Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
Shel Belinkoff wrote: Ho Paul, Because he wants an autofocus camera that's small enough and simple enough for his wife to use. He does want interchangeable lenses, as he might want to borrow some of mine some time, so fixed-lens PS cameras are out. He's happy with the ZX-7. What's auto wipe? ... Hello Shel, I can vouch for the Tokina 28-105 3.5/4.5. A couple years ago was the best third party 28-105 you could get. It is out of production by now but you can still find it new here and there. It's not easy to find used, probably because it's a keeper. Did you ever wonder why there are so many used Sigma 28-105/2.8 for sale? That one is real crap and the fast (relativeley) aperture is just bait... Is an heavy and rather big black lens, though, and I don't know if it would fit a ZX-7 nicely, if aesthetics are concerned. I wouldn't say any 28-200 lens would be really acceptable in quality and sturdiness but it's up to the person who uses it to judge. HTH, Flavio - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Vs: Re[2]: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
Excuse me, but what is MTBF? All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 05. tammikuuta 2002 1:50 Aihe: Re[2]: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question Kenneth, It certainly would be interesting to compare the MTBF of the motors of the PZ-1p and the ZX-5n. After using them both, I gotta believe the PZ-1p is higher. Bruce Dayton Friday, January 04, 2002, 4:11:27 PM, you wrote: KW I've had a failure of the motor on a PZ1 after several years of heavy usage KW (maybe 1500 - 2000 rolls of 36 exp, no home rolled), and also on a PZ1P KW after significantly less usage than the PZ1. The Pentax repair tech in KW Colorado said it was unusual, but not unexpected given the amount of usage. KW Ken Waller KW - Original Message - KW From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] KW To: Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] KW Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:16 PM KW Subject: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question Raimo, Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on motors. There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's. My guess is that the ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with better reliability, only worse. Bruce Dayton Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote: RK Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But KW does it really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell. KW Maybe the MZ series has less torque to improve RK longevity, who knows? RK Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had KW 3 motors. Many cameras have only one. RK All the best! RK Raimo RK Personal photography homepage at KW http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen RK -Alkuperäinen viesti- RK Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] RK Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] RK Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00 RK Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question Raimo, Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film? It doesn't roll in and out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff. I have several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's. When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch). The ZX's however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk rolled film. Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones. So I am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better than the ZX's. My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but not quite as strong as the PZ-1p. Hope this clears things up. Bruce Dayton - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Some buying advice
Thanks all for your advice, I phoned the guy and found out the MX already gone... BTW I already have a Program A but I'm not willing to part with it ;-). Ciao, Flavio - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Vs: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
A professional quality camera like the LX should be able to at least double that - 100.000 exposures is a minimum. All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 05. tammikuuta 2002 1:33 Aihe: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question I've had a failure of the motor on a PZ1 after several years of heavy usage (maybe 1500 - 2000 rolls of 36 exp, no home rolled), and also on a PZ1P after significantly less usage than the PZ1. The Pentax repair tech in Colorado said it was unusual, but not unexpected given the amount of usage. Ken Waller - Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:16 PM Subject: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question Raimo, Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on motors. There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's. My guess is that the ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with better reliability, only worse. Bruce Dayton Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote: RK Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But does it really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell. Maybe the MZ series has less torque to improve RK longevity, who knows? RK Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had 3 motors. Many cameras have only one. RK All the best! RK Raimo RK Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen RK -Alkuperäinen viesti- RK Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] RK Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] RK Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00 RK Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question Raimo, Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film? It doesn't roll in and out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff. I have several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's. When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch). The ZX's however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk rolled film. Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones. So I am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better than the ZX's. My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but not quite as strong as the PZ-1p. Hope this clears things up. Bruce Dayton - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).
Hi Malcolm, You might be able to get a new back (or perhaps bend your old one back into shape), that is assuming of course that the latch in the LX body isn't damaged? I would have a very close look at the latch as it engages to try and determine the cause of the fault. Cheers, Rob Studdert Thank you Rob, I suspect it is the latch. I have compared it to my MXs, nowhere near such a correct fit, I wonder if this has been caused by the extra weight of the data back? Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Odp: Odp: SFXn Manual
- Original Message - From: Len Paris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Odp: SFXn Manual I downloaded the Super Program manual from there and it is in English. It's a .pdf that is Zipped. I C. I downloaded the PZ-1p manual and it was unfortunately in Korean:( Greetz Artur - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Mz-M, basic Photography and some questions ..
Hi! I was going through the previous posts and two of them, one by Mr. Robb and one by Mr. Regan, reminded me of my own photographic adventures. Reagarding the post by Mr. Regan and some of the follow-ups: I too own a MZ-M. Though I have not seen much of a discussion about it here, from my limited experience I think it is a good start. It is my first and only SLR. It was the cheapest of all the newer models, so I bought it and used my money to buy lenses. MZ-M does offer DOF with all lenses. (I checked it just now). But the Camera has to be switched on. The only problem I found with MZ-M is the type of metering. It does matrix metering with the FA (and may be A ?) lenses and with the M-lenses does center weighted metering. I wish that Pentax had just used center weighted metering for all the lenses. Regarding the post of Mr. Robb regarding photographic equipment: I agree with you. I am a grad student and hence on a limited budget. Over a year I managed to put together the following kit: Body: MZ-M Lenses: 28/2.8 SMC-A 50/1.7 SMC-FA 100/2.8 SMC-M 150/3.5 SMC-M Flash: 160Sa Except the 50/1.7 all other lenses were bought secondhand. I also managed to get a tripod and a cable release. I feel that I am yet to fully utilize all my equipment. ( Tight schedules sometimes prevent my from going out on a beautiful day!). My kit is certainly not a fancy one. But it has helped me in making a lot of mistakes and correcting them! Now for my questions: 1. I was reading up on the zone system. I would like to know whether it is possible to apply the zone system principles on a 35mm format. From what I understood one has to control the exposure and the development time of the film to get the desired results. In a 35mm format this could mean that I have to shoot a whole roll with scenes which require the same development time. Seems to be a tall order! What is your personal experience ? 2. One of the limitations I faced with MZ-M is the metering system. To experiment with zone system I need spot-metering. I know that MZ-5n MZ-3 etc offer spot metering. How good are they ? From what I understood they wont offer spot-metering with M lenses. So I was considering getting a spot meter instead of a newer body. Any comments or suggestions ? 3. So far I have not doen any serious flash photography. I have been mainly shooting outdoors in available light. For indoors I stuck the Af160sa and 50/1.7-FA and set the camera in the P mode. I just focussed, the camera did the rest. I was thinking of doing some more flash photography. An suggestions on how I should start ? I would like to start with an all-manual set-up, so that I can learn the first principles. Thanks in advance for your time and help. Girish. -- The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from. Andrew S. Tanenbaum - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Manual Focus Feel (Was Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 ...
Fred wrote (in regard to focus feel} Now there are some who claim that the best screwmount lenses are better than any K-mount lens. I have some mint Ks and SMC Taks. I like the focus feel of both, but slightly prefer the Taks. I would say that the difference iis tactile rather thanmechanical. The SMC Taks feel better because the focus ring is scalloped metal, and is a delight to work with. Paul - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
Auto wipe was thrown in to see if the message got read to the end... :-) ppro -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 8:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses Ho Paul, Because he wants an autofocus camera that's small enough and simple enough for his wife to use. He does want interchangeable lenses, as he might want to borrow some of mine some time, so fixed-lens PS cameras are out. He's happy with the ZX-7. What's auto wipe? Paul M. Provencher wrote: If he has a Spotmatic, why not go buy a decent used SMCT Zoom 85~210? Hell, it would cost not much more than (if that) the cost of the repair. And forget the plastic crap. Or (blasphemy) go find a nice Canon Sure Shot Zoom - I hate to admit it but my wife gets tack sharp images properly exposed and focused every stinking time. Plenty of Zoom flexibility, and no need to focus (it's auto focus, auto load, auto flash, auto wipe) -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
recent MX or ME supers FS
i just deleted my map of thousands of saved PDML-messages. they were beautifully categorized. crap! well, one of the things that were deleted was all the recent MX and ME supers that has been offered FS here. since i don't remember which of you that had ones to sell i'd be glad if you that has any of them left could contact me! thanx alot! /e-man -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- http://eman.sphosting.com - my website - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Didya miss me?
Hello everyone, Gianfranco somehow found my home email and contacted me. I had been thinking of getting back to you guys for a while. He just gave me the impetus. So I have just cleaned my slate, and re subscribed. Now I'm ready to start again for the new year. I'll try to keep up this year, at least I have no distractions in the way of flatmates. My time is now my own, when I'm not working, studying, eating, sleeping. Just heard the news about Jeepgirl. Never mind, Tom, consolation is only a plane ticket to New Zealand away ;) Has anyone managed to find out where hubby suddenly appeared from? I loe having a car. Just got my first car in October, after 20-something years of Shanks's pony and Shanks's horse (bike). Just gotta watch that weight creeping on. Had a strange problem with my LX today. Put a new film in, wound it a little, closed the back, suddenly it wouldn't wind on. Tried again a few times. Finally discovered if I took off the lens cap, then waited for a click, I could wind on. About 10 frames in, though, it seemed to fix itself. To quote Steve Irwin Truly extraordinary. Also the mirror foam has started getting tacky (I won't allow myself to say st**ky) and coming off on the mirror. Catch ya later, Jody. Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Didya miss me?
Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT: remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done. Yes, we did miss you. Steve Larson Redondo Beach, California - Original Message - From: Jody [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Discuss Pentax [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 5:13 AM Subject: Didya miss me? Hello everyone, Gianfranco somehow found my home email and contacted me. I had been thinking of getting back to you guys for a while. He just gave me the impetus. So I have just cleaned my slate, and re subscribed. Now I'm ready to start again for the new year. I'll try to keep up this year, at least I have no distractions in the way of flatmates. My time is now my own, when I'm not working, studying, eating, sleeping. Just heard the news about Jeepgirl. Never mind, Tom, consolation is only a plane ticket to New Zealand away ;) Has anyone managed to find out where hubby suddenly appeared from? I loe having a car. Just got my first car in October, after 20-something years of Shanks's pony and Shanks's horse (bike). Just gotta watch that weight creeping on. Had a strange problem with my LX today. Put a new film in, wound it a little, closed the back, suddenly it wouldn't wind on. Tried again a few times. Finally discovered if I took off the lens cap, then waited for a click, I could wind on. About 10 frames in, though, it seemed to fix itself. To quote Steve Irwin Truly extraordinary. Also the mirror foam has started getting tacky (I won't allow myself to say st**ky) and coming off on the mirror. Catch ya later, Jody. Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Didya miss me?
Hi Jody, Welcome back! I hope you have a great new year. Jeepgirl pretty much surprised everyone. Your schedule sounds like you're not going to have much time for shooting pictures. The LX isn't deteriorating from not being used enough, is it? Sounds like it's time for a CLA. Len --- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Didya miss me?
