I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of the
eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears open. I
plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in changing
layout of supply or redesigning it physically.
Is there a
This may be the droid you are looking for:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:
I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of
the eight cap
Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow it.
I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required?
I really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW
On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:
I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a
little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of
concern with this method is the length of brass rod running along
-Original Message-
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net; John King k5...@yahoo.com
Sent: Fri, Jan 17, 2014 11:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply
I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply
I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a
little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of
concern with this method
I have a noisy blower in my L4B, not the motor itself but the fan I think
touching the side of the amp case. I have a replacement blower if the original
cannot be fixed. I'd like to send the RF deck to someone along with the second
blower for repair, any recommendations as to who will do
Tim,
Evan K9SQG might be able to help you .
k9...@aol.com
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Hi Tim,
Replacing the blower on the L-4B is not brain surgery. It is easy to do
yourself. Be sure the caps in the PS are discharged by leaving the rig off
for 15 minutes or so. Disconnect the power supply from the power source.
Disconnect all the connectors on the rear panel and take the
Tim you may find that the grommets have dried out over the years and worn,
you can replace them while your at it and might just find that's the
problem. It was on mine and still quite as a church mouse.
The grommets can be purchased at your local hardware store, or auto parts
house, very cheap.
I've had numerous L4/L4B amps over my 47 years as a ham and fixed about
just as many. Still have 3 of them here in different stages of projects.
One thing I have always disliked is the heat from those 50K resistors. I
can fry an egg on the top of my power supplies. That is a lot of
Happy 4th of July Drake enthusiasts!! Start your holiday off with a bang.
I've got a perfectly working power supply transformer for the L4 or L7
power supply. As you know this baby is heavy and shipping will be calculated
based on your location. Asking $160.00 for the transformer plus
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,
Looking for a hen's tooth, so to speak. Specifically, I need an ALC knob for
an L4B. The knob is very similar to the driver/preselector knob on a C line
BUT a white line is also present. While I have a driver/preselector knob for a
C line which I might be able to
My primary amp, a Drake L4B, is in need of a better cabinet. The top and
bottom covers have waves, bends, etc. in the lower left corner region that I
have not been able to straighten out. If you have a top and/or bottom, in good
to excellent condition (no dents, waves, gouges, etc.) for sale,
Stew
Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage
breakdown of the bleeder resistor. While we normally think of resistors
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to
ground. I
david_...@comcast.net
To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds
Stew
Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage
breakdown of the bleeder resistor. While we
To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds
Stew
Based on your description my expectation is that you
To be on the safe side, bond the amplifier chassis and the PS chassis
together with a suitable length of shield from a piece of coax or similar
cable.
It certainly makes a big difference with the Hallicrafters SR-2000
Hurricane and P-2000 power supply. It is probably not a bad idea with any
John
There is a ground wire in the cable that connects to pin 7 on both
PS and amplifier that ties the chassis together. As I understand
the metering system of the L4B/L7 you will always have the high
voltage return sitting slightly above chassis due to the grid
,
milliohms make a difference!
Steve, W1ES/4
-Original Message-
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
Sent: Jan 3, 2012 11:26 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity
Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a little
d...@martineer.net
Cc: richard radke rar...@excite.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
Don -
There seems to be a lot of confusion over 'silver solder' and 'silver-bearing
solder'.
Silver solder melts at around 1300 degree F, and is typically applied with a
small
All,
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions. Solder on the pins all look
ok. .5Ω's on each filament. I'm guessing a grid to filament short/
leak when it gets hot. I did notice a slight bit of clouding near
the top of the envelope that wasn't there before. Maybe from running
the
Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a little
bit red in operation for the gettering to work.
Also, just a tiny bit of extra resistance in the filament pin is all it takes
to dim a tube. An ordinary Ohmmeter won't register the difference.
