Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-23 Thread robert via CnC-List

Dwight:

I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winter storage...what's 
the point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, and the line, with 
antifreeze and then "above the floor boards" "leave the bottom end 
of the pump submerged in the same mix"? Mine is submerged in the 
antifreeze in the bilge without removing it.


Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere is the 
occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that I sometimes 
soak up with a paper towel.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-23 9:26 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to 
above the floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with a 
50/50 mix of ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of the 
pump submerged in the same mix...I think that helps to keep the pump 
in good shape for next season


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Thoughts on bilge pumps.

First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch
pumps.  Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops.  Drives me
nuts.  Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed.

How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge
switch in a convenient and protected location.  Power it from one
of the battery connections on the back side of your main battery
switch.  I usually connect it to the house bank.  If you can find
it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable.  Run that or
two positives and a single negative to the bilge.

Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety
Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ

You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-23 Thread robert via CnC-List

Bob:
From the design you describe of mid-ship deck drains that drain into 
the bilge, it is not only during the winter but whenever these drains 
collect water, they deposit to the bilge.


Not just a winter concern.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


-- Original message--

*From: *Robert Boyer via CnC-List

*Date: *Mon, Mar 23, 2015 11:34

*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>;

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

The C&C Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck 
drains that drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains 
drained overboard.  During the winter, these two midship deck drains 
can accumulate a lot of water in the bilge.  So, not all C&C's can 
simply use manually operated bilge pumps (unless you are living aboard 
and pay close attention to the bilge level).  Also, any antifreeze 
mixture in the bilge will get diluted quite quickly.


Bob

On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:


Dwight:

I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winter 
storage...what's the point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, and 
the line, with antifreeze and then "above the floor boards" 
"leave the bottom end of the pump submerged in the same mix"?   
Mine is submerged in the antifreeze in the bilge without removing it.


Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere is 
the occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that I 
sometimes soak up with a paper towel.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-23 9 :26 AM, dwight veinot via 
CnC-List wrote:
One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to 
above the floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with 
a 50/50 mix of ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of 
the pump submerged in the same mix...I think that helps to keep the 
pump in good shape for next season


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>


On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Thoughts on bilge pumps.

First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch
pumps.  Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops.  Drives me
nuts.  Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed.

How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge
switch in a convenient and protected location.  Power it from
one of the battery connections on the back side of your main
battery switch.  I usually connect it to the house bank.  If you
can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. 
Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge.


Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety
Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ

You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame




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Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-04 Thread Harald Braun via CnC-List
Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our bilge 
pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump doesn't fit 
right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help would be 
appreciated.

Cheers
Harald

www.davenportcatering.com
519-746-0152
519-574-1058 (cell)
25 Years of Great Food Service!



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Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there that 
would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump is a 
bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? What about 
auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water witch" 
switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against this, aka 
Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-12 Thread Steven Winks
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor. 
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off. The bilge was 
full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it filled up again 
once the switch was selected to off. I had the same result with the manual 
pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the bilge and then turned 
on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so the water must have 
syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge on this boat lies only 
a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight aft, it is below the 
water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand check valves are not 
recommended. Thanks for any advice.___
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Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-13 Thread Kim Brown
Steven,
Had a similar problem with my Irwin 31 - there the bilge pump discharge was
tee'd into the sink drain.  All is good unless you had a stopper in the sink
then there is no break in the line and a back siphon could set up. Then the
pump (hopefully) kicks in and pumps it out and then it back siphons again ad
infinitum. Took some panic time to figure this out when I came back to the
boat after a night on Duval St. Admittedly my thinking was impaired
With the stopper out the siphon couldn't set up. Solution was to stop doing
dishes.  While high loops are good. you need something to break the
siphon - discharge above the waterline does it; check valve will do it but I
would look at a siphon break like they use for heads to be inserted at the
top of a high loop- less worry about impeding any discharge. And good
practice is to 'cross' hoses. If it runs along port, loop up in the stern
and discharge it to starboard and vice versa that way if you actually are
doing something like sailing one side or the other will be high. 

Kim Brown
Trust ME!!! 35-3 

 Original message 
From: Steven Winks  
Date: 08/12/2013  9:15 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon 
 
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it
filled up again once the switch was selected?to off. I had the same result
with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so
the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge
on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight
aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand
check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.



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Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-03-31 Thread Marek Dziedzic
Hi,

I think there was long discussion on that a while back.

I have to install a bilge pump switch. Any opinions on Water Witch
(http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&produ
cts_id=5 ) (and any other solid state switch)?

Thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-26 Thread Rich Knowles via CnC-List
My  bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000 gph PAR 
unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has never given me 
problems until it recently decided not to pump any water. The motor ran just 
fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being stirred around, but nothing 
was being sent overboard. It acted as though it had an airlock with the 
impeller only partially submerged.

I dismantled it and found that the small slit that acts as an air vent at the 
top of the plastic impeller housing  was completely plugged. This prevented any 
trapped air from escaping from the pump body. Once I cleaned the crud out of 
the vent slit, it performed as new. Good for another ten years, thank you.

Just a note to tuck away in case anyone has a similar “failure”.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.






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Stus-List Bilge pump installation

2014-05-27 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

I had a Rule automatic pump where the water level is determined by
impellers' resistance to turning or motor load.  Mine ran 24/7 because the
bilge crud would foul the impeller and create enough resistance to fool it
into permanently sensing water in the bilge.  Cleaning the Impeller /
flushing the bilge was a very temporary fix as more crud always seemed to
re-appear.


For the switch:
I ended up going with  Water Witch switch
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html
  It's an electronic switch but it's known as the best.  They are
warrantied for 7 years and are used by the Coast Guard.  So far it's been
flawless.

For the Pump.
I went for a manual switch version Johnson 750 GPH.   That's the largest
pump I could get into the little sump area my boat has for a pump.

I had to do away with the one way valve as it was not priming / flowing
efficiently so it burps back about 2 cups of water into the sump when It's
done pumping..   I can live with that and so far it's been very reliable.

I would like to add a diaphragm type pump with it's own through hull
connected to a high water sensor as a backup one day but that's pretty far
down the priority list..

As I am writing this my desk feels like it's heaving as I spent the long
weekend on the boat :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-23 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
The C&C Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck drains that 
drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains drained overboard.  
During the winter, these two midship deck drains can accumulate a lot of water 
in the bilge.  So, not all C&C's can simply use manually operated bilge pumps 
(unless you are living aboard and pay close attention to the bilge level).  
Also, any antifreeze mixture in the bilge will get diluted quite quickly.

Bob

On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

> Dwight:
> 
> I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winter storage...what's the 
> point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, and the line, with antifreeze and 
> then "above the floor boards" "leave the bottom end of the pump submerged 
> in the same mix"?   Mine is submerged in the antifreeze in the bilge without 
> removing it.
> 
> Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere is the 
> occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that I sometimes soak up 
> with a paper towel.   
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>  
> 
> On 2015-03-23 9:26 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
>> One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to above the 
>> floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with a 50/50 mix of 
>> ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of the pump submerged in 
>> the same mix...I think that helps to keep the pump in good shape for next 
>> season
>> 
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Thoughts on bilge pumps.
>> 
>> First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps.  Every 5 
>> minutes or so it whirs and stops.  Drives me nuts.  Can't imagine sleeping 
>> on a boat with one of those installed.
>> 
>> How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a 
>> convenient and protected location.  Power it from one of the battery 
>> connections on the back side of your main battery switch.  I usually connect 
>> it to the house bank.  If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG 
>> bilge pump cable.  Run that or two positives and a single negative to the 
>> bilge. 
>> 
>> Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini 
>> Bilge Pump switch to it.
>> 
>> http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ
>> 
>> You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
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>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> of page at:
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>> 
> 
> ___
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Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-23 Thread robert via CnC-List

Bob
Understandwater doesn't normally get into my bilge over the 
winterlucky that way.


If water were to get into Dwight's bilge over the winter, which I think 
it did, not sure, I believe Dwight installed a garboard drain to deal 
with that.  However, if the garboard drain doesn't mean a totally ice 
free bilge, I'd want my pump out of harm's way too.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-03-23 3:34 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
The C&C Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck 
drains that drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains 
drained overboard.  During the winter, these two midship deck drains 
can accumulate a lot of water in the bilge.  So, not all C&C's can 
simply use manually operated bilge pumps (unless you are living aboard 
and pay close attention to the bilge level).  Also, any antifreeze 
mixture in the bilge will get diluted quite quickly.


Bob

On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:


Dwight:

I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winter 
storage...what's the point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, and 
the line, with antifreeze and then "above the floor boards" 
"leave the bottom end of the pump submerged in the same mix"?   
Mine is submerged in the antifreeze in the bilge without removing it.


Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere is 
the occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that I 
sometimes soak up with a paper towel.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-23 9:26 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to 
above the floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with 
a 50/50 mix of ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of 
the pump submerged in the same mix...I think that helps to keep the 
pump in good shape for next season


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Thoughts on bilge pumps.

First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch
pumps. Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops. Drives me
nuts.  Can't imagine sleeping on a boat with one of those installed.

How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge
switch in a convenient and protected location.  Power it from
one of the battery connections on the back side of your main
battery switch.  I usually connect it to the house bank.  If you
can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable. 
Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge.


Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety
Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ

You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame




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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-23 Thread svpegasus38






On Pegasus, my deck drains go to a thru-hull under the galley sink. This 
year I am going to reroute them to thru-hulls just below the toe rails. I also 
use this thru-hull for my wash down pump supply. Pegasus is hull #4. Maybe it 
was converted by a PO.DougPegasus LF38 Just west of Ballard, wa
T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.


