Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Loren Faeth]

Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced today, in 
the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of 
several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.


We do need some new oil refineries.

At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on
line - 1978 IIRC

I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and some
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide our oil
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to build
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned by
a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up.
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open
arms.

A refinery doesn't have a chance --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron


> David Brodbeck wrote:
>> Christopher McCann wrote:
>>> "ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
>>> #1 diesel and than MOST #2."
>>>
>>>   Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...
>
> I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
> fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
> out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but that
> can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
> exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
> the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. Their
> facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chainissues)

[Loren Faeth]

I would not speculate on the quality of the timing chain.  Order one from 
Rusty using the link at the bottom of each email, or if that makes you 
nervous, buy one from a reputable dealer, such as Caliber Motors. Order the 
tensioner too!


My $.02

At 06:15 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

Ho all!

I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd...  One quick question.

Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> You wrote:
> < I
> may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
> and how it corresponds to the engine tune.>>>
>
> < '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
> >From what I have been gathering from the various
> input
> I have received that this is just a bit much and the
> timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
> to
> do this.
> When I do this, should I:
> Replace the tensionier?>>>
>
> I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
> long time.  How many miles
> are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
> very expensive and if
> you want everything to be as close to "On Spec" as
> possible it won't hurt -
> but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
> and the tensioner comes
> off if you want to replace it later.
>
> < I
> suspect there will be some little slack in the
> sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
> up
> at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
> line up at like 1%?>>
>
> When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
> and it aligned
> perfectly at 0.
>
> < have
> some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
> fairly straight forward.>>
>
> Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
> the chain and connecting
> link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
> crimp could destroy the
> engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
> and trying to hold a
> backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
> your little hammer - while
> making sure the connecting link stays in place as
> you hold everything and
> swing the hammer, gently.
>
> < this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
> the
> old chain?>>
>
> Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
> grinding wheels tools
> must be up to the task,
>
> < before
> I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
> so any info or insight you may have, would be
> greatly
> appreciated.!>>
>
> Give us a day to think about it --
>
> Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
> little while --
>
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff
> http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
> Paint Job Info
> 
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


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[MBZ] Pinched from sniffpetrol.com

[RELNGSON]

SMART CANCELS EVERYTHING 

When bosses at DaimlerChrysler's up shit creek brand Smart warned that tough 
decisions were needed if the company was to make a profit, many industry 
observers were unsurprised when these decisions included killing the ailing 
Roadster model and last week's announcement that they will also cease 
production of 
the larger ForFour model. Now Smart management has revealed their most radical 
cost saving measure to date - they're not going to bother making any cars at 
all. "To see some return on investment it was crucial that we deleted 
unprofitable models like the Roadster and ForFour and these measures seemed to 
work," 
said someone who was inside. "So then we realised that if we got rid of the 
ForTwo as well this would completely solve the problem of trying to sell cars 
at 
a loss. Car making is a difficult business to return a profit on. So we aren't 
going to do it any more. Now we are just going to sit here keeping out of 
trouble and everything will be fine".
Whilst some observers are puzzled as to how you can be a car company when you 
don't make any cars, at least one high profile industry figure was approving 
of the unusual plan: "I can heartily recommend this approach to car 
not-making," said former MG Rover boss Joan Towers. "We stopped building cars 
almost a 
year ago and I still seem to have lots of money".

Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timingchainissues)

[James Zavesky]

Call Rusty and give him the VIN from your car. He will get you the right
parts for your car. Such as the timing chain and chain tensioner.

8007415252

He's the list sponsor

James Zavesky


- Original Message - 
From: "hue wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td
timingchainissues)


> Ho all!
>
> I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
> 300sd...  One quick question.
>
> Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
> link chains for 61x.xxx engines?
>
> Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
> cheapest around...
>
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1
>
>
>
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > You wrote:
> > < > I
> > may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
> > and how it corresponds to the engine tune.>>>
> >
> > < > '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
> > >From what I have been gathering from the various
> > input
> > I have received that this is just a bit much and the
> > timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
> > to
> > do this.
> > When I do this, should I:
> > Replace the tensionier?>>>
> >
> > I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
> > long time.  How many miles
> > are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
> > very expensive and if
> > you want everything to be as close to "On Spec" as
> > possible it won't hurt -
> > but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
> > and the tensioner comes
> > off if you want to replace it later.
> >
> > < > I
> > suspect there will be some little slack in the
> > sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
> > up
> > at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
> > line up at like 1%?>>
> >
> > When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
> > and it aligned
> > perfectly at 0.
> >
> > < > have
> > some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
> > fairly straight forward.>>
> >
> > Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
> > the chain and connecting
> > link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
> > crimp could destroy the
> > engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
> > and trying to hold a
> > backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
> > your little hammer - while
> > making sure the connecting link stays in place as
> > you hold everything and
> > swing the hammer, gently.
> >
> > < > this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
> > the
> > old chain?>>
> >
> > Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
> > grinding wheels tools
> > must be up to the task,
> >
> > < > before
> > I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
> > so any info or insight you may have, would be
> > greatly
> > appreciated.!>>
> >
> > Give us a day to think about it --
> >
> > Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
> > little while -- 
> >
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> > A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> > For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> > Weber Carb Stuff
> > http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> > http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
> > Paint Job Info
> > 
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
> __
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info

[Royce Engler]

I don't want to suggest that we don't need new refineries (specifically, we
need more capacity), but the argument that we haven't built a "new" refinery
since 1978 isn't quite true.  It's been my observation from within the "awl
bidness" that while there haven't been any "new" sites (i.e. green field
locations), every refinery is in a constant state of rebuilding.  You either
do that or you get left behind.  But you can't build on a new location
without bringing out all the NIMBYs to try to stop you.

Having said that, I suspect that the real problem is twofold.  First, the
crazy quilt of environmental regulations requires refiners to make a whole
lot of different formulations which adds significantly to cost.  Second, the
focus of American business on quarter to quarter profits drives long term
businesses like refining to take short term improvements at the expense of
strategic improvements.

My $.02.

OBTW...I took a new day job which will involve about a 25 mile commute, so
the Shaggin Wagin will start really earning its keep.  Just put a new half
shaft in the rear end and it rides real sweet.

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 285K
Mobil1 in everything

Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

[Frederick Moir]

Hi, All.
  Kaleb, my expierence with an 190E is that the temp switches on the top of the 
engine water outlet are non too reliable, and the fix is to use one from an 
124. The 124 switches are set a few degrees lower and work out better, ( I 
know, clear as mud). As for the mileage, Mine did about 21-22 in mixed driving 
and about 25 @ 65-70 highway.
  This was an 1985 190E automatic with 187K miles that ran, and still runs, 
well. (tin worm).
  HTH.
  Fred Moir
  Now cured of gasaholicism.
  Lynn MA
  'It's diesel this and diesel that, and "chuck 'im out , the brute"". RK.

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage? Mine doesnt appear 
to. Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked 
in. Does this mean my temp switch is bad?

Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant 
stop and go driving? Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving 
than the diesel?



-
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
starting at 1¢/min.
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Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 16:15:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: hue wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing
chainissues)
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Ho all!

I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd...  One quick question.

Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> You wrote:
> < I
> may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
> and how it corresponds to the engine tune.>>>
> 
> < '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
> >From what I have been gathering from the various
> input
> I have received that this is just a bit much and the
> timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
> to
> do this.
> When I do this, should I:
> Replace the tensionier?>>>
> 
> I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
> long time.  How many miles 
> are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
> very expensive and if 
> you want everything to be as close to "On Spec" as
> possible it won't hurt - 
> but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
> and the tensioner comes 
> off if you want to replace it later.
> 
> < I
> suspect there will be some little slack in the
> sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
> up
> at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
> line up at like 1%?>>
> 
> When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
> and it aligned 
> perfectly at 0.
> 
> < have
> some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
> fairly straight forward.>>
> 
> Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
> the chain and connecting 
> link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
> crimp could destroy the 
> engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
> and trying to hold a 
> backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
> your little hammer - while 
> making sure the connecting link stays in place as
> you hold everything and 
> swing the hammer, gently.

[MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage?  Mine doesnt appear 
to.  Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked 
in.  Does this mean my temp switch is bad?


Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant 
stop and go driving?  Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving 
than the diesel?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net`

Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues

[jgiels]

didn't see any reply's though I think you have some very good questions.. 

douglas.. 
- Original Message - 
From: "hue wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues



Hi all!

Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks
like it's exactly 5 degrees off.  


(if the mesurement is:  the mark on the cam guide
collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock
are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the
top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing gauge
on teh crankcase housing?)

And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly is
the procedure to swap out the timing chain?

Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and
tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped out
as well!  



(oh how I hate these simple projects that get big! 
zoiks!)


Thanks is advance for any info...




--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> Can anyone point me in the right direction of the
> procedure to check the timing chain "stretch"?

Line up the marks that are on the collar of the
cam gear and the back of the front cam bearing tower
at the 3 o'clock position when you're standing in
front.
Read the degrees of stretch off of the timing scale
on
the damper.  Rotate the engine only in the correct
direction,
either with the crank nut or the power steering nut.
 The
latter, if it works for you, is usually considerably
easier
to access.  Anything above 5 degrees means it's
probably time
to change it out.  Double that and it's time to not
start
the engine again before you fix it!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[David Brodbeck]

lee wrote:
Putting XP on your Mac is like putting cheap mags and a spoiler on your Benz. 
  


Well, yes and no.  It's more like having a gasoline Benz instead of a 
diesel one.  It's not as efficient and there's more maintenace required, 
but you have a lot more options when you need to buy fuel.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[lee]

On Thursday 06 April 2006 12:12, David Brodbeck wrote:
> If you buy a retail boxed copy, you get support directly from
> Microsoft.  That's one of the reasons you pay a premium to get it that way.


Been there. Called M$ years ago  when I was having problems with a 
Windows-powered pc and verified experientially what I had long suspected - 
the only advantage the guy on the other end of the line had over me was that 
he had a M$ troubleshooting manual. 

Putting XP on your Mac is like putting cheap mags and a spoiler on your Benz. 


Lee

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[l02turner]

You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on 
line - 1978 IIRC


I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and some 
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide our oil 
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to build 
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned by 
a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1 
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up. 
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open 
arms.


