[MBZ] Drain exits

[B Dike]

Where are the sunroom drain exits for the 85 300CD?
  
  Many thanks,
   
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - UK metric?
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On Thu, 2 Feb 2006 19:10:33 -0500 "wilton strickland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Has UK gone metric?

Uh ... yes ... many years ago.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] Do these work?

[B Dike]

Thanks Loren.  I'll probably give it a try.
   
  Bruce

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  He doesn't specify the thread size, but it looks like it will work. I 
think I spent that much in 1972 dollars to get an adapter made for a normal 
slide hammer puller. Mine screws onto the 5/8 UNC thread of a commercial 
slide hammer that I borrowed. Later I made my own slide hammer from a 
piece of 5/8 rod and a wrist pin from a JD 2 cyl that weighs about 4 
lb. I can't remember the thread diameter, but i remember the pitch is 1mm. 
on the id of the prechamber.

The thread pitch on the ring is 2mm FWIW.

To remove the ring, you might be able to do it with a ground socket. I 
think Dave M just sold a set of the ring tool and slide hammer for a very 
reasonable price. Before I had the tool, I removed the rings with a small 
chisel and a small hammer. The ring tool makes the job very easy. For 
years the prechamber puller and the ring tool were the ONLY MB special 
tools I ever had. Last year I bought the special socket for the IP 
delivery valves.

Good Luck

Loren

At 11:32 PM 2/1/2006, you wrote:
> 
>http://cgi.ebay.com/Mercedes-Hammer-Tool-for-Removal-prechamber-cyl-Head_W0QQitemZ7537784873QQcategoryZ42337QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> The new 220D is safely stowed in the garage and ready to give up 
> it prechambers. I am thinking of grinding down a socket to fit 
> the slotted ring. Will the aforementioned slide hammer be able to yank 
> it out?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
>Bruce
>82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
>85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
>75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
>77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>73 220D 'It'
>
>-
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Calipers Torn Boot
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the rebuild kit should have the boots, so yes, you do replace those.

Bob Rentfro wrote:

> I got the rebulid kits from Rusty yeasterday. I started to do the job and 
> I've noticed that the rubber boots around the pistons has 
> torn/ripped/disinagrated. It does't look like I can replace these, can I? I 
> reckon they are vital to keep dirt away from the piston.
> What's my next step?
> 
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 148K
> '01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
> Litchfield Park, AZ
> ___
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] speaking of LT don and his recent post...

[B Dike]

I bought the 82 300CD at a neighborhood yard sale  and started looking for 
ideas when the Seattle M-B dealer quoted me  $9400 for some engine work. Found 
mbz.org and bought a good motor from  a fellow lister for $100, successfully 
installed it with a stream of  online assistance.  We're still at it, only one 
rule:  Car  must be running and licensed in short order.
  
  True story:  One Sunday the minister at our church brought all the  children 
up to the front of the entire congregation, and inquired if  anyone knew of a 
hobby that could turn into an obsession.  Our six  year old immediately chirped 
out "Like fixing old cars??"   The  church went totally silent and I could feel 
all the eyes turning my way  while I stared straight ahead...
  
  Bruce
  
"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Would be interesting to find 
out how people came to be on this list(or 
the previous mbz.org)

I will start, I was lead to the RE and MBCA list by Diann Quinn from 
Chicago(wisonsin maybe), signed up.  Was on the MBCA list till it was 
canned by the high and mighty at the home office.  Later kicked off the 
RE list and was a founding charter memember of mbz.org in 98(or was it 
99?)  Anyway, thats my story.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] acetone again
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No mention whatsoever of driving pattern, but  would it really matter if that 
were merely a placebo?  Better  mileage is better mileage!

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  B Dike wrote:
> An acquaintance told me he tried it and it worked as claimed.

Did he change his driving habits at all?  I've seen 10-15% changes in
mileage in some cars just from driving slower.  If someone is testing a
new fuel economy additive it's likely they'll drive more carefully for a
while.

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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 Wit

Re: [MBZ] More cool specials

[B Dike]

Rusty,
  
  Although I am quite content paying you a few extra $ for the peace of  mind 
of a Mann oil filter, if 'Full' makes an air filter for the  CA-equipped 85 
300CD, I am a ready buyer  The OEM air filters are  almost $50 now, aren't they?

  Bruce
  
Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Let's just say that I have put them 
in all of my fleet, so time will
tell. Obviously, Full has the same warranty as all other filter
manufacturers. I have only been selling Mercedes parts and maintaining
my MB's for 31 years, so when I say they look very good, I understand
that my knowledge of the inside of an oil filter is somewhat limited. I
just wanted to offer these up as a real value, not get into another
filter argument. Some people might want them, some might not. I am going
to use them since I change my oil every 3,000 miles. Full is also
getting into the air filter market and I plan on using them as well. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hendrik Riessen
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More cool specials

Question is, are you willing to risk your reputation with these cheap 
filters. Just because they look similar does not mean that the quality
is 
the same. Personally I pay a little extra to get genuine filters.
Also are you willing to guarantee these filters?

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" 
To: ; "'Banned List'" ; 

Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:34 AM
Subject: [MBZ] More cool specials


> We have found a really nice looking oil filter made in Thailand for
the
> OM616, OM617 & M110, M116, M117 engines. The brand name is Full. Tom
and
> I have cut them open and they look identical to the Mann, Hengst &
> Knecht filters that we have cut open before. The prices are simply
> amazing. Here are the prices:
>
> Diesel Oil Filter
> 1 to 9 $4.95
> 10 to 19 $4.25
> 20 or more $3.95
>
> M110 & V-8 Oil Filter
> 1 to 9 $3.00
> 10 to 19 $2.65
> 20 or more $2.45
>
> Rusty Cullens
> BuyMBparts, Inc.
> 1-800-741-5252
> http://www.BuyMBparts.com 
>
>
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Re: [MBZ] acetone again

[B Dike]

An acquaintance told me he tried it and it worked as claimed.
  
  Bruce

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Howdy -
If this story were true wouldn;t the gas/fuel companies put a bit of Acetone 
in for us?  Something that would bump mileage by 10% or so would seem to be 
a pretty good advertising story - they could do it and we would never know 
unless they told us.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)

A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" 
To: "Mercedes list" 
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: [MBZ] acetone again


> http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/2598
>
> need another thread about using this?  I have a few gallons to burn
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
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> 



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

-
 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sound panels, was Nice 190D Low Miles
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Werner, can you do me a favor and take a picture of the main (engine)
panel the next time you remove it for an oil change? The 300D 2.5
panel is almost $100 *cheaper* than the same part for the 1987 300D,
and I'm dying to see what the exact difference is between the two
parts.

-Aaron

[MBZ] Do these work?

[B Dike]

 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mercedes-Hammer-Tool-for-Removal-prechamber-cyl-Head_W0QQitemZ7537784873QQcategoryZ42337QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  
  The new 220D is safely stowed in the garage and ready to give up it  
prechambers.  I am thinking of grinding down a socket to fit the  slotted ring. 
 Will the aforementioned slide hammer be able to  yank it out?
  
  Thanks,
  
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
73 220D 'It'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sound panels, was Nice 190D Low Miles
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Thanks, Aaron -  I suspected that was for a different "124".  My '90 with 
the 2.5 engine has a similar front panel, which has to be removed to get the 
rear (trans) panel off.  But that panel is larger and more rectangular, and 
I seem to recall it has 6 screws holding it up.  I'm pretty sure that there 
aren't any "side" panels.

On my car (with 221k miles), both panels have oil-soaked foam but that 
doesn't seem to be a problem unless you get obsessed with such things.  And 
the front one only comes off for oil changes (I'm too cheap to do the 
top-sider thing, as the dealerships now do) as I like to check around, 
especially oil cooler lines, etc.  The rear large panel only comes off every 
couple of years or so for the 30k transmission service.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "Aaron Lam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sound panels, was Nice 190D Low Miles


> These panels are the newest versions available for a 1987 300D. I
> assumed your car would have the same ones, but the EPC indicates that
> the engine, transmission, and one side panel are different for the
> 300D 2.5 and also for the E300D. The side ones are usually intact, but
> the foam disintegrates and falls apart after a while.
>
> -Aaron

Re: [MBZ] Diesel aircraft engines

[B Dike]

Back in the early days of WWII a diesel-powered Messerschmidt 109 was captured 
by the Allies, and the propulsion assembly was exhibited at engineering schools 
around the U.S.

Richard Murdoch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  There were some early attempts to 
use diesels on early aircraft. I think
they were too heavy. IIRC Packard manufactued one.
Richard Murdoch
- Original Message -
From: "Craig McCluskey" 
To: "mercedes" 
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 11:48 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Diesel aircraft engines


> http://www.deltahawkengines.com/
>
>
> Craig
>
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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number: 6031997172
Red on red with white roof, some damage.

Hendrik
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Hendrik asked the tough question:

"Question is, are you willing to risk your reputation with these cheap
 filters. Just beca

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[B Dike]

Luther,
   
  My cars will exhibit precisely those symptoms when I get a bad batch of bio, 
or if temps go below cloud point.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Bruce

Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  My SD has it's moments of fuel pressure loss. You can be crusing down the 
interstate and suddenly feel a power loss that lasts less than 1/2 
second...something exactly like taking your foot off and back on the throttle. 
Also, at cold start it's very rough and needs to have enough throttle to keep 
at least 800-900 RPM to run somewhat smooth and not die. Glow plugs are barely 
2 years old and the injector pump and injectors were replaced by the P/O (maybe 
50kmi ago). I've replaced all the rubber fuel line from tank to primer in the 
last 8 months.
I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a lift 
pump that's weak. I read 07.1-145 "Checking fuel pump and bypass valve" and it 
seems that the bypass valve can get clogged and needs to be cleaned and the 
spring lengthened to increase tension. Is there anyone else that has had an 
issue similar to this where cleaning the bypass valve fixed the issue or did 
they have to replace the fuel pump?

(btw fuel, primer, & lift...they all mean the same thing in the big diesel 
world)

TIA all,


-- 
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 02:55 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:

>  I've never had a quality issue with their fuel.

There's a first time for everything.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

[MBZ] Radio Fuse?

[B Dike]

Benzers,
  
  The Becker radio on the 82 300CD went dead.  Antenna also doesn't  move.  
Replaced fuses in main box, radio still dead.  Found a  little fuse or resistor 
in the radio power supply line, measures at  about 1/2 to 1 ohm.  What is it, 
and what should its resistance  be?  What else should be checked?
  
  Thanks,
  
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/129117173.html  --  300GD  $31k
> 
> Rodbender?

It's a non-turbo engine. Very reliable engine.

Marshall

-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

[MBZ] We Are Not Alone

[B Dike]

News article actually speaks well of diesels...the new MB technology 
specifically...
  
  http://news.yahoo.com/s/bw/20060127/bs_bw/bw20060127509630 
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wiper blades
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Here in Seattle the standard Bosch Microedge works splendidly. Forget the ANCO.

Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  A few days ago, there was a 
discussion about wiper blades.

Today, I went looking for replacements. I found:


   Anco Universal Refill $ 4.99

   Bosch Microedge (complete assembly)   $ 7.99

   Bosch Microedge Excel (comp. assy.)  $ 12.99


Any comments on which one would be the best value?


Thanks,


Craig

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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Re: [MBZ] Years of production of the 300CD turbo and non-turbo!?

[B Dike]

My 82 300CD is a turbo and has VIN X00013 so they probably started 
production that year.
   
  Bruce

Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  "kayoooh @ gmail" wrote:
> 
> Hello List,
> 
> Can someone tell me which years the 300CD was sold with the 5 cylinder
> non-turbo motor and which with the 5 cylinder Turbo motor.

Turbo starting 1982, ending 1985. Can't remember when the 123 coupe
first came out, but through 1981 the diesel was NA.

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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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On Friday, January 27, 2006, at 04:47 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

> It's too big for 24x7 use, yet too small to actually run the electric
> furnace too.  And I still would prefer diesel.  In a perfect world I'd
> have a small diesel thumper that would handle the base load, and a
> big one that would kick on when it sensed a big 240V load.  Obviously
> there would be some wiring challenges to go with this.
>
> -- Jim
>

We lose power from time to time, usually due to ice storms and almost 
never in the warmer months. We have 2 wood stoves, one of which heats 
24/7. We also cook on it and in it.
If/when power goes out, we have heat and a place to cook.There is a 
balcony just outside our kitchen and dining room, we put perishables in 
coolers out there. I live a stone's throw away from a pristine clean 
(certified drinking water) 32 mile long lake. Water can be had from 
there, many other local lakes  or several springs in the area 
year-round.
Why does your furnace require so much power? Is it an antique or 
something special? All electric, no fuel? We have a 1 1/2 year old oil 
fired hot water unit that I installed to replace the junk Utica Boiler 
that was installed in 86-87, when the house was built. Neither pulled 
much power at all. The new one used 42% less fuel, in its first year of 
operation and has a higher output by about 6,000 BTUs.
If you're on electric heat only, I feel for you, as I know some folks 
around here that spend way too much to heat their homes. Some in the 
$700-$900/month range. Our boiler, installed was less than $2,000 and 
it is a very high quality cast iron unit built by Burnham. Of course I 
got a discount through a plumber/HVAC buddy and did the lion's share of 
the work myself.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Got Tumbler but no Key

[B Dike]

Got a VIN key from Rusty just a few weeks ago
  
  Bruce

Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I believe Rusty can get generic ign or 
door sets, but the last time I 
checked, he was unable to provide keys by VIN or code.

Brian, publish the MB part number and someone can probably determine if it 
is a lock and key, or lock only.

At 06:58 PM 1/20/2006, you wrote:
>ARRGG!! I heard that Rusty doesn't sell ignition tumblers anymore!!
>
>Brian
>
>>From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
>>Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got Tumbler but no Key
>>Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 18:24:03 -0600
>>
>>its supposed to come with an extra key, should have ordered from rusty.
>>
>>Brian Chase wrote:
>>
>> > Is this in keeping with your experince, list? I received my new ignition
>> > tumbler today (c. $85). The guy told me it is "coded" to my existing
>> > key, but said it would come with a key included for that price. But it
>> > did not come with a key.
>> >
>> > Called him, he said, oh, the deal where it's coded to your existing key,
>> > is that it doesn't come with a key.
>> >
>> > Fortunately, I did order an "extra" key, thinking we'd wind up with two
>> > new steel, dealer-issued keys. But we'll make due with the one, and use
>> > the brass copy for backup.
>> >
>> > Brian
>> > 83 240D
>> >
>> > _
>> > Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
>> > Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > 
>> >
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>> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
>>--
>>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
>>http://www.striplin.net
>>
>>___
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>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
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>
>_
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>
>
>
>___
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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[MBZ] Seattle Craigslist 77 240D

[B Dike]

I happened to be in the vicinity so I though I  might as well check it out:  
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125148755.html, asking $1500.   Pretty nice 
condition, no major body problems, clean interior, a few  surface rust spots on 
roof, runs well, no smoke, MB Tex not leather,  auto.  Would make a good daily 
driver...or a car for teens...I'd  better stop before I talk myself into going 
back...
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seattle Craigslist 77 240D
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It's to late, you've already made up your mind.your going back!

R-

On 1/19/06, B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I happened to be in the vicinity so I though I  might as well check it ou=
t:  http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125148755.html, asking $1500.   Prett=
y nice condition, no major body problems, clean interior, a few  surface ru=
st spots on roof, runs well, no smoke, MB Tex not leather,  auto.  Would ma=
ke a good daily driver...or a car for teens...I'd  better stop before I tal=
k myself into going back...
>
>
>
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
> 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>
> -
> Yahoo! Photos
>  Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,=
 whatever.
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Non MB : Windows Media Player

[B Dike]

One of my kids figured that out the other day.  I will do my best to find out 
but I suspect I may have to offer something in exchange in case she is 'too 
busy right now'...
   
  Cheers,
   
  Bruce

Howard Fulford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Listers

I want to use Windows Media Player to create a random selection from my
music library, then load those MP3 music files onto an MP3 player

I know how to create a 'random' playlist with I-Tunes - how do I do it with
Media Player ?


All help much appreciated


Howard Fulford
Bath
England

190E '89, 137313 miles


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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Jan 19 00:00:53 2006
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] mistakes a diesel owner should not make
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AMEN.  In my neighborhood here, everyone seems to think is OK to just 
let their dogs runs around as they please. They often come in our yard 
to take a dump or whatever.  ARe those people prepared to loose their 
house or all their money when I sue them because their dog bit one of my 
kids?  I think not. Not everyone thinks that way and they should.  We 
had one dog that ALWAYS came to our house, terrorizing the cats, 
carrying off things off the porch, carried off several pairs of shoes 
from the next door neighbor etc. Have gone down to their house MANY 
times asking them to do something about it.  THey didnt want to chain 
it, were to cheap or unwilling to build a fence. The next door neighbor 
has been down to let them know what their dog does.  They do nothing 
about it.  The last time the dog was here we hooked a leash to it and 
tied it to a tree in the front yard and the wife wrote a letter to the 
neighbor telling them to get their dog under control and that it was 
tied to our tree and to come get it etc.  Well within a couple weeks the 
letter from the planning commision comes, but that is another story.

