Re: [Elecraft] K2 still a viable portable contest station?

2019-02-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ignacy and All,

Everything Jim says is true, but still, the K2 can be a very good 
contest transceiver.


The K2 is indeed a viable contest station, either portable or home 
station - especially for CW, but a bit less so for SSB for the reasons 
that Jim stated.  VOX is not going to work well, so use PTT.


The normal SSB filter (OP1) - normally used as receive FL1, and always 
used for SSB transmit is a good flat filter that provides a fine 
response if the filters are properly aligned to place the bandpass 
correctly.


The SSB FL2, FL3, FL4 filters formed using the RF Board crystal filter 
are a bit 'ragged', but if properly aligned can be used successfully if 
one is willing to sacrifice 'critical ears' and maintain communications 
when narrowing the receive filter becomes a necessity.  I would not run 
a contest with those filters switched in, but would use them to narrow 
the filter to eliminate QRM in the midst of a contact.  That does 
require the filters be optimized.  The manual gives workable filter, but 
are not optimum.  To adjust for optimum filter, one must adjust the 
filter width and the passband position using a wideband noise generator 
and observing the passband position with an audio spectrum analyzer such 
as Spectrogram or SpectrumLab.


For contest operating, I suggest setting the K2 SSBC parameter to 4:1, 
and for normal operating set it to 3:1.


As for mic gain, there are only 3 settings.  With an electret type 
microphone such as the Elecraft MH2/MH4 or the ProSet-K2 (or Proset-iC), 
an SSBA setting of 1 is normally adequate.
For dynamic microphones, a setting of SSBA 2 is normally adequate except 
for the more recent Heil elements such as the HC-6 which may want an 
SSBA of 3 to produce adequate output.


Jim's mod for reduced low frequency response of the KSB2 involves 
replacing 2 capacitors.  C34 should be replaced with a 0.47uF capacitor 
and C32 replaced with a capacitor in the range of .0033uF to .005uF.  I 
normally use .0047 with success.


The KX2/KX3/K3/K3S has both transmit equalizers, plus better compression 
and mic gain handling, but a K2 with properly aligned filters is 
entirely usable for contesting and is better than a lot of other amateur 
rigs out there being used in a contest - except for the hard-core 
contesters who insist on having only the 'best' transceivers.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2019 3:19 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 2/27/2019 5:33 AM, Ignacy wrote:

K3 has an excellent speech processor with equalization. K2 has compressor
and sounds OK but not dramatic with good microphone. IMHO KX3 
processor is
not too efficient and even below K2. But KX3 has an equalizer allowing 
any

mic to sound good.


Yes. The K2 is compromised in several ways on SSB. First, the audio 
stage is low on gain, so a mic doesn't hit the peak limiter hard enough 
to do much. Second, the audio chain has a flat response, so low 
frequency components of the voice waste transmitter power. I did a mod 
for mine, which W3FPR knows about, that provides some low end rolloff 
and increases mic gain by about 6dB. That helped, but it's nowhere near 
what the K3 and KX3 are capable of.


Second, the narrow settings of the receive filter are produced by 
stagger-tuning of the multi-stage CW filter, and their combined response 
looks like a side view of the Rocky Mountains, so the accompanying phase 
shift distorts the RX audio enough that using the narrow settings often 
degrades speech intelligibility (that is, it makes voices HARDER to 
understand).


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item.  Use it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but also
has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this is
simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 Voltage Drop when transmitting

2019-02-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

John and all,

A 25 amp power supply should adequately power the K3 at 100 watts - but 
check the K3 specifications if contemplating 100 watts for DATA modes. 
The K3 is rated for ICAS and not for continuous duty.


Also keep in mind that the K3 is a bit different than other amateur 
transceivers in the way it controls power.  The K3 attempts to maintain 
the power in watts rather than just the drive level when you set the 
power knob at 100 watts.
That means if the voltage drops during transmit, the K3 will increase 
the drive and maintain 100 watts.  It takes more current to produce 100 
watts at 11 volts than it does at 13.8 volts.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/25/2019 2:44 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I suspect the problem is the power supply and Don has some good
suggestions. I am not sure what the actual K3 power requirements are.
FWIW, Astron's are rated for ICS, if you really want 25 amps continuous
you need a 35 amp linear power supply.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 Voltage Drop when transmitting

2019-02-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jimmy,

Astron power supplies have a nasty habit of having loose wiring 
terminals.  They use only pressure to hold the ring terminals on the 
inside to the terminal bolts.
If you can detect even a slight rotation of the bolt when tightening 
terminals on the outside, remove the covers and tighten those bolts from 
the inside.


The other problem is improperly assembled APP connectors.  If you look 
straight into the end of the connector, if you can see the tip of 2 
blades in either side, give the contact blade an extra push from the 
wire side until the contact blade locks over the locking tab.
That is also a cause of APP connectors which tend to pull out with very 
little tension.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/25/2019 2:12 PM, James Walker wrote:

I have a K3 that behaves similarly to what Mike described. I switched from an 
Astron 25 amp (15 years or more old) power supply to a switching power supply. 
Problem solved. One would think the problem was my Astron power supply, but I 
don’t see any such power drop when I use my Astron with other 100 watt rigs. 
Very strange.

Jimmy Walker, WA4ILO
Macon, GA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 Voltage Drop when transmitting

2019-02-25 Thread Don Sayler
I had a similar problem. I checked the key-down voltage at my power supply, and 
was surprised to see that it was low (I don't recall the exact voltage).I'm 
using an Astron linear power supply. I replaced the voltage regulator in the 
power supply, and the problem was solved.73,Don Sayler W7OXRSent via my Mobile
 Original message From: mjpilgrim  
Date: 2/25/19  10:55 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
[Elecraft] K3/100  Voltage Drop when transmitting At first i suspected my Solar 
power system which was installed a year ago,but now I  plugged my K3 S/N 7317 
directly into my 25A switching DC powersupply, and when key down, 100W in CW, 
on the internal K3 Power Meter i seea voltage drop from 13.6 to 12.0VDC.  My 
power cord is a 6',  10ga strandedcopper wire pair with Andersen Power Pole 
connectors.  I have tried threeseparate power cords, all 10ga with power pole 
connectors, but with nochange in the voltage drop scenario.  If anyone has 
suggestions of where theproblem  lies, I am all ears. Obviously, when operating 
SSB the drop ispresent but not as severe.  What am i dealing with?  Better yet, 
how do ifix it?  Thanks in advance.Cheers,Mike, K5MP--Sent from: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/__Elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AFSK TX Filter

2019-02-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed,

I am not certain what you are referring to as the "AFSK TX filter".
You must enable the 2.7 or 2.8kHz filter for all DATA modes.

You can enable any filters for receive in any mode, but you cannot use 
narrow filters for transmit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/24/2019 1:40 PM, Ed G wrote:

After switching on the AFSK TX filter in the CONFIG menu, I find that the 
filter essentially blocks all the soundcard audio from being transmitted by the 
K3, so that I have no output with the filter switched on. Line In gain settings 
are correct per recent suggestions by Joe, W4TV, and all other K3 settings are 
proper. When I turn off the AFSK TX filter, the K3 returns to operating 
normally in AFSK Data mode, with full power output.  I can leave the filter out 
but am wondering why it is blocking the audio? I am using MMTTY, so perhaps it 
is a setup issue within that program?
--Ed—

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Re: [Elecraft] P3TXMON Advice

2019-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

The 200 watt coupler will give more resolution at lower powers.
In other words, the 2000 watt coupler covers the scale from 0 to 2000 
watts, and 100 watts is only 1/20th of the way up the scale.  With the 
200 watt coupler, 100 watts is the halfway point.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/23/2019 6:09 PM, Steve Witt wrote:

I'm contemplating adding a P3 to my K3s and the P3TXMON option seems a
worthwhile addition. I am trying to figure out which directional
coupler to select but can't find much if any information between the
DCHF-200 and DCHF-2000. So I don't have any data upon which to base
the decision. At the current time I have a K3s/10 and a KXPA100 amp
and so the 200W coupler would be fine but maybe there's a higher power
amp in my future, don't know. Seems like there must be some
performance aspect that the DCHF-200 has that's superior to the
DCHF-2000 or else there would be no reason for the '200s existence.

If anyone can give a little more information I would very much
appreciate it.

73,
Steve  K6ZX


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and DATA Mode Transmit Question

2019-02-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed,

It would seem that N1MM+ and MMTTY are fighting for the RTTY operation.
Normal RTTY operation is on lower sideband, and that is the default of 
AFSK A.  If it is set to upper sideband, the ALT button will switch 
sidebands for you.


Make certain that you do not have "reverse" or "invert" or anything that 
would change the sideband for AFSK A mode set in either MMTTY or N1MM+.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/23/2019 8:36 AM, Ed G wrote:

My K3 seems to be all set up for RTTY – DATA Mode, AFSK A selected, I am using 
Line in on the rear panel (selected in the MENU), I use MMTTY/N1MM, and I use a 
microKeyer III.  All appears well except that I need to switch the K3 into USB 
mode to actually transmit RTTY.  If I have the K3 set to DATA mode, the PTT is 
working (K3 TX light comes on) but the K3 is not transmitting tones.

This must be something simple I am overlooking. Any ideas for what to check?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 XFIL Button

2019-02-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed,

Keep in mind that the DSP provides the ultimate filter width, the one 
situation you asked about - roofing filter wider than the DSP filter is 
already present - just set the filter configuration to "lie" about the 
actual filter width, and the roofing filter will be switched in at a DSP 
width that is wider than the roofing filter.


The other (DSP filter wider than the roofing filter) does not make much 
sense to me.  Yes, in the filter configuration, you can tell the K3 that 
the (for example) 400Hz filter is really a 600 Hz filter, then you have 
accomplished what you desire.


I do not have much use for the XFIL button and never use it. I let the 
Width control (or HiCut/LoCUT for SSB) switch in whichever roofing 
filter is appropriate and consistent with the DSP width I have selected 
and it works well.


The DSP filter width is a "brick wall filter" and you will not be able 
to hear signals outside that bandwidth.


Keep in mind the purpose of the roofing filters.  In a crowded band, the 
roofing filters keep strong adjacent stations from activating the 
Hardware AGC which is there to protect the ADC from overloading.  In 
other words (again using the 400Hz roofing filter example), if you have 
the DSP bandwidth set at 300Hz centered on [150Hz plus sidetone pitch = 
750 Hz], and you have a very strong signal at 850 Hz, you will not hear 
the strong signal because of the DSP width, but it will activate the 
hardware AGC causing the AGC to 'pump' and the receiver sensitivity will 
be reduced as a result of that 'pumping' - even though you cannot hear 
the signal.


As an alternative, you might want to try turning on DUAL PB in the menu 
which will give you a wider passband that is attenuated from the narrow 
filter peak (or focus).  I believe that will give you what you seek.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/20/2019 5:15 PM, Ed G wrote:

Seems like the K3 XFIL button essentially does the same thing as the DSP width 
knob. That is, depending on how the user has set up the filter configuration, 
both DSP and filter selected are pretty much automatic and linked together. 
Adjusting the width knob will result in a particular crystal filter being 
selected, and similarly, using the XFIL button to select a filter will 
automatically adjust the DSP setting.

On occasion, I would like to be able to use a wider DSP setting with a narrower crystal filter, or a narrower DSP setting with a wider crystal filter.  

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Re: [Elecraft] Announcing W8FGU Servicing Elecraft's Classic Line ofProducts

2019-02-19 Thread Don Schroder

Welcome aboard, Dave!

I have been working closely with Don Wilhelm while assembling my K2 (serial 
7818). We have had quite a few burps,
but with Don’s help I am getting closer to completion. Then I will be able to 
make MY FIRST QSO as a new ham! The
K2 is my first and only ham radio, and I am excited to finish the build and 
have a working station.

We are attempting to work through a difficult problem right now. I could 
include you in email conversations I have
with Don, if you would like, to keep you in the loop.

Again, welcome to the group, and I look forward to working with Don AND YOU.
Thanks, and 73
Don Schroder, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dave Van Wallaghen<mailto:d...@w8fgu.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 4:29 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] Announcing W8FGU Servicing Elecraft's Classic Line 
ofProducts

Announcing W8FGU Services, LLC now providing build, repair and alignment
services for the Elecraft Classic Line of
transceivers and accessories as well as the mini-module line.

Hi fellow Elecraft list members, this is Dave, W8FGU and I’m announcing
(with Elecraft’s blessing) that I am now
providing support services for the Elecraft Classic Line of products
(K2, K1, KX1, associated transceivers and accessories)
and their mini-module line of products.

As you may or may not know, our legendary guru Don Wilhelm, W3FPR is
retiring this month from providing these
services for the past 20 years or so. Although Don is retiring from the
physical support of these fine products, he has
assured all of us that he will continue to provide guidance and advice
via the Elecraft email reflector for the foreseeable
future.

Through Don’s guidance and encouragement and the numerous discussions
with Don and senior management at
Elecraft over the last few weeks, I have decided to continue Don’s
legacy in the Elecraft support arena. Don has been
gracious enough to share with me his business model, pricing, policies
and procedures so that I may continue to try and
provide the same services he has provided for so many years. I am
committed to providing the same high quality and
timely service at the same standard Don has set during his tenure.

As this is an ambitious venture on my part, Don has assured me that he
is only a phone call or email away for when I
need his assistance. And of course, I have the complete support of the
fine folks at Elecraft. It is with their spirit and
support that we believe we can carry Don’s legacy of servicing these
fine products of Elecraft engineering, well into the
future.

Elecraft has always been more than supportive of my enclosure business
since 2006. In that time, I have sold hundreds
of poly-carbonate and acrylic enclosures for their mini-module line of
products and dust covers for the KX3, PX3 and
KX2. These are all produced by hand in a modest workshop in my basement.
I have been invited and worked in their
booth in Dayton for the past 12 years. I’ve enjoyed a great working
relationship with Eric, Wayne and many of the sales
and support staff and look forward to continuing that relationship with
this new venture.

As many of you know, I am still working full time as a Lieutenant (fire
fighter/medic) for the Brownstown Fire
Department here in SE Michigan. I will be able to retire in a little
over two years. But my background has been technical
since high school. My grandfather (the original W8FGU SK) taught me
about ham radio as a child. He passed away when I was a teenager, but he
encouraged me to continue my education and I obtained an Associates in
Electrical Engineering in 1982 and soon began a career as an electronic
tech that turned into a 20-year programming and IT career in the PC
software development arena. Although I have been a firefighter since the
age of 14, my full-time career did not start until October of 2000.

