Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[David Woolley]

When you are interacting with a USB thumb drive, you are normally 
interacting with a USB mass storage class device, not with raw USB. 
Most cheap USB boltons to hardware are done with the communications 
class, and emulate an asynchronous serial port (although some may use 
the human interface device (mouse/keyboard) class.


As such, the ability to write code for the thumb drive doesn't mean you 
can use the same code on the wattmeter, even though the chances are that 
the USB side can be treated as though it were something else.


--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123.

On 05/09/2020 01:57, kevinr wrote:
I just wrote a little code using Posix standards under Ubuntu with g++ 
for my compiler.  Looks like USB is treated as a normal stream of 
characters.  The most difficult part was finding my USB thumb drive in 
the file system.



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I have successfully used an Arduino to talk to a W2. Like Bruce I could not
get it to work with SoftwareSerial, only the hardware Serial port would
work. I have it working with an Uno, a Nano and a Mega all using the Serial
port. Lest you are tempted to use the hardware serial ports Serial1, Serial2
or Serial3 on the Mega, they will also will not work.

I did not test with a W1 but based on what has been described here I expect
it behaves the same as the W2.

Unfortunately the same Serial port is used to download the program via USB,
so you need to disconnect the W2 (or W1) when doing downloads.

73,
Lou   W2ROW




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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[K1FFX]

And for trying out W1 commands and seeing what the expected response is, it's
handy to
use a terminal emulator that will talk over a serial (or serial via USB)
port.  I use 
putty for this purpose (and actually never built a program ... I just fire
up putty
when I want to get a more precise power readout from the W1).

I played around with trying to build an Arduino version .. thought it would
be fun
to display W1 output on an LCD ... I used SoftwareSerial on the Arduino, but
never
succeeded in getting it to talk to the W1.

-   Bruce K1FFX




-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982 KSB2 KAT100-1 KAF2 KIO2

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

Guys - thanks for the replies! I might have enough info to get started. That 
is, after the W1 gets here from Watsonville and I get it soldered together. 
I’ll be doing it in Xojo (based on Real Basic) and can port it to the Rpi 
and/or Linux should I ever got it working.

73 & thanks, Jim / W6JHB

> On Sep 4, 2020, at 2:46 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just ordered the nifty little W1 Wattmeter. I see that it can supply serial 
> data to an external program, and that there is a free download of a Visual 
> Basic program on the Elecraft web site. I use a Mac and a Raspberry Pi and do 
> not have VB on either, nor do I want to. I’m fairly proficient in several 
> other programming languages and am thinking that I might “roll my own”, 
> starting on the Mac.
> 
> I know that this is a stretch, but has anyone done this? I know - hahahaha… 
> OK, how about anyone out there who has read serial data (coming over USB with 
> the Elecraft Serial->USB cable? Any pointers or links to documentation on how 
> to do that?
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[kevinr]

I just wrote a little code using Posix standards under Ubuntu with g++ 
for my compiler.  Looks like USB is treated as a normal stream of 
characters.  The most difficult part was finding my USB thumb drive in 
the file system.  Under Ubuntu it is in the /media folder.  Once I 
located it I was able to read from it, and write to it, using 
straightforward code.  The W1 wattmeter should react the same way.  
Write a trap to catch the data packet then a little code to parse it 
however you like.  I did not know it would be so simple: open(), read(), 
write(), close().


Since Macs are running Linux, with enhancements, writing code to catch 
the wattmeter's data stream should not be difficult.  I assume you can 
send it commands too.  You will need to determine how a data packet is 
formed but that is part of the fun.


   73 and GL,

   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 9/4/20 2:46 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

I just ordered the nifty little W1 Wattmeter. I see that it can supply serial 
data to an external program, and that there is a free download of a Visual 
Basic program on the Elecraft web site. I use a Mac and a Raspberry Pi and do 
not have VB on either, nor do I want to. I’m fairly proficient in several other 
programming languages and am thinking that I might “roll my own”, starting on 
the Mac.

I know that this is a stretch, but has anyone done this? I know - hahahaha… OK, 
how about anyone out there who has read serial data (coming over USB with the 
Elecraft Serial->USB cable? Any pointers or links to documentation on how to do 
that?

Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Checkout

[Brian Heinitz]

Don,

Good tip. I just checked again, making sure I wasn't in contact with anything, 
and got the same result. I confirmed the accuracy of my DMM against several 
resisters from my spare parts inventory, and received accurate readings in the 
lower resistance ranges, but did not have anything in higher resistance, or 
enough smaller resisters to string together in series to verify the 2M range 
setting of the meter. It is a no-name meter I bought from a hardware store a 
few years ago, and I have a new one on my wish list. But at this point I have 
no evidence that this meter is inaccurate.

Although I have not had the opportunity to connect the unit to an antenna 
system, the rest of the functionality tests out fine so far.

Thanks!

Brian Heinitz
KI7LKB
n17...@gmail.com

> On Apr 29, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Brian,
> 
> Were your fingers clear of the metal parts of the probes when you made that 
> resistance measurement?  If not, you may have been measuring the resistance 
> of your body.  That is common when making very high resistance measurement.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/29/2017 5:11 PM, Brian Heinitz wrote:
>> The only aspect of the checkout and calibration which was not normal was the 
>> resistance test across the battery holder terminal. With the power switch ON 
>> and no battery or DC power connected to the unit, the resistance should be > 
>> 1 megohm. With my DMM on 2M ohms selection, I receive a reading of 0.651, 
>> which is < 1 megohm.
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Kit -- For cost of mailing it to you.

[Phil Hystad]

Wow, that went fast!  Sorry, but the W1 Kit has been taken.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On Apr 29, 2017, at 3:16 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> I have a W1 power meter kit.  I started it a while back but was interrupted 
> and never got back to it.  It is way down low on my list of things to do plus 
> I have no strong usage for it anymore.  So I would like to GIVE it to someone 
> who would like to take over.  All parts and everything else is available, I 
> even have the marked spot that I had worked through on the kit build.
> 
> It is available to the first person who would like it.  If I can send in mail 
> for low cost, I will not bother charging for the cost of shipping.  
> Otherwise, would prefer help in cost of shipping.  It is very light though.
> 
> Contact me offline if interested.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Checkout

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

Were your fingers clear of the metal parts of the probes when you made 
that resistance measurement?  If not, you may have been measuring the 
resistance of your body.  That is common when making very high 
resistance measurement.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/29/2017 5:11 PM, Brian Heinitz wrote:

The only aspect of the checkout and calibration which was not normal was the 
resistance test across the battery holder terminal. With the power switch ON and no 
battery or DC power connected to the unit, the resistance should be > 1 megohm. 
With my DMM on 2M ohms selection, I receive a reading of 0.651, which is < 1 
megohm.

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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

When you turn off the switch on the meter you are cutting power.

When you turn of the PS you are probably watching the PS Caps bleed down to 
zero (hence the fade)



  From: stan levandowski 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 12:25 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question
   
Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on" 
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?

I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using 
it perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.


I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the 
green LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, 
the same LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the 
microprocessor is involved in shutdown.


I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via 
their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking 
for trouble here??


Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Chip Stratton]

I rewired mine so that it is always on when connected to external 12V, and
the switch just switches the battery into the circuit for portable
operation. I

 was always killing the battery by forgetting to turn it off when I powered
down the station, this takes care of that problem!

Chip
AE5KA

On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 12:25 PM, stan levandowski 
wrote:

> Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on"
> position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?
>
> I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using it
> perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.
>
>
> I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the green
> LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, the same
> LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the microprocessor is
> involved in shutdown.
>
>
> I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via
> their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking for
> trouble here??
>
>
> Thanks and 73,
> Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Stan,

That orderly shutdown process only applies to the K3, K3S, KX3, KX2, P3, 
PX3, KXPA100, KPA500, and KAT500.
The rest of the gear that Elecraft produces can be powered on/off with 
the station supply with no ill effects.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2017 12:25 PM, stan levandowski wrote:

Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on"
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?