73
-Jim
On Tue, 3
: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 10:26 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity
Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a
little bit red in operation
: [Drakelist] L4B oddity
Agree. Using an ohm meter would show little unless zero. For example, if
the resistance caused by the pin adds 0.1 ohm, then for a 15 amp filament,
that is a 1.5 volt drop; 30% less than normal. If you had a grid to
filament short you were right on time for the new year's
I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B. Evan, you out
there? Been working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new
year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other. I
reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite
hole, and the amp and
On the first question, I have heard of the solder melting out of the pins on
the filaments of both the 3-500Z and the 3-400's. If that has happened to
your tube, you might be able to just re-solder it and be okay. Some have
said to silver solder it, but it seems to me that silver solder
I just opened up my L4B to do some minor work on it. I noticed that the plate
choke looks like it has overheated - discolored brown around the middle of it.
Wonder if anyone has experienced this - common problem with the L4B? Or a
symptom that something is wrong?
The amp works fine
Assaf, III
W5XU
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of richard radke
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:31 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity
I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B. Evan
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 19:41:59 -0600, David wrote:
Do a very close and careful check of the filament pins on the tube. The
tube sockets used were notorious for relaxing the friction connection on the
pins; the higher resistance created heat and the solder of the pins flowed
out. The fix is to
Don -
There seems to be a lot of confusion over 'silver solder' and 'silver-bearing
solder'.
Silver solder melts at around 1300 degree F, and is typically applied with a small torch. It's
primarily used for jewelry and other tasks needing a 'hard' solder. I doubt if the glass metal
seals
On Mon, 02 Jan 2012 22:26:58 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:
There seems to be a lot of confusion over 'silver solder' and 'silver-bearing
solder'.
Indeed, someone edumacated me on the semantics some time back. I've been
asked the question often enough that I still have the display card from the
Thanks for that clarification, Garey. I had never heard of silver-bearing
solder. I've told you that I never was in electronics professionally, and
only had the minimal USN training for radio ops, not the Electronics Techs
that did get the full, good stuff, hi.
The silver solder I was
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012 22:07:05 -0600, Don Cunningham wrote:
I use 63/37 here nearly all the
time, only use the 60/40 outside on the antenna wires in a larger size and
was afraid the 63/37 would melt too easily.
63/37 melts at almost the same temp as 60/40, but it has the advantage of going
from
Fellow enthusiasts,
Had a question about the 0.82 protection resistor in an L7 power supply, which
is identical to the supply used for the L4B and almost identical to the one
used with the L4. I've been using this configuration for almost 10 years
without any problems. I've had
Evan -
I wonder if this is a symptom of the 'new and improved' resistors offered to 'replace' the IRC BWH
resistor originally used. Drake originally specified to use _ONLY_ type BWH resistors for
replacement.
IRC sells the SPH series as a replacement, and it is a wirewound resistor like
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,
Have a rebuild kit that is excess to my needs. Consists of the Harbach
Electronics retrofit board, capacitors, diodes, and resistors, ready for
mounting. All new. This is ONLY for somebody familiar with the power supplies
and working with high voltage
*Hello again, I installed the Harbach soft key, and power supply refurbish
kit and also the soft start, it all works great except for the soft start
which does not kick in as it should. You do not hear the click as you should
and the 25 ohm 25 watt resistor gets very hot as a matter of fact we
of me and I can't recall
what the viltage should be.
BE CAREFUL in there!
73,
John, W4AWM
-Original Message-
From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 10:59 am
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start)
Hello again, I installed
I put a Harbach Soft Start in my Heathkit SB-200. It was wired correctly and
installed per instructions – everything was double and triple checked. When
I powered up the amp the Harbach Soft Start immediately when up in smoke –
boy did it stink up the shack for a few days.
I contacted Jeff
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start)
I put a Harbach Soft Start in my Heathkit SB-200. It was wired correctly and
installed per instructions – everything was double and triple checked. When I
powered up the amp the Harbach Soft Start immediately when up in smoke – boy
did it stink up
ww8x@gmail.com; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 6:54 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start)
The soft start kits sold by Harbach are totally different for SB-220
amps and L-4B amps. My opinion is they are both way over
priced. The PC layouts are done
I have homebrew soft starts in my L-4B and L-7 amps. They work fine and
easily fit both amps. While I was at it, I installed a relay to bypass the
switch contacts on the now unobtainable power switch and dropped the filament
voltage to slightly below 5V.