With that said, blowing off the dust on my tech skills and with support
of Don and all the folks at Elecraft, I am very
confident I will carry on the high support standard that Don has
established well into the future and for the life of these
products. Please contact me at this email address for any comments,
questions or concerns. Also please visit my
website: www.w8fgu.com for details of the services I provide and more
details in how to contact me.

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Dave W8FGU
(This announcement has been posted with the expressed permission of Eric
(list moderator) and Elecraft management)

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 base low xmit power on all bands @ > 10 watts

2019-02-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

First, you should not take output from the lower BNC jack when the 
KPA100 is installed.  All RF must go through the KPA100 wattmeter for 
proper power control.  That is why your power output at 5 watts is 
excessive.  Put a boot over the lower panel BNC jack as a reminder that 
it should not be used (unless the KPA100 is physically removed - along 
with all 4 cables).


As for the higher power output, it sounds like your KPA100 wattmeter is 
not properly calibrated.  Go to the KPA100 manual and turn to page 49. 
Do the SWR Bridge Null Adjustment and the Power Calibration (R26 and 
R27) so your KAT100 power is equal to that shown on the LP-100.

You must use a good 50 ohm dummy load (not an antenna) to insure accuracy.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/19/2019 11:03 AM, K5MMH wrote:

Hello All,

Let me first state that I do not know how long this condition has existed. I
recently added an LP-100 watt meter to my shack and have noticed low
transmit power on all bands (10 thru 160) when power is set to 10 watts or
greater. I have an KPA100, and with it installed, I see no more than 60 to
70 watts max. My K2 is S/N 3010, and I built it new along with all of the
add-ons. To provide the values listed below I removed the KPA100, and
connected the LP-100 (recently re-calibrated by Larry Phipps) directly to
the K2 base BNC antenna connector, with a DL1 dummy load on the load side of
the LP-100 coupler. For input power, I am using a 13.5 VDC  50A power
supply, supplying power to the K2 via barrel jack J3. With power set to 2
watts, I am reading 2+ watts on the LP-100 on all bands. With power set to 5
watts,  I am reading 5+ watts on all bands. Increasing power to 10 watts
results in the following values (and the internal K2 watt meter coincides
with these values) :
10m = 9.60w @ 2.56A current draw (seen on the K2 internal watt meter
display)
12m = 8.80w @ 2.04A
15m = 9.10w @ 1.74A
17m = 9.40w @ 1.80A
20m = 9.40w @ 1.92A
30m = 9.20w @ 3.14A
40m = 10.10w @ 2.76A (the exception, as 40m is above 10w)
80m = 7.20w @ 2.70A
160m = 7.00w @ 3.12A

When power is further increased to 15 watts, these are the readings:
10m = 12.10w @ 3.00A
12m = 10.60w @ 2.24A
15m = 10.10w @ 2.30A
17m = 11.90w @ 2.34A
20m = 11.50w @ 2.50A
30m = 10.00w @ 4.00A
40m = 9.20w @ 4.10A
80m = 7.40w @ 3.80A
160m = 7.30 @ 4.00A

I have gone thru the 40m transmitter alignment and the transmitter alignment
steps outlines on pages 72 and 74 of the manual. I also ordered and just
replaced (two days ago) the PA transistors thinking this was my problem.
But, the issue persists.

Any assistance will be much appreciated.

73

Mike Harang
K5MMH
Franklinton, LA.







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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Shutdown and Power up problems.

2019-02-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bernie,

Do you have a saved configuration file for that KX3 from a time it was 
working properly?


If so, you can do an EEINIT (Reset to Factory Defaults) - see the manual 
for the procedure.


The reset will lose the calibration data and any menu settings that you 
have added.  That is why the saved configuration file is important - 
restore the configuration file using KX3 Utility.


If you have no other recourse, you can request the factory configuration 
file from supp...@elecraft.com.  Be sure to specify your serial number.


If the EEINIT does not correct it, you can ask for an RSA to send it in 
for service.  If you prefer, it can be sent to the service facility in 
Italy.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/18/2019 5:57 PM, BERNARD COLLINS via Elecraft wrote:

My KX3 has developed a problem after a power interrupt/restore carried out by 
my mistake. With batteries fitted it will no longer fully power down, it stays 
orange with (7) *** stars showing on screen and Delta f light on and OFS 
and B green lights on. I have to disconnect all power to the unit to fully 
shutdown ie pull out one battery and no external supply.
i have run utility and down loaded the latest firmware programes several times 
with no success as per page 25 of the manual. On re establishing power to KX3 
either external or battery radio starts up automatically and is working. i 
would be great full  of any suggestions  from the group.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Power Supply Issue

2019-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

Be certain the control cable between the KPA1500 RF deck and the power 
supply is seated properly and the jackscrews tightened.  The fact that 
the KPA1500 power switch does nothing is an indicator that the cable may 
have some problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2019 6:41 PM, paule408--- via Elecraft wrote:

Last August, I had my KPA1500 repaired by Elecraft as one PA transistor failed. 
They replaced both PA transistors and sent it back to me under warranty. Only 
the RF deck was shipped to Elecraft. The KPA1500 power supply stayed home 
unplugged during this time,.
I kept using my backup Amp until today when I removed the KPA1500 from the box 
and installed it in my shack. I connected everything up and connected the power 
supply to my 220v outlet.
Upon powering up the Power Supply, only the AC On green LED lights. Nothing 
from the HV Supply or LV Supply LEDs on the power supply. The RF deck does not 
power on.
I have re-seated the heavy red/black cables several times as well as unplugged 
and plugged in the power supply several times, however the power supply does 
not seem to provide power to the RF deck.
Before I pack it up and ship it back to Elecraft, is there anything else that I 
should check?
Thanks,
Paul N6PSE

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Re: [Elecraft] low pass filters

2019-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
A low-pass filter will not change RFI either coming into the shack or 
going out.  There are low-pass filters in all transceivers produced by 
Elecraft (and most other manufacturers), and they are in both the 
transmit and receive path.
The current FCC requirement is for the 2nd harmonic be suppressed by 43 
dB over the fundamental.
Low pass filters come from a past era when the FCC requirements were not 
as stringent and TVs responded to those higher order harmonics from 
amateur transmitters.  That is no longer the case.


Considering receive, we do have many sources of unintentional radiation 
which is present in the HF spectrum, and other than locating and having 
the offending device turned off, there is not much we can do about it. 
Although if it is interfering with licensed operation, there is recourse 
by cooperation with the FCC.  The products giving problems range from 
inexpensive switching power sources (read wall-warts) to control 
circuits in many household appliances and other consumer devices, and 
even some lighting products.


If you are operating in an environment like Field Day where there are 
multiple transmitters operating in close proximity, bandpass filters and 
single band antennas are the normal "cure" as well as physical 
separation of the antennas.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 2/17/2019 5:59 PM, Richards wrote:
Good day -   What is the consensus concerning low-pass filters to 
minimize RFI both coming in and going out  of the shack?   Is there a 
type or size, brand or model that comes highly recommended?  Is it 
prudent to employ one, regardless of whether or not there is a known, 
identified problem , i.e., just in case?  Does it assist reception as 
well as transmission?



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Re: [Elecraft] New KPA500/KAT500 question

2019-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

I see that you have it figured out.

As to your question - the K3 and P3 connect together using the IF out 
coax and the RS-232 connection.


The KAT500/KPA500 connect using the AUX cable - that is no 
interconnection between the P3 and the KAT500/KPA500, they are entirely 
separate.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/16/2019 9:06 PM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:




Can you expand on:

"There is no relationship between the K3 and P3 for considerations with 
the amplifier and ATU."


What does this mean exactly?


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Re: [Elecraft] New KPA500/KAT500 question

2019-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

Open the KAT500 manual to page 5 and see the cabling diagram depicted there.

There is no relationship between the K3 and P3 for considerations with 
the amplifier and ATU.


If you have a K3S - the P3 connects to the P3 with the RS232 connector 
and not the ACC connector, so there is no conflict.


If you have the K3S or a K3 upgraded with the KIO3B, then download the 
latest P3 manual and look at the cabling on page 5.  You will need the 
CBLP3Y to connect it as shown there.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/16/2019 7:51 PM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:

Hello,

I have a K3, and a P3, connected to a computer.  I now have a KAT500, 
and a KPA500.


I do not see a full cabling diagram for the entire setup.  Does one 
exist?  If so, where can I obtain it?



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Re: [Elecraft] Removing/connecting PL-259s

2019-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Drew and all,

I have changed the subject line to something more akin to the current 
discussion.


Have you considered adding a coax switch?  Turning to switch to an open 
position (or better yet to a dummy load) when the radio is not in use 
will provide protection and is a lot easier than removing the connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/16/2019 6:07 PM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
FWIW, I use NO-OX-ID contact grease on my PL259 connectors. This allows 
very tight snugging by hand, no need of wrenching.


During lightning season I frequently connect/disconnect my rig and tuner 
cables. The fine film of lube on the connector threads makes a big 
difference. Without it? A real PITA, not to mention wear and tear on the 
the SO-239's.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and SDR IQ ( Spectravue) question

2019-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Viggo,

How do you propose to connect the SDR IQ to the KX3?
The KX3 does not have an IF output - in fact the KX3 IF is either at 
baseband or 8kHz if you turn on the 8kHz shift in the menu.


The KX3 DOES have the RX I/Q output which you can connect to a computer 
soundcard or the KX3 for a panadapter display.


Yes, the SDR IQ works fine with the K3 which has an IF output at 8.215MHz.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/16/2019 12:03 PM, Viggo Magnus Nilsen Nilsen wrote:

Hello Elecrafters.,

Have some of you connected an SDR IQ to the KX3,, ( use as an Panadapter
with Spectravue) ?

Work very well with the K3

73' Viggo  LA9NEA.,

KX3,K3 and KPA500 owner.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3A Failure & related

2019-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob and all,

I think this problem is not so much with the amplifier, but the K3/K3S.
Consider that the switchover from the low power amplifier to the KPA3 is 
in the 12 to 15 watt range.  That is where the LPA is generating about 
all the power it can produce.  Above that range, the KPA3 kicks in and 
everything is "loafing along".


Oh yes, aside from that, some amplifiers do fail for various reasons - 
and I think we are mixing failures of the K3/K3S with amplifier failures 
in this thread.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/16/2019 1:43 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
This discussion has risen its nasty head earlier.  Wes and I exchanged 
several private e-mails on the topic.  Here is what I've learned:


My purchased new from the factory my K3S -100 in August of 2015. With it 
I drove my AL-80B with 60 to 80 watts for some two years.   Absolute no 
issues of concern.    In April of 2018 I purchased a new KPA500 and put 
it in place of the AL-80B.   I drove the KPA500 with my K3S at 15 watts 
for some 2 weeks.  Then reports of "fuzzy audio" surfaced.  The 2 tone 
test revealed excessive IMD.  I contacted Tech Support and they arranged 
to send me a LPA3 and a KPA3A.   These were installed and all was well 
for about one week.  Then again the reports of "fuzzy audio".  I 
contacted Tech Support again and they said "send it in".   The service 
report indicated they replaced the KPA3A with a rev E which is reported 
to be more stable.  An interesting comment on the Elecraft Service 
report; "Due to failure of the stable rev E amp, this indicates 
something in the shack.   Possible kickback from and amplifier.   It is 
likely to happen again if the root cause is not found. " 
UGH...folks, the amp is a KPA500! >> HOUSTON - DO WE HAVE A PROBLEM?>>


In the discussions via e-mail and here on the reflector which followed, 
I learned of others which experienced the same type issues.  I asked 
"what's the solution".   Interestingly the answer came back [I don't 
recall from whom}  "stay away from 15 watts". Since then I have driven 
my KPA500 with 20 watts .PLUS  I have connected and engaged the ALC 
from the KPA500 to my K3S.  This is a menu item in the K3S.  Now some 
may not like the ALC connection and activation.


My thinking is that IF there are any spikes originated with the rise of 
the CW signal or voice signal this may overdrive the amp.   With my P3 I 
see this A LOT on SSB signals on the bands which exhibit initial ALC 
overshoot.  This is both on CW and SSB.    Makes me wonder what does the 
input impedance of the KPA500 does when hit with a millisecond or so of 
excessive drive?   Not long enough to activate the attenuator or throw a 
fault signal. I do know that tube amps reflect to their input the 
effective tuning of the output.   Could this be an issue with solid 
state amps where the input impedance goes to zero thus placing in effect 
short on the driving transceiver?   Mind you not long enough to throw a 
fault signal butwhat does it do to the driving stage?     I've 
not measured it and am not exactly sure how to accomplish this.  It may 
not be the issue at all.   Perhaps some of you more technical gurus can 
expound further on the topic.


I do know factually since the change to the KPA3A  rev E, and I 
activated the ALC between the KPA500 and my K3S the issue has not reared 
its ugly head.   Lets hope it doesn't.


All in all, I am VERY pleased with Elecraft Tech support and extremely 
pleased with my K3S, P3, KPA500 and KAT500.  A winning combination. But 
I'm still walking on eggs  and hoping none break.


73

Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] KEYBOARD

2019-02-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Most Logitech keyboards work well with the P3.
I don't know about the mini-keyboards.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/15/2019 9:53 PM, Bob Gibson via Elecraft wrote:

I'm looking for the recommend keyboard to plug into the back of the P3 that 
works! I looking for a mini keyboard..The one I have does not work..

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: IF Tap Point

2019-02-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Since I have no had my hands on a DXE buffer amplifier, I have to guess.
Jack had a bandpass filter designed for the K2 at the output that peaked 
the response at 4915 kHz.
I have the Z1B-K2 buffer instructions on my computer.  If DXE is 
using the same board layout, then it should be easy for anyone to add 
the filter from the instructions.


If you want a copy, send me an email off-reflector and I will send a 
copy to you.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/15/2019 1:26 PM, Paul Gacek wrote:

Don

Do you know what has to be done (extra circuitry etc) to get the DXE Clifton 
Lab amp to work with a K2 and essentially mirror the functionality of Jack 
Smith’s one?

Paul Gacek
W6PNG/M0SNA




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Re: [Elecraft] K2: IF Tap Point

2019-02-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

The IF take-off point normally used for the K2 is at J12 pin 1 which is 
after the Post-Mixer amplifier.  That point provides a signal that is 
about equal in strength to the antenna input affords isolation for BFO 
leakthrough.


For everyone's information, DX Engineering is selling the Clifton Labs 
buffer amplifier (but not the specific K2 version that Jack Smith (SK) 
also sold.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/15/2019 12:02 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Good morning,

I have a HupRF PAT tap buffer amp board for my K2's IF. I installed an SMA 
connector on the heatsink panel
when I built the rig.

