Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[OK Don]

Exactly.
What the MAC doesn't have to deal with is a HUGE variety of hardware
and drivers. That's what makes a large part of the difference.

Using VPC, you've just eliminated the hardware issues. The VPC
presents the same virtual hardware to the OS, regardless of what's
underneath. That SHOULD make the OS about as stable as it can be,
given the stability of the host OS/hardware. Of course, I do blow up
the OS in VPCs, because that's what I'm testing -- what will happen
when I do this stupid thing or that  -- Recovery is just shut it down
with out saving the changes, back up in a virgin state in minutes.
Great stuff!

I had a graphics shop that was running on PCs, but they were
complaining about blowing up the PCs, not stable, etc. When they got
to printing color directly to the press, we OK'd the MACs - far better
color management.  Seems that those creative graphic artists can blow
up MACs just as fast as they did PCs - but no they have to support
themselves - we won't touch them.

On 4/7/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Say what? I can install Windows XP on ANYTHING in about 2 hours. OS 10.4 
> takes about the same...
>
>   Windows 98 was garbage, Windows 95 was also garbage. 2000 and XP are quite 
> stable and usable. The problem is the garbage that people load onto them. 
> Like the type R stickers that make cars go faster...
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 21:53:41 -0700
> From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
> It has more to do with hours wasted trying to keep the POS running.  If
> you have done installs of windows, you can see why a mac user will be
> very perplexed by a person willing to subject themselves to that
> torture.  Sort of the head scratch I have with Mistress Jill.  WTF gets
> into a boy to want to be hung up with tuna hooks on 100# test line?
>
> An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install
> can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.
>
>
>
> -
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
> starting at 1¢/min.
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] draining torque converter

[l02turner]

Hello Sunil,
I use a large flat blade screw driver and turn the engine by wedgeing the 
screwdriver in the hole next to the one the TC drain plug will appear and 
work the engine around - making sure to turn the engine in its normal 
direction od travel.  Clockwise when viewed standing in front of the car and 
looking toward the radiator IIRC.


Good luck - BTW, do me a favor - when you remove the TC plug, look so see if 
it has a alum washer on the plug please.


There's some smaller openings you;ll see near a large opening on the bottom 
of the torque converter housing - the plug will appear
in the larger opening.  Use the smaller openings to wedge the screwdriver 
in - and pry the TC around.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] draining torque converter


I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF filter.  How do 
you

turn the engine to line up the drain bolt on the TC?

In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft and
turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the minimum. 
Is

there an easier way to turn the engine?

Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine 
turn?


--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

[Hendrik Riessen]

I suppose an oven will get to a 105.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions



You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.


I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of
water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty
multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.3.5/300 - Release Date: 3/04/2006

Re: [MBZ] draining torque converter

[Jim Cathey]

In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft 
and


27mm, IIRC.  22mm is the PS pump, usually a fine alternative for
turning the engine over.

turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the 
minimum.  Is

there an easier way to turn the engine?


See above!  But working the wrench onto the crank nut is best
because you can work it while lying under the car looking for
the TC drain plug.

Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine 
turn?


Clockwise, when standing in front of it.  (Hint: look at fan blades.
They work _with_ the prevailing wind through the engine compartment.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

[Peter Frederick]

I had good luck with the 3M adhesive remover (contains solvents).  Same 
manufacturer as the correct adhesive.  Spray it on and let it soak a 
couple minutes, it will even soften up thick coats of Liquid Nails 
applied with a caulking gun.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Jim Cathey]

Drum roll please.

For sale, 1979 240D.  302kmi, auxiliary fuel tank.  Perfect
for biodiesel operation, has 1000 mile range.

Not perfect, but looks pretty good.  Rust-free.  Reluctant
cold-starter, but has started every time for me so far.
Very clean inside, you can date with this car and not be
ashamed.

$2500  See http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html for
pictures and more information.

OK, I don't expect you guys to buy it, I'm planning to list it
on nearby Craigs lists to start, especially in Seattle.  But I'd
appreciate feedback on the web site, etc.

I'm planning to redo the pictures if I can get a nice overcast
day while it's still clean.  The hazy sun resulted in pictures that
are much more washed-out looking than the car deserves.  Also need
to get an engine compartment shot, I seem to have forgotten that one.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My new  hood/heat pad arrived today and I spent most of 2 hours trying to 
get the remains of the old pad off so I can glue the new one into place.


While much of the foam is gone now, there's still some adhesive left, as 
well as some very short, hard foam.


Is there something that'll take the remainder off?  I've tried an Adhesive 
Remover we sell (worked pretty well but there;s residue), Acetone (did very 
little) and blasted with high prrssure water to get rid of the bits and 
pieces (worked) - I used a large weave scotch brite like pad with a handle 
attached -


But there;s still some hard stuff (that I may leave) - and some foam which I 
believe needs to come off.


The 3M Adhesive remover is about as good as it gets, but after the 
adhesive "cures" for 15-20 years, there is not much (short of atomic 
weapons) that is really effective. It is not necessary that the surface 
be absolutely flat - mine sure wasn't - just no BIG bumps. I used a 
wooden scraper.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] tonights project

[Luther Gulseth]

BZZT, "everything you" speaking to Kaleb who is in the  
same NWS region that I am in, Tulsa.  Norman supplies data to everyone.


On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 17:59:32 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


BZZT - wrong. Those folks are at the National Severe
Storms Lab here in Norman ---


They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with  
weather.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] tonights project

[OK Don]

BZZT - wrong. Those folks are at the National Severe
Storms Lab here in Norman ---


> They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with weather.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Marshall Booth]

R A Bennell wrote:

Wasn't there a thread on this not long ago. My recollection then, and please 
correct me if I am wrong, is that only
engines before a certain date needed oil actually added to the injection pump. 
I thought I had determined that my
1976 115 300D was new enough to lube the injection pump via the engine oil and 
did not need to look for  a plug to
pour oil into the pump itself. If that is not true, please correct me as I will 
do it and hope my predecessors had
enough sense to do so as well.


'76 and earlier 615/616 as well as older 636 and 621 diesel engines 
required that the engine oil in the pump be checked, topped up if 
required and if the oil was fuel contaminated, the fuel/oil mix needed 
to be displaced and replaced with oil every time the engine oil was changed.


This is at least as important as changing the engine oil, brake fluid 
and coolant in a timely fashion.


All the 3 liter engines and diesels manufactured after about 1976 were 
lubricated by the engine oil system and didn't require pump oil level 
checks.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] draining torque converter

[Sunil Hari]

I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF filter.  How do you
turn the engine to line up the drain bolt on the TC?

In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft and
turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the minimum.  Is
there an easier way to turn the engine?

Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine turn?

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 16:53:41 Marshall Booth Wrote:

The roof won't whistle when properly aligned. It's a matter of precise
positioning.

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Chassis/77-110.pdf

Marshall

Thank You, Marshall.  That DB is a GREAT source for proceedures on the web.
Just did not know if there was one thing in particular to be re-aligned to
make the wind noise go away.  Actually, I'm going to print it out and bring
it with me when the car goes back. (Nothin' like making new friends!)

I'm also going to try the dollar bill technique someone else suggested.

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300tdtimingchainissues)

[OK Don]

I'm guessing that Hue doesn't know about Big Baboon's history.
Bottom line is - buyer beware. Many horror stories. This list boycots
him for many reasons, not the least of which was his attempt to hijack
Rusty's business name.

On 4/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> yes
>
> Rick Knoble wrote:
>
> >>>Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
> >>>cheapest around...
> >>>
> >>
> >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1
> >>
> >
> > Isn't that Big Baboon?
> >
> > Rick Knoble
> > '85 300 CD
> > '87 190 DT

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] OK Don

[OK Don]

I spent yesterday traveling home from Vegas - got in at 1AM. Yes - am
pursuing you seller.