Tim C wrote:

> Well, let's look at this philosophically.  If someone cares for their pets,
> perhaps they should not allow their pets to trespass on others' property.
> Once your pet is on my property against my will, it is violating my rights
> (just as if you trespass on my property you are violating same rights), and
> has no rights of its own (well, animals don't actually have rights -
> technically what has occurred is you have forfeited your right to have your
> animal as your unharmed property) - so I can (morally speaking, not
> practically, see next paragraph) do to it what I want - let it roam,
> forcibly remove it, or end the problem in other ways.
> 
> Granted, legally the trespassee probably can't do much, but then again
> legally you can't do much when there's a robber in your house, either - even
> places that do have "make my day" laws usually really restrict their
> applicability (which is sad, blatant bs).  But, the main point is,
> responsible pet owners keep their animals under control and don't let them
> wander on people's cars or whatnot - and they shouldn't be upset when others
> are annoyed by this kind of irresponsibility, and express that annoyance in
> allegedly inappropriate ways.
> 
> Nomex suit on
> T
> 
> PS - Cats are great - with the right sauce 
> 
> 
>>-

-

Re: [MBZ] CR report on headlight bulbs

[B Dike]

Our 85 300CD has Euro lights with some high output bulbs from Daniel [can't 
remember last name] Lighting.  I thought they were great and was proud of them. 
 But the long-time Benz gurus here in Seattle have declared them inappropriate 
for our area here because of the hills around here.  The sharp upper cutoff in 
the pattern either leaves the driver blind when climbing hills or blinds the 
oncoming traffic when descending, or both.  And that is exactly what happens.  
With low beams we get flashed by oncoming drivers going uphill, but the pattern 
is on spec and is scary enough on hills without lowering it further.   The old 
DOT headlights don't have that problem.
   
  Bruce

Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  > Okay, I've been trying to hold back but, what is it about "improved" 
> lighting? I have absolutely no problem with the standard headlights in 
> my 240D and I pretty much can't imagine why I'd need more light. I 
> almost never use the highbeams now...

If you never get to go where it's very dark, the differences in lighting
are much less apparent. Most people live and drive where there is lots
of traffic, or streetlights.

And people's eye sensitivity does vary a lot, it seems to me.

The benefit of the Hella E-codes in the SL was _not_ the 'improved'
lighting pattern, though there is some difference there, but the
fact that higher wattage bulbs can then be used.

The true euro lights of the Frankenheap do have a nice low-beam
pattern. An even wide spread with a sharp cutoff and a nice rise
to the right. But, given that it uses R2 bulbs and the reflectors
are aged they're none too bright. It's rarely dark enough to
appreciate their lighting pattern. One of the R2's died and I
flanged in an H4. It's notably brighter, but the pattern degraded
a bit.

-- Jim


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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] glue oozing mirror
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uses one are much much cheaper.

Trampas wrote:

> I have several doing the same thing, I assumed it was glue. I even had the
> mirror on the 85 300SD break, well the plastic on the back of mirror broke
> such that spring for the night/day mode came out. $70 and a call to Rusty
> fixed it. 
> 
> Trampas
> 
>

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] Lest there be any doubt

[B Dike]

About smoke reduction with biodiesel, this year's  emissions check for the 82 
300CD with B100 showed a NINETY PERCENT  REDUCTION in opacity versus same car 2 
years ago with petro  diesel.  Same testing center and procedure.
  
   
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] barrett-jackson auction
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I just saw a VW bus go for 45k or so.

James Zavesky wrote:

> auctioning off cars we used to thrash in high school for monster money
> 
> should have kept them and put them away
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 9:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] barrett-jackson auction
> 
> 
> 
>>no, why?
>>
>>James Zavesky wrote:
>>
>>
>>>anybody watching the barrett-jackson auction on speedtv?
>>>
>>>James Zavesky
>>>
>>>___
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>>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>>>
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>>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>-- 
>>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>>  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
>>http://www.striplin.net
>>
>>___
>>http://www.striplin.net
>>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
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>>
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Fwd: What is a quick fix

[B Dike]

Marshall,
   
  It didn't seem to be a problem.  Initially there was a slight smudge, kind of 
like Rain-X, but it quickly wore off without a trace.
   
  Bruce

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  B Dike wrote:
> I sprayed the blades with silicone spray. Really drenched them with it. It 
> quieted the screech down to a teeny chirp. The brand X commodity blades don't 
> work well here in Rain City, so I keep the entire fleet equipped with Bosch. 
> But at current prices I don't mind getting one more season out of them. 

I thought it was USUALLY undesirable to get silicone on the glass and 
requires some work to remove it (Bon Ami will remove silicone, rain-X 
and oil residue from glass or is supposed to).

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D
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They probably put secondhand seats in it. Looks like a rust bucket anyway. 
Check out the rust just in front of the rear wheel arch.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D


> Rick Knoble wrote:
>>
>> http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/126140059.html
>
> Hey Sunil!
>
> What is that, parchment seats and palamino door panels?
>
> ___
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[MBZ] Fwd: What is a quick fix

[B Dike]

I sprayed the blades with silicone spray.  Really drenched them with it.   =
It quieted the screech down to a teeny chirp.  The brand X commodity blades=
 don't work well here in Rain City, so I keep the entire fleet equipped wit=
h Bosch.  But at current prices I don't mind getting one more season out of=
 them.  =


Bruce

Note: forwarded message attached.


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
=

-
Yahoo! Photos
 Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, w=
hatever.
-- next part ------
An embedded message was scrubbed...
From: B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: What is a quick fix
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 20:20:37 -0800 (PST)
Size: 984
Url: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/200601=
17/2348a17c/attachment.eml

Re: [MBZ] weekend cars

[B Dike]

I checked out the 77 240D, nice condition inside  and out, repaint, but motor 
is frozen solid.  Still available,  seller will reduce price.  Tempting project 
car.  No  affiliation.
  
  Bruce

redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  List of cars you need to delete, or read 
them and 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124501357.html  --  wtf  74 300D?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124457416.html  --  68 benz $500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124243374.html  --  77 240D $750

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/123993788.html  --  84 TD $7k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/123764283.html  --  81 240GD

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125148755.html  --  77 240d

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125052823.html  --  67 250se  $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125014443.html  --  83 Sd $3500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124938732.html  --  68 280SE  $5k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124731615.html  --  190D 2.5

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124724366.html  --  79 240D stick $4k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124638512.html  --  84 SD $2500

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124541832.html  --  74 D309  $6k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124544569.html  -- 89 TE  $4500


No affiliation, will look at them if you would like.

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


___
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] CR report on headlight bulbs
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BillR wrote:
> Harry - I just had a bulb go out in my '81 SD and replaced it with the
> Sylvania super bright white [19.98 at Advanced Auto; 24.xx at Pep Boys].
> When I pulled into my shed that evening the new bulb was a great deal
> brighter and more focused than the old halogen.  I ended up replacing the
> other good bulb and do see a difference.  Could be that the whiter and more
> focused light I see against the white back wall does not translate into
> better performance on the road when in a test vehicle, but seems much
> better.
>   

Just to play devil's advocate: I recently replaced a burned out 
headlight on my '83 300D.  The brand new bulb was noticably brighter and 
whiter than the remaining old bulb.  Both were standard halogens.

Re: [MBZ] size of fuel sending unit

[B Dike]

If it is the same as 123 unit a pair of channel lock pliers works fine.  Did 
several that way with them with no problems.
  
  Bruce

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  What size socket is needed to 
remove the fuel tank sending unit? (126). 
Before I have taken a chisel and was able to turn it by beating it with 
a hammer and chisel in the proper direction but no luck so far.  Dont 
have a socket big enough and would buy one but not sure what size.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] I live TO close to Kaleb
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On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 21:21:19 -0800 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> >> Driving home with no windows would sure be an adventure  :-D
> >
> > Especially when the local law enforcement personnel see you.
> 
> Wear a motorcycle helmet (with face shield).


Interesting thought, but they might be like the police in Austin, TX:

If it came from the factory with one, it needs to have one now.



Craig

Re: [MBZ] Must.... resist.... urge....

[B Dike]

Clay,
  
  I couldn't   That's my new 220D project. Checked it out  Saturday.  Will 
likely need a head if not a new motor.  He  has a near-perfect 69(?) 280SEL 
that was already spoken for by some guy  in Yakima for $3500.  Also has a 84 
300SD.   He's clearing  out his stuff and moving to Arizona.  Can't imagine 
why, we only  had 27 straight days of rain, missed the record by 6 whole days. 
  
  Bruce

redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/124882537.html

maybe Jim needs this


or Casey


anybody?
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


___
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 220D Questions/answers
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> Well, whatever it does, I do not use it

Hardly cold enough there?  Often by now it doesn't work
anyway.  Your base idle speed could also be set a little high.

I use mine every time.  I take it off at the bottom of the hill.

-- Jim

[MBZ] 220D Questions

[B Dike]

 Dieselvolks,
  
  We're contemplating a 220D project.  Questions:  
  1. How does the 0-60 time compare to the 240D?
  2. Is there any significant advantage in fuel economy over the 240D?
  3. Are there any other major differences between the W115 220D and 240D?
  
  Thanks,
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Some ideas for your 123's
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Back in the early 80's DE Davis went to C&D as Editor.  One of the perks was 
a company car - a W123 wagon was available and they customized it. The mag 
ran an article showing the mods - + sized wheels, contrasting paint from the 
body moulding down, lowered, kick-ass stereo with multiple speakers in all 
doors, CD player (a marvel back then), gazzillion watts, etc - euro lights 
and some other goodies I can't recall.

The lowering, contrast paint below the molding and the wide, low profile mag 
wheels were very cool.  Some of the other stuff was a bit garish but it's 
all personal taste, I guess.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:00 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Some ideas for your 123's


> Don't look Vince:-)
> http://32.freebb.com/w123universe/w123universe-article13.html
>
> Hendrik
> who has just a little bit more taste than that
> ___
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[MBZ] What is a quick fix

[B Dike]

 for squeaky wiper blades?
  
  TIA,
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced?
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Advanced metals should be able to dissapate heat better than old type 
metals. Saw a video a while back of an M60 machine gun (Oh no I got them 
going on guns again) firing for 90 seconds non stop. The manufacturers of 
the advanced barrels claim that they can put 20,000 rounds through it before 
needing to service it. So if gun metals are advancing I see no reason that 
metals in an engine will not follow. Although I would say at this stage cost 
is a factor.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced?


> Folks, the function of oil in an engine is twofold:  to lubricate, and 
> more
> importantly to a turboDiesel, to cool the pistons and cylinder walls.
> Without oil being sprayed on the undersides of pistons, they would 
> probably
> melt if running under heavy loads.  Solid lubricants don't mention how 
> they
> would solve this cooling problem
> Werner
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 10:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this mean Mobil 1 will be replaced?
>
>
>> On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:52:14 -0600 "Harry Watkins" 
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> http://www.physorg.com/news8947.html
>>>
>>> I wish I was smart enough to understand it all, but I am not.
>>
>> The article to which you must be referring is at
>> http://www.isracast.com/tech_news/201204_tech.htm.
>>
>> The short answer is, "No, Mobil 1 will not be replaced yet."
>>
>> The long answer: New engines may be able to be manufactured and run such
>> that they don't use any oil. It depends upon contamination, particularly
>> with the particulates related to diesel. Older engines will still have to
>> use oil. It may be that Mobil 1 will have the inorganic Fullerine-like
>> nanoparticles added to reduce friction. They will be small enough to flow
>> through filters, unlike the teflon oil additives.
>>
>>
>> Craig
>
>
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[MBZ] 240D for LA folks

[B Dike]

 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/122768197.html


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Not enough information -

On 1/8/06, B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/123669835.html
>
>   Doh!
>
> B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Any opinions on this?
>
>
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
> 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>
> -
> Yahoo! Photos
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>
>
>
>
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
> 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>
> -
> Yahoo! Photos
>  Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands=
 ASAP.
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, '87 300SDL 290K,  '81 240D 173K,  '78 450SLC 67K, '97
Ply Grand Voyager 78K

Re: [MBZ] Billion and billions of emails

[B Dike]

Steve,
  
  Sorry, can't help you with your email problem but your very cool 64  Yamaha 
350 caught my eye.  How fast can those things really go?
  
  Cheers,
  
  Bruce

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I feel like Carl Sagen in cyber land. Why am I 
getting a billion and  
billions of emails every day from the Mercedes group? I used to get one or two  
emails with about twenty letters in each. Is this some sort of protest by the  
web 
server to get rid of people on the list? List Mom would never stand for  this! 
May she rest in peace. There were 996 emails in my mailbox today. I would  
say 97% were from the Mercedes Club.
 
steve vilardi
77 Vette
89 BMW 535i
83 Mercedes 240D
96 Ford Econoline  Chateau
89 Ford Econoline E-150
78 Dodge RV with 440
85 Harley  Electra-Glide
85 Yamaha Riva scooter
64 Yamaha 350 two stroke
A ton of  bicycles
Three folding bikes
1 bottle of Beefeater  Gin

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
Yahoo! Photos
 Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset
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> Good show!  Resistance loads are the easiest to deal with but you can 
> use
> them to load test the generator just fine.  About 17 coffee pots, space
> heaters, and/or toaster ovens would work and you could have breakfast
> and keep warm while you test.

Keeping warm while testing is not a problem!  Remember that IC engines
waste about 2/3 the fuel as heat and often I'm standing with the
exhaust from the open exhaust ports blowing at my chest.  Loud and
smelly!  I always open a couple of garage doors when running the
generator.

The generator is in a garage bay with the Frankenheap parked outside.
The radiator points at the heap.  It was snowing this morning and
the windshield was covered.  By the time I was done testing the
car's windshield was clear and the LP tank's gauge had moved
noticeably.

I've also got a basket-load of electric furnace resistance elements
I bought at St. Vinnie's for about $1 each.  The idea was to flange
those up in front of a fan as a serious dummy load when the time came.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 62

[B Dike]

I'm not acquainted with the referenced 300 gasser,  but as a kid I drove our 
family's 1966 250S which was anything but  slow.  In fact it was a jet.  My 
sister claimed she had it  over 120 mph. It was a straight 6 with a torque 
curve that never ended  when you  wound it up.  And it was smooth and quiet as 
a  turbine, but longevity was not its strong point.  Unbelievable  smooth ride. 
 I seem to recall 17 mpg as typical. The 240Z motor  was a carbon copy. 

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  they are pretty slow, and get 
just a mile or 2 better than the V-8 
would, city 16, 19 higway, 420SEL 15 city, 18 highway, 560 gets 13 city 
17 highway

Dan Weeks wrote:

> What kind of mileage do the gasser 300s with the straight six (such 
> as the one Mr. Snook is getting) get for mileage, power, torque, 0-60 
> times, top speed, lifespan in miles? Just curious...
> 
> Dan

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: [MBZ] Can't resist a good deal
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Any opinions on this? 


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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[MBZ] OT: Carfaxes?

[B Dike]

Teenage son has 84 BMW 318i.  Stopped because tabs expired, policeman noticed 
VIN didn't match plates, threatened impoundment.  Son told to park car.  I 
visited said car, noticed 2 different VINs, one on dash, another on doorpost 
(which matched plates)!   New tabs successfully obtained, but would a carfax 
reveal if the car a front clip or what?
   
  Dash VIN: WBAAK8406E8685568
  Post VIN: WBAAK7402E8715045


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] rare ones - I want these
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Sunil Hari wrote:
> 
> so when they say "photoshop," do they mean that this is a shop of photos, or
> that these are all images created in Adobe Photoshop? 

Unfortunately, it says this at the bottom of the index page:

Photochopped Cars, made with Adobe Photoshop and Corel Photopaint. No online 
gambling
here, keine Gewinnspiele. Alles frei, umsonst.

http://www.cwwcardesign.com/index.html

Re: [MBZ] Oh my God

[B Dike]

So I also thought, but when I got a car back from the MB-designated bodyshop 
last year they said the new paint formulation could be waxed immediately.
   
  Bruce

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Hans Neureiter wrote:
> Since my new paint job is now a little over a week old I decided to wax the
> car.
> I made a gruesome discovery.
> Especially since I got my ass chewed out for having two stars at the front
> of my E300D, I am afraid that the penalty will be steep.
> My rear end reads since the paint rejuvenation: " TURBODIESEL . *
> ... 300SD "
> Folks, I peg for forgiveness.

It is usual to FORBID waxing a newly painted car for MONTHS! It can 
damage the paint/

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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RLE writes:

> 
> Having inspected one in the metal and talked to the driver 
> and read the roadtest (below), I concluded that at 35 to 46K, 
> I would rather buy a real car.

