Re: [MBZ] ATF Level

[l02turner--- via Mercedes]

Ok.  Good place to start Thx
Sent from my LG Mobile
-- Original message--From: Peter Frederick via Mercedes Date: Thu, Feb 
9, 2017 18:56To: Mercedes Discussion List;Cc: Peter Frederick;Subject:Re: [MBZ] 
ATF Level
Usually a pint, I 
think.Peter___http://www.okiebenz.comTo 
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[MBZ] Oil as per Mobil 1

[l02turner]

Just checked with the Mobil 1 website and got this:
  The company that manufactures your vehicle recommends this Mobil 1 
product, or has a special requirement.

 

  Current Vehicle: 
  Year:   1991 
  Make:   Mercedes-Benz 
  Model:   300D 
  Engine Type:   5cyl. 2.5Liter Turbocharged 



Do you think MB recommends 0W40 for a 20 yr old TC’d diesel?

I know M1’s primary concern is selling oil but the comment about the “... 
manufactures your vehicle recommends ”

I *might* (BIG might) go with a 0W40 for a cold weather oil... gotta give that 
some thought.

Yes, I know, I’m a Oil Analysis guy – but analysis has little to do with 
choosing a oil (mostly).

Thanks!
Merry Christmas!
LarryT
91 300D

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[MBZ] My Subscription

[l02turner]

Howdy – Have I been un-subbed?  If so, it was not done by me – I am no longer 
receiving emails in my Win Live Mail (another piece of crap from our friends at 
microsoft) so perhaps I was un-subbed?

Please confirm my subscription status - 

Thanks
Larry
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[MBZ] Headlight relays

[l02turner]

Howdy - 
Some older cars are aided by having relays added into the headlight circuits – 
the 911 especially because the power for the headlight goes through the switch 
(as I understand it) and the relays reduces the load through the switch.  I’m 
told this makes it possible to use brighter bulbs safely.

I recall reading that the limiting factor for brighter bulbs on the W124 is the 
plastic headlight housing and the Euro housings are metal and can take more 
powerful bulbs.

So, will relays make a difference on W123 or W124 headlight systems?  Where 
would one find Euro headlight housings?  Or are there other options/solutions?

Thanks – and Merry Christmas!
LarryT
91 300D


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[MBZ] Is the list active?

[l02turner]

Hi All - 
I haven’t rec’d anything since 12/17 – is the list alive and Well?

Thx
Larry
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

[l02turner]

Ed -
Haven't had any new posts since this one on 12/17 - I know ya'll aren’t 
being THAT quiet.


Kaleb -- 
Ever find a Drivers Door Lock actuator?


Thx
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: E M

Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 10:01 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

Keep it clean now boys, family list here you know! hee hee

Ed
300E

On 17 December 2010 00:40,  wrote:


Oh oh.

Not Ru-Glyde, but Sil-Glyde. Had a tube of it for decades. Defintely
superior to something that will run to the bottom.

RLE
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[MBZ] Thank Our Soldiers at Christmas

[l02turner]

Please consider the following:

Thanks! 


Subject: Fw: Xerox is doing it again this year.



  Send a thank you card to the troops!!!
  --- 
 

XEROX IS DOING SOMETHING COOL   (hit Control and Click the link)
  
If you go to this web site, www.LetsSayThanks.com   you can pick out a thank 
you card and Xerox will print it and it will be sent to a soldier that is 
currently serving in Iraq . You can't pick out who gets it, but it will go to a 
member of the armed services. 
  
How AMAZING it would be if we could get everyone we know to send one!!!It 
is FREE and it only takes a second. 
  
Wouldn't it be wonderful if the soldiers received a bunch of these?Whether 
you are for or against the war, our soldiers over there need to know we are 
behind them. 
  
This takes just 10 seconds and it's a wonderful way to say thank you.Please 
take the time and please take the time to pass it on for others to do.  We can 
never say enough thank you's. 
  
Thanks for taking to time to support our military!  
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[MBZ] Where is everyone?

[l02turner]

I haven’t rec’d a MBZ message since yesterday – VERY off for ya’ll to be so 
quiet -- 


LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Did startekinfo kill the free EPC accounts?

[l02turner]

   Don't know if this has been answered or not but I have been able to log 
in without a problem.  I reset my membership in Nov. 10 when the old one 
expired.   I recall having trouble getting back to the Free membership.


Good luck -- 
LarryT

91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Walt Zarnoch

Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 1:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Did startekinfo kill the free EPC accounts?

Hey all,

Just tried to login to the EPC, and it's saying my username can't be
found. Oddly enough, I can reset my password, and it has all the
correct info for that.
When I tried renewing the subscription, it said "Subscription Renewal
is not allowed". My subscription is set to run out on "06/21/11 at
08:45 AM EAST " according to my welcome email.

When I went to create a new account, it hit me up for $18 a day, on up
to $3K for a one year subscription, with no free option...

It worked last month just fine, so I'm a bit weirded out by this...
Did they kill the free accounts in an ill-conceived grab for cash?

Walt, who's wondering how the heck he'll find the part number for the
oil pump pickup gasket on an NA 617 from a 78 300D, among other
things...

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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

[l02turner]

I put Goodyear Eagles (195-65-15s) on the 91 300D shortly after we bought it 
and was very disappointed with their performance - poor wet, poor dry and 
rapid wear.  The Kuhmo Extsa's on it now seem the opposite!  I guess the car 
is very important when it comes to tire performance - we had exactly the 
opposite results --

Go figger -

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Mitch Haley

Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 8:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Max Dillon wrote:
So does anyone on this list run 205/60R15 tires on a 124?  I'd like to 
stay

with the factory rating, but I'm considering whatever trade-off may be
required if I can save $100 or so.


My 2.3-16v came with proper size worn out Goodyears (205/55vr15 on 
aftermarket
rims.) Those Eagles were hard and shiny, but it cornered better than with 
the

new Kumhos I put on it (195/65/15 on narrower 190D rims)

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

[l02turner]

I'll try some M1 - ATF.  We're supposed to get more snow this weekend -

Thanks agn
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

I was thinking more like ATF, wheel bearing grease would be way
too think.

On 12/16/2010 10:48 AM, Allan Streib wrote:
Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or 
ATF?






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

[l02turner]

Wow!  As Rusty explained it, the transmissions are the expensive part - 
seems whoever took the motors must not have been knowledgeable - or maybe 
they wanted the Copper?


LarryT

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 4:06 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

PGA may be our friend - see my earlier post with their URL.

On my foray to the pick-n-pull a few weeks ago, I noticed that all the MB 
WW's had been violently stripped of their motors.  Very sad - all the 
transmission arms bent, all the plastic/rubber covers ripped and broken off.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 3:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Max,
The movement is slow and sounds like it's on a dry surface - even though I
wet it down.I removed the cover you mentioned and lubed the shaft under
the cover - helped a little.

See my reply to Allan where I discuss Rusty's phone call.  Sounds like we
both have a new transmission in out future.   I'm starting a search for a
used one at Rusty's suggestion... New one's are over $500.

Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:41 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.
You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes
out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW
assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I
worry.

Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

[l02turner]

I replaced the ContiPro's on my '91 300D last Feb (got ~70K Mi) with a set 
of Kuhmo's.   WHile I dislike sending money to China they were too good a 
deal to pass up.   So far (~20K mi) they have been excellent - great in 
rain, snow and dry.  Plus they seem to be wearing very slowly.


It's getting harder and harder to find 14's (for my MGB) and gradually 
getting harder finding 15s.  I suspect 15s will virtually disappear (except 
from the vintage tire sellers) as 16" becomes the new standard.


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 6:34 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Worn suspension on my '87 wagon has killed the Continental ContiProContact
tires after about 40k miles.  I'm in the process of rebuilding rear
suspension and installing new front struts, and I need to decide which
replacement tires to get.  Unfortunately Tire Rack had the latest version of
the ContiProContact is on back order (195/65R15 in the 91H service rating),
so I've spent some time looking for something else.



Should I go with the 205/60 tires?  It looks like there's more variety and
lower prices for that profile tire.



Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles

'73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

[l02turner]

Hi Allan,
Nope, the blade is fairly new - the rubber insert is soft and flexible. 
Maybe I'll replace it anyway.


Talked to Rusty who told be the wiper transmission is what operates the 
in/out movement of the blade arm and it's *expensive* - like over $500!  He 
suggested I try to find a used one.


Kaleb!   I used some "Lubricant" (that’s what it said on the can ;-^ ) No 
silicone as far as I could tell.


Do you have any good used ones?   After talking with Rusty it sounds like my 
WW is on the way out.  It's been dry recently so that may help extend the 
lifespan.


Let me know Kaleb -- 


Thx
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Allan Streib

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 10:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Are the blades old?  Hard, old blades can skip and chatter even on wet 
glass.


 writes:


Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?


Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
better.  But I worry.


Anyone BTDT?



--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

[l02turner]

My cell phone (Verizon /Motorola) has a menu item saying Location on/off 
which means I can urn my location on or off - for 911 purposes IIRC.


I wonder if that does the same thing you mentioned with photos?

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 9:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Speaking of posting pictures, FYI most gps-enabled cell phones (i.e.
Blackberries, i-phones, etc) will geo-tag pictures with the location the 
picture

was taken.  If the photographer then shares that photo on-line, they've also
posted the date/time and location of the photo.  Folks with privacy (or 
OPSEC)

considerations might not like to have such info in the public domain, where
nefarious intentions can lead to bad results.





From: Rich Thomas 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:37:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text
and whatever.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake

caliper,

and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to

lower

it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the

bolt)

in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier. 
On

this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush

on
the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the 
hole

with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do

this

part of the job).



Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie

rod

from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming

in

the next box of goodies from Rusty.



Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to

replace

the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool

or

a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,

but
I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the 
warranty.

Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but

we

probably won't have to wait for that.



If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain

you

all with a happy ending later tonight!



Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles

'73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

[l02turner]

Hi Max --  You asked <>

Probably, I'm famous for that ;-)

Try this:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

Sorry 'bout that!  ;-)

Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon 
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:42 AM 
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries. 


Did you forget to paste in the URL?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

This website has a excellent explanation of the different bulbs - their 
wattage, useage, etc along with images of many different lens'.Very 
informative.  This guy makes a great relay kit for Porsche (and others) 
headlights so they can take more power safely.


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:14 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.


..Isn't the lamp lens customized for lighting patterns in different
countries? Maybe 4 was the US pattern?..


It is for right or left hand traffic.

Beyond that, the beam patterns with H-4s have been the same for decades.
For the one example I know about, the stock headlights in my '95 W202 C280
used H-4 (100/160W) bulbs producing the Euro beam pattern with the low beam
sharp cutoff which is the same beam pattern my 2008 C300's Bi-Xenon low 
beams

have.

And the old Cibie Z-Beams in my Porsche with JC Whitney 100/160W H-4s (four
relays) have the exact same pattern.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

[l02turner]

Hi Max,
The movement is slow and sounds like it's on a dry surface - even though I 
wet it down.I removed the cover you mentioned and lubed the shaft under 
the cover - helped a little.


See my reply to Allan where I discuss Rusty's phone call.  Sounds like we 
both have a new transmission in out future.   I'm starting a search for a 
used one at Rusty's suggestion... New one's are over $500.


Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:41 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off. 
You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?


Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass. 
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.


Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124 (KALEB -- Need your help)

[l02turner]

Hello Kaleb,
Pls see my reply to Allan.   re: the lubricant - the can said "Lubricant". 
I know, I should be more picky.  But I was trying to help the WW in 
preparation of a small snow storm moving through today and that was all I 
could find.


Thx Kaleb - Hopefully you have one for a low price ---

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:11 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

What do you lube it with?