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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Bob Novas]

Ed - What are you putting the output power to --  a dummy load or an
antenna?  Do you have the KAT internal antenna tuner?  If there is an SWR on
the antenna line that the KAT is tuning out for the transceiver, then the W1
will read forward power and reverse power on the antenna line whereas the K3
will read output power.  If you subtract the W1's reverse power reading from
the W1's forward power reading, does that compare to the K3's power reading?
Try reading the two power meters into a good dummy load. Then the K3 reading
and the W1 forward reading should be equal. Bob - W3DK

> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed
> Lambert
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 6:33 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] W1
> 
> It is probably necessary to restate my question with more precision.
> 
> 1.   I have calibrated the K3s using Elecraft K3 Utility
> 
> 2.   I have carefully calibrated the W1 using the DDM method with a
good
> quality DDM.
> 
> 3.   Comparing the results, I see that the W1 consistently calculates
> power about 1 dB higher than the K3s. Statistically, I would have expected
them
> to be closer. From the W1 specifications, and not knowing the K3s power
> accuracy specifications, it seems that, possibly, the K3s is displaying
about 3
> sigma low and the W1 3 sigma high, which is unlikely.
> 
> 4.   The question: Should the K3s be calibrated from the W1 or should
> the W1 be calibrated from the K3s?
> 
> (There could be a detailed, separate discussion of the meaning of
"average"
> power and "PEP" as used in the W1 programming reference. It is my belief
that
> the two should be the same thing if using a cw signal and the FCC
definition of
> "PEP". It would be interesting to know what is going on in the K3s
transmitter
> gain calibration process. It seems like there is an internal power
measurement
> process and the gain is being set against that. Does that internal
measurement
> process have accuracy equivalent to the W1 or vice
> versa?)
> 
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> KD3Y
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[John Oppenheimer]

I performed some additional research, Johnny, VR2XMC, measured TP1 V at
4.82 back in December 2006. Maybe the 4.5 is a typo and should be 4.8:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/some-questions-of-W1-td442330.html

John KN5L

On 12/31/2015 06:22 AM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
> Hi Ed.
> 
> The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my
> W1. My hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established
> the TP1 DC calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> 
> I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on
> comments from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> 
> My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> 
> Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> 
> Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> 
> TP1 V = 4.812
> KX3 power = 7.0 W
> W1 power = 7.02
> DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> 
> The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> 
> John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[John Oppenheimer]

Hi Ed.

The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my
W1. My hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established
the TP1 DC calibration voltage almost a decade ago.

I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on
comments from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.

My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V

Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1

Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm

TP1 V = 4.812
KX3 power = 7.0 W
W1 power = 7.02
DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts

The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
measurements equals 7.00 watts.

John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Robert Nobis]

Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?

Happy New Year.

73,

Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Dec 31, 2015, at 09:42, Ed Lambert <g_e_lamb...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Thank you for your response.
> My original K3s test setup was per the manual: good quality dummy load (not
> the DL1 because of its 20 watt upper limit) with the ATU off. My high
> quality dummy load does not have a test point.
> After reading your results, I decided to take the DL1 as my "truth model". I
> found that the W1 display was 0.8 dB high and the K3s power display was 0.9
> dB low. Each one was at the opposite end of the error budget. (sort of like
> winning the "losers" lottery).
> So, I set up the W1 to match the DL1 up to 20 watts and, surprise, the W1 TP
> voltage is now 4.87 volts.
> I don't have the W1 software and cabling installed yet. At that time I can
> fine tune all of this.
> It seems as though a consensus is building that the W1 manual specification
> of 4.5 volts is no longer correct, unless there is something "off" with the
> W1 internal algorithm.
> Good stuff. Thank you everyone for your comments and help.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
> Oppenheimer
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 7:22 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1
> 
> Hi Ed.
> 
> The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my W1. My
> hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established the TP1 DC
> calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> 
> I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on comments
> from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> 
> My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> 
> Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> 
> Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> 
> TP1 V = 4.812
> KX3 power = 7.0 W
> W1 power = 7.02
> DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> 
> The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> 
> John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Lewis Phelps]

“Because it’s there.” 

George Leigh Mallory, 1923, answering the question why he continued to try to 
climb to the summit of Mt. Everest.

73,

Lew N6LEW

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?
> 
> Happy New Year.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

For the same reason I find the AUTO SPOT function to be in error some 2 Hz.

73
Bob, K4TAX

On 12/31/2015 3:36 PM, Gary Smith wrote:

Because accuracy is or isn't.

73,

HNY

Gary
KA1J



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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Gary Smith]

Because accuracy is or isn't.

73,

HNY 

Gary
KA1J

> Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?
> 
> Happy New Year.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
> 
> 
> > On Dec 31, 2015, at 09:42, Ed Lambert <g_e_lamb...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > John,
> > 
> > Thank you for your response.
> > My original K3s test setup was per the manual: good quality dummy load (not
> > the DL1 because of its 20 watt upper limit) with the ATU off. My high
> > quality dummy load does not have a test point.
> > After reading your results, I decided to take the DL1 as my "truth model". I
> > found that the W1 display was 0.8 dB high and the K3s power display was 0.9
> > dB low. Each one was at the opposite end of the error budget. (sort of like
> > winning the "losers" lottery).
> > So, I set up the W1 to match the DL1 up to 20 watts and, surprise, the W1 TP
> > voltage is now 4.87 volts.
> > I don't have the W1 software and cabling installed yet. At that time I can
> > fine tune all of this.
> > It seems as though a consensus is building that the W1 manual specification
> > of 4.5 volts is no longer correct, unless there is something "off" with the
> > W1 internal algorithm.
> > Good stuff. Thank you everyone for your comments and help.
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
> > Oppenheimer
> > Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 7:22 AM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1
> > 
> > Hi Ed.
> > 
> > The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my W1. My
> > hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established the TP1 DC
> > calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> > 
> > I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on comments
> > from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> > 
> > My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> > 
> > Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> > 
> > Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> > http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> > 
> > TP1 V = 4.812
> > KX3 power = 7.0 W
> > W1 power = 7.02
> > DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> > 
> > The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> > directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> > measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> > 
> > John KN5L
> > __
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> > delivered to g_e_lamb...@comcast.net
> > 
> > __
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> > 
> 
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> 



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I believe that is the case.

73,
Eric
elecraft.com

On 1/13/2015 8:34 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.



I am convinced it was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can 
confirm.

PEH's iPad



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Augie Gus Hansen]

You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and later 
model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.



The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very 
nice 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak 
reading capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate 
meters. This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.


For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)


Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Peace Phil:
I don't doubt what you say. I'm sure you are familiar with Mr. Murphy. If the 
typo was made by document control and given to the RP (writer, tech, engineer, 
etc.) then that would explain the consistency of the error. Once created bad 
files are forever. Been there, done that.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 8:34 PM
To: Fred Townsend
Cc: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.  I am convinced it 
was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can confirm. 

PEH's iPad

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:19 PM, Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
 Phil Hystad
 Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1
 
 The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
 document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
 contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
 through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of 
 the WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout 
 with the exception of the label that said WM1.
 
 So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing 
 nor some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put 
 their name on the PCB board!
 
 I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because 
 there was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. 
 This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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 email
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 list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
 fptowns...@earthlink.net
 
 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 
 01/13/15
 


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of the 
WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout with the 
exception of the label that said WM1.

So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing nor 
some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put their name 
on the PCB board!

I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because there 
was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.

73, phil, K7PEH

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. This 
 is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Phil Hystad]

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.  I am convinced it 
was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can confirm. 

PEH's iPad

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:19 PM, Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
 Hystad
 Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1
 
 The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
 document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
 contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
 through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of 
 the WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout 
 with the exception of the label that said WM1.
 
 So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing 
 nor some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put 
 their name on the PCB board!
 
 I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because 
 there was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. 
 This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Phil Hystad]

The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of the 
WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout with the 
exception of the label that said WM1.

So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing nor 
some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put their name 
on the PCB board!

I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because there 
was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.

73, phil, K7PEH

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. This 
 is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a quality 
 instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and reverse power 
 measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown directly - it must be 
 calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[dyarnes]

You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and later 
model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.  

The Oak Hills watt meters were first offered in the mid 90’s, and were very 
popular—still are I guess.  I have a WM1, but the WM2 was something of an 
improved version I think.  Very accurate, but much bigger than the Elecraft W1, 
and limited to QRP levels.

I think you can still get a WM2 through Milestone Technologies.  Check this 
link out:  http://www.ohr.com/

Dave W7AQK

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Re: [Elecraft] W1/K2 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

I would suggest if you do that, to use the cathode of D12 for the source 
of your voltage.  That is turned on/OFF with the K2 power switch.

The K2 maximum current (CAL CUR) is normally set to 3.50, and the 
internal fuse is rated at 5 Amps.
The difference is 150 ma, but I would suggest limiting the draw to 100 
ma or less.  The W1 is spec'ed at 30 ma with 10 LEDs lighted, so no problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/9/2012 7:43 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
 Hi gang,
 I have a W1 watt meter, which I probably purchased just before the W2
 was released, and I'm finally fed up with changing the 9 volt battery
 every time I forget to turn the W1 off.  So I'm thinking of pulling the
 voltage from my K2 to power the W1.

 In the back of my mind I'm remembering a thread from a good number of
 years ago which advised Don't pull any voltage from the K2 for external
 uses.  Does anyone know if it would be OK to take 9 to 13 volts from
 the K2 to power my W1 (which really doesn't draw much current).  If so,
 has any one tapped into the K2 to set up a voltage out jack?  I'd be
 interested in knowing where you took the voltage. I'm looking at P3 or
 perhaps F1 (I have the the battery installed in the K2).

 OK and thanks for any help you may provide.

