[TANKS] Re: T093 Rebuild

[Doug Conn]

Very nice !

I've been wondering about 3d printing the molds directly, as opposed to 
printing a master part and then making a rubber mold. If the mold was 
printed in PLA and waxed and treated with mold release, do you think cast 
parts would come out OK ?

On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 7:23:41 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:
>
> Hey everyone! Hope you all are doing well and staying safe. Things have 
> been a bit quiet here for quite some time. Lately I've been working on 
> rebuilding my M22 Locust into a working tank again. Two days of hard 
> battling (her first battle) in Gettysburg brought out a lot of 
> shortcomings. The major ones were poor power, weak tracks that broke a lot 
> of teeth off, and 3d printed sprockets and idlers that didn't take the 
> stress well. So, to fix all that I'm installing 250w M01 motors, casting 
> plastic tracks, and making new sprockets and idlers out of plywood. 
> Attached are a few pics of my progress. I hope to post more updates here 
> frequently to hopefully get some conversations going and maybe motivate 
> anyone that's building a tank out there. Maybe we'll have a battle this 
> year.

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[TANKS] Re: 1/6 Stuart to M8 Howitzer?

[Doug Conn]

As far as the hobby is concerned, it's perfectly fine if the tank barrel or 
projectile is out of scale. You can install a standard paintball marker and 
be fine. We all use them. In fact, a scale cannon would have to be 100mm+. 
That's uncommon for most tanks, especially older ones. 

If you want to make the scale correct for your own preference, that's a 
different story.

Do you have a link to the Stuart chassis you mentioned?


On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 1:58:33 AM UTC-4, Weston wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> I am picking up one of those 1/6 Stuarts pretty cheap since it doesnt work 
> (missing the transmitter) amd the guy has had it for 3 years amd hasn't 
> touched it. 
>
> I know there have been a couple conversions to shoot 40 cal paintballs, 
> bit I was wondering if it was possible to swap the turret out for the M8 
> with the 75mm Howitzer, so I could use standard sized more readily 
> available paintball stuff. 
>
> I'd definitely need a lot of expert help.on this, I think first step would 
> be to get the chassis running with a 12v SLA battery and  a flysky 
> transmitter. Get a couple ESCs and figure out how to mis the channels.I'm 
> not too worried about any sound or smoke, just want a working tank that 
> shoots paintballs.
>
>

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[TANKS] Re: Exploration into use of FDM 3D printing to facilitate ease of entry into the hobby of 1/6th scale RC tank combat.

[Doug Conn]

Several of us have used FDM parts in our vehicles. Caleb had built a 
Stewart that that had a lot of FDM construction. In general, that technique 
is suitable for components that aren't subjected to high stresses. You may 
be surprised what a beating our tanks take out in the rough.

I can't imagine why someone would print their own servo or motor. There are 
too many reliable, low-cost alternatives out there that meet our needs.

I have been using my 3D printer lately, but it was to build a plug for a 
turret fiberglass mold. It's been very slow going to prepare the plug! 

On Monday, March 23, 2020 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-4, ~D wrote:
>
> The most likely reason for this hobby becoming so sparse is not lack 
> of interest,but availability and expertise. Implementation of simple 
> pre-designed Lego like parts that are easily printed and assembled into a 
> variety of vehicle designs may bring this amazing hobby back into the 
> light. Cost reduction and simplification of assembly should be priorities 
> to this end. The use of Fused Deposition Manufacturing [FDM] integrating 
> ready available sub-assemblies to create drive units and actuators is 
> becoming more readily available. These larger sub-assemblies have highly 
> reduced cost,as well as near infinite compatibility with existing models. 
> Drive units,suspension modules, turret slewing and elevation systems as 
> well as brackets,ammunition feed systems and exterior cosmetics can all be 
> printed using this hybrid technique. Below you can find a summery of my 
> ongoing preliminary investigation into the use of such hybrid manufacturing 
> for my own future model of an STRV 103 series,with the intent of increasing 
> performance and decreasing both complexity and cost through the use of such 
> hybrid sub-assemblies as well as 3rd party research and improvements in 
> this and other hobbies in regards to design,construction,drive systems and 
> accuracy improvements in CO2 and HPA markers. Feedback on first hand 
> experience is welcome.
>
>
>- weather resistance of PLA - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU
>- use of First Strike ammunition in conjunction with rifled barrel - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky2gRvlXyts
>- in field dispersion testing of First Strike ammunition - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5hj5ch65jY
>- use of Caliburn piston HPA system to increase fps consistency over 
>long duration engagements -  
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJawWukCiLc
>- high torque resilience of non carbon enhanced FDM planetary 
>reduction gearboxes - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6cDOyxub8w
>- example of proper integration of off the shelf parts into FDM design 
>- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARC0Y1lBliA
>- use of ODrive FDM brushless servo controller - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ltHDpxrbI
>- example of FDM suspension scheme identical to RIPSAW M5 - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hre_XfxGAc
>- testing of ODrive torque - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKqYYjGzpCY
>- Maker Muscle in conjunction with ODrive (example of high precision 
>and torque elevation actuators) - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-bgA7qBXzs
>- use of planetary gearbox in conjunction with ODrive brushless servo 
>- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0yX0r1Kpeg
>- ODrive in conjunction to FDM Cycloidal gearbox - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tST3XyFaBoc
>- OpenTorque Actuator in conjunction with higher torque brushless 
>motor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hd54ik_45Wo
>- ODrive powered tracked vehicle under load - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEw5_thTD6o
>- use of ODrive in larger scale RC - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z10OV4fm4Nw
>- further torque testing of ODrive - 
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhJa8kdkzRY
>- FDM brushless motor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFvMC3l3fGY
>
> ~D
>

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[TANKS] Re: where is everyone?

[Doug Conn]

I still check in now and then. Haven't had much time to work on tanks, but 
I'm starting to feel the itch returning.

On Monday, October 21, 2019 at 5:52:27 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
>
> i have only seen maybe 3 or 4 people posting in here over that last few 
> months?
>
> so where is everyone?
>
> still there but life getting in the way? gone off to some FaceBook page? 
> or just given up on the hobby?
>
> chris
>

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[TANKS] Re: Armored Car classification

[Doug Conn]

>From http://www.rctankcombat.com/rules/



   1. *Asset Categories*
   For classification purposes, the following asset categories are defined:
   
   *Category* *Description*
   *Tank* Any fully tracked vehicle
   *Armored Car* Any fully or partially wheeled vehicle
   *Field Artillery* Any fixed or movable piece of artillery
   *Rocket Launcher* Any movable piece of artillery which fired rocket 
   propelled rounds from one or more tubes
   *Infantry* Any soldier carrying a hand-held rocket launcher
   *Support Vehicle* Any type of un-armed vehicle used to move equipment 
   and supplies, including trailers
   
   

So, anything with wheels and not tracks.

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 7:13:03 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:
>
> I have a question for those in the know (whoever that may be). I'm 
> wondering what exactly qualifies as an armored car. Is an armored car a 
> vehicle that was considered an armored car in reality, or is it any vehicle 
> that carried a weapon larger than a machine gun?
> Inquiring minds want to know.
> Thanks,
> Agent "Smith"
>

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Re: [TANKS] Raspberry Pi + Linux + Xbox360 = new prototype vehicle

[Doug Conn]

>>  Wiesel?
Wow ! Great guess. The Wiesel was definitively on the short list. The track
and road wheel arrangement fits. But . no.

>>  attachment chain with really nifty home made pads
Thank you. It is attachment chain, with track pads (aka 'grousers')
designed by me and injection molded by Stephen Morgret at
http://www.strikemodels.com/.

He's an occasional visitor to these forums and a good guy. Stephen also
helped me to import a bunch of that attachment chain from China. The plan
was to produce 20-30 or these track sets for sale, but life intervened. It
may still happen.

I did make an important step forward on the mystery vehicle regarding the
attachment chain tracks. I put a small return roller just before the drive
sprocket. It helps keep the chain centered on the sprocket.

  - Doug


On Wed, Apr 4, 2018 at 4:57 PM, Deceased  wrote:

>
> Wiesel? Really like the tracks - can't tell if they're commercial items or
> attachment chain with really nifty home made pads.
>
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Raspberry Pi + Linux + Xbox360 = new prototype vehicle

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Frank.

>>  What's the effective range of the Bluetooth controller?
I was amazed how far it worked. I have a small yard, so I couldn't do a 
definitive test. At most, I was probably 40m away and it still worked fine.

>> Also like the use of the Maestro to offload servo and ESC control
I tried generating servo signals via software (under Windows IoT, though). 
The results were not stable enough to use. I had already written a Maestro 
driver for Windows IoT, so it was easy enough to port that over to Linux. I 
plan to use a stepper motor for turret control, so I'll still need to 
generate those control signals on the CPU.

>> "Media error: Format(s) not supported or source(s) not found"
That's weird. Anybody else getting this error ? My plan is to consolidate 
all my various tank/robot/hardware/software stuff onto that WordPress site. 
I'm not sure how far to go though.

  - Doug

On Sunday, April 1, 2018 at 9:20:41 AM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>
> Nice work, Doug. What's the effective range of the Bluetooth controller?  
> Also like the use of the Maestro to offload servo and ESC control. The 
> hobby electronics world has come a long way since T001 was built.
>
> On Sun, Apr 1, 2018, 9:13 AM Doug Conn <dwco...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello -
>>
>> I've been working on a new vehicle for a long, long time ! I finally have 
>> the control system and a prototype chassis running. It's a small hull with 
>> an on-board Raspberry Pi running Ubuntu Mate and driven with an XBox360 
>> Bluetooth controller. 
>>
>> Check it out here:
>> http://agilebotics.net/mystery-vehicle/
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug
>>
>>
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RE: [TANKS] An Era is OVER!

[Doug Conn]

The R/C Tank Combat public has a right to know this important information !

 

If it weren’t for patriots like Caleb ‘WikiLeaks’ Smith, TriPact big-wigs and 
their corporate cronies would their iron fists to grip their iron brooms and 
sweep this information under their iron rugs.

 

-  Doug

 

From: 'wsmontg5' via R/C Tank Combat [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 8:59 AM
To: Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com>
Cc: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] An Era is OVER!

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: wsmontg5  > 
Date: 2/18/17 7:10 AM (GMT-06:00) 
To: Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com  > 
Subject: RE: [TANKS] An Era is OVER! 

It shouldn't be "your humble informant " it should be criminal because your are 
leaking TOP SECRET material. PUFF will breaking down the barn door soon. The 
drones are already circling and the Smith Clan's compound the leaking will come 
to an end.

 

Your Penn State Professor 

 

 

This was all detected using Tri-Pact's HUMINT and COMINT services. 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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RE: [TANKS] 3D printer CAD

[Doug Conn]

I’ve been using Autodesk Fusion 360. It is free, full-featured, and pretty easy 
to use.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of isaac goldman
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 11:59 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] 3D printer CAD

 

Autodesk inventor. You can legally get it free they want you to use it so 
badly. Its reasonably easy to learn, and very powerful 

 

On Nov 1, 2016 11:44 AM, "neroc1"  > wrote:

i have had a 3D printer for a few months now, although I can print either ABS 
of PLA, my ability to create from brain to reality is somewhat limited , after 
seeing some amazing printed work on here ( Niels Erik especially ) Im am quite 
convinced my problem is software. I have been trying to use google sketch up 
but i find it complex and tricky to use. I have tried to use a simple CAD 
called "tinkercad" but its not accurate enough.
What 3D  CAD software are people finding useful ? 

Thanks for any advise.

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RE: [TANKS] Panther gearbox

[Doug Conn]

Nicely done. Pretty compact.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of 1
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2016 2:14 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Panther gearbox

 

Only one minor modification. Moved the gears away from the motors for better 
chain alignment. 

Will

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RE: [TANKS] Churhill or grant

[Doug Conn]

>From section 1.2 of the rules (http://www.rctankcombat.com/rules/) 

"Models of vehicles that carried more than one main gun may be equipped with 
multiple paintball markers, provided that only one marker fires per operator 
firing motion."



-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, September 3, 2016 11:50 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Churhill or grant

How would tanks with to guns, such as a grant or a mk1 churchill fit within the 
rules as a tank is defined as having one gun. 

Stewart

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RE: [TANKS] motor choice

[Doug Conn]

I use these in Bad Kitty, and that tank can go pretty much anywhere. The motors 
have a lot of power.

I have a pair of these motors for sale. They are unused. I'll even throw in two 
#35 sprockets that Frank made to fit these motors, a matching set of #35 
sprockets, and some #35 chain. Let me know if you're interested.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 12:01 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] motor choice

Would this be an appropriate motor?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/24-Volt-350-Watt-Motor-Gear-Reduction-Razor-Dirt-Quad-Scooter-24V-350W-U-ST11-/151952094210?nav=SEARCH

Thanks

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RE: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Will. I bought a couple from there, but those were the ones that 
required a connection to each cell in the pack. 