Hi Jody, Welcome back. We certainly did miss you. The problem with your LX wasn't really a problem. You just had the shutter speed dial set to A, aperture priority mode. When you depressed the shutter release, you heard the shutter open but it never closed because it wasn't getting any light with the lens cap on. That's why it wouldn't wind on. As soon as you took the lens cap off, the meter calculated that it had enough light, and closed the shutter. Then you were able to wind on. Paul Stenquist Jody wrote: Hello everyone, Gianfranco somehow found my home email and contacted me. I had been thinking of getting back to you guys for a while. He just gave me the impetus. So I have just cleaned my slate, and re subscribed. Now I'm ready to start again for the new year. I'll try to keep up this year, at least I have no distractions in the way of flatmates. My time is now my own, when I'm not working, studying, eating, sleeping. Just heard the news about Jeepgirl. Never mind, Tom, consolation is only a plane ticket to New Zealand away ;) Has anyone managed to find out where hubby suddenly appeared from? I loe having a car. Just got my first car in October, after 20-something years of Shanks's pony and Shanks's horse (bike). Just gotta watch that weight creeping on. Had a strange problem with my LX today. Put a new film in, wound it a little, closed the back, suddenly it wouldn't wind on. Tried again a few times. Finally discovered if I took off the lens cap, then waited for a click, I could wind on. About 10 frames in, though, it seemed to fix itself. To quote Steve Irwin Truly extraordinary. Also the mirror foam has started getting tacky (I won't allow myself to say st**ky) and coming off on the mirror. Catch ya later, Jody. Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
It's a measure of reliability. Mean Time Between Failures. Len --- Excuse me, but what is MTBF? All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Middle aged cameras - why do I like them
Excuse my ramblings, but I am happy about the purchase of an old (middle aged) camera. I snagged a Super Program with a Kiron 28/2 from ebay. The price was great and there were a couple of problems that were quickly fixed and now I have a solid Super Program with a film transport that feels new! So it got me thinking... The average user bought these cameras 20 years ago as an improvement over the point-n-shoot they had (maybe an old Brownie). The purchase was spurred on by that upcoming big vacation or the arrival of 'Junior'. It was the family camera for recording family events. It came out for vacations and birthdays, for Christmas and holidays to take a few shots. Most people were too frugal to waste the rest of the roll, so Christmas and Easter shots sometimes came back from the developer on the same roll in June. These Pentax cameras served their families well. But think about the light use they got. 10 or maybe 20 rolls per year for the last 20 years. That is roughly 3,000 to 6,000 exposures on a consumer grade camera designed for 50,000. These cameras are hardly broken in! In fact, you could argue that the original owners have just done the initial testing to verify that the cameras work well. I suppose it is the bargain hunter in me, but I can't resist these old Pentax's. For only a fraction of their original cost, I can get a high quality precision instrument with 90% of it's useful life ahead of it! What a deal. Regards, Bob S. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mz-M, basic Photography and some questions ..
Hi Girish ... Understanding the Zone System is, IMO, an excellent way to get better quality negatives and prints, even if you don't implement the system on every frame on every roll. Yes, it's sometimes difficult to use the system with roll film, but when you know what you want as a result you can sometimes compromise on exposure or processing. After all, there's still the printing stage to make final adjustments. Of course, there's nothing to prevent you from shooting an entire roll of film on one subject, or in one type of light, which leads to another point: many 35mm photographers don't shoot enough frames of a particular subject. Often they'll grab a shot or two and move on to their next subject. I'm not saying this is wrong, but it begs the question of whether or not the subject was fully explored. Sometimes very small movements of the subject, camera, or the placement of the photographer, can substantially change the result of the photograph. Since you're reading Ansel Adams I'd like to suggest a book that's a little more in tune with 35mm photography. It's called On Being a Photographer by David Hurn and Bill Jay. You can read an excerpt here: http://www.lenswork.com/obpexc.htm and place an order for the book at the site as well. As far as spot metering goes, I may be one of the strongest advocates of the technique on this list. Using a spot meter has helped me to better understand the subtleties of correct exposure, and has given me a better understanding of light and scene brightness. If you can afford one, try a Pentax spot meter. The Spotmeter V is a good place to start if you're on a budget, as they are good meters and can be found used for a reasonable price. You'd be surprised at how much you can learn by using such a meter. I can't help you with your flash question. Girish Ganesan wrote: 1. I was reading up on the zone system. I would like to know whether it is possible to apply the zone system principles on a 35mm format. From what I understood one has to control the exposure and the development time of the film to get the desired results. In a 35mm format this could mean that I have to shoot a whole roll with scenes which require the same development time. Seems to be a tall order! What is your personal experience ? 2. One of the limitations I faced with MZ-M is the metering system. To experiment with zone system I need spot-metering. I know that MZ-5n MZ-3 etc offer spot metering. How good are they ? From what I understood they wont offer spot-metering with M lenses. So I was considering getting a spot meter instead of a newer body. Any comments or suggestions ? -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100
Got some bad news for you...my local guru at Ritz sez ALL Royal Golds are being retired...Kodak has just reduced $$$ to dump, it so stock-up!! At Ritz (Manchester,N.H.) 4 pk of 24's ASA 200 = $ 7.99 , ASA 400 = $ 9.99 (yes ROYAL gold) Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Middle aged cameras - why do I like them
That's a pretty broad assumption, Bob, although it may be pretty accurate in many cases. The problem is in knowing which camera may have been treated in that manner, so, IAC, a CLA - as you've done with yours - is in order if one expects some good, long-term use from it. Just a word or two about CLAs - I got an old Leica some time back, and it seemed to be just fine. It even tested to be in spec. However, after getting a CLA it became almost a different camera - smoother, quieter, and providing somewhat better exposures. So, even if a camera seems fine, those adjustments and a cleaning after twenty years can be a big help. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The average user bought these cameras 20 years ago as an improvement over the point-n-shoot they had (maybe an old Brownie). The purchase was spurred on by that upcoming big vacation or the arrival of 'Junior'. It was the family camera for recording family events. It came out for vacations and birthdays, for Christmas and holidays to take a few shots. Most people were too frugal to waste the rest of the roll, so Christmas and Easter shots sometimes came back from the developer on the same roll in June. These Pentax cameras served their families well. But think about the light use they got. 10 or maybe 20 rolls per year for the last 20 years. That is roughly 3,000 to 6,000 exposures on a consumer grade camera designed for 50,000. These cameras are hardly broken in! In fact, you could argue that the original owners have just done the initial testing to verify that the cameras work well. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100
If one stocked up on this and keeps it in the fridge,how long might it stay fresh Dave Begin Original Message From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:26:47 EST To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100 Got some bad news for you...my local guru at Ritz sez ALL Royal Golds are being retired...Kodak has just reduced $$$ to dump, it so stock-up!! At Ritz (Manchester,N.H.) 4 pk of 24's ASA 200 = $ 7.99 , ASA 400 = $ 9.99 (yes ROYAL gold) Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100
Hi David ... The answer to all your film storage questions - well, most, anyway - can be found on my site, the address of which is in my sig line. Click on Storage of Photographic Materials - Kodak David Brooks wrote: If one stocked up on this and keeps it in the fridge,how long might it stay fresh -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
I've had excellent results with the Sigma 28-105 f2.8-4 on a ZX-7 body...A real good cosmetic match too...Super sharp at 70mm and just a tad soft at 105mm so nice for portraits. Pop Photog test in Jan. 98 issue I can mail you a copy. Got mine thru SMILE PHOTO for $179.00 + 15.00 S/H and well worth it.. Regards, Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: tripod collar (add-on?)
Does someone sell a tripod collar or ring that you can install on a telephoto such as the Pentax 300/4.5 FA? I figure that by buying the FA and adding a tripod collar, I can combine the F's tripod capability with the FA's MF/AF clutch and have it all. The F* version also has the (highly desirable, in my opinion) AF/MF clutch, just as the FA* version, so that, with the F* version, one indeed can also have it all - g. Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7
Me too.L ove the barn shot. Dave Begin Original Message From: wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 20:50:02 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7 At 20:19 4-1-2002 -0500, you wrote: From: Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7 Here are three quick scans: http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg I like this lens. - -Aaron Bummer. Now I want one. (got to get a 6x7 first though..) Wendy --- Wendy Beard Ottawa, Canada mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] home page http://www.beard-redfern.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: a couple of tips
The hotshoe cover and eyepiece blind can also fit in the two little pouches that come with the neck strap. I always place them in there because I am very forgetful and am always misplacing small objects. Gabe - Original Message - From: Pat White [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 9:05 AM Subject: MZ-S: a couple of tips Recently, someone complained that it was inconvenient to set the mirror pre-lock on the MZ-S. Unless you use the self-timer frequently, you can select the pre-lock and forget it. If you have the BG-10 grip, you can use the IR remote, which is far more convenient anyway, and it only costs $25 Cdn. The remote 'e' is so small it fits in the pocket on the MZ series neckstrap (the hotshoe cover and eyepiece blind can both fit in the other pocket). This also means you don't need to buy and carry an electronic cable release, as the remote is actually handier. Pop Photo thought the hold switch was useless, but it could be very handy when handing the camera to someone to take a picture of, for example, you and a friend. When doing this, you should make sure that AF Single is selected, as a helpful bystander won't notice whether you and your friend are in focus or not (if AF-C is selected), and your one-time special shot could be way out of focus (happened to me). Hope this isn't too obvious, but it might help someone. Also, last month, while using studio flash cordlessly (using the MZ-S's built-in flash to trigger the studio flash), I picked up the stereo remote to turn down the music and found it triggered the studio flash (Yamaha stereo, Bowens flash w/Bowens IR trigger). Could be handy for cordless light readings. Pat White - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Z1-p-flash and M-lenses
I recently got two older lenses for my Z1-p - the M SMC 2,8:28 and the M SMC 3,5:135. According to my (swedish) camera-manual when using the in-built flash or external flashes with lenses made before the Pentax A-series the Z1-p should use a shutter speed of 1/60 s in whichever mode. Actually, however, it always sets the shutter speed to 1/250 s - at least according to the viewfinder and LCD-display. Does the Z1-p have a problem or is the manual wrong? Maybe any Z-1p-user can find an answer or has a better manual. Thanks Peter - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Can you believe this?
