Joel, I checked with our CBYRA rep and was told that CBYRA is not the
authority, it is PHRF of the Chesapeake. And I looked at the PHRF web site and
it states that if the handheld is PURCHASED after 1/1/15, then it must have the
DSC capability.
Gary
St. Michaels
- Original Message -
I would definitely appreciate it if you could look for your NX1 wind unit. And
pay
I replied this way because your domain rejected me oops.
Gary___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing
Speaking of instruments - - I have an old Nexus (NX1?) system. It works.
But...some damn (large) bird decided to perch on my wind instrument on the top
of the mast. He/she broke off the vane of the wind direction part. I found it
on the deck, but am unsure about trying to reattach it - glue? a
You got it. Name of book was Muskrat. Author, if I remember correctly was Doug
Hanks.
Good luck, great book, quite funny if you are at all familiar with Oxford, St.
Michaels and this area - skipjacks, log canoes, etc.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To:
Our rules don't allow us to use the whisker pole set at anything longer than
the J measurement. So, I got rid of mine.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Chuck S via CnC-List
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 5:13 PM
Subject: Re:
Ouch! I have had a little plumbing help around the heart, but no zipper
hate the six to eight hours on your back after the catheterization
Get well quickly - we need your skill around here.
Gary Nylander
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: Chuck S ;
in
worse weather than what was outside my house. Get well! Dave
On Apr 6, 2015, at 1:40 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Ouch! I have had a little plumbing help around the heart, but no zipper
hate the six to eight hours on your back after
It was up to 85 by end of day yesterday. Should top out at around 100+. See you
out there, I'll be on a J-80 named Evil Woman. Raft up at MRYC and enjoy the
party. The fleet of spinnakers going across Eastern Bay will dwarf that 20.
Gary Nylander
St. Michaels
- Original Message -
Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built the
same. Mine is #593.
There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box is
attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with six long
screws. The oak comes off easily.
Joel is having a pretty good year. On May 23, he and crew sailed the Annapolis
to St. Michaels race. He was one of less than half of the fleet (of 115 or so)
which finished!
Gary
St. Michaels MD
- Original Message -
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
To:
Been there, done that. Bowline, two halyards, good chair. I am over 200 and
have been up many times - 30-1 has stout mast.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 9:23 PM
Subject: Re:
to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the
toughest part.
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL
--
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
for this.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List sail question
No break on the Chesapeake.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
To: CC List
Cc: Gary Russell
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List sail question
Hi Joe,
If racing, take a look at where the PHRF break takes place. For
If it is a head gasket, why are you thinking of a complete replacement? I had a
crack in the head of my Yanmar and removed the head and replaced it with a new
one. One (+) boat buck instead of a bunch (did my own work).
Or, is the rest of the engine pooped as well?
Gary
- Original
I use a few cordless drills. Wore out a couple of old Makita 9v units and now
have a Porter Cable 18v. With a charger and two batteries. It is not lithium
ion so is rather heavy. For light duty, I have a BD 9.9v unit which is handy
and light but you have to plug the charging cord into the drill
We have a number of boats in our local fleet with owners in their 80's and a
couple in their 90's. One 90+ owner with a Bermuda 40 spends much money each
year making the boat better. Pretty varnish and up to date (for a B40). He will
sail it until he can't get aboard (now has a younger (in his
Don't tell anybody, but I've used (big) channel locks.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
To: CC list
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 11:43 AM
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box
First sail/journey of the year. Bedford to Deep
I went down to the boat to check (curious). Couldn't get a really accurate
measurement because we have a breeze today. But it looks closer to 10 inches
than 15. I'll wait until the breeze abates, the boat is just a block away.
Gary
St. Michaels MD
- Original Message -
From: Joe at
They allow you to alter the shape of your genoa - more twist for power, etc.
I have Garhauer and have for years, they perform well at much less cost than
the alternatives.
Gary Nylander
30-1
- Original Message -
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To:
I used Rustoleum spray. If I had spent more time in prep, it would look very
good, as it is, it is covered and has been on for about 3 years. Rough it up
and spray, then sand and do it again (I didn't, that is why mine looks the way
it does).
Gary
30-1
- Original Message -
From:
I've used the West Marine head lube with success. The joker valve on my W-C
head was acting up and, at the advice of some of the listers, instead of a new
head or rebuild kit, I went with the lube. It worked and is still working.