Looking at the K2's block diagram, the IF is shown between the mixer and 
post-mixer pre-amp. On the schematic,
that appears to be between Z6, pin 2, and C159. My plan is tap the mixer-side 
of C159, then attach the ground
braid to the ground side of R80. Is this the right way to do this?

I've searched this reflector, and the web, and I can't really find anything specific 
using "K2 IF out", etc.

SDR kits' site (they sell G4HUP's kits since Dave passed away), and the HupRF 
site have no instructions for
Elecraft rigs. There are links to installation instructions in the most popular 
Yaekencom radios, but not the K2,
even though they are selling the K2 boards.

Thanks again. 73,

Jim KO5V

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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 RS-232 to USB?

2019-02-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Do NOT connect a standard serial cable or a USB to RS-232 adapter to the 
K2 (KIO2) AUX IO connector.  Note that it is labeled AUX IO and NOT 
RS-232.  It contains internal K2 signals for external Elecraft gear such 
as the KAT100, KRC2 or the XV series transverters.


Build the special K2 to PC cable if you have not done so already, and 
connect it to an RS-232 port on the computer.  If you do not have RS-232 
ports, then you will need a USB to RS-232 adapter.  Those with an FTDI 
chipset such as the Elecraft KUSB work best.  Those with a prolific 
chipset are problematic.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/14/2019 10:08 PM, K2bew wrote:

My computer does not have a 9 pin serial port. I have a 9 pin to USB
prolific cable/adapter that I use to connect my Ten-Tec RX320, that also
has a 9 pin serial port, to the computers USB.
The manual for the KIO2  says you can use a 24 pin to 9 pin adapter, but it
does not mention connecting to USB. Since the cable is so specialized for
the KIO2 to K2 can I connect it with the 9pin to USB prolific cable? I
don't want to short anything out etc...

Thanks and 73,
Tom Bewick, k2bew

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 lost comm with PC

2019-02-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

Download the one on the first page that opens.  I can't recall, but I 
think it is VCP.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/14/2019 12:24 PM, Paul Ecker wrote:
Don - so at the FTDI Chip site they list  VCP, D2XX,D3XX drivers for 
download. What type works with the Elecraft KXUSB ??


Tnx & 73
Paul

On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 10:25 AM Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:


Paul,

I would suggest downloading the FTDI drivers and after installing,
restart the computer.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/14/2019 9:33 AM, Paul Ecker wrote:
> My KAT500 has stopped communicating with my Win 10 PC. I have
tried two
> different KXUSB cables. When connected, neither show up in the
Windows 10
> Device Mgr Ports list. This problem has only occurred in the
last week.
> Prior to that had been working fine. Otherwise KAT is working
fine.Any
> ideas on a remedy?



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 lost comm with PC

2019-02-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

I would suggest downloading the FTDI drivers and after installing, 
restart the computer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/14/2019 9:33 AM, Paul Ecker wrote:

My KAT500 has stopped communicating with my Win 10 PC. I have tried two
different KXUSB cables. When connected, neither show up in the Windows 10
Device Mgr Ports list. This problem has only occurred in the last week.
Prior to that had been working fine. Otherwise KAT is working fine.Any
ideas on a remedy?

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Re: [Elecraft] TRS connectors - Heil Foster adapter

2019-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chuck,

The solution is easy (in my mind).  Just plug the TRS plug into the 
K3/K3S rear panel mic jack.  That jack is a stereo type, but the ring is 
not connected to anything.  No adapter required.


If you want to use the front panel 8 pin Foster jack, you will have to 
build you own adapter.


All microphones that are designed for computer (gaming) use have a TRS 
plug - but the tip and ring are wired together.  That includes the much 
used CM500 headset and many others.  Yes, when used with Heil adapters, 
they will not work because the ring is shorted to the shell.  The Heil 
adapters are designed for mono plugs normally used on the Heil headsets.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2019 9:41 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

I investigated the Heil Foster adapter and the shorted ring-sleeve is inside 
the 1/8 inch phono jack. Not in the easily fixed Foster plug. So it cannot be 
fixed...reasonably. Why short it making the adapter unusable for the excellent 
and reasonably priced gamer headsets?


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 serial interfaces

2019-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Andy,

"Polling" normally refers to a situation like Ethernet and others where 
a response from a particular *addressed* device is requested.
For RS-232, it is "handshaking" (if implemented) telling the DTE when it 
is OK to send data - since there is only one transmitter on an RS-232 
signalling line, there is no need for addressing. The transmitting 
device expects to communicate to only one receiving device on the other 
end (although other receivers can 'listen in'.


I have worked with RS-232 for over 35 years both professionally (both 
modems and DCEs for 20 years) and with ham radio gear and PCs after 
retirement from that life.


If we wish for clear communication, the terms used are important. Ham 
Radio "speak" often confuses the proper engineering terms. You hear of 
ham radio software that "polls" the radio - in reality, it is simply 
issuing a command to the radio and expects a response to that command.  
That is a command/response scenerio, and is not really polling.


Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2019 3:55 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
"I have no idea how your "polling" device works, but with RS-232, 
thereis no polling, "


Point 1 is true. Point 2 is, in my opinion, not true.

A poll is a request for information. The device issuing the 
poll/request is the polling device.   For example, sending IF; to a 
TS-590 is a data request, or poll, for the current IF status.  The 
TS-590 responds with the full IF word.


Andy, k3wyc




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 serial interfaces

2019-02-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Andy,

You are dealing with an RS-232 communications protocol, which is only 
point to point and not multipoint like Ethernet.


I have no idea how your "polling" device works, but with RS-232, there 
is no polling, it is direct "handshaking" between 2 devices, a DTE and a 
DCE.  If handshaking is implemented, Data Terminal Ready, Data Set Ready 
are exchanged, then Request to Send and the Clear To Send Response are 
sent.  That signalling protocol is normally used only by modems.


Most ham applications do not use those handshaking signals, but rely 
only on Transmit Data and Receive Data to establish communications.


For RS-232 there MUST be only one transmitter - there can be multiple 
receivers, but those devices (other than the main one, either the PC or 
the KPA500) can be the transmitter.  It takes some complex hardware 
device to switch an RS-232 bus from one transmitter to another.


This is a hardware consideration and has nothing to do with software 
such as OmniRig.


Consider the RS-232 voltage levels and you will see why there can be 
only one transmitter on a line.  The active level is between +3.5 volts 
and +25 volts while the inactive level can be from -3.5 volts to -25 volts.
Think about what happens when you connect one device producing +25 volts 
directly to the output of another device producing -25 volts!  That is 
why only one transmitter can be used on an RS-232 signal line.


There are several devices that can be used (such as the SteppIR 
controller) in an RS-232 environment, but their configuration must be 
set to only listen to the traffic on the main RS-232 communications 
which is normally the PC and the transceiver.


The S-Box has the transmitters hardware disabled for all but one port - 
that is how it allows multiple devices to listen in on the communications.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/11/2019 3:04 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:


  "The Serial Box<https://bit.ly/S-BOX> (S-BOX) was specifically designed to make it 
easy to connect multiple devices in parallel to any transceiver's serial port, including a PC, 
KPA500, KAT500, KPA1500, SteppIR Controller, Kessler AT-Auto, Shackmaster SM-8, etc. "

My configuration requires one device to be the routine polling device but has 
to allow for another device to break that polling interface and insert 
different commands to the destination equipment.

E.g - 1. OmniRig polls my TS-590 and my TS-590/Elecraft interface listens to the 
responses.  When I want to set the TS-590 power, or initiate a TX Tune, my 
TS-590/Elecraft interface disconnects OmniRig, attaches the local RS232 source, sends the 
power command, then returns control to OmniRig.The supplemental commands are timed to 
only be sent in the "window" where OmniRig is not sending a command.  (It's 
actually a bit more complicated than that because initiating a TX Tune first inhibits the 
amplifier key line then, when key inhibit is confirmed, it initiates TX Tune with a 
specific power setting,  returns TS-590 to receive mode, waits until RX mode is 
confirmed, then re-enables the amplifier key line.)

E.g -2.  The KAT500 utility may be polling my KAT500 but I disconnect it and send the 
KAT500 commands to change L, C, bypass, antenna side, etc.  Again this is is done without 
disrupting KAT500 utility polling as the commands are only sent in the "window" 
between the utility polls.   Depending on an option setting the TS-590/Elecraft interface 
can be the primary KAT500 polling device and the utility is not needed.

Examples 1 and 2 were implemented a while ago and are mature and reliable.  The 
next step is to integrate the KPA500 so OPER/STBY are fully integrated in my 
power control scheme.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S boom mic ensemble options.

2019-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

Have you checked the Elecraft website.  The Heil ProSet-K2 is complete 
and includes the adapter which allows it to be plugged into the 
K2/K3/K3S Front Panel 8 pin mic jack and headphone jack.
Without the adapter, it can be plugged into the K3/K3S rear panel mic 
and phones jacks.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/9/2019 3:53 PM, Brian “VE3BWP” Pietrzyk wrote:

I will soon have a K3S and I’ve been in the market for a boom mic set for the 
shack. This will be my first boom mic. I’ve checked out the Hiel site and could 
not find any complete packages. Everything is sold in too many subassemblies. 
I’ve tried emailing them but no reply. Our local ham store (radioworld.ca) only 
sells in pieces as well.

I’d prefer a tried and tested set ready to go boom mic set for the K3S.

Any recommendations? In this case value (performance and longevity comes ahead 
of price) for me. I plan to keep this station for a long time.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S sending gibberish FSK

2019-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Will,

I answered without reading carefully enough - most questions of that 
sort are about FT8.


With RTTY through a soundcard, you should be using AFSK A mode.  It 
defaults to LSB and my comments about DATA A mode otherwise apply.


If you are keying the FSK pin in the ACC connector, then you can ignore 
the audio levels, but you do need to convert the level to TTL voltage 
levels (+5 volts and ground).  If using that input, the K3 mode should 
be FSK D.


73,
Don W3FPR

---
Will,

Are you using DATA A mode? The normal sideband for DATA A is USB which 
works with most all soundcard data modes.
If you are using USB mode instead, I suggest you change. Using Sideband 
mode for data modes requires you to turn off compression and set the 
equalizers flat - DATA A mode does that for you automatically, leaving 
your sideband mode settings intact.


Do you have any of the audio levels set to an extreme setting? They 
should all be set within mid-range. The application "power" slider, the 
soundcard levels and the K3S Line level are the ones of concern.


Are you driving the K3S with sufficient audio. You should have 4 bars 
solid with the 5th bar flashing on the ALC meter. See my article on that 
subject at my website www.w3fpr.com for a full explanation about setting 
the audio levels for soundcard Data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/9/2019 11:12 AM, William Liporace wrote:

I have a K3s (upgraded K3) and K3S (factory built).
Keying is being done with a MORTTY device. I tested with MMTTY and 
N1MM+/2Tone.


The K3s is working just fine. So I understand the setup. Same 
programs, same setup, but NO ONE can decode the K3S. All I see is 
gibberish in the Window during TX. As far as I can tell, it is setup 
identically. I have gone through the Fred Cady book.


What am I missing?? Suggestions??
TNX Will WC2L


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S sending gibberish FSK

2019-02-09 Thread Don Wilhelm

Will,

Are you using DATA A mode?  The normal sideband for DATA A is USB which 
works with most all soundcard data modes.
If you are using USB mode instead, I suggest you change.  Using Sideband 
mode for data modes requires you to turn off compression and set the 
equalizers flat - DATA A mode does that for you automatically, leaving 
your sideband mode settings intact.


Do you have any of the audio levels set to an extreme setting?  They 
should all be set within mid-range.  The application "power" slider, the 
soundcard levels and the K3S Line level are the ones of concern.


Are you driving the K3S with sufficient audio.  You should have 4 bars 
solid with the 5th bar flashing on the ALC meter.  See my article on 
that subject at my website www.w3fpr.com for a full explanation about 
setting the audio levels for soundcard Data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/9/2019 11:12 AM, William Liporace wrote:

I have a K3s (upgraded K3) and K3S (factory built).
Keying is being done with a MORTTY device. I tested with MMTTY and 
N1MM+/2Tone.


The K3s is working just fine. So I understand the setup. Same programs, 
same setup, but NO ONE can decode the K3S. All I see is gibberish in the 
Window during TX. As far as I can tell, it is setup identically. I have 
gone through the Fred Cady book.


What am I missing?? Suggestions??
TNX Will WC2L


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Re: [Elecraft] Service manual

2019-02-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Richardo,

If you need detail information on the circuits of the K3, download the 
K3 Schematics.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 9:32 AM, Ricardo PY2PT wrote:

Ok. Thanks

Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT | PX2F | 3D2PT | T30PT | T33PT | HH2/PY2PT
py2pt.bra...@gmail.com
http://www.py2pt.com <http://www.py2pt.com/>
@ricrodrigues
VP6D team member (2018)
T33A team member (2013) <http://www.t33a.com/>
8R1PY team member (2012)
T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012) <http://www.mdxc.org/t30py>
TO2FH (Mayotte Island - 2011) team member


Em 8 de fev de 2019, à(s) 12:06, Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> escreveu:



Richardo,

You are looking for something that does not exist.
The Troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual has a lot of 
information about error codes and steps to correct it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 8:35 AM, Ricardo Rodrigues wrote:

Dear Guys,
Hi.
Please, im trying to find the service manual from K3.
Any help?
Regards
Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT | PX2F | 3D2PT | T30PT | T33PT | HH2/PY2PT
py2pt.bra...@gmail.com <mailto:py2pt.bra...@gmail.com>
http://www.py2pt.com <http://www.py2pt.com/>
@ricrodrigues
PX2A Contest Station member
VP6D team member (2018) <http://www.vp6d.com/>
T33A team member (2013) <http://www.t33a.com/>
8R1PY team member (2012)
T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012)
TO2FH team member (Mayotte - 2011)
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Re: [Elecraft] Service manual

2019-02-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Richardo,

You are looking for something that does not exist.
The Troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual has a lot of 
information about error codes and steps to correct it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 8:35 AM, Ricardo Rodrigues wrote:

Dear Guys,

Hi.
Please, im trying to find the service manual from K3.
Any help?



