RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Robin Netherton

Fran quoted me thus:

 Copyright law focuses on publishing

... cutting off my sentence midstream. Then she added:

 Actually, copyright literally covers making copies, and does
 not only apply to distribution or sale of them.

However, if Fran had included the rest of my sentence, it would have been clear 
that I was saying the same thing, as my full sentence went on to define 
publishing (for purposes of describing copyright) -- as the making of copies. 
My full sentence was this:

Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and distribution of 
copies of creative work that someone owns.

Fran equated the terms herself later in her paragraph:

 This is why it's illegal to copy a copyrighted book to save
 yourself the price of buying it; you're publishing a one-off
 for yourself.

Yes: copying as publishing.

The rest of my post should also have made it abundantly obvious I was not 
defining publishing here as requiring sale. Distribution is fuzzier, and I 
included it in that sentence in part because I didn't want to get sidetracked 
onto the issue of copying things for personal use. Note that I said focuses 
on, not covers. Truth is, although the exact definition of copyright is 
broader, copyright *cases* generally arise only when a copy goes beyond the 
knowledge and use of a single person. Technically it is often a violation to 
make a copy of something for personal use, but from a practical standpoint, if 
no one hears the tree fall, it makes no sound. As far as I know, personal use 
wasn't the concern in the thread, so I concentrated on the practical issue that 
was under discussion.

Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally resorted 
to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when they're out of print 
or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to them longer than ILL will let 
me. In the one chance in a million that the copyright owners in these cases 
wander into my private office and find the copies in my files, I'll take my 
lumps. (Given the books in question, though, I suspect the authors would more 
likely be amazed that would go to such lengths to get them.)

Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens every day in 
every university library and Kinko's. When, in writing a paper, I quote from or 
cite a book that I don't own, I routinely copy the relevant pages, so I can go 
back to the reference for context or fact-checking as needed. I also copy the 
title page and copyright page of the book and staple them to the copies of the 
individual pages. I consider that good scholarly practice, and I can't imagine 
anyone hauling me in for copyright violation for that.

 Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes place
 within educational institutions, and not to an individual reading any
 book he or she may find informative (which after all applies to every
 nonfiction work).

Which is why I was careful to refer specifically to educational 
presentations, not just educational use, in my example. Which, again, I 
think was relevant to the thread at hand.

I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are 
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution. The SCA 
has events that are full of classes, and it has legal status as a 501(c)3 
nonprofit educational organization. A lawyer could make a good case that a 
class at an SCA university event is an educational presentation, but just 
Xeroxing stuff for reference in making SCA costumes probably wouldn't fly.

Many of my own slides are from books I don't own. I made the copies from 
library copies, or in the rare book rooms of libraries, often using the 
library's own photo setup, with permission from the rare book librarian. (And 
yes, some rare books are still young enough to be under copyright.) They knew 
I'd be using the slides for research and lectures. I've never run into anyone 
who questions whether this is appropriate educational use ... even though I am 
not affiliated with and do not teach at an educational institution.

Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting 
precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of copyright, and 
I would encourage her to read my posts with a consideration of the context of 
the conversation. I have no desire or time to engage in an argument over 
semantics, particularly as we are on the same side of the issue. I should also 
note that my goal in entering into this discussion is to provide helpful 
guidance to list members who want to do the right thing, and I do not intend to 
get into a protracted discussion about fine points of the law that do not apply 
to the situation at hand.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press


Robin Netherton wrote:

 Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally 
resorted to  Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when 
they're out of print or otherwise  unavailable and I need to refer to 
them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a  million that 
the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and 
find  the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in 
question, though, I  suspect the authors would more likely be amazed 
that would go to such lengths to get them.)


Ah:  So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is 
ethical as long as you don’t get caught?


I don’t leave my purse, or any other property, unattended around people 
with attitudes like that.


 Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
every day in every university library and Kinko's.


Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
somewhere, it’s OK for you to commit any of them?


I don’t even want to be in the room with people who have ethics like 
that.  Who knows what they’d feel OK about doing.


Somehow, I manage to do research—-although there’s so much 
grandstanding, exaggeration, and sheer bullshit about “research” and 
“scholarship” in reenactment communities I try not to mention it 
much—-without violating copyrights.  This is greatly facilitated by 
actually buying the books, and yes I also buy “rare” books.


 I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are 
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution.


Then since you’re giving such lectures, don’t you think you should find 
out for sure?


There are also a number of other legal guidelines, including using only 
small portions of a work and a small number of works, having the need 
arise when there is not enough time to purchase the publications, and 
others.


 Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting 
precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.


Not fully understanding it does not give you license to do whatever 
you’d like.


 I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of 
copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a 
consideration of the context of the conversation.


OK, so we’re using the third person now, not addressing each other.  So: 
I don’t think from the above comments that Robin and I are in agreement 
about copyright law. I’d encourage Robin to read some books on it. Nolo 
Press has a good selection.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Robin Netherton

Fran quoted me:

 Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally
 resorted to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when
 they're out of print or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to
 them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a million that
 the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and
 find the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in
 question, though, I suspect the authors would more likely be amazed
 that would go to such lengths to get them.)

And responded:

 Ah: So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
 ethical as long as you don’t get caught?

Anyone who could take my extremely specific statement above and make the 
subsequent sweeping (and very much incorrect) inference is not worth engaging 
in conversation. 

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Wendi Dunlap

Robin Netherton wrote:


Closer to the point here: I use slides of artwork in my lectures, as
many as 100 in a single lecture. Some come from books. Some come from
the artwork itself; of the latter, some of the photos were taken
under explicit agreements with the owning libraries/museums regarding
how I would use the images (e.g. research and teaching, but not
publication or distribution). My use is legal; if I disseminated the
images, it would not be. When I have used images in my published
papers, I have paid for reproduction permission.


On the other hand, see 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeman_Art_Library_v._Corel_Corp. -- 
it's not so clear that museums can always restrict your use of the 
artwork they own.


Of course, if you have made an agreement with them, it's ethical to 
honor it. But Bridgeman v. Corel indicates that such agreements aren't 
always necessary. Then again, if you want to maintain a good working 
relationship with the museums... *sigh*


W

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, 
huh?


Sylrog
On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
applies to every nonfiction work).






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re [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Land of Oz




Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? 
If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.





sorry, I just re-read the original question -- I skipped over the period 
quilt part and was thinking you wanted raw cotton to stuff part of a 
costume.


Plain, all-cotton quilt batts are available all over the internet. The first 
response to your question was more appropriate than mine.  :)


Denise 


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RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
Thank you all in bringing some clarification to this murky issue.

Patty

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos


Fran quoted me thus:

 Copyright law focuses on publishing

... cutting off my sentence midstream. Then she added:

 Actually, copyright literally covers making copies, and does
 not only apply to distribution or sale of them.

However, if Fran had included the rest of my sentence, it would have been clear 
that I was saying the same thing, as my full sentence went on to define 
publishing (for purposes of describing copyright) -- as the making of copies. 
My full sentence was this:

Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and distribution of 
copies of creative work that someone owns.

Fran equated the terms herself later in her paragraph:

 This is why it's illegal to copy a copyrighted book to save
 yourself the price of buying it; you're publishing a one-off
 for yourself.

Yes: copying as publishing.

The rest of my post should also have made it abundantly obvious I was not 
defining publishing here as requiring sale. Distribution is fuzzier, and I 
included it in that sentence in part because I didn't want to get sidetracked 
onto the issue of copying things for personal use. Note that I said focuses 
on, not covers. Truth is, although the exact definition of copyright is 
broader, copyright *cases* generally arise only when a copy goes beyond the 
knowledge and use of a single person. Technically it is often a violation to 
make a copy of something for personal use, but from a practical standpoint, if 
no one hears the tree fall, it makes no sound. As far as I know, personal use 
wasn't the concern in the thread, so I concentrated on the practical issue that 
was under discussion.

Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally resorted 
to Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when they're out of print 
or otherwise unavailable and I need to refer to them longer than ILL will let 
me. In the one chance in a million that the copyright owners in these cases 
wander into my private office and find the copies in my files, I'll take my 
lumps. (Given the books in question, though, I suspect the authors would more 
likely be amazed that would go to such lengths to get them.)

Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens every day in 
every university library and Kinko's. When, in writing a paper, I quote from or 
cite a book that I don't own, I routinely copy the relevant pages, so I can go 
back to the reference for context or fact-checking as needed. I also copy the 
title page and copyright page of the book and staple them to the copies of the 
individual pages. I consider that good scholarly practice, and I can't imagine 
anyone hauling me in for copyright violation for that.

 Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes place
 within educational institutions, and not to an individual reading any
 book he or she may find informative (which after all applies to every
 nonfiction work).

Which is why I was careful to refer specifically to educational 
presentations, not just educational use, in my example. Which, again, I 
think was relevant to the thread at hand.

I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are 
characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution. The SCA 
has events that are full of classes, and it has legal status as a 501(c)3 
nonprofit educational organization. A lawyer could make a good case that a 
class at an SCA university event is an educational presentation, but just 
Xeroxing stuff for reference in making SCA costumes probably wouldn't fly.

Many of my own slides are from books I don't own. I made the copies from 
library copies, or in the rare book rooms of libraries, often using the 
library's own photo setup, with permission from the rare book librarian. (And 
yes, some rare books are still young enough to be under copyright.) They knew 
I'd be using the slides for research and lectures. I've never run into anyone 
who questions whether this is appropriate educational use ... even though I am 
not affiliated with and do not teach at an educational institution.

Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting 
precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of copyright, and 
I would encourage her to read my posts with a consideration of the context of 
the conversation. I have no desire or time to engage in an argument over 
semantics, particularly as we are on the same side of the issue. I should also 
note that my goal in entering into this discussion is to provide helpful 
guidance to list members who want to do the right thing, and I do not intend to 
get 

Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Sylvia Rognstad

I agree.  Can we not try to insult one another and start flame wars?

Sylrob

On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:36 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:


Wow - that was harsh!

Patty

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos


Robin Netherton wrote:


Certainly, copying a whole book is a violation. But I've occasionally


resorted to  Xeroxing books that are technically in copyright, when
they're out of print or otherwise  unavailable and I need to refer to
them longer than ILL will let me. In the one chance in a  million that
the copyright owners in these cases wander into my private office and
find  the copies in my files, I'll take my lumps. (Given the books in
question, though, I  suspect the authors would more likely be amazed
that would go to such lengths to get them.)

Ah:  So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
ethical as long as you don't get caught?

I don't leave my purse, or any other property, unattended around people
with attitudes like that.


Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens

every day in every university library and Kinko's.

Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day,
somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

I don't even want to be in the room with people who have ethics like
that.  Who knows what they'd feel OK about doing.

Somehow, I manage to do research--although there's so much
grandstanding, exaggeration, and sheer bullshit about research and
scholarship in reenactment communities I try not to mention it
much--without violating copyrights.  This is greatly facilitated by
actually buying the books, and yes I also buy rare books.


I'm not sure how the law would cover independent lectures that are

characterized as classes but not within the walls of an institution.

Then since you're giving such lectures, don't you think you should find
out for sure?

There are also a number of other legal guidelines, including using only
small portions of a work and a small number of works, having the need
arise when there is not enough time to purchase the publications, and
others.


Copyright law, overall, is full of exceptions, loopholes, conflicting


precedents, and argument. Some lines are clearer than others, though.

Not fully understanding it does not give you license to do whatever
you'd like.


I should also note that I generally agree with Fran on issues of

copyright, and I would encourage her to read my posts with a
consideration of the context of the conversation.

OK, so we're using the third person now, not addressing each other.  
So:


I don't think from the above comments that Robin and I are in agreement
about copyright law. I'd encourage Robin to read some books on it. Nolo
Press has a good selection.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Edith Reardon
I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something that is 
loose fibres.
   
  Thanks for trying
   
  Brin Kendall

Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Edith Reardon wrote:
 Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? If 
 there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
 

Warm  Natural is a very good quality cotton quilt batting, which you 
might be able to order off the internet. Their website lists some online 
sources: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html

It's not quite the same as raw cotton which was used in the 1800's, but 
it is a very good quality modern product.


Dawn

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RE: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Linda Rice
I got an enormous roll of rough cotton batting from an upholstery
supplier. It wasn't cheap and the shipping was rather much too, IIRC.
But, I have enough of this stuff to make many, many quilts or quilted
garments. It's really thick, and can be peeled apart at the thickness
desired. It's messier to use than the pre-made stuff, but once I got the
hang of it I found it no worse than anything else. When it's made up and
washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just
can't imitate. 

I got mine here:
http://vandykes.resultspage.com/search?w=cotton+batting

Homepage= www.vandykes.com 

If shipping to where you are is too much, I'd suggest contacting a local
upholsterer to see if they can get it for you.

HTH-

::Linda::


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Edith Reardon
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 12:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something
that is loose fibres.
   
  Thanks for trying
   
  Brin Kendall

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[h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Kate M Bunting
Robin wrote:
  Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
every day in every university library and Kinko's.

and Fran replied

 Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
 somewhere, itÆs OK for you to commit any of them?

I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section
of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew Trembley

Lavolta Press wrote:

Robin Netherton wrote:
 Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that happens 
every day in every university library and Kinko's.


Ah:  So since every crime and violation of law happens every day, 
somewhere, it’s OK for you to commit any of them?


And we're back to the assumption of criminal intent and sniping.

Fair use, people. Fair use.
http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test

The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain 
English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in 
his system.


Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, 
you can check out the Stanford Copyright  Fair Use Center 
http://fairuse.stanford.edu/. They've got their own explanation of the 
Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:

http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/9-b.html

andy

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Re: re [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Bambi TBNL
There is a product for just such ocassions sold by Joann Fabrics called Warm 
and Natural or Warm 'n Natural..it is unbleached cotton batting expressly for 
100%natural quilting .
  Iyou might try to see if they also sell it on line at joanns.com
  hope this helps...
  Bambi

Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  


 Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? 
 If there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.



sorry, I just re-read the original question -- I skipped over the period 
quilt part and was thinking you wanted raw cotton to stuff part of a 
costume.

Plain, all-cotton quilt batts are available all over the internet. The first 
response to your question was more appropriate than mine. :)

Denise 

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RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Sharon Collier
What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a new
publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just part of
the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for them to use on
their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one individually. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] costume photos


 But I'm not publishing the photos I copy. You keep using the word 
 publish.

I was speaking about copyright law, not about you specifically; I didn't
want the previous comment (you only need permission if you're making money
off it) to stand without discussion, because the issue of money is so often
misunderstood. Whether you need permission does not depend on whether money
changes hands. In your case, you may well not need permission anyway, but
whether you're making money doesn't have anything to do with that.

Copyright law focuses on publishing -- that is, creation and distribution of
copies of creative work that someone owns. I didn't follow the beginning of
this thread closely, so I don't know what you're doing or whether the law
applies to you.

I am not a lawyer, but here's my understanding of some practical situations
I often see in my own work:

If you take photos from the book, make slides, and show them to a class,
you're fine. Making slides to display for an educational presentation is
well within every interpretation of copyright law I've ever read. Note that
I refer specifically to educational presentation. If you are putting on a
show for entertainment (even for free), you are no longer on firm ground.

If you make handouts with copies of the images, you are on muddier ground,
because people can take the images home with them. If you make a CD and
distribute it to the students, even as a textbook of sorts, you're over
the line (regardless of whether they pay any money). These count as
publishing.

If you put one of the pictures on a poster for a school event, you are over
the line, but probably no one will bother you about it. If you put a picture
into a newsletter or magazine, or onto a web page, you are over the line and
may very well be pursued over it. This is something I have experienced from
both sides!

And when was I pursued? Not me, but the magazine I worked for. Our designer
created a cover design that used a Superman type treatment about super
fund raisers and a visual image of an office worker opening his shirt to
reveal a dollar sign treated like Superman's S. DC Comics saw one and made
us destroy every remaining copy. I don't remember if we had to pay money
too.