A refinery doesn't have a chance --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron



David Brodbeck wrote:

Christopher McCann wrote:

"ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
#1 diesel and than MOST #2."

  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...


I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but that
can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. Their
facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] Damn, it's cold

[wilton strickland]

Sunil, after Grnlnd, I had choice of only B-52 bases; came to Goldsboro, NC,
to fly B-52's.

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

[David Brodbeck]

Peter T. Arnold wrote:

Having the 500ML size can in front of me, it would seem that the
engine will take a considerable amount of time to consume it, diesels
being frugal with regards to fuel needs at idle.
How much time should I budget?
  


I didn't time mine, but I think the whole job took me an hour.  A fair 
amount of that time was spent watching it slowly chug through the bottle 
of Purge.  I goosed the throttle every so often to help things along.  I 
stopped the engine before the Purge was completely gone, to keep from 
sucking air into the system, then used what was left to pre-fill the new 
main fuel filter.


I didn't notice any change in my car, but maybe my injectors just 
weren't that dirty to start with.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Curt Raymond]

I only lost a hubcap off my 240D once and that was when a tire monkey lost a 
clip.
  
Several times I had my 240D sliding sideways thinking "Hmm, what do I do now?" 
To say I drove that car hard would be somewhat of an understatement, I beat the 
everloving snot out of it.
  That said I always had cheap tires on it too...
  My 190D handles like its on rails by comparison although I think maybe the 
240D rides a little nicer.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 12:29:42 -0500
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it "cute").

Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering? I know that
this happens on a lot of cars, and it's why police cars would always
have "hubcaps" (just covering the middle of the wheel), rather than
"wheel covers" which cover the whole diameter, attaching to the outer
lip of wheel (and thus are succeptible to popping off under wheel
flex).

I know on that old TV commercial that was posted to the list some time
ago, that orange 300D was cornering at the limits of its capability,
and the wheel covers stayed on. Unless I'm forgetting and it had
bundts. Or unless they sneakily adhered them to the wheels in
preparation for the handling demonstration.

Brian
83 240D



-
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Subject: [MBZ] Diesel Purge
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I have always been very skeptical of any "Miracle in a Bottle" unless
it has a green stamp on it.
So, after 3 years of 300SDL ownership, I have finally decided to try
"Diesel Purge" in an attempt to improve the lopping idle that my
machine is vexed with.
Having the 500ML size can in front of me, it would seem that the
engine will take a considerable amount of time to consume it, diesels
being frugal with regards to fuel needs at idle.
How much time should I budget?
Should I run the can dry?  Should I than use the fuel captured at the
return line or is it contaminated with crud and corrosion from the
cleaning process.
Can this be done on Moose Friday?  During Lent?
Will I be proud of myself in the morning?


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI  Needs a Purge
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!

Re: [MBZ] Reliability

[RELNGSON]

PF tells us:

<>

I don't consider myself uninitiated and I've had some expensive Mac troubles. 
My first machine, bought 1/95 was a 7100/66 (which couldn't do much) and 
chugged along for 13000+ hours with no problems. Sort of a 240D, I suppose. I 
replaced in about five years ago with a G4/867 (Quicksilver, I think, perking 
along on OS 10.4.6) and it hasn't been a paragon of reliability, exactly. About 
a 
month after the warranty expired, the Superdrive (Apple's term) went nuts, 
scratching up some software discs to the point of destruction. That was 
expensive. Then last year the hard drive started making random clicking and 
clunking 
noises. The local Mac expert (a long time PCA friend) said the drive was about 
to fail and I should be sure everything is backed up and for God's sake don't 
turn the thing off until I bring it to the shop. A new drive and larger drive 
solved that problem. It also has an ongoing problem, losing it's clock time 
when off. It's not the battery and I'm not going to fix it because the clock 
sets 
itself when I log on to Comcast, anyway.

I wouldn't mind speeding up the machine because of my flight simulator, 
X-Plane, but I have no interest in a G5, pre or post Intel.

RLE/Seattle

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Marshall Booth]

David Brodbeck wrote:

Christopher McCann wrote:
"ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY 
#1 diesel and than MOST #2."
  
  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...


I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with 
fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took 
out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but that 
can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that 
exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in 
the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. Their 
facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes high tech OT

[andrew strasfogel]

We definitely need an updated punchline for this joke!

How about "A Bush/Cheney duet singing "-"  (fill in the blanks).



On 4/6/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > One day a couple ran a red light and nearly creamed my new car, but  I
> > swerved just in time to avoid them.
> >
> > "A--holes!" I yelled.
> >
> > The French National Anthem began to play, sung by Jane Fonda
> and  Michael
> > Moore, backed up by John Kerry on guitar, Al Gore on Drums and
> Bill  Clinton on
> > sax
> >
> > I love this car!!!
> >
> > Just a joke, no flames please.
> >
>
> Last time I heard that one, it was Rush Limbaugh. ;)
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[R A Bennell]

I have not cornered my 115 hard enough to really test the adhesion of the wheel 
covers but I have to say that the
Mercedes wheelcovers do have what appears to be a good method of holding them 
onto the wheel. I had the car
safetied before I bought it and my brother in law was the mechanic who did  it 
for me. I specifically recall his
commenting that I was not likely to lose any of the wheelcovers when he was 
reinstalling them after looking at the
brakes.

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 12:30 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims


Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it "cute").

Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering? I know that
this happens on a lot of cars, and it's why police cars would always
have "hubcaps" (just covering the middle of the wheel), rather than
"wheel covers" which cover the whole diameter, attaching to the outer
lip of wheel (and thus are succeptible to popping off under wheel
flex).

I know on that old TV commercial that was posted to the list some time
ago, that orange 300D was cornering at the limits of its capability,
and the wheel covers stayed on. Unless I'm forgetting and it had
bundts. Or unless they sneakily adhered them to the wheels in
preparation for the handling demonstration.

Brian
83 240D

On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Personally I prefer steel wheels and
> hubcaps.
>

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes high tech OT

[David Brodbeck]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
One day a couple ran a red light and nearly creamed my new car, but  I 
swerved just in time to avoid them. 
 
"A--holes!" I yelled. 
 
The French National Anthem began to play, sung by Jane Fonda and  Michael 
Moore, backed up by John Kerry on guitar, Al Gore on Drums and Bill  Clinton on 
sax 
 
I love this car!!!
 
Just a joke, no flames please.
  


Last time I heard that one, it was Rush Limbaugh. ;)

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[David Brodbeck]

Christopher McCann wrote:
"ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY 
#1 diesel and than MOST #2."
  
  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...
  


Yup.  This turned out to be more difficult than expected.  The original 
idea was that it would be added at the refinery.  Then the pipeline 
companies discovered that the lubricity agent left a residue in their 
pipes.  They refused to ship fuel doctored with it, because the residue 
could contaminate jet fuel that gets sent through the same pipe.  That 
means the lubricity additive has to be added at every terminal.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[David Brodbeck]

John Berryman wrote:
	The Mohawk valley is a pipeline for snow. I live about 70 miles  
North of Albany and historically we get lower temps and less snow.
	Find Old Forge and Tugg Hill Plateau on a map and see if you can  
figure out why it is the "snowmobiling capital of the world"
  


I went to college in Houghton, Michigan, in the northern part of the 
upper peninsula.  Lake Superior keeps the temperatures from getting as 
low as they do in northern Minnesota, but it also generates a lot of 
lake effect snow.  The worst of it tends to be around Marquette and 
Munising, but the first winter I was up there, Houghton got over 200 inches.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[David Brodbeck]

archer wrote:
A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake dust and 
not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying them 
with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.
  


In that vein, I've had reasonably good results at removing light 
accumulations by spraying the wheels with cheap parts store wheel 
cleaner just before driving through a self-serve automatic car wash.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[David Brodbeck]

Zoltan Finks wrote:

Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it "cute").
  


Are the Mercedes alloy wheels really much lighter than the steelies?  On 
some cars, the OEM alloys are actually heavier than stamped steel wheels.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[David Brodbeck]

John M McIntosh wrote:
Still I have to wonder if you buy a XP CD who does the support for  
you? Usually isn't that covered by

the poor hardware vendor?
  


If you buy a retail boxed copy, you get support directly from 
Microsoft.  That's one of the reasons you pay a premium to get it that way.


If you buy the OEM edition, a little flat package with a peel-off 
sticker to put on the case, YOU have just become the hardware vendor and 
you're on your own.



David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[John Berryman]

On Apr 6, 2006, at 1:16 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:


Correction: Sulfur lubricates NOTHING! When refining to remove sulfur
from the fuel, often other fractions that are lubricants are also
removed. Unless they are replaced (they often weren't when low sulfur
diesel was first produced) the fuel will have less lubricity. #1  
diesel

has the same sulfur content as #2 but #1 has MUCH, MUCH poorer
lubricity. ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than  
ANY

#1 diesel and than MOST #2.

Marshall


I stand corrected.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Zoltan Finks]

Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it "cute").

Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering? I know that
this happens on a lot of cars, and it's why police cars would always
have "hubcaps" (just covering the middle of the wheel), rather than
"wheel covers" which cover the whole diameter, attaching to the outer
lip of wheel (and thus are succeptible to popping off under wheel
flex).

I know on that old TV commercial that was posted to the list some time
ago, that orange 300D was cornering at the limits of its capability,
and the wheel covers stayed on. Unless I'm forgetting and it had
bundts. Or unless they sneakily adhered them to the wheels in
preparation for the handling demonstration.

Brian
83 240D

On 4/5/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Personally I prefer steel wheels and
> hubcaps.
>

> At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
> >I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned
> >up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some
> >places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with,
> >to keep from making it worse?  I know about the "clean wheels" but have
> >heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok
> >if slotted..another said if one has a habit of "riding" the brakes while
> >driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3
> >- 4 times a week..
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >Rhonald
> >1985 300D
> >Black/Palomino
> >290,000 miles
> >Washington, DC
> >
> >
> >
> >___
> >http://www.striplin.net
> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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>
>
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Christopher McCann]

"ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY 
#1 diesel and than MOST #2."
  
  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  John Berryman wrote:
> On Apr 6, 2006, at 11:49 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:
> 
>> So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST  
>> fuel?  engine oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could  
>> be...I'm  probably wrong, but would like a little more info/ 
>> confirmation.
> 
>  The parts of the pump that come in contact with the fuel are  
> lubricated by the sulphur in the fuel. There is no mixing (or rather  
> shouldn't be any mixing) of motor oil with fuel. Most of the IP is  
> lubed by motor oil. Viewing a cut-away of an IP may help you  
> comprehend the above statement.

