Hi Rick,
Thank you for the reply. I have a JLD404 and also a programmable power
supply.
Let me try to do a better job of posing the questions:
What sort of initial charging procedure is best?
When running the mower which is probably at 20A continuous, and perhaps
with a transient peak at times
I would look at the JLD404 from LightObject
(http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-red-led-Ideal-for-battery-monitoring-P870.aspx).
It can monitor battery voltage, amps or count Amp-Hours and has two
relays in it which can trigger on high or low values of any of them. Use
it to t
So I have new AGMs in hand from atbatt (the one linked in my May 1 post).
Should I just charge them to to 27V together? Or are there other
considerations?
MI wife tends to mow until the thing is whisper quiet and the voltage is
below 24V. I have the impression the PbSO4 cells should be no les
Roger,
Thanks for the answer. The metric is what I made up as a way to compare
the items on the website, but it takes into consideration what I have heard
on this list. I (despite what folks might think from my constant poking
about) actually prefer to follow advice I am given. The Enersys/Gene
Michael Ross wrote:
> When you say lead is the fuel - how does that work? I wouldn't have
> expected it unless it means the grids (my word for whatever they are
> called. plates?) are bigger...
>
> I guess you could make the grids heavier better life in severe conditions.
> How do you know the e
On 30 Apr 2014 at 22:04, Michael Ross wrote:
> When you say lead is the fuel - how does that work?
Figuratively speaking. In an ICEV the more gasoline or Diesel fuel you
have, the farther you go. In an EV, the more lead you have, the farther you
go.
As for which one to buy, I can't make a re
On 1 May 2014 at 13:50, Hoegberg wrote:
> I think Hawker is an Enersyscompany now,
> I have very good experience of Hawker from the more expensive batterymodels,
> forklifts and so on, but this one on that site..I dont know, and the
> labeldesign & price .. ?? it looks like it may be fake/copy?
be worth it for home built movers, they do a good job
/John
> From: michael.e.r...@gmail.com
> Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2014 17:56:07 -0400
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Recommendations for push mower motor?
>
> EVDL Dave R.,
>
> Comparing on a weight basis $/
Thanks, that was instructive.
When you say lead is the fuel - how does that work? I wouldn't have
expected it unless it means the grids (my word for whatever they are
called. plates?) are bigger...
I guess you could make the grids heavier better life in severe conditions.
How do you know the ext
On 30 Apr 2014 at 20:36, Michael Ross wrote:
> So what should I be paying for? Weight? $/lb value? $/Ah value? I am
> hoping at least for directed opinion.
Who was it who categorized all falsehoods as lies, damn lines, and battery
pitches? I think it may have been Lee Hart. ;-)
Especially w
So what should I be paying for? Weight? $/lb value? $/Ah value? I am
hoping at least for directed opinion.
Has anyone ever bought one of these? Are these manufacturers all full of
beans because they are not Deka, Gates,Enersys, Hawker, or Concorde? I
thought they all come from just a few sou
On 29 Apr 2014 at 13:03, Lee Hart wrote:
> Gels are capable of long life; but only the very best premium brands
> will in fact deliver it. Deka Dominators and Gates Cyclons are two that
> I know will last.
One of the Deka's secrets to long cycle life is that it's a rather severely
acid-starve
Yes, low sampling rates are a confounding influence.
You can get a better idea by sampling the sampling. Don't just take 1
reading take many. For really short duration spikes you might never find
it, but is they last say 1/10th of the sampling rate then you might catch
them or at least the slop
Even with peak hold, you're limited by the sampling rate
on the DMM.
My DMM has a clamp. I set it up to peak hold voltage, and
it showed no back EMF from my motor when I turned off
power, so I thought it had an internal flyback diode and
did not install one externally.
Then I used the clamp ammet
My B&D CMM1000 24V 19" mower, IIRC, pulls just under 10A when not
cutting and something over 20A on initial surge on startup. I only
have a digital clamp meter that doesn't react fast enough to know the
peak current. Maybe I should look to see if it has a peak hold option.
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at
EVDL Dave R.,
Comparing on a weight basis $/lb (on the theory that weigh goes with Pb
content which goes with quality of design and manufacture and looking at $/
Ah:
*#113lb* $3.46/lb @ $45 17.2 Ah *$2.62/Ah*
http://www.atbatt.com/genesis-np18-12-12v-172ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-with-nb-te
18Ah BP17-12
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 2:27 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
> Michael Ross wrote:
>
>> my power supply allows me to tell it a peak current and peak voltage...
>>
>> It sounds like I can safely set the voltage to 28.8V and 4 amps, and
>> not be concerned if I forget for a few days. Do I have
Michael Ross wrote:
Any idea if a 24V 1200W mower is a "high" current application? I am not
sure if I know what "high" and "low" mean in this context.
