Re: [old-chevy-truck] '53 GMC Door

2013-10-14 Thread James Tye

I have a door that would have to be restored but something to start from.  Tell 
us more about Mr Tree.

The Chevy door all the way up to 2 ton would work.





 From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 9:38 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] '53 GMC Door
 


  
Try eBay:  Bill in 0Oregon
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0_from=R40_nkw=driver%E2%80%99s+side+door+1953+GMC+%C2%BD+ton_sop=16


 
From:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com ] 
On Behalf Of Bob Day
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013
7:33 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] '53 GMC
Door
 
Good morning, 
I’m looking for a good used driver’s side door for my
’53 GMC ½ ton. I had a meeting with a tree in my driveway yesterday. Door
is too far gone to fix.
Thanks,   Bob Day  su...@comcast.net
 

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Stuck brake drums

2013-07-11 Thread James Tye
ordered a manual.  Read the first one to death and it was in tatters.  
So I figured out the axle shaft has to come out with a tool I will have 
to make for the end of a slide hammer.  Then there is some adjusting 
stuff behind that that requires special wrench J870.  I have no idea 
what this looks like, but it is used to remove an adjusting nut and a 
lock nut.  Then I guess the drum pulls off and I can have at the wheel 
cyllinders which is what I want to get at in the first place.  I will 
have them resleeved at a recommended place and put the mess back 
together.  Any ideas where I can get a pic of that J870 wrench

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[old-chevy-truck] Re: 216/235 261 Ignition Timing

2013-07-11 Thread James Tye
Ole red turned over just as nice as you please with the 12 volt system.  I 
checked the coil with a lighe for fire, separated the points and saw a spark, 
changed the spark plug wires and I don't see how things could be any better on 
the ignition side.  She spun and spun but never even tried to fire.

But I did get the brake drum off and contacted a place in CA about a stainless 
steel sleeve estimate.  I have the rest of the wheel cylinder parts sitting in 
carb cleaner for tonight, for the cleaning up routine.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: David Baylis

2013-06-18 Thread James Tye
You've been hacked, my friend.  Do not click on this link.  I have gotten many 
of these, it is a trojan that goes into the contacts list and sends out this 
email, always with the name of the sender as the subject.

--- On Tue, 6/18/13, David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: David Baylis
To: old chevy truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, n8mrw 3404320690 
n8mrw-3404320...@sale.craigslist.org, zjfn6 3387203595 
zjfn6-3387203...@sale.craigslist.org, vdrq5 3302425257 
vdrq5-3302425...@sale.craigslist.org, b5krv 3339136622 
b5krv-3339136...@sale.craigslist.org
Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2013, 9:57 AM
















 



  



  
  
  Hello!

 http://artmoris.com/zwy/zrwse/foa/pjb.html?yqe=nvxbu



David Baylis



xax



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] message Michael Chmielewski

2013-06-10 Thread James Tye

I clicked on the link..and my antivirus software informed me a threat had 
been detected and blocked access to the site.  Heads up, everyone









  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Desert cooler radiator or recore?

2013-04-15 Thread James Tye
Chillicothe, MO

--- On Mon, 4/15/13, luke zsiga 50ch...@gmail.com wrote:

From: luke zsiga 50ch...@gmail.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Desert cooler radiator or recore?
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 10:37 AM

Well that's $380 worth of good news! I'm in New Mexico and this summer ill
make trips to Missouri Oklahoma and Kansas to visit family, where are you?

On Monday, April 15, 2013, James Tye wrote:

 **


 Where are you?  I have a radiator I'd give you.  It has been sitting
 around for years, and it was from Jim Carter.  The outlets are for a V8 and
 this is why it never saw use, as I could never adapt my hoses to fit a  235

 --- On Mon, 4/15/13, luke zsiga 50ch...@gmail.com javascript:_e({},
 'cvml', '50chevy%40gmail.com'); wrote:

 From: luke zsiga 50ch...@gmail.com javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
 '50chevy%40gmail.com');
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Desert cooler radiator or recore?
 To: old-chevy-truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com javascript:_e({},
 'cvml', 'old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com');
 Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 10:15 AM



 Hi guys my radiator is leaking and it is the original 63 year old radiator.

 I also have trouble when driving on the highway it will get up to 200

 degrees before I slow down and let it cool off.

 I am considering either buying a new radiator or recoreing the original. My

 problem with recoreing the original is that I'm concerned there will be

 spots in the metal where it has corroded the metal thin and is about to

 spring another leak right after it gets recored.

 What are your guys thoughts on a recore vs new (non aluminum) radiator?

 Also will the desert cooler radiator from classic parts fit a 235 in a 50

 chevy with a short shaft water pump?

 Thanks,

 Luke

 --

 Luke Z

 '50 Chevy 1/2ton

 3100 stepside

 235 4 on the floor

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  



-- 
Luke  Z
'50 Chevy 1/2ton
3100 stepside
235  4 on the floor


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Coils - Argghhh

2013-04-04 Thread James Tye
I think you're over thinking the whole deal.  These are not rocket science and 
trying to make them rocket science is a waste.  Just get a 6 volt coil from 
Chev's of the 40's or place that specializes in that sort of thing and bolt it 
up.  You want enough spark to fire the plug, but especially on a babbitt 
engine, a massive spark, and other high performance add ons could result in 
premature engine wear.

--- On Thu, 4/4/13, Roy rmark...@cox.net wrote:

From: Roy rmark...@cox.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Coils - Argghhh
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, old_chevroletgmctru...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 4, 2013, 6:23 AM
















 



  



  
  
  I switched my electrical system back to 6 volts and so bought a new 6 
volt coil from one of the vendors. It seems OK but not sure so I began looking 
for a better one. As I started looking I discovered that I can't find 6 volt 
coils but I can find 1.5 or 3.0 ohm coils. ?? So, I Googled everything I could 
and never got a clear understanding of which I needed so I measured the coil I 
got from the vendor and it is 1.5 ohm so I ordered a 40K Flame Thrower 1.5 ohm. 
On the box it says suitable for 8 cylinder engines. Use 3.0 ohm coil for 6 or 
4 cylinder engines except for racing. Can anyone sort this out for me? I am 
running 6 volts on a 216 6 cylinder engine.



Thanks,

Roy



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Tune up hijacked!

2013-03-28 Thread James Tye

I will change this thread name so as not to hijack the original.  As it so 
happens, I have a couple of rivets out at the spring shackle mount on the front 
of my 2 ton that I replaced with a bolt for lack of anything else.  How would I 
put a gunu wyne rivet in the place where a rivet went?
--- On Thu, 3/28/13, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:

From: Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Tune up
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, March 28, 2013, 6:07 AM
















 



  



  
  
  Coming Nate! I had to finish a frame re-riveting procedure first so that 
is

almost done, then I will make yours look great and get it on the site. Sorry

it is taking so long. Are you sure rather than tuning up your old truck you

wouldnt rather replace some of the rivets in your frame? LOL



Deve

www.speedprint.com/Deves50



-Original Message-

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of widucl

Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 11:11 PM

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Tune up



I know there is much good info on this site about tune ups for a truck like

my '51, I would like someone's like Nate's idea of a complete tune up. Where

could I find such information?



thanx







Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed

2012-11-01 Thread James Tye
The big bolt grilles are taller but the same width.  It is posssible to 
assemble the big bolt bars to the half ton risers and it will fit but the 
grille bars will sit closer together and actually look better, but may impede 
air flow through the radiator.

--- On Thu, 11/1/12, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:

From: Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Grille Parts Help Needed
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, November 1, 2012, 5:59 AM
















 



  



  
  
  I am trying to make sense out of a pile of grille parts I have accumulated

over the years and recently acquired (thx John!) and I THINK the big trucks

have a different size grille. So if you have a pile of grille parts, its

about enough to send you to the funny farm (which I have visited already on

numerous occasions) to figure out what goes with what. Does anyone out there

know for sure if the big trucks are for sure different, and any sizing info

or anything to help would be greatly appreciated. 47-53 of course. Thx!






 









  










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[old-chevy-truck] My trip to St. Joe part 3

2012-10-21 Thread James Tye


Just to give some more background on this truck, my dad bought it in 1960 when 
I was 2.  It had 29000 miles on it then.  He took it to Reno, NV from 
Jamesport, MO.  Since then it has been on numerous trips, about 40 miles 
woth.  It has had a few engines and transmissions and a rear end out of a 57 
Chevy van.  We have pictures of it inside the tree at Yosimite, on the 
continental divide, etc.  Once in 1968 it pulled a trailer from Reno to 
Jamsport, MO with mom driving as dad drove a Ford 2 ton ahead with a trailer 
and that was a move.  So this has always been a well cared for work truck.

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[old-chevy-truck] worn front axle possibilities

2012-10-21 Thread James Tye

I have had that happen.  I ended up using the axle and spindles on a trailer.  
I don't think the spindle is cast, but still needs to be round to accept the 
king pin bushing and pin and have the repair last.  Ebay can be a venue for 
replacement spindles, and you might call Jim Carter and/or Chev's of the 
forties and see if they have odds and ends, not listed in any catalog but 
around.  The backing plate bolts for a 49 wil be smaller than the 51-55 but 
should work OK at the kingpin side and if you want to use discs 
anyway.well, what I know now I would.  What I am wondering 
about.and I will change the thread title alittle so as to avoid 
hijacking your thread, would the disc brake rotors off a 6 lug late model Chevy 
truck work on a disc brake conversion.  I was checking the parking lot last 
night at work.  Security check, but usually I get bored and count Cadillacs.  
None in employee parking I might add...anyway I noticed a
 2008? Chevy Tahoe with 6 lug wheels.  Kind of made me start the wheels 
turning, not that I would want that wheel, but would it be the same pattern for 
an upgrade on a 51?
--- On Sun, 10/21/12, corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:


From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: worn front axle
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 21, 2012, 10:47 AM



  



So the king pin wore thru the bushing and into the steel. They're charging
you for building that up with weld, milling it out and then doing the
bushing work. You might shop a replacement casting on eBay. I would be
concerned with the welding causing stress in the cast part. This can be
reduced but it would have to be a good shop. Bill in oregon

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of randy
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012 10:39 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: worn front axle

It is the casting itself that is worn away the bushing floats in the oblong
hole. Steering was basically non existent. The parts all fit together fine
on the driver's side so I'm pretty sure I've got the right kit. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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[old-chevy-truck] Helper springs

2012-09-21 Thread James Tye
I'm looking for a picture of installed helper springs.  I'm wanting to know how 
they go.  There is an angle in the top leaf I need to know if it's at the front 
or rear and does it point in or out?






  










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[old-chevy-truck] Rivets

2012-09-10 Thread James Tye
I am replacing the terminal strips that go on the inner fender.  The ones that 
connect the headlights.  What is the correct rivet to use?  Would a hardware 
store have it?






  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

2012-09-09 Thread James Tye
Good idea on theory, but in practice the tool sticks out too far.  The pressure 
plate can not go over it.

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, Mike  Inez Mail impl...@comcast.net wrote:

From: Mike  Inez Mail impl...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 8, 2012, 11:32 PM
















 



  



  
  
  Use the centering tool to hold the clutch disk in place, then place the 
pressure plate over the disk and centering tool. bolt it up and wala new clutch 
installed.

Mike 50 3100



I got my flyweel replaced.  With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but I 
got it done.  Now I need a trick.  The manual shows the engine upside down to 
replace this stuff.  Working from underneath, when the pressure plate falls on 
you, it hurts.  How do you hold the clutch in place while you put the pressure 
plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the centering tool?



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

2012-09-08 Thread James Tye
It looked good; better of 2.  I'm not sure what spec is but I figured a 2 ton 
clutch and pressure plate is overkill anyway.