On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the 
plastic cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there 
are two catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop 
off.  You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which 
comes out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the 
entire WW assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?


Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
better.  But I worry.


Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

[l02turner]

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.  

Anyone BTDT?

TIA - 
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

[l02turner]

This website has a excellent explanation of the different bulbs - their 
wattage, useage, etc along with images of many different lens'.Very 
informative.  This guy makes a great relay kit for Porsche (and others) 
headlights so they can take more power safely.


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:14 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.


..Isn't the lamp lens customized for lighting patterns in different
countries? Maybe 4 was the US pattern?..


It is for right or left hand traffic.

Beyond that, the beam patterns with H-4s have been the same for decades.
For the one example I know about, the stock headlights in my '95 W202 C280
used H-4 (100/160W) bulbs producing the Euro beam pattern with the low beam
sharp cutoff which is the same beam pattern my 2008 C300's Bi-Xenon low 
beams

have.

And the old Cibie Z-Beams in my Porsche with JC Whitney 100/160W H-4s (four
relays) have the exact same pattern.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

[l02turner]

Hi Max,
   Last Summer you were prepping for a rear suspension repair & upgrade. 
At the time several people (incl. me) requested a list parts needed.  Were 
you ever able to put that list onto paper?  Would love to see it - still no 
specific problems but it's one of those problems that sneak up on you 
without noticing.


   I assume the '95 is all back together by now?  Driving nicely I hope? 
Sorry if you have gone over this - there are so many MBZ posts I often get 
behind in reading all of them.  Hope I don't miss something important...


   Did you notice a big improvement?

TIA -
Larry T
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310

Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 7:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

I'll send it directly (anyone else need it?) but I'm not sure it will
all apply to you, as the hardware changed at some point, increasing the
bolt size from M10 to M12 I believe.  Maybe someone here is smart enough
to know if the larger bolts will be fine as long as ALL the
camber/torque/strut/etc arms are replaced along with bushings and
sleeves?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

Hey Max -
When you get that list, please share it, OK??

My '91 300D might need a similar rebuild one of these days 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D


"In God We Trust"

--
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310"

Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:34 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?


Dieselvolk,

I'm putting together a Rusty-gram to get the rubber and hardware bits
so that I can rebuild the rear suspension on my '95 E300.  I'm
planning to go whole hog: differential to sub frame mounts, sub frame
to body mounts, and all the various bushings and torque arms and
struts that hold the wheel carrier in position.  I'm expecting at
least a boat ride at this year's Rusty-Q, as I've probably already
made two or three of his boat payments.

Someone, I believe it was Dieselhead, recently shared their
observations, and I remember that removing the mounts that hold sub
frame to body was loads of fun and games.  What tools/hardware should
I gather in advance to help this procedure along?  Can I rent the $$$
tools somewhere?  Any other tidbits of wisdom will be appreciated.

Still smoking,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 328k miles
'95 E300 275k miles (project)
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC



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Re: [MBZ] Headlights Q 78 240D W123

[l02turner]

after I sent this I began to think I am probably wrong about it having a 
bulb - it's probably a sealed beam - right?  It's stock as far as I know


LarryT
78 240D

-Original Message- 
From: l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 3:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlights Q

My 78 240D has a recent rock hit in one headlight glass.  The bulb is ok but
the glass is toast.  Now off to Rustyland for a replacement.  Hpefully it's
easy to replace - can't be too hard -- 


It's always something -

LarryT
91 300D
78 240D

-Original Message- 
From: Dieselhead

Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 2:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlights Q

Bosch 7" H4s are great.  They do have a distinct upper/left cutout
thay may take some getting used to.
I have used them since 1973, I think.  Still have the originals
and most of the subsequent ones.  Silver is still good.

For my bucks, at least when I bought em and they were made in der
vaterland, they were the best.  The ones you buy now may be made in
lower slobovia, so who knows?

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Re: [MBZ] Headlights Q

[l02turner]

My 78 240D has a recent rock hit in one headlight glass.  The bulb is ok but 
the glass is toast.  Now off to Rustyland for a replacement.  Hpefully it's 
easy to replace - can't be too hard -- 


It's always something -

LarryT
91 300D
78 240D

-Original Message- 
From: Dieselhead

Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 2:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlights Q

Bosch 7" H4s are great.  They do have a distinct upper/left cutout
thay may take some getting used to.
I have used them since 1973, I think.  Still have the originals
and most of the subsequent ones.  Silver is still good.

For my bucks, at least when I bought em and they were made in der
vaterland, they were the best.  The ones you buy now may be made in
lower slobovia, so who knows?

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Re: [MBZ] W123 Transmission manual

[l02turner]

The way torrents work is:
Find a torrent from one of the many Torrent sites for the subject you are 
looking for - but before you do that, donload and install one of the torrent 
downloaders like utorrent or bittorrent  (www.bittorrent.com)


Click "Download" on the Torrent for the desired subject - the  Open when the 
menu pops up.  It will open Bit torrent or utorrent as you chose and request 
a location to save the downloaded file.  it will take a while to download 
depending on how many people are also downloading the same file.  After you 
download a file you are asked to leave your utorrent/bittorrent open so the 
file you downloaded can be downloaded by others.  The more who do this, the 
faster downloads occur.   I've had 1 hour TV programs download in 10 minutes 
and car images take weeks.


Once the file is downloaded you can view it if the form is pdf or similar. 
If it is a rar file you will have to get a translator.  But no big deal 
regardless.
As with anything having to do with the net and downloads, it's a good idea 
to have a effective antivirus in effect.  I use Norton provided by Comcast 
which has caught all the bugs so far.


I know it is considered illegal to download copyrighted material - unless it 
is considered a library or a loan from a friend - then it's OK - but digital 
libraries are a no-no.  Just so you'll know the official line..


Let me know if you have any questions.

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Mountain Man

Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 2:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 Transmission manual

Dieselhead wrote:
If somebody wants to get the files I don't mind hosting them, unless 
someone

else will do so.  I don't want to go to "pirate bay" or East european
websites.  Some are legit, but many are not.


I have a W123 folder that came out of the torrent zip file - which I
tossed, or it downloaded as a folder.
Shall I zip and email to you?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] 959

[l02turner]

EM -
IMO it's a German thing. Look at the German tanks of WW2 - awesome and 
terrible machines but hell to keep running.  Very complex systems required a 
lot of maintenance.


But of course I'd love to own a 959.  And yes they are legal here in some 
settings - but they must meet NHTSA safety reqmnts. - but a crash test is 
not mandated.  The owner of Pelican Porsche Parts bought one last year. 
There's a guy in Ca who bought 6 and made the needed mods.  His name escapes 
me at the moment - it'll probably come to me after I hit send. Start with a 
C perhaps. Canepa!  That's it! ;-)


IMHO a 996TT or 997TT is the reincarnation of the 959.  Twin Turbos, AWD and 
great looks without the rarity and ultra high cost - would love to one. 
Unfortunately,  the 911/997TT doesn't have that great looking 959 rear wing, 
Now, a McLaren F1 is another kettle of fish!


LarryT
91 300D


-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com

Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2010 12:44 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 959


...What was the saying about the old Porsche 959.  The Porsche engineers
see no
reason to make it simple, when they can make it with 3 times the number of
parts, and cost 10 times more, and do the same job...


Well but, that was 1987 and what other cars could do 200mph then? Never
certified here but the rest of the world bought them all.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] 140

[l02turner]

Kaleb -
You wrote <>
Is the problem with the S/SL600 all in the engine?  Or are the related 
systems the problem - and why?


Thanks for sharing -
(BTW, did you have a LF  door actuator?)

LarryT

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2010 11:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 140

I replaced the wiring harness in my 140 diesel for about $250, not
a big deal.

On 12/11/2010 9:57 PM, Dave Walton wrote:
Replacing all the wiring harnesses on my 94 S350 was<$400. If you are used 
to pricing you typically see on parts for a 240 (the last 240 I bought 
cost me $157 for the whole running car), then yes they are expensive but 
then it's my favorite "money pit". The S600s are to be avoided at any 
cost. A local guy here learned that the hard way and I learned it from him 
before I bought one. If you are concerned about the electronics, then get 
a 98 or 99 that has a standard ODBII port. You can debug those with a 
Harbor Freight code reader. The only people I know who complain about 
W140's are those who have not owned them or who own ones that are so far 
gone they should scrapped. It's a sweet ride!


If you are unfortunate enough to be stuck with a 99 S500 with ESP, I'll 
take it off you hands for $500 :-)


-Dave Walton



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

[l02turner]

Roger wrote << It does not seem to be an unreasonable requirement from 
MBNA>>


Ditto - I always considered it a bit over the top for them to provide 
roadside help for any MB no matter how old.


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: roger...@comcast.net

Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 2:35 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

I received the same letter, but my copy indicated that if I had spent 
$100.00 within the last 18 months or continue to receive service at an 
authorized dealer, I would continue to get free roadside assistance. I don't 
see this as a major problem. I could take my car in for an alignment once a 
year and maintain the free roadside assistance. It does not seem to be an 
unreasonable requirement from MBNA. Sometimes, I think we all get spoiled 
with too many "free" items.

Best Wishes,
Roger Hale
Monroe, Ga.
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Re: [MBZ] CL Scam?

[l02turner]

I ran across a similar scam for a 98 911 Turbo - a $40k-$50K car that he was 
willing to sell for $12K. He said the car was in Italy and if I would commit 
to buy and put a small deposit up ($1500 IIRC) he ship it to the airport 
nearest me.  I asked for details and it seemed the car was at a shipping 
location and he could not access it - but he assured m it would be easy to 
inspect/reject one it arrived at my local airport.


I have a "email friend" in UK who offered to go to Italy and inspect the 
car - if as advertised he tell me and I'd send the money and my friend would 
drive it back to UK for me to ship back.


Never heard from the seller after that...

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: roger...@comcast.net

Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 8:35 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] CL Scam?


Yes, this is a scam. I found one for a Jeep Cherokee. Jeep was in WI and his 
response to my email was the same...deploying back to Af and needed to sell 
by Dec. 05. This was a CL in Atlanta. I searched and also found it in Dallas 
and LA. In Dallas, he was a childless couple with 12 cars and needed to 
reduce his collection. In all cases, he was selling a $12,000 Jeep for 
$2700. Very appealing right? I know CL is big, but just like eBay, when it 
looks funny, it usually is. Run don't walk from these offers. They play on 
the hard economic times and poor soldier being redeployed tactics. These 
people should be publicly punished.

Best Wishes,
Roger Hale
Monroe, Ga.

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Re: [MBZ] Craigslist archive?

[l02turner]

Alex wrote: <>

I've had the same problem with their email forwarding service - last time I 
tried to sell something I was bombarded with all kinds of "quick money" 
offers.  a PITA but CL does reach a lot of people for free...


LarryT
91 300D



-Original Message- 
From: SteveB

Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 8:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Craigslist archive?

I set up a Google Voive phone number for Craigslist. It allows me to block
anyone that I do not want to hear from anymore. I have not had to block
anyone but it's a nice option as well as I get text messages at my regular
phone, where the number is forwarded to, and a voice mailbox I can check on
the computer. Phone listings move faster for me.
Steve


On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 10:58 AM, Alex Chamberlain
wrote:


On Sun, Dec 5, 2010 at 5:13 PM, Allan Streib 
wrote:
> David Bruckmann  writes:
>
>> But surely somewhere out there is a CL archive...???
>
> I'm not sure there would be.  CL would probably attempt to thwart it if
> anybody tried.

CL thwarts anything that will make their site useful.  Decent search,
for instance.

I've been in the same situation as David B. more than once.  How do
you know if someone let an ad expire because they sold the
whatever-it-was or because they gave up trying to sell it (and will
therefore probably be very receptive to offers, if only you can get
hold of them)?