 Tom, WB2QDG
 K2 #1103


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 metallic enclosure

[Mike Markowski]

Bob,

It's probably the enclosure made by Heinz HB9BCB.  Some photos are at 
the bottom of my W1 page at

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

Heinz did an excellent job on it and other Elecraft accessories!  73,

Mike ab3ap

On 03/15/2012 09:24 PM, k7hbg @dslextreme.com wrote:
 Howdy Everyone;

   A few days ago someone provided a picture of a beautiful W1 metal
 enclosure.
 I can't find the e-mail containing this picture or link and was wondering
 if somebody
 here could give a bit of direction to this e-mail.

 Many thanks for any info! Bob, K7HBG
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Re: [Elecraft] W1: Can you remote the readout lightbars?

[L. D. Ingram]

Jim,

Yes, I did it some time ago.

You can see pictures of what I did on my web site www.lawrenceingram.com
Let me know if you have any questions

73,

Larry Ingram  AG4NN

At 02:08 PM 5/28/2010, you wrote:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Does anyone know if the W1 wattmeter LED lightbar readouts can be 
physically and electrically remoted from the rest of the circuit 
board, e.g. say, cut the board and use wire flat ribbon?  Anyone 
tried this?  Doing so would make mounting the board in an enclosure 
so much easier.  Jim Robbins, N1JR

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

[David Fleming]

Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

[K5WA]

Thanks David.  I see that my keen eye for detail is still active.



-Original Message-
From: David Fleming [mailto:df...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:53 AM
To: K5WA
Cc: Elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 - W1 wattmeter for Sale

[Robert Dorchuck]

The W1 Wattmeter has been sold.
Thanks,
Bob  W6VY
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 - Power readout Low

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

Check Q1 - does it have zero ohms resistance (when powered) from the 
drain to ground?  It should when in the low range, but not in the high 
range.
Q2 and Q5 should behave similarly.

It seems your W1 is stuck in the high range even though the firmware 
thinks otherwise - that would be a logical consequence of a shorted Q1, 
Q2 and/or Q5.

It my guess here is not correct, then the firmware chip itself may have 
a faulty input for the VSCL signal.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Heinsohn wrote:
   I recently built a W1.  It worked fine both via the LEDs and remotely 
 via the puter.  About a week ago the indicated output power dropped such 
 that it always shows less than 1.4w.  The selected output on the K2 is 
 5w.  My old analog 200w scale power meter still shows about 5w as it did 
 when the W1 was agreeing with it.  Any ideas what's changed that might 
 cause this?  I've looked at the manual and checked the settings on the 
 remote program.  Even locked the W1 to the 14w scale with no effect.

 TNX
 de
 kd0r
 David
   

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Brett Howard]

I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?  

I should explain:
ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
or
IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)

For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
cost. ;)

~BTH

On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,
 
 I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 David Heinsohn wrote:
I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
  circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
  silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
  and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
  board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
 
  TNX
  de
  KD0R
  David

 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Matt Palmer]

ENIG is better but unless its class 3 equipment it doesnt make much
difference


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO




On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?

 I should explain:
 ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
 or
 IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)

 For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
 more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
 when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
 cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
 referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
 accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
 cost. ;)

 ~BTH

 On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,

 I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Heinsohn wrote:
    I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the
  circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than
  silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different
  and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a
  board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
 
  TNX
  de
  KD0R
  David
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[David Pratt]

On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?

Bring back Lead/Tin solder!

We all got our water through lead pipe and brushed our teeth with 
toothpaste from lead tubes.  We got along very nicely until we had to 
find jobs for the legislative bureaucrats.  The world has gone crazy.

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Brett Howard]

HASL is the best of all worlds...  Cept for one small problem...  It
really cuts into your European sales! ;)

~Brett

On Sun, 2009-07-26 at 13:03 +0100, David Pratt wrote:
 On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
  I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
  ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
  are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?
 
 Bring back Lead/Tin solder!
 
 We all got our water through lead pipe and brushed our teeth with 
 toothpaste from lead tubes.  We got along very nicely until we had to 
 find jobs for the legislative bureaucrats.  The world has gone crazy.
 
 73

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[gdaught6]

David wrote...

 snip 

 The world has gone crazy.

Perhaps from too much lead ingestion!   8-)

73,



George T Daughters, K6GT
CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
October 3-4, 2009


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Alan Bloom]

The K3 needs the gold flash coating so that the pushbuttons work
reliably.  That's probably why it uses ENIG.

Al N1AL


On Sun, 2009-07-26 at 02:00 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?  
 
 I should explain:
 ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
 or
 IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)
 
 For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
 more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
 when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
 cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
 referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
 accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
 cost. ;)
 
 ~BTH
 
 On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  David,
  
  I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.
  
  73,
  Don W3FPR
  
  David Heinsohn wrote:
 I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
   circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
   silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
   and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
   board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
  
   TNX
   de
   KD0R
   David
 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Heinsohn wrote:
   I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
 circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
 silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
 and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
 board.  It certanly takes solder OK.

 TNX
 de
 KD0R
 David
   

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case

[Randy Moore]

I recently also completed the W1 with the W8FGU case and was at least as 
pleased as Bill.  I didn't notice any problems with the soldering, 
however.  I'm still using my non-RoHS Kester solder and simple Weller 
single temp soldering iron that I bought 10 years ago to build my K2 #337!

Anyway, the W1 and the W8FGU case are a great combo!

73,
Randy, KS4L

Bill Miner wrote:
 Hello Elecrafters,
  
 I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit.  It seems to work well 
 with good accuracy. ...
 The W8FGU case is very nice.  Fit and finish were perfect and the 
 installation instructions on his web site are very clear.  ...
 73,
 Bill - K6WLM
 K2
 KX1 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

I have not had any problems myself, but some boards suck away the heat 
from the soldering iron tip more so than others - and that is true 
whether the boards are RoHS or not.
I routinely use about 750 deg F for soldering and bump it up to 800 deg 
if the board traces are large or there is a large ground plane.
Leaded solder usually works fine with the RoHS boards too.  Just be 
certain to heat the pads adequately - watch for the point when the 
solder flows out onto the pad.  If the solder pads are not adequately 
heated there will be a poor solder connection just waiting until some 
crucial moment to fail.  Murphy strikes at the worst possible moments.

Many, boards that I repair are solved by reflowing the solder with a 
hot soldering iron.  There seems to be a tendency among some builders to 
not heat the solder pads.  Whether that stems from old experiences of 
lifting solder pads on poor boards or fear of damaging components, I 
just don't know, but when using a temperature controlled soldering iron 
and applying heat until the solder flows, those fears should be put to 
rest.  Elecraft uses thru-plated holes on the boards and components will 
stand soldering temperatures for short times (usually 6 to 10 seconds), 
so there should not be a fear of damaging components with soldering heat 
applied for 2 to 3 seconds.  On a normal size solder pad, if the solder 
does not flow in 3 seconds, the iron is not hot enough and if it flows 
in less than 2 seconds the iron is too hot.

My other 'rule' is to use a solder thin enough so you can control the 
amount of solder applied easily (.015 to .020 inch diameter) and a 
mildly activated flux so the flux does not create a mess (Kester 285 is 
my opinion of good solder and flux).

73,
Don W3FPR

Bill Miner wrote:
 Hello Elecrafters,
  
 I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit.  It seems to work well 
 with good accuracy.  
  
 For some reason I had a bit of trouble making good solder connections.  This 
 is the first RoHS board that has given me trouble.  It seemed like it took 
 extra amounts of time and heat to make good solder joints. Is there some 
 special solder flux that should be used when using normal lead solder on an 
 RoHS board?
  
 The W8FGU case is very nice.  Fit and finish were perfect and the 
 installation instructions on his web site are very clear.  I have some 
 experience working with plastics and probably could have made my own case.  
 However, considering time and the cost of materials a DIY case would probably 
 cost more and might not turn out as nice.  Many thanks to Dave for providing 
 this service. 
  
 73,
 Bill - K6WLM
 K2
 KX1 
   

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Good morning all,
I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift 
and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-)

Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part 
#'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are 
specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the 
KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also.

I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be 
the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look 
dimmer.

I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down 
the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? 
If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross 
reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of 
manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that 
what you already did Doug?

Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some 
samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get 
there though.

Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up 
such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer.

Take care  73,
Dave W8FGU

Doug Joyce wrote:
 Ken / Dave:  Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same 
 parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma 
 fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness.  The 
 problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up 
 with the same intensity as the red ones supplied.  I used other colours 
 of green, yellow and amber / orange.
  
 I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is 
 that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other 
 colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply 
 voltage of 5 volts.  This results in more fwd current that available for 
 the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be 
 brighter.  The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current 
 provided by the W1 for these other colours.
  
 I got 10 of each when I  ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you 
 provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can 
 try then in the W1 as well.
  