--- On Sat, 9/8/12, corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:

From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 8, 2012, 3:43 AM
















 



  



  
  
  You going to make sure your pressure plate is up-to-spec before you put it

back in there? Rebuild one are available.  Bill



_  



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of James Tye

Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 8:11 PM

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate



That will be one of two strategies I will try next day off.  The other

involves holding the clutch in place with a bolt and fender washer or 2 and

slipping the pressure plate over.  While it is a half ton truck, it uses a 2

ton flywheel with the bolt holes all the way out at the end of the flywheel.

I had noticed an occasional clutch chatter and sure enough the springs were

loose.  The transmission I changed out my dad installed in the mid sixties.

It had over 300,000 miles on it.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 









  










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[old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

2012-09-07 Thread James Tye
I got my flyweel replaced.  With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but I 
got it done.  Now I need a trick.  The manual shows the engine upside down to 
replace this stuff.  Working from underneath, when the pressure plate falls on 
you, it hurts.  How do you hold the clutch in place while you put the pressure 
plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the centering tool?






  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

2012-09-07 Thread James Tye
That will be one of two strategies I will try next day off.  The other involves 
holding the clutch in place with a bolt and fender washer or 2 and slipping the 
pressure plate over.  While it is a half ton truck, it uses a 2 ton flywheel 
with the bolt holes all the way out at the end of the flywheel.  I had noticed 
an occasional clutch chatter and sure enough the springs were loose.  The 
transmission I changed out my dad installed in the mid sixties.  It had over 
300,000 miles on it.

--- On Fri, 9/7/12, corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:

From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, September 7, 2012, 6:44 PM
















 



  



  
  
  Can you position the pressure plate with a few bolts screwed into the top 
of

the pressure plate; may need longer than stock bolts. 



Then slip the clutch disk up from the bottom between the flywheel and

pressure plate, fixturing it with the centering tool. 



Then put stock pressure plate bolts in the remaining open holes. Do a final

check on the centering tool and tighten flywheel bolt a little, going around

and around.



Bill in Oregon  



_  



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of James Tye

Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 4:45 PM

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate



I got my flyweel replaced.  With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but

I got it done.  Now I need a trick.  The manual shows the engine upside down

to replace this stuff.  Working from underneath, when the pressure plate

falls on you, it hurts.  How do you hold the clutch in place while you put

the pressure plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the

centering tool?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 









  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel teeth

2012-09-05 Thread James Tye

I got my clutch from O'reilly.  Got ,my flywheel surfaced .015  I don't think 
the pressure plate is bad.  not sure what to look for.  Classic Parts of 
America might send a throwout bearing one of these times.  No sticker on the 
clutch..which side is the flywheel side?






  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] stock racks

2012-09-03 Thread James Tye
Thanks!  That was what I was looking for, sort of...the stuff at the left 
wouldn't load, so I did a search of Bill Greene Nona and went to 
images.clicke on the truck and one thing led to another and I found 
http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/stakerail.php Then I tried to upload pictures 
of mine and got errors and gave up.

--- On Mon, 9/3/12, cadamsa...@aol.com cadamsa...@aol.com wrote:

From: cadamsa...@aol.com cadamsa...@aol.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] stock racks
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, September 3, 2012, 8:57 AM
















 



  



  
  
  Hello Mark and Ole Truckers,



At times it takes me a while to get to the right page:  for pickups 

with boxes (in need of wood racks) this might be helpful:



http://www.chevytrucks.org/jeff/



which gets you to, Welcome to Jeff Nelson's Advance Design Chevy Truck 

Page.



On the left side of the welcome page, click on Technical Articles 

and choose Stake  Rail Sides.



This brings up Stake  Rail Sides (also called sideboards by some 

old timers) Courtesy of Bill Green, Canton, OH and features Granpa's 

'52 3100 Nona - lovingly named after Grandma.



The stake and rail sides are five rails high (looks like just higher 

than the AD cab) with an opening for the rear cab window. Description 

and photos make how to construct the sideboards (I am pretending to 

be an old timer, here) fairly clear.



Thanks to Jeff, Bill, Grandma, and Granpa.



Regards and Hope this helps,



Culver Adams

1951 Chevy 3100

Minneapolis, MN



---

-Original Message-

From: mark m...@noakes.com

To: old-chevy-truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Mon, Sep 3, 2012 8:46 am

Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] stock racks



 

The pdf was really cool (especially liked the info on the 39 Suburban

and station wagons), but these bed stakes appear to be for flat bed 

trucks.



My brother bought his 57 Chevy pickup from the original owner, a 

farmer.

When the farmer bought his new truck, he transferred his bed stakes

from his old worn out pickup to his new 57. The truck still has

those on it. They are oak painted black and are in ok shape. These are

probably not what you want (I have no idea whether they were factory or

not), but I could probably come up with pictures short term and maybe

measured drawings longer term if there is any interest.



Outside of some fender bender damage that was repaired in the early 60s

and my brother's repaint of the wheels/bumpers, this is a still running

unrestored original truck...the interior is pretty ratty but the

exterior looks ok.



Mark N



On 9/2/12 11:47 PM, cadamsa...@aol.com wrote:

gt;

gt; Hello James and Ole Truckers,

gt;

gt; I think there are drawings for a light duty and a heavy duty rack 

at:

gt; http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/aben-plans/6192.pdf

gt;

gt; Regards and hope this helps,

gt;

gt; Culver Adams

gt; 1951 Chevy 3100

gt; Minneapolis, MN

gt;






 









  










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[old-chevy-truck] stock racks

2012-09-02 Thread James Tye

There used to be a site that showed how to make the cab high stock racks.  It 
must have died.  Did anyone save pictures?   I made a set and sold the truck.  
Now I want to make a set out of Oak






  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel teeth

2012-09-01 Thread James Tye
I got the clutch and pressure plate off OK.  Oily.  How can I immobilize the 
flywheel to take out the bolts.  Impact wrench will not do it







  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : Re Awakening

2012-08-25 Thread James Tye
OK I can be wrong so anybody knows better chime in.  You need a test light 
which still can be had for less than a 5 spot in most places.  Clamp the clip 
to a good not corroded ground.  So when you touch the tip to the post on the 
starter you should have a light.  When you touch the tip to the coil on the 
positive side you should have a light with the ignition switch on.  When you 
touch the tip to the lead on the side of the distributor, you should have a 
light with the switch on.  Don't worry about the condenser on the coil.  It's 
only function was to make the radio sound better, which you don't have anyway.

So if you have fire to the points o you have a better idea what don't need 
fixed.  This is diagnostics, the most tricky part of mechanic work.  Finding 
out what's right narrows down what is wrong

--- On Sat, 8/25/12, tonydsny t...@tonyseideman.com wrote:

From: tonydsny t...@tonyseideman.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : Re Awakening
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 25, 2012, 8:12 AM
















 



  



  
  
  

No blue spark. Anybody know the specs for a Loadmaster condenser?



I followed Nate's advice as given in his response to the Re Awakening post 
and attached a loose spark plug to one of the leads from my distributor.



In that note, he said that, if there were no problems with the electrical 
system, there would be a rhythmic blue spark coming from he plug.



In the YouTube video below, you can see the result: 

http://youtu.be/TyXkBc7h_1c



Not even the hint of a spark.



My condenser looks pretty corroded, so I guess it's the first candidate for 
replacement.



Tony Seideman 



--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Michael Cash michaelacash@... wrote:



 I can't wait to hear Nate's step by step on this!

 

 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.

2012-08-19 Thread James Tye
Lessee.I can see that your lines have been molested.  I would put a glass 
bowl fuel filter directly in front of the carb.  What is that thing on top of 
the water outlet?  I see you have a radiator shroud.  A rare accessory but it 
will be the male offspring of a sinful rebellious woman who complains 
alot..or the vernacular there of.to change your belt or do 
anything with the waterpump..  If you have a tubing bender and a double flaring 
tool it is simple to make the fuel and vacuum lines like original.  That thing 
that connects to the oil filler on the valve covernot sure what that is.

I just put a 52 engine out of an old oil distributor in my 48 2 ton grain 
truck.  The decal on the valve cover is in readable shape.  It said Loadmaster 
105.  I can take a picture of it with my phone if you want.  I'd love to find 
another decal to restore that valve cover..  All that is available is the 
Thriftmaster decal.

--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote:

From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine 
Restoration.
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 9:41 AM

That fire truck is a beauty!   And what a monument to both small town history 
in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular.  Me want one too!

The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending fuel 
and does the carb then spray little sprays of atomized gas into its own 
throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly into the 
carburetor!



On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, tonydsny t...@tonyseideman.com wrote:

 In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly 
 parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/
 
 I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently 
 decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine has 
 locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the 
 Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy 
 once the compression was released.
 
 Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an Optima 
 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, sanding and 
 gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the plugs out was a 
 significant achievement for me. But I've got the original manual and a book 
 on Chevy restoration. 
 
 What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase the 
 chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in?
 
 Is it a good idea to use startup fluid?
 
 Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? 
 
 Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly spots. 
 Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual paint job? I 
 don't like the measles look, but better that than more corrosion.
 
 Here are some more shots of the mechanicals:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/
 
 Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it move, 
 push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop would 
 have been a bit much.
 
 Tony Seideman
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 235 woes...

2012-06-25 Thread James Tye
Pour a can of heet or two in the fuel tank

--- On Mon, 6/25/12, fx3 ca...@flyingfoto.com wrote:

From: fx3 ca...@flyingfoto.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 235 woes...
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, June 25, 2012, 9:56 AM
















 



  



  
  
  In my 1953 3800 I have a 57 235. Of late when I drive it, it will crank 
and run well, idles nicely, etc. I may run 20 minutes or so, arrive somewhere, 
park, etc. When I return, it may or may not crank back to life easily, but it 
will crank, then the trouble inevitably begins. Get underway, and in short 
order looses power, and stalls while running, and then is difficult if not 
impossible to re-start. It is like it is loosing spark. Let it sit overnight, 
it cranks right up like nothing happened. Obviously heat related? Fuel pump is 
OK. Any suggestions? Thanks much in advance! Casey 






 









  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] head bolt/oil flow question - 235

2012-05-16 Thread James Tye
I've seen that special bolt, have one lying about, not too hard for a machinist 
to modify.  Some models of the 235 used it, but I think they later rerouted, as 
not all 235's had it.  There have been other threads of this nature over the 
years, but it has not been covered recently.

--- On Tue, 5/15/12, Brenda and Robert Greulich greul...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

From: Brenda and Robert Greulich greul...@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] head bolt/oil flow question - 235
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 15, 2012, 5:47 PM
















 



  



  
  
  rebuilt my 235 5 years dont remember a special bolt

but will check the book



IN GOD I TRUST. HAVE A GREAT DAY 



--- On Tue, 5/15/12, Goulet, John A. gou...@wpi.edu wrote:



From: Goulet, John A. gou...@wpi.edu

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] head bolt/oil flow question - 235

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Tuesday, May 15, 2012, 6:08 PM



hi



Is one of the head bolts on a 235 supposed to be special, with a channel in the 
side to allow oil flow?  #4 ?



If so what range  (yrs) of motors?  What if an ordinary bolt replaces it?



Any knowledge appreciated.  We are assembling a motor and not sure about that 
detail

as we are looking at one motor with that bolt being special and another with an 
ordinary bolt hence

confused  (old story)



   thanks!



          John



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
behalf of Nate [vwna...@yahoo.com]

Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 6:00 PM

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Toyota Land Cruiser L6



Actually , GM sold Toyota the rights to make the 235 in 1963 .



For reasons I'll never understand , the Toyota guys like to lie and say it 
isn't so when it is and was widely talked about in the Motor Trade Magazines at 
the time .