It looks more like a blonde to me... but maybe I don't get out much either. Gabe - Original Message - From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 8:31 AM Subject: RE: Can you believe this? It's a macaw not a parrot. Big difference. :^) Kent Gittings -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stan Halpin Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:04 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Can you believe this? Nice looking parrot! stan From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:00:00 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Can you believe this? http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315937391 Bill, KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . ** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses. www.mimesweeper.com ** - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT: remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done. I would add just a little suggestion of my own to your suggestion, Steve: I tend to keep my LX's in the Auto shutter dial position (for aperture-preferred autoexposure mode) for most (probably 90%) of my shooting, and only switch to manual as a deliberate action for a particular shooting situation. One disadvantage of the Auto position is that one can't load film with the shutter dial set to Auto, since (if light is being blocked from entering the body) the LX will just hold the shutter open indefinitely (or so it would seem). Now, for me, the problem is that, if I use 1/2000 for loading film, I potentially can (easily) forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto (and indeed, in a few senior moments, I have literally done just that, ruining some exposures for a few frames until I noticed my blatant stupidity). Your VERY IMPORTANT warning, Steve is very a good one to make. I now (and it's even become automatic with me, having done this for a while) set the shutter speed to 1/60, 1/30, or 1/15 (not critical) for loading film. The advantage of this is that the shutter sound at slower speeds is distinctive, and, if I forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto, my error of omission is audibly obvious with my very first mistaken exposure. (The disadvantage of doing this is that it is a little more of a nuisance to rotate the shutter dial all the way to some slow speed and back, compared to using 1/2000, which is only one click away from Auto.) By the way, the necessity of not leaving the shutter dial at 1/2000 (instead of resetting to Auto) is evident whether one is using flash or not. For natural light, 1/2000 is usually not going to be a suitable speed just by luck, although this depends on the film speed, aperture, and lighting, of course. Then, the problem with using flash at 1/2000 is that (unlike when properly set to Auto or X) there is no flash sync set, so one doesn't even have a prayer of getting a lucky exposure. (And, unfortunately, I can speak from experience on both of these situations - g.) The Super Program and Super A, with their automatic loading speed of 1/1000, are more idiot-proof for nincompoops like me - g. Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly. - Original Message - From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:07 PM Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 PJ After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been PJ using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need PJ some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed). You have TX and use Neopan 1600 to get to 1600 ISO?!? What a blasphemy! Both TX and HP5+ are no problem pushing to 1600, no problem at all, even in D76 (although Microphen is best for it IMO). IMHO better to use it than a Neopan, not that it's bad, but because with TX or HP5+ you can cover 400-1600 (3200 sometimes) with one film _you know_. [...] PJ I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and PJ ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of PJ sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in PJ Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me. Try Rodinal with medium format film. I have a personal love for Rodinal, so I like it even in small format, but then, I also like contrasty, super-grainy photographs :) (if the content is good of courseg). Snowfield Willie wrote that grain looks are very important for the look of photograph. I have several very good films where I simply don't like the grain looks in the resulting photo. And grain looks are, in small enlargements, a lot influenced by paper too, and of course enlarger light source, and paper grade - hard grades show the grain a lot more. Good light, Frantisek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Manual Focus Feel (Was Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 ...
I have some mint Ks and SMC Taks. I like the focus feel of both, but slightly prefer the Taks. I would say that the difference iis tactile rather thanmechanical. The SMC Taks feel better because the focus ring is scalloped metal, and is a delight to work with. Well, Paul, I ~do~ think there is a slight mechanical difference, although it is not, for me, overly significant (even though, as I understand and believe, it is a ~very~ important difference to a few of our screwmount MF users). I am guilty of believing that a nice early-K lens is good enough for me - g. However, I do think you make a good point about the focus ring shape and texture - those scalloped rings are indeed really nice on the fingers, aren't they? - g Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)
You can never be to picky, just as you can never be too rich or too thin g And I only have a chance of being ~one~ of these - g. Like you, I don't find the difference between a good K-mount and a good Super Tak to be that great. I seem to prefer some lenses of one type over some of the other - IOW, they both feel good. Good point, Shel. We all have our preferences and things that get to us more or less than the next person. You happened to be annoyed somewhat by the feel and the sound of some lenses. To those that have criticized you I say that they, too, have probably complained about some feature, function, or feel of one Pentax or another. Thanks for your vote of confidence, Shel. However, I think I'm going to start using a different terminology - I'm no longer picky - from now on I am going to be a discerning user, a discriminating Pentaxer - g. (In other words, I'll continue to be picky, but I'll simply be in stealth mode.) Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: tripod collar (add-on?)
Fred wrote: The F* version also has the (highly desirable, in my opinion) AF/MF clutch, just as the FA* version, so that, with the F* version, one indeed can also have it all - g. But, unfortunately, the AF/MF clutch in the F* does not work in the same way it does in FA lenses. In the latter, when you disengage AF in the lens, it also switches off the AF motor in the camera body (Z series and up), but with the F* 300 mm. 4.5, you also need to put the AF switch in the camera in manual position. Regards, -- Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain -- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7
Aaron Reynolds wrote: Here are three quick scans: http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg Crap, I wish my quick scans looked that nice. tv - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
What difference does it make if the cap's on or off when loading the film? So you expose a couple of frames of your foot, or the floor, or a wall ... I don't understand the need to have the cap on. [And yes, I missed Jody] Fred wrote: Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT: remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done. I would add just a little suggestion of my own to your suggestion, Steve: I tend to keep my LX's in the Auto shutter dial position (for aperture-preferred autoexposure mode) for most (probably 90%) of my shooting, and only switch to manual as a deliberate action for a particular shooting situation. One disadvantage of the Auto position is that one can't load film with the shutter dial set to Auto, since (if light is being blocked from entering the body) the LX will just hold the shutter open indefinitely (or so it would seem). -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)
Dear Discerning Pentaxer, I like your approach. I have just made a belated new years Resolution, and I, too, shall become more discerning and discrimination. From now on all lenses shall be checked with computer-controlled, digitally operated, multi-function test equipment for focusing torque characteristics, sound quality and loudness when focusing, mounting torque (there's nothing I hate more than having to apply too much or two little pressure to twist a lens on to the camera), coating reflectance, hardness of the rubber around the focusing ring, and aperture ring stiffness. The information will be compared to a set of preferred parameters in the computer database, and will generate a pass/fail result as well as a print out of how each lens parameter compares with my preferred parameter. These figures will also be tied into the Universal Pentax Lens Database which keeps track of the rarity of specific lenses, and in that way I will be able to decide immediately if it's worth acquiring a given lens should some of its qualities fall outside the predetermined preferred parameters. IOW, I might consider a K20/1.4 even if the focusing was a little stiff, but an M28/2.8 would not be given such leeway. Fred wrote: Thanks for your vote of confidence, Shel. However, I think I'm going to start using a different terminology - I'm no longer picky - from now on I am going to be a discerning user, a discriminating Pentaxer - g. (In other words, I'll continue to be picky, but I'll simply be in stealth mode.) -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100
My film guru tells me the same, but he says that Supra is going to replace Royal Gold. Are they the same film? Seems like it to me. Steve Larson Redondo Beach, California Bob wrote: Got some bad news for you...my local guru at Ritz sez ALL Royal Golds are being retired...Kodak has just reduced $$$ to dump, it so stock-up!! At Ritz (Manchester,N.H.) 4 pk of 24's ASA 200 = $ 7.99 , ASA 400 = $ 9.99 (yes ROYAL gold) Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
Fred, that is an excellent idea, thanks! I will try to remember to load film at 1/30`s from now on, as 1/2000`s is not discernable by ear, but 1/30`s is. The Super Program has its pros and cons about the first three frames set at 1/1000`s automatically, it is idiot proof (which I like), but do you really need three frames? Steve Larson Redondo Beach, California - Original Message - From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:06 AM Subject: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?] Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT: remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done. I would add just a little suggestion of my own to your suggestion, Steve: I tend to keep my LX's in the Auto shutter dial position (for aperture-preferred autoexposure mode) for most (probably 90%) of my shooting, and only switch to manual as a deliberate action for a particular shooting situation. One disadvantage of the Auto position is that one can't load film with the shutter dial set to Auto, since (if light is being blocked from entering the body) the LX will just hold the shutter open indefinitely (or so it would seem). Now, for me, the problem is that, if I use 1/2000 for loading film, I potentially can (easily) forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto (and indeed, in a few senior moments, I have literally done just that, ruining some exposures for a few frames until I noticed my blatant stupidity). Your VERY IMPORTANT warning, Steve is very a good one to make. I now (and it's even become automatic with me, having done this for a while) set the shutter speed to 1/60, 1/30, or 1/15 (not critical) for loading film. The advantage of this is that the shutter sound at slower speeds is distinctive, and, if I forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto, my error of omission is audibly obvious with my very first mistaken exposure. (The disadvantage of doing this is that it is a little more of a nuisance to rotate the shutter dial all the way to some slow speed and back, compared to using 1/2000, which is only one click away from Auto.) By the way, the necessity of not leaving the shutter dial at 1/2000 (instead of resetting to Auto) is evident whether one is using flash or not. For natural light, 1/2000 is usually not going to be a suitable speed just by luck, although this depends on the film speed, aperture, and lighting, of course. Then, the problem with using flash at 1/2000 is that (unlike when properly set to Auto or X) there is no flash sync set, so one doesn't even have a prayer of getting a lucky exposure. (And, unfortunately, I can speak from experience on both of these situations - g.) The Super Program and Super A, with their automatic loading speed of 1/1000, are more idiot-proof for nincompoops like me - g. Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Either myself or MX not so wonderful
Good evening everybody Not very nice story to tell but with a educational thought at the end. Being sure I managed to learn how to operate my MX (how hard can it be) I loaded it with film a shot to have some shooting. I did everything in the way the manual tells to do - I've putted the end of film beetween the pins, advanced couple times checking the rewind knob at the same time (I've used to shot with zenit camera) - everything seemed OK. So I did some shooting. When Christmas came I still had some frames left so I decided to burn them with a family (my MZ-M was loaded with BW film). Did some shooting and realised I'va allready reached frame 36 - so I rewound the film. It happened very easily - even too easily. I got scared that I might have rip the film from the cartdridge due to winding over the last frame but the film seemed to be OK back in the cartdridge. Today I went to the photo lab to have it developed. To my great dismay it turned out, that the whole shooting exposed only one frame and a third. The firs frame was exposed correctly but next was done only after moving by one third of the frame, than every frame was done in the same spot. The rest of the film is clean. I'm sure I've checked the rewind knob at the beginning but don't recall doing it later. Is it possible for film to slip from take-up spool during shooting? How deep should I push the leader between the pins? Or maybe is it the camera fault? I did some tests with an old film today and it seems to work OK. Now the educational part. I've read in the past not to photograph anything important with a new camera and I found the hard way how true it is. I still have a christmas tree at home but the atmosphere and presents are gone. Also developed the film from MZ-M and it seems that every frame is at least printable (can't really judge exposure from the neg). Should have used this one... Another thing - I've seen lately few posts on the list with a statement that SC-1 focusing screen is hard to find. Is it because it is MX focusing screen (are they hard to find in general) or it is because it is the one that was supplied with the camera (it looks like the one to me) so not many of them were produced due to low demand? Just wanted to share the story - maybe it will be of some advice to someone. Maciej Marchlewski - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[3]: Kodak Royal Gold 100