-- Original message--From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List Date: Mon, Mar 23, 
2015 11:34To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Subject:Re: Stus-List Bilge pumpThe C&C 
Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck drains that drained 
into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains drained overboard.  During the 
winter, these two midship deck drains can accumulate a lot of water in the 
bilge.  So, not all C&C's can simply use manually operated bilge pumps (unless 
you are living aboard and pay close attention to the bilge level).  Also, any 
antifreeze mixture in the bilge will get diluted quite quickly.
Bob
On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
  Dwight:

I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winterstorage...what's 
the point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, andthe line, with antifreeze 
and then "above the floor boards""leave the bottom end of the pump 
submerged in the same mix"?  Mine is submerged in the antifreeze in the 
bilge without removingit.

Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere isthe 
occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that Isometimes soak up 
with a paper towel.   

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 

On 2015-03-23 9:26 AM, dwight veinot  via CnC-List wrote:
  One additional thing that I do; remove my bilgepump and 
switch to above the floor boards during winter storageand flush the 
pump with a 50/50 mix of ethylene gycol and waterand leave the bottom 
end of the pump submerged in the samemix...I think that helps to keep 
the pump in good shape for nextseason

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
  d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis  C. via CnC-List 
  wrote:

Thoughts on bilge pumps.

First, I'm rewiring a boat thathas 
one of those auto switch pumps.  Every 5 minutes orso it whirs 
and stops.  Drives me nuts.  Can't imaginesleeping on a boat 
with one of those installed.

How I wire a bilge pump.  First,
install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a convenient and
protected location.  Power it from one of the battery
connections on the back side of your main batteryswitch.  I 
usually connect it to the house bank.  If youcan find it, Ancor 
make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge pumpcable.  Run that or two 
positives and a single negativeto the bilge. 

Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra 
   Safety Systems Mini Bilge Pump switch to it.


http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ

You will have a very nice andvery 
reliable bilge pump system.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
  
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Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing-

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2015-03-24 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Rob, you are absolutely correct...slightly worse in the winter because no one 
is likely to be around...

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Mar 23, 2015, at 8:30 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bob:
> From the design you describe of mid-ship deck drains that drain into the 
> bilge, it is not only during the winter but whenever these drains collect 
> water, they deposit to the bilge.
> 
> Not just a winter concern.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.   
>> -- Original message--
>> From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
>> Date: Mon, Mar 23, 2015 11:34
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> Subject:Re: Stus-List Bilge pump
>> The C&C Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck drains that 
>> drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains drained overboard.  
>> During the winter, these two midship deck drains can accumulate a lot of 
>> water in the bilge.  So, not all C&C's can simply use manually operated 
>> bilge pumps (unless you are living aboard and pay close attention to the 
>> bilge level).  Also, any antifreeze mixture in the bilge will get diluted 
>> quite quickly.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dwight:
>>> 
>>> I don't remove the bilge pump and switch during winter storage...what's the 
>>> point when you winterize it/flush/fill it, and the line, with antifreeze 
>>> and then "above the floor boards" "leave the bottom end of the pump 
>>> submerged in the same mix"?   Mine is submerged in the antifreeze in the 
>>> bilge without removing it.
>>> 
>>> Actually, that is not true..my bilge is mostly drythere is the 
>>> occasional backflow of antifreeze from the line but that I sometimes soak 
>>> up with a paper towel.   
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>> On 2015-03-23 9:26 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
>>>> One additional thing that I do; remove my bilge pump and switch to above 
>>>> the floor boards during winter storage and flush the pump with a 50/50 mix 
>>>> of ethylene gycol and water and leave the bottom end of the pump submerged 
>>>> in the same mix...I think that helps to keep the pump in good shape for 
>>>> next season
>>>> 
>>>> Dwight Veinot
>>>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thoughts on bilge pumps.
>>>>> 
>>>>> First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps.  
>>>>> Every 5 minutes or so it whirs and stops.  Drives me nuts.  Can't imagine 
>>>>> sleeping on a boat with one of those installed.
>>>>> 
>>>>> How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in 
>>>>> a convenient and protected location.  Power it from one of the battery 
>>>>> connections on the back side of your main battery switch.  I usually 
>>>>> connect it to the house bank.  If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 
>>>>> 14/3 AWG bilge pump cable.  Run that or two positives and a single 
>>>>> negative to the bilge. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems 
>>>>> Mini Bilge Pump switch to it.
>>>>> 
>>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ
>>>>> 
>>>>> You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>>> 
>>>>> ___
>>>>> 
>>>>> Email address:
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>

Stus-List bilge pump switch

2015-03-24 Thread Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
I've been using the Water Witch for several years -- the bilge on the 34+
is narrow with keel bolt nuts in the bottom which makes the float switch
sit too high IMHO. I can't get all the way to the bottom with the Water
Witch but can retain less water than with a float switch. I also have one
in the shower sump to control the shower pump.

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD
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Stus-List bilge pump switch

2015-03-25 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

Hi Monty,

I'm wondering how old your switch is.  Mine was installed last year, they
must have changed the software as it does suck the water down as far as the
pump can get it.  Basically the switch stays "ON" for a period of time
after water level gets below the the sensor.

Mine is installed in between the bolts and the fitment is fine.

I can send you pictures if you want to see how it came together..


-Francois Rivard
1990 34 + "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



From: Monty Schumpert 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List bilge pump switch
Message-ID:


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I've been using the Water Witch for several years -- the bilge on the 34+
is narrow with keel bolt nuts in the bottom which makes the float switch
sit too high IMHO. I can't get all the way to the bottom with the Water
Witch but can retain less water than with a float switch. I also have one
in the shower sump to control the shower pump.

Monty
Scandia
1991 C&C 34+
Annapolis, MD
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-04 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
As you know there is not much space.  I went with a Whale due to its size.

Joel

35/3
Annapolis

On Sunday, October 4, 2015, Harald Braun via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our
> bilge pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump
> doesn’t fit right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help
> would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers
> Harald
>
> *www.davenportcatering.com* 
> 519-746-0152
> 519-574-1058 (cell)
> *25 Years of Great Food Service!*
>
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-04 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe
bigger, pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the
primary.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our
> bilge pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump
> doesn’t fit right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help
> would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers
> Harald
>
> *www.davenportcatering.com* 
> 519-746-0152
> 519-574-1058 (cell)
> *25 Years of Great Food Service!*
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-04 Thread Knowles Rich via CnC-List
I suggest checking out this website for some realistic information about bilge 
pumps and their effectiveness:

http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/how-to-specify-the-right-bilge-pump-for-your-vessel.htm

There are many other sites with similar information.

It bears out my thought that the best bilge pump is a frightened man with a 
bucket.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless and pumpless.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 4, 2015, at 17:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe bigger, 
pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the primary.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our bilge 
pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump doesn’t fit 
right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help would be 
appreciated.
 
Cheers
Harald
 
www.davenportcatering.com 
519-746-0152 
519-574-1058  (cell)
25 Years of Great Food Service!
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-05 Thread Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
Hi 
My 37+ has 750gph in a shallow bilge and 1250gph in the deep bilge. I am 
replacing the backup manual pump from the cockpit that if you have a frightened 
man aboard is rated at 15 gpm (in that range, the more scared you are the 
higher the rating)! The mechanism recently failed so a brand new pump is 
waiting my return to be installed. The previous owner had installed both 
electric pumps incorrectly so I had an electrician come aboard and identify the 
appropriate circuits for me to install new Rule pumps.  Both now function both 
auto and via panel switch.
If you double the capacity the wiring and breakers need to be adjusted as well. 
 Lots of info on the Internet.
It's not rocket science and everyone has a different opinion on the proper 
setup.  
Good luck
Rick
Paikea37+
Poulsbo, WA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 5, 2015, at 6:00 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I suggest checking out this website for some realistic information about 
> bilge pumps and their effectiveness:
> 
> http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/how-to-specify-the-right-bilge-pump-for-your-vessel.htm
> 
> There are many other sites with similar information.
> 
> It bears out my thought that the best bilge pump is a frightened man with a 
> bucket.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless and pumpless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Oct 4, 2015, at 17:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe bigger, 
> pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the primary.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our 
>> bilge pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump 
>> doesn’t fit right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help 
>> would be appreciated.
>>  
>> Cheers
>> Harald
>>  
>> www.davenportcatering.com
>> 519-746-0152
>> 519-574-1058 (cell)
>> 25 Years of Great Food Service!
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump

2015-10-05 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
We have a diaphragm bilge pump on persistence.  It does not have as high a 
capacity as the other type but empties the bilge to a lower level due to the 
pickup it uses which is mounted very low.  One benefit is that the pump itself 
is not located in the bilge. On Persistence the pump is in a cupboard in the 
head.  I also used the water witch auto bilge pump switch that was mentioned on 
this list last year.  There are no moving parts and it works very well.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harald Braun 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2015 9:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Harald Braun
Subject: Stus-List bilge pump

Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C&C MK3 and want to replace our bilge 
pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump doesn't fit 
right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help would be 
appreciated.

Cheers
Harald

www.davenportcatering.com<http://www.davenportcatering.com/>
519-746-0152
519-574-1058 (cell)
25 Years of Great Food Service!



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Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-02 Thread Ted Drossos via CnC-List
When I was looking to replace my automatic bilge pump switch, the Water Witch 
was high on my list of choices until I read this note on the Water Witch 
website. 






NOTE:   



If large amounts of rain water can enter the bilge, it may dilute the normal, 
fresh or salt, water outside oursensitivity window. Corrective action can be to 
switch pump on manually to remove diluted water or toadd minerals such as salt, 
baking soda, bilge cleaners, etc... NORMAL FRESH WATER HAS AMPLEMINERAL CONTENT 
FOR PROPER OPERATION. 


Since the only water coming into my boat is rainwater from the keel stepped 
mast, the Water Witch was no longer a viable option. Some people who install 
this switch may not be aware of this shortcoming which can cause unexpected non 
performance. 


Ted Drossos
Long Island, NY
C&C 29-2 (for sale)  
C&C 110



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Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-03 Thread Ted Drossos via CnC-List
Dennis, the "Ultra Safety Systems" bilge pump switch you recommended is the one 
I ultimately selected. Very nice piece of gear. I'm using the model with the 
optional remote high water alarm. I'm wondering if the high water alarm 
function could activate another bilge pump in the event of emergency. Any 
thoughts on that?