They also sold off the V-6 engine and bought it back in the 1970's when the 
first fuel crunch hit .



-Nate

James wrote:











 I heard that Toyota used the 235 engine in early seventies engines.  I heard 
 they actually scoured the junk yards at one point for cores.  What I don't 
 know is what they called this engine.  I believe if I knew the name and 
 numbers I could possibly use the Toyota oil pan which I ended up brazing up 
 an oil pan for my 235 until I can find a good oil pan for permanant mount.

























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[old-chevy-truck] oil pan

2012-05-13 Thread James Tye




I heard that Toyota used the 235 engine in early seventies engines.  I heard 
they actually scoured the junk yards at one point for cores.  What I don't know 
is what they called this engine.  I believe if I knew the name and numbers I 
could possibly use the Toyota oil pan which I ended up brazing up an oil pan 
for my 235 until I can find a good oil pan for permanant mount.

  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] oil pan

2012-05-13 Thread James Tye
Well, the bad news is that when I filled the oil and connected a drill to the 
oil pump, it began throwing oil from somewhere in the viscinity of the 
flywheel.  This engine is OPJ ( officially pronounced junk and will receive no 
further attention other than its removal and dismantling.  I will go with the 
better of two '54 engines sitting in the garage sans heads.  One is pretty oily 
and the other I can still see the blue.  But someone put the wrong harmonic 
balancer on it and may have messed up the crank.  Will my pushrods 
interchange?  or the head and rockers?  Is there a procedure?  A timeline of 
procedures involved in a major overhaul?  A recommended series of dismantling 
and renovation?  Oddly enough I don't feel pissed as I properly should, though 
the prospect of transmission, engine removal replacement is not an attractive 
one.

-





  










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[old-chevy-truck] Got some more done on cleanup

2012-04-28 Thread James Tye

I started in on the shed today.  There are three 4 speed transmissions sitting 
in the doorway, and I would like to keep one and the rest are going out..  I 
pulled out a good splash pan for behind the grille upper and lower.  I am 
starting to feel how some of these people feel on the reality shows.  You know 
it has to go as there is not enough room but keep inventing excuses to hold on 
alittle longer.  The splash pan.trade straight across for an oil pan for 56 
or later 235.  I figure it will cost me to ship and it will cost you to ship.  

Anybody need a wheel for a David Bradley tractor?

In other news, I brazed up the rust holes on the oil pan I had.  It still 
leaks, but I can't tell if it's leaking at the plug or if I messed a spot.  I 
may put some JB weld on there too, but this pan will have to get me by till I 
can find a good one.  What is the torque setting for an oil pan bolt?  I 
generally go 15 ft# so I don't over tighten, but what is everyone else doing?






  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Coffee break time

2012-04-20 Thread James Tye
I ended up taking the oil pump apart from underneath, leaving the body in 
place.  The gears fell right out but it's getting new ones now.  I thought I 
had an oil pan but it was for a '54.  Shame, it was a nice oil pan but I needed 
it to cover the engine it was on.  Maybe a place that restores engine parts?  
The pan had a triple oversize plug and still leaked so it needed replacing.  
Seems like someone on the board had one awhile back.

--- On Fri, 4/20/12, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Nate vwna...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Coffee break time
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 20, 2012, 1:57 PM
















 



  



  
  
  

Oh crap James ;



I go away for a few days and you're having the devil of a time .



I prolly have a late model oil pan for a 235 in my back room , prolly cost a 
fair bit to ship .



The oil pump never turned ? or turned a bit then slowed down and seemed to jam 
? .



I ask because the oil pump gets a _lot_ of drag as soon as it begins to pump 
oil , that's why I recommend using a hand drill .



I wish I were there and able to go underneath it to see what's up .



Often taking a break is the right thing to do .



I ruined the *pristine* rockerbox on my '49 3100's 234 when first I bought it ~ 
they'd cemented the dang gasket on _BOTH_ sides and not even a single jack and 
4 X 6 could get it loose , I had to batter it off , ruining it beyond help .



-Nate

 James  wrote:



 Finally had to walk away from it.  Destroyed the oil pan trying to get it 
 off.  Some god awful gasket sealer.  Then the oil pump lock not.odd 
 sized I could see it was well rounded.  No force on this earth capable of 
 getting it loose, unless you strip the engine and weld a wrench to the nut 
 and turn it with a cheater pipe.  So I took the pump apart from 
 underneath.  Now there is no other choice but to rebuild it underneath that 
 truck in the gravel and the leaves.  So I need a new oil pan, needed one 
 anyway but now I need it alittle more, and I need a picture of an oil pump 
 disassembled so I can make sure I have all the parts.

 

 What is langdon talking about when he says drill the oil pump around the 
 relef valve and the oil feed?

 

  






 









  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 54 Chevy 1/2 ton Question

2011-12-18 Thread James Tye
The higher geared rear end was an option

--- On Sun, 12/18/11, Ron rsi...@cox.net wrote:

From: Ron rsi...@cox.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 54 Chevy 1/2 ton Question
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 18, 2011, 4:28 PM
















 



  



  
  
  



Interesting, my research shows the 55 rear end is 3.90 ratio and I had  someone 
tell me with larger rear tires he could easily run highway speeds.  But then he 
did not tell me what rpm he  was running.

Ron



--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, James Tye dazysnow@... wrote:



 I put a 55 1st series rear end under a 49 once.  I used 3/8 plate to move 
 the rear end back I forget the length and ubolts to hold the rear end in 
 place.  I wasn't real happy with the swap as the 4:11 gears weren't built 
 for speed. 

 

 --- On Sat, 12/17/11, Ron rsims2@... wrote:

 

 From: Ron rsims2@...

 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 54 Chevy 1/2 ton Question

 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

 Date: Saturday, December 17, 2011, 11:15 AM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

   

   

   I bought a 55 1st P/U trailer for the truck bed, but I am curious if 
 the open drive train rear end is also a direct bolt in to my 54 or close to 
 it with little or no modification.  My engine is toast but I have a 235 that 
 was in a 49 3/4 ton including the 4 speed tranny and the drive shaft.  I know 
 I will have to shorten the drive shaft, but I hoping otherwise I can bolt in 
 the new drive train and rear end into my 54.  Any thoughts or suggestions?  
 Will I have to put in a different cross member to support the open drive 
 tranny?  Guess there should be one of those on the 55 trailer frame.  Maybe 
 one of these days I can do something with this 54 instead of just collecting 
 parts :)   

 

 

 

 Thanks Ron 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 54 Chevy 1/2 ton Question

2011-12-17 Thread James Tye
I put a 55 1st series rear end under a 49 once.  I used 3/8 plate to move the 
rear end back I forget the length and ubolts to hold the rear end in place.  I 
wasn't real happy with the swap as the 4:11 gears weren't built for speed. 

--- On Sat, 12/17/11, Ron rsi...@cox.net wrote:

From: Ron rsi...@cox.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 54 Chevy 1/2 ton Question
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 17, 2011, 11:15 AM
















 



  



  
  
  I bought a 55 1st P/U trailer for the truck bed, but I am curious if the 
open drive train rear end is also a direct bolt in to my 54 or close to it with 
little or no modification.  My engine is toast but I have a 235 that was in a 
49 3/4 ton including the 4 speed tranny and the drive shaft.  I know I will 
have to shorten the drive shaft, but I hoping otherwise I can bolt in the new 
drive train and rear end into my 54.  Any thoughts or suggestions?  Will I have 
to put in a different cross member to support the open drive tranny?  Guess 
there should be one of those on the 55 trailer frame.  Maybe one of these days 
I can do something with this 54 instead of just collecting parts :)   



Thanks Ron 






 









  










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[old-chevy-truck] Oil pressure line fittings

2011-11-21 Thread James Tye

I got my new oil pressure lines from Chevs of the Forties.  The kit consists of 
a coil of tubing and some fittings, which I assume are for other models besides 
my own.  My 48 2 ton uses the type that had pointed ends.  The ends on the old 
line would not come off the line.  I'm not sure how to do the install and no 
instructions came with the kit.  Do you just put the line into the 
fitting,leaving alittle stickout, and screw it into the gage and oil fitting as 
far as it will go and tighten?  Or is there some type of trick to this type of 
fitting?

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 56 to 62 oil pan

2011-10-30 Thread James Tye
I will speak up for the other one if it is not too late.  Mine got tightened 
down by a gorilla a few times too many.  Now the drain plug takes a triple 
oversize and still leaks more than I can afford for it to leak.  But 
first...what are the drain plugs like?

--- On Sat, 10/29/11, Bruce Ioppini dalian...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Bruce Ioppini dalian...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 56 to 62 oil pan
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, October 29, 2011, 5:37 PM
















 



  



  
  
  Hi Dave,    I have two oilpans for a Chevy 235 or 261.  Are correct for 
the year you want.  One has perhaps two very minor dents in it and has surface 
rust.  The other has peeling gray paint, very very slight rust,  and I see no 
dents.  I would suggest both should receive a light sandblasting before 
painting.  The one with the dents I want $25.00 and the other I want $35.00.  I 
do not charge for packing, but you would pay the shipping.  If you are 
interested,  I can send you some pictures tomorrow.  It is too dark to take any 
now.  Thanks,   Bruce



--- On Sat, 10/29/11, Dave docrock...@hotmail.com wrote:



From: Dave docrock...@hotmail.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 56 to 62 oil pan

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Saturday, October 29, 2011, 5:19 PM



 



I have a 59 engine and I am looking for an oil pan and the correct oil pump and 
pick up tube. The motor is going in my 52 1 ton.



Thanks for any help



Dave



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread James Tye
I got in on this thread late.  Sounds to me like the engine is toast.  I am 
still in Northwest MO and I have a 235 block out of a 54 engine I'd give you 
just to make space if you were nearby enough to make it practical.  I've pulled 
a few engines and it takes more time but fewer valium and tylenol to first 
remove the transmission and then the engine, unless you have the cab off, too.  
The hood usually has tocome off as well as the radiator and the radiator 
support.  I have seen removals where the radiator support top piece was cut, 
but I don't like to do it that way.




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[old-chevy-truck] (unknown)

2011-08-10 Thread James Tye
pim disappointed that I let my debt build up so much despite the 
circumstances I remained hopeful because of this im always one step 
ahead...bra 
href=http://www.bergansoutdoor.cz/redir.php?fygifix=facebook.comamp;tutohi=facebook.comamp;url=http://job-reporter.net/esubmit/bizopp_main.php;http://www.bergansoutdoor.cz/redir.php?fygifix=facebook.comamp;tutohi=facebook.comamp;url=http://job-reporter.net/esubmit/bizopp_main.php/a
 now im the most respected guy around please dont put this offbrYour going to 
be so happy!/p


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[old-chevy-truck] (unknown)

2011-08-08 Thread James Tye
pmy friends were sick of always paying for me I wanted to prove I could 
amount to something there is no comparing to this .bra 
href=http://dor31war.5gbfree.com/AndrewClark62.html;http://dor31war.5gbfree.com/AndrewClark62.html/a
 its funny how the tables have turned believe me the sky is the limitbrKeep 
this a secret!/p


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] (unknown)

2011-08-08 Thread James Tye
This message is from the real James Tye.  I didn't send the first one.  I got 
hacked, or my account at Yahoo got hacked.  Or maybe I got a virus that McAfee 
can't find.  I can't be sorry for what I didn't do in the first place, but I am 
sorry I got hacked.

--- On Mon, 8/8/11, James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com wrote:






 



  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 265 V-8 in an AD?