Gary
30-1
- Original Message -
From: Andrew
I get growth in the slot where the little wheel spins. Have done a lot of
'fixes' to make it work, and it is still spotty. I even bought a new wheel...
no help. (Nexus)
Gary
30-1
Weedy mid-Chesapeake
- Original Message -
From: Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
To:
Don't forget that when a boat heels, the waterline may grow, but I still doubt
the figures quoted. I have never seen that on my (sometimes well sailed) 30!
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent:
DON'T use gin. It took about three years to get the smell out of the water
system when I did that. When I went to the store, cheap Vodka was not cheap, so
I got some cheap(er) gin. Big mistake. It did not freeze, but
Gary
- Original Message -
From: jhnelson via CnC-List
To:
The first thing to consider is whether you will get a ratings hit. I have three
friends who have asym spinnakers added into their sail inventory. They each got
a three second hit. But, they race offshore and do some medium distance stuff
(20-80 mile races on the Bay). If the wind is right, the
The J-80 I race on uses a Honda 2hp 4 stroke. Moves along quite nicely, but
vibrates. The J-24 has a Tohatsu 3 hp two stroke and also moves along nicely. I
would think anything 2 hp or more would move your inflatable well, just don't
expect to plane.
Gary
- Original Message -
I don't know what fouling properties you have in your area, but a friend
left his J-24 rudder in the water for about five weeks and it took a scraper
and stiff brush to get the crud off it. I recommend some kind of
anti-fouling paint. Vivid?
Gary
- Original Message -
From: "Eric
I had the exact same symptoms on my 2QM15 for many years. I tried everything I
could think of. Finally, when it got worse, I followed the water from outside
the hull through all of the parts of the engine. At long last, I found a small
bit of an impeller in the hose leading to the area where
I wouldn't say I experienced 'problems' with the boomkicker, I just am not
enamored with the installation on the J-80. Ours has as its adjustment
mechanism a two legged vang, with one tail going to each side of the 'cabin' on
the boat. I don't think it has enough leverage to give adequate
Been there and done that. Will never go back to a stainless slide in an
aluminum boom.
Gary
30-1
- Original Message -
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List FW: Boom out haul
What do your folks rate a Star? We only have one Wednesday night race where the
fleets are combined, so usually they race one design - windward/leeward - which
is what they like. But on that single race, our guys rate them at 162, which
seems to be somewhat correct. And, we race in light wind
I was racing that night (our annual night race). It was spectacular, but not by
nature. They were testing a rocket out of Wallops Island and it went into the
clouds and was set up to drop some kind of heated elements into the cloud and
make rain (or so we were told).
A mention of it was in
If your mast partner is like mine, it is a cast aluminum ring which is not all
that well machined. Thus, if your mast is moving around (and it will under
load), your mast will rub on this rough casting. Maybe a little, maybe a lot,
but I sure would not like to have a scuffed part of the mast
Peter, this is one of those tasks which has to be approached with a plan. I
have been through it a few times and finally found a little piece of a real
old, brittle, and rusty impeller in the little hose which goes from the water
pump into the engine.. lots of frustration. In over 20 years
I measured mine as well as I could while they were on the boatthe
downhaul line is 28 feet long. The topping lift is (and I am assuming yours
exits the mast roughly two feet above the spreaders) about 70 feet.
Good luck.
Gary Nylander
#593 (also 1980)
- Original Message -
From:
I will be there. Working in some capacity - I am a Model Guild member and we
are putting on the pond portion of the show with the Steam folks. Will have a
couple of my small R/C boats out.
For anyone who hasn't seen the Small Craft part of the show, there is usually
over 100 small craft,
We named our 30-1 "Penniless" for obvious reasons 22 years ago.
I thought one of the most unique names was on a race boat - WOFTAM - used to be
owned by Wendy Mittman Clarke, who was editor of Chesapeake Bay magazine for a
while (may still be?). Waste of F.. Time and Money.
Gary
-
The J-80 I race on is named Evil Woman. Seems as he was driving to the boat, he
heard the song and it stuck.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Paul Baker via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Baker
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List
Start by telling us what you intend to do with the boat and for us novices,
what is the current setup. If you are racing, there are options which may be
different than if you are casually racing or cruising. I originally went
with a windward sheeting traveler setup on my boat and later realized
Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows the
relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C's. It would be pretty useful in
this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
Gary
30-1 #593
- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To:
I have the Garhauer rigid vang on my 30 and love it. We have a boomkicker on
the J-80 and I don't. The 80 system isn't as easy to adjust as the Garhauer,
and that may be the J-80 method, which has adjusters on each side of the boat.
