You may also want to take a look at the Arcom RC-210 controller.
I have had very good luck with Arcom units. I have both Link-Com and Arcom
controllers in-service and prefer the Arcoms. I feel they give you the best
bang for the buck.
From my experiences with the TKR820's I would also
Eric,
Could you please give us a little more information please.
What radio are you presently using for your UHF repeater? Does it have a preamp
and if so what type? How much power out of the repeater transmitter do you
presently have?
Also what are you currently using for a duplexer and
Has anyone used one of these 5600 Series repeaters for amateur service and
interfaced it to a external controller. We use the Arcom RC-210 controllers.
It looks all do-able but thought if anyone had, there is no sense in
re-inventing the wheel.
Anyone know of a source of both the radio and
John,
Thanks for the more in-depth explanation.
Link antenna and feedline is about as good as you can get.
About the only improvement you might make is to get the two UHF antennas
directly under each other. That creates a cone of silence and make for the best
null.
No need for the 7/8 other
John,
I like the others on here believe that your frequency and antenna spacing is
too close to work with out filters and/or additional isolation.
I do have a couple questions about your UHF antennas and their placement on the
tower.
1. What type of antenna are you using for your link and is
john,
Forgot to ask in my first reply.
I am assuming that your link radio is also a Mastr II from your original post.
Is it a mobile or a station configuration?
Thanks,
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Godfrey ke5...@... wrote:
I was hoping you can help our club with a
Tim,
I just purchased a pair of Morad antennas for our club's repeater. they are
very similar in size to a super station master, right around 21 feet in length.
They make a 156 cut antenna for use on the fishing boats up in the Bering Sea
and make a 146 cut antenna for amateur repeater use.
Kevin,
Here is what I use.
A 100 Amp shunt with big wire connections to go in series with the battery
leads, and small set of screw terminals to connect to the sensing circuit. The
one below generates 100 MV of voltage at 100 amps of battery charge.
[mailto:Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:53 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Needed 88.5 Micor PL Reeds
Hello,
I am
Tom,
The marine commercial fishing guys around here on the Southern Oregon
Coast have been having pretty good luck with the Nanopulser units. One
of our local marine dealers have been selling the heck out of them and
the guys are saying 2 or 3 times battery life out of the batteries on
the boats.
Hello,
I am in need of a couple sets of 88.5 Micor series sponders and senders.
I do have several other tones in my reed collection to trade or let me
know what you want for them.
Please email me privately off the list if you have anything.
Thanks,
Joe - WA7JAW
Rick,
If you are not interested in using a 2 channel voter, the second best
way is to use a 2nd PL tone on the remote receiver.
I have done both and if you have a good group of users, the two PL
tone method works very well.
If you have a technology challenged group of users it can be a pain to
Ralph,
I use Scott's N3XCC method on our Micor repeaters. It uses the station
control module and squelch gate card.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/micor/micorstationconnectionnotes.html
I use the factory PL decoder and encoder, perform the modifications
for and squelch, which involves cutting
I have a question for the Mastr II guru's out there.
I know the 19D432500G1 PL board will do both Decode and Encode, but I
can not find any documentation that shows it operating in both modes
at the same time for repeater service.
I looked through the manual on the repeater-builder site, but
Butch,
Sounds good.
Thanks for the info.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Butch Kanvick hot...@... wrote:
Hi, Joe.
They use seperate Encode and Decode boards in the drawer of the radio.
I hope this answers your question.
Butch, KE7FEL/r
To:
Bob,
Which preamp you use to work properly in your situation depends on
several details.
We need a lot more information from you to make any firm
recommendations. There are cases where a lower gain preamp will
actually produce more measurable results. If for example the site has
a higher than
Bob,
I think I have to agree with Kevin on this one.
Do yourself a big favor and invest in a piece of heliax, before you
spend money on a preamp. It is a much better investment.
I use heliax, even if the run to the antenna is only 20'.
I also use 1/4 superflex for cabling between the duplexer
Denny,
I would stay away for those Maxar's. They were never a very good
radio, but they were a lot cheaper than buying a Maxtrac or Mitrek at
the time they came out.
I would stick with trying to find a 42-50 MHz Maxtrac or other
synthesized radio.
If you really want something in a crystal
Scott,
I have used both Angle Linear and ARR preamps, as well as factory GE
and Motorola units depending on the situation. I personally like the
Angle Linear preamps over the ARR units. Depending on the site, a
lower gain unit such as the factory GE preamp is a better choice on a
site with a
Mark is correct.
Micor receiver, do the below 445 MHz mods listed on the repeater-
builder website, use the factory PL decoder, and a Angle Linear
preamp. This combination is what we use on our link system here on
the Oregon Coast.
Receiver will typically open squelch at .1 uv or a little less
@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo
joeburkleo@ wrote:
I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF MSR2000 series radio
that is the pass/notch style. ...
