990? The 990 filter board has large enough space to do a 2 step with 
intermediate adapter board. That's something I can handle.

Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Curious behavio

2007-11-29 Thread AJSOENKE
Just to add another slant to the slippery hill, I have a perfectly good  IPaq 
5400 that is a very small computer and has huge storage capacity. It is  
hardly used because it lacks a lot of common interfacing.  It does Blue  tooth, 
WiFi and IR but no USB or RS232 (as if having a laptop weren't difficult  to 
interface). There is a young fellow in Arizona who has interfaces for these  
pocket PCs - so that's the direction I am taking for portability. The Ipaq has 
a  
plug in keyboard and a large enough screen to run decent text. So as far as I  
can see all it needs is an RS232 interface.
 
Comments?
 
Al WA6VNN
 



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[Elecraft] Heil mics and the K3

2007-11-27 Thread AJSOENKE

I hope this helps answer some of the questions about the K3 and support  for 
mics.

First the Heil mics:

It will support the Elecraft  (Heil) Proset K2 and the Heil Proset HC-4 and 
HC-5.

The HC-4 and  HC-5 are very similar, differing mainly in frequency response. 
They are both  unamplified dynamic mics.
 
The ProSet K2 uses a similar mic element with a built in amp referred  to as 
'IC'.  I don't know if the element is a HC-4 or HC-5 but its  very close in 
response to the HC-5 judging from the audio I hear in my mon  signal.
 
They both have a mini phone plug (mono) for the mic that is colored grey. 
 
The Heil Prosets have a standard (1/4) Stereo phone plug for the headset  
speakers. The stretched ot length between the mic and phone plugs just barely  
fits the mic to the rear panel and the phones to the front panel. I didn't like 
 stretching them that much. A 1/4 female to 3.5mm male adapter would help and 
 keep them both on the back for this Proset.
 
The Proset K2 has a mini stereo phone plug that easily allows for both  mic 
and phone plugs in the rear panel. It also has a built in phasing  switch for 
the phones.
 
Setup for the Proset K2 is default on the K3 rig as I received it. For the  
HC-5 I have, it required changes in the menu selects.  Refer to the Owner's  
manual 'MAIN Menu' Table on page 49 under the heading MIC SEL.
 
Tap MENU to get the MAIN menu, rotate VFO B knob to MIC SEL. Note  the 
default setting on display
It may show 'rP.L bias' if it is default. This is the correct setting for  
the Proset K2 Headset.
 
To use a Proset HC-4/5 Headset, first rotate the VFO A dial to  rP.L bias or 
fP.L bias  to select rear panel or front panel  connectors. Next,  tap the [2] 
 (REV) button to turn off the  bias. The display will now indicate  'rF.L' or 
'fP.L'.
 
Next tap the [1] (A/B) button to select the H/L for High mic gain/ Low  mic 
gain.  For the Heil Proset HC-5 which I also use, the  settings will now 
display 'rP.H' . Close the menu. Next set up a phone mode  (LSB/USB) and tap 
XMIT to 
active no transmit TUNE, and speak into the mic so you  can adjust mic gain 
level.  For me that is a setting of about 10. Adjust  the MON for a comfortable 
level and set the mic gain for XMIT output that is  desired or CMP level you 
like. 
 
If you switch mics, be sure to reset the MIC SEL settings. 
 
Aside from pin compatibilities on the 8 Pin connector this should work well  
with most any mic. That applies to PTT also.  IMHO, I would find it most  
effective to wire the mics to a mini phone plug or build a shore 8 Pin to phone 
 
plug adapter. I know many hand mics are plug compatible as is. Consult  the Mic 
jack diagram on page 13 to confirm your mic. 
 
Hope this is helpful.
 
73 de Al WA6VNN  #31



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Curious behavior

2007-11-27 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/27/2007 10:14:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Thanks Thomas.  Gary set me straight on that  one too.  I guess it is 
easy to accidentally change some settings  without realizing it.