If you don't want people calling you after you've already sold
something, don't put your phone number in the ad.  (Anyone who puts
their phone number in a CL ad is nuts anyway in my book.)  If you
don't want to deal with their emails, set up an autoresponder.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Door Lock Woes

[l02turner]

Thx Wilton - great suggestion.  If I can't find a decent sketch/etc. of the 
area I will open up the other side.


Thx Agn,
LarryT
91 300D


-Original Message- 
From: WILTON

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 12:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Door Lock Woes

'Haven't done any work on a 124 door lock assembly, but I'd bet that that
lock assemblies on  both sides of the car are identical, as they are on a
123 and 126 such that they can be exchanged from one side to the other, or
view the other to see how the first one goes together, works, etc.

Wilton
.
- Original Message - 
From: 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Door Lock Woes



Howdy -
I recently asked Kaleb for the price of a used Door Lock actuator – turns 
out my diagnosis was wrong.  When working on the door lock yesterday the 
tumbler assembly came out of the door with the key!   So instead of an 
actuator problem I believe the Tumbler Assy came loose from the actuator 
assy.  It looks like it may have been held together with a Cotter Pin or 
similar.


My next step is to remove the inner door panel again (I’m getting pretty 
good at it with practice!) and see if I can tell how/where the Tumbler and 
Lock Assy attach.  No help from the WSM – but it may be my searching 
skills rather than the Manual.  I plan to check Startec but it doesn’t 
usually have small details like that.


Has anyone done work on a W124 Door Lock Assy?  Especially where the 
Tumbler & Lock Actuator meet.


Thanks to all & Merry Christmas!  (It’ll be here soon!)

LarryT
91 300D

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[MBZ] Door Lock Woes

[l02turner]

Howdy - 
I recently asked Kaleb for the price of a used Door Lock actuator – turns out 
my diagnosis was wrong.  When working on the door lock yesterday the tumbler 
assembly came out of the door with the key!   So instead of an actuator problem 
I believe the Tumbler Assy came loose from the actuator assy.  It looks like it 
may have been held together with a Cotter Pin or similar.

My next step is to remove the inner door panel again (I’m getting pretty good 
at it with practice!) and see if I can tell how/where the Tumbler and Lock Assy 
attach.  No help from the WSM – but it may be my searching skills rather than 
the Manual.  I plan to check Startec but it doesn’t usually have small details 
like that.

Has anyone done work on a W124 Door Lock Assy?  Especially where the Tumbler & 
Lock Actuator meet.

Thanks to all & Merry Christmas!  (It’ll be here soon!)

LarryT
91 300D

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Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

[l02turner]

Thx Rich - will see if I can find it.

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Rich Thomas

Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 9:34 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

That linux-burn-the-program-to-a-CD utility works quite nicely, takes
about 5 min once you get the CD burned.  Boot off the CD, the program
finds the password file, you can change or delete it, and Bobbie's yer
auntie.

--R

On 12/4/2010 8:17 AM, l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

OK Guys -
I have a similar problem on a used Dell Laptop- but it seems the PO 
passworded the BIOS.  Before Win launches it asks for a PW and so far 
nothing has gotten me past it.  I asked Dell (IIRC) for help and they 
wanted all kinds of history - like the PO it was bought on, when, how 
much, etc. Naturally I don’t have any of that.  Right now it's a $25 
doorstop.

;-)

I'll try some of the solutions you all mentioned...

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- From: harry watkins
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

I have an Emachine with Vista Home and I need a way to get around the 
password on the first page.


This came with the stuff when I bought everything but the real-estate from 
a closed golf course.  The PO and one of the counter workers have given me 
everything they can think of but nothing has worked.


It comes up with the username displayed and has a blank for the password.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Harry
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Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

[l02turner]

I've heard that.  Unfortunately this is a Laptop and taking it apart down to 
the MoBo is not something I'm looking forward to.  I did change the laptop 
screen in my Acer laptp and it was pretty easy...  watched it done on 
Youtube which made things go easy.


Don't know if ya'll know it, but there are many very helpful "Instructional" 
videos on YouTube that I find very helpful.


Take care -- 
LarryT

91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: LWB250

Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 8:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

Should be a jumper o the MB somewhere that will reset the password.

Do some Googleing and see.  That is typical with a desktop machine - if 
there is a BIOS password the removal and replacement of the password jumper 
clears the password.


Dan

--- On Sat, 12/4/10, l02tur...@comcast.net  wrote:


From: l02tur...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Saturday, December 4, 2010, 8:17 AM
OK Guys -
I have a similar problem on a used Dell Laptop- but it
seems the PO passworded the BIOS.  Before Win launches
it asks for a PW and so far nothing has gotten me past
it.  I asked Dell (IIRC) for help and they wanted all
kinds of history - like the PO it was bought on, when, how
much, etc. Naturally I don’t have any of that.  Right
now it's a $25 doorstop.
;-)

I'll try some of the solutions you all mentioned...

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- From: harry watkins
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

I have an Emachine with Vista Home and I need a way to get
around the password on the first page.

This came with the stuff when I bought everything but the
real-estate from a closed golf course.  The PO and one
of the counter workers have given me everything they can
think of but nothing has worked.

It comes up with the username displayed and has a blank for
the password.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Harry
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Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

[l02turner]

I had Vista for a while - then, it slowed dramatically and I could not 
understand why.  I decided to reinstall and start over.  I had the original 
recover discs that came with the laptop - but once installed again, it 
locked the administrator out - according to Toshiba I needed to return the 
machine for warranty work - which always costs $30 or $40.Instead of 
putting more $ into Vista I'd go ahead and buy Win7 from Costco. It is a 
major improvement over Vista IMO.


Now that I've gotten used to Win7 quirks it is a improvement.  The biggest 
problem I have with Win is when navigating folders.   If I delete a folder 
for instance, the cursor pops back up to the top of the page when the delete 
is done.   A PITA then working with stuff because I must keep navigating 
back to where I was.  Unfortunately there are problems with the drivers I am 
still fixing.  But my printer (an HP Photo 7230 or something) only had a 
"fix" for the driver - there was no direct driver for my printer and I am 
using a driver for another HP machine - which doesn't have the proper stuff 
to use the Card Reader on the printer.   HP says that's the best driver 
available.  So for now, I have features on my printer I am unable to use.


I had to visit various manufacturer sites to get driver updates for the 
sound card, mouse, etc.  PITA - but it's still better than Vista.  I am not 
a fan of Vista.


I still prefer XP Pro to either of these.  IMO all MS does with these new 
OS's is add some lights and colors when they should have just fixed the true 
problems.  I don't think XP had many problems  but my new laptop came 
with vista and XP did not have the correct drivers to run the SATA HD (trust 
me, I tried).  Drivers are available but MS (deliberately IMO) made it very 
hard to install those drivers.


Lots of fun -

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Harry Watkins

Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 8:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

I followed Loren's advice and did a clean Vista install.  I then installed
all the updates, including ser pack 2.  I'm told that Vista is not a bad
system after the updates, we'll see.

So far its cooking good.

Thanks
Harry

- Original Message - 
From: 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help



OK Guys -
I have a similar problem on a used Dell Laptop- but it seems the PO 
passworded the BIOS.  Before Win launches it asks for a PW and so far 
nothing has gotten me past it.  I asked Dell (IIRC) for help and they 
wanted all kinds of history - like the PO it was bought on, when, how 
much, etc. Naturally I don’t have any of that.  Right now it's a $25 
doorstop.

;-)

I'll try some of the solutions you all mentioned...

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: harry watkins

Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

I have an Emachine with Vista Home and I need a way to get around the 
password on the first page.


This came with the stuff when I bought everything but the real-estate from 
a closed golf course.  The PO and one of the counter workers have given me 
everything they can think of but nothing has worked.


It comes up with the username displayed and has a blank for the password.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Harry
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Re: [MBZ] OT "netbooks" NOW -- NEED PARTS FOR MY '91 300D

[l02turner]

Thx Guys - went to Kaleb's website and found the right email address -

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: OK Don

Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 9:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT "netbooks" NOW -- NEED PARTS FOR MY '91 300D

Bzzzt - wrong. This is the list email address.

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 8:41 PM,  wrote:


Hey Kaleb - I think this is your personal email - but likely not -- 1st,
Acer makes one of the very best laptops - I've owned one as well as 
several

others and it was the best.  I know this is a reply to a Aug 09 post ;-)
 Hope the Acer is still kicking?

--


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] eBay 300D 2.5T

[l02turner]

Alex wrote: < The foglights are one of my favorite features <>>

Ditto - my wife drives out W124 at night often and uses the fog lights to 
watch for deer on the edge of the road.   The fogs spread a lot of  light to 
the L & R.  Very helpful.  The 123 fogs never seemed to do anything --


LarryT

-Original Message- 
From: Alex Chamberlain

Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 1:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] eBay 300D 2.5T

On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 7:39 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  
wrote:

I saw that car, looks like somebody painted the headlight doors.



Stupid thing to do.  The foglights are one of my favorite features on
the W124.  Unlike the under-the-bumper white foglights on most cars,
they actually work, and have saved my bacon more than once (driving in
heavy fog that the regular lights just bounce off).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

[l02turner]

OK Guys -
I have a similar problem on a used Dell Laptop- but it seems the PO 
passworded the BIOS.  Before Win launches it asks for a PW and so far 
nothing has gotten me past it.  I asked Dell (IIRC) for help and they wanted 
all kinds of history - like the PO it was bought on, when, how much, etc. 
Naturally I don’t have any of that.  Right now it's a $25 doorstop.

;-)

I'll try some of the solutions you all mentioned...

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: harry watkins

Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Need computer help

I have an Emachine with Vista Home and I need a way to get around the 
password on the first page.


This came with the stuff when I bought everything but the real-estate from a 
closed golf course.  The PO and one of the counter workers have given me 
everything they can think of but nothing has worked.


It comes up with the username displayed and has a blank for the password.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

[l02turner]

Thx Wilton -
Did you ever figure out where it came from?  I'll look very carefully at the 
next filter before I put another one it -


Thx for the info -
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: WILTON

Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 11:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

Years ago, I found the same type piece of plastic protruding from the same
hole in the center filter tube of one of my MB's; don't remember which one;
I pulled it out; 'never noticed anything else related to it.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310"


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?


I think your theory of a plastic remnant from the filter getting sucked up 
to the hole on the outside of the tube and then partially sucked into the 
tube is correct.


I'll bet that when you pulled on it, you got it all out.  Whatever is left 
will flow back to the pan, and then either settle out and leave with the 
next oil change or get sucked up by the pump, and filtered by the oil 
filter, and then taken out.


Worst case would be clogging of the oil jets which cool the pistons, which 
would probably result in melted piston syndrome.


Maybe you can blow air through the small hole, or force oil through, and 
then catch what comes out the bottom and sample for plastic?


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Sun 11/21/2010 12:19 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?



Thanks Max and all others who helped  ;-)  It's on the 91 300D -  the 
engine
seems fine.  I switched to Shell Rotella T organic 15W40 - I read they 
have

more Lubricity additive than other oils.

So far I cannot detect a difference other than slightly higher oil 
pressure

at fully warmed up idle.   I believe Shell makes a Synthetic Rotella T
(Triple T perhaps?) I may try next time.

Back to the plastic film in the metal tube - there's a ball bearing in the
tip to prevent oil flowing upward in the tube - which may be why I got so
little air when I tried to blow air from that end.I need to read the 
PDF

you provided -

I'll try soaking the tube in Solvent - perhaps lacquer thinner.  I still
have the piece I pulled out - will see what dissolves that the best...

Thanks to all who helped - (I'll see if I can find that nitwit who does 
oil

analysis)  ;-)

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message-
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

Which car?  Engine is probably toast.