I can not find any info on this unit ...
Joe,
I would use a 6-8 pass can on both the transmitter and receiver. That
will give you plenty of isolation. On a large site, I would recommend
using a circulator or isolator on the transmitter, just to be a good
neighbor, and the VHF Mastr II PA's really like them also.
Add a Angle Linear
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 11:24 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Duplexer Info Needed
Hello,
I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF
Hello,
I have a Motorola 4 can duplexer out of a UHF MSR2000 series radio
that is the pass/notch style. I am pretty sure Motorola also used
this same duplexer on the MSF5000 series of radios. I can not find any
info on this unit and I am having a problem with the notch on the low
pass side. I can
John,
I would have to agree with James here on this topic. A MTR2000 is
pretty spendy for most clubs.
For my money a MSF5000 is very hard to beat and I have found the
software to be a little more flexible for having the programming
options that work well for amateur radio use.
I would recommend
Hello All,
Does anyone have a main power relay for a UHF or 800 MHZ Micor 225
Watt PURC station? The relay is located on the High Voltage Power
Supply chassis, right below the 20 amp main power inlet fuse.
I will try and get a part number out of the manual in the morning.
Thanks,
Joe - WA7JAW
Robert,
Go with the Micor supply. It has a nice fero-resonant voltage
transformer that will operate continuous duty 24/7 at it's rated output.
I have seen a lot more Astron power supply's that have failed on
hilltops than I have seen failed Micor units, keeping in mind that I
have seen a lot more
Just out of curiosity are you performing these tests with a 1000 cycle
tone and if so, have you tried it with no modulation?
It almost sounds like it is going out of the bandpass of the receiver
when you increase the signal level. What happens when you vary the
frequency a few KC higher or lower
Has anybody tried to interface a Zetron Model 30 patch to a RC-210 or
any other multiple port controller?
The Model 30 resides on a mountain top connected to a cell phone.
It is only connected to one radio currently, but I want to make the
patch available to multiple radios on the site.
This is
I would start by removing the Mic DC from the exciter. I inject the
audio to pin 22 on the top row of pins on the backplane that goes to
the exciter interconnect board. I also cut the trace on the backplane
board that goes to pin 22, so that the only source of audio reaching
the exciter comes from
Just a couple simple hints here for best practices that I have found
works best on voted systems.
You want to keep all of the receivers connected to the voter the same.
You also want to keep all of the controllers and link radios at the
remote sites the same.
For example if your main repeater
Randy,
I could use some UHF Mitrek radios.
The numbers on the radios should be
UHF RADIO FCC TRANSMITTER NUMBER
T34 = 30 watt
T44 = 50 watt
T64 = 75 watt
T74 = 100 watt
UHF RADIO CHASSIS NUMBER
HUE1001B = 406 - 420 Mhz (30 watt)
HUE1002B = 450 - 470 Mhz (30 watt)
HUE1147A = 470 - 512 Mhz (30
Mark,
That is great news. You are to be complimented for not giving up on
the sometimes difficult Micor.
73,
Joe - WA7JAW
-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The new Joliet East GMRS repeater is ON-THE-AIR!
462.5500 PL 156.7
Thanks to
Tom,
My first question is what is the reflected power on the antenna?
With duplexer loss I am guessing that you would have about 70 watts
out of the duplexer, anything more than a couple watts reflected could
cause problems.
Yes, the LMR series of cable is really that bad for duplexer use.
Worse
Mike,
I normally use standard silver/teflon PL-259 connectors with a silver
plated ug/176 series adapter for the 1/4 superflex. To turn a
standard connector into a Andrew clone, just drill about a 1/8 hole
through the adapter, about a 1/3rd of the way down from the top.
Solder the copper jacket to
Larry,
According to my VHF PURC5000 manual the connections are:
Pin 1 - Gnd
Pin 2 - Rcvd Audio
Pin 3 - PL/DPL Disable
Pin 4 - nc
Pin 5 - A+
Pin 6-10 - nc
The mating connector is J2400 on the Control Board.
I have not opened up my UHF receiver to check and see how the pinouts
line up. I would
Sorry I do not have anything used. Not sure what a new CAT200 will set
you back these days, but if you are looking for a inexpensive 2 port
controller, I would look at one of Brian's Linker IIA ICS controllers
for under $140.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kk2ed [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Larry,
I do not have the manual that specifically covers the optional link
receiver chassis, which is what we both have.
I was using the pinout off the the opposite end of the cable where it
connects into the station. There is no reference that I have found any
reference to a COS input signal. It
they are delivering now is very straightforward to use and
works very well.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- On Wed, 9/24/08, Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Joe Burkleo [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted: 2-port controller
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday
Peter,
I will take a stab at this and some of the others can jump in and help
out also.