Doug -- K0DXV
K3/100 #77

OK, time to be  brutally frank about the K3. I love the rig and it's shaping 
up to the best  radio I've ever owned.
I still haven't even tried out any of the buttons to the right of the afx!  
Just got done wringing out the mic process.
 
BUT, what don't I like ( or more correctly what would I like to see  changed.
 
A)  It's too easy to bump the VFO A dial while in the Menu Modes and  change 
an off to an on. It took Microsoft 20 years to build a half way  functional 
'UNDO' into their O/S and Apps. I'd at least like to have a glimps at  what 
changed when I went back to normal op after accessing the menus  -  maybe a 
quick 
list of config items with a * indicating recent changes. Even if  it's a 
download to printer it would be good to get a list that shows recent or  last 
settings on one page - something that could be scanned when things don't  look 
right.  I know this may be a reach, but you gotta ask.
 
B) It'd be nice to have the speaker selects on the 'tap once'  menu list 
instead of buried down in the CONFIG list. Can a toggle between  headphone only 
and headphone +spkr be created? I haven't started into the macro  creation 
phase 
yet, and I have discovered some buttons which can do a hot change  without 
going into menu, so maybe it's just something I missed earlier. For that  I 
would apologize.
 
AQl WA6VNN #31



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Re: [Elecraft] Heil mic question

2007-11-26 Thread AJSOENKE
I have 2 Heil Prosets, the Elecraft version and the ICOM/Yaesu /5 version.  
Later today I'll check them side by side for comparison on the K3.  I can make 
both work equally well on the K-2 using the UN-PCB Universal Mic Interface to 
switch the bias in or out.
 
I use the Heil/Elecraft Proset mono(mic) and stereo(headphones) 3.5mm jacks 
on back and I can switch the speaker in or out at will with or without the 
headset turned on.
 
 
Al WA6VNN 



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Re: [Elecraft] CQ WW CW a K3

2007-11-26 Thread AJSOENKE
Item 3) - The VFO B Should have 2 felt washers to adjust drag. See Assembly 
Manual any REV. Even if the washers are in place the knob may need to be 
adjusted closer to faceplate to increase drag. 

Al WA6VNN



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[Elecraft] K3 SN31's first contest

2007-11-24 Thread AJSOENKE
Hi everyone -
 
One main reason I got a K3 was to be more active in DX and Contesting, now  
that I'm semi-retired. I used to be a very active contester in the late 70s  
early 80s and stayed in it mostly as a club activity since. I was introduced to 
 
logging software with CT in it's early days and still have a CT V10.x on the  
computer. I truly became tired of the amount of time I spent getting a rig 
ready  for interfacing to a contest software etc. lot of rigblaster and other 
stuff  laying around to help out, but never much satisfaction. With a working 
schedule  it was too much and mostly went by the wayside. My K2 was an 
improvement and  made the listening a lot easier. Interfacing was somewhat 
easier but 
still  required a lot of homework and interfacing. At least with the K2 it was 
worth  the effort.
 
Ok,  This weekend I had a choice of working in the orchard, with the  fall 
cleanup and yet another Santa Ana wind condition - or - taking a two week  old 
K3 and bridging the gap to get it set up for contesting in CQWW CWDX. I had  
become tired of  CTs endless menus and tricky help files, still stuck  learning 
 
CT. With CT if I don't use it 4 times a year it's a whole new  learning curve 
each time. I started in earnest Friday about 2pm and decided to  try one of 
the softwares in the Elecraft Web Page. I want to try all of them,  but had 
seen a lot of reference to N1MM and chose that to start with.  At  first glance 
I 
was overwhelmed with the amount of info, but followed the getting  started 
and Quick start guide to installing and upgrading the latest  version.  I was 
really nice to see that the K3 had already been   formatted in the boilerplate. 
It gives you a sense of 
confidence it might  work sometime this week.  So, given about an hour to get 
the software  installed and read the basics, I gave it a shot. 
 