I had planned to do an article on
*Hello, as you will be able to tell I'm not a tech, just a broke down Old
Vietnam Vet who loves Drakes and am lucky enough to have a good collection.*
*My question is I am in the process of redoing a L4B, using the Harbach
Mods, soft start, soft key and power supply kit. I am having problems
Hi Woody,
I added a Harbach Soft Start board to my L-4B about a year ago and I mounted
it exactly where the soft start instructions suggested and it works very
well. You will need to adjust slightly the binding post where the small
electrolytic cap is mounted, but that is all.
Good luck with
Woody - Well, it's been 32 years since I did the 10m mod on my new L-4B but as
I recall you should be able to simply replace the LP filter with a straight
piece of coax (can't help with the 10m input coil/cap procurement). Once
that's done you should have no problem putting the Soft-Start PCB
*Anyone know where you can get the fan mounting Grommets for the L4B?*
*Thanks *
*Woody (KO4BG)*
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Just as I have heard all the stories of power supplies being destroyed, my
L4B power supply did just that. Turned on the amplifier just like I always
have heard a big bang and looking to find the noise and then saw the fire.
Turned off the L4B and removed the 220 volt plug from the wall just in
Sent: Wed, Feb 23, 2011 8:23 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B power supply fire!
Just as I have heard all the stories of power supplies being destroyed, my L4B
power supply did just that. Turned on the amplifier just like I always have
heard a big bang and looking to find the noise and then saw
Lee,
You might want to consider pulling the feed thru caps from the RF
deck while your doing your up-grades. Yours are more than likely 30+
years old and any drop-in replacements (if you can find 'em) probably
are too. Been there a couple of times in the last several years. I
think it
...@excite.com
To: kc9...@aol.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 2:02:05 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B PS
Lee,
You might want to consider pulling the feed thru caps from the RF
deck while your doing your up-grades. Yours are more than likely 30+
years old and any drop
I, too, need information regarding replacement of my L4B blower. Thanks and 73,
John, K5PGW
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item
listed.
73, Ron / WB4HFN
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of John
King
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 3:41 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B blowers
I, too, need information regarding
I also agree with Ron on this one. The 3-500's work best with 100
watts of drive. Less won't make them last any longer even though it
seems counterintuitive. Try and find a way to get 220 in to the
shack. Do it when the wife is out of town because it may involve
drilling some holes.
A simple question (as if there really are any) about the Keying circuit of an
L4B. Because I use several radios to drive the L4B I have a relay connected to
the amplifier keying circuit that really only grounds the leads, that has now
failed to work. I looked at the schematic and it appears
John -
The relay circuit in the L-4B is a very simple half-wave supply on a
dedicated winding of the filament transformer. The you should measure
~30 VDC from one pin to chassis, the 'other' pin is grounded. The
reference about 'reversing the pins' is because some transmitters have
one relay
...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wed, Aug 18, 2010 2:26 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B KEYING CIRCUIT FAILURE
A simple question (as if there really are any) about theKeying circuit of an
L4B. Because I use several radios to drive the L4B I havea relay connected to
the amplifier keying
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 12:00 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B KEYING CIRCUIT FAILURE
Evan -
Good point! I assume too much
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
K9sqg wrote:
John,
For the VOX connector/circuit to work, the ALC pot switch must
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On
Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 12:00 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B KEYING CIRCUIT FAILURE
Evan -
Good point! I assume too much
73, Garey
Fellow enthusiasts,
I'm trying to restore one of my L4Bs that I use for the Drake nets on 40 and 75
meters. I've rebuilt and upgraded the power supply and am having a difficulty
with the cabinet which was bent/distorted in two or three places while the amp
was in the possession of a
Found the boxes that the feed through caps came (miracle), anyway
the boxes read Sprague by pass capacitor 80P3 .1 MF 600 WVDC
516 .0693-000 . These were purchased from Surplus Sales of Nebraska
for $18/each. I hope this helps, been using the L4B for six months and no
problem
so far. I have
Karl -
Yep, those are the Sprague 'HyPass' caps. They are rated for 20A, which
is a little disconcerting, but there seem to be few failures. SSN
doesn't have them any more though.
The current limitation would be the size of the internal conductor, and
the attachment method at each end. I
This is the only bypass feedthrough (second item) I can find on SSN that
would be a replacement for the original Sprague unit.
http://www.surplussales.com/Feedthrus/FTholeMnt4.html
They are $25 each, but will be operating within spec, (30A,) and have
nice, solid bolt terminations on each end.