 

This one 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__83328__Turnigy_3_In_1_Battery_Monitor_Signal_Loss_and_Lost_Airplane_Alarm_AR_Warehouse_.html

Looks like it measures the whole pack voltage. Maybe I’ll try it.

 

-  Doug

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of 1
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 9:21 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

 

Hobby king sells battery alarms. 
Will 

 

On Aug 25, 2016 9:06 PM, "Doug Conn" <dwconn...@comcast.net 
<mailto:dwconn...@comcast.net> > wrote:

That’s right, Joe. The cells in the battery packs are connected by four of 
these:

 

http://www.batteryspace.com/Smart-LED-Balance-Module-for-3.2V-LFP-Cell-with-250mA-Balance-Current.aspx

 

They do NOT guard against over-discharge.

 

I’d like to add a programmable battery voltage alarm. I’m having trouble 
finding a small one that doesn’t need to be connected to each cell in the pack. 
I’ll need to measure the output of the entire pack and alarm on that. I tried 
adding wiring to each cell and it did not work out well.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com <mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com>  
[mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com <mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> ] 
On Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 8:05 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat <rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
<mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> >
Subject: Re: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

 


On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 9:46:41 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

I got my 12.8v LiFePo4s from here: 
http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4-prismatic-battery-12-8v-20ah-256wh-10c-rate-24-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx
 

Doug,

Is there a charging system on a small board in the top of the plastic case?
It appears that you can connect directly to the positive and negative terminals
of the four cells in series but does not show any connections to intermediate
cells to monitor balance during charging.

If there is a board, it does not provide low voltage cutoff because the 
description
warns to not discharge below 10V which is below the recommended 2.8V per cell
minimum for LiFePO4.

Joe

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RE: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

[Doug Conn]

That’s right, Joe. The cells in the battery packs are connected by four of 
these:

 

http://www.batteryspace.com/Smart-LED-Balance-Module-for-3.2V-LFP-Cell-with-250mA-Balance-Current.aspx

 

They do NOT guard against over-discharge.

 

I’d like to add a programmable battery voltage alarm. I’m having trouble 
finding a small one that doesn’t need to be connected to each cell in the pack. 
I’ll need to measure the output of the entire pack and alarm on that. I tried 
adding wiring to each cell and it did not work out well.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 8:05 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

 


On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 9:46:41 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

I got my 12.8v LiFePo4s from here: 
http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4-prismatic-battery-12-8v-20ah-256wh-10c-rate-24-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx
 

Doug,

Is there a charging system on a small board in the top of the plastic case?
It appears that you can connect directly to the positive and negative terminals
of the four cells in series but does not show any connections to intermediate
cells to monitor balance during charging.

If there is a board, it does not provide low voltage cutoff because the 
description
warns to not discharge below 10V which is below the recommended 2.8V per cell
minimum for LiFePO4.

Joe

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RE: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

[Doug Conn]

I got my 12.8v LiFePo4s from here:

http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4-prismatic-battery-12-8v-20ah-256wh-10c-rate-24-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx

They also offer some 24v packs if you want save some space:
http://www.batteryspace.com/256vlifepo4batterypacks.aspx

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2016 7:02 PM
To: tank club 
Subject: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

Okay tankers,

I’m interested in getting my M60 back on the road, but lighter. Based on the 
discussion at the last battle, I would be interested in looking to replace my 2 
SLA 12v 18Ah batteries with LiFePo4. Recommendations for sources of LiFePo4 and 
Ah that would work for the typical 1 hour all-out racing I would want to 
conduct?

Paul

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RE: [TANKS] Rookie primer

[Doug Conn]

And, of course, my personal favorite R/C Tank training video. I think you’ll 
get the message.

 

https://youtu.be/9-tyopRZeug?t=103

 

 

From: 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat 
[mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 8, 2016 9:09 PM
To: Digest Recipients 
Subject: [TANKS] Rookie primer

 

Since we have quite a few new rookies this event, I felt I should share some 
footage of some veteran advanced battle techniques. 

 

To set the stage. Game was Capture the Flag.  There was an impassable river 
between the bases with only 1 river crossing guarded by artillery and hand held 
rocket launcher. You had to gain control of them  first before you could 
venture into the OPFOR area. 

 

We had achieved that goal and had advanced into OPFOR territory.  I was engaged 
quickly. The OPFOR vehicle already had 2 prior hits, in yellow, on it's side.  

 

His attack is shown in real time, and then in slow motion.  All rookies should 
practice teasing the opposition by presenting the vulnerable flank and quickly 
removing said target as your opponents then wastes shots.

 

advanced manuevers2  

 



 







   


advanced manuevers2


Capture the flag game2015 . Last opponent. Need 4 side hits to kill. Already 
has 2 yellow. My hits are in white.



 

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[TANKS] Gettysburg weather

[Doug Conn]

Looks like thunderstorms in Gettysburg on the battle weekend:

 

https://weather.com/weather/tenday/l/USPA0604:1:US

 

 

I hope this forecast is wrong, but should we talk about what happens if
there are storms ? We have people travelling far. Is this a "rain or shine"
event ? If there's rain, I guess we can always sit around and at least talk
about tank battles.

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: August Battle

[Doug Conn]

Joe, I’ll bring buns and condiments along with the hamburgers, hot dogs, and 
chicken breasts.

 

Can we use the farmhouse fridge to store the meat on Saturday night ?

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 6:01 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: August Battle

 



On Monday, July 25, 2016 at 8:45:07 PM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

The August tank battle in Gettysburg is a couple weeks away and we'd like to 
get a good count on the number of people coming so we can bring the right 
amount of food and drinks. So, if you are coming to the event, please reply to 
this post with the total number of people coming with you.


Joe Sommer will attend.

I will bring paper products including plates, utensils, cups, napkins,
trash bags.  I can also bring condiments and/or buns and/or ice if we 
do not have other volunteers.

I will inquire if the old grill works.  If not, someone will need to bring 
a small propane grill.

Approximately 16 people can sleep-over at the farmhouse
including sleeping bags in the family room.

Easiest hotel access is at the Route 30 exit for I-81
at Chambersburg.  Hotels in Gettysburg are expensive and
may be booked.

We do not broadcast the location to respect privacy of the owners.
Please send a private email to  > for 
directions.

Joe

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[TANKS] suggestion to help newcomers

[Doug Conn]

I mentioned to Tracy that the upcoming battle could be the largest ever. She
had a good suggestion. Tracy had a hard time knowing which tanks were on her
team and which were on the other team.  Consequently, she only shot at ME
but that's another story. Most R/C Tank vets know each tank and its owner by
sight, so we know who our teammates are.

 

Folks new to the battle scene will not. I remember a friendly fire incident
a couple of years ago when Mark (a first time battler) took out a teammate.
Tracy suggests that we mark each tank or operator on one team with some sort
of marker. I was thinking maybe a strip of distinctive duct tape. Fitting,
huh ?

 

What do you think ?

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: loader design

[Doug Conn]

Your loader looks like it works great. If the paintballs shoot, then it works 
great ! That’s the whole goal, right ? It looks like you have a great shop set 
up, too.

 

I can’t really see how the design operates in the video, though. What’s being 
elevated ? Also, be aware you’re limited to 40 paintballs in your hopper for a 
tank.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Mitch Anderson
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2016 9:41 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: loader design

 

Nice job RocketMan,   I also struggled a lot with the "Low Profile" problem.  
Finally I made an elevator + vibrator system, it works OK, 
I am an Arduino fan, so my system is run by a Arduino Mega 256

check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OIHvei0bwg

I can hardly wait to see yours at the battle.  I hope you come.

mitch

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 8:45:19 PM UTC-7, RocketMan wrote:

Hello –

 

A couple of weeks ago John asked what we’ve been up to. My work has been insane 
during the last year, but I’ve had a little time to work on a new project. It’s 
a marker and loading system that I plan to install in Small Fry. Someday. I was 
shooting for a low-profile, small system. Here are a couple of videos.

 

https://youtu.be/oh6uJ9zMPOk

 

https://youtu.be/Ot8O-nX3qCI

 

The videos show an early test of the loader system. The marker is a Dangerous 
Power E1. A stepper motor pulls back a ram using a rack and pinion mechanism, 
allowing a paintball to fall into a loading chamber. The stepper motor then 
advances the ram about 75% of the distance used to cock it. At that point, 
power to the stepper is cut and a spring moves the ram the rest of the way and 
applies pressure to push the paintball into marker when the bolt opens. I may 
be able to use a standard DC motor instead of a stepper (similar to how an 
airsoft gun cocks and loads), but I need some kind of clever clutch to slow the 
ram so it doesn’t puncture the paintball. The stepper gives me a lot of fine 
position control.

 

For elevation, the marker pivots on the feed mechanism, so there’s no issue 
with mis-alignment of the feed port at different elevations. The whole system 
is currently driven from a Raspberry Pi2 running windows IoT. There are 
SUPPOSED to be IoT X-BOX 360 wireless drivers available so I can control the 
whole tank from a 360 controller. Those drivers are bugged right now, though. 
If someone wants to help me re-write them, speak up ! 

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] August Battle

[Doug Conn]

Doug: 2 

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 8:45 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] August Battle

The August tank battle in Gettysburg is a couple weeks away and we'd like to 
get a good count on the number of people coming so we can bring the right 
amount of food and drinks. So, if you are coming to the event, please reply to 
this post with the total number of people coming with you.

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RE: [TANKS] Re: snow

[Doug Conn]

Wow ! Very nice !

 

What motors and gearing do you use ?

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2016 7:51 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: snow

 

Hope it's not too late to help out??!! 

Since here in Quebec we had more rain than snow, I just finish my tank with 
some extras!!

I can do a lot of things with it rigth now and battling is one!!!

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snJhKhA91N0

Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre

  _  

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2016 14:54:37 -0800
From: teddyascame...@live.com  
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  
Subject: [TANKS] Re: snow

Late response: 

BWI (8 miles from us) has a new record, at 29.2 inches.  The mound at the base 
of our driveway was about a car-width from snowplowed-ice to curb, and 
waist-deep.  We took two days to shovel out to the road, and it was still too 
iced-over for anything but a 4WD.


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RE: [TANKS] stepper motors

[Doug Conn]

I ended up using a small stepper with a gearhead. A custom ring gear would have 
been a great alternative, too !

I use a Pololu driver with an adjustable drive current and an enable/disable 
line that I can toggle via an I/O line. So, I can power the driver off when I 
want to. My plan is to keep the driver current at a minimum. Not only will that 
minimize the battery drain, but it will allow the turret to rotate freely when 
Joe runs into me. :)

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Sam D'Haene
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 7:39 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] stepper motors

Hi Doug,

Stepper motors have very high torque rates and cheap drivers. But a constant 
current draw makes them very unefficient in a mobile applicaltion. A dc motor 
(without closed loop control) doesn't require power at standstill. A 
steppermotor always draw full (or half current) to generate the holding torque. 

Sam 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Markers

[Doug Conn]

I wondered what happened to that WIP tank.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 11:22 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Markers

 

Tank hull for sale .Includes upper and lower tread molds and some already made. 
8 Wheels and axles with steel framework welded by Frank. $150 plus shipping. 

 

Will Montgomery 

 

 

 

Sent on a Virgin Mobile Samsung Galaxy S® III

 

 Original message 

From: Caleb Smith 

Date:11/03/2015 9:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: R/C Tank Combat 

Subject: [TANKS] Re: Small Markers 

 

"if you manage to fit a full sized marker in 8 and 1/4 inch, then well done 
you."

I 'hope' I can fit it. It is going to be tight. I'm using a CAD program to see 
how thing will have to be positioned.  I'm also looking into possibly having 
the suspension plasma cut.  If I can get it cut, the suspension will mimick the 
real deal. If not, I have a more simplified suspension in mind that will be 
easier to produce but will only look like the real deal, not work like it.

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RE: [TANKS] New Track System

[Doug Conn]

Looks great !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joshua Updyke
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2015 6:49 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] New Track System

 

Hello all,

 

I posted a while back and you all were very helpful with details about how 
continuous track systems work. I wanted to share my progress. If anyone is 
interested you can check out the official website here:

 

http://www.tankchain.com/shop/

 

and if you want to see the development blog you can see it here:

https://hackaday.io/project/6106-modular-continuous-track-system

 

There is some good information about casting rubber parts there that I think 
could help.

 

Josh

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RE: [TANKS] Been away for a while, too...

[Doug Conn]

Welcome back, Fred !

 

Sounds like you have a lot of new toys to play with. Are they all going into a 
new T-34/85 ?

 

>> A raspberry PI 2 for onboard hot spot and video capture

I’ve been playing around with a Raspberry Pi2 as a controller for Small Fry, 
too. I think they have potential.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Fred Thomson
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2015 7:02 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Been away for a while, too...

 

Hello...