It's considered a "high" current application. You will probably size
your batteries so they get discharged in under an hour.
Is this where
Michael Ross wrote:
my power supply allows me to tell it a peak current and peak voltage...
It sounds like I can safely set the voltage to 28.8V and 4 amps, and
not be concerned if I forget for a few days. Do I have that right?
What is the amphour capacity of your batteries? 28.2v and 4a is OK
Any idea if a 24V 1200W mower is a "high" current application? I am not
sure if I know what "high" and "low" mean in this context.
Is this where Li cells shine? Long life and better peak current
capability? (I am incapable of asking rhetorical questions about this
stuff- I simply don't know - I
Michael Ross wrote:
Are there non-rape and pillage suppliers for the higher quality gels and
AGM?
Well, I'm cheap. I generally buy my batteries as far away from retail as
I can get. :-)
Sometimes it's a negotiated price for a quantity purchase. Battery
dealers have a *large* margin, and so
EVDL Administrator wrote:
simple cycle-dropping charge controller ...
On further thought, somthing occurs to me - I don't think this circuit will
work properly with a filtered DC input (as from a bench supply). Maybe a
real EE (I'm just a hacker) will weigh in.
Yeah, that's an AC-only circuit
Back to charging, and trying to take good care of the celles - in regard to
the 24V pack on my newish mower...my power supply allows me to tell it a
peak current and peak voltage. It will hold the peak voltage and current
until it reaches the voltage setpoint, then the current drops - to mere
mill
Thank you all so much, please don't stop commenting.
Are there non-rape and pillage suppliers for the higher quality gels and
AGM?
I see higher cycle counts for gels declared in some places...is that true?
Or is there more to the story - like really hard to charge and discharge
gels so they actu
On 29 Apr 2014 at 12:06, Lee Hart wrote:
> I have Enersys, Hawker, and Concorde AGMs that are now over 10 years old
> and still delivering at least half of their original capacity. I also have
> Gates, and Deka gels just as old that are still usable.
I just recently retired the last of a batch of
Michael Ross wrote:
I see AGM BP17-12 at amazon prime for $42. Hard to think of putting in Li
for that cost.
Presumably, all AGM are not created equal - how does one tell good from bad?
Price, and weight are the best indicator. The heavier the battery, the
more lead in it. The more lead, the
On 29 Apr 2014 at 12:48, EVDL Administrator wrote:
> simple cycle-dropping charge controller ...
On further thought, somthing occurs to me - I don't think this circuit will
work properly with a filtered DC input (as from a bench supply). Maybe a
real EE (I'm just a hacker) will weigh in.
Davi
Michael Ross wrote:
I have an Amrel programmable power supply 4A, 60V. Very handy for Li-ion.
I am a lead acid dunce. Can I imitate a smart charger with the Amrel
power supply?
Yes, if you supply the "smarts" (i.e. manually control it).
Are there different protocols for conventional, AGM and
On 29 Apr 2014 at 10:53, Michael Ross wrote:
> I am a lead acid dunce. Can I imitate a smart charger with the Amrel
> power supply?
>
> Are there different protocols for conventional, AGM and Gel? I assume so.
Here is a good introduction to lead battery charging:
http://www.evdl.org/pages/ha
I see AGM BP17-12 at amazon prime for $42. Hard to think of putting in Li
for that cost.
Presumably, all AGM are not created equal - how does one tell good from bad?
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 11:10 AM, Martin WINLOW wrote:
> Speed is comparable, then. I had a quick look on ebay - dual 18V set
Speed is comparable, then. I had a quick look on ebay - dual 18V set ups
(might even use the same battery packs as your existing cordless drill) but one
DeWalt (300 model) is 36V using standard 36V pack with a 900W motor - is this
enough? I'd be easy enough to mount and just re position the sw
Answers here:
http://bit.ly/1tZLfMD
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 10:49 AM, Martin WINLOW wrote:
> *What sort of RPM does a mower use? *SNIP
Up to 3600RPM for ICE depending on load.
plug in electric probably the same.
Part of what you care about is tip speed. If the blade is short it need
more rp
I have an Amrel programmable power supply 4A, 60V. Very handy for Li-ion.
I am a lead acid dunce. Can I imitate a smart charger with the Amrel
power supply?
Are there different protocols for conventional, AGM and Gel? I assume so.
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 9:40 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
> Craigsl
What sort of RPM does a mower use? The corded electric Mountfield we use does
not appear to have a gearbox. So, would a 36/48V cordless circular saw be a
possible starting point (if there is such a beast!)? It'd certainly make
battery swapping very easy! MW
On 28 Apr 2014, at 17:58, Michael
Craigslist brought me a B&D CMM1200 which seems to be quite a hoss at
1200W. 24V. Bagger/mulcher, 1.5A charger.