Regards






Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT | PX2F | 3D2PT | T30PT | T33PT | HH2/PY2PT
py2pt.bra...@gmail.com
http://www.py2pt.com <http://www.py2pt.com/>
@ricrodrigues
PX2A Contest Station member
VP6D team member (2018) <http://www.vp6d.com/>
T33A team member (2013) <http://www.t33a.com/>
8R1PY team member (2012)
T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012)
TO2FH team member (Mayotte - 2011)

















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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not faulting

2019-02-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jack,

It would be best to email supp...@elecraft.com

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 7:53 AM, Jack Satterfield wrote:

I accidently sent 200 watts pep to the KPA500 input however it did not fault

on high input power.

Thought I would check here first before calling Elecraft

Jack W4GRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft business practices

2019-02-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lou,

I believe that was an oversight in sales - likely because you also 
ordered a KX2.


I would suggest that you email sa...@elecraft.com to question if not 
charging before shipment is still the standard practice.


The only time I have heard that Elecraft has pre-charged credit cards is 
when they offered first shipment priority on the KPA1500 if they pre-paid.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 7:41 AM, Lou Voerman W2ROW wrote:

Let me start by saying that I am a long term Elecraft customer. I have built
4 K2s and a K1. I also own a K3, K3s, KX3, KX2 and other Elecraft gear. I
helped out for several years as a volunteer in the Elecraft booth at the
RARS hamfest here in Raleigh.

Two recent experiences involving backordered AX1s have left me concerned
because my credit card was charged before Elecraft shipped the product. In
both cases the backorder turned out to be longer than a month. I was not
offered a refund on my credit card until I actually cancelled the orders.
Note this was not a hold of funds on the card, it was an actual charge. In
the first instance the AX1 was part of a larger order which included a KX2.
I was charged for the entire order even though the AX1 did not ship. In the
second instance the AX1 was listed as in stock when I ordered, I was
notified that there was a week delay and then notified the delay was longer.
My credit card was charged on the day the order was received by Elecraft. I
cancelled and am awaiting a refund.

Back in the early days of internet ordering the most important test of a
company's business practices was that they not charge a credit card before
shipment. Amazon is a perfect example of this, they never charge before
shipment. I will allow for some exceptions where I am told in advance that I
am placing a preorder and my card will be charged immediately. Elecraft did
not do this in either case described above.

The bottom line and based on the experiences above, it appears to be
Elecraft policy to charge credit cards before shipment. I am extremely
disappointed with this. Sorry for the long post.

Lou  W2ROW

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100

2019-02-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

Glad to hear that you have it solved.
It is necessary to have all power connections tight.

Yes, check the simple things first.  That is a rabbit hole we all fall 
into at one time or another.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2019 7:41 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Don,

It is all working again!

The power supply's negative terminal was the problem. The terminal wan't 
falling off, but the internal side of the plastic feed-thru washer had cracked, 
and about half fell off inside. That caused it to loosen up slightly. Without 
the KPA hooked up, it supplied the LP-100 with enough current, and it measured 
the correct voltage, so I assumed it was OK, and eliminated it.

I also mentioned that I was having trouble getting the K2 to communicate with a logging 
program, and again, I was convinced that my home-built multi-cable assembly was the 
culprit. It is now working. I replaced the BRAND NEW 6' long DB9 to DB9 serial cable 
(purchased from a "large on-line retailer"), with an old one I bought years ago 
at Radio Shack.

I have a lot of experience that tells me that I should check my work first, but 
now I know not to trust everything else - even if it is new.

Thanks again for your help. 73,

Jim KO5V




-Original Message-

From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Feb 7, 2019 12:22 PM
To: Jim KO5V 
Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

Jim,

That certainly could cause the problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2019 1:50 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Don,

OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder, 
they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the 
bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the 
insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware store and get a 
couple of new washers, but I'll bet that's the problem. It would run my LP100 
when it was the only thing connected, but that draws little current. I just 
assumed the problem was my work - and it may still be! I'll let you know what 
happens after I repair the supply.

Thanks for your patience. 73,

Jim KO5V


-Original Message-

From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Feb 7, 2019 11:00 AM
To: Jim KO5V 
Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

Jim,

All that says the KPA100 should be OK, check the Anderson Power poles
for proper insertion of the contact blades both on your power cable and
on the KPA100.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100

2019-02-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

OK since you have good voltage at the inside of J3, all should be well 
(did I misunderstand you for the side of J3 that you measured?).


The resistance measured at J3 would normally start out at a lower 
resistance and increase as the voltage from the DMM charges C51. If you 
have a strong light shining on the PA transistors, they will produce 
some small voltage.  Shade the PA transistors and try that measurement 
again.


Since you say that D9 is blocking DC to the base K2, then it must be 
installed backwards.  D9 should conduct from the anode to the cathode, 
but not the other way around.  It is there to protect the base K2 (but 
not the KPA100) from reverse polarity.


Check the contacts on J4 - the spring fingers seen through the 
rectangular holes should have snapped into place locking the contacts to 
the housing.  If you do not see the spring fingers through the 
rectangular hole, the contacts have not been properly inserted.


You should also check the Anderson Power Poles.  Look in the end - the 
contact blade should be latched over the spring finger.  If you can see 
both the spring finger and the contact blade, give the contact blade an 
extra push to seat it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2019 10:41 AM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Don,

I finished the amp a few weeks ago. Both the amp and the KAT100 in the EC2 have 
been working as they should, and I've made many QSOs, many with transmit times 
long enough to cause the fan to switch to the high-speed.

When I started looking for this problem, I found the transistor mounting screws 
loose (Forgot to check them!). After I tightened them up, the amp passed the 
resistance checks in the manual.

J3 is correct, I checked the K2's supply voltage at the cathode-end of D9, and 
measured +12V. It is then blocked by D9.

When I measured the KPA's power supply's no-load voltage it was at the Power 
Pole end of the cable, so the fuse and cable should be good. When the power 
supply is connected to the KPA, I measure 1.5V across J3.

Measuring between ground and J3+, I see a momentary continuity indication. On a 
higher resistance scale, the resistance started at at >10k ohms, then reduced, 
eventually going through zero, and then back up to a very high resistance. It 
looks like the meter might be charging a capacitor (C83?).

I'll check all of the soldering, and the 12PA points.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100

2019-02-07 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

Is this KPA100 newly assembled? Or did it work beefore?

Your KPA100 D9 and D10 diode measurements seem to be normal.

Check the orientation of all diodes against the parts placement diagram 
in the back of the manual.


It would appear that you have a short on the 12 volt supply input of the 
KPA100 - due to a solder splash or some other problem.


Look at all points that are labeled 12PA in the schematic.
Your ohmmeter from ground to the + terminal of J3 should show the short.
Any chance that you have assembled J3 backwards?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/6/2019 4:59 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Hi Don,

I got the following results:

1. Base K2 seems to be OK.

2. The KPA100 is upside down next to the K2, and everything is powered through 
the K2 and its power supply. Using the LP-100 and 50ohm dummy load, the 5W and 
10W measurements through the KPA100 check out nominally.

3. When I apply power through the KPA100's power port, and using its power 
supply, the K2 and KPA100 are dead. The power supply measures about 1.8V when 
plugged into the KPA100, but ~13.5V with no load.

4. As I mentioned below, I previously checked D9 and D10 and Q5. D10 and Q5 
were OK, but I didn't really understand what I saw when I checked D9. From my 
first post:

"I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked 
weird - In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it 
in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but 
it's open in the other. It might be OK?"




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Re: [Elecraft] Using SunSDR2 pro with KPA500

2019-02-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Stephen,

What is needed is a KeyOut from the driving transceiver - that is an 
output which is grounded when the driving transceiver goes to transmit.
The KPA500 will frequency sense if it receives a short burst of RF, so 
the band data is not necessary, just connect the transverter and 
amplifier in the Basic Configuration.


You will have to consult with the SDR transceiver folks to see if there 
is a KeyOut connector (I did not see one when I looked a some of the 
ads).  Without that, the SunSDR2 cannot key any amplifier.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/5/2019 1:15 PM, Stephen Prior wrote:

Does anyone have any experience of fully interfacing this SDR with the
KPA500 please?  I confess to be rather confused.  I am looking to configure
the Ext Ctrl tables with the BCD values that the KPA500 requires for band
switching etc.  I understand what BCD is, but in this context I'm confused
as to how to define it in the SDR's setup.

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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

There is very little change in current for the low level stages between 
receive and transmit, but the RF amplifier stages Q5 thru Q8 draw more 
current in transmit.


Have you checked your power supply to make sure it is not producing 
ripple or low voltage during transmit.  A low power supply voltage will 
increase the IMD significantly.
Check the power supply connections as well.  Monitor the voltage the K2 
sees during transmit by using the K2 display function rather than 
measuring the power supply voltage directly.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/5/2019 6:26 AM, mustang65 wrote:

Don,

I forgott to mention that I do not have the k60xv option but that hade been
a nice way
to rule out the powerstage.

  I wonder   can there be any circuit that draws more current in Tx then Rx
and causing rippel on the
dc voltage during tx but not rx due to a cap that has lost capacitans?

Have replaced all el. caps. on the ksb2 board but not any on the other
boards.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100

2019-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

My usual procedure when tackling a problem of that nature is to first 
isolate the problem to one component.

You have already apparently checked out the base K2.

Next, remove the top cover from the base K2 and connect the KPA100 to it 
(remove the KPA100 from the EC2 enclosure).
Put the KPA100 upside down on a box or book about 1/2 the height of the 
K2 and plug the cables into the K2.


Then test with an external wattmeter and a dummy load connected to the 
KPA100 SO-239 antenna jack.


First power the base K2 from the 2.1mm coaxial power jack.  Check at 5 
watts and at 10 watts - this checks the transmit path through the KPA100 
in QRP mode.  Use an external wattmeter and a dummy load.  Does the 
external wattmeter agree roughly with the K2 display indication and the 
power knob setting.


If you have a much higher actual power level on the external wattmeter, 
the KPA100 wattmeter diodes D16 and D17 are the first suspects - replace 
them.


If all is well so far, remove the 2.1mm power plug and power the 
assembly with the APP connector on the KPA100.  Make the same test.


After that, check the bias on the KPA100 for a 400ma rise in current 
with the K2 set to CW and in CW TEST mode.  Hold the mode button until 
TEST appears in the LCD, and the CW icon will blink.


Do a tune and check that the current rise from receive to TUNE is 400ma.

Then set the power to 50 watts and do a TUNE.  Read the actual power on 
the external wattmeter.  With a TUNE, it should be about 20 watts.


If it is greater, you have a problem with the KPA100 wattmeter - likely 
diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged and need to be replaced.


More troubleshooting is possible, but that is a good starting point.
If all goes well with those tests, then I can tell you how to check the 
KAT100 alone (without the KPA100).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 10:13 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

I tried to tune the KPA/KAT100, and the SWR went to red. I quickly exited 
'tune', checked all of the connections, and the antenna, and tried again. Same 
result, except before I could take it out of tune (it was tuning maybe 2-3 
seconds), all of the KPA/KAT100 lights went out. The K2 was fine. I took the 
amp off of the EC2 and installed it directly on the K2. When I powered on the 
the K2, using its low-current supply, the K2 came up normal, and didn't 
recognize the amp. The base K2 seems OK, and transmitted into my dummy load, 
and could hear the NGEN. When I powered it through the KPA's high-current 
supply, the K2 was dead. The base K2 again came back to life when I removed the 
KAT's power, and went back to the base K2's supply.

I measured the 12V supply when plugged into the KAT100, and I get between 1V 
and 2V - the PS must be protecting itself - it looks like there's a short...

Earlier today, I had been trying to get my computer to talk to the K2 through a logging 
program. After I built the rig, I tested my cables and the KIO2 by successfully controlling 
the K2 with 'K2 Remote', so it was working. Today, the logging software would poll the K2, and 
get no response. 'K2 Remote" couldn't see the rig either. The DB9 connector that connects 
to the KIO2 has the cables to the KPA/KAT and serial cable, and I made sure the computer's 
connector was wired correctly for interfacing a "normal" serial cable to the KIO2. 
It all worked.

I looked at the KPA schematic, and thought a diode, or something in the current sensing 
circuit might have failed. I removed Q5, and it tests just like my new spare. I lifted 
one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird 
- but I don't really understand that device; In "diode" mode, I get .150V in 
one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 
80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It 
might be OK? I hope I didn't kill U7.

I performed the resistance tests in the KPA manual, and they are nominal. Q1 
and Q2 test OK, and I think Q3 and Q4 are OK. Q3 tests differently than Q4, but 
looking at the schematic, I think what I see makes sense.

It also occurred to me that when I was trying to get the logging program to 
work, I might have caused a failure in my cables while I was hooking and 
unhooking the serial connection. That might have caused a communication problem 
that made the amp go a bit nuts.

Sorry for the long message. ANY suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

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Re: [Elecraft] Purchased from a SK a K3

2019-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

When you need to send it in for repair, email supp...@elecraft.com 
asking that an RSA be issued.

Explain that you bought it used.
You should also include your K3 serial number and your contact 
information in that same email.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 2:13 PM, 1lasportsman 1lasportsman wrote:

Don
Where do I do that?
On February 3, 2019 at 1:09 PM Don Wilhelm <mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com>> wrote:



Bill,

There is not any requirement to register it with Elecraft.

However, if you need to send the K3 for service, you will want to make
sure that serial number is updated with your contact information.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 1:52 PM, Bill wrote:

Do I need to register with Elecraft a purchase of a used K3.
IF I need to please tell me where to register it at, looked on 
website and did not see where.

Thanks
Bill
WF9M

Sent from Mail for Windows 10



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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

Of some concern is the heating of Q6 - but I don't think it is 
unreasonable if you can still hold your finger on it.


Hint for troubleshooting.  *IF* the problem is in the RF amplification 
chain (Q5 thru Q8) then it should appear in TUNE as well as in SSB.
I would suggest that you measure the DC voltages for Q5 thru Q8 after 
the K2 has been idle for some time, and then after some period of 
operation after which the distortion could be expected to begin.


One thing you might want to try is to measure the resistance from the Q6 
emitter to ground before distortion begins and after it starts.  It 
should be 1.5 ohms (so use a low resistance scale).  If it changes, 
consider replacing R50, but also be aware that there may be something 
causing the voltage on the base of Q6 to change as well.


If your Q6 is a 2sc5739 instead of a 2SC2166 (the 2SC5739 has a plastic 
tab instead of the metal tab on the 2SC2166), then change RF Board R46 
to 330 ohms.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 1:26 AM, mustang65 wrote:

Don,

I have done some measuring on the powerstage.
dc voltage during tuning is 14,1 v
Bias Q7 is 0,652v when tuning.
U1 pin6 43mV on ssb transmitting.
I get about 10w max output (do not have a bird)

all measuring was done with a fluke 179.