Correction: Sulfur lubricates NOTHING! When refining to remove sulfur 
from the fuel, often other fractions that are lubricants are also 
removed. Unless they are replaced (they often weren't when low sulfur 
diesel was first produced) the fuel will have less lubricity. #1 diesel 
has the same sulfur content as #2 but #1 has MUCH, MUCH poorer 
lubricity. ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY 
#1 diesel and than MOST #2.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
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X-List-Received-Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2006 17:18:18 -

Jabba,

The reason Toronto is warmer is that we get a lake heat effect, whereas 
Barffalo gets a snow lake effect. The lake acts as a giant heat sink and 
on cold winter mornings you can see the heat rising off the lake. With 
the prevailing winds here it picks up heat and the city traps it as all 
cities do with heat.

In summer you get the reverse effect. It is usually a few degrees cooler 
at the lake.

Most times I've been to NYC in winter it's been colder than us here.

Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD

Re: [MBZ] Spotted 190E for sale

[Alex Chamberlain]

I can't see this thread title without picturing a 201 painted like a
Dalmatian!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] Spotted 190E for sale

[Zoltan Finks]

You're right. I forgot. But I thought y'all knew me so well, that
you'd remember where I live! :)

Brian

On 4/6/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > If anyone is SERIOUSLY interested, I could ask the guy. But
> > otherwise, I don't think I'd feel like hassling him.
>
> And why is it that everybody always forgets to say _where_
> these morsels are, because location, location, location
> really enters into the picture.
>
> (And no, I'm not personally interested.)
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

repair does *not* have to look pretty - it can be kept with a 
carpet/mat and

never been seen.


The same mat that is largely responsible for the initial rust comes to 
mind!



can't recall if it produces toxic fumes or poor/weak welds (one or the
other) so don't buy any galvanized sheetmetal from Lowes, etc.


Perhaps both.  For sure the vaporized zinc is _not_ good for you, at 
all.


Gump is just nice enough that it ought to be worth finding out the
actual price of the 'right' way to fix it, before going down any
other path.  There is _nothing_ more satisfying than welded metal,
even if you do have to have somebody else do it!

The Frankenheap is much too far gone to waste any real money on, welding
on flattened tin cans, etc. is by far the cheapest patch there is.
But what a fine beater it makes!  I'm looking forward to driving it
again, once the 240D leaves us.  (Or at least once its second tank
of fuel is largely consumed.  We had to fill it again to check the
mileage after the big road trip, but I want to get my $110 back out
of it before it goes.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Jim Cathey]

Where do you plan to market it?


Thought I'd start with the Spokane, Seattle, and Portland Craig's lists.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Christopher McCann]

Will dig up a diagram.
  
  FYI, the sulphur is not what lubricates. The process which removes the  
sulphur destroys the lubriciity. I've heard this before (from  Stanadyne) and 
the Chevron website makes the same point. ADDING sulphur  to ULSD will NOT help 
lubricty, so if some yahoo  comes along  selling sulphur additive, it's 
snake-oil, so to speak.
  
  Chris

John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  
On Apr 6, 2006, at 11:49 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:

> So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST  
> fuel?  engine oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could  
> be...I'm  probably wrong, but would like a little more info/ 
> confirmation.

 The parts of the pump that come in contact with the fuel are  
lubricated by the sulphur in the fuel. There is no mixing (or rather  
shouldn't be any mixing) of motor oil with fuel. Most of the IP is  
lubed by motor oil. Viewing a cut-away of an IP may help you  
comprehend the above statement.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
starting at 1¢/min.
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> http://www.kkmfg.com/catalogs.php

But no 115 parts there.  I got my 107 trunk floor from the dealer.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Damn, it's cold

[Sunil Hari]

for that kind of hardship tour, did you get your choice of subsequent duty
stations?

On 4/6/06, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Sunil, I was USAF Director of Engineering at Sondrestrom Air Base, Grnlnd,
> Feb 78-Feb 79.
>
> Wilton
>
>
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[R A Bennell]

Maybe because a lot of Italy is mountainous and the general idea is to drive 
hard going uphill? Or maybe, trying to
make your poor old diesel move like a Ferrari?

Randy B

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:36 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup


Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.
FWIW

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Gallagher
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 10:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup


Why is the word " Italian " used to cure a problem? Can *4r&3$ be used
to cause the problem in the first place???

Bill
1981 300 TD
Not a Italian 

archer wrote:
> You might have something there.  I knew a farmer who used his old 200D

> to
> take as many bags of feed as the car would hold to his cattle way out
in the
> field.  He took the seats out and piled feed sacks up to the roof and
in the
> trunk.  He started using it because his pickup truck kept breaking
> suspension parts.  The 200D never broke anything.
> GerryA
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>> Toss a bunch of sand bags into the trunk and then try to reach
>> highway speeds.  Might have a few in the rear foot wells.  400 lb
>> ought to give the car a work out.
>>
>
>
 archer wrote:

> Steve Auto Clinics in Zambia have a long and seemingly thorough
> discussion of EGT versus engine life:
> http://www.steves.co.za/Engine_Protection_Units_1.html
>
>> From reading it I get the impression that the typical Italian
>> Tuneup might
>>
> be somewhat risky.
>
 I've NEVER heard of an unmodified Mercedes diesel "burning" up from

 running at permissible loads. If it's dangerous, Mercedes either
 prevents it or tells you to NOT do it. All of the "melted" engines
 I know of came after people defeated the systems that controlled
 power output.

 I've NEVER heard of a Mercedes turbodiesel burning up from running
 flat out and I've driven dozens of 'em that way.!

 Marshall

>>> ---
>>> In a previous article about Italian tuneups you wrote:
>>>
>>> ...The chain stretch should be below 5 degrees or so, the
>>> valves should be properly adjusted, the air and fuel filters should
>>> be verifiably
>>> clean, and there should be clean and it would probably be best if
the
>>> injection pump timing is known to be pretty close to correct (within
a
>>> couple of degrees).
>>> http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/italian/
>>>
>>> If one or all of these conditions are not met, does that mean a
>>> turbodiesel "could" self destruct in your opinion?
>>>
>>> Note:  I'm not trying to prove you wrong by any means.  I'm simply
>>> trying to work out a method whereby those of us who are a long way
>>> from mountain grades can do the equivalent of an Italian tuneup.
>>> Some of us on this group
>>> cannot "afford" to blow up an engine, but we would still like to
make
>>> our
>>> engines run better and more economically.
>>>
>>> Gerry Archer
>>>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Marshall Booth]

John Berryman wrote:

On Apr 6, 2006, at 11:49 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:

So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST  
fuel?  engine oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could  
be...I'm  probably wrong, but would like a little more info/ 
confirmation.


	The parts of the pump that come in contact with the fuel are  
lubricated by the sulphur in the fuel. There is no mixing (or rather  
shouldn't be any mixing) of motor oil with fuel. Most of the IP is  
lubed by motor oil. Viewing a cut-away of an IP may help you  
comprehend the above statement.


Correction: Sulfur lubricates NOTHING! When refining to remove sulfur 
from the fuel, often other fractions that are lubricants are also 
removed. Unless they are replaced (they often weren't when low sulfur 
diesel was first produced) the fuel will have less lubricity. #1 diesel 
has the same sulfur content as #2 but #1 has MUCH, MUCH poorer 
lubricity. ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY 
#1 diesel and than MOST #2.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST fuel?  engine 
oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could be...I'm  probably wrong, 
but would like a little more info/confirmation.
  
  Is there ANYTHING we need to concern ourselves about regarding ULSD?


People in California have been using ULSD for several years now in both 
old and new Mercedes diesels and there have been NO problems. Same in 
Europe for even longer.


The Bosch mechanical injection pump design has ample lubriction when 
pumping #2 diesel, #1 diesel OR even gasoline!! All of the mechanical 
gasoline pumps from the '50 thru the early '70s were essentially the 
same design. The only thing that USLD MIGHT cause trouble with in a 
Mercedes are seals and "rubber" hose. Most that have been in place for 
20 years will be fine as will the newest ones, but some small percentage 
MAY fail if the formulation of the fuel and it's seal swelling 
properties aren't perfect. Not really very different problems than 
switching to Bio or Veggie fuel, except the problems with ULSD are 
rather minor in severity.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] Mercedes high tech OT

[JFreezn]

 
 
Subject: A New Car 



This was  sent to me today. 
 
I just got my new Mercedes 500 SL, and I returned to the dealer the  next day 
with the complaint that I couldn't figure out how the radio worked. The  
salesman explained that the radio was voice activated. 
 
"Watch this!" he said. "Nelson!"  The radio replied, "Ricky or  Willie?" 
 
"Willie," he continued  and then "On The Road Again" came from  the 
speakers. 
 
I drove away happy, and for the next few days, every time I'd say,  
"Beethoven!" I'd get beautiful classical music, and if I said, "Beatles!" I'd  
get one 
of their awesome songs. 
 
One day a couple ran a red light and nearly creamed my new car, but  I 
swerved just in time to avoid them. 
 
"A--holes!" I yelled. 
 
The French National Anthem began to play, sung by Jane Fonda and  Michael 
Moore, backed up by John Kerry on guitar, Al Gore on Drums and Bill  Clinton on 
sax 
 
I love this car!!!
 
Just a joke, no flames please.
 
Jim in Phoenix

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[John Berryman]

On Apr 6, 2006, at 11:49 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:

So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST  
fuel?  engine oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could  
be...I'm  probably wrong, but would like a little more info/ 
confirmation.


	The parts of the pump that come in contact with the fuel are  
lubricated by the sulphur in the fuel. There is no mixing (or rather  
shouldn't be any mixing) of motor oil with fuel. Most of the IP is  
lubed by motor oil. Viewing a cut-away of an IP may help you  
comprehend the above statement.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[John Berryman]

On Apr 6, 2006, at 10:48 AM, Levi Smith wrote:


I'd say you are correct, but that Rochester isn't even that well known
for the lake effect snow.  (not that it doesn't get it, but I don't
think it holds a candle to the buffalo area).
I live near Corning which is more south of Rochester and my in-laws  
live

between Jamestown, NY and Erie, PA which is mostly South of Buffalo.
There's almost a visible line you cross somewhere around Salamanca,
where suddenly you're in the REAL snow belt in the winter.


