Wills are often a great place to research this type of question. Unlike a
trousseau, they tend to reflect possessions at a random point in life (rather
than a planned-for life transition). There are a lot of researchers studying
clothing represented in wills in various times and places, so you
You might find some useful leads in an essay I wrote on female cross-dressing
in the SCA's period (and in the SCA). While about half the essay is more on the
interactional theater aspects of women cross-dressing in the SCA, the first
part is an exploration of the motifs and evidence for
On Oct 6, 2013, at 9:07 PM, e...@huskers.unl.edu wrote:
There was a book that disappeared from my university library shortly before I
got my hands on it:
Clothes Make the Man: Female Cross Dressing in Medieval Europe
At 08:18 PM 12/1/2012, you wrote:
...or Tales of a Band Mom.
This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first
order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary
instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.)
What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in
On Jul 17, 2012, at 11:46 AM, Ann Catelli wrote:
Some of the garments had some nalbinding or needle-lace fabric insertions on
an edge which were certainly more open than the linen to which they're
attached.
And the underpants--for male or female wear, I'm pretty sure they are a
unique
?
Thanks in advance for any help given.
Heather Rose Jones
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on to him. Does anyone know of other
examples?
Thanks in advance for any help given.
Heather Rose Jones
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but a cover that says something like middle ages, no
time-travel or supernatural elements, passionate courtship but probably little
explicit sex.
Heather Rose Jones
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On Aug 7, 2011, at 8:43 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:
snip
Though I have not been vocal for long stretches of time, I have been on this
list for about 7 or 8 years. I know many of you have been around for much
longer. And I am sure that this was once the best place for everyone to
.
Heather Rose Jones
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Painted cloths I rather suspect. I.e., painted decorative hangings.
Heather
On Feb 27, 2011, at 11:53 AM, snsp...@aol.com wrote:
Forwarded from another list.
Ms Harley 53 of the English Brut chronicle records an incident during the
uke of Burgundy’s siege of English Calais in
On Jan 2, 2011, at 11:13 AM, Emily Gilbert wrote:
Ooh, post a picture when you're done - and pictures of the other gowns, too!
I think the concept of making doll-size historical costumes is really
interesting.
I've had a lot of fun making doll-sized replicas of costumes (and other goods)
some fairly labor-intensive techniques without it
taking forever.
Heather
Emily
On 1/2/2011 5:28 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
I've had a lot of fun making doll-sized replicas of costumes (and other
goods) from archaeological finds. There are some pictures of theme here:
http
On Nov 11, 2010, at 6:42 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote:
I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb
list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two.
I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The
Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100
Thanks for the lead. (The particular costuming project went in another
direction, but the theoretical question is still fascinating.) As you note,
the really problematic aspect for the bias cut is the lack of genealogy.
(There's a similar problem for that handful of Spanish bias-plaid
Hmm, I seem to have failed at the paste part of the process:
http://www.huscarl.at/wissenschaft02.php
On Oct 21, 2010, at 1:07 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:
umm, the link to an image didn't come across??
chimene
On Oct 20, 2010, at 9:47 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
With the caveats
, that with stripes that wide, it was two different types of fabric
sewn together.
The one with points may be different, however.
My 2 cents
Genie B
On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 8:51 AM, Heather Rose Jones
heather.jo...@earthlink.net wrote:
Hmm, I seem to have failed at the paste part of the process
On Oct 21, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Leah Janette wrote:
Only a few years later, you find the infamous Spanish diagonal plaids.
http://jessamynscloset.com/plaid.html
They still don't answer the question of cut on the diagonal or woven that
way? but they don't seem to be an artistic
On Oct 21, 2010, at 8:53 AM, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
Sigh. Must reconstruct my thoughts, stupid e-mail program erased my message
when I hit send. I hate Microsoft.
Assuming the patterning isn't a matter of artistic license, I think this is a
combination of bias use of a woven
Thank you all for your thoughts on this question -- it's been useful to see how
other people would analyze it. I think I've confirmed my opinion that the data
simply doesn't support a conclusion of bias cut at this particular time in this
particular context -- at least not sufficiently for my
On Oct 21, 2010, at 7:42 PM, Sunshine Buchler wrote:
What are people's thoughts on the garments depicted in the early 14th c.
Manesse
Codex that have diagonal striped designs?