Steve, Couldn't be exactly the same as some of the speeds are different. Supra 100, 400, 800. Royal Gold 100, 200, 400, 1000?. I think they are dumping Royal Gold because it doesn't sell well enough. Keeping Gold and Supra. I personally never use Royal Gold, have always used Portra, Supra and Fuji Reala. So, I'm not directly feeling the loss. My big concern is that we are seeing further migration away from film and towards digital. Eventually, film is going to be expensive to buy and expensive to get processed. Bruce Dayton Saturday, January 05, 2002, 8:05:48 AM, you wrote: SL My film guru tells me the same, but he says that Supra is going to replace SL Royal Gold. Are they the same film? Seems like it to me. SL Steve Larson SL Redondo Beach, California SL Bob wrote: SL Got some bad news for you...my local guru at Ritz sez ALL Royal Golds SL are being retired...Kodak has just reduced $$$ to dump, it so stock-up!! SL At Ritz (Manchester,N.H.) 4 pk of 24's ASA 200 = $ 7.99 , ASA 400 = $ 9.99 SL (yes ROYAL gold) SL Bob SL - SL This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, SL go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to SL visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
He wants a zoom for travel. He can always use my 43mm if he's so inclined. You're probably g right about the quality difference. Thanks! Clive Williams wrote: If he likes quality and wants something that'll last, he needs a 43 Limited. For Family pictures, which tend to have more than one person in anyway, it's a pretty comfortable length - I seldom use anything else for my people pictures these days - and it feels so good that the more I use it, the more I WANT to use it! Expensive, true, but not when you consider how many Tamkigmas he might get through in its lifetime. If his budget won't stretch that far, either of the FA 50s ought to do almost as well. I'm sure you of all people can sell him the idea of Real Lenses! (g) -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax 67 600mm f/4 review
Dan Scott wrote: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/600mm.htm an interesting read. Image quality comparison between the Pentax 600/4 and the Canon 300mm f/2.8L IS. One guess which wins... I just *love* the side-by-side photo of the 67II with the 600/4 next to the Canon with the 300/2.8! Anyone who doesn't feel enabled by this article needs medical attention! -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
The Super Program and Super A, with their automatic loading speed of 1/1000, are more idiot-proof for nincompoops like me - g. I see the word program and I immediately have an attack of belinkoffitis ;) Har! Belinkoffitis? I ~love~ the concept... g Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
Take two aspirin and call me in the morning ... g AnnSan snickered: I see the word program and I immediately have an attack of belinkoffitis ;) -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful
I'm sure I've checked the rewind knob at the beginning but don't recall doing it later. Is it possible for film to slip from take-up spool during shooting? How deep should I push the leader between the pins? Or maybe is it the camera fault? I did some tests with an old film today and it seems to work OK. Hi Maciej, It's easily done. Everyone loads film in their own way. You either start with the cassette in the recess on the left and then load the take-up spool, or start with loading the take-up spool, then slot the cassette in. I do it like this: I slot about 2 or 3 cm of film into the needles on the take-up spool, then drag the cassette over to the feed chamber, locating the perforations onto the roller as I go. Next, I wind on one frame with the back still open. This way I can see that the film is advancing properly. Only then do I close the back and tighten the rewind knob slightly - then one can see it go round during film advance (another confidence boost). The reason I do it this way? I can load the film with just one hand, my left, if necessary. Hope this helps. Cheers, Cotty ___ Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out the UK Macintosh ads http://www.macads.co.uk - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful
Maciej, Sometimes the 'magic needle' film loading doesn't work so well! I've had it happen many times, sometimes with bad results. You need to watch the first three or four shots get wound. It is definitely an operator error, as most people have no problem. But if you are like me, you will have to watch it carefully. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Not very nice story to tell but with a educational thought at the end. Being sure I managed to learn how to operate my MX (how hard can it be) I loaded it with film a shot to have some shooting. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: how to light a room?
Dan Scott wrote: I took some photos to show off our new floors, but the lighting pretty much sucks. annsan replies: Doesn't look too bad to me, on the whole. Nice pad! However, take flash off, get the right film for the lighting, set camera on tripod, etc. Zillions will reply in detail, I'm sure. But I was bothered by the display on the web. The thumbnails looked really nice, but the enlargements had those distracting little rectangular markers on each corner and the sides - may not be anything you have control over. happy redecorating :) ann http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html I used an AF-500FTZ mounted on my ZX-5n, bouncing the light off the ceiling. I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a little less amateurishly? Thanks, Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax 67 600mm f/4 review
When I saw the side-by-side of the two test shots, I could hear Paul Hogan (a la Crocodile Dundee) saying, You call that a transparency? That's not a transparency, now THIS, this is a transparency. Whoosh. :-) Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mark wrote: I just *love* the side-by-side photo of the 67II with the 600/4 next to the Canon with the 300/2.8! Anyone who doesn't feel enabled by this article needs medical attention! -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Scanning Terminology Questions
Bit depth, is color depth I assume. 24 bits, that is 8 bits per color channel, is what you need, but before you start to tweak the exposure and color and curves etc, it is better to have more then that, so your end result looks better. After that you can go back to 24 bits. A scanner might do 30 bits or 36 or so, but if it's more then 24 Windows will use 48 bit as the next step. So it doubles your file sizes. Dynamic range is the range the CD can still handle. Since that is logarithmic, it's a power of ten. So a range or 3 is a factor of 1000 (10 to the power of 3). Specifically for slide film it is important to have more rather then less, because of the high contrast of the slide. Frits Wüthrich Shel Belinkoff asked: Hi ... I need some help with terminology. What is bit depth and what's important about it? What's dynamic range and is more always better? -- Shel Belinkoff - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Z1-p-flash and M-lenses
Hej Peter. I don't think the camera is faulty. AFAIK, max flash sync. speed is only a property of the shutter, and has nothing to do with the lens. Maybe something to do with how older flashes work? -Dunno... I have used an AF400-T and the built-in flash together with a M-100/2.8 some times. The only problem I had was that the two flashes didn't communicate, so there were no contrast-control in the camera. Jostein - Original Message - From: Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 4:10 PM Subject: Z1-p-flash and M-lenses I recently got two older lenses for my Z1-p - the M SMC 2,8:28 and the M SMC 3,5:135. According to my (swedish) camera-manual when using the in-built flash or external flashes with lenses made before the Pentax A-series the Z1-p should use a shutter speed of 1/60 s in whichever mode. Actually, however, it always sets the shutter speed to 1/250 s - at least according to the viewfinder and LCD-display. Does the Z1-p have a problem or is the manual wrong? Maybe any Z-1p-user can find an answer or has a better manual. Thanks Peter - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Shel, Not being an expert, I chance on sharing my understanding of this. Hope someone correct me if I'm wrong. I think the bit depth means how big a binary number the scanner use to describe a colour or shades of gray. So bigger numbers mean more colours. Dynamic range is how many f-stops it can separate between shadows and highlights. More would be better, I guess... Jostein - Original Message - From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:03 PM Subject: Scanning Terminology Questions Hi ... I need some help with terminology. What is bit depth and what's important about it? What's dynamic range and is more always better? -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 400 5.6 Takumar
Bob,
So the previous owner tried putting a Nikon converter on a Pentax K
400/5.6? Wow, no wonder it got stuck.
So is the lens ok, have you mounted it to your camera yet? Any
thoughts? TELL TELL TELL!!
Bill
Bob Rapp wrote:
I picked up the lens this morning and, as the seller was explaining how
the adaptor got stuck, I unscrewed the thing. Overall the lens is in very
good condition and the glass is clear. Also included was a Pentax UV filter.
The 2X adaptor is screw on one end and Nikon on the other.
Bob
- Original Message -
From: Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:33 PM
Subject: 400 5.6 Takumar
I'm not sure that I should celebrate or not. I have won a BIN 400 f5.6
Takumar for about 45 US. It is said to have a permanently attached 2X
converter on it. Nothing is permanent. I will let the list if it is a
door
stop or something usable - but for 45.00?
Regards,
Bob Rapp {:~)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Pentax 67 600mm f/4 review
It was a well written article, but the author didn't mention film type selection . . . could that have added to either lenses final results? (I think I know the answer, but I thought I'd put it out there.) Illinois Bill Dan Scott wrote: When I saw the side-by-side of the two test shots, I could hear Paul Hogan (a la Crocodile Dundee) saying, You call that a transparency? That's not a transparency, now THIS, this is a transparency. Whoosh. :-) Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mark wrote: I just *love* the side-by-side photo of the 67II with the 600/4 next to the Canon with the 300/2.8! Anyone who doesn't feel enabled by this article needs medical attention! -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Didya miss me?
Eh. Nice to hear from you again. Kind of wondered what happened to our favorite Kiwi. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Jody [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Discuss Pentax [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:13 AM Subject: Didya miss me? Hello everyone, Gianfranco somehow found my home email and contacted me. I had been thinking of getting back to you guys for a while. He just gave me the impetus. So I have just cleaned my slate, and re subscribed. Now I'm ready to start again for the new year. I'll try to keep up this year, at least I have no distractions in the way of flatmates. My time is now my own, when I'm not working, studying, eating, sleeping. Just heard the news about Jeepgirl. Never mind, Tom, consolation is only a plane ticket to New Zealand away ;) Has anyone managed to find out where hubby suddenly appeared from? I loe having a car. Just got my first car in October, after 20-something years of Shanks's pony and Shanks's horse (bike). Just gotta watch that weight creeping on. Had a strange problem with my LX today. Put a new film in, wound it a little, closed the back, suddenly it wouldn't wind on. Tried again a few times. Finally discovered if I took off the lens cap, then waited for a click, I could wind on. About 10 frames in, though, it seemed to fix itself. To quote Steve Irwin Truly extraordinary. Also the mirror foam has started getting tacky (I won't allow myself to say st**ky) and coming off on the mirror. Catch ya later, Jody. Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful
I load the same way, but I suggest winding until both sprockets are engaged before closing the back. The film is far less likely to slp off if you do that. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 1:46 PM Subject: Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful I'm sure I've checked the rewind knob at the beginning but don't recall doing it later. Is it possible for film to slip from take-up spool during shooting? How deep should I push the leader between the pins? Or maybe is it the camera fault? I did some tests with an old film today and it seems to work OK. Hi Maciej, It's easily done. Everyone loads film in their own way. You either start with the cassette in the recess on the left and then load the take-up spool, or start with loading the take-up spool, then slot the cassette in. I do it like this: I slot about 2 or 3 cm of film into the needles on the take-up spool, then drag the cassette over to the feed chamber, locating the perforations onto the roller as I go. Next, I wind on one frame with the back still open. This way I can see that the film is advancing properly. Only then do I close the back and tighten the rewind knob slightly - then one can see it go round during film advance (another confidence boost). The reason I do it this way? I can load the film with just one hand, my left, if necessary. Hope this helps. Cheers, Cotty ___ Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out the UK Macintosh ads http://www.macads.co.uk - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: how to light a room?
