Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-05 Thread Golden Aldi
Yes, Sol, I will keep that in mind :-)
Here is where I don't mind experimenting. Since my water is first filtered,
then distilled, I'm gonna try leaving the suggested 1/4. With all of the
information and feedback from the proffies on this list, I'm off to a good
start. I might just experiment with the crud on the bottom, insteading of
leaving a qurter of the water, I'll just leave the crud!

Aldi

On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 10:41 PM, sol sol...@sweetwaterhsa.com wrote:

 Golden Aldi wrote:

 Sol, :-)
 I'm sold!

  LOL, just keep in mind that it may take a bit of experimentation to find
 the best amount to leave for seeding vs time reduction in processing.

 sol


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-05 Thread sol

At 10:53 AM 3/5/2010, you wrote:

Yes, Sol, I will keep that in mind :-)
Here is where I don't mind experimenting. Since my water is first 
filtered, then distilled, I'm gonna try leaving the suggested 1/4. 
With all of the information and feedback from the proffies on this 
list, I'm off to a good start. I might just experiment with the crud 
on the bottom, insteading of leaving a qurter of the water, I'll 
just leave the crud!
I always leave the crud, LOL. But when I have poured out everything 
except the crud, and then added pure distilled water, it hasn't 
speeded up the processing any here.

sol


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-04 Thread Golden Aldi
Thanks Sol, and to others, suggesting I try seeding.  My only reservation
would have been, that I have less CS to use or give away, so I'll just use
a larger container, which would probably make the brewing time longer, but
probably, most likey, not all that much longer.



On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 5:23 AM, sol sol...@sweetwaterhsa.com wrote:


 It might depend on how much of the previous batch you leave behind to seed
 the next batch. I believe someone posted a long time ago a formula for this,
 might have been Terry Chamberlin? I think it was that leaving 1/4 of the
 previous batch will reduce brewing time by 2/3 or similar, I can't remember
 it exactly, but since I first read it I have always left approx 1/4 of the
 previous batch. At first it may seem like this wastes CS you could be
 using, but for me it speeds up the brewing time so much it is worth it. It
 may be pertinent that I need to start with distilled water that is very
 pure. So if I didn't seed a batch at all, it will take a very long time
 indeed.
  sol




Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-04 Thread Golden Aldi
Thanks Ode!

I just responded to the other thread, mentioning that I couldn't find the
in the sun stirring method, and it was because I had not gotten to it yet
in my mailbox.

Aldi

On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 1:12 PM, Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.net wrote:



  A black surface soaking up the suns rays will heat that area in the water
 more than all the other areas.
  Warm rises, relatively cooler sinks [Temperature differential ] and the
 water circulates. [Thermal Stirring]

  Stirring does reduce deposits, especially where an un-interrupted ion
 track might intersect the container, but may not eliminate them as the
 majority of crud [but not all of it ] comes from water contamination being
 used up by highly reactive ions forming nonconductive particulates...in
 effect, further purifying the water as that insoluble crud falls out, as
 added ions that don't find a reaction partner make it more conductive with
 soluble ionic *silver*.

 So
 The crud is a good thing...to leave on the bottom...as the top becomes
 more refined by its dropping out.
 The *generator* always does the same very simple thing in a massively
 variable and extremely reactive environment.

  A low frequency alternating current output to the electrodes eliminates DC
 ion tracking thus reducing the need to stir and those direction shifting
 traveling ions have mass and velocity, thus will move the water some,
 molecule by molecule by impact, but mostly only directly between the
 electrodes.

 If the container is mostly filled with electrode, that's generally enough
 stirring.

 ode



Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-04 Thread sol

At 11:04 AM 3/4/2010, you wrote:
Thanks Sol, and to others, suggesting I try seeding.  My only 
reservation would have been, that I have less CS to use or give 
away, so I'll just use a larger container, which would probably make 
the brewing time longer, but probably, most likey, not all that much longer.


Aldi,
  Actually in my experience, the brewing process is speeded up so 
much that I end up with more CS to use. I can do two batches in the 
time it would take for one unseeded batch. So I lose approx 1/4 of 
each batch to seeding, but end up with 1.5 times as much finished CS 
in the same time period.

sol





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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-04 Thread Golden Aldi
Sol, :-)
I'm sold!

On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 7:15 PM, sol sol...@sweetwaterhsa.com wrote:

 At 11:04 AM 3/4/2010, you wrote:

 Thanks Sol, and to others, suggesting I try seeding.  My only reservation
 would have been, that I have less CS to use or give away, so I'll just use
 a larger container, which would probably make the brewing time longer, but
 probably, most likey, not all that much longer.


 Aldi,
  Actually in my experience, the brewing process is speeded up so much that
 I end up with more CS to use. I can do two batches in the time it would take
 for one unseeded batch. So I lose approx 1/4 of each batch to seeding, but
 end up with 1.5 times as much finished CS in the same time period.

 sol





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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-04 Thread sol

Golden Aldi wrote:

Sol, :-)
I'm sold!

LOL, just keep in mind that it may take a bit of experimentation to find 
the best amount to leave for seeding vs time reduction in processing.

sol


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-03 Thread Dan Nave
I had this problem (with a silver-puppy), but it was not a problem
with the generator.
I had to clean the jar well with H2O2 and rinse well, and then
everything went back to normal timing.

Dan

On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 6:47 AM, M. G. Devour mdev...@eskimo.com wrote:
 Aldi writes:
 See, I have never yet made any under 6 hours, thats for sure.  Can't figure
 out why. Like I mentioned before, a few batches ago, I had to cut the
 brewing, cause it was going on 14 hours.

 I suppose if your water happens to be very pure it could slow down the
 early, seeding part of the process considerably. Leaving a little bit
 of the previous batch in the jar would probably even that out
 considerably.

 It also sounds like Pat ought to cut back on the ppm setting to below
 the point at which it generates significant crud. When you get that,
 it just means you've gone too long, and whatever silver you've added in
 the later phase of the run has gone straight to large particles that
 don't enhance things much and waste electrodes.

 Even if the instructions say to run higher, it could be that Pat's
 particular unit needs to be run at a lower setting.

 Be well,

 Mike D.

 On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 10:29 PM, MaryAnn Helland
 marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:

  That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My CS
  is always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars.

   --
  *From:* Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com

  My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing,
  then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to
  indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too
  during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the
  dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on
  the bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.
  The worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the
  electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats
  them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I don't
  make it very often.

  
  From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
  My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts
  itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red
  one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the
  instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off,
  then maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go 
  on.
  *grin*

 [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
 [mdev...@eskimo.com                        ]
 [Speaking only for myself...               ]


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-02 Thread Ode Coyote



  A black surface soaking up the suns rays will heat that area in the 
water more than all the other areas.
 Warm rises, relatively cooler sinks [Temperature differential ] and the 
water circulates. [Thermal Stirring]


 Stirring does reduce deposits, especially where an un-interrupted ion 
track might intersect the container, but may not eliminate them as the 
majority of crud [but not all of it ] comes from water contamination being 
used up by highly reactive ions forming nonconductive particulates...in 
effect, further purifying the water as that insoluble crud falls out, as 
added ions that don't find a reaction partner make it more conductive with 
soluble ionic *silver*.


So
The crud is a good thing...to leave on the bottom...as the top becomes 
more refined by its dropping out.
The *generator* always does the same very simple thing in a massively 
variable and extremely reactive environment.


 A low frequency alternating current output to the electrodes eliminates 
DC ion tracking thus reducing the need to stir and those direction shifting 
traveling ions have mass and velocity, thus will move the water some, 
molecule by molecule by impact, but mostly only directly between the 
electrodes.


If the container is mostly filled with electrode, that's generally enough 
stirring.


ode


At 06:11 PM 3/1/2010 +0100, you wrote:
Ode, could you please elaborate on the strip of black tape or paint? Would 
that keep from crud from accumulating on the bottom?


Aldi

On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 1:05 PM, Ode Coyote 
mailto:odecoy...@windstream.netodecoy...@windstream.net wrote:



 So long as you use pure silver and pure water, there are  no 
photo-reactive compounds made and you can run batches in direct 
sunlight...and... use a strip of black tape or some paint

 to make the sun stir it.