Woven as diagonal stripes? Print? Woven as straight-grain stripes and cut
on
the bias? Symbolic
With the caveats that artistic representations aren't always intended to
represent actual clothing construction, and that representations of clothing
decoration are sometimes intended to convey symbolism rather than fabric
structures, and that there are multiple ways to create any particular
On Sep 25, 2010, at 6:16 PM, Althea Turner wrote:
Does anyone know which museum the garment known as St Germain's hose is in?
Is there a better picture than the one in Kohler?
The items is pictured and described in:
Schmedding, Brigitta. 1978. Mittelalterliche Textilien in Kirchen und
On Aug 19, 2010, at 10:46 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:
Comments?
Thanks,
Ceit
To: Marche of Alderford
Subject: [Alderfolk] Fashion Crisis!
OK my SCAdian family...I have a book by Tom Tierney on Celtic Fashions. What
I would like to know is how reputable is this source? What I am looking
On Jan 27, 2010, at 12:40 PM, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote:
One isolated example is the cache of grave clothing from medieval
Greenland. I know a lot of people use them as typical for Europe as
a whole, but that really can't be done. If you look closely at
Woven into the Earth by
On Sep 11, 2009, at 7:23 PM, Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com
wrote:
Hi,
Finally making progress in my quest to build pieces to use in my
history
class. The ancients are certainly some of the simplest to build,
but of
course I have an insatiable need to complicate my life and
conditions, might it be that a heavier, warmer outer layer -
rather than an additional over-layer - would be appropriate for your
purposes?
Heather Rose Jones
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On Jul 4, 2009, at 12:06 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
Here's a question for those (like me) old-timers out there. I may
be going to a 1960s hippies style event and if so, need to wear a
costume. My recollection isn't so good. Remember what they said:
If you can remember it, you weren't
On May 7, 2009, at 2:19 AM, Käthe Barrows wrote:
What if the judges don't like my historical period?
This shouldn't matter if they're honest. Case in point, all three
of us
judges gagged when we saw that someone was entering that 1959 Dior
outfit.
We' were all old enough to have developed
On Mar 19, 2009, at 7:03 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
Hi everyone,
I'm teaching a class next month at an SCA event on how to enlarge
scaled
patterns in books to full size. I was going to include a list of books
relevant to SCA costumers (for those who aren't aware the SCA's time
period
is
On Feb 21, 2009, at 7:17 PM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:
I'd actually say it was SCA Generic Early Period, myself, since it
looks like he's wearing front-lacing suede boots. :-)
I was going to say something similar but hesitated lest it would be
too easily be mistaken for a snark
On Sep 1, 2008, at 11:08 AM, Julie Tamura wrote:
Greetings
I have always heard that tatting didn't come into use before the
1700s and
so haven't been doing it for Tudor/Elizabethan. Yesterday I was
told by a
lady that needle tatting can be documented to quite early and she
said it's
On Jul 30, 2008, at 2:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm not aware of any real research into hosen and linings from
earlier than
the 16th century.
I'm not aware of any extant hosen (other than the buskins in
Canturbury
Cathedral, obviusly, but they're 12th century (offhand)).
snip
. The material is mostly coming out of my work cataloging
surviving pre-modern garments (plus a bit of Welsh stuff thrown in
for leavening). So if you happen to be in the area at loose ends,
I'd love to see a good turnout for the theater's sake.
Heather Rose Jones
On August 2, 2008 Vallejo
On Feb 8, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:
Thanks for the theses list. I do interlibrary loan and getting a
thesis loan from another library is about a 10%-25% success rate at
best.
Just a comment from the university point of view on the question:
Very often the university has
On Oct 14, 2007, at 3:59 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
Passing along a question from a friend that I can't answer myself:
Can anyone point me to which researchers would be the name
specialists studying and publishing about textiles from the Near
East and Aegean from the fourth and third
On Sep 25, 2007, at 8:02 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
I thought I had saved it but now I can't find the article someone
posted about an ancient beaded Egyptian dress that was discovered
some time ago. It included a photo of the garment. I wanted to
show my class. Anyone have the link, if
On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:57 AM, Kathy Page wrote:
Hello everyone,
The divorce saga continues. Ugh.
My collection is large enough that it's going to wind up on the
inventory list for the division of assets. Oh joy. I have to reduce
my collection to a bunch of numbers.
snip
Just a brief
On Sep 13, 2007, at 11:46 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
I recently looked through a (not yet published) costume book of one
of my friends which tells about clothing in the western Europe
around the 13th and 14th centuries. It is divided into chapters,
each for one specific garment (like
On Sep 13, 2007, at 3:50 PM, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:
As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps
getting in the way of completion. Sigh.
Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was
convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down
On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:41 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
I do not wish to imply that all women in all European cultures in
all times wore some sort of pants under their dresses, but do wish
to point out a few items still existing that no one has mentioned
The leather bikinis (late Roman
On Sep 14, 2007, at 1:03 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
Heather: In addition to the battle-for-the-pants genre, there are
other images
commonly circulated in the historic costuming community as evidence
for medieval women wearing underpants that -- when examined more
closely -- are using the
On Sep 7, 2007, at 1:34 PM, KLH wrote:
I'm looking for examples of 14th century men's coats. I'm not
particular
about the geographical area as long as it's European. Western
European is
best, but eastern would be fine in a pinch too. Need to make a
sleeved coat
for someone, but I want it
On Aug 5, 2007, at 5:46 AM, Frau Anna Bleucher wrote:
I am firmly of the belief that while no one looks you in the eye,
they're certainly not watching where their feet are going either. I
have a gown that has a very short train (about a foot). In walking
very quickly and purposefully in a
On Jun 20, 2007, at 9:28 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
On Jun 20, 2007, at 10:21 PM, Sheridan Alder wrote:
The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an
example of a time that you had to deal with a difficult situation,
customer, etc. Try to think of something, even if it
On Jun 13, 2007, at 4:09 PM, Jodi Nelson wrote:
I am looking for evidence of clothing made of silk in 9th-11th C
Viking society. Any ideas where I should look?
In addition to the headwear that Cathy mentioned, there are a couple
of good resources for silk used to _trim_ Viking clothing.
On Jun 5, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
I have heard that if you go to the Passport office itself, you can
walk it
through. That was years ago, don't know if it works today.
My son applied for his first passport on May 3 of this year. It
arrived in
the mail 8 days later.
(WIth
I received the following query (via my surviving garments web page)
from an author who needs help verifying a term. I'll post his
question below and will forward him anything people can provide to
help. (I haven't had a chance to check with him whether it would be
ok to post his e-mail
On Apr 27, 2007, at 3:14 PM, Dawn wrote:
Cynthia J Ley wrote:
Hi all. I need to hand roll a veil hem and have never done it before.
Could someone please give me instructions?
Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between
your thumb and finger and try and roll it into a
On Apr 25, 2007, at 11:31 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
Hello everyone, first up the short version of the question, does
anybody know what fabric 7th century Italian or English church
vestments (specifically the chasuble) would have been made of?
Read on if you're interested in why I need to
On Feb 24, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
I'm just about to do a gown from the mid 14th century Bohemia-
German, (could be France, too). It will be for a man from a lower
aristocratic class. So that's why I'm looking for some inspiration:-))
If you think that surviving
On Jan 29, 2007, at 7:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 1/29/2007 7:39:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
first and she said it was green because of plants
I believe the earliest form of chlorophyll was red.
The amusing thing in this philosophical
On Jan 2, 2007, at 5:00 AM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] movie costumes
In the one about Joseph, Potiphar and his wife look fantastic! If I
remembershe was in
. It's about 2/3 of the way down the
page. (The doll is about 10 tall.)
Heather
- Original Message -
From: Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] movie costumes
On Jan 2, 2007
On Jan 3, 2007, at 7:16 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
When did this evidence about Egyptian beaded net dresses surface?
I never heard of it before nor is it in my old costume history
books. It's been decades since I studied the history of costume,
but since I'm going to be teaching it this
On Dec 30, 2006, at 6:29 PM, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
The Schuette at the library takes two strong men to carry, so
Wanda's is
the one you speak of?
I don't know about two strong men, but the last time I took the pair
of volumes out of the library I decided to save my bad back by
carrying
Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
Dawn wrote:
But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing.
Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their
mouths and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's
a stick with fire coming out of it.
Let me try
On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:46 PM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:
Hello the list!
A friend sent me this website because he knows I like this stuff.
http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/
Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at?
The following web site might give a good clue -- it looks
On Oct 1, 2006, at 8:09 PM, otsisto wrote:
-Original Message-
http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
Which ones are your artwork?
De
The line drawings of the motifs on the Mammen page (10th c. Denmark).
