Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-23 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Fenders turned out sweet, Luke. I dig the flat profile, way clean!

On Sunday, January 22, 2023 at 10:57:09 PM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks much, Keith!

On Sunday, January 22, 2023 at 9:20:57 PM UTC-8 Keith P. wrote:

Great looking bike, Luke!
k.

On Jan 22, 2023, at 8:49 PM, Luke Hendrickson  wrote:



Here are some photos from the shop taken this afternoon. I’m very pleased and 
have decided to leave some extra strut just in case. 



On Friday, January 20, 2023 at 10:15:49 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

I just finished the install this evening. I needed to slightly squish the rear 
fender at the chain stay mount and do the same for the front fender with the 
fork. Clearance wasn’t compromised however it added a certain level of 
difficulty to the front fender install. I still need to finish adjusting the 
spacing/alignment in the front, and I’m quite satisfied with the rear fender. 
I’ll be sure to snap some photos in the daylight tomorrow for reference. 
On Friday, January 20, 2023 at 4:21:13 PM UTC-8 brizbarn wrote:

No problem. Looks like you’re right, they are listed as 63mm. I don’t think 
that number has changed, I just remembered it wrong. So that means my 55mm wide 
tires fit 63mm fenders. And for reference, I have Velocity Cliffhanger 700c 
rims. 
Brian 

On Jan 20, 2023, at 2:21 PM, DavidP  wrote:



Thanks for that great example and photos (and nice Appaloosa!). VO lists the 
700c fluted fenders as 63mm wide - are yours actually 65mm?


-Dave (who's thinking that fluted 63mm fenders could just squeeze into his 
Platy)
On Friday, January 20, 2023 at 3:53:26 PM UTC-5 brizbarn wrote:


I run velo orange fluted 65 on my Appaloosa with 700x55 Terravail Sparwood 
tires.  It's a tight fit, but don't think I had to mod the fenders at all, 
maybe a slight dimple.  The fenders just barely fit in the frame and fork, so 
imagine the bigger Honjo options would definitely need some modifying, but 
maybe the Atlantis has bit more clearance.  Overall I like them, and the tight 
fit has not been an issue so far.  Flat Honjos would likely give more room than 
my fluted ones.I  






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Re: [RBW] Gus owners, does your RD/shifter cable rub against kickstand bracket?

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Richard,
I don't think that's correct hole in cable guide to pass screw through. If you 
position cable guide using that hole, it moves guide (for FD cable) more 
inboard and your FD cable will likely interfere with whatever you mount on 
underside of down tube cage bosses. Eyeball the line of site from cable guide 
along underside of down tube to see what I mean.
As always, I may be incorrect...

Scott

On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 11:53:31 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Very interesting. My rear derailleur has yet to arrive but this got my 
attention! So I installed the guide to eyeball the situation. It does not look 
like it will be an issue but it certainly will not take me by surprise.:)

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 18, 2023, at 10:48 AM, 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



Gus owners,
When doing a trial run of my RD/shifter cable from the BB cable guide to chain 
stay housing stop, it contacts underside of the kickstand bracket. Not proper 
in my mind.
If you have same situation, how are you going to correct it, or just leave it? 
What say you?
Scott


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Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Patirck,
Killer! Thanks for sharing your experiences with various fenders/materials.
Scott

On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 10:54:41 AM MST, Patrick Moore 
 wrote:  
 
 I've installed about the same number of metal -- Honjo, VO, Berthoud, Kelpie, 
Wald -- but mostly VO -- and plastic fenders, SKS, Blumel, Zefal, Avocet, 
Planet Bike, etc. Metal ones properly installed are more rigid while plastic 
ones can -- but don't always -- rattle from vibration. Some metal ones are 
sturdier than plastic: stainless steel, Wald, 2X gauge aluminum Kelpie, but 
most are more prone to damage than plastic, but only very slightly so IME. 
Metal ones tend to be longer -- I've had some SKSs and PBs that were absurdly 
short and required 8" or 10" long front mudflaps for full coverage. And metal 
ones almost always IME look better: curves and gaps more even, better looking 
fender and strut materials.
On Wed, Jan 18, 2023 at 10:27 AM Jay Lonner  wrote:

I’ve been using SKS fenders since forever, so I’m very familiar with their 
installation and have lots of spare parts lying around. Are there non-aesthetic 
benefits to metal fenders? I think back to the old Raleigh 3-speed I had as a 
kid, and the fenders on that bike were prone to scratches/dings and also made a 
loud pachinko sound when riding on gravel. Have modern boutique metal fenders 
found a way around these shortcomings?


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Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Jay,
Thanks for pointing out differences in materials fenders are made of. I'm a 
fenders virgin, so it's insightful! Definitely a characteristic I'll weigh 
heavily when I purchase a set.
As a long-time user of SKS fenders, do you have any gripes with them?
Scott 

On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 10:27:34 AM MST, Jay Lonner 
 wrote:  
 
 I’ve been using SKS fenders since forever, so I’m very familiar with their 
installation and have lots of spare parts lying around. Are there non-aesthetic 
benefits to metal fenders? I think back to the old Raleigh 3-speed I had as a 
kid, and the fenders on that bike were prone to scratches/dings and also made a 
loud pachinko sound when riding on gravel. Have modern boutique metal fenders 
found a way around these shortcomings?
Jay LonnerBellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

On Jan 18, 2023, at 7:37 AM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



 Luke, after you get and fuss with them fenders, post the results, please.
Some pictures to go with would be great.

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 07:50:50 PM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott – I ordered the Flat 65 yesterday after some consideration. I hope it’ll 
arrive by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week at which time I’ll hurriedly mount 
them. I think minimal modification will be necessary though I worry about 
reduced coverage due to their shape. 

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 8:41:15 AM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

 What did you discover? Did you by chance try the Flat 65?

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 09:42:36 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Man, wonderful info about the 74s – thank you for taking the time to relay 
that. The above posted photos of them show a significant amount of modification 
(cutting) to fit which I might be game to do however what I won’t tolerate is 
losing ample clearance around the tire. I’m about to head into the shop for the 
day and will throw the Atlantis in the stand and see if any of the dimensions 
of the Flat 65s would work, etc. At the very least I’ll share the mishaps I 
encounter as I try to push the limits of what the Atlantis can fit with you 
all. 
David – I appreciate that suggestion. I’ll throw around the dimensions of those 
with the mechanics today and see if they also see that working out. I feel 
pretty dedicated to the idea of fenders on this thing and the recent rain has 
left me wanting to ride more with less of a reason not to regardless of the 
weather. I feel like having fenders is the definitive way to make a bike a year 
round possibility, whether or not it’s a downpour.
- Luke in rainy, hailing San Francisco
On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:

That's great info, though too bad the 74s won't fit out of the box.

Before giving up on 2.25s and fenders, I'd take some measurements and see if 
Flat 65s would work in the frame and fork (and chain in low/low). If so you 
should be able to get them setup with the 2.25s G-ones since they don't really 
have knobs (assuming the tires actually measure out to 2.25 or less).

I'm thinking that Smooth 62s with 50mm tires would work on my Platy so I'd 
guess the Atlantis could do incrementally more.
-Dave

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 psc...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a set of smooth 74's in my shop for another bike (not yet fitted) and 
holding them up to my Atlantis, they don't fit without cutting and  heavily 
dimpling the fenders to fit between seat stays, also fork blades, and remove 
fender material around the chain stays.  Not for the faint of heart but looks 
possible with patience and proper jigs for setting the dimples just right.  
There's little question that the fenders will fit over your tires, but on an 
Atlantis, it will take some work.  The problem I would worry about is this, by 
the time you dimple the fender enough to fit, you may have lost your clearance 
around the tire at those points.  If you remove metal at those edges where it 
is too tight then the structure of the fender is seriously compromised.  I'd go 
with a smooth 62 fender and 50mm tire on Atlantis and save the 74's w 2.25 
tires for a bike with more clearance (like a Clem).  

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 1:21:11 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Kim! Fantastic news. I had hoped the smooth would be operable as they look to 
have better coverage than the Flat 80. I appreciate the help here! Ordering 
pronto. 

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:59:09 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

Kevin Purcell is co-owner of Golden Pliers in Portland, Oregon. ...left this 
out.

Kim.

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:51:08 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:

Hi Luke,
On my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike, I am running a pair of Schwalbe Rapid Rob 
29x2.25 ". As one of my last upgrades for my bike are the SimWorks Honjo Smooth 
74 steel fenders as yet to be.   

Before I came confident in a decision about which fenders I should buy for my 
bike, I had emailed Steve Smi

Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Luke, after you get and fuss with them fenders, post the results, please.
Some pictures to go with would be great.

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 07:50:50 PM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott – I ordered the Flat 65 yesterday after some consideration. I hope it’ll 
arrive by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week at which time I’ll hurriedly mount 
them. I think minimal modification will be necessary though I worry about 
reduced coverage due to their shape. 

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 8:41:15 AM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

 What did you discover? Did you by chance try the Flat 65?

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 09:42:36 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Man, wonderful info about the 74s – thank you for taking the time to relay 
that. The above posted photos of them show a significant amount of modification 
(cutting) to fit which I might be game to do however what I won’t tolerate is 
losing ample clearance around the tire. I’m about to head into the shop for the 
day and will throw the Atlantis in the stand and see if any of the dimensions 
of the Flat 65s would work, etc. At the very least I’ll share the mishaps I 
encounter as I try to push the limits of what the Atlantis can fit with you 
all. 
David – I appreciate that suggestion. I’ll throw around the dimensions of those 
with the mechanics today and see if they also see that working out. I feel 
pretty dedicated to the idea of fenders on this thing and the recent rain has 
left me wanting to ride more with less of a reason not to regardless of the 
weather. I feel like having fenders is the definitive way to make a bike a year 
round possibility, whether or not it’s a downpour.
- Luke in rainy, hailing San Francisco
On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:

That's great info, though too bad the 74s won't fit out of the box.

Before giving up on 2.25s and fenders, I'd take some measurements and see if 
Flat 65s would work in the frame and fork (and chain in low/low). If so you 
should be able to get them setup with the 2.25s G-ones since they don't really 
have knobs (assuming the tires actually measure out to 2.25 or less).

I'm thinking that Smooth 62s with 50mm tires would work on my Platy so I'd 
guess the Atlantis could do incrementally more.
-Dave

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 psc...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a set of smooth 74's in my shop for another bike (not yet fitted) and 
holding them up to my Atlantis, they don't fit without cutting and  heavily 
dimpling the fenders to fit between seat stays, also fork blades, and remove 
fender material around the chain stays.  Not for the faint of heart but looks 
possible with patience and proper jigs for setting the dimples just right.  
There's little question that the fenders will fit over your tires, but on an 
Atlantis, it will take some work.  The problem I would worry about is this, by 
the time you dimple the fender enough to fit, you may have lost your clearance 
around the tire at those points.  If you remove metal at those edges where it 
is too tight then the structure of the fender is seriously compromised.  I'd go 
with a smooth 62 fender and 50mm tire on Atlantis and save the 74's w 2.25 
tires for a bike with more clearance (like a Clem).  

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 1:21:11 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Kim! Fantastic news. I had hoped the smooth would be operable as they look to 
have better coverage than the Flat 80. I appreciate the help here! Ordering 
pronto. 

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:59:09 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

Kevin Purcell is co-owner of Golden Pliers in Portland, Oregon. ...left this 
out.

Kim.

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:51:08 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:

Hi Luke,
On my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike, I am running a pair of Schwalbe Rapid Rob 
29x2.25 ". As one of my last upgrades for my bike are the SimWorks Honjo Smooth 
74 steel fenders as yet to be.   

Before I came confident in a decision about which fenders I should buy for my 
bike, I had emailed Steve Smith, the General Manager at SimWorks in Portland, 
Oregon. He said that the Smooth 74s' would work. Steve referred me to Kevin, 
who owns an orange Rivendell Clementine bike. Kevin's bike has the Honjo Smooth 
74 fenders. He had to modify the rear fender; cutting out a section for 
clearance for the chain above the chain stay. See attached pictures. I did not 
ask at the time what size tires Kevin is running on his bike. I was more 
concerned about what shim size I needed for a 27.2mm seat post for my Clem. 

All in all, I can say that the Honjo Smooth 74 fenders with accommodate 
29x2.25" or 57.15mm tires. In the description of the those fenders on the 
SimWorks website, the maximum tire size is 58~mm. 

Hope this helps and not to confuse you.
Kim HetzelYelm, WA 

..changing out my chain and rear derailleur to new.


On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:00:16 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Or even a Smooth 74?


Re: [RBW] Re: Cutting tnreadless steer tube

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Richard,
Thanks for starting this thread.
I'm building a Gus, too, and judging by how long the steerer tube is 
unmounted I think it's likely I'll cut mine down to a more desirable length.
When I make the steerer cut, I'm going to leave enough minimum length above 
headset stack to allow for use of a stem style like this Discord Chromo Peeper 
. This style stem would be a great way to regain bar height, if needed, after 
cutting steerer.


| 
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|  |  |

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Discord Chromo Peeper

Discord stems have a theme: short reach, lots of stack. We’re obsessed, an 
obsession that transcends trends. Tre...
 |

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Scott

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 05:01:05 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks folks. You all have confirmed my own thoughts.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 16, 2023, at 11:25 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:



Ed's solution is probably a good guideline. I would add to not be in a hurry 
to cut it, you may ride it for a while and realize Boscos aren't your thing and 
will need extra steerer for a lower bar. I would put a bunch of spacers on top 
and let it be weird for a couple months! 
On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 7:40:41 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

Perhaps a question for Gus owners only? Is there a consensus on cutting down 
steering tubes? My Bosco bar will arrive in a day or two & I anticipate I will 
end up with a lot of extra steerer. How much is too much above the stem once 
the fit is dialed in? Not just an aesthetic issue but a practical one as well.


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: seatpost Nitto S83 26.8 300mm

2023-01-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Thanks for the lead, Ryan.
I saw the 350 on Riv's site. I'm not completely opposed to savagery, but it's 
plan C.
Scott

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 07:54:09 PM MST, Ryan Frahm 
 wrote:  
 
 Rivendell has the 350mm. Could always cut it if needed!

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 4:35:58 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

If anyone has a Nitto S83 in 26.8 x 300mm in good to better condition, please 
message me off list.
Or if someone has a lead as to where to purchase one new, that'd be great, too. 
I've tried a number of different vendors but all were out of stock.

Thanks,
Scott



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Re: [RBW] Re: bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

2023-01-17 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Respondents, I'm grateful for all your input/suggestions. Once again, I've 
learned through your experiences.
John, read your suggestion about possibility of screw retaining BB cable guide 
being too long and interfering with BB and immediately grabbed my screw driver 
to check it. Unfortunately (or fortunately), that's not source of increased BB 
spindle rotation resistance I described in my original post. Given the location 
of screw in BB shell and shape of BB itself in same location, the screw does 
not touch the BB when fully seated. Great suggestion, though!
Mr. Ray, I think this model BB came onto the market beginning in the mid 90's, 
so it is likely as old as you note. If the grease viscosity changed over time, 
I think spindle spin resistance would feel same with BB uninstalled vs 
installed. However, I do buy into your suggestions "just attach cranks and 
ride" and "the spindle should spin smoothly after breaking in." Thanks for the 
reassuring "don't worry" advice.
Garth, my issue isn't bits coming loose. I'm going to stick with factory torque 
specs; and if something comes loose, I'll throw (or at least consider) the 
kitchen sink at it.
George, thanks for the tips about how to address loose bits.
Nick, a quick search on Google machine for pros/cons to chase and face of new 
frames reveals entrenched camps both for and against. Both camps make sound 
arguments, depending on the BB type and other factors. I'm going to avoid the 
DEEP rabbit hole my comments/thoughts for or against would take us. I welcome 
yours, though. For now, since my BB is a cartridge-type and threading-in DS and 
NDS by hand felt way smooth, I'm going to forgo chase and face steps.
Andy, I appreciate you sharing the personal metrics you've acquired having 
installed many BBs. It's that knowledge base I wanted to tap into. I'm inclined 
to agree with your comment "the [BB] bearings (of units that become legend like 
yours) are ... superior enough in precision that you can feel some resistance 
prior to what break in will produce. They ought to be fine." Regarding your 
sentence "No grinding or destructive feeling load felt, I built enough box 
bikes to know how a cruddy BB feels by the intermittence of resistance or that 
grinding feeling in the 360° of rotation," that's insightful. While I do feel 
an increased resistance to spinning the spindle by hand after the BB is 
installed, there is no "grinding or destructive feel" to the 360 spindle 
rotation, and it is perfectly smooth, just increased resistance.
While my wrenching skills are deft (IMHO), I lack the metrics one gains through 
voluminous installations of various bits. BUT, I'm not scared to ask those that 
do have experiences, so thanks, all!

Hope everyone's 2023 is off to a good start...
Scott



On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 05:39:16 AM MST, ascpgh  
wrote:  
 
 Your NOS BBs have really nice high quality bearings. I would imagine that the 
tolerances related to a mild load on those bearings that accumulate from the 
bearings themselves in the cylinder, the cartridge installation cups' 
receptacle ends, their threading and the frame's BB threading when all torqued 
to spec add up enough to produce some perceived interference to silk smooth 
finger rotation. 
BBs take a pretty big load in use and the bearings (of units that become legend 
like yours) are not particularly delicate but superior enough in precision that 
you can  feel some resistance prior to what break in will produce. They ought 
to be fine. 
When I replaced the Phil Wood BB in my Rambouillet with an SKF for a shorter 
spindle when going from triple to wide double I was stunned by the drag the 
SKF's seal system put on finger rotation and installed crank free rotation 
after spinning them. Not because of a single outer rubber grommet but the 
labyrinths of each end and lubricant inside. No grinding or destructive feeling 
load felt, I built enough box bikes to know how a cruddy BB feels by the 
intermittence of resistance or that grinding feeling in the 360° of rotation. 
By free tune up time after the sale some of the most mundane no-brand BBs were 
running smoothly and kept doing their job for a reasonable if not notable 
duration given how primitive and cheap they appeared to be.
Hubs act the same way to finger rotation or wheel free spinning after 
installation. I came to dislike Shimano Parallax architecture hubs because of 
their rubber cone seals, connected to axle nut, engaged and rotated in a large 
diameter but thin groove on the end of he hub body. Lots of drag on top of the 
tactile sense that they were easily overcome by dust, water or mud.
Andy CheathamPittsbugrh

On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 1:36:11 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

Hey, Bunch:
Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having with an 
install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR UN91) in 
Atlantis and torqued to 

Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

2023-01-16 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Bill:
Specifically, which model Nitto bull bar, clamp diameter, and width bar are you 
considering running?
I'm building an Atlantis, too. And I'm strongly considering a bull bar and 
wonder what you're on to.
Thanks,
Scott

On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 06:57:32 AM MST, Bill Fulford 
 wrote:  
 
 Good luck with your build. I’m in a similar situation, but mine is a rebuild 
of a 15 year old Atlantis. I already have replaced the wheels with Atlas rims 
and am on my second silver crank so I’m not going new on those. New Paul brake 
levers and Canti brakes have arrived along with ergon handlebar grips. New 
monarch pedals, nitto stem, Rivendell shifters, and sim works super yummy tires 
have been collected. Im leaning toward the Nitto bull bar as my reinvented 
Atlantis is going to be an all rounder. The final cabling and adjustment will 
probably be done by my lbs as I like a well tuned bike and I don’t have enough 
confidence in my mechanics. 
It’s been fun researching and making decisions. ~BillOn Monday, January 16, 
2023 at 1:46:21 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:

Congratulations How exciting when the planning and futzing over the bike 
and parts finally come together. Any changes in parts and such while thinking 
over the build? I know when I built the Rivendell Mountain I went back and 
forth on several items. Thought of doing an 8 speed freewheel, but it seemed 
much when accounting for the hub set up and scarcity of 8 speed freewheels. 
Planned on doing a Nitto built Ritchey stem, but going with the Softride 
suspension stem was a strong pull. 
Take it slow, don't supper force anything. Take it easy with the hammer! Lol!!!
Thanks,
Reginald Alexis

On Saturday, January 14, 2023 at 9:37:33 AM UTC-6 jak...@me.com wrote:

I had to say it:  "Just ship it to me".
If Vince knew any better, he would have talked me out of it.    I've never 
built a bike from (mostly) scratch before, and of course it had to be a Riv.  
Gutsy.  There may be other less flattering words for it.
Learning from all of you has given me false bravado to forge ahead, so I shall. 
 Picking parts has been a delight.  I have been embracing the anticipation of 
arriving shiny bits as  patience will most definitely be virtue.  Just one more 
box from Riv and I'll have all I need.  I think I have a hammer around here 
somewhere.
If I blow it, you'll never hear from me again.  If it rolls fast and true, I 
will post a glorious, victorious photo from Flatistan, FL.
See any parts you like?  Wish me luck!
#goheavyontheboeshield







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Re: [RBW] bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

2023-01-15 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Edit correction to my post, please.
Second sentence of third paragraph of original post should read:
When I turn the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some resistance 
and a tad sticky), unlike the one I installed in Atlantis or an uninstalled on.


On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 11:44:35 AM MST, 'Scott' via RBW Owners 
Bunch  wrote:  
 
 Hey, Bunch:
Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having with an 
install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR UN91) in 
Atlantis and torqued to spec. It's butterlicious smooth. Installed cranks and 
gave them a spin. It's what every man, woman, and child wants. 

I installed same BB (also new) in Gus and tightened to spec. When I turn the 
spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some resistance and a tad sticky) 
like the one I installed in Atlantis or an uninstalled one. Why is that? I 
checked it before install, and it was butter smooth. I uninstalled it from Gus, 
and it spins butter smooth. I reinstalled main body section to spec, and it is 
butter smooth, no change. When I install the opposing cup (Shimano calls it an 
adapter), at this point is when I begin to notice a notable change in spindle 
rotation smoothness.
I've ensured proper shell widths. And I've ensured shell/cartridge faces are 
clean and blemish-free.
Of note, opposing cup spins freely during install for about one third the way 
to full seat. From there it spins freely part of rotation and not freely 
otherwise. I can turn it by hand still using splined-tool, but there is 
definitely resistance during part of the rotation. After I can't go any further 
by hand, I fully seat with torque wrench.
Could it be that the threads on either side of the shell are not exactly 
coplanar, since threads are not continuous from one side of shell to the 
other?It shouldn't be a shell facing issue, because the opposing cup doesn't 
interface with shell face.
Confounding to me. There isn't much to installing a new cartridge style BB into 
a new frame...screw it in. That's the problem, in part. There's nothing to 
correct with install technique. I'd love to be wrong and get it butter smooth 
like one in my Atlantis, for example.

Please, share your thoughts as to what the source of issue may be and 
recommended remedy!
Scott in (I want it to be spring, summer, and fall) Montana






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Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-13 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 What did you discover? Did you by chance try the Flat 65?