 73
  
 Doug,  VE3MV
  
  
  
  
 
 - Original Message -
 *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net
 *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce
 mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
 from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.
  
 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.
  
 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.
  
 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.
  
 73! Ken
 
 
 
 I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter http://www.spamfighter.com/len.
 We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I don't think anyone will mind the time spent on this.  I looked in Mouser
catalogue and was unable to find specs for higher output green, yellow and
orange LED's.  I did order the ones originally posted here and they are
installed.  So, please continue on your quest and let me know if I can help.
I would love a replacement set match the output of the red ones.
Personally, I think the W1 is cool!  Now if I could just add another row and
a remote pickup for my amp I would be sooo happy! Heck, this setup is easy
to see, lightening fast reporting even if it is redundant to all the rest of
the meters and readouts.  Just plain cool IMNSHO (In My Not So Humble
Opinion!)


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Van Wallaghen


Good morning all,
I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift 
and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-)

Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part 
#'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are 
specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the 
KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also.

I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be 
the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look 
dimmer.

I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down 
the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? 
If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross 
reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of 
manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that 
what you already did Doug?

Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some 
samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get 
there though.

Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up 
such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer.

Take care  73,
Dave W8FGU

Doug Joyce wrote:
 Ken / Dave:  Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same 
 parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma 
 fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness.  The 
 problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up 
 with the same intensity as the red ones supplied.  I used other colours 
 of green, yellow and amber / orange.
  
 I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is 
 that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other 
 colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply 
 voltage of 5 volts.  This results in more fwd current that available for 
 the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be 
 brighter.  The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current 
 provided by the W1 for these other colours.
  
 I got 10 of each when I  ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you 
 provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can 
 try then in the W1 as well.
  
 73
  
 Doug,  VE3MV
  
  
  
  
 
 - Original Message -
 *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net
 *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce
 mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
 from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.
  
 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.
  
 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.
  
 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.
  
 73! Ken
 
 
 
 I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
http://www.spamfighter.com/len.
 We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
 SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date.
 The Professional version does not have this message.

__
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Tom, N5GE]

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:

I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
brightness and take a photo.

They -should- be the same product line and therefore
light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
tuner.

Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
kits with three colors of LED's.

73! Ken


Good information, Ken.

Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
of the XV*** manuals.

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I am not sure if they match the output of the W1's red leds.  IF they do
perfect.  Can anyone test?


Bill


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:47 AM
To: Ken Kopp
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:

I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
brightness and take a photo.

They -should- be the same product line and therefore
light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
tuner.

Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
kits with three colors of LED's.

73! Ken


Good information, Ken.

Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
of the XV*** manuals.

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

Tom, N5GE wrote:
 On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.

 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.

 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.

 73! Ken
 
 
 Good information, Ken.
 
 Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
 source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
 displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
 of the XV*** manuals.
 
 73,
 
 Tom, N5GE
 
 K3 806
 XV144
 XV432
 
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Tom, N5GE]

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote:

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

[snip]

Hmm...

Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace
them too?

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Well, that is certainly a good idea and a good option. (Not to mention 
consistent with the scales on other Elecraft equipment). 

If we can't find the W1 led versions, that may well be the best option.

73,
Dave W8FGU
--Original Message--
From: Tom, N5GE
To: Dave Van Wallaghen
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Sent: Feb 20, 2009 12:47 PM

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote:

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

[snip]

Hmm...

Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace
them too?

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED's

[Bill Johnson]

Ken,  

Thank you for putting it on the list as I would not have necessarily seen
it.  I think Aptos would be supportive of what we are doing.  They may have
the power to get better prices on what we need, or may already possess the
parts to make the change.  Now how many units have sold and what is the
interest... that's another story. We could volunteer to put together a
manual update and kit.  I would be happy to assist.  I have done some manual
writing in my past life working on a software design team and there are
those of us who are interested to put together a well thought out update.  I
would consider it an honor to do so.  

We can move this off list and start our own group until we have finished the
effort.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 1:05 PM


I must confess that when I replied to Dave about changing
the W1 LED's I inadvertently sent my message to the list.
I didn't intend to do so, but it looks like there's a LOT of
interest in changing the LED colors used in the W1's SWR
display.

I had ordered a W1 and asked Scott to add the yellow and
green LED's to my order, which he did.  I was on the phone
with him while he was looking into the stock bins and he has
my thanks for the trouble he took.  Another example of the
attitude of the Aptos folks.

As Scott pointed out, there would be a good bit of behind-the
scenes work to make the SWR display in all production kits
a three-color display.  Lots of documentation to change and 
verify, etc. I'm sure the designer of the W1 could answer the
questions about the brightness of the three colors.

Perhaps, if/when there's time someone at Aptos can tell us
if such a change might be in the future.  Maybe a Mod kit 
would meet the needs of those of us who want to make the 
change, even if -all- the SWR LED's need to be changed to 
achieve equal brightness in the row.I expect the Aptos 
stockroom has all colors needed, but perhaps it's unrealistic 
to make up change kits and bill them out.  In reality, probably 
not worth the effort.  On the other hand, for those of us in the 
outback, the only alternative is a supply house with a likely 
minimum order fee that's far beyond the LED cost.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I am waiting on the same thing Dave as I installed the LED's which are
rather dim. It would be fantastic with brighter LED's.  I leave mine in line
as it provides a quick visual between the K3 and the ALS 600, esp when I
just push the tune button in the bypass tuner mode.  The K3 does the same
thing but I just love the LED's on the W1.  


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
-Original Message-


I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for 
green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same 
illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested 
in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft 
part numbers and no generic description numbers.

Thanks,
Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Doug Joyce]

Dave:  That was likely my post.   I'll provide an update when I get a few
minutes tomorrow about the part numbers and the info re the relative
brightness etc.

73, Doug  VE3MV

- Original Message - 
From: Dave Van Wallaghen w8...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers


 I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for
 green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same
 illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

 Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested
 in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft
 part numbers and no generic description numbers.

 Thanks,
 Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Thanks a lot Doug. I really appreciate it. If I can get them to match right I'm 
thinking of offering them as an option with my W1 enclosure.

Thanks again  73,
Dave W8FGU

--Original Message--
From: Doug Joyce
To: Dave Van Wallaghen
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Sent: Feb 19, 2009 8:21 PM

Dave:  That was likely my post.   I'll provide an update when I get a few
minutes tomorrow about the part numbers and the info re the relative
brightness etc.

73, Doug  VE3MV

- Original Message - 
From: Dave Van Wallaghen w8...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers


 I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for
 green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same
 illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

 Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested
 in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft
 part numbers and no generic description numbers.

 Thanks,
 Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Ken Kopp]

I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
brightness and take a photo.

They -should- be the same product line and therefore
light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
tuner.

Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
kits with three colors of LED's.

73! Ken__
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 housing?

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi Ken,

That would be me: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/enclosures.html

I also offer enclosures for the AF1, BL2 and DL1. The W1 enclosure is 
also offered in 3 different configurations depending how you want the 
BNC connectors mounted.

Let me know if I can answer any questions...

73,
Dave W8FGU

Ken Kopp wrote:
 Who makes the aftermarket clear plastic housing for the W1?
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[Bill Johnson]

Doug,

Thank you.  Please email me as I put in the ones that are too weak.  The
idea of the different colors is a nice touch, though, and while mine are
dim, I can tell fairly well instantly if the remote tuner has finished its
job.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-


With Elecraft's assistance, I've tracked down Green and Yellow LEDs from the
same series as the Red LED used in the W1 as well as an Amber / Orange from
a different manufacturer - all available from Digi-Key.  I'm planning to
order these tomorrow and will advise on relative brightness once they are
received / tested.   I'll provide part numbers at that time.

73

Doug,  VE3MV
K3 #2432

- Original Message - 


 A while back someone mentioned that they substituted different colored LED
 when they built the W1 watt meter, to make it easier to recognize the
power
 ranges.  Someone else mentioned that the substituted LED's might not be as
 bright as those supplied by Elecfraft (which are all red).

 Does anyone have any experience/observations with this?

 Thanks,
 Tom
 WB2QDG
 K2 1103


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[Doug Joyce]

With Elecraft's assistance, I've tracked down Green and Yellow LEDs from the
same series as the Red LED used in the W1 as well as an Amber / Orange from
a different manufacturer - all available from Digi-Key.  I'm planning to
order these tomorrow and will advise on relative brightness once they are
received / tested.   I'll provide part numbers at that time.

73

Doug,  VE3MV
K3 #2432

- Original Message - 
From: Tom McCulloch th...@att.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 10:07 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter


 A while back someone mentioned that they substituted different colored LED
 when they built the W1 watt meter, to make it easier to recognize the
power
 ranges.  Someone else mentioned that the substituted LED's might not be as
 bright as those supplied by Elecfraft (which are all red).

 Does anyone have any experience/observations with this?