Q6 gets mutch varmer then Q7,Q8 is this normal?

The strange thing that is confusing me is when the k2 has been turned of
over the night
there is almost no distorsion when I start to transmitt .
then it slowly arrives in the first couple of minutes.

73 Mike sm3xgm

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Re: [Elecraft] Purchased from a SK a K3

2019-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

There is not any requirement to register it with Elecraft.

However, if you need to send the K3 for service, you will want to make 
sure that serial number is updated with your contact information.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 1:52 PM, Bill wrote:

Do I need to register with Elecraft a purchase of a used K3.
IF I need to please tell me where to register it at, looked on website and did 
not see where.
Thanks
Bill
WF9M

Sent from Mail for Windows 10



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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

Is there any chance you have the K60XV option in that K2?
If so, you can set split the transmit path into 2 pieces because the 
Transverter output takes its output from just after the bandpass filters 
- i.e. - it does not use the Q5, Q6, Q7 and Q8 stages.


Set up for a transverter band operation with the output in the range of 
1 mV - It should not matter which is the IF band.


Monitor the output at the Transverter output to check for distortion.
If present, the problem is in the RF Chain before it reaches the 
amplifier stages.

If it is clean there, look at the RF Chain after the bandpass filters.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 1:26 AM, mustang65 wrote:

Don,

I have done some measuring on the powerstage.
dc voltage during tuning is 14,1 v
Bias Q7 is 0,652v when tuning.
U1 pin6 43mV on ssb transmitting.
I get about 10w max output (do not have a bird)

all measuring was done with a fluke 179.

Q6 gets mutch varmer then Q7,Q8 is this normal?

The strange thing that is confusing me is when the k2 has been turned of
over the night
there is almost no distorsion when I start to transmitt .
then it slowly arrives in the first couple of minutes.

73 Mike sm3xgm

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Re: [Elecraft] Malfunction of the Keys at the K3 Front Panel after Firmware update

2019-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

Do you have a saved configuration file from when it worked right?
If so, you can do a "Parameter Initialization" as described on page 66 
of the manual, then Restore the configuration


Even without a saved configuration, you can try doing a "Save 
Configuration" now so you can restore it after the initialization.


If neither is workable, then write down the menu settings so you can 
restore them manually.


Should all that fail, Elecraft may have to original factory 
configuration file.  Ask by emailing supp...@elecraft.com with the 
serial number and original owner's name and callsign.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/2/2019 3:54 PM, Chris_DL2MDU wrote:

I had a K3 SN 1115 on my table. After update the firmware to 5.66 there was
an issue with the Front Panel.
Keys did not work (MENU, SHIFT-LO). Other Keys have changed (NR was on
RX_ANT)
I used an earlier version (5.35) without success.

73 Chris, DL2MDU

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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

It may not be the KSB2 board after all.  It could be a problem with the 
base K2 PA stage.


With the KPA100 fully removed, what is the maximum power output?  Also, 
what is the DC voltage during transmit as measured by the K2 meter (tap 
DISPLAY to see the voltage), then transmit.
A higher voltage will keep the IMD low.  Use no lower than 12 volts for 
best results, 13.8 is preferred.


Do a TUNE and measure the DC voltage on the base of either Q7 or Q8.  If 
it is outside the range of 0.60 to 0.64 volts, there is a problem.  Also 
note that there is a /CLASS AB signal that also affects bias for SSB. 
Go to transmit (not TUNE) in SSB and make certain pin 6 of RF Board U1 
goes to zero.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/2/2019 3:28 PM, mustang65 wrote:

Thanks for answers.
The symetrix output impedance is 200 ohm and it is recommended to not load
it
lower then 600 ohms.
I lifted the plus side of c20 and  connected a 10k resistor to ground.
I connected the signal from the symetrix output to the plus side of c20.
This way the signal comes direct to ne602 and u3 is not involved.

The distortion is still the same and no difference what signallevel
I put out from the symetrix. from a very low level until a 3 bars of
alc reading. I am still listening to the Lf signal from the symetrix just to
be shure
it is no clipping from the unit.

I know this is not the way to drive the k2 just trying to find a way to see
if U3 is the problem.

The microphone I drive the symetrix is a shure sm58 and I also
use a icom hm12 that i put direct in to the K2.
The first 6 years I  used the Icom microphone then  the last 8
years I used the symetrix and Shure sm58 that improved the audio.

73 Mike sm3xgm

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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

Notice that U2 also has an output that is involved in PTT and VOX 
detection via U4 and the COMP OUT signal.
The signal at the output side of C31 is driving an impedance of about 8k 
ohms.  I don't know what your Symetrix mic amplifier is capable of driving.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/2/2019 1:55 PM, mustang65 wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the suggestions.
I am thinking of putting the outputsignal from the symetrix 528e microphone
amplifier
  to c20 on the ksb2 board so I will bypass U3 and let the signal go direct
to u5 NE602
and that way found out if u2 is bad.
I will come back with the result.

73 Mike sm3xgm




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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

With RF and microphone out of the way, I would look to either coupling 
capacitors in the AF path (C20, C32, and C34) or the Speech Compressor 
IC for the problem.


Unfortunately, the '2165 speech processor IC is no longer available - 
the KSB2 was redesigned to use the '2166 IC instead, but it is not a 
drop-in replacement, and if that turns out to be the problem, it means 
buying a new KSB2 board.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/2/2019 10:07 AM, mustang65 wrote:
  
   Many thanks for the answer and good to know that I can rule out the filter

as the problem.

   I have not change anything in my setup that I used for severel years and
that is main reasen
   I believe something has happend to the k2.

   All the tests I done so far has bean made in to a dummyload and a icom 735
as receiver.

   I use a shure sm58 microphone that is connected to symetrix 528e micpreamp
, voiceprocessor that
   drives the k2. I also have a Icom microphone that I connect directly to
the K2 and it do not make
   any difference on the distorsion. Both this setups have worked nice for
many years.

   If I use the icom 735 as transmitter and k2 as receiver it still works
fine both with the icom  microphone or the symetrix unit and shure
microphone.
   
   The strange thing is when the k2 has been turned of for a couple of hours

and then
   start to transmit the tx audio is mutch better then it comes like you
slowly turn upp a pot
   the audio gets thinner and the distortion increases.

  I monitor the driving signal from the symetrix unit at the same time to
rule out that as a cause.
  Looked for cold soldering on the ssb bord.

  I have also looked for any components to get varm and so far it is just Q6
on the RF board that gets
  araond 122 degrees Fahrenheit that do not seems like a problem.


  I have meassured D1 and D14 and looks ok. Can Q2 on the ksb2 board cause
this problem?

  73 Mike sm3xgm

  

   







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Re: [Elecraft] Tx distortion

2019-02-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
If the filter is OK in receive, it will also be good in transmit.  The 
only things which differ are diodes D4 and D14 on the KSB2 board.


I would look for one of 2 things - RF Feedback and a bad microphone.

To check for RF Feedback, operate the K2 into a dummy load and listen 
with a monitor receiver using a wire for an antenna placed near enough 
to the dummy load to obtain an S-9 signal in CW.


To check for a bad microphone, the best way is to substitute another mic 
of the same kind.


A question - did you change from an Elecraft microphone to something 
else?  If that 'new' mic is a dynamic type, did you remove the bias 
resistor?  If the bias resistor is left in and a dynamic mic is used, 
the bias voltage will drive the mic diaphram off center causing it to 
"sound funny".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/1/2019 11:13 AM, mustang65 wrote:

Hi!

I have hade my k2 about 14 years with number 4503 and it been a pleasure to
build and operate it
but now I got problems with distorsion on the TX audio.

It will usully work  fine when it been resting over the night but after a
while the distorsion slowly comes.
I t start with the base in the audio are reduced and then the treble are
cracking up. It sounds like you driving a audioamplifier just  alittle to
hard.
The problem is the same with thek2/100 or when it removed from the k2.

I have used a 2 tone signalgenerator and loked with a scope att the signal
after the ne602 and after the 10w amplifier
and it looks fine to me but the bandwith of the scope is just 15Mhz so I
might be missing something.

I have replaced u5, Q1, D2and some capacitors on the ksb2 board, tried to
find any bad soldering but no luck.
Can it be a bad capicotor in the  ssb filter or in the Tx signal path?

Grateful for any advise.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 modification

2019-01-31 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

Since your KX2 is less than SN 866, I would recommend that you install 
it.  See 
https://ftp.elecraft.com/KX2/Mod%20Notes%20Alerts/E740304%20Inst,%20mod%20kit%20KX2,%20harm%20supp,%20rev%20B.pdf.


Anyone who orders a replacement or aftermarket end panel (no matter the 
serial number) should also install this change.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/31/2019 3:26 PM, IK4EWX wrote:

I own KX2 serial number 749. I see that on higher serieal numbers KX2
Elecraft have introduced a modifications for reducing spurious on tx (and
improve thermal dissipations it seem to me). What do you think about it? Is
itreally a good think to pay for the modification or can I make without it?
Many thanks.
Ian IK4EWX




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Re: [Elecraft] K2: A couple of minor issues

2019-01-30 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

The K2 will sometimes display the Power or Speed when the VFO is turned. 
 It does not happen frequently, but does show up when the MCU is busy 
doing "its" thing.  It only comes on for an instant and only 
occasionally.  So conclude that "it just does that" and ignore it, there 
is nothing wrong.


As for the high frequency hiss on SSB filters FL2 to FL4, look carefully 
at the width of those filters using Spectrogram.  Adjust the filter 
width of FL2 to be about 200 Hz less than FL1, FL3 200 Hz less than FL2, 
etc.


For many K2s, the filter width displayed by the K2 is much greater than 
the displayed width.


Set the filter widths using LSB mode - first set the low frequency end 
of the filter between 300 and 500 Hz.  Then reference the high frequency 
end of FL1 (the OP1 filter).  Place a Spectrogram marker 200 Hz below 
the high frequency end of FL1 (the frequency of the cursor is displayed 
in the panels at the bottom of the Spectrogram display).  Adjust FL2 
high frequency end to place the "corner" at the marker.  Set a marker 
200 Hz lower and do the same with FL3 - similar for FL4.


Now, switch to USB and adjust the BFO settings to place the filter 
passbands properly (low frequency end between 300 and 500 Hz).


That should produce good filters without as much high frequency hiss.

The K2 audio amplifier is by design "wimpy" to reduce current draw for 
those operating portable on batteries.  An amplified speaker should be 
able to make up for that low audio.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/30/2019 7:02 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

Good evening,

I have been enjoying my newly-built "K2 twins" over the last few weeks (K2 
#7225), but so far, only on 20M and 17M - there's been no propagation on the higher 
bands, and I'm currently antenna-challenged on 30M and down. I measure full power out 
from the KPA100 with my LP-100, and the KAT100 works well into a fairly marginal antenna. 
I'm getting good audio reports using the MH2 mic.

1. Four times, I've seen the LCD go into the "power adjustment" screen just as I start to 
adjust the frequency. As I continue to turn the knob, the display goes immediately back to 
frequency. I'm using an after-market CNC'd aluminum knob with a "bearinged" dimple. It's 
the same diameter as the stock knob, but a bit heavier, and it is just rubbing the felt washer. I 
wondered the first time this happened if this was maybe a static discharge as I touched the knob, 
but I didn't feel or hear anything. The last couple of times, I thought it might be a mechanical 
issue due to the interference of the encoder and front-panel board(s). Any ideas?

2. I set the filters with the N-Gen and Spectrogram, using the instructions on 
Don's website. The filters work as I expect them to, but at times there is a 
loud, high-frequency hiss on SSB filters 2-4 that is rather annoying. Can I 
just play with the position of the signal in each pass-band to help this, or is 
there something else I should look at? The signal I want to hear is audible in 
all four filters, so I think they're set properly - I just want to improve them 
if I can.

3. I am using an external, amplified speaker, made for mobile use, because the K2's audio 
seems a bit low. Is this normal? This solution is fine with me; I just want to 
"hear" what other folks have experienced.

Thanks in advance,

73, Jim KO5V


  


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Re: [Elecraft] Duty on warranty repairs

2019-01-30 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike,

I am not in Canada, but I have done warranty repairs here in the US for 
Canadian customers in the past.  As far as I know, no duty or HST was 
charged to the recipient.


The only time I got a report of charges was when a Canadian ham bought a 
K2 from a ham in the US, and that seller shipped direct to me for 
checkover, alignment and calibration.  The buyer reported that he was 
asked to pay customs fees.  My guess is that he should have because that 
was the first time the radio had entered Canada.


Just my experience from this side of the border.  Other Canadian hams 
may have something different to say.


One thing I can say is that you should ship via the postal system rather 
than UPS or FedEX.  Both those charge a "brokerage fee" which may be 
substantial.  Elecraft will have to charge you for any brokerage fees 
that may be encountered.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/30/2019 4:27 PM, Mike Weir wrote:

Good afternoon, has any Canadian Elecrafters sent a rig to Elecraft for 
warranty repairs and if so when the radio was return were you charged any duty 
or HST taxes as it crossed over the boarder? I may be sending a rig down and 
was just wondering what cross boarder experience was of those who have sent a 
rig to Elecraft for warranty repairs?
Thanks in advance
Mike
VE3WDM

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Re: [Elecraft] Best Mac to use with KX3

2019-01-30 Thread Don Wilhelm

Kiichiro-san,

John is correct.  Band boundaries are not field programmable.  You may 
have to ship the K3 to Watsonville, CA to have the 60 meter band limited 
to non-transmit.
There is a chance that it can be done by Elecraft's distributor in 
Japan, but I don't know that for certain.


Send email to supp...@elecraft.com for assistance.

If this is a K3 that you bought from another ham, I would net expect 60 
meters to be disabled unless that ham is also located in Japan.  That 
serial number indicates that it was produced before the introduction of 
the K3S.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/29/2019 4:18 PM, John Stengrevics wrote:

Kiichiro-san,

Please contact Elecraft support:  supp...@elecraft.com 
<mailto:supp...@elecraft.com>

73,

John
WA1EAZ


On Jan 29, 2019, at 3:45 PM, Keith Onishi  wrote:

Hello,

I am Kiichiro Onishi, JH3SIF, having K3 with SN 07902.

I hoped my K3 had been shipped with 60m transmission disabled since my KX3 was 
shipped with 60m transmission disabled and your signed certification indicating 
the disablement.
As you may know, hams operating in JA are not allowed to transmit on 60m and 
all TX/TRX MUST not be capable to transmit on the band,
So, my K3 MUST have 60m transmission capability disabled so that I can have 
regal permission to operate my K3 in JA.
Can you help me to disable the 60m transmission?