Yep, I get the wind in the hair treatment on my bike. :)

> I don't know what a Colnago C40 is

All carbon fiber bicycle frame from one of the industry's most respected
manufacturers. Some consider the C40 as the ultimate racing bike. Builds up
into a 17 lb racing bike that flies up and down hills, priced as a complete
bike at around $7-9K.

http://www.ebykr.com/?p=30

I bought a used frame last year and built it up all Italian parts
(Campagnolo). What a wonderful riding machine!

Lee

Re: [MBZ] Anyone in CO looking for a coupe?

[B Dike]

My coupes are both turbos but I drove a NA coupe once and it actually had 
decent performance.  I think they may be a bit more reliable and easier to 
maintain with better longevity than the turbo.  I would expect 29 mpg, not 39.  
They are heavy cars after all, the coupes are listed as only 80 lbs lighter 
than the sedan.  I wish MB had produced a 115 diesel coupe.   Did I mention 
that I really like the W115?
   
  Cheers,
   
  Bruce

Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Luther wrote:



Jeepers, the ePay mileage disease is spreading!!! 39MPG??



http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/car/114428095.html



What are these non-turbo 123's like. I really like the look of this car
and the color. But, I have never driven one of these without a turbo.
What are they like? Are they dogs? More reliable? 



Donald H. Snook



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Spare 115 relays?
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The hazard relay?  Gone bad?  But it works and the other one is not.  
SO, just clean them both?

On Wednesday, January 4, 2006, at 07:54 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

>> The relay makes the noise, the blink do not blink.  The hazards work
>> just fine and blink all around, even when the signal choses not not
>> function.
>
> If the hazards are working perfectly and the indicators at
> least light up the problem is most probably inside the hazard
> switch/flasher relay unit.  Open it up and sic the white
> tornado on it.
>
> Frankenheap's hazards worked just fine even though the turn
> signals often did not.  Post-operation everything works.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
>


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] Anyone in CO looking for a coupe?

[B Dike]

 http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/car/114428095.html


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
Yahoo! Photos
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
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These are gross, regional averages.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 10:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices


Diesel at the FlyingJ truck stop at exit 2C/I-295 in South Jersey is $2.259
today, while in Vienna, Va just outside the beltway is 50 to70 cents higher.
Werner

- Original Message -
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 11:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices


>
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 1:40 PM
> To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
> Subject: Today's Diesel Prices
>
>
> **  **  **   *
> ****   *  *  ***   U.S. Department of Energy**
>   **  ** * Energy Information Administration *
> **** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, **
> **  **  **  **   * see the message footnotes *
> *
> EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. ***
> **
>
> (NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should
> be set to view the item in an 80 character format, using a
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>
>  On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD
>(Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes)
>
>Diesel Prices Web URL:
> http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp
>
>
>  US
> NATL  EASTNEWCENTLOWER   GULF   ROCKY   WEST
> DATEAVG   COAST ENGLAND   ATL ATL   MIDWEST  COAST   MTN   COAST
> CA
>
>   PADD   PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD   PADD
> I IA  IB  IC  II III  IV V
> --  -  - ---  -   -  ---  -  -  -
>  -
> 
>
> 060102  2.442  2.481  2.645   2.590   2.420   2.412   2.414  2.392  2.519
> 2.538
> 051226  2.448  2.481  2.643   2.599   2.416   2.420   2.421  2.410  2.523
> 2.543
> 051219  2.462  2.499  2.647   2.609   2.438   2.443   2.435  2.410  2.505
> 2.521
> 051212  2.436  2.458  2.598   2.577   2.393   2.409   2.429  2.401  2.500
> 2.465
> 051205  2.425  2.428  2.591   2.569   2.354   2.390   2.411  2.471  2.538
> 2.486
> 051128  2.479  2.467  2.619   2.604   2.394   2.442   2.456  2.591  2.617
> 2.559
> 051121  2.513  2.491  2.652   2.615   2.423   2.477   2.491  2.654  2.652
> 2.599
> 051114  2.602  2.565  2.699   2.689   2.500 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[B Dike]

 Isn't it more like a STDP?
  
  Bruce

Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  > Put back the upper hose
> 7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
> keep an eye on the temp gauge.

We're OK up to here.  But without a thermostat, coolant
won't be forced to flow through the radiator and will
prefer to take the bypass channel, _especially_ if your
radiator is a bit occluded.

You must have a thermostat installed, or a bypass thermostat
(one that is forced open).  The thermostats in MB's are, in
electrical parlance, SPDT switches, not the more common SPST
type.  There's a secondary valve surface that cuts off the
bypass passage at the same time it opens up the radiator
passage.

-- Jim


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You'll notice though that the sleezebag sellers will never leave 
feedback until you do, those clowns are just laying in wait to retaliate 
for what they know is coming for their lieing.

-Robert

LT Don wrote:
> That has been my philosophy. I have left neutral, once, I think. And I never
> leave feedback until the other party has first. I'm sitting at 151 feedbacks
> / 100% positive.
>
> On 12/30/05, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   
>>
>> Now if I don't have anything nice to say, I just don't leave feedback.
>>
>> 
>
> --
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>
> http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[B Dike]

Tan,
  
  You must reinstall the thermostat before step 7.  The thermostat  when fully 
open routes coolant to the radiator instead of the bypass.
  
  Bruce

Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Well, we have a lot good insight here. So 
here is what
my plan is:

1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and fill
the engine and radiator.
4. Close overflow tank cap
5. Start the engine
6. If coolant comes out the engine madly, pump is ok.
Put back the upper hose
7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
keep an eye on the temp gauge.
8. Turn off the engine. Hand check the radiator
surface to see if there is any cold spot. 
9. If all check out OK, I am out of ideas again.



Tan

--- Jim Cathey  wrote:

> > I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to
> come
> > up with something else to get the block temp.
> 
> Harbor Freight has them on sale periodically for
> $50.
> Mighty handy.
> 
> > Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out the
> > upper radiator hose even with thermostat in,
> right?
> 
> Que?  Flow direction is from top to bottom, and the
> thermostat is in series with the top hose to the
> radiator.  Trampas' advice is good.
> 
> If you insist in replacing the pump and it doesn't
> help, be prepared for some ribbing!  It _could_ be
> bad, but it's highly unlikely.  We will apologize
> profusely if it _is_ bad, and say "Huh.  One for
> the books."
> 
> > How likely is that the temp sensor is bad? Where
> is
> 
> It happens quite a lot, actually.  I'm surprised we
> all
> forgot to recommend an independent test of the gauge
> temperature.
> 
> > the sensor located that is connected to the gauge?
> I
> > know there is one right below the thermostat
> housing
> > and one near the upper radiator hose. I actually
> > disconnected both both the gauge still registered
> > 120C. Is there a third temp sensor that I don't
> know
> > of?
> 
> Look on the side of the head near the middle.  Might
> be kind of buried.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
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My 300D 2.5 got 33.3 MPG today on a 170 mile round trip at 75-80 with
strong cross winds , two people, and running snow tires.


--
OK

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[B Dike]

Tan,
  
  Even though the tstat opens it may not be opening enough to block the  
bypass.  So a new tstat should be installed unless you have  measured both the 
old tstat travel and the bypass depth, and confirmed  that it will close the 
bypass.  An eroded tstat housing can also  cause the same problem, as can lots 
of other things.  A mechanic  once suggested to put a hand on different 
portions of the radiator to  feel if any segments are cold due to blocked 
channels.
  
  Good Luck,
  
  Bruce

Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to 
overheat.
Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came on
but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
clutch with a good used one and also the belt. Rest of
the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced the
thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The upper
radiator hose was not pressurized when the car cooled
down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole time I
was testing the car the lower radiator hose was cold.
It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
was a known good one, actually came off the same car
when I did preventative maintenance. 

Any possibility that the water pump could be bad (put
in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when the
water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
pressure in the coolant system (applied by the water
pump) push open the valve? 

Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.


Tan




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Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
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I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to come
up with something else to get the block temp. 

Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out the
upper radiator hose even with thermostat in, right? 

How likely is that the temp sensor is bad? Where is
the sensor located that is connected to the gauge? I
know there is one right below the thermostat housing
and one near the upper radiator hose. I actually
disconnected both both the gauge still registered
120C. Is there a third temp sensor that I don't know
of?


Tan

--- Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> First step is to start car cold, open hood check and
> see if upper radiator
> hose has pressure, if so you need a head gasket
> and/or head. 
> 
> Now warm up 

Re: [MBZ] OT: Taurus Tranny Troubles

[B Dike]

Good question, wife and kids ask same.  2  reasons, car has a trailer hitch and 
I can put my boat on top.   Found a place that will install rebuilt tranny for 
$1600 with 3  yr/36000 warranty.  I'm on the fence with this.

Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Any ideas before I buy a new tranny?

Yes, not to be rude but WHY?

The money would be better invested in something else more durable.
Seriously. 

Also, if you or your daughter haven't checked out Ferd parts pricing
recently, you may get an awful shock. At least here in Canada, Ford is way
above both other domestics and most imports. By a mile or two.

Mac


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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: [MBZ] Need EE help to test SDL seat motor
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I would like to make sure the fore/aft motor operates before putting the =
seat back in the car.

There are five wires, two large and three small.  The two large green =
and red) go directly into the motor.  The three small stop at a =
connector attached to the motor, then go in.  I can feed juice at the =
pigtail connector.

Before removing the seat, It would  "bump" trying to go one way and =
nothing the other way.  I now have the motor frame and gear assembly off =
the seat and on the bench.  I did not remove the motors from their =
mounts YET.

Before I start guessing with which wires to put juice into, I thought =
perhaps someone has a suggestion/approach.

Thanks.
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

[MBZ] OT: Taurus Tranny Troubles

[B Dike]

Apologies for soiling the MB list with Ford  drivel, but just wanted to see if 
anyone has run across this  problem:  94 Taurus w/ AXOD auto transmission, 
shifts into all  gears with a solid clunk, but if car is stopped, need to race 
engine  hard to make tranny engage, both forward or reverse.  Once moving,  car 
drives and shifts fine.  Changed fluid and filter, no  difference.  Happened 
all at once according to daughter.  I'm  thinking it's toast.  Any ideas before 
I buy a new tranny?
  
  Thanks,
  
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Any ideas before I buy a new tranny?

Yes, not to be rude but WHY?

The money would be better invested in something else more durable.
Seriously. 

Also, if you or your daughter haven't checked out Ferd parts pricing
recently, you may get an awful shock. At least here in Canada, Ford is way
above both other domestics and most imports. By a mile or two.

Mac

[MBZ] 77 240D vacuum diagram?

[B Dike]

Would someone be so kind as to post the vacuum line diagram for the 77 240D?  I 
obviously have way too much time on my hands, as I feel compelled to get the 
locks working again.
   
  Thanks,


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 77 240D vacuum diagram?
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B Dike wrote:
> Would someone be so kind as to post the vacuum line diagram for the 77 240D?  
> I obviously have way too much time on my hands, as I feel compelled to get 
> the locks working again.
>

These sites should cover what you want/need.

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/Index/Groups/80CentralLockSystem.htm

http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/chassis_77_4d.htm

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Thinking about selling my 240D

[B Dike]

Tan,
  
  Simply add a teen-age driver or two to your family and savor the deep  
satisfaction of watching them grow to embrace the functionality,  frugality, 
and individuality of a vehicle like the 240D.
  
  Cheers,
  
  Bruce

Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Well I am deciding whether to keep my old 
240D or sell
it. This is a 1982 240D 4-speed manual with almost
270,000 miles on it. It's not perfect but is a lot
better than you may think. I will try to describe its
condition in detail.

The car spent most of its life in Georgia until 4
years ago the 2nd owner brought it to Florida. I am
the 3rd owner I think. The first owner was a minister
and a good friend of the 2nd owner. The 2nd owner
pegged him for many years and one day finally won it.
Being a southern car it almost has zero rust except
one place - under the lower left corner of the rear
windshield seal - the 2nd PO waited too long to
replace the cracked windshield seal. It's very small
(1/4") and is not visible (under the new windshield)
if I don't tell you. I had the seal replaced soon
after I bought it. The front windshield and seal have
been replaced and is in great condition. Other than
this spot, the car is pretty much rust-free. The
bottom of chassis is in a beautiful condition. 

Engine:
The engine has always been well maintained. 2nd PO
used Amsoil 15W40 synthetic oil while he owned it. I
use Mobil-1 15W50 and Amsoil 15W40 (most of the time).
I have replaced timing chain, chain tensioner and
valve seals soon after I acquired it. The chain was
riveted with the OEM tool (SIR tool not the Mercedes
tool) and was returned to 0 degree stretch after the
chain was replaced. Right now it is close to 2 degrees
so I think the gears and other parts had some wear.
The valve seals were replaced with the OEM tool (SIR
tool) as well. The car does not smoke at start up or
warmed up. The engine does have blowby and at this
time I think either rings are still sticking or just
plainly worn. It uses a quart of oil every 800 to 1000
miles, mostly on highway. I drive it at average 75 mph
or sometime over 80 mph when passing (a pain with 67
HP). It has good power and can maintain the 75 mph
cruising speed effortlessly. 
Thermostat has been replaced and I have always used MB
antifreeze. The coolant temp stay at 80 to 82 degree
steady. 2nd PO has all belts and hoses replaced prior
to I bought it (60k miles ago). Fuel filters (primary
and spin-on), air filters replaced every 15k miles.
The fuel strainer and the fitted hose at the fuel tank
are new (did last year). I took the tank out and
flushed the whole thing. Cleaned fuel level sender and
replaced the seals. Also put in a new fuel filler neck
seal. Power steering filter and fluid were replaced by
P.O. (60k miles ago). New glow plugs (Bosch, did last
December). 

Transmission/Driveline:
The clutch plate and pressure plate were replaced last
year. The clutch plate was new and pressure plate was
used. New throwout bearing. Mobil-1 ATF in the manual
transmission. New clutch slave cylinder (gold ATE).
New clutch master cylinder (FTE/Sachs?). 2nd owner did
the flex discs (front and rear) 60k miles ago. One of
the half shafts was replaced with a good used one (not
rebuilt). Both half shafts are in good condition. All
transmission linkage bushings are new (genuine MB
parts, still has old ones, they are still good). All
bushing in the shifter assembly are new too (MB
parts). New shifter knob. 

A/C:
This model has the manual A/C and heater control. A/C
was retrofiited to the R-134A system. Remanufactured
R-4 compressor. It works but is probably not
satisfactory to many on this list. I don't usually use
it around the town. I mostly use it on highway. It
cools marginal - cold but not icy (I am in Florida).
Need to recharge every two years. Heater on this car
is toasty. The manual heater valve was replaced.

Brake system:
2nd PO replaced all the brake pads (60k miles ago). I
flush the system once a year with Volvoline syntec so
it has been problem free. The seal beteen the brake
master cylinder and brake booster may need replacing.
It is a littel wet at the connetion surface. 

Suspension/steering

New upper control arms. New steering damper and idler
arm. Tie rods and ball joints in good condition. The
only thing needs replacing at the front end are guide
rod mounts. New sway bar links at the rear. Subframe
mounts may need replacing. New KYB shocks at front and
back (yes I cheaped out on this one). Ride ok but
probably not as good as Bilstein. 


Cruise control:
Not working presently. The AMP was bad. I have a
remanufactured one but never put it in - I just don't
have any use of it.

Sunroof:
Working properly. Bought the sunroof lube from Rusty
but haven't got a chance to lube the rails yet.

Tires:
Almost new. Replaced 3 months ago. Kuhmo brand.

Windows:
Manual windows. Works properly.

Extras:
Passenger side mirror. Trunk mounted triangle
(european delivery).

I think I have covered the mechanical aspects of the
ca

Re: [MBZ] need a 240D in Seattle?

[B Dike]

Drats!  Need another one for the kids.  What did it go for?
  
  Bruce

redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I got this and wonder if anybody local 
enough wants to try his luck on 
a possible cheap car


  Hi Biofuel Folks,
> Saw this diesel car coming up for auction on Saturday. If you're not
> prepared with a mechanic and money to buy/fix it I would not even go:
>
> Lincoln Towing 12/17/05 Auction in N. Seattle 9am
>
> MERCEDES 1981 240D WA323A233236069?? (bad vin)
>
> more info-
> http://www.roadoneseattle.com
>
>
> Notes Based on my Experience:
> the owner may pay the fines and take the car back before auction
> dress warm, take cash
> go early and really look it over, it won't be running but check oil, 
> body,
> etc
> car should sell for under wholesale [$800 ?]
> have a plan to get the car out of the yard quick (start it and drive or
> arrange a tow)
> you might have to have a key made but there is a guy in a van who does 
> it
> if you're the high bidder it's yours and you have to pay and take it
> within the rules
> auction will charge fees and wa registration tax
> krispy kreme is nearby :)
>
> ___
> Discussion mailing list
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://lists.nwbiodiesel.org/mailman/listinfo/discussion
>
>


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
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Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 21:13:30 -0800 (PST)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Old Thermostat flush tool?
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Harry,
  
  Pull it apart and put a piece of metal tubing on the shaft to keep it  open.  
See picures at photos.yahoo.com/dikefam2002 in the mercedes  folder.
  