You pull like hell and very little happens. Not so with the
The Poli-glow folks have a remover, but from another lister, I learned that
floor stripper works as well and is cheaper. We got Zep heavy duty floor
stripper from Lowe's. You can dilute it like they do for floors.
I don't think that wax will bring it back to the luster you would like. We went
I didn't change the upper pullies, and am using 7/16 or the metric
equivalent (10mm, 11mm) for my halyards. I have three, one genoa is 11mm
VPC, the other is 7/16 Sta-set plus and the main is 7/16 T-900. I replaced
the blocks at the base and put in line organizers and run everything back to
I went with 11mm VPC for my 30 because it was on sale for 40% off at West for
one day. Would have gone with 10mm if given a choice, but the savings in the
pocketbook offset the few ounces of additional weight. By the way, it works
great in the clutches and I have fewer complaints from the crew.
I think the comments about Jimmy's boat are unfounded. He has what could be
a pretty good/fast sailboat and a fishing boat as well. For many, that is
the best of all worlds. I saw a sailboat (nice looking, fast looking, about
90-100 feet) in Newport harbor in the early '90's when they had a
I have a Head Foil on my forestay – twin grooves to handle two sails (put the
new one up while the old one is up and then dump the old one). It fit pretty
tightly on the forestay, but I guess it would spin if forced. No furling. The
sails have rope luffs.
James, if your sails have hanks on
My 30-1 has a flexible hose of about 4 inches in diameter hooked to each
dorade. I have a diesel, so am not as concerned about getting fumes out, so
have put smaller vents where the dorados exit. One of the vent hoses is hooked
through the blower. I will go over to the boat tomorrow and read
The last two times I have bought headsails for Penniless, the sailmakers
have suggested dacron. It slowly degrades over time and can be re-cut. My
previous high-tech sails had collapsed suddenly (two out of four headsails
over 20+ years). I went with a local sailmaker who specializes in dacron for
Oh, you guys are indeed ancient. My much more modern 1980 version has the
awesome beige, orange, and brown tone plaid stuff. It is also better at showing
stains, of which there are many. But, as 90 percent of its activity is local
racing, the cushions stay in the attic over the ‘carriage house’
I just went down to Penniless and looked at the blower system – it is about 70
degrees here on the Eastern Shore of Maryland – Merry Christmas…..
We have 3 inch flex hose from the dorades to the engine area. One has a blower
in-line – it is a metal unit (surprisingly not rusted after 35
When installing the block and pad eye for my reefing point (only one here on
the light-air Chesapeake), I drilled and tapped a 1/4 x 20 hole for each
bolt. Much stronger than a rivet.
Gary
30-1
St. Michaels
- Original Message -
From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List"
Curtis, I just went down and measured my forestay – the mast is laying on a
rack at the boat yard, a block from here. From the pin at the top to the pin at
the toggle is 38 feet 8 inches. The toggle is 16 inches from pin to pin. My
boat is #593.
Gary Nylander
St. Michaels MD
From:
Boy, there is a LOT of difference between a ’76 30-1 and my ’80. The whole head
sink area is different – sink, cabinet, etc.
Why not get a piece of wood and groove the backside and either paint or
varnish. I’m not aware of any conduit which is pretty.
Gary
#593
From: CnC-List
Contact Bacon Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They have a large inventory of sails
of all kinds. They rate them (I think honestly) – their web site has dimensions
for most boats and if you just tell them what boat you have, they will give you
a list of appropriate sails.
Gary
Maryland
I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop
position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a ‘hanging
blade’ and you know how much that means!
Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that it
must be stopped, as
Outstanding job, Randy.
A question, does your stern pulpit have a gate? Mine has a gate across the
middle section, so the job of getting someone aboard is easier. And we have
found (we did a couple of trials with the life sling years ago) that the line
can get tangled in the case and come
The last two mainsails I have had made came with straps - about 18-24 inches
long, made with Velcro backed cloth. And, the J-24 and J-80 sails I have
used.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June
Apparently, they changed the design – mine has a plastic tank in the same
place. I have used a little bleach with no issues.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 2:18 PM
To: cnc-list
Around here, if you are pumping your salad overboard, you would be in trouble.