 Life has decided to cut me some slack and quit interrupting me, thus allowing 
me to enjoy some quality tank building time.

 The Northern Barbarians Centre for Advance Research and Development is again 
running at 100% efficiency. The  CARD has received several major upgrades in 
the proto-typing department:
1. A milling machine and training on its use has begun.
2. A router and router table.
3. A new band saw which can handle light steel.

The Barbarian Espionage and Sneaky Stuff, Eh (BESSE) has infiltrated the 
heathens to the south and procured the following:
1. A C12C 
2. a Sabertooth 2x32 (max 64amp) regenerative ESC.
3. 30 ft (That's 9.144M for the rest of us) of 2060 attachment chain [Note: the 
Purchasing Dept had heart failure at the cost and threatened reduced funding.  
They were bribed with dinner and dancing.]
4. A raspberry PI 2 for onboard hot spot and video capture
5. A new (to us) Tippman Marker
6. 30 five inch metal wheels with hard rubber outers, bearing and 1/2" bore
7. A boat load of new stuff from our secret on-line source; High torque servos, 
mini servos, PS2 game controller(s), LED's, cameras etc, etc, etc...

I think I see a new T-34 in the works. :-)

We pause now while Tri-Pact and PUFF faint. Winter is coming and the Barbarians 
will coming howling down out of the north...

Cheers,
Fred

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[TANKS] great products

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

I discovered a couple of great products that make tank wiring a lot easier.
You may already know about these.  The first one is a soldering aid that
holds wire or connectors in place for soldering. I've tried some different
alternatives for this, including that jig with articulated alligator clips.
This little thing is the best by far. It's the best $8 tool I ever bought !

 

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25167__Mr_Grippy_Soldering_Jig.ht
ml

 

I just started using this Dean's Ultra Wire and it's great ! I used to just
go to Home Depot for wire, but no more. This stuff is much flexible and
easier to use. It's not particularly cheap, but you don't really need a lot
of it.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
 =LXKX17

 

Hobby King has general purpose silicon wire, which is probably identical to
the Ultra Wire. They have a better selection and prices, but I can run down
to the hobby store for the Ultra Wire.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__466__377__Hardware_Accessories-Si
licon_Wire.html

 

-   Doug

 

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] Successor of Talon

[Doug Conn]

>> Yeah I have 2 Victor 883s in my Sturmtiger.

Me too.

 

I picked up a couple of Victor SP ESCs for Small Fry (link below). They are 
only 12v, however.

http://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/motors-electronics/217-9090.html

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Derek Engelhaupt
Sent: Thursday, October 8, 2015 7:45 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Successor of Talon

 

Yeah I have 2 Victor 883s in my Sturmtiger.

My KV-2 has a Vantec RDFR36.

I have another set of 883s in the M113.

I will admit though I bought most of my ESCs used which you can't do if you are 
selling them to someone else.

Derek

On Oct 8, 2015 6:27 PM, "Ben Holko"  > 
wrote:

Yes there are two of these in the tank 


  _  


From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com   
[rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  ] on 
behalf of Loic [l...@fieldofarmortanks.com  ]
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 10:15 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Successor of Talon

Ben,

The link you added is for a $190/ESC Victor 883 system. Do you truly put two of 
these ESC in your tank? I’m trying to go cheap and I’m already complaining of 
the $90 Talon SRX which does not give me much more than my old $60 Talon SR. 
I’ve used 3 or 4 Talon SR in each of my tanks. Using FOUR $190 ESC would be 
$760 of ESC in each tank!

I was talking about the Pro Victor SP 
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-VICTORSP.html 

Loic

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] EPIC WEEKEND : Sunday morning pre battle preparations

[Doug Conn]

I think it was because the batteries decided to self-immolate rather than live 
any longer in that ratty old SU-100. :)

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2015 10:19 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] EPIC WEEKEND : Sunday morning pre battle preparations

 

None of those were the cause either

On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 10:02:06 PM UTC-4, Michael Butts wrote:

Overdrawing the battery. Using too much amperage will destroy cells. Also a 
hard impact of something inside the tank. Or exposed wire(s) that allowed the 
battery to be shorted. Perhaps a battery connector with the male end soldered 
to the battery instead of the female end. 

Mike B


On Aug 24, 2015, at 6:41 PM, 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctank...@googlegroups.com javascript:  wrote:

I'll let Will fill in the technical details as to the type and voltage of the 
LIPO cell.

 

So, for those who were not there Sunday, can you tell us why the cell caught 
fire.

The were properly charged, installed, and then the SU100 was driven, carrying 
equipment over 100 feet to the battle prep area..  It was resting when the POP 
was heard..

 

  

 https://youtu.be/CU-0n9rYrh8 how did this happen


 


 

 https://youtu.be/CU-0n9rYrh8 

 

 

 

 

 


 https://youtu.be/CU-0n9rYrh8 how did this happen




 https://youtu.be/CU-0n9rYrh8 View on youtu.be

Preview by Yahoo




 



 

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RE: [TANKS] $1.398 ransom

[Doug Conn]

I’m in for tomorrow, 08-23. Tracy can’t come, though.

 

See you there !

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:04 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] $1.398 ransom

 


The first battle on Saturday 8/22 will start at 12:00 NOON
instead of the traditional start time.

Joe

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[TANKS] brushless motor questions

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

We've had a few discussions regarding brushed vs brushless motors. The most
important point I remember was that brushed and brushless ran at similar
energy efficiencies under load. I'm wondering about efficiency with respect
to size and weight. 

 

Let's compare this brushless motor

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXLWY0P=7 I=LXLWY0P=7

 

to this brushed motor

http://www.andymark.com/CIM-motor-FIRST-p/am-0255.htm

 

Both are in the 300 watt range. At 12v, the unloaded brushless motor,
rotates at 32k rpm and the brushed motor at 5.3k rpm. Of course, the
brushless motor would need a lot more gearing to make it usable in a tank.
That aside, could I expect roughly the same performance from both motors ?
It's hard for to believe that because the brushless motor is 1/14 of the
brushed motor weight and 1/7 of the volume.

 

Is there another factor (besides cost) I need to take into account when
comparing a brushed to a brushless motor ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Best Source for M01 Motors

[Doug Conn]

We've seen the occasional Abrams come and go.

I've always wanted to build a Bradley. I like the way it looks.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 9:53 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Best Source for M01 Motors

Plus it is American.  Other than Paul's Patton, there aren't any actively 
battling American tanks. Got to get some more of them out there. :-)

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Best Source for M01 Motors

[Doug Conn]

  I am considering building a M18 Hellcat in the future.

That would be good choice. Kind of boxy, simple road wheel arrangement, and 
reasonable size. That overhang on the back of the turret will be a challenge 
for you, but you can get it !

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 6:49 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Best Source for M01 Motors

Steve, as of yet, nothing.  I am considering building a M18 Hellcat in the 
future.

Doug, thanks for the offer.  I'm not looking to start buying components for my 
future tank for a while. :) Just looking to to see where the best prices can be 
got on them.  

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RE: [TANKS] Best Source for M01 Motors

[Doug Conn]

I have a couple I can sell you. Never used. I think I paid $65 for them, which 
is what you can have them for.

I'm also going to sell my SLA batteries. They're the standard 17Ah units that 
many of the tankers use. These batteries are well used, but I've never had 
performance issues with any of them. I maintain them with a good desulfating 
battery charger - a BatteryMinder. I may be persuaded to part with it, too. 
Anybody interested ?

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:16 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Best Source for M01 Motors

Title says it all.  

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RE: [TANKS] R/C Stepper Controller

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Steve !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 1:41 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] R/C Stepper Controller

 

For Doug

 

http://store.cunningturtle.com/products/radio-controlled-stepper-kit

 

 

 

ST

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RE: [TANKS] C12C question

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Joe. I’ll take a look.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2015 9:38 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Cc: urkil...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TANKS] C12C question

 


On Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 3:34:14 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

I found some differential equations describing paintball trajectory that 
include lift and drag. I need Tracy’s advice to help me translate them into 
code that will compute the marker elevation based on a target distance.

Search for topic paintball ballistics for fire control with laser rangefinders  
in this group.

I will look for code.

Joe

 

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RE: [TANKS] C12C question

[Doug Conn]

Oh well. Thanks all the same. It turns out that I made some changes during the 
last rebuild that will make this a little easier than I first thought. I’m not 
sure I’ll time to fit a replacement ESC, but I appreciate the offer.

 

Small Fry will be there, but without a turret. When I finally get it built, it 
will have one of these:

http://www.trossenrobotics.com/lidar-lite

 

-  Doug

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 10:36 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: Re: [TANKS] C12C question

 

Sorry, but there are no secret settings that can be controlled from the game 
pad like the old C6C. I had to eliminate that support in the software to make 
room for the extra features. I will be bringing a couple extra ESCs to the 
battle and you are welcome to borrow one if needed. Looking forward to seeing 
your new vehicle as well. 

On May 31, 2015 8:09 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net 
mailto:dwconn...@comcast.net  wrote:

Hello –

 

I’m getting Bad Kitty ready for next weekend and I see it’s developed an 
involuntary turret rotate condition. I suspect my turret ESC is going bad. 
Until I replace it, I wonder if I can adjust the trim of the controller to 
compensate. I know I can do this via the serial interface, but I’d have to 
disassemble part of the tank to get access to the C12C. Even then it would be 
hard to program the device while checking the turret for correct centering. 

 

Is there a way to set the trim from the PS2 controller directly ? Like 
double-secret set of magic button presses or something ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

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[TANKS] C12C question

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

I'm getting Bad Kitty ready for next weekend and I see it's developed an
involuntary turret rotate condition. I suspect my turret ESC is going bad.
Until I replace it, I wonder if I can adjust the trim of the controller to
compensate. I know I can do this via the serial interface, but I'd have to
disassemble part of the tank to get access to the C12C. Even then it would
be hard to program the device while checking the turret for correct
centering. 

 

Is there a way to set the trim from the PS2 controller directly ? Like
double-secret set of magic button presses or something ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Burnt out my Sabertooth

[Doug Conn]

Very fun video !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Cold comfort
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 10:15 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Burnt out my Sabertooth

 

Hey guys, about a month ago I decided to take out my 1/6 scale T34/85 paintball 
tank I built about 7 years ago. I charged up the batteries and while installing 
them I got distracted and hooked up the polarity wrong and fried my Sabertooth 
2x 25 motor controller. I contacted dimension engineering and they said send it 
to them and they would check it out, so I did. They got back to me super quick 
and let me know it was not repairable. They then offered me 50% off any other 
of their products, which I took them up on and purchased the sabertooth 2x60 
dual motor controller. What great service I can't even begin to describe how 
professional they were and quick. 
They contacted me the same day I emailed them, they offered to check and repair 
if possible the old controller at no charge except mailing. When they let me 
know it could not be fixed, the same day they got it, offered a super discount 
on another and mailed it out the new one same day. On top of it all it was user 
error and it was over 7 years ago that I bought it. These days I am happy if 
the company is still around. What over the top service.
Anyway, while waiting for the new controller I decided to give it a new paint 
job and put in a 2.4ghz radio from hobby king.
After I got the new controller installed, my son and I decided to make a video 
of it. so here it is, hope you enjoy.   
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.png 

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agcG41sjERQ 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agcG41sjERQ

Greg

On Monday, April 20, 2015 at 5:54:29 PM UTC-3, Cold comfort wrote:

Well it's been a long time since I posted here, but I still been watching now 
and then. I hadn't had my tank out (T061) for a long time so I thought this 
week I would charge up the batteries and see how it was working.

Well when I put the battery in and turned it on there was a little pop and 
sabertooth controller wasn't working ant more. When I checked things out I 
realized I had made the most rookie mistake I could make and had reversed the 
battery leads. I must be getting color blind. So I just emailed dimension 
engineering and they said to send it back for them to look at it.

So I have a question for you guys on here, this controller is about 7 years old 
though not heavy used, have I missed much in the world of motor controllers, 
the rc robot market place still carries them so they must be still a viable 
option, would any of you have better suggestions, it still seems like a good 
bang for the buck. 

I may even build another tank, something German perhaps, so many options

 

Greg

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RE: [TANKS] My build ARV BTS-2 scale 1/8

[Doug Conn]

That level of detail and your craftsmanship is simply amazing ! It’s an 
incredible build. Truly beautiful work.

 

What gearbox did you use ?

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of dubok78
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2015 5:21 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] My build ARV BTS-2 scale 1/8

 

Hello.

 

I want to show the production of the model tractor BТS-2 on a scale of 1/8.

 

I lay out a link to a gallery with pictures and video. 
http://postimg.org/gallery/4kifqe9q/

 

If you have questions on specific details, ask, I will answer to all concerned.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vhLVa-gaqM

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlmhU_ADNGs

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Sneak peak at Zeke

[Doug Conn]

Do you have any torque measurements for it ?

 

Does it use the Arduino PID controller you were working on ?