Ceiling bounced flash? The problem is I don't know a simple way to light an interior like that especially when the floor is the main subject. I would use several big strobes, but that is probably not an option for you. For dramatic effect you could put high wattage bulbs in all the fixtures, but the floor would still be rather dark. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 12:52 PM Subject: how to light a room? I took some photos to show off our new floors, but the lighting pretty much sucks. http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html I used an AF-500FTZ mounted on my ZX-5n, bouncing the light off the ceiling. I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a little less amateurishly? Thanks, Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
Now, there is my arguement abainst automatic cameras in a nutshell. If your camera is manual only you can not forget to turn it back to auto. And, you know you rather than the camera have to set the exposure. Setting a compensation dial is more of a hassle than just clicking open or closesd a stop or so, and you don't forget to put it back to normal because the next shot you are going to change the exposure anyway. If the lighting is steady you can take a general reading and just shoot away until the light changes, the camera will not change the exposure because the is something dark or something light in the frame, so you get more consistant exposures. Same wiht AF, if you have to focus you do it, if you leave it to the camera it may be shut off or it may focus on the wrong thing. Also, zone focus is far, far faster than AF for those crithcal shots. The thing that I have found is that when I use an auto camera, I become dependent on it and forget to compensate for its limitations. That is in my experience a very real human limitation. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 10:06 AM Subject: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?] Hi, set the LX to 1/2000`s when putting in film. VERY IMPORTANT: remember to set it back to what you want after you`re done. I would add just a little suggestion of my own to your suggestion, Steve: I tend to keep my LX's in the Auto shutter dial position (for aperture-preferred autoexposure mode) for most (probably 90%) of my shooting, and only switch to manual as a deliberate action for a particular shooting situation. One disadvantage of the Auto position is that one can't load film with the shutter dial set to Auto, since (if light is being blocked from entering the body) the LX will just hold the shutter open indefinitely (or so it would seem). Now, for me, the problem is that, if I use 1/2000 for loading film, I potentially can (easily) forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto (and indeed, in a few senior moments, I have literally done just that, ruining some exposures for a few frames until I noticed my blatant stupidity). Your VERY IMPORTANT warning, Steve is very a good one to make. I now (and it's even become automatic with me, having done this for a while) set the shutter speed to 1/60, 1/30, or 1/15 (not critical) for loading film. The advantage of this is that the shutter sound at slower speeds is distinctive, and, if I forget to put the shutter dial back on Auto, my error of omission is audibly obvious with my very first mistaken exposure. (The disadvantage of doing this is that it is a little more of a nuisance to rotate the shutter dial all the way to some slow speed and back, compared to using 1/2000, which is only one click away from Auto.) By the way, the necessity of not leaving the shutter dial at 1/2000 (instead of resetting to Auto) is evident whether one is using flash or not. For natural light, 1/2000 is usually not going to be a suitable speed just by luck, although this depends on the film speed, aperture, and lighting, of course. Then, the problem with using flash at 1/2000 is that (unlike when properly set to Auto or X) there is no flash sync set, so one doesn't even have a prayer of getting a lucky exposure. (And, unfortunately, I can speak from experience on both of these situations - g.) The Super Program and Super A, with their automatic loading speed of 1/1000, are more idiot-proof for nincompoops like me - g. Fred - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: how to light a room?
Dan, I'm not a flash person either, but from your pictures it appears to me that you need to diffuse/soften the flash. I see a obvious horizontal line of bright/dark due to flash falloff. I believe there are diffusers available to attach to the flash head to do this. Ken Waller - Original Message - From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 12:52 PM Subject: how to light a room? I took some photos to show off our new floors, but the lighting pretty much sucks. http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html I used an AF-500FTZ mounted on my ZX-5n, bouncing the light off the ceiling. I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a little less amateurishly? Thanks, Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Z1-p-flash and M-lenses
Well, now you are going to drive me back to the books because my PZ-1p was always selecting 1/60 sec and I had to find a setting to make it choose 1/250 sec. Which I did, and now it chooses 1/250th every time. Len --- - Original Message - From: Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 12:16 PM Subject: Re: Z1-p-flash and M-lenses Thanks Len, but Pentax function 7 controls the performance of the if-button in the hyper-manual mode only. The problem (if it is one) I was referring however concerns not only the hyper-manual-model. The shutter speed is set to 1/250 (and not 1/60 as the manual says) also in Hp, P, Av modes. Well, maybe its a misstake in the manual after all. It would be helpfull though if any Z1-p-user with an english manual could check the corresponding part (how to use the in-built or an external flash with M-lenses). No, the Z1-p does not have a problem. Pentax Function 7 controls that, if I'm not mistaken. I don't have the book handy. Perhaps someone else can expand on this. Len --- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: January PUG - unsolicited comments from Cotty
Coty, thanks for your thoughtful comments on my Jan PUG image Good Evening in the Badlands, glad you liked it. I really appreciated your thoughtful preamble to your unsolicited comments. When all is said and done about equipment, film, and technique, we either like the image or we don't. Ken Waller - Original Message - From: Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 7:55 PM Subject: January PUG - unsolicited comments from Cotty Well, hey, I was never one for following proper protocol anyway. With me you get a comment whether you like it or not! Actually nothing to worry about - I comment only favourably on the pics I like, the ones that jump off the page at me and slap me about the face. I'm not a great believer in critique, especially over minute detail. I either like a photograph, or I can leave it. Doesn't have anything to do with whether it's good or bad. I'll go one further: I don't believe in terms like 'good' or 'bad' when applied to a piece of creativity, especially photography which is subjective by nature IMO. Hence, here's my selection from the beautiful offerings provided by our wonderful PUG - a truly remarkable international gallery - what a fabulous feeling it is looking at the positive aspects that humanity has to offer. (All go: ahh...) Right, off we go. VERY high standards of craftsmanship this month! The thumbnails hint at some real jewels. The colours! Lots of autumn leaves and flowers. Love the colours... Good Evening in the Badlands Ken Waller A very simple image, nevertheless conveying complicated reason. Three tones on this: glowing, just perceptible, and pitch bloody black! Ken's right - the place is amazing, and so is his picture. Well done, mate. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Z1-p-flash and M-lenses
Whenever you mount a M lens on the z1p it locks the auto exposure modes at 1/250th. Not sure why, just does. When I'm using a M lens I always set the camera to Hyper Manual mode. Nick --- Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently got two older lenses for my Z1-p - the M SMC 2,8:28 and the M SMC 3,5:135. According to my (swedish) camera-manual when using the in-built flash or external flashes with lenses made before the Pentax A-series the Z1-p should use a shutter speed of 1/60 s in whichever mode. Actually, however, it always sets the shutter speed to 1/250 s - at least according to the viewfinder and LCD-display. Does the Z1-p have a problem or is the manual wrong? Maybe any Z-1p-user can find an answer or has a better manual. Thanks Peter - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: how to light a room?
On Sat, 5 Jan 2002 11:52:30 -0600, Dan Scott wrote: http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a little less amateurishly? Dan, I think if you open the window blinds, and maybe put sheer curtains over the windows to diffuse the incoming daylight, then shoot on a brighter day, you'll get a better balance between ambient light and flash. I think that would help in a couple of ways, mainly reducing the power required from the AF-500FTZ so the ceilings and stuff don't get so washed out. TTYL, DougF - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mz-M, basic Photography and some questions ..
Shel Belinkoff wrote: Hi Girish ... Understanding the Zone System is, IMO, an excellent way to get better quality negatives and prints, even if you don't implement the system on every frame on every roll. Absolutely! Once you know the zone system you understand how film responds to varying degrees of reflectivity. You know that you have to judge which part of a scene is most importatnt to you, and how you would like to represent it. And you begin to realize that film and the lens don't record light in exactly the same way your eye does. So you learn to work with those differences. Using a spot meter has helped me to better understand the subtleties of correct exposure, and has given me a better understanding of light and scene brightness. Coupled with an understanding of the zone system, the use of a spotmeter helps one make sense of it all. You pick a part of the scene that you want to fall in zone 3, and you meter it. Then you might look at the highlights and see if they will be recordable at that exposure. It's invaluable. If you can afford one, try a Pentax spot meter. The Spotmeter V is a good place to start if you're on a budget, as they are good meters and can be found used for a reasonable price. You'd be surprised at how much you can learn by using such a meter. I have a Spotmeter V and am well satisfied with it. Paul - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: how to light a room?
Since you're not a flash person, perhaps you should hotlight it. Get down to Ace and get some lights with clamps on them, then set them up where you think you need some light. Be careful about hotspots, and grab some white poster board to do a little bouncing/reducing contrast. Doug At 11:52 AM -06001/5/02, Dan Scott wrote, or at least typed: I took some photos to show off our new floors, but the lighting pretty much sucks. http://homepage.mac.com/dkscott/PhotoAlbum2.html I used an AF-500FTZ mounted on my ZX-5n, bouncing the light off the ceiling. I can take the flash off the camera, but I'm not a flash person, so I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions on using the combo I have, ZX-5n's on camera flash and the AF-500FTZ, to re-do these shots a little less amateurishly? Thanks, Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Douglas Forrest Brewer Ashwood Lake Photography [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.alphoto.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Cosinon 55/1.2K?