Yes, you are correct in your assumption as to how a community repeater
works. It is a single channel repeater with the ability to have
different user groups that each have their own PL or DPL Tone. The
Mark,
That sounds good. I should be available pretty much when ever you have
time. After 8 AM until 11 PM Pacific time should be OK.
I do not remember if you listed what the part number of the 4 user
modules that you have is. If they are not of the same vintage or
series as the Master Decoder
Larry,
I think you are headed in the right direction. I have most of a
MSF-5000 purc station and it has a UHF receiver much as you described
your 72 MHz receiver. I was surprised when I removed the covers and
found a Micor UHF receiver and Micor PL decoder inside the chassis.
I have the receiver,
Mark,
Sorry to hear that you are still fighting this problem.
I think we were on the right track when this kinda ended last month,
in that what you need to find is a Motrac series community repeater
manual that might show the TLN5803A Master Decoder. I have not been
able to turn one up yet.
I do
I can't be 100% sure about your particular radio, but years ago I had
a Motrac on 52.525 and I do not remember changing any parts. It was a
high split radio on 47 MHz. I do remember it had the noise blanker
option and it tuned up very well and met rated sensitivity and the
power out was right on
Bill,
Do you need the sender or the sponder, or both? I think there may be a
set in our collection. Let me know what you need and I will take a look.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Anyone have a Micor 74.4 PL reed laying around?
BillB
(there are a number of
backplanes out there in the field).
Cheers!
Lee
VE7FET
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo
joeburkleo@ wrote:
Hello,
I am in need of a Micor power supply to run a station off of a 12 Volt
battery bank. If anybody has one or two that they want to part
Bob,
I thought Eric's attack on Ken and the RC-210 controller was very
uncalled for also. The poor fellow asking for help, or the rest of us,
for that matter did not need to get drug into this several year old
disagreement between Eric and Ken.
All that was asked for was some help getting his
down for 24 hours with no
degradation
in power output).
Fred W5VAY (Retired GE Mobile Radio)
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Burkleo
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 12:54 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
for those who do not have knowledge or access to a milling
machine.
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Joe Burkleo wrote:
Kevin
Thanks for the information. I figured that if anyone had tried it you
would be aware.
I was just looking
Eric,
I just swap the modules from a Mobile into the station PA heatsink if
I have one die. They are the same modules, different heatsink.
I have found that if you back down the last output stage of the
exciter a little, the tripler and first stage of the PA is much
happier and the PA's will last
John, I will take a look.
Thanks a lot,
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, WD7F - John in Tucson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Forgot to addI never persued the SWR power reducing beyond the
simple divider. Our converstion won't drop power all the way to zero
when there's an
You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and
I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him, but
that was a couple months ago.
They are more like 350 Watts.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kb4ptj [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
hi i am looking
oops, UHF are 225-250 Watts, it is the VHF that are 350 Watts.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally and
I know he had a couple of these the last time I talked to him
and working
with high voltages, stay away from these. They are not for the faint
of heart, and the voltages present can be quite deadly.
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You might try contacting Larry K7LJ. He posts on here occasionally
@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Joe Burkleo wrote:
Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts
on the PA board?
Yes, the transistors will not make it. Motorola designed it that way.
If so what results have you had?
I have never seen or heard
Mathew,
I have several of these in service for 440 MHz amateur use. They are
the 225 watt UHF version. Most of the control wiring that connects to
the unified chassis is similar. I use the station control module and
the squelch gate card. This makes use of all of the proper keyed A-
paths for the
Mathew,
Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The
TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series
radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power
level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you
have and
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe Burkleo
joeburkleo@ wrote:
Mathew,
Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The
TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor
series
radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what
Has anyone ever tried to take a Micor VHF PA to 222 by changing parts
on the PA board? If so what results have you had?
Thanks,
Joe
John,
I have several of these up for repeaters here on the Oregon Coast.
They hold up pretty well. I would recommend a top brace if they are in
a harsh environment. I like their performance on UHF, they work very
well for their size and price.
On VHF they of course are a little lacking, and I
Steve,
I have had limited luck in using PVC. The thicker wall tubing is what
I prefer to use, but sometimes that is not the best material for UHF
antennas. I would stay away from the gray electrical PVC as it can do
some strange things with UHF frequencies passing through it. I have
not tried
Steve,
The coaxial colinear is my favorite home made repeater antenna. I
usually try and find a bad commercial antenna and suck the insides out
and replace with insides cut to ham frequency. I do not use RG-58 as
this article references, I will typically use RG-8 that does not have
foam type
Burt,
Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try when I get back to working
on that project.
I will let you know how successful we were.
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I had a few Sinclair LB cans (from a LB hybrid ring duplexor) some
years ago
You do realize that there are 2 seperate pieces of software that is
required to program the Desktrac repeaters. One is for the front panel
and the other is for the radios. There us a small switch on the front
panel that chooses which programming mode you are in.