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2015 8:45 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Sneak peak at Zeke

 

What's it for?  To point stuff, with authority!   ;-)

 



On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 8:30:57 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

Very cool and very interesting, but what is it for?

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 7:41:52 AM UTC-4, TyngTech wrote:

Latest from TyngTech labs, the ZekeTec Zombie Turret 3000.  Still have to 
finish the tripod and get it over to the controls sub-contractor for systems 
integration.  The turret will be at the 2015 MD Robotfest on the 25th.

 

 http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag419/stevet44/IMAG0273b_zpsflgrk5se.jpg 

 http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag419/stevet44/IMAG0273b_zpsflgrk5se.jpg 



 

 

 

 http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag419/stevet44/IMAG0273b_zpsflgrk5se.jpg 
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RE: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

[Doug Conn]

My mold is re-usable with a little repair. I'll try putty in the corners if I 
do a second hull. Thanks, Frank.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 11:42 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Small Fry fiberglass hull

I can assure you that your first-time result is *FAR* better than mine (for 
which no pictures will ever be found on the Internet ;-)  Good job.

Those corner voids are usually not caused by improper rolling, they are usually 
caused by the material/resin pulling away from the corner because of surface 
tension during the curing process.  That's where an initial bead of epoxy and 
filler (glass fibers, micro-balloons, wood flour, saw dust, kevlar pulp, etc) 
is used.  Mix the putty to a consistency of a creamy peanut butter. Just put a 
small bead of putty in the corner after spreading the initial coat of epoxy on 
the mold, but before laying in the first layer of mat.  The putty will squeeze 
out as you roll the mat in, but it will always fill the corner, producing a 
sweet edge when you pull the part out of the mold.  I use kevlar pulp almost 
exclusively for that purpose, because it yields a rock-hard, extremely durable 
corner.  Don't take too long spreading the putty and laying the first layer, 
because the putty cures faster than resin by itself.

With regards to filling the voids.  If you used epoxy resin for the molded 
part, then just create a putty from the same epoxy resin using a filler (see 
list above).  Epoxy always sticks to itself.  If you used molding polyester 
resin (which does *not* include wax), then both epoxy and polyester putty will 
work fine for the filler.  If you used standard polyester resin (the stuff 
from auto parts or marine stores) it contains a wax to help it cure. So, 
you'll need to rough sand the void to remove the wax layer before filling will 
either epoxy or polyester putty.  (FYI: Bondo is a polyester putty).  When 
making your own putty, mix it to a consistency of a stiff peanut butter.

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RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Doug Conn]

Those ships are really beautiful.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 2:22 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

Laying fiberglass inside a positive part for reinforcement is a good approach 
in a lot of cases.  That gives you all the strength of a composite part, but 
eliminates the need for lots of finish work.  It also allows you to use thinner 
hull materials that are easier to work with.

All of my wooden sailboat hulls are made like that,

http://pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Wasa/index.html

http://pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Junk/index.html

providing a plank-on-frame exterior, with a strong and waterproof interior. The 
wood exterior is sealed with any number of materials (resin, titebond, 
polyurethane) and is essentially waterproof, but the epoxy-glass interior 
guarantees hull integrity even as the wood ages and gets beat up.

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RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Frank. Fiberglass 101 is the level of instruction I need.

Stu, yours is a good idea, too. There are some thin vertical 'skirts' around 
the bottom of the VPX-5000 and I'm not sure they'll take much abuse without 
being glassed over. Still, I already have both the 'positive' upper hull (the 
one I was going to glass over) and now the 'negative' upper hull (for the 
mold). I didn't have anything to do with the positive piece, so I went ahead 
and glassed the inside. Maybe it will give a me spare hull. At the very least I 
got some practice with layup before I make the molded hull.

  - Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 1:06 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

You don't wait any time between layers.

1) Spread resin on the mold

2) Lay in the first layer of mat.  Stipple with brush or use a resin roller to 
push the mat into the resin until it is all wet.

3) Lay in the second layer of mat.  Use brush or roller to push into first 
layer.  Brush on some additional resin as need (sparingly) to fully wet second 
layer.

4) Lay in the final layer of cloth.  Use brush or roller to push into the 
second layer.  You shouldn't need any additional resin for the last layer, but 
brush in more if necessary.

In general, you want to use as little resin as possible to wet out the 
mat/cloth.  Resin doesn't add any strength, just weight and bulk. Use firm 
pressure on the roller to push mat/cloth through the resin to remove bubbles 
and ensure full saturation.

The most important thing is to remember that polyester resin cures much faster 
in the cup than on a flat surface.  It's always better to mix a couple small 
batches then one large batch.  At room temperature, it takes a good half-hour 
before the resin in the mold will start to cure enough to cause problems, so 
you've got time to mix, lay up and roll each layer.  Don't rush, but don't 
spend too much time on each layer. 
Practice makes perfect.

Always cut all of the mat/cloth pieces that you'll need before mixing any 
resin. Set the pieces in the dry mold and make sure they cover all the flat 
surfaces.  Leave about an inch extra over the edges of the mold, no more, no 
less.  Too much or too little excess will cause problems.  Also, don't try to 
use one piece to go around inside or outside corners.  Cut separate pieces that 
meet in the corner.  When you brush/roll the layer the fibers will meet in the 
corner and form a nice edge.  Always brush/roll towards the corner.  The 
mat/cloth moves and stretches in the direction of pressure.

Some people lay a wet putty of resin and a filler (loose fibers, sawdust, 
kevlar pulp, etc) to reinforce the corner.  But, since the putty is 
concentrated it cures faster then the straight panels, so you have to lay up 
mat/cloth over the puttied corners fast enough to prevent them curing too 
early.  You probably won't need putty for your turret corners because they are 
fairly shallow, but it's a technique you'll want to learn for more complicated 
molds. Practice makes perfect.

On 3/22/2015 10:26 PM, Doug Conn wrote:
 How long should I wait in between successive layers of cloth ? I do 
 not want the first layer to completely cure before adding the next, 
 right ?

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RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Doug Conn]

How long should I wait in between successive layers of cloth ? I do not want 
the first layer to completely cure before adding the next, right ?

Thanks.


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Doug Conn
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 1:43 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

Thanks a lot, Frank. I didn't realize it would be so hard to glass over the 
hardboard. I thought about making a mold but it seemed like a waste or effort 
if I only wanted one part. Your idea of a single use mold made from the 
hardboard structure is a great one. I think building a box strong enough to 
press the glass into without breaking might be hard, but I'll give it a shot.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 10:43 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

Warning: If you glass the outside of the hardboard it will require a lot of 
time to yield a nice, smooth finished surface.  First of all, multi-faceted 
surfaces need to be laid up in multiple passes, because it is hard to cover an 
outside corner without creating bubbles (surface tension is your enemy when 
laying up fiberglass).  With your turret, minimally 3 lay ups would be 
required.  Second, after the lay ups, you'll need to sand/fill multiple times 
to get a smooth, metal-like, surface.

Personally, I would use the hard-board to make a one-time negative mold and 
then lay up the fiberglass inside the mold form to make an all-fiberglass part. 
 The result will be lighter, will provide more interior room, will be 
completely waterproof and will require less sanding on the finished surface.

Basically, just make your hard-board box so that the interior surface of the 
form is the desired exterior measurement of the turret. 
Hard-board is great for molds, because it is easy to work with and has a nice 
smooth finish.  For flat sections, place reinforcing ribs on the outside as 
needed so that you can press on those sections when laying up the glass without 
them flexing.  Tack nail or glue them in place.

After the box is built, coat the inside with a couple coats of sanding sealer, 
with a very light sanding in-between each coat.  Then, rub on a couple coats of 
paste wax to seal it completely.  Finally, spray two light coats of PVA on the 
surface, allowing it to dry in between coats. 
  PVA forms a water-soluble film that makes it easier to release the part from 
the mold.  Your turret is simple enough that you might not need PVA, but it 
never hurts to use it.

For lay up, I always use a layer of mat against the mold, because it yields 
the best outer surface (no cloth pattern).  Then, another layer of mat to build 
up the thickness and finally a layer of cloth to keep things neat on the inside 
and add more strength. That's plenty strong for our purposes, especially given 
the structure of the turret.  If you think flexing will be a problem on a flat 
section (like the top), use carbon fiber cloth in those areas to stiffen them.

After the part has cured to touch, slowly pry it away from the mold, a little 
section at a time and it will eventually pop out.  Wash off the PVA residue 
with water, trim the edges and you should have a perfect turret.  You can then 
cut whatever holes are needed.

If you've never done a mold before, make a smaller version and learn on that.  
It's not as complicated as it sounds.  And, once you've mastered molding, your 
3D printer will become the perfect mold-making tool.

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RE: [TANKS] fiberglass question

[Doug Conn]

Thanks a lot, Frank. I didn't realize it would be so hard to glass over the 
hardboard. I thought about making a mold but it seemed like a waste or effort 
if I only wanted one part. Your idea of a single use mold made from the 
hardboard structure is a great one. I think building a box strong enough to 
press the glass into without breaking might be hard, but I'll give it a shot.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 10:43 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass question

Warning: If you glass the outside of the hardboard it will require a lot of 
time to yield a nice, smooth finished surface.  First of all, multi-faceted 
surfaces need to be laid up in multiple passes, because it is hard to cover an 
outside corner without creating bubbles (surface tension is your enemy when 
laying up fiberglass).  With your turret, minimally 3 lay ups would be 
required.  Second, after the lay ups, you'll need to sand/fill multiple times 
to get a smooth, metal-like, surface.

Personally, I would use the hard-board to make a one-time negative mold and 
then lay up the fiberglass inside the mold form to make an all-fiberglass part. 
 The result will be lighter, will provide more interior room, will be 
completely waterproof and will require less sanding on the finished surface.

Basically, just make your hard-board box so that the interior surface of the 
form is the desired exterior measurement of the turret. 
Hard-board is great for molds, because it is easy to work with and has a nice 
smooth finish.  For flat sections, place reinforcing ribs on the outside as 
needed so that you can press on those sections when laying up the glass without 
them flexing.  Tack nail or glue them in place.

After the box is built, coat the inside with a couple coats of sanding sealer, 
with a very light sanding in-between each coat.  Then, rub on a couple coats of 
paste wax to seal it completely.  Finally, spray two light coats of PVA on the 
surface, allowing it to dry in between coats. 
  PVA forms a water-soluble film that makes it easier to release the part from 
the mold.  Your turret is simple enough that you might not need PVA, but it 
never hurts to use it.

For lay up, I always use a layer of mat against the mold, because it yields 
the best outer surface (no cloth pattern).  Then, another layer of mat to build 
up the thickness and finally a layer of cloth to keep things neat on the inside 
and add more strength. That's plenty strong for our purposes, especially given 
the structure of the turret.  If you think flexing will be a problem on a flat 
section (like the top), use carbon fiber cloth in those areas to stiffen them.

After the part has cured to touch, slowly pry it away from the mold, a little 
section at a time and it will eventually pop out.  Wash off the PVA residue 
with water, trim the edges and you should have a perfect turret.  You can then 
cut whatever holes are needed.

If you've never done a mold before, make a smaller version and learn on that.  
It's not as complicated as it sounds.  And, once you've mastered molding, your 
3D printer will become the perfect mold-making tool.

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[TANKS] fiberglass question

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

I plan to make Small Fry's upper hull form glassed over 3mm hardboard. I've
only done a little fiberglass and that was quite a while ago. Can anybody
help me out with a few questions. A diagram of the upper hull is below.

 

 



 

* How many layers of glass should I plan on ? I forget the exactly
weight of the cloth I bought, but IIRC it's a medium weight material.

* My plan is glass over the whole thing and then cut a hole for the
turret. Does that make sense ?

* Any other tips ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Doug Conn]

Hi John –

 

I’m not sure if I’ll have two triggers or one trigger and a separate barrel 
selector switch. If I use two triggers, I can make sure they don’t fire at the 
same time via software.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 7:47 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 




On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 12:28:43 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

 My tentative plan is to mount two BT SA-17 paintball pistols 
(http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=BT+SA+17+Paintball+Pistol 
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=BT+SA+17+Paintball+PistolFORM=HDRSC2 
FORM=HDRSC2).

Very  nice Doug.  So, you'll have a left and right firing button? What will you 
do to prevent both from firing simultaneously?


 

. I also hope that having guns offset from the tank center line will help 
resolve those nose-to-nose standoffs in my favor :)


The Abomination is set off. Not much help in the nose to nose battles though.  
Does make shooting from the cover off a tree trunk pretty nice however.

If you do go with a spring loaded hopper I would recommend paintballs designed 
for those systems. They have a thicker shell
to reduce breakage in the feed tubes.

John Welcome to Lilliput P. 

 

  - Doug

 


  _  


From: Frank Pittelli frank.p...@gmail.com javascript: 
To: rctankcombat rctank...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:26:39 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

BTW: Where do you plan on mounting the paintball magazine?  Part of the 
trade-off of building really small vehicles is the chore of fitting 
everything into really small spaces.