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 09:42:36 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 Man, wonderful info about the 74s – thank you for taking the time to relay 
that. The above posted photos of them show a significant amount of modification 
(cutting) to fit which I might be game to do however what I won’t tolerate is 
losing ample clearance around the tire. I’m about to head into the shop for the 
day and will throw the Atlantis in the stand and see if any of the dimensions 
of the Flat 65s would work, etc. At the very least I’ll share the mishaps I 
encounter as I try to push the limits of what the Atlantis can fit with you 
all. 
David – I appreciate that suggestion. I’ll throw around the dimensions of those 
with the mechanics today and see if they also see that working out. I feel 
pretty dedicated to the idea of fenders on this thing and the recent rain has 
left me wanting to ride more with less of a reason not to regardless of the 
weather. I feel like having fenders is the definitive way to make a bike a year 
round possibility, whether or not it’s a downpour.
- Luke in rainy, hailing San Francisco
On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:

That's great info, though too bad the 74s won't fit out of the box.

Before giving up on 2.25s and fenders, I'd take some measurements and see if 
Flat 65s would work in the frame and fork (and chain in low/low). If so you 
should be able to get them setup with the 2.25s G-ones since they don't really 
have knobs (assuming the tires actually measure out to 2.25 or less).

I'm thinking that Smooth 62s with 50mm tires would work on my Platy so I'd 
guess the Atlantis could do incrementally more.
-Dave

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 psc...@gmail.com wrote:

I have a set of smooth 74's in my shop for another bike (not yet fitted) and 
holding them up to my Atlantis, they don't fit without cutting and  heavily 
dimpling the fenders to fit between seat stays, also fork blades, and remove 
fender material around the chain stays.  Not for the faint of heart but looks 
possible with patience and proper jigs for setting the dimples just right.  
There's little question that the fenders will fit over your tires, but on an 
Atlantis, it will take some work.  The problem I would worry about is this, by 
the time you dimple the fender enough to fit, you may have lost your clearance 
around the tire at those points.  If you remove metal at those edges where it 
is too tight then the structure of the fender is seriously compromised.  I'd go 
with a smooth 62 fender and 50mm tire on Atlantis and save the 74's w 2.25 
tires for a bike with more clearance (like a Clem).  

On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 1:21:11 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Kim! Fantastic news. I had hoped the smooth would be operable as they look to 
have better coverage than the Flat 80. I appreciate the help here! Ordering 
pronto. 

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:59:09 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

Kevin Purcell is co-owner of Golden Pliers in Portland, Oregon. ...left this 
out.

Kim.

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:51:08 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:

Hi Luke,
On my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike, I am running a pair of Schwalbe Rapid Rob 
29x2.25 ". As one of my last upgrades for my bike are the SimWorks Honjo Smooth 
74 steel fenders as yet to be.   

Before I came confident in a decision about which fenders I should buy for my 
bike, I had emailed Steve Smith, the General Manager at SimWorks in Portland, 
Oregon. He said that the Smooth 74s' would work. Steve referred me to Kevin, 
who owns an orange Rivendell Clementine bike. Kevin's bike has the Honjo Smooth 
74 fenders. He had to modify the rear fender; cutting out a section for 
clearance for the chain above the chain stay. See attached pictures. I did not 
ask at the time what size tires Kevin is running on his bike. I was more 
concerned about what shim size I needed for a 27.2mm seat post for my Clem. 

All in all, I can say that the Honjo Smooth 74 fenders with accommodate 
29x2.25" or 57.15mm tires. In the description of the those fenders on the 
SimWorks website, the maximum tire size is 58~mm. 

Hope this helps and not to confuse you.
Kim HetzelYelm, WA 

..changing out my chain and rear derailleur to new.


On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:00:16 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Or even a Smooth 74?

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 6:38:49 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

Hey all! I just swapped out my beefy Maxxis tires for some 2.25” Schwalbe 
Allround tires. Would I be able to get by with the SimWorks x Honjo Flat 65? Or 
would I need the Flat 80? And how’s the fit? Any input much appreciated.









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Re: [RBW] Last Gus and Susie, 1/12/23, 3est

2023-01-11 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Anybody taking the plunge for a Gus or Susie?

On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 06:25:04 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 This is it kids, 3 Eastern, 12 Pacific. Be there. Aloha. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roller-Cam brakes

2022-12-27 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
+1 for Ryan's request for more pics

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Dec 27, 2022 at 6:29 PM, Ryan wrote:   I know this 
is a Rivendell forum...but show us more pictures of this lovely bike , please
Hope everyone is safe and warm and managing to enjoy family time in the 
holidays  in this challenging weather

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 8:14:41 PM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:

Winner winner, chicken dinner.  That's one of the nicest bikes I've ever seen.  
Good trade!

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 6:27:06 PM UTC-7 WilletM wrote:


I don't get a chance to share pics of my Ritchey Annapurna all that often, but 
this is a good illustration of the pricey WTB rollercams front and rear, with 
the rear being chainstay mounted.  This frame was originally built up with a 
Campy Euclid gruppo, but the original owner (who must've been flush with cash, 
is all I can think) decided to bling it up with WTB and other 
top-of-the-top-shelf items, which necessitated also ordering a second Annapurna 
fork with rollercam mounts in the correct positions.
Back in the early 1990's, I was in the right place at the right time and traded 
a nice-but-nothing-too-special Bridgestone RB-1 and $600 for this Annapurna and 
a mint Cinelli Supercorsa with Campy NR/SR.  Those were the days.
Willet M.





On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 3:23:37 PM UTC-7 James wrote:

This is encouraging information!  Thanks for sharing the knowledge.  Hoping to 
see the bike this week

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 1:48:12 PM UTC-5 Greg J wrote:

James, if the picture you attached is the actual bike you're looking at, those 
are the nice ones.  You should have no issues with those brakes.  They work 
great, they take normal brake shoes, and there are plenty enough of them for 
spare parts (although they're pretty well built).  Good luck!
Greg

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 9:54:22 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

Those can be great brakes.  You're fortunate that the posts are located on the 
seat stays. Most often they are on the bottom of the chainstays and are 
difficult to work on just because of lack of space.  There are two slightly 
different versions of those sun tour brakes, with one generally being 
considered superior.  I don't know enough to identify which yours is  but 
there's info out there.  There are also U-brakes that look like giant 
frame-mount center-pull caliper brakes, which use the same mounting standard, 
but I don't know that they're an improvement at all.  They're bulky and have 
limited clearance.  There are also super sought-after roller cams made by 
WTB/Charlie Cunningham/DKG machine, but they'd be a couple thousand dollars 
each  IF you could even find them.  The sun tours are a licensed version of 
those, and are pretty neat for a runabout hobby bike.

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 10:39:26 AM UTC-7 James wrote:

This isn't a Rivendell related question, and for that I apologize, but ya'll 
are the most bike-savvy people I "know".  I see a lot of value in a cheap, 
knock-around, lock-up-anywhere bike, so I have my eyes on a local Schwinn High 
Sierra.  It has roller-cam brakes and I have know experience with those.  What 
is yawls experience with roller-cam breaks and due to the placement of the 
mounts on the frame, what other brakes may be compatible?  The mounts seem 
higher on the frame than cantilever mounts.  Would center or side-pull brakes 
work?  What other options do I have?  Thank you
Picture: https://imgur.com/0IqjRl1








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Re: [RBW] ISO: Missing Link wheel building book

2022-12-16 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 David,
Grateful for the tip. I'll check it out.
Scott

On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 04:23:04 PM MST, David Person 
 wrote:  
 
 I am unfamiliar with this publication and don't mean to hijack your post, but 
when I took up wheel building two years ago I purchased a copy of Roger 
Munson's "Professional Guide to Wheel Building" and it was the best $12 I've 
ever spent.  The book is so well written and laid out that it gave me 
confidence that I could successfully build a set of wheels.  I've since built 7 
pairs.  The book is not only a great resource, I found it an enjoyable read.  
I've got copies of other books on wheel building, including the classic "The 
Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.  None 'spoke' to me like the Munson book (yeah, 
pun intended).  I can't speak highly enough about it.  I've go no financial 
ties to Roger or his book, I'm just not sure I would have take the plunge into 
wheel building had I not read it.
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php


On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 12:58:02 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

Oooo. I'd sure like same!
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 


  On Fri, Dec 16, 2022 at 1:43 PM, Slin wrote:  

Hi All,
I was just chatting with Rich Lesnik and he recommended a wheel building 
book/pamphlet from the Missing Link (sad hearing that shop is closing, btw).
I was wondering if anyone had a copy I could buy or know if there are scans of 
it somewhere.
Thanks!Slin




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Re: [RBW] Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-16 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Jason,
Thanks for the Nitto M137 recommendation. I'll check it out. I've already 
ordered the Nitto made RH Randonneur. In the product description it wasn't 
noted as a long reach bar. Maybe you could check their site and let me know 
what you think of the bar description, please? It sounds like a good bar to 
have in the quiver.

And exactly what do you mean it likely won't work with my stem, too much reach? 
I have Nitto FacePlaters in 60, 85, 110, and 135 and was thinking about 
starting with 60 as a starting point.
Cheers,
Scott

On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 02:05:26 PM MST, Jason Fuller 
 wrote:  
 
 Late to the party, but I wholeheartedly suggest the Nitto M137 'dirt drop' 
bar.  I have the 54cm, which measures 54 at the ends but about 49-50cm at the 
hoods. Not super long reach like a randonneur bar (which won't fit right if you 
try to re-use your stem, most likely), but still has pretty classic looks with 
just a bit of modern flare (literally, and figuratively).  Got mine from Blue 
Lug. 

On Thursday, 15 December 2022 at 11:22:11 UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

I have to retract my overly confident assertion: "best" for bars and saddles 
can only mean "best for me." But here is what I like about the Maes Parallel, 
after using scores of other road and "dirt" drop  bars.
The long flat ramps. I like my bars set up with ramps and ends of hooks 
parallel to the ground, and the MP seems perfectly designed for this, allowing 
you to mount your levers high enough without eliminating the flat ramp ahead of 
the hoods. 
Positions: Instead of 4 positions: hooks, hoods, ramps behind hoods, flats, I 
get 5: hooks, hoods, ramps behind hoods, ramps a bit further back, flats.
The flat hooks. My left palm hurts when I rest it for more than 10 minutes on a 
slanted hook. The other day I was in the hooks of the MP bar for a good 5 miles 
non-stop, total 7 miles with a bit of a break; again, very sensitive left palm. 
True, I did shift the left palm around every half mile or mile, but I was in 
the drop position as described. Can't do that with drop bar slanted downward.

The moderate drop. I like an aero hoods position, but enough difference when 
moving from hoods to hooks so that there is material advantage against a 
headwind; but I dislike deep drops which at almost 68 I find too low -- reason 
I swapped out the 140 mm drop Nitto 165 and Giro d'Italia bars for the MPs 
(both have 90 mm ramps and 140 mm drop, IIRC). The MPs are wonderful for this: 
again, long reach, modest drop.
Finally, the quality: the best of Nitto standards among all the levels of high 
Nitto quality standards.
Oh, and even more finally: they have a prettier polish than say the Noodle or 
165 or GdI.

On Sun, Dec 11, 2022 at 3:25 PM 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

 Patrick:
Please, clarify what you mean by "best road drop bar on the market at least for 
non-brifter brake levers."
I have a set of Ultegra brifters I'm wanting to install on my newly purchased 
HR Randonneur bars, as you know are similar to the Maes Parrallel.
Scott

On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 12:10:08 AM MST, Patrick Moore 
 wrote:  
 
 I use the Maes Parallel on 3 bikes and IMO it's the best road drop bar on the 
market at least for non-brifter brake levers: longish reach, long flat ramps, 
modest drop, flat hooks. It does come in 31.8.
On Thu, Dec 8, 2022 at 9:34 AM 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

 Steve,
Are you in same position I am, looking for a 31.8 drop?
Did you see the RH Maes Parallel on the their site?
Thoughts?!
Has anyone else tried the RH Randonneur or Maes Parallel? Takes, please?
Best,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 05:37:57 AM MST, Steven Sweedler 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott, yesterday on the Bob list I asked about comparisons of the Noodle and 
the RH Randonneur bar that comes in 31.8. The two responders liked both bars 
and had used them for years. Steve
On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 10:07 PM 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott


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Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] ISO: Missing Link wheel building book

2022-12-16 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Oooo. I'd sure like same!
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Dec 16, 2022 at 1:43 PM, Slin wrote:   Hi All,
I was just chatting with Rich Lesnik and he recommended a wheel building 
book/pamphlet from the Missing Link (sad hearing that shop is closing, btw).
I was wondering if anyone had a copy I could buy or know if there are scans of 
it somewhere.
Thanks!Slin


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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Headsets and Chains

2022-12-14 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Jim,
Thanks for your efforts to share pictures of headset.
Cheers,
Scott
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 10:31 AM, Jingy wrote:  
 Scott, here are the photos you requested and a link to some more: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1v5Hsa_jF_Y3cdLF9GDtnCxCac-wKfSLX?usp=share_link
Jim

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 7:21:03 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

Eric, thanks for your take on headset!
I was hoping Corwin would post pictures of the headset laid out, not stacked, 
so one could visualize the respective parts. And one picture I'd like a do-over 
of is the one that glares out the side of box that lists kit contents.

It's esthetically pleasing, anyways. I could do without the lettering/language, 
as I don't like serving as a company's billboard.
Are bearings cartridge or carriage type?
Cheers,
Scott
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 


  On Tue, Dec 13, 2022 at 5:54 PM, Eric Marth wrote:  

Scott — Nice for the price and would buy again and not think twice. 
Nice finish, seems to be considered a good design by people who've run them on 
their bikes. Zero miles on mine so far. 

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 7:34:46 PM UTC-5 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:

Lol.  Still getting used to this place.  Just realized my last comment 
responded to something from 6+ months ago...so it goes...at least the thread 
was current ;)
That said, just want to thank the OP again for doing this as CC is so 
meaningful to the sport of cycling and any support directed his way is great!  
Hope to see more opportunities like this.  Thx!
On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 6:26:14 PM UTC-6 Justus G wrote:

I think Greg is actually referring to the SS model, which is an early Ibis 
bike, as opposed to meaning single speed.
As someone with a couple of Scorchers, I will only say that the one thing that 
is more fun than an Ibis Scorcher is a Willits Scorcher with Schwalbe 2.35" Big 
Ones.  Fixed and Plush!  In fact, I never really enjoyed fixed riding as much, 
until I rode fixed and fat.  The originals are an interesting insight into the 
influence Wes would ultimately have and so cool, but he really nailed it with 
the Willits versions as a blast of a bike.

On Friday, April 29, 2022 at 1:55:27 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

Greg...is that Ibis the Scorcher? Man...that bike was so cool. If it didn't in 
some way inspire the Bridgestone X0-1 , I'd be very surprised. They certainly 
both have that iconoclastic vibe 
http://www.63xc.com/scorcher/scorcher.htm 

On Friday, April 29, 2022 at 12:48:56 PM UTC-5 Greg J wrote:

I am also thinking hard about which bike is appropriate for this headset.  The 
closest I have to that era MTB is an Ibis SS, but I'm thinking maybe the '81 
Ritchey sport-touring or the Riv Wford All-Rounder?
Greg

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 3:26:17 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

I'm going to put the headset in a place of high honor on my new forthcoming 
Nobilette Roadeo.  In honor of Charlie I'm going to execute two maker projects:
1. I'm going to make a little plastic shadowbox to display the postcard of 
Jacquie and Charlie, along with the autographed headset box.  I'll hang that on 
my wall.2. But wait, Bill, your new Roadeo is going to be 1" threadless!  Yup!  
In my community college machine shop class, I'm going to convert this threaded 
headset into a threadless headset.  How the heck are you gonna pull of that 
craziness?!?!  Wait and see!
Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 6:46:16 AM UTC-7 Mitch Browne wrote:

Received my NIB headset and chain yesterday.  Nice picture card of Jacquie and 
Charlie inside box.
MitchSan Luis Obispo, CA

On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 6:02:26 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:

I got a headset coming my way. I don't even know what it's for. I'm turning 50 
next month, maybe I'll incorporate it into a bike present for myself!
Eric
On Wed, Apr 27, 2022 at 12:03 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

This was such an obvious purchase.  I sat back to be polite and let all the 
smart money buy them up.  When I emailed Jacquie she still had headsets to 
sell.  So I bought a headset and a chain.  I'll sit back again to let the smart 
money buy what remains, but after my politeness runs out, I might go back and 
buy more.  
Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

On Friday, April 22, 2022 at 9:38:08 PM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:


Hi -
 
Posting this for a couple friends. Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie Phelan have 
an ample store of spare parts. Today, we offer you WTB headsets and Sachs/Sedis 
chains. Please send mail directly to Jacquie: Jacquie at batnet.com. Payment 
should be via paypal using Jacquie's email address. Friends and family only 
please. Please do not send any money until Jacquie confirms your purchase.
 
About the headsets... These are WTB Grease Guard headsets. Grease Guard was a 
"thing" back in the early days of mountain biking. Charlie created Grease Guard 
and SunTour licensed it. Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) is the company Charlie 
founded and was later 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Headsets and Chains

2022-12-13 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Eric, thanks for your take on headset!
I was hoping Corwin would post pictures of the headset laid out, not stacked, 
so one could visualize the respective parts. And one picture I'd like a do-over 
of is the one that glares out the side of box that lists kit contents.

It's esthetically pleasing, anyways. I could do without the lettering/language, 
as I don't like serving as a company's billboard.
Are bearings cartridge or carriage type?
Cheers,
Scott
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Dec 13, 2022 at 5:54 PM, Eric Marth wrote:   
Scott — Nice for the price and would buy again and not think twice. 
Nice finish, seems to be considered a good design by people who've run them on 
their bikes. Zero miles on mine so far. 

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 7:34:46 PM UTC-5 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:

Lol.  Still getting used to this place.  Just realized my last comment 
responded to something from 6+ months ago...so it goes...at least the thread 
was current ;)
That said, just want to thank the OP again for doing this as CC is so 
meaningful to the sport of cycling and any support directed his way is great!  
Hope to see more opportunities like this.  Thx!
On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 6:26:14 PM UTC-6 Justus G wrote:

I think Greg is actually referring to the SS model, which is an early Ibis 
bike, as opposed to meaning single speed.
As someone with a couple of Scorchers, I will only say that the one thing that 
is more fun than an Ibis Scorcher is a Willits Scorcher with Schwalbe 2.35" Big 
Ones.  Fixed and Plush!  In fact, I never really enjoyed fixed riding as much, 
until I rode fixed and fat.  The originals are an interesting insight into the 
influence Wes would ultimately have and so cool, but he really nailed it with 
the Willits versions as a blast of a bike.

On Friday, April 29, 2022 at 1:55:27 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

Greg...is that Ibis the Scorcher? Man...that bike was so cool. If it didn't in 
some way inspire the Bridgestone X0-1 , I'd be very surprised. They certainly 
both have that iconoclastic vibe 
http://www.63xc.com/scorcher/scorcher.htm 

On Friday, April 29, 2022 at 12:48:56 PM UTC-5 Greg J wrote:

I am also thinking hard about which bike is appropriate for this headset.  The 
closest I have to that era MTB is an Ibis SS, but I'm thinking maybe the '81 
Ritchey sport-touring or the Riv Wford All-Rounder?
Greg

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 3:26:17 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

I'm going to put the headset in a place of high honor on my new forthcoming 
Nobilette Roadeo.  In honor of Charlie I'm going to execute two maker projects:
1. I'm going to make a little plastic shadowbox to display the postcard of 
Jacquie and Charlie, along with the autographed headset box.  I'll hang that on 
my wall.2. But wait, Bill, your new Roadeo is going to be 1" threadless!  Yup!  
In my community college machine shop class, I'm going to convert this threaded 
headset into a threadless headset.  How the heck are you gonna pull of that 
craziness?!?!  Wait and see!
Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 6:46:16 AM UTC-7 Mitch Browne wrote:

Received my NIB headset and chain yesterday.  Nice picture card of Jacquie and 
Charlie inside box.
MitchSan Luis Obispo, CA

On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 6:02:26 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:

I got a headset coming my way. I don't even know what it's for. I'm turning 50 
next month, maybe I'll incorporate it into a bike present for myself!
Eric
On Wed, Apr 27, 2022 at 12:03 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

This was such an obvious purchase.  I sat back to be polite and let all the 
smart money buy them up.  When I emailed Jacquie she still had headsets to 
sell.  So I bought a headset and a chain.  I'll sit back again to let the smart 
money buy what remains, but after my politeness runs out, I might go back and 
buy more.  
Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

On Friday, April 22, 2022 at 9:38:08 PM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:


Hi -
 
Posting this for a couple friends. Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie Phelan have 
an ample store of spare parts. Today, we offer you WTB headsets and Sachs/Sedis 
chains. Please send mail directly to Jacquie: Jacquie at batnet.com. Payment 
should be via paypal using Jacquie's email address. Friends and family only 
please. Please do not send any money until Jacquie confirms your purchase.
 
About the headsets... These are WTB Grease Guard headsets. Grease Guard was a 
"thing" back in the early days of mountain biking. Charlie created Grease Guard 
and SunTour licensed it. Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) is the company Charlie 
founded and was later forced out of. These are 1" threaded headsets, and are 
new-in-box. Each box is personally signed by Charlie, so you not only get a 
great headset - you get a piece of history and a collector's item. The headsets 
are priced at $75 plus shipping via USPS.
 
About the chains... These are Sachs/Sedis 6/7/8 speed chains. They measure 57 
inches long and therefore have 114 links each. The 

Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Headsets and Chains

2022-12-13 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Eric, what's your in-hand impression of the headset?

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 03:17:05 PM MST, Eric Marth 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks again to Corwin for helping with the sale and purchase of these 
headsets. I've got one I'm preparing to use for a build. 
I understand the Grease Guard design was licensed by Suntour, does anyone know 
who made these WTB headsets and where? I'm also curious to know when they were 
manufactured. All part of the story. Thanks!

On Friday, May 6, 2022 at 2:55:54 AM UTC-4 Corwin wrote:

Bump!
Jacquie and Charlie want everyone to know they still have lots of headsets and 
chains for anyone that wants or needs one or both.
Please contact Jacquie (jacquie "at" batnet.com) if you're interested.
Thanks,

Corwin

On Friday, April 22, 2022 at 9:38:08 PM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:


Hi -
 
Posting this for a couple friends. Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie Phelan have 
an ample store of spare parts. Today, we offer you WTB headsets and Sachs/Sedis 
chains. Please send mail directly to Jacquie: Jacquie at batnet.com. Payment 
should be via paypal using Jacquie's email address. Friends and family only 
please. Please do not send any money until Jacquie confirms your purchase.
 
About the headsets... These are WTB Grease Guard headsets. Grease Guard was a 
"thing" back in the early days of mountain biking. Charlie created Grease Guard 
and SunTour licensed it. Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) is the company Charlie 
founded and was later forced out of. These are 1" threaded headsets, and are 
new-in-box. Each box is personally signed by Charlie, so you not only get a 
great headset - you get a piece of history and a collector's item. The headsets 
are priced at $75 plus shipping via USPS.
 