The rig was already connected to the computer and had the latest upgrade  
installed. The RS232 cable I used is a standard 9 pin interface with all 9 
wires  
hooked up. I set the K3 CONFIG: PTT-KEY to rts-dtr, set up the software 
config  to match ( I changed data rate to 38400  and port to 8N1 for the K3 )
 
It took less than 20 minutes to get the rig on the air with a contest  
logger. What an improvement!
 
CU in the contest, break time is over.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - too many firmware updates?

2007-11-24 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/24/2007 5:12:21 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Brett announced: I have  decided to cancel my order
for the K3, I think I will wait snip 


 
OUCH!  I wonder if it's already shipped.  
 
I remember about 30 years ago when I was in the Analog tape recording  
business and swore that digital would never make it. I was in the HDD drive  
business a couple years later using experience I never dreamed would be as  
valuable 
as it was. Built and sold two businesses before getting back into the  
Aerospace business. 
 
I'm still learning the digital side of things after 30 years, and knowing  
analog has only made it work better - after all the digital aspect is only a  
tool to making analog better. That's the human side of the interface. The K3  
makes digital a snap compared to the IC-7000 and others. 
 
be lookin' for you next spring!
 
73 Al WA6VNN
 
PS I've got and old FT-901DM  I can't quite depart with it, yet!
 
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 findings

2007-11-24 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/24/2007 11:40:37 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The quiet receiver is *very*  pronounced when using data modes. I am so glad 
I sold my IC-7800 - this K3  is tons better.

Listening to the CW contest with 250Hz and 1kHz filters  is a pure pleasure, 
I would bet money that I am listening to an analogue  system.

Simon Brown, HB9DRV


 
Ditto that!
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] I didn't realize what you meant (was RE: WARNING! WARNING! WAR...

2007-11-23 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/23/2007 12:13:55 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
No problem Gary and I'm  glad we agree on that :-)

Sorry if I didn't make that clear. To try to  clarify this.. the basic
premise is that anything you attach to you or your  kit, while you are
building, is bonded to the same point (that's important)  and via a 1M ohm
resistor lead.

I also use dissipative tools, like  screwdrivers, cutters etc etc, but that
is not really necessary, as long as  your body is grounded via a strap.

I repeat, this ground MUST be via a 1M  ohm resistor (or higher, but better
to keep all resistances the  same).


+++
 
Sorry if I missed something here, and I'm not trying to confuse issues.  But, 
after 40 years in the industry working with the most sensitive of  
semiconductor devices, the only requirement for a series resistance that I've  
seen used 
is in the devices like a wrist strap that were attached to the  operators 
body. The purpose being to protect them from possible contact with  power 
systems 
that could place the operator in the HV ground path. The 500K or  larger 
resistor was usually adequate to provide a non-lethal warning of somethin  
amiss. 
I don't disagree that a big resistor to ground will dissipate a static  
charge, but most of us would prefer a total ground on the chassis. Otherwise, 
as  I 
understand it, you still run the risk of setting up a voltage differential  
that could damage parts. The reasoning is that a static charge will dissipate,  
being of limited source. But an AC voltage delta between the tip of an Iron 
and  an earth ground could be several volts, depending on the ground point and 
power  system setup. I've seen as much as 40 volts in normal household wiring. 
The  addition of a high value resistance in that circuit could raise the 
voltage  substatially, AND it is a non dissipative source that could fry more 
than 
a  small semi.  
 
The rule I have always applied at home and industrially is: 
1) use isolation transformer where possible,  
2) use a GFCI protected circuit, 
3) establish a common ground point that has the best possible path back to  
the house ground.( That is usually at the service entrance and should be tested 
 to make sure it works ) 
4) use a ground tester to make sure the ground is not open at the outlet.  
(Testers are cheap and available in most hardware stores) . 
5) Make sure the grounds from common point to work surface and chassis  are 
firmly connected - alligator clips always pop off. 
6) Wear your wrist strap and avoid synthetic or wool clothing.
7) last and very important - always use an ohmmeter to test the wrist strap  
and other ground jumpers to make sure they are working. 
 