Well, maybe not, after reading procedure 18-0999a on page 6 it says that
the center tube (aka return flow pipe) provides finely filtered oil back
into the oil pan.  So if this hole was plugged, flow to the engine
bearings is NOT affected, but less oil filtering is going on.

I know a fellow who sells these engine oil analysis kits, the lab
results might help determine if any damage was done?  ;)

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

I posted this on the 15th but rec'd no replies - I'll try again:

The long metal tube attached to the Filter Canister Cover has a hole in
the bottom and a hole near the top.  The upper hole had what appeared to
be a piece of plastic-like paper partly in the hole (like the cellopane
on a pack of cigarettes but much stronger).
I pulled it and believe all came out although I had to
tug pretty hard.I tried to blow through the tube opening with my
compressor and I got some oil seepage from the hole.   I'm assuming the
piece of "stuff" (I think I'll retrieve it from the trash) was stuck to
the filter perhaps? and came loose then was sucked into the upper hole?

Don't know how long it's been like this ---

What is the tube for?  What do the holes do?

Can the tube be removed from the cover?

Thanks -
LarryT
91 300D


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For new and

Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

[l02turner]

Thanks Max -
   Hopefully you're right about me getting it all out.  The difficulty with 
trying to blow the tube clear is the  ball bearing check valve - as I 
understand it, I may be able to put pressure on the bottom end of the tube 
but the small hole at the top of the tube seems to small to let anything 
through.  It's been a couple of weeks since I found the problem and so far 
no indication that anything is wrong.  So hopefully I got by without any 
damage.


   I'll do a Oil Analysis after I have a couple thousand miles to see if 
there's anything odd.


Merry Christmas -- 
LarryT

91 300D 2.5T



-Original Message- 
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310

Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

I think your theory of a plastic remnant from the filter getting sucked up 
to the hole on the outside of the tube and then partially sucked into the 
tube is correct.


I'll bet that when you pulled on it, you got it all out.  Whatever is left 
will flow back to the pan, and then either settle out and leave with the 
next oil change or get sucked up by the pump, and filtered by the oil 
filter, and then taken out.


Worst case would be clogging of the oil jets which cool the pistons, which 
would probably result in melted piston syndrome.


Maybe you can blow air through the small hole, or force oil through, and 
then catch what comes out the bottom and sample for plastic?


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Sun 11/21/2010 12:19 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?



Thanks Max and all others who helped  ;-)  It's on the 91 300D -  the engine
seems fine.  I switched to Shell Rotella T organic 15W40 - I read they have
more Lubricity additive than other oils.

So far I cannot detect a difference other than slightly higher oil pressure
at fully warmed up idle.   I believe Shell makes a Synthetic Rotella T
(Triple T perhaps?) I may try next time.

Back to the plastic film in the metal tube - there's a ball bearing in the
tip to prevent oil flowing upward in the tube - which may be why I got so
little air when I tried to blow air from that end.I need to read the PDF
you provided -

I'll try soaking the tube in Solvent - perhaps lacquer thinner.  I still
have the piece I pulled out - will see what dissolves that the best...

Thanks to all who helped - (I'll see if I can find that nitwit who does oil
analysis)  ;-)

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message-
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

Which car?  Engine is probably toast.

Well, maybe not, after reading procedure 18-0999a on page 6 it says that
the center tube (aka return flow pipe) provides finely filtered oil back
into the oil pan.  So if this hole was plugged, flow to the engine
bearings is NOT affected, but less oil filtering is going on.

I know a fellow who sells these engine oil analysis kits, the lab
results might help determine if any damage was done?  ;)

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

I posted this on the 15th but rec'd no replies - I'll try again:

The long metal tube attached to the Filter Canister Cover has a hole in
the bottom and a hole near the top.  The upper hole had what appeared to
be a piece of plastic-like paper partly in the hole (like the cellopane
on a pack of cigarettes but much stronger).
I pulled it and believe all came out although I had to
tug pretty hard.I tried to blow through the tube opening with my
compressor and I got some oil seepage from the hole.   I'm assuming the
piece of "stuff" (I think I'll retrieve it from the trash) was stuck to
the filter perhaps? and came loose then was sucked into the upper hole?

Don't know how long it's been like this ---

What is the tube for?  What do the holes do?

Can the tube be removed from the cover?

Thanks -
LarryT
91 300D


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Re: [MBZ] Unknown Part

[l02turner]

Thanks Kaleb - sometimes the list gets so much mail it's hard for me to sort 
through it all.  A major 'puter melt down forced me to reload a bunch of 
stuff and I noticed your answer to my question -


Merry Christmas
LarryT
91 300D


-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 10:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Unknown Part

Its for the egr stuff

LarryT wrote:

Hi Rusty -
   I'm trying to identify a part I need  - it's part of the accelerator 
linkage and located above #5 GP.  It has a square electrical plug attached 
to the drivers side of the switch and it has two little rollers that 
contact part of the linkage that rotates as the pedal is pushed causing 
the rollers to move.  One of the rollers has a flat spot.


   It looks almost like a Thermo-tine (sp?) device.  I looked at EPC and 
the WSM without any luck.  I will ask the list in he hopes they know what 
it is.


   BTW - I just ordered a GP Relay.

Thx
Larry

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL,
91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT "netbooks" NOW -- NEED PARTS FOR MY '91 300D

[l02turner]

Hey Kaleb - I think this is your personal email - but likely not -- 
1st, Acer makes one of the very best laptops - I've owned one as well as 
several others and it was the best.  I know this is a reply to a Aug 09 post 
;-)  Hope the Acer is still kicking?


Mostly -  I need the door lock actuator for my driver's door - '91 300D 2.5T
(VIN: WDBEB28D1MB364746)

Got one?  If the price is right I also need one for the F Passenger door.

Please reply with price and availability -

Thanks!  Merry Christmas!

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 6:05 PM
To: Banned List ; mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] OT "netbooks"

I had one of my employees laptop go down today, so I went by staples and
bought one of these Acer netbooks as they call it, for $299.  It only
weights about 2 lbs and its got a 160gb hard drive and 1 gig of ram.
WOW, I cant believe how nice these little computers are.  This is going
to be great hauling around on a car lot all day.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

[l02turner]

Thanks Max and all others who helped  ;-)  It's on the 91 300D -  the engine 
seems fine.  I switched to Shell Rotella T organic 15W40 - I read they have 
more Lubricity additive than other oils.


So far I cannot detect a difference other than slightly higher oil pressure 
at fully warmed up idle.   I believe Shell makes a Synthetic Rotella T 
(Triple T perhaps?) I may try next time.


Back to the plastic film in the metal tube - there's a ball bearing in the 
tip to prevent oil flowing upward in the tube - which may be why I got so 
little air when I tried to blow air from that end.I need to read the PDF 
you provided -


I'll try soaking the tube in Solvent - perhaps lacquer thinner.  I still 
have the piece I pulled out - will see what dissolves that the best...


Thanks to all who helped - (I'll see if I can find that nitwit who does oil 
analysis)  ;-)


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310

Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

Which car?  Engine is probably toast.

Well, maybe not, after reading procedure 18-0999a on page 6 it says that
the center tube (aka return flow pipe) provides finely filtered oil back
into the oil pan.  So if this hole was plugged, flow to the engine
bearings is NOT affected, but less oil filtering is going on.

I know a fellow who sells these engine oil analysis kits, the lab
results might help determine if any damage was done?  ;)

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 7:14 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

I posted this on the 15th but rec'd no replies - I'll try again:

The long metal tube attached to the Filter Canister Cover has a hole in
the bottom and a hole near the top.  The upper hole had what appeared to
be a piece of plastic-like paper partly in the hole (like the cellopane
on a pack of cigarettes but much stronger).
I pulled it and believe all came out although I had to
tug pretty hard.I tried to blow through the tube opening with my
compressor and I got some oil seepage from the hole.   I'm assuming the
piece of "stuff" (I think I'll retrieve it from the trash) was stuck to
the filter perhaps? and came loose then was sucked into the upper hole?

Don't know how long it's been like this --- 


What is the tube for?  What do the holes do?

Can the tube be removed from the cover?

Thanks -
LarryT
91 300D


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[MBZ] Oil Filter Cover metal Tube ?

[l02turner]

I posted this on the 15th but rec’d no replies – I’ll try again:

The long metal tube attached to the Filter Canister Cover has a hole in the 
bottom and a hole near the 
top.  The upper hole had what appeared to be a piece of plastic-like paper 
partly in the hole (like the cellopane on a pack of cigarettes but much 
stronger).  
I pulled it and believe all came out although I had to 
tug pretty hard.I tried to blow through the tube opening with my 
compressor and I got some oil seepage from the hole.   I'm assuming the 
piece of "stuff" (I think I'll retrieve it from the trash) was stuck to the 
filter perhaps? and came loose then was sucked into the upper hole?

Don't know how long it's been like this --- 

What is the tube for?  What do the holes do?

Can the tube be removed from the cover?

Thanks - 
LarryT
91 300D


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Re: [MBZ] Fuel stabilizer

[l02turner]

Jerry -
Without stabilizer the fuel starts to break down in 20 days or less. 
Actually the process begins when the refiners additive starts to wear-off. 
I've had excellent luck with Sta-Bil and use it in all of my vehicles that 
are not driven regularly.  Things like lawn mowers, chain saws, etc - 
anything not used frequently.


The time the fuel is protected depends on the amount of Stabil added - 
typicaly 1 oz per gallon is recommended - for long term (over winter) I use 
2-3 X's that much.I believe it works (in part) by preventing important 
components of the gas from evaporating as quickly.


As I understand it, the Stabil preserves the octane rating and the fuels 
ability to ignite.My lawn mower always starts on the 1st pull  even 
after sitting for 3 or more months.   To get the best from it the 
instructions must be followed and the engine allowed to run after Stabil is 
added to let the Stabil get through the fuel lines and into the 
carburetor/injection system.


As I said, I am a believer and user of StaBil - it stays in my 911 and all 
small gas engines used for yard care.  All have had no fuel problems except 
for the push mower which has suffered from the use of Ethanol -  according 
to the repair shop the needle valve & seat are damaged by Ethanol.


Diesel Fuel (IMO) is more stable than gasoline and does not need Sta-bil as 
much.


The TV commercial tells a pretty accurate story...

Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Jerry Herrman

Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 7:52 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Fuel stabilizer

I'm seeking answers about products such as Sta-Bil which claim to preserve 
your supply of gasoline and prevent it from deteriorating.


1. How long before gas deteriorates to the point of concern? I've heard 20 
days and I've heard 30 days.


2. What exactly is it preventing? A bad smell, varnish?

3. How long will these products hold off the inevitable deterioration?

4. What is the shelf life of an unopened container of this stuff?

5. Shelf life of a container that has been partially used?

6. I've heard mixing old gas with new makes it OK to  run in a car. Correct?

7. Does this stuff work for diesel fuel?

8. Will adding a can of fuel system cleaner (like Chevron Pro-gard) ) undo 
any harm that came from using old gas?  this also apply to lawnmowers?


Be interested in getting informed opinions.

Jerry
1982 240D


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[MBZ] Oil Filter Cannister Tube

[l02turner]

I found something strange today when changing the oil.The tube attached 
to the Filter Canister Cover has a hole in the bottom and a hole near the 
top.  The upper hole had what appeared to be a piece of plastic-like paper 
partly in the hole.  I pulled it and believe all came out although I had to 
tug pretty hard.I tried to blow through the tube opening with my 
compressor and I got some oil seepage from the hole.   I'm assuming the 
piece of "stuff" (I think I'll retrieve it from the trash) was stuck to the 
filter perhaps? and came loose then was sucked into the upper hole?