  Good luck,
  
  Bruce

Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  To all

Now that I have an old thermostat, what is required to make a flush tool?

Anyone BTDT?

Thanks
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
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Re: [MBZ] Selling 1981 240D

[B Dike]

Jim
   
  Where are you located?
   
  Thanks,
   
  Bruce

Jim Keefe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Well, cosidering selling if there is any interest. About 160K miles, 
doesn't start well in cold, runs and shifts OK, vacuum leak renders door 
locks inoperative, minor body rough spots, may be worth restoring. Any 
interest?



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)
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Hmm, I don't even see any specific mention of wheel corrosion on there...
I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, but if I'm reading what seems to be
their main reason which is the entire first paragraph is essentially becaus=
e
air is evil and destroying your tires (or as they put it: "Oxygen, on the
other hand, is immensely destructive to rubber" and " This same process
occurs in tires inflated with air as the oxygen attacks the rubber
molecules,".  Hmm, well ok, let's say I bought 200K mile warrantied tires
and only put 5K miles on them a year and was going to keep the car forever.
Ok, then yeah it would be nice if the tires didn't dry-rot after 20 years
(assuming that this evil air was what was causing the dry rot and not thing=
s
like UV rays), I would still rather question how I would be intended to
drive down the road or park the car until I get my "nitrogen chamber" to
keep all that evil air that the outsides of the tire would be exposed to...

No flames intended, I'm just finding that page rather funny until someone
fills me in on the part I'm missing...  (:

Levi

On 12/15/05, Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Remember, these people are selling a product, but that is their argiment:
> http://www.whynitrofill.com/faq.htm
>
>
> On 12/15/05, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Sounds like you guys need some new tires or cleaner wheels or something=
.
> >
> > Unless I've got a slow leak my tires hold their pressure other than a
> > couple
> > lbs difference summer to winter.  In other words, I set the tire
> pressure
> > in
> > the summer ones when I put them on at around 60-70 degrees and that's
> good
> > until about winter when I put the winter tires on at around 20-30
> degrees.
> > And that's fine until spring.
> >
> > At least here in upstate NY where the temps average around there.  I'm
> > certainly not going to run out and change my tire pressure pressure whe=
n
> > it
> > gets down to 5 degrees at night, then reduce them again for the ri

Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

[B Dike]

Richard,
   
  I went through the same episode a while back.  Definitely go with option A.  
In my situation it was a case of a worn tumbler and sticky steering lock.  It 
may take some teasing, but if the new key worked once it will eventually work 
one more time. If the tumbler is worn and fussy, a sticky steering lock will 
exacerbate the problem and make it almost impossible.  Go under the dash and 
spray some solvent into the steering lock mechanism from every possible seam 
and  joint.  It may take a couple light smacks with a brass hammer on the 
housing to shake things loose.  Jiggle the steering wheel.  Mine needed a hard 
slam on the wheel to allow the spring loaded steering lock to break loose and 
reduce the resistance against the tumbler.
   
  Good Luck,
   
  Bruce

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Friend of mine has encountered a problem with his 500 SE W126 1988 
and asked for advice. Here's what happened and what I advised so far 
(and what the MB dealer gave as a quote). Any further ideas and 
suggestions would be helpful, as always ;-)

The ignition lock got sticky and it was not possible to start the 
engine or disengage the steering lock and get it into position 1 
(which is of course the necessary step to remove the tumbler in the 
normal way).

As the car was parked at a drop-off lane at a railway station, he had 
to call the breakdown service of the AA (the equivalent of the AAA in 
the UK). They tried to unseize the lock tumbler with WD40 and 
rattling, knocking etc. All the usual tricks. As the tumbler would 
have to be replaced anyway, they had a go whatever. No luck. The even 
broke off the last remaining key and part of it was stuck. They could 
later take the piece out of the lock with on the of the usual tricks 
(small drop of superglue on the key remainder, VERY carefully!)

Car had to be towed away to the next dealership.

On my advice, he ordered straight away a new key and a new ignition 
tumbler which takes a couple of days to arrive from Germany.

Dealer quoted later GBP 700 + VAT (17.5%), around US-$1,500 in total, 
for removal of the sterring lock plus tumbler and to replace the 
whole assembly.

When the new key arrived, my friend tried it and he got it into 
position one! Only to then take it out again on the assumption that 
he could repeat that trick. What a stupid mistake! It turns out that 
since then no-one could turn it to 1 again!

I told him, that there are now only two options:

a) he gets the key somehow again to position 1 so that the lock pin 
can be released with a wire put into the small hole as per the normal 
procedure to r&r the tumbler. A matter of maybe 10 minutes.

or 

b) to do the labour intensive and violent workaround by drilling out 
the small locking pin that secures the steering lock assembly to the 
column (relatively easy on a 126 with a Dremel and a diamond bit), 
drop the column a bit, then wriggle the complete lock assembly out 
from under the dash, cut out the ignition switch with a Dremel 
cutting disc off. Needs a new tumbler, a second hand steering lock 
and maybe a new switch depending how careful the cutting was done. 3-
5 hours work for an experienced DIY person on a 126.

I understand why he wants to go by a) if at all possible ...

Now the car is positioned at an outside car park and cannot be 
renoved easily due to the steering locked. Temperatures are around 
freezing temperatures during the night and a bit higher during the 
day. He wants to heat the car's interior up and dry out the interior 
with the heating and a/c, but he wants to somehow start the engine 
for that (no electricity around, and no generator can be started 
there).

He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the 
ignition lock. 

I suppose there is, but my experience on the newer models (yes, I 
consider the 126 to be that) is limited. What are the implications 
for fuel injection, ignition modules, airbag, etc. ?

Is there a way to start the engine without messing up the ignition 
circuit or anything else? 

If any listers can shed light on this question, I would appreciate. 
Otherwise I am inclined to advise against the starting and go to 
option no. 2 and drill out the lock assembly. Or is there even 
another avenue to contemplate?

Richard Becker
London

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

[B Dike]

Harry,
  
  The thermostat response is critically calibrated.  A fraction of a  
millimeter in valve position can make a big difference in coolant flow  control.
  
  Bruce

Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I will replace the T-stat, I am 
making up my Rusty order right now.  I'll
also test the old and new side by side on the stove, JFME> :>)

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" 


> I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can
be
> the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
> else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.
>
> I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.
>
> Don
>
>
> On 12/12/05, Harry Watkins  wrote:
> >
> > To all
> >
> > On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and
I
> > followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never
saw
> > ANY sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge
never
> > got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like
I
> > have in other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.
> >
> > Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it
> > wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before
bubbles
> > begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is
> > normal or not.
> >
> > MPG = 23, is that about right?
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Harry Watkins



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?
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X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:52:52 -

Hendrik

Dummy me, I never even thought about checking the radiator when we stopped,
I guess I was convinced it was really running cool because of being cold in
the cab.  I'll wait for my new thermostat before going back up, then I'll
check if the T-stat doesn't cure it.

Thanks.

Harry

- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> That or a dodgy temp sender/gauge. Does the radiator feel hot after going
> for a drive?
>
> Hendrik
>

Re: [MBZ] Seriously?

[B Dike]

I found a nearly identical car last year in  Seattle for $600 but wouldn't take 
$2500 for it now that all the bugs  are worked out.  Manual climate control is 
wonderful. AC actually  works.  It's been an absolutely superb daily driver for 
6 months  now but may hand the keys to one of the kids who needs a car. The 
other  240D (75 W115) is still running daughter to and from UW campus but  
sustained cosmetic battle damage from late night hit and runs by frat  row kids.

Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Seriously a turd-brown '79 240D with 
manual windows and locks for $5K?
WOW!  I know the stick-shift makes a difference, but sheesh!  

 

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/116880776.html

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851
t




Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?
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> sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never 
> got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot 
> like I have in
> other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

Two independent indications of a stuck-open (or opens-early) thermostat.

> Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it 
> wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before 
> bubbles begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know 
> if this is normal or not.

Sounds like it opens too early to me.   One of the failure modes.
You need a thermometer in the pan to derive the most information
from this test.

> MPG = 23, is that about right?

Maybe a tetch low, but not being up to full operating temperature
hurts mileage.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] cold day reflections on owning a diesel

[B Dike]

How old is the battery?  May be time for a new one.  

LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  It has happened every winter since I bought 
my '77 240D. Today it happened
again. I jumped into the car at work to make a grocery run for a planned
supper (Mexican Lasagna, by the way), pre-glowed, pre-glow light no longer
illuminated, turned the key, and heard a slow -- painfully slow -- crank of
the engine then silence. How could this happen? I'd taken five quick
one-mile trips in the car today in single digit temps [that is a giant
hint?].

Anyway, when I walked back into the office, our admin assistant said, "That
was a quick trip." I admitted that once again my diesel wouldn't start.

She asked me the penultimate question: "If it is this much a pain in the
ass, why do you INSIST (she is married, so has the language and tone down
pat) on driving a diesel?"

I had several answers for her:

1. I am stupid, I knew a month ago that I needed to add water to the
battery but didn't.
2. A little birdie told me to put the Benz onto the battery charger last
night, but I blew it off.
3. I am an idiot.
4. Why do YOU drive a minivan?

Fortunately, our operations manager was standing there (he is a typical Iowa
farmer about my age, a former 'Nam Green Beret who is able to take off one
of his legs at will to shine it up after being introduced to Mister
Landmine) and gave a better reply than I could muster in my moment of
frustration.

Nick said: "Maybe because it will last forever -- 500,000 miles easy."

Denise (admin assistant) asked me, "Tell me again, what year is your car?"
I told her it was a 1977 model. She swallowed then said, "Gosh, it is the
same age I am."

I rest my case!

I told Denise that I am hoping this is the last car I have to buy for ME. I
am 52 and I expect that, with good maintenance and my current pace of low
annual miles and perhaps a sacrifice to the rust Gods, this diesel will
still be on the road when the state tells me I am too old to drive any
longer. I threw out a figure of 25 years, and Denise said, "Gawd, I will be
about YOUR age then!"

Oh -- I just put about 2 cups of water into the Interstate MegaMother
battery and hooked up the battery charger. I'm sure the alternator is
working fine, because after about 15 minutes if driving and letting it idle
while I was in the store getting supper, it cranked right up. Only drawing 7
amps on the charger, so I think the drive helped with the resurrection.

By the way, I when I couldn't get my jumper cables to work on my wife's car
(damn'd side battery terminals buried under the windshield washer reservoir)
I walked across the street and borrowed a "hot pack" from the car repair
place. Slapped that on and the old Benz fired right up. I will need to
search eBay for a good deal one of those ES5000 [I forget the rest of the
name].

Don










--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Some things are just plain wrong
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Re: [MBZ] Helloooooooooo

[B Dike]

Kaleb,
  
  Do you have a Ebay store?
  
  Between Bites,
  
  Bruce
  

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Anybody out there?  Am I the 
only one working on thanksgiving?  Yes, 
while the wife is cooking Im stuck in front of the computer getting 
parts ready for ebay.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] just what you need to speed up your 240D
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Check out their website:
http://www.houstoneuropean.com/
100% money back, 30 day guarantee ( junkyard with big overhead )


On 11/24/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-BENZ-DIESEL-ENGINE-Sprinter-Engin=
e_W0QQitemZ8017488447QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
> 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Green Fuels Would Damage Environment, Critics Charge

[B Dike]

Isn't that the 'everybody does it' excuse?

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  B Dike wrote:
> It's not beautiful if the expansion of palm oil production for biodiesel is 
> one of the leading causes of rainforest destruction in south-east Asia.
> 

Before biodiesel, it was beef. If biodiesel goes away, it'll be 
something else. I think the driving force here isn't demand for 
biodiesel, it's the desire to make money. The actual cash crop being 
grown is just a symptom. The really tragic thing is that most of this 
land isn't very fertile, in spite of the lush rainforest growth on it. 
They slash and burn the forest, plant a few seasons' worth of crops, 
then abandon the land because it's used up.

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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1. The diesel engine, which by it's very nature  can be *relatively* easily 
adapted to run on a variety of fuel is a  beautiful thing regardless of how 
that fuel is gotten. Bad fuel  acquisition policy is not the fault of the 
engine.
  
  2. Palm oil production for BioD is NOT a leading cause of the  destruction of 
rainforests. The article clearly said it COULD BE. Sure,  it COULD BE and maybe 
it won't be. That is not something to blame on  diesel engines or even on BioD 
but on the misguided policies of the  corrupt governemnts that allow that to 
happen...and who is doing the  slashing and burning? Dirt poor locals who have 
no better means of  supporting themselves - and latifundistas in co-hoots with 
thier  corrupt govt. To kill bio-fuels because of those very real problems is  
rediculous...it would not solve the underlying problem. Hell, they'd  just go 
back to growing cocoa leaves and making Cocaine.
  
  BioD and VO (new or waste) are not the problem here. What MIGHT be a  problem 
is the actions of greedy men...IF it happens that way. 
  
  Chris

B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:It's  not beautiful if the expansion of palm 
oil production for biodiesel is  one of the leading causes of rainforest 
destruction in south-east Asia.

Christopher McCann   wrote: The beauty (in the truest sense of the word) of the 
diesel  engine is that it can run on LOTS of things. So it is inconsequential  
that bio-fuels from virgin feedstocks could never run every diesel  engine in 
the world. As long as the US govt pays farmers to keep  MILLIONS of acres out 
of production, there is a place for bio-fuels  from virgin feedstocks. Then you 
have WVO, Waste lard, synfuel, and TCP  & C

Re: [MBZ] Green Fuels Would Damage Environment, Critics Charge

[B Dike]

http://www.newscientist.com/article.ns?id=mg18825265.400&feedId=online-news_rss20
 
  New Scientist has a similar article, no overt political leaning.

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Rich Thomas wrote:
> http://www.cnsnews.com/ViewNation.asp?Page=\Nation\archive\200511\NAT20051122a.html
> 

Keep in mind that CNS is a right-wing news site, much like Newsmax. Not 
to say they don't have some merit, but you need mentally apply some 
windage to compensate for their bias.


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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Hans Neureiter wrote:
> Bought a bottle of LUCAS TRANSMISSION FIX ($ 8.00/16 oz), put it down the
> tube and drove the car 50 miles. Not a drip, car sitting all night. Before
> there was a 10" diameter ATF spot on the pavement.
> The stuff is thicker than molassis and slicker than owlshit. It took at
> least 10 minutes to pour down the D/S tube.

The Lucas stuff did NOT work on my 722.3 transmission or most of the 
ones I know about. I saw the front seal on mine - it was in pieces - 
NOTHING could have sealed it. That's what MOST 722.3 transmission seals 
look like when they start leaking I'm told. Since it worked on yours 
(I'm happy for you) that must not have been what was wrong with yours.

I'd like to hear from others that have used it to try to seal a front 
seal leak on a MERCEDES transmission (I have absolutely NO interest in 
other cars or other uses for the stuff).

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Cost to rebuild

[B Dike]

Brian,
   
  I replaced the motor myself in my 82 300CD with a used engine.  It runs 
great.  The motor cost me $600 including shipping plus about $300 investment in 
tools, including an engine crane.  No regrets, actually was a fun project.  
Figure a couple weeks downtime to do in your spare time, but 240 should be 
easier than 300. I'd recommend it if you are mechanically inclined.  Otherwise, 
buy another 240D as there are plenty available.  A shop replacement might be 
hard to justify on economic grounds. 
   
  Good luck,
   
  Bruce

Brian Chase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Allright, I'll admit it: There's no way I'd attempt to rebuild my engine, so
I'm either putting in a used one, or having it rebuilt. (talking about my 83
240D with siezed engine)

So let me ask: Who can tell me what I might get charged to have this done. I
know nobody can say with accuracy, but I'm just asking for input based on
your experiences, list. Let's assume it needs a complete rebuild.

And thanks for the tip about a good indie in Phoenix, Chuck, and others. He 
sounded like a real good guy - friendly and an enthusiast. But I have not 
yet called him back to ask him
what he might charge for a rebuild, because at the time I spoke to him, my 
intentions were
to put in a used engine. So what do you guys/gals think?

Brian
83 240D

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cost to rebuild
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Good questions:

In my mind the starter was eliminated as culprit because I put in a new 
(rebuilt) one and it did the same thing. Although I know that doesn't 
logically eliminate it for sure. This stuff confuses me frankly.

And yes, we tried to bar over the engine from the crankshaft bolt. It 
shouldn't take that much force to turn it, right? An average guy should be 
able to turn it without straining too much, correct?

