The plans built are adequate, How mch time do you want to spend
building ?? Virg
On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:26:04 -0500 writes:
> Thinking of laminating my center spar caps and building in the
> dihedral. Do I do this at the center of the spar or where the spar
> exits the fuselage?
> Patri
net@list.krnet.org
Date: 02/09/05 08:26:36
To: gle...@rtconnect.net
Subject: Re: KR> Spar questions
B. Ferguson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
> the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
> a
Nice work Oscar.
One thing most people miss in the analysis, however, is the variability
of the materials. Wood can be 50 percent (or more) stronger than the
published low limit. So, we need to test the actual parts to be used,
or allow a reasonable safety factor for the material variability.
T
`Standard K R 2 Spar WILL NOT take longer outboard wings and
still meet specs, Virg
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 19:10:28 -0600 "B. Ferguson"
writes:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any
> of
> the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness
>But again, RR is emphatic about using the -1B wings on the -2 or -2S.
This much I am aware of from the 1B posts Mark L. stirred up a few days
before Christmas. Read as much as possible on the 1B in the archives.
The question would be was this analysis for the original spars in the
old airfoil? T
B. Ferguson wrote:
> This much I am aware of from the 1B posts Mark L. stirred up a few days
> before Christmas. Read as much as possible on the 1B in the archives.
> The question would be was this analysis for the original spars in the
> old airfoil?
It would certainly be for the original spars
Hello,
With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
airfoil, would add enough strength to the center section to allow for
fitting of the 1-B wings? Adding a large amount to the span would no
doubtedly l
B. Ferguson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
> the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
> airfoil, would add enough strength to the center section to allow for
> fitting of the 1-B wings? Adding a large amount to
Steve wrote-
>I would destruction test a pair of spars if I had the capability. I don't
>have any way of putting 4500 pounds of pressure on anything, much less
>getting the load distributed right.
Why test a pair of spars? One will do. And as far as a test setup and
apparatus, check out http:/
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
> Why test a pair of spars? One will do.
One stock, one laminated. Gotta have a control :)
> And as far as a test setup
> and apparatus, check out
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/wing/spartest.html and see if you can
> duplicate the high-tech test setup detailed there... PS; I
You can also test a scale model of a spar and obtain good results. Stan Hall
discussed the methodology for this in an early Sport Aviation article, two
actually.
Denny ...
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
Steve wrote-
>I would destruction test a pair of spars if I had the capability. I don't
>have any way
Does anyone have the dimensions of the spar caps (width and depth) and the
length and thickness of the blocks between them handy? I'm bored and feel
like figuring out how strong the things are.
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Check your plans, Virg
Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
>Check your plans, Virg
I would if they were here yet...
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
And he who waits will get the plans, Virg ( or should this have
been
sent direct??)
On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 14:41:36 -0600 "Bubba" writes:
> VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
> >Check your plans, Virg
>
> I would if they were here yet...
> --
> Steve
> N205FT
> mystic...@swbell.net
> He who
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
>And he who waits will get the plans, Virg ( or should this have
> been
> sent direct??)
And he who plans ahead and verifies the spar design in the plane is suitable
for his uses will survive to fly again.
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will f
I would still make up 2 samples and test each with and without the carbon fiber
to test their different load carrying abilities. I think you may find it
interesting. The "cuff" of carbon fiber will move the immediate loading of the
spar out board to the bare spar, while the carbon fiber will c
Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this issue as
documented by someone who
At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
>Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
>There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
>too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
I am a licensed professional engineer and I gave my short answer
Thanks Don.
Gav
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Reid"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber
> At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
> >Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand time
- Original Message -
From: "GavinandLouise"
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber
> > So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this
issue as
> documented by someone who really knows.
> Gav
I am quite concerned about all the useless discussio
Jim
I think you missed Marks point. It is not that he too lazy to design a new
spar for some other guy. Heck just look at his web site to see what he has
done for us. Instead he is busy with his own project and his spars are done.
If you or anyone else wants to undertake a redesign of the spar,
I was not referring to the spars, I think he has done real well on that,
I was thinking of the foam and glass on the fuselage replaceing the
plywood it would be a simple test if someone has all the materials.
Jim
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 12:44:01 -0500 "Brant Hollensbe"
writes:
> Jim
> I think you mis
Hello netters,
I became a Grandfather Saturday. Boy is he good looking.
I have been hanging back until I updated my anti virus program. Its done.