73 de JH3SIF, Kiichiro


2019/01/28 2:08、Steve Grimaud (Gmail) mailto:steve.grim...@gmail.com>>のメール:

I'm trying to find a good new or used Macbook or Mac mini to begin using with 
my KX3. I had used a PC with ASUS Xonar U7 and/or Signalink USB. What will I 
need to keep, drop or use in a different way to get a Mac unit working with my 
KX3? I'm especially interested in digital signals. Who here knows what works 
best.

73

Steve w3swg

--
Steve Grimaud
steve.grim...@gmail.com
240-753-5380

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Rev C errata Rev. C-5, correct version?

2019-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Casey,

You need only the latest errata sheet.  Earlier errata is included in 
the latest one.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/29/2019 4:28 PM, TI2/NA7U wrote:

I have a new KPA100 kit, everything still in the box, with assembly manual
Appendix G, Rev C, Feb. 11, 2004 and a single errata sheet for that with
notation Rev. C-5, July 20, 2005.

Is that the only errata sheet I need or are there intervening/subsequent
ones too? I ran through the errata and they certainly match up to the manual
...

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Re: [Elecraft] CM500 Mic ?

2019-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

While I have seen ads saying it has a dynamic element, that is not the 
case - it is an electret type.


I believe it was designed to be a microphone you could plug into a 
computer, and all of those are electret types.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/28/2019 2:26 PM, Paul Ecker wrote:

Does anyone know if the CM500 has a Electret or Dynamic mic?


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Re: [Elecraft] Last Click Serial Port

2019-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mike and all,

That is my experience with RJ45 plugs as well.  Rather than just pushing 
on the 'boot', it is helpful to pull the boot back a bit and push on the 
connector body itself, then slide the boot back in place.  That is true 
not only for the K3S RJ-45 connector, but any RJ-45 in my wired ethernet 
network.  Listen for that final click.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/27/2019 10:00 AM, Mike Greenway wrote:

Since I have incurred a situation at lest 3 times on my K3S, since it might 
help someone I thought I would share some info.  On occasion I need to un-cable 
the K3S when working an something and like a fool thinking when I put it all 
back together it is going to work first time.  I do have everything labeled so 
I do get everything into the right connector.  The problem I have had to arise 
several times, once everything is ready to check the, the RS232 serial port 
will not communicate.

After a lot of work each time it has turned out to be that the RJ45 connector 
for the RS232 jack, even though what appeared to be fully plugged in, pushing 
on it there would be a faint “click” signifying it is truly fully seated.  From 
where I thought I had it fully plugged in to actually being full could not have 
been a 64th of an inch if that. Not even sure if there is any further travel I 
just hear the faint click.  So if you use the RJ45, even though the RJ45 
appears to be in fully, if you have com port communication problems to your 
computer or cant talk to your P3, see if you hear that faint “last click” in 
the RJ45.  It is not just my particular K3S, I have seen the same situation on 
a second one.  73 Mike K4PI

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Re: [Elecraft] Best Mac to use with KX3

2019-01-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

The only software application specifically for the KX3 is KX3 Utility 
which takes very little of the computer resources.


Perhaps a better question is -- "What processing capability is required 
for the software applications that I want to run?"


That will determine how powerful a computer you will need - Mac or other OS.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/27/2019 12:08 PM, Steve Grimaud (Gmail) wrote:
I'm trying to find a good new or used Macbook or Mac mini to begin using 
with my KX3. I had used a PC with ASUS Xonar U7 and/or Signalink USB. 
What will I need to keep, drop or use in a different way to get a Mac 
unit working with my KX3? I'm especially interested in digital signals. 
Who here knows what works best.



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Re: [Elecraft] Latest Elecraft NEWS

2019-01-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jan,

The HW-16 was a crystal controlled transmitter only - no receive capability.

Yes, there was a time when transceivers did not exist, and many 
transmitters did not come with a VFO.  Many VFOs were external to the 
transmitter.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/25/2019 4:35 PM, Jan wrote:
Err, WAYNE  - - there is some question as to the contents of the latest 
E-NEWS  


You write: armed with a dozen or so crusty FT-243 crystals for my Heath 
HW-16  (Away from "where" was a poorly answered question, as my 
Hallicrafters receiver dial wasn't exactly digital.)


QUESTION: Did your Heathkit HW-16 not have a tune-able receiver? So, why 
the Hallicrafters mention ??


Then you continue with:   Fortunately I soon acquired an outboard VFO, a 
life-changing addition to my station. Jealous friends doubled up on 
their paper routes to pay for their own. Girls suddenly paid more 
attention to me.


QUESTION: What do an outboard VFO  and  ... /Girls suddenly paid more 
attention to me/.   have to do with CW??


Nice write-up about CW Spotting

Cheers, Jan K1ND

 I've read many a paper in my role as a professor ;-)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bricked HELP!!

2019-01-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

That is sometimes required, but not always.
Only if the K3S or K3 with the KIO3B does not respond to the USB 
connection, then that can be used as a last resort.


Often the problem is simply that the computer does not clearly identify 
the COM port associated with the K3 USB connection.  If that is the 
problem, I can help with identifying the proper COM port to put into K3 
Utility.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/24/2019 3:41 PM, RIchard Williams wrote:

Bob,

If you are trying to use the USB port after a failed firmware update,  
 you need to either use the RS-232 port or take  the top cover off and 
the change the little switch on the board (can't remember the name of 
it)  the USB and RS 232 ports are on to USB position.  The you can use 
the USB port for a forced download. After you are done, move the 
switch back to the other position.


Dick, K8ZTT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 13:34, Don Wilhelm
 wrote:
Bob,

Since you had an ERR PTT indication in the midst of all this,
unplug all
cables except the USB cable and the Power Cable.  Connect ANT1 to a
dummy load.

Then open K3 Utility and open its Help file.  Look for "Force a
Firmware
Download" and follow those instructions (the instructions are also in
the manual).

After you are again up and running, plug each of your cables in
one at a
time and recycle power after each cable.  If you see an ERR PTT,
investigate that cable.  It could be as simple as a closed paddle
or key
contact, or a mic cable that has PTT stuck on.  Or it could be more
complicated depending on what else you have in your station.

ERR PTT means that either a key or a mic PTT closure was detected
when
    the K3 was turned on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/24/2019 3:03 PM, Bob DeHaney wrote:
> Trouble started with no reception on 14 or 24 mHz. Reloaded
configuration file which got reception back, but had a continuous
ERR PTT.  Attempted a complete firmware reload.  K3 hung at MCU LD
with all buttons inoperative. I then tried the recovery procedure
in the K3 Utility Help section.  The K3 comes on without
backlight, and transmit blinking and MCU LD in the display.  The
K3 Utility cannot open the port.  I’m stuck.  This K3 has all K3S
upgrades including USB, etc. I have also tried rebooting the
computer with and without USB connected.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bricked HELP!!

2019-01-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Since you had an ERR PTT indication in the midst of all this, unplug all 
cables except the USB cable and the Power Cable.  Connect ANT1 to a 
dummy load.


Then open K3 Utility and open its Help file.  Look for "Force a Firmware 
Download" and follow those instructions (the instructions are also in 
the manual).


After you are again up and running, plug each of your cables in one at a 
time and recycle power after each cable.  If you see an ERR PTT, 
investigate that cable.  It could be as simple as a closed paddle or key 
contact, or a mic cable that has PTT stuck on.  Or it could be more 
complicated depending on what else you have in your station.


ERR PTT means that either a key or a mic PTT closure was detected when 
the K3 was turned on.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/24/2019 3:03 PM, Bob DeHaney wrote:

Trouble started with no reception on 14 or 24 mHz.  Reloaded configuration file 
which got reception back, but had a continuous ERR PTT.  Attempted a complete 
firmware reload.  K3 hung at MCU LD with all buttons inoperative.  I then tried 
the recovery procedure in the K3 Utility Help section.  The K3 comes on without 
backlight, and transmit blinking and MCU LD in the display.  The K3 Utility 
cannot open the port.  I’m stuck.  This K3 has all K3S upgrades including USB, 
etc. I have also tried rebooting the computer with and without USB connected.

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Re: [Elecraft] Auto-spot, tuning aids, and the arcane history of CW pitch-matching

2019-01-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

Put the external reference oscillator input option on your K3 and avoid 
that situation with an external 10 MHz reference oscillator.


The K3 Reference Oscillator temperature steering is from the static 
temperature offsets.  If you have equipment to do better than the Data 
Sheet, you can determine your own values, but for those without that 
equipment, the data sheet provides a good index for various temperatures.


73,
Don W3FPR



Yes.  I'm a stickler for accuracy.  It always bothered me that the
so-called 'temperature compensated' LO in the K3 was not actively being
steered by temperature compensation (i.e. I could only put static
temperature offsets into the rig memory from the data sheet that came
with the oscillator). That was a 'feature' that was never released. At
HF frequencies, it was only an annoyance, but using UHF transverters,
the error compounds (I'm using a crystal oven in my UHF transverter, but
the lack of one in the K3 caused drifting).

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KAT3 High SWR Issue Solved

2019-01-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

I am not certain when they stopped installing the trap in the KAT3, but 
I know it is not in the KAT3A.


If you pull your KAT3 out for any reason, eliminate the trap.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/23/2019 2:07 PM, Mark Musick wrote:

Don,
Is the trap in all KAT3s up through those installed in K3s with 9000 or just 
the early K3s below some serial number?

Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2019 18:48
To: K9MA ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KAT3 High SWR Issue Solved

Scott,

It was added to the initial K3s, but later found not to be necessary, and if 
the trap broke down, it would cause trouble.  So the KAR3A does not have it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/23/2019 10:49 AM, K9MA wrote:

On 1/23/2019 09:41, Ed G wrote:

A fair amount of digging in the email archives found a couple posts
which touched on an issue with the 8.215 MHz trap (C10 and L10) on
the
KAT3 tuner board.

Although my older K3 doesn't seem to have a problem, I wonder why that
trap was not required in the KAT3A. It was there, presumably to
improve IF rejection, so I'd expect removing it without some other
change to the
K3 would be unwise.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KAT3 High SWR Issue Solved

2019-01-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

It was added to the initial K3s, but later found not to be necessary, 
and if the trap broke down, it would cause trouble.  So the KAR3A does 
not have it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/23/2019 10:49 AM, K9MA wrote:

On 1/23/2019 09:41, Ed G wrote:
A fair amount of digging in the email archives found a couple posts 
which touched on an issue with the 8.215 MHz trap (C10 and L10) on the 
KAT3 tuner board.


Although my older K3 doesn't seem to have a problem, I wonder why that 
trap was not required in the KAT3A. It was there, presumably to improve 
IF rejection, so I'd expect removing it without some other change to the 
K3 would be unwise.



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Re: [Elecraft] Auto-spot, tuning aids, and the arcane history of CW pitch-matching

2019-01-22 Thread Don Wilhelm
In that era, SSB capable transceivers often offset the BFO by using a 
different BFO crystal for CW transmit or CW receive - but that technique 
slaved you to one sideband and one CW pitch.
There were other ways of doing the offset as well, but it was usually 
done by shifting the BFO frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/22/2019 1:54 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK wrote:

The transceive problem didn't seem to exist on any older non-synthesized
transceiver that I have used, including FT-101 series, TS-520/820 and
later, KW Electronics KW-2000E.  these were all '70s era transceivers.

--
73 Chris Cox, N0UK, G4JEC
chr...@chris.org

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

2019-01-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

My real advantage is that I no longer have to read in detail to follow 
the assembly steps, but if you are doing it for the first time, do read 
carefully and completely as you are working.  My first one (Field Test) 
took me 34 hours.  There is no shame in taking 60 hours or more to build 
a K2 - proceed at your own comfortable pace, it is not a race, and going 
faster often leads to extended troubleshooting or an expensive repair 
because of build errors.


I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors.  It has gotten bad 
enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. 
I will be continuing to provide support on this reflector.


Yes, it is a part of getting older!

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2019 6:24 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

I think so.  Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 
hours.  But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and 
skills.  We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed 
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's.  Such is aging.


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

2019-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bruce,

Yes, build the K2 first - there is a point where the manual tells you 
that you can add such things as the Front Panel components for the KSB2, 
and headers for other options.  Do NOT attempt to add parts of the K60XV 
option until you have finished building and testing the basic K2.


There are not really many parts to remove - C167 for the KSB2 plus 2 
jumpers (which can be cut if you prefer.  For the K160RX only a jumper 
removal and the addition of 3 capacitors.  For the KNB2, one jumper and 
remove 3 resistors.  The KAF2 requires only 2 jumpers to be removed 
(those cannot be cut), and the K60XV requires only the removal and 
replacement of one capacitor.


You must have done something to expedite that order - UPS Ground 
delivery here in the US is usually 5 to 7 days unless it is to the same 
state or one adjacent where the delivery is next day to 3 days.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/20/2019 1:32 PM, Bruce McCartney via Elecraft wrote:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

 From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment T5 L30

2019-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Good work on the VFO.
Before you replace U11, measure the resistance from the wire on the 
carrier board to the lead of the SMD IC.  Do that for all pins.  The PC 
traces on the carrier board are not thru-plated holes and sometimes 
become damaged with soldering.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/19/2019 6:35 PM, K2bew wrote:

Don et al,

I tried a 15pf cap ( what I had on hand) at the source of Q19 to 
ground and I got .025v on R30 that did not change with the adjustment 
of L30, essentially no voltage.
So, I took it off and it went back to 4.5 volts. So, then I tried 
Vicenç, EA3ADV's suggestion and I put 17 turns on the red wire of T5.
That got me a voltage of 8.5V on R30 with L30 bottomed out that I 
was able to easily back off to a stable 6 volts.
I went ahead and did the voltage tests on the other bands and had a 
nice range of 1.844 to 6 volts as my low and high on the VCO.

So, that's all set.

However, new problem. I went on to the test the BFO and I have .04 
kHz. on TP2, so it's not working.
I went to the trouble shooting guide and I have 0.058 Vrms on pin 6 of 
U11 with the RF probe.
Looking at the archives of the reflector that would indicate that U11 
is bad and I need a replacement, correct? or are there other things I 
should look at first?
The good thing is I'm becoming very accustomed to the radio and 
enjoying the trouble shooting.