	The Mohawk valley is a pipeline for snow. I live about 70 miles  
North of Albany and historically we get lower temps and less snow.
	Find Old Forge and Tugg Hill Plateau on a map and see if you can  
figure out why it is the "snowmobiling capital of the world"


Can we talk about Spring soon, please?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

[Christopher McCann]

So there is NO moving part in an IP that is lubricated with JUST fuel?  engine 
oil lubricates everything? Cant't see how that could be...I'm  probably wrong, 
but would like a little more info/confirmation.
  
  Is there ANYTHING we need to concern ourselves about regarding ULSD?
  
  Thanks!
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> excellent links! thanks!
>   
>   "Vehicles not specifically designed for use with S15 (ULSD) may use either 
> S15 (ULSD) or S500 (500 ppm) diesel."
>   
>   So does this mean that we will actually be able to find S500 pumps around? 
> That would be great.
>   
>   If not, will a constant use of a lubricity additive be needed?

By 2009 (I think) there will be NO S500!

What are you trying to lubricate? Mercedes pumps don't need any more 
lubrication then the motor oil provides.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk
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> http://www.kkmfg.com/catalogs.php


Marshall
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   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Harry Watkins]

Where do you plan to market it?

Harry


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Pulled the hood ornament.  Looking at the manual, the old epoxied POS,
> and the (partial) new star I now see what the huge spring to the
> bottom of the grille is about: the locking collar is missing (on both
> ornament assemblies!) and the heavy spring is what's holding the whole
> mess in.  The old assembly had its heavier (of two) springs moved from
> the inside of the spring retainer cup to the outside of it (below),
> and the inner spring was extended and had a cotter pin through it to
> pin the outer spring in place.  (The relocated spring is what normally
> puts tension on the star itself so that it stays wherever it's moved
> to in its socket, but its lack wasn't felt because the socket was
> epoxied together, presumably as part of holding on a snapped-off
> star.)  Then the whole mess was spring-loaded down into the grille's
> hole by the long heavy spring.  Without the locking collar what else
> can you do?  I ended up just moving the old outer spring to the same
> place on the new (resulting in two outer springs, one inside the
> retaining cup and one outside) and used a piece of framing nail to pin
> it in place through the inner spring's hook as before.  Then the whole
> mess was loaded into the grille's hole and tied down with the long
> spring, just as before.
> 
> Highly inelegant, but functional.  And it looks just fine from
> outside.  If someday a retaining clip turned up it could easily be
> made right as no harm has been done to anything, so that's OK, but it
> seems just fine to me as it is.
> 
> Done!  Have I said that lately?  Thanks to Kevin, for
> Erik the half-a-star!
> 
> Now I just need to wait for the weather to clear enough to wash
> the car again and take the pictures.  Then it goes up for sale.
> 
> -- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Curt Raymond]

Nah for anything structural you need steel, I was thinking of POR15 for just 
the bottom of a trunk thats a little holey. They've actually got a "trunk 
repair kit" thats like a quart of the paint with the associated cleaning 
chemicals and some fiberglass matte.
   
  You can't buy trunk replacement parts? Isn't there somebody else on the list 
going through that right now?
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 21:09:17 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Will POR-15 build up enough for rejoining the two halves of sheet into 
one?  I suspect that it wants to be a bearing piece not just cosmetic.  
 From the muck I ground up while dealing with the rust, I think after 
one fender bender or trunk crunch, it was coated with spray 
undercoating.  Not that it helped.  It just made is sticky.



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Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:58:09 -0700 (PDT)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup
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I'd always assumed it had something to do with the legendary "ehh, whatever" 
Italian work ethic...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 07:52:27 -0400
From: John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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On Apr 6, 2006, at 7:35 AM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

> Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
> given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.
> FWIW
>
> Dwight Giles, Jr


 It has already been dubbed Italian Tune-Up in the early days of  
these forums. Ever been to Italy?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



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Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[Levi Smith]

I'd say you are correct, but that Rochester isn't even that well known 
for the lake effect snow.  (not that it doesn't get it, but I don't 
think it holds a candle to the buffalo area).
I live near Corning which is more south of Rochester and my in-laws live 
between Jamestown, NY and Erie, PA which is mostly South of Buffalo. 
There's almost a visible line you cross somewhere around Salamanca, 
where suddenly you're in the REAL snow belt in the winter.  Which 
usually means that even with the traffic, the highway is covered, you 
have a hard time seeing anything but driving snow, and it usually comes 
down about 12 inches at a time.  (as opposed to this side of that line 
where it seems to come down a couple inches at a time).


Levi (:

andrew strasfogel wrote:

I thought Rochester NY was known more for its localized lake-effect
blizzards than record-breaking cold.

On 4/6/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Yeah, I forgot about the "frosty beard" effect as well, though that's
"usually" snow instead of snot.  (:
I remember one time (I don't even think it was THAT cold at the time) I
was getting a little worried as the snow was blowing in my face and I
was squinting, it was literally freezing my eyelashes together...

Levi (:

lee wrote:


On Thursday 06 April 2006 7:55, Curt Raymond wrote:



At -20F don't inhale through your mouth, thats a prescription for a
coughing fit.



Been there a few times in Detroit. I have seen -60 with the wind chill,


and it


was unpleasantly cold. I worked in commercial blast freezers for a


couple of


years, and it was not as bad as a bad winter day in Detroit.

Inhaling through the mouth is bad, inhaling through your nose means you


can


feel the moisture in your nose and airway freeze and crackle almost


instantly


(probably TMI for some.) Breath tends to condense in facial hair and


freeze,


and if the cold makes your nose run, you have snotsickles. Stepping back
indoors, if you wear glasses, means that moisture will immediately


condense


on them and freeze.

Lee

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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

[Jim Cathey]

Pulled the hood ornament.  Looking at the manual, the old epoxied POS,
and the (partial) new star I now see what the huge spring to the
bottom of the grille is about: the locking collar is missing (on both
ornament assemblies!) and the heavy spring is what's holding the whole
mess in.  The old assembly had its heavier (of two) springs moved from
the inside of the spring retainer cup to the outside of it (below),
and the inner spring was extended and had a cotter pin through it to
pin the outer spring in place.  (The relocated spring is what normally
puts tension on the star itself so that it stays wherever it's moved
to in its socket, but its lack wasn't felt because the socket was
epoxied together, presumably as part of holding on a snapped-off
star.)  Then the whole mess was spring-loaded down into the grille's
hole by the long heavy spring.  Without the locking collar what else
can you do?  I ended up just moving the old outer spring to the same
place on the new (resulting in two outer springs, one inside the
retaining cup and one outside) and used a piece of framing nail to pin
it in place through the inner spring's hook as before.  Then the whole
mess was loaded into the grille's hole and tied down with the long
spring, just as before.

Highly inelegant, but functional.  And it looks just fine from
outside.  If someday a retaining clip turned up it could easily be
made right as no harm has been done to anything, so that's OK, but it
seems just fine to me as it is.

Done!  Have I said that lately?  Thanks to Kevin, for
Erik the half-a-star!

Now I just need to wait for the weather to clear enough to wash
the car again and take the pictures.  Then it goes up for sale.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] MBZ] Request for 124 EPC data

[Zeitgeist]

Wowza!  That's exactly what I needed.  It's a regular karmic cavalcade
around your place.

On 4/5/06, Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Only thing I see that looks remotely plausible, Casey, is 201 998 17
> 78, except the parts bible lists 5 ea for each rear door, total 10.
>
> Attached & stripped fr list copy is a screenshot that should show it
> all - if you can figure it out.
>
> My karma's all warm & fuzzy now.
>
> joe
>
>
>


--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[andrew strasfogel]

I thought Rochester NY was known more for its localized lake-effect
blizzards than record-breaking cold.

On 4/6/06, Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I forgot about the "frosty beard" effect as well, though that's
> "usually" snow instead of snot.  (:
> I remember one time (I don't even think it was THAT cold at the time) I
> was getting a little worried as the snow was blowing in my face and I
> was squinting, it was literally freezing my eyelashes together...
>
> Levi (:
>
> lee wrote:
> > On Thursday 06 April 2006 7:55, Curt Raymond wrote:
> >
> >>At -20F don't inhale through your mouth, thats a prescription for a
> >>coughing fit.
> >>
> >
> > Been there a few times in Detroit. I have seen -60 with the wind chill,
> and it
> > was unpleasantly cold. I worked in commercial blast freezers for a
> couple of
> > years, and it was not as bad as a bad winter day in Detroit.
> >
> > Inhaling through the mouth is bad, inhaling through your nose means you
> can
> > feel the moisture in your nose and airway freeze and crackle almost
> instantly
> > (probably TMI for some.) Breath tends to condense in facial hair and
> freeze,
> > and if the cold makes your nose run, you have snotsickles. Stepping back
> > indoors, if you wear glasses, means that moisture will immediately
> condense
> > on them and freeze.
> >
> > Lee
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

Re: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re: We can all just throw our Macs away

[Curt Raymond]

You've not delt with all that many Macs then...
   
  The early G5s were absolutely horrible, failure rates of easily 30% right out 
of the box.
  The same was true with the early MDD G4s. Oh did I mention that the MDD G4s 
were backwards? The heat of the processors rose into the expansion cards? 
Anybody who made an expansion card needed to provide a fan kit or risk ruining 
the motherboard on the machine.
  Then lets talk about the cube. Remember the cube? I watch one get hit with a 
gust of cold air once when somebody opened the window, that 30F air hit the 
case and it split right open...
  iBook motherboards are prone to failure as are the crappy powersupply 
connectors on the pre-G3 powerbooks.
   
  I'll admit Apple makes fine hardware that you pay a PREMIUM for but my 
experience an HP workstation (like an xw8000 or xw8200) is every bit as rugged. 
HP also has just as good a return policy for the worstation models, in many 
cases better because they'll send a tech onsite for the repair. The PC 
workstations also adopted PCI-X and PCIe technology earlier, supported IDE 100 
and 133 drives, SCSI 320 and proper support of multiple processors earlier. 
Supported standard monitor types (Apple has had at least 3 mostly proprietary 
monitor connectors now), standardized keyboard and mouse connections and 
finally multiple button mice.
   