Dan, As I recall, the wide open shots were so soft and muddy, I didn't even save the JPEGs. By the way, Mark Cassino or Gosden also reported last year that the Ricoh 55/1.2K does not appear to transmit as much light, f/stop for f/stop, as a Pentax SMC 50, based on the resulting shutter speeds and viewfinder brightness. Thus the advantage is essentially nullified. Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe the color of a pixel... So 4-bit gives you 16 possible colors for the pixel, 8-bit is 256 color, etc... Dynamic Range is beyond a simple answer from me, and seems to mean different things to different people... In scanner adds, it appears to be a calculation based on the number of useful bits/inch the scanner can actually read in hardware... As always, the best place for more info: www.scantips.com Steve Wark At 01:59 PM 1/5/2002 -0500, you wrote: Hi ... I need some help with terminology. What is bit depth and what's important about it? What's dynamic range and is more always better? - -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
gabriel bovino wrote: Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly Congratulations! That's a big first step. And everything you used is completely adequate, and perhaps quite good. T-Max is a relatively hot developer, but it yields very nice results in most situations. I haven't tried it with Tri=X, but I suspect it will do just fine. Work with these chemicals for a while, then try something like D-76 1:1 and compare the results. Do some reading. See what other people are doing, and experiment. It's a lot of fun. And eventually you'll find something that's just right for you. Paul - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 400 5.6 Takumar
Speaking of Pentax 400/5.6s, my PKA version arrived Friday...a day after I ordered it from Adorama. My longest lens had been a 200. Man, what a difference 200mm makes! It's earned a semipermanent place on my heavy Cullmann monopod, where I can't tear my 11-year-old daughter away from it. This is the first lens that has captured her interest in outdoor photography. I had always been a wide-angle or moderate telephoto kind of shooter. But the 400 has opened my eyes to the possibilities of wildlife photography. I also find the 5.6 plenty bright for snappy focusing in all but the dimmest light. My only problem is, it's so close in focal length to a 500, I'll never justify getting the 500/4.5. But at 1200 grams, it's 2/3 lighter than the 600/5.6 ED-IF. Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pentax 67 600mm f/4 review
I see more 67s in our future. No one will be sorry. Paul Mark Roberts wrote: Dan Scott wrote: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/600mm.htm an interesting read. Image quality comparison between the Pentax 600/4 and the Canon 300mm f/2.8L IS. One guess which wins... I just *love* the side-by-side photo of the 67II with the 600/4 next to the Canon with the 300/2.8! Anyone who doesn't feel enabled by this article needs medical attention! -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
On Sat, 05 Jan 2002 16:37:06 -0500, Steve Wark wrote: Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe the color of a pixel... So 4-bit gives you 16 possible colors for the pixel, 8-bit is 256 color, etc... Be aware that some people will name the same color depth differently. For example, True Color generally refers to representation with twenty-four total bits of color information, eight bits each for red, green, and blue. Some people call True Color 24-bit color and others call it 8-bit color. Dynamic Range is beyond a simple answer from me, and seems to mean different things to different people... In scanner adds, it appears to be a calculation based on the number of useful bits/inch the scanner can actually read in hardware... In scanner ads, what they appear to be reporting is the difference between the darkest adjacent pixel colors that can be discerned and the lightest adjacent pixel colors that can be discerned. This is very similar to measuring the smallest-discernable film density differences at the light (high-density in a neg) and dark (low-density in a neg) ends of the exposure scale. Also remember that the bit depth and dynamic range are quoted on the RGB color space of the scanner. If the scanned image is converted to another color space, the bit depth and dynamic range can change. TTYL, DougF - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Developing Tri-X 400
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 4:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400 gabriel bovino wrote: Well I want to thank everyone for their advice!!! Because I was so eager to try developing my own negs after about 10 years... I went out a bought what was only available at the local camera shop. T-MAX Developer Kodafix Solution Kodak Stop Bath Kodak PhotoFlo I developed the film and everything looks great... except where the film buckled a little and it did not develop correctly Congratulations! That's a big first step. And everything you used is completely adequate, and perhaps quite good. T-Max is a relatively hot developer, but it yields very nice results in most situations. I haven't tried it with Tri=X, but I suspect it will do just fine. Work with these chemicals for a while, then try something like D-76 1:1 and compare the results. Do some reading. See what other people are doing, and experiment. It's a lot of fun. And eventually you'll find something that's just right for you. Paul I think it's better to experiment with film speed and development time keeping film, developer, developer temp, developer dilution, agitation all constant. That way you can really get best results. The best way to find film speed with a given development process is to bracket +/- 2 stops from nominal speed in 1/2 stop increments and then choose best looking negative and use that speed from then on. Once that is established, then change one varible such as developer and fine tune again if not satified with first results. It's not Tri-X but here's one setup that works fantastic for me: Film : Tmax 100 ISO: 80 Deveolper : Tmax liquid Deveolper dilution : 1:9 ( 1 shot use ) Diluted Developer Amount : 400ml Per roll (36) Developer Temp. : 24 deg. C Agitation : constant with roller Development Time : 6.5 minutes Use stop bath : Yes Good Luck, JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mz-M, basic Photography and some questions ..
Paul Stenquist wrote: Shel Belinkoff wrote: Using a spot meter has helped me to better understand the subtleties of correct exposure, and has given me a better understanding of light and scene brightness. Coupled with an understanding of the zone system, the use of a spotmeter helps one make sense of it all. You pick a part of the scene that you want to fall in zone 3, and you meter it. Then you might look at the highlights and see if they will be recordable at that exposure. It's invaluable. Here's something fun to do. Find a scene with a good tonal range and meter the shadows, highlights, middle areas, and so forth, adjusting exposure each time to what you think is correct. So, lets say you meter a white house in the sun, open up two - three stops and shoot the scene. Meter a shadow and stop down a couple of stops, and so on. Then when you've processed the film, see how close you were to the right exposure. The object of the exercise is to allow one to practice recognizing different aspects of the light and coordinating that with exposure and development. Theoretically, no matter where you meter, if you adjust the exposure properly each negative should be the same. After a while you won't have much need for a meter except in tricky lighting situations. The camera meter can only give you so much creativity and control. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 400 5.6 Takumar
Hi Paul, On Sat, 05 Jan 2002 16:52:22 -0500, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote: Speaking of Pentax 400/5.6s, my PKA version arrived Friday... a day after I ordered it from Adorama. Congratulations. I've dealt with Adorama on several occasions and have always gotten good service from them. My longest lens had been a 200. Man, what a difference 200mm makes! I know what you mean ... it's amazing. I use them mainly for motor racing photography and occasional attempts to get good, fat moon photos with a pair of teleconverters behind them. Stick some extension rings behind the A 400 and you can do some really nifty macro work at amazing working distances. The Sigma 400/5.6 APO Macro is 1:3 at 1.6m close focus. With the accidents at motor races that have injured or killed fans and officials and team members alike the last few years, the fences are pushing us amateurs without credentials farther and farther from the track. If I can't weasel my way into credentials, then I foresee a 600mm f/4 or f/5.6 lens in my future and I'll have to test out the 1.7X AF teleconverter with the 400/5.6 lenses. It's earned a semipermanent place on my heavy Cullmann monopod [...] I use a Bogen 3218 monopod with a 3262 medium ball head on it, and that's plenty strong. Even the SMC 400/5.6 isn't all that heavy and Tokina SD is quite a bit lighter. The Sigma seems to be the heaviest of those, at 1.5 kilos, so you're only looking at about 2 or 2.5 kilos on the head. I also find the 5.6 plenty bright for snappy focusing in all but the dimmest light. I've been pleasantly surprised by the AF speed of the ZX-5 with f/4 and f/5.6 lenses, even in very dim indoor conditions. Maybe I'm just not used to fast lenses, since I don't usually shoot indoors. My only problem is, it's so close in focal length to a 500, I'll never justify getting the 500/4.5. But at 1200 grams, it's 2/3 lighter than the 600/5.6 ED-IF. That's no hill for a climber. Of course, I'm single without kids, so I don't have to justify my toy budget to anyone else, either. :-) TTYL, DougF - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Thanks for everyone trying to explain this to me. I do not understand any of the responses. Could someone please explain this to me like I was a child, and perhaps avoid jargon, acronyms, and the like. I'm really ignorant about this and I'd like to buy a scanner this year. But I'm afraid that, if I don't understand even the most rudimentary information, I'll end up with the wrong scanner. Describing bit depth as color depth, for example, doesn't help me. I'm having the same problem with this as I have with understanding electricity, and all the analogies people give me about garden hoses and water pressure don't seem to make sense. What is bit depth and, perhaps even more important, what's important about it? Jostein wrote: I think the bit depth means how big a binary number the scanner use to describe a colour or shades of gray. So bigger numbers mean more colours. Fritz wrote: Bit depth, is color depth I assume. 24 bits, that is 8 bits per color channel, is what you need, but before you start to tweak the exposure and color and curves etc, it is better to have more then that, so your end result looks better. After that you can go back to 24 bits. A scanner might do 30 bits or 36 or so, but if it's more then 24 Windows will use 48 bit as the next step. So it doubles your file sizes. Steve wrote: Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe the color of a pixel... So 4-bit gives you 16 possible colors for the pixel, 8-bit is 256 color, etc... Doug wrote: Be aware that some people will name the same color depth differently. For example, True Color generally refers to representation with twenty-four total bits of color information, eight bits each for red, green, and blue. Some people call True Color 24-bit color and others call it 8-bit color. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount?
Hi Paul, Why not try a Super-Multi-Coated Tak 300/4? I still regret selling mine, but it was a superb lens, close focus wasn`t bad at 18 feet. Steve Larson Redondo Beach, California - Original Message - From: Paul F. Stregevsky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount? I've been thinking about getting a Carl Zeiss Jena 300/4 Sonnar in M42 mount. I've seen its filter size described as 77mm, 86mm, and 95mm: The 77mm version focuses to 3 m, weighs 1,950 g, and has 5 elements in 3 groups. It was made from the 1960s through 1980s; multicoating began in the mid 1970s. The 86mm version is the Carl Zeiss Jena Auto S Auto MC Electric (or something like that). It focuses to 4 m, weighs 1,650 g, and has 6 elements in 5 groups. It is praised on Nathan Dayton's site, http://www.commiecameras.com, on this page: http://www.commiecameras.com/ddr/p6/lenses/index.htm The 95mm version is a Carl Zeiss Jena that I know nothing about. I just know that it's mentioned as 95mm on one of the four current EBay listings: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316507457 (Pentacon 6 mount) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315207641 (Praktica bayonet mount--however you spell it) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315956584 (Pentacon 6 mount; mentions the 95mm filter) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315956584 (Exakta mount) Should I consider only the 86mm version--definitely autoaperture, so modern? Can it definitely be fitted with (or found with) an M42 mount? And what can anyone tell me about the 95mm version? Then there is the issue of the mounts. I know that if I want it to be M42, it must be a Praktica mount. But weren't those old mounts replaceable? Wrote one user: Most of these [old CZJs] have a coarse screw-thread into which the actual camera adaptor screws, a remnant of its design as a lens for use on the old Contax RF Flektoskop and Flektometer reflex housings. A lens like this can be readily adapted by the fabrication of a new adaptor. The last thing I want is to buy a Pentacon to M42 adaptor, then try to fit onto it an M42-to-K adaptor. But can't I essentially unscrew the Pentacon or Exacta mount and screw in a CZJ M42 mount (maybe $60?), giving me essentially a made-for-M42 lens? Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per color you are limited to 256 tints. More is better. Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure black can be recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the difference between the two numbers. You could compare it to the contrast grade of your B$W paper. The thing to be aware of is advertising people lie, or at least hedge the truth a bit which is why two scanners that seem to have the same specs can have different performance. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 5:21 PM Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions Thanks for everyone trying to explain this to me. I do not understand any of the responses. Could someone please explain this to me like I was a child, and perhaps avoid jargon, acronyms, and the like. I'm really ignorant about this and I'd like to buy a scanner this year. But I'm afraid that, if I don't understand even the most rudimentary information, I'll end up with the wrong scanner. Describing bit depth as color depth, for example, doesn't help me. I'm having the same problem with this as I have with understanding electricity, and all the analogies people give me about garden hoses and water pressure don't seem to make sense. What is bit depth and, perhaps even more important, what's important about it? Jostein wrote: I think the bit depth means how big a binary number the scanner use to describe a colour or shades of gray. So bigger numbers mean more colours. Fritz wrote: Bit depth, is color depth I assume. 24 bits, that is 8 bits per color channel, is what you need, but before you start to tweak the exposure and color and curves etc, it is better to have more then that, so your end result looks better. After that you can go back to 24 bits. A scanner might do 30 bits or 36 or so, but if it's more then 24 Windows will use 48 bit as the next step. So it doubles your file sizes. Steve wrote: Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe the color of a pixel... So 4-bit gives you 16 possible colors for the pixel, 8-bit is 256 color, etc... Doug wrote: Be aware that some people will name the same color depth differently. For example, True Color generally refers to representation with twenty-four total bits of color information, eight bits each for red, green, and blue. Some people call True Color 24-bit color and others call it 8-bit color. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Your favorite model, your ideal model