About the chains... These are Sachs/Sedis 6/7/8 speed chains. They measure 57 
inches long and therefore have 114 links each. The chains are new and unused. 
You can buy a less expensive chain elsewhere - or you can buy one of these 
Sachs/Sedis chains, get a piece of history and help out Jacquie and Charlie. 
The chains are priced at $40 each plus shipping via USPS.

Link for photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMZGGcXysNkzkBBR7

Thanks for looking,




Corwin





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Re: [RBW] Cliffhanger alternatives?

2022-12-13 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Richard, what width tire are you wanting to run on your new Gus, 2.8?
I'm getting some Cliffs built for my new Gus, and I plan on running 2.6 to 
begin with and like having the option to run 2.8 tires. 2.6 is within 
Velocity's recommended rim width. I think one could safely go outside of 
"recommended" tire width and run a 2.8 on a Cliff. It's .1 per side wider. It's 
not like going from a 1.9 to say a 2.8.
I find a decent selection of 2.6 tires out there, 2.8 not so much. Have you got 
a good 2.8 in mind? Do tell. I'd like to look into it. I wouldn't hesitate to 
run 2.8 on my Cliffs, whenever they show up on my door step...
Also, please share what shakes out in your BB search for your Gus.
Best,
Scott in about to get very cold Montana

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 08:29:36 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 2.5"-2.6" tires seem to be at the very upper limits for the venerable 
Cliffhanger. Is anyone aware of a 700c  rim brake rim that is a bit wider? I 
have not found one.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Gus & bottom bracket confusion

2022-12-12 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
The forum, in part, is a good starting point for trivial questions like yours, 
Richard. If you aren't satisfied with answers, or lack there of, here then, of 
course, Riv is another option to seek an answer. You haven't committed a party 
foul, IMHO...
I'm faced with same issue, since I have a Gus on the way, too. I plan on trying 
a 107 and then a 113. I plan on using an XTR M900 set of triple cranks and 
using the middle ring only, as a 1x. You seek increased chain line by way of 
longer spindle. I am getting increased chain line out of using middle ring on 
my triple.
PM me if you wanna drill down on it. I need to sort it out, too.
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Dec 12, 2022 at 10:06 AM, Richard Rose wrote:   
Oh I agree & believe me I call them a lot! I just thought the collective brain 
power of this group might give me an answer before they wake up in California.

On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 10:41:25 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

No offense, but you're asking RBW business questions that would be addressed by 
them. Call them ! They don't bite. 
On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 10:11:44 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

I have decided to stick with a square taper crank, either White Eno or Riv 
Silver, and I have bottom bracket questions.Gus BB shell is 73 BSA. The bottom 
brackets they sell (Shimano & IRD) are 68. Riv says "use the 113 (spindle) if 
you have a mountain bike front derailleur." But, they also say r.e. the IRD BB, 
"If you have a Gus or Susie with a tire up to 2.5", you'll need a 123 with the 
right cup spacer." But, they do not even show the 123 as being 
available?Alternatively, White Industries offers both 68 & 73 widths but the 
widest spindle offering is 121.So I guess my question is 1. If I go with a 
Silver double, which bottom bracket to buy? 2. If I go with a White Ind. Eno 
single, which bottom bracket? I plan to run 2.5"-2.6" tires.Thanks in advance 
for our help.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Nivex on a Rivendell?

2022-12-12 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
That's a really cool bit, yet it's a lot to spend just to be different and 
stylish.
What's the functional benefit to investing in one?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Dec 12, 2022 at 10:25 AM, James M wrote:   
Pretty cool - but another $250 for the shift lever.  Still great to see 
components like this being made!

On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 10:57:26 AM UTC-5 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
wrote:

The Nivex is on the market now, and I really like the look of it. Even at 
$729.00 it feels like money well spent if you want something a little different 
and appreciate all that goes into making something like this. KUDOs to Jan for 
sticking with it. Nivex Rear


For a custom Rivendell, it might make for a very sweet build. If my ship comes 
in I'd be tempted to spring for one, but I'll hold out until I see the new Riv 
rear derailer. 
Marty


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Re: [RBW] New Gus shipping from Canada

2022-12-12 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Shouldn't the dealer be able to answer that for you?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Dec 12, 2022 at 10:34 AM, Jacob Byard wrote:   
I bought my Gus from C Cycles out of Montreal. They shipped it to me 
(Pennsylvania) via UPS. I think it took 3 days? UPS sent me the bill for import 
fees and I think it was around $50. Dead simple process. 
Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 12, 2022, at 12:01 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:



Yes, the Gus I found is at a Riv dealer in Canada. Having googled until I 
cannot stand it anymore I ask; anyone have experience with "clearance" fees 
associated with importing a bicycle frame from Canada? The closest I have come 
to uncovering the cost is that items valued under $2,500.00 US are less 
expensive and easier to do than items over $2,500.00. I started a Bikeflights 
estimate and I get the shipping cost and a message that clearance fees will be 
calculated and added to order.

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Re: [RBW] Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-11 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Patrick:
Please, clarify what you mean by "best road drop bar on the market at least for 
non-brifter brake levers."
I have a set of Ultegra brifters I'm wanting to install on my newly purchased 
HR Randonneur bars, as you know are similar to the Maes Parrallel.
Scott

On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 12:10:08 AM MST, Patrick Moore 
 wrote:  
 
 I use the Maes Parallel on 3 bikes and IMO it's the best road drop bar on the 
market at least for non-brifter brake levers: longish reach, long flat ramps, 
modest drop, flat hooks. It does come in 31.8.
On Thu, Dec 8, 2022 at 9:34 AM 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

 Steve,
Are you in same position I am, looking for a 31.8 drop?
Did you see the RH Maes Parallel on the their site?
Thoughts?!
Has anyone else tried the RH Randonneur or Maes Parallel? Takes, please?
Best,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 05:37:57 AM MST, Steven Sweedler 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott, yesterday on the Bob list I asked about comparisons of the Noodle and 
the RH Randonneur bar that comes in 31.8. The two responders liked both bars 
and had used them for years. Steve
On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 10:07 PM 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott


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Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-11 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Joe, I think you're on to something there.
Road graders (as in Caterpillar tractors) look funky with how long their wheel 
base is, but that long wheel base serves a functional purpose, to minimize the 
effects that slight changes in wheel elevation have on blade elevation 
(analogous to where one sits on a bike).

Furthermore, I may be wrong (not unusual), but it seems a longer wheel base 
bike would, ratio-wise, weight the front end more, to a degree (at least it 
does in the dirt bike world).
Scott


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Dec 11, 2022 at 2:46 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:   My 
very short, non-scientific and probably wrong opinion is: The uber-long-stay 
bikes are noticeably more comfortable on choppy roads, but it's not a huge 
difference from the older style. Both are great, the longies feel (to me) like 
somebody added one of those suspension blocks from a Brompton behind the BB 
shell. 

On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 11:34:12 AM UTC-8 J J wrote:

Hi Masa, thanks for your kind message.
You asked "Can I ask you how you describe the feel of the shorter wheelbase 
Rivs please?" — in brief, I find the ride of the shorter wheelbase Rivs 
wonderful! 
Perhaps all of the characteristic differences between short and long wheelbase 
Rivs are relative, and it's hard for me to speak about the longer wheelbase 
models comparatively because I have only ridden one of them, and for a short 
time. The Hunqapillar has always felt very stable and comfortable to me 
regardless of the riding surface (pavement or off road), surface conditions, or 
loads that I carry (whether heavily loaded in the front, the back, both front 
and back, or unloaded). It tracks straight and inspires confidence. 
But I think it's important to note that the Hunq's "short" wheelbase is short 
only relative to the newer super long wheelbase Rivs, not short to most other 
bicycles. Grant was singing the virtues of Riv's long chain stays many, many 
years before Riv started producing super long models. 
Folks who have more recent very long Rivs rave about how stable and comfortable 
they are. I'd love to ride one for longer because it sounds fantastic. I'm sure 
your Platypus rides beautifully!
While the old Toyo Atlantis has a shorter wheelbase and chain stay than the 
Hunq, its ride is similarly stable and confidence inspiring. It does feel a 
touch more nimble, more easily maneuverable. (And I love the classic 
proportions and aesthetics of the Atlantis.) The front end is floppier than the 
Hunq's and I'm not sure if that is because of the geometry differences or 
because it has a narrow drop bar. I have noticeably more toe clip overlap on 
the Atlantis than the Hunq. I will be getting an upright, swept back bar for 
the Atlantis (I have Bosco on the Hunq) because riding drop bars very much 
hurts my shoulders and wrists. I'm curious how upright bars will change how the 
Atlantis feels. I have much wider tires on the Hunq (55mm) than the Atlantis 
(40mm), which also affect the feel. I will get wider tires for the Atlantis, 
too.
I very much take to heart a point Grant makes over and over: many factors and 
many variables beyond geometry numbers affect how a bike rides and feels. 
On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 8:39:04 AM UTC-5 Masa wrote:

Hi Jim, I too am really enjoying this thread to know how the people ride/plan 
their Rivendells!I can easily tell that how your Rivs are beautiful even from 
the head badges:)
Can I ask you how you describe the feel of the shorter wheelbase Rivs 
please?Since my only Riv is Platypus which has longer wheelbase and so do 
majority of the current line up of Riv, I'm not familiar with the shorter 
ones.The more I like the feel of the longer wheelbase Riv, the more I'm curious 
how is the feel of the shorter ones.I would like to know how you feel them!
Thanks,Masa
2022年12月8日木曜日 11:33:57 UTC+9 J J:

I’m really enjoying this thread! Thanks for initiating it, Masa.

Like John, I have a Waterford Hunqapillar (58) I bought new from Rivendell. 
Also like John, I have a Toyo Atlantis (61), a recent acquisition. So John's 
post really resonated. 


A few weeks ago someone asked me, “Why did you buy an Atlantis if you already 
have a Hunq?” I really hadn’t thought about that question. I guess the 
implication was that the two bikes had overlap of purpose. 

To my mind it was more like, why wouldn’t I buy the Atlantis? It checked a lot 
of boxes: Toyo built; fully lugged; quintessential Rivendell; beautiful; 
robust; classic good looks; the submarine green. 



I don’t think anything could replace the Hunq, my true all-rounder. I’d buy 
another if the bike gods kindly bestowed one on me. There is precedent in my 
household of having two of the same bike, a Wilbury and a Glorius.


But the more I ride the Atlantis the more I appreciate just how special it is, 
too. It reminds me of the Hunq in robustness, stability, and lovely ride, but 
it is more compact and a bit livelier and lighter. And I could load 

Re: [RBW] FS 62 cm 2022 MIT Atlantis 4100 OBO

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Emmet:
Another question for ya. I just ordered a set of Cliffs, non-machined sidewall. 
Are you happy with yours? Or given the choice again, would you go machined 
sidewall? The brake pad residue looks a little uneven on your rim is why I ask? 
Think the machined sidewall is the way to go, knowing what you know now?!
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 02:10:33 PM MST, Emmet Sheehan 
 wrote:  
 
 Since someone else already posted it, I'd figure i'd put it up here. Can maybe 
do a better deal if I sell it here instead of Ebay, shoot me an offer?
I’m selling my 2022 MIT 62cm Atlantis built at Hope Cyclery in Johnstown (that 
I posted here a couple months ago). Take a look! 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wkeNcXbQJR1VStvPA

Build highlights:Velocity Cliffhangers 36h - silver rear hub, son dynamo in 
frontTowel Rack bars with Tekro long pull/shimano brakes3x9 drivetrain, silver 
cranks, deore rear, sun xcd frontAsking 4100 shipped and insured OBONever fell 
in love with this like I thought I would, wasn’t quite perfect for twisty, 
technical singletrack I was wanting, and I have several other commuting/touring 
bikes. It is truly a jack of all trades and someone will love it. Maybe you!
-Emmet


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Re: [RBW] FS 62 cm 2022 MIT Atlantis 4100 OBO

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Emmet:
Set-up question for ya. I like direction you took your Atlantis build (I'm in 
middle of building a 62 myself). I'm strongly considering exactly that route. 
How do the road brake levers work with the v-brakes? I've read road levers 
don't have enough pull for v-bakes to provide good breaking. What's your 
experience, since your set-up is just that?
I'm wanting to run Ultegra 600 brifters with XTR v-brakes to get a set-up with 
a cockpit, brakes, and plump tires; like your (for now) Atlantis.

Your thoughts, please?
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 02:10:33 PM MST, Emmet Sheehan 
 wrote:  
 
 Since someone else already posted it, I'd figure i'd put it up here. Can maybe 
do a better deal if I sell it here instead of Ebay, shoot me an offer?
I’m selling my 2022 MIT 62cm Atlantis built at Hope Cyclery in Johnstown (that 
I posted here a couple months ago). Take a look! 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wkeNcXbQJR1VStvPA

Build highlights:Velocity Cliffhangers 36h - silver rear hub, son dynamo in 
frontTowel Rack bars with Tekro long pull/shimano brakes3x9 drivetrain, silver 
cranks, deore rear, sun xcd frontAsking 4100 shipped and insured OBONever fell 
in love with this like I thought I would, wasn’t quite perfect for twisty, 
technical singletrack I was wanting, and I have several other commuting/touring 
bikes. It is truly a jack of all trades and someone will love it. Maybe you!
-Emmet


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Re: [RBW] New Gus!

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Brian, right on. Your reply answers what I was wondering. If you had more than 
enough stump-pull with 32 x 51, I'm hoping I get enough out of a 32 or 30 ring 
x 40 cog

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 12:19 PM, Brian Turner wrote:   
Scott, I’m running 1x11. It’s a real stump-puller. I was finding that I was 
pretty much running it on the smallest 2 cogs when just cruising around town, 
and I was wanting a bit more so that’s why I swapped the chainring. I don’t 
think I sacrificed too much on the low end in doing so, but I’ve yet to take it 
out on a trail since the swap.

On Dec 10, 2022, at 2:08 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



Brian, how many speed cassette? I'm leaning 1x already. 11-51 is wide ratio, 
must be a 10 or 11?I have a 31-40 8 spd I want to try

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 12:04 PM, Brian Turner wrote:   
On my Gus, I’m running a 1x drivetrain. I went with a White crankset and bottom 
bracket (BSA) and I’m using a Deore M5100 RD and matching 11-51 cassette. I 
originally installed a 32t ring up front, but last week I swapped it for a 34t 
to give me a little more on the high end.

On Dec 10, 2022, at 1:12 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



 Richard, I'm stoked for you! Congrats on your new-to-you Gus!
Keep in touch, so we can compare notes on OUR upcoming Gus builds. I've got 
some ideas as to drivetrain options and haven't made a decision yet myself. 
Hoping to hear yours and other member's thoughts about a recipe for a yummy Gus 
drivetrain. 

Did you score a complete bike or f/f?
Merry, early, Christmas...
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 09:17:31 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Wow, what a few days. I love my Clem so much that I have been really craving a 
Susie as a dedicated singletrack bike. I just love the gold color. Alas, none 
to be found anywhere and none on the horizon. But, I found a Gus in my size and 
I quite like the mermaid so I bought it. Now I am selling stuff all over the 
place to justify it. My seldom ridden but fun as heck fatbike is gone and my 
full suspension bike will be gone soon as well. Never a dull moment and then - 
the frames appear on the Crust site. What the actual hell?! But its all good, 
no going back. Excited to get this Gus on the trail this spring. I may have a 
lot of questions drivetrain related. And brakes. As someone else said, 
Christmas came early for me.

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Re: [RBW] New Gus!

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Correction: I have an 11-40 I want to try

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 12:16 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners 
Bunch wrote:   Brian, how many speed 
cassette? I'm leaning 1x already. 11-51 is wide ratio, must be a 10 or 11?I 
have a 31-40 8 spd I want to try

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 12:04 PM, Brian Turner wrote:   
On my Gus, I’m running a 1x drivetrain. I went with a White crankset and bottom 
bracket (BSA) and I’m using a Deore M5100 RD and matching 11-51 cassette. I 
originally installed a 32t ring up front, but last week I swapped it for a 34t 
to give me a little more on the high end.

On Dec 10, 2022, at 1:12 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



 Richard, I'm stoked for you! Congrats on your new-to-you Gus!
Keep in touch, so we can compare notes on OUR upcoming Gus builds. I've got 
some ideas as to drivetrain options and haven't made a decision yet myself. 
Hoping to hear yours and other member's thoughts about a recipe for a yummy Gus 
drivetrain. 

Did you score a complete bike or f/f?
Merry, early, Christmas...
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 09:17:31 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Wow, what a few days. I love my Clem so much that I have been really craving a 
Susie as a dedicated singletrack bike. I just love the gold color. Alas, none 
to be found anywhere and none on the horizon. But, I found a Gus in my size and 
I quite like the mermaid so I bought it. Now I am selling stuff all over the 
place to justify it. My seldom ridden but fun as heck fatbike is gone and my 
full suspension bike will be gone soon as well. Never a dull moment and then - 
the frames appear on the Crust site. What the actual hell?! But its all good, 
no going back. Excited to get this Gus on the trail this spring. I may have a 
lot of questions drivetrain related. And brakes. As someone else said, 
Christmas came early for me.

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Re: [RBW] New Gus!

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Brian, how many speed cassette? I'm leaning 1x already. 11-51 is wide ratio, 
must be a 10 or 11?I have a 31-40 8 spd I want to try

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 10, 2022 at 12:04 PM, Brian Turner wrote:   
On my Gus, I’m running a 1x drivetrain. I went with a White crankset and bottom 
bracket (BSA) and I’m using a Deore M5100 RD and matching 11-51 cassette. I 
originally installed a 32t ring up front, but last week I swapped it for a 34t 
to give me a little more on the high end.

On Dec 10, 2022, at 1:12 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



 Richard, I'm stoked for you! Congrats on your new-to-you Gus!
Keep in touch, so we can compare notes on OUR upcoming Gus builds. I've got 
some ideas as to drivetrain options and haven't made a decision yet myself. 
Hoping to hear yours and other member's thoughts about a recipe for a yummy Gus 
drivetrain. 

Did you score a complete bike or f/f?
Merry, early, Christmas...
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 09:17:31 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Wow, what a few days. I love my Clem so much that I have been really craving a 
Susie as a dedicated singletrack bike. I just love the gold color. Alas, none 
to be found anywhere and none on the horizon. But, I found a Gus in my size and 
I quite like the mermaid so I bought it. Now I am selling stuff all over the 
place to justify it. My seldom ridden but fun as heck fatbike is gone and my 
full suspension bike will be gone soon as well. Never a dull moment and then - 
the frames appear on the Crust site. What the actual hell?! But its all good, 
no going back. Excited to get this Gus on the trail this spring. I may have a 
lot of questions drivetrain related. And brakes. As someone else said, 
Christmas came early for me.

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Re: [RBW] New Gus!

2022-12-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Richard, I'm stoked for you! Congrats on your new-to-you Gus!
Keep in touch, so we can compare notes on OUR upcoming Gus builds. I've got 
some ideas as to drivetrain options and haven't made a decision yet myself. 
Hoping to hear yours and other member's thoughts about a recipe for a yummy Gus 
drivetrain. 

Did you score a complete bike or f/f?
Merry, early, Christmas...
Scott

On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 09:17:31 AM MST, Richard Rose 
 wrote:  
 
 Wow, what a few days. I love my Clem so much that I have been really craving a 
Susie as a dedicated singletrack bike. I just love the gold color. Alas, none 
to be found anywhere and none on the horizon. But, I found a Gus in my size and 
I quite like the mermaid so I bought it. Now I am selling stuff all over the 
place to justify it. My seldom ridden but fun as heck fatbike is gone and my 
full suspension bike will be gone soon as well. Never a dull moment and then - 
the frames appear on the Crust site. What the actual hell?! But its all good, 
no going back. Excited to get this Gus on the trail this spring. I may have a 
lot of questions drivetrain related. And brakes. As someone else said, 
Christmas came early for me.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedals, MKS XC Bear Trap III vs. MKS Bubble Pedals

2022-12-09 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Max:
I would bet the pedals will break-in and spin easier with use. I would expect a 
cartridge bearing system to be as smooth as they get right from the box, but I 
would not expect the same of a free bearing system like the pedals you feel are 
snug out of the box.
As referenced below, I have a number of new 90s XTR shimano hubs (free bearing 
style, not cartridge) that have some resistance when I spin axle by hand, but 
once they are built up with rims and run for a bit they become buttery smooth 
and spin with far less resistance than when new.
I doubt they are overtightened from factory, probably just right. It's unlikely 
they lack grease straight from factory and that you'll be able to improve 
tightness. In some rare cases overtightened/undergreased, maybe, but very 
unlikely. The factory isn't like us trying to set "tightness."

Just my 2 pennies.
Scott

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 08:26:48 AM MST, maxcr 
 wrote:  
 
 Thank you everyone for your replies, here's my takeaway after reading your 
comments and taking apart the bear traps to make sure they were properly 
greased and tightened (full disclosure this is the first pedal I take apart):
I found this video from Ron: https://youtu.be/sjGrbm2XxhM - take a look at 
minute 5:10 - mine definitely don't spin like that, but I'm not sure why, maybe 
they'll get smoother with use, since these are brand new out of the box.

It does seem like Simworks Bubbly & sealed cartridge will feel way smoother 
than Bear Traps period, but that might not translate to any improved feeling 
when pedaling. Also, the consensus is that Bear Traps are ok/good pedals.
Thanks again, I'll install them and see how they feel.
Max
On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 9:29:22 AM UTC-5 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

The bear trap will get smoother over time but never match the Bubbly, the 
Bubbly is the smoothest pedal I’ve ever seen. I prefer the larger platform of 
the Bubbly (they are on my commuter) but haven’t bought a set to replace my 
bear trap pedals on my Susie. Nothing wrong with the bear traps at all. 

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 1:49:46 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:

Max,  your description sounds like they may be adjusted too tight, and/or 
you're simply noticing a difference between the open and cartridge bearings. 
Most pedals that I've owned didn't come with much grease either. More 
grease until it oozes out the sides !  Then make sure the bearing isn't 
loaded too much. Pedals from the factory are no guarantee of proper adjustment, 
not unlike Shimano hubs. 
As for the ability to spin, as long as it spins freely, it'll spin freely. 
Don't bother comparing the "feel" to cartridge bearing hubs because they're not 
cartridge bearings in the hubs. Neither bearing type means one will spin better 
or worse than the other.On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 1:50:12 AM UTC-5 Luke 
Hendrickson wrote:

I have the OG Suntours and they spin for days. Get a rebuilt pair plus add some 
vintage charm!