  All that and I still like Apple. The best laptops ever, despite what 
Powerbook and iBook people will tell you, was made by Sun. They named it the 
Turtle which was a stupid marketing move...
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 19:19:41 -0500
From: Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re:  We can all just throw our Macs away
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Gee, now I can run a slower, buggier, virus infested self destroying OS 
on my Mac!

Hurrah!

Back to OS 9 for me (hehe).

Next big hack is going to be the killer, though -- the software 
work-around to run OS X on a PC!  Now that I could go for!

Note to the uninitiated -- I have NEVER had a board or component 
failure on a Mac (up to 15 years old) other than on monitor blowing and 
a dead MB from repeated lightening strikes on my phone line, and in 
that case I only lost the serial ports, everything else works fine!

Peter



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
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Yeah, I forgot about the "frosty beard" effect as well, though that's 
"usually" snow instead of snot.  (:
I remember one time (I don't even think it was THAT cold at the time) I 
was getting a little worried as the snow was bl

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[lee]

On Thursday 06 April 2006 7:55, Curt Raymond wrote:
> At -20F don't inhale through your mouth, thats a prescription for a
> coughing fit.
>
Been there a few times in Detroit. I have seen -60 with the wind chill, and it 
was unpleasantly cold. I worked in commercial blast freezers for a couple of 
years, and it was not as bad as a bad winter day in Detroit. 

Inhaling through the mouth is bad, inhaling through your nose means you can 
feel the moisture in your nose and airway freeze and crackle almost instantly 
(probably TMI for some.) Breath tends to condense in facial hair and freeze, 
and if the cold makes your nose run, you have snotsickles. Stepping back 
indoors, if you wear glasses, means that moisture will immediately condense 
on them and freeze. 

Lee

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[Gary Hurst]

buffalo is on a different lake altogether

i grew up in NYC and have spent time in rochester.  rochester is MUCH
colder.  not sure how you figure toronto would be warmer


On 4/5/06, Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The beauty of living in Toronto is that we have a huge heat source right
> at the south end of the city so even though we're farther north, we're
> almost always warmer than NYC 500 miles south!
>
> Buffalo on the other hand, is on the wrong side of the lake and gets 10
> times the snow and cold that we do!
>
> Jeff Zedic
> Toronto
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel

[Curt Raymond]

At -20F don't inhale through your mouth, thats a prescription for a coughing 
fit.
   
  I was born in Caribou, Maine where the week I was born (Feb 7) it never got 
above -20F. I own 85 acres up there with a little camp on it. My wife and I 
always talk about going up in the winter to go snowmobiling but the camp 
doesn't have any insulation in the roof or floor, at -20F I expect it'd be 
MIGHTY tough to keep warm.
  Oh my sleeping bag is good to -15F and I'm sure if I put it in another bag 
I'd be fine its the time it takes to get up in the night and go pee I'd be 
worried about...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 15:53:45 -0400
From: Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Damn it's cold was veggie fuel
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Kinda like when you have to worry about the oil in your differential 
freezing solid so that it physically won't move even with the engine's 
power, or if you shut the door too hard your paint falls off.  (:
Those are just anecdotes I've heard from people.

Personally, the coldest I've done is way north, NY (Canton area, right 
next to Canada) where it periodically hits 20 below and occasionally 40 
below (F).  It feels cold here at 15 degrees, but at 20-40 below, it 
gets to where that first inhalation walking out the door kinda hurts, 
and you get an instant chill up your pantleg.  And you hope your door 
locks will still move.  (I would have been worried about the engine 
starting were I not using Mobil 1).  Most people just leave their cars 
running at the store when it's that cold.

So I bet I've been through colder than "most" of the typical U.S., but 
I'm no where's near the worst of it.  (:

Levi



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Subject: [MBZ] Damn, it's cold
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Sunil, I was USAF Director of Engineering at Sondrestrom Air Base, Grnlnd,
Feb 78-Feb 79.

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[Jim Cathey]

Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.


Not at all, a German tune-up requires the ministrations of Dieter
and an open wallet.  ("Der blinkenhoffer ist out of spec. five
nanohotzens, und sie need a new one...")


It has already been dubbed Italian Tune-Up in the early days of
these forums. Ever been to Italy?


Early days everywhere.  So-named because it's the only way to
keep a temperamental high-strung beast (Ferrari, etc.) running
well.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Spotted 190E for sale

[Dave Wakin]

Johnson, Nancy

856 11-1/2 St SW
Rochester, MN 55902

Courtesy of anywho.com's reverse lookup feature.

Dave W



If anyone is SERIOUSLY interested, I could ask the guy. But
otherwise, I don't think I'd feel like hassling him.


And why is it that everybody always forgets to say _where_
these morsels are, because location, location, location
really enters into the picture.

(And no, I'm not personally interested.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[Mike Canfield]

Once the wheels are clean try rubbing them with a fabric softener dryer 
sheet to keep them clean and free of brake dust.  Seems the anti;static 
"stuff" works well.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims



A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake dust and
not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying them
with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.
GerryA

- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



I also really like S100 wheel cleaner.  Still have some from the
beemer.  Works well for regular cleaning, not heavy accumulations.
Spray on, let is soak and wash off.

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 09:18 PM, redghost wrote:


Bead blast is the operative phrase.  Do not, repeat DO NOT sand blast
or garnet or ... just use glass to get the old paint off, then do a
good rattle can paint job.  The sand will pit the wheels and you will
then end up purchasing new ones.

I have used a paint solvent and some elbow grease to clean a few sets
of wheel.  It takes time, but you get a really good feel for the wheel
and then  you can rattle can paint.  About $40 worth of paint and a few
days to let it cure and you have really nice looking wheels again.

There is another product for dealing with brake dust on wheels.  Comes
in a silver spray bottle and there are formulas for all manner of metal
wheel.  It is solvent specific to the metal of the wheel.  Eagle One.
Etching stuff.  Make sure you get the right stuff, or you may as well
use brake cleaner.  Spray on, hose off.  I used it on bundts that I had
stripped of paint, but the build up on the back side was just too
thick.  This got it down to metal after a bit of elbow grease and wire
wheel.



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Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[John Berryman]

On Apr 6, 2006, at 7:35 AM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:


Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.
FWIW

Dwight Giles, Jr



	It has already been dubbed Italian Tune-Up in the early days of  
these forums. Ever been to Italy?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] VPC (was: We can all just throw our Macs away)

[John Berryman]

On Apr 6, 2006, at 1:27 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


 Windows hates me


But OS X loves me.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Good question-I have thought that German tune up is more appropriate,
given the autobahns and the legendary speeds there.
FWIW

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Gallagher
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 10:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup


Why is the word " Italian " used to cure a problem? Can *4r&3$ be used 
to cause the problem in the first place???

Bill
1981 300 TD
Not a Italian 

archer wrote:
> You might have something there.  I knew a farmer who used his old 200D

> to
> take as many bags of feed as the car would hold to his cattle way out
in the 
> field.  He took the seats out and piled feed sacks up to the roof and
in the 
> trunk.  He started using it because his pickup truck kept breaking 
> suspension parts.  The 200D never broke anything.
> GerryA
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   
>> Toss a bunch of sand bags into the trunk and then try to reach 
>> highway speeds.  Might have a few in the rear foot wells.  400 lb 
>> ought to give the car a work out.
>> 
>
>   
 archer wrote:
 
> Steve Auto Clinics in Zambia have a long and seemingly thorough 
> discussion of EGT versus engine life:
> http://www.steves.co.za/Engine_Protection_Units_1.html
>   
>> From reading it I get the impression that the typical Italian 
>> Tuneup might
>> 
> be somewhat risky.
>   
 I've NEVER heard of an unmodified Mercedes diesel "burning" up from

 running at permissible loads. If it's dangerous, Mercedes either 
 prevents it or tells you to NOT do it. All of the "melted" engines 
 I know of came after people defeated the systems that controlled 
 power output.

 I've NEVER heard of a Mercedes turbodiesel burning up from running 
 flat out and I've driven dozens of 'em that way.!

 Marshall
 
>>> ---
>>> In a previous article about Italian tuneups you wrote:
>>>
>>> ...The chain stretch should be below 5 degrees or so, the 
>>> valves should be properly adjusted, the air and fuel filters should 
>>> be verifiably
>>> clean, and there should be clean and it would probably be best if
the
>>> injection pump timing is known to be pretty close to correct (within
a
>>> couple of degrees).
>>> http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/italian/
>>>
>>> If one or all of these conditions are not met, does that mean a 
>>> turbodiesel "could" self destruct in your opinion?
>>>
>>> Note:  I'm not trying to prove you wrong by any means.  I'm simply 
>>> trying to work out a method whereby those of us who are a long way 
>>> from mountain grades can do the equivalent of an Italian tuneup.  
>>> Some of us on this group
>>> cannot "afford" to blow up an engine, but we would still like to
make
>>> our
>>> engines run better and more economically.
>>>
>>> Gerry Archer
>>>   
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
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>   

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Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[archer]

A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake dust and 
not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying them 
with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.

GerryA

- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



I also really like S100 wheel cleaner.  Still have some from the
beemer.  Works well for regular cleaning, not heavy accumulations.
Spray on, let is soak and wash off.

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 09:18 PM, redghost wrote:


Bead blast is the operative phrase.  Do not, repeat DO NOT sand blast
or garnet or ... just use glass to get the old paint off, then do a
good rattle can paint job.  The sand will pit the wheels and you will
then end up purchasing new ones.

I have used a paint solvent and some elbow grease to clean a few sets
of wheel.  It takes time, but you get a really good feel for the wheel
and then  you can rattle can paint.  About $40 worth of paint and a few
days to let it cure and you have really nice looking wheels again.

There is another product for dealing with brake dust on wheels.  Comes
in a silver spray bottle and there are formulas for all manner of metal
wheel.  It is solvent specific to the metal of the wheel.  Eagle One.
Etching stuff.  Make sure you get the right stuff, or you may as well
use brake cleaner.  Spray on, hose off.  I used it on bundts that I had
stripped of paint, but the build up on the back side was just too
thick.  This got it down to metal after a bit of elbow grease and wire
wheel.