Brian
83 240D

>From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cost to rebuild
>Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 14:03:23 -0500
>
>someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > As to the lockup happening suddenly: It was more gradual, in that the
> > starter would just run slowly, then it got slower as we kept trying to 
>start
> > it, and now we get nothing but a click. Yes, the batt., starter, ground
> > strap were eliminated as culprits.
>
>Sorry, but I don't recall all the specifics of what got done and what did
>not, before. If only to play devil's advocate, I have to ask:
>
>1. How was the starter eliminated?
>2. Has anyone tried to turn the engine by hand?
>
>Mac
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 123 rubber car parts

[B Dike]

Tires
  Wiper blades
  Windshield and rear window seals
  Radio antenna grommet
  Breather hoses
  Turbo oil return line seal

Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  help me compile a list of the rubber 
suspension/hoses/belts/etc parts that  
will probably need replacing when they deteriorate in a 123.  I'm curious  
to see what this list would look like.

Radiator hoses
belts
shock mounts
engine shock mounts
engine mounts
transmission mount
differential mount
vacuum hose, T's, & X's
brake hoses
oil cooler hoses
transmission cooler hoses
fuel lines (engine and fuel tank)
injector return line
subframe mounts
sway bar bushing mounts


help me out here, what am I missing?


-- 
Luther  KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
'82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] oil level (or lack of)
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John,

I don't know about making this a responsibility of the 13 year old,  
but, as a long time subscriber to this list, I grant you absolution  
for your "oversight"

Take care...  but don't let it happen again!   :>)

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
On Nov 18, 2005, at 3:40 PM, John M McIntosh wrote:

> After breakfast this morning, an errand, a work related conference
> call,  I was out to fill the washer fluid container in the S since it
> was complaining. Mmm I wonder the 83 (and the S) are both within 1k
> Km here of needing service (aka oil change), when DID I (or anyone)
> look at the oil last in the 83. I know it usually burns < 2 q over
> 5000 miles, I can't recall adding any? MMm that 83 doesn't have an
> oil level idiot light, one needs to be a bit more careful here and
> ensure it's checked weekly...
>
> Mmm, check oil, just a smidge on lowest bottom of dip stick, sigh...
> Mutter about wife and kids... However I'll get sheepish looks and
> yells of "that's your responsibility Dad" if I say anything. Mmm I
> wonder if I can add this reponsiblity to the 13 year old's weekly
> chores...
>
> So if you add one liter that brings you up to the lowest notch on the
> dipstick, I'd rather not know that.
>
> Technically that benz sits at less than half way between notches or
> at the lowest notch. Any higher and the oil gets consumed.
> Ok, let's add another 1/2 liter for luck.
>
> PS the S I think this time will be converted to 5w40 delvac versus
> 0w40 just to lessen the clutter in the garage.  & yes I *usually*
> check the oil and tire pressures weekly but I've been distracted.
>
> John
> 1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1990 300TDt  154k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1993 500SEL 169k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] engine hibernation wakeup

[B Dike]

Luther,
  
  Here's what I would do:  First I would remove the valve cover and  drip oil 
over all the cams and rocker arms.  I read this in a MB  manual somewhere. Then 
I would run the starter with the GP relay  disconnected until the oil pressure 
needle started to rise. Then I  would fire it up and crack open a cold one when 
it settled down to a  smooth idle.
  
  Bruce

Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at 
least 10 years, and probably hasn't  
been run in as long.  I want to make an attempt to start it this weekend.   
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal.  The  
coolant shows no sign of contamination and the oil level is right between  
the add and max lines.  What suggestions do ya'll have to do a wake-up??   
TIA all,


--
Luther  KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
'82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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  http://makeashorterlink.com/?U2F726F2C


Beware, Sarah Connor!
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

[MBZ] Speaking of my 85

[B Dike]

We took the 85 300CD to the San Juans for the weekend, perfect time to visit, 
no traffic, wonderful scenery, no ferry wait, etc.  Car ran great there and 
back at XX MPH with a fresh M1 change and B50.  On the return trip I settled 
back in the drivers seat and twiddled the cruise control which has been dormant 
for a while now.  Heavens to Betsie, it worked!  Turn up the Lionel Richie and 
Duran Duran!
   


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
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X-List-Received-Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 21:27:14 -

  
There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER 
experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were 
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a 
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings.

had the clunk post sway bar bushing replacement, isolated the ball joints with 
water test, changed the ball joints, no more clunk.

Just my experience, YMMV

CHris

  

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  John Peterson wrote:
> Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
> I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
> and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
> new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
> rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
> but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
> coming from

There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER 
experienced "clunks on bumps at low speeds" when the ball joints were 
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a 
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball 
joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to 
seem "nervous" requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway 
speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at 
least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST 
200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year). 
Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even 
the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I 
have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on 
them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 124s.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300S

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[B Dike]

Todd,
   
  Where are you located?  If you are in the Seattle area, you and I could fix 
every one of these things in an afternoon after a modest parts order to Rusty 
and a quick stop at the Benz Friendz used parts warehouse.  You can fix the odo 
with Crazy Glue - I did 2 of them myself.
   
  BTW, I think the 85 300CD is the pinnacle of Mercedes diesel production, but 
nobody should expect any vehicle of that vintage to be 'daily driver ready',  I 
don't car how much it cost or who the PO was and what he did.  Rubber rots.  
Bulbs burn out.  Metal wears. Plastic decays.  Lube drys.  Stuff breaks. Things 
on a 20 year old car will need regular fixing, period.  And I mean fixing, not 
maintainence.  My 85 is a cream puff but requires regular TLC to keep it ready 
for the wife to drive.  The nice thing is that the 123s are designed with 
obsessive Teutonic precision to be fixed, not throwaway like an old Ford.  
Enjoy fixing it or get rid of it.
   
  Regarding price, it is raining Benz diesels out here in Seattle.  Plenty of 
great 123s and 115s to be had for under $1000 with no rust, but typically all 
carboned up with valves out of adjustment, weak vacuum, bad thermostats, etc, 
but nothing that the folks on this list couldn't tell you how to fix yourself.
   
  Cheers, 
   
  Bruce
  
"Smith, Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Hello,

I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert 
advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions. About a month 
ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily 
driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel. Unfortunately, neither of 
these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my 
biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during 
the sale.

This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds 
that I have in it. My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or 
believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles. I 
want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision. Yes, I know that 
this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being 
burned and this is the only way to break the cycle. The pictures are available 
at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002

The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially 
considering its age. There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers over 
the bumpers still seem good. It may appear to have rust along the trunk lid but 
that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking at the 
pictures. I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm that 
statement. The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the 
passenger's door. There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that 
is sprung from the trim.

The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the 
driver's seat. There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat 
that looks like it needs some attention. I believe that the interior pictures 
cover the interior pretty well. If anyone needs a better picture or can make a 
suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to 
ask me.

Good points:

1) Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate speeds from 
Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia.
2) Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception.
3) Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C.
4) Front windows work howbeit slowly. The rear power windows do not retract, PO 
says that switches are bad but motors are good. (Motor condition not verified)
5) Rides pretty good for a car of its age.
6) My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good but both need 
attention.
7) It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run for a while 
longer.
8) Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread.

Bad points:

1) Serious vacuum issues: Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission 
shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, Cruise Control works but will not 
hold speed for long.
2) Extremely poor acceleration: This is my first diesel and first MB, so this 
might be user error. When at a light, I have to almost stand on the accelerator 
to get it to crawl through a light. It takes several car lengths to accelerator 
to 20MPH and then it seems to run better. It will reach 70+ MPH but it 
doesn't't like to hold it. Letting off the accelerator seems to have a large 
drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately.
3) Power steering is inoperable. PO indicates that power steering pump leaks 
profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley. I have taken pictures of belt 
and pulley and they are with the car but not installed.
4) Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work. The Title says 248K miles but 
the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 mi

Re: [MBZ] DIY toe in adjustment

[B Dike]

Mike,
  
  Yes, in fact you can adjust toe-in yourself much more accurately than  any 
shop equipment.  It requires a little knowledge of basic  trigonometry but it 
works every time and is very simple.  Simply  drive to a lonely flat section of 
road where you can park the car on  the edge of the road and see at least a 
quarter mile or so ahead.   Straighten the wheels.  Kneel down and sight along 
the outer edges  of the left front tire near the center of the hub and note the 
exact  point in the distance that it points at.  Do the same for the  right 
front tire.  If they point at the exact same distant object,  then the toe is 
basically zero minus a very small amount.  If the  object is a quarter mile 
away, then the toe is minus 1/4 degree.   To get minus one degree of toe, the 
right tire should point about 17  feet left of the left tire aimpoint at 1/4 
mile.   Double the  offset if your target is a half-mile away.  I find the 
procedure  to be very repeatable and extremely accurate.  People
 driving by  will look at you funny but no shop equipment will do as well.  And 
 it's actually kind of fun. You will eventually learn the precise toe  that you 
car needs as you examine tire wear pattern and handling.Bear in mind that 
camber and caster must be adjusted differently  and any changes will affect toe.
  
  When you change out the tie rods make sure you count the turns of all  the 
couplings to get things started out approximately right.   Don't pull the 
steering wheel to straighten it out.  Just  add/subtract a turn or two to each 
tie rod end accordingly.  Good  luck,
  
  Bruce

Mike Piles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Hello all

I am getting ready to change the tie rod and center link on my 1985 300SD.
Is there a way I can properly adjust the toe in my self?  Also my steering
wheel is not properly centered.  If I pull the centering plug on the gear
box and center the gear box  should the steering wheel then be centered
unless someone really screwed something up?

Thanks
Mike Piles



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I wouldn't say there is something VERY wrong if you are getting at least 12 
> volts. Sure it could be weak, but I wouldn't say VERY wrong with just 12 
> volts. Yea maybe a weak diode or voltage regulator, but 12 volts is not bad. 
> As I mentioned before its not JUST volts you need its amps too and without 
> enough to allow the battery to do a complete recovery during a charging cycle 
> then I would say there is something very wrong 

You will NOT charge a 12.6 V battery with 12 V from the alternator. It 
takes something above 13. If you're not getting 13.5 V from a Bosch 
alternator at low load at idle, SOMETHING isn't working as it should work!

Marshall
-- 
 

Re: [MBZ] Deux Chevaux

[B Dike]

I drove a 2CV to school as a kid.  Great mileage but
not good in snow because of low clearance and the pan
below the engine would ride up over the snow and leave
the wheels high and dry.  But a couple kids could lift
the car up and move it.  The door windows were hinged
and opened by flipping them up.  If you closed the
door shut by pulling on the window opening, the window
would  slam shut on your fingers and darn near break
them! 

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Speaking of 2CVs, a few weeks ago I saw a 2CV
> Charleston (I think) bounding 
> along here in Seattle. New condition, almost. Rara
> avis.
> 
> RLE
> ___



Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'



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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[B Dike]

I modified my setup and bought some 3/4" OD rubber coolant tubing and made an 
adapter to fit it into the dipstick tube.  No problem with hot oil.  Still 
getting oil spray inside the ShopVac but working well otherwise.
 
Bruce

Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
An interesting innovation, but I think that would drive the cost up to 
maybe $5, which might be worth it to get hot oil (though you might need 
a metal container to catch it in.

I understand too that the inserted tube does not really need to go down 
into the drain pan as the dipstick tube ends down there, so you really 
only need to get it in the wider part at the top, and seal it for the 
vac to work. That is about 5/8" ID I think.

--R

Loren Faeth wrote:

>I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID PP 
>hose. I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the 
>pan. It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the job 
>nicely. Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.
>
>At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:
> 
>
>>I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
>>oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!). But hey, it accomplished
>>the task, right?
>>
>>--R
>>
>>B Dike wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>>Hot oil causes drain line to collapse. Shop Vac hose
>>>collapses. Oil sprays into ShopVac canister. Oil in
>>>shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.
>>>
>>>BUT
>>>
>>>Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
>>>Around here we call this success.
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>Bruce
>>>
>>>Bruce
>>>82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
>>>85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
>>>75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
>>>77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>__
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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>___
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>>
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>> 
>>
>
>
>___
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>
>
> 
>
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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[MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[B Dike]

Hot oil causes drain line to collapse.  Shop Vac hose
collapses.  Oil sprays into ShopVac canister.  Oil in
shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.  

BUT

Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
Around here we call this success.

Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] lack of smoke

[B Dike]

Because of the Fundamental Law of Diesels:  Power = Noise X Smoke
 
B.  ;-)

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
BillR wrote:
> For you guys who know this stuff go easy on me - it's my first day. My
> 'new' engine was quite a concern to me as is smoked so much on startup - a
> bluish smoke that lasted about a mile. When my local indy did the repairs
> it needed on vacuum hoses and misplaced wires, including a leaking injector,
> it now does not seem to smoke at all. First start this morning and
> yesterday I could not see any but the faintest hint of smoke when I looked
> closely at the exhaust. Would a leaking injector make that much difference?
> I have started to 'drive it like I stole it' and it is running and shifting
> better. Reminds me why I love these cars.

Not sure what your problem is! Why do you WANT smoke?

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology 1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: [MBZ] Delvac 1 price
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Just bought a case (4 x 1 gallon) of Delvac 1 at the local Mobil 
distributor. The last time I bought a case was about 10 months ago. New 
price is $122/case. That's $40 higher than 10 months ago and about 
$7/quart.

What's the going rate at Wal-mart?


Ron Dwelle

Re: [MBZ] ebay photography of the week award goes to...

[B Dike]

My teens want me to get a W116.  They think it is an awesome car.

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300SD_W0QQitemZ4586667121QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 fuses
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Which would be  the best? the original Mb fuses are with  soft tinned ends
to
get a positive contact/bite.
I  had  erratic operation of one high beam   after   some time had lapsed
but .Ok when cold.
replacement of the fuse cured that. Under the magnifier I could see the ends
had eroded away,  with quite a bit of pitting on one side.
earlier on  I had checked the brown ground wires and found all tight with
clean contacts.
mak

> Trampas wrote:
> > Rotate and clean fuses
>
> NO - replace any fuse older than 10 years old - if you don't know how
> old they are - REPLACE them.
>

Re: [MBZ] Diesel in the news again - finally!

[B Dike]

"Clatter and spew smoke"??   They had better not be talking about our cars!
 
OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Fuel economy story in the NYT -- --


Mileage will be better if you choose a smaller, four-cylinder engine
rather than the more powerful, heavier and thirstier V-6 or V-8
version. And the savings may be even greater if you choose a diesel
engine.

"Chemically, diesel fuel contains 10 percent more energy and diesel
engines are 30 percent more efficient than regular gas engines," said
David Greene, a fellow at the National Transportation Research Center,
which is affiliated with the Department of Energy and based in Oak
Ridge, Tenn. So even if diesel prices spike during the winter or when
hurricanes shut down refineries, you are likely to come out ahead.

The latest diesel engines, like the ones in the Volkswagen Golf TDI
and Jetta TDI, don't clatter or spew smoke the way diesel engines did
in years past. (New diesel-powered cars are not available in some
states, including New York and California, because of emissions
regulations.)


http://tinyurl.com/cym3b




Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] motor oil as a diesel fuel
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What kind of cans of oil are they?  I have a friend who collects them and 
may be interested if they are the old ones.  Thanks, Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] motor oil as a diesel fuel


> Jerry,
>
> Cans of motor oil are a very collectible item for some folks.  Post
> them on eBay and see if they get you a bunch of $$$ to put toward some
> mobil 1
>
> On Monday, October 31, 2005, at 03:43 PM, Jerry Herrman wrote:
>
>> Can I use up the leftover sealed cans of motor oil I have around by
>> putting them in my diesel fuel tank?
>>
>> Anyone tried this?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Jerry H.
>> 240D
>> 228,000 miles
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] W123 outer tie rods -- any experience on here?

[B Dike]

Rusty will ship you the exact set of tie rods you need
for your car and they will fit perfectly and cost less
than NAPA.  In fact, if you are clueless and stubborn
enough to try to order the wrong tierod combination,
he will get more stubborn and insist that you order
the correct tierods that will turn out in the end to
be precisely right and lower cost. How I know this,
don't ask...just do as he says...

Bruce

--- Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Mon, Oct 31, 2005 at 02:18:52AM +, LT Don
> wrote:
> > Bought a set of outer tie rods for my '77 240D.
> When we tried to install
> > them yesterday afternoon we found that they are
> too fat. The box says they
> > are 16mm size. It was really close so I am
> thinking that maybe the size
> > should be 15mm? We got them at NAPA.
> 
> In the case of the powerchoke, the tie rods
> themselves were not 
> interchangeable from left to right. Depending on how
> much part they sold you,
> that is a possibility. 
> 
> > Did NAPA just blow it on the parts (we double
> checked the number and that is
> > what they show for my vehicle) or are there
> different diameter screws
> > available? I don't think it is a 1977/1978 sort of
> error, because the NAPA
> > site showed the same part for both years.
> 
> Interesting, that would have been my first guess. It
> could be that NAPA
> blew it, it could be just an error in their books. I
> had a problem with a
> NAPA drag link on the powerchoke - sheared the bolt
> clean off the ball joint
> where it meets the pitman arm, fortunately right in
> front of the house. I 
> got another one from them, and needless to say, have
> been watching it like a
> hawk since. I'm considering carrying a spare ball
> joint for it for when I
> go to the desert next month. NOT a place you want to
> lose steering.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'



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Re: [MBZ] charging problem, 560SEL

[B Dike]

The power for the alternator field coils travels
through the dash charging light bulb filament.  A
burned out bulb will disable the alternator.  In the
case of my 77 240D, when I replaced the bulb, some
dash lights came back on, and others turned off!