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 7:22:36 PM UTC-8 Jared Wilson wrote:

Hey Max,
Can't speak to the "why" aspect, but you're not crazy in your observation.
We have (3) pairs of the BL BT III and (1) pair of the Bubbly pedals and 
they're not in the same category. Not to say there's anything wrong with the 
Bear Traps, but the Bubbly pedals are on an entirely different level.
That said, either option good and you shouldn't regret your decision, you did 
what works for the time being and maybe later on down the road you get to try 
the alternative, but I wouldn't dwell on it all that much.
Jared in SLO
On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 7:05:10 PM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

Hi Everyone,
I decided to get new pedals for the bike I'm building. First I went to my LBS 
(Cambridge Bicycles) and they suggested the Simworks Bubbly pedals - I really 
liked the spin on them and the looks, but unfortunately they only had the 
olives in stock. They sent me to the Simworks website, but the polished were 
sold out. (Their next order was going to be in about a month at best)
Reading through the forum I saw good comments on the Blue Lug Bear Trap III and 
ordered them in silver. 
They arrived today and I'm surprised because they feel much less smooth than 
the bubbly ones. To be fair they are much less expensive $62 vs $100 but still, 
is this normal?
Is it the lack of sealed bearings that affects rotational performance?
Will I feel a real difference if I go with one over the other?
Thanks for your opinions and knowledge.
Max in Boston






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Re: [RBW] Re: What's Good - Wide-ish/flared drops edition...

2022-12-09 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 I'm for extra width...
But I don't like the idea of flare occurring from tops to bottoms because it 
puts the hoods/lever tips pointing outward. I don't totally get the true 
functional value of flaring other than bottoms are wider than tops? Is that 
helpful from a functional perspective?
Help me out here?

Scott

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 01:25:10 PM MST, Rusty Click 
 wrote:  
 
 Plus one for the Spank Flare.

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 9:36:15 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey everyone!I posted earlier about reach in converting to a wider bar and 
decided to start a different conversation to get opinions on wide-ish, flared 
drops.
I like the Nitto Noodle quite well, but I think I do want a little flare and I 
don't want to bend them myself. So what's good out there? I'm tempted by the 
Crust Towel Rack, but I'd love to hear what you all like.
If it helps/matters, the kind of riding I do with the bike it's going is casual 
rails-to-trails, some rolling gravel roads, but nothing too technical or 
serious.
Thanks!Ben


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Re: [RBW] Gus & Susie frames available at Crust

2022-12-09 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 The Gus XL orange has sold...TO ME!
Thanks for posting, Eric! What a lead on a Friday afternoon. Christmas came a 
few weeks early
Scott with smile

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 04:27:11 PM MST, Eric Marth 
 wrote:  
 
 If anyone missed out Crust just stocked Gus & Susie frames. They got just one 
frame in each size/color combo. 
https://crustbikes.com/products/rivendell-gus-boots-susie-longbolts


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Re: [RBW] Gus & Susie frames available at Crust

2022-12-09 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Missed out from when? Last batch was when, last year? Was there a recent dump 
from Riv? Tell me I didn't miss a recent sale from Riv?

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 04:27:11 PM MST, Eric Marth 
 wrote:  
 
 If anyone missed out Crust just stocked Gus & Susie frames. They got just one 
frame in each size/color combo. 
https://crustbikes.com/products/rivendell-gus-boots-susie-longbolts


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Re: [RBW] If you convince Rivendell to bring back "one" former model

2022-12-08 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 I vote long stay version of Glorious and Hunqapillar in CLEAR COAT...
I hope Grant is listening

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 03:11:33 PM MST, Mackenzy Albright 
 wrote:  
 
 All these threads about "choosing the one Riv" or "how do I pick which model" 
got me thinking. If you could convince Rivendell to resurrect one out of 
production modelwhich would you choose? 
After acquiring a Clementine after a new Clem Smith Jr, I see merit of the 
geometry of the Clementine as a standalone step through that feels like a long 
wheelbase agile bike rather than a floaty surfboard. I absolutely adore 
both-but they're extraordinarily different, despite being a natural and logical 
evolution. I really enjoyed the reference of the thread "a tale of two clems" 
by Ding Ding! as I found similarities in my experience. 
The evolution of Rivendell's is absolutely fascinating to me as there has never 
been a hang up for changing tried and true models. XO-1 - ALL Rounder - TOYO 
Atlantis - MUSA Atlantis - MIT Atlantis. People are still obsessive with each 
rendition of a concept over its evolution. 

SOoo long story short. I would choose the Hunqapillar. Hands down. 

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Re: [RBW] Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-08 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Conway, thanks for the tip.
I just looked, and those Ride Farr drops are Supa-Wide...up to 750 mm!
Ima get one on the shipping truck, in addition to the RH Randonneur I ordered 
prior to reading your post. Options are good, usually. Sometimes I plex too 
much on options...haha.
Onward,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 10:20:38 AM MST, Conway Bennett 
 wrote:  
 
 I switched to the 31.8 faceplate ecosystem and gave been flirting with the 
Ride Farr Supa-Wide by Nitto.

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 10:34:10 AM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

 Steve,
Are you in same position I am, looking for a 31.8 drop?
Did you see the RH Maes Parallel on the their site?
Thoughts?!
Has anyone else tried the RH Randonneur or Maes Parallel? Takes, please?
Best,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 05:37:57 AM MST, Steven Sweedler 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott, yesterday on the Bob list I asked about comparisons of the Noodle and 
the RH Randonneur bar that comes in 31.8. The two responders liked both bars 
and had used them for years. Steve
On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 10:07 PM 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott


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Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-08 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Steve,
Are you in same position I am, looking for a 31.8 drop?
Did you see the RH Maes Parallel on the their site?
Thoughts?!
Has anyone else tried the RH Randonneur or Maes Parallel? Takes, please?
Best,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 05:37:57 AM MST, Steven Sweedler 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott, yesterday on the Bob list I asked about comparisons of the Noodle and 
the RH Randonneur bar that comes in 31.8. The two responders liked both bars 
and had used them for years. Steve
On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 10:07 PM 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott


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Steven Sweedler
Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-08 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Joe,
Thanks for the info, always welcome...
Scott

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 11:20:50 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 They're kinda fiddly but not too bad with an open face stem. I've used the old 
Nitto shims with the squared sharp edges in traditional Technomics/Tallux and 
whatnot and...never again! 

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 10:06:06 PM UTC-8 zem...@gmail.com wrote:

Agree with Joe. The best 31.8 noodle is a noodle with a shim :)

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 12:55:54 AM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

Thanks, Joe! I'll check out the doohickey...

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 


  On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 9:03 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:  

This doohickey works. I have one in a SOMA open stem holding a 25.4 Billie Bar, 
just make sure you pick the 26.0 version for Noodles. 
Riv only seems to have them in black and it's kind of annoying on my stem cuz 
the face plate has a big-old hole in the front where you can see the shim, but 
the Nitto Face Plater doesn't have that. Maybe someone else sells a silver 
shim. 
https://www.rivbike.com/products/aluminum-handlebar-shim-25-4-or-26-0-to-31-8-wheels-manufacturing

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 7:07:49 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott





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Re: [RBW] Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-08 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Steve,
Thank you! That's exactly the kind of direction I was looking for. I'll have a 
look at the RH Randonneur as a 31.8 option.
Happy Holidays,
Scott

On Thursday, December 8, 2022 at 05:37:57 AM MST, Steven Sweedler 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott, yesterday on the Bob list I asked about comparisons of the Noodle and 
the RH Randonneur bar that comes in 31.8. The two responders liked both bars 
and had used them for years. Steve
On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 10:07 PM 'Scott' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott


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Plymouth, New Hampshire

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is there a 31.8 clamp drop bar comparable to a Nitto Noodle 54cm?

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Thanks, Joe! I'll check out the doohickey...

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Dec 7, 2022 at 9:03 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:   
This doohickey works. I have one in a SOMA open stem holding a 25.4 Billie Bar, 
just make sure you pick the 26.0 version for Noodles. 
Riv only seems to have them in black and it's kind of annoying on my stem cuz 
the face plate has a big-old hole in the front where you can see the shim, but 
the Nitto Face Plater doesn't have that. Maybe someone else sells a silver 
shim. 
https://www.rivbike.com/products/aluminum-handlebar-shim-25-4-or-26-0-to-31-8-wheels-manufacturing

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 7:07:49 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

Hey, all:
I'm wanting to try a 54cm Nitto Noodle drop, but I want to keep my 31.8 
Faceplater to facilitate cockpit changes.

Anyone know of a comparable bar or solution? Maybe I should just get a Noodle 
and stem for change outs...
Also, am I on the right track going with a Noodle (54cm cuz I'm tall)? I plan 
on using it as a cockpit option for my Atlantis build.

Happy Holidays,
Scott



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Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Shoji,
Thank you for educating me on Atlantis history and sharing the article...much 
appreciated!
Scott

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 11:02:01 AM MST, Shoji Takahashi 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott,"Atlantis 2" on Rivendell's model is because Bridgestone had an 
"Atlantis" model, designed by Hiro Watanabe. 
You can read about it in RR35 available here: http://notfine.com/rivreader/
ThanksShojiArlington MA


On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 12:19:56 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

 Affectionately acknowledged, Max. Ride on...

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 10:15:44 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott et al - 
correction - sorry, the saddle on the Atlantis is an SMP Avant:
https://www.performancebike.com/selle-smp-avant-saddle-black-aisi-304-rails-154mm-zstrikeamne/p1262159?v=531971=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0C4B_hvbJZzbo7h6LftzDSyVysuuUTlKKqOM_1-J5mYoAJjo7O4FOEaAta9EALw_wcB
It doesn't look as nice as the Selle Anatomica, but I switched a number of 
bikes over to the SMP Avant split-seat in my post-cancer life.  (I don't 
usually mention that, but it's no big deal and I'm figuring a number of us have 
had to accomodate our bikes and components for all kinds of medical reasons as 
we get older.  E.g., cross levers for old arthritic neck, split-saddles for 
post-surgical comfort.)
Best
Max BSanta Rosa

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 9:04:27 AM UTC-8 reynoldslugs wrote:

Mon Cher Scott:
That's my Atlantis, yes.  It's one of the originals, I think I bought it from 
Rivendell in 2003.  I am not sure if that makes it a Toyo or something else, 
but I guess Toyo.
The saddle is a Selle Anatomica:
 
https://selleanatomica.com/products/x1?currency=USD=26447320072_medium=cpc_source=google_campaign=Google%20Shopping=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0DMPdR14gbzi7T9zEFYIZ9F08qIQgL-wwcThaZvwO5jRqNN3IPjFhgaAqUhEALw_wcB
As for the cockpit, those are regular in-line Paul Cross levers on the 
handlebars:
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/brake-levers/inline/cross-lever/

My reasoning - i.e.,  the experience that led me to start putting  in-line 
cross levers on my bikes comes from long rides with long downhills.   After six 
hours or so of riding, they provide a comfortable alternative to braking in the 
drops.  When I'm tired, I like to have hand-position options for the Pine Flat 
Rd  descent (3,000' descent), or one of the other hills around here.
Best,Max BSanta Rosa CAOn Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 8:47:53 AM UTC-8 Scott 
wrote:

 Max:
I've wiped the drool from my chin and have a few questions about the Atlantis, 
please. I assume it's yours.

Is it a Toyo model (I don't get the Atlantis squared decal on downtube and the 
downtube shifter bosses)?
What saddle is that?!
Can you speak to and describe your cockpit and reasoning behind it, namely the 
multiple brake levers (is one a pass-through/slave)?
Happy Holidays, all!
Scott



On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 08:23:30 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Well, I'd choose this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157696979339224

and that:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157645542691980

Legolas - fast and fun, light.  Always makes me happy.Atlantis - same but more 
rock solid.
My favorite bike... is whichever one I'm riding at the moment.
Happy Holidays everyone, stay safeMax BeachSanta Rosa CAOn Tuesday, December 6, 
2022 at 12:30:49 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Hey Masa!
This is a cool companion to the occasional One Riv To Rule Them All threads we 
do around here. 
I'm currently a one Riv (and one folding bike) person, my custom is a 
low-stepover kinda-pavement-oriented bike like your Platypus: It'll go just 
about anywhere but wasn't designed for hardcore off-road riding or full-on 
touring loads. I've done some shopping runs on it that I could feel in the 
frame was probably pushing my luck with how much weight I was carrying, so for 
me my second Riv would be heavier duty. I've also recently moved to an area 
with a bunch of fire roads and singletrack, and although my riding 
interests/capabilities would preclude major mountain biking escapades I'd still 
like to know my frame could take the abuse. 
So I'd reach as far from my lightish roadish frame as possible, which takes me 
past the lugged frames and into Clem or Gus territory. What I end up with - 
if/when I decide to do it - would depend largely on money and opportunity to 
pick something up. I really like the Gus but they're pricey even used and 
rarely available; Clems are great and easier to find. I've owned a few and 
imagine I'll have one again sometime. 
I hope this was helpful for you. I saw on another thread that you asked Leah 
for a comparison of her Platy(s) and Clem L, I hope she chimes in here, she has 
much to say and says it well! 
Joe Bernard 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:52:42 PM UTC-8 Masa wrote:

Hi all, I would like to ask you how you would choose 2 Rivendells if you could 
own.
Which models? What kind of purposes? What kind of 

Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Affectionately acknowledged, Max. Ride on...

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 10:15:44 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott et al - 
correction - sorry, the saddle on the Atlantis is an SMP Avant:
https://www.performancebike.com/selle-smp-avant-saddle-black-aisi-304-rails-154mm-zstrikeamne/p1262159?v=531971=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0C4B_hvbJZzbo7h6LftzDSyVysuuUTlKKqOM_1-J5mYoAJjo7O4FOEaAta9EALw_wcB
It doesn't look as nice as the Selle Anatomica, but I switched a number of 
bikes over to the SMP Avant split-seat in my post-cancer life.  (I don't 
usually mention that, but it's no big deal and I'm figuring a number of us have 
had to accomodate our bikes and components for all kinds of medical reasons as 
we get older.  E.g., cross levers for old arthritic neck, split-saddles for 
post-surgical comfort.)
Best
Max BSanta Rosa

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 9:04:27 AM UTC-8 reynoldslugs wrote:

Mon Cher Scott:
That's my Atlantis, yes.  It's one of the originals, I think I bought it from 
Rivendell in 2003.  I am not sure if that makes it a Toyo or something else, 
but I guess Toyo.
The saddle is a Selle Anatomica:
 
https://selleanatomica.com/products/x1?currency=USD=26447320072_medium=cpc_source=google_campaign=Google%20Shopping=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0DMPdR14gbzi7T9zEFYIZ9F08qIQgL-wwcThaZvwO5jRqNN3IPjFhgaAqUhEALw_wcB
As for the cockpit, those are regular in-line Paul Cross levers on the 
handlebars:
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/brake-levers/inline/cross-lever/

My reasoning - i.e.,  the experience that led me to start putting  in-line 
cross levers on my bikes comes from long rides with long downhills.   After six 
hours or so of riding, they provide a comfortable alternative to braking in the 
drops.  When I'm tired, I like to have hand-position options for the Pine Flat 
Rd  descent (3,000' descent), or one of the other hills around here.
Best,Max BSanta Rosa CAOn Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 8:47:53 AM UTC-8 Scott 
wrote:

 Max:
I've wiped the drool from my chin and have a few questions about the Atlantis, 
please. I assume it's yours.

Is it a Toyo model (I don't get the Atlantis squared decal on downtube and the 
downtube shifter bosses)?
What saddle is that?!
Can you speak to and describe your cockpit and reasoning behind it, namely the 
multiple brake levers (is one a pass-through/slave)?
Happy Holidays, all!
Scott



On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 08:23:30 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Well, I'd choose this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157696979339224

and that:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157645542691980

Legolas - fast and fun, light.  Always makes me happy.Atlantis - same but more 
rock solid.
My favorite bike... is whichever one I'm riding at the moment.
Happy Holidays everyone, stay safeMax BeachSanta Rosa CAOn Tuesday, December 6, 
2022 at 12:30:49 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Hey Masa!
This is a cool companion to the occasional One Riv To Rule Them All threads we 
do around here. 
I'm currently a one Riv (and one folding bike) person, my custom is a 
low-stepover kinda-pavement-oriented bike like your Platypus: It'll go just 
about anywhere but wasn't designed for hardcore off-road riding or full-on 
touring loads. I've done some shopping runs on it that I could feel in the 
frame was probably pushing my luck with how much weight I was carrying, so for 
me my second Riv would be heavier duty. I've also recently moved to an area 
with a bunch of fire roads and singletrack, and although my riding 
interests/capabilities would preclude major mountain biking escapades I'd still 
like to know my frame could take the abuse. 
So I'd reach as far from my lightish roadish frame as possible, which takes me 
past the lugged frames and into Clem or Gus territory. What I end up with - 
if/when I decide to do it - would depend largely on money and opportunity to 
pick something up. I really like the Gus but they're pricey even used and 
rarely available; Clems are great and easier to find. I've owned a few and 
imagine I'll have one again sometime. 
I hope this was helpful for you. I saw on another thread that you asked Leah 
for a comparison of her Platy(s) and Clem L, I hope she chimes in here, she has 
much to say and says it well! 
Joe Bernard 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:52:42 PM UTC-8 Masa wrote:

Hi all, I would like to ask you how you would choose 2 Rivendells if you could 
own.
Which models? What kind of purposes? What kind of weather? What kind of roads? 
Any definition is welcome.
I'm currently riding a Platypus and I feel like I can ride it everywhere for 
any purpose as Riv says it's an All-rounder so I just would like to know how 
you would add one more Riv or how you are riding 2 Rivs already as a reference 
(possibly for my future 2nd Riv).
I hope you enjoy the topic!
Masa






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To 

Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Max, splendid!
I bought an Atlantis f/f from Riv last month and have a build in progress, so 
I've been vacuuming-up build directions/options/possibilities. And thanks for 
the reasoning behind your cockpit design...creative and functional.

Thanks for the dirt!
Scott 



On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 10:04:33 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Mon Cher Scott:
That's my Atlantis, yes.  It's one of the originals, I think I bought it from 
Rivendell in 2003.  I am not sure if that makes it a Toyo or something else, 
but I guess Toyo.
The saddle is a Selle Anatomica:
 
https://selleanatomica.com/products/x1?currency=USD=26447320072_medium=cpc_source=google_campaign=Google%20Shopping=Cj0KCQiAkMGcBhCSARIsAIW6d0DMPdR14gbzi7T9zEFYIZ9F08qIQgL-wwcThaZvwO5jRqNN3IPjFhgaAqUhEALw_wcB
As for the cockpit, those are regular in-line Paul Cross levers on the 
handlebars:
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/brake-levers/inline/cross-lever/

My reasoning - i.e.,  the experience that led me to start putting  in-line 
cross levers on my bikes comes from long rides with long downhills.   After six 
hours or so of riding, they provide a comfortable alternative to braking in the 
drops.  When I'm tired, I like to have hand-position options for the Pine Flat 
Rd  descent (3,000' descent), or one of the other hills around here.
Best,Max BSanta Rosa CAOn Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 8:47:53 AM UTC-8 Scott 
wrote:

 Max:
I've wiped the drool from my chin and have a few questions about the Atlantis, 
please. I assume it's yours.

Is it a Toyo model (I don't get the Atlantis squared decal on downtube and the 
downtube shifter bosses)?
What saddle is that?!
Can you speak to and describe your cockpit and reasoning behind it, namely the 
multiple brake levers (is one a pass-through/slave)?
Happy Holidays, all!
Scott



On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 08:23:30 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Well, I'd choose this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157696979339224

and that:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157645542691980

Legolas - fast and fun, light.  Always makes me happy.Atlantis - same but more 
rock solid.
My favorite bike... is whichever one I'm riding at the moment.
Happy Holidays everyone, stay safeMax BeachSanta Rosa CAOn Tuesday, December 6, 
2022 at 12:30:49 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Hey Masa!
This is a cool companion to the occasional One Riv To Rule Them All threads we 
do around here. 
I'm currently a one Riv (and one folding bike) person, my custom is a 
low-stepover kinda-pavement-oriented bike like your Platypus: It'll go just 
about anywhere but wasn't designed for hardcore off-road riding or full-on 
touring loads. I've done some shopping runs on it that I could feel in the 
frame was probably pushing my luck with how much weight I was carrying, so for 
me my second Riv would be heavier duty. I've also recently moved to an area 
with a bunch of fire roads and singletrack, and although my riding 
interests/capabilities would preclude major mountain biking escapades I'd still 
like to know my frame could take the abuse. 
So I'd reach as far from my lightish roadish frame as possible, which takes me 
past the lugged frames and into Clem or Gus territory. What I end up with - 
if/when I decide to do it - would depend largely on money and opportunity to 
pick something up. I really like the Gus but they're pricey even used and 
rarely available; Clems are great and easier to find. I've owned a few and 
imagine I'll have one again sometime. 
I hope this was helpful for you. I saw on another thread that you asked Leah 
for a comparison of her Platy(s) and Clem L, I hope she chimes in here, she has 
much to say and says it well! 
Joe Bernard 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:52:42 PM UTC-8 Masa wrote:

Hi all, I would like to ask you how you would choose 2 Rivendells if you could 
own.
Which models? What kind of purposes? What kind of weather? What kind of roads? 
Any definition is welcome.
I'm currently riding a Platypus and I feel like I can ride it everywhere for 
any purpose as Riv says it's an All-rounder so I just would like to know how 
you would add one more Riv or how you are riding 2 Rivs already as a reference 
(possibly for my future 2nd Riv).
I hope you enjoy the topic!
Masa






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Re: [RBW] Stolen 58cm Rivendell Atlantis - Berkeley

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Oh, Dave! I'm so sorry, man.
I hope you get it back. All here feel your pain I'm sure.
Speechless...that just sucks.

On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 09:38:07 AM MST, Dave  
wrote:  
 
 Hello, 
My 58cm Atlantis was stolen from my front porch yesterday afternoon, near UC 
Berkeley. 
I can't find a picture of the current build, however:It is notable for the 
Nitto Bullmoose Bars and silver Pletscher rear rack. At the time of theft it 
also had fenders, a mini front rack + basket, sackville panniers, and lights. 
It is a standard, green 58cm Toyo Atlantis from around 2005.. 
If you have any leads please let me know. 
Best, .Dave 

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Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Max:
I've wiped the drool from my chin and have a few questions about the Atlantis, 
please. I assume it's yours.