A lot of good hardware can be damaged by an open ground wire. A good OP can  
be hurt by a bad wrist strap. With the constant flexing of the  wrist  
cables,etc, the wires will break internally and not be noticed, there's no  
antenna 
or speaker attached to it to tell you something's wrong.
 
I've done a lot of residential testing in the course of helping run an RFI  
committee for the local club. We have found many RFI cases caused by bad  
grounds
 
In home's I've visited over 30 years, I've found about 1 in 10 homes is  
poorly grounded at the service entrance, and about 1 in 10 has open grounds on  
outlets. Many result from electrical wiring done by the homeowner without the  
help of a licensed electrician or city inspector.
 
Judging from the Hams I have met over the years, the SKs I have known, and  a 
lot of the traffic I see on these lists, I have come to the opinion we have  
many in our midst to with disputable sense of values is some areas.   If you 
can't afford a little coin on Ohmmeters, new wrist straps, GFCIs and a  visit 
from the power company (usually free), you probably don't have adequate  
insurance to be messing with this stuff. n This isn't where you want to play on 
 the 
cheap.
 
nuff said'  Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: am I missing something re: DMM

2007-11-21 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/21/2007 11:05:45 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Hi all, especially those who  have assembled a K3 already (Eric, Wayne,
and the Elecraft FTers invited to  answer as well):

Okay...so here I am in the K3 queue, getting  ready.  I have picked up
an ESD mat and wrist strap, some new Phillips  (those I have were
pretty beat up), and now I'm bothering several of the  usuals on the
reflector for advice (again) about a DMM.

+++
 
Well Doug, if everything goes well, you won't really need a DMM. You can  use 
the VOM to confirm that your wriststrap is working OK (500K Ohm min) and you  
shouldn't need a meter unless you run into a problem. I can't recall if you 
have  built a K2 previously, but they use a RF probe in some of the alignment 
on a K2.  The RF probe will convert RF to a DC voltage so you can trace RF to 
some degree.  The VOM may not be the best choice for the RF Probe, because a 
lot of  measurements of that type are in the mV range. 
 
FWIW - I was just reading the ads in the morning news and it looks like  
Sears, among many other stores, are having the usual after Thanksgiving Sales. 
A  
couple items caught my attention. Sears says that on Friday between 5am and 
noon  they are selling a variety of things at half regular price. After noon 
they'll  go up about 20% or so. One that looked good to me was a DMM that will 
be 
on sale  at $9.99. Even at $20 it's a bargain. Also saw a shop vac portable 2 
gal  unit like I use in my classroom, that'll be $14.99, also a great deal. I 
use it  in class to vacuum the dust out of donated computers - good and 
strong!  Also, they are selling Roomba vacs, the kind that run the floor 
without 
help.  They're Reg price $149 and going for $99. 
 
Sorry I went a little off topic, but I would sure like to get inside one of  
those vacs and see what makes them tick. Great classroom project.
 
Maybe if you want to build the K3 and hold off on the DMM unless you need  
one. RS has them in the low$$ range as well.
 
73 Al WA6VNN



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[Elecraft] Happy Thanksgiving to All

2007-11-21 Thread AJSOENKE
Happy Thanksgiving to All  
And especially to the entire Crew at Elecraft,  you deserve a  rest!
 
 
73,  AL WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] soldering suggestions?