Last year I was helped immensity by Rick Radke regarding finding replacement
capacitors for the L4B. Rick told me where to find them which was surplus
sales
of Nebraska
www.surplussales.com they were $18/each . they were .1 uf 500-220vkbp-f feed
thru capacitors.
Rick had had a problem with
...@yahoo.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, August 6, 2010 6:09:04 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] l4b feed through filament caps
Last year I was helped immensity by Rick Radke regarding finding replacement
capacitors for the L4B. Rick told me where to find them which was surplus
sales
Karl -
I looked at SSN before, but the biggest one I saw was 20A. The NexTek
line looks like they may have something, but...
Allied has some that may work, but they're $50 each.
Do you have a part number for the ones from SSN??
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line
Hi all
I had my L-4B amp tore down doing some cleaning on it and fixing the blower
fan. I notice a blown .1 cap C-26 going to RFC 2 and
the filament. It is stamp .1 Z5V +80 -20 on the capacitor. Look everywhere
and no luck. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Bob WØVU
Hi Bob.
I can't say for sure as I haven't opened up my L-4B, but I would
imagine what you have is a .1uf cap, 25V, +80%/-20% tolerance.
73
- Mark N1VQW
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@zerobeat.net drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, Aug 5, 2010 6:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B amp
Hi Bob.
I can't say for sure as I haven't opened up my L-4B, but I would
imagine what you have is a .1uf cap, 25V, +80%/-20% tolerance.
73
- Mark N1VQW
Hi
I am refurbishing an L4B which for some reason is missing its band-change
control knob. I wonder if anyone here can guide me to the source of a
replacement?
Any help much appreciated.
Many thanks.
Bob, 5B4AGN
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Bob
If you find a source please let me know.
Thanks Tim
wb8uhz
From: Bob Henderson bob.5b4...@gmail.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, July 1, 2010 10:22:37 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Band-switch control knob
Hi
I am refurbishing an L4B which
a beefy item.
Have an enjoyable, safe 4th of July holiday weekend.
73,
Evan
-Original Message-
From: amfone amfone20...@yahoo.com
To: Bob Henderson bob.5b4...@gmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 1, 2010 3:29 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B Band-switch control knob
Hi to the Group --
Yes, by all means check the dummy load for opens and shorts. What is happening
is high excessively high
current in the tank circuit due to a short or and open.
Besides, the load you are using you need to check your TR relay for full
contact - what this kind of sounds
The L4B uses a 24 vdc supply for powering the changeover relay. Does anybody
have an authoritative knowledge of what the current rating is for the winding?
I'm working on a project and would like to know if there is much of a reserve
capacity on that winding. Lacking the specification, I'll
Evan -
It's actually about 24 VDC, 60 mA to key the relay.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
k9...@aol.com wrote:
The L4B uses a 24 vdc supply for powering the changeover relay. Does
anybody have an authoritative knowledge
Can anyone help with Info on how to fix this problem?
Thanks, Wayne N1WR
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-
From: Wayne Rogers n...@chesapeake.net
To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Mar 5, 2010 1:14 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Plate Tuning Vernier Slips
Can anyone help with Info on how to fix this problem?
Thanks, Wayne N1WR
Looking at that site, I did see an advertisement from his collection that was
dated June 1968 showing the L-4B. Great site!
There was another ad ('63?) showing a woman sitting in front of a 2-B. Don't
remember my mom with those kind of glasses but do remember her dressing like
that.
Thanks a bunch for all the comments on the L4B birth dates.. I had, in fact,
looked in most of the sites suggested but, obviously didn't link up with the
right pages. Carl's comment on the schematic dates was a revelation...
Just finished a Swan 400 refurb and am now into an L4B upgrade but
Anyone on the list know for sure the year the L4B came out? I've been looking
all morning on the internet and no luck so thought I'd turn to the experts.
Thanks
Doc
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Doc -
The L-4 came out early in 1966. The L-4B came out mid 1969.