Is it a Toyo model (I don't get the Atlantis squared decal on downtube and the 
downtube shifter bosses)?
What saddle is that?!
Can you speak to and describe your cockpit and reasoning behind it, namely the 
multiple brake levers (is one a pass-through/slave)?
Happy Holidays, all!
Scott



On Wednesday, December 7, 2022 at 08:23:30 AM MST, reynoldslugs 
 wrote:  
 
 Well, I'd choose this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157696979339224

and that:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157645542691980

Legolas - fast and fun, light.  Always makes me happy.Atlantis - same but more 
rock solid.
My favorite bike... is whichever one I'm riding at the moment.
Happy Holidays everyone, stay safeMax BeachSanta Rosa CAOn Tuesday, December 6, 
2022 at 12:30:49 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Hey Masa!
This is a cool companion to the occasional One Riv To Rule Them All threads we 
do around here. 
I'm currently a one Riv (and one folding bike) person, my custom is a 
low-stepover kinda-pavement-oriented bike like your Platypus: It'll go just 
about anywhere but wasn't designed for hardcore off-road riding or full-on 
touring loads. I've done some shopping runs on it that I could feel in the 
frame was probably pushing my luck with how much weight I was carrying, so for 
me my second Riv would be heavier duty. I've also recently moved to an area 
with a bunch of fire roads and singletrack, and although my riding 
interests/capabilities would preclude major mountain biking escapades I'd still 
like to know my frame could take the abuse. 
So I'd reach as far from my lightish roadish frame as possible, which takes me 
past the lugged frames and into Clem or Gus territory. What I end up with - 
if/when I decide to do it - would depend largely on money and opportunity to 
pick something up. I really like the Gus but they're pricey even used and 
rarely available; Clems are great and easier to find. I've owned a few and 
imagine I'll have one again sometime. 
I hope this was helpful for you. I saw on another thread that you asked Leah 
for a comparison of her Platy(s) and Clem L, I hope she chimes in here, she has 
much to say and says it well! 
Joe Bernard 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:52:42 PM UTC-8 Masa wrote:

Hi all, I would like to ask you how you would choose 2 Rivendells if you could 
own.
Which models? What kind of purposes? What kind of weather? What kind of roads? 
Any definition is welcome.
I'm currently riding a Platypus and I feel like I can ride it everywhere for 
any purpose as Riv says it's an All-rounder so I just would like to know how 
you would add one more Riv or how you are riding 2 Rivs already as a reference 
(possibly for my future 2nd Riv).
I hope you enjoy the topic!
Masa






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Re: [RBW] Re: How you choose 2 Rivendells?

2022-12-06 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Hey, Luke:
Please forgive off thread topic question but what cantilevers are you running 
that allows you to run a 2.4 on your MIT Atlantis. I'm building one now and 
part of my decision to get an MIT Atlantis was seeing on Riv's website the 
ability to run a 2.4 "comfortably." I called Riv to ask about 2.4 clearance, 
and Will was gracious enough to fit a set of 2.4 front and rear and get back to 
me with his findings. He said there was a bit more room out back, about 5 mm of 
clearance between tire and stay, and a little less room up front, about 3 mm of 
clearance. Surfing the Riv site the other day, I see they changed in the bike's 
description for tire clearance from 2.4 to 2.3.
Please share your thoughts on brakes choice and tire clearance.
Thanks so much,
Scott

On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 01:06:58 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:  
 
 
Hey Masa!
Great question. I currently have a MIT Atlantis set up with cantilevers and a 
rack and larger Maxxis tires (29” x 2.4” in the front and 29” x 2.3” in the 
rear). I’ve found that it’s a pleasurable upright cruiser around San Francisco, 
a real ripper on mtb trails in Marin, and a wonderful commuter. I believe that 
it would fender rather well and be a great bike to do some randonneuring as 
well. The main reason I would get another Riv would be to keep thus bike as-is 
rather than changing it each time I wanted to do more road-ish riding with 
fenders. Then again, fenders and a tire change/second wheelset would solve 
that. 
I have been anxiously awaiting the next lugged iteration of the Roadini. I 
tried Will’s out not long after this last batch and it was a smooth and stable 
bike. Nimble and grounded while being zippy, I immediately wanted to build up a 
road bike around that frame. As is, I’m going to wait it out for the next batch 
of them and see how I feel then.On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:52:42 PM UTC-8 
Masa wrote:

Hi all, I would like to ask you how you would choose 2 Rivendells if you could 
own.
Which models? What kind of purposes? What kind of weather? What kind of roads? 
Any definition is welcome.
I'm currently riding a Platypus and I feel like I can ride it everywhere for 
any purpose as Riv says it's an All-rounder so I just would like to know how 
you would add one more Riv or how you are riding 2 Rivs already as a reference 
(possibly for my future 2nd Riv).
I hope you enjoy the topic!
Masa





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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Purple Prose

2022-12-05 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 I was pulling your pant leg...yank, yank

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 08:16:40 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 Most Riv owners know this site, I imagine he's seen the thread. 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 7:03:28 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

 Joe told him!

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 08:00:25 PM MST, Matthew Williams 
 wrote:  
 
  . . . and the ad’s been deleted.
Wonder if he sold it, if he found our discussion, or both.



On Dec 5, 2022, at 6:48 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:
 I don't have it in me to sell a bike with such a notable history like the 
damage to that one and not candidly disclose it.
Maybe it was an unintentional oversight, but the ad language seemed to preempt 
more to come. My antenna went up, anyways.
Happy Holidays everyone!!!
I love my country...
Scott in frozen ground Montana

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 07:16:44 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 It wasn't me! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Someone must have contacted the seller. The ad has been updated:
"This bike is overall in great shape with just a few nicks and scratches but 
please note that during transport the rear steel seat stay was bent, but a very 
reputable local frame builder realigned/bent it back and fixed it."






On Dec 5, 2022, at 1:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:


"A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage.."
Well that's one way to put it! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 12:18:45 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Here are some more photos. I couldn't get the fork to lie flat but I tried to 
capture the bent ends.
With regards to, "how do you know it's the same bike?" Well, I owned it. I know 
it the same way you know your own bike. I recognized it from the original ad 
photos from when I bought it, and from when I unpacked it, and from the build 
components, and from the touch-up paint on the fork, and the chainstay wrap, 
and from the month I stared at it behind my desk while I waited for BikeFlights 
to process my claim, and from the seller's confirmation he obtained the bike 
from the non-profit to which I sent it.



Photo from the original ad when I bought the bike, and the recent CL ad. Note 
the touchup paint on the fork.




 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Best saddle for very upright posture?

2022-12-05 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Kim,
I listed here for sale a black Selle Anatomica H-2 in mint condition.
I'm in no hurry to sell it. If you want to PM me, I'd be happy to send it to 
you as a loaner to try as a baseline. Maybe trying it for a spell would help 
you refine your saddle search.

Scott



On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 08:09:30 PM MST, J S  
wrote:  
 
 Kim, I tried the Selle and within a few rides the saddle was loosing all shape 
and I would have needed to tighten it.  I thought that was a bit too quick so 
it went back.  It was not the H but the model just before it in their lineup,  
but I am only about 145 pounds.     
On Mon, Dec 5, 2022 at 9:36 PM Kim Hetzel  wrote:

I have a Brooks B67S saddle that I have had for sometime between two other 
bikes. It is fairly broken in.  I like the short nose on it. 
I own a 2021 59cm Clem Smith Jr. "L".   It has become futile finding a seat 
post with sufficient setback, that measures 29.8mm.  I have been riding on 
rivets. 
I have moved forward recently in getting the right shim to accept a 27.2mm seat 
post. Good news is the used PAUL Tall and Handsome post is coming in the mail 
tomorrow. With great hope, my problems will be solved with sufficient setback. 
I am considering on the back burner as future purchase of a Selle Anatomica H-1 
saddle for more of a comfortable ride. 

Has anyone used one of the Selle Anatomica saddles for upright riding ?  If so, 
what is your experience ?

Kim (boney butt) HetzelYelm, WA.


On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 11:47:35 AM UTC-8 schralp wrote:

I just went through all of the Brooks iterations over the last 3 months for my 
Platypus. I found B67 was the right seat for my posture and rear. Flyer not 
flat enough, flyer carved pinches areas that shouldn't be pinched, B17 also not 
flat enough and my old Professional definitely not comfortable for upright 
riding. YMMV but I find the flat rear section perfect for upright riding and 
get no impingement on the hamstrings on the downstroke. The springs provide 
just enough give rocking back and forth at my weight (175#) but do not dampen 
much vibration. Hope that helps.

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 5:06:28 PM UTC-7 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:

Sort of like the Sheldon Brown technique for breaking in a B 17 years ago by 
soaking it in oil. I only did that once...

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 11:26:43 AM UTC-4 pa...@superplastic.co wrote:

After a lot of testing I've come around to loving my Berthold Mente!! I have 
two.
I dunked it in water and covered it with saddle grease to break it in fast, 
however.

On Thursday, October 15, 2020 at 8:44:41 PM UTC-4 velomann wrote:

I personally find springs superfluous, maybe because I'm light and they don't 
seem to do much except add weight and squeak.  For the BEST upright saddle I'm 
always on the lookout for increasingly rare B-68s. The Holy Grail of upright 
saddles (to me) would be finding a B-68 Imperial.
Michael M

On Tuesday, October 13, 2020 at 4:42:42 AM UTC-7 Jesse Stoddard wrote:

What I really want is a sprung Brooks, but I'm not heavy enough to actuate the 
springs. Can't afford a Berthoud.
The only other option I know of is the Rivet Loveland, which I've heard is 
excellent quality.
Anything else to consider?






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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Purple Prose

2022-12-05 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Joe told him!

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 08:00:25 PM MST, Matthew Williams 
 wrote:  
 
  . . . and the ad’s been deleted.
Wonder if he sold it, if he found our discussion, or both.



On Dec 5, 2022, at 6:48 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:
 I don't have it in me to sell a bike with such a notable history like the 
damage to that one and not candidly disclose it.
Maybe it was an unintentional oversight, but the ad language seemed to preempt 
more to come. My antenna went up, anyways.
Happy Holidays everyone!!!
I love my country...
Scott in frozen ground Montana

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 07:16:44 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 It wasn't me! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Someone must have contacted the seller. The ad has been updated:
"This bike is overall in great shape with just a few nicks and scratches but 
please note that during transport the rear steel seat stay was bent, but a very 
reputable local frame builder realigned/bent it back and fixed it."






On Dec 5, 2022, at 1:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:


"A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage.."
Well that's one way to put it! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 12:18:45 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Here are some more photos. I couldn't get the fork to lie flat but I tried to 
capture the bent ends.
With regards to, "how do you know it's the same bike?" Well, I owned it. I know 
it the same way you know your own bike. I recognized it from the original ad 
photos from when I bought it, and from when I unpacked it, and from the build 
components, and from the touch-up paint on the fork, and the chainstay wrap, 
and from the month I stared at it behind my desk while I waited for BikeFlights 
to process my claim, and from the seller's confirmation he obtained the bike 
from the non-profit to which I sent it.



Photo from the original ad when I bought the bike, and the recent CL ad. Note 
the touchup paint on the fork.




 



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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Purple Prose

2022-12-05 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 I don't have it in me to sell a bike with such a notable history like the 
damage to that one and not candidly disclose it.
Maybe it was an unintentional oversight, but the ad language seemed to preempt 
more to come. My antenna went up, anyways.
Happy Holidays everyone!!!
I love my country...
Scott in frozen ground Montana

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 07:16:44 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 It wasn't me! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Someone must have contacted the seller. The ad has been updated:
"This bike is overall in great shape with just a few nicks and scratches but 
please note that during transport the rear steel seat stay was bent, but a very 
reputable local frame builder realigned/bent it back and fixed it."






On Dec 5, 2022, at 1:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:


"A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage.."
Well that's one way to put it! 

On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 12:18:45 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

Here are some more photos. I couldn't get the fork to lie flat but I tried to 
capture the bent ends.
With regards to, "how do you know it's the same bike?" Well, I owned it. I know 
it the same way you know your own bike. I recognized it from the original ad 
photos from when I bought it, and from when I unpacked it, and from the build 
components, and from the touch-up paint on the fork, and the chainstay wrap, 
and from the month I stared at it behind my desk while I waited for BikeFlights 
to process my claim, and from the seller's confirmation he obtained the bike 
from the non-profit to which I sent it.



Photo from the original ad when I bought the bike, and the recent CL ad. Note 
the touchup paint on the fork.




 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa Purple Prose

2022-12-04 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
LOL, Joe!!!

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Dec 4, 2022 at 7:39 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:   
Needs more tags. 

On Sunday, December 4, 2022 at 6:36:13 PM UTC-8 Philip Williamson wrote:


Presented without commentary. SFBay Craigslist ad: 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/alameda-59-60cm-rivendell-joe-appaloosa/7557541510.html
Fully quotated for posterity: “Hi, up for sale is a buttery scrumptious mustard 
cream super hero bike turned fast sold out Rivendell classic. It’s like the 
cosmic cool standout relative or friend that you just want to always be around. 
A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage but overall in great 
shape. It is size 60cm that I measure the toptube at 59cm (center to top) and 
toptube 59.5 center to center; it has 700c wheels and built light on the feet 
tho like a frickin tank. Great ride that eats up and then smiles on all 
terrains.

“If the Greek god Zeus rode a touring bike, it’d be a Rivendell and most 
likely, it’d be a Joe Appaloosa. Rivendell is straight forward with the Joe 
Appaloosa. First off, it’s named after a rather unique breed of horse, then, 
they took their two most famous touring bikes, the Sam Hillborne and the 
Hunqapillar, combined them and made one bad-ass road touring bike. These bikes 
are confidence-inspiring works of art, chiseled from stone and as timeless, or 
legendary as mythology. Ok, maybe that was too much… They’re just damn sexy!

“Those frames scream fully-loaded confidence with a fist-sized gap between the 
rear tire and seat tube, ensuring that even if you want to dive into a turn, 
this frame will take its own, secure and smooth line. Which is great for a 
touring or city bike. Loaded on descents, this long wheelbase makes for a 
predictable and comfortable ride.

“Or, to be more concise, the Appaloosa is:

“It’s not for stunts, boulder-bouncing, or loaded expeditionary off-road 
touring, but as a trail bike for sober non-yahoos who weigh less than 215lb, 
it’s ideal, perfect.. That 215lb isn’t a scientifically-derived number, just a 
hipshot suggestion based on the Joe having a heavier fork than Sam’s and 
lighter one than Hunqapillar’s.”

“For $2,250 complete, this bike could be yours and you’d have one of the most 
incredible looking touring and town bikes around. Why so much $ you may 
ask-Well this bike rocks and last one that sold on EBAY WENT FOR $4,000, tho 
admittedly a little better better components. 

“Find out more about this ride on Rivendell’s website or other online blogs. Or 
at the Rivendell Bicycle Works Fleet Headquarters in Walnut Creek

“Tags: Touring, Track, bmx, 6ku, golden, Mercier, Aventon, all city shinola, 
wabi harry bullitt, cruiser, womens, girls, mens, boys, Yeti, specilized, Santa 
Cruz, carbon, Rocky Mountain, 27.5, 29, trek, diamondback, norco, full 
suspension Trek Pivot cannondale Giant yeti Santa Cruz Bulls Riese Muller 
Haibike izip Focus KTM shimano fox powerfly Vado Como Pedego Elevate Sonders 
full-e Canyon rocky mountain Kenevo Bmc nomad bronsen Stumpjumper camber Levo 
Diamondback scott kona Trance remedy fuel slash anthem stance demo enduro reign 
Sram one by campy demo downhill trail 29 29er 650b 27.5 26 yamaha Levo Creo 
Enduro Specialized MTB Ebike e-bike eMTB E-mtb 700c carbon 9r 10r 11r 
specialized hotrock riprock hardtail crosstrail ariel sirrus vita slope 
slopestyle dirt jumper dirtjumper DJ fx sport 3 4 5 6 dual sport verve escape 
Trek Domane Cannondale Synapse Boardman Allied Alfa Giant TCR BMC Teammachine 
SLR01 Jamis Renegade Diamondback Podium Vitesse 3T Strada diverge Giant Defy 
OPEN U.P.P.E.R. allez Kona Rove Canyon Ultimate CF SLX tarmac sworks s works 
s-works Liv Langma pinarello dogma Raleigh revere Fuji felt orbea salsa kestrel 
ridley roadmachine pro comp sport ultegra 105 durace dura ace dura-ace di2 sora 
apex red etap e tap e-tap wilier pinnacle roval cervelo dolce sequoia coda 
bianchi amira madone awol crux langster shiv venge cyclocross gravel emonda 
boone crockett checkpoint Schwinn Micargi Giant Dyno GT Electra Murray 
Specialized Trek Raleigh Huffy Columbia Diamondback BMX Haro Ripper Redline 
Kustom Kruiser Kruzer King Mongoose Phat 3G Ripper Flyer SE Greenline Magna 
Nirve AddMotor, Benno, Bianchi, Breezer, Cervelo, Cyclekids, DelSol, 
Diamondback, Evo, Felt, Fuji, Haro, Haven, IZIP, Jamis, Linus, Marin, Masi, 
Norco, Orbea, Raleigh, Redline, Reid, Rocky Mountain, SE Bikes, Zipp, Orange, 
Paul, Seven Peaks, Sun, Tuesday, Thruster, Univega Yuba, Extracycle eBike, 
cargo, cargo bike, electric bike, bike, bicycle, Bafang, Radwagon, Trek, 
Specialized, Cannondale, Giant, touring, bbshd, bbs02, BBHD, BBSH, BBSHD, 
BBS02, BBS01, BBS02B, electric bike, electric bicycles, electric bikes, 
Xtracycle, cargo bikes, Yuba bike, Tern, Rad bike, Radbicycle frame, Aventon, 
Surly, Soma, Salsa, Electra, Schwinn, Mongoose, BMX, Fixie, gravel bike, gravel 
bikes, Santa Cruz, Rocky Mountain, bike, bicycle, Orbea, Dahon”






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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Joe,
I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to discard 
what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification than 
too much.
I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short time 
I've been in the group.
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford wrote: 
  It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:



Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned over 
the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's served me 
well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all wrong! 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and H to 
cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will move the 
cage through that range.
If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt there. 
Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use a hex bolt. 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable loose 
when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!Doug

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:



Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable is 
let out as much as it will go. 



On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it works so 
here goes:
Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way out, 
then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear the 
chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it swinging 
any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and shift to the 
big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the big ring? Good, 
now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the chain from 
overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and crankarm. 
Once I've gotten this far I ride a bit to dial the L and H screws, often on the 
first try one or the other isn't quite right and I'm not getting enough travel 
to knock the chain to the next ring. 
Easy! 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 11:41:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano 
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper 
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? 
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the 
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all 
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of 
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most 
appreciated. Doug





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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Probably a typo on your part?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:57 PM, Jacob Byard wrote:   
In my notes I had 123mm written down. So who knows how I came up with that. I 
have notes everywhere. Like a crazy person. I’m ordering a 113mm now and will 
swap it out. Going narrower will probably help my knees too. 
Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 7:44 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



A spindle length of 107mm should give a chain line of 47.5mm (which is kind of 
standard, if I'm not mistaken) and 113mm a 50mm.
I run a 113 because I like to run my rings a scratch more outboard.
I'm not a subject matter expert, but a 123 BB sounds very long for a triple 
set-up, or even double.
Service Instructions for my Shimano FDs indicates recommended chain line for 
various Shimano BBs and 123 isn't even on the list. I can double check when I 
return home and send you the chart I have.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:18 PM, Jacob Byard wrote:   I 
just checked and it’s a 110 BCD on the big ring. I’ve got just under .5” of 
clearance if I’m in the small/ big combo. So I should be fine swapping in a 
narrower BB. 
I’ll see about picking up one of the m737 or m563’s 
Thanks for the help! 

Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G  wrote:



If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should have 
a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not hit the 
stays and enough range for the triple.  I am currently using this setup with a 
110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB.  But you may not need a 
new FD anyway.
Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact?  If so, that is meant to be 
run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out of 
range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline. 
My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs what 
you have now to tire) and go to that.  Perfect chainline.  Great Q-factor.  
Prefect.  

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

Hello good people,
I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash doesn't 
work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm bottom 
bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. 

I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake on 
my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem to have 
enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had everything 
installed correctly. 

The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.  

If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues? 
I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option. 

Thanks for any insight!
Cheers,
Jacob



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Re: [RBW] Re: Gus front derailleur reccomendation needed

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
A spindle length of 107mm should give a chain line of 47.5mm (which is kind of 
standard, if I'm not mistaken) and 113mm a 50mm.
I run a 113 because I like to run my rings a scratch more outboard.
I'm not a subject matter expert, but a 123 BB sounds very long for a triple 
set-up, or even double.
Service Instructions for my Shimano FDs indicates recommended chain line for 
various Shimano BBs and 123 isn't even on the list. I can double check when I 
return home and send you the chart I have.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:18 PM, Jacob Byard wrote:   I 
just checked and it’s a 110 BCD on the big ring. I’ve got just under .5” of 
clearance if I’m in the small/ big combo. So I should be fine swapping in a 
narrower BB. 
I’ll see about picking up one of the m737 or m563’s 
Thanks for the help! 

Cheers,
Jacob

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:46 PM, Justus G  wrote:



If you look for a good condition old stock XT M737 or LX M563 you should have 
a perfect match for your ring sizes, a small/short enough cage to not hit the 
stays and enough range for the triple.  I am currently using this setup with a 
110/74 Ritchey Triple that I run with a Phil ~119mm BB.  But you may not need a 
new FD anyway.
Is your crankset the Ritchey Logic 94/58 Compact?  If so, that is meant to be 
run with a 110-113mm BB so if that is the case my concern is you are out of 
range due to the extra length which will also effect chainline. 
My recommend is to measure and see if a 113mm BB will work (need 5mm vs what 
you have now to tire) and go to that.  Perfect chainline.  Great Q-factor.  
Prefect.  

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 4:57:38 PM UTC-6 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

Hello good people,
I'm finishing up my Gus build and the front derailleur from my stash doesn't 
work. I'm using a triple crankset (42/32/22 Ritchey) with a 123mm bottom 
bracket. 9 speed in the back and a 2.25" rear tire. 

I actually bought a Shimano FD-M780 but it was the braze on style (mistake on 
my part). When I got the clamp in and everything mounted it didn't seem to have 
enough throw to push into the big ring. I'm pretty confident I had everything 
installed correctly. 

The Skeleton Key FD on Riv says a 118mm BB.  

If I change the BB to something narrower will I run into tire clearance issues? 
I don't plan on going larger but it would be nice to have the option. 

Thanks for any insight!
Cheers,
Jacob



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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Doug:
Chew on these...

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
https://si.shimano.com/en/#/en/search/Series?name=XTR=Archive=MTB
On the Shimano site do some surfing around to find your FD model Service 
Instructions.