As far as KR.
I used the material list as specified in the plans and Wicks list. Tried to
purchase only the wood for the spars. Wrong. I now hav
I have a spar taper jig I used to taper the 89.5 inch spars in the plan view. I
can't seem to trash it. If someone wants it you can have it. (although you can
make one in about one hour.) I might even bring it to the gathering and put it
in the give-a-way pile. (Do we have one of those?)
How m
At 12:31 PM 8/23/04 +, you wrote:
>I have a spar taper jig I used to taper the 89.5 inch spars in the plan
view. I can't seem to trash it. If someone wants it you can have it.
(although you can make one in about one hour.) I might even bring it to the
gathering and put it in the give-a-way pile
Gavin
I just got the price below from Marine Timbers in Melbourne. The $445 was
for most of the Spruce need to build a KR Fuse. and the hoop pine ply per
sheet.
---
Phillip
price for hoop pine as per list - $445.00
3/32 (2mm) ply $66.55
1/8 (3mm) ply $66.55.
all prices include GST
ex mulgr
Can someone tell me what is the correct skin to use for the spars. I need to
place my order this week.
The plans call for 3/32 mahog. with birch or popular core. I noticed Mark used
birch plywood. According to Wicks prices it would be cheaper and I am about
cheaper.
Finally (I think this was co
mylist.net
Subject: KR> spar skins
Can someone tell me what is the correct skin to use for the spars. I need to
place my order this week.
The plans call for 3/32 mahog. with birch or popular core. I noticed Mark
used birch plywood. According to Wicks prices it would be cheaper and I am
about cheape
Thanks Brian,
I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If anyone
needs to stop me let me know.
Steven Phillabaum
Auburn Alabama>
> Use M90.
>
> I used Mahogany but it did cost a lot. My last two KRs had a lighter
> colored wood that I assumed was birch but I was no
Steven Phillabaum wrote:
> I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If
anyone needs to stop me let me know.
You're right about the cedar. That's the one place on the plane that birch
is required, rather than mahogony.
Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "at" hiwa
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 10:35 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
Steven Phillabaum wrote:
> I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If
anyone needs to stop me let me know.
You're right about the cedar. That's the on
Sorry about the cedar comment. I had a picture of mahogony in what little
brain I have left, and it came out as cedar instead. They kind of look
alike, from about a hundred yards or so.
I don't have a manual in front of me right now, but I believe the manual
says that either mahogany or birch is
"Somebody else is
welcome to check for us..."
Ok I'm reading it right now, so I'll have a look
p.19.
"3/32 plywood
3 ply mahogany, birch or
poplar center."
Cheers.
Peter Bancks
stranged...@dodo.com.au
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com
http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net
For what it's worth, from the KRnet search engine at
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp , using "birch plywood spar" got a
bunch of hits, the one below included. Maybe it's where I got the idea, but
I don't think anybody will argue that birch is not the stronger of the two,
and hence a good
And having said that, here's one from Don Reid where he advocates running
the grain horizontal, rather than vertical. I'd trust just about anything
Don says as gospel.
--
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Jul 20, 1999 8:27 AM
From: Donald Reid
Sub
tives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of StRaNgEdAyS
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 7:44 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
"Somebody else is
welcome to check for us..."
Ok I'm readin
e ply) and at
about $80 aud for an 8' x 4' sheet it's a whole lot cheaper than all the
other aicraft grade products!
Gavin
Australia
- Original Message -
From: "StRaNgEdAyS"
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
[mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 8:06 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
And having said that, here's one from Don Reid where he advocates running
the grain horizontal, rather than vertical. I'd trust just about anyt
> thickness # plysparallel perpendicular
> 0.125" 3 15.17 5.544
... but after looking at these numbers, I think I just started an argument
with myself. I had to wonder what's wrong with vertical, since that would
be "parallel to the grain", and by far the strongest.
No one has mentioned the 5/8" vertical spruce blocks that the plans call for
when building KR spars. The spars are a variant of an I-beam. The function of
the web in any I beam or box beam is to keep the two caps from coming together.