EVDL Administrator wrote:
Good find! Note that 1200 watts is>peak< - ask those little gel batteries
to deliver 50 amps for more than a few seconds and see how far they get you!
Unle
On 28 Apr 2014 at 19:17, Michael Ross wrote:
> Craigslist brought me a B&D CMM1200 which seems to be quite a hoss at
> 1200W. 24V. Bagger/mulcher, 1.5A charger.
Good find! Note that 1200 watts is >peak< - ask those little gel batteries
to deliver 50 amps for more than a few seconds and se
I have a cordless B&D that i changed out to use 24v 20ah thundersky batts a
few seasons ago and shared the battery for a while on my recumbent for
assist. It certainly won't do my new 2+ acres but was cheap with dead
batteries off of craigslist and the lighter batteries made it tolerable to
push i
KTA drop ships them from another supplier in the US. I've always had
good luck with KTA so that is why I ordered from them. It sounded like
they periodically get orders in and ship from that. I don't remember
how long it took mine to show up but it was less than 3 weeks. They
are a really nice size
Thanks, David, that sounds like a good fit. Sounds like the 40AH I was
looking at are way overkill.
They ship in 2 to 3 weeks - sounds like they are not stocking, just
brokering for a Chinese manufacturer.
This is all speculation, because I may like the Pb cells in it just fine.
I wonder how mu
I picked up a B&D 24V push mower for free. It needed batteries and a
charger. I removed the charging circuit & batteries and replaced the
batteries with two sets of GBS 20Ah
(http://www.kta-ev.com/Battery_4_GBS_3_2V_20AH_cells_p/bat-gbs-lfmp20ahx4.htm)
which are an almost exact size replacement for
Hi thank you all for the advice, and so fast.
I took the advice to work with a cordless mower rather than re-purpose an
ICE mower. Craigslist brought me a B&D CMM1200 which seems to be quite a
hoss at 1200W. 24V. Bagger/mulcher, 1.5A charger. The only thing I
could see amiss was a missing
>>http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24V-40AH-LiFePO4-Battery-Pack-Electric-Bicycle-electric-Scooter-bicycle-E-Bike-Lithium-Ion-Long-life/328001_771068114.html
<<
Thanks Mike for the recommendation.
My blade on my B&D MM675 measures 17.5" even though the specs say 18"
cutting path. Most o
Thanks Mike for the recommendation.
My blade on my B&D MM675 measures 17.5" even though the specs say 18"
cutting path. Most of the lower voltage electrics have a 14" blade.
The smaller mower means more passes. Something to think about.
On 4/28/2014 3:45 PM, Michael Ross wrote:
I have ano
The batteries in the Homelite battery mower I've been using for four years
gave out this spring so I went for the 56V EGO mower at Home Despot this
weekend since I had a $100 gift card already (still too pricey but I have
too many projects going already and couldn't bring myself to buy an ICE
mower
about the plastic disk shearing off. replace it with a sheet metal disk to
fit the motor shaft then place a disk of leather between the new drive disk
and the blade hub, then when you hit a rock the blade slips and no damage
is done.
*Dennis Lee Miles *
*Director **E.V.T.I. Inc.*
*E-Mail:* *e
nal Message-
From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
Behalf Of Michael Ross
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 12:46 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Recommendations for push mower motor?
I have another battery from these people that seems just fi
I have another battery from these people that seems just fine (after taking
it apart to see inside)
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24V-40AH-LiFePO4-Battery-Pack-Electric-Bicycle-electric-Scooter-bicycle-E-Bike-Lithium-Ion-Long-life/328001_771068114.html
This one is 24V 40Ah LFP and weigh
Hello Mike,
I'll second what Cal is saying below. To get the nut off, you have to
place a wrench on the nut and "impact" it until the nut loosens. I
would **not** use a compressed air impactor tool. I use my fist. Be
careful because everything is free wheeling. If you leave your knuckles
On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 2:01 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
> On the blade hitting rocks: Copy the same setup they use on the ICE. They
> always have some kind of clutch setup so if the blade hits something, it
> can instantly stop while the clutch slips. Usually, the clutch is nothing
> but a big bolt that
Michael Ross wrote:
I have an old simple ICE push mower, that might be worth converting.
I've done some conversions, both for myself and for friends.
A standard ICE push mower, or corded electric mower is easy to convert;
but likely to be less than satisfactory to use. The weight of the
batt
I'm on my second Black and Decker push mower, corded type. I have a
small lawn, so avoiding running over the cord is not a major problem. I
won't advise on motor or batteries, but I can say B&D has a plastic shim
in the stack of washers holding the blade to the motor shaft. Said shim
has raised edg
I have an old simple ICE push mower, that might be worth converting.
Can anyone recommend the sort of motor I should look for?
Re-purposing a motor would be nice.
I would use LFP batteries.
What about the shock of the blade hitting something nearly immobile? That
is a lot of shock that small en
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