Bon appetit,
Scott



On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 01:34:39 PM MST, Doug H. 
 wrote:  
 
 That would be great. Thank you. I know it should be easy! And, if I learn to 
read instructions that would be most helpful. ;)Doug

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 3:24:21 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

I recently replaced the Deore on my Clem with a nearly identical XTR. Only did 
so because it was cheap @ a tubeless tire explosion coated the Deore with 
sealant. That stuff just will not come off!A way I had never installed / tuned 
one before. The supplied instructions were very helpful - it was a cinch! If I 
can find those instruction I will see if I can forward some pics. In the 
meantime, I think Shimano provides access to these very same instructions on 
line.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Doug H.  wrote:



I want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano 
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper 
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? 
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the 
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all 
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of 
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most 
appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Also, you can hop onto the Shimano website and locate your FD model's Service 
Instructions that will demonstrate step-by-step. I can send you the link later.
Scott 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:43 PM, Scott Luly wrote:   
There's an order of operations to proper adjustment.Have you tried the Park 
Tool website? They have some great videos for that.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:41 PM, Doug H. wrote:   I 
want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano 
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper 
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? 
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the 
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all 
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of 
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most 
appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Front Derailer Adjustment

2022-12-03 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
There's an order of operations to proper adjustment.Have you tried the Park 
Tool website? They have some great videos for that.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 12:41 PM, Doug H. wrote:   I 
want to tap into the collective knowledge here. I need to adjust my Shimano 
Deore front derailer on my Clem. It looks to be aligned properly. Is it proper 
to tighten the cable when the chain is on the small ring and largest rear cog? 
Should the H and L screws be all the way screwed in when I start the 
adjustment? I was able to get it to shift but the low screw is pretty much all 
the way out so it just seems to be off in some way. And, after a couple of 
rides it seems to come back out of adjustment. Any advice would be most 
appreciated. Doug

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Re: [RBW] Dura-Ace and Japanese Recycling

2022-12-02 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 John, the Atlantis I purchased new from Riv last month takes a 31.8 clamp FD. 
Yours is a 28.6? They must have changed along the way?

On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 08:15:29 PM MST, John Rinker 
 wrote:  
 
 You bet, Mike. My Hunq has the original XT FD from my first mountain bike from 
the early 90s, and I've got some Deer Heads that I'm saving for something, 
someday. 

On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 6:42:48 PM UTC-8 Mike Godwin wrote:

John discovered the older FD magic. All my bikes have older (late 20th century) 
generally two-ring FDs - Campy, Suntour, Shimano - shifting triples. I really 
like the aesthetics and function.
Mike "scrounging the bike kitchen for gems" Godwin SLO CA 
On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 5:48:30 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

Hey Aaron and Scott,
I'll snap a photo when I'm out and about tomorrow. The Atlantis is a 2005 (I 
believe)Toyo Scott, regarding the FD, it was a braze-on mounted one so I bought 
an 28.6 clamp for it. No fussing around with it and it shifts beautifully.
Cheers,John

On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 5:34:58 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

I wanna see a full size pic, too, please! Toyo or MIT? Judging by space between 
rear wheel and seat tube, probably Toyo?
Such a handsome FD! Clamp size is 31.8? No fussing to mount it? I'm building a 
new 62cm MIT Atlantis right now and am on hunt for a FD for it. Think I just 
found some direction...
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 


John,
Thanks for sharing and teaching me about Gomi. Sometimes small reminders are 
the best.
Best,
Aaron in El Paso

p.s. a full size photo of the Atlantis is now expected. 
On Dec 2, 2022, at 17:34, John Rinker  wrote:

One interesting thing about living in Japan is the gomi. 'Gomi' is any 
trash/refuse/garbage that is bigger than a toaster oven and must have a special 
tag in order for it to be disposed of. Japan's recycling system is complicated 
but effective, and the gomi is just one aspect of it.
It never ceased to amaze me what can be found in the gomi- beautiful furniture, 
golf clubs, karaoke machines, and, yes, bicycles. While technically one is not 
supposed to take things from the gomi, during my two years in Japan, I couldn't 
resist pulling a number of bicycles from the gomi including a brand new Tern 
folding bicycle and a 1990s-era Bottechia racing bicycle, handmade with 
Columbus tubing and a Dura-ace groupset. The Bottechia looked as though it had 
been ridden less than a dozen times, and the Dura-Ace (7400) is in mint 
condition. The Japanese tend to treat their goods with care and respect, and 
the Bottechia was no exception. 
Alas, the frame was far too small for me and Italian racing bikes, while very 
beautiful don't really fit my style of riding. Before offering up the frame to 
a local shop, I did strip all the parts and was left with a beautiful group of 
Shimano's finest road mech. 
Fast forward to last week, when I swapped out the crankset on my Atlantis and 
found that the beautiful Dura-Ace front derailleur works beautifully with the 
Rene Herse triple...even in the snow.
I miss so much about living in Japan, to my mind the most civilized of 
countries, but I'm delighted to know that as I pedal about exploring the 
mountains of BC I'll have a bit of Japanese trash adorning my bicycle.
Cheers, John


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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem L vs Rosco Bebe

2022-12-02 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Not sure if the trail is the same, but Atlantis fork is not the same as 
Gus/Susie.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Dec 2, 2022 at 7:59 AM, Hoch in ut wrote:   I 
believe the Rosco uses Clem forks, so I’m assuming the front end is similar, if 
not the same. Rivendell told me that they also use the same front end on the 
Gus, Susie, Atlantis so they should all ride very similar. 
Unless you just want a new bike to get a new bike (nothing wrong with that), 
I’d just keep the Rosco. It’s a very unique and rare bike. 

On Friday, December 2, 2022 at 7:05:27 AM UTC-7 Paul Clifton wrote:

Thanks for the feedback Richard and Laing. I certain I'd enjoy a Clem, but I 
guess I'll never know how unique the Bebe bike is until I can ride them both 
back to back. There's still part of me that wants to get it to another new 
parent.

Laing, please share you thoughts when you get the Bebe on the road. I can tell 
you it's just as fun without a kid on the front as it is with one. The extra 
load just adds to the stability.
Paul

On Wednesday, November 30, 2022 at 6:29:39 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:

I own both, but I have never completed the Bebe build [everything done but the 
brakes and chain-line (S-A 3 speed)], so not much help yet. I bought the Bebe 
because of the long effective top tube. I have short legs and a long torso and 
it seemed like it might be the ideal step through for bars with a lot of 
backsweep. I also have a Betty Foy, Rosco Bubbe Medium Mountain Mixte and the 
one and only Keven's Bike true mixte. Some day I may not be able to swing my 
leg over and I wanted to cover all the options on Rivendell step-thrus. I never 
intended for the Bebe to be a baby bike, it's my long torso bike.
Laing

On Wednesday, November 30, 2022 at 6:11:23 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:

Has anyone ridden both a Clem L and a Rosco Bebe enough to comment on the 
differences?
My bebe has long since outgrown the Yepp Mini front seat, and I'm now using the 
Bebe to drag a copilot.
Part of me feels like I should pass the Bebe on to a new parent, but another 
part of me wants to just keep it. The ride is phenomenal, and really unlike 
anything else I've ever ridden and I doubt I'd ever get it back if I let it go.
The 68 degree seat tube angle is really comfortable, and the really long 
effective top tube puts so much bike out in front of the rider that it feels 
like it really takes the lead. It's absurdly stable on fast descents and carves 
corners without any skittishness.
If I was going to sell it, I'd probably replace it with a Clem as my kid 
hauling townie, since I'd like to keep my Gus set up for rowdy single track fun.
So I'm curious if anyone can actually compare the two.
Paul in AR





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Re: [RBW] Re: Book recommendations for learning how to build up a bike

2022-11-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Mackenzy:
DITTO...
Until just the other day I didn't know he passed away in 2008, RIP.
The site is remarkably helpful for tips, DIY, and trivia things like cog 
spacing...haha.
Outside of Service Instructions it's my go to resource. Crazy the number of 
topics that are covered. And, as you say, he wrote well such that his guidance 
is easy reading.

Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 3:55 PM, Mackenzy 
Albright wrote:   Not to discourage books. I love 
books. Just an FYI I am a really really really big fan of the Sheldon Brown 
website. Every time. i need to do a thing to my bike that I cant remember how 
to do it i just type whatever I need and sheldon brown.  like "chain length 
sheldon brown"  problem solved. 
I love that every write up is well written. builds in problem solving and 
issues based DIY compatibility options instead of assuming group sets and new 
parts. etc. 
I wish somebody would just compile the sheldon brown website into a hardcover 
book. ISOLA PRESS. After jobst brant - here is your next project! 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 10:14:20 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

My experience with bike mechanic books is that they all say the same stuff, but 
in different ways, with different styles of illustrations or photographs, and 
in varying degrees of detail. It might be worth a trip to the library to flip 
through a few of them and see what jives with your experience and preferences.
The one I used as a kid was called something like "How to fix your bicycle" and 
it just confused me (and my dad who is a competent mechanic). So definitely 
skim anything you can before you buy it.

The content I would really want in a book is tips and tricks, like how to hold 
everything just right to get the cable tension for my brakes perfect and what 
parts are compatible with other parts (like using a 9 speed chain on 8 speed 
cassettes, or using Shimano road shifters with mountain derailers).I don't know 
of a book that has that stuff, but I bet there is one out there that does.
Paul in AR

On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:08:04 AM UTC-6 Stephanie A. wrote:

As I continue to change things on my current bike, I've realize that what I 
really want is a book that helps me understand building up and maintaining a 
bike. YouTube videos and helpful websites are great. I'm so thankful that they 
exist. But my brain craves a single, cohesively written text I can easily read 
through and turn to when I'm thinking about changing shifters, selecting 
different drivetrain parts, understanding geometry, taking apart bikes, wiring, 
and making adjustments. I really only see myself dealing with non-fixie 
commuters and touring bikes.
I found a book online called How to Build a Bike (in a Weekend) by Alan 
Anderson with illustrations by Lee John Phillips. Has anyone used this? Does 
anyone have other suggestions?




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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

2022-11-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
John:
How about using your 9 speed cassette as an 8 speed by adjusting out lowest or 
highest gear with a limit screw, assuming you can so without one of those gears?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Nov 29, 2022 at 2:00 PM, Ted Durant wrote:   On 
Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 2:36:34 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak wrote:

Did you measure the RD ratio's or are they a published value somewhere??
I have seen some published, but my memory is that I measured them from the 
total distance between cogs and the total amount of cable pulled. 
 Do you happen to know the ratio for a Shimano Deore M-591-SGS??  I have this 
with a Shimano 9sp road cassette (4.34mm cog spacing).   
Classic Shimano 6-7-8-9 (and 10 Road) derailers are 1.72. 
The RD ratio would have to greater than 1.39 for the SunTour barcon 25mm travel 
to shift the 8 cog spacings on the 9 speed cassette   (8 * 4.34)/25 = 1.39
Well, I have Shimano 9 at 4.35, not 4.34, but otherwise I concur :-) My 
spreadsheet says you need 20.2mm of cable pull to shift a Shimano 9-sp derailer 
across a Shimano 9-sp cog set, so BarCons should have plenty of capacity. Just 
don't try to put a SRAM road derailer on that setup - you'll be a couple mm 
short.  
Newer derailers are using lower actuation ratios so that more cable pull is 
required for each shift, so that there is more room for error. So, any derailer 
that pre-dates the 11-speed era, other than SRAM "Exact Actuation" will 
probably be a good match with BarCons.
Ted DurantMilwaukee, WI USA 

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

2022-11-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Ted:
Very interesting and insightful...I learned a lot from your post! It appears RD 
ratio is a critical variable that really deepens the analysis one would have to 
do bench top to get a feel for how a certain combo of bits would work in theory 
before trying. Personally, I think I'd be more inclined to just install the 
bits and see how they work before undergoing that much analysis, but it's 
educational to at least better understand how bits function together and the 
interplay between different parts of a system.
Thanks for sharing!
Scott in frozen ground Montana 

On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 07:33:10 AM MST, Ted Durant 
 wrote:  
 
 On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 8:43:17 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

 Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 
1975s. Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different 
cassettes of any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog spacing. 

I spent an inordinate amount of time on this topic and put together a 
spreadsheet (naturally). I found 25 clicks on my SunTour BarCons, and 25mm of 
total cable pull, so each click is 1.0mm. 
Rear derailer ratio, the amount of horizontal movement per mm of cable 
movement, varies pretty widely, from 1.1 (Shimano 11 mtn, SRAM 7-9 Mtn) (I did 
this before 12 and 13 speed...) to 1.90 (SunTour).
The SunTour BarCon has a pretty small barrel, and 25mm isn't enough cable pull 
for a low-ratio derailer across a large number of cogs. For example, a Shimano 
11-speed MTB derailer needs 36mm of cable pull.
If you want to dial it in, a Campy newer 9-speed derailer with a matching 
cassette needs 3.03mm of cable pull (3 BarCon clicks) for each cog. Or, combine 
a Shimano 10 or 11 speed derailer with a SunTour freewheel and you'll use right 
around 2mm (2 clicks) per cog.
There aren't many combo's that line up with even 1 mm clicks.
Ted DurantMilwaukee, WI USA

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Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

2022-11-28 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Clarification/correction to my previous post on this thread.
John:
I previously stated cog spacing for 7 and 8 speed Shimano cassettes is the same 
at 4.8 mm. In fact, Shimano 7 and 8 speed cassettes have different spacing.
Correction: cog spacing for Shimano 7 speed cassettes is 5 mm and for 8 speed 
is 4.8 mm. 

Check out this dandy spacing chart on Sheldon Brown's website: 
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html
I bet your 1975 shifters work just fine with the 7 speed cassette, since your 
ratchet shifters are more like a friction shifter than an index shifter, 
allowing you a bit of fine tune/trim after a gear shift to find the chain's 
happy spot on cog. And the little extra spacing between cogs should favor you 
being able to find a sweet spot once a shift is made.

Happy shifting,
Scott in terrible roads Montana






On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 09:23:58 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott has covered this completely so I'll just add this from my experience 
with various ratcheting style shifters: I've never noticed the specific number 
of clicks per cog, what I have noticed is the ratchet feature makes the "I have 
to move the lever this much to get a clean shift" action easier to nail. I 
can't explain why it helps me, but I always had better luck with them than pure 
friction levers. 

On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 6:43:17 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

 John:
I'll attempt to add to the valuable information Dave and Nick have shared...
When thinking about compatibility with shifters, RDs, and cassettes; keep in 
mind the RD does whatever the shifter (index, ratchet, or friction) tells it to 
do, hence the "dummy" comment. So you can for the most part eliminate the RD 
from your compatibility question.
Your Shimano 8 speed shifter works with your Shimano 7 speed cassette because 
the "indexing" in the shifter is matched with the spacing between the cassette 
cogs; hence one click, one shift. So when you click a shift the shifter pulls 
the cable an amount that causes the RD to move (inboard or outboard) an amount 
equivalent to the distance between the cogs of the cassette. On a Shimano 8 
speed cassette the distance between cogs is 4.8 mm, so each time you shift with 
a Shimano 8 speed indexed shifter the RD is going to move 4.8 mm inboard or 
outboard. Shimano 9 speed cassettes have the cogs spaced 4.34 mm apart. You can 
see the problem if you were to use, for example, a Shimano 9 speed indexed 
shifter with an 8 speed cassette (one shift would move RD 4.34 mm, not the 
needed 4.8 mm between 8 speed cassette cogs) Your 8 speed shifter works on the 
7 speed cassette because a limit screw on the RD doesn't allow it to move the 
full distance into the 8th position and the distance between cogs on a 7 speed 
cassette are the same as 8 speed: 4.8 mm. Indexing (space between cogs) is the 
same between Shimano 7 and 8 speed, so they play well together. If you were to 
use a cassette from a different manufacturer in which the distance between cogs 
was different from that of a Shimano cassette, then you'd likely run into a 
compatibility issue with your 8 speed shifter/non-Shimano cassette (assuming 
cog spacing was different from an 8 speed Shimano cassette).
One can almost look at a friction shifter as allowing infinite adjustment. 
Riders that are good with them almost develop an indexing in their head/hand 
feel then fine tune after a shift. No indexing to a friction shifter so you can 
run a friction shifter with any make/speed cassette. Just have to find the 
sweet spot yourself.

The ratchets move the shift cable in little bits (and the RD in little bits) I 
believe (I've never ran them. Someone, please, correct me if I'm wrong). So 
each click moves the shift cable a certain amount that in turn moves the RD a 
certain amount. You'd have to do some research to find out how much the RD 
moves with each click of your 1975s and then do some math. You know, at least 
with your Shimano 7 speed cassette, the cogs are spaced 4.8 mm apart. How much 
does the 1975 shifter move the RD each click? For perfect shifting on the 7 
speed (or 8) cassette, the clicks (one, two, or three)/RD movement would have 
to add up to intervals of 4.8 mm. I doubt that's going to be the case, but 
fortunately there's a little wiggle room short of perfect that will obtain 
satisfactory shifting. At least there is more wiggle room with 4.8 mm spacing 
than there is with 4.34 mm (Shimano 9 speed casette).I guess one could look at 
ratchet shifting as being somewhere between indexing (one click, one shift) and 
friction (infinite adjustment) shifting.

Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 1975s. 
Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different cassettes of 
any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog spacing. For the 
compatibility issue you are inquiring about, the RD isn't really part of the 
puzzle, so eliminate it.

Sheldon Brown's website 

Re: [RBW] SunTour Rachet Bar Ends shifting a Modern RD - Need to Trim??

2022-11-27 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 John:
I'll attempt to add to the valuable information Dave and Nick have shared...
When thinking about compatibility with shifters, RDs, and cassettes; keep in 
mind the RD does whatever the shifter (index, ratchet, or friction) tells it to 
do, hence the "dummy" comment. So you can for the most part eliminate the RD 
from your compatibility question.
Your Shimano 8 speed shifter works with your Shimano 7 speed cassette because 
the "indexing" in the shifter is matched with the spacing between the cassette 
cogs; hence one click, one shift. So when you click a shift the shifter pulls 
the cable an amount that causes the RD to move (inboard or outboard) an amount 
equivalent to the distance between the cogs of the cassette. On a Shimano 8 
speed cassette the distance between cogs is 4.8 mm, so each time you shift with 
a Shimano 8 speed indexed shifter the RD is going to move 4.8 mm inboard or 
outboard. Shimano 9 speed cassettes have the cogs spaced 4.34 mm apart. You can 
see the problem if you were to use, for example, a Shimano 9 speed indexed 
shifter with an 8 speed cassette (one shift would move RD 4.34 mm, not the 
needed 4.8 mm between 8 speed cassette cogs) Your 8 speed shifter works on the 
7 speed cassette because a limit screw on the RD doesn't allow it to move the 
full distance into the 8th position and the distance between cogs on a 7 speed 
cassette are the same as 8 speed: 4.8 mm. Indexing (space between cogs) is the 
same between Shimano 7 and 8 speed, so they play well together. If you were to 
use a cassette from a different manufacturer in which the distance between cogs 
was different from that of a Shimano cassette, then you'd likely run into a 
compatibility issue with your 8 speed shifter/non-Shimano cassette (assuming 
cog spacing was different from an 8 speed Shimano cassette).
One can almost look at a friction shifter as allowing infinite adjustment. 
Riders that are good with them almost develop an indexing in their head/hand 
feel then fine tune after a shift. No indexing to a friction shifter so you can 
run a friction shifter with any make/speed cassette. Just have to find the 
sweet spot yourself.

The ratchets move the shift cable in little bits (and the RD in little bits) I 
believe (I've never ran them. Someone, please, correct me if I'm wrong). So 
each click moves the shift cable a certain amount that in turn moves the RD a 
certain amount. You'd have to do some research to find out how much the RD 
moves with each click of your 1975s and then do some math. You know, at least 
with your Shimano 7 speed cassette, the cogs are spaced 4.8 mm apart. How much 
does the 1975 shifter move the RD each click? For perfect shifting on the 7 
speed (or 8) cassette, the clicks (one, two, or three)/RD movement would have 
to add up to intervals of 4.8 mm. I doubt that's going to be the case, but 
fortunately there's a little wiggle room short of perfect that will obtain 
satisfactory shifting. At least there is more wiggle room with 4.8 mm spacing 
than there is with 4.34 mm (Shimano 9 speed casette).I guess one could look at 
ratchet shifting as being somewhere between indexing (one click, one shift) and 
friction (infinite adjustment) shifting.

Your research task: find out how much RD moves with each ratchet of your 1975s. 
Then you'll be able to better assess compatibility with different cassettes of 
any maker/speed, as long as you get the respective cog spacing. For the 
compatibility issue you are inquiring about, the RD isn't really part of the 
puzzle, so eliminate it.

Sheldon Brown's website has that level of trivia: cog spacing, indexing values. 
And hopefully it has ratcheting values. You might find your answer there.
Good luck! And, please, report back!
Scott in Big Sky Country 



On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 05:21:38 PM MST, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW 
Owners Bunch  wrote:  
 
 
IF I use my 1975Suntour Bar End Ratcheted shifters with a modern Shimano RD 
(Deroe M531) and a Shimano7 speed HG cassette, and modern Shimano shifter 
cables/housings,  WILL the RD shift each gear going from thesmallest cog to the 
largest cog, WITHOUT the need to ‘trim’ the RD after eachshift, especially when 
moving up in the large cogs

Secondary question:  If the SunTours would work without trimming, do they 
enough pull for a 7 speed cassette???


 I have been using 8speed Shimano Ultegra bar ends (BS-64) with a HG-50 7 speed 
cassette and likeit, 1 click, 1 shift, no need to trim. Been curious about 
going back to using the SunTours rachets if themodern RD eliminates the need to 
“trim”. Would like to know if others have tried it and what the results are 
withrespect to trimming.

 Note,  NOT looking for a debate on Index vs Friction.  I think index is 
better, but I have troubleburying those nice SunTour bar ends & maybe I can use 
them if the RD eliminates trimming. YMMV and that’s great, diversity is good.

 

John Hawrylak

Woodstown NJ


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Re: [RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

2022-11-26 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Go with Joe's wisdom...

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 6:44 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:   My 
inclination fron your parts options is to try the 3x RapidFire on the front (it 
may work with that derailer) and buy an 8-speed RapidFire for your Altus rear 
derailer and an 8-speed cassette. But it would help a lot to know what system 
she's used to. 

On Saturday, November 26, 2022 at 3:03:26 PM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

What do y'all think about putting friction bar end shifters on Albatross bars 
for a new rider?

I'm just looking for opinions since I'm stumped on this build.
My options are more-or-less indexed or friction 9 speed Microshift thumbies, 
friction bar ends, or buy some rapid fire shifters.

I (selfishly) want to keep the thumbies for a different build for myself. And 
I'd have to buy a set of rapid fire shifters - which has its own problems 
(derrailer/cassette mismatching ...).
So I want to know - Do you think a new rider would be irritated by friction bar 
ends?
Here's the long story:

I have a very short friend (4'11" - PBH is 72). If money and availability were 
no object, I'd buy her a 45cm Clem and be done with it, but I can't do that 
myself, and she'd never spend that kind of money on a bike (at least not until 
she catches the biking bug from this bike I'm building her since it'll be the 
first bike that's ever fit her).

So my goal is to build a bike that fits her and is so fun to ride that she'll 
want to ride bikes all the time and eventually just buy a Clem.