2011-05-31 Thread James Tye
With the wide availability and reliability of the V6, I am surprised no one has 
thought to put one in an AD truck

--- On Tue, 5/31/11, Daron Nettles dwn...@swbell.net wrote:

From: Daron Nettles dwn...@swbell.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 265 V-8 in an AD?
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2011, 9:55 AM















 
 



  



  
  
  Is a 265 V8 a good choice for a 51 AD.  I know a stovebolt is the best 
choice, but I have never seen a 265 or any other fromt mount V-8 in any AD. Was 
wondering if it was cramped and what it was matched to.  Daron



--- On Sun, 5/29/11, getalife bagge...@yahoo.com wrote:



From: getalife bagge...@yahoo.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] For Sale: 1955 265 V-8

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Sunday, May 29, 2011, 12:25 PM



  



I have a 265 v-8 out of a 1955 chevy pickup, its complete minus the carb. The 
engine will need to be rebuilt. Asking $250.00 and located in NC.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Rear Ends

2011-05-26 Thread James Tye
Why in the world would you want to?  You would still have an enclosed 
driveshaft, an obsolete rear end, brake pad issues, etc.  Why not just get a 
rearend off an open drive line vehicle such as a '69 Chevy half ton.  Get some 
pads, be sure and use a n adapter plate to get the rear end to sit where it 
should, get the back plate off a 2 ton or 3/4 ton truck.  Bolts right up on a 4 
speed.  My dad did that in the early seventies.  The GPS says I'm doing about 
60 and not putting too much strain on the engine.  Speedo says I'm going 
faster, haven't conquered that one yet, but the GPS keeps me from donating to 
the state.

--- On Thu, 5/26/11, Green, Steven D. sgr...@ku.edu wrote:

From: Green, Steven D. sgr...@ku.edu
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Rear Ends
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, May 26, 2011, 9:36 AM















 
 



  



  
  
  

I read a tech article some guy wrote on sticking a 1950-1954 Chevy car rear 
axle (from a powerglide equipped car) underneath a 1946 and older  Chevy 
pickup.  He got better highway speeds and 5-bolt axles out of the deal on the 
cheap.



Question: anyone know if this swap will work in a 1947-1953 pickup?Is this 
a bad idea in general?



Thanks,

Steve

1953 3100



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Vendors

2011-04-21 Thread James Tye
Nate can hit the nail on the head.  Really, Chev's of the 40's has come up with 
parts when no one else could.  I used to go to junk yards, but they kind of 
ceased to exist or the ones that still are around are so dopey you don't want 
to be seen frequenting the places.  I sure wish we had swap meets here.

--- On Thu, 4/21/11, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Nate vwna...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Vendors
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 21, 2011, 7:22 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  

I tend to hit the junkyards  swap meets 'cause I don't trust vendors .



Chevs Of The 40's in Wa. State , is very good _if_ you're rich .



-Nate

 Jim  wrote:



 Someone here should build a database of where to get what parts. :-) How

 about Nate... LOL

 

 

 

  






 





 



  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !

2011-04-09 Thread James Tye
I'll sure be glad to sell it to him.  I'm also hurting for time so I probably 
won't find time to go to the crusher, but I'd still like to find a home for the 
truck.

--- On Thu, 4/7/11, wapom...@aol.com wapom...@aol.com wrote:

From: wapom...@aol.com wapom...@aol.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 7, 2011, 5:55 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  

 Rick 



Look's like Shayne's after the truck if not this guy i know sounds interested 



John

Jef City MO

52 3/4 ton chevy truck



-Original Message-

From: Rick nline...@gmail.com

To: old-chevy-truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thu, Apr 7, 2011 7:38 pm

Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !



I think he still has it. I think there is still a week to go. I got a response 
from him a couple days ago. He is hurtin for room. I may get it if no one steps 
up, just to keep it from the crusher. I will email him again and see if he 
responds back soon.



Sent from my HTC Tilt 2, a Windows® phone from ATT



-Original Message-

From: sshirey57 stshi...@hotmail.com

Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 18:36

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !



I haven't received any replies from him and have been trying for 3 days. I am 
assuming the truck is crushed or sold or something. Didn't get anything in my 
work e-mail either. I hope he responds to someone at least.



Shayne

 Lebanon, MO



--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Wapomusa@... wrote:

 

 

  James

  can you send your e-mail addy maybe a phone #

  I'll give it to this guy in the am

 

  John

  Jef City MO

  52 3/4 ton chevy truck

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  -Original Message-

  From: Nate vwnate1@...

  To: old-chevy-truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

  Sent: Thu, Apr 7, 2011 8:00 am

  Subject: [old-chevy-truck] CHEAP AD Project / Parts !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Maybe E-Bay or craigslist ? .

 

  It's a shame to see it go to scrap .

 

  -Nate

  James Wrote :

 

  Time is running out

 

  Well, no response yet on this offer. This truck is going to the crusher on

  April 14. If no one wants a thing, what is the use of having it yourself? The

  cab on this truck was sandblasted and is in lacquer primer. I have kept it

  inside to keep it from rusting,



[The entire original message is not included]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !

2011-04-07 Thread James Tye
I'm here my friends, although I will be tied up most of the day tomorrow as I 
have to do errands.  I thlought my email was on my posts and I have been 
reluctant to give anything else out since I have been getting wierd phone calls 
about winning items at sams club auction, which I never heard of, let alone bid 
on...

--- On Thu, 4/7/11, Rick nline...@gmail.com wrote:

From: Rick nline...@gmail.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 7, 2011, 5:38 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  I think he still has it. I think there is still a week to go. I got a 
response from him a couple days ago. He is hurtin for room. I may get it if no 
one steps up, just to keep it from the crusher. I will email him again and see 
if he responds back soon.



Sent from my HTC Tilt™ 2, a Windows® phone from ATT



-Original Message-

From: sshirey57 stshi...@hotmail.com

Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 18:36

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: CHEAP AD Project / Parts !



I haven't received any replies from him and have been trying for 3 days. I am 
assuming the truck is crushed or sold or something. Didn't get anything in my 
work e-mail either. I hope he responds to someone at least.



Shayne

 Lebanon, MO



--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Wapomusa@... wrote:

 

 

  James

  can you send your e-mail addy maybe a phone #

  I'll give it to this guy in the am

 

  John

  Jef City MO

  52 3/4 ton chevy truck

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  -Original Message-

  From: Nate vwnate1@...

  To: old-chevy-truck old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

  Sent: Thu, Apr 7, 2011 8:00 am

  Subject: [old-chevy-truck] CHEAP AD Project / Parts !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Maybe E-Bay or craigslist ? .

 

  It's a shame to see it go to scrap .

 

  -Nate

  James Wrote :

 

  Time is running out

 

  Well, no response yet on this offer. This truck is going to the crusher on

  April 14. If no one wants a thing, what is the use of having it yourself? The

  cab on this truck was sandblasted and is in lacquer primer. I have kept it

  inside to keep it from rusting,



[The entire original message is not included]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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[old-chevy-truck] Time is running out

2011-04-04 Thread James Tye

Well, no response yet on this offer.  This truck is going to the crusher on 
April 14.  If no one wants a thing, what is the use of having it yourself?  The 
cab on this truck was sandblasted and is in lacquer primer.  I have kept it 
inside to keep it from rusting, but I have other priority storage.  $500.00 
will buy the cab, frame, engine, transmission, bed sides and fenders, hood, 
grille.  The title is clear and matches the engine numbers.  Location is 
Chillicothe, MO.





 



  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] This 1949 is for sale cheap on craigslis!!!

2011-04-02 Thread James Tye
Somebody looking for a '49?  I got a basket case.  For $500.00 you get a cab, a 
frame, 2 bed sides, 2 front fenders, a hood, a grille and whatever misc I see 
fit to throw in at the time.  This offer expires a week from now on April  7 at 
.midnight.  Hell,if you're short of cash I'll trade for a basket Harley!  
Location is Chillicothe, MO.  clock starts now

--- On Sat, 4/2/11, Morfiend donnie2...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Morfiend donnie2...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] This 1949 is for sale cheap on craigslis!!!
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 8:53 AM















 
 



  



  
  
  This is a good one on craigs list for sale...Heres  the link...

http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/2301041063.html






 





 



  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] This 1949 is for sale cheap on craigslis!!!

2011-04-02 Thread James Tye
Oh, and an engine, transmission with a matching numbered title.

--- On Sat, 4/2/11, James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] This 1949 is for sale cheap on craigslis!!!
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 9:50 AM















 
 



  



  
  
  Somebody looking for a '49?  I got a basket case.  For $500.00 you get a 
cab, a frame, 2 bed sides, 2 front fenders, a hood, a grille and whatever misc 
I see fit to throw in at the time.  This offer expires a week from now on April 
 7 at .midnight.  Hell,if you're short of cash I'll trade for a basket Harley!  
Location is Chillicothe, MO.  clock starts now



--- On Sat, 4/2/11, Morfiend donnie2...@yahoo.com wrote:



From: Morfiend donnie2...@yahoo.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] This 1949 is for sale cheap on craigslis!!!

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 8:53 AM



 



This is a good one on craigs list for sale...Heres  the link...



http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/2301041063.html



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 5 Speed Trannies

2011-01-17 Thread James Tye
But will this brand F 5 speed bolt right up to a Long 6 bell housing such as 
was in common use from 1937-6? and maybe on into the wonder years?

--- On Mon, 1/17/11, Arizona Real Estate tikua...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Arizona Real Estate tikua...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 5 Speed Trannies
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 17, 2011, 8:47 AM















 
 



  



  
  
  F = Furd,  the un-Chevy/GMC Brand



--- On Mon, 1/17/11, Peter Peterson merkile...@yahoo.com wrote:



From: Peter Peterson merkile...@yahoo.com

Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 5 Speed Trannies

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Monday, January 17, 2011, 9:23 AM



What years are we talking about?  I assume the F designates the manufacturing 

years??  



Peter

Calgary



(The Brand 'F' Fiesta 5 speed box is a popular AD upgrade , cheap too as the 

junkyards are loaded with them ).





From: Nate vwna...@yahoo.com

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Mon, January 17, 2011 8:08:09 AM

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 5 Speed Trannies



  



IIRC ;



The Brand 'F' Fiesta 5 speed box is a popular AD upgrade , cheap too as the 

junkyards are loaded with them .



Ask Patric ~ he's right in Az. with you

.

-Nate

Charlie Asked :



Do any of yall have some sources for obtaining an after market five speed

trannie for our AD's?     I sure would like to consider putting one in RED

RYDER.

Thanks All,  Charlie in beautiful AZ



      



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Yikes

2011-01-05 Thread James Tye
Crap likes to accumulate in the block drain plug.  I've seen some you had to 
break it up with a screwdriver.  I would recommend you finish the build and 
when it is complete, simply back flush real good.

--- On Wed, 1/5/11, fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net wrote:

From: fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Yikes
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 5, 2011, 7:32 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  So, I'm just going out into the shop a bit each evening, cleaning here or 
there on the 261 that's safely on a stand.  I decided to take the plug out at 
the rear left side that I assume is the coolant drain hole.  I turned the plug 
once with my ratchet, and it just sort of twisted off.  Actually, it was more 
like -- fell off.  I stuck a probe into the hole, expecting to feel the hard 
end of the broken plug, and only found the hole to be filled with a black ooze. 
 It has sat overnight, and what has accumulated on the floor looks to be part 
coolant and part, well, not.  Am I looking at a surefire sign that there's a 
crack in this block and that oil and coolant are living together?  



Mike Fahrbach






 





 



  










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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 8V battery?

2011-01-05 Thread James Tye
They used to make such a battery, but where are you gonna find one now?  You 
were going to drive the truck to work...why not just do a 12 volt 
changeover and then your lights will be brighter and the way these stupid SOB's 
drive these days you need all the help you can get to be seen and to see.