 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Doug Conn]

Hi Steve –

 

Your picture shows a VPX-500, which didn’t make it into production. That’s a 
shame because the 5000 is much cooler looking than its older brother, the 
VPX-110. I’d prefer to model after the 5000 if the “tank authorities” will 
approve for a modest “consideration fee”.  Say, some form of alcohol ….

 



 

The 110 featured a turret with two Milan missile launchers. Still a tank by our 
rules:

 


Category 

Description 


Tank

Any fully tracked vehicle

 

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2015 5:18 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Cc: step...@strikemodels.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

Rocket launcher or turret?

 

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
 

 

 

 http://www.chars-francais.net/2015/images/stories/photos/vpx.jpg 



On Sunday, March 8, 2015 at 7:40:43 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

Check out the video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzng 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzngfeature=youtu.be feature=youtu.be

 

It’s the chassis for my new tank, “Small Fry”. It also shows a test of the new 
track system with attachment chain and injection molded grousers. It works 
great so far ! I was a little too aggressive and I got stuck in the deep snow 
and slush but it did great otherwise. I especially like that the tracks stay on 
without a lot of tension.

 

The tank is a VPX-110 from the late 70’s. The French exported a few to their 
customers, and also built a mortar carrier version of it.

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Doug Conn]

 Congrats on finding a tank even smaller the abominations dude.  

Thank you, that was my goal ! Seriously, I was very jealous when I saw Joe, 
Frank, or Paul pick up their tank so easily. You’ve seen Bad Kitty. I need help 
getting it into and out of my car, and I use a hoist to get it from the floor 
onto my workbench. I wanted something smaller and more manageable. I will miss 
the “go absolutely anywhere” factor, though.



A while ago somebody proposed a rule change that would allow players to build 
vehicles at any scale and give them defensive ratings based on their size. I 
think that’s a good idea. It would let people build the tank they want at the 
size they want. No more hunting for obscure tiny vehicles.

 

 Nice fabrication skills on display also.

Thank you again ! I especially appreciate that compliment from you because of 
your craftsmanship. This tank was new for me in that I used a CAD program, 
GeoMagic Design, for the whole thing. It made a huge difference. I wish I’d 
learned it years ago. It substantially cut down the trail-and-error iterations 
I would always go through before using CAD. I still had some screw-ups, but not 
nearly as many or as bad.

 

-  Doug

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2015 8:11 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

5000, 110, looks like the same vehicle to me.  Congrats on finding a tank even 
smaller the abominations dude.  Nice fabrication skills on display also.

 

ST

On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 7:50:54 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

Hi Steve –

 

Your picture shows a VPX-500, which didn’t make it into production. That’s a 
shame because the 5000 is much cooler looking than its older brother, the 
VPX-110. I’d prefer to model after the 5000 if the “tank authorities” will 
approve for a modest “consideration fee”.  Say, some form of alcohol ….

 

  
https://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/attach/f8d9f37b9fbd609e/image001.jpg?part=0.1authuser=0
 

 

The 110 featured a turret with two Milan missile launchers. Still a tank by our 
rules:

 


Category 

Description 


Tank

Any fully tracked vehicle

 

 

 

From: rctank...@googlegroups.com javascript:  
[mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com javascript: ] On Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2015 5:18 PM
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
Cc: ste...@strikemodels.com javascript: 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

Rocket launcher or turret?

 

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
 

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
  

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
  

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
 




On Sunday, March 8, 2015 at 7:40:43 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

Check out the video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzngfeature=youtu.be

 

It’s the chassis for my new tank, “Small Fry”. It also shows a test of the new 
track system with attachment chain and injection molded grousers. It works 
great so far ! I was a little too aggressive and I got stuck in the deep snow 
and slush but it did great otherwise. I especially like that the tracks stay on 
without a lot of tension.

 

The tank is a VPX-110 from the late 70’s. The French exported a few to their 
customers, and also built a mortar carrier version of it.

 

-  Doug

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
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http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
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RE: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

[Doug Conn]

 Offered for sale is close enough

 

Sweet ! I’m going with this one:

 



 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2015 10:33 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

Offered for sale is close enough. Go ahead and build the turret version. 

On Mar 9, 2015 8:23 PM, 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  wrote:

Doug,
 I think the 5000 would pass muster.  I read that it was available 
for purchase, just no one ever bought one.  Besides, be hard to keep loading 
those rocket launchers like Bazooka Joe .. LOL..   Looks sweet.  

John P.



On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 7:50:54 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

Hi Steve –

 

Your picture shows a VPX-500, which didn’t make it into production. That’s a 
shame because the 5000 is much cooler looking than its older brother, the 
VPX-110. I’d prefer to model after the 5000 if the “tank authorities” will 
approve for a modest “consideration fee”.  Say, some form of alcohol ….

 

  
https://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/attach/f8d9f37b9fbd609e/image001.jpg?part=0.1authuser=0
 

 

The 110 featured a turret with two Milan missile launchers. Still a tank by our 
rules:

 


Category 

Description 


Tank

Any fully tracked vehicle

 

 

 

From: rctank...@googlegroups.com mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com  
[mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Monday, March 9, 2015 5:18 PM
To: rctank...@googlegroups.com mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com 
Cc: ste...@strikemodels.com mailto:ste...@strikemodels.com 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Small Fry lives

 

Rocket launcher or turret?

 

 
http://www.jedsite.info/fulltrack-victor/victor/vp90_series/vpx-5000-milan/vpxmilan_001.jpg
 

 

 

 http://www.chars-francais.net/2015/images/stories/photos/vpx.jpg 



On Sunday, March 8, 2015 at 7:40:43 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

Check out the video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzng 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzngfeature=youtu.be feature=youtu.be

 

It’s the chassis for my new tank, “Small Fry”. It also shows a test of the new 
track system with attachment chain and injection molded grousers. It works 
great so far ! I was a little too aggressive and I got stuck in the deep snow 
and slush but it did great otherwise. I especially like that the tracks stay on 
without a lot of tension.

 

The tank is a VPX-110 from the late 70’s. The French exported a few to their 
customers, and also built a mortar carrier version of it.

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

[Doug Conn]

Looks like it’s coming along nicely. What size is it going to be ?

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2015 5:01 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

 

Worked on framing out the body today.

 

 

Front hood ready to be drilled and pinned. 

 

 

 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ve4bRPaSuNs/VPy1g105Z6I/AYU/DOTjrgyFiQ4/s1600/IMG_9174.JPG
 

Drilled and pinned.  If any of you are wondering, those are ship's rudders 
being used.

 

 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IvezGPHuNks/VPy2OkkSSmI/AYk/03pTZRuJa_s/s1600/IMG_9176.JPG
 

And cut.  Penny for size reference.

 

 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HoGrui8C1_Q/VPy2gjSo-7I/AYs/2PZYDB9jLB4/s1600/IMG_9178.JPG
 

On the frame.

 

 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rRRQi4j5lNI/VPy2s20CteI/AY0/Qw8KH0RrjcQ/s1600/IMG_9180.JPG
 

And the motors.

 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nA5jAykZPgQ/VPy2x3EoC7I/AY8/1I8nwcIOTDs/s1600/IMG_9181.JPG
 

 

When the hood is done it will be hinged to make it easy to take a peek and make 
sure everything is OK.

Caleb

 

 

 

 

 

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[TANKS] Small Fry lives

[Doug Conn]

Check out the video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzng
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYynSfIdzngfeature=youtu.be
feature=youtu.be

 

It's the chassis for my new tank, Small Fry. It also shows a test of the
new track system with attachment chain and injection molded grousers. It
works great so far ! I was a little too aggressive and I got stuck in the
deep snow and slush but it did great otherwise. I especially like that the
tracks stay on without a lot of tension.

 

The tank is a VPX-110 from the late 70's. The French exported a few to their
customers, and also built a mortar carrier version of it.

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Bare Bones 9K22 AA Chassis

[Doug Conn]

Wow ! That’s a beast !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Tyler Porter
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 8:09 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Bare Bones 9K22 AA Chassis

 

 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VwLBqJ1SmZg/VPEUVyR7SzI/AFM/mWgaUbYuBNg/s1600/IMG_20150227_190134094.jpg
 

Hi, i'm totally new to this, but i thought i would share my bare bones test 
chassis, for my future 9K22 Build , as it sits right now it weighs about 59kg, 
at ≈4.5 feet long and ≈2.5 feet wide. it likes to do monster truck style 
doughnuts if only one track is powered. it runs off of a single 08 civic car 
battery, and 2 winch motors that have had the planetary gears modified for 
higher speed, it is completely, (minus the 2 tension arms), made of steel. each 
track is about 25kg, i welded the steel plates directly to the roller chain and 
they have held up to quite the abuse so far only a few have come off in extreme 
tests,
Thanks for your time,
Tyler Porter

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RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[Doug Conn]

 drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side

Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has 
anybody done it ?

Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an 
R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. 
Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you 
feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this 
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the 
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along 
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end 
too.  Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed.  The motor even 
worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;).

Stewart

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

[Doug Conn]

I would love to see an M3 half-track out there !

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 9:01 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Expanding the S.C.C.'s Arsenal: M3 Halftrack Build

 

Motors and front wheels were ordered from Surplus Center; should arrive on 
Monday.  

If work progresses quick enough, this might be seen on the battlefield this 
year. :)

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 at 6:33:09 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

BREAKING NEWS

We have 
just received this report from our chief spy C S after sending him on 

a mission to 
investigate some strange sawing noises coming from the S.C.C's headquarters.

 

 General Goopinstopen,

 

Upon reaching the designated investigation point, I immediately found two 
guards in front of the gate.  I figured that this could be troublesome to me, 
but fortunately, they asked me if I was the chief inspector.  Thinking this 
would be an easy way inside, I answered affirmatively.  After making my way 
into the building, I saw Joshua S  bending over a scroll saw cutting a very 
large piece of wood.  Trying not to bring too much attention to myself, I just 
stayed in the doorway and proceeded to watch with fascination.  After he 
completed, he turned around and saw me.

 

   Ahh, inspector, I've been waiting for you to arrive.  

 

   Oh, sorry for being late, now what is it that you wanted me for? 

 

   Well you see, after the last battle I decided that I needed to be able to 
move around the battlefield.  My lack of mobility caused me to miss some very 
good shots. 

 

   Ahh I see! I replied.  

 

   So, I decided to build a vehicle so I can maneuver around the battlefield. 

 

In an effort to complete my mission, I asked him what vehicle he had decided to 
build.  

 

   The vehicle that I have selected to lead our forces into battle is one that 
has not been built yet.  It will have the mobility of a tank, but the speed of 
a truck. 

 

   Ok, I understand that, but what ARE you building?  

 

   This most wonderful and stupendous vehicle will be a M3 Halftrack! 

  

After that, he showed me the piece of wood he had been cutting when I came in.  
I then could see the resemblance.  

He then went on about what different components he was going to use, etc.  When 
he wasn't looking, I snapped this photo of the vehicle for you.

   

 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MxDc84RaeLE/VAuGvg4jqkI/ATk/6KrusZgfSUs/s1600/IMG_6990.jpg
 

I hope that this vehicle will not be as bad as he says, Sir, but we should 
definitely keep a close eye on that building.

 

Your humble servant,

C S   

 

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RE: [TANKS] on the topic of tracks, but not tanks

[Doug Conn]

Did you notice the link to the R/C Tank Combat tracks article on that site ? 
Near the bottom.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:44 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] on the topic of tracks, but not tanks

Here is a very interesting page i came across today. Love the 1939 track 
motorcycle. The German camo smart car/tank would sure beat winter tires.

http://pedal-dozer.com/

Stewart

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RE: [TANKS] 12 volt dimmer /motor control as speed control?

[Doug Conn]

I agree 100%.

If your goal is a working vehicle with an ESC, pick up a Victor, a Talon, or 
something equivalent. Operational vehicles can also be built using relays or 
with servos mechanically pressing manual switches. That technique hardly seems 
worth the effort, though, since you can now get a 60A ESC like this 
(http://www.andymark.com/Victor-SP-p/am-2855.htm) for $60.

If you're worried about the skills required to hook something like this up, 
don't be. Not only is it pretty simple, but many on this forum can help. Just 
don't listen to Paul. :)

- Doug

(I checked my notes, and it was Paul's turn for the cheap shot)


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 2, 2015 5:02 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] 12 volt dimmer /motor control as speed control?

I have a number of victor 883 Motor speed controls I would be happy to sell...  
 It doesn't get much easier than 4 wires and a signal line from the radio.  I 
was going to say  the cheap  solution almost never is... but that linked PWM 
motor control was over $200...