Another, less disastrous example. In leafing through a trade magazine, I
noticed an article on a magazine designer that included a photo of him in
his studio. Clearly visible on the wall of the studio was a piece of art
showing an illuminated alphabet -- a signed and numbered art print I
recognized because I own the same print myself. Amused, I sent a copy of the
magazine to the artist, who was a personal friend. He saw something I hadn't
noticed: The article itself used, as a decorative element, one of the
illuminated letters taken from the poster. The photo of the framed poster on
the wall was fine. The lifting of the letter from the poster and its
placement as an art element in a published article was theft. My friend sent
a thank-you note to me, and sent a modest bill for his graphic artwork to
the magazine editor. The bill was paid.

I myself have had a copyright case in court, part of a group of a dozen
writers who did work for a company that declared bankruptcy before paying
us. As part of its bankruptcy proceedings, it sold its intellectual assets,
including the work that we had written. We sued on grounds that they didn't
yet own copyright to the work and thus couldn't legally sell it. We won.
Having established our claim to the property (which we didn't really care
about, as the articles were made to suit a particular publication and
weren't useful to us), our lawyer then negotiated a small settlement with
the purchasing company to give up our claim. Pennies on the dollar compared
to what we would have gotten in pay for our work, but at least it was
something.

Closer to the point here: I use slides of artwork in my lectures, as many as
100 in a single lecture. Some come from books. Some come from the artwork
itself; of the latter, some of the photos were taken under explicit
agreements with the owning libraries/museums regarding how I would use the
images (e.g. research and teaching, but not publication or distribution). My
use is legal; if I disseminated the images, it would not be. When I have
used images in my published papers, I have paid for reproduction permission.

Last time I did a lecture, I was almost at the end before I learned that
someone in the audience had been using her cellphone to take a 

Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Land of Oz
Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt??  If 
there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.





Look for local suppliers to people who do hand-spinning. If you have no 
local handspinners and handweavers supply, look on line. There are 
thousands. You can buy raw cotton, carded cotton, cotton roving, cotton puni 
(tiny carded and rolled pieces for spinning into fine thread) and cotton 
quilt batts.


If you want to remove the seeds yourself, raw uncarded cotton would probably 
be the cheapest. You may have to check the import laws governing seeds. (?) 
You can usually find the same product w/o seeds.


Denise
Iowa 


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Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Shirley Hobbs
Not sure what you mean by loose fibers.  100% cotton or wool batting will 
have a much different appearance in a quilt than will the poly stuff.  Cotton 
and wool batting should be available at your local quilt store.  If you want 
raw cotton, see if there is a yarn shop in your area that sells unwashed 
cotton - I have one near me.
   
  Cactus

Edith Reardon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I actually was looking for more of a Cotton fibrefill type something that is 
loose fibres.

Thanks for trying

Brin Kendall

Dawn wrote:
Edith Reardon wrote:
 Does anyone know where I can get Cotton Wool to stuff a period quilt?? If 
 there is somewhere close to Norway that would even be better.
 

Warm  Natural is a very good quality cotton quilt batting, which you 
might be able to order off the internet. Their website lists some online 
sources: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html

It's not quite the same as raw cotton which was used in the 1800's, but 
it is a very good quality modern product.


Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Dawn

Linda Rice wrote:

I got an enormous roll of rough cotton batting from an upholstery
supplier.


 When it's made up and

washed it definitely has that lumpy bumpy look and feel that poly just
can't imitate. 



Lumpy bumpy is a 20th century phenomena that only happens when quilts 
get put into a washing machine. In the 1800's a quilt would have been 
hung and beaten, spot cleaned when necessary, and rarely completely 
emerged in water. Water makes the quilt quite heavy -- one person would 
have trouble lifting it -- and weakens the cotton fibers making them 
shred. Normally the filling would have remained quite flat within the 
quilt.


You can buy raw cotton by the bale here: http://www.cottonman.com/



Dawn


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RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Robin Netherton

From Kate:

 Robin wrote:

 Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that
 happens every day in every university library and Kinko's.

 and Fran replied

 Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every
 day somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

Kate adds:

 I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library
 copying of a section of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private
 study is perfectly legal.

Yes, exactly. In my post, I was attempting to draw a contrast between this sort 
of legal fair-use copying of small bits -- routine and unremarkable -- vs. the 
question of copying whole books, as discussed in the preceding paragraph of my 
post. It appears I didn't draw the distinction clearly enough to be understood 
by all, and I appreciate you and Andrew making my point clearer.

The example I gave here was my (perfectly legal) practice of copying a page or 
two here and there (along with the title page and publishing info of the book) 
so I have an accurate record of material I am citing or quoting in a scholarly 
article. I learned to do this when I realized how hard it was to read my own 
handwriting in notes that were many years old, or found that I needed to check 
something like a city of publication to put in a footnote. I sometimes do this 
even with books I own so I have all the quotations for a given article in the 
same file. Plus I can happily run a highlighter over text on a Xerox!

Kinko's, by the way, is an American chain of copy centers. That is, they were 
plain-old copy centers when they started sprouting up on college campuses a 
couple of decades ago. Now they also offer Fedex shipping, office supplies, and 
a bewildering array of printing/fax/computer services. They're open 24 hours 
and I have spent many a late night there. I once assembled an anniversary-gift 
scrapbook there at 3am using their nice selection of acid-free decorative 
papers and their good paper cutter. I figure the only thing they're missing now 
is a coffee bar.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press







Ah: So you think anything you wish to do and that benefits you is
ethical as long as you don’t get caught?



Anyone who could take my extremely specific statement


 above and make the subsequent sweeping (and very much incorrect)

 inference is not worth engaging in conversation.


--Robin



It's not a broad and sweeping statement.  What you seem to have said, in 
terms of one branch of ethics and law, is that whether a person obeys it 
depends on whether it is convenient and economical for them to do so, 
and whether they think the value of any research they may be doing 
automatically overrides the author's legal and moral rights.  Note, I 
have not attributed this to _your_ actions regarding copyright, but it 
seems to be a stance you approve, or that you are urging other people to 
approve.  As it's one of the standard copyright pirate arguments, it is 
not a stance that I can approve.


And not regarding you, but people in general, no, I don't trust my 
personal property with anyone who says they feel it's OK to steal 
intellectual property.  Of course, I did quit opening my personal 
library to people many years ago when I found out that one of them 
walked out with one of my books under her cape because she couldn't 
afford it, then bragged to other people about doing so.


As for engaging me in conversation, you have already taken the absurd 
stance of talking about my statements behind my back as it were, to a 
group where you know very well I am present.  So it seems that even 
though you are engaging me in conversation, you will not admit to 
condescending to do so.  I have no idea why you can't say whatever you 
have to say clearly and directly.  However, your obfuscating your 
statements with it's just for other people's education, and copyright 
is all so unclear and hard to understand anyway, does not make it 
easier for me to understand what you mean.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press



Fair use, people. Fair use.
http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test

The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain 
English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in 
his system.


Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, 
you can check out the Stanford Copyright  Fair Use Center 
http://fairuse.stanford.edu/. They've got their own explanation of the 
Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:
http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/chapter9/9-b.html 




The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such as 
I'm not making any money from it or I work for an educational 
institution and assume that everything they want to do with material 
they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety of criteria 
they must meet.  Also, even, some people wave around the term fair 
use, as if to say, Well it exists, so whatever I'm doing must be fair 
use.  Not so.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Cin
I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Beteena Paradise
I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in 
a manner which was a bit less off-putting.
  
Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such as 
I'm not making any money from it or I work for an educational 
institution and assume that everything they want to do with material 
they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety of criteria 
they must meet. Also, even, some people wave around the term fair 
use, as if to say, Well it exists, so whatever I'm doing must be fair 
use. Not so.

Fran
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos--to Sylvia

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
Actually, instead of posting on a costuming list, what I'd recommend you 
to do is this:


Go to the head of your department.  Ask, What are the departmental 
and/or university copyright guidelines for my use of this kind of 
material, in this manner, in my lectures?  Please give me a copy of 
printed guidelines.  And if we don't have any, the university lawyers 
should develop some. I want to do the right thing ethically, and other 
instructors probably do too. We need the proper official and legal 
guidance to help us.


Because, the university _should_ have such guidelines.  The thing is: 
When someone is sued, it is quite usual to name everyone possible in the 
suit, but especially, the parties with deep pockets.  The university 
probably has deeper pockets as a business/organization, than you do as 
an individual. So if you're an employee, both you and they are likely to 
be sued if someone objects to any copyrights of theirs that you violate. 
 Thus the university has a strong vested interest in helping you do the 
right thing.