2007-11-20 Thread AJSOENKE
Robert,  From the description of the tools you have been using I wouldn't 
even guess you are a beginner at soldering. You've made all the right choices 
and have spent some time learning the vast range of devices that will confront 
you. The .05 chisel tip is a good choice, especially for the Elecraft devices. 
It is helpful to make sure the tip has been been wiped clean on the sponge to 
get good contact with the surface. But, it is also important that tip have a 
small amount of solder freshly applied to the tip to enhance wetting contact 
and to improve the thermal transfer to the pad/wire. Not too much, not too 
little solder to wet the tip.  A common error is to use a sponge that is too 
wet 
and to bury the tip in it. This chills the tip and may delay the readiness to 
solder. The three seconds is a pretty vague figure - I rather rely on the time 
it takes to cause the solder 'break and flow' causing the solder to wet the 
metal surfaces.  Since the tip may not cause the solder to flow immediately, it 
is also likely there is not a lot of heat going into the component that would 
cause damage. If you can't get the solder to flow in a reasonable time 4 - 6 
seconds or so, you may not have ggod contact and might need to apply a little 
more pressure while gently moving the tip around in a scrubbing motion. That 
has always worked for me. It helps to have a flat side of the chisel tip 
against 
the pad to increase the contact area with the surface. Working off the end of 
a fine tip, like you are writing with a pencil, may not provide for good heat 
transfer.  One last thing - to get solder to flow to a surface and alloy, it 
must be hot, so make sure you have contact with the pad and the wire to get 
things moving right. Avoid movement that will fracture the semi-solid solder 
yielding what is sometimes called a cold solder joint. The have a dull 
granular 
appearance. A well done solder joint will reveal the features of the wire and 
the pad (not excess solder) and will have a bright shiny appearance. Commmon 
rubbing alcohol can be used to clean the solder of flux residue if you need to 
do a close inspection, otherwise I wouldn't do it. It's often needed after 
doing a remove and replace repair, becaus eof the buildup of flux. A cotton 
q-tip can be used for a small job, but you'll get cotton fibres that need to be 
picked off. A better choice is a small swatch of cotton fabric, like a piece of 
old t-shirt. You can also use that to dry off excess. Avoid synthetic 
materials, they are good static generators and can cause ESD damage. My choice 
is a 
natural bristle brush. You can use an acid-brush with pure bristle or boar 
bristle, but not plastic. They are usually about a 1/2 inch of bristle, but I 
trim mine to less than 1/4 inch to give it a little scrubbing strength. These 
can 
usually be found in auto parts and tool stores. Also, you can sometimes find 
detail brushes or artists brushes that have stiff bristles - they just cost a 
little more.

Remeber this is mainly for the fine work. If you get into 12 gauge wire and 
1/4 inch terminals you'll need the 40 watt or larger iron with a 3/16 - 1/4 tip 
or the old trusty gun.

Hope that helps.

73 de WA6VNN  Al



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in SS Phone

2007-11-19 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/19/2007 11:20:14 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Ed, I'm waiting for my  K3 and I'm a phone man at present (working on my
Morse).
I have a 2.8kHz  and 400Hz on order. Reading your post, maybe I should
consider either a 1.8  or a 2.1 kHz filter too.
Given the option, which would choose?

Anyone  else want to chip in too please.

Kind of decision I couldn't make back in  May.

I opted for the std 2.7K to get the feel of the rig first. I found the dsp  
filter to be so effective that I'd be hard pressed to go to a narrower filter.  
But, I'm primarily a cw op with a lot of ssb time. I did find times when I 
was  working between a couple strong stations where the 1.8k would have helped. 
I am  presently ready to order a 250 hz for the cw ops, but again, the dsp 
works  amazingly good at 50 hz. I haven't gotten into a deep CW brawl yet so 
I'm 
not  sure how much I need the narrow roofing, but my experience in ss phone 
tells me  I need it.  I've placed high score in ss phone years ago an I have a  
feeling that the K3 is going to make that a reasonable expectation in the  
future.  
 
Good luck es CU in the test  WA6VNN, Al



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Re: [Elecraft] Who will be running a K3 in SS today/tomorrow?

2007-11-17 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/17/2007 7:29:19 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Wonder which call  letters I should be keeping an ear out for in 
Sweepstakes...

If your K3  will be active, please let us know...

Thanks!

John  K7FD
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K3 sn0031 will be running off on  as call sign K6DDO (alternate call  sign of 
Channel Islands ARC), WA6VNN (my Call), and KF6DZP ( YL's Call  )

73 Al




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: doing the math

2007-11-17 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/16/2007 2:24:00 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
On Nov 16, 2007 9:38  PM,  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 As long as I get my K3  sometime before the sunspots get back, I'll be 
happy...