Ted Drossos
Long Island, NY
C&C 29-2 (for sale)
C&C 110
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Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-16 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that does
NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!

-- 
Joel
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Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2019-12-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
I found one that does not have spade connectors:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.

-- 
Joel
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Stus-List Bilge pump humor

2018-07-25 Thread Stu via CnC-List
How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge pump 
could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump" is 
perfectly correct.

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this 
discussion to a bilge pump list.

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and 
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy the 
best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and what 
brands are faulty.

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected 
URL's.

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all 
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle 
the bilge pump controversy.

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge pump".

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it 
all over again.

---
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually
recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump
and switch to the transom.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some
> people here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main",
> often turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the
> bilge.
>
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main"
> electric pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500
> out there that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line
> but the pump is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be
> a choice ? What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
>
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against
> this, aka Rule themself).
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount of 
bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.

I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
last place you want a line blockage.

Bob

> On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
> recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
> switch to the transom. 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C&C 44
> Portland Or 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
You can rerun the hose to acheive this, but it depends of your layout.

Rule now make a pump with an intergrated switch and check valve. It seems they 
were against the check valve because of the possibility to get an air lock. It 
is certanly an added restricion, but a line blockage risk, i doubt it. I clean 
it every year, keep my bilge clean and the pump works often to pump water 
coming from the mast. i prefer the check valve to a cycling pump and more water 
in my bilge. It's a choice of compromise.

Bruno.


De : CnC-List  de la part de Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 15 janvier 2019 12:47
À : Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Cc : Robert Boyer
Objet : Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount of 
bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.

I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
last place you want a line blockage.

Bob

On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
switch to the transom.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there that 
would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump is a 
bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? What about 
auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water witch" 
switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against this, aka 
Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

411 Walnut Street #11447
Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
(443) 994-1802

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
I guess we are all different.  In my case, I have two long-haired cats that 
liveaboard with us.  It is impossible to keep cat hair out of my bilge—this is 
all it takes to clog up a check valve if it hangs up there.  I’m surprised that 
I haven’t had cat hair clog up my bilge pump as of yet.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 15, 2019, at 1:14 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You can rerun the hose to acheive this, but it depends of your layout.
> 
> Rule now make a pump with an intergrated switch and check valve. It seems 
> they were against the check valve because of the possibility to get an air 
> lock. It is certanly an added restricion, but a line blockage risk, i doubt 
> it. I clean it every year, keep my bilge clean and the pump works often to 
> pump water coming from the mast. i prefer the check valve to a cycling pump 
> and more water in my bilge. It's a choice of compromise.
> 
> Bruno.
> 
> De : CnC-List  de la part de Robert Boyer via 
> CnC-List 
> Envoyé : 15 janvier 2019 12:47
> À : Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> Cc : Robert Boyer
> Objet : Re: Stus-List Bilge pump
>  
> You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge connection 
> from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to the discharge 
> connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be self-draining 
> outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it minimizes the amount 
> of bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when the pump shuts off.
> 
> I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is the 
> last place you want a line blockage.
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On Jan 15, 2019, at 12:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually 
>> recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump and 
>> switch to the transom. 
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> S/V Fury 
>> C&C 44
>> Portland Or 
>> 
>> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
>> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
>> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
>> 
>> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
>> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
>> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
>> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
>> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
>> 
>> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
>> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
>> this, aka Rule themself).
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> 
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine, 33 mkII
>> new-Richmond, Qc
>> Canada
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
> 
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Depends on the check valve.  I wouldn't trust any metal check valve due to
the potential for corrosion.  Corrosion could a) lock the valve open and b)
ruin the sealing surface so it doesn't seal.

I do like, and have on Touche', a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve.  This is a
plastic flapper style valve with a rubber flap.  It's worked for almost two
decades without issue.

I also relocated the bilge discharge to the port side midships from the
starboard quarter to decrease the hose run.

If I was to reconfigure the bilge pump entirely, I would consider a Ultra
Safety Systems mini bilge pump switch and a "water puppy" style impeller
pump in a storage under a seat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



> You can route the discharge piping to a level above the discharge
> connection from the hull and do it well before the discharge line gets to
> the discharge connection from the hull.  From its high point it could be
> self-draining outward to the discharge connection.  By doing this it
> minimizes the amount of bilge water that will flow back into the bilge when
> the pump shuts off.
>
> I would not use a check valve in the bilge discharge line because it is
> the last place you want a line blockage.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I've have surprisingly good results using Atwood pumps.  They advertise as
being Johnson replaceable and have a 3 year warranty.  I don't know about
being a better foot print, higher capacity, better built, or more
reliable.  My most recent one lasted about 3 years which matched the age of
the more expensive Rule which it replaced.

I installed a rule automatic pump shortly after buying the boat.  When in
auto it would start every 2.5 minutes and "test" for water.  Unfortunately
with even a small amount of backflow this could cause it to cycle
excessively by getting false positives when it "tested" for water.  This
was annoying in the least, particularly when trying to sleep.

I'm preferential to a float type auto switch wired in parallel with the
manual switch.  My auto float switch is mounted above the pump and only
turns on when a considerable amount of water accumulates.  Under normal
conditions I manually pump the bilge down and the float just catches it
when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.

I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a perfect I world have a very
high capacity "emergency" pump and associated auto float mounted just above
the float for the lower "normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not have a
check valve.  It would have a high loop to avoid a siphon but nothing to
prevent backflow.  It would also be as short and straight of a run as
possible to the discharge.  In this way I could ensure the emergency
reliability and capacity of an emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and
rarely using it.  I would retain the normal bilge pump's ability to pump
the bilge to its lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically
and manually.

The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 gallon buckets per minute -
more flow than I can move manually but not much.  Once, I accidentally left
the transducer plugs out when launching the boat.  We discovered the
situation before water got to the floor boards but not before a
considerable amount of water had made it in.  Once the situation was
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for what seemed like the better
part of 5 minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds big... It isn't.  If I
had a shaft seal that failed, the pump almost certainly would not have kept
up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jan 15, 2019 12:16 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi,

My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some
people here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main",
often turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the
bilge.

I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main"
electric pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500
out there that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line
but the pump is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be
a choice ? What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?

My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water
witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against
this, aka Rule themself).

Thanks.


Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
new-Richmond, Qc
Canada
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Richard Bush via CnC-List
 Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and the 
water puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the advantages (or 
disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?  
How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
 Thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, MIle 596;
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 


Depends on the check valve.  I wouldn't trust any metal check valve due to the 
potential for corrosion.  Corrosion could a) lock the valve open and b) ruin 
the sealing surface so it doesn't seal.
I do like, and have on Touche', a Bosworth Sea-Lect check valve.  This is a 
plastic flapper style valve with a rubber flap.  It's worked for almost two 
decades without issue.
I also relocated the bilge discharge to the port side midships from the 
starboard quarter to decrease the hose run.
If I was to reconfigure the bilge pump entirely, I would consider a Ultra 
Safety Systems mini bilge pump switch and a "water puppy" style impeller pump 
in a storage under a seat.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
You would NOT have a backflow issue since impeller pumps are positive
displacement.  One big advantage of the impeller system is the suction hose
could be routed to the very lowest point in the bilge sump.  Impeller pumps
are self priming down a few feet.  While the float switch would shut off
before complete emptying, you could empty the sump on "manual".

With a typical centrifugal pump, you can only lower the water level to the
inlet of the pump.  Don't know about your boat, but on Touche', that leaves
a bunch of water in the sump.  The only way I can empty it is with the
manual pump.

Disadvantage might be trash damaging the impeller.  However, impeller pumps
are widely used for bilge pumps on many, many boats.  There was one on
Touche' when I bought it.  I stupidly replaced it with a centrifugal pump.
:(  Should have left it.

Dennis

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 2:40 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and the 
> water
> puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the advantages (or
> disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?
> How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
> Thanks
>
> Richard
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-15 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
The only concern with a position displacement vane pump is that they can
burn up if run without sufficient water - if for example you left it on or
the float stuck.  They are also often relatively high current and low
flow.  The rubber impellers are wear items so planning a replacement
strategy is important.

There are other positive displacement pumps that might achieve the same dry
bilge in a more cost effective way.  Diaphragm pumps come to mind.  Rubber
diaphragms eventually wear out too but some have the advantage of being
able to pass "trash".  These too are relatively low flow and would best be
paired with a high volume emergency pump.