Re: [MBZ] VPC (was: We can all just throw our Macs away)

[Jim Cathey]

Humph.  I wonder what's wrong with my setup.  I have VPC 5 running on 
a 1
Ghz G4 with 1.5 Gb of RAM and OS X 10.3, and Win98 is unusably slow.  
Like

you click a menu title and count the seconds until it drops down.


I believe VPC 6 is faster than 5, and by more than a bit.  I'm
using VPC6 on a 233 MHz G3 with 384MB RAM, running 10.2.8, hosting
W2k, and it's not (quite) that bad.  Usually.  But once you're
into the EPC or WIS it's fine.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

Don't forget to raid the Goodwill for broken microwaves!  ;)


St. Vinnie's is much better for that sort of thing.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Spotted 190E for sale

[Jim Cathey]

If anyone is SERIOUSLY interested, I could ask the guy. But
otherwise, I don't think I'd feel like hassling him.


And why is it that everybody always forgets to say _where_
these morsels are, because location, location, location
really enters into the picture.

(And no, I'm not personally interested.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[Zoltan Finks]

When I heard the news on the radio today, I knew lots of people would get
all worked up.

Mac vs. PC reminds me of the Mopar vs. Chevy war that raged in my circles
growing up.

As a graphic artist, I have used lots of Macs, but some years ago it seems
PCs became capable enough to do everything I need to do. So I don't feel
much loyalty either way. To me, a computer is a tool - I have never
understood the passion.

Well, actually, I may begin to understand when I think of the war in terms
of cars. I would throw down in defense of Mopars as a kid. I hated Chevys.
And Fords did not often even enter the conversation. Guess everyone needs
something to root for. Look at avid sports fans, heck, even young gang
members. We need something that allows us to say, "Hey, this is mine, this
is who I am, you got a problem with that?"

Brian
Feeling philosophical tonight

On 4/6/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
> P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
> runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
> about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram
>
> On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:21 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> >> He needs to run winders for FEMA, but prefers to work efficiently the
> >> rest
> >> of the time.  I have been drooling over the macbooks for some time
> >> now.
> >
> > And why not run VPC (or equivalent) instead?  No dual-booting involved,
> > and the PC junk is never in control enough to be able to hammer the
> > system, only itself.  Plenty fast enough for a whole lot of uses.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

[MBZ] Spotted 190E for sale

[Zoltan Finks]

Out walking the pooch tonight, I  saw a 190E for sale. I have seen this
thing parked in the driveway of its house for some time now, but tonight is
the first time I've seen it out on the street for sale. I don't know the
seller, or anything about it other than that I could see no body damage at
night, and it appears to be gold in color. I know it's nothing special, just
thought of the list when I saw it. Phone number on the sign is 507-281-2046

Also, I have known for some time about a TE station wagon. 123 chassis. ('m
not sure if they're called TE, I just know the diesels are called TD). It's
also in my neighborhood. It's a 123, and in very rough shape. The rear seems
collapsed, and it has rust, etc. It clearly doesn't run. Owner is a neighbor
of a friend. I've never talked to him. I know that wagons are a bit more
coveted, so I thought I'd mention it. I know he at least used to own a 240D
as well, but I haven't seen it for over a year. If anyone is SERIOUSLY
interested, I could ask the guy. But otherwise, I don't think I'd feel like
hassling him.

Brian
83 240D

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Alex Chamberlain]

Don't forget to raid the Goodwill for broken microwaves!  ;)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

On 4/5/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have no idea of cost, I am going to hit Pacific Iron and see what
> they have in the way of thin sheet metal to form a pan or patch
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:19 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> >> So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?
> >
> > Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
> > What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] VPC (was: We can all just throw our Macs away)

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 4/5/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
> P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
> runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
> about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram



Humph.  I wonder what's wrong with my setup.  I have VPC 5 running on a 1
Ghz G4 with 1.5 Gb of RAM and OS X 10.3, and Win98 is unusably slow.  Like
you click a menu title and count the seconds until it drops down.
Seriously, it's slower than a 386DX25 I used to have to run Windows 3.1 on.
Virus or bad Win98 install or something?  Should I wipe the virtual
partition and start over?  I have been using Macs forever and consider
myself pretty good with them, but Windows hates me and this has me stumped.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
'99 Sawtooth G4, PowerLogix accelerator, Radeon 8500
'98 Lombard G3 PowerBook
Assorted junky sacrificial PCs for specific purposes, like running OBDII
diagnostic software

Re: [MBZ] MBZ] Request for 124 EPC data

[Joe Knight]

Only thing I see that looks remotely plausible, Casey, is 201 998 17
78, except the parts bible lists 5 ea for each rear door, total 10.

Attached & stripped fr list copy is a screenshot that should show it
all - if you can figure it out.

My karma's all warm & fuzzy now.

joe
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Panelling 124.034.pdf
Type: application/pdf
Size: 81430 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060=
405/751face8/Panelling124.034.pdf

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[redghost]

I also really like S100 wheel cleaner.  Still have some from the 
beemer.  Works well for regular cleaning, not heavy accumulations.  
Spray on, let is soak and wash off.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 09:18 PM, redghost wrote:


Bead blast is the operative phrase.  Do not, repeat DO NOT sand blast
or garnet or ... just use glass to get the old paint off, then do a
good rattle can paint job.  The sand will pit the wheels and you will
then end up purchasing new ones.

I have used a paint solvent and some elbow grease to clean a few sets
of wheel.  It takes time, but you get a really good feel for the wheel
and then  you can rattle can paint.  About $40 worth of paint and a few
days to let it cure and you have really nice looking wheels again.

There is another product for dealing with brake dust on wheels.  Comes
in a silver spray bottle and there are formulas for all manner of metal
wheel.  It is solvent specific to the metal of the wheel.  Eagle One.
Etching stuff.  Make sure you get the right stuff, or you may as well
use brake cleaner.  Spray on, hose off.  I used it on bundts that I had
stripped of paint, but the build up on the back side was just too
thick.  This got it down to metal after a bit of elbow grease and wire
wheel.

www.eagleone.com



On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:11 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones.  The last 
2
choices are about the same price.  Personally I prefer steel wheels 
and

hubcaps.

At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote:

I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear
cleaned
up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough
in some
places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them
with,
to keep from making it worse?  I know about the "clean wheels" but
have
heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some
say ok
if slotted..another said if one has a habit of "riding" the brakes
while
driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean
wheels 3
- 4 times a week..



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a 
P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it 
runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem 
about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:21 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


He needs to run winders for FEMA, but prefers to work efficiently the
rest
of the time.  I have been drooling over the macbooks for some time 
now.


And why not run VPC (or equivalent) instead?  No dual-booting involved,
and the PC junk is never in control enough to be able to hammer the
system, only itself.  Plenty fast enough for a whole lot of uses.

-- Jim


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

I have no idea of cost, I am going to hit Pacific Iron and see what 
they have in the way of thin sheet metal to form a pan or patch



On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:19 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?


Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)

-- Jim


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Last CR I looked at did not list a Benz as a best buy, but had a large 
number in the car to avoid


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:45 PM, John M McIntosh wrote:



On 5-Apr-06, at 7:25 PM, George Gregory wrote:


This is true.
And Apple this a disclaimer on its site:

"Word to the Wise

Windows running on a Mac is like Windows running on a PC. That
means it’ll
be subject to the same attacks that plague the Windows world. So be
sure to
keep it updated with the latest Microsoft Windows security fixes."



That's for ignorant macintosh users who've never been exposed to the
Window's trauma of
viruses and pop-up ads extraordinary.

I will also note consumer reports rates apple #1 by a huge percentage
over #2 for hardware
quality & support. So buying a nice mac and *only* running XP or
Vista someday on it wouldn't be
a stupid decision just in order to get nice looking and superb
performing hardware.

Still I have to wonder if you buy a XP CD who does the support for
you? Usually isn't that covered by
the poor hardware vendor?

PS I keep getting whacked by the fact that consumer reports also says
mercedes ranked mucho last
in problems with their cars. Although I point out that a friend
bought a used 2002 C320? wagon which
he still feels after two months of usage the finest automobile he has
driven even compared to every 2006/2007
wagon/crossover vehicle he could get his hands on.

John
1983 300TDt  372k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  164k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 172k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)



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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Those "fixes" are the cause of more trouble with that darn PC

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:25 PM, George Gregory wrote:


On 4/5/06 7:55 PM, "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


A friend of mine tells me that if you want the very fastest notebook
PC you need to get an Intel Macbook and coerce it into doing Windows
or Linux (whatever).  Myself, I think OS X is just fine!

-- Jim


This is true.
And Apple this a disclaimer on its site:

"Word to the Wise

Windows running on a Mac is like Windows running on a PC. That means 
it’ll
be subject to the same attacks that plague the Windows world. So be 
sure to

keep it updated with the latest Microsoft Windows security fixes."

--
+--
GG
1997 SL500 (101k)
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals
+--



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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re: We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Back UP. BACK UP,  back up.  then install a new disk

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:12 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Close!   They said to wipe the drive and reload all the software.  I 
had

already tried any tricks they were aware of before I called.  So, the
activation scheme locks up the computer and you are screwed, because 
Bill

takes the stance that everyone is a thief.   (it was not an OEM
preinstall)  I am not sure how many times it was escalated.   I think 
it

was twice.  I think there were about 8 people involved from MS.  I have
always stayed away from MS support, other than what's online.  Been 
able to
fix everything else one way or another.  When this has happened 
before, I
just reloaded the OS.  But on this machine, with the accounting, I 
wanted

to try to save it, but that was a waste of time.

At 08:53 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:

Anyone want to guess the
final word from the mothership?

There is a reason why i prefer 2000 over XP


Yeah. Buy another copy and re-install it. That would be my guess. I 
have

found oem copy's of xp pro for under 75 bucks.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] a shameless plug

[redghost]

Oh, I think those were the folks from Mistress Jill's defense league

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:02 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


cool, maybe that is why we had a bunch of new people sign up today.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


Found on [EMAIL PROTECTED] job Rick.
Luther

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 14:30:39 -0500
From: "Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Re: car issues???