Let us suppose, for the sake of argument, that you are not a university 
employee, but someone giving workshops for an organization like the SCA. 
  I am here going by what I know of California law, which may differ in 
other states.  Under California law, an employer does not have the same 
responsibilities for an independent contractor that they do for an 
employee. And if someone is named in a suit, and they are a peripheral 
party, they do not necessarily have to stay in it; their lawyers devise 
arguments as to why they should be allowed to withdraw, placing the 
entire burden of the suit on the other party(ies) named.  In other 
words, in California at least, an employer sued along with an 
independent contractor can cut themselves loose from the suit, placing 
the entire burden on the contractor. (After some argument on the part of 
the employer's lawyers in the many letters, hearings, etc. that occur 
before the suit actually comes to trial, which can easily take about a 
year.) If an employer or organization who is faced with spending a lot 
of time and money defending themselves for a violation of law committed 
by an independent contractor of his or own free will, can get out of the 
situation by placing the entire legal burden on the contractor, they are 
likely to do so.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Sylvia Rognstad wrote:


So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, huh?

Sylrog
On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
applies to every nonfiction work).






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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press

Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

Fran

Cin wrote:


I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
No library determines US copyright law.  What you are describing is 
merely the policy of your particular library.


Fran



I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section
of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby


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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Chiara Francesca
Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.

Chiara Francesca


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 2:15 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is wearing wool for winter

2007-10-04 Thread Kathy Stormberg
My dressmaker's dummy is graced with a navy blue wool dress with a round red 
neckline and (future) red cuffs, seams in progress of finishing with dark 
green wool herringbone stitch on outside.  It is a semi-fitted gored tunic 
type dress.  Future embroidery in Medici wool for collar, cuffs and hemline.


Original styling of dress loosely based on dresses in Codex Manesse, 
embroidery to be German influenced but I'm not trying for period perfect.


According to the proprietor of the store where I buy Medici wool, it has 
been discontinued by the manufacturer (DMC).  This is a shame as it is much 
finer than anything else I have seen in wool.  Anyone know of a good 
substitution for the day when I use up all my stash?


-Kathy


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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Beteena Paradise
Currently two gothic fitted dresses. One long sleeved underdress and a short 
sleeved overdress which is awaiting tippets.  :) 

Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  
copyrights discussions. Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

I second this,
Its so sad we have to have that disgussion so manny times!
My dummie is empty, but soon its going to wear a polonaise jacket wich i 
plan to embroider.


Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Dawn

Cin wrote:


Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?


There's no room in my sewing room for such a thing but projects in 
process include:


* goth-y gypsy skirt for a client

I ran out of black cotton for this and need to go shopping this weekend. 
Fortunately Joann's is having a 50% coupon sale, so I will just buy a 
whole bolt.


* early 16th century Italian market woman dress for me

I got it cut and assembled, and am sewing on 1 wide silk trim strips as 
my arthritis permits the hand sewing. I might actually finish before the 
end of renfest.



* early 18th century men's 'pirate' coat for my husband

The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick 
small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use. 
It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.




Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Oct 4, 2007, at 12:02 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:



Fair use, people. Fair use.
http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test
The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain  
English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty  
in his system.
Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed)  
view, you can check out the Stanford Copyright  Fair Use Center  
http://fairuse.stanford.edu/. They've got their own explanation  
of the Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed:
http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/ 
chapter9/9-b.html



The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such  
as I'm not making any money from it or I work for an educational  
institution and assume that everything they want to do with  
material they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety  
of criteria they must meet.  Also, even, some people wave around  
the term fair use, as if to say, Well it exists, so whatever I'm  
doing must be fair use.  Not so.


And yet you argue against generalizations with more generalizations.

Sylvia was describing (although I look to her to verify this) copying  
individual photographs from sources of historical fashion for class  
presentation and/or course packs. At first glance, that qualifies as  
fair use.


Let's run through the tests (I'll use the UT version, it's easier to  
understand) to confirm:

FACTOR 1: What is the character of the use?
It's educational, a high-ranking use under this test. It may also be  
non-profit (another high-ranking use), but I don't know anything  
about the institution or organization for which she's teaching this  
class.


FACTOR 2: What is the nature of the work to be used?
It's probably fact (the material in the images isn't likely to be  
original to the copyright holder on the work and may, itself, be in  
the public domain even if the photograph itself isn't) and it's  
published. High-ranking classifications under this test


FACTOR 3: How much of the work will you use?
A small amount, if you're qualifying the book as the work and not the  
photo (which is the norm). Since #1 and #2 already point towards fair  
use, even if it was claimed that the photo was the work, it may be  
justifiable as fair use.


FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it  
have on the market for the original or for permissions?
After evaluation of the first three factors, the proposed use is  
tipping towards fair use


So it looks like Sylvia is in the clear at a basic level.

andy
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Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff

2007-10-04 Thread Deredere Galbraith
My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween 
cape for my husband.

We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the house.
Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some 
scary movies.

Maybe some blood smears on them.
In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles 
and a morgue sign.
One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape 
in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen 
floor like at a crime seen

Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them

I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is wearing wool for winter

2007-10-04 Thread Carmen Beaudry
My dummy is currently naked, because the pink and black flamenco dress is 
finally done and delivered to the customer.  It's a gorgeous dress, with a 
black taffeta bodice embroidered with shaded pink flowering vines, and the 
ruffled sleeves and skirt ruffles done in alternating light and dark pink. 
I'm supposed to get pictures soon.


Next on the list is either an early 17th cen. French gown, or an early Tudor 
gown, depending on which customer gets me the fabric first.


Melusine 


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[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 464

2007-10-04 Thread Tori Ruhl
Mine's nekkid*gasp*
I'm working on a doublet for my husband but I can't put in on my ladies 
formthe girly bits get in the way. 


What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 




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RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread ruthanneb
But you'll have a very hard time getting ANY published material copied at 
Kinko's. Ten years or so ago they were the subject of a big copyright-violation 
suit because they were helping/encouraging faculty to make their own 
textbooks with photocopied materials, and neither the faculty nor Kinko's 
pursued the necessary permissions. Since then, Kinko's has been DEFINITELY 
once burned, twice shy with copying. Some years ago I wanted to make little 
thank-you cards for my TWELFTH NIGHT cast, and since we had danced a lavolta as 
our curtain call I wanted to put Queen Elizabeth I Dancing with Robert Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester on the front of the card. For that I needed (lacking a color 
scanner and a color printer at home) a color photocopy of the paintingand 
the counterperson at Kinko's WOULD NOT PERMIT me to make a tiny copy for this 
innocuous purpose. Even UNpublished material: My truelove had to photocopy the 
rough draft of a repair manual he was writing, to ship it to the company he was 
writing it for--and that Kinko's counterperson, seeing technical drawings 
bearing the company's name, refused to copy it for him without a written 
release from the company.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
p.s. Office Max obliged both times

-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 4, 2007 2:43 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos


From Kate:

 Robin wrote:

 Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that
 happens every day in every university library and Kinko's.

 and Fran replied

 Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every
 day somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

Kate adds:

Kinko's, by the way, is an American chain of copy centers. That is, they were 
plain-old copy centers when they started sprouting up on college campuses a 
couple of decades ago. Now they also offer Fedex shipping, office supplies, 
and a bewildering array of printing/fax/computer services. They're open 24 
hours and I have spent many a late night there. I once assembled an 
anniversary-gift scrapbook there at 3am using their nice selection of 
acid-free decorative papers and their good paper cutter. I figure the only 
thing they're missing now is a coffee bar.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care 
less if people think I'm nicey-nice.


Fran


Beteena Paradise wrote:


I think everyone gets your point. Too bad the point couldn't have been made in 
a manner which was a bit less off-putting.
  


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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
Congratulations on being close to the end of your project and stretching 
yourself to do it (only an assumption, based on your saying it was your hardest 
project). 
 
Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:39 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Since you ask, what is going on in my life is that I'm finishing up the
biggest and in many ways, the hardest book project I've ever done.  I
spend all day every day staring at a computer monitor.  No juicy gossip
or room for speculation there, I'm afraid.