No matter what loading is put on the beam - plus or minus
At 08:52 AM 7/1/2004, you wrote:
> > thickness # plysparallel perpendicular
> > 0.125" 3 15.17 5.544
>
>... but after looking at these numbers, I think I just started an argument
>with myself. I had to wonder what's wrong with vertical, since that would
>be "parallel
I thought you were an electrical engineer :)
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 09:21:24 -0400
"Wood, Sidney M." wrote:
>No one has mentioned the 5/8" vertical spruce blocks that
>the plans call for when building KR spars. The spars are
>a variant of an I-beam. The function of the web in any I
>beam or b
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:21 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: RE: KR> spar skins
Plywood has an odd number of plies with outside plies in the same grain
orientation. That is the strongest dimension orientation.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@t
My main reason for stating that you should not drill through the glue
joint was because it is very hard to keep a drill bit going straight
+
Good point - could ruin an expensive spar if the drill bit goes walkies.
>>>.
If I build anoth
At 09:58 AM 6/10/2004, you wrote:
>Thanks - that gives me more confidence. Still bothers me that Don Reid
>did not like the idea - I was expecting a boffin (like him) to step up
>and declare this to be as good as (or better).
>
>My instinct is to stagger the WAF bolt holes so as to void having th
In a message dated 6/10/2004 9:59:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ask...@microlink.zm writes:
What size bolt holes are required for mounting the Diehl type u/c? (I
have old KR plans with retracts).
I presume that the Grove rendition has bolts all the way through the
spar from the bottom up?
Steve,
I was expecting a boffin (like him) to step up and
declare this to be as good as (or better).
You should notice that in my original answer, I said
"should not go through the glue line". I did not say
"must not".
..
And then gods came down from the heavens and the gods
spoke.
What's a boffin?
See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
"There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for
building has long since expired."
Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA
I would try to align the laminations so that the hole misses the glue
Line. If I could not, then I would make darn sure that the hole is well
drilled, perpendicular and also reamed to size.
As long as the spacing is greater than the allowable minimum, it makes
no
difference at all whether the
Dan said,
What's a boffin?
Dan,
About a dollar eighty ;o)
Ron Freiberger
mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com
t.net]On
Behalf Of Stephen Jacobs
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 12:34 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR>Spar lamination direction - Phew
I would try to align the laminations so that the hole misses the glue
Line. If I could not, then I would make darn sure that the hole is well
drilled,
At 06:51 PM 6/11/2004, you wrote:
>I was reading Tony Bingellis's book last night and he said not to ream a
>hole in wood because it will come out oversized. I have never tried it.
I did a set of tests before I did mine. After reaming, the fit was
perfect. Half of the bolts were very difficult
Mark, I noticed on your web page that you laminated the spar caps with the
pieces one on top of the other as viewed with the spar standing vertically.
The plans don't really say, but a spruce list I have from Rand seems to
indicate that the pieces were intended to go side by side, as in the glue
jo
At 07:15 PM 6/8/2004, you wrote:
>Mark, I noticed on your web page that you laminated the spar caps with the
>pieces one on top of the other as viewed with the spar standing vertically.
>The plans don't really say, but a spruce list I have from Rand seems to
>indicate that the pieces were intended
Before I looked at Mark's site I did a lot of thinking on what order I would
do what on my spar construction and this is what I came up with.
I needed to buy a 12' countertop anyway for my office so I was going to
level it with a precision machinist's level to be sure it was perfectly flat
and lev
me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html
- Original Message -
From: "Brian Kraut"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:55 PM
Subject: KR> spar construction
> Before I looked at
that T-88 is as slick as owl poop until it starts to set and things can move
around if you are not careful.
Never seen owl poop But,
Warm the T88 in hot water, or warm water, or sit it the sun, it works much
better, but may GO off a bit faster
Phillip Matheson
mathe..
, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Jones
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:24 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> spar construction
Sounds like a plan to me Brian. And well thought out. You should have
suffici
His take on it is exactly that, it doesn't matter either way, but don't
put a bolt through the glue line.
+++
This would otherwise be my reaction as well - but I am forced to give
the matter more thought. My centre section spar caps comprise 6mm
(1/4") laminations to allo
Steve Jacobs wrote:
> My second reaction was to re-read all my material on glue joints. Every
> indication is that a properly done glue joint is as at least as strong
> as the host material. A scarf joint is allowed in a wing spar (cap)
> according to AC43 - at an angle similar to the minimum sp
...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:20 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR>Spar lamination direction - Oops
Steve Jacobs wrote:
> My second reaction was to re-read all my material on glue joints. Every
> indication is that a properly done glue joint is as at
Outer spars taper to 1" in plan view and 11/16 in side
view (front view)
For what it is worth, I think that is crazy - reduces
attachment area for wing surfaces (skins). Mine will
taper in front view only - constant 1-15/16 thickness
in plan view for max glue area.