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL
Drake 2-B, 4B C-Line, TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
HaloNet wrote:
Anyone on the list know for sure the year the L4B came out? I've been looking
all morning on the internet
Doc,
If you haven't browsed Ron's website, _www.wb4hfn.com_
(http://www.wb4hfn.com) , and his serial number database, give it a try. Ron
has been
collecting the serial numbers and QC date stamps on Drake gear for quite a
number
of years. According to his database, the earliest recorded
While enjoying a wonderful QSO on 40 meters running my L4B at full power, I
noticed what appeared to be a flame out of a component in the power
supply then noticed the plate current meter was no longer showing movement.
However, my power output was not effected but I immediately shut the unit
Would the Drake enthusiast that contacted me about blower wheels please contact
me off list? As often occurs, AOL deleted some of my emails.
73,
Evan
k9...@arrl.net
=
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i have a blower that has a cracked plastic fan blade hub. it is making it spin
out of balance. just checking to see if anyone had access to them or a suitable
replacement.
thanks troy
KV4D
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What is the going price for a working power supply for an L4B?
TNX W5BXE
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The going price for an L-4B supply is around $450.00 for one in reasonably
good, unmodified and clean condition. Add more for one that has been
recapped. One question to ask is what condition the HV connector is in. They
are getting hard do find. Also, the HV cable, which appears to be
All,
Evan hit it right on the head. Didn't get a chance to dig into the
amp until tonight (work kept getting in the way). A cold solder
joint between the rf choke and the filament bus.
I removed the choke when I installed the new feed-thru caps to give
myself a little more room to work.
All,
I was working the CQ WW DX Friday night (C line and L4B) on 40,
picking up a couple new ones, cndx here were just so,so. All was
well, shut down. Resumed Saturday morning,
20 sounded in great shape. Tuned up the twins on the new band,
kicked in the L4B, and nothing. Amp turns on,
I am need of a Grid Current meter for a L4B, if anyone has one that they would
be willing to sell I am very interested. Thank you very much, Karl Corder
WA2OVJ
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Hi Karl,
Have you seen this on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/DRAKE-L-4B-PARTS-Plate-Volts-Grid-Meter_W0QQitemZ280398176563QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414908a133_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Good luck bidding.
Tom, W1CC
- Karl Corder karl.cor...@yahoo.com wrote:
I am need
On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:54:55 -0400, kc9...@aol.com wrote:
You got a deal then,,L-4B's in great working and physical condition go for
more like $750+
Well, the Jones connector on the end of the PS cable went up in flames when I
wired the amp for 220 Haven't gotten around to fixing that
I think someone on here was looking for an L4B power supply a few days ago.
http://cgi.ebay.com/DRAKE-L-4PS-POWER-SUPPLY-L-4-L-4B-L7-LINEAR-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ180400555945QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a00b607a9_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
On Wed, 26 Aug 2009 12:51:46 -0700 (PDT), GALE STEWARD wrote:
I think someone on here was looking for an L4B power supply a few days ago.
years later the
supply needed to be re-built, not hard to do... but I would not want to pay
that much for just the supply.
73 Tim
wb8uhz
--- On Wed, 8/26/09, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B Power Supply
To: Drakelist
Thanks to ALL for the help,
the L4B lives again, K5BTP has fixed it.
1 Graphite Tube bit the dust, an RF choke
two power supply resistors.
Regards, Joey
A.R.S. W5TFW
That's great , have fun with it, great amp.
Tim
WB8UHZ
--- On Tue, 8/25/09, Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW joeyw5...@gmail.com wrote:
From: Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW joeyw5...@gmail.com
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Repairs
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 7:13 PM
Thanks
If anyone has or knows where to obtain a identical Drake output rf switch for a
L4B I would appreciate the information. I have been refurbishing a L4B and
came to the conclusion that the switch I have is to iffy to put back in the L4B,
as it was broken in three places and the contacts bent and
Would like to know where to purchase a new or used( in excellant condition,
that is not broken or the
wipers not damaged and the contacts not burned) a L4B RF output switch or
could you advise me of a ceramic adhesive that would bond together a broken
ceramic switch that would stand up to the
I am in the need of a L4B rf output band switch, I checked John Kriners ebay
store
but didn't find it listed. My switch is cracked in two and some of the slider
contacts are
bent, It might be fixable but if anyone has a good switch I would appreciate
you letting me know. Thank you very much
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