In all honesty... its much easier and cheaper to build  large scale RC car 
(tank)  today than it was even 5 years ago. The prices for hardware have fallen 
by 5 fold (10 fold on some cases, like a radio)  Battery technology is getting 
better and cheaper, and even   fractional horsepower motors are much easier to 
get from known sources instead of surplus.

I also have a small fab shop and would be happy to help people by making simple 
parts or modifications to existing parts (like boring out sprockets, making 
keyd shafts, etc)

Chewy
www.ttro.net 


 
On Mon, 2/2/15, Scott Ferron dirkpitt1...@gmail.com wrote:

 Subject: Re: [TANKS] 12 volt dimmer /motor control as speed control?
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Date: Monday, February 2, 2015, 8:25 AM
 
 The router
 speed controller for power tools has a larger electronics  protection area, 
and its only $50.00  On 2 Feb 2015 12:03,  srwh7...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 This may sound like a dumb question, and probably  is, but has anyone tried 
one of these or similar.
 
http://www.sailorsams.com/12-volt-Dimmer-9-20vdc--The-PowerHouse-12-volt-42-Amp-500-watt-PWM-Dimmer-with-rotary-dial_p_3205.html
 
 I am not a electrician (short
 of house wiring) so I am looking for a simpler sorta drop in  solution for a 
speed control. 
 
 Stewart
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
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RE: [TANKS] Re: The Micro Bandwagon

[Doug Conn]

I’m not worried. He’s probably still deciding what kind of wood to build his 
software from. :)

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 5:16 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: The Micro Bandwagon

 



On Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 8:57:16 AM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:

I'm now a Arduino dude!  As I type this, I'm staring at a little LED that that 
BLINKS AT MY COMMAND!

 
Oh, woe unto us!  Now we will be inundated with shoddy 
electronic devices from Anvilus, Cheap Control Systems 
AND Tyng Tech.

They say that every man has his price.  Apparently it only
took $14.98 to lure Steve to the Dark Side.

Joe



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RE: [TANKS] R/C Tank Combat Video Archives

[Doug Conn]

Thank you for taking care of all this for us, Frank.

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2015 5:33 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] R/C Tank Combat Video Archives

As part of the web site upgrade process, I've uploaded all of the video files 
from the web site to YouTube and created play lists for all of the events for 
which I had video.  The new videos and play lists can be found at:

https://www.youtube.com/user/rctankcombat

Most of the videos from that collection are from the earlier battles, before 
John started using YouTube.  For more recent battle footage you should visit 
(and subscribe to) John's YouTube collection at:

https://www.youtube.com/user/jplilycomet

Over time, John and/or I will create play lists for each event covered by his 
video collection so that it's easier to find things.

Enjoy.

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[TANKS] what cleaner ?

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

I'm cleaning and rebuilding the Bofors Gun and Bad Kitty's markers. Both are
covered in dried paintball gunk. Has anybody discovered a good cleaner to
remove that stuff ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[Doug Conn]

The “Marty’s Van” kill switch technique worked for me, too. It must be a magnet 
for out of control RCTC vehicles.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 11:45 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

 

All excellent points.  At our current mobilization level, a hobby 
standardized kill system is a moot point anyway.  Besides, the Cromwell's 
remote kill system has already been tested and validated.  I just have to make 
sure Marty's van is parked at the correct spot when something goes wrong!  ;-)


ST


On Monday, November 17, 2014 11:38:50 AM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:

Way back in the stone age, my doctoral thesis was on the design of 
fault-tolerant electronics.  A lot has changed in the 25+ years, but 
reliability theory hasn't changed much since Roman times when the 
historian Juvenal coined the phrase Sed quis custodiet ipsos Custodes? 
(i.e., But who will guard the guardians themselves?) and an anonymous 
sanitation engineer coined the phrase Custodite Hoc est simplex 
stultus (i.e., Keep It Simple Stupid). 

So, I ask the question: Is it more reliable or less reliable to add a 
secondary RC-based control system to a vehicle as a safety cut-off for 
the primary RC-based control system? 

Typically, the following topics are addressed when trying to answer such 
a question: 

1) Will the RC-based kill system handle all of the same fault scenarios 
as the manual cutoff system? 

2) Will the RC-based kill system introduce additional fault scenarios 
that must be handled? 

3) Will the RC-based kill system use electro-mechanical parts that are 
more or less reliable than both the primary RC-based control system and 
the manual kill system? 

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RE: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C MOSFET switch works fine

[Doug Conn]

 It even has a feature that allows you to restrict your firing rate to one 
 shot every N seconds.  I added that feature so that we can conduct the Doug 
 Experiment one battle to see how reduced firing rates affect the game.

From a few searches, it look like WWII heavy tanks had a rate of fire on the 
order of 6-8 RPM. The Abrams claims 8-10 RPM. I think it would be fun to play 
with values in that range.

Regarding single or multiple batteries - I've been using a single battery 
supply for the eight years (wow ! really ?!?!) I've been battling with you 
guys. Even with a computer and the marker electronics sharing the same ground 
as the motors, I haven't seen any issues. I do use opto-isolators on the marker 
triggering, however.


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 12:47 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C MOSFET switch works fine

Not only has it already been built, but that circuit was battle-tested in the 
SU100, Patton and Semovente during the last battle.  The board connects to the 
R/C receiver and directly drives the marker solenoid, as I explained in 
previous posts, exactly like an e-trigger.

It even has a feature that allows you to restrict your firing rate to one shot 
every N seconds.  I added that feature so that we can conduct the Doug 
Experiment one battle to see how reduced firing rates affect the game.

On 10/10/2014 10:50 AM, TyngTech wrote:
 What one of you E Guru's need to come up with is an R/C triggered 
 circuit that can directly fire the solenoid in a typical e-marker. 
 This bypasses the marker trigger board altogether. Loic's first combat 
 tank had such a circuit but it had the nasty habit of firing when 
 power was turned off. It was some sort of capacitor discharge circuit.

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Bad Dept Footage

[Doug Conn]

That’s a damn fine fence, though ….

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2014 7:18 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Bad Dept Footage

 

Caleb,
My apologies to your sis. So far I've downloaded over 3 hours of 
battle footage from the Go Pro tank cams. I've yet to even tackle what your sis 
took and what Chris sent me. 

Signora Pittelli (that's Italian for Mrs.Smith) has had Signor 
Pittelli ( that's me) busy with a beautification project for the Villa 
Pittelli.  Our split rail fence of 20 years did not fare well during this past 
winter.  Three posts snapped off at ground level and at least 15 rails 
collapsed.  So , as you can see in the pics, replacements are being installed. 
   And of course Signora Pittelli did not want new wood with the old 
posts, so, staining of all was part of the job. Another 10 more to install and 
then it is a spring project.
   So, not to worry, I'll finally have time to start making the 
highlight vids by next week-end ..

John 

On Tuesday, September 2, 2014 8:23:08 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

Hey, John, my sister was wondering how soon her battle footage will be on the 
web.  No hurry, just wanted to know. :)

 

Caleb

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RE: [TANKS] Re: power switch question

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, guys.

 

 Personally, I recommend the 75A push-pull switch from Robot Marketplace

 

I have one of these in my parts inventory. I’ll see if I can find a place for 
it.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 7:42 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: power switch question

 

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:06:07 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:

I’ve been thinking of using the external switch to supply power to relay 
windings and using the relay to supply the main tank power. What do you think ?


Doug and Frank, 

Using relays to control main power negates the concept of a 
true external master kill switch.  Rough battlefield conditions
could cause relay contacts to weld closed.

I require all of our student-built vehicles to have an external
master power switch.

Personally, I recommend the 75A push-pull switch from
Robot Marketplace.  It is relatively compact and has never
failed for us.  The only downside is that you might get accidental
shutdown by backing into an object.  Conversely if you get a 
runaway vehicle during testing, you simply swat it in the ass
with a broom. 
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SW75.html

That said, I have no problem for tanks in our hobby to use
relay kill switches.  However I recommend to include a true
master power switch somewhere albeit internal.

Joe




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RE: [TANKS] future RC Tank Combat vehicle

[Doug Conn]

Kåre Halvorsen (aka Zenta) is a regular poster on the Trossen Robotics forums 
and I’ve seen his morphing robots before, but I’ve never seen that video. 
Pretty amazing !

 

Can you imagine getting a paintball marker in there ? Good luck !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 2:01 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] future RC Tank Combat vehicle

 


Doug,

I recommend that PUFF should subcontract Kåre Halvorsen to install a paintball 
marker in his
latest creation.
http://www.industrytap.com/norwegian-engineer-creating-creepy-transformer-like-robots/19478

Joe



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[TANKS] power switch question

[Doug Conn]

I have a very basic question about the power switch for our tanks. The rules
wisely require an externally accessible switch that kills power to the tank.
I've seen those huge, ugly, battery kill switches with the giant red
removable key handle. Other than that, what's a good choice for a main
switch ? I'd like something a little more compact.

 

Normally this would be no big deal, but when you consider the currents that
flow through most of drive systems you quickly exceed the 30A capacity of
most heavy duty toggle switches. Bad Kitty just sort of ignores the switch
rating as I suspect many of the vehicles in the hobby do.

 

I've been thinking of using the external switch to supply power to relay
windings and using the relay to supply the main tank power. What do you
think ?

 

-  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Photos from last event

[Doug Conn]

If you can find the plans for an artillery piece, that’s great. They can only 
help. I have plans for the 88mm German anti-tank gun, for example.

 

I couldn’t find anything like that for the Bofors gun, though. I built it from 
the specifications, videos, and photos I could find.

 

If you can use a drawing program like Visio, you can resize an image of the 
piece to a known scale using the barrel length or some other specification. 
Afterwards, you measure individual components and a rough idea of how big 
everything should be. In the end, just do your best and try to make it close. 
It’s very challenging to turn a paintball marker into a perfect true to scale 
artillery cannon. Heck, if we were really sticklers for true scale, we’d toss 
out those funky PzII’s !!!

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Caleb Smith
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 3:26 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Photos from last event

 

I'm hoping I can get it done in time, but who knows.   I'm wondering, do you 
guys use plans to build artillery or just build it to look close?  I want to do 
a QF 3.7 in AA gun, but I can't find any sort of plans for one.

On Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:36:40 AM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

Excellent new Caleb. Be good to have you and the family attend again.. There 
should be plenty of assets to use if you're not able to finish your artillery 
piece. Building one of those will be will help when you decide to make a 
vehicle. After all, tanks and armored cars are just mobile artillery pieces for 
the most part.. See you in 4 weeks.  John 

On Saturday, July 19, 2014 7:27:48 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

Hey, John!  Sorry for not getting back sooner, my aunt was in from WI and I'm 
finally getting caught up on internet stuff.  

Looking at the calendar, we don't have anything planned for that date, so we're 
planning on coming.  Had a blast at the last event, so I'm really looking 
forward to this one.  I'm even thinking about building an artillery piece since 
I had so much fun with Doug's Bofors.

On Friday, July 11, 2014 9:32:00 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:



On Friday, July 11, 2014 9:38:13 AM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

 

 

More too come

 

@John:  I was talking to my dad and we would be very interested in coming to 
the battle and take some video.  Do you have a date yet?  

 

Yes Caleb. It will be  Sunday  August 24th at Gettysburg again. Would love to 
see the family again. 

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[TANKS] rule changes

[Doug Conn]

Hello -

 

I was rummaging through our old posts looking for the rule changes we
implemented at the beginning of the year. I couldn't find them. Can someone
forward me the information, please.

 

Was is it just these things ?

 

A) 4/40 for all assets

B)  Frontal hit exemptions for armored cars

C)  Speed rules to avoid super fast armored cars

 

Thanks,

Doug

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RE: [TANKS] FIRST RUN M4A1 GRIZZLY

[Doug Conn]

That tank looks fantastic !

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RE: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers ....

[Doug Conn]

Yeah  I guess I should have added a j/k or winky emoticon to keep this 
post from being interpreted as seriously as it apparently was. I was poking fun 
at the Cheap name aspect and the fact that Cheap Control Systems probably 
does not have

A) lawyers, or
B) a Cheap trademark

Future humor will be more conspicuously labelled.

- Doug


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 5:20 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers 

Nope, the C12C is still the one and only R/C system that uses a wireless game 
pad to provide short-range R/C control.  The AM-2520 is a re-branded Chinese 
system that is available for about $35 from their China distribution center, 
plus shipping and handling from China.  Glad to see that Andy Mark is stocking 
them, thereby making it easier to purchase them.

My legal team tells me, however, that the use of the word Cheap could be 
problematic depending on how it is used.  Our motto is Cheap Doesn't Mean 
Inexpensive  so it's probably not an infringement :-)

On 6/27/2014 12:10 PM, RocketMan wrote:
 Looks like a blatant trademark violation, here

 Cheap and Dirty Radio Control System (am-2520) 
 http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2520.htm

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RE: [TANKS] School battles , Long time coming

[Doug Conn]

That looks like a lot of fun. Were all those vehicles built by your students ?