On 4/6/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> are you hanging around Seen my email?
>
> --
> Luther   KB5QHU
> Alma, Ark
> '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
> '82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
> '82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise. COSTLY

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 18:12:23, Peter T. Arnold wrote:

Need this work done on my 300SDL.  Did you use Indy or Dealership? MAy
I pry and ask the cost, I understand the "Angles" are about $425 for
the set.

Peter,

It was not cheapParts were ~$450.00.  Labor 4 hours @ $95 per. hour.
With tax and all, I think I paid ~$887 bucks. Probably would not have done
it if the car was not freshly painted and the worn out S/R parts were
causing it to ruin the paint every time I slid it open.  It was worth it,
since, aside from the air leak, I don't have to worry every time I open it.


Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

[Luther Gulseth]

pot of oil?

On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 17:37:59 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.


I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of
water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty
multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Jim Cathey]

I thought I had determined that my
1976 115 300D was new enough to lube the injection pump via the engine 
oil and did not need to look for  a plug to

pour oil into the pump itself.


The big red plug with "OEL" on it is right on top of the IP,
and is extremely obvious.  If you have one, you need to use it.
Otherwise not.

-- Jim

[MBZ] For Sale: 1986 300SDL

[Rhonald Angelo]

My buddy Russell in College Park, MD wants to sell his auto.


1986 300 SDL  -  Graphite Grey with Dove Grey Interior   -  232,000 miles  
Garaged


A few dings on the body, otherwise good.
Needs:
 Center mufler
 15,000 mile service

I will be looking at it this weekend  for anything else, and taking photos.  
Still rides nicely on the turnpike.


Some recent service records available, $3,500


Photos available after Sunday ... email me offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thanks
Rhonald
1985 300D
288,000 miles
Washington, DC

Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

[OK Don]

You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.

> I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of
> water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty
> multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.
>
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am

OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[Marshall Booth]

John Berryman wrote:


	It would be cost effective to save the fluid and change the filter.  
One of the reasons for using M1 ATF (or Amsoil in my case) is to  
reduce friction/wear. So theoretically there should be considerably  
less particles in the fluid. They both make claims of extended drain  
intervals. Once again, analysis of the fluid will tell all and should  
govern when fluid should be changed.

I plan on running our 190D to 45,000 miles and send in a sample.


I'll be eager to see how things work for you. I had found that shift 
quality started to deteriorate at 20-25kmi using conventional ATF and at 
about 30-35kmi using Mobil 1.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

[l02turner]

My new  hood/heat pad arrived today and I spent most of 2 hours trying to 
get the remains of the old pad off so I can glue the new one into place.


While much of the foam is gone now, there's still some adhesive left, as 
well as some very short, hard foam.


Is there something that'll take the remainder off?  I've tried an Adhesive 
Remover we sell (worked pretty well but there;s residue), Acetone (did very 
little) and blasted with high prrssure water to get rid of the bits and 
pieces (worked) - I used a large weave scotch brite like pad with a handle 
attached -


But there;s still some hard stuff (that I may leave) - and some foam which I 
believe needs to come off.


Any suggestions?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[R A Bennell]

Wasn't there a thread on this not long ago. My recollection then, and please 
correct me if I am wrong, is that only
engines before a certain date needed oil actually added to the injection pump. 
I thought I had determined that my
1976 115 300D was new enough to lube the injection pump via the engine oil and 
did not need to look for  a plug to
pour oil into the pump itself. If that is not true, please correct me as I will 
do it and hope my predecessors had
enough sense to do so as well.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 5:03 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals?
O-rings?


Christopher McCann wrote:
> Actually, the AKP-Wagen was sold. What I am getting at, as you  intuited, is 
> biodiesel use, but in the 300SD and
300TD, not the sold  W115 240D. I'm assuming, then, that pumps on a 617 and 603 
are  mechanically governed and not
vacuum goverened? I do understand the  difference in how they are lubed.
>   Sorry for another stupid question...

ALL of the Bosch inline pumps are expected to be lubricated with engine
oil! Apparently SOME owners didn't know this (there is of course the
suggestion that the maintenance booklet be read). I guess there are
people that don't think you need to add or change engine oil too!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[John Berryman]

On Apr 7, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


You must NOT push the change interval when using Mobil 1 ATF. You need
to change the fluid/filter at about the same interval as part of the
purpose of the ATF/filter change is to remove the friction material
debris (that will clog the filter). Even conventional ATF is seldom
"worn out" when a change is required although it may be damaged or
contaminated.

The advantage of M-1 ATF is the much smoother shifting (and resulting
longer friction material life) and more viscosity consistency with
respect to temperature.

Marshall


	It would be cost effective to save the fluid and change the filter.  
One of the reasons for using M1 ATF (or Amsoil in my case) is to  
reduce friction/wear. So theoretically there should be considerably  
less particles in the fluid. They both make claims of extended drain  
intervals. Once again, analysis of the fluid will tell all and should  
govern when fluid should be changed.

I plan on running our 190D to 45,000 miles and send in a sample.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

[Peter T . Arnold]

Need this work done on my 300SDL.  Did you use Indy or Dealership? MAy
I pry and ask the cost, I understand the "Angles" are about $425 for
the set.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI Sunroof FUBAR
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!On Fri, 7 Apr 2006 15:51:50 -0400, you wrote:

>
>Hi,
>
>Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
>had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
>closed and at "highway" speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
>air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
>goes away.
>
>Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
>looking?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
>Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
>2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533
>
>
>
>___
>http://www.striplin.net
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[l02turner]

what's that you say  --  WHAT   I SAID, WHAT'S THAT YOU SAY, SONNY?

Damn kids, always playing around ...
;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge



Maybe some dripped down into your ears when you were under there doing
the fluid drain?  That could make things quieter!

--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) - "<< It was definitely more quiet 
after>>>


Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this 
week

(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!

While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, 
the

change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my
imagination/wishful thinking?




I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more
smoothly - especially in cold weather.

Marshall



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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

Actually, the AKP-Wagen was sold. What I am getting at, as you  intuited, is 
biodiesel use, but in the 300SD and 300TD, not the sold  W115 240D. I'm 
assuming, then, that pumps on a 617 and 603 are  mechanically governed and not 
vacuum goverened? I do understand the  difference in how they are lubed.
  Sorry for another stupid question...


ALL of the Bosch inline pumps are expected to be lubricated with engine 
oil! Apparently SOME owners didn't know this (there is of course the 
suggestion that the maintenance booklet be read). I guess there are 
people that don't think you need to add or change engine oil too!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Christopher McCann]

Actually, the AKP-Wagen was sold. What I am getting at, as you  intuited, is 
biodiesel use, but in the 300SD and 300TD, not the sold  W115 240D. I'm 
assuming, then, that pumps on a 617 and 603 are  mechanically governed and not 
vacuum goverened? I do understand the  difference in how they are lubed.
  Sorry for another stupid question...
  
  CM
  
  

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Yes, it is supposed to be topped up 
with motor oil, but if you drain it at 
the top up intervals, you will find the lube is mostly fuel.  Most of them 
never saw oil after they left the factory, or at least after the OE sold 
them.  They are capable of running  tens or hundreds of thousands of miles 
without addition of motor oil, because the fuel displaces the oil and they 
are fuel lubed then.  We are splitting hairs here.  Theory, vs. real world. 
Technically it is oil lubed, but in practice, there is a lot of fuel in 
there.  It is designed so that if the oil gets low, the chamber is filled 
with fuel.

When ever I serviced the vacuum governed pump. i drained all the stuff in 
the IP case, then filled motor oil.

Yes, if the jobs are followed religiously, and when they were new, maybe 
most of the lube is oil, but fuel does get in there, and if it is a type 
that eats seals, you could loose the main seal of a 30 yr old pump, and 
then very likely ruin the pump.  now that they are all 30-40 years old, 
they are worn, and more fuel mixes with the oil.