I finally found a frame that will fit her. It's a tiny (41 cm) 90s Hardrock 
step through with 26" wheels and Shimano 200ES drive train, which is low end 
90s 7-speed stuff. It has a triple crank that I will leave in place (buttery 
smooth even after 30 years). Both derailers are in good shape, but they're low 
end 90s stuff, so I doubt they feel great, but I bet they'd work with friction 
just fine. It came with junky old rapid fire shifters, so those are definitely 
getting replaced.

I'm planning to put Albatross bars on this bike, so my quandary is about the 
drivetrain. I'd like to use as many parts from my bin as possible, but I can't 
decide which combo is gonna work best and be the most fun for a timid rider. 
Buying new parts is no big deal, but I don't see the point in spending a bunch 
of money in the event she doesn't ride it much, so here are the relevant parts 
from my bin:   
   - Rear wheel options - 7 speed cassette wheel with good cassette. 8/9/10 
speed wheel with no cassette.
   - Shifters -Microshift 9 speed thumbies (I kinda want to keep these for 
another build). Shimano bar ends that no longer index.   

   - Derailers - New Altus 8 speed RD. Old Sora 9 speed RD. Shimano 600ES 7 
speed RD.   

So here are my options:

   
   - Keep the old 7 speed stuff. Friction bar ends or friction thumbies.
   - Buy a new 8 speed cassette. Use the Altus RD from my box. Friction 
thumbies or bar ends.
   - Buy a 9 speed cassette and a 9 speed derailer. Indexed Microshift thumbies.
   - Buy a 9 speed cassette, derailer, and rapid fire shifter. The Sunrace 9 
speed stuff comes out to about $60 for the whole set up.
I have a new 3x rapid fire shifter for the front, but I hate how those shift, 
and I don't think I have a matching derailer - I can test the 200GS FD that is 
on there, but I personally think friction front is the way to go, and I 
definitely prefer a bar end for that over a thumbie, because the leverage feels 
better to me.
Since bar ends are just such a joy to use and have so much leverage, I suspect 
the Altus derailer and a 8 or 9 speed cassette with a friction bar end will be 
fantastic for her, but I'd love some second opinions, and since it's winter, 
I'm sure there are plenty out there, so feel free to make blue sky suggestions 
:)
Here's the bike before I tore it down to grease everything

Thanks,Paul in AR



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Re: [RBW] Re: Cockpit Quandaries - Friction bar ends for a new rider

2022-11-26 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
As Mike noted, cable routing approach to v-brake noodles is pretty forgiving 
and allows some flexibility. It may be hard to visualize before attempting it, 
but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Also, noodles with different bends 
and angles exist that might help you refine your set-up.I personally like it 
when inner cable is fully housed from lever to brakes, because it's easier to 
shimmy housing this way or that through cable keepers (not stops). If you have 
a cable housing stop en route from lever to brake (and you probably do on a 
specialized), you'll just need to be a tad bit more precise with cutting 
housing segment length between last stop and noodle. Play with cable housing 
length and ideal noodle position before cutting housing. It's a fun task. Worst 
case you get it wrong 1st go and nail it 2nd attempt.
Good luck,
Scott in MT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 4:17 PM, mikel66...@juno.com 
wrote:   v brakes noodles can easily be pointed downward. i would run housing 
from the cable stop up to the noodle. i routinely do this upgrade old cantis to 
v brakes on lady frames

mike goldman
rhode island

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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Laing, I've heard the term "galling" before, but I always thought it meant 
threads were somehow corroded, filled with debris, or buggered from cross 
threading.
I've also heard the term used to describe my personality...hehe...but that's a 
thread for elsewhere.
It's Friday afternoon. Can you tell? Yee-haw!!!
Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley  
wrote:  
 
 The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. Stainless 
on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to each other. 
Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this.
Laing

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote:


Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost 
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through 
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto 
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be 
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut 
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort 
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up 
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know 
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It 
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:

An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was 
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”







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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 I always have a tube of anti-sieze laying around. I love the stuff not just 
for anti-seize properties but also for thread lubrication to get things to seat 
nicely, especially if I've got the torque wrench in play.
Pepto is multi purpose...how about that?! Didn't know that either!
Thanks again, Laing
Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 04:03:08 PM MST, lconley  
wrote:  
 
 I have busted multiple stainless steel nuts and bolts. The old chrome ones 
from Cinelli and Campagnolo, etc. never froze and broke, nor did the galvanized 
ones on lesser bikes. Then I 'upgraded' to Stainless Steel, and started having 
problems.
Google this: Pepto Bismol works as anti-seize if you don't have anything else 
around.
Laing

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:44:36 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

 You get the "Knowledge" badge, Laing. Thanks for sharing. I didn't even know 
such a phenomenon existed.
I'll add that to my experience tool box.
Much appreciated!
Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley  
wrote:  
 
 The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. Stainless 
on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to each other. 
Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this.
Laing

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote:


Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost 
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through 
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto 
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be 
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut 
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort 
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up 
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know 
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It 
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:

An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was 
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”







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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Ima take mine apart and add some anti seeze. Hope it's not galled like the 
others experienced. Simple fix though...
Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley  
wrote:  
 
 The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. Stainless 
on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to each other. 
Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this.
Laing

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote:


Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost 
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through 
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto 
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be 
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut 
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort 
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up 
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know 
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It 
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:

An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was 
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”







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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 You get the "Knowledge" badge, Laing. Thanks for sharing. I didn't even know 
such a phenomenon existed.
I'll add that to my experience tool box.
Much appreciated!
Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:33:52 PM MST, lconley  
wrote:  
 
 The problem could be that the nut and bolt are both stainless steel. Stainless 
on stainless can "gall", basically cold welding themselves to each other. 
Lubricant / anti-seize on the threads can help prevent this.
Laing

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 5:12:58 PM UTC-5 Mark C wrote:


Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost 
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through 
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto 
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be 
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut 
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort 
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up 
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know 
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It 
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:

An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was 
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”







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Re: [RBW] Betty Foy Sizing & Search

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Thanks, Joe

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 02:46:17 PM MST, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 It might be this one. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225234493429?mkcid=16=1=711-127632-2357-0=5U1MCFkqQfe=2349624=mIm2WqOOS_O=_ver=artemis=COPY

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

 Contact info and pics?

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 10:32:11 AM MST, 'zoomie z' via RBW Owners 
Bunch  wrote:  
 
 Oh wow! So cool We’re  selling a Betty Foy 62 cm in excellent shape with 
albatross handlebars! I’ve tried to post here without any luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2022, at 6:09 PM, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



The price looks very good if the 2 racks are included.   A 55 may be too big 
for Matt's wife
John HawrylakWoodstown NJ

On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 8:20:51 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

Here’s a 55cm Betty Foy in Santa Barbara...


|  |
| 
| Rivendell Betty Foy mixte - bicycles - by owner - bike 
salesantabarbara.craigslist.org |

 |




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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Good idea marking the bolt end. That's clever!

I bet the bolt was shearing when it turned with difficulty despite no change on 
the end.
I'm always very vigilant and pay critical attention to ensuring threads are 
engaging before giving it the onion. At times it can be hard to tell given a 
certain scenario when it's hard to get a good tactile feel.
If I were to install a new bolt and nut, I'd make sure I use tip of my index 
finger to ensure nut is seat completely and flush with mounting surface. One 
should be able to feel through a hex wrench the bolt threads passively engaging 
nut a few rotations before some resistance when the bolt encounters the nylon 
segment. Sometimes it's helpful to, while lightly applying pressure  to one 
another (bolt and nut), to rotated the bolt counter clockwise until one feels a 
very light click. At that point the threads would be very close to engaging and 
then I would return to a very light clockwise rotation and use the tactile 
thing to ensure threads are engaging passively.
Blabber, blabber

Again, just my friendly input...
Scott 

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:13:03 PM MST, Mark C 
 wrote:  
 
 
Oddly enough, I had the same experience with my Rosco Platypus. The seatpost 
bolt was very tight to turn, but worked sort of okay for almost a week through 
a few adjustments due to trying different saddles. Then as I was turning onto 
my street after a ride, the seatpost slammed down. The bolt still seemed to be 
tight, but I finally marked it and could see that it wasn't turning in the nut 
even though the bolt turned with difficulty. Then, as I was suspecting and sort 
of hoping, the bolt broke. I never found the nut so don't know what was up 
there, but it sure seemed like the threads slipped enough to jam. I don't know 
how else the post would suddenly slip and the bolt still feel very tight. It 
was such a freak thing I didn't mention it, but now I hear of another case.
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:31:11 AM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:

An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame was 
fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”






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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Dave:
The nylock nut bonding to the bolt sounds like an unlikely phenomenon to me. I 
just got an Atlantis F/F with same binder bolt set-up and mine turned normally. 
I wonder if yours was cross threaded because the nut got set cock-eyed in its 
binder seat when married to bolt. I can't see how nylon would bond to a bolt 
shaft as to not be removable as you tried. Blue locktite on a standard not is 
an option, but I wouldn't be opposed to trying a nylock nut again.
Also, chasing threads can be assisted by using a little lubrication of some 
sort: anti seeze/thread lube compound, Sea Foam, WD-40, most any lube. Even 
motor oil, not that I would given other options.
Another nifty trick is to start chasing from the opposite side you would 
typically introduce the bolt. For example on drop out eyelets start from the 
inboard wheel side. That way if something binds or goes a little wrong you 
could have second attempt by trying from the outboard wheel side. There have 
been times when I've had threads start to bugger/bind for one reason or another 
and it's a simple way to clean things back up by running a bolt through from 
other side. A second shot at same task, if you will. Assuming it's possible, 
for example one wouldn't be able to do this on a bottom bracket type scenario 
since there isn't access from the opposite side.
I'm probably sharing what you already know all well. Just sharing my 
experiences that have helped me out of a pickle. Tips from friends are always 
welcome. Even If I already know them...

Scott

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 06:31:17 AM MST, DavidP 
 wrote:  
 
 An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame 
was fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger 
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded 
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads 
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and 
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just 
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've 
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along 
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which 
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to 
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to 
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it 
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt 
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable 
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with 
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue 
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as 
expected.
-Dave

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have 
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side 
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know 
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by 
repositioning the pivot pin.

Laing

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

Thanks, Scott.  That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though.  I hadn’t run into that 
before.

I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies 
“and how are you going to build it up?”





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Re: [RBW] Betty Foy Sizing & Search

2022-11-18 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Contact info and pics?

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 10:32:11 AM MST, 'zoomie z' via RBW Owners 
Bunch  wrote:  
 
 Oh wow! So cool We’re  selling a Betty Foy 62 cm in excellent shape with 
albatross handlebars! I’ve tried to post here without any luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2022, at 6:09 PM, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



The price looks very good if the 2 racks are included.   A 55 may be too big 
for Matt's wife
John HawrylakWoodstown NJ

On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 8:20:51 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

Here’s a 55cm Betty Foy in Santa Barbara...


|  |
| 
| Rivendell Betty Foy mixte - bicycles - by owner - bike 
salesantabarbara.craigslist.org |

 |




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Re: [RBW] The Rivendell Ride

2022-11-17 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Thanks, Randy. After pushing go, I reread your post and realized you were 
discussing the Appaloosa. Are they a bit heavy? I've heard same about 2TT 
Atlantis.

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 12:47:09 PM MST, larson@gmail.com 
 wrote:  
 
 Scott,I have never ridden an Atlantis, but would love to, and believe that you 
will love it. Looking forward to hearing your impressions going forward.Randy

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 1:41:14 PM UTC-6 Scott wrote:

 Randy,
I'm curious, too, to get the group's take on your question as to weight vs. 
ride quality, as I'm currently building a new 62 Atlantis F/F. I'm wanting to 
do some dirt touring and bike packing on it. Hope I'm not in for a fat hog...
Scott

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 06:55:28 AM MST, larson@gmail.com 
 wrote:  
 
 I built up a 2TT 62cm Appaloosa in February as my first Riv, and have enjoyed 
it very much. The over riding impression is that I know that this is a heavy 
bike (from lifting it onto my hitch rack), but it rides lively and relatively 
light, and comfortable and stable. It is hard to wrap my head around the 
contradiction of the weight of the bike vs. this ride feel and seems to be one 
of the defining Rivendell ride characteristics from the opinions of 
others.Randy in Wisconsin

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 6:32:53 AM UTC-6 Chris L wrote:

I remember reading where Grant, or one of his long-term employees but I think 
Grant, said on front end geometry handling there are a few numbers they hold to 
but they don't discuss them outside the shop.  Trail would be an obvious one, 
but I've always thought it would be interesting to hear the rest.  Jan Heine 
gets into what might be some of RBW's other unspoken factors in his book on 
performance bicycles.  

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 10:38:08 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

Grant's 1993 Bridgestone RB-1 had a 54mm trail with 25mm tires. The 2022 
Roadini had a trail of around 58mm but with a 5mm lower BB. The Cheviot (I 
can't find numbers for the Platypus) had a trail of 58mm with a 25mm tire (but 
obviously few people would run 25mm tires on that bike), but even with a 33mm 
tire it'll still be a 61mm trail, making the bike steer a little slower but 
still agile. I had a custom bike built around the 1993 RB-1 geometry with a 
lower BB, and it rides similarly great. Now when it comes to compliance, 
stiffness, etc., the tubing thickness etc matters more, but in terms of 
handling I think Grant has it dialed down and you can see that he pretty much 
keeps all his bikes in the same zone when it comes to trail. The longer wheel 
base that he's been going for recently adds alot to stability and high speed 
handling at the expense of packability into bike boxes, which few care about. 
If you were to buy say, a Craig Calfee carbon framed bike, it actually has a 
very similar geometry too the RB-1, and rides similarly, but of course being 
made out of carbon and with a short wheel base and relatively little tire 
clearance chances are that bike wouldn't appeal to the same people who like 
Rivendell bicycles.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 6:09:47 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Oh I haven't the first clue how Grant does it. There's something going on with 
the numbers and tubes that makes them ride like a Harley Softail on the 
straights AND a Ducati Panigale in the turns. It's bonkers! 

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 5:51:31 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

You hit it on the head, Joe. Thanks for the thread. With all of your experience 
on a gazillion bikes, what do you think accounts for “the magical Riv ride he 
designs into these frames”? What makes it happen?




On Nov 16, 2022, at 5:41 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:


This is an edited version of an email I recently sent Grant, I wanted to post 
here cuz I think the magical Riv ride he designs into these frames is slightly 
under discussed..like we all know it and love it, then talk about other stuff 
like paint and parts. My comments are specifically about my custom but I've 
owned a bunch of Rivs and they all ride like this (Clem maybe not so 
light-feeling, but still zippy). Add your thoughts about your bikes! :
The handling is amazing. It feels light and zippy, yet absorbs shock (there's a 
lot of shock on these roads) and is very stable. When you put it in a turn it 
goes where you point it and holds the line until you change it. It does this 
when getting bumped offline, too..the darn thing pops right back to where it 
was going! I've ridden a bazillion bikes and nothing rides like a Rivendell 
Joe Bernard 


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Re: [RBW] Re: The do-it-all Rivendell of choice

2022-11-17 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 @junes1junes, I'm building an Atlantis that I hope to use here and there 
loaded for dirt touring and bike packing. At this point, I'm undecided on 
gearing and your gearing raised my brows. On my MTB I run 26 front and 32 rear 
(as my lowest gear ratio) and that feels on the verge of spin out.
Any thoughts on where your 24 front/36 rear combo shines and why you run it?
Thanks in advance,
Scott

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 06:41:23 AM MST, J J 
 wrote:  
 
 
I, too, would choose my Hunqapillar. The setup would be generally what I am 
currently running on my green Waterford-built 58:   
   - Upright, wide, swept-back bars with mirror and bell
   - Low gearing (triple with 24 tooth smallest in front, 9-speed with at least 
36 tooth biggest in back)
   - Rapid Rise RD
   - Friction thumb shifting
   - Tires no smaller than 50mm
   - Cantilever brakes
   - B67 saddle
   - Robust wheels with at least 36 spokes; dynamo hub
   - Good lights
   - Flat pedals
   - Rear rack
I could get particular about specific components; they would just have to fit 
these general parameters. The main thing is the Hunq itself. The  more examples 
of other bikes I’ve ridden — including other Rivs —  the more attached I get to 
the Hunq as a do-it-all. The other bikes seem to have too much or too little of 
something relative to the Hunq. They might be fun, interesting, comfortable, 
capable, whatever, but they feel compromised or annoying in some way, big or 
small. The Hunq compromises nothing to me and riding it puts me in a happy 
place.
On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 7:41:29 AM UTC-5 captaincon...@gmail.com 
wrote:

I nominate my 650b Hunqapillar.  It's the most comfortable bike I've ridden, 
and it's geometry doesn't seem to be intended for drops, flat, or upright 
handlebars--it feels different but good with each.

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 6:35:43 AM UTC-6 Chris L wrote:



On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 1:20:20 AM UTC-6 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

This is a fun one! I guess that I’ll kinda cop out and say that what I have now 
is what I’d run as a do-it-all. I really like the Gus but I see it as a 75% 
unpaved sorta bike which is why I’m pretty happy with my Atlantis. I live and 
ride in San Francisco and so see a lot of elevation changes both while 
commuting and while riding aimlessly. Thus my current setup (44-32-22 up front, 
12-32 in the rear) allows me to take on the steepest San Francisco hill and 
gnarliest unpaved route in Marin.
The addition of the basket has made it a true quiver killer in my eyes and 
makes me so happy that I no longer view baskets with disdain. I was sorely 
missing out. I’ve been a long time admirer (I saw my first Riv in 2008) but I’m 
a new owner (August of this year). I’m sure my answer will change over time, 
but, for now, the Atlantis is all that I need. 
Also also: I just did the attached route and featured a lot of rough terrain 
with the final 40 miles being exclusively paved. The Atlantis was supremely 
comfortable on all of it. 
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 8:15:13 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

I have one Riv that already does all this, but I'm cheating the premise of the 
thread cuz it's a custom I had built for the purpose. So I'll shift my answer 
to: What if I didn't have a car and part of the ride to go shopping included 
gnarly singletrack! 
Ok the answer is Gus Boots-Willsen. I'd move most of my parts over:SRAM 1x11 
drivetrainSugino 152mm 36t cranks (maybe a smaller front ring, I don't care 
much about spinning out)Deity pedals WI rear hubVelocity Atlas rimsBosco 
barsFace Plater stemNitto postBrooks B17Paul Motolites and leversNitto Big Rack
I'd swap the front hub for a SON Dyno, a move I wish I'd done when I had Rick 
build my wheels. Would probably add front low-rider racks. 
This would give me all the stuff I love about Rivs (except lugs..don't tell 
anybody but I love the fillet welds on Gus, my custom has a couple, too) in a 
stouter frame that will handle big loads and gnarly terrain. 

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 1:35:25 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

The threads on Platypus versus [name] and using versus "saving" your Rivendell 
raises an interesting if (fortunately!) academic question: if you could have 
only 1 Rivendell as your only bicycle, and that Rivendell had to serve all 
purposes -- fast pavement, commuting, errand loads, at least light dirt and 
gravel: what model would you choose and how would you build and equip it?
I'm fortunate to have a bike for each of my purposes, except a theft-be-damned 
but fun to ride grocery beater, which I hope to add to the collection*, but if 
I had to choose just 1 and that a Riv, it would be my gofast with a second set 
of wheels shod with 42 mm Naches Passes (which fit with room to spare under the 
front normal reach single pivot) but not bolt anything else to the Riv. Lights: 
I have an excellent B Ixon IQ Premium which puts out at least as much 
brightness and has a nicer beam pattern 

Re: [RBW] The Rivendell Ride

2022-11-17 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Randy,
I'm curious, too, to get the group's take on your question as to weight vs. 
ride quality, as I'm currently building a new 62 Atlantis F/F. I'm wanting to 
do some dirt touring and bike packing on it. Hope I'm not in for a fat hog...
Scott

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 06:55:28 AM MST, larson@gmail.com 
 wrote:  
 
 I built up a 2TT 62cm Appaloosa in February as my first Riv, and have enjoyed 
it very much. The over riding impression is that I know that this is a heavy 
bike (from lifting it onto my hitch rack), but it rides lively and relatively 
light, and comfortable and stable. It is hard to wrap my head around the 
contradiction of the weight of the bike vs. this ride feel and seems to be one 
of the defining Rivendell ride characteristics from the opinions of 
others.Randy in Wisconsin

On Thursday, November 17, 2022 at 6:32:53 AM UTC-6 Chris L wrote:

I remember reading where Grant, or one of his long-term employees but I think 
Grant, said on front end geometry handling there are a few numbers they hold to 
but they don't discuss them outside the shop.  Trail would be an obvious one, 
but I've always thought it would be interesting to hear the rest.  Jan Heine 
gets into what might be some of RBW's other unspoken factors in his book on 
performance bicycles.  

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 10:38:08 PM UTC-6 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

Grant's 1993 Bridgestone RB-1 had a 54mm trail with 25mm tires. The 2022 
Roadini had a trail of around 58mm but with a 5mm lower BB. The Cheviot (I 
can't find numbers for the Platypus) had a trail of 58mm with a 25mm tire (but 
obviously few people would run 25mm tires on that bike), but even with a 33mm 
tire it'll still be a 61mm trail, making the bike steer a little slower but 
still agile. I had a custom bike built around the 1993 RB-1 geometry with a 
lower BB, and it rides similarly great. Now when it comes to compliance, 
stiffness, etc., the tubing thickness etc matters more, but in terms of 
handling I think Grant has it dialed down and you can see that he pretty much 
keeps all his bikes in the same zone when it comes to trail. The longer wheel 
base that he's been going for recently adds alot to stability and high speed 
handling at the expense of packability into bike boxes, which few care about. 
If you were to buy say, a Craig Calfee carbon framed bike, it actually has a 
very similar geometry too the RB-1, and rides similarly, but of course being 
made out of carbon and with a short wheel base and relatively little tire 
clearance chances are that bike wouldn't appeal to the same people who like 
Rivendell bicycles.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 6:09:47 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

Oh I haven't the first clue how Grant does it. There's something going on with 
the numbers and tubes that makes them ride like a Harley Softail on the 
straights AND a Ducati Panigale in the turns. It's bonkers! 

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 5:51:31 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

You hit it on the head, Joe. Thanks for the thread. With all of your experience 
on a gazillion bikes, what do you think accounts for “the magical Riv ride he 
designs into these frames”? What makes it happen?




On Nov 16, 2022, at 5:41 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:


This is an edited version of an email I recently sent Grant, I wanted to post 
here cuz I think the magical Riv ride he designs into these frames is slightly 
under discussed..like we all know it and love it, then talk about other stuff 
like paint and parts. My comments are specifically about my custom but I've 
owned a bunch of Rivs and they all ride like this (Clem maybe not so 
light-feeling, but still zippy). Add your thoughts about your bikes! :
The handling is amazing. It feels light and zippy, yet absorbs shock (there's a 
lot of shock on these roads) and is very stable. When you put it in a turn it 
goes where you point it and holds the line until you change it. It does this 
when getting bumped offline, too..the darn thing pops right back to where it 
was going! I've ridden a bazillion bikes and nothing rides like a Rivendell 
Joe Bernard 


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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

2022-11-15 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Excellent...thanks for the report, Abe!