Here's something just for fun again: For those who do or have shot portraits, who was your favorite model? who would be your ideal model? My favorite was a mischievous little boy. My ideal; Audrey Hepburn. Pure elegance. Collin * I know what I'm doing. Pickard, Star Trek: First Contact - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Scanning Terminology Questions
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Scanning Terminology Questions Bit depth is how many tints of color are available. With 8 bits per color you are limited to 256 tints. More is better. This is the second person to make this false statement so it needs correction REAL FAST. With 8 bits per color you do not have 256 colors, you have 256 CUBED colors which is 16.7 MILLION colors, quite a difference. Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure black can be recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the difference between the two numbers. You could compare it to the contrast grade of your B$W paper. Another falsehood. Density range (Dmax) is the ratio between the lightest recorded intenity and the darkest recorded intensity. The number is the exponent using base 10. Thus if Dmax is 1, the range is 10:1 , if Dmax is 2, the range is 100:1, and if the Dmax is 3, the range is 1000:1, and so on. The higher the dmax the better on a scanner as it will be able to capure a much wider range of shades accurately. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Your favorite model, your ideal model
Ooo, Collin, You've hit the nail right on the head. I have a serious Audrey Hepburn fetish (no, not THAT kind of fetish!). She is the most beautiful creature ever to have graced this earth. I have the joy of staring at her poster hanging in my bathroom. And her calendar in my kitchen. Of course being dead poses a problem. I'll have to give some thought to living persons. Gwyneth Paltrow comes to mind, especially when she had that short hair in Sliding Doors, but then she let her hair grow out, so maybe not. I'll think about it and possibly post later tonight. As far as Favourite So Far: any of my three kids, with my most recent ex-girlfriend a close second. Collin Brendemuehl wrote: Here's something just for fun again: For those who do or have shot portraits, who was your favorite model? who would be your ideal model? My favorite was a mischievous little boy. My ideal; Audrey Hepburn. Pure elegance. Collin * I know what I'm doing. Pickard, Star Trek: First Contact - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
On 5 Jan 2002 at 16:33, Shel Belinkoff wrote: OK, let's look at it this way. Let's say we have a pixel, which we'll equate to an artist's canvas, and it's eight bits, and each bit is the equivalent of a can of paint of a different color. If the artist - or in this case the scanner - wants to paint a picture on the canvas, there are only so many colors that he can choose from, or mix. If each pixel had 16 bits, or 16 colors of paint, more colors could be mixed, and so on for 24 bits, 32 bits, etc. The more cans of different colors of paint there are, the more colors there are that can be created, and colors can be blended to produce smoother transitions. Is this something like bit depth? Am I getting close? No. It's more fundamental than that. There are only three sampled colours. The colour gamut that the scanner can represent is a function of the mix of these three colours vs the number of values of intensity that can be recorded. A bit is an arbitrary component of the binary digital number system. A conventional digital computer system can only represent numbers or any other data as a series of bits (8 Bits per Byte). Hence it uses a a number of bits (8,10,12 etc) to represent the measured intensity value of that colour. Consider a dichroic filter head on a colour enlarger, you know how you can mix the three colours to produce white light or a colour? Well instead of the colour filters being continuously variable consider that they can only be turned in pre-set increments. These increments would be analogous to steps in a digital system. Does this make any sense? Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Your favorite model, your ideal model
I LOVE THAT FUNNY FACE ! Cory Waters - Original Message - From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 8:26 PM Subject: Your favorite model, your ideal model Here's something just for fun again: For those who do or have shot portraits, who was your favorite model? who would be your ideal model? My favorite was a mischievous little boy. My ideal; Audrey Hepburn. Pure elegance. Collin * I know what I'm doing. Pickard, Star Trek: First Contact - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Scanning Terminology Questions
On 5 Jan 2002 at 20:29, J. C. O'Connell wrote: This is the second person to make this false statement so it needs correction REAL FAST. With 8 bits per color you do not have 256 colors, you have 256 CUBED colors which is 16.7 MILLION colors, quite a difference. Or more precisely you have 256 colours per colour channel per pixel and 16.7million colours per pixel. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Shel, I haven't followed the thread, but here is what I know about scanners and bits. You know colors are approximated on your computer by combining 3 different colors, red - green - blue. Your scanner will separate your pictures into these three color channels. A 4 bit green color scanner would give you 16 (2*2*2*2) different shades of green in your scan. A 5 bit green scan would give you 32 different shades. A 6 bit green scan would give you 64 different shades. With another 6 bits for the red color channel, you could have 64 different shades of red. With another 6 bits for the blue channel, you would have 64 different shades of blue. Combining the three channels would give you an 18 bit scanner...still pretty poor as you wouldn't like the reproduction from your scanner. So basically, more bits in your scanner means more different gradations of colors in your scanned picture. A 24 bit scanner uses 8 for each channel so you have 256 shades of any primary color (2*2*2*2*2*2*2*2=256). A 30 bit scanner uses 10 bits for each channel so you have 256*2*2=1024 different shades of any primary color. Shel, I think you can figure out the rest. The more gradations of color you can put into your scan, the better the final product As an interesting side note, one of the functions on Microsoft Windows lets you set your screen colors. If you look at some of the lower settings (the ones you aren't using), you'll get an idea of how more bits for colors helps the quality of the reproductions you see. Now, I just hope everything I said is correct. g I'm sure you guys will correct me if not. G Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Thanks for everyone trying to explain this to me. I do not understand any of the responses. Could someone please explain this to me like I was a child, and perhaps avoid jargon, acronyms, and the like. I'm really ignorant about this and I'd like to buy a scanner this year. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
That makes sense. All the rest kinda went over my head. In my mind it's like the paint analogy ... many different shades of three colors. Anyway, my understanding is now close enough for my needs. Thank goodness I have a dichro head enlarger, or else I'd ask what ~that~ is. g Thanks! Rob Studdert wrote: Consider a dichroic filter head on a colour enlarger, you know how you can mix the three colours to produce white light or a colour? Well instead of the colour filters being continuously variable consider that they can only be turned in pre-set increments. These increments would be analogous to steps in a digital system. Does this make any sense? -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Thanks Bob ... That helped a lot. Simple examples with a ~little~ technical stuff thrown in works for me. Now, how does electricity work? [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Shel, You know colors are approximated on your computer by combining 3 different colors, red - green - blue. Your scanner will separate your pictures into these three color channels. A 4 bit green color scanner would give you 16 (2*2*2*2) different shades of green in your scan. A 5 bit green scan would give you 32 different shades. A 6 bit green scan would give you 64 different shades. With another 6 bits for the red color channel, you could have 64 different shades of red. With another 6 bits for the blue channel, you would have 64 different shades of blue. Combining the three channels would give you an 18 bit scanner...still pretty poor as you wouldn't like the reproduction from your scanner. So basically, more bits in your scanner means more different gradations of colors in your scanned picture. A 24 bit scanner uses 8 for each channel so you have 256 shades of any primary color (2*2*2*2*2*2*2*2=256). A 30 bit scanner uses 10 bits for each channel so you have 256*2*2=1024 different shades of any primary color. Shel, I think you can figure out the rest. The more gradations of color you can put into your scan, the better the final product As an interesting side note, one of the functions on Microsoft Windows lets you set your screen colors. If you look at some of the lower settings (the ones you aren't using), you'll get an idea of how more bits for colors helps the quality of the reproductions you see. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
But it was simple enough to help me grasp the concept. All the technical talk just goes right over my head. Through a simple example, even if it's an oversimplification, I'm able to get a hold of the general idea, which is really all I need at this point. Your example, while it may be more technically correct, doesn't allow me to visualize the concept, and I need some sort of visualization to get the idea. That's how my mind works. But thanks for jumping in. At some point I may understand all the math J. C. O'Connell wrote: Density range is how much of a scale for pure white to pure black can be recorded on an scale of 0=white to 4=black. Dynamic range is the difference between the two numbers. You could compare it to the contrast grade of your B$W paper. Another falsehood. Density range (Dmax) is the ratio between the lightest recorded intenity and the darkest recorded intensity. The number is the exponent using base 10. Thus if Dmax is 1, the range is 10:1 , if Dmax is 2, the range is 100:1, and if the Dmax is 3, the range is 1000:1, and so on. The higher the dmax the better on a scanner as it will be able to capure a much wider range of shades accurately. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Thanks to everyone who jumped in and tried to help me. I think I've got the concept now. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: Your favorite model, your ideal model
The lady who owns the farm we have our horse at has asked me to get candid portraits of her two daughters as she has very few since leaving teenhood for adulthood.I;v managed a few(they bolt on camera sight)but now i have some newer(to me )prime M42's i hope to get more for her.They both are very photogenic and make lovely BW subjects. As far as who i would like to tackle:Ozzy Osborne or any of the Pythons. BW of coarse. Dave(I am Pentax man)Brooks Begin Original Message From: frank theriault [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 20:34:50 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Your favorite model, your ideal model Ooo, Collin, You've hit the nail right on the head. I have a serious Audrey Hepburn fetish (no, not THAT kind of fetish!). She is the most beautiful creature ever to have graced this earth. I have the joy of staring at her poster hanging in my bathroom. And her calendar in my kitchen. Of course being dead poses a problem. I'll have to give some thought to living persons. Gwyneth Paltrow comes to mind, especially when she had that short hair in Sliding Doors, but then she let her hair grow out, so maybe not. I'll think about it and possibly post later tonight. As far as Favourite So Far: any of my three kids, with my most recent ex-girlfriend a close second. Collin Brendemuehl wrote: Here's something just for fun again: For those who do or have shot portraits, who was your favorite model? who would be your ideal model? My favorite was a mischievous little boy. My ideal; Audrey Hepburn. Pure elegance. Collin * I know what I'm doing. Pickard, Star Trek: First Contact - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
Ann wrote: I see the word program and I immediately have an attack of belinkoffitis ;) Ah, but Ann --- it's *super* program, not that wimpy do-it-all program !8^D - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 03:19 AM, Flavio Minelli wrote: Did you ever wonder why there are so many used Sigma 28-105/2.8 for sale? That one is real crap and the fast (relativeley) aperture is just bait... I totally agree. My SMC-M 28mm f2.8 (which is the worst lens I own in my estimation) easily outperforms it. In fact, the only lens that I've used that I would consider worse than it at 28mm is the Pentax 28-200 (though we might have had a bad sample -- when I was working at Sterling we ended up sending the one we had in the store back to Pentax after doing a lens test). Brendan can tell you about the Sigma 28-105 f2.8-4. He bought one (from me) against my recommendation...and whaddaya think about it, Brendan? :) -Aaron - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 01:09 PM, Fred wrote: Har! Belinkoffitis? I ~love~ the concept... g Wait, wait... doesn't that mean inflammation of the Belinkoff?? -Aaron - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7
On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 10:09 AM, David Brooks wrote: Me too.L ove the barn shot. Thanks! I made 'em stop the car on the drive back home when I saw that. Nothing like requesting a stop during a nine hour drive to make the other passengers crabby at you. ;) -Aaron - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Manual Focus Feel (Was Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 ...