I am only wanting to put out a word of warning about putting snake oil in 
the tank.  Do it as you wish guys, but be aware if you have a vacuum 
governed pump, don't be shocked if you have IP problems.  Chris, since your 
AKP-Wagon is in sacrificial status, have a blast with anything that will go 
into the tank.

In practice, the seal may NEVER fail, with any kind of homebrew.  There is 
also a diaphragm in the vacuum governor that could be affected by 
non-standard fuels.  IN theory, yes, fuel never touches the diaphragm.  But 
every one I have been into has petroleum products of some form in the 
diaphragm chamber.

ALL Bosch inline pumps have o-rings on the delivery valve body, even if it 
is on a Case tractor.

Have fun experimenting, but don't be shocked if your pump fails.  The 
mechanically governed pumps are less likely to have a fuel -induced 
problem, because of the active motor oil lube system

At 03:00 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

>On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:
>
> > My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.
> >
> > Loren
>
> Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically
>needs to be filled with motor oil?
>
>Johnny B.
>I Mac Therefore I am
>
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Re: [MBZ] Hose identification and source needed! Boost Pressure Control Valve "Hose"?

[Jeff Zedic]

I come up with two possibilities;

One is 117 997 09 82 hose to vacuum control valve order by the meter

Second is 000 158 99 35 from turbochargedr to pressure convertor also 
order by the meter


I also only see this on the Garrett turbo and suggest you check their 
local distributor. It looks to just clamp on and be a simple rubber 
pressure/vacuum hose.


HTH,

Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD

[MBZ] Hose identification and source needed! Boost Pressure Control Valve "Hose"?

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

I found a cracked/broken/split hose on my 1990 350SDL I'm tiring to get a
replacement for.  It runs from the front of the turbo assy to what looks
like an air solenoid sitting directly below the EGR valve, in an L shape, 3
X 1 inches. ID about 1/4 inch.   If I look at procedure 09-150, "Removal
and Installation of turbocharger", the dwg by step #6 shows the air
solenoid right below the EGR valve. It's also shown plainly on the 1'st
page of 09-050, Function of turbocharger, connected to the Boost Pressure
control valve.  My dealer, the web and Rusty have not been able to identify
it; just say I should just use a piece of generic "hose".

Anyone got any ideas of what it's properly called, or a P/N so I can order
one, or should I just grab the pieces and head for McParts?

Thanks,

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

I used "eat" as a figurative term.  Age, oxidation, and exposure to 
deleterious compounds are the main causes of o-ring and seal failure 
(breakdown of polymer chains).  Technically, these parts don't "fail"  they 
simply suffer from breakdown of the polymer chains.   This leads to the 
part to fail to function as designed, but the part does not fail.  Again, 
we are splitting hairs, between theory, science, and what happens in spite 
of theory and science.


At 03:47 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Fuel doesn't "EAT" most seals. Older (those used at least thru the mid
'80s) seals swell when fuel with sulfur is used and when that fuel is
replaced with fuel that doesn't have sulfur in it, the seals shrink back
toward their original size. BUT, if they are 10+ years old, they are
likely to crack/leak. Blame whatever you'd like, but it's the age and
condition of the seals, NOT the low sulfur fuel that's the problem. Most
injection pump delivery valve "O" rings don't fail, but SOME will (only
one of the 7 OM60x injection pumps I've owned have leaked - even fewer
OM61x pumps seem to leak). I think it depends on how much contact the
"O" ring seals have with the fuel - some really have minimal or NO
contact as the metal/metal surfaces form a complete seal so the "O" ring
never has any contact with the sulfur in the fuel. In other cases, the
"O" rings are bathed in fuel and when the sulfur is removed, they shrink
and leak. The "O" rings that have been available for more than a decade
don't seem to have this problem.

There were similar problems that occurred when engines run on older
conventional oil blends were changed to synthetic oil. Mobil solved the
problem by adding some group V oil that compensated for the removal of
the seal swelling properties of the older conventional oil. That's why
changing to Mobil 1 oil USUALLY results in slight to modest oil seal
leaks being slowed or cured.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:


My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix 
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.


All of the OM61x and 60x pumps result in some fuel and oil mixing within 
the injection pump, but the amount of fuel diluting the oil is quite 
modest. If, when you do your oil analysis, you find any significant 
amount of fuel in the engine oil, then the injection pump probably needs 
to be rebuilt. This is rarely the case in less than 400-500kmi.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

Yes, it is supposed to be topped up with motor oil, but if you drain it at 
the top up intervals, you will find the lube is mostly fuel.  Most of them 
never saw oil after they left the factory, or at least after the OE sold 
them.  They are capable of running  tens or hundreds of thousands of miles 
without addition of motor oil, because the fuel displaces the oil and they 
are fuel lubed then.  We are splitting hairs here.  Theory, vs. real world. 
Technically it is oil lubed, but in practice, there is a lot of fuel in 
there.  It is designed so that if the oil gets low, the chamber is filled 
with fuel.


When ever I serviced the vacuum governed pump. i drained all the stuff in 
the IP case, then filled motor oil.


Yes, if the jobs are followed religiously, and when they were new, maybe 
most of the lube is oil, but fuel does get in there, and if it is a type 
that eats seals, you could loose the main seal of a 30 yr old pump, and 
then very likely ruin the pump.  now that they are all 30-40 years old, 
they are worn, and more fuel mixes with the oil.


I am only wanting to put out a word of warning about putting snake oil in 
the tank.  Do it as you wish guys, but be aware if you have a vacuum 
governed pump, don't be shocked if you have IP problems.  Chris, since your 
AKP-Wagon is in sacrificial status, have a blast with anything that will go 
into the tank.


In practice, the seal may NEVER fail, with any kind of homebrew.  There is 
also a diaphragm in the vacuum governor that could be affected by 
non-standard fuels.  IN theory, yes, fuel never touches the diaphragm.  But 
every one I have been into has petroleum products of some form in the 
diaphragm chamber.


ALL Bosch inline pumps have o-rings on the delivery valve body, even if it 
is on a Case tractor.


Have fun experimenting, but don't be shocked if your pump fails.  The 
mechanically governed pumps are less likely to have a fuel -induced 
problem, because of the active motor oil lube system


At 03:00 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:


On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

> My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.
>
> Loren

Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically
needs to be filled with motor oil?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[Marshall Booth]

Tom Scordato wrote:

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my

imagination/wishful thinking?



Imagination but who cares.  Now you can go much longer between ATF changes! 


You must NOT push the change interval when using Mobil 1 ATF. You need 
to change the fluid/filter at about the same interval as part of the 
purpose of the ATF/filter change is to remove the friction material 
debris (that will clog the filter). Even conventional ATF is seldom 
"worn out" when a change is required although it may be damaged or 
contaminated.


The advantage of M-1 ATF is the much smoother shifting (and resulting 
longer friction material life) and more viscosity consistency with 
respect to temperature.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Jim Cathey]

My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO 
mix

fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.


As do the newer ones, but the volume of oil to dilute is larger.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

[Jim Cathey]

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?


Sounds like it's either not adjusted properly, or one of the new
seals isn't sealing right.  You can try the 'dollar bill' test:
close it on a dollar bill and see how tightly it's gripped.  On
all sides.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

[Marshall Booth]

ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:

Hi,

Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
closed and at "highway" speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
goes away.

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?