Ode



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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread Golden Aldi
That's what I went and did, took another lid to fit my brewing jar, cause I
had the same problem with trying to get the silver strips to be evenly
placed. That was a real pain, and that's what took up most of prep time. I
cut two slits into the lid so I can just have the silver strips in the exact
spot/spacing without having to fidge with it.

I have been noticing plenty of crud using a setting above 6. I'm frankly not
all that crazy about this generator, and will see about getting a silver
puppy over here in GErmany for a reasonable price. Everyone is happy with
theirs, although before I bought this one, I heard only good things about it
:-(

Anyone traveling to Germany anytime soon? Maybe they could bring me my new
silver puppy! *only kidding*

Aldi

On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 7:15 AM, Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I sometimes set the Colloid Master on six, but will try leaving it lower.
  The company recommended 5.5.  I use a regular one quart canning jar.  I
 didn't know you could use wires or coins with it, but that makes sense.  I
 like that idea of cutting slots into a lid for the electrodes.  That would
 keep them in place better.

  I agree that it couldn't be much easier, just takes a minute to start it
 up and then I get back to it sometime the next day and it's shut itself off.

 Pat





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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread Golden Aldi
Ode, could you please elaborate on the strip of black tape or paint? Would
that keep from crud from accumulating on the bottom?

Aldi

On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 1:05 PM, Ode Coyote odecoy...@windstream.netwrote:



  So long as you use pure silver and pure water, there are  no
 photo-reactive compounds made and you can run batches in direct
 sunlight...and... use a strip of black tape or some paint
  to make the sun stir it.

 Ode



Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread Golden Aldi
See, I have never yet made any under 6 hours, thats for sure.  Can't figure
out why. Like I mentioned before, a few batches ago, I had to cut the
brewing, cause it was going on 14 hours.

Aldi

On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 10:29 PM, MaryAnn Helland
marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My CS
 is always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars.  I
 don't worry a bit about the electrodes being straight and parrallel -- more
 that they're not touching.  Do you use a quart Mason jar?  You only have to
 hook the electrodes over the lip of the jar.  And I use a pair of electrodes
 about a year too -- but I make CS several to many times a week.  That crud
 on the bottom of your jar is the remains of the electrodes that are being
 eaten up.  I brew mine in the kitchen -- but I drape a kitchen towel over
 the jar, as much to keep the electrodes in place on opposite sides of
 the brewing jar as to keep the water clean.  I stopped worrying about light
 a long time ago.
 MA



  --
 *From:* Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com

 *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
 *Sent:* Fri, February 26, 2010 2:50:57 PM

 *Subject:* Re: CSColloid Master??


 My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing,
 then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to
 indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too
 during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the
 dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on
 the bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.
 The worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the
 electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats
 them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I don't
 make it very often.

 My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in
 the light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the
 Silver Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?

 Pat



 
 From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:49:34 PM
 Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

 My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts
 itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red
 one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the
 instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off,
 then maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on.
 *grin*

 Aldi


 O





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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread M. G. Devour
Aldi writes:
 See, I have never yet made any under 6 hours, thats for sure.  Can't figure
 out why. Like I mentioned before, a few batches ago, I had to cut the
 brewing, cause it was going on 14 hours.

I suppose if your water happens to be very pure it could slow down the 
early, seeding part of the process considerably. Leaving a little bit 
of the previous batch in the jar would probably even that out 
considerably.

It also sounds like Pat ought to cut back on the ppm setting to below 
the point at which it generates significant crud. When you get that, 
it just means you've gone too long, and whatever silver you've added in 
the later phase of the run has gone straight to large particles that 
don't enhance things much and waste electrodes.

Even if the instructions say to run higher, it could be that Pat's 
particular unit needs to be run at a lower setting.

Be well,

Mike D.

 On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 10:29 PM, MaryAnn Helland
 marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:
 
  That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My CS
  is always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars. 

   --
  *From:* Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com

  My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing,
  then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to
  indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too
  during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the
  dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on
  the bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.
  The worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the
  electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats
  them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I don't
  make it very often.

  
  From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
  My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts
  itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red
  one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the
  instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off,
  then maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on.
  *grin*

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread Golden Aldi
Thanks Mike,

It could be that the water is super pure, as I first filter, then distill
the water. After reading and hearing of all the stuff that can be found in
water, I'm not taking any more risks of taking something in I don't want in
my organism. :-)
I'll leave a bit of old brew  in the jar for the next batch. How much
would make the difference, and how long should it take? 3-4 hours? instead
of the 6+?

I remember reading a few posts about seeding, but it seems that it didn't
make a difference for some, so I wonder what it all depends on. I would feel
more sure of myself if I could test the ppm of the water in between, as to
see if I could cut off the electricity, and so, also see how accurate (or
not), the little green light is.

Aldi

On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 1:47 PM, M. G. Devour mdev...@eskimo.com wrote:

 Aldi writes:
  See, I have never yet made any under 6 hours, thats for sure.  Can't
 figure
  out why. Like I mentioned before, a few batches ago, I had to cut the
  brewing, cause it was going on 14 hours.

 I suppose if your water happens to be very pure it could slow down the
 early, seeding part of the process considerably. Leaving a little bit
 of the previous batch in the jar would probably even that out
 considerably.

 It also sounds like Pat ought to cut back on the ppm setting to below
 the point at which it generates significant crud. When you get that,
 it just means you've gone too long, and whatever silver you've added in
 the later phase of the run has gone straight to large particles that
 don't enhance things much and waste electrodes.

 Even if the instructions say to run higher, it could be that Pat's
 particular unit needs to be run at a lower setting.

 Be well,

 Mike D.

  On Fri, Feb 26, 2010 at 10:29 PM, MaryAnn Helland
  marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:
 
   That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My
 CS
   is always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars.

--
   *From:* Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com

   My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while
 brewing,
   then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to
   indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off,
 too
   during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in
 the
   dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud
 on
   the bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above
 5.5.
   The worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get
 the
   electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It
 eats
   them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I
 don't
   make it very often.

   
   From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
   My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it
 shuts
   itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the
 red
   one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to
 the
   instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go
 off,
   then maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not
 go on.
   *grin*

 [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
 [mdev...@eskimo.com]
 [Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread M. G. Devour
Aldi,

 It could be that the water is super pure, as I first filter, then distill
 the water. 

You may be one of the lucky ones who doesn't have to work too hard to 
get good distilled water. waves to sol!

 I'll leave a bit of old brew  in the jar for the next batch. How
 much would make the difference, and how long should it take? 3-4 hours?
 instead of the 6+? 

You'll have to tell us! If your water was infinitely pure, it might 
never accept the first silver ion and take forever to start, unseeded. 
Where it is on the scale of perfection is not for us to say. wink!

I would suggest just start with some, maybe as much as a quarter or 
fifth of the old batch. If it doesn't make much difference, try more 
until it does.

If it shortens the cycle like you want, then reduce the amount bit by 
bit until the average run-time starts to grow unacceptably long again. 
Stop somewhere about there, whenever run-time and batch-size seem to be 
a reasonable tradeoff. 

 I would feel more sure of myself if I could test the ppm of the water
 in between, as to see if I could cut off the electricity, and so, also
 see how accurate (or not), the little green light is. 

Well, perfection gets expensive. The big question is, does your CS do 
its job?

Be well,

Mike D.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread Golden Aldi
Mike, I'm glad you told me how much to seed with, cause I never would have
thought to take up to a quarter of a quart. I would have used much less.

What I have done, after even an hour of brewing, is shine the laser pointer,
and you can see the particles, so I know the water is taking the silver
quite nicely, and plentiful, I might add.

I'm very happy with my CS, as I feel it does what it should do. I only drink
a shot or two a few times a week, and it seems to have loosened plaque on my
teeth! I don't usually have problems with getting the flu prior to my CS
intake. I have shared it with friends and neighbors, and they are totally
surprised at how its been working for them! They've been able to fight off
the flu and go to work the next day, so the end product seems to do its job.

Aldi

On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 4:47 PM, M. G. Devour mdev...@eskimo.com wrote:



 You'll have to tell us! If your water was infinitely pure, it might
 never accept the first silver ion and take forever to start, unseeded.
 Where it is on the scale of perfection is not for us to
 I would suggest just start with some, maybe as much as a quarter or
 fifth of the old batch. If it doesn't make much difference, try more
 until it does.