--- On Wed, 1/5/11, fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net wrote:

From: fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 8V battery?
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 5, 2011, 7:35 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  I was going to drive my '51 3600 to work yesterday, and the 6V that was 
in the truck when I bought it apparently bought it.  I had a guy tell me today 
that I should put in an 8V battery, as it will crank the motor just a little 
faster when starting, and won't do any damage to anything electrical.  Does 
this guy know what he's talking about?



Mike Fahrbach






 





 



  










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Re: Fw: [old-chevy-truck] oil line in rockers

2010-12-29 Thread James Tye
That actually forces all the oil to go down the rocker shafts and lubricate the 
rockers.  I've seen plenty that way and it shouldn't be an issue

--- On Wed, 12/29/10, David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Fw: [old-chevy-truck] oil line in rockers
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 29, 2010, 6:33 PM















 
 



  



  
  
  



--- On Wed, 12/29/10, David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com wrote:



From: David Baylis dbay2...@yahoo.com

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] oil line in rockers

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Date: Wednesday, December 29, 2010, 6:23 PM



  



I have an oil line under the rocker cover that is pinched off. I'm I getting 
oil to the rockers, they didn't make noise when I had the truck running last 
summer. The head  is #3835913. I could use some advice. I'm sending a pictures 
along.  Thank you Dave



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






 





 



  










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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Generator dismantle

2010-11-10 Thread James Tye
I think A when I get back home I could probably find a generator in the bone 
pile and B It would likely fit in a USPS large flat rate box.  You would 
probably have to put new brushes and lube the bearings but you may be money 
ahead to just get a better core.

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, K Ohlgren kjohlg...@hotmail.com wrote:


From: K Ohlgren kjohlg...@hotmail.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Generator dismantle
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 10:57 AM



if the bearing froze and spun the bearing in the al housing it may have welded 
its self in there
you have nothing to loose by beating it out of there with a hammer
use a board over the shaft

Kurt 
58 3100 Apache project 
the Duracell Project it keeps going... and going...
When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out 
like everyone else in the car.









To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
From: mfahrb...@hughes.net
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 18:36:20 +
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Generator dismantle


  



I'm disassembling my generator since it appears a bearing has frozen, and now 
knowing anything about the inside of this original factory unit, I figure I 
have nothing to lose by taking it apart and seeing if I can remedy something. 
I'm having trouble getting the housing of that bearing to slide off the shaft. 
I have taken the key out, and slid a ring out, and I expected everything else 
to slide off, but it won't. Is it frozen on? I'm certain that bearing is 
toasted, but if that is it's only issue, I think I might salvage this thing.

Mike Fahrbach



              

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] air cleaner question

2010-11-08 Thread James Tye
I usually use Kerosene but Diesel should work just as well.

--- On Mon, 11/8/10, Mike Burns mp.bu...@frontier.com wrote:


From: Mike Burns mp.bu...@frontier.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] air cleaner question
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 8, 2010, 6:09 AM


  



I recently picked up an oil bath air cleaner for my 40 half ton. The element
inside is caked up with sludge, and I'd like to clean it up real well before
using it. It doesn't appear to come apart. So, my question is: What's the
best way to clean it?

I thought about soaking it in lacquer thinner, or gasoline but thought I'd
check the list first. Lacquer thinner is getting very pricey.

Thanks

Mike

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Running board finish

2010-10-11 Thread James Tye
hm.you're worried about the originality of the running board, 
but not the spare tire rim?  Oh well, the running boards were black on all 
trucks, and there was an optional step plate..

--- On Mon, 10/11/10, Carl Nord chn...@comcast.net wrote:


From: Carl Nord chn...@comcast.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Running board finish
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 10:27 AM


  



RE: 1950 3/4 ton GMC

My truck came to me painted all red including the running boards. I am under
the impression that they were originally a semi gloss black regardless of
the color.
Anyway I took it to the local body shop and he questioned if the original
was a black ribbed rubber. I have not seen that in any of the restoration
catalogs but I thought I would throw the question out to the group.

I am getting ready to mount the spare tire rim on the side of the truck. Any
thoughts on putting it on the left or right?

Thanks for your input


Carl
WA1KPD
Visit My Boatanchor Collection at
http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html
http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Running board finish

2010-10-11 Thread James Tye
I had a '48 Chevy with rubber on the running board such as the running board 
was.  Seems like I remember seeing some cars out of the thirties had them as 
well, though most of that vintage was off the road when I walked the earth, 
thanks in large part to a local man named Bill Harrah

--- On Mon, 10/11/10, corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:


From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Running board finish
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 10:34 AM


  



I seem to remember something about this from 30+ years ago.

The rubber on the running boards was for cars .at least when they had
running boards. .bill in corvallis

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carl Nord
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 10:27 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Running board finish

RE: 1950 3/4 ton GMC

My truck came to me painted all red including the running boards. I am under
the impression that they were originally a semi gloss black regardless of
the color.
Anyway I took it to the local body shop and he questioned if the original
was a black ribbed rubber. I have not seen that in any of the restoration
catalogs but I thought I would throw the question out to the group.

I am getting ready to mount the spare tire rim on the side of the truck. Any
thoughts on putting it on the left or right?

Thanks for your input
Carl

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Off topic, but I don't know where else to ask

2010-10-10 Thread James Tye
I had an engine hoist that the side straps did not match the holes.  Ended up 
welding them.  I know the 12 ton press needs welded or it just isn't solid 
enough for some jobs.  I have the remmants of another hoist being used to 
support a '49 Chevy cab in my garage.  The rollers at least work.  What got me 
started, tho was when I had to do a thing to my Bondo file before I could get 
it right with the world as my bondo hardened on my '48 2 ton fender.  There!  
worked it to on topic!  If there is not such a group, perhaps we should start 
one.
 
As far as statuary goes, well...(oh boy, I'm gonna work this on topic 
again;-)...I have some valves left over from a valve job.  Exhaust valves 
and I did an unleaded conversionthese would make great eyes!
 
How about a mailbox holder statue fountain that has the top part of US parts 
into a robot of another robot on the bottom of Chinese parts.  The fountain 
comes in...well...

--- On Sun, 10/10/10, william clark w...@q.com wrote:


From: william clark w...@q.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Off topic, but I don't know where else to ask
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 10, 2010, 7:42 AM


  



Bill in Corvallis,

Good idea, Bill. Don't know where you would start but I will be watching your 
progress.. I quess the first place to start and I'm sure you have done this but 
I would be interested in searching Harbor Freight's catalog and others for the 
many likely candidates.

Bill in Florence 

- Original Message - 
From: corval...@peoplepc.com 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 4:06 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Off topic, but I don't know where else to ask

Maybe do statuary. .bill in Corvallis

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watts_towers

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of James Tye
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 10:38 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Off topic, but I don't know where else to ask

I am interested in joining an existing group dedicated to taking the Chinese
stuff that is on the market and making it into something actually useful and
lasting. I have had to do this with Harbor Freight tools on a regular basis
and I am interested in comparing notes with those who have done likewise.

My apologies to those who think I should only discuss Chevy trucks here, but
you must have tools to fix up the Chevies and as a friend of mine who worked
in a machine shop said, if you don't have good tools, you're not gonna do
good work.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

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[old-chevy-truck] Off topic, but I don't know where else to ask

2010-10-09 Thread James Tye

I am interested in joining an existing group dedicated to taking the Chinese 
stuff that is on the market and making it into something actually useful and 
lasting.  I have had to do this with Harbor Freight tools on a regular basis 
and I am interested in comparing notes with those who have done likewise.
 
My apologies to those who think I should only discuss Chevy trucks here, but 
you must have tools to fix up the Chevies and as a friend of mine who worked in 
a machine shop said, if you don't have good tools, you're not gonna do good 
work.
 
Can anyone point me in the right direction?

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 57 235 oiling questions

2010-09-14 Thread James Tye
That's kinda what I thought, but this guy insists he's got a '57 GMC 235.  Me 
being right won't fix his oiling problem, however.  Since he knows more than I 
do about it, evidently, I have elected to keep quiet and learn. 

--- On Tue, 9/14/10, Rick nline...@gmail.com wrote:


From: Rick nline...@gmail.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 57 235 oiling questions
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 2010, 10:13 AM


  



GMC made a 228, 248, 270, and a 302.

Sent from my HTC Tilt™ 2, a Windows® phone from ATT

-Original Message-
From: James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 9:51
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 57 235 oiling questions

GMC did not make a 235 engine.  I think GMC made 225,270, and such, so I would 
check my numbers on both block and head, mike the cylinders, and know what you 
have, then work with it.  A 57 235 would have been hydraulic lifters, but I can 
not say what GMC had.

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 57 235 oiling questions

2010-09-14 Thread James Tye

Would it make a difference in the '57 GMC engine if that special headbolt that 
has a hole in it going out through the side were not where it is supposed to 
be.  When I redid the head on dad's 51 Chevy I put that bolt back where it came 
out, seems like it was in the number one or two spot.  It had a groove in the 
top.  Anyway the oiler worked fine but I have seen 235s that didn't have that 
and didn't oil.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 57 235 oiling questions

2010-09-12 Thread James Tye

GMC did not make a 235 engine.  I think GMC made 225,270, and such, so I would 
check my numbers on both block and head, mike the cylinders, and know what you 
have, then work with it.  A 57 235 would have been hydraulic lifters, but I can 
not say what GMC had.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Alternator not charging

2010-09-11 Thread James Tye

I use a DA plug from Patrick's.  One wire goes back into the alternator, I 
think the yellow one goes up to where the bat wire was on the voltage 
regulator.  The other two wires from the voltage regulator get hooked 
together.  The directions come with the DA plug.

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[old-chevy-truck] electricals

2010-09-09 Thread James Tye

Who isn't talking about trucks?I pulled the saddle tank off my parts 2 ton to 
put behind the one on my 48 2 tonand it is too long and will have to go 
on the other side! I, too have an electric tank switcher and I think it does go 
to the fuel gage which will have a runtz resistor.  I am considering the 
possibility of installing a modern fuse box under  the black fuse box cover so 
it looks stock unless you take the fuse cover off.  Has anyone tried this caper 
or am I pioneering?

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[old-chevy-truck] oil pan

2010-09-08 Thread James Tye
Spending more time under the 2 ton is starting to pay off.  I noticed a drip in 
the oil pan, probably at the plug.  This plug is already a triple oversize, 
so...who has an extra 235 oil pan about '57 vintage preferably single 
oversize so I can use a magnetic drain plug.  I am in the 64601 zip code, 
Chillicothe, MO
 
Thanks
 
James Tye

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: trumpet horns

2010-09-06 Thread James Tye
Thanks.  That cleared things up some.  The one set of horns I took off a '49 
Chevy truck in a snow storm back in 88.  They were on the driver side fender 
well and the wire did indeed go inside.  The set that was on my 2 
ton...they were on angle brackets mounted to the firewall, clearly not 
stock.  The part that does look stock is a flattish mount , but with the 
leaker (the temperature control for the fresh air heater) in place there 
would be no way to mount it on the 48 2 ton on the firewall that I can see.  So 
the question becomes how did the trumpet horns mount on a '48 2 ton?

From: ccpanel ccpa...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: trumpet horns
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, September 6, 2010, 9:24 AM


  



not sure what style you are talking about.
OEM there are differences between years and between chevy/GMC.
early up till the 49 year split the horns were on passenger side firewall above 
heater. then im not sure where they moved to.
also there were the ones mounted to intake manifold.

you can tell years apart by wiring too. early had wire going into interior of 
horn. later years had an external lug to bolt wire to.

years vary based on mounting bracket shape and configuration. 

my 55.5 has a pair of horns the when mounted, curl and face forward on either 
side of radiator. they are a left and a right-not to be swapped.
Mark

--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, James Tye dazys...@... wrote:

 
 Can anyone share knowlege about the aftermarket trumpet horns I've seen on AD 
 trucks?� I have 2 sets, but don't know howthey were mounted or where, or 
 who made them.� Anything, therefore, is more than I knew to begin with.
 �
 Thanks
 �
 James Tye
 
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[old-chevy-truck] trumpet horns

2010-09-05 Thread James Tye

Can anyone share knowlege about the aftermarket trumpet horns I've seen on AD 
trucks?  I have 2 sets, but don't know howthey were mounted or where, or who 
made them.  Anything, therefore, is more than I knew to begin with.
 