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product-application.aspx?Category_ID=1&FriendlyID=Bilge


Josh



On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  You would NOT have a backflow issue since impeller pumps are positive
> displacement.  One big advantage of the impeller system is the suction hose
> could be routed to the very lowest point in the bilge sump.  Impeller pumps
> are self priming down a few feet.  While the float switch would shut off
> before complete emptying, you could empty the sump on "manual".
>
> With a typical centrifugal pump, you can only lower the water level to the
> inlet of the pump.  Don't know about your boat, but on Touche', that leaves
> a bunch of water in the sump.  The only way I can empty it is with the
> manual pump.
>
> Disadvantage might be trash damaging the impeller.  However, impeller
> pumps are widely used for bilge pumps on many, many boats.  There was one
> on Touche' when I bought it.  I stupidly replaced it with a centrifugal
> pump.  :(  Should have left it.
>
> Dennis
>
> On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 2:40 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis, I like your suggestion of the Ultra Safety systems switch and
>> the water puppy pump; that's about $300.00 (+/-); what would the
>> advantages (or disadvantages) be over the traditional systems...?
>> How would the hose be routed?  Would you still have the backflow problem?
>> Thanks
>>
>> Richard
>>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-16 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
I have the same setup as Josh and also have a check valve.  The reason I added 
the check valve is that I have twice had water being driven into the boat 
through the bilge pump outlet and through the bilge pump into the bilge on the 
first motor down the river in the spring after launch.  I don’t understand the 
phenomenon as it only ever happened on that first motor trip after launch and 
not every time.  The bilge pump exits on the underside of the transom so is 
underwater when motoring fast (in fresh water as well).  The pressure seemed to 
drive water through the pump into the bilge and would stop when we slowed down. 
 It would eventually stop coming in altogether, but I never figured out why.  
There is a loop to break siphon, but that would not help if the water pressure 
from motion drives water up through the loop.  So unless I figure this out, I 
will stick with the check valve.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 15, 2019, at 3:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've have surprisingly good results using Atwood pumps.  They advertise as 
> being Johnson replaceable and have a 3 year warranty.  I don't know about 
> being a better foot print, higher capacity, better built, or more reliable.  
> My most recent one lasted about 3 years which matched the age of the more 
> expensive Rule which it replaced.
> 
> I installed a rule automatic pump shortly after buying the boat.  When in 
> auto it would start every 2.5 minutes and "test" for water.  Unfortunately 
> with even a small amount of backflow this could cause it to cycle excessively 
> by getting false positives when it "tested" for water.  This was annoying in 
> the least, particularly when trying to sleep.
> 
> I'm preferential to a float type auto switch wired in parallel with the 
> manual switch.  My auto float switch is mounted above the pump and only turns 
> on when a considerable amount of water accumulates.  Under normal conditions 
> I manually pump the bilge down and the float just catches it when I've 
> abandoned the boat for weeks on end.
> 
> I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a perfect I world have a very 
> high capacity "emergency" pump and associated auto float mounted just above 
> the float for the lower "normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not have a 
> check valve.  It would have a high loop to avoid a siphon but nothing to 
> prevent backflow.  It would also be as short and straight of a run as 
> possible to the discharge.  In this way I could ensure the emergency 
> reliability and capacity of an emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
> rarely using it.  I would retain the normal bilge pump's ability to pump the 
> bilge to its lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and 
> manually.
> 
> The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 gallon buckets per minute - 
> more flow than I can move manually but not much.  Once, I accidentally left 
> the transducer plugs out when launching the boat.  We discovered the 
> situation before water got to the floor boards but not before a considerable 
> amount of water had made it in.  Once the situation was corrected the bilge 
> pump continued to run for what seemed like the better part of 5 minutes.  The 
> point being, 1200gph sounds big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
> failed, the pump almost certainly would not have kept up and that is the 
> least catastrophic emergency I can think of.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 15, 2019 12:16 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one 

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Josh,

Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and 
estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about 
3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.


The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less 
after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.


If anyone is really worried about emergency pump 
I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of 
course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)


Cheers, Russ



At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:



I'm preferential to a float type auto switch 
wired in parallel with the manual switch.  My 
auto float switch is mounted above the pump and 
only turns on when a considerable amount of 
water accumulates.  Under normal conditions I 
manually pump the bilge down and the float just 
catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.


I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a 
perfect I world have a very high capacity 
"emergency" pump and associated auto float 
mounted just above the float for the lower 
"normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not 
have a check valve.  It would have a high loop 
to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent 
backflow.  It would also be as short and 
straight of a run as possible to the 
discharge.  In this way I could ensure the 
emergency reliability and capacity of an 
emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
rarely using it.  I would retain the normal 
bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its 
lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and manually.


The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 
gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can 
move manually but not much.  Once, I 
accidentally left the transducer plugs out when 
launching the boat.  We discovered the 
situation before water got to the floor boards 
but not before a considerable amount of water 
had made it in.  Once the situation was 
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for 
what seemed like the better part of 5 
minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds 
big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
failed, the pump almost certainly would not have 
kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ




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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-19 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
That's right Russ!  In leakage would be at least 5 times the flow rate of a
typical 1200 gph pump on a good day.  IMO, Using 4000 and 5000 gph pumps
should be the norm and excepted minimum for emergency dewatering pumps.

It also goes to show that plugging the hole and plugging it well is a
bigger priority than dewatering.

Rule 56D 4000 GPH Marine Bilge Pump, Non-Automatic, 12 Volt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8B7LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1Q2qCbPE6BPMB

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 1:06 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and
> estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about
> 3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.
>
> The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less
> after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.
>
> If anyone is really worried about emergency pump
> I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of
> course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)
>
>  Cheers, Russ
>
>
>
> At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >I'm preferential to a float type auto switch
> >wired in parallel with the manual switch.  My
> >auto float switch is mounted above the pump and
> >only turns on when a considerable amount of
> >water accumulates.  Under normal conditions I
> >manually pump the bilge down and the float just
> >catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.
> >
> >I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a
> >perfect I world have a very high capacity
> >"emergency" pump and associated auto float
> >mounted just above the float for the lower
> >"normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not
> >have a check valve.  It would have a high loop
> >to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent
> >backflow.  It would also be as short and
> >straight of a run as possible to the
> >discharge.  In this way I could ensure the
> >emergency reliability and capacity of an
> >emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and
> >rarely using it.  I would retain the normal
> >bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its
> >lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and manually.
> >
> >The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5
> >gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can
> >move manually but not much.  Once, I
> >accidentally left the transducer plugs out when
> >launching the boat.  We discovered the
> >situation before water got to the floor boards
> >but not before a considerable amount of water
> >had made it in.  Once the situation was
> >corrected the bilge pump continued to run for
> >what seemed like the better part of 5
> >minutes.  The point being, 1200gph sounds
> >big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that
> >failed, the pump almost certainly would not have
> >kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.
> >
> >Josh MuckleyÂ
> >S/V Sea HawkÂ
> >1989 C&C 37+
> >Solomons, MDÂ
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
capacity?

I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
3/4" to 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge
hoses runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs
through the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require
enlarging some of the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole)
probably, and of course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal
more work than just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float
switch + alarm.

>From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000.
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the
stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships.

With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range
recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity
may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also
heard it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge
pumps - a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a
38' one will.

I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from
sinking at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less
concerned with emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far
offshore and I have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty,
foam, wood bungs, carrots, etc).

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
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Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread Matt Wolford via CnC-List
Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Bilge pump hose

2020-06-24 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
All the talk about the bilge pumps and switches brought up in mind (the long 
overdue) need to replace the bilge pump hose.

Is there a “recommended” hose? I don’t want to do the replacement and go 
through the pain running that hose through various tight spots and turns only 
to find out that the hose would disintegrate in a few years.

Thank you for your suggestions.

Marek
19945 C270 Legato.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Stus-List Bilge pump outflow

2021-06-03 Thread Dean McNeill via CnC-List
On my C&C 34, I have a non-automatic bilge pump in the well next to the mast 
holder. It’s old and back flows about gallon (maybe an exaggeration!) of water 
back into the bilge once it shuts off. I’m replacing it and expect I can just 
attach the new bilge pump to the existing outflow piping. My question is, if I 
wanted to install a second one (automatic one), slightly higher in same area, 
Do I need an entirely new outflow and thru-hull or can I join it with a ‘Y’ 
connector to the same pipe as the first bilge pump… so they would each use same 
pipe/thru-hull?

Dean
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

2023-06-26 Thread Brian Morrison via CnC-List
Good Morning,

The Jabsco diaphragm bilge pump has lost suction and needs to be replaced on my 
1979 C&C34. The original model has been discontinued (37202-). The closest 
match is the 37202-2012. The original pumps at 4.5gpm. This one is only 3gpm. 
Is this the best option or is there another make available?

Thanks

Brian C. Morrison
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stu


Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

2023-06-27 Thread Josh via CnC-List
https://www.marineengine.com/boat-accessories/plumbing/gulper-320-shower-bilge-waste-pump-whale-water-systems.php?msclkid=c321d1f6c67411f652dcb56da39db79b

The actual pump doesn't need to be in the bilge, just the end of the suction 
hose.  I have mine mounted on wood pads I epoxied to the hull under the floor 
boards.  5 GPM.  It will run dry and dry prime.  It will also pass trash like 
paper pulp and bilge mung.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-12 Thread Edd Schillay
Steven,

On my 37+, the discharge points are a few inches above the waterline, but the 
hoses leading to them loop up well above the waterline to make sure no water 
can come back in when the back of the boat is heavy. 

Check your hoses and make sure they go upwards. 

Also, I have, in the past, used check valve on bilge pumps without any 
problems. 

Good luck. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Aug 12, 2013, at 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:

Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor. 
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off. The bilge was 
full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it filled up again 
once the switch was selected to off. I had the same result with the manual 
pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the bilge and then turned 
on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so the water must have 
syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge on this boat lies only 
a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight aft, it is below the 
water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand check valves are not 
recommended. Thanks for any advice.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-12 Thread coltrek
Maybe you could pull the hose up to the deck where it comes through the hull 
and make a loop. This might break the siphon. My discharges are just below 
shear.


Wild Bill
C&C 39

 Original message 
From: Steven Winks  
Date: 08/12/2013  9:15 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon 
 
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor. 
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off. The bilge was 
full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it filled up again 
once the switch was selected to off. I had the same result with the manual 
pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the bilge and then turned 
on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so the water must have 
syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge on this boat lies only 
a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight aft, it is below the 
water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand check valves are not 
recommended. Thanks for any advice.___
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-12 Thread Josh Muckley
I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the water
that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
time.

I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
harder to clog.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:

> **
> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it
> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same result
> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so
> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but with
> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this? I
> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-12 Thread Colin Kilgour
The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.

If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
just adjust your pump size accordingly.

Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)

Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)

Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
(Lower voltage = less flow)

All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
pumping a lot less than that Again, not a huge problem - as long
as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.

Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
mechanical and electrical book.

Cheers
Colin

Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
 Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.