 Well, perfection gets expensive. The big question is, does your CS do
 its job?

 Be well,

 Mike D.

 [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
 [mdev...@eskimo.com]
 [Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread MaryAnn Helland
And you're unhappy with your Colloid Master 
because..  LOL
MA





From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com

What I have done, after even an hour of brewing, is shine the laser pointer, 
and you can see the particles, so I know the water is taking the silver quite 
nicely, and plentiful, I might add.

I'm very happy with my CS, as I feel it does what it should do. I only drink a 
shot or two a few times a week, and it seems to have loosened plaque on my 
teeth! I don't usually have problems with getting the flu prior to my CS 
intake. I have shared it with friends and neighbors, and they are totally 
surprised at how its been working for them! They've been able to fight off the 
flu and go to work the next day, so the end product seems to do its job.




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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-03-01 Thread sol

At 01:09 PM 3/1/2010, you wrote:

I'll leave a bit of old brew  in the jar for the next batch. How 
much would make the difference, and how long should it take? 3-4 
hours? instead of the 6+?


I remember reading a few posts about seeding, but it seems that it 
didn't make a difference for some, so I wonder what it all depends on.


It might depend on how much of the previous batch you leave behind to 
seed the next batch. I believe someone posted a long time ago a 
formula for this, might have been Terry Chamberlin? I think it was 
that leaving 1/4 of the previous batch will reduce brewing time by 
2/3 or similar, I can't remember it exactly, but since I first read 
it I have always left approx 1/4 of the previous batch. At first it 
may seem like this wastes CS you could be using, but for me it 
speeds up the brewing time so much it is worth it. It may be 
pertinent that I need to start with distilled water that is very 
pure. So if I didn't seed a batch at all, it will take a very long 
time indeed.

sol


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-28 Thread Dorothy Fitzpatrick
Mine does that automatically i.e it turns off when it gets to approximately 
16ppm which then drops to ten after a couple of days of standing.  If you want 
higher you switch from auto to manual and then leave it run until it reaches 
whatever you want.  This is what *I* call easy! lol  dee

On 28 Feb 2010, at 04:09, MaryAnn Helland wrote:

 Hi Dee -- the Silver Puppy has a superb reputation, and it's no surprise that 
 you're happy with it.  But I wanted to clarify your misconception -- the 
 Colloid Master is not complicated.  My routine for making a jar of CS is to 
 attach the alligator clips to the silver bars, plug the unit in and press the 
 *start* button.  Couldn't be simpler.  And like you, no crud.  I suspect that 
 the people having this problem simply have their ppm-level set too high.
 All that silver is gonna go someplace if the unit is brewing for three or 
 four times longer than needed.
 MA
 


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-28 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Right -- the Colloid Master does it automatically too.  But you pre-determine 
the ppm-level you want via a dial that goes from 1 (very,very low) to 10 (very, 
very high).  I always keep my unit dialed to *3* and it consistently produces 
10-12 ppms, which is exactly what I want.

I have no vested interest in which CS generator anyone chooses to use -- but I 
didn't want to leave anyone with the impression that the Colloid Master is a 
difficult unit to operate.  It isn't.  (smile)
MA





From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick d...@deetroy.org
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 6:16:37 AM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

Mine does that automatically i.e it turns off when it gets to approximately 
16ppm which then drops to ten after a couple of days of standing.  If you want 
higher you switch from auto to manual and then leave it run until it reaches 
whatever you want.  This is what *I* call easy! lol  dee 


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-28 Thread Ode Coyote



  So long as you use pure silver and pure water, there are  no 
photo-reactive compounds made and you can run batches in direct 
sunlight...and... use a strip of black tape or some paint

 to make the sun stir it.

Ode

At 04:18 PM 2/27/2010 +, you wrote:
I have a Silver Puppy and I *always* brew in the light and I always get 
clear CS!  The Colloid Master sounds a bit complicated for me -  I don't 
get any crud (or at least, not enough to mention.)  dee


On 26 Feb 2010, at 20:50, Pat wrote:


 My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while 
brewing, then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays 
on to indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and 
off, too during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep 
it in the dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit 
of crud on the bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go 
above 5.5.  The worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes 
to get the electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips 
on.  It eats them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years 
and I don't make it very often.


 My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew 
in the light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the 
Silver Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?


 Pat





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Re: CSColloid Master-- Advice

2010-02-27 Thread Tel Tofflemire
Hey you guys with the Colloid Master having trouble need to call Pearl or 
Steve, At http://www.wishgranted.com 

 I never did make a Quart at a time, I started with a gallon glass large mouth 
jar,
(4 quarts)  similar to an Ice tea jar. Cut Slots in the lid to hang silver 
rods,strips or coins,  a hole to put an air mixer hose. In the 12 years I only 
have bought two bubblers,(with air filters and control valve on the hose ) they 
both still work well. I have had my Colloid Master for over 12 years, and never 
one problem with it, it takes over night to make a gallon with silver strips,or 
2  one ounce Canadian $5.00 silver maple leaf coins,  that are now sold for 
aprox $24.00 each. PS Make sure your jar is clean, Wipe it out with a coffee 
filter, {no lint} cheaper than paper towels too. Also make sure your power 
switch is on normal (up) not the Fast one (down) Call the mgf at web site above 
They will walk you through it.
If you can't make perfect Colloidal Silver with a colloid master your doing 
something wrong? Or there is something wrong with the unit, They would replace 
it if there is.
 Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.
http://www.quailwoodherbal.com








From: MaryAnn Helland marmar...@bellsouth.net
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:29:23 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??


That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My CS is 
always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars.  I don't 
worry a bit about the electrodes being straight and parrallel -- more that 
they're not touching.  Do you use a quart Mason jar?  You only have to hook the 
electrodes over the lip of the jar.  And I use a pair of electrodes about a 
year too -- but I make CS several to many times a week.  That crud on the 
bottom of your jar is the remains of the electrodes that are being eaten up.  I 
brew mine in the kitchen -- but I drape a kitchen towel over the jar, as much 
to keep the electrodes in place on opposite sides of the brewing jar as to keep 
the water clean.  I stopped worrying about light a long time ago.
MA

 




 From: Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:50:57 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??


My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing, then 
turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to indicate it 
has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too during brewing.) 
 Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the dining room, so don't 
look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on the bottom of my jars.  The 
CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.  The worst thing about the machine 
is that it's hard sometimes to get the electrodes straight and parallel when 
I'm putting the clips on.  It eats them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third 
set in four years and I don't make it very often.

My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in the 
light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the Silver 
Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?

Pat




From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:49:34 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts 
itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red 
one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the 
instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off, then 
maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on. *grin*

Aldi


O


  


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-27 Thread Dorothy Fitzpatrick
I have a Silver Puppy and I *always* brew in the light and I always get clear 
CS!  The Colloid Master sounds a bit complicated for me -  I don't get any crud 
(or at least, not enough to mention.)  dee
 
On 26 Feb 2010, at 20:50, Pat wrote:

 
 My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing, 
 then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to 
 indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too 
 during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the 
 dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on the 
 bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.  The 
 worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the 
 electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats them 
 up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I don't make it 
 very often.
 
 My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in 
 the light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the Silver 
 Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?
 
 Pat
 
 
 


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-27 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Hi Dee -- the Silver Puppy has a superb reputation, and it's no surprise that 
you're happy with it.  But I wanted to clarify your misconception -- the 
Colloid Master is not complicated.  My routine for making a jar of CS is to 
attach the alligator clips to the silver bars, plug the unit in and press the 
*start* button.  Couldn't be simpler.  And like you, no crud.  I suspect that 
the people having this problem simply have their ppm-level set too high.
All that silver is gonna go someplace if the unit is brewing for three or four 
times longer than needed.
MA





From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick d...@deetroy.org
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sat, February 27, 2010 10:18:26 AM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

I have a Silver Puppy and I *always* brew in the light and I always get clear 
CS!  The Colloid Master sounds a bit complicated for me -  I don't get any crud 
(or at least, not enough to mention.)  dee

On 26 Feb 2010, at 20:50, Pat wrote:

 
 My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing, 
 then turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to 
 indicate it has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too 
 during brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the 
 dining room, so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on the 
 bottom of my jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.  The 
 worst thing about the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the 
 electrodes straight and parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats them 
 up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third set in four years and I don't make it 
 very often.
 