Need the rear spars?
Ed
In a message dated 5/21/2004 8:13:09 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
edpsea...@yahoo.co.uk writes:
Outer spars taper to 1" in plan view and 11/16 in side
view (front view)
Well, Which airfoil are you using? If I had it to do over again I would make
my spar caps thicker at the root on the outer wi
s
and what kind of landing gear you are going to use?
BR: Mikko
riginal Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: KR> spar cap width
> In a message dated 5/21/2004 8:13:09 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> edpsea...@yahoo.co.uk writes:
> Outer spa
Thanks Edward.
Stupid question... Is the height of the root end of the outside spar the same
as the height of the center spar? From what I can tell it is.
Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, Alabama
>
> From: Edward Seaman
> Date: 2004/05/21 Fri PM 03:12:27 GMT
> To: KRnet
> Subjec
> Stupid question... Is the height of the root end of
> the outside spar the same as the height of the
> center spar? From what I can tell it is.
The only stupid question is the one you have, but
don't ask.
No - they are not the same - the centre section cap is
2" deep and the outer is 1-7/8"
In a message dated 5/24/2004 5:15:43 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
edpsea...@yahoo.co.uk writes:
> Stupid question... Is the height of the root end of
> the outside spar the same as the height of the
> center spar? From what I can tell it is.
I think he is asking if the outer spars total thicknes
YES, Thank you.
The net can answer questions.
Steven
>
> From: boeing757me...@aol.com
> Date: 2004/05/24 Mon PM 03:43:56 GMT
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: Re: KR> spar cap width
>
> In a message dated 5/24/2004 5:15:43 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> e
Help I am missing something.
I can't find the width (plan view) for the the spar cap of the outboard forward
spar. I have found dimension errors (I think). I am using the New wings as
down loaded from Marks site. I don't need any other dimensions If you know
the answer please let me know
> I can't find the width (plan view) for the the spar cap of the outboard
forward spar.
Those spars in plan view are the same as the KR2S plans call for, so look in
your RR plans for those numbers.
>I have found dimension errors (I think).
Oh, really?
Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "a
I wrote,
> > I can't find the width (plan view) for the the spar cap of the outboard
> forward spar.
Mark wrote
> Those spars in plan view are the same as the KR2S plans call for, so look in
> your RR plans for those numbers.
Thanks, I of course found 1 15/16" x 1 7/8" x 78" for the outside forw
Good day all - some advice would be greatly appreciated.
My plans are very old (circa 1976/77) so some of this may not make sense
to those with more recent issues.
The spar pillar spacing for the centre section (Main Spar) varies -
typically:
FWD Spar Dwg 5 (from the centre out) - 7.5"; 7"; 5";
Just a reminder(probably not needed here), that increasing the structural
integrity along one axis may also call for compensation along other axis.
>>> Just a reminder(probably not needed here), that increasing the
>>> structural integrity along one axis may also call for compensation
>>> along other axis.
Roger that Joe - I am reading as much as I can on that. Are you
referring to wing rigidity in twisting as the other axis?
I read things
quot;
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 5:27 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Spar Integrity
> >>> Just a reminder(probably not needed here), that increasing the
> >>> structural integrity along one axis may also call for compensation
> >>> along other axis.
>
>
> R
--- Stephen Jacobs wrote: > > Hi
Stve
Been watching for a while and joined recently - hope
to start a KR2S this summer.
+++My plans are very old (circa 1976/77)
No kidding - that is nearly 30 years - how long has
this little airplane been around?
+++Maybe spar breathing?
I have seen pictures
>+++My plans are very old (circa 1976/77)
Get the new ones (1990). They are substantially better. (I have both).
>No kidding - that is nearly 30 years - how long has
>this little airplane been around?
1972.
Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com
Good morning.
I looked in the KR Archive and did not find my answer.
Is the Spar caps the same width on the new wing (AS5048/5) as the wing with the
plans? Should I change my spruce order other than the basic order for the KR2S?
Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, AL.
Steven Phillabaum wrote:
> Is the Spar caps the same width on the new wing (AS5048/5) as the wing
with the plans? Should I change my spruce order other than the basic order
for the KR2S?<
Spar caps are made from the same wood. If anything, you might need a little
more of the spacer material bet
When building the "boat", the spreading of the top longerons
tends to pull the top of the firewall back and thus give
the engine thrust line a slightly positive angle. This might
further explain the need for many KR's to fly with a more
nose down attitude. Using the firewall as a reference when
Hi All,
Wow I've had a big day
I got about 10 hours done on my 2S.