 Thanks,
 Tom
 WB2QDG
 K2 1103

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[David Yarnes]

Maybe you could consult with Cy, The LED Guy, about identifying some 
better ones.  I think the mod has merit, but I wouldn't know what exactly 
should be substituted.  Cy shows up at most of the QRP gatherings around the 
country (he comes all the way from Maine), even Pacificon!  I suspect he 
would have some good suggestions, and of course, he could probably sell you 
what you need.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Tom McCulloch' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter



I made the mod, and it is a nice touch except for one minor problem for me,
the LED's are not as bright as the originals.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

-Original Message-
Hi Tom ...

One change I made to my W1 that helps a lot from a usability point-of-view
is to replace some of the red LEDs in the SWR indicator with different
colors.  This is because the W1 is small and has even smaller lettering on
the SWR scale.  In my installation, and probably most others, it will be
located 2 to 5 feet away from the operator and the SWR value will be
difficult to read without getting right up close to the W1.

Here's what I did:  I used green LEDs in the 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 positions.
Yellow LEDs in the 1.5 and 1.7 positions.  An amber LED in the 2.0 
position
and left the red LEDs in the higher SWR positions.  This way you can tell 
at

a glance (and at a distance) the relative goodness of your SWR situation.

Suitable replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from
Mouser, etc.  Here are the Mouser PNs:
Green 696-SSL-LX2573PGD
Yellow 696-SSL-LX2573YD
Amber 696-SSL-LX2573AD

 73
  ... Craig  AC0DS


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[Bill Johnson]

I made the mod, and it is a nice touch except for one minor problem for me,
the LED's are not as bright as the originals.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

-Original Message-
Hi Tom ...

One change I made to my W1 that helps a lot from a usability point-of-view
is to replace some of the red LEDs in the SWR indicator with different
colors.  This is because the W1 is small and has even smaller lettering on
the SWR scale.  In my installation, and probably most others, it will be
located 2 to 5 feet away from the operator and the SWR value will be
difficult to read without getting right up close to the W1.

Here's what I did:  I used green LEDs in the 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 positions.
Yellow LEDs in the 1.5 and 1.7 positions.  An amber LED in the 2.0 position
and left the red LEDs in the higher SWR positions.  This way you can tell at
a glance (and at a distance) the relative goodness of your SWR situation.

Suitable replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from
Mouser, etc.  Here are the Mouser PNs:
Green 696-SSL-LX2573PGD
Yellow 696-SSL-LX2573YD
Amber 696-SSL-LX2573AD

  73
   ... Craig  AC0DS


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[Craig D. Smith]

Hi Tom ...

One change I made to my W1 that helps a lot from a usability point-of-view
is to replace some of the red LEDs in the SWR indicator with different
colors.  This is because the W1 is small and has even smaller lettering on
the SWR scale.  In my installation, and probably most others, it will be
located 2 to 5 feet away from the operator and the SWR value will be
difficult to read without getting right up close to the W1.

Here's what I did:  I used green LEDs in the 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 positions.
Yellow LEDs in the 1.5 and 1.7 positions.  An amber LED in the 2.0 position
and left the red LEDs in the higher SWR positions.  This way you can tell at
a glance (and at a distance) the relative goodness of your SWR situation.

Suitable replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from
Mouser, etc.  Here are the Mouser PNs:
Green 696-SSL-LX2573PGD
Yellow 696-SSL-LX2573YD
Amber 696-SSL-LX2573AD

  73
   ... Craig  AC0DS




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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

[Bill Johnson]

Fabulous idea...thank you.  I will get the Hakko fired up to desolder and
replace.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig D. Smith
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:21 AM
To: 'Tom McCulloch'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 Watt Meter

Hi Tom ...

One change I made to my W1 that helps a lot from a usability point-of-view
is to replace some of the red LEDs in the SWR indicator with different
colors.  This is because the W1 is small and has even smaller lettering on
the SWR scale.  In my installation, and probably most others, it will be
located 2 to 5 feet away from the operator and the SWR value will be
difficult to read without getting right up close to the W1.

Here's what I did:  I used green LEDs in the 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3 positions.
Yellow LEDs in the 1.5 and 1.7 positions.  An amber LED in the 2.0 position
and left the red LEDs in the higher SWR positions.  This way you can tell at
a glance (and at a distance) the relative goodness of your SWR situation.

Suitable replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from
Mouser, etc.  Here are the Mouser PNs:
Green 696-SSL-LX2573PGD x's 3
Yellow 696-SSL-LX2573YD x's 2
Amber 696-SSL-LX2573AD x's 1

  73
   ... Craig  AC0DS



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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Jon Perelstein]

I'm getting ready to build my W1 SWR/Watt meter.  Before I start, are things
I should consider.  Enclosure?  Mounting BNC off-board?  External power?
COM port mounting?
 
I have mine sitting out on my desk without an enclosure.  I use it with a K1, 
with an IC-746Pro, and a buddy's K2.  Indoors, sitting on the desk seems to 
work fine.  I had it with me at Field Day and it worked fine sitting on bench 
table in a park feeding off my K1.
 
You certainly can put the W1 in an enclosure.  However, it probably needs to be 
a clear enclosure since there are display lights at the top of the board and 
also on the left edge below the middle of the board (which is also where the 
on-off switch is located, which means that you'll need access to the switch).
 
Obviously, if you put it in an enclosure, you have to worry about whether or 
not any conducting surfaces of the enclosure might touch any of the components 
(especially the BNC connectors).  The feet on the W1 will keep anything from 
touching the bottom, but it might be tricky to isolate the BNC connectors.
 
If you're going to mount the BNC's off the board, your connection between the 
BNCs and the board would have to be of a type that prevents adding loss and 
SWR.  If you're going to do something like that, you might consider mounting 
the BNCs on the board as per the instructions, and then short coax jumpers out 
of those BNCs terminating in BNC females.  You would then connect your rig and 
antenna to the external ends of the jumpers.
 
My impression from others I've talked with is that most people have some sort 
of a carrying case, but then use the W1 without an enclosure when they need to 
use it.


 


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Craig D. Smith]

I like the W1, and it works just fine here.  Do not have it in any kind of
enclosure.  It is mounted on the rear of my operating desk such that it is
at the correct angle for a good view of the display LEDs.  This is
accomplished with a couple pieces of clear packaging tape around the input
and output coax connections.  I power it from the external 12V line from my
K3 so that it powers up with the K3.

One hint that VASTLY improves the usability.  When you build it, replace the
first 6 LEDs on the row of SWR indicators with different colors.  I use
green LEDs for 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3;  yellow LEDs for 1.5 and 1.7;  and an
orange LED for 2.0.  This way you can instantly see the status of your SWR
at a distance without needing to read the very fine print on the PCB.  With
all red LEDs as supplied by Elecraft the display isn't very user-friendly.
The replacement LEDs are readily and inexpensively available from Mouser or
other vendors. 

  ... Craig AC0DS


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Re [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Paul Huff]

Hi Mark,

The W1 is a great tool and I am sure that you will find it very useful. 
Construction was very straight forward and mine worked right from the start. 
Since I use it only occasionally to test antennas, tuners, and rig output, I did 
not put it in an enclosure.  The board simply sits on it's rubber feet on the 
desk while I run my tests.  If you are planning on a more permanent setup at 
your operating position you might want to consider the custom enclosures at 
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/w1encl.html .  I don't have any personal 
experience with these boxes but they look very good.


73,
Paul - N8XMS

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RE: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Mark:
 
The mini-kits were designed for low cost and ease of use on the bench, hence
no enclosures. The W1 works just fine sitting on the little feet supplied.
 
That said, one fellow W8FGU wanted an enclosure and created a spiffy one
made of lexan for the W1 (and some other mini-module kits) that he offered
for sale. 
 
Check here. No changes to the W1 are needed other than to mount the battery
on the bottom and the BNCs on the top of the board as shown in the pictures.

 
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/pics/enclosures/W1/w1enclosure.pdf
 
It's really handy if you're going to drag the W1 around away from the bench,
throw it in a bag, etc. 
 
The W1 is a handy, useful and it accurate addition to my bench after
calibrating it simply by setting a d-c voltage as the instructions say. 
 
Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 8:50 PM
To: 'Elecraft Mail List'
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 Questions



I'm getting ready to build my W1 SWR/Watt meter.  Before I start, are things
I should consider.  Enclosure?  Mounting BNC off-board?  External power?
COM port mounting?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Mark, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
Editor, The SKCC Centurion
Elecraft K2 S/N 0539
Fists # 2972 CC 1806
SKCC # 2240 C56 T20

MQFD # 128
QRP-ARCI # 12647
AZ ScQRPions

COGRC Emergency Communications

 

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Questions

[Mike Markowski]

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 The mini-kits were designed for low cost and ease of use on the bench,
 hence no enclosures. The W1 works just fine sitting on the little feet
 supplied.