On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the water
> that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
> once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
> time.
>
> I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
> harder to clog.
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:
>
>> **
>> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
>> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
>> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
>> it
>> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
>> result
>> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
>> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
>> so
>> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
>> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
>> with
>> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
>> I
>> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-13 Thread Della Barba, Joe


I had a bilge pump teed into the sink drain. The T was actually below water 
level and it loopep up just above water level. Well...after a new engine 
install and some new wires and hoses, it got pushed to just BELOW water level. 
We woke up in Rock Hall about knee deep in water! After pumping the boat out, 
we were like WTF??? where did this come from?? We listend very carefully and I 
heard water running back into the bilge through the pump. That pump now 
dishcharges out of a hull fitting up at rail level ;)
Note the T setup caused no issues for at least a decade or so prior to this. 


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 7:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

Steven,
Had a similar problem with my Irwin 31 - there the bilge pump discharge was 
tee'd into the sink drain.  All is good unless you had a stopper in the sink 
then there is no break in the line and a back siphon could set up. Then the 
pump (hopefully) kicks in and pumps it out and then it back siphons again ad 
infinitum. Took some panic time to figure this out when I came back to the boat 
after a night on Duval St. Admittedly my thinking was impaired
With the stopper out the siphon couldn't set up. Solution was to stop doing 
dishes.  While high loops are good. you need something to break the siphon 
- discharge above the waterline does it; check valve will do it but I would 
look at a siphon break like they use for heads to be inserted at the top of a 
high loop- less worry about impeding any discharge. And good practice is to 
'cross' hoses. If it runs along port, loop up in the stern and discharge it to 
starboard and vice versa that way if you actually are doing something like 
sailing one side or the other will be high. 

Kim Brown
Trust ME!!! 35-3 

 Original message 
From: Steven Winks 
Date: 08/12/2013  9:15 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon 
 
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor. 
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it 
filled up again once the switch was selected?to off. I had the same result with 
the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the bilge and 
then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry, so the water must 
have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The discharge on this boat lies 
only a few inches above the waterline, but with any weight aft, it is below the 
water. Has anyone else experienced this? I understand check valves are not 
recommended. Thanks for any advice.



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-13 Thread Ken Heaton
Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach)
in the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
This loop is in the lazarette, above the thruhull in the stern.

Our manual pump does not have a vented loop but does have a one way valve
in the strum box.  The boat came with a one way valve in the strainer but
when it started leaking we replaced it with a Whale #SB5865 Top Entry
Strainer, this type:
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10036|10159&product=17181806&code=766478586506

For the manual bilge pump to back siphon it would mean both the strainer
valve and both the one way valves in the pump would have to be leaking so
perhaps it is time to service the manual pump or at least clean the hair,
etc. out of the valves?

Ken H.


On 13 August 2013 00:03, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

> The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.
>
> If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
> just adjust your pump size accordingly.
>
> Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)
>
> Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
> loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)
>
> Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
> (Lower voltage = less flow)
>
> All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
> pumping a lot less than that Again, not a huge problem - as long
> as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.
>
> Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
> mechanical and electrical book.
>
> Cheers
> Colin
>
> Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
> I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
> and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
>  Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.
>
>
>
> On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> > I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the
> water
> > that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the
> sump
> > once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
> > time.
> >
> > I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
> > harder to clog.
> >
> > Josh
> >
> > --
> > When privacy matters.
> > http://www.secure-my-email.com
> > On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:
> >
> >> **
> >> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
> >> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and
> off.
> >> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
> >> it
> >> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
> >> result
> >> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
> >> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
> >> so
> >> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
> >> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
> >> with
> >> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
> >> I
> >> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
> >>
> >> ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >>
> >>
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-13 Thread Steve Thomas
Check valves can and do stick shut sometimes.
Happened on a boat I was on once.
The owner was all set to install the backup pump, but poking the check valve 
solved the problem.
No idea what made it stick that one time.
Some somewhat adhesive "piece of crap" most likely I suppose.
In any case I would want it to be easily accessible if installed.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ken Heaton
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon


Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach) in 
the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
  This loop is in the lazarette, above the
thruhull in the stern.


Our manual pump does not have a vented loop but does have a one way valve in 
the strum box.  The boat came with a one way valve in
the strainer but when it started leaking we replaced it with a Whale #SB5865 
Top Entry Strainer, this type:
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10036|10159&product=17181806&code=766478586506


For the manual bilge pump to back siphon it would mean both the strainer valve 
and both the one way valves in the pump would have
to be leaking so perhaps it is time to service the manual pump or at least 
clean the hair, etc. out of the valves?


Ken H.



On 13 August 2013 00:03, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

  The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.

  If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
  just adjust your pump size accordingly.

  Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)

  Same goes for how high you're pushing that column. (ie: the higher the
  loop, the higher the column - And btw, you definitely DO want a loop)

  Same goes for the gauge of wire and length of wiring run to your pump.
  (Lower voltage = less flow)

  All of these impact flow rate. So your 2000GPH pump is actually
  pumping a lot less than that Again, not a huge problem - as long
  as you factor all these things into your de-watering strategy.

  Nigel Calder does a really good analysis of these factors in his
  mechanical and electrical book.

  Cheers
  Colin

  Btw - on Bojangles, the bilge pumps discharge well below waterline.
  I'm not super happy about that, but that's the way the boat was made
  and it'd be a major plumbing project to make it work a different way.
   Touch wood - this has always worked well for me.




  On 8/12/13, Josh Muckley  wrote:
  > I must be messing up cause I have a check valve.  Without it, all the water
  > that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
  > once the pump turns off.  With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
  > time.
  >
  > I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they would he
  > harder to clog.
  >
  > Josh
  >
  > --
  > When privacy matters.
  > http://www.secure-my-email.com
  > On Aug 12, 2013 9:15 PM, "Steven Winks"  wrote:
  >

  >> **

  >> Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at
  >> anchor. I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off.
  >> The bilge was full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and
  >> it
  >> filled up again once the switch was selected to off. I had the same
  >> result
  >> with the manual pump. When I removed the manual bilge pump hose from the
  >> bilge and then turned on the electric pump again, the bilge stayed dry,
  >> so
  >> the water must have syphoned in via the manual pump discharge. The
  >> discharge on this boat lies only a few inches above the waterline, but
  >> with
  >> any weight aft, it is below the water. Has anyone else experienced this?
  >> I
  >> understand check valves are not recommended. Thanks for any advice.
  >>
  >> ___
  >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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  --
  Sent from my mobile device


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump siphon

2013-08-13 Thread Steven Winks
Thanks to everyone with info on my bilge pump siphon problem. I'll service 
the pump and install a vented loop. That should solve the problem.


Steve 



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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-01 Thread Joel Aronson
Marek,
I have a Johnson Ultima solid state switch.  I did not have room for a
float switch.  I don't know anything about the Water Witch.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Mar 31, 2013, at 10:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

 bilge pump switch

Hi,

I think there was long discussion on that a while back…

I have to install a bilge pump switch. Any opinions on Water Witch (***
http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5
*)
(and
any other solid state switch)?

Thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)

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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-01 Thread Bill Coleman
I think Mine is a Water Witch, altho I wouldn't bet the farm without looking
through old receipts. I like it a lot.  Never had a mechanical one, so I
cannot comment on the differences.  What is says is true, it won't pump oil,
so keep an absorbent pad under your engine in case something bad happens. It
has always worked flawlessly. 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 10:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List bilge pump switch

 

Hi,

I think there was long discussion on that a while back.

I have to install a bilge pump switch. Any opinions on Water Witch (
<http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&produ
cts_id=5>
http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&produc
ts_id=5 ) (and any other solid state switch)?

Thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)

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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-01 Thread Jake Brodersen
Marek,

 

I have the standard Rule mercury-type switch.  It is reliable, but does
require occasional cleaning.  Bilge gunk builds up and will sometimes
prevent it from turning on.  It might happen once a season.  Guess I should
clean the bilge more often.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

 

On Mar 31, 2013, at 10:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

Hi,

I think there was long discussion on that a while back.

I have to install a bilge pump switch. Any opinions on Water Witch (

http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&produc
ts_id=5 ) (and any other solid state switch)?

Thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)

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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-02 Thread Marek Dziedzic
Thanks to all for your comments. I have ordered a Water Witch switch from 
Defender last night. Interestingly, I could not source it (for any reasonable 
price) anywhere in Canada. My local Chandlery could not even source it at all 
(they could not get any solid state switches, period). Apparently, solid state 
bilge pump switches are exclusively available in the US (:- ).

Defender was better, even with the ridiculous shipping charges.

thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-02 Thread Bill Coleman
FWIW, the way I mounted mine was simply strapping it onto a keel bolt with
tie-wraps. If yours don't stick up like mine do (3") you could just get a
nut and bolt and screw a few threads onto the top of what you have and screw
the bolt into the remaining few threads of the nut and snug it.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 ERIE 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

 

Thanks to all for your comments. I have ordered a Water Witch switch from
Defender last night. Interestingly, I could not source it (for any
reasonable price) anywhere in Canada. My local Chandlery could not even
source it at all (they could not get any solid state switches, period).
Apparently, solid state bilge pump switches are exclusively available in the
US (:- ).

 

Defender was better, even with the ridiculous shipping charges.