I sincerely hope  I don't have to wait *that* long! :)
-- 
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392   K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums:  www.zerobeat.net/smf
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For the K3 or the sunspots to return ;  )

Al WA6VNN

PS SN 31 made a debut at the Santa Barbara ARC meeting  last night (SIG nite) 
 and captured the audience with her little brother by  her side (K2 SN4887). 
Interesting that W1AW on other side of continent was 599  at 0400Z on 7049 
using a 20 ft piece of hookup wire as an ant, inside a  building!  100% copy 
using txt decode. Hint: on txt decode, use narrowest  possible dsp passband, I 
was 
using 50 Hz under a std 2.7Khz xtal filter.   So, Why wasn't there any other 
activity on 40???   Come on folks, get  on the air!  73 Al  




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 options

2007-11-17 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/16/2007 2:46:00 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
As others noted you can have up  to 5 roofing (crystal) filters in the main
receiver. I don't recall seeing a  number for the Aux receiver. 

I don't know of any conflicting  configuration options like you mention for
the K2 either, but there are A/B  choices to make. For example, you can
choose between 8-pole or 5-pole crystal  filters. You can have up to 5 of
them in any mix. You can choose between a 5  ppm and a 1 ppm reference
oscillator (defines the frequency stability of the  K3 as the temperature
varies). You only have one of those. 

Ron  AC7AC



-Original Message-


Can anyone tell me  which options for the K3 preclude
other options? For example, on the K2 you  cannot have
the KPA100 option unless you do not have the internal
battery  installed.

Also, how many filters can the K3 take?

73's de Ken  KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper  #11808,
Flying Pigs #-1055,  Grid  EM17ip



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Aux rcvr is same as primary rcvr, 5, assuming you are referring to the KRX3  
Subreceiver.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Band limits

2007-11-16 Thread AJSOENKE
The first thing I'd do is send an e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
(mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])  . My unqualiifed guess is a firmware version change 
or patch for that country. Which leads to the possibility that is already 
installed. TECH MD in the CONFIG mode allopws setting of country. I have not 
experimented with changing that to see what will happen. The rig SN is also 
stored 
there.  There may be some things that are locked out from change at the mfg. 
I'm also curious myself if there are nay hidden programming functions, 
otherwise known as unpublished.  Yaesu and other rigs usually have a lot that 
are 
reserved for the shop techs. Most software manufacturers love to put these in 
their products.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 wish list

2007-11-14 Thread AJSOENKE
And then there's the frogs! The ant tuner will shut them all up for a few 
minutes!  
 
Of course, there is always the possibility of using a feedline that is 
matched to the antenna and good grounds etc. I've been runnning a vertical made 
by 
Mosely back in the late 1950's, with 80 feet of RG-8. Unfortunately it is only 
a 4 band 40 - 10 no WARC, BUT it'll tune all 4 bands to under 1.5:1 and no 
need for tuners. The dipole is another story.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 selectivity display?

2007-11-14 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/14/2007 3:25:19 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Craig D. Smith  wrote:

  When you tap XFIL to rotate through the filters the  discrete FLn
 indicator lights up for that filter and also the VFO B  display says 
 FL3 0.40,
 FL4 0.25, etc. So you don't really  have to remember.

 Thanks, all, for the quick and meaningful  response.  The above 
 behavior will
 help a lot.  Guess  I won't need that Sticky note pasted to the front 
 of my
 K3  afterall  ;)


Craig,

I really liked your idea of being  able to quickly see the actual XFIL 
bandwidth in some convenient way. So I  just changed the way the menu's 
crystal filter configuration entries work:  now, they always pertain to 
the actual filter in use by the receiver.  Before, the menu kept track 
of the filter number independently as you  manipulated the parameters.

This change allows the operator to  immediately hear the effect of any 
filter changes, without having to make  sure that the receiver and menu 
are set up for the same filter.

If  you assign a programmable switch function to the filter bandwidth 
menu  entry, it'll show you the bandwidth for the present filter -- not 
the filter  the menu was working with, which could have been different. 
I should have  done it this way in the first place!