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

73,
Tom Bewick, K2BEW



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 external amplifier

2019-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Wolfgang,

Connect K60XV J2 pin 2 to a jack and you will have an Amp Keying output.
There is just barely room to mount an RCA jack on the lower rear panel. 
Look for a clear spot near the Key jack and drill a hole as close to the 
top of the panel as possible while still allowing the jack to not 
project above the top of the panel.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/20/2019 8:15 AM, Wolfgang Peringer wrote:

Hello:

I have built and installed the K60XV 60m and transverter adapter in my 
K2. I was using the 8-pin female connector (RF-J13) for my amplifier 
keying circuit (N0SS design). As this connector is now used for the 
KX60XV I am looking for a way to key an external amplifier.



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Re: [Elecraft] MCU Load Issues

2019-01-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Paul,

Go to the K3 Utility Help file and find the instructions to "Force a 
Firmware Download.


Follow those instructions and you should be back on the air.

That "problem" is usually caused by a computer glitch during a firmware 
load to the K3S.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/19/2019 6:10 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:

Went to load the latest update (to me) on my K3S and the radio is now
locked in the dark screen MCU LOAD mode. I have checked comports, they are
up to date, and rebooted twice and even shut the computer totally off.
Nothing ... No power from the P3 is coming in... plugged and repluged the
USB cables.all steps that are in the MCU Manager have been followed...
even tried to do an EE INIT and it will not do that either...


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Re: [Elecraft] My KAT500 won't tune when RF is applied via keying down on the microphone or by using the CW paddle. It tunes if I whistle into the microphone. I have it set up as Figure 5. General Cab

2019-01-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

When you simply press the mic PTT, there is very little power out in SSB 
mode until you talk into the mic - the SSB carrier is suppressed, and 
all you are transmitting is the suppressed carrier until you produce 
audio into the microphone.

The KAT500 needs at least 7 watts to tune.

For CW, do you get power output when you close the key?  The FT-450 must 
be put into Break-In state to deliver RF on a key closure.  I suppose 
there may be the possibility of holding PTT closed and then keying the 
FT-450 without being in Break-In mode, but I have not studied the entire 
FT-450 manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/19/2019 4:09 PM, James Dahl wrote:

My KAT500 won't tune when RF is applied via keying down on the microphone or by 
using the CW paddle. It tunes if I whistle into the microphone. I have it set 
up as Figure 5. General Cabling Requirements - Stand-Alone Transmitter or 
Transceiver shows in the manual. I have an Yaesu 450D. Any suggestions as to 
what the problem is?
Thanks,
Jim, WI6X
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] T-R Driver Circuit to key KXPA100

2019-01-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Heinz,

If you have the K60XV option installed in the K2, yes K60XV J2 pin 2 
will key an amplifier like the KXPA100.
The only difficult part is to find a place for a connector on the rear 
panel.  There is a place near the key jack where you can mount an RCA 
jack and not interfere with any components on the RF board - keep the 
jack as close to the top of the lower panel as possible.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/19/2019 2:23 PM, Heinz Baertschi wrote:


What kind of T-R keying circuit is necessary in the K2 (with K60XV installed
for 60m band usage, no XVTRs connected) to operate the KXPA100 amplifier?

a) Will the XVTR Keyline on K60XV J2-2 / Q3 (2N7000) do it correctly?

b) Is a keying circuit like these necessary?
http://folk.uio.no/sverre/LA3ZA/blog/K2/N0SS/k2_t-r_rly_drvr.pdf
ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/K2/Mod%20Notes%20Alerts/K2%20Amplifier%20Keying%20Circuit.pdf


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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 Transmit Problem

2019-01-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Terry,

This sounds like the same problem that Gary Smith was having.  Look 
through the posts of the last two days for subject line "Re: [Elecraft] 
K3s can only transmit wsjt if the K3s codec is windows default."


Peter Lambert provided the solution.  It is a Windows/WSJT-X setup 
problem and not a K3/K3S problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/19/2019 5:43 AM, Terry Hines wrote:

I'm having trouble with the I/F between Windows 10 and the USB sound card in
my upgraded K3. I've checked and the Sound Card settings in Windows 10 and
they are exactly as shown in Chapter 10 of Fred Cady's book. It receives and
decodes FT8 perfectly but can't transmit. When I hit the "Tune" button on
the WSJT-X screen the red "PTT" light comes on but there is no input signal
to the K3 and hence no RF output. What am I doing wrong?

Terry N4ZH

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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Frequency Anomaly

2019-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
One subtle point is to make certain in CW mode that you have tuned WWV 
to the carrier frequency and not to one of the transmitted tones.
You also must tune to the audio pitch you have set for your sidetone. 
That is why SPOT is so important.


Listen for the WOW-WOW-WOW of the beat note between WWV and your SPOT 
frequency.  Tune the VFO until the WOW-WOW-WOW slows to a stop if 
possible - then look at the frequency.  If it does not have a string of 
zeros to the right side, adjust the K3 Reference Oscillator as indicated 
in the manual Calibration Procedures - Use Method 2.


I mention this because I have encountered many hams who do not know what 
zero-beat is.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2019 6:15 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

One easy method is place the radio on the CW mode. Time to one of the WWV 
frequencies. Press the SPOT to activate the function. Any difference between 
the WWV frequency and the readout is the error.

Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Frequency Anomaly

2019-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Note that in the two cases mentioned, you reported 47 +/-1 Hz difference.

That is not much and can easily be attributed to a difference in the 
calibration of the radio or the audio frequency accuracy of the soundcards.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2019 12:07 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:


On 1/18/2019 8:54 AM, Richard wrote:
After working a friend on 10 meters with FT8 I phoned and asked him 
why he always stayed up high at 2454 Hz. He said WSJT-X said he was 
dead on 2500 Hz.


I asked him what it said my frequency was. He said it was 1048 Hz; my 
WSJT-X said I was dead on 1000 Hz. We did more testing at other 
frequencies and on other bands and found similar discrepancies.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment T5 L30

2019-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Normally I would say to spread or compress the turns on T5, but Elecraft 
encountered a batch of J310 FETs that do not work very well at Q19 - the 
PLL reference oscillator.  These troublesome FETs have now been purged 
from the Elecraft stock, that the problem should go away going forward.

I am not sure that is your problem, but it is worthy of checking.

First question is - did you get good frequency readings for the PLL 
Reference Oscillator range?  If it fails, you see a strange frequency 
reading at the high frequency end (when BAND+ is tapped).
Now, the other "funny" thing is that it sometimes checks OK with the 
internal counter probe plugged into TP3, but fails when the probe is 
removed.


Under those conditions, the PLL and VFO do not lock together

So the first thing to try is to solder a 10 to 15pF capacitor between 
the source of Q19 and ground.  Then between a combination of adjusting 
the red turns on T5 and L30 see if you can obtain the correct R30 voltage.


If that is successful, then all should be well.

If not successful, get a replacement Q19 from Elecraft.  Send the part 
number and description to pa...@elecraft.com and ask for a replacement.


If that does not correct things, then email me and we can go through 
some other checks to determine the source of the failure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2019 8:48 AM, K2bew wrote:

Don et al,

Since I know Don monitors the reflector as well as the support emails,
rather than email Don directly I thought I would ask the question on here
because I know I always find it helpful to read other peoples questions on
here and Don's answer.

Building the K2 I am at the VCO Alignment voltage check on R30 and
adjusting L30.
VFO frequency set at 4000.00 kHz
I initially got 3.5 volts and bottomed out L30 to get it to 5.5 volts, and
then I over screwed it to try to get that last half a volt and ended
damaging it, so, then I carefully took out L30 and put in a new one.

I also took out T5 and rechecked all the ends for continuity, rewound the
green wire to space it exactly in the middle of the red winding and spaced
everything evenly. I confirmed it is the large yellow core, I have 16 on
the red wire and 4 on the green (by the way the illustration shows 14 turns
of red) . I verified I have R30 as Br-R-Br 120 ohms with both my DVM and by
color, and I verified C72 is 271, and I reflowed the solder on both.
With a new 4.7 inductor (large slot, no red mark) in L30 I now get 2.75
volts on the left side of R30 to start with and it bottoms out at 4.5 volts
(I was very careful to not bottom it out too hard this time and damage this
one, and I have already ordered a couple new ones from Elecraft).

What else can I do to increase that voltage? Would changing the number of
windings on T5 change it enough to get to 6 volts?

Thank you and 73,
Tom Bewick K2BEW

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Re: [Elecraft] Driving KPAA500 from KX3

2019-01-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

If the voltage displayed on the KPA500 is within range, nothing has to 
be done.


See page 9 of the KPA500 manual for instructions on checking the voltage.
If the voltage is not in range, change the transformer tap.  See page 8 
of the manual.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 1/15/2019 8:43 PM, John Pierce wrote:

Just got 220v to my shack.  I put the 220V fuses into the KPA500 and
connected the amp to 220v using the ELecraft power cable.  I was expecting
to do something to the transformer wiring in the KPA500, but did not see any
instruction to do so.  Is that all there is to powering the KPA500 from
220vac?

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Re: [Elecraft] Setting band edges on the K3

2019-01-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

David,

As I recall, per country band limits must be set at Watsonville, CA or 
an authorized repair facility.
That is done do comply with various country band limits for amateur 
radio transceivers - most notably Japan and some other Asian markets.


Contact supp...@elecraft.com for a definitive answer.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/16/2019 10:37 AM, David Woolley wrote:
The UK 5MHz allocation is not a single continuous allocation.  It is 
more like number of spot frequencies with allowances for different 
bandwidths.  Applying frequency fencing would need consideration of 
modes and filters as well as frequency.


In general, I believe that Elecraft set frequency limits based on the 
destination country, although I don't think they can cope with 
essentially spot allocations.


I believe there are ways of changing the allocations in the field, but 
they are not in the public domain and users have to demonstrate 
authorisation for the frequency.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Line Out (stereo)

2019-01-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
The K3/K3S Line Out already has isolation transformers internal to the 
K3.  I do not understand any need to put additional transformers in the 
audio path(s).


What happens if you cable to LINE OUT signals to a computer soundcard 
(with both left and right channels - some only are one channel if the 
input is set for MIC)?  You should hear the main RX in the left channel 
and the SubRX in the right.


Your external transformers/cabling raises the question of "is it the K3S 
or is it your external devices that are causing the problem".


Time to strip everything down to the essentials and begin to determine 
where the "failure" is occurring.  Test one thing at a time.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/15/2019 8:00 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

My K3s arrived over the weekend and I have been setting it up. I am using
the rear Audio jacks to drive either headphones, or the Line out to drive
an amplifier and two speakers in the stereo mode.

The headphone jack has stereo output ok.  But the line out only has right
channel audio.  Left channel has nothing but a low hum.

I am testing them one at a time, using the same cable. So it is not a case
of a bad cable.  The plug inserts to the same depth in both the headphone
and line out jacks, so I believe the plug is properly inserted,

I have been through both the Main Menu and Config menus, item by item.  I
see nothing that would give the option to turn off the left channel of the
line out.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Line Out (stereo)

2019-01-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Last Field Day, my K3 was used at the CW station.  Two sets of 
headphones.  One for the operator and one for the logger.
One was plugged into the rear panel Phones jack and the other was 
plugged into the front panel jack.  No problem, no splitter.
Ok, if there were folks nearby who wanted to listen in, we would simply 
turn on SPKR+PHONES in the menu, and the speaker could also be heard.


Very versatile.  Why make it complicated - the K3 gives us the tools to 
do it 'the easy way'.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/15/2019 11:23 PM, K9MA wrote:
I found that the level at headphone output, at least the rear panel one, 
was too low to drive two pairs of headphones in parallel in my setup, 
which includes some isolation transformers. The speaker output works 
fine with the headphones. (Don't try this with super sensitive low 
impedance headphones.) I just wired a switch to an external speaker.


73,
Scott K9MA

On 1/15/2019 20:51, Nr4c wrote:
Why use Line Out for speakers. There is a perfectly good jack marked 
Speakers right next to the Phones jack. Be sure and use a Stereo plug 
but it is for wait for it.  Speakers!




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub-receiver RIT

2019-01-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gernot,

If you have the subRX, why not tune to listen for those off-frequency 
stations with the VFO B knob.  Your transmit frequency is unchanged on 
VFO A, so no need for RIT unless you are only listening to the mainRX.


An easy VFO A>B pushbutton will put VFO on the same frequency as VFO A 
anytime you change your transmit frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/15/2019 4:29 PM, g...@gmx.net wrote:

John,
the issue with SO2V is that you want to stay on your run frequency, but 
be able to slightly tune up and down to hear callers which are not 
exactly on your TX freq. RIT comes in handy here, as you just press RIT 
or CLR after the QSO is finished. I don't have a K-POD, but if it would 
let me do this stuff I'd consider buying one.

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Re: [Elecraft] Phillips screwdrivers

2019-01-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Art,

The Elecraft screws are American Phillips #1 size.
Use quality tools and you will be rewarded - bypass the bargain-bin 
selections.  Poor quality tools lead to injury to your body as well as 
damaged parts.  I have found good quality screwdrivers at Ace Hardware, 
but my favorite is Excelite.


Yes, if you are working on Japanese radios, you will need JIS.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/15/2019 12:04 PM, Arthur Nienhouse wrote:

*/Don
Good advice on shinny  Phillips drivers.

Are the screws in the Elecraft products American Phillips, or JIS 
Japanese Industrial Standard?


JIS which all the Japanese radios use, for my Icom radios I use a set of 
Hozan screw drivers to fix the Cam-Outs issue destroying the head of the 
screws, the difference is subtle.


I was told years ago the fit is right if the small screw stays on the 
screw driver holding it vertical with out magnetism keeping it attached.


Regards
Art
ka9zap
/*
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT3A & KIO3B Upgrade for my K3

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Joseph,

Get yourself a *new* #1 phillips screwdriver (if your screwdriver tip 
looks shiny, it is worn, throw it away).  If you are trying to use a #2 
(the most common phillips), then get a #1. You may be wise to replace 
the stripped screws.  Consider the Stainless Steel screw kit from 
Elecraft - it may be less expensive than ordering the screws one by one.


Congratulations on finishing the K1.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 8:36 PM, Joseph M. Durnal wrote:
KAT3A and KIO3B installed!  Had a scare as I couldn't remove the 
bottom center screw on the right side panel, it started stripping.  I 
had this issue on one of the front panel screws about a year ago when 
I was trying to replace my VFO B encoder.  I was able to get the KAT3A 
installed without completely removing the right side panel.


I should have spring for over night shipping, I was counting on the 
USPS to get it to me by Friday, but the package didn't arrive until 
today.  Elecraft shipped it on Wednesday, but I guess since they 
aren't Amazon, the USPS doesn't bend over backward for them.