Don't know how long it's been like this --- 


What is the tube for?  What do the holes do?

Can the tube be removed from the cover?

Anyone got a spare?  ;-)

Thx !

LarryT
91 300D 2.5T 




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Re: [MBZ] ADHD

[l02turner]

I read somewhere that something like 70% of kids entering colleges must 1st 
take remedial courses to learn basic math and English.Sad...


BTW, There's a TV commercial pushing a new "reading" where babies and young 
kids are shown reading at very young ages.  They fail to mention, the kids 
have memorized the photos to know what word they represent.  I went to Jr HS 
with a bunch of kids taught like this in the local school system in the 50s 
and 60s (very progressive you know).  Trouble is when presented with a new 
word they have no clue what it says.  So they're lost.


Others, taught phonetically can sound the word out and read it properly 
often learning the meaning by the context it was used in in the sentence.


People always want to take the easy route it seems.  It's not always the 
best...


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Dieselhead

Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 10:50 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ADHD

Our kids got that "spelling doesn't matter"  "just get your ideas on
paper" crap at school in the US too.  When they got home, they were
told that spelling does matter, and we tried to illustrate WHY it
matters.

One is finishing up his Ph.D. and the other spells and writes quite nicely 
too.


These days, if you send your kids to school, you have to "unlearn"
them at home and teach them properly anyway.  So, you may as well
homeschool in the first place.



You know, it was  close enough that we all knew what he meant.

My children, now in their 20's were taught in our schools, that it was more 
important to get one's ideas on the page than it was to do it correctly. I 
guess, on the assumption that it could be later edited and perhaps that 
they would learn to spell etc., by osmosis and the teachers would not have 
to put any real effort into such boring sujects as spelling and grammar.


The result is that one of my son's has managed to learn by himself - he has 
a Master's Degree now - and the other is never going to win any spelling 
bees etc. The younger one was quite happy not to have to worry about things 
like spelling and at the age of 22, still does not do well in that regard.


Randy


On 07/11/2010 10:15 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

...Around here they seem to just let the kids wonder the classrooms,
wonder the halls, listen to their headphones during class, just
wantever it seem.  Geez


A living example of the subject. Why don't you have someone edit this for
you and repost it.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] made up statistics

[l02turner]

The $40K/year number is generally in the larger cities with heavy union 
control - and unfortunately the places with the highest spending typically 
have the lowest achievement.  Wash DC is one of the worst - very poor 
education and very high spending.   This is also where minority families 
pushed the hardest for School Vouchers to level the playing field.  But they 
lost, unions and politicians won.


There's an excellent article called "The Dumbing Down of America" which can 
be found easily on the net - if need be I’ll be happy to send you a copy on 
request.


It's lengthy at 700+ pages (IIRC 300+ pages are Appendixes) but each page is 
full of disturbing info about the American Ed. System and how it got that 
way.It's a well documented, well written white paper.


As Jim Cathway said >.  No truer words were ever spoke


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Jim Cathey

Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 4:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] made up statistics

The average cost to keep a kid in school for 6-7 hours a day varies, but 
it is mostly 30-40k a year, about what it "costs" to house a prisoner full 
time.


We pay about $4500/year for our 3rd grader.  Private, there
are no subsidies whatsoever.  And these kids _learn_.  I remember
Kindergarten, we had blocks.  These kids are doing Venn diagrams...
Three teachers, 22 students, four grades.  They rent space in the
basement of a church.

You want to kill something, give a government a monopoly on it.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: 1991 mercedes 2.5 turbo diesel - $1000 (windermere)]

[l02turner]

I know wat you mean - if it were closer I'd buy it as a spare.  It’s the 
same color as my 91 2.5...  for $1000 it would be a money saver in the long 
run - it's easy to spend that much over the years..


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 4:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: 1991 mercedes 2.5 turbo diesel - $1000 
(windermere)]


why cant it be closer?

On 11/5/2010 7:30 PM, Fred Moir wrote:

Not Mine etc.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel rocks.

 Original Message 
Subject: 1991 mercedes 2.5 turbo diesel - $1000 (windermere)
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 2010 17:28:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net



fred.s...@yahoo.com has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2043405364.html to 
contact the person who posted this.


 




   1991 mercedes 2.5 turbo diesel

Date: 2010-11-05, 8:25AM

good engine bad transmission tires and interior is in good shape paint not 
so great engine alone is worth more than the asking price please call 386 
848 7931 thanks





   * Location: windermere
   * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
 commercial interests

Original URL: http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2043405364.html

 



/this craigslist posting was forwarded to you by someone using our
email-a-friend feature - if you want to prevent these, please go to:
/http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/te/lJnZz5CZyFGdlZHQ6lmcu42b0VmbG

 


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] MB Info Access - to http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/

[l02turner]

Howdy -
Tried to open http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/ but ai get a "access is 
forbidden".  I thought I had been in before but don;t recall doing anything 
different.


Is it still possible to get into this site?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components

[l02turner]

you wrote>>


Good suggestion - my lower pivot was twisting so I bought all the 
replacement parts - when I removed all the parts, I found the damper, 
spring, tensioner and lower pivot were all bad - and with only 100k on my 
engine/car I think Marshall's comment when he said <>> is accurate.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components


Here's a quick rule of thumb when replacing the serpentine belt. Check the 
operation of all the drive components, idler, tensioner and so on. If any 
of these have excessive play or are noisy, replace it. They don't always 
last the life of the car so its a good bet to replace them if you car has 
high mileage.

my 2 cents

69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata


-Original Message-
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 14:04:12 -0400
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components


M.Afzaal Khan wrote:
Hi!   At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know 
what
is the life of a belt tensioner and other  idler pulley's associated with 
it


The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines
seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi. The later ones seemed good for
75-150kmi. By the '90s they may still be better (the aftermarket ones
MAY not be - I haven't had any of them in long enough to know). Factory
shocks seem to last 75+kmi while aftermarket ones seem more likely to
fail by 50kmi. The belts on my cars seem to go for 75kmi as long as the
arm and idler are in good working order (a bad arm, idler, shock or any
belt driven accessory will cause a belt to fail prematurely).

YMMV as climatic and environmental factors DO play a role in life of
these parts.

Marshall
--
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] ODO REPAIR

[l02turner]

There's 2 big time speedo shops for German cars are:

North Hollywood Speedometer (did all my 911 gauges)
www.nhspeedometer.com

Palo Alto Speedometer
www.paspeedo.com

Both have been around for a long time and have excellent references -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "wilton strickland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] ODO REPAIR



Anybody know name/address of speedometer repair shop?
Can't do it myself.

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[l02turner]

Ned wrote:<< I've done it with as little as a new manifold gasket>>

Thanks Ned,
I'm ordering parts - I'm getting the 2 intake manifold/crossover pipe 
gaskets, new fuel pipe clips and new GPs.


Is there anything else I should have on hand?  I already have 1/4" &  3/8" 
torque wrenches - but it sounds like it'll be easier if I get some wobble 
sockets or extensions -


Except for having a minature mechanic in my tool box - is there anything I'm 
forgetting?  Is any gasket compound recommended for the intake manifold 
gasket or does it go on dry?


Thanks for your and others comments -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5



Larry:
I agree with everything the others posted about what to have ready.
I've done it with as little as a new manifold gasket.  But I don't 
recommend

going that economically.

But I might add that a torque wrence is useful for getting the mainfold 
back

on tight enough without
stripping the aluminum head.  My 606 engine uses torx (sp?) type bolts to
fasten the manifold - so be ready in case that is what your engine has.  I
bought what seems to be a good enough 1/4" torque wrench from Harbor 
Freight

for ~$10 IIRC.

Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again

[l02turner]

Randy,
   One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make sure 
you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your butt 
to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back and 
forth.  The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an 
uncomfortable seating position -


Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)

A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
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- Original Message - 
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again


I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and 
partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no paint 
of any sort from the factory and this is
just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is 
toast of course which was the reason for
looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair pad 
and am going the "new" route.  My thought
was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding stuff 
that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on 
here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of 
light canvas type material and use it to
wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to use 
a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to 
bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
fibrous stuff should be  sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides of 
the larger piece to provide the amount of
bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original 
horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base. 
It actually seems to be keeping my rear
off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or to 
high as the steering wheel will become

more difficult to slide under.
So, any comment from those that have done this?

Randy B



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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components

[l02turner]

I replaced my tensioner components at 104k Miles - for me, it's easier to 
change all the pieces at once - also, since the lower pivot can really 
damage things if it breaks - it's the critical piece.  It should be changed 
as soon as you can see it is now longer aligned with the belt - it will cock 
closer to the engine.


Also - to check the lower tensioner - look at it while the engine idles - 
you can use a long sturdy screwdriver to pry the tensioner back into 
alignment -


To change everything was ~$200 in parts from Rusty.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components



M.Afzaal Khan wrote:
Hi!   At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know 
what
is the life of a belt tensioner and other  idler pulley's associated with 
it


The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines
seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi. The later ones seemed good for
75-150kmi. By the '90s they may still be better (the aftermarket ones
MAY not be - I haven't had any of them in long enough to know). Factory
shocks seem to last 75+kmi while aftermarket ones seem more likely to
fail by 50kmi. The belts on my cars seem to go for 75kmi as long as the
arm and idler are in good working order (a bad arm, idler, shock or any
belt driven accessory will cause a belt to fail prematurely).

YMMV as climatic and environmental factors DO play a role in life of
these parts.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic

[l02turner]

Hi Robert,
You wrote:<< actually GROWING food or RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for >>>

Couldn't agree more.  My Uncle (now my cousin) has a fam in SC - that must 
be one of the hardest jobs around.  Long hours with low pay.  He works from 
4 or 5am until 9 or 10pm many days.  And all that actually GROWING food or 
RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for  expensive equipment (which is 
necessary to compete) always needs maintanence.


The small farms are disappearing in this country - as little as 100 years 
ago 70%-80% of the population lived in rural (i.e., farms) and now it's 
reversed.  Only the big corporations with huge equipment budgets and low 
wages can survive.  This country produces something like 60% of the *worlds* 
food !  It's the more productive system ever seen but the days of the small 
farm (less than 500 acres or so) is long gone.


As far as the illegal aliens coming here for work - that's a fact of life - 
also, there's drug dealers and gangs coming across the border terrorizing 
the US citizens living in areas where the bad guys like to go.  Recently, 
the Mexican army was seen on the US side of the border protecting drug 
gangs!  It's time to stop the traffic at the border - then deal with those 
already here.  But 1st, we need to secure our borders.


Anyway - have a nice weekend - it'll be here before you know it ;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic



The food costs are definitely subsidized by the cheap illegal labour. It
used to be ,here in Arkansas, farm families would survive on the extra
income that they could make working in the chicken plants ( since they
can't make enough to live on actually GROWING food or RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for what little they get ) then a few
years back, Tyson started advertising in Mexico that they had jobs for
people coming this way ( for substantially less then he was paying the
locals ) and next thing you know Springdale looks like downtown
Tiajauna  and the farm families have nowhere to turn for income (
especially since the few manufacturing options are steadily moving to
China )

Then to top it off, a bunch of years back Tyson started a deal to
supposedly help family farms put up more chicken houses to boost
production since it's hard to get financing for small farms ( I almost
signed on the line for this one...good thing my BS detector was tuned in
), so he'd finance the chicken houses and get the farmer to put up his
house land against it as his part. Well not too far down the line after
a clean out they would magically not get any new chicks for longer and
longer periods of time until they would default, loose their house , and
magically a few families of mexicans would be moved in to work the
operation for wages ( small wages )

There are already plenty of people here to do everything, just not for
nothing.
as far as food prices, the cost of organic foods are basically what food
should really cost if everyone involved were making a living wage.