 

thanks

 

Marek (in Ottawa)

 

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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-02 Thread Joel Aronson
I inherited a piece of PVC pipe.  the PO drilled a couple holes, used zip
ties and lowered into the bilge.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 3:39 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

>  FWIW, the way I mounted mine was simply strapping it onto a keel bolt
> with tie-wraps. If yours don’t stick up like mine do (3”) you could just
> get a nut and bolt and screw a few threads onto the top of what you have
> and screw the bolt into the remaining few threads of the nut and snug it.*
> ***
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 ERIE 
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek
> Dziedzic
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 02, 2013 12:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks to all for your comments. I have ordered a Water Witch switch from
> Defender last night. Interestingly, I could not source it (for any
> reasonable price) anywhere in Canada. My local Chandlery could not even
> source it at all (they could not get any solid state switches, period).
> Apparently, solid state bilge pump switches are exclusively available in
> the US (:- ).
>
>  
>
> Defender was better, even with the ridiculous shipping charges.
>
>  
>
> thanks
>
>  
>
> Marek (in Ottawa)
>
>  
>
> ___
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-02 Thread ahycrace
Joel
I have the water witch, it works ok no problems 4 years
Gary Kolc

 Joel Aronson  wrote: 
> Marek,
> I have a Johnson Ultima solid state switch.  I did not have room for a
> float switch.  I don't know anything about the Water Witch.
> 
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Mar 31, 2013, at 10:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
>  bilge pump switch
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I think there was long discussion on that a while back…
> 
> I have to install a bilge pump switch. Any opinions on Water Witch (***
> http://waterwitchinc.com/online_cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5
> *)
> (and
> any other solid state switch)?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Marek (in Ottawa)
> 
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Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch

2013-04-02 Thread sam . c . salter
I've got a Whale bilge pump with a solid state switch built in. Bought it in Canada - Paynes Marine out of Vancouver  sam :-) 403-617-6280From: Marek DziedzicSent: Tuesday, April 2, 2013 10:58 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List bilge pump switch




Thanks to all for your comments. I have ordered a Water 
Witch switch from Defender last night. Interestingly, I could not source it (for 
any reasonable price) anywhere in Canada. My local Chandlery could not even 
source it at all (they could not get any solid state switches, period). 
Apparently, solid state bilge pump switches are exclusively available in the US 
(:- ).
 
Defender was better, even with the ridiculous shipping 
charges.
 
thanks
 
Marek (in Ottawa)
 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-02 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I like the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jan 2, 2016 at 10:15 PM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I was looking to replace my automatic bilge pump switch, the Water
> Witch was high on my list of choices until I read this note on the Water
> Witch website.
>
> NOTE:[image: page2image20160] [image: page2image20328] [image:
> page2image20496] [image: page2image20664]
> If large amounts of rain water can enter the bilge, it may dilute the
> normal, fresh or salt, water outside our sensitivity window. Corrective
> action can be to switch pump on manually to remove diluted water or to add
> minerals such as salt, baking soda, bilge cleaners, etc... NORMAL FRESH
> WATER HAS AMPLE MINERAL CONTENT FOR PROPER OPERATION.
>
> Since the only water coming into my boat is rainwater from the keel
> stepped mast, the Water Witch was no longer a viable option. Some people
> who install this switch may not be aware of this shortcoming which can
> cause unexpected non performance.
>
> Ted Drossos
> Long Island, NY
> C&C 29-2 (for sale)
> C&C 110
>
> ___
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-03 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List


I have the water witch, & my primary water is from the mast also and I have 
never had a problem -


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Ted Drossos via CnC-List  
Date: 01/02/2016  11:15 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ted Drossos  
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump switch 

When I was looking to replace my automatic bilge pump switch, the Water Witch 
was high on my list of choices until I read this note on the Water Witch 
website. 















NOTE:










If large amounts of rain water can enter the bilge, it may dilute the normal, 
fresh or salt, water outside our
sensitivity window. Corrective action can be to switch pump on manually to 
remove diluted water or to
add minerals such as salt, baking soda, bilge cleaners, etc... NORMAL FRESH 
WATER HAS AMPLE
MINERAL CONTENT FOR PROPER OPERATION. 





Since the only water coming into my boat is rainwater from the keel stepped 
mast, the Water Witch was no longer a viable option. Some people who install 
this switch may not be aware of this shortcoming which can cause unexpected non 
performance. 





Ted Drossos

Long Island, NY

C&C 29-2 (for sale)  

C&C 110







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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-03 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Interesting idea but I'd be concerned about the current draw.  The alarm
circuit may not be designed to handle the amperage of a pump.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, the "Ultra Safety Systems" bilge pump switch you recommended is
> the one I ultimately selected. Very nice piece of gear. I'm using the model
> with the optional remote high water alarm. I'm wondering if the high water
> alarm function could activate another bilge pump in the event of emergency.
> Any thoughts on that?
>
> Ted Drossos
> Long Island, NY
> C&C 29-2 (for sale)
> C&C 110
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2016-01-03 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
If not, you can always add a relay.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: January 3, 2016 12:06
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

Interesting idea but I'd be concerned about the current draw.  The alarm 
circuit may not be designed to handle the amperage of a pump.
Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Dennis, the "Ultra Safety Systems" bilge pump switch you recommended is the one 
I ultimately selected. Very nice piece of gear. I'm using the model with the 
optional remote high water alarm. I'm wondering if the high water alarm 
function could activate another bilge pump in the event of emergency. Any 
thoughts on that? 

Ted Drossos
Long Island, NY
C&C 29-2 (for sale)
C&C 110

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-16 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
That is why I use heat shrink crimp connectors, coat the wire with tef gel 
before crimping, shrink the tubing and follow with coating the connector with 
liquid electrical tape.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/16/19  11:14 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge pump switches While we are talking about bilge pump controls, 
is there a switch that does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've 
zip-tied so they are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a 
friction fitting.If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the 
bilge pump!-- Joel 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-16 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Joel,

Not that I know of.  Touche's bilge switch is high up in a bulkhead in a
secure place where nothing will fall on or contact the back of the switch
or the wires.  The push on connectors are Ancor and fit tightly.  The wires
are secured in a manner that there is and will be no strain on the
connectors.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:15 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>
> --
> Joel
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-16 Thread Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but 
I suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few 
things that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on 
their own. The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and 
squeeze the fitting together on the switch.


If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find 
switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:


https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch&qid=1576513553&sr=8-9


Joe

Coquina


On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that 
does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they 
are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction 
fitting.

If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!

--
Joel


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-16 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
fuse a few inches from the terminal. Boat also has Whale gusher 10 manual
bilge pump which is seldom used other than to test it out.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:58 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but I
> suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few things
> that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on their own.
> The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and squeeze the
> fitting together on the switch.
>
> If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find
> switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch&qid=1576513553&sr=8-9
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

2019-12-17 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Joe,

I like the idea of a 3 way toggle switch and ring terminals!  Hopefully it
will fit in the hole where the current switch is.

Joel

On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:51 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
> cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
> off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
> connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
> fuse a few inches from the terminal. Boat also has Whale gusher 10 manual
> bilge pump which is seldom used other than to test it out.
> On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 2:58 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but I
>> suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few things
>> that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on their own.
>> The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and squeeze the
>> fitting together on the switch.
>>
>> If you don't care about having official marine switches, you can find
>> switches like this that could take tiny screws and nuts:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Support-Univeral-Rocker-Toggle-Waterproof/dp/B012MYR518/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=SPDT+switch&qid=1576513553&sr=8-9
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>> On 12/16/2019 11:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that
>> does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've zip-tied so they are not
>> likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a friction fitting.
>> If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2019-12-19 Thread Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Until you take the back cover off you don't know what kind of connectors 
are back there out of sight ;)


Joe

Coquina

On 12/19/2019 11:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

I found one that does not have spade connectors:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 



Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.

--
Joel


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2019-12-19 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Joe,

I'm sure it is the highest quality Chinesieum!

Joel

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 12:03 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Until you take the back cover off you don't know what kind of connectors
> are back there out of sight ;)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> On 12/19/2019 11:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I found one that does not have spade connectors:
>
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9WC6V1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
>
> Even the Blue Seas toggle switches have spades.
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switch

2019-12-19 Thread John Conklin via CnC-List
That’s the one I have.  No issues at all  to date 

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon 

> On Dec 19, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 

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Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

2020-03-27 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Anybody got one of these?

https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel


Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.

Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:

https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/

However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.

Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
rolls.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

2018-07-25 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Stu — so does this mean the website is still down, and you’re frustrated?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 25, 2018, at 10:50 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> How many email listers does it take...
> To change a bilge pump
>  
> 1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.
>  
> 14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge 
> pump could have been changed differently...
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

2018-07-25 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Geeze Stu, are we really that bad?!   ;^)

 

Just remember, probably 90 % of are old fuddy-Duds! 

What was this discussion about again . . . ?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:51 AM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

 

How many email listers does it take...

To change a bilge pump

 

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

 

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge
pump could have been changed differently.

 

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

 

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

 

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

 

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

 

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump"
is perfectly correct.

 

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this
discussion to a bilge pump list.

 

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

 

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy
the best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique
and what brands are faulty.

 

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

 

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

 

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

 

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected
URL's.

 

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

 

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot
handle the bilge pump controversy.

 

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

 

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge
pump".

 

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

 

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start
it all over again.  

 


 
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam
paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free.
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paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

2018-07-25 Thread Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Somebody has a sense of humor and WAY too much time on their hands

Neil 1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: 30471605600n behalf of
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 5:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

Geeze Stu, are we really that bad?!   ;^)

Just remember, probably 90 % of are old fuddy-Duds!
What was this discussion about again . . . ?

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 11:51 AM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump

1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge pump 
could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.

6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...

Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.

2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "pump".

15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump" is 
perfectly correct.

19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this 
discussion to a bilge pump list.

11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and 
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.

36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy the 
best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and what 
brands are faulty.

5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.

15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.

7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.

4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected 
URL's.

13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all 
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".

5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle 
the bilge pump controversy.

4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"

13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge pump".

1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.

1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it 
all over again.

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

2018-07-25 Thread Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
I like it. Hey, wait a minute I'm in that list somewhere. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Stu via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/25/18  08:50  (GMT-08:00) To: C&C Email List 
 Cc: Stu  Subject: Stus-List 
Bilge pump humor 



How many email listers does it take...
To change a bilge pump
 
1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been
changed.
 
14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge
pump could have been changed differently.
 
7 to caution about the dangers of changing bilge pump.
 
6 to argue over whether it's "bilge-pump" or "bilge pump" ...
 
Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid.
 
2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is
"pump".
 
15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "bilge pump"
is perfectly correct.
 
19 to post that this list is not about bilge pump and to please take this
discussion to a bilge pump list.
 
11 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use bilge pump and
therefore the posts are relevant to this list.
 