When you really want an enclosure, though, I haven't seen any that match what
Heinz HB9BCB has done.  He sent me some photos that I put at the bottom of this
page:

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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RE: [Elecraft] W1 and QRN

[Darwin, Keith]

Do you have a BNC coupler such that you could remove the W1 while still
leaving all the BNC cables in place?  Have you tried placing the W1
between the rig and a dummy load to see if the noise level comes up
compared to the dummy load alone?

- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 -

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 7:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 and QRN

I recently built the W1 Wattmeter/SWR Bridge to use in tuning my
antenna.  

I've noticed that whenever I have it in-line between my K1 and the
antenna, I hear a dramatic increase in receiver noise level.  The
S-meter on the K1 goes from 2 bars to 4 bars.  This happens whether I
have the W1 turned on or turned off, and happens on both 20 and 40
meters.

The only other thing I can say is that I have the W1 connected to the K1
by a 3' BNC to BNC cable.  The cable is coiled to sit on my desk.  I
have tried stretching out the cable, but it has not reduced the noise.
Similarly, I have tried moving the W1 to various locations on my desk
and off the desk without any noticeable improvement.

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RE: [Elecraft] W1 and QRN

[Chris Craig]

Jon,

I can't help you much other than the fact that mine does not do this.

My setup is the same as yours.

K1-- about 18 inches of cable --- W1  --- 18 inches of cable--- ant. tuner.

I replaced the W1 with a coupler and no change. Try swapping out cables or a 
coupler as previously posted. I can't see any reason the the W1 would pick up 
white noise on or off.

Note: I only checked my on 40 meters.

HTH, Chris, KE6GS /XE3

K1 - #2481
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 enclosure ideas?

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

how about the W1 case on here
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/enclosures.html

--  
Those who walk bravely through life, unafraid of loss or failure,

find that they very rarely lose or fail.



On 11 Apr 2008, at 11:27, ON4WIX wrote:

Hi all

I was just looking at the W1 watt-meter/SWR bridge specs. Since I am  
craving some solder fumes I thought it would be nice to build this  
kit, also because I have no peak reading wattmeter yet.
I would like to install this kit into a nice enclosure that I could  
put upright or slightly slanted on my desk so all LEDs are clearly  
visible. Have any of you done such a thing? Any ideas and  
suggestions would be very welcome.


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 enclosure ideas?

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi Glenn,

I currently sell and enclosure for the W1 that may be ordered in 3 different
configurations, depending on how you want to build the W1. An optional tilt
stand can also be purchased for it as well. I externalized the power switch
(included) and recommend putting the battery holder on the back of the board
for ease in changing. The power and com ports are also accessible. Here is
the link to my site: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/enclosures.html

If this interests you, please contact me directly for a shipping quote to
your QTH.

Hope this helps.

73,
Dave W8FGU

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ON4WIX
 Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 6:28 AM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] W1 enclosure ideas?
 
 Hi all
 
 I was just looking at the W1 watt-meter/SWR bridge specs. Since I am
 craving
 some solder fumes I thought it would be nice to build this kit, also
 because
 I have no peak reading wattmeter yet.
 I would like to install this kit into a nice enclosure that I could put
 upright or slightly slanted on my desk so all LEDs are clearly visible.
 Have
 any of you done such a thing? Any ideas and suggestions would be very
 welcome.
 
 Have a nice weekend!
 
 73 de Glenn ON4WIX
 
 K2/100 #5361
 K3/100 #0192
 Two left hands ;-)
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 as field strength meter?

[Larry]

I had the WM1 and don't think thats possible.
It is possible with the LP-100 digital vector rf wattmeter by N8LP.
http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html

I'm very pleased with LP-100.

73
Larry
WA2DGD



Kurt Loken wrote:

Hello All,

Is is possible to use the W1 Computing Wattmeter as a
field strength meter?  Anyone done this?

Regards,

Kurt - ae6uj


   

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Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Wattmeter/SWR Bridge + KX1

[Dan KB6NU]

Cool. I'm getting close to finishing my W1 and putting it in a W8FGU  
enclosure. How do the KX1 power readings compare to the W1 readings?


73!

Dan KB6NU
--
CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator
Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com
LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO!



On May 15, 2007, at 3:08 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

I finished the W1 computing wattmeter, and put it in W8FGU's nifty  
polycarbonate enclosure.  It was an easy build, some tidbits and  
links can be found at www.foothill.net/~andreaj/Ham45.htm


While fooling with the KX1 and BuddiPole on the deck on a balmy  
evening, I discovered that if I remove the tilt stand on Dave's  
enclosure [easy, it's fastened with velcro], a double male BNC will  
couple the wattmeter to the KX1 and the combination lays flat on  
the table.  I can tune the BP with the W1, making it unnecessary to  
carry the antenna analyzer along on field expeditions.  All in all,  
a nifty little arrangement.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
- www.cqp.org

PS:  Enough BNC adapters and I could probably do something similar  
with my K2 :-)

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RE: [Elecraft] W1

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi all,

I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here:
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html

As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any
necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled
on a price yet, but should be forthcoming. 

Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary.

Thanks  73,
Dave W8FGU 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
 Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 4:50 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1
 
 I'd buy a W1 immediately if it had some sort of housing.
 Perhaps the intent of the design was a piece of use-it-once-
 in-awhile and not a day-to-day usage item.
 
 I bought an Oak Hills Research WM-2 instead, and I'm
 totally satisfied with it.
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Larry Phipps]

Very slick, Dave. Sign me up when you have it ready. BTW, if you are in 
the market for a digital wattmeter kit between the W1 and LP-100, I have 
a new meter kit in prototype called the LP-400. It's styled to match 
Elecraft equipment, and has excellent accuracy and some of the LP-100 
features. I will also be offering free NIST traceable calibration to kit 
builders as I do with the LP-100. You can check it out on my website.


73,
Larry N8LP
www.telepostinc.com




Dave Van Wallaghen wrote:

Hi all,

I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here:
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html

As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any
necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled
on a price yet, but should be forthcoming. 


Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary.

Thanks  73,
Dave W8FGU 

  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 4:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1

I'd buy a W1 immediately if it had some sort of housing.
Perhaps the intent of the design was a piece of use-it-once-
in-awhile and not a day-to-day usage item.

I bought an Oak Hills Research WM-2 instead, and I'm
totally satisfied with it.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 - customised enclosure

[Siu Johnny]

Hi Dave,

I am interested in it, please keep me advised of the price and availability 
in due course.


73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


From: Dave Van Wallaghen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 11:47:42 -0400

Hi all,

I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here:
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html

As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any
necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled
on a price yet, but should be forthcoming.

Feel free to send me any appropriate feedback you feel necessary.

Thanks  73,
Dave W8FGU

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RE: [Elecraft] W1

[Craig D. Smith]

The W1 is a great kit and a good addition to your shack, Scott.

It is a quick and easy build.  As far as I can determine, the accuracy is
quite good.  The computer interface does work, but the currently available
software doesn't really provide much more information than the LED displays.
But the I/F specs are published so that you can write different software if
you want.  After verifying that the computer I/F does work, I really haven't
used it.  The meter has some neat features such as automatic power range
switching, peak or average readings, etc., and covers useful power ranges
from QRP up to over 100 W.  I have mine hooked up in the shack all the time
and set to peak reading.  Gives a good quick visual indication that the
proper amount of power is going out and the reflected power is reasonable.
I use a remote tuner at the antenna, so this is good feedback.

As others have mentioned, the physical package isn't optimum.  With the I/O
BNC connectors located near the top it tends to be top heavy and hard to sit
up so that the scales are visible.  I would much prefer a two board approach
with a multi-conductor cable feeding the display board.  That way it would
be easy to make a nice case for it with reasonable dimensions and the heavy
stuff  cables at the bottom.

Even with the less-than-perfect package, it is well worth the $$.  I can
recommend it.

73
... Craig   AC0DS


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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Ken Kopp]

I'd buy a W1 immediately if it had some sort of housing.
Perhaps the intent of the design was a piece of use-it-once-
in-awhile and not a day-to-day usage item.

I bought an Oak Hills Research WM-2 instead, and I'm
totally satisfied with it.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP\
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 dimensions and switch

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The depth of the board depends upon the build options you use, Mike.

If you build it as shown in the manual, with the battery case and BNC jacks
on top, it's about 0.9 from the bottom of the board to the top of the
battery case (the battery sits down below the top of the case so it doesn't
add height). 

If you leave the battery case off, the height to the tops of the BNC jacks
is 0.95 including the heavy pins that extend through the pcb slightly. If
you cut the heavy pins on the jacks flush with the bottom of the board, the
height drops to about .75 Those pins are heavy and the instructions don't
suggest trimming them off. They aren't tall enough to pose an issue with the
feet mounted. 