So, we just pump it into the tank, then shake and stir…… I will have to look
and see what the ingredients are for the Head Lube.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Somewhere in the production run of the 30-1’s, they changed their minds….#593
has tangs and indents in the mast collar to receive them. Maybe the complaints
of folks getting locked in the head by a jammed door may have helped?
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
the hull
number sequence restarted at hull #1, since it's a different model of boat than
the 30-1.
Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
_
From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
I have encountered some odd waves on the Chesapeake and attributed them to a
boat/ship/tug/barge which has passed by some time earlier. In the shallow bay
waters, these type of 5 to 8 foot wake waves could easily travel across a few
miles of water and then bounce off the shore and come right
The folks I know who use poles with asyms use them hooked to the tack. Just
like a regular spinnaker but better at reaching. One of them (Cal 40) was just
second in fleet and first in class at Newport to Bermuda.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of tom
There was a gap. My 30-1 is a 1980 and is #593. I think Curtis’ is in the low
600’s and is a 1981. The 2’s were not started until the mid-80’s and are very
different.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016
Good luck and good sailing.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 11:41 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Touché racing Gulfport Pensacola
Curtis, I use a gallon of Hydrocoat (it is thick) each time I paint. It barely
covers – one coat. I, like others, paint the waterline, keel leading edge,
rudder first and then fill in while spreading the paint out. The old paint does
not leach away on the flat parts of the middle hull, but does
I moved my traveler on my 30-1 from in front of the wheel (all of two feet long
and nearly worthless) to across the companionway. I know, it is a pain to climb
around when one has to go below, but how often is your traveler car centered? I
thought about putting it over the companionway hood,
If you are planning on using a pole to stretch the genoa, then you are right.
But….. in our PHRF area, you cannot use a pole longer than the J measurement
(which is the length of almost all spinnaker poles) without penalty, even on a
genoa.
I bought a whisker pole to use on the genoa, but
>From my experience going from a Martek to a Flex, the Flex has a lot more
>blade area, particularly in the outer part of the blade.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 2:00 PM
To:
I had some leaking on my 1980 version (#593) but it was from cracks in the
aluminum cover at deck level. By the way, all of our early 30's are MK1's, it
wasn't until the mid to late '80's that they came out with the II, which is
quite different.
I pulled the chainplates out - a rather simple
I ended up doing what Joe did. I didn't replace the thru hull, just
everything above it starting with the plywood backing plate. As there was no
evidence of leakage, I held the thru hull in place with a step wrench and
didn't disturb it, just put new wood in place (bedded) and re-plumbed with a
As I said earlier, my boat is late, so the boom is a foot higher than yours,
unless yours has been refitted.
That said, the Garhauer spring loaded tube attaches at the base of the mast,
just above the partners, there’s a fitted plate – and the same is true on the
boom, it’s about 3 -4 feet
As the owner of 30-1 #593, I strongly recommend a vang. I have a Garhauer
solid vang with its adjusting line led to the cockpit. It is very useful.
Gary
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday,
Later versions (1980) have a hinged door between the salon and head areas and a
double hinged door between the v-berth and the head. I’m not sure whether that
was standard or optional – I think that list may be in my paperwork.
Gary Nylander #593
From: CnC-List
Agree - been happy for nearly 20 years.
Gary
30-1
Chesapeake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 1:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re:
Repeating a post from a few months back.. I have used a boomkicker on the
J-80 I raced on - have Garhauer on Penniless. No comparison.
And. having some experience with a 27, I would think the 30-1's boom is
somewhat heavier. The sticks on a 30-1 are very robust. I would go for
lighter springs.
I’ll try to answer your questions, but the 30 is somewhat unique. I say this
from owning and racing mine for over 20 years.
I have raced both spinnaker and non-spinnaker and picked up my fair share of
trophies in each. My ex (Admiral – we share the boat) and her husband race her
now in a
for JAM racers
Gary what do you mean by "Again, in light air, a spinnaker is a big s"?