36 to debate which method of changing bilge pump is superior, where to buy
the best bilge pump, what brand of bilge pump work best for this technique and
what brands are faulty.
 
5 People to post pics of their own bilge pump.
 
15 People to post "I can't see S$%^!" and their own bilge pump.
 
7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different bilge pump.
 
4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the
corrected URL's.
 
13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all
headers and signatures, and add "Me too".
 
5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot
handle the bilge pump controversy.
 
4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?"
 
13 to say "do a search on bilge pump before posting questions about bilge
pump".
 
1 moderator threatening lock the bilge pump thread.
 
1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start
it all over again.  




Virus-free. www.avg.com


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Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

2017-07-31 Thread Chris Hobson via CnC-List

Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
helpful advice really appreciate it. I’m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
electrical and figured I’d post a few photos because maybe something is 
glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 

I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
common it is to have two main battery switches like this.

Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
the other night from too much vino, it’s still dead and hasn’t recharged even 
though I’m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to my 
True-charge battery charger.

Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
test, or try to find if there’s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it’s a badly hardwired autopilot 
and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don’t know enough about bad wiring. 
So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing

Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.

Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
negative terminals.

Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.

Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.

Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
Cabin for battery switch #1.

The way I see it I have three options:

A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he’s booked till 
September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it out
C: Keep digging

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
C&C 30-1 #615
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Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

2017-12-29 Thread Steven A. Demore via CnC-List
Question for the C&C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge
pump connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting
the head back together and will need that vent, but I can't figure out where
the bilge pump would connected to a thruhull.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Carrots  Funny!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having 
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity?  
> 
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
> gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 
> 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses 
> runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through 
> the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of 
> the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of 
> course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than 
> just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 
> 
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 
> 
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity 
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard 
> it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - 
> a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one 
> will.
> 
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking 
> at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
> emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I 
> have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood 
> bungs, carrots, etc). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Yeah, either carrots or potatoes. :)  This is an idea from Yachting
Monthly's Crash Test Boat videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5PDuXvqL7c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUg3TUmnQBs

On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:10 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:

> Carrots  Funny!
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Patrick:

I don't think anything will keep the boat afloat if a 1-1/2" thru hull 
disintegrated.  

I do understand your concern but given the difficulty have you considered 
adding a third pump slightly higher as an emergency pump?  As you will be 
running new plumbing anywhere that is convenient you can make it as big as you 
like.

John

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having 
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity?  
> 
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
> gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 
> 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses 
> runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through 
> the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of 
> the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of 
> course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than 
> just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 
> 
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 
> 
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity 
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard 
> it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - 
> a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one 
> will.
> 
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking 
> at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
> emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I 
> have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood 
> bungs, carrots, etc). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 14, 2016 3:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
> capacity?
>
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
> 2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
> 3/4" to 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge
> hoses runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs
> through the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require
> enlarging some of the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole)
> probably, and of course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal
> more work than just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float
> switch + alarm.
>
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000.
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships.
>
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also
> heard it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge
> pumps - a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a
> 38' one will.
>
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from
> sinking at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less
> concerned with emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far
> offshore and I have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty,
> foam, wood bungs, carrots, etc).
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
A Tru-Plug (orange pliable foamy cone shaped bung) and an Edson 18gpm manual 
pump on a board emergency pump are standard for most folks tackling offshore 
passagemaking.  If you have the room for the bigger Edson pump (30Gpm), that’s 
even better.  Keep in mind that once the water level gets above your batteries, 
having any high capacity Electric Bilge Pump won’t mean a thing.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2016 4:21 PM
To: C&C List cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

 

You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no matter 
what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.  Its gonna 
sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 14, 2016 3:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having trouble 
deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity?  

 

I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 1 
1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses runs 
through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through the 
hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of the 
hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of course 
hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than just 
replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 

 

>From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
>http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 

 

With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity may 
be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard it 
doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - a 
20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one will.

 

I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking at 
dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I have 
a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood bungs, 
carrots, etc). 

 

-Patrick

1984 C&C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

 


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greatly appreciated!

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greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List

http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote: 
A Tru-Plug (orange pliable foamy cone shaped bung) and an Edson 18gpm manual 
pump on a board emergency pump are standard for most folks tackling offshore 
passagemaking.  If you have the room for the bigger Edson pump (30Gpm), that’s 
even better.  Keep in mind that once the water level gets above your batteries, 
having any high capacity Electric Bilge Pump won’t mean a thing.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2016 4:21 PM
To: C&C List cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

 

You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no matter 
what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.  Its gonna 
sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Apr 14, 2016 3:41 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having trouble 
deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity?  

 

I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 1 
1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses runs 
through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through the 
hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of the 
hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of course 
hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than just 
replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 

 

From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 

 

With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity may 
be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard it 
doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - a 
20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one will.

 

I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking at 
dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I have 
a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood bungs, 
carrots, etc). 

 

-Patrick

1984 C&C Landfall 38

Seattle, WA

 

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
Patrick,

As others have said and that I can attest to, you will not save a boat with a 
1-1/2” hole in it with a few bilge pumps.

I just got back from working on the bilge pump upgrade to my boat. My goal is 
to have a small bilge pump to pull out the usual amount of water that ends up 
in the bilge. I am service the existing Whale Gusher 10 manual pump located at 
the helm. And I have added a Rule 2000 pump on a raised platform in the bilge 
for water evacuation that the small (650 GPH) pump cannot keep up with. The new 
Rule requires a new thru-hull which I will locate in the transom next to the 
existing thru-hull for the Whale Gusher 10. The small pump will exit per the 
C&C design, into a tee fitting in the starboard cockpit drain.

Recent pictures in the blog.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having 
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity? 
> 
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
> gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" to 
> 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses 
> runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs through 
> the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging some of 
> the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, and of 
> course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work than 
> just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + alarm. 
> 
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm 
> 
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 
> 
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity 
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard 
> it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps - 
> a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' one 
> will.
> 
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking 
> at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
> emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I 
> have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood 
> bungs, carrots, etc). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Patrick

Just to correct my earlier post - if you do go with a third pump, the pump 
itself doesn't have to be any higher.  Just the float switch for it.  Make it a 
hummer of a pump a give it a dedicated circuit.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 4:08 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Patrick:
> 
> I don't think anything will keep the boat afloat if a 1-1/2" thru hull 
> disintegrated.  
> 
> I do understand your concern but given the difficulty have you considered 
> adding a third pump slightly higher as an emergency pump?  As you will be 
> running new plumbing anywhere that is convenient you can make it as big as 
> you like.
> 
> John
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having 
>> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump capacity? 
>>  
>> 
>> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or 2000 
>> gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from 3/4" 
>> to 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge hoses 
>> runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs 
>> through the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require enlarging 
>> some of the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole) probably, 
>> and of course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal more work 
>> than just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float switch + 
>> alarm. 
>> 
>> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000. 
>> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
>> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the 
>> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships. 
>> 
>> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range 
>> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity 
>> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also heard 
>> it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge pumps 
>> - a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a 38' 
>> one will.
>> 
>> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from sinking 
>> at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less concerned with 
>> emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far offshore and I 
>> have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty, foam, wood 
>> bungs, carrots, etc). 
>> 
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
There is an article in the new Sail magazine. In it it says you would need
something like 3000 gph capacity if a large hose broke.

Joel

On Thursday, April 14, 2016, John Pennie via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Patrick
>
> Just to correct my earlier post - if you do go with a third pump, the pump
> itself doesn't have to be any higher.  Just the float switch for it.  Make
> it a hummer of a pump a give it a dedicated circuit.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 4:08 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Patrick:
>
> I don't think anything will keep the boat afloat if a 1-1/2" thru hull
> disintegrated.
>
> I do understand your concern but given the difficulty have you considered
> adding a third pump slightly higher as an emergency pump?  As you will be
> running new plumbing anywhere that is convenient you can make it as big as
> you like.
>
> John
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 3:40 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
> trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
> capacity?
>
> I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
> 2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
> 3/4" to 1 1/8", and enlarging the thruhull at the toerail. One of the bilge
> hoses runs through the stbd head (into the head cubbies) and the other runs
> through the hanging locker fwd of the head. Upgrading will require
> enlarging some of the hose holes in the boat's liner (below the cabin sole)
> probably, and of course hole sawing a larger thru hull. So it's a good deal
> more work than just replacing bilge pumps, their wiring, and adding a float
> switch + alarm.
>
> From Wally's page I know he installed a Rule 2000.
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm
> However it sounds like Wally's LF38 had his hoses run differently - to the
> stern quarter - while mine are to stbd mid-ships.
>
> With two 800's I'm at the low end of the 1600-2000 gph capacity range
> recommended by West Marine (and yes I've read all about how actual capacity
> may be much lower, due to voltage drop, head pressure, etc). I've also
> heard it doesn't make much sense to say that bigger boats need bigger bilge
> pumps - a 20' boat will sink just as fast (or faster) with a 1.5" hole as a
> 38' one will.
>
> I'm more concerned with having the capacity to prevent the boat from
> sinking at dock if say a 1.5" thruhull disintegrated somehow. Less
> concerned with emergency pumping while onboard, because I'm not going far
> offshore and I have a lot of emergency hole plugging options to try (putty,
> foam, wood bungs, carrots, etc).
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List
Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
calculator, but I found
this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html

A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750
gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting
for efficiency losses.

So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000
gph total)

Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's probably
not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock for 12+
hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a small
difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph...
assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph).

So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So
whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I
still need to plug it really friggin quickly.

I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty.
Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a
critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of
those things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is
better" approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell,
*broken* bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring,
etc).


On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM,  wrote:

> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>
> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
> matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
> Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Agree on the broken pump comment but...