I am a member of an email list dedicated to Mercedes diesels. You can 
get all the help you need here... 
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


There are two fuel filters on your Benz. A clear pre-filter and a 
larger spin on filter. They both need replaced. Bio-diesel is a VERY 
effective solvent and will clean the inside of your fuel system, 
among other things, very well.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re: We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

BTDT, and decided to just let her have XP and buy her new disks every 
year.  I will stick with OS X.  Took the Gateway laptop back to win98 
so it can stop buggering up.  Once 2k and/or XP were removed the thing 
decided to work again.  The HP came with 2k and is only used for the epc



On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 06:54 PM, archer wrote:



- Original Message -
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Speaking of self-destroying, I have spent many hours in the past week 
with

a self destructing XP machine that would not allow anyone to log in,
because it claimed it had to be activated.  Once you click OK to 
activate
it, the activation wizard comes up and says you can't activate it 
because

it has already been activated!  (it had been activated on
installation)  There have been no hardware or software changes since 
XP,

Office and MS small Biz accounting were loaded a few months ago.  It
worked
fin the prior week, Monday it would not allow anyone to log in.  I 
spend

hours on the phone with MS tech support, and tried repairing from cd
multiple times before I even got to tech support.  Anyone want to 
guess

the
final word from the mothership?


They told you to buy a new copy of XP and load it on the PC; replacing 
the

bad copy and saving your data?
GerryA


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[redghost]

I would believe that having two large football players worth of weight 
added to your own will increase the load on the engine when you are 
trying to get it going from stop, or accelerate on the freeway.  A full 
tank is only 160 lb.  Dead flat like KS or FL may allow you to flog the 
engine a bit more than just puttering about town


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 06:05 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:




- Original Message -
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Toss a bunch of sand bags into the trunk and then try to reach 
highway
speeds.  Might have a few in the rear foot wells.  400 lb ought to 
give

the car a work out.



I once had fifteen 500' spools of siamese video cable in my 300D.
That's about 500 pounds.  It didn't change the ride as much as you'd
think, but the ride height was affected pretty noticably.  I'm sure
acceleration was affected, but I suspect adding weight doesn't change
the engine load at a steady speed very much.


David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re: We can all just throw our Macs away

[redghost]

Yeah, mercedes used to the the macintosh of cars.  Now macs are 
becoming the mercedes of computers (later model benz, not our old ones)


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 05:19 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:


Gee, now I can run a slower, buggier, virus infested self destroying OS
on my Mac!

Hurrah!

Back to OS 9 for me (hehe).

Next big hack is going to be the killer, though -- the software
work-around to run OS X on a PC!  Now that I could go for!

Note to the uninitiated -- I have NEVER had a board or component
failure on a Mac (up to 15 years old) other than on monitor blowing and
a dead MB from repeated lightening strikes on my phone line, and in
that case I only lost the serial ports, everything else works fine!

Peter


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Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

[redghost]

Bead blast is the operative phrase.  Do not, repeat DO NOT sand blast 
or garnet or ... just use glass to get the old paint off, then do a 
good rattle can paint job.  The sand will pit the wheels and you will 
then end up purchasing new ones.


I have used a paint solvent and some elbow grease to clean a few sets 
of wheel.  It takes time, but you get a really good feel for the wheel 
and then  you can rattle can paint.  About $40 worth of paint and a few 
days to let it cure and you have really nice looking wheels again.


There is another product for dealing with brake dust on wheels.  Comes 
in a silver spray bottle and there are formulas for all manner of metal 
wheel.  It is solvent specific to the metal of the wheel.  Eagle One.  
Etching stuff.  Make sure you get the right stuff, or you may as well 
use brake cleaner.  Spray on, hose off.  I used it on bundts that I had 
stripped of paint, but the build up on the back side was just too 
thick.  This got it down to metal after a bit of elbow grease and wire 
wheel.


www.eagleone.com



On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:11 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:


Leave em, Get em bead blasted and painted, or buy now ones.  The last 2
choices are about the same price.  Personally I prefer steel wheels and
hubcaps.

At 09:52 AM 4/5/2006, you wrote:
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear 
cleaned
up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough 
in some
places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them 
with,
to keep from making it worse?  I know about the "clean wheels" but 
have
heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some 
say ok
if slotted..another said if one has a habit of "riding" the brakes 
while
driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean 
wheels 3

- 4 times a week..



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues

[OK Don]

Me too - I did two - a 615 and a 616, in the car. Used an aircraft
bucking bar, a small ball peen hammer, and my father's helping hands
(one of the cars was his). They both went over another 100K miles
without anytiming chain problems. My kids are now driving the 616.

On 4/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have always just used a ball peen hammer.
>

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

Will POR-15 build up enough for rejoining the two halves of sheet into 
one?  I suspect that it wants to be a bearing piece not just cosmetic.  
From the muck I ground up while dealing with the rust, I think after 
one fender bender or trunk crunch, it was coated with spray 
undercoating.  Not that it helped.  It just made is sticky.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 07:53 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they 
have a variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob 
the paint on if the holes are really tiny and the structure of the 
metal is not compromised or use it with some fiberglass matte to build 
up strength. They also make a putty version of the stuff for filling 
larger areas.
  I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its 
been just great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I 
haven't mowed with that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the 
snow none of the rust has come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of 
the rust off, use the 2 treatment chemicals and just brushed on the 
paint.
  Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but 
in a trunk you'd be okay.


  Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop 
under it just as fast or faster than baremetal.


  -Curt

  Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700
From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the 
trunk  To: Mercedes list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.

When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.

Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the
liner out and sopped up the water.  Really nasty looking rust staining
everywhere.  Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the
dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating.  All the way
down to bare painted metal or rust.

Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger
than a dime.  There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from
starboard to port in a channel.  Guess where the most rust through is.
YEP!  right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks
seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.

First question -

What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes?  I have
already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe
Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.

Second question -

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern
back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chainissues)

[l02turner]

You wrote:
<>>

<
From what I have been gathering from the various input

I have received that this is just a bit much and the
timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided to
do this.
When I do this, should I:
Replace the tensionier?>>>

I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really long time.  How many miles 
are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not very expensive and if 
you want everything to be as close to "On Spec" as possible it won't hurt - 
but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts and the tensioner comes 
off if you want to replace it later.


<>

When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets and it aligned 
perfectly at 0.


<>

Make the decision on how to proceed when you have the chain and connecting 
link in your hands.  And consider that a failed crimp could destroy the 
engine. Also consider the place you'll be working and trying to hold a 
backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with your little hammer - while 
making sure the connecting link stays in place as you hold everything and 
swing the hammer, gently.


<>

Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your grinding wheels tools 
must be up to the task,


<>

Give us a day to think about it --

Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a little while -- 



Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info

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[MBZ] Request for 124 EPC data

[Zeitgeist]

Hi there, I'm attempting to install late-model (circa '93 400E)
leather insert doorpanels in my TD, but apparently those versions use
a wider metal upper lip that attach to the felt wiper seal against the
window.  I need to know the part number for the little metal clips
which attach the felt wiper to the door panel.  I believe there are 4
of these on the fronts and three on the rear.

For extra karmic benefit, could someone send me EPC screenshots of the
pages showing how the late-model lower body cladding and rocker panels
mount to the body and doors?  I'm attempting to install this cladding,
but I have no idea what attachment clips are required.  Do these
screenshots show the part numbers for all those clips?

TIA
--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (213k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chain issues)

[Loren Faeth]

I believe most of your problem is with the tensioner, although the chain is 
stretched some.  Definitely replace the tensioner.  You can peen the 
connection link as long as you are careful.  Same goes for the 
dremel.  just be sure to stuff rags everywhere so no abrasive or grindings 
get in the engine or oil.


the backing for riveting (peening) the pin can be anything, but should be 
at least twice as heavy as the hammer you are using.  A steel bar, a brick 
of gold (just kidding though it would make an excellent backer) or a larger 
hammer.


as a precaution if dealers are distant, and time is critical, you might 
want to buy an extra repair link in case you mess up the first try.


At 10:03 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:

Hi all!

I have some questions for the collective group if I
may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
and how it corresponds to the engine tune.


I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
'82 300t with a stock turbo 617.

>From what I have been gathering from the various input
I have received that this is just a bit much and the
timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided to
do this.

When I do this, should I:
Replace the tensionier?

Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5% I
suspect there will be some little slack in the
sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line up
at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
line up at like 1%?


I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I have
some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
fairly straight forward.

I have a small dremel with a grinding disk.  Would
this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose the
old chain?

Ummm  Is there anything else I should think of before
I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
so any info or insight you may have, would be greatly
appreciated.!

Thanks-
Hue-
82 300td "helgra"
71 280sel "lungren"


--- archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> More good news.  Thanks.
> GerryA
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >I have always just used a ball peen hammer.
> >
> > archer wrote:
> >> It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it
> with a ball peen hammer.
> >> Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop.  It's
> good to know tools can be
> >> rented someplace besides Performance Products.
> >> GerryA
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues

[Richard Hattaway]

No, I just happen to have a chain crimper for this chain.

Richard

--- archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Do you rent any other tools, Richard?  Front spring compressors, for 
> example?
> GerryA
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Richard Hattaway" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> >I will rent the tool for $30.  You pay shipping both ways, and pay a
> > deposit of $ 160.  Total payment up front from you $ 200, money
> order.
> > I return a money order for $ 160 when you return the tool in good
> > shape.
> >
> > Richard 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Jim Cathey needs this

[Jim Cathey]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/147294413.html


Like I need a hole in my, well, whatever.  (And which I might
get if I brought home yet another POS, since my wife knows where
the guns are kept...)

_Nothing_ comes in here until at least the 240D leaves, unless
it's truly a stunning deal that I can't pass up.  (Grudge sale
of a flawless 6.9 for $100 by wronged wife, etc.)

I bet I could get away with a nice 108/109, because for some
reason my wife likes the look of those.  When I pointed at the
one in Roy as we drove by she said something to the effect of
those being "nice looking cars".

I know: make that a grudge-sale 600!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[Jim Cathey]

He needs to run winders for FEMA, but prefers to work efficiently the 
rest

of the time.  I have been drooling over the macbooks for some time now.


And why not run VPC (or equivalent) instead?  No dual-booting involved,
and the PC junk is never in control enough to be able to hammer the
system, only itself.  Plenty fast enough for a whole lot of uses.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[Jim Cathey]

So I have to go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?


Hey, and good luck with that!  (I don't think I've ever seen one.)
What's new trunk floor metal cost?  (Crash part.)