Thanks
 
James Tye

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] truck finished! hood latch issues

2010-08-23 Thread James Tye
Is the spring on the latching hook in good order?  I know both my 2 tons need 
this spring and it's one part they haven't got around to making!



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[old-chevy-truck] Spindle wheel bearing interaction

2010-08-22 Thread James Tye

The daggone inner wheel bearing won't go over my spindle on my 48 Chevy 2 ton.  
I blued everything up and it seems to be a problem of the spindle is simply too 
large for the new bearing by enough to where it won't go on.  Did they make 
bearings that way in the days of old so they would have to be machined for a 
precise fit?  This is a NOS bearing.  There is no way to take the truck or the 
axle to a macchinist now.  The bearings fits the hub but not the spindle though 
the old one fit right.  The old one was so pitted I couldn't believe the wheel 
turned at all! How can I correct this so the bearing will fit properly?


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Engine swap Question

2010-08-21 Thread James Tye
On the con side, a 250 or 292 would be better.  On the pro side, V8 conversion 
mounts should work, since those year cars were designed for either engine.


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--- On Sat, 8/21/10, Ron rsi...@cox.net wrote:


From: Ron rsi...@cox.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Engine swap Question
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 4:59 AM


  



I have a 54 1/2 ton with an engine in an unknown condition and missing things 
like carbs, air filter, generator, coil, etc. I have a chance to get a later 
model 230 6 cylinder from an early 60's Nova. I realize this isn't keeping it 
stock, but I'm curious if others may have done something similiar and how much 
work will it be. I assume that engine mounts may need to be changed and the 
transmission may not be a direct swap either. And I probably can't keep the 
foot starter.

Any suggestions pro or con would be appreciated.

Ron








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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: initial static timing settings

2010-08-20 Thread James Tye
of course if good friend smoky stops by to see if you need help and sees that 
cigarette paper, it could go south on you!



--- On Thu, 8/19/10, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:


From: Nate vwna...@yahoo.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: initial static timing settings
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, August 19, 2010, 8:30 PM


  




I you connect a test light from the points wire to ground  turn on the 
ignition , loosen the dizzy's pinch clamp a little bit and turn it until the 
lamp goes out then s-l-o-w-l-y turn it back until the lamp *just* lights and 
you're ready to start it up and double check with a dynamic timing light .

If you're far from home and don't have any test or timing light , put a bit of 
cigarette paper between the points and adjust the dizzy so you can _barely_ 
draw it out without ripping it when the ball  pointer are lined up .

Boy , that's an old trick , glad I don't have to use it anymore .

I hope this helped .

-Nate
Mike wrote:

 This is a 1940 216. The #1 piston is up on the compression stroke. The
 timing pointer is on the flywheel ball. My question now is: Where should the
 distributor be set. Should the points be set wide open, or just ready to
 open, or where?
 
 
 
 Thanks
 
 Mike
 
 
 
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[old-chevy-truck] Chevy TF(?) sunvisor....Chillicothe, MO

2010-07-23 Thread James Tye

I don't mean to spam.  I have a sunvisor I think is for a TF truck.  It is 
steel and for a one piece windshield.  It looks like it would fit on under the 
rubber window seal if that makes any sense. I've taken no pictures yet, I was 
cleaning the shed to make room for some Volkswagen doors I plan to list on the 
auction site and there it was.  I reckon I'll list it, too, but I'm giving 
first crack at it here.

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] part numbers

2010-07-22 Thread James Tye
Thanks!  I got a grease deflector ordered from Obsolete Chevrolet Parts Co.Not 
much luck finding 5,858 3650731 cap or 5.820 3686852 but I may rob these off 
another truck I was going to knock in the head anyway.  Bythe by, does anyone 
know if Lysol is corrosive?  I will be cleaning mouse poo out of my headliner 
area and I thought I might spray a Lysol mixture in the crevices rather than 
the more corrosive bleach., then follow up with a coat of POR 15 before putting 
insulation where the tar paper was on the roof panel.


Rinji news o moshiagemasu!
Rinji news o moshiagemasu!
Godzilla ga ginza hoomen e mukatte imasu!
Daishkyu hinan shite kudasai!
Daishkyu hinan shite kudasai!

--- On Wed, 7/21/10, corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:


From: corval...@peoplepc.com corval...@peoplepc.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] part numbers
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, July 21, 2010, 4:57 PM


  



Here is the seal on eBay; I'll guess your local parts store will also have
it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=150468161368
item=150468161368

Here is the deflector on eBay, but you'll have to buy a bunch of other stuff
with it. Check at your parts store first but I'll guess it is worth it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200497768098
item=200497768098

Keep ahold of that 1948 2-ton. I wrenched on one in the late 1960's. Damn
good rig. .bill in corvallis

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 4:45 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] part numbers

Inner (front) wheel seal is section 6.326 felt (probably 3650735)

Deflector is 6.323 (probably 3650733)

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/06/376.HTM

This is even a better picture:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/06/379.HTM

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/06/391.HTM
_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of James Tye
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 8:24 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] part numbers

I'm needing some help with part numbers. I need a part number for an inner
wheel seal and a grease deflector for a 1948 Chevy 2 ton. I do have a pars
manual for a 54, but I can't seem to find wheel bearing illustration. The
grease deflector is the thin round steel piece that goes just before wheel
seal.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] part numbers

2010-07-22 Thread James Tye
I had never thought of using enzymes, but I used them quite alot when I was a 
custodian for desmelling carpets and such.  If there was one I could mix in a 
bucket of water and spray with an engine cleaner air sprayer that would be 
great.  My main concern is the corrosion bleach will cause, this I know from my 
custodial days, too, though frequently I did use about a pint or so to 10 
gallons of water to clean carpets.
 
Obsolet Chevrolet parts co had the other parts I needed as well and I'm still 
looking for 5.820 3686852, the outher ring that goes under the lug nuts on a 2 
ton truck.



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[old-chevy-truck] part numbers

2010-07-21 Thread James Tye

I'm needing some help with part numbers.  I need a part number for an inner 
wheel seal and a grease deflector for a 1948 Chevy 2 ton.  I do have a pars 
manual for a 54, but I can't seem to find wheel bearing illustration.  The 
grease deflector is the thin round steel piece that goes just before wheel seal.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[old-chevy-truck] another part

2010-07-21 Thread James Tye


Would anyone know where to find 8708151, a connector which ran from the valve 
cover and air cleaner and to which a hose was clamped.  This was usually used 
on PCV equipped engines and you occasionally run across an air cleaner with one 
still on it.  I need to connect my air filter to my valve cover.  When I took 
off the head on dad's truck, the rocker seemed like the cleanest rocker I had 
seen in a long time.  The down tube was still in use, but I see ventilating the 
valve cover with clean air as a good thing.

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] cam shaft oiler

2010-07-19 Thread James Tye
I'd try Chev's of the 40's first.  That thing I thought was a rocker oiler.  
Brought oil to the rocker arm shaft and it dripped down through the pushrod 
tube holes and lubed the camshaft on the way back to the oil pan.  Are we on 
the same page? 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Dual Carbs set up?

2008-10-27 Thread James Tye
You might try color tuning.  It's a thing that goes in ahead of the spark plug 
and you tune in the color of the flame



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Mon, 10/27/08, luke_the_drifter52 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: luke_the_drifter52 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Dual Carbs set up?
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, October 27, 2008, 8:47 AM






I have been thinking about getting a dual manifold and puting dual 
carbs on my 1952 Chevy. But, I have heard horror stories that tuning 
dual carbs are nothing but a pain in the butt. Yet, I see alot of dual 
carb set ups in the pics. Is there a meter I can use to set the carbs 
correctly if I go that way? If not, what is the secret to tuninig dual 
carbs? Is the gas milage better with dual carbs opposed to the single 
carb.?
John

 













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Re: [old-chevy-truck] a voting issue

2008-10-27 Thread James Tye
aw, co'mon, dude!  They jumped all over my arse for saying stuff like that and 
I was just joking.  Now here you come with non truck related and nada..I 
thinks maybe y'all just didn't like what I had to say so you flame me to shut 
me up.  Suddenly I cease to feel kinship and maybe this is not the group for 
me.  good bye



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Mon, 10/27/08, mark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] a voting issue
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
[EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Monday, October 27, 2008, 10:57 AM






I have very strong feelings on a california ballot measure. if you want to 
message me offlist-i can provide a video that emphasizes and reinforces that 
issue. 
Actually its an issue that you may be voting on in your state too.
email me and i will send you a link.
Obviously I dont want to even mention the issue here as this is not the right 
forum but i am using this forum to reach as many people as i can.
and no-this has ZERO to do with president.
Mark

 













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Re: [old-chevy-truck] flatbed

2008-10-26 Thread James Tye
I confess I'm alittle perplexed.  Obviously a staunch republican.  You have a 
problem in putting a flat bed on your AD truck.throw some money at it!  
As a republican I'm sure you must have plenty of that, not that historically 
the rest of us would, lets see..1929, 1974, 1980's  we ran a budget surplus 
in 1999 and now this under the watch ofdare I say it.a reublican! 
heh heh heh



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Sun, 10/26/08, mark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] flatbed
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED], 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 1:21 AM






if you have or have built a flatbed for your AD truck-please send me one 
picture and describe what you would do different if at all.
i need to make one for this project and looking for ideas.
thanks!

http://www.johnmcca in.com/palin. htm

 













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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: flatbed

2008-10-26 Thread James Tye
Flame Flame Flame  Seeing as how I was joking and all it don't bother me a 
bit.  I get cussed worse by the inmates in ad seg.  But that last post kind of 
got to me and so I felt I had to set the record straight.  The name Tye is 
originated in the UK.  My descended from Joshua Tye came from England and 
settled in Kentucky in the early 1800s  And I drive a '49 Chevy truck.  Daily



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Sun, 10/26/08, Pesch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Pesch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: flatbed
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 9:55 AM






ditto its all about the rides, please!
- Original Message - 
From: rob rambler 
To: old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com 
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: flatbed

Damn right, those opinions don't belong here, and with a name like Tye he 
probably drives a Jap truck

--- On Sun, 10/26/08, ccpanel [EMAIL PROTECTED] com wrote:

From: ccpanel [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: flatbed
To: old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 11:41 AM

TOTALLY inappropriate and NOT related to trucks. You dont know me, you
dont know my situation and you should apologize as the mud you sling
might get all over your throwing arm. Be kind-not rude.
NOT in the spirit of the group and NOT helpful!
Moderator?

--- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, James Tye jimandtess@ ... wrote:

 I confess I'm alittle perplexed.� Obviously a staunch republican.�
You have a problem in putting a flat bed on your AD
truck... ..throw some money at it!� As a republican I'm sure you
must have plenty of that, not that historically the rest of us would,
lets see..1929, 1974, 1980's� we ran a budget surplus in 1999 and
now this under the watch ofdare I say it.a reublican!!! !! heh
heh heh
 
 
 
 This country isn't free
 If all that you can ever be
 Is just a lousy janitor
 Unless your uncle owns the store
 �
 --Frank Zappa
 
 --- On Sun, 10/26/08, mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]  wrote:
 
 From: mark [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] flatbed
 To: Old_ChevroletGMCTru [EMAIL PROTECTED] com,
old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] .,
oldcoetrucks@ yahoogroups. com
 Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 1:21 AM
 
 
 
 
 
 
 if you have or have built a flatbed for your AD truck-please send me
one picture and describe what you would do different if at all.
 i need to make one for this project and looking for ideas.
 thanks!
 
 http://www.johnmcca in.com/palin. htm
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: June's New Truck

2008-10-26 Thread James Tye
I have some experience with mousey trucks.  First wear gloves and a face mask.  
Eye protection wouldn't hurt either when handling those seats.  They need to go 
to bare springs and a trip to the car wash or sandblaster wouldn't hurt.  The 
area under the seat will need cleaned out as well and de rusted and repainted.  
How is it under the headliner and in the posts by the windshield?  It's 
downright hard to get the mouse smell out of a truck.  Mothballs will help keep 
the mice out in the future.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Sun, 10/26/08, Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: June's New Truck
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 10:07 AM






Too bad youaren't a little closer to me. I have an extra that I would let go 
for cheap. Shipping would take it back up to costing what you could get yours 
re-done for. Ask around at the local upholstery shops. It may not be as bad as 
you think. By the way..be very careful if/when you pull the headliner 
down..that is their second favorite place.

Roy
- Original Message - 
From: Pesch 
To: old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com 
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: June's New Truck

my seat made a good shelter for mice. any ideas on a low budget replacement?
- Original Message - 
From: Pesch 
To: old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com 
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: June's New Truck

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Carbs and such

2008-10-25 Thread James Tye
There was a YF made specifically for the 235 but most are for the 216.  I have 
an aluminum adapter that lets you put a 216 carb on a 235.  I've only seen the 
one in my lifetime, but it could be fabricated at a good machine shop.  I'll 
post a picture of it on my blog site when I get a round tuit.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Sat, 10/25/08, hooptypickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: hooptypickle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Carbs and such
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, October 25, 2008, 10:49 AM






Anybody know if the Carter YF will work on a 235? 

Trevor

--- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] . 
wrote:

 I have two Carter YFs I just had professionally rebuilt to put 
back on my ol splasher 216 with its dual intake manifold. I also 
have two new bakelite insulators and two new gaskets with the 
notches to match the notches on the insulators. Now for the 
questions. 
 
 1) How do be absolutely sure I have no leaks between the intake 
manifold and the insulators? I understand no gasket goes there. The 
manifold appears nice and clean and is probably machined quite flat. 
However, I want to be SURE there is no leakge there. No sealers? no 
gaskets? Nothing?
 
 2) What are those notches in the insulators actually for? They 
don't seem to go anywhere and there isn't any matching holes or 
notches on the carby bases.
 
 3) The folks who did the re-build (Carburetors USA) sent along two 
thin gaskets that each have a small hole but have no notches for the 
insulator notches  Again, there isn't anything like a hole in 
the carby bases and that little hole doesn't seem to line up with 
anything anywhere I can see.
 
 Thanks for any ideas, help, or advice.
 
 Roy
 '51 3600
 The Sleepy Dragon
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 235 harmonic balancer

2008-10-24 Thread James Tye
In order to use one on an AD truck, with the short water pump, you would have 
to go to an electric fan as the fan will hit on the balancer pulley otherwise.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Fri, 10/24/08, Ken Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Ken Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] 235 harmonic balancer
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 12:59 PM






Bob
My Dad had '55 Chev 235 with a bolt on pulley for an after market A/C Unit. 
When he sold it I put the whole thing on my '61 chev PU. The pulley just bolted 
on the original harmonic balancer. I bet Patricks in Arizona could help you. 
www.patricksantique trucks.com 
Ken

Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] edu wrote:
I would like to add an extra belt somewhere in the mix to power either
a steering pump or AC. Does anyone know of or heard of a vendor that
might have a two (or more) slot harmonic balancer that would fit a
235? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob in NorCal

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Brake troubles.

2008-10-08 Thread James Tye
A '53 would have the bendix style brakes.  I have had similar problems getting 
the shoe off, but the lining must have plenty of meat left.  You might could 
get away with using soap as a lubricant, oil I wouldn't use unless the shoes 
were getting replaced anyway.  If you ever get the shoe off, the self adjusting 
brake hardware off a 69 half ton will be a drop in fit and save you from having 
to adjust brakes.  I have been running this setup for years now without ever 
having to manually adjust the brakes.  Of course I put some never seez on the 
threads of the starwheel adjuster so that it wouldn't lock up from corrosion.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Wed, 10/8/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Brake troubles.
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wednesday, October 8, 2008, 11:23 AM







Hi Scott,

As Jeffrey pointed out, if the drums turn they are not 
stuck to the shoes but there still could be deep wear 
grooves trapping the drum on the shoe. That is 
probably the case if the drums can be wiggled a little 
but not removed.

If the drum turns but cannot be wiggled at all, it 
probably is rusted to the axle flange in back, or the 
hub in front. Some PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst 
squirted around the base of the studs and allowed 
to sit overnight might do the trick.

Good Luck!
Dennis
1953 1/2 ton, Irvine, CA

- Original Message - 

Brake troubles. 

Posted by: Scott Snow [EMAIL PROTECTED] com socal_stovebolt 
Tue Oct 7, 2008 3:17 pm (PDT) 

I started work on my grandfathers 1953 chevy 1/2 ton pickup
a few weeks ago. I rebuilt the master cylinder and now I am 
ready to rebuild the wheel cylinders but I can not remove the 
brake drums. The truck has been parked in a garage in the 
desert for ten years now. I backed the shoes off as far as the 
adjuster would go. I spent about an hour and a half punding 
and prying. Are there any tricks out there that could help me.
-socal scott

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer installation

2008-09-23 Thread James Tye
My dad always used a rawhide mallet.  You don't do any damage to the balancer 
that way.  He has been driving a '51 Chevy since 1960, put ab out 40 miles 
on the one he's got, which had 29000 on it when he got it.  He always did his 
own mechanic work and his neighbor's too, so I reckon he knew what he was doing.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

--- On Tue, 9/23/08, Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Harmonic balancer installation
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2008, 4:20 AM






OK...there several messages we got the thing off, what is the proper procedure 
to get it back on? It appears to be an interference fit which would suggest 
maybe a little heat and a few taps with a hammer. However, tapping on the end 
of a cranckshaft just doesn't seem like a good idea to me. 

Roy Marks
'51 3600
The Sleepy Dragon

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] $$$ FREE $$$ FREE STOCK TIPS BY FREE SMS.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

2008-09-23 Thread James Tye
Not you again!!!  I thought I hijacked this thread.  Dad blame it all.  Oh, 
well here goes. Is there a powder coater in the house?  I live in the sticks 
and it's cheaper to send out than to drive forever to the city to get it done.



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] $$$ FREE $$$ FREE STOCK TIPS BY FREE SMS............................

2008-09-22 Thread James Tye
I don't believe this thread is going anywhere, so I will demonstrate ill 
manners to the illmannered spammer and steal it.  The front fender brace, the 
one by the lower portionwell the tab is busted off.  Anyone know a slick 
little trick to repair it?



This country isn't free
If all that you can ever be
Is just a lousy janitor
Unless your uncle owns the store
 
--Frank Zappa

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re:Political Comments

2008-09-06 Thread James Tye
I reckon it was the moderator himself that started the thread.  I reckon he 
made his position clear when we signed on.  I'm a vet, too.  I was too young 
for Viet Nam; signed my papers at 17 in Oakland AFEES to join the Marines and 
they were evacuating Saigon.  That said, I have kept my yap shut about how I 
feel about political and war stuff.  I reckon if it were my group I would speak 
my mind, but I'm a guest here.  Am I wrong in assuming that this thread gives 
us license to speak our mind as well?  Maybe it should be a once a year thing.  
Mr. moderator has been real good about keeping the spam down.  Maybe the 
concept that we discuss strictly Old Chevy trucks is in conflict with basic 
human nature and too formal for a friendly list that we are.  Anyone have tips 
on mounting Fentons with a stock mainifold?  I have an aluminum plate that was 
for water but I want to exhaust gas cool it by using compression elbows.  Until 
now I haven't had much
 luck with the tube bending.  Also could someone describe in detail the mods to 
the mounting tabs?
 


 


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle for 
survival.
 Billy Jack
 
WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
-Anonymous truck driver
 
It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
Sweetietheswede

--- On Sat, 9/6/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re:Political Comments
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 6, 2008, 9:10 AM






Dedicated to the preservation and restoration of stock 1941-1959 Chevy and 
GMC trucks. KEEP IT STOCK!This list is supposed top be about old trucks. 
There probably is a place for it but If the political content continues here 
I'll cancel my subscription.
Dennis 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Moving the rearend

2008-08-30 Thread James Tye
This will put the rear end where it was with a stock rear end.  If you put a 
load on the front end won't get light.  I used a 3/8 inch relocator plate so 
the rear end still sits on a pin where it should.  And yes, I put a load on 
mine quite regular.  Never ceases to amaze me that people will whine about 
people on welfare not earning a living at the same time pampering their trailer 
queen, never driving it, keeping it in a garage.  Mine works for a living same 
as me.




When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle for 
survival.
 Billy Jack
 
WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
-Anonymous truck driver
 
It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
Sweetietheswede

--- On Sat, 8/30/08, JZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: JZ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Moving the rearend
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 30, 2008, 10:41 AM






I need to move the differential back to be centered in my rear wheel wells. I 
have an open drive train with a 10 bolt rearend. It needs to move about 3 
inches to be centered. I will then no longer be directly over the leafspring 
pin. What would be the problem with that and any solutions?
JZ

James Zorn

[EMAIL PROTECTED] net

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] '48 235

2008-08-23 Thread James Tye
Firing order is 153624 rotation is clockwise, point gap is a matchbook cover or 
about .019-.022




When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle for 
survival.
 Billy Jack
 
WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
-Anonymous truck driver
 
It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
Sweetietheswede

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Rob Rambler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

From: Rob Rambler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] '48 235
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 4:10 PM






can one of you old timers tell me what the timing should be set at for 
my '48 2 ton truck, and the firing order, i suppose the plug and point 
gap will help too, the old beast seems to be running on 2 cylinders, it 
had been sitting in a barn for 20 years before i bought it, thought I'd 
start with the basics before assuming there's something major wrong, i 
plan on checking the compression while i have the plugs pulled 
too. thanks

 













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Re: [old-chevy-truck] vin plate

2008-08-19 Thread James Tye
There are so many gray areas to obtain a title.  Having a receit for each and 
every part as in home built motorcycles, ITS title service.  I'd be afraid to 
sell you a vin plate as this would make me an accessory to something.  Door 
sill plates can be had at any restoration place, number stamps from any 
machinist supply place.  I had my old engine and the title with numbers on it.  
I took it to the highway patrol, got a receit for the new engine showed them 
what I had and they issued me a VIN of the 17 digit type, so my '49 with '52 
cab is titled legit.  The truck was also put together from scrap parts.  Find 
an engine that is blown or throwed a rod, stuck and as long as the title 
matches the number, you can title.  No need to risk impoundment by phonying up 
a door sill plate.

Brenda and Robert Greulich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  hi all im 
putting together a47-48 pick up from scrap parts and im looking for a old vin 
plate if anyone one they can part with 

thank you robert 39 md 3600 49 47-48 project

HAVE A GREAT DAY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack
   
  WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
  -Anonymous truck driver
   
  It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
  Sweetietheswede




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 261 full flow question

2008-08-13 Thread James Tye
OK  The oil pressure gage sender hooks on at the lower side of the block in the 
back.  Sometimes you have to add a fitting or a tee, but this is the the supply 
side.  The supplied side is in the side of the block and you have to remove a 
plug.  Why do you need a dual spin on filter when only about 10% of the oil 
gets filtered?  Are you running a PCV in conjunction with the filter?
   