The roof won't whistle when properly aligned. It's a matter of precise 
positioning.


http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Chassis/77-110.pdf

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Marshall Booth]

Fuel doesn't "EAT" most seals. Older (those used at least thru the mid 
'80s) seals swell when fuel with sulfur is used and when that fuel is 
replaced with fuel that doesn't have sulfur in it, the seals shrink back 
toward their original size. BUT, if they are 10+ years old, they are 
likely to crack/leak. Blame whatever you'd like, but it's the age and 
condition of the seals, NOT the low sulfur fuel that's the problem. Most 
injection pump delivery valve "O" rings don't fail, but SOME will (only 
one of the 7 OM60x injection pumps I've owned have leaked - even fewer 
OM61x pumps seem to leak). I think it depends on how much contact the 
"O" ring seals have with the fuel - some really have minimal or NO 
contact as the metal/metal surfaces form a complete seal so the "O" ring 
never has any contact with the sulfur in the fuel. In other cases, the 
"O" rings are bathed in fuel and when the sulfur is removed, they shrink 
and leak. The "O" rings that have been available for more than a decade 
don't seem to have this problem.


There were similar problems that occurred when engines run on older 
conventional oil blends were changed to synthetic oil. Mobil solved the 
problem by adding some group V oil that compensated for the removal of 
the seal swelling properties of the older conventional oil. That's why 
changing to Mobil 1 oil USUALLY results in slight to modest oil seal 
leaks being slowed or cured.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

Delivery valve o-rings

At 03:05 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
and in the newer pumps (617 & 603 engines), lubed by engine oil  only - is 
there rubber to be eaten by fuels like  biodiesel?


  Chris

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  " fill the pump with
>engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
>into the oil reservoir."

My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.

At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
>Loren Faeth wrote:
> > Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least 
some 615

> > engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel
> lubricated
> > pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s
> somewhere.
> >
> > My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.
>
>All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
>oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
>to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
>engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.
>
>One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
>the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
>engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
>into the oil reservoir.
>
>Marshall
>--
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
>190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>
>___
>http://www.striplin.net
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! 
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Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[Tom Scordato]

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my

imagination/wishful thinking?



Imagination but who cares.  Now you can go much longer between ATF changes! 
/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge



Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) - "<< It was definitely more quiet after>>>

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!

While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my
imagination/wishful thinking?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge




In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle
linkage
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be
done
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to
burn
through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back 
to
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me 
about

45
minutes, mostly at idle.

Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will
ensue.

I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and
after
the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Christopher McCann]

and in the newer pumps (617 & 603 engines), lubed by engine oil  only - is 
there rubber to be eaten by fuels like  biodiesel?
  
  Chris 

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  " fill the pump with
>engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
>into the oil reservoir."

My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix 
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.

At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
>Loren Faeth wrote:
> > Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615
> > engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
> lubricated
> > pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
> somewhere.
> >
> > My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.
>
>All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
>oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
>to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
>engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.
>
>One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
>the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
>engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
>into the oil reservoir.
>
>Marshall
>--
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
>190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge
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Takes about an hour to run two cans.
>From getting all the stuff together and putting everything away.

it works.

Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge


>I ran it on slow idle for most of the time, but did bump it up to fast idle
> for about five minutes in the middle of the procedure.
>
> On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Indeed.
>>
>>   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
>> throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while 
>> Purging...it
>> is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more 
>> than
>> 15  minutes to bu

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[John Berryman]

On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

Loren


	Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically  
needs to be filled with motor oil?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

" fill the pump with

engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir."


My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix 
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.


At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:
> Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615
> engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
lubricated
> pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
somewhere.

>
> My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.

One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

And it is diluted by fuel  Ever drain one?  As I recall, they are made so 
that any oil that gets into the fuel is replaced by fuel.


At 02:07 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

> Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some
> 615
> engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel
> lubricated
> pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s
> somewhere.

Are you sure about that?  Ones with the red OEL cap are still engine
oil lubricated, but you have to pour the engine oil into them!  They
don't get it automatically from the engine.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[Christopher McCann]

That's a diesel colonic, not a diesel purge!
  
  Chris

Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth  wrote:
>
> Christopher McCann wrote:
> > Indeed.
> >
> >   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
> throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
> is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
> 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
>
> It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
> of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
> speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.
>
> Marshall


Why not mount a bottle or jar under the hood (duct tape to the rescue!) as a
temporary fuel tank and then drive around until it's gone?  I would think
the beneficial effects of Purging would only be enhanced by a simultanous
Italian tuneup.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.
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Hi,

Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
closed and at "highway" speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
goes away.

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?

Thanks!

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Dimitri Seretakis]

w115 rusty trunk repair the right way is a nightmare.  I'm still working on my 
trunk repair now for 3-4 months.  Only several hours per week and being a 
perfectionist.  I left some posts on my progress several months ago.  Well 
anyway I purchased the trunck floor new for $180 plus $70 for shipping from 
K&K.  Drilling out the hundredes of spot welds is no fun.  Fuel tank willa lso 
have to come off.  Left side of trunk floor doesn't appear to be available so I 
am fabricating this.   Need a bead roller.  Waiting for custom die to be made 
to duplicate bead exactly.
  Dimitri
  73 220D

Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they have a 
variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob the paint on if 
the holes are really tiny and the structure of the metal is not compromised or 
use it with some fiberglass matte to build up strength. They also make a putty 
version of the stuff for filling larger areas.
I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its been just 
great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I haven't mowed with 
that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the snow none of the rust has 
come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of the rust off, use the 2 treatment 
chemicals and just brushed on the paint.
Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but in a trunk 
you'd be okay.

Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop under it 
just as fast or faster than baremetal.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700
From: redghost Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk To: Mercedes list 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim.

When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check 
Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and 
trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until 
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.

Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the 
liner out and sopped up the water. Really nasty looking rust staining 
everywhere. Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the 
dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating. All the way 
down to bare painted metal or rust.

Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger 
than a dime. There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from 
starboard to port in a channel. Guess where the most rust through is. 
YEP! right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks 
seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.

First question -

What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes? I have 
already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe 
Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.

Second question -

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern 
back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel 
and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz



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Re: [MBZ] Epilog: Rough Starting 350SDL

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

Marshall,

Thanks for the troubleshooting guide.GP #3 is bad and will be replaced
this week.  It looks like a bear to get at, but nothing like a challange!

thanks,

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:
> Well,
>
> Got my 1990 350SDL w/250K back after about 3 weeks of sunroof and paint
> repairs and it "developed" a problem...Turn key on, NO GP light.  Give it
> a few seconds ...Turn key to "Start" ..Car starts, then the GP light goes
> on for about 10 seconds or so and goes off.  Car runs rough for about the
> 1'st minute, then runs normally.   Sounds like a bad GP, but replaced all
6
> about a year ago when 1 died, but the operation of the GP light was
> different.
>
> What's up?  Bad GP's?  GP relay?  Good thing the nights here are getting
> warmer..

Almost surely one or more glow plugs are bad. Measure the glow plug
resistance at the BIG plug that goes to the relay. Should be 0.6 ohms
cold and no more than twice that hot.

If the engine temp sensor (B11/8 I think) goes bad, there may be no
afterglow, but the dash lamp would glow normally.

I've attached the trouble shooting guide from the engine manual (will be
stripped from the list copy).

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi






(See attached file: 15-711a.pdf)
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Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Luther Gulseth]

I don't know if it makes that much difference, but J.B. doesn't heat the spring 
like a MIG will.

~
~This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
~JB about the welding.  I would never expect the repair to hold if the
~spring was merely welded back together.  The key is the splint.
~
~But we'll see how long it holds up.  The SDL gets driven a lot and
~we're planning to keep it indefinitely.  I can feel the repair from
~below, so I can keep tabs on it.
~
~-- Jim
~
~



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[Rich Thomas]

Maybe some dripped down into your ears when you were under there doing 
the fluid drain?  That could make things quieter!


--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 


Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) - "<< It was definitely more quiet after>>>

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?
   



I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any 
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by 
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more 
smoothly - especially in cold weather.