-Robert


redghost wrote:

Maybe all this cheap stuff is not really in our best interest.  it is
nice to be able to accumulate all sorts of garbage nobody really needs,
but when you have something you really want, do you go out and get the
least expensive version, or do you spend what it takes to get the right
item?

I am sure that Gary does not quibble about his ammo, since the cheap
stuff will mess up his guns.  Or Rusty is going for least cost care for
his father.  And who among us is looking for the cheap chinese parts
for our benz.  These are all health and safety issues.  Might be that
having all this cheap illegal labor is the same health and safety
discussion.

The illegals are not above breaking the law to succeed.  Dealing drugs,
smuggling lord knows what, taking the place of native born or real
citizens in the schools and hospitals.  Stealing identities and social
security numbers is not in the interest of most real Americans.

Could be that all the cheap fast food really is not good for us.  The
plastic tomatoes and lettuce in that burger are really tasty, NOT!  And
if we paid the real cost to procure the foods we ate, I think we would
be more discerning in what we tossed down our gullets.

If we see that importing labor is costing our local economy more than
it provides, we may see the real cost to the community.  Walmart comes
in and sells us chinese junk, undercutting the local merchants and
those Main Street businesses fail, taking the other merchants, and in
the end the town.

On M

[MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components

[l02turner]

Hi! Just finished replacing the components of the belt tensioner - took 
about 2 hours - removed the shroud and fan then the other pieces - but I 
could figure out how to get the upper pivot off - thought it was a allen 
bolt but closer inspection says no.  But I looked at it closely and decided 
it looked fine anyway and re-used it.  The lower tensioner pivot and the 
spring and damper all had play in them and the engine is much quieter now.


Glad it's over ;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[l02turner]

Tan wrote:<>

Thanks Tan - Understand all your comments - but the one above - what am I 
looking for?  Anything other than leaks?

BTW, what does the aux water pump do?  When does it operate?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tan Qu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5



Just taking off the cross-over pipe does not give you
much room to work with on this car. It's much easier
with the intake manifold off, especially on OM602.962
where the glow plug insertion is in a inclined
position. So you will also need the gasket at where
the intake manifold connects to the head.

There will be two or three allen bolts that will be a
little hard to get to. You will need some wobble head
extensions. Removing/re-installing these bolts to me
is the biggest part of the job. Otherwise a
straightfoward job.

A few tips if I may:

1. Clean the work area really good before you start
2. stuff the 5 holes on the head and the turbo
discharge pipe with clean rugs/paper towel once the
intake manifold is off, in case something accidentally
drop in there
3. Get a glow plug reamer. Ream the glow plug holes
before you put new plugs in.
4. Like others said, replace all injection line clips
where you are there.
5. Check the auxillary water pump located on the fire
wall right behind #5 cylinder. Sometimes it is hard to
see from the top with the intake manifold on.

Tan



--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


You'll need the gasket where the cross-over pipe
connects to the
manifold. when it's off is a good time to replace
all the plastic and
rubber clips that keep the injector lines from
vibrating and cracking.

On 5/31/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ned wrote:<>>
>
> Thanks Ned,
> I guess that's the part I was dreading - and
getting the auxilliary stuff
> that mounts to the intake manifold looks like a
bear - all those metal and
> rubber lines along with accel linkage.
>
> What gaskets should I have on hand to replace if
needed?  I assume the
> intake manifold gaskets needs to be re-newed at
the time?Anything else I
> should replace?
>
> TIA -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For
my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
>
>
> > << Thanks to all -- I'll replace the GPs when I
feel like punishing
> > myself.
> > ;-\>>
> >
> > Larry:
> > It's really not that bad if you remove the
intake manifold.
> >
> > Ned Kleinhenz
> > '95 E300D x2
> > '85 300D
> > '80 300TD
> > ___
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> >


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> >
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>
>
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>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing...
after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply
Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[l02turner]

Ned wrote:<>>

Thanks Ned,
I guess that's the part I was dreading - and getting the auxilliary stuff 
that mounts to the intake manifold looks like a bear - all those metal and 
rubber lines along with accel linkage.


What gaskets should I have on hand to replace if needed?  I assume the 
intake manifold gaskets needs to be re-newed at the time?Anything else I 
should replace?


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5


<< Thanks to all -- I'll replace the GPs when I feel like punishing 
myself.

;-\>>

Larry:
It's really not that bad if you remove the intake manifold.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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[MBZ] Wood Trim on Doors W124

[l02turner]

Hello,
The wood trim on the drivers door is not tight against the door toward the 
rear - I've searched the WSM for info about how they're attached without 
success.  Should I remove the whole door panel?  How can I most easily 
tighten the wood trim?


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5T

[l02turner]

Thanks Marshall - I'm planning t change them because I have 104k on them - 
plus I have cold running problem I'm mentioned here - ahd you suggested it's 
possibly carbon build up which needs driving long distances to cure - which 
it;s getting.  My wife drives it every day to work - 100 miles RT at 70mph. 
With Summer here it should clean itself out more quickly.


Thanks to all -- I'll replace the GPs when I feel like punishing myself. ;-\

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5T



andrew strasfogel wrote:

Does anyone know what the symptoms are for one bad glow plug out of five?
Do they go bad gradually or do they just wake up dead one morning?


I don't understand the question. When a plug goes bad the resistance
usually increase some to a lot.

A set of glow plugs in an engine that has after start glow function
doesn't last as long as they do in older cars. 90-150kmi would be good
life for an engine with 15-30 second after glow. The later engines with
up to 180 second after glow are likely to fail after 60-100kmi depending
on how many miles per cold start.

If you think the plugs are all original and you have more than 100kmi on
them, I'd CHANGE them all and keep the good ones as spares.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5T

[l02turner]

I haven't checked them - because it;s easier to replace them than check them 
;-)  but the dash light still works fine.  I do have a cold running 
problem - but it;s getting better with driving.

And, I'm in no hurry to replace them - just preparing myself -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5T


larry, are you certain that any of the plugs are bad?  they're not really 
a
maintenance item unless you're in a cold clime, and i wouldn't replace 
them

until the dash light stops working.  Then replace all 5.

BTW, I agree -  on my 123, they were a snap to replace (one 12mm 
ratcheting

wrench later).  the 124 plugs look like a bear.

On 5/30/06, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Does anyone know what the symptoms are for one bad glow plug out of five?
Do they go bad gradually or do they just wake up dead one morning?

1983 300TD
1985 300CD


On 5/30/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Howdy -
> I plan to replace my GP's during the next week or 2 and compared to my
> W123
> 240D, the 91 300D 2.5T looks like it's going to be a huge project.  It
> appears as though I need to remove the intake manifold to get access to
> *any* of the GPs.
>
> The WSM uses the old stand-by of remove the old GPs and install new
ones.
> -
> or something to that extent.
>
> Anybody done this that can tell me an easier way to proceed?   Else,
I'll
> start removing stuff, marking everything, taking some photos and be
> careful.
>
> TIA -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
>
>
>
> ___
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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[MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5T

[l02turner]

Howdy -
I plan to replace my GP's during the next week or 2 and compared to my W123 
240D, the 91 300D 2.5T looks like it's going to be a huge project.  It 
appears as though I need to remove the intake manifold to get access to 
*any* of the GPs.


The WSM uses the old stand-by of remove the old GPs and install new ones. - 
or something to that extent.


Anybody done this that can tell me an easier way to proceed?   Else, I'll 
start removing stuff, marking everything, taking some photos and be careful.


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

[l02turner]

Hi Kevin,
Glad you were able to start it -

One thing you should check - the control rod between the IP and the AT - 
back then (like my 78) there was a rod between the IP and AT - at the AT 
there should be a bushing where the rod attaches to the tranny bracket. 
It's very easy to replace and will make a *HUGE* difference in the way the 
car drives!  My bushing fell out and the car had delayed upshifts causing 
relaxed acceleration (which in a 240D is really saying something) and cannot 
believe how radically the performance changed.  The downshifts were also 
delayed when slowing down - making acceleration slow - and requiring the 
kick-down switch under the acc pedal to be pressed to get a downshift.  At 
some point they changed to a vacuum control - but not sure when that 
happened.


The part is not shown in the Parts catalogs - it costs between $2 & $2.50 
depending on dealer.  If the bushng is missing or damaged let me know & I'll 
get the part number for you.  I had to get MB Classics involved to find the 
info -  Installation is very easy - crawl under and loosen nuts for bracket 
and you can remove the control rod - put it on the bench to install the new 
bushing and reinstall  --


OK, Wiper problem - the most likely problem is the nut holding the wiper arm 
to the wiper assy has come loose.  Should be an easy fix - tighten and put a 
drop of Loctite to prevent it coming - not an uncommon problem.


next - the turn signals - not sure but probably not a big problem - bulbs, 
ground, --


next - this car has the Fast Glow Plugs - I told the owner he needed them 
and he called me while installing them.  He'd had the head rebuilt but it 
didn't help the starting problem - he finally took my advice and installed 
the fast glow plugs which solved his cold start problem.  Maybe you want to 
replace the GPs installed now or ??  You can buy new GPs from Rusty BTW. The 
wiring should be OK unless damaged.


Door problem - I believe there's manual locks - getting the parts should not 
be a problem - Kaleb probably has used stuff.


The fog lights were always clear back then - not sure when it changed but my 
78 came with clear.  I changed to yellow a few years ago.


Good luck - HTHs -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..



To everyone that took the time to comment on my questions - Thanks. We got
it started and put some money down to hold it. It took a lot of cranking
and we had to purchase a new group 49 battery to get it going. It has the
dreaded loop glowplugs. We dropped in a clear fuel filter that I had in a
box, turns out no worries about algae yet.

It does have a few issues I'll need to address:

1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side does.
Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)

2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn signal
was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?

3) Where do I get the loop to parallel glow plug conversion kit?
Rusty/Hursty; you have these?

4) The passenger rear door had no interior door lock / unlock thingy and
the door doesn't open. Apparently, manually locked and power locks aren't
working. Any ideas on approaches to getting this door unlocked and open?

Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
typical. Comments?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D soon?


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Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[l02turner]

You asked << Don't you have to separate them to mount the engine on a 
stand?>>


Yep - the engine will mount to the 'engine stand' using the bolt holes where 
the engine and tranny meet - seperate them and then attach it to the stand. 
You'll need to make sure you have some quality bolts that will take the 
weight of the engine - which I'm guessing is in the 400# range - maybe 500# 
with the tranny.


I prefer to remove just the engine - that way you won't need to disconnect 
the prop shaft (noting the orientation of the flanges to each other so the 
balance isn't disturbed) or the shift mechanism, the large brace under the 
tranny that supports it - not sure what's involved on your MB but other cars 
can be difficult - and one of the larger problems is having enough room in 
front of the engine as you tilt the eng/tranny assy to remove it so the 
radiator isn't damaged unless you plan to remove it also in which case the 
oil cooler lines will also be disconnected and they'll leak quite a bit - 
you also may have to contend with the radiator bracket (the frame that 
surrounds the radiator) which cannot be removed as I recall.  Removing just 
the engine means you remove the engine/trans mounting bolts and then you'll 
need 4" or so to clean.  Place a 2x4 across the torque converter and bolt it 
in place using one of the eng/mounting mounting holes to keep the TC in 
place.


But if you want to remove them both together study the underside of the 
transmission carefullyas you'll also need to disconnect the speedo, vacuum 
lines and the bracket that supports the exhaust (at least on W123s).


Good luck - let us know how to help   -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?



Thanks for the feedback and information.
I intend to remove the engine and transmission as a unit and leave them
together.
Don't you have to separate them to mount the engine on a stand?
I think I can set the whole works on large blocks at the 
motor/transmission

mount points as someone suggested.