  Mr. Gasket makes a spin on adapter that has an arrow to indicate flow. 
otherwise the oil goes through the middle of the filter,, through the fabric, 
and the outer side is going bck to the engine.

neals49 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I am finishing up my current sit up, adding a dual spin on oil filter 
I 
have left over from a old project, anyway does anyone know which is the 
output hole for the oil lines? Find lots of documentation on adding and 
or hooking up the oil filters but none state oil out and oil in? Nice 
thing to know on adding a filter I would think. By the way my engine is 
a 62 261 full flow with the large ports.

Thanks in advance for your help.



   


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack
   
  WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
  -Anonymous truck driver
   
  It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
  Sweetietheswede




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RE: [old-chevy-truck] tie rod ends

2008-08-13 Thread James Tye
That part is new, too.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  If you have the part that these screw into, 
check the threads there? .bill

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James Tye
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 11:44 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] tie rod ends

Got my new tie rod ends for my 48 2 ton. Unfortunately there was nothing to
identify left and right. One does have left hand thread, one right hand, but
which side goes where?

 Billy Jack

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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack
   
  WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
  -Anonymous truck driver
   
  It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
  Sweetietheswede




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Alternator Upgrade - Patrick's adaptor?

2008-08-08 Thread James Tye
Patrick has 2 different models, one is for alternator only and goes where the 
generator went.  The other is for air conditioning and the compressor goes 
where the alternator went and the alternator goes up by the water outlet on a 
special mount.

Bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  What is this Patrick's adaptor you 
mention. Is it a mounting bracket 
for the new alternator. If not are there any easily obtainable 
brackets out there that anyone could point me to. My ned is for a '58 
geny to alt conversion on a 235

--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 I just asked for one for an old Camaro with V-8 , like a '89 or 
so , 
 this will get you one with a 3/8 pulley and it'll be the 
internally 
 regulated typ .
 
 There's a later and greater typ called the  SI  but you need a 
good 
 parts guy to know what they come in , I don't , most have wide 
pulley 
 for serpentine belts , just swap the pulley over .
 
 -Nate
 Jim wrote:
 
  Would anyone have an Oreilly number for an alternator on a 12 
volt 
  conversion? Nothing fancy, just a stock reman alternator with a 
1/2 
  single pulley, probably for use on Patrick's adaptor. On another 
 note, 
  what size belt do you need if you use Patrick's air conditioner 
 adapter 
  that puts the alternator up by the water outlet and the 
compressor 
  where the generator used to be? Oh, and does anyone have the 
Oreilly 
  number for a compressor? This is going to be the last summer I 
do 
  without air and so what if it's going into a 2 ton!!
 




   


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack
   
  WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
  -Anonymous truck driver
   
  It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
  Sweetietheswede




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] looking for parts

2008-08-05 Thread James Tye
looks like I need an inner fender, too, right side, but I'm happier than 
hedouble toothpicks to have my tie rod.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Yup, I guess it's called a baffle, 1.286. I 
did come up with a tie rod and a pin I think will work. Still no luck with the 
ring.

Thanks 
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] looking for parts

Is the Splash Pan you're looking for the Baffle (1.286) in this image?

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/info/083.HTM

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dazysnow
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 2:26 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] looking for parts

I am looking for a splash pan for behind the grill for a '48 2 ton as 
well as a tie rod and a ring that goes under the lug nuts on the front 
wheel. I also need a pivot pin for the front brake. I hope someone 
can help.

James Tye
'48 2 ton

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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack
   
  WarningIf my signal is blinking, I'm not asking for permission
  -Anonymous truck driver
   
  It's not your age, your gender, your color or your race or even your 
religion.it's your behavior
  Sweetietheswede




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] oil filter

2008-02-21 Thread James Tye
There is an oil filter that fits the 216 and that's about it, but it's the 
aluminum one that bolts in at the oil distributor coverplate .  I forgot who 
made it or what it's name was, but I think a small company in NY made them.  
The other ones, that clamp on the manifold, or the beehive will fit eigher or 
and I've seen them on tractors besides.

Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  is the oil filter the same on a 216 
and a 235???
right now someone has the oil filter lines pluged on my 235 and i found 
the oil canister filter for a 216.



 


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Need a harmonic balancer

2008-02-18 Thread James Tye
Carter has them

Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I think I do mean the surface you 
speak of. I'll look around and see if I can find someone who has it. Thanks!

Roy

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Perry 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Need a harmonic balancer

Bushing?? You mean the surface the seal rides on? There is a repair sleeve 
available for that area. Most old-time auto parts have or can get. OR, a 
bearing shop. It comes with a tool as they call it, to push it on the old 
part. New surface for your new seal in cover! 
Would think most used balancers will have the groove from old seals in them, 
and not be any better than what you have now. 

Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My machine shop guy tells me the bushing on mine is shot. Anyone got a '51 or 
earlier harmonic balancer for a 216 they don't know what to do with? (need the 
kind that allows the use of the hand crank).

Roy

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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks
MM tractors

-
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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] `Vent window posts

2008-01-29 Thread James Tye
Sorry, I know we're friendly here and that's how I like it.  Thanks for the 
info.  some call me the Coroner (it's a long story about how I knew most of the 
lines from the Wizard of Oz and could do a prety good munchkin Coroner), some 
call me Sweetie the Swede, if I had my way I'd be on the road and driver 
would sound sweet.

Roy Marks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  You have the right idea about 
getting the vent window out of the frame. You have to grind off the little 
rivet. Most of the vendors like Classic Parts have a rivet and tool kit to put 
one back in. A little bit of a pain but it works. Get new channels, rubber, 
etc. from Steele rubber. Log onto eastwood.com for some really great coatings 
(and tools). You can clean up the doors the best you can then use Eastwoods 
rust converter inside the door to stabilize the rust that you can't get at, 
then use Eastwood's rust encapsulator to coat whats left and prevent future 
rust. This is all on the inside of the door I am talking about. Then patch the 
holes at the bottom interior side of the door and coat it with a little 
encapsulator before you prime. The division post can be cleaned up and painted 
with Eastwood's gloss chassis black. This stuff is the most durable paint I 
have ever seen. I am not trying to plug Eastwood but I have been
 extremely happy with their products. BTW..we sorta like to see a name at the 
bottom of a post. We're a friendly bunch.

Roy
'51 3600

- Original Message - 
From: dazysnow 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:18 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] `Vent window posts

Where to beginI am working on my 52 2 ton. Driver side door has 
quite a few holes where west coast mirrors have been hung. It will 
have a few more as soon as I can find a nice chrome set of west coast 
mirrors. Truck stops have parts, but the elusive mounts that go on the 
doorThe inside has rust at the bottom in the usual weatherstrip 
spot, and the outer reveal window moulding has a big dent. I have 
removed the door vent division post and have new glass more or less 
sitting in place to help keep rain out for the time being. So what is 
the best way to go about restoring the division post? It has some 
rust, the rubber is shot,and I don't think you can duplicate that type 
of paint unless maybe powder coating abut I live in the sticks and 
don't see too many powder coaters. How do you get the vent glass out? 
Do you just grind the rivet to get the vent frame out or is there a 
trick? Should I just yank the whole door and get it sandblasted and 
welded and then put it back? How would a seasoned restorer go about it 
bearing in mind the economy ain't so great?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Fulton question

2008-01-28 Thread James Tye
I found the link.  Maybe someone will put it in the links section, couldn;t 
hurt. http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/fultonsunshield.htm  It goes on to 
say for a '48 GMC to use hole 2 and go up 11 3/4 inches from the bottom of the 
drip rail.  I got the dogbones bolted in place, but it's supposed to be windy 
so I will probably put the main visor in the garage for a day or 2 but 
hopefully I will be back on the road soon.  I got put on medical suspension 
until I can get a sleep study performed and the medical world is in their usual 
state of slow motion.

Jones, Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  The right end of the front 
connecting yoke is dyed red. The right end
of the rear connecting yoke is dyed yellow. Dimension A is the
distance from the lower edge of the bracket foot to the bottom of post,
or rain gutter, while Dimension C is the distance from the upper edge
of bracket foot to the top of the cowl post. Hole 1 is the inner most
PAIR of holes, hole 2 is the next pair etc. Data for a 1947/1948
Thriftmaster is use HOLE #3 and dimension hole A or C is 12 3/4
inches.

This is from the installation instructions someone pasted on the net
several years ago. It may still be out there and worth googling as a
good-fitting installation of a Fulton can be pesky.

Can you post pictures of your installation? It would be fun to look at.
I picked a complete Fulton real cheap because the shades had a fair bit
of hail damage. I was able to shrink the aluminum with a torch and lots
of patience. So far no cracks! I think they look hideous but I still
like 'em.

Good luck.

Allen
'50 3100

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dazysnow
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 3:31 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Fulton question

On a Fulton visor there are two aluminum V pieces, on for the front, one
for the back color coded red and yellow appropriately. These are for
width adjustment. How many holes should be sticking out for mounting a
visor on an AD truck?

Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Fender turn signal lights

2008-01-06 Thread James Tye
I've done some more hunting and I think the critter I'm looking for is Signal 
Stat Model 8 (or maybe 10), but I think it falls in the old signal stat line.  
I shall now google signal stat and see what it turns up.  Thanks for the help.  
Nate?  I'll be someone knows.

Jeffrey Pohlar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I'm pretty sure I know which 
ones you are talking about. The forward and aft lens were separated by a 
center section which I would say were about 3 in length. I had a set on my 
truck but they were so badly rusted that I couldn't save them. The bad news is 
that I've kept my eyes out for modern equivalent lamps but haven't seen 
anything in my travels. Seems everything out there, Truck-Lite, Peterson, and 
Grote have lights similar but the lenses are basically back to back. 

Every once in a while I think about fabricating a set. With time and materials, 
I think they would cost me about $500. Oh well, maybe when I'm retired. Let us 
know if you find anything. 

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Arm rests

2007-11-10 Thread James Tye
Where are you getting your armrests and where are they breaking?  I have some 
old ones I have been thinking of taking the pad off and replacing it with a 
piece of oak, or perhaps making the whole armrest out of Oak.

rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I just broke my third cheapo repop 
arm rest...anybody got a pair of original ones they would part with? 

Thanks,
Roy

1951 3600
The Sleepy Dragon

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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Brake master cylinder 1948 Chev 3/4 ton

2007-11-07 Thread James Tye
Wonder... would it work with power assist on a '48 2 ton?  2 ton takes the same 
master as 3/4 ton

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I used an adapter from Pickups Northwest and 
a 70 Nova M/C.? I have bendix drums front and rear with no power assist.? 
Brakes have been fine for the 6-7 years it has been together.? Good Luck? Mike

-Original Message-
From: Sterling Muth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 4:55 pm
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Brake master cylinder 1948 Chev 3/4 ton

Hi All
I am planning on replacing the original single master cylinder brakes with a 
new more modern and safer unit. Any one have a sugestion I/E ease of 
instalation. cost, effectiveness, etc. ?

Thanks

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Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 47 Chevy Gas Tank Filler Neck

2007-10-13 Thread James Tye
Did you ever ge ahold of your filler neck?  I've got one but I'm not rightly 
sure where.

Eddie Mahon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I need a 47-48 Chevy Gas Tank 
Filler Neck that goes from the rubber 
inlet of the gas tank to the out side. I have the part that bolts onto 
the tank and the rubber hose/tube/flexible pipe that connects the two 
parts... I need the part that has the gas cap receiver. 
If you have one, please, call me (972) 758-9595, or 
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Thx.



 


When the police don't obey the law, then there is no law; only a struggle 
for survival.
   Billy Jack




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