Horizontal stab glassed on the top, Spars fitted and ready for gluing, it's
amazing how much time can be spent checking and double checking for level.
Cockpit floor made and ready to glue in once I establish where my rudder p
Gavin,
1 layer of glass is good. If you overlap the top around to the bottom about
2 inches and the bottom around to the top, about 2 inches, you will have 2
layers on the leading edge which is good.
Search the archives on this sealer topic. You will find that the favorite is
to use resin, thinn
>Question - How long does my rear spar have to be, what is the angle of my
rear spar, what are the angles to make the rear wafs to (#2 fitting and #3
fitting), what dimension from the bend line are my end mount holes?
Steve
Steve,
If I
At 06:23 AM 1/8/04 -0600, you wrote:
>>Question - How long does my rear spar have to be, what is the angle of my
>rear spar, what are the angles to make the rear wafs to (#2 fitting and #3
>fitting), what dimension from the bend line are my end mount holes?
>Steve
>
I hope I am using the correct procedure as this is my first communication th
KRNet. I do want to reply to the inquiry regarding the application of ply
webbs on the wing spars. There is a b apparent inconsistency in the directions
given in the manual and those given in the plans. I brought thi
To All,
I've been asked to assist in the repair of what appears to be a KR
derivitive. The center section of the box-type front spar is fabricated in the
typical
KR method of upper & lower booms faced with ply shear webs. Wing is fiberglas
over foam. The plane is not new and has accumulated
Bob Hoover wrote:
> Question: Is 1-1/2" the normal thickness for these booms?
The KR main spar caps for the center section are usually 2" thick (top to
bottom) and 2-5/32" wide with vertical spacer blocks every 7-9", faced with
3/32" plywood. The whole thing is about 7.2" tall. The outboard wi
veedu...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 4:49 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
To All,
I've been asked to assist in the repair of what appears to be a KR
derivitive. The center section of the box-type front spar is fabricated in
the typical
KR method of upper
ginal Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 1:48 PM
Subject: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
> To All,
>
> I've been asked to assist in the repair of what appears to be a KR
> derivitive. The center section of the box-type front spar is fabricated in
the typ
In a message dated 10/13/03 3:22:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wa...@hispeedwireless.com writes:
> Does anyone realise that bob hoover is on the krnet?
---
Dear Wayne,
You may have me confused with the real Bob Hoover. He's the world's b
Sorry I guess I just got all afire and jumped without looking close.But just
so you know I'm telling my wife that I talked to Bob Hoover today.
Thanks
Wayne
- Original Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
> I
Bob Hoover wrote:
> You may have me confused with the real Bob Hoover. He's the world's best
> pilot. I'm a part-time mechanic.
Don't let him fool you with that modesty. He's THE Bob Hoover in my book...
the guy that's done more for the total understanding of VW engines than any
other person o
Mark Langford
To: KR builders and pilots
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
> Bob Hoover wrote:
>
> > You may have me confused with the real Bob Hoover. He's the world's
best
> > pilot. I'm a part-time mecha
209-609-8774
skyguy...@skyguynca.com
www.skyguynca.com
- Original Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
> In a message dated 10/13/03 3:22:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> wa...@hispeedwireless.com writes:
>
>
- Original Message -
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 4:48 AM
Subject: KR>Spar dimensions, help needed
> To All,
>
> I've been asked to assist in the repair of what appears to be a KR
> derivitive. The center section of the box-type front spar is fabri
Gavin,
All that I have read and found while working myself is that you should wipe up
the glue as you assemble; it is too easy to damage the joint or surrounding
wood chipping off, especially near joints. Also don't clamp the joints so tight
as to squeeze all the glue out. Apply just enough pres
>nor as heavy. If you have the dihedral begin at the fuselage, then the spar
has to be alot stronger, and therefore heavier. If this is true, and I
don't have reason to doubt him, then basically doing away with the stub wing
and beginning the dihedral at the fuselage will require a significantly
s
I'm open for suggestions on how to bend the rear spar brackets forward the 3
degrees. Im not sure myself how to do correctly Can anyone help..
Thanks
Tim
Gettysburg PA
101 - 199 of 199 matches
Mail list logo