Just to be clear as to what you
Dave,
I am not sure what your intended use of the repeater is, but you have
gotten lots of good advice. If you are looking for something to use at
your or a buddy's house, you can get by with a lot less investment
than if it is going up on a mountain top somewhere.
As was mentioned UHF or 900 MHz
Has anyone ever converted a 66-88 MHz Tx-Rx BpBr cavity for us on 6
Meters? I came across 2 of these and I could get them down to 57 MHz
but that was about it.
Thanks,
Joe - WA7JAW
Paul,
Our unit was a older version that used a bipolar device as Skipp had
mentioned.
It made more sense for us to replace the obsolete device with the new
updated board.
I think the price was around $375. I have it written down at work.
Joe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul
creative if needed.
73,
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 04:13 PM 8/6/2008, Joe Burkleo wrote:
Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that
Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450
Jim,
Not a lot of experience with the G-6 except for one site. It did work
OK, but we did replace it with a X-50NA this year, and it seemed to
gain a little more coverage. We have had excellent results here in the
NorthWest with the Diamond X-50NA antenna's. We have them on some
pretty rugged
Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that
Telelwave uses in their TWR series of multicouplers for 150 and 450?
Thanks,
Joe - WA7JAW
Ken,
Thanks a lot.
I will give you a call when I get a chance.
Joe - WA7JAW
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 04:13 PM 8/6/2008, Joe Burkleo wrote:
Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that
Telelwave uses in their TWR
be to open it up and snap a picture to
share with whom ever helps you find the replacement device.
cheers,
skipp
skipp025 at yahoo.com
Joe Burkleo joeburkleo@ wrote:
Anyone know the correct part number and a source for the FET's that
Telelwave uses in their TWR series
Mike,
If all you are looking at is 2 ports, I usually just use 2 4 pass
cans with the correct length cables to a T fitting for the antenna
input. Of course the output of the 2 pass cans go to the inputs of the
two receivers. You should use pass cans behind the multicoupler anyway
for isolation.
Mark,
OK, now back to where we started from, but much better.
I have a bunch of questions for you.
1. Do you have a local speaker hooked up? If so do you have audio out
of the speaker in either carrier squelch or PL mode?
2. Do you have repeat audio in carrier squelch mode? I know you do not
Mark,
Sorry to hear you are still having problems. The Micor series of
radios were made for many years and yes, there were several variations
of most every module made. That is one of the reasons that there was a
complete manual set delivered with each radio.
Without a whole drawer full of
Mark,
I think you have a good idea about starting fresh with an unaltered
board.
That would be my next move. It could not hurt to grab another set of
cards also. These are old enough that I have found some bad caps and
a bad transistor or two when going through my extra cards.
What I will
Jim,
On our commercial and amateur sites we use the Arcom RC-210
controllers for both amateur and commercial repeaters, as well as
total site monitoring. We have them reading voltage and charging
current on our solar sites with voice announcements. Monitoring the AC
power and starting and stopping
Mark,
It sounds like you may be missing the modifications on the
interconnect boards for and squelch. If the audio/squelch board has
been modified for and squelch and the interconnct board changes have
not been made, you will have repeat audio in PL Disable or carrier
squelch mode and no repeat
Mark,
I agree with Eric, you are aways away from cutting and hacking on
traces until we can identify exactly which backplane board you are
working with.
Most of the time that I have seen the TRN prefix, it usually has been
tied to the PURC series of radios. Are all of your backplane boards
that
Mark,
I think Eric is correct in that you have got a community repeater
chassis. These can be a handful to get properly jumpered and
configured. If you can not find a TLN5644A backplane board, this will
be a little more of a challenge.
I think you are in a holding pattern here until your
Bob,
That is good news. I thought your 8 can set would tune up much better
than the 6 can set I did. I had to mount the one I did on it's side
also. I just got a piece of angle aluminum from the scrap pile and
made a rack mount for the duplexer, so that it laid in the rack
horizontally. I have
Gary,
Duplexer of choice for me is the Sinclair Q2330E. I have had very good
results with these on our 75 Watt VHF Micor stations and we use a Angle
Linear preamp on the receivers.
In your situation where you have a brand new Telewave, I would be
tempted to call up Telewave and order 2 more
Bob,
One of the local guys bought one of these off Ebay a couple years ago.
It had six cavities - three per side. I was able to retune it to his
220 repeater frequency. It is a notch type duplexer. I was barely able
to get enough isolation for his repeater which was a converted GE MVP
with a ARR
I am looking for Micor PURC 225 or 250 Watt UHF stations.
We had a fire at a repeater site and lost a large collection of Micor
Stations and accessories. I had 1 PURC station on the air in the
building and another one stored there.
If anyone near the West Coast has any of these they are willing
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