Marshall
 

Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

[Rich Thomas]

I'll have him check that out, see if it is buggered up at all.  Does 
this tranny have the B2 (or B4?) valve that breaks?  Does it have vac 
assist?  I'm trying to narrow things down from "the transmission is broken."


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


R,

Don't overlook a failing kick down switch, probably under the throttle  
pedal.  If sticking closed it will elevate shift points and nearly lock out  top 
gear.  


Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles


 

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Marshall Booth]

Loren Faeth wrote:
Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615 
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel lubricated 
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s somewhere.


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.


All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine 
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected 
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but 
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.


One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on 
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with 
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated 
into the oil reservoir.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Jim Cathey]

I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel 
wire wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the 
break and J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a 
missing bolt


This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
JB about the welding.  I would never expect the repair to hold if the
spring was merely welded back together.  The key is the splint.

But we'll see how long it holds up.  The SDL gets driven a lot and
we're planning to keep it indefinitely.  I can feel the repair from
below, so I can keep tabs on it.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Jim Cathey]

Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 
615
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
lubricated
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
somewhere.


Are you sure about that?  Ones with the red OEL cap are still engine
oil lubricated, but you have to pour the engine oil into them!  They
don't get it automatically from the engine.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Loren Faeth]

Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615 
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel lubricated 
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s somewhere.


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

Loren

At 12:10 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Other than the delivery valve o-rings, I'm not aware of any rubber
seals that come into direct contact with the fuel in an inline MB
injection pump.  They use engine oil for lubricating the pump
internals.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

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Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Marshall Booth]

Luther Gulseth wrote:

I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire 
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and 
J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the 
seat.



I'll mention that in the future.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] For Sale: 1985 380SE

[Chuck Landenberger]

Hi all,

I'm posting this for a friend.. Bud, who owns MB Motors in  
Phoenix AZ


1985 380SE  -  Blue on Blue   -  190kmiles
Bad Transmission (Car was driven into shop)
Heads Removed - Engine was running
Maintenance Records for last 5-6 years at MB Motors
Excellent Body
Interior in very good condition
Optima Orange Battery
Recent AC Compressor

Photos available ... email me offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Car is now in his shop.  $750.00 OBO..  Shipping is  
responsibility of buyer.


Call Bud - 602-326-6210

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Christopher McCann wrote:
> > Indeed.
> >
> >   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
> throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
> is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
> 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
>
> It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
> of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
> speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.
>
> Marshall


Why not mount a bottle or jar under the hood (duct tape to the rescue!) as a
temporary fuel tank and then drive around until it's gone?  I would think
the beneficial effects of Purging would only be enhanced by a simultanous
Italian tuneup.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Luther Gulseth]

I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire 
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and 
J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the 
seat.

Luther

~
~I have dozens of reports of "repaired" springs. Virtually all failed, 
~most within weeks or months. A few that had the "repair" supplemented 
~with lots of foam packed around/under the spring to provide additional 
~support lasted longer or much longer.
~
~Marshall
~-- 
~ Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
~   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
~'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
~190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
~
~___
~http://www.striplin.net
~For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
~For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
~
~To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
~http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) - "<< It was definitely more quiet after>>>

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?


I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any 
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by 
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more 
smoothly - especially in cold weather.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] anyone want a 79 6.9?

[andrew strasfogel]

It's got that oogy velour interior that always smells like 12 year old
tobacco smoke...  I could b*rf just thinking about it


On 4/7/06, Dave Wakin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/148841246.html
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Marshall Booth]

Rhonald Angelo wrote:
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned 
up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some 
places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, 
to keep from making it worse?  I know about the "clean wheels" but have 
heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok 
if slotted..another said if one has a habit of "riding" the brakes while 
driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 
- 4 times a week..


Remember, the Mercedes light alloy wheels from the '70s and '80s are 
PAINTED. You mustn't use anything on them that's harsher than what you'd 
use on the painted surface of the car body. They are painted with Astral 
Silver paint (paint code 735) and covered with clear coat.


Using products meant to clean bare metal alloy wheels is FAR too harsh 
and will destroy the finish.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

[l02turner]

Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) - "<< It was definitely more quiet after>>>

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge




In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle 
linkage
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be 
done
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to 
burn

through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back to
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me about 
45

minutes, mostly at idle.

Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will
ensue.

I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and 
after

the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[LT Don]

Forgive me Rusty.

A good step by step is in the Performance Parts catalog.  I can fax it to
you if you send me your fax number off-list.

Don


On 4/7/06, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Can someone please post a link to a webpage setting forth the proper
> procedure (pref. with photo(s)) for running the purge through my W123
> 300TD
> turbodiesel?
>
> On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Christopher McCann wrote:
> > > Indeed.
> > >
> > >   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
> > throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while
> Purging...it
> > is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more
> than
> > 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
> >
> > It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
> > of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
> > speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.
> >
> > Marshall
> > --
> >  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> >   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
> > 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Marshall Booth]

Sunil Hari wrote:

When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still
had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the
wheels still looked pristine.  The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and
not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust.  Maybe
these liners are still available.


What you call "factory inner liners" are more likely aftermarket "Kleen 
Wheels" and are forbidden by Mercedes (there are TSBs on the subject) 
because they seriously compromise the brakes and their stopping power 
under prolonged use or emergency conditions.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] anyone want a 79 6.9?

[Dave Wakin]

http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/148841246.html

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[andrew strasfogel]

Can someone please post a link to a webpage setting forth the proper
procedure (pref. with photo(s)) for running the purge through my W123 300TD
turbodiesel?

On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Christopher McCann wrote:
> > Indeed.
> >
> >   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
> throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
> is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
> 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
>
> It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
> of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
> speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.
>
> Marshall
> --
>  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

[andrew strasfogel]

Smells like SHILL BIDDING was at work...

On 4/7/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It's in Mississippi - want to bet it's Katrina damaged?
>
> On 4/7/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > and no good pics or description
> >
> > redghost wrote:
> >
> > > jeeez
> > >
> > > 14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/
> > >>11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> > >>--
> > >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> > >>  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> > >>  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> > >>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> > >>http://www.striplin.net
> > >>
> > >>___
> > >>http://www.striplin.net
> > >>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>
> > >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Clay
> > > Seattle Bioburner
> > >
> > > 1972 220D - Gump
> > > 1995 E300D - Cleo
> > > 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> > > The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> >   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> > http://www.striplin.net
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Marshall Booth]

Jim Cathey wrote:

Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring.  Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet.  The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed.  While I do have extra
springs from the boneyard heated seats I laid in, installing them
would not be a quick job.  I decided that I could weld this break in
place much easier.

To get the motorized frame off you have to be able to run it back and
forth to gain access to the various screw heads.  If you pull the
plugs to the motors from the controller module you can see that two of
the five contacts are much larger than the others.  These are the
motor connections, and it was an easy matter to hook a battery to them
to move them, reversing the polarity as necessary.  The fun part is in
guessing which motor and plug is the one you need.

With the frame removed I laid down old carpeting over the stump I use
as a welding prop and the ground, so that the seat wouldn't be
scuffed, and placed the seat for easy access to the bottom.  Then I
soaked a bunch of old towels in water and laid them over everything so
that only the spring break (!)  was exposed.  That protects everything
from flying bits of molten metal.  The ground clamp was secured to one
of the noninsulated crimps that hold the (coated) springs together.
(I theorized that the coating was penetrated by the crimped metal.  In
fact it was.)  Then I wedged the two broken ends together and hit them
with the MIG.  Zap!  The ends were secured.  This, however, is an
insufficient fix as welding springs ruins their temper, I don't
believe that this kind of fix would hold long.  What I did next was
wrap the break in a bandage of mild sheet steel, a 1/4" strip that had
been cut out of another project.  I then welded the wraps together so
that it is semi-solid.  This, I hope, will hold it all together.  (I
have done similar fixes before and none have broken to my knowledge,
but none have been subjected to she-who-must-drop-from-a-height for
any length of time.)