 My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in 
 the light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the Silver 
 Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?
 
 Pat
 
 
 


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-27 Thread Pat

I sometimes set the Colloid Master on six, but will try leaving it lower.  The 
company recommended 5.5.  I use a regular one quart canning jar.  I didn't know 
you could use wires or coins with it, but that makes sense.  I like that idea 
of cutting slots into a lid for the electrodes.  That would keep them in place 
better. 

 I agree that it couldn't be much easier, just takes a minute to start it up 
and then I get back to it sometime the next day and it's shut itself off.

Pat


  


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-26 Thread Golden Aldi
My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts
itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red
one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the
instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off,
then maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on.
*grin*

Aldi

O


Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-26 Thread Pat

My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing, then 
turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to indicate it 
has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too during brewing.) 
 Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the dining room, so don't 
look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on the bottom of my jars.  The 
CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.  The worst thing about the machine 
is that it's hard sometimes to get the electrodes straight and parallel when 
I'm putting the clips on.  It eats them up, too, sometimes.  I'm on the third 
set in four years and I don't make it very often.

My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in the 
light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the Silver 
Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?

Pat




From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:49:34 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts 
itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red 
one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the 
instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off, then 
maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on. *grin*

Aldi


O


  


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-26 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Aldi -- try brewing a batch at 3 and see what happens.  Do you have a Hanna 
tester to determine your ppm level?  I get around 12 ppms usually, at a #3 
setting.  Are you using a quart Mason jar?  Which puts the electrodes about 2 
apart?
MA





From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 1:49:34 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts 
itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red 
one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the 
instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off, then 
maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on. *grin*

Aldi


O

Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-26 Thread MaryAnn Helland
That's really odd, Pat.  Mine rarely takes more than 5 or 6 hours.  My CS is 
always clear, and I never have any crud on the bottom of my jars.  I don't 
worry a bit about the electrodes being straight and parrallel -- more that 
they're not touching.  Do you use a quart Mason jar?  You only have to hook the 
electrodes over the lip of the jar.  And I use a pair of electrodes about a 
year too -- but I make CS several to many times a week.  That crud on the 
bottom of your jar is the remains of the electrodes that are being eaten up.  I 
brew mine in the kitchen -- but I drape a kitchen towel over the jar, as much 
to keep the electrodes in place on opposite sides of the brewing jar as to keep 
the water clean.  I stopped worrying about light a long time ago.
MA

 




From: Pat pattycake29...@yahoo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:50:57 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??


My Colloid Master AC has a green light that goes on and off while brewing, then 
turns off totally when it's finished.  The red light stays on to indicate it 
has power plugged in (although I think it goes on and off, too during 
brewing.)  Sometimes it takes 12 hours or more.  I keep it in the dining room, 
so don't look at it often.  It leaves quite a bit of crud on the bottom of my 
jars.  The CS is clear as long as I don't go above 5.5.  The worst thing about 
the machine is that it's hard sometimes to get the electrodes straight and 
parallel when I'm putting the clips on.  It eats them up, too, sometimes.  I'm 
on the third set in four years and I don't make it very often.

My daughter loves her Silver Puppy.  My Colloid Master said to not brew in the 
light, though, so I was wondering about the warming light with the Silver 
Puppy.  Does light during brewing make a difference?

Pat




From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Fri, February 26, 2010 2:49:34 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

My setting is at about 5.5 or 6 to get a 10 ppm. I can't tell if it shuts 
itself off or not, but I'm hoping it does, and its the other light, the red 
one, that doesn't go on when it stops, which it should, according to the 
instructions that came with the generator. If the generator does go off, then 
maybe completely, which would explain why the red light does not go on. *grin*

Aldi


O


      


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-25 Thread Golden Aldi
Wow, had no idea that there was one with a yellow light! It would be nice to
see it switching polarity, to keep an eye on it while it brews. As far as
the other switch for fast or standard brewing, that sounds like a very nice
switch to have, although I'm not sure how it could speed things up, except
for giving it more power.

I did call the seller, but since I live in Germany, there was not much they
could do for me. I was fortunate to have it sent to a friend in the military
here, but they have left, and sending it through the german postal system
would be too costly. If I lived in the States, it probably wouldn't be an
issue to send it.

I just feel like I got a raw deal, but I know it was not intentional. My
loss, although it still frustrates me.  I'm just hoping that I'm actually
producing some good CS, that's what is important, right? :-)   And if I
understood correctly, when the green light goes off on yours, then it stops
brewing? Even though its getting electricity? Do you think the generator
turns itself off?

Thanks for your input.
Aldi



On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 3:26 AM, MaryAnn Helland marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Hi Aldi.  I think you might have the same unit I do, but mine is pretty old
 and is only called the Colloid Master AC.  On mine, the green light is what
 goes on when the unit is making CS.  When it has reached the ppm-level
 desired, then the green light goes out.  But the yellow *testing* light
 (underneath the start button) remains lit, which reminds you that the unit
 is still plugged in.  And I believe that light blinks when the unit switches
 polarity.  That yellow light goes out when you unplug the unit before
 removing the clips from the silver bars.  My unit has no red light, but it
 does have the switch that allows you to choose between standard brewing time
 and fast.  Mine is always set on standard.  Does any of this help you?
 MA

  --
 *From:* Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com

 *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
 *Sent:* Wed, February 24, 2010 1:21:03 PM
 *Subject:* Re: CSColloid Master??

 Hi Dave,

 Thanks for responding! I was beginning to think my mails weren't getting
 through at all, but nice to see that this one got through.

 I don't have the 777 model, but the Universal one. There is only a switch
 to turn the generator on, and the processing button to start the process.
 Then there is the green light, which goes on as soon as you turn it on.
 This is the time you can test the water, but you already know that :-)
 But I don't recall ever seeing the red light go on.

 Aldi

 On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:37 PM, Dave Darrin davedar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Aldi
 On the front panel of the 777 there is a switch that is labeled either
 standard or fast, the setting you need to use is the standard  setting, the
 red and green lights alternate every minute and the red comes on bright when
 it shuts off.
 On the fast setting it is running manually and will brew until you shut it
 off hence the colors you got.
 I've never been able to get anything but clear up to 20 ppm (setting #
 7)with mine set on standard.
 Dave






Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-25 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Yes -- absolutely.  That's what it's designed to do.  You set the dial for the 
ppm-level that you want, then plug it in.  When the ppm-level is reached, the 
generator turns itself off (even though it is still plugged in to 
electricity).  Does yours not do that?  What number do you have the dial set 
for?
MA





From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com

 And if I understood correctly, when the green light goes off on yours, then it 
stops brewing? Even though its getting electricity? Do you think the generator 
turns itself off?






On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 3:26 AM, MaryAnn Helland marmar...@bellsouth.net 
wrote:

Hi Aldi.  I think you might have the same unit I do, but mine is pretty old and 
is only called the Colloid Master AC.  On mine, the green light is what goes on 
when the unit is making CS.  When it has reached the ppm-level desired, then 
the green light goes out.  But the yellow *testing* light (underneath the start 
button) remains lit, which reminds you that the unit is still plugged in.  And 
I believe that light blinks when the unit switches polarity.  That yellow light 
goes out when you unplug the unit before removing the clips from the silver 
bars.  My unit has no red light, but it does have the switch that allows you to 
choose between standard brewing time and fast.  Mine is always set on 
standard.  Does any of this help you?
MA







 


Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-24 Thread Golden Aldi
Hi Dave,

Thanks for responding! I was beginning to think my mails weren't getting
through at all, but nice to see that this one got through.

I don't have the 777 model, but the Universal one. There is only a switch to
turn the generator on, and the processing button to start the process. Then
there is the green light, which goes on as soon as you turn it on.  This is
the time you can test the water, but you already know that :-)
But I don't recall ever seeing the red light go on.