On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 07:41 AM, Paul Stenquist wrote: Fred wrote (in regard to focus feel} Now there are some who claim that the best screwmount lenses are better than any K-mount lens. I have some mint Ks and SMC Taks. I like the focus feel of both, but slightly prefer the Taks. I would say that the difference iis tactile rather thanmechanical. The SMC Taks feel better because the focus ring is scalloped metal, and is a delight to work with. I'm a fan of the focus feel of the M series lenses and the Super Takumars. Actually, on holiday I got to play extensively with a Nikon F3 for the first time (it was the camera of one of our hosts). While I liked the layout of the camera -- not as much as the LX, mind you -- I found the focus feel of the lenses quite poor compared to what I was used to, in particular the 50mm f1.4. I found it quite sloppy and loose for a manual focus lens. Anyhow, nothing that I've ever used can touch the MF feel of Pentax's 6x7 lenses. They're all remarkable: fluid, yet solid. Easy to turn, but they stop right where you want them to. Hell, if there were AF lenses available for the 67, I wouldn't use them, because of how much I enjoy focusing the lenses! The Pentax 67 system is just spectacular. -Aaron - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
21 Pentax Screwmount items for Auction
Just put up a whole new bunch of stuff up. Some items are LIKE NEW. Check it out at: http://www.gate.net/~hifisapi/JCO_AUCT.HTM Items for Sale by jco (620) Includes current auctions and Buy It Now items by the seller. Seller, view high bidder email addresses . 1 - 20 of 20 total, Click on the column headers to sort. Item Start End Price Title High Bidder / Status 1318649509 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:15:28 $39.99 Asahi Pentax 200mm F4 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318650991 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:18:54 $39.99 Asahi Pentax Copipod for Copy work No Bids Yet 1318652911 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:22:12 $59.99 Asahi Pentax 85mm F1.9 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318653397 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:25:19 $24.99 Asahi Pentax 50mm F1.4 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318654855 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:28:27 $29.99 Asahi Pentax 50mm F1.4 SMC-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318658568 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:35:01 $49.99 Asahi Pentax 50mm F4 SMC-MACRO-Takumar No Bids Yet 1318659922 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:38:33 $39.99 Asahi Pentax 28MM F3.5 SMC-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318661145 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:41:42 $79.99 Asahi Pentax 35mm F2.0 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318663473 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:46:38 $39.99 Asahi Pentax Autobellows Closeup Unit No Bids Yet 1318667262 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:55:56 $49.99 Asahi Pentax 105mm F2.8 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318668021 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 18:59:13 $29.99 Asahi Pentax 135mm F3.5 SMC-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318669888 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:02:32 $2.99 APS 2X Teleconverter for Pentax Screwmount No Bids Yet 1318670999 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:05:45 $39.99 Asahi Pentax Spotmatic 35mm SLR w Lens No Bids Yet 1318672579 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:08:54 $9.99 Formula 5 28mm F2.8 Lens - Pentax Screwmount No Bids Yet 1318673542 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:12:26 $79.99 Asahi Pentax 24mm F3.5 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318674697 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:15:40 $29.99 Asahi Pentax 35mm F3.5 SMC -Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318676281 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:18:50 $49.99 Asahi Pentax 35mm F2.0 Super-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318677628 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:21:59 $59.99 Asahi Pentax 135mm F2.5 SMC-Takumar Lens No Bids Yet 1318678798 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:25:09 $89.99 Asahi Pentax 85-210mm SMC-Takumar Zoom Lens No Bids Yet 1318679958 Jan-05-02 Jan-15-02 19:28:16 $49.99 Quantaray 400mm F6.3 Lens - Pentax Screwmount No Bids Yet Announcements | Register | SafeHarbor (Rules Safety) | Feedback Forum | About eBay Copyright © 1995-2001 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the eBay User Agreement and Privacy Policy. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful,
I was recently going through old slides, like really old. From 1968. I was remembering that my first roll of film through my first SLR, that year, was really my second. I got the Nikkormat at Christmas, went with my girlfriend and future in-laws to Lion County Safari near Miami, and took 45 wonderful shots before I realized that the film was not winding. Since I was driving, we looped around and went back through the whole experience again. But this time no lion climbed up on the hood of the car . . . I have made the same mistake once or twice since then. Stan From: Peter Spiro [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 23:22:52 + To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Either myself or MX not so wonderful, Maciej, you can always tell if the film is winding by watching the rewind knob.? If the film is moving through properly, the rewind knob will also turn as you wind the film for the next shot.?This kind of thing where you lose a whole roll of film doesn't happen too often if you are careful, but it can certainly be painful when it does happen.? Some day, perhaps, Pentax will make a digital SLR?camera that will let us see our pictures right away. Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)
Hi Kristian, Yes, I saw it with the 43 also, and your photo shows it nicely. And it's a quality I've seen in photos taken with Leica lenses too. It's well discussed that great bokeh has been associated with a degree of spherical aberration, and in fact the 105 F2 DC Nikkor portrait lens actually allows the user to dial in some spherical aberration. Since what we're looking at happens differently off axis, and appears to revolve around the center axis of the lens, I wonder if this is indeed just a picture of spherical aberration? This is probably why the lens exhibits such nice background blur at larger apertures with smooth transitions when there are no real highlights but just more even tones. Is it literally distorting the background and blurring it into the next tone like an artist who would be smearing wet paint? We need a lens guru for this one. Thanks, Ed http://lightandsilver.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Kristian Walsh Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:13 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!) Hi Ed, I agree, and I've seen this with pictures taken with the 43 too. The only example I have isn't as clear-cut as yours, but if you compare the shape of the spots in the top right to those at the top of the frame in: http://homepage.mac.com/walshk/moira.jpeg ...you might see it. The distortion is very slight, and I only notice the squashing of the highlights with the lens wide open. Once stopped down, it's very difficult to see a difference. Nothing I'm losing sleep over, and far outweighed by the wonderful pictures this lens produces... -- Kristian On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 10:26 pm, Ed Mathews wrote: Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water. A week or so ago there was some limited g discussion about the Nikon 105, it's bokeh, and the 77 bokeh. I mentioned that the 77 yields nice bokeh, with some football (American football) shaped highlights. Nobody commented about that, and probably nobody understood what I meant. So I thought I'd take a picture of my Christmas tree lights out of focus to show you. This is background bokeh, with the brightest lights about 7 feet away, and the lens focused to about 3 feet. In this shot, the lens is at F2.8. In other shots I took at smaller apertures, the highlights of course get smaller, and the football shapes start to get more round. It appears to me that the shape becomes more oblong closer to the edge, and that they kind of look like they circle around the center axis. Tell me what you think. http://lightandsilver.com/Temp/77.htm Thanks, Ed http://lightandsilver.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Developing Tri-X 400
J. C. O'Connell wrote: I think it's better to experiment with film speed and development time keeping film, developer, developer temp, developer dilution, agitation all constant. That way you can really get best results. T I agree. It's best to perfect one developer before moving on. It's not Tri-X but here's one setup that works fantastic for me: Film : Tmax 100 ISO: 80 Deveolper : Tmax liquid Deveolper dilution : 1:9 ( 1 shot use ) Diluted Developer Amount : 400ml Per roll (36) Developer Temp. : 24 deg. C Agitation : constant with roller Development Time : 6.5 minutes Use stop bath : Yes I'm going to try your Tmax 100 recipe. While I've had great success with Tmax 400. I haven't had much success with Tmax 100. With Tmax 400, I generally expose it at ISO 200, then develop it in D76 1:1 for 11 minutes at 68 deg. F. I agitate 15 times for 5 seconds each time. I use stop bath, but I precede it with a water rinse. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Either myself or MX not so wonderful,
I once shot a whole roll ( or what I thought was a whole roll ) on a spotmatic before I realized that the film wasnt advancing. It's photographic RAPE!! What an empty feeling. I didnt figure it out until my exposure counter got to 28 on a 24 roll. From that day on I always look at the rewind knob when loading the camera and even as I shoot the roll. Never happened again. At least with the spotmatics you can check that way as you go. What about the new autowinder cameras? Is there any way to tell if the film is really advancing? I wouldnt be too confident using one if you cant. JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mz-M, basic Photography and some questions ..
Shel Belinkoff wrote: Paul Stenquist wrote: Shel Belinkoff wrote: Using a spot meter has helped me to better understand the subtleties of correct exposure, and has given me a better understanding of light and scene brightness. Coupled with an understanding of the zone system, the use of a spotmeter helps one make sense of it all. You pick a part of the scene that you want to fall in zone 3, and you meter it. Then you might look at the highlights and see if they will be recordable at that exposure. It's invaluable. Here's something fun to do. Find a scene with a good tonal range and meter the shadows, highlights, middle areas, and so forth, adjusting exposure each time to what you think is correct. So, lets say you meter a white house in the sun, open up two - three stops and shoot the scene. Meter a shadow and stop down a couple of stops, and so on. Then when you've processed the film, see how close you were to the right exposure. That does sound interesting. I've done it to a certain extent when I was really concerned about nailing a difficult exposure, but I've never completed the exercise. I'll have to give it a try. I've been shooting more BW lately. In part because I'm working with the 6x7, and 10 frames aren't as difficult to deal with in the darkroom as are 36. Plus I need some instant gratification :-) Paul The object of the exercise is to allow one to practice recognizing different aspects of the light and coordinating that with exposure and development. Theoretically, no matter where you meter, if you adjust the exposure properly each negative should be the same. After a while you won't have much need for a meter except in tricky lighting situations. The camera meter can only give you so much creativity and control. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?]
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 07:41:45 -0800 Subject: Re: Loading Film in LX [was: Didya miss me?] What difference does it make if the cap's on or off when loading the film? So you expose a couple of frames of your foot, or the floor, or a wall ... I don't understand the need to have the cap on. Shel - I typically have the lens cap on when loading film for the simple reason that my grip on the camera during film loading is not the same as any other time. The camera is more like cupped, lens surface down, in the palm of my left hand while I do the magic-fingers bit with my right hand. I doubt that I would actually smear body oils all over the front of the lens in the process, but why mess with it? I put on the cap, turn the speed dial to 250 or so, load and advance the film, reset the speed dial, take the cap off, and go on from there . . . Stan - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Scanning Terminology Questions
Shel Belinkoff wrote: Thanks for everyone trying to explain this to me. I do not understand any of the responses. Could someone please explain this to me like I was a child, and perhaps avoid jargon, acronyms, and the like. I'm really ignorant about this and I'd like to buy a scanner this year. Shel, You want to make photographs from film, so what you need is the best film scanner you can afford. I would think that the top of the line Nikon Coolscan would fulfill your needs. You want to be able to scan at 4000 dpi, and I'm sure the good Nikons can do that. If you're going to do medium format as well as 35, you'll have to spend more money. Don't buy a flatbed scanner. You won't want to scan prints. It's pointless for a photographer. I use an Agfa Duoscan 2500T which is a very expensive compromise (It's a dual purpose flatbed and film scanner that sells for about $3500.) But it belongs to the company I work for, so I don't have a nickel in it. If I ever lose access to that Agfa, I'll be buying th Nikon film scanner. Paul - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