Heather
Ah, I see. I remember the site that this info comes
On Sep 30, 2006, at 11:36 PM, otsisto wrote:
-Original Message-
http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
It's a very nice extensive site ... a pity the site owner is still
using some of my original art on it without attribution or permission
after I directly asked for it to
On Sep 29, 2006, at 12:09 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote:
At 07:55 29/09/2006, you wrote:
Thought this might interest you.
http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html
Sorry - meant for a private message but what the heck - it may
interest some of you too.
It's a very nice extensive site
On Sep 2, 2006, at 8:51 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote:
Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
In a message dated 9/2/2006 9:08:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
When did Paisley begin to be seen in western European textiles?
Some time in the early 1800s, when European weavers
if the problems you've noticed are still there.
Enjoy!
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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LJ:hrj
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me that there
are several examples in Sronkova's Gothic Woman's Fashion, but alas
I don't own a copy of that book.
But what I'm wondering is whether the author is trying to describe
something of this sort and accidentally evoking a later style of lace.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
On Mar 17, 2006, at 12:06 AM, Lena wrote:
--- Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
snip
There's an even better example in Walter Map's De
Nugis Curialium
where he tells a story of a monk whose order
disdained underpants as
being too luxurious, so that when he took a tumble
than figuring they can either get someone
to do piecework at sweatshop wages or pull the Tom Sawyer trick and
convince someone to do it for fun.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj
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of asceticism.
Heather
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://www.lavoltapress.com
The collection is pretty much entirely secular -- it's primarily
burial clothing of various nobles whose tombs are at the monastery.
It's an incredible resource and hasn't been studied in anywhere near
the depth it deserves to be.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL
On Mar 13, 2006, at 7:30 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:
*coming soon to a volume of Medieval Clothing Textiles ... vol. 4
I hope
(right, Heather?)
*meekly* Yes, ma'am.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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LJ:hrj
ways of creating seams with finished
edges pre-1600, often depending on the type of fabric involved. For
a non-exhaustive survey taken from archaeological textiles, check out
the article Archaeological sewing on my website (see sig line).
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http
) and when I do a major bookshelf
reorganization this year I should probably do a formal shelf-check as
well.
As someone else noted, it's also a convenient place to keep track of
who you've lent books out to and whether they've come back.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http
out in the dealers' room at Kalamazoo -- I
don't know that I'd buy it sight unseen.)
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote: [snip]
There isn't so much a problem with the neckline as that it's a
rather unusually shaped neckline. The particular angle of the
photograph is also not very good for seeing what's going on with the
neck. Asymmetric side-opening
E. 1974. Archaeology and Medieval Textiles given
at Irene Emery Roundtable on Mueseum Textiles.
Heather
--
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necklines are quite common among the
surviving garments of this era (what few there are).
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
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On Feb 16, 2006, at 9:29 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
On Friday 17 February 2006 12:11 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
[snip]
There isn't so much a problem with the neckline as that it's a
rather unusually shaped neckline. The particular angle of the
photograph is also not very good
.
It depends on what you mean by very many. Compared to how many
were made and worn--no. Compared to how many people _think_ are
still extant -- you might be surprised. (I know I have been.)
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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era. By the 16th
century in both Italy and Spain (somewhat earlier in Spain than
Italy) the social rules had clearly shifted. And outside Europe, the
pants=masculinity equation can't be assumed at all.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.heatherrosejones.com
LJ:hrj
it.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
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it was the appropriate thing to
do in their social context and not for any other objective reason.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
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other
inspirations.
If the wool is fairly springy or has much of a nap, I wouldn't expect
the stitches to show unless they're fairly big. On the other hand,
you could always treat any visible stitching as a deliberate design
element!
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http
respectively. (I keep forgetting what the current
standard English term is for the not-an-apron dress.)
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http
of the word for a specific type of thread-work, the
phrase hooks and crochets would simply mean hooks, and hooks-by-
another-name. There's no historic context for considering that the
phrase in a 16th c. document can only mean hooks and threadwork made
with a hook.
Heather
--
Heather Rose Jones
I'd done a little research into the history of the words
involved. Here's my posting from that list, along with the preceding
context.
Heather
===
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Heather Rose Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [HistoricKnit] Re: Greek mussel beard gloves
Cc
gown fabric is relatively heavy
(as seems to be the case from how it is depicted) and the gown is
relatively flared (ditto), then the change in volume of fabric
between the upper and lower edges of the belt may also help keep it
from slipping downwards.
Heather
--
*
Heather Rose Jones
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