Aldi

On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:37 PM, Dave Darrin davedar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Aldi
 On the front panel of the 777 there is a switch that is labeled either
 standard or fast, the setting you need to use is the standard  setting, the
 red and green lights alternate every minute and the red comes on bright when
 it shuts off.
 On the fast setting it is running manually and will brew until you shut it
 off hence the colors you got.
 I've never been able to get anything but clear up to 20 ppm (setting #
 7)with mine set on standard.
 Dave





Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-24 Thread Dave Darrin
Aldi
 You might try contacting them as something is amiss with what you describe.
They are very good to answer any questions and will replace your unit with
no proof of malfunction.
I sent mine in for repair because when I first tried it (after owning it for
over a year) it didn't work.
They sent me a new one with a car charger and two more silver strips with an
apology for the inconvenience to me.
They put a time for warrenty but they say they don't adhere strictly to it.
Dave




On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 11:21 AM, Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Dave,

 Thanks for responding! I was beginning to think my mails weren't getting
 through at all, but nice to see that this one got through.

 I don't have the 777 model, but the Universal one. There is only a switch
 to turn the generator on, and the processing button to start the process.
 Then there is the green light, which goes on as soon as you turn it on.
 This is the time you can test the water, but you already know that :-)
 But I don't recall ever seeing the red light go on.

 Aldi

 On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:37 PM, Dave Darrin davedar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Aldi
 On the front panel of the 777 there is a switch that is labeled either
 standard or fast, the setting you need to use is the standard  setting, the
 red and green lights alternate every minute and the red comes on bright when
 it shuts off.
 On the fast setting it is running manually and will brew until you shut it
 off hence the colors you got.
 I've never been able to get anything but clear up to 20 ppm (setting #
 7)with mine set on standard.
 Dave






Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-24 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Hi Aldi.  I think you might have the same unit I do, but mine is pretty old and 
is only called the Colloid Master AC.  On mine, the green light is what goes on 
when the unit is making CS.  When it has reached the ppm-level desired, then 
the green light goes out.  But the yellow *testing* light (underneath the start 
button) remains lit, which reminds you that the unit is still plugged in.  And 
I believe that light blinks when the unit switches polarity.  That yellow light 
goes out when you unplug the unit before removing the clips from the silver 
bars.  My unit has no red light, but it does have the switch that allows you to 
choose between standard brewing time and fast.  Mine is always set on 
standard.  Does any of this help you?
MA





From: Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Wed, February 24, 2010 1:21:03 PM
Subject: Re: CSColloid Master??

Hi Dave,

Thanks for responding! I was beginning to think my mails weren't getting 
through at all, but nice to see that this one got through.

I don't have the 777 model, but the Universal one. There is only a switch to 
turn the generator on, and the processing button to start the process. Then 
there is the green light, which goes on as soon as you turn it on.  This is the 
time you can test the water, but you already know that :-)
But I don't recall ever seeing the red light go on.

Aldi


On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:37 PM, Dave Darrin davedar...@gmail.com wrote:

Aldi
On the front panel of the 777 there is a switch that is labeled either 
standard or fast, the setting you need to use is the standard  setting, the 
red and green lights alternate every minute and the red comes on bright when 
it shuts off. 
On the fast setting it is running manually and will brew until you shut it off 
hence the colors you got.
I've never been able to get anything but clear up to 20 ppm (setting # 7)with 
mine set on standard.
Dave





Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-22 Thread Ode Coyote



  Despite not addressing a few things like repeatable electrode 
mounting,  edge/corner ion discharge concentration and an uncalibrated PPM 
dial, the 777 is generally rated among the top 3 for both function and value.
My [ biased ] preference for something comparable, but cheaper and does 
address those things as well as being more power supply versatile is the 
PocketPuppy.
 For higher production rates [and more expensive] based on the same 
operational principles, the SG7 Pro.


All 3 work the same way using polarity shifting and make good CS/EIS, with 
a few differences in those Devilish Details...that don't make a huge 
amount of difference.


Ode


At 06:11 PM 2/21/2010 -0600, you wrote:

The Colloid Master
Model 777™ AC


A friend has offered to purchase this for me.   I have a homemade kit, using
3 9 volt batteries.  I have no way to measure the levels, other than I have a
red light thingie that will show the tyndall effect.  I cook till I have 
a light
tyndall - usually about an hour for a quart of cs.   It is effective, has 
worked,

so I haven't tried to do anything fancier.   The above is on sale for 139.  It
has a bunch of bells and whistles, none of which I really understand why they
would or wouldn't be good features.   It does take 8 hours or so to make a 
liter,
and that is using a fw ounces of the last batch to seed the distilled 
water.  Is

this a good generator?   Any comments about why so long?  Is it making the
good (meaning both effective and safe) stuff?   Thanks for any input.   Sara

 http://www.wishgranted.com/Colloidal_Silver_Maker_777_AC.html


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-22 Thread Sara Mandal-Joy

Thanks Mary Ann...   Sara
Hi Sara.  It's a great generator.  I've had mine for almost ten 
years.  During that time, it has made no less than three batches a 
week, and at times I've made as many as fourteen batches a week (2 per 
day).  It is a quality unit, worry-free.  You'll enjoy the bells and 
whistles, once you know what they are and how to put them to use.  
You may find that it doesn't take as long to make a batch, as they 
say.  I never seed my batches, but I'm looking for a low-ppm (5-10) 
and it can take as few as three hours to make a quart.  And yes -- it 
makes the good stuff!!  :-)

MA


*From:* Sara Mandal-Joy smjl...@wavewls.com
*To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
*Sent:* Sun, February 21, 2010 6:11:58 PM
*Subject:* CSColloid Master??

 The Colloid Master
 Model 777™ AC

A friend has offered to purchase this for me.  I have a homemade kit, 
using
3 9 volt batteries.  I have no way to measure the levels, other than I 
have a
red light thingie that will show the tyndall effect.  I cook till I 
have a light
tyndall - usually about an hour for a quart of cs.  It is effective, 
has worked,
so I haven't tried to do anything fancier.  The above is on sale for 
139.  It
has a bunch of bells and whistles, none of which I really understand 
why they
would or wouldn't be good features.  It does take 8 hours or so to 
make a liter,
and that is using a fw ounces of the last batch to seed the 
distilled water.  Is

this a good generator?  Any comments about why so long?  Is it making the
good (meaning both effective and safe) stuff?  Thanks for any 
input.  Sara


http://www.wishgranted.com/Colloidal_Silver_Maker_777_AC.html


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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-22 Thread Golden Aldi
Hi Maryann,

I bought one of these generatory last June.  Since I'm llving over here in
Germany, I had to get the Universal one cause of the european voltage which
is about $40 bucks more. It was a disappointment to see that the extra $40
bucks was for something I could get at Radio Shack back in the States for a
few bucks.
Then I can't tell you if the red light that is on there ever went on. Its
supposed to turn off and let you kow it was done. With mine, I have to
keepp watching it til the green light goes off, cause it will keep on
brewing.

I can't say that it only takes 3 hours to make a 10ppm mix, I've had a good
6 plus hours, but maybe we could blame that on sea level, atmospheric
pressure, and electromagnetic fields.

I attempted a 25 ppm mix, but that one turned to a violet tint for some
reason. I watered the plants with that one.  The second batch is still
practically as clear as water, but that might be cause I watched it more
closely, and turned if off after about 14 hours.

Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy to have this thing, cause I figure if it
should ever fail on me totally, at least I'll have the parts and set up that
maybe I can fix it for real, and make it whole, but as is, I'm pretty
disappointed.

I also made a lid with slits for the silver electrodes for my brewing jar,
its a real pain to try to get the strips to hang somewhat aligned to each
other with the right distance between them. Now its so much easier, and
there's even a bit more extra silver dispensed into the water.

I'm just passing this along as my own personal review of this particular
generator. I am in the market for possibly a second generator, but the one I
want would be too costly to send over here, so I'll just sit tight, and wait
for something to come along.