-- Jim

[MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chain issues)

[hue wong]

Hi all!

I have some questions for the collective group if I
may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
and how it corresponds to the engine tune.


I’m exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my 
’82 300t with a stock turbo 617.

>From what I have been gathering from the various input
I have received that this is just a bit much and the
timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided to
do this.

When I do this, should I:
Replace the tensionier?

Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5% I
suspect there will be some little slack in the
sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line up
at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
line up at like 1%?


I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I have
some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
fairly straight forward.

I have a small dremel with a grinding disk.  Would
this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose the
old chain?

Ummm  Is there anything else I should think of before
I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
so any info or insight you may have, would be greatly
appreciated.!

Thanks-
Hue-
82 300td “helgra”
71 280sel “lungren”


--- archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> More good news.  Thanks.
> GerryA
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >I have always just used a ball peen hammer.
> >
> > archer wrote:
> >> It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it
> with a ball peen hammer.
> >> Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop.  It's
> good to know tools can be
> >> rented someplace besides Performance Products.
> >> GerryA
> 
> 
> ___
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

[redghost]

I am planning on having BiL see if he can weld it up. He likes to 
hammer and zap metal.  Makes his own stuff for the jeeps.  So I have to 
go find a good trunk in a 114/115 and cut it out?  Looks like I am 
headed to harbor freight to get a cordless nibbler


On Tuesday, April 4, 2006, at 11:10 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Jim Cathey is my new best friend.  Curse Jim.


Sorry, dude!


When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check
Gump's trunk.  We found that there was a lake under the rubber and
trunk liner.  Lots of rusty looking stuff.  Thought I would wait until
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.


That stuff lurks.  Sneaks up on ya.

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the 
stern

back to the rest of the car?  Can I have a panel made with the channel
and weld that in?  It would cover the access to the tank sender


The official way is to get a new trunk floor and have it welded in.
It can be surprisingly less expensive than you might think, or not.
Quotes can be extremely variable, I hit about six body shops before
I found the one that fixed the rust in the SL.  It got a new trunk
floor.  Well, part of one.  I bought the crash piece and the guy
cut it up to get what he needed out of it.  His price was
substantially less than half of anybody else's.  I suggest you
explore bodywork purveyors in the low-rent district, wherever
that is in your area.  Here, it was Hillyard.  I've had good
luck with auto repair labor in Hillyard.  Hungry, and inexpensive.
Last time was two weeks ago when I got the 240D's seat cover
repaired at an upholstery shop.

-- Jim


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] coolish?

[Desert Rat]

Or into Juneau, AK on Alaska Air.

On 4/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> <>
>
> Sonderstrom. Gee, on my first European trip, we landed at Sondrestrom to
> refuel on the way from Vancouver to Dusseldorf. 727-100
>
> Thrilling approach up the dead-end fjord. Like flying down a curved hallway.
>
> RLE
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"

Re: [MBZ] coolish?

[RELNGSON]

<>

Sonderstrom. Gee, on my first European trip, we landed at Sondrestrom to 
refuel on the way from Vancouver to Dusseldorf. 727-100

Thrilling approach up the dead-end fjord. Like flying down a curved hallway.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] brake schmutz

[Desert Rat]

Well,
I do dry them off after rinsing.

I noticed that if I am driving in the rain, the brake dust sticks to the wheel.

That happened once to me in the past 2 years.

On 4/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> < required to keep the wheels looking good.>>
>
> A simple hosing off??? What's your idea of "looking good', anyway? Water does
> not wash off brake dust.
>
> RLE
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle"
1996 Sidekick 57K "Kermit"

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[John M McIntosh]

On 5-Apr-06, at 7:25 PM, George Gregory wrote:


This is true.
And Apple this a disclaimer on its site:

"Word to the Wise

Windows running on a Mac is like Windows running on a PC. That  
means it’ll
be subject to the same attacks that plague the Windows world. So be  
sure to

keep it updated with the latest Microsoft Windows security fixes."



That's for ignorant macintosh users who've never been exposed to the  
Window's trauma of

viruses and pop-up ads extraordinary.

I will also note consumer reports rates apple #1 by a huge percentage  
over #2 for hardware
quality & support. So buying a nice mac and *only* running XP or  
Vista someday on it wouldn't be
a stupid decision just in order to get nice looking and superb  
performing hardware.


Still I have to wonder if you buy a XP CD who does the support for  
you? Usually isn't that covered by

the poor hardware vendor?

PS I keep getting whacked by the fact that consumer reports also says  
mercedes ranked mucho last
in problems with their cars. Although I point out that a friend  
bought a used 2002 C320? wagon which
he still feels after two months of usage the finest automobile he has  
driven even compared to every 2006/2007

wagon/crossover vehicle he could get his hands on.

John
1983 300TDt  372k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  164k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 172k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup

[Bill Gallagher]

Why is the word " Italian " used to cure a problem? Can *4r&3$ be used 
to cause the problem in the first place???


Bill
1981 300 TD
Not a Italian 

archer wrote:
You might have something there.  I knew a farmer who used his old 200D to 
take as many bags of feed as the car would hold to his cattle way out in the 
field.  He took the seats out and piled feed sacks up to the roof and in the 
trunk.  He started using it because his pickup truck kept breaking 
suspension parts.  The 200D never broke anything.

GerryA

- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  

Toss a bunch of sand bags into the trunk and then try to reach highway
speeds.  Might have a few in the rear foot wells.  400 lb ought to give
the car a work out.



  

archer wrote:


Steve Auto Clinics in Zambia have a long and seemingly thorough
discussion
of EGT versus engine life:
http://www.steves.co.za/Engine_Protection_Units_1.html
  

From reading it I get the impression that the typical Italian Tuneup
might


be somewhat risky.
  

I've NEVER heard of an unmodified Mercedes diesel "burning" up from
running at permissible loads. If it's dangerous, Mercedes either
prevents it or tells you to NOT do it. All of the "melted" engines I
know of came after people defeated the systems that controlled power
output.

I've NEVER heard of a Mercedes turbodiesel burning up from running
flat
out and I've driven dozens of 'em that way.!

Marshall


---
In a previous article about Italian tuneups you wrote:

...The chain stretch should be below 5 degrees or so, the
valves
should be properly adjusted, the air and fuel filters should be
verifiably
clean, and there should be clean and it would probably be best if the
injection pump timing is known to be pretty close to correct (within a
couple of degrees).
http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/italian/

If one or all of these conditions are not met, does that mean a
turbodiesel
"could" self destruct in your opinion?

Note:  I'm not trying to prove you wrong by any means.  I'm simply
trying to
work out a method whereby those of us who are a long way from mountain
grades can do the equivalent of an Italian tuneup.  Some of us on this
group
cannot "afford" to blow up an engine, but we would still like to make
our
engines run better and more economically.

Gerry Archer 
  



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Re: [MBZ] for number watchers

[redghost]

or 2106

On Tuesday, April 4, 2006, at 08:49 AM, BillR wrote:


Make that tomorrow, and as was pointed out this will happen again -  in
3006.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:42 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] for number watchers

Wednesday of what week???



On 4/4/06, BillR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


On Wednesday of next week, at two minutes and three seconds after 1:00
in the morning, the time and date will be:
01:02:03 04/05/06.

That won't ever happen again.

BillR



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] for number watchers

[redghost]

for 100 years

On Tuesday, April 4, 2006, at 06:46 AM, BillR wrote:


On Wednesday of next week, at two minutes and three seconds after 1:00
in the morning, the time and date will be:
 01:02:03 04/05/06.

That won't ever happen again.

BillR



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] MB's funeral pyre

[RELNGSON]

<>

MBs don't have engineered in oil leaks anymore. And you don't have to worry 
about running the oil level an inch down on the stick.

That SL undoubtedly developed a fuel leak. What I can't understand is why the 
doors and trunk aren't open after all the belongings were removed.

BTW, for those who tend to panic, next year's V-6 is a gasoline direct 
injection engine. 3.5L, 293hp.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

[George Gregory]

On 4/5/06 7:55 PM, "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A friend of mine tells me that if you want the very fastest notebook
> PC you need to get an Intel Macbook and coerce it into doing Windows
> or Linux (whatever).  Myself, I think OS X is just fine!
> 
> -- Jim

This is true.
And Apple this a disclaimer on its site:

"Word to the Wise

Windows running on a Mac is like Windows running on a PC. That means it¹ll
be subject to the same attacks that plague the Windows world. So be sure to
keep it updated with the latest Microsoft Windows security fixes."

-- 
+-- 
GG
1997 SL500 (101k)
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals
+--

Re: [MBZ] Damn, it's cold

[Sunil Hari]

what are  you doing in greenland?!

On 4/5/06, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Temp for one 2 week period at Sondrestromfjord, Greenland was -55F; chill
> factor = -90F.  My new USAF 78 Ford crewcab pickup ran continuously for
> the
> 2 weeks.  'Had to breathe slowly and carefully not to freeze/hurt throat
> and
> lungs.  Yes, spit froze before hitting grnd.
>
> Wilton
>
>
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] brake schmutz

[RELNGSON]

<>

A simple hosing off??? What's your idea of "looking good', anyway? Water does 
not wash off brake dust.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] Seriously OT:Re: We can all just throw our Macs away

[Loren Faeth]

Close!   They said to wipe the drive and reload all the software.  I had 
already tried any tricks they were aware of before I called.  So, the 
activation scheme locks up the computer and you are screwed, because Bill 
takes the stance that everyone is a thief.   (it was not an OEM 
preinstall)  I am not sure how many times it was escalated.   I think it 
was twice.  I think there were about 8 people involved from MS.  I have 
always stayed away from MS support, other than what's online.  Been able to 
fix everything else one way or another.  When this has happened before, I 
just reloaded the OS.  But on this machine, with the accounting, I wanted 
to try to save it, but that was a waste of time.


At 08:53 PM 4/5/2006, you wrote:

> Anyone want to guess the
> final word from the mothership?
>
> There is a reason why i prefer 2000 over XP

Yeah. Buy another copy and re-install it. That would be my guess. I have
found oem copy's of xp pro for under 75 bucks.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues

[archer]

More good news.  Thanks.
GerryA

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have always just used a ball peen hammer.

archer wrote:

It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it with a ball peen hammer.
Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop.  It's good to know tools can be
rented someplace besides Performance Products.
GerryA