Thanks for the implied  suggestion  :)  I'll have another firmware 
release in a couple of  days that includes a number of other updates as  
well.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

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FB Wayne! BTW is AM support up yet?
 
Al WA6VNN
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 selectivity display?

2007-11-14 Thread AJSOENKE
In a message dated 11/14/2007 3:25:19 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Craig D. Smith  wrote:

  When you tap XFIL to rotate through the filters the  discrete FLn
 indicator lights up for that filter and also the VFO B  display says 
 FL3 0.40,
 FL4 0.25, etc. So you don't really  have to remember.

 Thanks, all, for the quick and meaningful  response.  The above 
 behavior will
 help a lot.  Guess  I won't need that Sticky note pasted to the front 
 of my
 K3  afterall  ;)


Craig,

I really liked your idea of being  able to quickly see the actual XFIL 
bandwidth in some convenient way. So I  just changed the way the menu's 
crystal filter configuration entries work:  now, they always pertain to 
the actual filter in use by the receiver.  Before, the menu kept track 
of the filter number independently as you  manipulated the parameters.

This change allows the operator to  immediately hear the effect of any 
filter changes, without having to make  sure that the receiver and menu 
are set up for the same filter.

If  you assign a programmable switch function to the filter bandwidth 
menu  entry, it'll show you the bandwidth for the present filter -- not 
the filter  the menu was working with, which could have been different. 
I should have  done it this way in the first place!

Thanks for the implied  suggestion  :)  I'll have another firmware 
release in a couple of  days that includes a number of other updates as  
well.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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FB Wayne. BTW is the AM support scheduled soon? Just curious.
 
Al WA6VNN



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Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2

2007-11-13 Thread AJSOENKE
If you haveever tried to remove housepaint from a coax, black or whatever, 
you'll know that best way to match the coax to the house is to paint it with 
your color of choice.  I have a 45 year old Moseley vertical ant that I paint 
with latex exterior paint and it lasts until you take it off. Pleases the 
neighbors too!
 
Al WA6VNN



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[Elecraft] SN0031 OTA

2007-11-12 Thread AJSOENKE

SN31 was placed in full operation at  0900Z 12 Nov 2007.

Primary mode of operation CW on 40 a little 20 as  bands improve and some 80M 
SSB for net time.

73 Al WA6VNN  




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 KBPF3 Question

2007-11-10 Thread AJSOENKE
I'm confused, the KBPF3 is a fairly large board that mounts on the RF board  
and operates in bypass to the ham band only BPF. Has anyone seen the KRX3  
schematic or an image that tells the full story?
 
Al WA6VNN
 
In a message dated 11/10/2007 3:23:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
If you have two KBPF3s.   ;)

Ed

Wayne Burdick wrote:
 
 Or both, if you  want general-coverage receive on both.
 
 Ed Muns wrote:
  
  In the long run I plan on using the KFL3B-FM in the primary RX  and 
  the KFL3A-6K in the secondary RX for listening to 
  broadcast stations. 
  Afaik this would require the KBPF3 to be  installed on the 
 KRX3 board 
  and not on the main RF  board. As a clone of the main receiver this 
  should be  possible, shouldn't it? Did I overlook something?
 
  That  is correct.  The KBPF3 can be installed on either receiver.
  
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #36 Up and Running

2007-11-08 Thread AJSOENKE

I was a little concerned after installation of the Noise blanker board  
as it did not sit level to the RF board.
I thought that the standoff I  had installed was a little short. 
Measuring it, it was correct as per the  manual. . .
 
I added a third split ring washer to the assembly sotherre are now two on  
top side of the board, raising the spacer just enough to level it out.
 