Aldi



On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 4:01 AM, MaryAnn Helland marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Hi Sara.  It's a great generator.  I've had mine for almost ten years.
 During that time, it has made no less than three batches a week, and at
 times I've made as many as fourteen batches a week (2 per day).  It is a
 quality unit, worry-free.  You'll enjoy the bells and whistles, once you
 know what they are and how to put them to use.  You may find that it doesn't
 take as long to make a batch, as they say.  I never seed my batches, but I'm
 looking for a low-ppm (5-10) and it can take as few as three hours to make a
 quart.  And yes -- it makes the good stuff!!  :-)
 MA



Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-22 Thread Sara Mandal-Joy

Interesting. Thanks for the info. I'll look into that. Sara



Despite not addressing a few things like repeatable electrode 
mounting, edge/corner ion discharge concentration and an uncalibrated 
PPM dial, the 777 is generally rated among the top 3 for both function 
and value.
My [ biased ] preference for something comparable, but cheaper and 
does address those things as well as being more power supply versatile 
is the PocketPuppy.
For higher production rates [and more expensive] based on the same 
operational principles, the SG7 Pro.


All 3 work the same way using polarity shifting and make good CS/EIS, 
with a few differences in those Devilish Details...that don't make a 
huge amount of difference.


Ode


At 06:11 PM 2/21/2010 -0600, you wrote:

The Colloid Master
Model 777™ AC


A friend has offered to purchase this for me. I have a homemade kit, 
using
3 9 volt batteries. I have no way to measure the levels, other than I 
have a
red light thingie that will show the tyndall effect. I cook till I 
have a light
tyndall - usually about an hour for a quart of cs. It is effective, 
has worked,
so I haven't tried to do anything fancier. The above is on sale for 
139. It
has a bunch of bells and whistles, none of which I really understand 
why they
would or wouldn't be good features. It does take 8 hours or so to 
make a liter,
and that is using a fw ounces of the last batch to seed the 
distilled water. Is

this a good generator? Any comments about why so long? Is it making the
good (meaning both effective and safe) stuff? Thanks for any input. 
Sara


http://www.wishgranted.com/Colloidal_Silver_Maker_777_AC.html


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Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-22 Thread Dave Darrin
Aldi
On the front panel of the 777 there is a switch that is labeled either
standard or fast, the setting you need to use is the standard  setting, the
red and green lights alternate every minute and the red comes on bright when
it shuts off.
On the fast setting it is running manually and will brew until you shut it
off hence the colors you got.
I've never been able to get anything but clear up to 20 ppm (setting #
7)with mine set on standard.
Dave




On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 10:05 AM, Golden Aldi goldena...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Maryann,

 I bought one of these generatory last June.  Since I'm llving over here in
 Germany, I had to get the Universal one cause of the european voltage which
 is about $40 bucks more. It was a disappointment to see that the extra $40
 bucks was for something I could get at Radio Shack back in the States for a
 few bucks.
 Then I can't tell you if the red light that is on there ever went on. Its
 supposed to turn off and let you kow it was done. With mine, I have to
 keepp watching it til the green light goes off, cause it will keep on
 brewing.

 I can't say that it only takes 3 hours to make a 10ppm mix, I've had a good
 6 plus hours, but maybe we could blame that on sea level, atmospheric
 pressure, and electromagnetic fields.

 I attempted a 25 ppm mix, but that one turned to a violet tint for some
 reason. I watered the plants with that one.  The second batch is still
 practically as clear as water, but that might be cause I watched it more
 closely, and turned if off after about 14 hours.

 Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy to have this thing, cause I figure if it
 should ever fail on me totally, at least I'll have the parts and set up that
 maybe I can fix it for real, and make it whole, but as is, I'm pretty
 disappointed.

 I also made a lid with slits for the silver electrodes for my brewing jar,
 its a real pain to try to get the strips to hang somewhat aligned to each
 other with the right distance between them. Now its so much easier, and
 there's even a bit more extra silver dispensed into the water.

 I'm just passing this along as my own personal review of this particular
 generator. I am in the market for possibly a second generator, but the one I
 want would be too costly to send over here, so I'll just sit tight, and wait
 for something to come along.

 Aldi



 On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 4:01 AM, MaryAnn Helland 
 marmar...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Hi Sara.  It's a great generator.  I've had mine for almost ten years.
 During that time, it has made no less than three batches a week, and at
 times I've made as many as fourteen batches a week (2 per day).  It is a
 quality unit, worry-free.  You'll enjoy the bells and whistles, once you
 know what they are and how to put them to use.  You may find that it doesn't
 take as long to make a batch, as they say.  I never seed my batches, but I'm
 looking for a low-ppm (5-10) and it can take as few as three hours to make a
 quart.  And yes -- it makes the good stuff!!  :-)
 MA





CSColloid Master??

2010-02-21 Thread Sara Mandal-Joy

The Colloid Master
Model 777™ AC


A friend has offered to purchase this for me.   I have a homemade kit, using
3 9 volt batteries.  I have no way to measure the levels, other than I 
have a
red light thingie that will show the tyndall effect.  I cook till I 
have a light
tyndall - usually about an hour for a quart of cs.   It is effective, 
has worked,
so I haven't tried to do anything fancier.   The above is on sale for 
139.  It
has a bunch of bells and whistles, none of which I really understand why 
they
would or wouldn't be good features.   It does take 8 hours or so to make 
a liter,
and that is using a fw ounces of the last batch to seed the distilled 
water.  Is

this a good generator?   Any comments about why so long?  Is it making the
good (meaning both effective and safe) stuff?   Thanks for any 
input.   Sara


 http://www.wishgranted.com/Colloidal_Silver_Maker_777_AC.html


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 Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

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Re: CSColloid Master??

2010-02-21 Thread MaryAnn Helland
Hi Sara.  It's a great generator.  I've had mine for almost ten years.  During 
that time, it has made no less than three batches a week, and at times I've 
made as many as fourteen batches a week (2 per day).  It is a quality unit, 
worry-free.  You'll enjoy the bells and whistles, once you know what they are 
and how to put them to use.  You may find that it doesn't take as long to make 
a batch, as they say.  I never seed my batches, but I'm looking for a low-ppm 
(5-10) and it can take as few as three hours to make a quart.  And yes -- it 
makes the good stuff!!  :-)
MA





From: Sara Mandal-Joy smjl...@wavewls.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Sun, February 21, 2010 6:11:58 PM
Subject: CSColloid Master??

 The Colloid Master
 Model 777™ AC

A friend has offered to purchase this for me.  I have a homemade kit, using
3 9 volt batteries.  I have no way to measure the levels, other than I have a
red light thingie that will show the tyndall effect.  I cook till I have a 
light
tyndall - usually about an hour for a quart of cs.  It is effective, has worked,
so I haven't tried to do anything fancier.  The above is on sale for 139.  It
has a bunch of bells and whistles, none of which I really understand why they
would or wouldn't be good features.  It does take 8 hours or so to make a liter,
and that is using a fw ounces of the last batch to seed the distilled water.  
Is
this a good generator?  Any comments about why so long?  Is it making the
good (meaning both effective and safe) stuff?  Thanks for any input.  Sara

http://www.wishgranted.com/Colloidal_Silver_Maker_777_AC.html


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Re: CScolloid master 777 instructions tips...

2006-01-06 Thread Marmar845
In a message dated 1/5/2006 9:03:58 PM Central Standard Time, 
dcicc...@gmail.com writes:
i'm
checking in with anyone who would be so kind as to (pretty please :-)
) give me a quick training session... what settings to use, etc
Hi.  I set my switch to *standard* (not fast), and my dial to around number 
5.  Then I attach my alligator clips to the silver bars, plug it in and press 
the start button.  The little green light should come on, indicating that the 
unit is operating.  You will hear periodic clicking sounds as the unit switches 
polarity.  When the green light goes out, your colloid is done.  Unplug 
before removing alligator clips to avoid current transmission if your clips 
should 
happen to touch each other.  Remove silver bars and wipe them clean with a 
paper towel.  That's it.  I hope you enjoy your unit -- I have certainly 
enjoyed 
mine.  MA   


Re: CScolloid master 777 instructions tips...