Nor am I being especially caustic.  I've never made any secret of the
fact that I'm not people-oriented, and I think it would be ridiculous to
guide my life by what people think of me. I'm much more interested in
ideas.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com http://www.lavoltapress.com/ 




Rickard, Patty wrote:

 Hello Fran,
 
 Is there something else going on in your life right now?


  don't recall your being so caustic before.
 
 Patty

 

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lavolta Press
 Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



 Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

 Fran

 Cin wrote:


I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
Since you ask, what is going on in my life is that I'm finishing up the 
biggest and in many ways, the hardest book project I've ever done.  I 
spend all day every day staring at a computer monitor.  No juicy gossip 
or room for speculation there, I'm afraid.


Nor am I being especially caustic.  I've never made any secret of the 
fact that I'm not people-oriented, and I think it would be ridiculous to 
guide my life by what people think of me. I'm much more interested in 
ideas.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




Rickard, Patty wrote:

Hello Fran, 
 
Is there something else going on in your life right now? 



 don't recall your being so caustic before.
 
Patty




From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

Fran

Cin wrote:



I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
 





The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick
small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use.
It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.



Dawn
 
 
Duh, I never thought of doing that. 
 
Thanks,
Patty
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press



Sharon Collier wrote:


What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a new
publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just part of
the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for them to use on
their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one individually. 



This depends on whether the new publication is a reprint or not.

A reprint is material that is published exactly as is. No editing. No 
redrawing of illustrations. No selection and organization of materials 
for an anthology; or a selection and organization that is so obvious as 
to require no originality.


For example, every single poem by Robert Burns ever published, reprinted 
exactly as first published in the exact order of first publication, is a 
reprint.  If the poems are chosen by arbitrary criteria such as best 
poems, and/or organized by arbitrary criteria such as nature poems, 
love poems, Scottish poems, etc., then this is a new anthology 
covered by modern copyright, and copying significant portions of it is a 
copyright violation.


All new material added is covered by modern copyright, such as an 
introduction, footnotes, glossary, index, and/or appendices; and even, 
often, the page design and layout.  All modern translations from foreign 
languages are covered by copyright, just as if they had originally been 
written today in English.


If you have an exact reprint of a 16th-century blackwork manual (or the 
16th-century blackwork manual itself), yes, you can freely copy the 
images. If you are using someone else's redrawings or rechartings of the 
16th-century manual, you are violating their copyright, whether the 
students are given the material to trace or whether you photocopy it for 
them. Legally, they should be told to buy the textbook.


It is also legal for you to take the original 16th-century manual or an 
EXACT reprint (no editing, recharting, etc.), redraw/rechart the images 
yourself, and hand that work out to your students.  But you have to go 
back to the original.  You can't ride on someone else's previous work.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews
I usually buy the stuff from the chemist shop. It is in plates and very nice 
to work with.
Right now i am going to use it for the stuffing of a muff. I make a roll 
from it, from 3-4 layers of the plates, graduating in size.


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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RE: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
Oooh - don't forget the pass the scary objects game. Blindfolded - pass 
spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably lurid 
descriptions. 
 
BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding jackets (on 
hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for an age, either).
 
Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
cape for my husband.
We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the house.
Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some
scary movies.
Maybe some blood smears on them.
In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
and a morgue sign.
One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen
floor like at a crime seen
Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them

I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
NO, not necessarily. It is NOT legal to make any use of material you 
want just because you work for an educational institution. You have to 
meet a group of fair use factors, not just one of them. See my previous 
message, mentioning the factors of quantity of material used from one 
work or by one author, spontaneity (not having time for materials), not 
being a substitute for buying the works, and so on.


Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:


So it sounds like I'm ok, since I work for an educational institution, huh?

Sylrog
On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

Likewise, educational use legally applies to education that takes 
place within educational institutions, and not to an individual 
reading any book he or she may find informative (which after all 
applies to every nonfiction work).






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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press




And yet you argue against generalizations with more generalizations.


OK.  Here I am with Richard Stim's _Getting Permission:  How to License 
 Clear Copyrighted Materials Online  Off, which I strongly recommend, 
along with Stephem Fishman's _The Copyright Handbook.  And dutifully 
paraphrasing what they say in a way that does not violate their copyrights.


In an earlier message, I mentioned guidelines for educational use, in 
addition to the use being merely made by an instructor within an 
educational institution.  There is a specific set of educational fair 
use guidelines recognized by the US Copyright Office and in the courts 
as minimum standards. They are laid out in full in Circular 29, and 
according to Stim, are provided on the US Copyright Office website. I 
touched on them briefly earlier.  Some points particularly relevant to 
this discussion:


* The guidelines do apply to presentation of research findings at 
noncommercial educational workshops, lectures, etc., as well as within 
universities and other nonprofit, formal educational institutions. 
(However, I'd say that not all teaching is presentation of research 
findings or anything at all new.)


* The general idea seems to be to limit copying to only certain rather 
small quantities of a work, and to a certain rather small quantity of 
copying for the class as a whole.


*  They include guidelines for the amount of text used, and let's skip 
that for this discussion; please refer to Stim's book or to Circular 29. 
 For illustrations, the guidelines are One chart, graph, diagram, 
drawing, cartoon, or picture per book or per periodical issue.   Also, 
ony nine instances of such copying for one course during one school 
term are permitted. Also, the use has to be spontaneous; the instructor 
must have thought of it too late to ask for permission. The guidelines 
do not permit the copying of material from textbooks, workbooks, etc. 
created for educational use, as this would usurp the profits of 
educational publishers.


*  The bottom line is that the copying is not to be a substitute for 
having the students purchase the work(s).


Because digitizing materials is a fairly new technology, there are 
several sets of PROPOSED guidelines for using digitized materials for 
educational purposes, none of which have the force of law nor even, as 
far as I can tell, well-established use in court cases. But, that 
doesn't mean that no one will sue anyone over use of digitized works.



FACTOR 3: How much of the work will you use?
A small amount, if you're qualifying the book as the work and not the  
photo (which is the norm). Since #1 and #2 already point towards fair  
use, even if it was claimed that the photo was the work, it may be  
justifiable as fair use.


As far as copyright law goes, a book is not one huge block. Different 
elements have different copyrights. Especially, it is less defensible to 
copy and use something that is complete in itself:  One pattern, one 
poem, the set of instructions for one project.


As for pictures, not only are they usually complete in themselves, bear 
in mind that under US law (I understand that the laws of some foreign 
countries are different, but do not know the details for each country) 
photographs of paintings and other works of art have their own 
copyrights, indepedent of the copyright status of the work of art 
itself. Suppose a Renaissance painting is in an American museum, and the 
museum photographs it. They can, and often do, charge for the use of 
that photo.  If a different photographer photographs it someday, that 
photo has its own, different copyright.


Museums often charge for use of such photos in books, etc. It's one way 
they get some revenue.  In a book with photos of paintings from many 
museums, the author or publisher (who does the work and pays for the 
permissions depends on the publishing contract for that book) may have 
gone to a great deal of effort and paid a fair amount of money to get 
permission for each and every photo to be used in that book. That 
permission does not automatically extend to everyone else who wants to 
use the photo.


If the author, or an ilustrator hired by the author or publisher, has 
redrawn details of things like garment parts in the original works of 
art, for greater clarity, than those drawings have their own, modern 
copyrights.




FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it  
have on the market for the original or for permissions?


It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the copyright 
owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than the copyright 
violator, and the copyright owner can present that evidence in court.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
Hello Fran, 
 
Is there something else going on in your life right now? I don't recall your 
being so caustic before.
 
Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 3:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?



Do you have a delete key or email filters, by any chance?

Fran

Cin wrote:

 I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
 chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
 Please?
 What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Brangwyne

Needing to make a new one...in the shape of my GFD.

hehehehe

Starr



Currently two gothic fitted dresses. One long sleeved underdress and a 
short sleeved overdress which is awaiting tippets.  :)


Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  
copyrights discussions. Any

chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press



Rickard, Patty wrote:


Congratulations on being close to the end of your project


The end is relative, especially as a book printer will have it for at 
least two months after I finish with it.  I'll announce it on h-costume 
when it is available for sale.



 and stretching yourself to do it (only an assumption,

based on your saying it was your hardest project).