Jim mentioned the only thing I was concerned about - loosing the A/C 
charge.

But Larry says when he removed an engine from a 240D he just tied the
dimounted A/C compressor off to the side. I'll look into that 
possiblility.
That might save a lot of time and expense if I can avoid sucking down the 
AC

system and replacing all the R-234a when I put things back together.

Thanks again,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

My first job out of high school was as a mechanics apprentice at a 
VW/Porsche deaership and I've always been a fan of VWs - hot rod and stock. 
One of the german mechanics had a 65 bug with dual carbs,etc and it was 
amazingly fast.  Of course, whenever a Porsche came in for service I'd try 
to get the ticket - but they kept me on  a short lease - plus they nicknamed 
me Lassie because my hair was a little long.  I'd get 356s for oil changes 
and of course, a road test was needed.  18 yrs old driving a Porsche - what 
could be cooler?  The 356s were very fast also - they were pretty light. 
This was the late 60s and the 911s were pretty popular - I remember a 67 
911S Targa -in Bahama Yellow - Awesome was the only adjective that fit.  ;-)


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height



IIRC, Porsche and VW (w/IRS rear suspension) share a similar rear end
design.  In high school, I owned a '72 VW Fastback that I had torsion bars
at all four wheels.  I re-indexed each of them, dropping at least two full
inches--it was low.  Type III VWs use a similar splined torsion bar,
both front and back, which allows you to adjust your ride height 
relatively

easily.   I think I had to do one of the rears twice because I didn't take
careful enough note of where the splines were to begin with.

btw:  A balanced and counterweighted 1641cc with dual Webers, coupled with
that suspension geometry could really scoot, and take the corners too.  It
was a fun car.

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


The front wheels *are* a simple 'turn of a bolt', as you've heard -
but
adjusting the rear means disassembling the trailing arms and re-indexing
the
torsion bars for each side.  Keeping track of the number of teeth you've
turned while re-installing them can be a chore - cause things are hards 
to

see - which is why I haven't tried to fix mine.  Some of the later 911s
are
easier (mines a '74) and adjustible trailing arms are available for 
~$400.

When racing it might be worth it but for people like me who just want to
change to a lower height it's usually a one time thing and adjustible
isn;t
worth it.  It's been a couple of years & I need to refresh my memory - 
but

there's a way to turn the t-bar one way and the piece it rests in the
opposite way a minute amount of change can be made.  Mines about 3/8" out
(high on the drivers side) and I believe that's a one tooth change.

And of course, once the front and/or rear height is changed an alignment
is
needed.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height


>I was under the impression that the ride height of a 911 was fairly easy
to
> adjust, as in the turn of a bolt or something like that.  IIRC, the 
> weld

> in
> kits for the VW type 1, which allowed you to re-index the torsion
springs
> on
> the front axle beam, used to tout their system as similar to the 
> Porsche

> 911
> (which of course didn't have an axle beam, but that's what they 
> claimed,

> anyway).
>
> On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!
>>
>> Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I
>> lowered
>> my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't
>> sound
>> like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course,
>> when
>> I
>> put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear
>> completely.
>>
>
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
> '87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
> '84 300D (213k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
> ___
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>



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Re: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?

[l02turner]

you asked:<< might be easier to remove the entire engine and

transmission.>>


It will be much easier with it out of the car.  But in addition to the hoist 
you should probably invest in a engine stand - running less than $75 around 
here.  WHen the engine and/or tranny is hanging from the hoist it will not 
be properly supprted and you'l find it hard to keep it properly supported in 
slings/chains/etc and still have access to the things you need.  You'll find 
you must move the slings around to get to things as you remove things like 
the oil pan etc.


Also, the stand will allow you to rotate the engine for much easier access - 
but be careful as it's very heavy and when not secured with a bolt/pin to 
prevent it turning it will rotate before you know it - taking with it 
anything you may on it - like your hands, ratchet, etc.


Doing it out of the car is much easier but you must have the proper 
equipment to do it safely.


When I rebuilt my 240D I didn't have any trouble with the AC - I unbolted it 
and pulled it to one side and wired it in place.  Not a problem.  Don't know 
about the tranny - that requires a *lot* of under car work and I didn;t take 
that route when I pulled the engine alone.


One thing to remember - whether you remove the engine with the tranny or 
seperate them later - make sure the torque converter stays against the 
tranny - the fingers on the TC must be properly engaged into the front pump 
or the pump and TC will be damaged.  The books usually talk at length about 
this - just pay attention.


Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Pull the whole engine?



I'm the nut who is cleaning up the 606 engine in a 124, after its vacuum
pump disintegrated.  I can only find a few hours per week to work on it. 
So

this has become a long project.



I've got the top of the engine cleaned out and reassembled.  Now I need to
remove the oil pan to clean out the ball bearings and debris that settled
below.



Looking at the Service Manual Library on CD, the official procedure is to
raise the engine without removing it, to remove the oil pan.  But that
involves laying under the car to remove the torsion bar, oil cooler and 
many
other things. Then loosening the oil pan and removing the oil pump 
(probably

by feel.) to then screw around and wiggle the pan out from between the
cassis and engine block, while rotating the crank.  Sounds like a major 
PITA

from the description.



I'm wondering if it might be easier to remove the entire engine and
transmission.

I bought a handy-dandy 2 ton engine hoist from Sams Club. (A lot like the
one sold by HF) But I probably should not lay under an engine that is 
being

supported by a hydraulic hoist anyway.



With the engine removed from the car, it seems like things would be safer
and easier to see and work on.  The Service Manual procedure 2400HB for
engine removal does not sound any worse than procedure 7500HA for oil pan
removal.



But I don't know what I don't know.  Has anybody been here before, and can
tell me how difficult it is to remove and re-install the engine?



Thanks,
Ned Kleinhenz

'95 E300D x2

'85 300D

'80 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

   The front wheels *are* a simple 'turn of a bolt', as you've heard - but 
adjusting the rear means disassembling the trailing arms and re-indexing the 
torsion bars for each side.  Keeping track of the number of teeth you've 
turned while re-installing them can be a chore - cause things are hards to 
see - which is why I haven't tried to fix mine.  Some of the later 911s are 
easier (mines a '74) and adjustible trailing arms are available for ~$400. 
When racing it might be worth it but for people like me who just want to 
change to a lower height it's usually a one time thing and adjustible isn;t 
worth it.  It's been a couple of years & I need to refresh my memory - but 
there's a way to turn the t-bar one way and the piece it rests in the 
opposite way a minute amount of change can be made.  Mines about 3/8" out 
(high on the drivers side) and I believe that's a one tooth change.


And of course, once the front and/or rear height is changed an alignment is 
needed.



Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height



I was under the impression that the ride height of a 911 was fairly easy to
adjust, as in the turn of a bolt or something like that.  IIRC, the weld 
in
kits for the VW type 1, which allowed you to re-index the torsion springs 
on
the front axle beam, used to tout their system as similar to the Porsche 
911

(which of course didn't have an axle beam, but that's what they claimed,
anyway).

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!

Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I
lowered
my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't
sound
like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course, 
when

I
put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear
completely.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
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Re: [MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

Thanks to Zeitgeist & Marshall for their words of wisdom!

Now that it appears I'm within tolerance I may want to look into lowering my 
car a little - just to reduce some of that empty space above the tires but 
it's probably more of a project than I want to get involved in.


Yeah, I should probably leave well enough alone.  After all, when I lowered 
my 911, one corner ended up 3/8" higher than the other side - doesn't sound 
like much - but it's noticable when viewed from the rear.  Of course, when I 
put my big a$$ in the drivers seat the difference may disappear completely. 
;-)


Thanks again for the help ya'll!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] vehicle height


Funny you should mention it...I've been adjusting the height of my 124 
this
weekend.  I believe the proper method for checking height is to measure 
from

the fender lip to the wheel centerline.  I cut my springs by 4" front and
rear to drop the chassis down to ~14.5".  You can also order spring pads 
in

various thicknesses (4 sizes in front and 3 in back) to achieve  small
adjustments in height.  My car has #3 pads front and rear, so I'll be
dropping down to #1, which will hopefully allow me to drop the chassis to 
an
even 14".  Apparently these pads will wear and compress over time, which 
may

be the source of your variances in height.  YMMV

On 5/29/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hello !
Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at
each
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the
following
measurements -
LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - 
along

the centerline of the wheel/tire.

Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing
shows
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (214k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
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[MBZ] vehicle height

[l02turner]

Hello !
   Was looking my '91 300D (104k miles) over and noticed the height at each 
fender looked uneven.  Checked with my metal yardstick and got the following 
measurements -

LF - 26.5"
RF - 26.0"
LR - 26.75"
RR - 26.5"

I measured from the driveway to the lower edge of the fender flare - along 
the centerline of the wheel/tire.


Have been looking at the resources on the CD I haveand so far nothing shows 
that dimension - should they be *exactly* the same side-to-side? How much 
difference should there be front to rear - taking into account the 
difference in fender shape?   is there something I should look at 1st?


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[l02turner]

   Wow!  Just checked it out - on sale for $36.99 and includes sockets all 
the way to 50mm (almost 2"!! - that's freaking huge!)


 You're absolutely right about not needing Mechanic's Quality - likely to 
only use these once in a while but having the right size at hand when needed 
makes a huge difference when trying to do some "little" job of maintanence 
that can turn nasty when the proper tool isn't handy.


I don't have a 3/4" breaker bar but a adapter to go from 3/4 to 1/2 wouldn't 
be too expensive.


Thanks for reminding me about HF -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
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http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter



[bought] socket for less than $20 IIRC


An entire 3/4" metric socket set is $40 when on sale at Harbor Freight.
Worth it, IMHO.  Makes short work of fuel senders, tank screens, and
crankshaft nuttery.  No, it's not a world-class tool, but it's not bad
and is plenty good enough for many uses.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair

[l02turner]

I'd vote for replacing it - new ones are less than $70 - sometimes much 
less - depending on where you find them -
I had a similar jack as yours and mine started leaking - but with mine some 
of the other parts were starting to need adjustment also - with mine, a new 
one was much safer also -


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Jack Repair




In a message dated 5/28/2006 6:12:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  an 20-year-old Allied (made in Taiwan) floor jack but it "leaks 
down"
while  jacking, even with the valve closed.  I suspect that hydraulic 
fluid
is leaking past the o-ring seal on the main piston.  Otherwise,  it is a 
nice

heavy-duty 2-ton unit with a pretty high lift capability;  although it is
heavy.

Question:  Should I try to repair this or  just replace it?  If repair, 
what

are likely sources for replacement  seals?



Even if you could find parts for that jack, they would not sell them
directly to you because of liability problems.  You would have to send the 
pump into
them, or buy a rebuilt exchange.  The cost would surely exceed  the very 
nice

jacks available at Costco and Sam's Club, for about  $70.

I had a very nice old name brand jack and spent several hours doing the
parts chase thing.  I ended up scrapping the thing for the 1/2" steel side 
plates

and stuff.

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter

[l02turner]

Howdy Dan -
   When I changed it on my '78 240D I went to Sears & bought the correct 
size socket for less than $20 IIRC - it takes a
1-13/16" in SAE size.  I didn't locate a proper sized metric socket and this 
one worked perfectly.  I just checked the sears website and the socket is 
listed as $25.


   Having the correct tool is the only way to know you won;t do any damage. 
I tried a pipe wrench and because of the location and difficulty I couldn't 
get any leverage to break it loose.  The socket was a piece of cake -


   BTW, since I didn't know how bad my filter would be so I bought a new 
one - Rusty has them for $17.00 for my a '80 300D.  Rusty calls them "Fuel 
Screen" in the Online Catalog.  pn E1010-87062 (same as for my W124 91 300D)


HTHs -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan & Sandy Steadman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: [MBZ] In Tank Fuel Filter



I have a partially clogged in-tank fuel filter in my 1980 300D. I have
drained the tank (yes, I made a mess and it took a long time to drain a
gallon and a half). I need to know the best way to get the filter out. I
don't have a wrench or socket that will fit the filter.