I put the seat on the ground and sat on it, and it felt better to me.
Reinstallation promises to be just as much of a pain as removal was.
But it's time for breakfast.


I have dozens of reports of "repaired" springs. Virtually all failed, 
most within weeks or months. A few that had the "repair" supplemented 
with lots of foam packed around/under the spring to provide additional 
support lasted longer or much longer.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Curt Raymond]

Uhh yeah, that'd be true on the street... Did you miss the part about my 
flogging the 240D over speedbumps where he was scared of bottoming out?
  0-60 isn't as relevent as 0-30 in this case.
  Also my willingness to take a 90 degree turn at 30mph that completes by 
bouncing off the curb...
   
  So yeah he's not driving his to the full extent because he doesn't want to 
break stuff. On the 240D I really didn't care...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2006 09:53:40 -0400
From: Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Hate to tell you, but if you were keeping up with the STi in the 
corners, then the guy was either taking it easy, or doesn't know how to 
drive it that well.
That car weighs less than either a 240D or 300D and has more than twice 
the power of the 300D and about 4 times a 240D.  So on the straights he 
should be REALLY leaving you behind.  His 0-60mph time is what 4 
seconds?  Yours is what 20?
On the corners, I'd pretty well guarantee that his suspension is 
superior to a 240 or 300 in perfect condition, let alone I'm guessing 
most of these 20-30 year old cars aren't as good as they used to be?  
(:

If it makes you feel better, you can carry a lot more 5 gallon pails in 
your trunk than he can!

WY different thinking between those two cars.  But great 
engineering 
and reliability in both.  (:


Levi
83' 300D
97' Subaru Impreza




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Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge
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Christopher McCann wrote:
> Indeed.
>   
>   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
> from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done 
> idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to burn 
> through that bottle, no?

It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one 
of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different 
speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

[Christopher McCann]

and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?
  
  Sorry, I have no idea how these things work :-(
  
  THANKS!
  
  CM
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?
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X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2006 17:10:20 -

Other than the delivery valve o-rings, I'm not aware of any rubber
seals that come into direct contact with the fuel in an inline MB
injection pump.  They use engine oil for lubricating the pump
internals.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[LT Don]

I ran it on slow idle for most of the time, but did bump it up to fast idle
for about five minutes in the middle of the procedure.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Indeed.
>
>   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
> throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
> is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
> 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
>
>   Chris
>
>


--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

[Jim Cathey]

My buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I
think is) the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.


Don't forget to check the kickdown switch.  Easy to get crapped up.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Jim Cathey]

Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring.  Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet.  The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed.  While I do have extra
springs from the boneyard heated seats I laid in, installing them
would not be a quick job.  I decided that I could weld this break in
place much easier.

To get the motorized frame off you have to be able to run it back and
forth to gain access to the various screw heads.  If you pull the
plugs to the motors from the controller module you can see that two of
the five contacts are much larger than the others.  These are the
motor connections, and it was an easy matter to hook a battery to them
to move them, reversing the polarity as necessary.  The fun part is in
guessing which motor and plug is the one you need.

With the frame removed I laid down old carpeting over the stump I use
as a welding prop and the ground, so that the seat wouldn't be
scuffed, and placed the seat for easy access to the bottom.  Then I
soaked a bunch of old towels in water and laid them over everything so
that only the spring break (!)  was exposed.  That protects everything
from flying bits of molten metal.  The ground clamp was secured to one
of the noninsulated crimps that hold the (coated) springs together.
(I theorized that the coating was penetrated by the crimped metal.  In
fact it was.)  Then I wedged the two broken ends together and hit them
with the MIG.  Zap!  The ends were secured.  This, however, is an
insufficient fix as welding springs ruins their temper, I don't
believe that this kind of fix would hold long.  What I did next was
wrap the break in a bandage of mild sheet steel, a 1/4" strip that had
been cut out of another project.  I then welded the wraps together so
that it is semi-solid.  This, I hope, will hold it all together.  (I
have done similar fixes before and none have broken to my knowledge,
but none have been subjected to she-who-must-drop-from-a-height for
any length of time.)

I put the seat on the ground and sat on it, and it felt better to me.
Reinstallation promises to be just as much of a pain as removal was.
But it's time for breakfast.

-- Jim

[MBZ] Columbus CL 1987 300D

[Sunil Hari]

No affiliation, etc.

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/149033663.html

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 4/7/2006 7:12:14 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I 
think is)  the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right  
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.  I have not yet driven  the 
car to see what it is doing, but suggested first thing is a new  
filter/M1 fluid change.  See what that does, about due for it  anyway.

? is -- Is this tranny like the 79 TD's, vac shifted?   Maybe a bad 
connection?  Modulator, etc. that goes bad?  These  could be easy fixes I 
guess, would not indicate something more dire.   (OK that is maybe 3 ?s 
but they are all kinda the  same)

Thoughts?



R,
 
Don't overlook a failing kick down switch, probably under the throttle  
pedal.  If sticking closed it will elevate shift points and nearly lock out  
top 
gear.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done  
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to  burn 
through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back to  
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me about  45 
minutes, mostly at idle. 
 
Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will 
ensue. 
 
I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and  after 
the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

[Sunil Hari]

It's in Mississippi - want to bet it's Katrina damaged?

On 4/7/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> and no good pics or description
>
> redghost wrote:
>
> > jeeez
> >
> > 14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k
> >
> >
> > On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> >
> >
> >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/
> >>11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >>--
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >>  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> >>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>
> >>___
> >>http://www.striplin.net
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Clay
> > Seattle Bioburner
> >
> > 1972 220D - Gump
> > 1995 E300D - Cleo
> > 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> > The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

and no good pics or description

redghost wrote:


jeeez

14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ 
11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

[Rich Thomas]

My buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I 
think is) the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right 
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.  I have not yet driven the 
car to see what it is doing, but suggested first thing is a new 
filter/M1 fluid change.  See what that does, about due for it anyway.


? is -- Is this tranny like the 79 TD's, vac shifted?  Maybe a bad 
connection?  Modulator, etc. that goes bad?  These could be easy fixes I 
guess, would not indicate something more dire.  (OK that is maybe 3 ?s 
but they are all kinda the same)


Thoughts?

--R

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Levi Smith]

Hate to tell you, but if you were keeping up with the STi in the 
corners, then the guy was either taking it easy, or doesn't know how to 
drive it that well.
That car weighs less than either a 240D or 300D and has more than twice 
the power of the 300D and about 4 times a 240D.  So on the straights he 
should be REALLY leaving you behind.  His 0-60mph time is what 4 
seconds?  Yours is what 20?
On the corners, I'd pretty well guarantee that his suspension is 
superior to a 240 or 300 in perfect condition, let alone I'm guessing 
most of these 20-30 year old cars aren't as good as they used to be?  (:


If it makes you feel better, you can carry a lot more 5 gallon pails in 
your trunk than he can!


WY different thinking between those two cars.  But great engineering 
and reliability in both.  (:



Levi
83' 300D
97' Subaru Impreza



Curt Raymond wrote:

The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy with a 
Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace him. While I of 
course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could hit speedbumps at least 
twice as fast as he did and my willingness to throw my 240D into 90degree turns 
at speed made me quite competitive.
  Yeah it was alot like on Cops, I'd floor the go pedal and drag the wheel 
around. Get the car going sideways, take my foot off the throttle just a little 
and the rears would catch, back on throttle and I'm off. I imagine with a 300D 
I could probably have done really well. The 190D does well but I'm reluctant to 
throw it around as much.
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 01:16:18 -0500

From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must 
emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a 
la

Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end 
bouncing off

the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D




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Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Jim Cathey]

The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy 
with a Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace 
him. While I of course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could 
hit speedbumps at least twice as fast as he did and my willingness to 
throw my 240D into 90degree turns at speed made me quite competitive.