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of neroc1
Sent: Sunday, June 8, 2014 11:02 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] School battles , Long time coming

 

its taken a while but the red tape has finally been severed enough at my school 
for me to show the world this little movie-

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsU0YwsWiWM

 

 

The battle was titled The Great Out Doors, as its our first venture to battle 
in the fresh air.

I have lots of footage of this and other battles fought on school grounds but 
this is the only one posted to youtube at present.

Im not permitted to post footage myself, it all has to be done by a designated 
member of staff and she informs me she is very busy, its a pain but perhaps a 
necessary pain. The kids make me laugh and its great working with teenage 
mentality, it reminds me of Pete. 

 

Neil R

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] NEWS FLASH: BAD KITTY HAS CLAWS

[Doug Conn]

 Scored at least 2 unassisted kills today

Three of them !

 

Bad Kitty was also sporting a new set of resin-cast and stainless steel
attachment chain tracks today. No thrown tracks all day, and they got me
through that rugged terrain and into my 'fox and hound' defensive position. 

 

Not wearing that pack was a huge bonus. It was also great not having to wait
for a WiFi connection when booting the tank.

 

I do miss the video and the advanced control options like fine drive speed
and turret control. 

 

 Nicely done Doug

Thanks very much, John.

 

-   Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2014 7:50 PM
To: Digest Recipients
Subject: [TANKS] NEWS FLASH: BAD KITTY HAS CLAWS

 

Yes fellow tankers it TRUE. Bad Kitty showed her claws today.  Scored at
least 2 unassisted kills today. And was on the field all day.  This reporter
is not sure how it happened or why, but it did happen. Here are a few of the
theories that were floated.

 

1. Rocketman shed at least 40 pounds. Of equipment that is. No longer
encumbered by the astronaut style backpack allowed  the feline to be more
nimble and be able to access more secluded areas of the battlefield. 

2. Replacing the Wi-Fi system was a product from Cheap Control Systems.
That's right, Bad Kitty was sporting a C12C Rocketman when interviewed at
lunch stated, yes that was an interview Doug,  Well, it's not a flexible as
the puter when it comes to changing various limits, but, it's a heck of a
lot lighter.

3. MAG jamming of Wi-Fi signals was therefore rendered useless.

   This reporter seemed to get the idea that having fewer options with which
to  tinker allowed Bad Kitty's driver to only have to  drive, aim and fire.

 

Nicely done Doug.. Please, please don't practice. We cannot afford to have
Bad Kitty show her fangs also.  LOL.

 

Vern We make the news Dernberger

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RE: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

[Doug Conn]

 I see that tank choice is really more about building what I like and
overcoming the obstacles of getting it built more than what
advantage/disadvantage the tank might possibly have on the field

 

Well put, Mike.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mike Mangus
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 2:52 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

 

 

 Think I have to respectfully disagree that they are a disadvantage.  The
super-heavies can be built to the 36 rule versus the 1/6th rule.  That
would lighten the tank considerably. 

 

 That is the beauty of the rules as they stand.  A person can build a tank
for playbility, scaled realism, or even both.  Before building my first
tank, I was fretting about which tank to build that would not give me a
disadvantage.  After finally making a battle, I see that tank choice is
really more about building what I like and overcoming the obstacles of
getting it built more than what advantage/disadvantage the tank might
possibly have on the field.  In the end, just making a battle with my own
tank was a better reward than waiting to build the perfect tank.

 

 As for Steve's question:  in all honestly I would like to build a prototype
vehicle, but realistically know that it wouldn't happen soon or even within
the next few years even if protos are approved for the game.

 

Mike

 

 

From: isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com
mailto:panthergol...@gmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

 

^^ Stop telling us to put our money where our mouths are :P Id like to build
an E50 if the rules allowed it, but im not especially bothered they dont,
and even if they did id be in no rush to start... 

 

There are two reasons imo why the super-heavy tanks are unlikely to work
well in the meta-game. 

Firstly, same problems as real life; slow, cumbersome, big target, dont like
mud and soft ground etc.

Secondly, they are huge for no advantage in the game per the rules. If we
added a defensive rating of 5 for tanks that were over 100 tons (not that im
advocating this directly, just pointing out an option), then at least there
would be some advantage to being the size of a duplex...

 

 

 

On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 11:37 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com
mailto:steve...@gmail.com  wrote:

These prototype questions come up every so often.  I was wondering, to those
lurkers (and not-so lurkers) on the list.  How many of you would actually
complete a combat ready tank if you could build that E-100, PL-01, or any
other proto-design that's been discussed over the years?  Go ahead, be
honest. 

 

Steve Tyng

 

 

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-- 
Isaac Goldman 

5142334423

This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the
individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not
disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: few pic's

[Doug Conn]

AFAIK, there hasn't been a Nova Scotia battle yet. You could be the first !

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dirk Pitt
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 4:13 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: few pic's

 

i am on larry utech, I have the Frankenstein, T085, hmmm, maybe a local
battle is in order

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 4:03 PM, Cold comfort gfcr...@hotmail.com
mailto:gfcr...@hotmail.com  wrote:

Where about in Nova Scotia? I live in Hammonds Plains (Halifax) I have T061
on here. 


On Thursday, 31 October 2013 23:27:51 UTC-3, morrdubay wrote:

here are a few pics of the 3 tanks that me and my friends are working on 
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151680521777544
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151680521777544type=1l=4cd4e5
be30 type=1l=4cd4e5be30

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RE: [TANKS] Re: internal gears

[Doug Conn]

Thank you, Loic ! I'll get them out to you soon. Still in design phase here.

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[TANKS] internal gears

[Doug Conn]

Hi Steve -

 

In the spring, you mentioned getting some internal gears made up. Do you
know of a good (cheap) place to have that done ? I'm thinking laser cut out
of ABS or Delrin.

 

  Thanks,

  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Quartermaster Provision Requisition

[Doug Conn]

Two of us for two days, please.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of John Pittelli
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 6:10 PM
To: tank club
Subject: [TANKS] Quartermaster Provision Requisition

 

Herr Generaloberst,

 

  The quartermaster needs to know how many sides of beef,
suckling pigs,ears of corn , casks of ale and tins of Spam to order for the
fall battle. Which is being held the last Saturday and Sunday of September
in the year 2013.  The number of attendees and their respective stomach
capacities would greatly assist in our procurement of the proper mass
quantities of the above listed tasty vittles.

 

Chef Johann Iron Duke Emeril Ramsay

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RE: [TANKS] Two new tanks under construction part 1.

[Doug Conn]

That looks great, Neil ! I wish my school had projects like that.

 

I have a story you may want to share with your students. I guess you can
call it How R/C Tanks Changed My Life. Or maybe, Life is Funny Like
That.

 

Anyway, about seven years ago I built my first R/C Tank vehicle. I wanted
something computer controlled, so I studied up on R/C technology,
electronics and robotics and built one. It was so much fun that I built my
second vehicle, 'Bad Kitty', that I still have.

 

I learned so much that I was able to compete in some robotics competitions.
I ended up in Barcelona at the World Championships.

 

From that experience, I learned enough to enter a simulated autonomous
driving competition sponsored by KIA. I finished third.

 

A few months ago, a project manager for the DARPA Robotics Challenge
contacted me to work on their team. Part of that challenge is autonomous
driving, and he had seen my contact information in the KIA challenge. The
team I'm on, WPI, ended up doing very well
(http://www.darpa.mil/NewsEvents/Releases/2013/06/27.aspx). The team won
funding ($750k I think) and the use of ATLAS robot from Boston Dynamics to
continue with next phase of the competition.

 

Now, they've hired me part-time to work on the project. I'm a (semi)
professional roboticist which is like THE GREATEST THING EVER.

 

I never planned any of this. It never felt much like work. I started out
doing something I loved - building a crazy R/C tank - and just went with it.
There's probably a moral to this story or a lesson for your students, here.
I'm not sure what it is. Just let them know what happened to me because of
this hobby.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of jvragu47
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 10:47 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Two new tanks under construction part 1.

 

Nicely done Neil. What a great school project.

On Monday, July 1, 2013 7:18:16 PM UTC-4, Neil Rochford wrote:

Where were at at the end of June - 

 

http://s224.photobucket.com/user/neroc1/media/SchooltanksJune13_zps8a494d60.
mp4.html

 

This tank will be completed soon. 

 

Neil R 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: New Business

[Doug Conn]

The tank looks fantastic !!

 

Tyng looks . well .. Let's just say 'like Tyng'.

 

Have you considered a hot young bikini model instead of an old, gray one ?

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of l...@fieldofarmortanks.com
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2013 9:34 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: New Business

 

Photo of Steve Tyng with the new RC Combat Panther Prototype at the Weekend
of Heroes. We reached 9 MPH and a turret rotation of 20 RPM with this
beast. Our next step is to get the gun to elevate in an accurate way for
combat.

To view a video of this tank along with other products of FOA, please visit
our Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=260643184075849
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=260643184075849set=vb.165372040259765
type=2theater set=vb.165372040259765type=2theater

 

Please send me your comments

 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dSRaOc0pE4A/UbSDTMIsNVI/AIA/L1U5
FPL0R0U/s1600/photo.JPG 



l...@fieldofarmortanks.com mailto:l...@fieldofarmortanks.com 

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RE: [TANKS] Stu's Tank Update (and a possible Battlefield near Baltimore!)

[Doug Conn]

And, whose tank was it that got stuck in mud and weeds at the Mullin farm ?
Frank almost had to call AAA for a tow truck to extricate T001 from its
shame.

 

The PUFF tanks, on the other hand, navigated that terrain just fine.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 4:14 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Stu's Tank Update (and a possible Battlefield near
Baltimore!)

 


On Tuesday, June 4, 2013 9:38:24 AM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:

...  but as Fred Simms their fearless leader has always said, 

We've never seen a hard battle that we couldn't run away from.

 

In reply to the disparaging vitriol directed at our Fearless Leader,
PUFF only has one question to ask -

Whose tank can be seen at 1:14 to 1:16 in the Jungle Boogey Cage 
Match video limping in reverse because they blew their forward motor
controller on the rough lawn?

Please note proper capitalization for Fearless Leader in your humble
apology.

Ted Simms (Fred's nephew)
SV010 retired

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[TANKS] rain in Gettysburg

[Doug Conn]

Looks like rain tomorrow. I hope we can dodge it.

 

Last week, Bad Kitty failed its 'Level 4 Diagnostic' (hey, it's Star Trek
weekend). I haven't had time to debug it, so I'll be attending with the
Bofors Gun.

 

-  DOug

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RE: [TANKS] Photos of my proyects. I'm now making the E-100

[Doug Conn]

Beautiful work !

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of José Garcia
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2013 4:16 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Photos of my proyects. I'm now making the E-100

 

https://plus.google.com/photos/100407926559842236399/albums

 

Saludos y suerte.

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RE: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

[Doug Conn]

Little miniature windshield wipers and squirters ?

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 9:27 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

 


On Monday, April 15, 2013 4:27:24 PM UTC-4, TyngTech wrote:

More sophisticated calibrations can handle image center offset, camera
misalignment and lens distortion.

Whats the calculation to handle paintball goo all over the lens?

 

Any tank that carries such a sophisticated fire control system

will need a cloaking device.  Anvilus is currently beta-testing

adaptive IR camouflage from BAE systems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pftna34TbJU

 

Fred Simms, Director

Stealth, Targeting and Disinformation (STD)

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

[Doug Conn]

I'm not even sure they'd need to pivot. It would be great not to use moving
parts for this if possible. Cheap webcams now have a 1280 pixel horizontal
resolution. If you separate two of those, facing straight ahead, by a known
distance then you could calculate the physical distance based on the pixel
separation of an image feature. I guess you could use any angle of camera
mounting as long as it was constant.

 

I ran through this math using the specs from my robot camera. I calculated a
maximum range resolution of 360'. Even if my math is way off (which is not
unusual) it's still much farther then we need for a paint ball tank.

 

This sounds like  a fun project. I have too many of those lined up already.
If only I didn't have to WORK for a living I could do so much more tank
stuff ! I wish I was a real estate mogul like Steve.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 9:33 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

 

I think active sensor tech is a blind alley (get it, blind in bright
sunlight... ;-).  Passive is the way to go.  Two pivoting cameras with an
image overlay (ie, an optical rangefinder) is the correct path for the hobby
and worthy of the efforts by Joe, Doug, and other equally skilled computer
boffins.

 

ST

 



On Saturday, April 13, 2013 5:28:53 PM UTC-4, Joe Sommer wrote:


On Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:32:24 AM UTC-4, Joe Sommer wrote:

 One of my friends in the construction industry owns

a GM100DU laser distance range finder with USB 

output (about $150).

 

I took the GM100DU outside on a slighty overcast day.

I could see the laser spot and get distance measurements 

up to 15 m on my Hetzer.  Beyond that, I could not see

the spot to accurately point the laser.  I could get very 

repeatable measurments up to 40m on the side of a 

light colored house.