Any tricks or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan Steadman


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz Classic

[l02turner]

You wrote:

Howdy -
   Don't know if you thought of it or even put it in the same catagory - 
but the Porsche magazine "Christophorus" (excellent, BTW) has been published 
without interruption since the mid-50s.  Subscription costs is currently 
$28USD and it can be ordered on their website with payment requested once 
mailings begin to arrive.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
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- Original Message - 
From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz Classic



on 5/27/06 4:29 PM, Christopher McCann at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'm wondering if MBUSA was loosing money on it because they don't know 
how to

mail magazines...

40,000 is alot of subscribers and even though they are scattered around
english speaking countries, there are shipping methods (ISAL - 
International

Surface Air Lift) which makes international mailings reasonable.


They probably tried to contract it out to a bulk mailing house, but it 
isn't

as simple or cheap to do this as you might think, when you get into
international and that run is actually quite small by bulk mailing
standards.

The mag is available on (good) newsstands here, but typically arrives 
quite

late vis. the cover date on the product.

Corporate commitment to magazines of that sort is usually pretty thin, DC 
is
probably at the top of the charts in that respect, with BMW a distant 
second

and everyone else way back.

For example, Volvo has had more mags come and go than I've had hot 
dinners,

as the saying goes. Ford seems have finally caught on that the Big V
heritage is worth pushing, but they did so only after stupid moves such as
cancelling the Volvo race programmes (BTCC, etc.), which had done more for
Volvo's image than a decade of Super Bowl commercials, etc.

Goddamn pencilneck braindead auto industry execs.

Sorry for the mini-rant.

Mac


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz Classic

[l02turner]

Chris,
Maybe you could guess at what's gping on with me/my Mercedes magazine>? 
about a week ago a large envelop postmarked Germany -  arrived with a slick 
MB mag that says 01 2006 (Jan? 1st qtr?) with the only explanation being a 
paper looking like an invoice but entirely in German.


When I bought the 91 300D in Feb 06 I notified MBNA of the ownership change 
& may faxed request for a invoice.  I didn't request a subscription of 
"Mercedesmagazine" although I did receive a coupld years of "Mercedes" back 
in the 80s - and it was animpressive magazine IMHO.


Any idea why they'd send me a copy of this magazine?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
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- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz Classic


Last time I talked to them, they said they were trying to figure out how to 
reimburse people for issue that they are not going to receive - like your 
(and my) situation.


I think whatever department handled it at MBUSA is totally incompetent re: 
magazine distribution. There is no reason that magazine cannot be 
distributed profitably.


Chris (annoyed)

Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The first year of my subscription, I 
got the English version from Germany -

very expensive (like 20 euros for 4 issues).  Those were mailed normally.
Ever since I subscribed via MBUSA, I have not gotten an issue on time, and
when I called to ask for my issue they'd send me one, two, or even three
copies via Priority Mail.

Problem is, I paid for a two-year subscription, and if they stop production
I want a refund or a nice parting gift.

On 5/27/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:


According to an article in the May 18 issue of Der Stuttgarter Zeitung (an
entire section is dedicated to the new MB Museum opening), Mercedes Benz
Classic production figures are 40,000 in English and 90,000 in German.

Nothing was said about the English version being discontinued. MBUSA is
discontinuing it, but I wonder if it is still being produced in Germany 
and

may be available through another channel. I only ever received two copies
(subscribing just as they decided to discontinue it). BOTH issues came
Priority mail! This is NOT how to mail a magazine...

DID ANYBODY ELSE GET THEIRS ALL BY PRIORITY MAIL?

I'm wondering if MBUSA was loosing money on it because they don't know how
to mail magazines...

40,000 is alot of subscribers and even though they are scattered around
english speaking countries, there are shipping methods (ISAL - 
International

Surface Air Lift) which makes international mailings reasonable.

Anyway, just thinking aloud. I really liked the magazine.

I can't see someone ditching a mag with 40,000 subscribers when you are
simplt translating from a mag you are already doing for 90,000 
subscribers.

I think someone screwed something up.

Chris


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."
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Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker

[l02turner]

This was a '91 model so it's possible I guess -  -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
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- Original Message - 
From: "Frederick Moir" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker


Hi, All.
 If a car sold/leased in Mass. is missing info, especially B4 1990, Blame 
the Registry!
 They had everything on paper and fought tool and nail not to computerize, 
so if the data is incorrect or missing, well "There's may a slip 'twixt cup 
and lip" !!

 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Where we have diesels and the best politicians money can buy!




-
Ring'em or ping'em. Make  PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo! 
Messenger with Voice.

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Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker

[l02turner]

Maybe I'll try again in a few months - sometimes people make mistakes when 
looking thru files -


   When I called about my 78 240D a long time ago they said my VIN wasn't 
in the system - and the only explanation was that it might be a gray market 
car.  But I cannot for the life of me understand why someone would import a 
240D that's loaded (everything except leather seats) when they could buy one 
at their local dealer and not worry about service/warranty problems.


I suspect their filing methods may be less than perfect.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker


That is strange becuase they told me that they do not always have stickers, 
but always have invoices...


Chris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well Duh!  I'm missing  a few words!  I'm 
trying to get used to the glide

pad on my laptop - sometimes my wrist brushes against it and I end up
erasing a section of stuff!  Sorry -
\
What it shoud have said is, MB says "there is no window sticker or dealer
invoice in the file".

The carfax tells me it was purchased/leased from a dealer in Mass. so I
don't know why nothings on file.
Oh well -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher McCann"

To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker


Does what mean anything?

They do not always have the sticker, in which case, they have a copy of the
invoice.

Did they tell you they have no info or something?

Chris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As suggested, I sent a note to MBCA asking for
the Invoice or Window Sticker
for my '91 300D.  Does that mean anything or is MBs filing system at fault??

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."
__
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."
__
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Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker

[l02turner]

Well Duh!  I'm missing  a few words!  I'm trying to get used to the glide 
pad on my laptop - sometimes my wrist brushes against it and I end up 
erasing a section of stuff!  Sorry -

\
What it shoud have said is, MB says "there is no window sticker or dealer 
invoice in the file".


The carfax tells me it was purchased/leased from a dealer in Mass. so I 
don't know why nothings on file.

Oh well -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Christopher McCann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker


Does what mean anything?

They do not always have the sticker, in which case, they have a copy of the 
invoice.


Did they tell you they have no info or something?

Chris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As suggested, I sent a note to MBCA asking for 
the Invoice or Window Sticker

for my '91 300D.  Does that mean anything or is MBs filing system at fault??

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

"Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem Kilometerzähler gemessen."
__
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[MBZ] MB Invoice / WIndow Sticker

[l02turner]

As suggested, I sent a note to MBCA asking for the Invoice or Window Sticker 
for my '91 300D.  Does that mean anything or is MBs filing system at fault??


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] W124 AC Fans in Front of Condenser '91 300D 2.5 Turbo

[l02turner]

Thanks for the info, Marshall - with the W124 "Bible" I rec'd from Rusty 
Thurs - --  its helpful descriptions and diagrams showing the locations of 
various switches, relays & sensors will help me locate those things you 
suggest might be causing this problem. ;-)


Thanks again -- 


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 AC Fans in Front of Condenser '91 300D 2.5 Turbo



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Howdy -
Whenever the ACC is set to a AC position and the car is fired up the aux
fans behind the grill start spinning.  At first I thought this might be a
self-test but I found the fans continued to run for much too long for 
that.

What could cause this?


A shorted pressure sensor (S32/1) a defective temp sensor (B-10/8) or a
defective fan relay (either K-9 or K-10). Maybe other things as well,
but those will do it.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] W124 AC Fans in Front of Condenser '91 300D 2.5 Turbo

[l02turner]

Howdy -
Whenever the ACC is set to a AC position and the car is fired up the aux 
fans behind the grill start spinning.  At first I thought this might be a 
self-test but I found the fans continued to run for much too long for that. 
What could cause this?


Is it in fact a problem?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!

[l02turner]

David asked:<
acceptable, as long as the ribbed side isn't cracked>>>


Hi David -
I think you need to look carefully at the underside of the belt - there's a 
place where a pulley reverses the direction of the belt and exposes the 
underside (on my W124 diesel it's next to the power steering reservoir) IMO, 
the underside if the best indication of the condition of the belt.  BTW, the 
belt is inexpensive (less than $20 for W124 300D's) and installing it is 
pretty easy.


If there's any question about the condition of the existing belt it's false 
economy not to go ahead and change it (IMHO)--


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!



Marshall Booth wrote:

Replace the belt if
there are ANY cracks on the ribbed side.


General question about serp. belts -- is checking on the smooth side
acceptable, as long as the ribbed side isn't cracked?  Or should I
replace a belt that shows this kind of wear?


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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!

[l02turner]

Thanks Marshall!  Luckily Rusty was able to determine which part I needed 
with the VIN #.  What a great resource he is!


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



2nd -- where the H do I find the engine #?  I've looked all over but
evidently not the right place.  As I mentioned - it;s a '91, W124 5 cyl 
2.5

Turbo.


The engine number is on the driver's side rear of the engine block, just
below the block head junction, behind the oil filter housing and under
the intake manifold - IMPOSSIBLE for a human to see without
disassembling the car.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!

[l02turner]

John wrote:>>


Thanks John,
I ordered the rest of the parts needed to fix it from Rusty this morning  - 
along with the stuff I ordered last week it looks like around $175 total for 
the spring, damper, lower pivot, upper pivot and damper.


Not sure how much disassembly I'll need to do to get to everything but I've 
removed the shroud & fan before so that'll be easy.  Just not sure what 
damage has been done by the lower tension adjuster getting cockeyed. 
Hopefully the damage will be minor and limited to the tensioner and not 
where it attaches to the engine.


Time to study the manual and plan my attack ;-)

Thanks for the info you provided -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "John Peterson / ImmersionStudio LLC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!



Mine has been doing this since I stored the car for the winter.  I took it
out of storage in March.  It has about 1/4 inch of play.

The 2.5 is a SWEET motor.

John Peterson


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!


John wrote:<
failing?  Watch for wobble >>>'


Hi John!
   Hope you're doing well.  Do you know how long your tensioner has had 
the

play you mention in it?  Since I just bought my 300 in Feb I'm not sure if
mine has been like this for 12 weeks or 12 months.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "John Peterson / ImmersionStudio LLC" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!



That is a good question- I've been wondering about mine too.  I have at
least 1/4 inch play on mine with slight noise at startup for about 10
minutes.  How can we tell when the tensioner pully or spring etc. are
failing?  Watch for wobble in the pully?

Thanks

John Peterson
1991 300D 2.5 79k


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2006 7:43 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Lower Pivot - Need Help!


Help!
I rec'd my Bentley manual and noticed the warning about the tensioner
becoming worn and out of alugnment - checked my '91 300D 2.5 this am and
discovered 1/4" play.  I'm ordering all new stuff from Rusty - but I need
to
know if it's safe to drive like this as I expect the parts won't arrive
until next tuesday. -

2 questions -
1st  - Should I park it 'til I fix it? (my wife would drive it today, Sat
&
Sun to work - 100 mi RT each day -  unless ya'll say it's too dangerous.)

2nd -- where the H do I find the engine #?  I've looked all over but
evidently not the right place.  As I mentioned - it;s a '91, W124 5 cyl
2.5
Turbo.

Thanks guys - I know I can count on ya'll!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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