As in so many things, it's not so much what you've got but what
you do with it...

My brother raced dirt bikes at one time.  Can you guess what happened
one time we all (siblings & cousins) went to the go-kart racetrack?
He won every time.  Handily.  Didn't seem to matter which pig he got
stuck with.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Curt Raymond]

The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy with a 
Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace him. While I of 
course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could hit speedbumps at least 
twice as fast as he did and my willingness to throw my 240D into 90degree turns 
at speed made me quite competitive.
  Yeah it was alot like on Cops, I'd floor the go pedal and drag the wheel 
around. Get the car going sideways, take my foot off the throttle just a little 
and the rears would catch, back on throttle and I'm off. I imagine with a 300D 
I could probably have done really well. The 190D does well but I'm reluctant to 
throw it around as much.
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 01:16:18 -0500
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must 
emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a 
la
Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end 
bouncing off
the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D




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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat broke
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> You've got a flopper too? I fight back the urge to tell the wife to be 
> less
> gibbon-like with most of the controls in the car (especially to avoid
> cranking around the temperature dials every time she feels hot or cold 
> - I'd
> rather she utilize the fresh air lever, or shut down or open up her 
> vents
> rather than twirling those dials that I think are going to croak 
> anytime). I
> have yet to bring up her collapsing into the seat like she's scuba 
> diving
> off a boat. I'm just making progress on the door slamming.

[Furtively looking around, coast is clear...]

Yes.

The SDL has an ACC system which mostly she doesn't fiddle with.
But I often get in to find it on Bi-level, or Off.  It's a mystery.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

[Christopher McCann]

Indeed.
  
  And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done 
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to burn 
through that bottle, no?
  
  Chris

LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Did my Spring DieselPurge treatment this 
evening on the 240D. Even though
I've done this task several times before, I am always amazed at how quickly
things quiet down while the Purge is running thru the injectors. Mine must
not have been too bad from winter driving, because it took only 5 minutes to
go from clatta-clatta-clank to the sound of a sewing machine!

If any of you folks have NOT done this to your diesel, please call Rusty and
order a can or two. It is amazing stuff.

D.


--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: [MBZ] Fwd: [Biodiesel] methanol, viton hoses and IP
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I never got a really good anser to all these questions on the BIoD list, so I'm 
posint here.
  
  Thanks,
  
  CM
  
  Particularly interested in if there are any rubber components inside an  IP 
and if so, what they do...do they come in contact with fuel?
  
  CM

Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:28:14 
-0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Biodiesel] methanol, viton hoses and IP

  What is it about BioD that eats through old fuel hoses? Is it trace amounts 
of methanol left behind?
  
  If yes, then will the methanol also eat rubber components in the  IP...or are 
there rubber components in the IP (injection pump)...I  suspect o-rings, but I 
really don't know.
  
 If it's not trace  methanol, just the BioD itself, will THAT potentially harm 
a twenty  year old IP and any rubber components that may or may not be there?
  
  Thanks!
  
  Chris
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
  
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Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[lee]

You can use 100% ethanol if you put larger main jets in your carburator. Don't 
know how you would accomodate with a fuel injection system. 

As for the "more than a gallon of gas to produce a gallon of ethanol" 
statement, the same has been said about biodiesel, but only AFAIK by one 
researcher who seems fixated on discrediting alternative fuels.  I haven't 
seen any other studies to back his contention up. 

The other issue with ethanol is how you produce it. Fermenting corn is only 
one way of producing ethanol. It is also possible to begin with cellulose, 
digest it by chemical or even fungal or bacterial means, and then ferment it 
into ethanol.  So you could produce ethanol from grass, or from the corn 
stalks rather than the ears, or from sawdust, etc. 

Lee

On Thursday 06 April 2006 6:56, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've seen comercials on TV pushing ethenol - suggesting if everyone used it
> there would not be a fuel shortage,
>
> Is that accurate?  Isn't 15% the max % of ethenol that can be used on autos
> realistically?
>
> Didn't I read on this list someone say Ethenol is a negative return?  i.e.,
> it takes more than a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of ethenol?
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron
>
> > Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced today,
> > in
> > the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of
> > several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.
> >
> > We do need some new oil refineries.
> >
> > At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:
> >>You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on
> >>line - 1978 IIRC
> >>
> >>I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and
> >> some nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide
> >> our oil
> >>for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to
> >>build
> >>something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned
> >>by
> >>a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1
> >>million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up.
> >>Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open
> >>arms.
> >>
> >>A refinery doesn't have a chance --
> >>
> >>Sincerely,
> >>Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> >>A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> >>For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> >>Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> >>http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> >>- Original Message -
> >>From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
> >>Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron
> >>
> >> > David Brodbeck wrote:
> >> >> Christopher McCann wrote:
> >> >>> "ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
> >> >>> #1 diesel and than MOST #2."
> >> >>>
> >> >>>   Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...
> >> >
> >> > I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
> >> > fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
> >> > out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but
> >> > that can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities
> >> > that exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery
> >> > built in the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for
> >> > years. Their
> >> > facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.
> >> >
> >> > Marshall
> >> > --
> >> >   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> >> >   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> > '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
> >> > 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
> >> >
> >> > ___
> >> > http://www.striplin.net
> >> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> >
> >> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >>
> >>___
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> >>
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> >
> > ___

Re: [MBZ] [Banned] tonights project

[Luther Gulseth]

how big in diamater is the reamer itself?  I'm curious about how flat/wide I 
can make a glow plug and not damage the prechamber.

~ I HAD a glow plug bore reamer that I would have loaned you but I loaned it
~to 
~b1



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

[Zoltan Finks]

You've got a flopper too? I fight back the urge to tell the wife to be less
gibbon-like with most of the controls in the car (especially to avoid
cranking around the temperature dials every time she feels hot or cold - I'd
rather she utilize the fresh air lever, or shut down or open up her vents
rather than twirling those dials that I think are going to croak anytime). I
have yet to bring up her collapsing into the seat like she's scuba diving
off a boat. I'm just making progress on the door slamming.

Brian
83 240D
whose wife doesn't read list, obviously


On 4/6/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Sat in the driver's seat of the SDL for the first time in awhile
> today, and immediately asked my wife "How long has the seat been
> broken?"  It lists to the left now, feels like a broken spring.  "What
> do you mean?" is all I got.  "Didn't you notice it go 'poink' when you
> sat in it and it dumped you to the left?" "Huh?"
>
> Gonna have to dive into that before it pokes a hole in the seat pad.
> I sure wish she wouldn't flop down into the seat the way she does.
> Like a... no, I think I'd better not go there!
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Zoltan Finks]

Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a la
Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end bouncing off
the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D


On 4/6/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I only lost a hubcap off my 240D once and that was when a tire monkey lost
> a clip.
>
> Several times I had my 240D sliding sideways thinking "Hmm, what do I do
> now?" To say I drove that car hard would be somewhat of an understatement, I
> beat the everloving snot out of it.
> That said I always had cheap tires on it too...
> My 190D handles like its on rails by comparison although I think maybe the
> 240D rides a little nicer.
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 12:29:42 -0500
> From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
> aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
> character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it "cute").
>
> Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
> wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering? I know that
> this happens on a lot of cars, and it's why police cars would always
> have "hubcaps" (just covering the middle of the wheel), rather than
> "wheel covers" which cover the whole diameter, attaching to the outer
> lip of wheel (and thus are succeptible to popping off under wheel
> flex).
>
> I know on that old TV commercial that was posted to the list some time
> ago, that orange 300D was cornering at the limits of its capability,
> and the wheel covers stayed on. Unless I'm forgetting and it had
> bundts. Or unless they sneakily adhered them to the wheels in
> preparation for the handling demonstration.
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
>
>
> -
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>

Re: [MBZ] tonights project

[Kevin]

On Thu, Apr 06, 2006 at 09:40:51PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> I only know the people that show up on TV.  My aunt is one of the news 
> anchors for channel 6

Channel 6, the only channel that the FCC will not allow to go digital.