If you mount the BNC jacks on the bottom of the board and leave the battery
holder off, you'll have to allow for the BNC connector height on the bottom
side and the height of C9 and C12 on the top side. C9 and C12 now become the
tallest parts on the top side at 0.6 (the data and power connectors are
slightly lower). 

If you put the battery holder on the bottom, you'll need to allow for its
height plus whether you mount the jacks on the top or only have to clear C9
and C1. If the battery holder is on the top, you'll need to allow 0.25 for
the mounting hardware on the bottom side of the board. 

Of course I'm assuming you don't use the feet. They are high enough to just
make the battery holder screws clear the desk top.  

For reference, the PCB dimensions on mine are 5.42 x 2.7 

Those are typical dimensions taken from my assembled unit. Sizes of the PCB
may vary a bit by production run. The heights of the components may vary
slightly based on the components themselves and how close to the PCB you
mount them.

Ron AC7AC

 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 8:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 dimensions and switch


I am thinking about building a W1 into an enclosure, with the jacks and
switch mounted on the enclosure with wire connections to the board.

It looks like the switch is a simple DPDT switch, and anything would do,
yes?

Also, there is no specification for the approximate depth of the populated
board. Does any know that that is?

Thanks
Mike N2HTT


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RE: [Elecraft] W1 stand

[Bill Johnson]

I am interested... I have some other projects that plastic would be great to 
use, esp. to see leds.

Bill

K9YEQ
K2 #35; K2/100 #5279 (Under construction), KX1 #35

Fish Creek, WI 54212

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Van 
Wallaghen
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 12:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Siu Johnny'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 stand

Hi all,

I made a custom enclosure for my W1 and AF1 out of Lexan that I picked up at 
Home Depot. I purchased some IPS Weld-On 3 and some soft plastic glue backed 
feet from TAP Plastics www.tapplastics.com . The Weld-On 3 is a solvent that 
when applied to clean joints of acrylic, plastic and in my case Lexan, welds 
the joint together. This was my first time in dealing with acrylic plastic 
construction and I found a couple of instructional videos on the Tap website 
that explained how to construct and weld projects together.

I ordered the straight through BNC connectors for my W1 and mounted them and 
the battery holder on the back of the board. I also obtained a round pushbutton 
switch from an old computer and mounted it to the side of the battery case, 
flush with the side of my box and wired it to the power pads on the PCB. 

I designed the box so that it was split in half in that the top and bottom of 
the box had an opposing side panel welded to it with the ends welded to the top 
(in an L fashion). The PCB is mounted to the top with standoffs. I then used 4 
2-D fasteners and 4-40 screws from Elecraft to secure the halves to each other 
(maintaining the fine Elecraft tradition). If I had drilled the holes correctly 
for the 2-D fasteners, I would have to only remove 4 screws in order to gain 
access or replace the battery; instead I have to remove 6 screws ;-)

I did the AF1 first as a first test of my skills. I made many mistakes in 
constructing the first version but learned enough to build an entire second 
enclosure. It is not perfect (the PCB is slightly offset in the enclosure), but 
it is sufficient for my needs at the moment and does not slide around on the 
desk.

The W1 was a little more challenging in that the measurement tolerances for 
fitting the PCB inside the enclosure left very little room for error. But, I 
managed to get it put together the first shot with only a few small cosmetic 
things I would change. I did construct a small tilt stand out of Lexan for the 
W1. It has about 15 degrees of tilt. I mounted the soft plastic feet to the 
stand and to the W1 so that when it is cradled in the stand it is very tough to 
move. Not sure how it would work out in the field, but seems pretty sturdy on 
my desk.

I cut all of the Lexan on my table saw or a small band saw. I also drilled all 
of the holes with my drill press. There are special saw blades and drill bits 
for doing this kind of work but are somewhat expensive. I was able to get a 
pretty smooth edge using a higher density toothed saw blade (plywood blade) 
although there is a warning of melting the edges with some blades. It is 
imperative that the edges to be welded are smooth and free of gaps. Same 
caveats apply to drill bits as well. There is also a way of getting 
professional looking final edges by using a map gas torch along the edge in 
question. I have yet to try that. For my purposes, they look ok.

I have pictures that I can post. I'm trying to get a personal web site up in 
the next couple of days. I will post the address here and get some more 
detailed pictures of the enclosures if anyone is interested.

Have fun  73,

Dave W8FGU

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Siu Johnny
 Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 10:33 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand
 
 Hi Group,
 
 As I mentioned in this mail reflector, W1 is a piece of good handy tool
 and
 most likely to be used under outdoor portable condition.  A customised
 enclosure is a need.  If any of you have any idea about such an enclosure,
 please post it in this reflector so that we can share your brilliant ideas
 
 TNX  73
 
 Johnny Siu VR2XMC
 
 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand
 Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 9:03:02 -0600
 
 Tom,
 That is an interesting idea.
 I just ordered a W1 myself. after I get it working as designed, I am
 thinking of mounting the RF connectors and sense transformer in a Pomona
 or
 Hammond enclosure, and bringing the sigs to the board via iso bnc
 connectors. Looking at the schematic, I will probably tap at the R1/C1 and
 R2/C2 connection, leaving R1 and R2 with the transformer side.
 There is ample room to play.
 -Pete
 wd4lst
 
 _
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand

[wd4lst]

Tom,
That is an interesting idea. 
I just ordered a W1 myself. after I get it working as designed, I am thinking 
of mounting the RF connectors and sense transformer in a Pomona or Hammond 
enclosure, and bringing the sigs to the board via iso bnc connectors. Looking 
at the schematic, I will probably tap at the R1/C1 and R2/C2 connection, 
leaving R1 and R2 with the transformer side.
There is ample room to play.
-Pete
wd4lst
 
 From: Tom Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/03/06 Tue AM 08:03:07 CST
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] W1 stand
 
 I own most of the Elecraft Mini Kits and up until now I haven't found any
 need to put them in an enclosure. However, since I've built the W1 Power
 Meter - that has changed. The W1 is just too awkward to use as it is. Every
 time I used it I would look for a convenient place to lean it. Even then, it
 would somehow end up landing on one scary place or another. 
 In my apartment there is a metal picture stand that is vertical and slanted
 back a little for easy viewing. Hmm, it was a little too big for the W1
 since it was designed for a size 8 X 5 print. I went to Staples and found
 what they call a slanted sign holder 3.5 X 5 (Model 69401SUS (I couldn't
 find this number in their on-line store)). On the store receipt it said the
 SKU was 079916015552). Anyway it's made of clear Plexiglas and although a
 little too wide, makes for a fairly decent stand for the W1. If you mount
 the W1 so that the battery case bottoms out it will make the stand a little
 sturdier. Actually, I mounted mine a little too high and used rubber feet
 mounted on the bottom of the battery case. I used threaded plastic
 stand-offs at the top and another next to the left bnc connector since the
 bottom hole is too close to the angle of the stand. You might want to add
 extra weight to the base.
 Although this is not a perfect solution, it works for me.
 
 Tom, AK2B
 
 Oh, and as usual, the W1 is of excellent quality, simple to build and
 accurate. Par for Elecraft!
 
 
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Pete Axson
WD4LST
17901 NE 18th Ave
Citra, FL 32113

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand

[Siu Johnny]

Hi Group,

As I mentioned in this mail reflector, W1 is a piece of good handy tool and 
most likely to be used under outdoor portable condition.  A customised 
enclosure is a need.  If any of you have any idea about such an enclosure, 
please post it in this reflector so that we can share your brilliant ideas


TNX  73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 9:03:02 -0600

Tom,
That is an interesting idea.
I just ordered a W1 myself. after I get it working as designed, I am 
thinking of mounting the RF connectors and sense transformer in a Pomona or 
Hammond enclosure, and bringing the sigs to the board via iso bnc 
connectors. Looking at the schematic, I will probably tap at the R1/C1 and 
R2/C2 connection, leaving R1 and R2 with the transformer side.

There is ample room to play.
-Pete
wd4lst

_
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RE: [Elecraft] W1 stand

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi all,

I made a custom enclosure for my W1 and AF1 out of Lexan that I picked up at 
Home Depot. I purchased some IPS Weld-On 3 and some soft plastic glue backed 
feet from TAP Plastics www.tapplastics.com . The Weld-On 3 is a solvent that 
when applied to clean joints of acrylic, plastic and in my case Lexan, welds 
the joint together. This was my first time in dealing with acrylic plastic 
construction and I found a couple of instructional videos on the Tap website 
that explained how to construct and weld projects together.

I ordered the straight through BNC connectors for my W1 and mounted them and 
the battery holder on the back of the board. I also obtained a round pushbutton 
switch from an old computer and mounted it to the side of the battery case, 
flush with the side of my box and wired it to the power pads on the PCB. 