The bigger pump does exactly what you said - buys time while you make a repair. 
 As you know it's not always as simple as sticking a nice tapered plug into a 
nice round hole.  This is especially true in the event of a collision (shipping 
container, etc) where the temporary repair may take a little more creativity, 
time ... and trial and error.   Obviously the further offshore the more of an 
issue this can become.

John

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 6:10 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a 
> calculator, but I found 
> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
> 
> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750 
> gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting for 
> efficiency losses. 
> 
> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000 gph 
> total)
> 
> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's probably 
> not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock for 12+ 
> hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a small 
> difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph... 
> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph). 
> 
> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So 
> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I 
> still need to plug it really friggin quickly. 
> 
> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty. 
> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a 
> critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of those 
> things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is better" 
> approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell, *broken* 
> bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring, etc). 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM,  wrote:
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no matter 
>> what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.  Its 
>> gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
While re-launching this year I accidentally left the depth transducer out.
It is a hole about 1.5 or 1.75 inches in diameter.  The bilge pump started
almost immediately but since I was on deck I assumed that water had been
trapped and was now draining into the bilge.  After about 30 seconds when
the pump didn't shutoff I looked below to see a geyser.  I jumped down and
grabbed one of the wooden plugs which had conveniently floated into easy
reach.  Water was at the bottom of the floorboards!  I hoped up and asked
the travel lift operator to lift the boat up.  Once the boat was clear of
the water I unplugged the hole.  With the bilge pump running, and water
free to run out, it still took about 5 minutes to drain.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 14, 2016 6:11 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
> calculator, but I found
> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
>
> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) =
> 3750 gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after
> accounting for efficiency losses.
>
> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000
> gph total)
>
> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's
> probably not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock
> for 12+ hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a
> small difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph...
> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph).
>
> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So
> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I
> still need to plug it really friggin quickly.
>
> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty.
> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a
> critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of
> those things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is
> better" approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell,
> *broken* bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring,
> etc).
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>>
>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
>> matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
>> Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List
Only sailors tell these stories on themselves…

John

> On Apr 14, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While re-launching this year I accidentally left the depth transducer out.  
> It is a hole about 1.5 or 1.75 inches in diameter.  The bilge pump started 
> almost immediately but since I was on deck I assumed that water had been 
> trapped and was now draining into the bilge.  After about 30 seconds when the 
> pump didn't shutoff I looked below to see a geyser.  I jumped down and 
> grabbed one of the wooden plugs which had conveniently floated into easy 
> reach.  Water was at the bottom of the floorboards!  I hoped up and asked the 
> travel lift operator to lift the boat up.  Once the boat was clear of the 
> water I unplugged the hole.  With the bilge pump running, and water free to 
> run out, it still took about 5 minutes to drain.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 14, 2016 6:11 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a 
> calculator, but I found 
> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html 
> <http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html>
> 
> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750 
> gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting for 
> efficiency losses. 
> 
> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000 gph 
> total)
> 
> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's probably 
> not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock for 12+ 
> hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a small 
> difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph... 
> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph). 
> 
> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So 
> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I 
> still need to plug it really friggin quickly. 
> 
> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty. 
> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make a 
> critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of those 
> things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is better" 
> approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell, *broken* 
> bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring, etc). 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM,  <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: 
> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no matter 
> what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.  Its 
> gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I've been holding on to it for a few weeks now.  😜

Josh
On Apr 14, 2016 9:59 PM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Only sailors tell these stories on themselves…
>
> John
>
> On Apr 14, 2016, at 9:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> While re-launching this year I accidentally left the depth transducer
> out.  It is a hole about 1.5 or 1.75 inches in diameter.  The bilge pump
> started almost immediately but since I was on deck I assumed that water had
> been trapped and was now draining into the bilge.  After about 30 seconds
> when the pump didn't shutoff I looked below to see a geyser.  I jumped down
> and grabbed one of the wooden plugs which had conveniently floated into
> easy reach.  Water was at the bottom of the floorboards!  I hoped up and
> asked the travel lift operator to lift the boat up.  Once the boat was
> clear of the water I unplugged the hole.  With the bilge pump running, and
> water free to run out, it still took about 5 minutes to drain.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 14, 2016 6:11 PM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
>> calculator, but I found
>> this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
>>
>> A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) =
>> 3750 gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after
>> accounting for efficiency losses.
>>
>> So why do some people go for high bilge pump capacities? (like 2000-4000
>> gph total)
>>
>> Sure it gives you a bit more time, but if I'm not at the boat it's
>> probably not going to make a difference (there's often no one on our dock
>> for 12+ hours between say 8pm and 8am), and if I am, it will only make a
>> small difference. (ex,  the difference between 800+800gph vs 800+2000gph...
>> assuming 75% efficiency that's 1200gph vs 2100gph).
>>
>> So with that 1.5" hole I'd take on net water of ~42.5 gpm vs 25.8 gpm. So
>> whether 42 gallons per minute are coming in, or 25 gallons per minute, I
>> still need to plug it really friggin quickly.
>>
>> I do have the StaPlug btw, and Stay Afloat putty.
>> Just having a hard time imagining scenarios where an 800+2000 would make
>> a critical difference vs an 800+800, and wondering if this is just one of
>> those things where boaters are a bit paranoid and choosing the "bigger is
>> better" approach when that's not necessarily true. From what I can tell,
>> *broken* bilge pumps are the biggest issue (clogged, burnt out, bad wiring,
>> etc).
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:22 PM,  wrote:
>>
>>> From: Josh Muckley 
>>> To: "C&C List" 
>>> Cc:
>>> Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2016 16:21:23 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?
>>>
>>> You'll have a shockingly hard time keeping up with a 1.5 inch hole no
>>> matter what size bilge pump you have.  Plugging the hole is always better.
>>> Its gonna sink if the seacock disintegrates while you're not there.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump capacity?

2016-04-14 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Don't forget to carry a couple toilet wax rings in addition to the wooden
or pliable plugs.  :)

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  4:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wolf...@erie.net Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump 
question Listers:New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump 
for the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the 
switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to 
me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. Thanks 
everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend
to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding
as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic
switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having just the
new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge
is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced
the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3
years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that
it will last more than 3 years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my 
opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  
If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may 
give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, 
bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 
gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that 
ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 
gph.Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm 
pumps are not affected nearly as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the 
very last drops but they tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest 
that you consider adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run 
on an automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really 
having just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once 
the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm 
pump.For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I 
replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years 
and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will 
last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn 
Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Josh;

 

I installed the Johnson pump several years ago. I really like the fact that the 
motor can be easily removed for cleaning and for replacement. Yes, it still 
needs to be replaced about every 3 years; I actually keep a spare motor 
cartridge among the spares on the boat.

 

I’m lucky that when I bought the first pump from West Marine I added the 3 year 
extended warranty (about $15 IIRC). When the first motor failed, I installed 
the spare and got a new replacement from WM under the warranty (which became 
the spare). I also bought the extended warranty on that replacement pump. I 
think the spare currently on the boat is the third one that has been replaced 
under extended warranty over the years.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

 

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List
I didn’t chime in, so you’re only disagreeing with Josh :-). 

I’m way off the norm on this topic. Years ago, I installed an automatic bilge 
pump with a float switch on the Enterprise-A (C&C 34) which worked great for a 
couple of months. Then the float switch malfunctioned and was stuck in the on 
position, killing the battery. 

Now I’m back to the old fashioned way - no automatic; just switched. 

Normally, my bilge is steadily low. And after some major rainfall, it’ll pump 
out pretty quickly. 

I agree with Bruce — if you find that you need more than 300gph on a regular 
basis, you’ve got a bigger problem and you’re better off finding it and 
correcting it. 

My pump is 200gph, and maybe I’ll use it once every two months for three 
minutes or less. The last time I had to run it more frequently than that, I 
needed new packing in my stuffing box. 

PS - Don’t  be afraid to disagree with Josh. Sometimes it’s good to put that 
young hippie know-it-all in his place now and then. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:53 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:


I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  

But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically 
wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, 
it may give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to 
clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   

I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 
1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that 
actually delivers 500 gph.

Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps 
are not affected nearly as much.

Just my $.02 worth

Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to 
be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high 
of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You 
could have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow 
pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can 
pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Listers:
> 
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
> and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
> that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
> people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so 
> I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Bruce,

That's why I like the 2 stage system which I suggested.  It gets the best
of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid points about the weaknesses of
centrifugal pumps.

Josh


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.
>
> But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is
> dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If
> you're on the boat, it may give you more time to find the leak, but my
> centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the
> stated volume.
>
> I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a
> 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that
> actually delivers 500 gph.
>
> Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm
> pumps are not affected nearly as much.
>
> Just my $.02 worth
>
> Bruce
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>
> The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they
> tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider
> adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an
> automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having
> just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once
> the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm
> pump.
>
> For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I
> replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed
> withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed
> within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not
> hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers:
>>
>> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for
>> the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
>> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
>> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
>> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
>> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
>> suggestions.
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

2020-06-23 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
Fair enough Josh,  I don't have the backup of the high capacity centrifugal 
pump.Of course, with my recent fiasco. I am evidently at much higher risk of 
being killed by an errant jetski than drowning because my bilge pump won't keep 
up.  :(More on that is forthcoming...Thanks as always to Josh, your insights 
are always invaluable. Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  11:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question Bruce,That's why I like the 2 stage system which 
I suggested.  It gets the best of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid 
points about the weaknesses of centrifugal pumps.Josh On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 
22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:I hate disagreeing 
with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my opinion is that if you 
need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the 
boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may give you more time to 
find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least 
never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will 
actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't 
think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 gph.Centrifugal pumps tend 
to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps are not affected nearly 
as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung tablet. Original 
message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  Date: 
6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List  Cc: Josh 
Muckley  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question The 
diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to be 
relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high of 
a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You could 
have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow pump run 
as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can pump the 
dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.For high flow you're basically going 
to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the original Rule with another pricey 
Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood 
Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump. 
 I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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