I don't enjoy doing things that aren't hard, or where I'm not learning 
anything.


Best,

Fran
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Dawn

Rickard, Patty wrote:


The wool is cut, but the linen lining is not ready. I still need to pick
small applique flowers off several more yards before it is ready to use.
It cost me $2 a yard, because of that small inconvenience.

 
Duh, I never thought of doing that. 
 


The trick is in recognizing what can be picked off. In this case, the 
flowers are sewn on through their centers with machine stitching, onto a 
machine stitched X on the fabric. So they come off rather easily with a 
seam ripper and some patience.


Another piece of delicious purple linen I bought has the flowers glued 
on with hot glue. They come off easily with a steam iron, but leave glue 
blobs behind. I bought it anyway and made a cute, modern style cropped 
jacket, with butterfly brocade to go with the flowers.


There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so many 
motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth bothering with.




Dawn
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Oct 4, 2007, at 1:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:


FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would  
it  have on the market for the original or for permissions?


It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the  
copyright owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than  
the copyright violator, and the copyright owner can present that  
evidence in court.


I stated at the beginning that I was using the UT test as an example.  
Go back and read http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/ 
copypol2.htm#test.


Then come back with answers again, or with citations explaining how  
the analysis of their general counsel (who is trying to give their  
faculty as much freedom as possible while avoiding litigation) is  
incorrect.


andy


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Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff

2007-10-04 Thread Susan Data-Samtak

Patty,

What type of riding jackets?  Pictures, please?

I trail ride my Paso Fino, Oscar.  We also do some sidesaddle riding. 
That's a reason I am on this list - to learn about correct riding 
clothing for various Time Periods.


Susan (NJ)

Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.  - Ride the Dark
Trail by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:33 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

Oooh - don't forget the pass the scary objects game. Blindfolded - 
pass spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably 
lurid descriptions.


BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding 
jackets (on hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for 
an age, either).


Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
cape for my husband.
We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the 
house.

Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some
scary movies.
Maybe some blood smears on them.
In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
and a morgue sign.
One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen
floor like at a crime seen
Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them

I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so  
many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth  
bothering with.


If it's not bulky embellishment, it may still be good as lining or  
interlining. I've got some ugly olive-drab linen with an uglier umber- 
ish basketweave embroidery pattern on it. Got it dirt cheap. I've got  
enough to line quite a few garments...


andy
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread cahuff
Well I don't own one, yet...but my sewing table has a pair of stays 
almost done, Cloth piled up to make 17th/18th cent skirts and the 
muslin staring at me to do the mock ups for a set of 17th men's 
breeches/pants/whatever G

Once the stay's are done it's a toss up as to what gets cut out next...
Ta
Carol--still dithering over which dressmaker's dummy to get...being a 
weird, large inbetween shape, and the duct tape one has melted...

--
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Cin
From: Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.

I dont think I can top that.

Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded
taffeta, the collar  cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs
sleeves, closures  a hem.
Adonis is, all Adonises should be, nekkid as a jaybird with a womans
1890s chip straw hat embellished with ostrich feathers, orange taffeta
ribbon  roses.

The heads:
Anne, Catherine  Charles are wearing:
* Clara Eugenia's hat from the de Llano portrait.
* A kiss me quick bonnet c1840s trimmed with parrot feathers.
* A small butterfly hennin of gold silk shot with brass threads (which
one might call cloth of brass).  The brass wires to support the veil
are too short  flimsy. This hat needs a bit of reworking.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
I'm sorry, but the UT test is not the only available information on 
copyright.  I am not obligated to consider it so.  Why do you not 
instead read circular 29, or Richard Stim's _Getting Permission_?


Fran

Andrew T Trembley wrote:


On Oct 4, 2007, at 1:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:



FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would  it  
have on the market for the original or for permissions?



It can have a great deal of effect.  Bear in mind that the  copyright 
owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than  the 
copyright violator, and the copyright owner can present that  evidence 
in court.



I stated at the beginning that I was using the UT test as an example.  
Go back and read http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/ 
copypol2.htm#test.


Then come back with answers again, or with citations explaining how  the 
analysis of their general counsel (who is trying to give their  faculty 
as much freedom as possible while avoiding litigation) is  incorrect.


andy


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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Susan Data-Samtak

1880s skirt with a blouse that I am hoping to fit into, soon!

Susan

Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.  - Ride the Dark
Trail by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 6:06 PM, Cin wrote:


From: Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Heh ... Mardi Gras beads and a cat toy ... don't ask.


I dont think I can top that.

Euphrosnia is wearing a 1470s houppeland in beige silk brocaded
taffeta, the collar  cuffs are dark chocolate brown velvet. It needs
sleeves, closures  a hem.
Adonis is, all Adonises should be, nekkid as a jaybird with a womans
1890s chip straw hat embellished with ostrich feathers, orange taffeta
ribbon  roses.

The heads:
Anne, Catherine  Charles are wearing:
* Clara Eugenia's hat from the de Llano portrait.
* A kiss me quick bonnet c1840s trimmed with parrot feathers.
* A small butterfly hennin of gold silk shot with brass threads (which
one might call cloth of brass).  The brass wires to support the veil
are too short  flimsy. This hat needs a bit of reworking.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[h-cost] Licensed art images for educational institutions...

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew T Trembley
If you're working for for a school or university that is a  
subscriber, check out ARTstor.

http://www.artstor.org/

Alas, my employer isn't a participant.

andy
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Paula Praxis

I was kinda feeling the same but I realize that valid points were made all 
around.
 
Pricilla is wearing a mock-up of a runway - fashionn show - gown for Aida. 
Penny is wearing the beginning stages of 'Amneris's wedding gown and poor 
Petula is once again in a man's costume - some sort of slave atire.
I love this thread and am always inspired and amazed at the varity of things  
you all are making.
Paula Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 12:14:48 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] CC:  Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy 
wearing?  I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions. 
Any chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic? Please? What's 
your dressmakers dummy wearing? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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[h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s

2007-10-04 Thread stilskin
Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the 1940s 
home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 100-odd pages 
from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a dozen 
different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives descriptions that 
are superior to any I have read elsewhere.

The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old such as 
the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new outfit 
for you.

It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern over the old 
pieces and really is a very clever thing.

My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out across the 
world in 1946:

Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just cannot wait to 
get out of this uniform and into my good old...

-C.



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press




Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was the  
foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out by not  
arguing on the points and positions.


Nope.  It's quite as reasonable for me to run you around and waste your 
time--or rather, act as an e-list troll--and insist that unless you 
write little essays on the books that I assign YOU to read that you are 
taking the easy way out, as for you to try that game on me.  I've been 
a publishing professional, I've dealt with copyright professionally for 
over 23 years, and in my brother, I have a lawyer to consult close at 
hand.  I don't need to prove myself to you.


So, my first assignment for YOU is for YOU to go buy Richard Stim's 
_Getting Permissions:  How to License  Clear Copyrighted Materials 
Online  Off._  It's readily available on the Nolo Press website, on 
Amazon.com, and probably in libraries.  It contains an extensive 
discussion of this issue.  I'm also assigning you to read Stephen 
Fishman's _The Copyright Handbook_ and his _The Public Domain:  How to 
Find  Use Copyright-Free Writings, Music, Art  More_, available from 
the same sources. I need a a 5 to- 10 page, double-spaced essay on fair 
use of materials in nonprofit educational settings, based on these three 
works, which I expect you to have read thoroughly and objectively. It's 
due on Sunday.


Unless you prove yourself to me in this fashion, you're taking the easy 
way out.  After all, I'm setting the rules of the game.


Enjoy!

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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RE: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Linda Rice
Thank you!

Hmmm... I just finished up my part in a WW1 dress for a friend. She took
it home this afternoon to hem and put the buttons on, to be ready to
wear this weekend. 

Next up is a couple of sets of Viking pants and tunics. After that I
need to finally get around to doing a simple Colonial set for me. That
project has been put on hold for too many years- and I'm missing out on
events because I don't have proper kit. Grr. 

And I just started weaving lessons. That'll keep me busy for a while! 