Bruce

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> so if the charging light is burned out it could
> cause the alternator to 
> not work right which would cause the other dash
> lights to not come on?
> 
> Tom Hargrave wrote:
> 
> > Kaleb,
> > 
> > The initial alternator excite current comes
> through the charge light and if
> > the light does not come on then your charging
> circiuit will never work
> > right. Some alternators will self start most of
> the time and I suspect that
> > the alternator you installed is one of these.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Tom Hargrave
> > 256-656-1924
> > www.kegkits.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> > Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 1:50 AM
> > To: Mercedes mailing list
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] charging problem, 560SEL
> > 
> > 
> > Well I ended up swapping out the alternator and
> that solved the charging
> > problem but my lights are still not coming on. 
> They are not burned out
> > because after the engine was running turned on
> headlights to see if the
> > light out indicator came on(have a headlight out)
> which it did.  What is
> > it that is supposed to make all the lights come on
> before startup?
> > 
> > Tom Hargrave wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >>The battery light should come on and if not, your
> issue might be soemthing
> >>as simple as a burned out charge (battery) bulb.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Tom Hargrave
> >>256-656-1924
> >>www.kegkits.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>-Original Message-
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> >>Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 1:14 PM
> >>To: Mercedes mailing list
> >>Subject: [MBZ] charging problem, 560SEL
> >>
> >>
> >>Messing with my 560 again today.  Basically its
> not charging at all.
> >>Put a different voltage regulator on it from
> another alternator I had
> >>laying around and it made no difference.  Either
> both were bad(the
> >>replacement regulator had longer brushes) or
> something else is my
> >>problem.  I guess I will probably just have to
> swap out the whole
> >>alternator.  I did notice however that when the
> key is turned on, and
> >>before the engine is started, the only lights that
> come on in the
> >>cluster is the o2 light and the SRS light.  None
> of the others, oil
> >>level, coolant level, battery etc come on.  Im not
> sure exactly what the
> >>deal is with that.  If the alternator was bad
> would it cause these
> >>lights to not come on?  Or is there some other
> problem that doesnt allow
> >>the lights to come on and also keeps alternator
> from charging?  Seems I
> >>heard somewhere that if the battery light does not
> come on either
> >>because its burned out or whatever the alternator
> will not charge.
> >>
> >>Thanks
> >>--
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >>  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
> 240D,
> >>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> >>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> >>
> >>___
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >>
> >>___
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
> 240D,
> >   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> > Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-emai

Re: [MBZ] 1981 240D Alternator Job

[B Dike]

Tom,

You can do it from above but ramps make it easier. 
Just a couple of long bolts and spacers.  Jiggle it
around to get both bolts back in.

Bruce  

--- Tom Scordato <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Has anyone changed out an alternator on a 1981 240D?
> 
> Need some advise or some war stories on how to do
> it.  Can it be done with 
> out lifting the car?
> Please advise on a web link or a procedure.  Thanks
> gang.
> 
> Regards Tom Scordato



Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
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Re: [MBZ] Is this bad for your engine?

[B Dike]

In addition to being superb daily drivers, MB diesels 
are an excellent car for teens...

--- "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> wow Bruce, I see you are a family of benz owners.
> 
> On 10/27/05, B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > It may not be quite as bad as it looks. It will
> > certainly lengthen the time required to come up to
> > operating temp, which will increase engine wear;
> the
> > question is how much. On the other hand, it may
> well
> > reduce, or eliminate, as he claims, overtemp
> episodes
> > by increasing the flow rate through the thermostat
> > apparatus when the bypass valve is closed. If the
> > temperature stabilization is as good as stated,
> then
> > its usefulness would depend on how much longer it
> > takes to reach operating temp. If it is only a
> extra
> > minute or two then it is worth a try. If it takes
> > much longer than that, then I would be concerned
> about
> > wear issues. The delay effect may not be as bad as
> it
> > might seem because flow resistance laws dictate
> that,
> > even with the holes, most of the coolant will
> still
> > circulate through the bypass when cold instead of
> the
> > radiator.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > --- "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
>
http://dieselgiant.com/thermostatreplacementandmodif.htm
> > >
> > > --
> > > Gabriel Soto
> > > Southern California
> > > 1987 300D 230K=-
> > >
> >
> > Bruce
> > 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> > 85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
> > 75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
> > 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> >
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Gabriel Soto
> Southern California
> 1987 300D 230K=-
> ___
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Bruce
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Re: [MBZ] Is this bad for your engine?

[B Dike]

It may not be quite as bad as it looks.  It will
certainly lengthen the time required to come up to
operating temp, which will increase engine wear; the
question is how much.  On the other hand, it may well
reduce, or eliminate, as he claims, overtemp episodes
by increasing the flow rate through the thermostat
apparatus when the bypass valve is closed.  If the
temperature stabilization is as good as stated, then
its usefulness would depend on how much longer it
takes to reach operating temp.  If it is only a extra
minute or two then it is worth a try. If it  takes
much longer than that, then I would be concerned about
wear issues. The delay effect may not be as bad as it
might seem because flow resistance laws dictate that,
even with the holes, most of the coolant will still
circulate through the bypass when cold instead of the
radiator.

Bruce

--- "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
http://dieselgiant.com/thermostatreplacementandmodif.htm
> 
> --
> Gabriel Soto
> Southern California
> 1987 300D 230K=-
>

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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[MBZ] Repost: 300CD Evaporator Drain Hoses?

[B Dike]

The list is acting strange again (postings dated one
day ahead in the future?)...didn't know if this got
posted...

--- B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The 85 300CD is fogging up inside again.  The
> evaporator drain hoses may be clogged.  Would
> someone
> be so kind as to remind me where they are routed and
> where they exit?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
> 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
> 
> 
>   
>   
> __ 
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> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'



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[MBZ] 300CD Evaporator Drain Hoses?

[B Dike]

The 85 300CD is fogging up inside again.  The
evaporator drain hoses may be clogged.  Would someone
be so kind as to remind me where they are routed and
where they exit?

Thanks,

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil section at Costco

[B Dike]

Mike,

Pimental's energy balance figures showed that
producing biodiesel with current technology from
oilseeds required more BTUs than the biodiesel
yielded. If a gallon of biodiesel requires more than a
gallon of fuel to produce, it's a bad idea regardless
of crop subsidies and farming incentives.  In my
unschooled opinion, his estimates of production
efficiency seemed conservative, especially as the
technology improves. Even so, the most optimistic
analyst would have to admit that the case for oilseed
biodiesel is not a slam dunk from an energy yield
standpoint.  

Some sources state that palm oil is a far better
feedstock from an energy balance standpoint, but I
don't have any figures to support that. 

If anyone wants the details on Pimental's analysis, I
will post it to the biodiesel list.

Bruce  

--- Mike Canfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> BUT, Pimental's research fails to consider actually
> requiring the farmers to 
> produce an oil producing crop on the land they are
> being PAID NOT TO USE. 
> Get rid of the crop subsidies and replace them with
> a purchasing plan for 
> rapseed or soybeans and THEN see if it is
> economically feasible.
> 
> Mike
> - Original Message - 
> From: "B Dike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 2:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil
> section at Costco
> 
> 
> > Curt,
> >
> > The vegoil production data came from David
> Pimental, a
> > prominent agricultural researcher from Cornell
> Univ.
> > He has done extensive studies of oilseed
> production
> > and has concluded that vegoil fuel is both
> > economically and ecologically unsustainable.  The
> > apparent low price of veg oil is a result of
> market
> > distortions caused by government crop subsidies,
> both
> > in the US and abroad.  David is a strong advocate
> of
> > WVO biodiesel and synfuels from coal.  IIRC coal
> has a
> > 50 percent yield of diesel grade synfuel, and the
> US
> > has enormous coal reserves.  Coal synfuel is also
> much
> > cleaner burning than petro diesel.  We need to
> start
> > looking into synfuels.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > --- Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Hi Bruce,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Actually I've thought about this some and to my
> way
> >> of thinking it wouldn't take much to push people
> off
> >> the svo, its that old supply and demand argument.
> >> When enough people start taking Chris and his
> pal's
> >> route one of two things will happen (or maybe a
> >> slight occurance of both);
> >>
> >> #1. The price of VO will rise to the point where
> >> diesel is cheaper
> >>
> >> and/or
> >>
> >> #2. The price of diesel will fall to the point
> where
> >> its cheaper than svo
> >>
> >> In either case once diesel is cheaper many of the
> >> people buying svo will switch back to diesel or
> work
> >> harder on their wvo options. Either way I can't
> see
> >> the number of people buying svo in bulk at Costco
> >> having any impact on the worldwide svo supply...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Where did you get your data about how much svo
> the
> >> country could produce?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> The one good thing I could possibly see happening
> is
> >> some upward pressure on the price of svo could
> send
> >> some money back to farmers...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -Curt
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 16:03:29 -0700 (PDT)
> >> From: B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil
> >> section at Costco
> >> today
> >> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Message-ID:
> >>
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >>
> >> Biovolks,
> >>
> >> Speaking as an ardent WVO biodiesel advocate,
> >> hearing
> >> about large scale vegoil use for diesel fuel
> >> troubles
> >> me.  Vegoil is intended first and foremost for
> food,
> >> not vehicle fuel.  If the entire available
> cropland
> >> in
> >> the US were converted to vegoil production, it
> would
> >> satisfy less than one-sixth of

Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil section at Costco

[B Dike]

Curt,

The vegoil production data came from David Pimental, a
prominent agricultural researcher from Cornell Univ.
He has done extensive studies of oilseed production
and has concluded that vegoil fuel is both
economically and ecologically unsustainable.  The
apparent low price of veg oil is a result of market
distortions caused by government crop subsidies, both
in the US and abroad.  David is a strong advocate of
WVO biodiesel and synfuels from coal.  IIRC coal has a
50 percent yield of diesel grade synfuel, and the US
has enormous coal reserves.  Coal synfuel is also much
cleaner burning than petro diesel.  We need to start
looking into synfuels.

Bruce

--- Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> Hi Bruce,
> 
>  
> 
> Actually I've thought about this some and to my way
> of thinking it wouldn't take much to push people off
> the svo, its that old supply and demand argument.
> When enough people start taking Chris and his pal's
> route one of two things will happen (or maybe a
> slight occurance of both);
> 
> #1. The price of VO will rise to the point where
> diesel is cheaper
> 
> and/or
> 
> #2. The price of diesel will fall to the point where
> its cheaper than svo
> 
> In either case once diesel is cheaper many of the
> people buying svo will switch back to diesel or work
> harder on their wvo options. Either way I can't see
> the number of people buying svo in bulk at Costco
> having any impact on the worldwide svo supply...
> 
>  
> 
> Where did you get your data about how much svo the
> country could produce?
> 
>  
> 
> The one good thing I could possibly see happening is
> some upward pressure on the price of svo could send
> some money back to farmers...
> 
>  
> 
> -Curt
> 
>  
> 
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 16:03:29 -0700 (PDT)
> From: B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil
> section at Costco
>   today
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> Biovolks,
> 
> Speaking as an ardent WVO biodiesel advocate,
> hearing
> about large scale vegoil use for diesel fuel
> troubles
> me.  Vegoil is intended first and foremost for food,
> not vehicle fuel.  If the entire available cropland
> in
> the US were converted to vegoil production, it would
> satisfy less than one-sixth of the fuel needs of the
> commercial truck fleet.  Extensive retail purchasing
> of cooking oil for fuel will inevitably lead to an
> ugly backlash from government officials. Do we want
> the fuel doors on our cars to have a government seal
> to be opened only by a licensed dealer?  If we think
> the government wields a heavy hand on occasion, just
> wait until people start messing with the nation's
> food
> supply.  Prudence dictates that we should hunt down
> more WVO sources and leave the cooking oil alone.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bruce  [assumes defensive crouch]
> 
>   
> -
>  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in
> one click.  
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'



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Re: [MBZ] Just want to get something straight about SVO

[B Dike]

Don,

A modest amount of SVO will not harm your car but long
term SVO use can cause severe engine damage due to
combustion deposits and byproducts including epoxies,
corrosives, and carbon compounds.  These deposits
affect injector spray patterns, piston rings, and
other mechanical components.  Biodiesel does not have
this problem because the glycerines and sugars that
create combustion deposits are removed by
transesterification.

Bruce

--- Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Dieselers, 
> 
>  
> 
> I have been putting B100 in my car at 5 gallon
> intervals topped of with
> #2 Diesel as a tonic for my car. I understand that
> it acts as a solvent
> and cleans out the whole fuel system.  I do notice
> that when I get the
> B100 (before I fill up with #2) and I drive around
> with just the B100
> that my car (90 300D 2.5) puts out dramatically less
> smoke (i.e.
> basically none or very little at wide open
> throttle). I do thing it
> seems to run quieter.  
> 
>  
> 
> I feel better about using this alternative fuel and
> doing my part to
> reduce our fossil fuel consumption (if it actually
> does reduce it). 
> 
>  
> 
> Here's my question: 
> 
>  
> 
> At any rate, I know that biodiesel is simply soy oil
> that has been
> "transestrified"  (I am sure that is not the exact
> term or its
> spelling).  What has to be done to plain old soy oil
> to use it in my
> car?  Can I just buy it at CostCo/Sam's and dump it
> into my tank and the
> rate of about 1 part oil to two parts #2 diesel.  Do
> I have to do
> anything else?  B100 has had the water removed,
> correct?  Do I have to
> do that with food grade soy oil?  
> 
>  
> 
> Donald H. Snook
> 
> McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 
> 
> 300 West Douglas
> 
> P.O. Box 207
> 
> Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
> 
> Tel. (316) 263-5851
> 
>


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] dieselvolk swarm soybean oil section at Costco today

[B Dike]

Biovolks,

Speaking as an ardent WVO biodiesel advocate, hearing
about large scale vegoil use for diesel fuel troubles
me.  Vegoil is intended first and foremost for food,
not vehicle fuel.  If the entire available cropland in
the US were converted to vegoil production, it would
satisfy less than one-sixth of the fuel needs of the
commercial truck fleet.  Extensive retail purchasing
of cooking oil for fuel will inevitably lead to an
ugly backlash from government officials. Do we want
the fuel doors on our cars to have a government seal
to be opened only by a licensed dealer?  If we think
the government wields a heavy hand on occasion, just
wait until people start messing with the nation's food
supply.  Prudence dictates that we should hunt down
more WVO sources and leave the cooking oil alone.

Cheers,

Bruce  [assumes defensive crouch]

--- Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Had lunch at Costco with my friend Jim, who is
> taking
> a trip this weekend. After downing 2 polish
> sausages,
> we went to my favorite aisle (#29) to get some
> soybean
> oil for him as my filter system is still not up to
> par
> yet (Costco oil is still substantially cheaper than
> D2
> here)...there were three guys already there
> purchaing
> oil for their greasel kit. They had gone 800 miles
> on
> their own filtered WVO and figured new VO at Costco
> was better than the pump. BTW, they were driving a
> VW
> pickup.
> 
> Hasta la Revolucion!
> 
> 
> 
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City,
> Missouri
> -1987 300TD, 150K miles, "Rotkäppchen" (Little Red
> Riding Hood)
> -1985 300SD, 209K miles, "Wulf"
>
(http://www.pictureblogger.com/My-1985-Mercedes-Benz-300SD)
> -1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen
> Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen = Alternative Fuel Test
> Vehicle) running
> WVO/WMO/LO/CO/WATF/WGL/WBF/DA/MS/lard/gas/kero/D2
> mix (do not attempt this unless you are willing to
> sacrifice your IP, injectors, pre-chambers, etc.)
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, snow
> blower, "One Banger"



Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'



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Re: [MBZ] Stinkin' Vacuum Pump

[B Dike]

Bob,

It sounds like the one or both check valves have been
flipped around or failed.  One admits air in from the
brake booster, the other exits it out to the air
cleaner.  Easy to test...if you don't mind a little
taste of M1...