The good news was while waiting for the K3 upgrades, I finally 
finished soldering the K1.  That's been a 10 year odyssey, that I'll 
write about at a later date.  I need to find the power cable I made up 
for it to finish testing and to get it on the air.  That's what 
happens when you take over 10 years to build a kit.


Back on the subject, ahh, it is nice to have a little less clutter on 
the desk.  The KAT3A tunes my antenna on all bands, even 160, which 
was a shock!  Not that I'll be doing much down there with my indoor 
attic antenna. I might buy one of the custom FSK interfaces, mine 
looks like something between a spider and a plate of spaghetti.





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Re: [Elecraft] SWR on 40M band

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dragon,

Just to eliminate the dummy load from questions, have you checked that 
dummy load with an antenna analyzer on 40 meters?  If not, please do 
that just to keep it above suspicion.


I certainly don't know the answer.  If you cannot identify the problem 
source, an email to supp...@elecraft.com may provide additional information.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 7:52 PM, Dragan 4O4A wrote:

Hi Don,
Thanks for prompt reply.

No KAT3 installed.
I'm aware that it is not a big deal, it's just annoying.
However, I would like to understand what caused it and how to fix it - if it
is a simple solution.


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Re: [Elecraft] SWR on 40M band

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dragan,

Can I assume that you first tuned the KAT3 to the dummy load on 40 meters?

If you did not, then the L/C combination for the last antenna TUNE you 
did are still present, and will show an SWR with a dummy load.


Actually 1.3:1 is quite a workable load on any band.  The SWR does not 
have to be 1:1.  In fact there is a low SWR point where the ATU will not 
attempt to tune.


See the K3 manual page 22 and the CONFIG:KAT3 menu (K3 manual page 56). 
If you have the K3S, the manual pages may b a bit different.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 7:24 PM, Dragan 4O4A wrote:

Hello all,

Well, I cannot say that it is a high SWR, but when I connect my K3 to dummy
load it shows 1.3:1 SWR on 40M. All other bands 160-10 are OK, 1:1. Other
rigs shows 1:1 on 40M.

Where to start to fix this?

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Re: [Elecraft] 500Hz Filter Offset Question

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rich,

Wrong - you must enter the offset frequency.
Related - what is true is that you do not need matched filters in the 
main and the subRX for Diversity reception with the new synthesizers.


There are plots on the Elecraft website showing the filter response.  I 
don't recall if the 500 Hz filters are included.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 5:30 PM, Rich wrote:


So now that I have 5 pole filters, I seem to recall that entering the 
offset freq is not required any longer on the K3S, is that true?


Also does a K3 upgraded with K3S features need the offset freq?

I should mention that they are all matched.


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Re: [Elecraft] New DSP Idea

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

Certainly not - any firmware changes to the K3S are applicable to the K3 
as well.  But the K3 is now 10 years old, and there is now not much new 
engineering effort going on to make improvements.  If problems develop, 
they will certainly be addresses - perhaps even with top priority 
depending on how serious.  Even the 20 year old K2 still has a lot of 
attention at Elecraft and is still being actively sold.
Even the discontinued products are being fully addressed by Elecraft 
support.


Yes, I am certain there is considerable effort on some new product 
(there always is), and K3 improvements have simply been moved to a lower 
priority.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 2:49 PM, bill wrote:


Is the K3 now a developmental orphan?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 upgrades?

2019-01-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Johnny,

Since any builder can upgrade a K2 by installing the A to B Mod plus any 
other associated mod kits, you will have to determine the level by 
inspection.
Download the K2ATOB instructions and look at all the associated upgrade 
kits listed on the first page - then download the instructions for each 
of those upgrade kits.


Remove the top and bottom covers from your K2 and compare your physical 
board with the instructions for each upgrade kit.
Often owners have installed one or two upgrade kits from the full A to B 
upgrade, but have not done others.


A fully upgraded K2 can perform just like a newly built kit.  That fact 
makes it difficult to predict what upgrades are still needed other than 
inspection of the parts installed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2019 1:43 PM, Johnny Matlock wrote:

I bought a older K2 today.
Serial number below 1000.

Which upgrades are recommended by the group?

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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Al,

If not placed at the antenna feedpoint (up at the antenna), then the 
feedline may radiate due to common mode current.
For feedlines using parallel conductors, the problem is not as bad if 
the feedline exits at right angles from the radiator for at least a half 
wavelength.  In that case, the common mode choke can be placed at the 
junction of the parallel line and coax.


In all cases of a radiator fed with coax, a good common mode choke at 
the radiator feedpoint is necessary.  Even though the RF on the inside 
of the coax is balanced, when the coax reaches the radiator, the side of 
the antenna connected to the coax shield sees two paths.  One is the 
side of the radiator, and the other is the outside of the coax braid - 
it will dutifully split to follow both paths depending on the impedance 
of each one.  A good common mode choke will prevent the RF current from 
seeing the coax shield as another conductor.


A similar situation exists at the transition between parallel feedline 
and coax.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/13/2019 6:42 PM, Al Lorona wrote:

By the way, whenever Jim says, "...a very good common mode choke at the feedpoint of 
an antenna...," he means an antenna fed with coax. For the rest of us, of course, 
that choke would (should) go at the output of the antenna tuner, whether in the shack or 
close by.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 & Drake TR7

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Marcel,

About the maximum voltage, that might be in the TR7 specifications. 
OTOH, start with the pot at a low voltage and increase it until you 
achieve the results that you want.


The K3 EXT ALC default threshold is -4.0 volts, so that may be a good 
starting point for your experiments.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 5:19 PM, Marcel Jorba via Elecraft wrote:

  Thanks to all of for your prompt answers
On CW it works great thanks to the carrier adjustment control

On SSB: it goes to 150W out very easy
Yes it is just for fun.
The K3 is great but the TR7 is funny and special.


One last question: Someone suggested to use a 9V battery  with a pot to inject 
a constant negative voltage in to the TR7. But any idea about the maximum 
voltage?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Mode switch skips AM

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Keith,

Go to the menu and make sure AM MODE is turned ON.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 5:37 PM, Keith Onishi wrote:

Hello,

Tapping MODE switch on my KX3 with MCU 02.90, most latest firmware, switches mode 
from SSB -> CW -> FM, then back to SSB. It does skips AM.
I have not switched to AM for long time. I think I was able to select AM by 
tapping MODE before.
I went through KX3 Owner’s Manual to look for any configuration to skip any 
specific mode, but found none.
Sending “MD5;” from KX3 utility software switches KX3 to AM mode. So MPU is OK 
on selecting a mode except switching the mode by MODE switch.
I restored my KX3 configuration backed up almost 6 months ago, but the symptom 
is same. Then I reloaded the latest firmware to my KX3, but the same result.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Receiver recovery time

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

I would be cautious about looking only at the IF.  That is all in front 
of the DSP.
Certainly the DSP creates some latency, but that is not what we are 
talking about.  The DSP latency will delay all signals.


So test in the configuration that you will likely use.  If using the IF 
output, then test only at the IF.


Your question relates to the recovery time for the entire receiver.
And that does include the filters, both roofing filters and the DSP 
filtering.


Don't forget that the Hardware AGC cannot be turned off, but that does 
not come into play until the signal is greater than S-9+60


As A result, I believe you need to do actual testing with your 
particular K3 under various filtering conditions.
In other words, you are asking a very complex question, and you have not 
given us the other configuration settings and filters to be used - other 
than AGC OFF.  For that reason, your K3 may have a different answer than 
others.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 3:43 PM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:

Hi Don,

Thanks for the combined brain power!  I have a plan for testing if it 
ever gets that far.  I am just trying to see if the K3 receiver recovers 
sufficiently fast in a general sort of way first.


I believe I could look at RF levels on the IF while transmitting, (using 
a different transmitter and a storage scope to look at the K3 IF), then 
just drop the carrier while still looking at the levels with that scope. 
  When I see signals return to the IF I have the recovery time of the 
receiver.


I am just trying to skip that step hoping someone actually knows the 
recovery time of the receiver, as opposed to actual testing.


If the K3 is even close, I will set up test jig for it, if not, then 
I'll look for a better way.



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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ron,

With a slight difference, I cannot see that it would either benefit or 
degrade.  The current distribution on the radiator might be a little 
off-center, but it will still work.
But it is one reason for using a very good current choke on the feedline 
- to keep RF off the outer braid of the coax.


The OCF antennas are infamous for conducting RF into the shack.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 3:07 PM, Ron Genovesi wrote:

  I was asked a question by a newcomer to HF today. After thinking about 
it, I realized it had never really occurred to me. So I’ll pass it on to the 
group and  see what the antenna gurus think.
 Is there ever a time where a slight imbalance in a dipole could be 
beneficial? My first inclination was, No, other than the obvious OCF Dipole. 
But considering that you could have very different conditions under  an 
antenna, both above the ground and under the ground, not to mention a 
difference in height above ground. What do you think. Could a couple of inches 
or so difference in the length of the legs of a dipole ever work in your favor?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Receiver recovery time

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

I am trying to think of how you might test it.
The best I can think of is to listen to both a noise source and an XG3 
sending a CW string of dots.  Increase the speed of the CW sent by the 
XG3 until you can no longer hear the noise source between dits.
Then either calculate the off times for the dits or measure it on an 
oscilloscope.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 2:07 PM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:

Hi again Scott,

Thank you for your answer, but I am not being clear.

Not during break in, just sitting there in receive...  If the radio is 
hit with an S9+ signal, how long after the S9+ signal terminates before 
the K3 receiver recovers enough to show an weak signal on the IF...  No 
T/R happening, just sitting there in receive.


You are close to what I am looking for...  I am investigating the 
possibility of using the K3 as the receiver portion in a homebrew 
bistatic radar setup running in the HF spectrum.

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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dick and Chuck,

Please read the description for the BAT MIN on page 54 of the Owner's 
Manual again.
It explicitly states that BAT MIN refers to the main 12v power supply to 
the K3 and NOT to the 3 volt lithium battery.


Check the power supply voltage as read in the ALT VFO B DISPLAY. That 
gives you the voltage seen inside the K3 and if you have voltage drops 
at the connectors for the power cable, it will be shown there.

The usual setting for BAT MIN is 11 volts.

You will NOT be "good to go" even if you replace the lithium 3 volt battery.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 1:56 PM, RIchard Williams wrote:

Chuck

An not sure where the people answering your question are obtaining 
their dis-information from.   In any case, the K3 does indeed have a 3 
V lithium on the main board.  It is used to power the clock, and it 
can last from 2 to 10 years.


It is a CR 2032 cell and is located  on the left front side on the RF 
board.


This information is on page 59 of the K3 assembly manual. 
Additionally,  it is also on page 54  BAT MIN in the Owner's Manual.


Replace the battery and you will be good to go.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Receiver recovery time

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

That depends on slow or fast AGC and the setting of the AGC DCY menu 
parameter.

Fast is very quick - just watch the S-meter to get some visual indication.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 11:49 AM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:

Hello,

Anyone able to answer this question please?

In the presence of a strong signal, say -75 db, (or around S9), once 
that signal ceases, how long does it take the K3 receiver to return to 
normal receive capability again?



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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

2019-01-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

Then check the power supply voltage (Use the alternate VFB B display) 
and all connectors.

That message has nothing to do with the RTC battery.

There is no internal battery in the K3 other than the tiny RTC battery.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 12:01 AM, Mpridesti wrote:

Don

It is a K3.  Bought it used and carries a low serial number. Never have changed 
the internal battery (over 8 years in my possession).

Regards,
Mark, K1RX



On Jan 12, 2019, at 11:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

I assume you mean the KX3.  The K3 has no internal battery.

If you have Ni-MH batteries, they need recharging.  If you are using Alkaline 
batteries, they need to be replaced.  I assume you have set the menu BAT MIN 
for the type of battery you are using.  See the KX3 manual page 36 of the 
manual.

Set BAT MIN for the type batteries used.  The default of 10 volts is good for 
external Lead Acid batteries.  All other types require a different setting.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/12/2019 10:40 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:
Just saw a message pop up saying Battery Low
Assume this is the internal battery requires replacement?




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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

2019-01-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

I assume you mean the KX3.  The K3 has no internal battery.

If you have Ni-MH batteries, they need recharging.  If you are using 
Alkaline batteries, they need to be replaced.  I assume you have set the 
menu BAT MIN for the type of battery you are using.  See the KX3 manual 
page 36 of the manual.


Set BAT MIN for the type batteries used.  The default of 10 volts is 
good for external Lead Acid batteries.  All other types require a 
different setting.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2019 10:40 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:

Just saw a message pop up saying Battery Low

Assume this is the internal battery requires replacement?


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Re: [Elecraft] New DSP Idea

2019-01-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

When they are driven from the same synthesizer, they are indeed "phase 
locked".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2019 5:59 PM, Nr4c wrote:

I’m not an engineer but from the discussions here in the past, in diversity 
mode, the VFOs are not “phase locked” but actually driven by the same 
synthesizer, so they both get the very same frequency info.  Thus output the 
same frequency.


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Re: [Elecraft] New DSP Idea

2019-01-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

Using Diversity Receive, the human brain does that automatically (but 
not with the numbers).  You can sort out both signals and automatically 
pick the best one or a blend of the two.  This is an unconscious process.


The name of the game is communications, not looking at numbers 
representing the two signals or the difference between them.


To analyze and display the differences may be useful in a lab setting, 
but not of much use for quickly picking the best path for a QSO.


Just my opinion.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2019 5:06 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


I know Wayne requested direct replies to his query and I've already done 
that, but I have a serious suggestion and I'm curious if others here 
would be interested.  Here it is:


===
The two receivers in a K3 or K3s can be phase locked for diversity 
reception, and the new synths preserve that phase lock even with a 
change in frequency.  Since the relative phase of an incoming signal 
presented to the two receivers is preserved during down conversion, it 
is possible to capture that phase difference even in the audio chain. 
Once that phase difference is known, it should be possible to:


1.  Display the difference.  This would allow a user to put up two 
vertical sense antennas to determine the azimuth of an incoming signal 
(albeit with a potential mirror image uncertainty).  Or put up two 
horizontal sense antennas to display the arrival angle of an incoming 
signal.


2.  Better yet, it should be possible to adjust the relative phase and 
amplitude of an incoming signal from the two antennas, then either add 
them or subtract one from the other to either peak a desired signal or 
null an interfering signal (including a source of noise, man made or 
atmospheric).

===

There are commercially available pieces of hardware from various ham 
suppliers that perform this same function except at RF (which is more 
difficult), and they cost several hundreds of dollars.  It seems to me 
that any K3s, or K3 with the new synths, should be able to do the same 
thing virtually for free.


73,
Dave   AB7E

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