::Linda::


-Original Message-
On Behalf Of Cin
Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
Please?
What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Beteena Paradise
For F---'s sake, can't you take this to email? Or just let it go already? This 
is really getting ridiculous. And please do not tell me to create a filter 
because, if I am not mistaken, the email group is called Historic Costume not 
My copyright book is bigger than your copyright book or I need to express my 
opinion until the beaten horse is not only dead but pulverized until there are 
no discernable lumps left except for those on the foreheads of everyone else on 
this list from banging their friggin heads against the desk.
   
  
Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 stuff said by Andy and quoted by Fran

  Fran's opinion

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press

If you want the discussion to end, don't post on it.

Fran

Beteena Paradise wrote:


For F---'s sake, can't you take this to email? Or just let it go already? This is really getting ridiculous. 
And please do not tell me to create a filter because, if I am not mistaken, the email group is called 
Historic Costume not My copyright book is bigger than your copyright book or I 
need to express my opinion until the beaten horse is not only dead but pulverized until there are no 
discernable lumps left except for those on the foreheads of everyone else on this list from banging their 
friggin heads against the desk.
   
  
Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



stuff said by Andy and quoted by Fran



  Fran's opinion

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was  
the  foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out  
by not  arguing on the points and positions.


Nope.  It's quite as reasonable for me to run you around and waste  
your time--or rather, act as an e-list troll--and insist that  
unless you write little essays on the books that I assign YOU to  
read that you are taking the easy way out, as for you to try that  
game on me.  I've been a publishing professional, I've dealt with  
copyright professionally for over 23 years, and in my brother, I  
have a lawyer to consult close at hand.  I don't need to prove  
myself to you.



I work for a university. We participated in the CSU-SUNY-CUNY Work  
Group on Ownership, Legal Rights of Use
and Fair Use. I listen to our general counsel, who continues to  
update the work group's Fair Use
of Copyrighted Works: A Crucial Element in Educating America. I  
chose the UT website because it provides a more detailed explanation  
of the fair use test, but it's exactly the same fair use test that  
our general counsel provides to faculty

http://www.calstate.edu/GC/Docs/Fair_Use.doc.

andy
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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
Regardless, someone who plays a game where they insist _they_ are 
setting all the rules for a public discussion, and offers no 
contribution except references to a website they did not write, and then 
insists that a specific person who does not write essays on the subject 
at their command using only the reference they happened to have pointed to:


Is a troll.

Perhaps some other list member would like to oblige you:  After all, 
this is not a private discussion.  I have better things to do.


Fran




I work for a university. We participated in the CSU-SUNY-CUNY Work  
Group on Ownership, Legal Rights of Use
and Fair Use. I listen to our general counsel, who continues to  update 
the work group's Fair Use
of Copyrighted Works: A Crucial Element in Educating America. I  chose 
the UT website because it provides a more detailed explanation  of the 
fair use test, but it's exactly the same fair use test that  our general 
counsel provides to faculty

http://www.calstate.edu/GC/Docs/Fair_Use.doc.

andy


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RE: [h-cost] OT riding jackets

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
Hi Susan,
 
Just modern, I'm afraid. I lost my dressage partner last December (33 yr.old 
Trakehner - actually, he'd been a lawn ornament for a while), so my jackets 
were just lower level show jackets. I did get a sidesaddle habit  was looking 
for a sidesaddle for a while, but he and I seemed to trade off being sound).
 
NE Ohio seems to be a Paso Fino hotbed, so I have several friends with Pasos - 
lovely horses. How do you like riding aside?
 
Patty
 
 



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Susan Data-Samtak
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 5:45 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



Patty,

What type of riding jackets?  Pictures, please?

I trail ride my Paso Fino, Oscar.  We also do some sidesaddle riding.
That's a reason I am on this list - to learn about correct riding
clothing for various Time Periods.

Susan (NJ)

Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.  - Ride the Dark
Trail by Louis L'Amour

On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:33 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:

 Oooh - don't forget the pass the scary objects game. Blindfolded -
 pass spaghetti (cooked), cooked (canned) plums, etc. with suitably
 lurid descriptions.

 BTW, my dummy is wearing her little cloth cover with two riding
 jackets (on hangers) hanging off the top. (I haven't been riding for
 an age, either).

 Patty

 

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Deredere Galbraith
 Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 4:09 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dressmaker's dummy is halloween stuff



 My dummy is wearing an absolutely ugly synthetic cheap black Halloween
 cape for my husband.
 We bought it from Smiffys along with some other fun Halloween stuff.
 He is going to be lord Dracula and I will be Corpse Bride.
 I am having so much fun thinking of how I am going to decorate the
 house.
 Planning on hanging plastic in front of the living room door as in some
 scary movies.
 Maybe some blood smears on them.
 In the front garden there will be a cross with some graveyard candles
 and a morgue sign.
 One of the kitchen doors will be open but will have red and white tape
 in front of it and a sign keep out and than a silhouette on the kitchen
 floor like at a crime seen
 Green lemonade with floating eyeballs in them

 I hope so that some of the guest will be in fun costumes.




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Re: [h-cost] cotton wool

2007-10-04 Thread Adele de Maisieres

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
I usually buy the stuff from the chemist shop. It is in plates and 
very nice to work with.
Right now i am going to use it for the stuffing of a muff. I make a 
roll from it, from 3-4 layers of the plates, graduating in size.



I favour cotton quilt batting for the same sort of thing.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
-

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[h-cost] Moderator?

2007-10-04 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
I think this list needs a moderator to keep things from getting out of 
hand as they are now.  Insults should be posted privately, I think.  
Let's all try to be as polite as we would be in person--assuming we 
are! ;-)


Sylrog

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RE: repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummywearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Rickard, Patty
What great ideas - where was my brain? I've passed up lots of that stuff.
 
Patty



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Andrew T Trembley
Sent: Thu 10/4/2007 5:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers 
dummywearing?



On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
 There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so 
 many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth 
 bothering with.

If it's not bulky embellishment, it may still be good as lining or 
interlining. I've got some ugly olive-drab linen with an uglier umber-
ish basketweave embroidery pattern on it. Got it dirt cheap. I've got 
enough to line quite a few garments...

andy
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Re: [h-cost] Moderator?

2007-10-04 Thread Lavolta Press
I'm perfectly willing to drop the subject if everyone else is.  In this 
case, troll is not an insult, but I think a very accurate description. 
As I've already said, I'm not falling for it.


So, instead of the satisfaction of getting me punished by a moderator 
when I've already dropped a discussion someone is continuing, will you 
settle for having me just drop it?


Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

I think this list needs a moderator to keep things from getting out of 
hand as they are now.  Insults should be posted privately, I think.  
Let's all try to be as polite as we would be in person--assuming we are! 
;-)


Sylrog

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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Wendi Dunlap

Lavolta Press wrote:

As for pictures, not only are they usually complete in themselves, bear 
in mind that under US law (I understand that the laws of some foreign 
countries are different, but do not know the details for each country) 
photographs of paintings and other works of art have their own 
copyrights, indepedent of the copyright status of the work of art 
itself. Suppose a Renaissance painting is in an American museum, and the 
museum photographs it. They can, and often do, charge for the use of 
that photo.  If a different photographer photographs it someday, that 
photo has its own, different copyright.


Not as black and white as all that anymore -- see Bridgeman v. Corel, as 
I mentioned yesterday. It is possible that such exact photographs of 
public domain works are no longer copyrightable in the US unless there 
is some additional creative content. See 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridgeman_Art_Library_v._Corel_Corp. for a 
relatively accessible explanation of this. But as it mentions, it has 
yet to be cited by any appellate-level circuit court; it's not 
*officially* the law of the land yet.


This does mean, however, if you copy an exact photograph of a 
Renaissance painting for your SCA Renaissance costuming class, you are 
probably going to be OK -- in the US. Probably. But not certainly. 
Anything can happen, and at some point, this might be tested at the 
Supreme Court level, and it could be you who gets sued in the process. 
But Bridgeman v. Corel at least means (to me, anyway) that you can use 
those types of images in the US with a clear conscience, as the original 
works are public domain, and the photographs themselves are probably not 
copyrightable based on Bridgeman v Corel.


(The sad thing is, even if you are in the right, you can still get sued, 
and it can still cost you a lot of money. But that is up to each of us 
to decide whether to take that risk, I guess.)