Cheers,

Bruce

--- Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Okay. boys...this vacuum pump deal is getting odd.
> All the other failures I've ever experienced has had
> oil spewing into the 
> air cleaner housing. This failure is different.
> The car will not shut off (I've checked the shutoff
> valve SAT...it holds 
> vacuum like mad). There is NO oil getting into the
> air cleaner housing. The 
> cruise still works. The HVAC is no wierder than
> usual. But there seems to be 
> oil getting into the vacuum lines where oil hasn't
> been before.
> When the main check valves in the vacuum pump fail,
> what happens?
> Any ideas.
> 
> Bob Rentfro (if the hood release cable fails, I
> ain't goin' nowhere)
> '77 300D 141K
> Litchfield Park, AZ 
> 
> 
> ___
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Bruce
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Re: [MBZ] Stinkin' Vacuum Pump

[B Dike]

Bob,

The torque for the center bolt is 9 Nm or about 6.7
ftlb.

Thanks,
Bruce

--- B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bob,
> 
> It is higher (11 NM?), but I need to check. This nut
> must never come loose.  You have to clean out the
> threaded portion of the cam with brake cleaner and
> let
> it dry, then apply loctite. I will have to get back
> to
> you later today with the numbers.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> --- Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > What is the value for the nut holding the plate
> deal
> > ti the diaphram?
> > BR
> > 
> > > Bruce found: 
> > > 
> > > "Torque for diaphragm cover screws is 2.5 - 4.5
> > Nm" 
> > > 
> > > Thanks...I seem to remember really crunching
> dowm
> > on the other two...
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Bob Rentfro



Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] Stinkin' Vacuum Pump

[B Dike]

Bob,

It is higher (11 NM?), but I need to check. This nut
must never come loose.  You have to clean out the
threaded portion of the cam with brake cleaner and let
it dry, then apply loctite. I will have to get back to
you later today with the numbers.

Bruce

--- Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> What is the value for the nut holding the plate deal
> ti the diaphram?
> BR
> 
> > Bruce found: 
> > 
> > "Torque for diaphragm cover screws is 2.5 - 4.5
> Nm" 
> > 
> > Thanks...I seem to remember really crunching dowm
> on the other two...
> > 
> > 
> > Bob Rentfro
> > '77 300D 141K
> > Litchfield Park, AZ
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> 
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>
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Bruce
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Re: [MBZ] Stinkin' Vacuum Pump

[B Dike]

Bob,

I found the sheet:

Torque for diaphragm cover screws is 2.5 - 4.5 Nm or
22 - 40 inch-pounds, equivalent to 1.8 - 3.3 ft lbs.
It is well below the useful range of typical torque
wrenches.  This is a moderate screwdriver hand torque,
certainly not full strength screwdriver for someone
who is accustomed to hand tools. You really need a
inch pound torque wrench if you want to measure it
accurately. 

Bruce  

--- Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bruce noted:
> 
> "The torque values for the diaphragm cover are
> *VERY*
>  small!" 
> 
> Anyone know what the torque value is?
> 
> Herr Doktor?
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 141K
> Litchfield Park, AZ
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 


Bruce
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Re: [MBZ] Stinkin' Vacuum Pump

[B Dike]

Bob,

The torque values for the diaphragm cover are *VERY*
small!  They are listed in inch-pounds, not foot
pounds.  I don't recall the actuals, but it is not
even hard hand-tight.  Too much torque will cause the
cover to act like a cookie cutter on the rubber
diaphragm.  Use the supplied loctite to keep it from
coming apart.

Good Luck,

Bruce

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bob Rentfro wrote:
> > My stinkin' vacuum pump has failed again! This is
> the third one in six months. I rebuild it exactly
> like I am supposed to. The fist two times the
> diaphram has failed (read "ripped"). I'm not sure
> what it is this time...I'm in the midded of a six
> on, one off, six on string of workdays so I cannot
> rip the pig out today. This is starting to hack me
> off. Any ideas?
> 
> Might be worth having someone that has successfully
> rebuilt a few of 
> those pumps to give you lessons! Lots of people have
> successfully 
> rebuilt these pumps. A few people seem to never get
> the hang of it. I 
> don't believe the instructions that I've seen are
> sufficient to prevent 
> ALL of the possible mistakes.
> 
> I have NEVER torn apart or rebuilt a diaphragm pump
> so I can't help!
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth Ph.D.
> Ass't Prof. (ret.)
> Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
> Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
> Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'




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Re: [MBZ] B2 Piston Failure

[B Dike]

Thanks Barry.  Can the B2 band be replaced w/o
dismantling the tranny?  

Bruce

--- Barry Stark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bruce -
> The only quick test is the B2 only controls forward
> gears, it should still
> have reverse. OTOH, he did say it went bang when it
> quit. I'm guessing it
> may more likely be the B2 band that broke, not the
> piston.
> 
> Barry
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of B
> Dike
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 11:13 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] B2 Piston Failure
> 
> 
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/103011770.html
> 
> Daughter needs a car.  It might be worthwhile if
> it's
> only a B2 piston...is there a simple way to check?
> 
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'




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[MBZ] B2 Piston Failure

[B Dike]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/103011770.html

Daughter needs a car.  It might be worthwhile if it's
only a B2 piston...is there a simple way to check?  

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'




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Re: [MBZ] Consumers Reports battery ratings

[B Dike]

I am more concerned with battery life and reliabilty
instead of off-the-shelf CCA.  I have had many high
CCA rated batteries fail suddenly at the most
inconvenient time, leaving me or family members
stranded in awkward or isolated places. I have
gravitated exclusively to DieHards because they last
longer and when they do degrade, it is in a
predictable and manageable way.

Bruce

--- Harry Watkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> November 2005 issue reports that the Wal Mart
> EverStart beats the Diehard.
> 
> Only six of 39 batteries tested met their CCA claims
> and four of those were
> EverStart.
> 
> I didn't know about batteies having a date code so
> you can pick out a fresh
> one.  They state that most batteries have them.
> 
> Interesting read.
> 
> Harry Watkins
> Newton, MS
> 86 SDL Silver
> 85 300D Euro
> 86 SDL Gold
> 81 240D manual trans
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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Re: [MBZ] Field Coil Power

[B Dike]

It worked!  I replaced the bulb and now the alternator
is generating current.  

David, you are a scholar and and a gentleman!

Is this a great list or what?

Thanks,

Bruce

--- David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> B Dike wrote:
> >I tried another alternator for the 77 240D and it
> >doesn't generate current either.  There is no
> magnetic
> >effect around the alternater when the car is
> running
> >making me suspicious that there may not be power to
> >the field coils.  The two big wires have 12V but
> the
> >small blue wire is dead.
> Does your alternator light come on when you turn the
> key on?  I don't 
> know if Mercedeses are wired this way, but on many
> cars, if the 
> alternator light is burned out or there's another
> break in its circuit, 
> the alternator field will NOT energize.
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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Re: [MBZ] Field Coil Power

[B Dike]

Thanks David.  The alternator light is dead.  I will
try another bulb in case that is the problem.

Thanks,

Bruce

--- David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> B Dike wrote:
> >I tried another alternator for the 77 240D and it
> >doesn't generate current either.  There is no
> magnetic
> >effect around the alternater when the car is
> running
> >making me suspicious that there may not be power to
> >the field coils.  The two big wires have 12V but
> the
> >small blue wire is dead.
> Does your alternator light come on when you turn the
> key on?  I don't 
> know if Mercedeses are wired this way, but on many
> cars, if the 
> alternator light is burned out or there's another
> break in its circuit, 
> the alternator field will NOT energize.
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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[MBZ] Field Coil Power

[B Dike]

I tried another alternator for the 77 240D and it
doesn't generate current either.  There is no magnetic
effect around the alternater when the car is running
making me suspicious that there may not be power to
the field coils.  The two big wires have 12V but the
small blue wire is dead. I would hate to buy a new
alternator only to find that the problem is a bad
lead.   Does anyone know which alternator wire is for
the field coil lead?  

TIA 

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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Re: [MBZ] once again between diesels

[B Dike]

We have 2 turbos and and 2 NA diesels, all running
well.  I think I might prefer the NA as simpler, more
drivable, and more maintainable cars for daily
driving.  The increased fuel economy just might be
coloring my opinion.  On the other hand, the turbos
are clear winners for long trips.  

Bruce

--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Once you've tasted the sweetness of a turbo, you
> won't go back -- --
> 
> 
> > This was my 4th MB diesel, all 300 NA cars, not
> sure if I want to move up to
> > a turbo diesel or not.
> > Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon with an empty space in
> the driveway
> >
> 
> 
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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[MBZ] Diodes?

[B Dike]

All,
 
Anyone know of a source for alternator diodes (or rectifiers or whatever they 
are) for a W123 77 240D?   
 
Thanks,
 
Bruce


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 13:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) and the OM603
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Dave,

Thanks for the info and especially for the link. I
think the sender is working...maybe it should have
come on earlier...but it warned me and, indeed, the
oil was low. I usually check oil fairly regularly, so
I hope I don't get lazy and start relying on the
gadget.

Chris

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Chris,
> 
> 1) I'd check it both ways - cold and hot. Either
> way, you don't need
> to add oil until it reaches the MIN mark, or unless
> your level light
> is coming on too early (pessimistic) and you want it
> to stay off. The
> factory procedure is here - note the important part
> is to slowly
> insert the clean dipstick and wait a few seconds
> before pulling it
> back out:
>
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/oil_level_checking.pdf
> 
> 2) The senders usually seem to last a while,
> especially with use of
> synthetics. I changed mine a few years ago (with
> OEM/aftermarket)
> because it was leaking (not at the O-ring seal).
> However, now the
> "new" sender (50kmi old) is VERY pessimistic... will
> trigger the
> low-level light at anything below the 'MAX' mark. I
> bought a new OE
> sender and will install it at next the oil change.
> If this cures the
> problem, I'll be thrilled. For the record, it should
> start  turning
> the light on (intermittently) when the level is near
> MIN, and should
> be on most of the time when the level is at or below
> MIN.
> 
> 3) The level light is supposed to only come on if
> the sender reads
> 'low oil' for 60 seconds. That timer/delay is a
> circuit on the
> oil/fuel/temp gauge pod. If the light comes on
> briefly during hard
> left turns, your delay circuit is bad. The solution
> is a new gauge pod
> ($300?), or buying a used pod from a late 124 (any
> model) and swapping
> the little daughtercard on to your 1987 pod
> (requries soldering). The
> pods are not interchangeable between models, hence
> the need to butcher
> the newer/donor pod. Works great, though.
> 
> :-)
> 
> -dm
> 
> > --
> > Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:51:23 -0400
> > From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) and the
> OM603
> >
> > Mine isn't very accurate. Shows low even when the
> level is right between
> > the add and full marks. Marshall says that
> sometimes Mobil 1 will bring
> > a flaky sender back around after a while. I
> replaced the one in the 300E
> > to get it back into proper order. Probably do the
> same with the 300TD
> > sooner or later.
> >
> > ...Kevin
> > 87 300TD 277k mi
> >
> > Christopher McCann wrote:
> >
> > >Herr Doktor,
> > >
> > >You will recall the BCM is checking Mobil 1 oil
> level
> > >after the car has sat for at least 8 hours
> (cooled
> > >down)

Re: [MBZ] Whistle

[B Dike]

My 85 123 can generate all sorts of weird whistles, screechs and shrieks from 
leaks in the manifold gasket.  Under acceleration the 617 turbo pumps 2 or more 
cubic feet of air per second at 15 psi.  If the manifold gasket leaks even a 
tiny bit, the motor becomes a giant reed pipe organ.  The manifold design 
places great stress on the manifold bolts due to the combined weight of the 
turbo, manifold, exhaust pipe, and other plumbing, not to mention vibration 
etc., so it wants to pull away from the motor and open up the gasket.  That's 
why so many old 617 motors have broken manifold studs or ears.  Tighten the 
bolts or replace the gasket as needed.
 
Bruce

"Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Any of you 124 diesel owners ever had this problem...my car makes a strange
whistling sound (sounds like it's coming from the turbo) at highway speeds
at around half throttle...it goes away if i floor it or back off the gas.

--
Gabriel Soto
Southern California
1987 300D 230K=-
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Subject: [MBZ] Click Click Click
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X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:05:12 -

any 124 diesel owners have this...if you can call it a problem:
 my car idles fine except i hear this CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICKthen i goe=
s
away for a bit then CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK

--
Gabriel Soto
Southern California
1987 300D 230K=3D-

Re: [MBZ] Troubleshooting Help Needed - Solved?

[B Dike]

Yes, the brushes looked fine, just like those in the
picture Marshall posted.

B.

--- "G.E." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> did you pull the VR and make sure it's not just worn
> out brushes? 
> 
> isildur
> 
> On Tue, 27 Sep 2005, B Dike wrote:
> 
> > I think I found the problem.  The alternator isn't
> > generating any current.  The barcode label on it
> says
> > "World Class Remanufacturing".  Thanks all for the
> > help.
> > 
> > Bruce
> > 
> > --- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> > > B Dike wrote:
> > > > All,
> > > > 
> > > > My 77 240D battery is draining every couple
> days. 
> > > It
> > > > occurs with a couple different good batteries,
> so
> > > it's
> > > > either the charging system or a current drain.
>  Is
> > > > there a simple way to check the alternater and
> > > voltage
> > > > regulator?  I only have a small multimeter.
> > > 
> > > If a replacement alternator is required, the
> most
> > > reliable option is a 
> > > GENUINE Bosch rebuild (that's not just a rebuilt
> > > Bosch alternator, but 
> > > one that BOSCH rebuilds) that will come with a 2
> > > year warranty including 
> > > road service.
> > > 
> > > Marshall
> > > -- 
> > > Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to
> unsigned
> > > questions)
> > >"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D
> 2.2
> > > 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
> > > 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
> > >Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member
> > > GWSection
> > > 
> http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > 
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > Bruce
> > 82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
> > 85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
> > 75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
> > 77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'
> > 
> > __
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> > 
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> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'




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Re: [MBZ] Troubleshooting Help Needed - Solved?

[B Dike]

I think I found the problem.  The alternator isn't
generating any current.  The barcode label on it says
"World Class Remanufacturing".  Thanks all for the
help.

Bruce

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> B Dike wrote:
> > All,
> > 
> > My 77 240D battery is draining every couple days. 
> It
> > occurs with a couple different good batteries, so
> it's
> > either the charging system or a current drain.  Is
> > there a simple way to check the alternater and
> voltage
> > regulator?  I only have a small multimeter.
> 
> If a replacement alternator is required, the most
> reliable option is a 
> GENUINE Bosch rebuild (that's not just a rebuilt
> Bosch alternator, but 
> one that BOSCH rebuilds) that will come with a 2
> year warranty including 
> road service.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2
> 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
>Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member
> GWSection
>  http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: [MBZ] Auto tranny 240Ds are slow! - Au Contraire!

[B Dike]

TYPO - The W123 feels heavier than the W115, not vice
versa.

--- B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Gentlemen,
> 
> An auto 240D is not necessarily slow.  Our 75 (W115)
> isn't head-snapping fast, but is easily quick enough
> to maneuver and stay ahead of traffic.  It has a
> great
> crisp motor and tranny.  It seems to be geared low,
> not sure, but it definitely feels nimble and
> responsive.
> 
> On the other hand, the 77 240D (W123, manual) was
> abysmally slow when I got it last year.  It is
> steadily improving with M1 and hard driving but has
> a
> long way to go to catch up with the W115.  I think
> it
> is heavier than the W123, at least it feels that
> way. 
> I drove another W123 240D the other day and it was a
> slug, although the owner crowed about its strong
> motor.  But I know of at least one 240D that isn't
> slow.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> --- Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Glad you came out alive 
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Tom Hargrave
> > 256-656-1924
> > www.kegkits.com
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
> > Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 1:09 AM
> > To: Mercedes mailing list
> > Subject: [MBZ] Auto tranny 240Ds are slow!
> > 
> > Yes, I know, old news to most of you.  But I'd
> never
> > driven one for any
> > significant length of time until my indy lent me
> one
> > for two days while
> > working on my 124.  Now I know what "drive it like
> > you stole it"
> > REALLY means!  It maintained cruising speed just
> > fine on the flat, but it's
> > pretty disconcerting to floor the loud pedal at
> any
> > speed over 50 or so and
> > have basically nothing to speak of happen unless
> you
> > have a few minutes to
> > wait.  I'm impressed with the gumption of people
> who
> > drive these on a
> > regular basis, especially if it's in a place with
> > high-speed cutthroat
> > freeway traffic.
> > 
> > Alex Chamberlain
> > '87 300D
> > 
> > ___
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> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> > 
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> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> 
> 
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
> 77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'
> 
> 
>   
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Re: [MBZ] Auto tranny 240Ds are slow! - Au Contraire!

[B Dike]

Gentlemen,

An auto 240D is not necessarily slow.  Our 75 (W115)
isn't head-snapping fast, but is easily quick enough
to maneuver and stay ahead of traffic.  It has a great
crisp motor and tranny.  It seems to be geared low,
not sure, but it definitely feels nimble and
responsive.