2006-01-06 Thread Tel Tofflemire


marmar...@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/5/2006 9:03:58 PM Central Standard Time, 
dcicc...@gmail.com writes:
  i'm
checking in with anyone who would be so kind as to (pretty please :-)
) give me a quick training session... what settings to use, etc
  Hi.  I set my switch to *standard* (not fast), and my dial to around number 
5.  Then I attach my alligator clips to the silver bars, plug it in and press 
the start button.  The little green light should come on, indicating that the 
unit is operating.  You will hear periodic clicking sounds as the unit switches 
polarity.  When the green light goes out, your colloid is done.  Unplug before 
removing alligator clips to avoid current transmission if your clips should 
happen to touch each other.  Remove silver bars and wipe them clean with a 
paper towel.  That's it.  I hope you enjoy your unit -- I have certainly 
enjoyed mine.  MA   
That is good advide MA ,  
   I have used a Colloidal Master 777 , for many years and I do use a fish tank 
bubblier for gentel air mixing., but I make a gallon at a time.
  One thing to watch for is to clean witha paper towel all inside surface of 
you glass container.
  current can get to going around the jars inside rather than jumping from Neg 
to Pos. and cause no colloidal action in the jar, that was my first mystery, 
but with help from this list I was able to fix it. (Keep everything very clean, 
even if it loks clean)



Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.

-
 Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less

Re: CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a machine I ca...

2006-01-06 Thread Tel Tofflemire
Colloidal Master 777,
   is the one I have used for years, and if your only interested in a pint of 
CS at a time,  like the Slipperey Puppy, then of course you need not worry 
about a mixing device, I sent my slippery Puppy back to the pound for a refund. 
 The fish tank bubblier used is the cheapest and smallest you can buy, aprox. 
$3.00 to $4.00. I use inline air filter and inline valuve to clean the air and 
the valuve to regulate the air flow. These are bought at the pet store in 
seperate packages, or as 5 or 6 in a package for about 25 cents each,   The 
filters last according to how clean your air is, and the valuves last forever, 
I am still on my first one.
  The cost   time per gallon of a Colloidal Master 777 , is a tiny percent of 
that of most all other units except Terry Chamberlin has a 10 gallon per 
hourunit that I think would make CS even cheaper.

marmar...@aol.com wrote:
  In a message dated 1/4/06 2:10:13 PM Central Standard Time, 
sol...@sweetwaterhsa.com writes:


  Many Colloid Master owners seem happy with their generators, but I myself 
don't think I would have liked it. just my two cents, which I wanted to add, as 
many people believe the Silverpuppy is more expensive, and I don't think it is, 
once you add in the additional costs to the Colloid Master.

I have a Colloid Master and haven't found it necessary to add any stirring 
device.  Makes fine CS with a minimum of time, space or bother.  FWIW.   MA   



Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.

-
 Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less

Re: CScolloid master 777 instructions tips...

2006-01-06 Thread Marmar845
In a message dated 1/6/06 10:13:45 AM Central Standard Time, 
telt...@yahoo.com writes:


 One thing to watch for is to clean witha paper towel all inside surface of 
 you glass container.
 current can get to going around the jars inside rather than jumping from Neg 
 to Pos. and cause no colloidal action in the jar
 

No kidding Tel?  I never knew that.  Thanks very much for sharing.  I do have 
a question pertaining to that though:  I always use the same quart jars for 
processing.  Most of them have a *staining* of plated silver somewhere on the 
inside of them.  This cannot be removed.  Are you saying, then, that this 
plating will interfere with the processing of the CS?  If so, then I need to 
throw 
them away and start with new jars. MA


Re: CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a machine I ca...

2006-01-06 Thread sol
I routinely make half gallon batches with my Silverpuppy, and have made 
gallons. The pup is NOT limited to pints by any means.

sol


Tel Tofflemire wrote:


Colloidal Master 777,
 is the one I have used for years, and if your only interested in a 
pint of CS at a time,  like the Slipperey Puppy, then of course you 
need not worry about a mixing device, I sent my slippery Puppy back to 
the pound for a refund.  The fish tank bubblier used is the cheapest 
and smallest you can buy, aprox. $3.00 to $4.00. I use inline air 
filter and inline valuve to clean the air and the valuve to regulate 
the air flow. These are bought at the pet store in seperate packages, 
or as 5 or 6 in a package for about 25 cents each,   The filters last 
according to how clean your air is, and the valuves last forever, I am 
still on my first one.




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Re: CScolloid master 777 instructions tips...

2006-01-06 Thread sol
You can remove the plating in the jars with straight 3% hydrogen 
peroxide. No need to fill the jar, just add around 1/4 to 1/2 cup and 
turn the jar so the peroxide has some time to sit on all the inner 
surface. Rinse several times in hottest tap water, then rinse a couple 
times with distilled water.

sol

marmar...@aol.com wrote:

No kidding Tel?  I never knew that.  Thanks very much for sharing.  I 
do have a question pertaining to that though:  I always use the same 
quart jars for processing.  Most of them have a *staining* of plated 
silver somewhere on the inside of them.  This cannot be removed.  Are 
you saying, then, that this plating will interfere with the processing 
of the CS?  If so, then I need to throw them away and start with new 
jars. MA




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Re: CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a machine I can trust?

2006-01-05 Thread aKa Jhon
I have these two,plus Trem's earlier model w/o the stirrer,plus his new 
'stirrer' model,,(http://www.silvergen.com/)
I run several at a time,combining the SilverPuppy's magnet stir with a non 
stir model..

Gotto' go,,all this stirring stuff makes me dizzy..
BTW thanks all for the Green Food info,,most helpful,,as usual from this 
list


- Original Message - 
Subject: CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a 
machine I can trust?



Not to quibble overmuch but several people have found they did need to 



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Re: CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a machine I ca...

2006-01-05 Thread Marmar845
In a message dated 1/4/06 2:10:13 PM Central Standard Time, 
sol...@sweetwaterhsa.com writes:


 Many Colloid Master owners seem happy with their generators, but I myself 
 don't think I would have liked it. just my two cents, which I wanted to add, 
 as many people believe the Silverpuppy is more expensive, and I don't think 
 it 
 is, once you add in the additional costs to the Colloid Master.

I have a Colloid Master and haven't found it necessary to add any stirring 
device.  Makes fine CS with a minimum of time, space or bother.  FWIW.   MA


CScolloid master 777 instructions tips...

2006-01-05 Thread Dino Ciccarelli
hello all...
  silly me, i seem to have misplaced my instructions and so i'm
checking in with anyone who would be so kind as to (pretty please :-)
) give me a quick training session... what settings to use, etc
i'm excited about this, it's going to be my very first batch... any
help would be greatly appreciated...
thanks!
dc


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CSColloid master, vs Silverpuppy, was Re: CSWhere to bye a machine I can trust?

2006-01-04 Thread sol
Not to quibble overmuch but several people have found they did need to 
add stirring of some kind to the colloid master. It is also not as 
self-contained as the Silverpuppy and the Silvergen. And it does require 
use of alligator clips attached to wires that have to be clipped onto 
the flat silver electrodes.
None of the above is a particularly big deal, but the Colloid Master is 
also about the same price as the Silverpuppy magnetic stir unit when 
shipping costs is added in (it may actually end up more expensive by a 
bit). It will certainly be more expensive once some kind of stirring is 
added as many have found necessary.
To me the advantages of  the more compact, pup, with stirring built in, 
and no wires trailing around, no alligator clips, makes it far the 
better, more convenient to use and more economical option. Many Colloid 
Master owners seem happy with their generators, but I myself don't think 
I would have liked it.

just my two cents,
which I wanted to add, as many people believe the Silverpuppy is more 
expensive, and I don't think it is, once you add in the additional costs 
to the Colloid Master.

sol

Bill Keen wrote:


Mike D.  Laura,
 
Here are two very good machines according to the members of this list: 
 
Colloid Master

http://www.wishgranted.com/ec_store/item52.htm

Silver Puppy
http://www.silvermedicine.org/silverpuppy-generators.html
 
The Colloid Master does not need a stirrer as the method used 
generates a stirring action in the CS naturally.
 




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CSColloid Master questions, was Re: CSRe: silver-digest Digest V2005 #234

2005-04-07 Thread sol
We have had success in making one Gallon batches using a 1 1/2 inch 
distance between electrodes. This is a quote from the Wishgranted 
website re the Colloid Master 777.


What kind of  brew jar do you use to make a gallon in? How do you space 
the electrodes? It looks to me from the photos at the website that if 
you used a 1 gallon glass jar, and put the electrodes 1 1/2 apart they 
would be edge on to each other?
Do you use the standard 6 by 1/2 inch electrodes or the 8 by 1/2 inch 
ones, and how does that affect the dial setting? How long does it take 
to make a gallon?  Do you use any kind of cover on the brew jar during 
processing? I wish they would put a photo of this generator in action on 
the website--if there is one, I didn't find it.