W
(For what it's worth, I think this decision is correct; once works are 
in the public domain, an owner of the physical work should not be able 
to de facto re-copyright them, as many museums have essentially 
attempted to do. I know they get income from it, but hijacking the 
public domain is unethical, and in a way contrary to the general 
mission of most museums. But that is just my opinion.)



*---+---+--*
 \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear/
 / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  | 23  \
*--Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought*
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread michaela de bruce
 What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

 A few pins.


Now my other dummy, my full length these are my curves (OMGargh!)
dummy is wearing a non historical item that is still in the process of
being made. And no I can't say what that is. Suffice to say she is
practically nekkid at this point because I really am at the very
beginning stages!
She does though have a full length body suit stitched in place so she
can have more defined butt cheeks and breasts which will help in
drafting trousers and other body suits later.

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com
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RE: [h-cost] Troll? (also dress dummy)

2007-10-04 Thread zelda crusher

I took Fran's advice earlier to delete the costume photos subject lines 
rather than slog through it all, but this came thru as I was reading 'what's on 
your dress dummy'.
For a minute I wondered what I was missing that could have led to the below 
quote, but then I realized that the god of email was just letting me have a 
laugh without any of the pain.
 
Unfortunately, my dress dummy is wearing a bag of plastic bags while my 
daughter cleans her room (which is also my sewing room) and I, alas, am reduced 
to sewing fold-em-up essential oil holders for my store.  Boring, assembly line 
production, but at least the fabrics are pretty...
 
Laurie
 
 Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2007 16:48:56 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]  In this  
 case, troll is not an insult, but I think a very accurate description.  
_
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by 
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RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Sharon Collier
The students are 9-11 yrs. old and we only have 6 45 min. classes. I don't
think I can ask them to buy a book for that.  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 11:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos



Sharon Collier wrote:

 What about using designs that are hundreds of years old, but are in a
new
 publication. I teach a blackwork class to 4-5 graders (no fee, just 
 part of the Fines Arts Block at my son's school)and copy images for 
 them to use on their samplers, as it is easier than tracing each one
individually.


This depends on whether the new publication is a reprint or not.

A reprint is material that is published exactly as is. No editing. No
redrawing of illustrations. No selection and organization of materials for
an anthology; or a selection and organization that is so obvious as to
require no originality.

For example, every single poem by Robert Burns ever published, reprinted
exactly as first published in the exact order of first publication, is a
reprint.  If the poems are chosen by arbitrary criteria such as best
poems, and/or organized by arbitrary criteria such as nature poems, 
love poems, Scottish poems, etc., then this is a new anthology covered
by modern copyright, and copying significant portions of it is a copyright
violation.

All new material added is covered by modern copyright, such as an
introduction, footnotes, glossary, index, and/or appendices; and even,
often, the page design and layout.  All modern translations from foreign
languages are covered by copyright, just as if they had originally been
written today in English.

If you have an exact reprint of a 16th-century blackwork manual (or the
16th-century blackwork manual itself), yes, you can freely copy the images.
If you are using someone else's redrawings or rechartings of the
16th-century manual, you are violating their copyright, whether the students
are given the material to trace or whether you photocopy it for them.
Legally, they should be told to buy the textbook.

It is also legal for you to take the original 16th-century manual or an
EXACT reprint (no editing, recharting, etc.), redraw/rechart the images
yourself, and hand that work out to your students.  But you have to go back
to the original.  You can't ride on someone else's previous work.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Thursday 04 October 2007, Cin wrote:
 I'm bored with the medical, trademarks  copyrights discussions.  Any
 chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic?
 Please?
 What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

My purely notional dummy is wearing nothing at the moment, but will soon sport 
yet another early-period type shift--this one with a speculative collar, 
based purely on a reconstruction drawing in a book on early Lithuanian 
costume.

After that, I plan to attempt a reconstruction of the Viking era costume based 
on this find:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/sarafan/sarafan.htm



-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information 
available.-- Gregory Benford

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[h-cost] Re: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?

2007-10-04 Thread A. Thurman
It's layered at the moment because I've got two projects in play:

1) a PVC version of a leather vest from the tv show Firefly that is
currently on hold until I find the right buckles and other notions to
complete it.

2) Over it is a white linen 16th c. shift which I am working on (along
with a shirt) as part of a base for a 16th century wardrobe suitable
for SCA events and the like.

Allison T.
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RE: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Sharon Collier
Thanks! I never thought of Dover. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos

On Thursday 04 October 2007, Sharon Collier wrote:
 The students are 9-11 yrs. old and we only have 6 45 min. classes. I 
 don't think I can ask them to buy a book for that.

Doesn't Dover have any books of public-domain clip art that would serve the
purpose?

--
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
available.-- Gregory Benford

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[h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Chris Laning


On Oct 4, 2007, at 12:09 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

But you'll have a very hard time getting ANY published material  
copied at Kinko's. Ten years or so ago they were the subject of a  
big copyright-violation suit because they were helping/encouraging  
faculty to make their own textbooks with photocopied materials,  
and neither the faculty nor Kinko's pursued the necessary  
permissions. Since then, Kinko's has been DEFINITELY once burned,  
twice shy with copying. Some years ago I wanted to make little  
thank-you cards for my TWELFTH NIGHT cast, and since we had danced  
a lavolta as our curtain call I wanted to put Queen Elizabeth I  
Dancing with Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester on the front of the  
card. For that I needed (lacking a color scanner and a color  
printer at home) a color photocopy of the paintingand the  
counterperson at Kinko's WOULD NOT PERMIT me to make a tiny copy  
for this innocuous purpose. Even UNpublished material: My truelove  
had to photocopy the rough draft of a repair manual he was writing,  
to ship it to the company he was writing it for--and that Kinko's  
counterperson, seeing technical drawings bearing the company's  
name, refused to copy it for him without a written release from the  
company.


The conscientious counter person at Kinko's once tried to refuse me  
permission to make multiple copies of MY OWN WORK because it had a  
copyright notice on it.


I eventually convinced the manager that it was okay, but I was quite  
amused. :)




OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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RE: repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummywearing?

2007-10-04 Thread otsisto
For $2 a yd. 100% linen medium weight. White with black appliqued linen
flowers. Took the flowers off and now I have a solid white linen material. I
plan on attaching the flowers together to make a long vest, may line it with
another color or fancy crochet/needle work bettween the flowers.
For $1 a yd. 100% linen, white, medium weight with med.sized crabs
embroidered all over. Could not remove the crabs but the spacing of the
crabs allow the making of a Tudor style shift. Because you basically only
see the solid white neckline and not the rest of the shift. And the extra
material will be drawers. Though I am sure there will be giggles about me
having crabs or being crabby. :] Other embroidered pieces that I can not
remove the design, are planned for under garments that most likely won't be
seen.

De


-Original Message-
On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote:
 There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so
 many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth
 bothering with.


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Re: repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakersdummywearing?

2007-10-04 Thread Brangwyne

And if they are, we all giggle about the wonderful design on them.

Hey, I saw a gown hand done 2 years ago at the Laurel's challenge with DUCKY 
cotton broadcloth lining. Was wonderful to pick up the hem and see that. Not 
to mention it was the talk of the challenge.


Starr


And the extra

material will be drawers. Though I am sure there will be giggles about me
having crabs or being crabby. :] Other embroidered pieces that I can not
remove the design, are planned for under garments that most likely won't 
be

seen.

De



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Re: [h-cost] costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread Andrew Trembley

Lavolta Press wrote:
So, my first assignment for YOU is for YOU to go buy Richard Stim's 
_Getting Permissions:  How to License  Clear Copyrighted Materials 
Online  Off._  It's readily available on the Nolo Press website, on 
Amazon.com, and probably in libraries.  It contains an extensive 
discussion of this issue.


Stim's work is the second reference I cited. He's the author of the 
Copyright and Fair Use Overview section at the Stanford's Copyright 
and Fair Use project. _Getting Permissions_ forms the core of that 
section. If you were checking citations instead of just tossing them 
around, you would have figured that out. I even cited him in a way that 
was easy for all the folks attempting to follow this discussion to follow.


http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/index.html

So yes, reading Stim is valuable. I did.

andy

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