On the other hand, the 77 240D (W123, manual) was
abysmally slow when I got it last year.  It is
steadily improving with M1 and hard driving but has a
long way to go to catch up with the W115.  I think it
is heavier than the W123, at least it feels that way. 
I drove another W123 240D the other day and it was a
slug, although the owner crowed about its strong
motor.  But I know of at least one 240D that isn't
slow.

Bruce

--- Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Glad you came out alive 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
> Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 1:09 AM
> To: Mercedes mailing list
> Subject: [MBZ] Auto tranny 240Ds are slow!
> 
> Yes, I know, old news to most of you.  But I'd never
> driven one for any
> significant length of time until my indy lent me one
> for two days while
> working on my 124.  Now I know what "drive it like
> you stole it"
> REALLY means!  It maintained cruising speed just
> fine on the flat, but it's
> pretty disconcerting to floor the loud pedal at any
> speed over 50 or so and
> have basically nothing to speak of happen unless you
> have a few minutes to
> wait.  I'm impressed with the gumption of people who
> drive these on a
> regular basis, especially if it's in a place with
> high-speed cutthroat
> freeway traffic.
> 
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D
> 
> ___
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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Re: [MBZ] Troubleshooting Help Needed

[B Dike]

That's correct Marshall.  The climate controls are
manual in this car - 77 240D.  

Also, I didn't see any mention in the thread about a
voltage regulator...any way to isolate and test it?

Thanks,

Bruce

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Mitch Haley wrote:
> > Craig McCluskey wrote:
> 
> > If the car has automatic climate control, my bet
> is the servo isn't parking.
> > That fuse may be in an inline holder separate from
> the fuse box.
> 
> I don't believe that the 240D ever came with the
> servo controlled 
> climate control system. We ARE still talking about a
> 123.123  240D 
> aren't we?
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2
> 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
>Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member
> GWSection
>  http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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[MBZ] Troubleshooting Help Needed

[B Dike]

All,

My 77 240D battery is draining every couple days.  It
occurs with a couple different good batteries, so it's
either the charging system or a current drain.  Is
there a simple way to check the alternater and voltage
regulator?  I only have a small multimeter.

Thanks,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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Re: [MBZ] Biodiesel

[B Dike]

I would echo Marshall's remarks on biodiesel price and
quality.  One must exercise prudence and good
judgement  with biodiesel purchasing as one would with
any other expensive product.  My personal experience
is that the price and quality of local petrodiesel
varies even more than biodiesel.  One retailer here
sells petro diesel that runs 10 to 20 cents cheaper
than national brands, but performs as if it were
adulterated with some odious substance that saps power
and generates a steady trail of foul acrid smoke.  So
I avoid it.  Likewise I avoid some of the overpriced
and overhyped biodiesel retailed here.  I use
biodiesel suppliers that maintain consistent quality
and acceptable pricing, but can't claim that this is
available everywhere else.  Caveat emptor.

Bruce

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> David Brodbeck wrote:
> > My car seemed to idle rougher on biodiesel than on
> petrodiesel.  Anyone
> > else seen this?  It could have been just clogged
> filters, I suppose.  I
> > changed the inline filter halfway through, with no
> obvious change, but I
> > didn't get around to changing the main filter
> until I had finished off
> > the tank.
> 
> Biodiesel is a better solvent that conventional
> petrodiesel (everything 
> else being equal). All that needs to happen is for
> freed deposits to 
> clog an injector nozzle, or even for a bit of carbon
> to loosen in a 
> prechamber and the idle and noise can roughen up
> VERY noticeably. If 
> it's cylinder specific you'll need to perform all
> the same diagnostics 
> that you would any time the idle gets rough
> (determine which cylinder, 
> etc). A few full pedal acceleration runs will clean
> up MANY 
> carbon/coking problems. The main filter CAN be
> almost completely clogged 
> without there being ANY evidence of the inline
> filter being discolored 
> or occluded.
> 
> But then there is also the quality and energy
> content of the base petro 
> stock as well as the quality of the bio stock. With
> pure petro diesel, 
> it's very common for the quality to vary greatly.
> Different batches of 
> fuel (all meeting the minimum standards common in
> the US) to deliver 
> economy that can vary over a more than 20% range
> (even more when winter 
> additives are added) and can have a Cetane rating
> (Cetane is unrelated 
> to power but is an indicator of ease of ignition)
> anywhere from 40-50. 
> There is also the quality of the "bio" component.
> While I don't know 
> this for sure, I expect it's far less tightly
> defined and controlled 
> than the petro component.
> 
> My own experience with biodiesel was rather good
> until a few weeks ago. 
> Since then, the biodiesel I have been able to
> purchase has been of 
> marginal quality, delivered poor economy and has
> been expensive to VERY 
> expensive when compared to petrodiesel. I was ALMOST
> a believer. Now my 
> enthusiasm has reverted to skepticism. Until
> Biodiesel of uniform and 
> suitable quality can be reliably supplied at a price
> competitive with 
> available petrodiesel, it will remain nothing more
> than a novelty that 
> some might occasionally use as a fuel system
> "cathartic."
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2
> 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
> 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
>Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member
> GWSection
>  http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
> 
> 
> ___
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> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: [MBZ] Biodiesel

[B Dike]

Donald,

I would start with a tank or two of B25 (25% Bio),
either from the pump if available or estimate it
yourself.  You will get a lot of benefit of bio while
monitoring things.  If your car digests it ok, then
try a partial tank of 100% bio.  Keep an eye out for
black stuff in your prefilter and any signs of fuel
starvation.  Also look for dripping hoses under the
fuel tank.  You will get plenty of warning in case any
problems pop up.  Also, clean any fuel from the paint
after refueling, otherwise it will remove the paint.  

Thanks,

Bruce

--- Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks for sending the link to places that sell
> Biodiesel, Ed.  I think
> I can find the station in Wichita. 
> 
>  
> 
> This question is for anybody - Which blend of
> Biodiesel should I try?
> My car is 1990 300D 2.5 (247K miles).  I don't know
> the difference
> between B20, B100, or whatever the other blends are?
>  Anything I need to
> know when putting this in my car?  Should I be ready
> with new fuel
> filters?  Does the Biodiesel really clean all the
> gunk out and therefore
> may clog the filters?  Any suggestions are welcome. 
> I don't know the
> price difference, but I thought I would at least try
> a tank. I think I
> have about 3/8 of a tank of regular diesel in my car
> now. Should I wait
> and do a full tank of Bio or should I mix the two
> now, so it is not such
> a shock to the system? Is it okay to go back and
> forth between bio and
> regular?  This station is not close to my house and
> when I travel I get
> diesel on the turnpike. 
> 
>  
> 
> Donald H. Snook
> 
> McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 
> 
> 300 West Douglas
> 
> P.O. Box 207
> 
> Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
> 
> Tel. (316) 263-5851
> 
> This confidential message may be subject to the
> attorney-client
> privilege or protected by the attorney work-product
> doctrine. If you
> have recieved this message in error, please delete
> it and notify me.  
> 
>  
> 
> > ___
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'



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[MBZ] Question: Racor Water Separator

[B Dike]

Diesel Experts,

While debugging the bio fuel problem on the 77 240D I
noticed that someone installed a Racor 'Water
Separator' on the fuel supply line.  It mounts on the
fender wall and the label says 'empty water daily'. 
Anybody know anything about this gadget?  It was
filled with algae so I disabled it by routing the fuel
line around it.

Thanks,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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[MBZ] Biodiesel Usage Report - The Reality

[B Dike]

Dieselers,

Our daily driver fleet of 4 diesels has been running
on commercial B20 mix for 6 months with zero problems.
 For the last month or so I been testing some 100% WVO
based biodiesel in the 77 240D.  The stuff is
processed by a local hobbyist/activist from used
restaurant oil.  It runs super, with all the usual bio
benefits - smoke nearly eliminated, way smoother
running, easy starting etc.  But last couple days
trouble...low power, hard starting, rough running etc
etc, eventually car quit running.  Filter replacement
changed nothing.  Problem traced to blockage in tank,
probably screen.  A couple mild pulses of compressed
air into the fuel supply line eliminated the problem
entirely.   

I love quick fixes. But I probably blew the screen off
and created other sundry issues.  Anyway, it now runs
like a racehorse, at least compared with how it was
prior to the problem.  Eventually I will need to
shopvac the fuel tank to clean out the gunk.  I will
continue with the WVO bio a while longer for further
testing, but only in the 77.  

Epilogue - Folks with older MB diesels owe it to
themselves to try a little bioiesel.  Your cars will
love it.  Start with commercial stuff before you go
with homebrew. All 4 our our diesels run significantly
better with it.  Substantially less smoke, much
smoother, less vibration and rocking, etc. Best single
thing to make old motors run better, including M1.  No
apparent loss, or gain, in mileage or power.  David
Pimental frowns on bio from virgin oil, but endorses
biodiesel from WVO.  I give it a provisional ok, but
let's see how it works long term.

Regards,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Times

[B Dike]

Thanks Darrell.  They must all be working to some
degree because glowing still works to start the car. 
Do the old style GPs degrade over time?

Bruce

--- "Darrell W. Sigmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> BD, first you have series GPs. If one is open NONE
> of them glow. You can 
> change them for the parallel type GPs and not have
> to contend with the 
> slow glowing of the old series GPs.
> 
> Darrell
> 
> B Dike wrote:
> 
> > Volks,
> > 
> > The 77 240D is starting stubbornly on cool
> mornings
> > now, but I'm sure it is because at least one GP is
> > bad.  The GP light doesn't come on at all, and I
> > really ought to do something, but...  Is there a
> GP
> > timer in the relay and if so, how long is it
> supposed
> > stay on?  I want to make sure I keep the GPs lit
> as
> > long as possible.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Bruce
> > 
> > Bruce
> > 82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
> > 85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
> > 75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
> > 77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'
> > 
> > __
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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[MBZ] Glow Plug Times

[B Dike]

Volks,

The 77 240D is starting stubbornly on cool mornings
now, but I'm sure it is because at least one GP is
bad.  The GP light doesn't come on at all, and I
really ought to do something, but...  Is there a GP
timer in the relay and if so, how long is it supposed
stay on?  I want to make sure I keep the GPs lit as
long as possible.

Thanks,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: WA state emissions testing (Was: Re: [MBZ] Re: Who's bright idea was this...)

[B Dike]

Have the car tested at the Renton test center off
I-405. they know how to test diesels.  Sit in the car
yourself and make sure you carefully set the throttle
during the idle test.  Some guys put a block under the
 throttle pedal.  Do not use the Bellevue emission
testing center, they hate diesels.

--- David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Kevin wrote:
> > On Thu, Jul 07, 2005 at 04:35:01PM -0400, David
> Brodbeck wrote:
> >>Good to know.  What about emissions?  How strict
> are they on 
> >>"tampering?"  Would a missing ALDA cap be a
> disqualification?
> > 
> > 
> >>From what I recall, emissions testing on diesels
> varies by county. The 
> > county that seattle is in (King?) required testing
> from what I recall, but 
> > they were more interested in opacity than
> anything. I'd wager that a missing
> > cap isn't something that will cause problems
> provided they don't have a
> > reason to go hunting. My 190D, being a 2.2 five
> speed, doesn't have an ALDA,
> > and was registered in a county that did not do
> emissions testing on diesels.
> > 
> > You should probably tell the list where you are
> planning on moving so that
> > someone from that county can give you more
> specific details.
> 
> It'd be King county.
> 
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'




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Re: [MBZ] price of diesel...interesting theory...no W115

[B Dike]

Christopher,

The W115 is indeed a fun car!  Our W115 240D is way
faster than our W123 240D, and it drives nicer.

Bruce

--- Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I know these threads get tiring, but I am still in
> my
> first year of "dieseling" and I recall from this
> past
> winter the mantra "Diesel is always higher in the
> winter because of demand for heating oil. Gas is
> higher in the summer becuase of the travel season"
> Fall agricultural use also uses alot of diesel it
> was
> said...can't see, personally, how it's more than
> planting in winter - it should be less. Plow, till,
> rotovate, plant, cultivate, etc...harvest is nothing
> in comparison.
> 
> ANYWAY, What the hell is the story now?
> 
> >From what I know, there are no "diesel refineries",
> there are oil refineries and all sorts of stuff gets
> separated out. It can only be two things, it seems:
> 1. Higher demand. Well, I doubt that as train
> shipping
> has jumped substantially (this happens in uncertain
> economic times and confirmed by my friend who works
> for one of the big rail freight lines) and trains
> use
> ALOT less diesel to move the same freight as trucks
> would. Is trucking up so much to offset this and
> create higher demand?
> 2. Conspiracy (unproveable speculation here). The
> oil
> companies remember that the '70's oil crisis caused
> a
> jump in the sale of diesel vehicles. It's happening
> again. Many new diesel models introduced. Front
> cover
> of local car mag advertized the diesel Passat Wagon
> at
> 30-whatever mpg, etc. Fed gov just passed a $4,000
> (!)
> tax credit for the purchase of a new diesel vehicle.
> 
> The oil co's didn't care in the 70's/80's as they
> sold
> gas and diesel. WHAT IS DIFFERENT NOW is that BioD
> is
> becoming increasingly popular (log way to go, but no
> doubt it is happening). I am wondering if they are
> not
> keeping the cost high to DISSUADE the purchase of
> diesel vehicles which in a few years might be able
> to
> fill up on BioD for less than dinoD, which will mean
> $0 from THAT customer to big oil (unless they are in
> the BioD game too (I would be if I were them)).
> 
> In Germany BioD is the CHEAPEST fuel available...so
> with economy of scale, price will come way down.
> (Euro
> fuels are so high becuase they are about 70% tax).
> 
> Thoughts on the conspiracy theory?
> 
> P.S. THe old 240D (new to me) is working great.
> Fun...going from the SD to it is like driving a
> Mercedes go-cart...peppier than I thought (W115
> might
> be the reason).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
> -1985 300SD, 207K miles, "Wulf"
> http://don.homelinux.net/mbz/Chris
> -1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen
> Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen = Alternative Fuel Test
> Vehicle)
> -1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"
> 
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Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: [MBZ] For W116 Lovers......s

[B Dike]

Saw a splendid 300SD today.  Incredibly contemporary
lines.   The teens were awestruck.  Could the W116
possibly be the pinnacle of Mercedes diesel models?

Bruce

--- Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> Check out this site -
> 
> http://www.mb-w116-club.de/bilderbuch.htm
> 
> Lots of Euro 116's...  Nice pix.
> 
> Take care,
> 
> Chuck
> Phoenix, AZ
> 1980 300SD
>   
> 
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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[MBZ] ACC TLC

[B Dike]

Dieselers,

With so many postings on ACC troubles, I thought I'd
offer some suggestion on how I deal with ACC problems
on my 123s. The ACCs on both of my cars misbehave but
problems can be minimized with a few simple
procedures:

1.  Always select Defrost mode first after you start
the car. Always. Whenever the ACC is turned off or the
car is turned off you must start over in Def mode. 
After 3 or 4 seconds in Def, then select the desired
mode.  You have to do this even in the middle of
summer, and yes it can get hot for a minute or so. 
But if you don't initialize the system in Def, the ACC
will misbehave.

2.  Never cycle the buttons quickly.  If you do, it
can switch into the 'ACC From Hell' mode where it
sticks in Defrost mode with the blower on high and
full heat and ignores all inputs. It can stay in this
mode for weeks.  The heat can crack the windshield  
Or it might simply go stupid.  Always be very
deliberate and wait a few seconds between each button
selection.  

3.  What to do if it sticks in ACC From Hell mode:
Select Defrost, then let it cook for 15-20 minutes
while driving (Ugh!).  It must get real hot inside the
car.  Then select the desired temp and mode.  If
nothing happens, repeat the process, except longer. 
This ALWAYS works on my cars, eventually.  

With a litte TLC the old ACCs will do their job
reliably.  Try these tips and see if it doesn't help.


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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Re: [MBZ] Theory vs Practice

[B Dike]

Mitch,

The gas engine may well be more efficient at full
throttle, but that efficiency is offset to some degree
by compression stroke power loss which increases as
intake vacuum decreases.   I am theorizing that the
diesel efficiency curve is steeper than the gasser
curve.

Bruce

--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> B Dike wrote:
> > On the other hand, a
> > gasser has much less compression, and compression
> > power loss is proportional with throttle setting
> due
> > to their intake air butterfly. 
> 
> Backwards. Sucking a vacuum in the intake causes
> loss in efficiency. 
> Your gasser will see maximum horsepower-hour/btu of
> fuel when running full
> throttle at peak torque rpm. Gearing up and using
> more throttle opening
> when requiring low power increases mpg in a gas
> engine more than it does
> in a diesel.
> 
> The best reason to drive a diesel like you stole it
> is to keep it clean
> of unburned fuel residues.
> 
> ___
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
> For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


Bruce
82 300CD 333kmi 'His'
85 300CD 234kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 185kmi 'Theirs' (Back in Commission)
77 240D 199kmi 'The Brown Car'

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