Al WA6VNN   sn31
 



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Re: [Elecraft_K3] K3 Product Launch

2007-11-06 Thread ajsoenke
I agree what you said for a $300 million? business. I have been in management 
of projects that have a 5 year budget in that area. But Elecraft is far from 
that. I see many plusses from announcing the product when they did. Add in a 
little enthusiatic optimism coupled with the knowledge they have a faithful 
following, they have been able to divert potential business from straying - 
which helped me make my decision to buy since I was in the market. The down 
payment was no issue with me, either, you either pay now or pay later, with 
interest to their financier.? So, rather than place them in a takeover 
position, I was happy to do the $ down. A lot can be said about a bigger 
company having in-situ production capability, but that wasn't always the case, 
i.e. it is Elecraft's time to move on. They should be thankful that they didn't 
eat the investment over in-house capability with out-sourced PCBs coming to 
maturity. The painful result of having a full vertically integrated facility at 
this?date is the?process of dismantling it and transitioning to outsourcing is 
rife with conflict. What do we do if outsource causes problems we can't fix and 
decide to go back?? Who pays for it (duh, the customer) and so on. Anyway. . . 
it's done and it will be great. By taking the 'risk'
I'll have my K3 on the air this evening.

73,? Al WA6VNN


-Original Message-
From: Phil Westover [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 8:01 am
Subject: [Elecraft_K3] K3 Product Launch






My profession is RD, product development and product launch with a 
$300 million/year company. One alternative to this entire situation 
would have been for Elecraft to do what we do: Not divulge anything 
about the product or its launch schedule until all development is 
finished and all production systems are ready.
I've enjoyed watching Elecraft's development with the K3. It's an 
insight that I normally don't get (because all of our competition keeps 
everything very quiet and secret as well).
Whenever the customer gets any wind of a new product, especially one as 
exciting as the K3, the risk is very high to keep everyone happy. I 
don't criticize Wayne and Eric (and the gang) for letting us all know 
what's happening. After all, they did keep things secret for 3+ 
years! But as I said, with the first production runs not completed at 
the time of the announcements, they are taking the risk. I think they 
knew that, and I think they are so dedicated to getting the job done 
right that they were willing to take that chance.
I haven't ordered a K3 yet, but I will. By not being one of the early 
adaptors, I reduce the risk for myself as well.
- Phil WA7URV



 


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Re: [Elecraft_K3] K3 Product Launch

2007-11-06 Thread ajsoenke

That's been my rant for at least 5 months now.



73 de WA6VNN sn31 and ready for your next prod.


-Original Message-
From: Simon Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 9:31 am
Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] K3 Product Launch







I'm taking a lot out of context here, but pity those who purchased a very 
expensive high-end radio a few years ago based on marketing hype. The 
manufacturer still has not addressed outstanding probelms, those who bought 
got bitten, so even buying 'off the shelf' can be a risk.

Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

By taking the 'risk' 



 


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Re: [Elecraft_K3] Re: Re K3 delays...minor correction

2007-11-05 Thread ajsoenke
In a message dated 11/5/2007 12:29:53 P.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
A minor correction to your  minor correction.

My statement was that Elecraft AS A COMPANY is  inexperienced dealing 
with contractors. 

It's clear from what's  happened with the K3 that even if an 
individual at Elecraft had SOME  experience in another life with 
outside contractors, it wasn't enough  experience to correctly handle 
this situation.

There are thousands of  ways contractors outside can mess up, cause 
damage and then hide the damage  until it's too late. It takes lots 
of accumulated experience to sidestep the  landmines – large companies 
have entire departments that do nothing but  monitor suppliers' 
status – obviously Elecraft couldn't or didn't do this.  As a 
company, Elecraft stepped in the landmines.

Les WB6MND

I know I'm just a little biased toward Elecraft, but they have done quite  
well for what they started with the K3.
I have managed programs in what we call rocket science and high tech of the  
nth degree for 40 years and had just as much trouble with first run PCBs - 
even  when there were only 2 or 3 to be made.  It's a tough game and outsource 
is 
 still in it's infancy. Have you ever noticed how many versions of highly  
popular Computer motherboards turn out to be lemons and the rate at which  they 
are rolled up in revision? These are devices that are sold by hundreds of  
thousands and using standardized buses and common components. Main reason is 
the  
pressure to get them to market and the belief that firmware will fix any 
minor  problems. I praise Elecraft for having the strength to see this through 
the 
 toughest part of a new product rollout.
 
Al WA6VNN
Al WA6VNN



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