Regarding stirring, the Colloid Master (R) employs a bi-directional 
current pattern to the electrodes. This causes the particles to be moved 
into the solution without the use of a stirrer.  Another quote from 
their website. So apparently (though I didn't read it that way) 
bi-directional current pattern means Polarity Reversal, my mistake 
that I didn't realize that.


I'm not sure, even with my mis-read of the info at the site re polarity 
reversal, that I would change my opinion.  I would like to see a photo 
of this unit in action, and I'd also like to see a photo or have a 
description of your gallon set up.


TIA,
sol

Dave wrote:

  For around a hundred bucks you get a generator that easily makes 
gallon batches without any reason to stir as it changes polarity every 
55 seconds and shuts off when done. I don't know where Sol gets such 
convoluted information but it would be better if correct.
  The colloid master is current controlled and doesn't cost an arm and 
a leg to buy, unlike the SG-6.
  My suggestion is go there and decide for your self, not just blindly 
buy what is sold by list members.

Dave





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Re: CSColloid Master questions, was Re: CSRe: silver-digest Digest V2005 #234

2005-04-07 Thread Dave
  I use a gallon sun tea jar with a spigot on the side so I can decant 
without worry or inconvenience of filtering. I cut two slots in the lid 
to insert the 1/2 inch wide silver strips through. I have been using the 
 6 inch strips but have ordered the 8 In. ones for later. I make a 
small curl in the end of the strips to attach the alligator clips to and 
also to keep them from falling into the brew. I set the dial at 8. They 
told me that at that setting I should get 22 ppm. As far as time is 
concerned
It depends on the purity of the distilled water. I usually set it up at 
bed time and have it done anywhere between arising in the morning and 
noon. Which isn't too long considering the amount.
  Lately I have attached two Silver Eagles to the strips to have more 
silver to the water and that hurries things up a little.

  I bought one for my daughter and she didn't get around to using it
for over a year. As luck would have It there was something wrong with 
it. I contacted them and they said there would be no charge to fix or 
replace the unit.They replaced it and paid the shipping.

 Dave



sol wrote:
We have had success in making one Gallon batches using a 1 1/2 inch 
distance between electrodes. This is a quote from the Wishgranted 
website re the Colloid Master 777.


What kind of  brew jar do you use to make a gallon in? How do you space 
the electrodes? It looks to me from the photos at the website that if 
you used a 1 gallon glass jar, and put the electrodes 1 1/2 apart they 
would be edge on to each other?
Do you use the standard 6 by 1/2 inch electrodes or the 8 by 1/2 inch 
ones, and how does that affect the dial setting? How long does it take 
to make a gallon?  Do you use any kind of cover on the brew jar during 
processing? I wish they would put a photo of this generator in action on 
the website--if there is one, I didn't find it.


Regarding stirring, the Colloid Master (R) employs a bi-directional 


current pattern to the electrodes. This causes the particles to be moved 
into the solution without the use of a stirrer.  Another quote from 
their website. So apparently (though I didn't read it that way) 
bi-directional current pattern means Polarity Reversal, my mistake 
that I didn't realize that.


I'm not sure, even with my mis-read of the info at the site re polarity 
reversal, that I would change my opinion.  I would like to see a photo 
of this unit in action, and I'd also like to see a photo or have a 
description of your gallon set up.


TIA,
sol

Dave wrote:

  For around a hundred bucks you get a generator that easily makes 
gallon batches without any reason to stir as it changes polarity every 
55 seconds and shuts off when done. I don't know where Sol gets such 
convoluted information but it would be better if correct.
  The colloid master is current controlled and doesn't cost an arm and 
a leg to buy, unlike the SG-6.
  My suggestion is go there and decide for your self, not just blindly 
buy what is sold by list members.

Dave








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CSColloid Master AC

2003-04-10 Thread Faye Killian
Does anyone on this list have the Colloid Master AC and if so how do you like 
it and how well does it work for you? I just bought one and need to learn how 
to use it from someone who already uses one like it. I have only made two 
quarts and both of them turned out a pale yellow. Is this ok to use like that?
Appreciate any help,
Faye


Re: CSColloid Master AC

2003-04-10 Thread Tel Tofflemire
Faye,
I have had mine for quite a few yrs in fact I am a dealer for all of
their products. 1. I make a Gallon at a time, use a fish tank bubblier
with air filter and end diffuser stone.  I Set it for 12 to 15 PPM, as
per my testing equipment.  (mostly guess work but close)  color can
range from clear to violet, to light yellow, or dark for over kill..(too
long on the Colloidal Master) reason it did not shut off is neck of your
container was silver plated...need to keep it clean with paper towel.
Your yellow CS is fin to use, make sure your Qt jars are
clean...(effects the color) New does not mean clean.
You can email me off line at telt...@cableone.net
Tel Tofflemire
Dewey , AZ




Faye Killian wrote:

 Does anyone on this list have the Colloid Master AC and if so how do
 you like it and how well does it work for you? I just bought one and
 need to learn how to use it from someone who already uses one like it.
 I have only made two quarts and both of them turned out a pale yellow.
 Is this ok to use like that?Appreciate any help,Faye


CSColloid Master AC

2003-04-10 Thread Faye Killian
Hello Tel Tofflemire,
Your email address didn't come through so could you please email me off line at 
fkill...@bayou.com  Would like to discuss the Master AC further with you. 
Thanks,
Faye
Re: CSColloid Master AC

  a.. From: Tel Tofflemire (view other messages by this author) 
  b.. Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:13:08 




Faye,

I have had mine for quite a few yrs in fact
I am a dealer for all of their products. 1. I make a Gallon at a time,
use a fish tank bubblier with air filter and end diffuser stone. 
I Set it for 12 to 15 PPM, as per my testing equipment.  (mostly guess
work but close)  color can range from clear to violet, to light yellow,
or dark for over kill..(too long on the Colloidal Master) reason it did
not shut off is neck of your container was silver plated...need to keep
it clean with paper towel.

Your yellow CS is fin to use, make sure your
Qt jars are clean...(effects the color) New does not mean clean.

You can email me off line at 

Tel Tofflemire

Dewey , AZ




CSColloid Master 777 or Silvergen SG6???

2002-05-09 Thread LINDAELLIS
Okay, I've been lurking here for awhile, and I'm now ALMOST ready to make the 
leap to buying my first CS generator.  While I'll eventually buy a combo unit 
BEer/CS maker from Alvin or SOTA, I've decided to go ahead right now with a 
dedicated CS generator.  I think I've narrowed it down to these two units, 
but I'm having a tough time deciding.  I'd love to hear opinions from some 
veterans out there.

I like the Colloid Master 777s price ($50 less) and all the info on the site 
leads me to beleive these guys know their stuff.  Also like that I can get a 
combo with a distiller and all the adapters (to use in our RV or dry 
camping), and a nice carrying case.  The front panel of the unit seems more 
user-friendly to me, also.  

The SG6 is more expensive, but he has shown the guts, and it sure looks 
well-made.  The big feature I like here is that it appears to screw right 
onto the receptacle jar.  

Price is not going to be the deciding factor here.  I'm really interested in 
others' experience with ease of use, how long it takes to make a batch (say, 
32 oz.), and quality.  

Opinions, please

Linda Ellis


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Re: CSColloid Master 777 or Silvergen SG6???

2002-05-09 Thread Dean T. Miller
On Thu, 9 May 2002 18:00:44 EDT, lindael...@aol.com wrote:

Price is not going to be the deciding factor here.  I'm really interested in 
others' experience with ease of use, how long it takes to make a batch (say, 
32 oz.), and quality.  

I make a gallon at a time with the SG6.  Takes two shots -- run it
until done once (about 12-15 hours), then let is stir for a while.
Then turn it off for 1 minute, then back on again until it's done
(about 3-4 hours).  It'll be close to whatever you set the control to.

32 ounces should take 4-5 hours (if I recall correctly -- it's been
more than a year since I made that size batch).

-- Dean -- from (almost) Des Moines -- KB0ZDF


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