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 03:57:58 PM MST, Abe Gardner 
 wrote:  
 
 Schwable G-One Allround 700x50. Fits nicely, great for gravel and chunky 
pavement; very good on smooth pavement. Slight noise on pavement but only 
compared to Snoqualmie Pass (700x44mm) tire smoothness. I’d love to try Hatcher 
Pass (700x48mm smooth) next but thes G-One Allrounds are super (and cheaper by 
a small bit vs. Rene Herse tires).
I’m running them with tubes that have some Stan’s sealant inside - never a flat 
but currently a slow leak that probably resolved with the sealant since my 
lunch time ride. 
Abe


On Nov 15, 2022, at 2:21 PM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 wrote:



 What tires are those, Abe?

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 01:17:34 PM MST, Pancake 
 wrote:  
 
 

I put albatross bars on my Charlie, mounted them upside down and raise the stem 
way high. This gives me a better grip towards the front of the curves of the 
bar, but I also put some bar ends at the most forward point, so they give a on 
the hoods type of position as well. very nice for pulling on and leading down 
into the wind. Open to suggestions on where to mount the shifters, they feel 
pretty good mounted towards the center. I’m really enjoying the bar is mounted 
upside down, it’s just a more comfortable way to hold in the curves. I am on a 
Nitto Technomic, 10 cm extension stem, this leaves the hand grips about level 
with the saddle at the maximum insertion point.
V- brakes! Switching to the albatross bars, with cheap, avid levers, and nice 
DRX brake arms improoves the braking dramatically. It’s really night and day 
compared to calipers or the short arm v-brakes I was using before. The stopping 
power both better modulated and much stronger. But the weird, unnecessarily, 
strong mechanical advantage of a short arm (85mm) V- brakes is gone. Long arm 
v-brakes are the only way to go. 
I’m sure I’ll shift the cockpit around but so far super happy with the change 
(from Soma Portola drop bars and TRP RRL brake levers  with lite pro short arm 
v brakes).

Abe

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is a Gus the right choice for me? Would a Platypus be better?

2022-11-15 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 What size, Jacob? XL? Do they have another one?!?!

On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 03:41:18 PM MST, Jacob Byard 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks for all the replies. I ended up going with a Gus. C Cycles out of 
Montreal had a frame in stock. I've been eyeing parts for the build all day. My 
parts stash is pretty full so hopefully things will come together quickly on 
the build. Thanks again for the help! 


On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 11:30:00 AM UTC-5 Mark Schneider wrote:

Country roads, sounds like the Platypus would be perfect. The Gus/Susie really 
is nice for washboard, and rough off-road rides, but rides great on the roads 
too. I have a large Susie, and I'm running Rene Herse tires, and I'm impressed 
with the responsiveness. It's very plush! Kind of wish I'd gotten the Gus, just 
because I've packed on some weight and there's a small drop-off I occasionally 
find myself going over. 

On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 7:44:14 AM UTC-8 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:


Thanks I’ll stop hijacking this thread and ask for more advice on a separate 
one.On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 8:38:48 AM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:

I’m running Albatross currently  it works well but I am looking for something 
with a little less rise and sweep. I may have to just bend my Albatross out a 
little and call it good. 
The bike itself is awesome. Coming from a Clem, which was too heavy duty for 
me, this bike feels more springy and lively. Rides fast on the road and tackles 
dirt roads and singletrack with ease. 
One knock I have is the fork feels a little stiff. I guess for heavier front 
loads. But I wish it were a little more compliant. Other than that, it’s a 
great bike. 

On Sunday, November 13, 2022 at 3:19:22 PM UTC-7 saxt...@gmail.com wrote:


What bars are you running on the Romanceur?  I was about to start a similar 
thread looking for advice and one of my shortlist choices was the Romanceur..so 
curious about your set up. On Saturday, November 12, 2022 at 8:32:37 PM UTC-5 
Hoch in ut wrote:

I’d agree Gus is not the right bike. Neither is a Clem. Riv rates them the 
same, as far as durability. 
There’s been some good suggestions already. 
I’d offer a non-Riv option: Crust Romanceur. Light, lugged frame. 853 steel. 
650b x 2.4” clearance. In my opinion, perfect for the ride that you describe. 
Mine rides light and springy (mine is the canti version). 
On Saturday, November 12, 2022 at 6:55:02 AM UTC-7 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:

I've got the new bike itch and have shortlisted a Gus or possibly a Platypus. 
The Gus has called to me for a couple of years but something or other always 
came up. 

The purpose of the new bike would be mostly to ride 25-35 miles on paved 
country roads. I live in central Pennsylvania and most of the unpaved stuff is 
rougher than I care to ride. There's trails that I do ride but any bike with 
45mm tires can handle that. Once a month I'll do a 50-60 mile ride. 

I do C level group rides but nothing over 12-13 mph. Frequent in town rides to 
get food/ coffee. Maybe some overnight camping. My solo riding usually sits 
around 11 mph unless I'm in a hurry. 

My torso and arms are long so reach has always been an issue. I know the Gus 
has a long toptube and I think the fit would be a bit better. I'm not a fan of 
super upright positioning. My hand/ wrist got broke in a fall last year so I 
like bars with lots of sweep (Jones Loop is wonderful). 

Gearing and tires being equal would the Gus perform as well on the road as the 
Platypus?  

Thanks for the help! 

Cheers,
Jacob








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Re: [RBW] Re: Toothless/smooth large chain wheel dummy

2022-11-14 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Thank you for intel, Bill! Exactly direction I was looking for!
Warmest regards,
Scott

On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 01:58:20 PM MST, Bill Lindsay 
 wrote:  
 
 The options include:
-buy a guard-make a guard from a donor chainring-use a narrow-wide ring an 
don't bother with a guard-don't bother with a guard and don't bother with a 
narrow-wide ring
One popular source for the "buy a guard" option is BBG.  They are MUSA and 
cheap as heck.  https://bbgbashguard.com/shop  When they list the "size", it's 
the number of teeth that particular guard will cover.  For your 1x application, 
you may be able to get away with going a little bit bigger.  "too big" would be 
when the chain rubs the chainguard when you are in the smallest cog in back.  
If you want to make a guard from a donor ring, it's common to use a ring that 
was 4 or 5 teeth bigger than the ring you'll actually be using.  Some people 
break the teeth off and file what's left.  Some hacksaw the teeth off and file 
what's left.  Others file from the start.
Good luck with your build
Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA

On Monday, November 14, 2022 at 12:38:00 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:

Hi, all:
I'm running XTR M900 triple cranks, 74/110 BCD, and want to do a build 
utilizing middle ring only, a 1 x 8.
What's options are out there that would replace large chain wheel with a 
toothless/smooth dummy wheel?
Thanks in advance!
Scott 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Ride Your Rivendell: White Pine Trail, Grand Rapids, MI

2022-10-28 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Approved! Lovely fall colors...and good fellowship. The good life...

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 7:37 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding 
Ding! wrote:   We had a fantastic ride today, in peak 
color and with awesome people. More on that later. But for now: 

On Friday, October 14, 2022 at 7:46:18 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

I hope to see a lot of you and your lovely Rivbikes tomorrow. And if there 
would just be one RivSister in the bunch I would be so happy. 
But, if not, I’ll represent. 
Leah

On Friday, October 14, 2022 at 7:00:20 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

I sent you a PM…

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 14, 2022, at 6:27 PM, Conway Bennett  wrote:



Is there a contact list going into tomorrow?  My number is 239.877.4119, and I 
intend to depart Chicagoland ~5 AM tomorrow.  See y'all tomorrow!



On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 2:41:10 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

<>>>
First, a caveat: This ride is not affiliated with Rivendell Bicycle Works; we 
are a group of Rivendell owners who want to ride our bikes together. Organizers 
are not liable for bodily injury or damage to your bike. If you are comfortable 
riding at your own risk, then:
Join us on the famous White Pine Trail near Grand Rapids, Michigan for a ride 
through Michigan’s fall foliage. The date is quickly approaching; here are the 
details so you can make plans to attend.
When: October 15th, 10 amWhere: Dwight Lydell Park in Comstock ParkWhat: a 32 
mile ride, round trip. Ride to Cedar Springs with lunch in Rockford on our way 
back.
If you choose to make a weekend of it, there are many National and state 
campgrounds within an hour of the park. If weather does not cooperate, this 
ride is rescheduled for Oct 29th. 
This is our 2nd Rivendell Ride of 2022; the first was in Kalamazoo, MI on the 
KalHaven Trail. I hope to see familiar faces and new in Grand Rapids on 
Saturday. 




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Re: [RBW] Who is getting a Platypus?

2022-10-28 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Joe:
I talked to Riv earlier this week about purchasing an Atlantis and posed a few 
questions about F/F prep. I'm not here to make a blanket statement about how 
all F/F are handled before they depart Riv, but I was told they receive the 
Atlantis F/F with headset already installed and that a F/F I purchase would not 
have the hanger checked/aligned before sent to me. My "guess" is they may not 
even unpack the F/F when they receive it. There wouldn't be any reason for them 
to open it up, if nothing is to be done on F/F. Maybe they are so busy it's 
easier to just place a new shipping label on the box and out it goes. I live in 
rural Montana and am a little bummed I have to travel a good distance just to 
ensure hanger is properly aligned after spending $1750 on a new baby. And I 
would doubt the threads are chased.
Nothing whatsoever against Riv, just an observation. Seems it should be part of 
the frame making process to quickly verify proper hanger position somewhere 
between frame build completion and paint. I'm going to travel and pay to have 
it done, anyways.

On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 08:21:39 PM MDT, Joe Bernard 
 wrote:  
 
 Are these frames being sold as unprepped? I'm not clear on where they are with 
that now but it would certainly slow down my "buy" finger if I knew I still had 
to install the fork, adjust the headset, chase the threads and check the 
derailer hanger adjustment. 
Joe "I don't know how to do the last two parts" Bernard 

On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 6:52:23 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

I imagine quite a few have sold but Riv not being able to offer many complete 
builds may be reducing sales. Hopefully they can get caught up on the backlog 
of builds in the queue. And, the Rosco version of the Platypus was just 
released recently so that fulfilled some people's wish for a mixte type road 
bike.Doug

On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 7:13:17 PM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:

It would seem that demand is mirroring that of the housing market.  Decidedly 
cooler than 12 months ago when Platys and house listing were sold out in mere 
hours. 

On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 2:34:14 PM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

I think they will sell pretty quick but not as lightning fast as they did 
during the pandemic.On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 4:13:58 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume 
wrote:

There is still one Rosco Plat in 60cm of each color available, so maybe supply 
and demand are balancing out. At least for the taller folks. 
Eric

On Monday, October 10, 2022, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  
wrote:

I can never tamp down my excitement over the Riv mixtes and have given up 
trying. I’m SO excited that there is a paddle of Platypuses on the water, 
heading to Rivendell as I type this. I remember the excitement of the 2020 
Platypuses (which were delivered in 2021); they were gone in minutes. 
Heartbreak and jubilee ensued and then came the waiting. 
But the wait is nearly over because the presale is the 19th. I’m keen to know 
if these will sell out as quickly or if demand and availability will have 
evened out by now. 
Who is purchasing a Platypus? 
Leah





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Re: [RBW] Re: Front low rider rack for Sam Hillborne

2022-10-10 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Bob:
Have you tried the Tubus Grand Expedition front rack? It's not a tiny rack. 
I've been running it for dirt touring/bikepacking and am very pleased with it 
(as well as the rear counterpart).
Good luck in your search.
Scott

On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 04:15:44 PM MDT, BobW  
wrote:  
 
 Thanks for the input.  Ideally, I'm looking for a rack where the attachment 
point align with the standard Riv braze on point at the dropout and mid-fork.  
It appears that the Nitto Mark's MF2 rack that Rive carries works, but is kind 
of pricey @ $221 
(https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-marks-hub-area-rack-with-hoop-mf2-20236?_pos=6&_sid=f551ef3e9&_ss=r)So
 looking for less expensive alternatives to this.  Thanks!!

On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 10:36:29 AM UTC-4 brianmark...@gmail.com wrote:

Not that it's entirely helpful, but when I had a buddy add canti posts to my 
Sam for a 650b conversion, I also had him add lowrider bosses for a Tubus Tara. 

On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 9:13:45 AM UTC-4 captaincon...@gmail.com wrote:

Here's how I did it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQ6G2tBKHaWeErrr8
I never really used it, but I don't like racks and prefer large front handlebar 
bags.

On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 4:55:28 PM UTC-5 BobW wrote:

I'm considering taking my Sam on some bike tours so looking into from lowrider 
rack for front panniers.  I already have a rear Tubus rack, so would be wanting 
to utilize the low riders for additional panniers.  Looking for suggestions for 
proven solutions that fit the same well.   BTW, my Sam is a non-canti model - 
sidepull calipers.
Thanks!!




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Re: [RBW] Are Paul brakes worth the money?

2022-09-25 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Frankly, this thread is a great discussion full of sound points...educational

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 7:50 PM, rltil...@gmail.com 
wrote:   I have never used any of Paul’s brakes surprisingly. It’s surprising 
because I have no problem spending money on things that are better/more 
advanced than what I need. 
For me, I think (maybe wrongly) that I can get 90% of the braking that Paul’s 
would provide at a fraction of the cost by using other brakes. I have Avid 
linear pull brakes on my Hubbuhubbuh and have no problem stopping quickly when 
needed.  
The aesthetics are also a factor. The industrial look of most of Paul’s brakes 
looks out of place on more traditional bikes to me.
I think one day I’lll buy a set of Klampers to test them out. I don’t think 
they will be a revelation compared to the TRP Spykes they would replace on the 
bike I have in mind but they will definitely look better.
Robert TilleySan Diego, CA

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 25, 2022, at 10:52 AM, Bill Fulford  wrote:



I was recently gifted $500 to Rivendell. My plan was to upgrade my 2007 
Atlantis with Paul brakes and levers. I placed the order only to read later 
that the brakes are sold per wheel. That’s  more than I wanted to spend. So 
before I call Rivendell tomorrow morning to cancel I’m wondering how folks feel 
about these brakes? I would be ordering the linear pull brake with love levers. 
Are they worth it?

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Coach Flyer's Revenge / Zami inflatable air travel pillow

2022-09-16 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Thermarest sells one. I just used mine in mountains last night while tent 
camping. It works well.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 9:20 AM, Tim Tetrault wrote:   
Hello RBWOB,
Does anyone recall from Rivendell Reader 41 the inflatable travel pillow that 
Riv used to sell? One of the few items made in PRC that Riv may have ever sold?
I can't find these anywhere, but I'd buy your old one off of your for a 
reasonable price. 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/pdf/RR41_web.pdf (page 9)

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Doldrums

2022-09-07 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
 Jay:
I must say I found comfort in you sharing your state of doldrums. It's 
comforting knowing I'm not alone. I'm 53 and have been in same state for a few 
years now. It's unsettling. I have to really push to scare-up desire and 
passion towards hobbies/adventures that used to be abundant and readily 
available. I develop levels of self-frustration because I'm largely a content, 
happy person. That is to say, I have much to be thankful for and don't struggle 
to make ends meet. Before this spell I always found joy in the contagious 
nature of my enthusiasm towards my recreational activities. Where it went 
exactly, I don't know. Simply said, I'm not a depressive person, so it's not 
that. I'm a productive person. It's just that I've noticed I have more of a 
"chore" view towards considering new adventures. I look back at the level of 
effort and enthusiasm I used to put forth into planning, prepping for, and 
successfully completing adventures and it tires me out.
For me, I think it's a phase in life thing: kids moving on to start their own 
lives, career, monotony, etc.Again, I've had a great life: much to be grateful 
and thankful for. I resigned from a long-held position 4 months ago and have 
been intentionally unemployed since, taking some time to refocus. I find the 
enthusiasm and passion cups gradually refilling.
Anyways, I don't want to ramble on. But I felt compelled to reply. You're not 
alone. It's a life philosophy tour. For me it's a lot about the unsettled phase 
in life I find myself in and locating the desire/courage to MAKE change in the 
interest of destroying monotony.
I never regret partaking in my hobbies: gravel rides, dirt biking, wing 
shooting. I just get frustrated being the impediment to doing same.
Over the past few months, I get the feeling it's beginning pass, which is 
welcome.
Best of luck my friend! Everyone has to deeply consider their own sources and 
solutions. Force yourself to do what you KNOW you love. Recognition is a great 
start! I'm getting better at conquering myself.
Best,
Scott in Montana 

On Tuesday, September 6, 2022 at 11:52:57 AM MDT, Jay Lonner 
 wrote:  
 
 Over the years my cycling has increasingly tended toward commuting/utility. 
Bike-centered vacations/tours remain on the menu, and are still very enjoyable 
to me, but the day-in, day-out feels like a chore. Part of this is seasonal — I 
have an easier time dealing with cool, wet conditions than hot, sticky weather. 
So maybe this problem will solve itself with the autumn rains imminent. But I’m 
wondering whether others ever get a case of cycling burnout, and maybe have 
some tips to work through it.
Jay LonnerBellingham, WA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell and Planing - proof?

2022-08-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Unless an 800lb gorilla was previous owner, that's concerning, for sure. If 
it's a result of tube bending, I would think evidence may exist elsewhere; as 
tube bending likely would also occur at junction of DT/BB shell, DT, and/or 
junction of DT/HT.I'm curious as to source of paint being ground off, too. Some 
relation to cracks?!
Do tell:)
Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 9:34 AM, Brian Turner wrote:   
Wow. That is interesting. Maybe a bit concerning?? So, did you grind the paint 
off in those sections just to see the extent of it, or are you planning to try 
to repair the paint job?

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 5:38:03 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:

That's what you get for catching big air too many times!  Perhaps the real flaw 
of step-through designs is that the generous standover height (read: 
low-consequence crotch clearance) encouages aggressive rididing or attempting 
of tricks.  In seriousness, it's oo bad you don't/can't  know the real history 
because anything else we offer would be speculation.  Still... knowing myself, 
that WAS something I intuitively worried about when i opted for the high-bar 
(clem) version.  I didn't/don't have the same concern with the gus/susie 
hillibikes.

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 6:54:08 PM UTC-6 Mike Godwin wrote:

Dramatic for sure!
Mike SLO CA
On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 3:15:37 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:



I recently acquired this orange Clementine. We all know early generations paint 
are negotiable. However, I find the crack patterns quite interesting. 
Obviously, given the cracking location and direction leads me to believe that 
this puppy planes! Move over kasai tubing. 
*note. hint of satire here. but also am curious about the flex quality of step 
through frames. I've found them to feel as spritely as anything. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

2022-08-29 Thread 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch
Maybe shifter itself or cable interfacing with shifter is jacked?Both front and 
rear?Plenty of bikes out there running smooth with cables running along bar 
bends.That's frustrating. Hope you find source.You've started process of 
elimination. I'd continue that path...Good luck!Scott

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 27, 2022 at 2:46 PM, Ben Adrian wrote:   
Scene report!
To the Riv out for an urban cruise today. Shifting was still terrible. I did 
some tests while riding where I just leaned over and pulled on the shifting 
cables between the stops and the bottom bracket. The shifting was really 
smooth. So it must be the cable going through the handlebar bends while under 
load/tension. Around the circle I continue to go...
On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 6:38:13 AM UTC-7 Bill Schairer wrote:

Having ridden for years with a front handlebar bag, I guess I'm just used to 
pushing the cables from the bar end shifters one way or the other to mount or 
unmount the bag.  That said, I now run my Atlantis with a DT front shifter and 
bar end rear shifter for two reasons unrelated to cable/bag interference - for 
some reason, my left hand is less tolerant of the shifting motion required for 
the bar end shifter than my right and, on past tours, my front derailleur has 
at times become balky in dirty conditions which I attribute partially to the 
derailleur spring having trouble overcoming the additional friction caused by 
dirty cable housing.  I find the front shift much more reliable and quick with 
less effort with the DT shifter.  On a two month tour just completed, I had 
zero troubles with front shifts despite lots of gravel and rain whereas one 
week tours on gravel of past with bar end required daily lubrication and 
exercise of the front derailleur and still things could get balky.  For 
whatever it is worth, a couple of the guys I toured with used brifters and 
suffered from similar issues.  The downside was the double shift to or from the 
granny was not nearly as smooth as with two bar ends but at least they always 
did happen.  I just don't worry much where I've got to push the cables from the 
bar ends. I have another bike with two bar ends and a bag which works just fine 
for me on day rides.
Bill S San Diego

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 2:44:26 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

I love all the replies and knowledge here. It's pretty fun.
I did a little test. I put my RD in the biggest cog. I then shifted all the way 
down to the smallest cog without pedaling to put slack in the cable. Then I 
pulled the cable tight at the downtube. Then I shifted back up to the biggest 
cassette without any derailleur spring tension in the way. It actually felt 
pretty smooth. I never did this test BEFORE this routing, so I have no control, 
though.
I will say that just a couple days before I ran new cable that I put a 
derailleur hangar extender on the rear so I could go up to a 32t rear cog with 
my Ultegra 6500 derailleur. It works fine, but I wonder if some of the shifting 
resistance is more about making larger cog jumps and running my derailleur out 
of spec, and not entirely cable friction. Also, I've been running the bike in 
indexed mode.

So, step 1 is to go to friction mode and hang out on the smaller side of the 
cassette; see if it feels any easier. If so I'll have to figure out where to 
go. If not...Step 2, try the long floppy cable thing.Step 3. consider Tiagra 
4703 and a 4700/5800/6800 long rear derailleur. I have a 2x10 4700 setup on a 
budget carbon road bike and it was actually pretty good. It looks like they 
have a 3x10 lever setup. I know that RD can handle a 34, shifts smoothly, and 
is easy to set-up. Plus a 10s cassette will still fit my older wheels.

Or I just go back to a high end, ratchet, downtube shifter and learn to love it 
;) Keep this circle going!
By no means should this kill the conversation, though. Chat away!
Cheers!Ben

On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 12:15:35 PM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:

Ben: I will add my 2 cents: we are big bar-end fans - they are on the bikes 
that have drop handlebars.  We only go friction - not indexed, so YMMV.  We use 
front racks and Wald baskets, and yes, depending upon your specific setup, the 
pair of long "U" cable and cable housing can get in the way.  Try routing the 
big U's under the Mark's rack and then zip-tie them to the rack so they are 
somewhat stationary.  Finally zip tie both U's together so they act like a 
single unit.  Yeah, it looks clunky but it might help keep those big U's under 
control.
Good luck,
JeffClaremont, CA

On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 6:48:00 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey all! Just looking for some gear chat.
I have a Rambouillet with drop bars. I'm finally getting everything 
comfortable, but I've been around the block with my shifters.
My bike came with 8 speed bar end shifters. However, when I did my first 
configuration I mounted them on the downtube. They worked great. It