K

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[redghost]

But these plants are using synfuel coal.  That allows for multiple tax 
breaks, such that the gummint covers 90% of the cost to produce


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:34 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Didn't I read on this list someone say Ethenol is a negative return?  
i.e.,
it takes more than a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of 
ethenol?




I don't know if it's actually a negative return, but it's not really a
"green" fuel because of how it's produced.  Many of the new ethanol
plants being built are fired by coal:

"Late last year in Goldfield, Iowa, a refinery began pumping out a
stream of ethanol, which supporters call the clean, renewable fuel of
the future.

"There's just one twist: The plant is burning 300 tons of coal a day to
turn corn into ethanol - the first US plant of its kind to use coal
instead of cleaner natural gas.

"An hour south of Goldfield, another coal-fired ethanol plant is under
construction in Nevada, Iowa. At least three other such refineries are
being built in Montana, North Dakota, and Minnesota."

(http://www.csmonitor.com/2006/0323/p01s01-sten.html)


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Desert Rat]

Massive doses of Brake Cleaner. That's what I used when I pulled off
the Clean Discs and found an unbelieveable amount of crud on the back
of the wheels. YUK!

On 4/6/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It is the crust in the back of the wheel that I am trying to make go
> away.  What little there is on the front is pretty simple to remove
>
> On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 11:18 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:
>
> > archer wrote:
> >> A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake
> >> dust and
> >> not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying
> >> them
> >> with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.
> >>
> >
> > In that vein, I've had reasonably good results at removing light
> > accumulations by spraying the wheels with cheap parts store wheel
> > cleaner just before driving through a self-serve automatic car wash.
> >
> >
> > David Brodbeck
> > '83 300D Turbo
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"

Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

[redghost]

jeeez

14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ 
11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[redghost]

What of all the shuttered refineries.  They are just dormant superfund 
sites.  I am sure that somebody will get the bright idea to fire them 
back up.


Oh, wait, that would mean cutting into the profits, and might flood the 
market with fuel, thereby lowering profits per barrel


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 04:49 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced 
today, in

the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of
several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.

We do need some new oil refineries.

At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:
You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came 
on

line - 1978 IIRC

I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and 
some
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide 
our oil
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to 
build
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already 
owned by
a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over 
$1
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave 
up.
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with 
open

arms.

A refinery doesn't have a chance --

 David Brodbeck wrote:

Christopher McCann wrote:

"ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
#1 diesel and than MOST #2."

  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...


I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use 
with
fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they 
took
out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but 
that

can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. 
Their

facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.

Marshall



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Add to that the large R on the back window, the nice underbody lights 
and spinners, with the overpowered bass boomer and in dash DVD player.  
Also note that any fuel, no matter where procured will dissolve 
cylinders.


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 03:24 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


lee wrote:
Putting XP on your Mac is like putting cheap mags and a spoiler on 
your Benz.




Well, yes and no.  It's more like having a gasoline Benz instead of a
diesel one.  It's not as efficient and there's more maintenace 
required,

but you have a lot more options when you need to buy fuel.


David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[redghost]

It is the crust in the back of the wheel that I am trying to make go 
away.  What little there is on the front is pretty simple to remove


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 11:18 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:


archer wrote:
A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake 
dust and
not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying 
them

with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.



In that vein, I've had reasonably good results at removing light
accumulations by spraying the wheels with cheap parts store wheel
cleaner just before driving through a self-serve automatic car wash.


David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

Thank you, sir

On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 09:02 AM, Marshall Booth wrote:


http://www.kkmfg.com/catalogs.php



Marshall


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

those are going to cost too much.  For some reason they are going for
$25+.  Must be fear of nuclear proliferation.  Sheet product from the
metal guys will be around that.


Broken microwaves at St Vinnie's were $1 or $2 last I bought one, FYI.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[Jim Cathey]

An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install
can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.


With VPC it's just dupe the master already-installed template file
and you're done.  Moments, indeed.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

It has more to do with hours wasted trying to keep the POS running.  If 
you have done installs of windows, you can see why a mac user will be 
very perplexed by a person willing to subject themselves to that 
torture.  Sort of the head scratch I have with Mistress Jill.  WTF gets 
into a boy to want to be hung up with tuna hooks on 100# test line?


An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install 
can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 11:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

When I heard the news on the radio today, I knew lots of people would 
get

all worked up.

Mac vs. PC reminds me of the Mopar vs. Chevy war that raged in my 
circles

growing up.

As a graphic artist, I have used lots of Macs, but some years ago it 
seems
PCs became capable enough to do everything I need to do. So I don't 
feel

much loyalty either way. To me, a computer is a tool - I have never
understood the passion.

Well, actually, I may begin to understand when I think of the war in 
terms
of cars. I would throw down in defense of Mopars as a kid. I hated 
Chevys.
And Fords did not often even enter the conversation. Guess everyone 
needs

something to root for. Look at avid sports fans, heck, even young gang
members. We need something that allows us to say, "Hey, this is mine, 
this

is who I am, you got a problem with that?"

Brian
Feeling philosophical tonight

On 4/6/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:21 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

He needs to run winders for FEMA, but prefers to work efficiently 
the

rest
of the time.  I have been drooling over the macbooks for some time
now.


And why not run VPC (or equivalent) instead?  No dual-booting 
involved,

and the PC junk is never in control enough to be able to hammer the
system, only itself.  Plenty fast enough for a whole lot of uses.

-- Jim


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

those are going to cost too much.  For some reason they are going for 
$25+.  Must be fear of nuclear proliferation.  Sheet product from the 
metal guys will be around that.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 10:29 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


Don't forget to raid the Goodwill for broken microwaves!  ;)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

On 4/5/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I have no idea of cost, I am going to hit Pacific Iron and see what
they have in the way of thin sheet metal to form a pan or patch


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:19 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?


Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)

-- Jim


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Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] VPC (was: We can all just throw our Macs away)

[redghost]

How have you configured the ram available to win98?  For some reason I 
find it needs at least 128 to be happy, but if you can load the whole 
mess into ram, that would be good.  Give it 512 for more bang.  Also 
check virtual CPU usage.  If there is a virus, you will find it up 
around 95%.  Wipe and start over is the standard winblow trouble shoot


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 10:27 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


On 4/5/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram




Humph.  I wonder what's wrong with my setup.  I have VPC 5 running on 
a 1
Ghz G4 with 1.5 Gb of RAM and OS X 10.3, and Win98 is unusably slow.  
Like

you click a menu title and count the seconds until it drops down.
Seriously, it's slower than a 386DX25 I used to have to run Windows 
3.1 on.

Virus or bad Win98 install or something?  Should I wipe the virtual
partition and start over?  I have been using Macs forever and consider
myself pretty good with them, but Windows hates me and this has me 
stumped.


Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
'99 Sawtooth G4, PowerLogix accelerator, Radeon 8500
'98 Lombard G3 PowerBook
Assorted junky sacrificial PCs for specific purposes, like running 
OBDII

diagnostic software
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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] tonights project

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Im pretty well known myself, I always have people come up to me talking 
and I have no clue who they are, not sure if thats good or bad though.


Luther Gulseth wrote:

Sheesh, are all your relatives 10 times more well known than you are?

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:40:51 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:



I only know the people that show up on TV.  My aunt is one of the news
anchors for channel 6

Luther Gulseth wrote:


That's cause they work for NOAA in the main weather office in Tulsa.
They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with  
weather.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:31:11 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

wrote:



Never heard of any of them.