I designed the box so that it was split in half in that the top and bottom of 
the box had an opposing side panel welded to it with the ends welded to the top 
(in an L fashion). The PCB is mounted to the top with standoffs. I then used 4 
2-D fasteners and 4-40 screws from Elecraft to secure the halves to each other 
(maintaining the fine Elecraft tradition). If I had drilled the holes correctly 
for the 2-D fasteners, I would have to only remove 4 screws in order to gain 
access or replace the battery; instead I have to remove 6 screws ;-)

I did the AF1 first as a first test of my skills. I made many mistakes in 
constructing the first version but learned enough to build an entire second 
enclosure. It is not perfect (the PCB is slightly offset in the enclosure), but 
it is sufficient for my needs at the moment and does not slide around on the 
desk.

The W1 was a little more challenging in that the measurement tolerances for 
fitting the PCB inside the enclosure left very little room for error. But, I 
managed to get it put together the first shot with only a few small cosmetic 
things I would change. I did construct a small tilt stand out of Lexan for the 
W1. It has about 15 degrees of tilt. I mounted the soft plastic feet to the 
stand and to the W1 so that when it is cradled in the stand it is very tough to 
move. Not sure how it would work out in the field, but seems pretty sturdy on 
my desk.

I cut all of the Lexan on my table saw or a small band saw. I also drilled all 
of the holes with my drill press. There are special saw blades and drill bits 
for doing this kind of work but are somewhat expensive. I was able to get a 
pretty smooth edge using a higher density toothed saw blade (plywood blade) 
although there is a warning of melting the edges with some blades. It is 
imperative that the edges to be welded are smooth and free of gaps. Same 
caveats apply to drill bits as well. There is also a way of getting 
professional looking final edges by using a map gas torch along the edge in 
question. I have yet to try that. For my purposes, they look ok.

I have pictures that I can post. I'm trying to get a personal web site up in 
the next couple of days. I will post the address here and get some more 
detailed pictures of the enclosures if anyone is interested.

Have fun  73,

Dave W8FGU

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Siu Johnny
 Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 10:33 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand
 
 Hi Group,
 
 As I mentioned in this mail reflector, W1 is a piece of good handy tool
 and
 most likely to be used under outdoor portable condition.  A customised
 enclosure is a need.  If any of you have any idea about such an enclosure,
 please post it in this reflector so that we can share your brilliant ideas
 
 TNX  73
 
 Johnny Siu VR2XMC
 
 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 stand
 Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 9:03:02 -0600
 
 Tom,
 That is an interesting idea.
 I just ordered a W1 myself. after I get it working as designed, I am
 thinking of mounting the RF connectors and sense transformer in a Pomona
 or
 Hammond enclosure, and bringing the sigs to the board via iso bnc
 connectors. Looking at the schematic, I will probably tap at the R1/C1 and
 R2/C2 connection, leaving R1 and R2 with the transformer side.
 There is ample room to play.
 -Pete
 wd4lst
 
 _
 Hotmail Extra Storage讓你獲得10MB 額外儲存空間，請即申請！
 http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=zh-hk
 
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You must

RE: [Elecraft] W1 Software Functions?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Did you download the Windows software? If so the default display shows that
you can monitor both the forward power and SWR as moving bars and with
numerical readouts in their own windows. 

That's the default. Then you can start pulling up other data. 

Clicking REVERSE will change the SWR bar and  data window to show reverse
power rather than SWR. 

In the SETTINGS drop-down window you can chose between having the windows
display and the LEDs on the W1 display average power or peak power, and you
can select Peak-Hold LED ON which does just that: the LED on the W1
representing the highest power reached will stay on.

For operating convenience you can adjust the behavior of the range and power
LEDs on the W1 to have them decay more quickly or slowly when RF drops or,
if you're not interested in the W1 LEDs because you are using your computer,
you can turn them off.

If you want your settings to be remembered next time you use the W1, don't
forget to click on SAVE in the SETTINGS drop down! 

Ron AC7AC  



-Original Message-

Can anyone tell me what the W1 software will display other than SWR? Will it
show peak power or anything else? I downloaded the software a few weeks ago
and the and I could only see the SWR function.

73
Zack
N8FNR

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RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea

[Siu Johnny]

Hi Pete,

K2 is a QRP rig and can deliver output power at around 0.5 watt.  Itself 
has already been a nice RF signal generator.  Turn your K2 power knot fully 
counterclockwise.  Press and hold 'tune' and read the SWR on the W1 over 
the tuning range.  Due to the lower power output from K2, interference to 
other Ham stations is minimal.


Unlike the LP100, W1 is not a vector watt meter.  It can only give you 
reading of SWR and Power.


In the past, I have several times in this reflector mentioned that a 
transcevier with TCXO or stable frequency output has already been a very 
good RF source. The trick is to use a good RF attenuator or directional 
coupler to lower the output level.  Now AT1, CP1 could be choices.


I finish the construction of AT1 which is a piece of cake.  Unlike the 
usual attenuator obtained from the market, AT1 can tolerate 2 watts RF 
power.  If you combine K2 with AT1, the whole will be a nice RF signal 
source.  Of course, don't forget to turn the RF power knot fully 
counterclockwise.




73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 idea
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 11:33:50 -0600

It would seem like you could combine the W1 with a small DDS based sig gen 
for a very compact basic antenna analyzer. Is it sensitive enough on the 
lowest scale to do that?

Just thinkin
-Pete

Pete Axson
WD4LST
17901 NE 18th Ave
Citra, FL 32113

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Re: RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea

[wd4lst]

Good evening and thanks for the reply. I have already built the AT1, so the K1 
would work (My K2 is under construction at the present). I have an old MFJ259 
(no vector info, just SWR and impedance), but had in mind a small unit for very 
coarse antenna checks in the field, camping, etc. The mfj unit is bigger than 
the K1. I have been playing with AmQRP's PICeL kits and had DDS on the brain. 
Itching to build something that uses one (Iknow,Iknow, a KX1 gr)
-Pete
 
 From: Siu Johnny [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/12/12 Tue PM 06:59:26 CST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],  Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1 idea
 
 
 Hi Pete,
 
 K2 is a QRP rig and can deliver output power at around 0.5 watt.  Itself 
 has already been a nice RF signal generator.  Turn your K2 power knot fully 
 counterclockwise.  Press and hold 'tune' and read the SWR on the W1 over 
 the tuning range.  Due to the lower power output from K2, interference to 
 other Ham stations is minimal.
 
 Unlike the LP100, W1 is not a vector watt meter.  It can only give you 
 reading of SWR and Power.
 
 In the past, I have several times in this reflector mentioned that a 
 transcevier with TCXO or stable frequency output has already been a very 
 good RF source. The trick is to use a good RF attenuator or directional 
 coupler to lower the output level.  Now AT1, CP1 could be choices.
 
 I finish the construction of AT1 which is a piece of cake.  Unlike the 
 usual attenuator obtained from the market, AT1 can tolerate 2 watts RF 
 power.  If you combine K2 with AT1, the whole will be a nice RF signal 
 source.  Of course, don't forget to turn the RF power knot fully 
 counterclockwise.
 
 
 
 73
 
 Johnny Siu VR2XMC
 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] W1 idea
 Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 11:33:50 -0600
 
 It would seem like you could combine the W1 with a small DDS based sig gen 
 for a very compact basic antenna analyzer. Is it sensitive enough on the 
 lowest scale to do that?
 Just thinkin
 -Pete
 
 Pete Axson
 WD4LST
 17901 NE 18th Ave
 Citra, FL 32113
 
 _
 ??  Live Messenger; 
 http://get.live.com/messenger/overview 
 
 

Pete Axson
WD4LST
17901 NE 18th Ave
Citra, FL 32113

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Case

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

I'm looking at using this with the Small Wonder Labs 20m PSK transceiver and 
Elecraft T1 (?) ATU (which I have already), thinking about a live demo for 
the 2007 RSGB HF Convention. A simple and effective portable station coupled 
with a nice 12.1 Toshiba laptop.


Without a case the W1 would get wet and / or damaged, it will certainly not 
be spaniel-proof.


My ideal case would be metallic - die-cast box, leds on the top as the toys 
will probably by lying on the ground (or in the snow).


Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: Siu Johnny [EMAIL PROTECTED]





Hi Simon,

Good to have you join this vote.  I have just finished the construction of 
W1 and shall use it for portable use.  I do need a case because W1 will be 
used in the field.  My LP100 is to be used in shack.


Since W1 now does not have a case, when my fingers accidentally touch the 
area around Q1, Q2, U2, the LEDs light up.  It is a regret not having a 
case for this wonderful and well designed little kit.




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RE: [Elecraft] w1 and 160 module

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

George,

Sorry, but no - the entire K160RX will not work, and that means no RF output
on 160 meters even if the K2 says it is operating on 160 meters.

If you do not wish to use the RX jack, just leave the BNC connector off -
but then, it is not hard to put it on, so why not just do the complete job?
The RX ant will not be active until you turn it on in the K2 menu.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 If I  didnt want to use the 160 rx connector, could you leave w1 in
 place with no ill effect?

 George NE2I

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