Thanks,
Randy
_
From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-lis
I assume you are talking about a mixed fleet of JAM and chute racers. We have a
Wednesday night fleet and a club on our river here in St. Michaels – and have
mixed fleets in each. The Wednesday folks allow a 10% PHRF adjustment for
non-spinnaker. It works most of the time – in heavy air (where
Our issue is the small size of our fleets. When you have less than 10
boats... handicap range from less than 100 to 250, breaking them up is a
problem. Our neighbors on the next river (more room) have spin and non spin
fleets, and I've raced a few times down there - a 'fleet' of four boats?
That's
If it is really only a couple of feet long, it may not attach to the mast. Our
PHRF rules say that any strut which holds a sail must attach there, but I don’t
know about one which is only controlling a sheet and would never touch the
sail. ??? On our 30, we don’t use separate guys, just two
On my 1980 30, they are 1/8 white plastic of some variety.
Gary
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List
Thanks for the concern. On Maryland's Eastern Shore, we got about 1 inches
to 2 feet. The wind pushed it around some, but it is rather light. No boat
problems in our marina - I just have a dusting, as I'm under a shed roof
with about 10 others - in the water but sheltered.
Gary Nylander
Many years ago in a previous life, I was racing a Porsche 911. I was lucky to
get some small sponsorship from Red Line Racing Oil, which was new at the time.
That was good. The rep also suggested I use their brand new transmission oil in
the gearbox and I said yes, because I was having some
] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early 30-1 Interior Doors
Later versions (1980) have a hinged door between the salon and head areas and a
Best of luck with the injury, heal quickly..
Gary Nylander
30-1 #593
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:06 PM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Extending
But, if you hadn't had that preventer, you may have lost your (old cast)
gooseneck.
Don't ask how I know.
Gary Nylander
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 4:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port side
of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s) run from
pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then forward to a
winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that
Randy, you have stumbled onto the major flaw in the construction on the 30-1.
There have been many discussions on this site about the mast step. Some owners
have filled this low part of the sump with fiberglass, others (me and….) have
strengthened or replaced those cross supports. The big flaw
On my 30-1, I have done the following:
A Garhauer solid vang assembly – the adjustment line goes to a block at the
base of the mast, centered at the aft of the mast partners, then to a fairlead
attached to the companionway hood and to a rope clutch (the inner slot of a
quad) at the port
J-30’s of the ‘80’s vintage were legendary. There were a number of them around
here which had the outer skin removed, core replaced, and then were re-glassed.
Not cheap, but they got thousands of pounds lighter.
Gary
St. Michaels md
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
My 20 inch adjustable torque wrench tops out at about 120 pounds, so you have a
ways to go. You need a bigger wrench – suggest rental. There is a device called
a torque multiplier, but I couldn’t find one locally, so added an extension to
a 2 foot breaker bar and hauled on it like crazy.
I may have one floating around in the boat. I gave up – have taken the
‘ignition’ switch out and replaced it with a push/pull switch at great cost
savings after finding all the Yanmar keys are the same. I figure having a key
outside is not important when the master switch is down below. Can’t
You may want to buy a quart of whatever bottom paint is there and a foam
brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be
something thick...??..
Gary
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Doyle via CnC-List
When I was looking a number of years ago, I found the Flex-o-fold prop to be
of better quality than the Gori. Smoother mechanism, finer machining, etc.
Can't say much more because the Flex has been on the boat for over 10 years.
Happy.
Gary
30-1 Yanmar 2QM15.
-Original Message-
From:
I used the cable tie method to gather in all my wires (no conduit in mast) and
left the tails on. It works pretty well, you still get some wire slap, and I’m
not sure why, but it is not annoying enough to deter sleep. Maybe heavier cable
ties would center the bundle better – mine are just the
Paul, you don't have to go through all that stuff - that is what PHRF
committees and other folks which rate boats do.
As your boat is "production" and many of those have been rated, all you have
to do is fill out the PHRF form for your region and outline what has been
done (if different than
There was a thread on this venue a couple of months ago where the 'experts'
were touting the effectiveness of some 3M tape. After going the gooey route
some time ago, it got my interest. Look in the archives, the tape method
seems to be clean and effective. Maybe one of the experienced folks will
We had one on the J-80 I raced on. A bit of a hassle to raise, but leaves
the sail as built, no thick edges altering its shape. And no extra weight.
It survived five years of 8 month deploying - taking it off once or twice a
week. It finally shredded in a gale, but protected the sail even then.
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