 

When the sun came out, I could not get any measurements

at any range even on the house.  The bright sunlight 

overpowered the laser spot.

 

I do not recommend this sensor for electronic firing solutions.

 

Another friend has a golf range sensor with an internal spotting 

scope.  I may try mating it with a video camera.  We would then

need some simple image processing to read the seven-segment

range numbers that appear as an ovelay on the scope image.

Joe

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

[Doug Conn]

Thanks !

 

Now, I guess I HAVE to see if it actually works.

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 7:15 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: cheap laser distance range finder with USB output

 

I'm not even sure they'd need to pivot. It would be great not to use moving
parts for this if possible. Cheap webcams now have a 1280 pixel horizontal
resolution. If you separate two of those, facing straight ahead, by a known
distance then you could calculate the physical distance based on the pixel
separation of an image feature.

 

One word..., genius!

 

ST

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] paintball ballistics for fire control with laser rangefinders

[Doug Conn]

This is cool, Joe. Thanks for the information.

 

 There are now some relatively cheap laser rangefinders with 100m
capability and USB output.  See eBay 300705075740

 

I had no idea those things had gotten so cheap !

 

I don't know how helpful a laser rangefinder would be in battles, but it
would be extremely cool ! As we all know, there's no better reason that that
to build it. :)

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 5:33 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] paintball ballistics for fire control with laser
rangefinders

 


I recently ran some simulations of paintball ballistics to
assess the difficulty of using a laser rangefinder for fire
control in our tanks.  Specifically, I wanted to check
sensing/control precision for gun elevation mechanisms.

1)  There are now some relatively cheap laser rangefinders
with 100m capability and USB output.  See eBay 300705075740
for $156,  Previously laser rangefinders for $100 were
available for hunting, golf and construction but units with
electronic output were over $600.  I have no idea about
accuracy or visibility of the laser spot for these rangefinders. 
Hopefully they also have an internal inclinometer.

2)  You would need to build a gimbal for the laser rangefinder
with a coaxial video spotting scope that is independent of the 
turret (because hulls are never level) and because you must 
elevate the gun higher than the laser beam due to ballistic 
drop of paintballs.

3)  I attached a graph of gun elevation in degrees needed to hit
a target at ranges from 10 to 150 feet.  The stars on the graph
show elevation angle to hit the target in the center.  The
squares show elevation angle to hit six inches above the target
spot and the circles show elevation angle to hit six inches below
the target.  These simulations include air drag on the paintball.
The green line is a simplistic model for a projectile with no air 
drag.

For range up to 50 feet, you have about 1.1 degree error margin
to hit a 12 inch tall target and air drag is not very important.
At 50 feet, paintball velocity has dropped to 200 fps from
muzzle velocity of 280 fps.

Beyond 50 feet, air drag must be considered.  At range of 100
feet you only have about 0.5 degree error margin to hit a 12 inch
tall target, paintball velocity has dropped to 144 fps and the
zero drag model will shoot about a foot too low.

4)  Inclinometer or accelerometer chips can measure gun elevation 
angle with digital precision of 0.035 degrees which should be 
sufficient.  However gun elevation control must be capable of at 
least 0.25 degree mechanical precision to hit a 12 inch tall target
at range of 100 feet.

Joe

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Tank Fest Video

[Doug Conn]

Thanks for posting the walker video, John.
 
 my dog doesn't walk like that.
Unless there's vodka in the Alpo, I hope not ! 
 
 Would the technique for the airsoft hit sensors for Mech Warfare be
applicable to airsoft tanks?
In theory at least, I think so. Those sensors are just force sensitive
resistors. They'd be kind of expensive if the vehicle was large. You'd also
need some electronics to handle reading the sensors. They're a little
fragile, too.
 
-  Doug
 
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of HV
Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 2:43 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Cc: John Pittelli
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Tank Fest Video
 
A question for Doug: Would the technique for the airsoft hit sensors for
Mech Warfare be applicable to airsoft tanks? I saw somewhere, rcgroups I
think, where a Russian guy had put impact sensors on an airsoft tank. I
forget what type of sensor it was, but as I recall it was something that is
pretty commonly available on robotics vendor sites.
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RE: [TANKS] Project Firestorm

[Doug Conn]

From Joe's hint, it must be an Italian tank. Frank is returning to his roots
:)


-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 1:05 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Project Firestorm

Sorry, not correct.

On 12/31/2012 1:04 PM, Robert Currie wrote:
 I will take a guess and say a Sherman fire fly

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Project Firestorm

[Doug Conn]

Beautiful work, Frank !

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:53 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Project Firestorm

Ding. Ding. Ding.  We have a winner.  The Semovente is the Ferrari of the
tank destroyer world, with classic Italian lines and fine attention to
details (far too many of them).  The vehicle was so well made that the
Germans took all of them and put them into service in the German Army (which
wasn't always the fate for Italian armed vehicles).  It's sports car like
stance should allow it to hug corners as it prowls the village streets and
country-side lanes of the battlefield. The General's Wife will ride in style
during 2013.

Here's a glamor shot of one of the four suspension assemblies. Each assembly
consists of 95 separate parts, including 6 welded assemblies (which consist
of 25 separate pieces). I actually simplified the design a little for
modeling purposes.

Photo courtesy of J.P. Visions from their soon-to-be-released Tanks of The
R/C World 2013 calendar.

On 1/1/2013 4:08 AM, Pete Arundel wrote:
 Italian 13/40 or Semovente on the same chassis at a guess.

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[TANKS] 12V17Ah batteries for $10 !

[Doug Conn]

The seller says the tested spec is closer to 10Ah. Still, they aren't going
to get any less expensive than this:

 

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19025

 

No affiliation with the seller, blah, blah .

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RE: [TANKS] 12V17Ah batteries for $10 !

[Doug Conn]

They are unused.

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RE: [TANKS] Re: Best place to get Paint ball guns from ??

[Doug Conn]

It does look like it would work well for us. It's plastic, right ? Easy to
cut. I prefer electronic markers because they've already integrated the
firing solenoid, but the Gryphon seems to have a good place to hook in an
external one.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Sommer
Sent: Sunday, December 9, 2012 11:34 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Best place to get Paint ball guns from ??

 



On Friday, December 7, 2012 10:55:42 AM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:

The Tipmmann Gryphon is a compact single tube blowback style at $69.  It
looks fairly easy to mod.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gkrVEn_-x4


Steve,

Have you fired the Gryphon?  Based on the video, 
it appears to be easily adaptable to firing with
a door lock actuator.  I plan to build a new tank 
this winter and may try it.

Thanks,
Joe




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RE: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

[Doug Conn]

I let them cool down in air. I never tried quenching them, but I'm afraid
they might get brittle.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of jvragu47
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 11:17 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

 

Doug,
   So after baking in the oven for an hour, did you oil quench them
or let them cool gradually?

John

On Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:26:16 PM UTC-5, RocketMan wrote:

Try this.

 

http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/torsion-springs/

 

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

[Doug Conn]

Try this.

 

http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/torsion-springs/

 

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dave D.
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 8:51 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

 

Hey John,

 

I kinda see it all coming together, BUT...

 

How about a picture of the wire in the contraption, being turned into the
spring?

 

Inquiring minds wanna KNOW!!

 

Enjoy your Gobble Gobble Day...

 

Dave.

- Original Message - 

From: John Pittelli mailto:jpl...@yahoo.com  

To: tank club mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  

Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 7:28 PM

Subject: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

 

And here it is.  Ol' Rocketman was dead on and Neil was close. Making
suspension springs. And you might ask the question,  Who in the MAG world
would be making a suspension? They always have lived by the solid axle.

Questions to be answered at a much later date.

 

 

 

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RE: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks

[Doug Conn]

Torsion spring twister !!!

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[TANKS] marker velocity

[Doug Conn]

At the last battle, Will commented that he thought my marker velocity was
low. I just checked it with the chrono and I was able to adjust it up to
about 220 fps. I know the higher the velocity the better (up to 300 fps,
anyway), but how much of a factor is this ? Aside from the velocity
adjustment screw, is there any way to beef up the pop ?

 

While we're on this topic, quite a while ago I saw Steve or Will with a
paintball chrono that just needed to touched to the marker barrel while
firing to take a measurement. The chrono I have now is a general purpose one
that can be used for firearms, archery, paintball, etc. It's versatile but
kind of a pain to set up. Is anyone familiar with the paintball chrono I
described ? Does it cost a fortune ?

 

  Thanks a lot,

  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] Gettysburg 6-23-2012

[Doug Conn]

Thanks, Chris. Nice photos.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 10:53 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Gettysburg 6-23-2012

 

okay, this link should work 

http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii117/OdysseySlipways/RC%20Tank%20Combat/
Gettysburg/June%202%20to%203%20of%202012/ 

 

Chris

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[TANKS] Hamstead weather

[Doug Conn]

The forecast for tomorrow is not promising. If it looks like the battle will
get rained out in the morning, will someone please give me a call or text ?

 

Frank, you should already have my number. If any other regional tankers want
it, send me a private message.

 

  Thanks a lot,

  Doug

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RE: [TANKS] looking to step up to plastic injection

[Doug Conn]

Do you know of any manufacturers who will actually produce parts in this
price range ? I have a design for a 4” wide, 1 ¼” long track link. It should
be a straight pull. Even in the least expensive ABS plastic, the place I’ve
received quotes from is several times more than the $0.20 you mention for
batches of 5000.

 

  Thanks,

  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Michael Blattau
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 9:30 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] looking to step up to plastic injection

 

You'll want to use ABS or an PC/ABS blend (ex. Cycoloy C2950HF PC/ABS).
Don't bother buying a injection machine.  You can typically get the tooling
made in Asia for around $5000, and the parts would cost around 20 cents
apiece in batches of 3000.  Just avoid any slide actions which would drive
up cost.  Once the tooling is paid for you can select other plastic
materials.  You can also add fibers if need be.

Michael

 

  _  

From: Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] looking to step up to plastic injection

 

 Perhaps take a look at the plastics being used for RC cars and helicopters.
I don't know what kind it is, but the stuff is incredibly strong with a bit
of flexibility and wear resistant.  It might be perfect for track links or
other high abrasion high stress parts.

 

Mike

 

From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com odysseyslipw...@aol.com
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2012 10:32 PM
Subject: [TANKS] looking to step up to plastic injection

 

Some of you who know something about me, know i do work with resin castings
and produce sci-fi kits. Recently i have begun to look into stepping things
up, taking me from resin kits to styrene kits (or at least some of them),
but i am also looking at other things such as tank related parts :)

 

I know i can't do everything (producing useable parts that everyone could
use for every tank), but i could start to do some.

 

The plastic injectors i am looking at all have a mold size of about 3
square but might know someone that might be able to do mold blocks up to 6
(still have to talk more to them about some parts).

 

at first i was thinking of using regular styrene , but thought i'd need to
add some sleeves into the links to help prevent wear, but then starting
looking into some harder materials that i might be able to use (still
checking) such as nylon. they would hold up much better than regular
styrene, and i don't think they would need any kind of sleeve cast into them
but think there is a possible draw-back  -  not being able to be painted
(unless someone out there know's otherwise).

 

another limitation is the amount of material required to make a part, the
injectors i am looking at have a limit of 1 oz of material (think that's
liquid, not weight), so some parts might be out of the question to make -
for now.

 

if the other person would be willing to make some of the bigger parts for
me, those i think would be some road wheels and sprocket wheels - oh, while
i'm thinking of road wheels, there is a material that is used to make rubber
like gaskets that i was thinking of for making the rubber tires for the road
wheels, but haven't obtained a sample of it yet to see if it really is
closer to rubber, if so, we have rubber tires (again, limited only by size
and volume of material needed). the sprockets i thought could be done in
nylon as well as i think that would hold up fairly well but still need to
work out the hubs to mount them to and the mounting them to the drive shafts
(and hope they don't break)

 

the parts would be in 1:6 scale

 

as to the tanks i am thinking of looking into for partsbut would have to
do research to see if the track links would be feasible to make and use

 

Tiger (but of course, I have one)

 

Sherman (i have no real knowledge of them so i don't know if one track fits
all)

 

Abram (not 100% sure as i don't know if there are any real variants of the
tank or just the one, again, i have no knowledge of this tank).

 

Stug

 

as it's still several months away before i can think about getting an
injector, i do know i'll be getting one, so i might as well start looking
into other subjects that i can do using the injector.

 

I don't want anyone to think that these would be a cheap things to buy as i
have been pricing nylon and it's a few dollars a pound for it and the molds
could cost me $500 - $1500 on up.

 

now parts such as hatches and such would be made out of styrene, this way
they can be easily painted along with the rest of your tank.

 

the nylon parts (if i can get everything worked out) i wanted to see about
maybe trying for 4 colors, black, light gray, medium gray and dark gray. i
was sort of leaning towards the gray as i thought if they could be painted
and